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THE  UNITED  STATES 


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THE 

UNITED  STATES 

WITH  AN 

EXCURSION  INTO  MEXICO 

A 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 

' * BY 

EARL  BAEDEKER 

WITH  25  MAPS  AND  35  PLANS 

THIKD  REVISED  EDITION 

LEIPZIG : KARL  BAEDEKER,  PUBLISHER 

LONDON:  DULAU  AND  CO.,  37  SOHO  SQUARE,  W. 

NEW  YORK : CHARLES  SCRIBNER’S  SONS,  153-157  FIFTH  AVENUE 


1904 


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'Dn'3 


REPACK. 


r Th 


r The  Handbook  to  the  United  States,  undertaken  in  re- 

sponse to  repeated  requests  from  British  and  American 
tourists,  is  intended  to  help  the  traveller  in  planning  his  tour 
and  disposing  of  his  time  to  the  best  advantage  and  thus  to 
enable  him  the  more  thoroughly  to  enjoy  and  appreciate  the 
objects  of  interest  he  meets  with.  The  writer  is  Mr,  J.  F. 
Muirhead,  M.  A.,  who  has  had  charge  of  the  English  editions 
of  Baedeker’s  Handbooks  for  quarter  of  a century,  and  has 
personally  visited  the  greater  part  of  the  districts  described. 

The  vast  extent  and  rapidly  changitig  conditions  of  the 
United  States  make  the  production  of  a satisfactory  guide- 
book a peculiarly  difficult  task ; but  for  its  improvement  the 
Editor  confidently  and  gratefully  looks  forward  to  a contin- 
uance of  those  valuable  corrections  and  suggestions  with 
which  travellers  have  long  been  in  the  habit  of  favouring  him. 
In  view  of  the  growing  favour  bestowed  on  the  Handbook 
by  native-born  travellers,  an  attempt  has  been  made  in  this 
edition  to  expand  those  sections  which  appeal  rather  to  the 
American  than  to  the  foreign  tourist,  and  to  lay  greater  stress 
upon  points  interesting  from  their  association  with  American 
history  or  literature. 

^ ^ In  the  preparation  of  the  Handbook  the  Editor  has  re- 

, ceived  material  aid  from  I)r.  JBenJamin  Ellis  Martin  of  New 
York,  who  visited  the  Southern  States  and  California  in 
interests  of  the  present  edition,  and  from  so  many  other 
^ friends  in  all  parts  of  the  United  States,  as  to  preclude  an 
enumeration  of  their  names.  In  particular  he  wishes  to 
^press  his  obligations  to  the  superior  officials  of  the  leading 
Railway  Companies,  who  have  been,  almost  without  exception, 
uniformly  courteous  and  helpful;  to  many  officials  of  the 
Federal  and  State  Governments;  to  the  keepers  of  the  most 
^ important  libraries,  museums,  and  galleries  of  art;  to  the 
^ officials  of  the  Appalachian  Mountain  Club;  and  to  the  pro- 
^ lessors  of  numerous  universities  and  colleges. 

^ It  is  hoped  that  the  various  monographs  of  the  Intro- 
auction,  though  sometimes  going  beyond  the  recognized 
lunctions  of  a guidebook,  will  be  found  of  material  value  to 

ithe  tourist.^  Each  has  been  written  by  an  undoubted  authority 
on  me  subject  of  which  it  ^Gats^^an^  their  general  aim  is  to 
enable  the  traveller  to  give  an  intelligent 

appreciation  to  the  p^tHcaU  social,  industrial,  apd  physical 


Vi  PREFACE. 

aspects  of  a great  country  that  is  much  less  accurately  known 
by  the  average  European  than  its  importance  warrants. 

On  the  Maps  and  Plans  the  Editor  has  bestowed  especial 
care;  and  it  is  believed  that  in  this  respect  the  Handbook  is 
more  completely  equipped  than  any  other  publication  of  the 
kind  relating  to  the  United  States.  Such  merit  as  they  possess 
is  largely  due  to  the  kind  and  efficient  cooperation  of  Mr. 
Henry  Gannett,  Chief  Topographer  of  the  United  States  Geo- 
logical Survey.  Six  new  maps  and  eight  new  plans  have 
\ \bBen^  added  to  the  present  edition. 

The  Populations  are  those  of  the  national  census  of  1900. 

HoWls.  The  Editor  has  endeavoured  to  enumerate  not 
only  the  first-class  hotels,  but  also  the  more  deserving  of  the 
cheaper  houses.  The  comfort  ofan  American  hotel  is,  however, 
much  more  likely  to  be  in  the  direct  ratio  of  its  charges  than 
is  the  case  in  Europe  (comp,  p.xxvi).  Although  changes  fre- 
quently take  place,  and  prices  generally  have  an  upward  tend- 
ency, the  average  charges  stated  in  the  Handbook  will  enable 
the  traveller  to  form  a fair  estimate  of  his  expenditure.  The 
value  of  the  asterisks,  which  are  used  as  marks  of  commenda- 
tion, is  relative  only,  signifying  that  the  houses  are  good  of 
their  kind. 

To  hotel-proprietors,  tradesmen,  and  others  the  Editor 
begs  to  intimate  that  a character  for  fair  dealing  and  courtesy 
towards  travellers  is  the  sole  passport  to  his  commendation, 
and  that  advertisements  of  every  kind  are  strictly  excluded 
from  his  Handbooks.  Hotel-keepers  are  also  warned  against 
persons  representing  themselves  as  agents  for  Baedeker  s 
Handbooks. 


Abbreviations. 

R.  = Room;  B.  = Breakfast;  D.  = Dinner;  L.  = Luncheon; 
Rfmts.  = Refreshments.  — N.  = North,  Northern,  etc. ; S.  = 
South,  etc.;  E.  ==  East,  etc.;  W.  = West,  etc.  — M.  = English 
(or  American) Mile;  ft.  = Engl,  foot;  min.  = minute;  hr.  =hour.  — 
c.,  ca.  ==  circa,  about.  — Ho.  = House;  Hot.  = Hotel;  Ave.  = 
Avenue;  St.  = Street;  R.R.  = railroad;  Ry.  = Railway;  Mt.  = 
Mountain.  — U.  S.  = United  States. 

The  letter  d with  a date,  after  the  name  of  a person,  indicates 
the  year  of  his  death.  — The  number  of  feet  given  after  the  name 
of  a place  shows  its  height  above  the  sea-level.  — The  number  of 
miles  placed  before  the  principal  places  on  railway-routes  indicates 
their  distance  from  the  starting-point  of  the  route. 


Asterisks  are  used  as  marks  of  commendation. 


CONTENTS, 


Page 

I.  Money.  Expenses.  Passports.  Custom  House.  Time  xvii 

II.  Voyage  from  Europe  to  the  United  States xix 

III.  Railways.  Steamers.  Coaches.  Tramways xix 

IV.  Plan  of  Tour /Kxiii 

V.  Hotels  and  Restaurants x,xvi 

VI.  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices xxil 

VII.  Glossary xxx 

VIII.  General  Hints xxxi 

IX.  A Short  History  of  American  Politics,  by  John  Bach 

McMaster xxxiii 

X.  Constitution  and  Government  of  the  United  States, 

by  James  Bryce xlviii 

XI.  Aborigines  and  Aboriginal  Remains,  by  0.  T.  Mason  Ixiv 

XII.  Physiography  of  North  America,  by  N.  8,  Shaler  . . Ixix 

XIII.  Climate  and  Climatic  Resorts  of  the  United  States, 

by  E.  C.  Wendt Ixxviii 

XIV.  The  Fine  Arts  in  America Ixxxiv 

a.  Painting  and  Sculpture,  by  William  A.  Coffin,  . Ixxxiv 

b.  Architecture,  by  Montgomery  Schuyler Ixxxix 

XV.  Sports  and  Games xcv 

XVI.  Educational,  Charitable,  Penal,  and  Industrial  In- 
stitutions   xcix 

XVII.  Bibliography cii 

Route 

1.  From  Europe  to  New  York 1 

a.  From  Liverpool  to  New  York 1 

b.  From  Southampton  to  New  York 4 

c.  From  Hamburg  to  Nev/  York 4 

d.  From  Bremen  to  New  York 5 

e.  From  Havre  to  New  York 5 

f.  From  Antwerp  to  Nevv  York 5 

g.  From  Rotterdam  to  New  York . . 6 

h.  From  London  to  New  York 6 

i.  From  Glasgow  to  New  York 6 

k.  From  Copenhagen,  Christiania,  and  Christiansand  to  New  York  6 

l.  From  Genoa  and  Naples  to  New  York 7 

2.  New  York 7 

Environs  of  New  York  66.  — From  New  York  to  Yonkers, 
to  Putnam  Junction  (Brewster),  and  to  Chatham  68. 

3.  Brooklyn  and  Long  Island 69 

Coney  Island  73.  — Rockaway  Beach.  Long  Beach  73, 74.  — From 
Brooklyn  to  Greenport  74.  — From  Brooklyn  to  Montauk  75. 

4.  From  New  York  to  Boston 76 

a.  Via  New  Haven,  Hartford,  and  Springfield 76 

From  New  Haven  to  Middletown  78.  — From  Hartford  to 
Fishkill  Landing  80. 


viii 


CONTENTS. 


Route  Page 

b.  Via  Providence  and  the  Shore  Line 83 

From  New  London  to  Brattleboro  83.  — Watcli  Hill.  Nar- 
ragansett  Pier  84. 

c.  Via  Hartford  and  Willimantic 86 

d.  By  Steamboat 87 

From  New  London  to  Boston  88.  — Newport  89.  — From 
Fall  River  to  Boston  94. 

5:  Boston  94 

Cambridge  412.—  Charlestown  115. — Environs  of  Boston  115,116. 
i 6.  Ei:om  Boston  to  Plymouth 117 

a.  Via  Whitnian  117.  — b.  Via  South  Shore  117. 

7.  Erom  Boston  to  Martha’s  Vineyard  and  Nantucket . . . . 118 

8.  From  Boston  to  Provincetown.  Cape  Cod 119 

9.  From  Boston  to  Portland 121 


a.  By  the  Eastern  Division  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  121 
Nahant.  Marblehead  121.  — From  Beverly  to  Gloucester  and 
Rockport  (‘North  Shore’)  123.  — Salisbury  Beach  and  Plum 
Island.  Isles  of  Shoals  125.  — York  Beach  126. 

b.  By  the  Western  Division  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  126 
Casco  Bay  and  Environs  of  Portland  129. 


10.  From  Portland  to  Mount  Desert.  Moosehead  Lake.  . . . 129 

a.  Via  Bangor 129 

From  Bangor  to  St.  John  and  to  Greenville.  Moosehead  Lake 
131.  — From  Bangor  to  Fort  Kent  and  Van  Buren  132.  — 

From  Washington  Junction  to  Eastport  or  Calais  132. 

b.  Via  Rockland 133 

Popham  Beach.  Boothbay.  Squirrel  Island.  Camden  133. 

11.  Mount  Desert 134 

12.  From  Portland  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes 139 

a.  Via  Lewiston  and  Farmington 139 

b.  Via  Rumford  Falls 140 

13.  From  Boston  to  Eastport  and  St.  John  by  Sea  (Campobello; 

Grand  Man  an) 141 

14.  From  Portland  to  Montreal  and  Quebec 143 

a.  Via  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway 143 

From  Berlin  to  Whitefield  143. 

b.  Via  the  Maine  Central  Railroad 144 

Sebago  Lake.  Naples.  Pleasant  Mt.  144.  — From  Quebec 
Junction  to  Quebec  145. 

15.  From  Boston  to  Montreal 146 

a.  Via  Rutland  and  Burlington 146 

From  Concord  to  Lexington  147.  — Dublin  148.  — From 
Burlington  to  Essex  Junction.  From  Alburgh  to  Ogdensburg  150. 

b.  Via  Lowell  and  Concord 151 

From  Nashua  to  Keene.  From  Manchester  to  Henniker. 

From  Concord  to  Claremont  Junction.  Lake  Sunapee  152.  — 
Woodstock.  Stowe  and  Mt.  Mansfield  153. 

c.  Via  Concord,  Plymouth,  Wells  River,  and  Newport  . . 154 
Lake  Winnipesaukee  155.  — From  Plymouth  to  Lincoln. 

From  Wells  River  to  Groveton  Junction  and  to  Montpelier 

156.  — Lake  Memphremagog  157. 

d.  Via  Portsmouth  and  North  Conway 157 


CONTENTS. 


ix 


Route  Page 

16.  The  White  Mountains 

a.  North  Conway  160.  — b.  Jackson  and  the  Peabody  Glen  161  — 
c.  Gorham  and  Randolph  162.  — d.  Crawford  House  and  the 
Notch  163.  — e.  Bretton  Woods,  Fabyan  House,  Twin  Mt 
House,  and  Zealand  165.  — f.  Bethlehem  and  Maplewood 
166.  — g.  The  Franconia  Mts.  Profile  House  166.  — h.  Jef- 
ferson 168.  — i.  Mt.  Washington  169. 

17.  From  Boston  to  Albany y1[^ 

a.  By  Boston  & Albany  Railroad 171 

From  Pittsfield  to  North  Adams  172. 

b.  Via  the  Hoosac  Tunnel 172 

18.  From  New  York  to  Pittsfield  fBerkshire  Hills')  . 173 

Litchfield  173.  ^ . 

19.  The  Berkshire  Hills  I74 

20.  From  New  York  to  Montreal Igj 

a.  Via  Connecticut  Valley Igl 

Mt.  Holyoke.  Hadley  182. 

b.  Via  Albany  (or  Troy),  Saratoga,  and  Lake  Champlain  . 183 
From  Fort  Edward  to  Caldwell  184.  — From  Plattsburg  to 
Ausable  Forks  185. 

c.  Via  Troy,  Rutland,  and  Burlington 185 

d.  Via  Utica  and  the  Adirondacks 186 

21.  From  New  York  to  Albany 186 

a.  By  Steamer 180 

b.  Via  Railway  on  the  East  Bank 191 

c.  Via  Railway  on  the  West  Bank 193 

From  Kingston  to  Campbell  Hall.  Lakes  Mohonk  and  Minne- 
waska  195,  196. 

22.  Albany 

23.  From  Albany  to  Binghamton 201 

Sharon  Springs.  Cooperstown  and  Otsego  Lake  201. 

24.  The  Catskill  Mountains 202 

a.  From  Catskill  to  the  Catskill  Mountain  House  and  the  Hotel 
Kaaterskill  203.  — b.  From  Kingston  (Rondout)  to  the  Hotel 
Kaaterskill  206.  — c.  From  Rondout  (Kingston)  to  Oneonta  208. 

25.  The  Adirondack  Mountains 209 

^ Plattsburg  to  St.  Regis,  Tupper,  Saranac,  and  Placid 

Lakes  211  — b.  From  Port  Kent  to  Ausable  Chasm  and  Lake 
Placid  213.  — c.  From  Westport  to  Elizabethtown,  Keene 
Valiey.  and  Lake  Placid  214.  — d.  From  Utica  to  Malone  via 
the  Tupper  and  Saranac  Lakes  221.  — e.  From  Saratoga  to 
North  Creek.  Schroon  Lake  224. 

26.  Saratoga 295 

Environs  of  Saratoga.  Mt.  McGregor  227.* 

27.  Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain 227 

28.  From  New  York  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls 232 

a.  Via  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River  Railroad  . . 232 

Johnstown.  The  Six  Nations  232.  - From  Utica  to  Ogdens- 
o 233.  - From  Utica  to  Binghamton.  Rich- 

field  Springs.  Watertown.  Oneida  Lake  234.  — Cayuga  Lake. 

Ithaca  236.  — Seneca  Lake.  Watkins  Glen.  Havana  Glen 
— From  Canandaigua  to  Watkins.  Lake  Keuka  238. 
h.  Via  West  Shore  Railway  242 


X 


CONTENTS. 


Route  Page 

c.  Via  Delaware,  Lackawanna,  & Western  Railroad  . . . 243 

d.  Via  Erie  Railroad ...  245 

Tuxedo  Lake.  Greenwood  Lake  245.  — Pike  County  246. 

e.  Via  Lehigh  Valley  Railroad 247 

29.  Niagara  Falls 248 

30.  The  St.  Lawrence  River  and  the  Thousand  Islands.  . . . 254 

31.  From  New  York  to  Philadelphia 257 

a.  Via  Pennsylvania  Railroad 257 

Princeton  University  25T. 

h.  Via  Royal  Blue  Line 258 

32.  Philadelphia 259 

Camden  City.  Germantown  and  Chestnut  Hill.  From  Phila- 
delphia to  West  Chester  2T5. 

33.  Summer  and  Winter  Resorts  of  New  Jersey 276 

a.  From  New  York  to  Long  Branch  and  Point  Pleusant  by  Rail 
276.  — b.  From  New  York  to  Long  Branch  via  Atlantic  High- 
lands and  Sandy  Hook  277.  — c.  From  Philadelphia  to  Long 
Branch  277.  — d.  Barnegat  Bay  278.  — e.  From  New  York  to 
Lakewood  and  Atlantic  City  279.  — f.  From  Phiiadelpbia  to 
Atlantic  City  279.  — g.  From  Philadelphia  to  Cape  May  281. 

34.  From  Philadelphia  to  Buffalo 281 

a.  Via  Bethlehem  and  Maueh  Chunk 281 

Valley  of  Wyoming  283.  — From  Wilkes-Barre  to  Nineveh  284. 

b.  Via  Williamsport  and  Emporium 284 

From  Williamsport  to  Satterfield  284. 

35.  From  Philadelphia  to  Reading  and  Williamsport 285 

EphratT.  From  Port  Clinton  to  Pottsville  286. 

36.  From  Philadelphia  to  Erie 286 

37.  From  Philadelphia  to  Harrisburg  and  Pittsburg 287 

From  Harrisburg  to  Gettysburg,  to  Winchester,  to  Reading, 
and  to  Williamsport  288. 

38.  Cettysburg 291 

39.  Pittsburg 295 

From  Pittsburg  to  Connellsville,  to  Buffalo,  to  Erie,  to 
Cleveland,  and  to  Wheeling  299,  300. 

40.  From  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore 300 

From  Wilmington  to  Cape  Charles  300. 

41.  Baltimore .301 

Chesapeake  Bay.  From  Baltimore  to  Cherry  Run,  to  Harris- 
burg, and  to  Annapolis  306,  307. 

42.  From  Baltimore  to  Washington 308 

a.  Via  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  & Washington  Railroad  . 308 

b.  Via  Baltimore  & Ohio  Railroad  (Royal  Blue  Line)  . . 308 

c.  By  Water  308 

43.  Washington  309 

Excursions  from  Washington:  Georgetown,  Arlington,  Mt. 
Vernon,  etc.  324-326. 

44.  From  Pittsburg  to  Chicago 326 

a.  Via  Crestline  and  Fort  Wayne 326 

b.  Via  Columbus  and  Logansport 326 

45.  From  Baltimore  to  Chicago 327 

Frederick  328.  — Wheeling  329, 


CONTENTS.  xi 

Route  Page 

46.  From  Buffalo  to  Chicago 330 

a.  Via  Lake  Shore  & Michigan  Southern  Railroad  ....  330 
h.  Via  New  York,  Chicago,  & St.  Louis  Railroad  ....  334 

c.  Via  Michigan  Central  Railroad 334 

From  Detroit  to  Lansing  and  Grand  Rapids,  to  Port  Huron, 

to  Mackinaw  City,  to  Cincinnati,  and  to  Columbus.  Mackinac 
Island  338. 

d.  Via  Grand  Trunk  Railway 339 

e.  By  Steamer 340 

47.  From  New  York  to  Chicago 342 

a.  Via  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburg 342 

b.  Via  Buffalo  and  Detroit 342 

c.  Via  Buffalo  and  Port  Huron 343 

d.  Via  Buffalo  and  Cleveland 343 

e.  Via  Oswego  and  Suspension  Bridge 343 

f.  Via  Salamanca  and  Marion  (Chautauqua) 344 

g.  Via  Baltimore  and  Washington 345 

48.  Chicago 346 

Pullman.  Excursions  from  Chicago  357. 

49.  From  Chicago  to  Milwaukee 358 

a.  Via  Chicago  & North-Western  Railway 358 

b.  Via  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  & St.  Paul  Railway 358 

Waukesha  361. 

50.  From  Chicago  to  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis 361 

a.  Via  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  & St.  Paul  Railway 361 

b.  Via  Chicago  & North-Western  Railway 362 

c.  Via  Illinois  Central  Railroad  (Albert  Lea  Route)  . . . 363 

d.  Via  Chicago,  Burlington,  & Quincy  Railroad 364 

e.  Via  Wisconsin  Central  Railway 364 

f.  Via  Chicago  Great  Western  Railway 364 

g.  Via  Chicago,  Rock  Island,  and  Pacific  Railway  ....  365 

51.  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis 365 

Minnehaha  Falls  369.  — Lake  Minnetonka.  From  Minne- 
apolis to  Sault-Ste-Marie  370. 

52.  From  St.  Paul  to  Duluth 370 

From  Duluth  to  Tower  and  Ely  ^ to  Mountain  Iron  and  Bib- 
bing. Messabi  and  Vermilion  Ranges  371. 

53.  From  Duluth  to  Sault-Ste-Marie 371 

a.  By  Railway  371.  — b.  By  Steamer  372. 

54.  From  St.  Paul  to  Winnipeg 374 

a.  Via  Breckinridge  374.  — b.  Via  Fergus  Falls  375.  — 

c.  Via  Crookston  and  Pembina  376. 

55.  From  Chicago  to  St.  Louis 376 

a.  Via  Illinois  Central  Railroad 376 

b.  Via  Chicago  & Alton  Railway 376 

From  Dwight  to  Peoria  376. 

c.  Via  Wabash  Railroad  377 


xii 


CONTENTS. 


Route  Page 

56.  From  Chicago  to  Cincinnati 378 

a.  Yia  Lafayette  and  Indianapolis  378.  — b.  Yia  Logans- 

port  379.  — c.  Yia  the  Monon  Route  379. 

57.  From  New  York  to  Cincinnati  379 

a.  Yia  Pennsylvania  Railroad 379 

b.  Yia  Chesapeake  & Ohio  Railway 380 

Monticello  380.  — From  Covington  to  Hot  Springs  381. 

c.  Yia  Cleveland 382 

d.  Yia  Baltimore  & Ohio  Railroad 383 

e.  Yia  Erie  Railroad 383 

58.  Cincinnati 384 

Covington.  Newport.  Serpent  Mound  387. 

59.  From  New  York  to  St.  Louis.  . 387 

a.  Yia  Cleveland  and  Indianapolis 387 

b.  Yia  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburg 388 

c.  Yia  Buffalo  and  Toledo 388 

d.  Yia  Washington  and  Cincinnati 388 

60.  St.  Louis 389 

61.  From  St.  Louis  to  Louisville . 394 

Wyandotte  Cave  395.  — From  Louisville  to  Lexington  "96. 

62.  From  Cincinnati  to  New  Orleans 396 

a.  Yia  Chattanooga  (Queen  & Crescent  Route) 396 


Blue  Grass  Region  397. 

b.  Yia  Louisville  and  Nashville 398 

Mammoth  Cave  of  Kentucky  398. 

c.  Yia  Louisville  and  Memphis  . ^ 400 

From  Memphis  to  New  Orleans  via  Vicksburg  401. 

63.  From  Chicago  and  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans 402 

64  From  St.  Paul  to  New  Orleans  by  the  Mississippi  River  . 403 


65. 


66. 


67. 


From  Washington  to  Richmond 407 

Battlefields  round  Richmond  411.  — m Richmond  to  West 
Point  and  Yorktown  412. 

From  Richmond  to  Norfolk  and  Old  P*)int  Comfort  . . .412 

a.  By  Steamer 

Portsmouth.  Virginia  Beach.  Ocean  View.  Currituck  Sound414. 

b.  Yia  Chesapeake  & Ohio  Railroad 415 

c.  Yia  Norfolk  & Western  Railway  ...  416 

Battlefields  round  Petersburg  416.  — Dismal  > v amp  417. 

From  Washington  to  New  Orleans 417 

a.  Yia  Southern  Railway  and  Atlanta  417 

From  Greensboro -to  Raleigh  and  Goldsboro  and  to  Norfolk 
418.  — Clarksville,  Tallulah  Falls,  etc.  419.  — From  Atlanta 
to  Birmingham  420.  — Environs  of  Mobile  421. 

b.  Yia  Southern  Railway,  Norfolk  & Western  Railway,  and 

Chattanooga 

From  East  Radford  to  Columbus  423.  — Roan  Mt.  Thunder- 
head  Peak  324.  — Cumberland  Gap  425.  — From  Chattanooga 
to  Brunswick^  to  Memphis  426. 

c.  Yia  Seaboard  Air  Line  and  Atlanta 427 

68.  From  Hagerstown  to  Bristol.  The  Shenandoah  Yalley  . . 428 


COISTENTS. 


xiii 


Route  -Page 

69.  From  Salisbury  to  Asheville  and  Morristown 430 

Blowing  Rock.  Montreat  431.  — Excurpions  from  Asheville  432. 

— From  Asheville  to  Spartanburg  and  to  Murphy.  Sapphire 
^ Country.  Lake  Toxoway  433. 

rO.  From  Richmond  to  Charleston 434 

a.  Via  Weldon  (Wilmington) 434 

b.  Via  Charlotte  and  Columbia ’ . 434 

71.  Charleston ’ ^ 435 

Magnolia  Cemetery,  Magnolia  Gardens,  etc.  *437,  438^ 

72.  From  Charleston  to  Augusta 433 

From^  Augusta  to  Atlanta  439. 

73.  From  Richmond  to  Savannah 439 

a.  Via  Charleston 439 

Beaufort.  Port  Royal  439. 

b.  Via  Danville  and  Columbia 440 

74.  From  Savannah  to  Atlanta *.!!!.  442 

75.  From  New  York  to  Florida 443 

a.  Via  Atlantic  Coast  Line ’ 443 

From  Waycross  to  Dupont.  Thomasville  444. 

b.  Via  Southern  Railway 444 

c.  Via  Seaboard  Air  Line 444 

d.  By  Steamer 445 

^ Jacksonville  to  Fernandina  and  to  Majport  446 

fb.  From  JacksonviUe  to  St.  Augustine  and  Miami 447 

Indian  River  451. 

77.  The  St.  John’s  River 454 

78.  The  Ocklawaha  River 455 

79.  From  Jacksonville  to  Tampa .*  450 

a.  Via  Palatka  and  Sanford 450 

Springs  and  St.  Petersburg.  Punta 
Gorda  457  — Key  West  458. 

b.  Via  Palatka  and  Ocala 453 

c.  Via  Waldo  and  Ocala 459 

SarSota  4^60  Turkey  Creek  to 

80.  FromJacksonTmetoTallahassee, Pensacola, andNewOrleans  460 

AT  to  Carrabelle  and  Apalachicola  461. 

ol.  New  Orleans f 404 

from  New  Orleans *466. 

Prom  St.  Paul  to  Everett  and  Seattle 467 

From  Havre  to  Helena  and  Butte  467.  — Lake  McDonald 
ftQ  n Washington.  From  Seattle  to  Vancouver  470. 

Od.  hrom  St.  Paul  to  Tacoma,  Seattle,  and  Portland 470 

T Broadwater  474.  - Cascade  Mts.  Puyallup  477. 
rpu~v  f;  Olympia  478. 

04.  me  Yellowstone  National  Park 479 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  482.* - b.* From 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin  485.  - 
IRfS  Bower  Geyser  Basin  to  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin 

*Be  Upper  Geyser  Basin  to  Yellowstone  Lake 
ttoiei  - e.  From  Yellowstone  Lake  to  the  Grand  Canon 
■ — f-  From  the  Grand  Can  i n to  Tower  Falls  490.  — 
g.  From  Tower  Falls  to^  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  491. 


CONTENTS. 


xiv 


Route 


Page 

491 

491 

492 

493 

494 

495 
. 495 
. 495 


85.  Front  Chicago  to  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha 
a.  Via  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  & St.  Paul  Railway 
h.  Via  Chicago  & North-Western  Railway  . . 

c.  Via  Chicago,  Rock  Island,  & Pacific  Railway 

d.  Via  Chicago,  Burlington,  & Quincy  Railroad 

e.  Via  Illinois  Central  Railroad 

86.  From  Omaha  to  Denver 

a.  Via  Chicago,  Burlington,  & Quincy  Railroad 

From  Lincoln  to  Billings  495. 
h.  Via  Chicago,  Rock  Island,  & Pacific  Railway 

c.  Via  Union  Pacific  Railroad 

87.  From  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha  to  San  Francisco  . 

North  Park  497.  — From  Ogden  to  Pocatello  498.  — From  Reno 
to  Virginia  City  499.  — Sierra  Nevada  500.  — From  Sacramento 
to  Lathrop.  Calaveras  Grove  501. 

88.  From  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha  to  Portland 503 

Shoshone  Falls  503.  — Mt.  Hood  505. 

89.  From  Chicago  to  Kansas  City 506 

a.  Via  Atchison,  Topeka,  & Santa  Fe  Railway oOb 

From  Kansas  City  to  Dallas,  Fort  Worth,  and  Houston  507. 
h.  Via  Chicago  & Alton  Railroad 507 

c.  Via  Wabash  Railroad 507 

d.  Via  Chicago,  Rock  Island,  & Pacific  Railway 508 

e.  Via  Chicago  Great  Western  Railway 508 

f.  Via  Burlington  Route .*  * * 

g.  Via  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  & St.  Paul  Railway. 

90.  From  St.  Louis  to  Kansas  City  and  Denver  . . 

91.  From  St.  Louis  to  Texarkana 

92.  From  Kansas  City  to  San  Francisco 512 

a.  Via  Union  Pacific  Railway  System • 512 

Leavenworth  512.  — From  Denver  to  Golden,  Central  ^ty, 
and  Graymont  514.  — From  Denver  to  Boulder  and  Fort 
Collins  bib.  — From  Denver  to  Leadville,  to  Gunnison  (South 
Park),  Around  the  Circle,  and  to  La  Junta  516,  517. 

h.  Via  Atchison,  Topeka,  & Santa  Fe  Railway 517 

From  Newton  to  Galveston.  Oklahoma  518.  ' Las  Vegas 

Hot  Springs.  Santa  Fe  519.  — From  Albuquerque  to  El  Paso 
520.  — Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado  522.  From  Ash  Fork 
to  Phoenix  524.  — Randshurg  Mining  District  525. 

93.  From  Kansas  City  to  Los  Angeles  .......  . . • 526 

From  San  Bernardino  to  San  Diego  and  National  City  5^b. 

94.  From  Denver  to  Salt  Lake  City  and  Ogden 628 

a.  Via  Denver  & Rio  Grande  Railroad • 528 

Excursions  from  Colorado  Springs  529-531.  < 

to  Alamosa  (San  Luis  Park;  Creede),  Durango  (Mancos  Cliff  ^ 
Dwellings),  Silverton,  and  Ouray  532,  533.  — From  Florence 

to  Cripple  Creek  534.  - From  Salida  to  Grand  Junction  via 
Leadville.  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range.  Crested  Butte  535. 

b.  Via  Colorado  Midland  Railway  ••••••/*••  53  ‘ 

From  Divide  to  Cripple  Creek  538.  — Salt  Lake  City  539. 

Great  Salt  Lake.  From  Salt  Lake  City  to  Calientes  542. 


496 

496 

496 


509 

509 

509 

510 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


Route  Page 

95.  San  Francisco 543 


Excursions  from  San  Francisco : Cliff  House,  Mt.  San  Bruno, 
Mare  Island,  San  Francisco  Bay,  Sausalito,  Mt.  Tamalpais, 
Cazadero,  San  Rafael,  Geyser  Springs,  Alameda,  Calistcga, 
Mt.  St.  Helena,  Mt.  Diablo,  Sonoma  550-553. 

96.  From  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Cruz  via  the  Narrow-Gauge 


Railway 555 

Big  Trees  of  Santa  Cruz  555. 

97.  From  San  Francisco  to  Los  Angeles 556 

a.  Via  Coast  Line 556 

Pescadero  556.  — Stanford  University  557.  — Lick  Observatory 

558.  — Excursions  from  Monterey  559.  — Excursions  from 
Santa  Barbara  562. 

b.  Via  the  San  Joaquin  Valley 564 

Sequoia  National  Park  564. 

98.  Los  Angeles 566 

Santa  Monica.  Redondo  Beach.  Long  Beach.  San  Pedro.  Santa 
Catalina.  Monrovia,  Redlands,  etc. 

99.  From  Los  Angeles  to  Pasadena 569 

Excursions  from  Pasadena.  Mt.  Wilson.  Echo  Mt.  Mt.  Lowe 
570,  571. 

100.  From  Los  Angeles  to  San  Diego  and  National  City  . . .571 

Coronado  Beach  572. 

101.  The  Yosemite  Valley 574 

Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees  576.  — Excursions  in  the  High 
Sierra  581. 

102.  From  San  Francisco  to  Portland 582 

Mt.  Shasta.  Crater  Lake  583.  — Excursions  from  Portland 
685. 

103.  From  San  Francisco  to  New  Orleans 586 


From  San  Antonio  to  Rockport  or  Aransas  Pass,  to  Austin, 
and  to  Laredo  591,  592.  — From  Houston  to  Galveston  592. 

104.  From  New  Orleans  to  Dallas,  Fort  Worth,  and  El  Paso  . 594 

Great  Staked  Plain  596. 

105.  From  Tacoma  to  Puget  Sound,  Victoria,  and  Alaska.  . . 596 

Vancouver  Island  598.  — Silver  Bow  and  Treadwell  Mines 
604.  — From  Skagway  to  the  Klondike  District  605.  — Unalaska. 

Mt.  Logan,  Mt.  St.  Elias,  and  Mt.  McKinley  607. 


Mexico. 


Introductory  Notes 608 

106.  From  Laredo  to  the  City  of  Mexico 609 

Nevado  de  Toluca  611. 

107.  From  Eagle  Pass  to  the  City  of  Mexico 612 

Durango  613. 

108.  From  El  Paso  to  the  City  of  Mexico 613 

From  Torreon  to  Monterey  and  Tampico*,  to  Saltillo.  From 
Zacatecas  to  Guadalupe  614.  — From  Aguascalientes  to  Tam- 
pico. Guanajuato  615.  — From  Irapuato  to  Guadalajara  616. 

109.  The  City  of  Mexico 617 

Excursions  from  the  City  of  Mexico.  Chapultepec.  Guada- 
lupe Hidalgo.  Floating  Gardens.  Arbol  de  la  Noche  Triste. 


Ascent  of  Popocatepetl.  Cuernavaca.  Pachucha  621,  622. 


X VL 


MAPS  AND  PLANS. 


Route  Page 

110.  From  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Yera  Cruz 621 

a.  Via  Apizaco  and  Orizaba 623 

From  Apizaco  to  Paetla  623.  — From  Cordoba  to  Santa 
Lucrecia  624. 

b.  Via  Puebla  and  Jalapa 625 

CRolula.  From  Puebla  to  Oaxaca  625. 

Index 627 


Maps. 

1.  Tbe  Eastern  United  States,  before  the  title-page. 

2.  The  Farther  Environs  of  New  York;  p.  2. 

A The  Nearer  Environs  of  New  York;  p.  66. 

4.  Railway  Map  of  the  New  England  Atates;  p.  76. 

5.  The  Environs  of  Boston;  p.  116. 

6.  Mount  Desert  Island  ; p.  134. 

7.  The  White  Mountains;  p.  158. 

8.  The  Berkshire  Hills;  p.  174. 

9.  The  Catskill  Mountains;  p.  202. 

10.  The  Adirondack  Mountains;  p.  208. 

11.  Railway  Map  of  the  Middle  States;  p.  257. 

12.  The  Environs  of  Gettysburg;  p.  292. 

13.  The  Battlefield  of  Gettysburg;  p.  293. 

14.  The  Environs  of  Newport  News,  Norfolk,  Portsmouth,  and 
Old  Point  Comfort;  p.  412. 

15.  The  Environs  of  Charleston;  p.  435. 

16.  Northern  Florida;  p.  443. 

17.  The  Yellowstone  National  Park;  p.  478. 

18.  The  Grand  CaSTon  of  the  Colorado;  p.  522. 

19.  The  Environs  of  Colorado  Springs;  p.  528. 

20.  The  Environs  of  San  Francisco;  p.  560. 

21.  Southern  California;  p.  570. 

22.  The  Yosemite  Valley;  p.  574. 

23.  The  Coast  of  British  Columbia  and  Alaska;  p.  598. 

24.  Southern  Mexico;  p.  622. 

!^.  General  Map  of  the  United  States,  after  the  Index. 

Flans. 

1.  Albany  (p.  196).  — 2.  Baltimore  (p.  301).  — 3.  Boston,  with  sub- 
urbs (p.  94).  — 4.  Boston  (p.  100).  — 5.  Brooklyn  (p.  69).  — 6.  Buffalo 
(p.  238).  — 7.  Cambridge,  with  Harvard  University  (p.  112).  — 8.  Chicago 
(p.  346).  — 9.  Chicago,  central  part  (p.  348).  — 10.  Cincinnati  (p.  384).  — 
11.  Cleveland  (p.  331).  — 12.  Denver  (p.  513).  — 13.  Detroit  (p.  335).  — 
14.  Indianapolis  (p.  378).  — 15.  Mexico  (p.  618).  — 16.  Milwaukee  (p.  359). 
— 17.  Minneapolis  (p.  367).  — 18.  New  Haven,  with  Yale  University 
(p.  78).  — 19.  New  Orleans  (p.  461).  — 20.  New  York,  general  plan  (p.  6).  — 
21.  New  York,  lower  part  (p.  30).  — 22.  Niagara  Falls  (p.  248).  — 
23.  Philadelphia  (p.  259)., — 24.  Pittsburg  (p.  295).  — 25.  Richmond 
(p.  409).  — 26.  St.  Augustine  (p.  447).  — 27.  St.  Louis  (p.  389).  — 28. 
St.  Paul  (p.  365).  — 29.  Salt  Lake  City  (p.  539).  — 30.  San  Francisco 
(p.  543).  — 31.  Savannah  (p.  440).  — 32.  Washington  (p.  308). 

Ground-Plans  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  at  New  York 
(groundfloor  and  upper  floor,  pp.  56,  57),  and  of  the  Capitol  and  Ihe 
National  Museum  at  Washington  (pp.  314,  315). 


INTRODUCTION. 


I.  Money.  Expenses.  Passports.  Custom  House.  Time. 

Money.  Tlie  currency  of  the  United  States  is  arranged  on  a 
decimal  system,  of  which  the  dollar  ($),  divided  into  100  cents 
(c.),  is  the  unit.  The  Gold  coins  are  the  pieces  of  $ 1 (no  longer 
minted),  $2^25  $ 5)  $ 10,  and  $ 20.  The  Silver  coins  are  the  dollar, 
half-dollar,  quarter  dollar  (=  1 s.)  , and  ‘dime’  (10  c.).  The  5 c. 
piece  or  ‘nickel’  is  made  of  Nickel  (silver  5 c.  pieces  still  occasion- 
ally seen),  and  there  are  Bronze  pieces  of  1 c.  (I/2 d.) and 2 c.  (id.'). 
The  3 c.  piece  (nickel)  is  no  longer  coined.  The  U.  S.  Paper  Cur- 
rency consists  of  Gold  Notes  (of  the  denomination  of  $ 20,  $ 50, 
$100,  $500,  $1000,  $5000,  and  $10,000),  United  States  Notes 
(‘greenbacks’),  U.  S.  Treasury  Notes,  and  Silver  Certificates.  The 
last  three  are  issued  for  $1,  $2,  $5,  $10,  $20,  $50,  $100,  $500, 
and  $ 1000.  All  are  redeemable  at  par.  The  National  Bank  Bills 
(from  $ 5 to  $ 1000)  are  also  universally  current.  Throughout  nearly 
the  whole  of  the  country  notes  are  much  more  common  than  coins 
for  all  sums  of  $ 1 and  upwards ; but  on  the  Pacific  Slope  gold  and 
silver  are  in  almost  exclusive  use.  For  practical  purposes  the 
dollar  may  be  reckoned  as  4s.  and  $5  as  il.;  but  the  actual  rate  of 
exchange  for  il.  is  generally  between  $4.80  and  $4,90  (or  $1 
= about  4s.  2d.). 

The  European  visitor  to  the  United  States  will  find  it  con- 
venient to  carry  his  money  in  the  form  of  letters  of  credit,  or  cir- 
cular notes,  which  are  readily  procurable  at  the  principal  banks. 
Foreign  money  does  not  circulate  in  the  United  States,  even  the 
Canadian  coins  of  exactly  the  same  form  and  value  as  American 
coins  being  generally  refused;  but  Bank  of  England  notes  are 
usually  taken  at  their  full  value  at  the  hotels  of  all  the  larger 
cities.  — Post  Office  Orders  (see  p.  xxix)  are  not  convenient  for 
strangers,  as  evidence  of  identity  is  generally  required  before  pay- 
ment, though  this  may  be  waived  by  the  remitter,  but  the  travellers’ 
cheques  issued  by  the  American  Express  Company  (see  pp.  xxix,  18) 
are  cashed  at  sight  in  the  same  way  as  Post  Office  Orders  in  Great 
Britain  and  form  a very  satisfactory  mode  of  paying  one’s  way.  The 
company  has  offices  in  London  (3  Waterloo  Place),  Paris  (11  Rue 
Scribe),  Liverpool,  Southampton,  and  other  important  towns  of 
Europe.  Most  of  the  other  large  Express  Companies  (pp.  xxix,  18) 
also  issue  Money  Orders  payable  at  sight  (fee  for  $ 5,  5 c. ; $ 10,  8 c.; 

$ 50,  20  c,). 

Expenses.  The  expenses  of  a visit  to  the  United  States  depend, 
of  course,  on  the  habits  and  tastes  of  the  traveller,  but  are  almost 
inevitably  from  one -fourth  to  one -third  higher  than  those  of 
European  travel.  The  distances  to  be  traversed  are  so  great  that 
railway-fares  are  sure  to  be  absolutely,  even  when  not  relatively, 

Baedekek’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  u 


XYiii 


I.  TIME. 


higher  (comp.  p.  xxi);  and  comfortable  hotels  of  the  second  or 
third  class  are  comparatiYely  rare.  Persons  of  moderate  require- 
ments, howeYer,  hy  frequenting  hoarding-houses  instead  of  hotels 
and  aYoiding  carriage-hire  as  much  as  possible,  may  trayel  comfort- 
ably (exclusive  of  long  continuous  journeys)  for  $ O-Y'/a  s-J 

a day  • hut  it  would  he  safer  to  reckon  on  a daily  expenditure  of 
at  least  $ 10  (21.).  An  entire  day  (24  hrs.)  spent  on  the  train 
(i  e a iourney  of  600-800  M.)  costs,  with  Pullman  car  accommo- 
dation and  meals,  about  $20  (4l.).  The  cost  of  living  ^ries 
considerably  in  different  parts  of  the  country;  and  New  York, 
where  most  visitors  land,  is  one  of  the  most  expensive  cities  in 

America.  Comp.  pp.  xxvi,  10.  , ^ aj.  ^ 

Passports,  though  not  necessary  in  the  United  States,  may  be 
useful  in  procuring  delivery  of  registered  and  poste  restante  letters. 

Custom  House.  The  custom-house  examination  of  the  luggage 
of  travellers  entering  the  United  States  is  generally  conducted 
courteously  but  often  with  considerable  minuteness.  Nothing  is 
admitted  free  of  duty  except  the  personal  effects  of  the  traveller, 
and  unusually  liberal  supplies  of  unworn  clothing  are  apt  to  be 
regarded  with  considerable  suspicion.  Residents  of  the  United 
States  may  not  introduce  free  clothing  or  other  personal  effects  pur- 
chased abroad  of  a greater  total  value  than  $100.  They  may  not 
bring  in  sealskin  garments  made  abroad  at  all ; and  if  they  take  such 
garments  with  them  to  other  countries,  they  should  ‘register  them 
before  starting  with  the  U.S.  Customs  Collector  at  the  port  of  de- 
parture. The  traveller  should  be  careful  to  ‘declare  everything  he 
has  of  a dutiable  nature,  as  otherwise  it  is  liable  to  summary  con- 
fiscation (comp.  p.  xix).  Not  more  than  50  cigars  or  300  cigarettes 

may  be  passed  free.  •,  ,,  a.  j j 

Time.  Tor  the  convenience  of  railways  and  others  a standard 
of  Time  for  the  United  States  was  agreed  upon  in  1883,  and  a 
system  adopted  by  which  the  country  was  divided  into  four  sections 
each  of  16^"  of  longitude  (1  hr.).  Eastern  Time,  or  that  of  the  75th 
Meridian,  prevails  from  the  Atlantic  Coast  to  a line  running  through 
Detroit,  Buffalo,  Pittsburg,  and  Charleston.  Central  Time  (of  Meri- 
dian 90),  1 hr.  slower,  extends  thence  to  a line  running  from 
Bismarck  (N.D.)  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Mountain^  Time 
(105^^  Ion  ) extends  to  the  W.  borders  of  Idaho,  Utah,  and  Arizona. 
Paciiie  Time  (120®)  covers  the  rest  of  the  country.  Thus  noon  at 
New  York  is  11  a.m.  at  Chicago,  10  a.m.  at  Denver,  and  9 a.m.  at 
San  Francisco.  True  local  or  mean  solar  time  may  be  anywhere 
from  1 min.  to  30  min.  ahead  or  behind  the  standard  time.  In 
some  cases,  where  the  local  clocks  keep  true  time  and  the  railway 
clocks  keep  standard  time,  the  results  are  confusing;  but  the  new 
system  is  a vast  improvement  on  the  former  multiplicity  of  standards, 
and  railway  time,  except  near  the  dividing  lines,  is  now  universa  y 
employed  locally. 


III.  RAILWAYS 


xix 


II.  Voyage  from  Europe  to  the  United  States. 

The  chief  routes  from  Europe  to  the  United  States  are  indicated 
in  R.  1 (comp,  also  p.  8) ; and  the  steamers  of  any  of  the  com- 
panies there  mentioned  afford  comfortable  accommodation  and 
speedy  transit.  The  fares  vary  considerably  according  to  season  and 
the  character  of  the  vessel ; but  the  extremes  for  a saloon-passage 
may  be  placed  at  $50  (lOL)  and  $500  (100^.),  the  latter  sum  secur- 
ing a suite  of  deck-rooms  on  the  largest,  finest,  and  quickest  boats 
in  the  service.  The  average  rate  for  a good  stateroom  in  a good 
steamer  may  be  reckoned  at  $75-125  (15-25^.).  The  intermediate 
or  second  cabin  costs  $30-65  (6-13L),  the  steerage  $15-20  (3-4L). 
The  slowest  steamers,  as  a general  rule,  have  the  lowest  fares ; and 
for  those  who  do  not  object  to  a prolongation  of  the  voyage  they 
often  offer  as  much  comfort  as  the  ‘ocean  greyhounds.’ 

The  average  duration  of  the  passage  across  the  Atlantic  is  6-9  days. 
Passengers  should  pack  clothing  and  other  necessaries  for  the  voyage  in 
small  flat  boxes  (not  portmanteaus),  such  as  can  lie  easily  in  the  cabin 
as  all  bulky  luggage  is  stowed  away  in  the  hold.  Stateroom  trunks  should 
not  exceed  3 ft.  in  length,  11/2-2  ft.  in  breadth,  and  15  inches  in  height, 
irunks  not  wanted  on  board  should  be  marked  ‘Hold’  or  ‘Not  Wanted’ 
the  others  ‘Cabin’  or  ‘Wanted’.  The  steamship  companies  generally  provide 
labels  for  this  purpose.  Dress  for  the  voyage  should  be  of  a plain  and 
serviceable  description,  and  it  is  advisable,  even  in  midsummer,  to  be 
provided  with  warm  clothing.  A deck-chair,  which  may  be  purchased  or 
hired  (15.)  before  sailing,  is  a luxury  that  may  almost  be  called  a neces- 
sary.  If  bought,  it  should  be  distinctly  marked  with  the  owner’s  name  or 
initials,  and  may  be  left  in  charge  of  the  Steamship  Co.’s  agents  until 
the  return-journey.  On  going  on  board,  the  traveller  should  apply  to  the 
purser  or  chief  steward  for  a seat  at  table,  as  the  same  seats  are  retained 
throughout  the  voyage.  It  is  usual  to  give  a fee  of  10s.  (21/2  dollars)  to 
the  table-steward  and  to  the  stateroom-steward,  and  small  gratuities  are 
also  expected  pjy  the  boot-cleaner,  the  bath-steward,  etc.  The  stateroom 
steward  should  not  be  tipped’  until  he  has  brought  all  the  passenger’s 
small  baggage  safely  on  to  the  landing-stage.  The  customary  ibes  arl  of 
course,  much  lower  in  the  second  cabin.  — Landing  at  New  York,  see  pp  3 7 

The  custom-house  officer  usually  boards  vessels  at  the  Quarantine  Sta- 
tion (see  p 3)  and  furnishes  blank  forms  on  which  the  passengers  ‘declare’ 
any  dutiable  articles  they  may  have  in  their  trunks.  The  luggage  is 
examined  in  the  covered  hall  adjoining  the  wharf,  where  it  is  arranged  as 
far  as  possible  in  alphabetical  order  by  the  initials  of  the  owners’  names 
(comp.  p.  7).  After  the  examination  the  traveller  may  hire  a carriage 
to  take  himself  and  his  baggage  to  his  destination , or  he  may  send  his 
trunks  by  a transfer-a^nt  or  express  man  (see  p.  xxii)  and  go  himself  on 
foot  or  by  tramway.  Telegraph  messengers  and  representatives  of  hotels 
also  meet  the  steamers. 


III.  Railways.  Steamers.  Coaches.  Tramways. 

Railways.  The  United  States  now  contain  about  210,000  M* 
of  railway,  or  about  two-fifths  of  the  total  mileage  of  the  world- 
The  lines  are  all  in  private  hands,  and  the  capital  invested  in  them 

amounts  to  about  $14,000,000,000  (2,800,000,0000.  Nearly 
50  corporations  report  over  1000  M.  of  track  each,  while  the  Penn- 
sylvania Railroad  System  alone  works  fully  10,500  M.  The  total 

b* 


XX 


III.  RAILWAYS. 


number  of  employees  is  about  1,200,000.  The  railway  mileage  per 
1 sq.  M.  of  surface  varies  greatly  in  the  different  states.  Illinois  has 
about  il,000  M.  of  railway,  Rhode  Island  about  220  M.  In  1902 
the  number  of  passengers  carried  was  655,130,236  and  the  average 
distance  travelled  by  each  was  about  30  M. 

The  equipments  of  American  railways  are,  as  is  well  known,  very 
different  from  those  of  European  railways , though  the  standard  gauge 
(4  ft  8V2  in.)  is  the  same.  Instead  of  comparatively  small  coaches, 
divided  into  compartments  holding  6-8  people  each,  the  American  rail- 
ways have  long  cars  (like  an  enlarged  tramway-car),  holding  bO-70  pers., 
entered  by  doors  at  each  end,  and  having  a longitudinal  passage  down 
the  middle,  with  the  seats  on  each  side  of  it.  Each  seat  has  room  for 
two  passengers.  Local  and  short-distance  trains,  especially  in  the  East, 
generally  have  one  class  of  carriage  only,  but  all  long-distance  trams  are 
also  furnished  with  drawing-room  (parlor)  cars  by  day  and  sleeping-cars 
at  night  which  accommodate  about  24-30  people  in  the  same  space  as  the 
ordinary  cars  and  are  in  every  way  much  more  comfortable.  Second-class 
and  emigrant  carriages  are.  also  found  on  some  long-distance  trains  and  m 
parts  of  the  South  and  West,  but  scarcely  concern  the  tourist.  Smoking 
is  not  permitted  except  in  the  cars  (‘Smokers’)  specially  provided  for  the 
purpose  and  generally  found  at  the  forward  end  of  the  train.  Smoking  com- 
partments are  also  usually  found  in  the  parlor-cars.  The  parlor  and  sleeping 
cars  are  generally  the  property  of  special  corporations,  of  which  the  1 ull- 
man  Company  is  the  chiefs  but  on  a few  railways  they  belong  to  the  rail- 
wav-company  itself.  The  vexed  question  of  whether  the  American  or  the 
European  railwav-carriage  is  the  more  comfortable  is  hard  to  decide,  it 
may  be  said  generally,  however,  that  the  small  compartnaent  system  would 
never  have  done  for  the  long  journeys  of  America,  while  the  parlor-cans 
certainly  offer  greater  comfort  in  proportion  to  their  expense  than  the 
European  first-class  carriages  do.  A Limited  Vestibuled  Tram^  such  as  that 
described  at  p.  312,  comes  measurably  near  the  ideal  of  comfortable  railway 
travelling  and  reduces  to  a minimum  the  bodily  discomfort  and  tedium  of 
long  railway-journeys.  In  comparing  the  ordinary  American  car  with  the 
second-class  or  the  best  third-class  carriages  of  Europe,  some  travellers 
may  be  inclined  to  give  the  preference  for  short  journeys  to  the  latter. 
The  seats  in  the  American  cars  offer  very  limited  room  for  two  persons, 
and  their  backs  are  too  low  to  afford  any  support  to  the  bead^  a single 
crying  infant  or  spoiled  child  annoys  60-70  persons  instead  of  the  few  in 
one  compartment:  the  passenger  has  little  control  over  his  window,  as 
someone  in  the  car  is  sure  to  object  if  be  opens  it^  the  window  opens 
upward  instead  of  downward^  the  continual  opening  and  shutting  of  the 
doors,  with  the  consequent  draughts,  are  annoying^  the  incessant  vis- 
itation of  the  train-boy,  with  his  books,  candy,  and  other  articles  for  sale, 
renders  a quiet  nap  almost  impossible^  while,  in  the  event  of  an  accident, 
there  are  only  two  exits  for  60  people  instead  of  six  or  eight.  On  the 
other  hand  the  liberty  of  moving  about  the  car,  or,  in  fact,  from  end 
to  end  of  the  train,  the  toilette  accommodation,  and  the  amusement  oi 
watching  one’s  fellow-passengers  greatly  mitigate  the  tedium  of  a long 
journey^  while  the  publicity  prevents  any  risk  of  the  railway  crimes 
sometimes  perpetrated  in.  the  separate  compartments  of  the  European 
system.  Rugs,  as  a rule,  are  not  necessary,  as  the  cars  are  apt  to  be  over, 
rather  than  under,  heated.  Little  accommodation  is  provided  in  the  way 
of  luggage -racks,  so  that  travellers  should  reduce  their  hand-baggage  to 
the  smallest  possible  dimensions.  — In  the  sleeping-car  the  pa.^senger  en- 
gages a Half-Section,  consisting  of  a so-called  ‘double  berth  , which,  how- 
ever, is  rarely  used  by  more  than  one  person.  If  desirous  of  more  air  s^nd 
space , he  may  engage  a whole  Section  (at  double  the  rate  of  a half- 
section), but  in  many  cases  a passenger  is  not  allowed  to  monopolize  a 
whole  section  to  the  exclusion  of  those  not  otherwise  able  to  find  accom- 
modation. Parties  of  2-4  may  secure  Drawing  Rooms,  or  private  compart- 
ments. A lower  berth  is  generally  considered  preferable  to  an  upper 


III.  RAILWAYS. 


xxi 


berth,  as  it  is  easier  to  get  into  and  commands  the  window  ^ but,  by  what 
seems  a somewhat  illiberal  regulation  of  the  sleeping-car  companies,  the 
upper  berth  is  always  let  down,  whether  occupied  or  not,  unless  the  whole 
section  is  paid  for.  So  far  nothing  has  been  done  towards  reserving  a 
special  part  of  the  car  for  ladies,  except  in  the  shape  of  a small  toilette 
and  dressing  room.  The  Pullman  agent  at  a terminal  station  may  some- 
times be  unable  to  supply  a lower  berth,  but  the  traveller  may  find  it 
possible  to  exchange  an  upper  for  a lower  berth  at  one  of  the  larger  stations 
en  route.  — The  so-called  Tourist  Cars.,  now  found  on  all  the  main  trans- 
continental lines,  may  be  described  as  second-class  Pullman  Cars  (see  p.  xx) 
at  about  half  the  Pullman  rates , and  may  be  recommended  to  those  who 
wish  to  economize.  They  are,  hoAvever,  apt  to  contain  too  many  noisy 
children  ^ and  the  facilities  afforded  for  light  cooking  are  not  appreciated 
by  those  who  do  not  make  use  of  them.  Passengers  by  these  cars  may 
take  their  meals  in  the  dining-cars  (see  below).  — Dining  Cars  are  often 
attached  to  long-distance  trains,  and  the  meals  and  service  upon  them  are 
generally  better  than  those  of  the  railway-restaurants.  The  charge  for  a 
meal  is  usually  $1,  sometimes  75  c.  In  the  instances  where  the  a la  carte 
system  is  in  vogue,  the  prices  are  comparatively  high;  and  this  is  also 
true  of  refreshments  furnished  from  the  buffets  of  sleeping  or  parlor  cars. 
" Tickets  are  collected  on  the  train  by  the  Conductor  (guard),  who  some- 
times gives  counter  - checks  in  exchange  for  them.  Separate  tickets  are 
issued  for  the  seats  in  parlor-cars  and  the  berths  in  sleeping-cars ; and  such 
cars  generally  have  special  conductors.  Fees  are  never  given  except  to  the 
coloured  Porters  of  the  parlor-cars,  who  brush  the  traveller's  clothes  and 
(on  overnight  journeys)  boots  and  expect  about  25c.  a day.  In  America 
the  traveller  is  left  to  rely  upon  his  own  common  sense  still  more  freely 
than  in  England,  and  no  attempt  is  made  to  take  care  of  him  in  the  patri- 
archal fashion  of  Continental  railways.  He  should,  therefore,  be  careful 
to  see  that  he  is  in  his  proper  car,  etc.  The  conductor  calls  ‘all  aboard’, 
when  the  train  is  about  to  start,  but  on  many  lines  no  warning  bell  is 
rung.  The  names  of  the  places  passed  are  often  not  shown  distinctly 
(sometimes  not  at  all)  at  the  stations,  and  the  brakeman  or  trainman, 
whose  duty  is  to^  announce  each  station  as  the  train  reaches  it,  is  apt  to 
be  entirely  unintelligible.  A special  word  of  caution  may  be  given  as  to  the 
frequent  necessity  for  crossing  the  tracks,  as  the  rails  are  often  flush  with 
the  floor  of  the  station  and  foot-bridges  or  tunnels  are  rarely  provided 
Each  locomotive  carries  a large  bell,  which  is  tolled  as  it  approaches 
stations^  or  level  Cgrade’)  crossings.  — ■ With  the  exception  of  the  main 
line  tivains  in  the  Eastern  States  (some  of  which  rank  among  the  fastest 
in  the  world),  the  speedy  of  American  trains  is,  perhaps,  generally  lower 
than  that  of  English  trains;  and  over  a large  portion  of  the  South  and 
West  It  does  not  exceed  20-25  M.  per  hour  even  for  through-trains. 

Fares  vary  so  much  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  that  it  is  difficult 
to  state  an  average.  Perhaps  3 c.  (11/2^.)  per  mile  will  be  found  nearly 
correct  on  the  whole,  though  in  E.  states  the  rate  is  frequently  lower, 
especially  for  season,  ‘commutation’  (good  for  so  many  trips),  or  mileage 
tickets,  while  in  the  S.  and  W.  3 c.  is  sometimes  exceeded.  The  extra  rate 
tor  the  palace-cars  (V2-I  c.  per  mile)  is  low  as  compared  with  the  difference 
between  the  first  and  third  class  fares  in  England,  and  the  extra  comfort 
afforded  is  very  great,  lleturn-tickets  (‘excursion’  or  ‘round  trip’  tickets) 
issued  at  considerable  reductions  (comp,  also  p.  xxvi).  The 
lUl  j M.  Tickets,  from  which  the  conductor  collects  coupons  representing 
the  number  of  miles  travelled,  is  a convenient  arrangement.  A distinction 
IS  trequently  made  between  ‘Limited’  and  ‘Unlimited’  tickets,  the  former 
cheaper  admitting  of  continuous  passage  only,  without  ‘stopovers’; 
and  the  latter  being  available  until  used  and  admitting  of  ‘stopovers’  at 
any  place  on  the  route.  Tickets  may  sometimes  be  obtained  at  lower  than 
the  regulation  rates  at  the  offices  of  the  so-called  ‘Scalpers’,  found  in  all 
large  towns;  but  the  stranger  should  hardly  attempt  to  deal  with  them 
unless  aided  by  a friendly  expert.  In  some  states  their  business  is  illegal. 
Kailway-fores  change  more  frequently  in  the  United  States  than  in  Europe, 
so  that  the  continued  accuracy  of  those  given  throughout  the  Handbook 


xiii 


III.  RAILWAYS. 


cannot  be  guaranteed.  — At  the  larger  railway-stations  the  place  of  the  Arst^ 
second,  and  third  class  waiting-rooms  of  Europe  is  taken  by  a Ladies 
Room,  to  which  men  are  also  generally  admitted  if  not  smoking,  and  a 
Men'‘s  Room,  in  which  smoking  is  often  permitted. 

Among  the  American  Railway  Terms  with  which  the  traveller  should 
be  familiar  (in  addition  to  those  already  incidentally  mentioned)  are 
the  following.  Railroad  is  generally  used  instead  of  railway  (the  latter 
term  being  more  often  applied  to  street-railways,  i.e.  tramways),  while 
the  word  ‘Road’  alone  is  often  used  to  mean  railroad.  The  carriages 
are  called  Cars.  The  Conductor  is  aided  by  Trainmen  or  Brakemen,  whose 
duties  include  attention  to  the  beating  and  lighting  of  the  cars.  A slow 
train  is  called  an  Accommodation  or  Way  Train.  The  Ticket  Office  is  never 
called  boohing-office.  Coupon  Tickets  are  tickets  for  long  journeys,  usually 
over  the  lines  of  different  corporations,  consisting  of  two  or  more  detachable 
coupons  for  the  intermediate  stages.  Luggage  is  Baggage,  and  is  expedited 
through  the  Baggage  Master  (see  below).  Depot  is  very  commonly  used 
instead  of  station,  and  in  many  places  the  latter  word,  when  used  ^one, 
means  police-station.  A season-ticket  holder  is  known  as  a Commuter.  Other 
terms  in  common  use  are:  turn-out  = siding;  lumper  = buffer;  box- car  — 
closed  goods  car;  freight- train  = goods  train;  caboose  = guard’s  van  (of 
goods  train);  cars  = train;  to  pull  out  = to  start;  way  station  = small, 
wayside  station;  cow-catcher  — fender  in  front  of  engine;  switch  = shunt; 

switches  = points.  ^ ... 

The  railway-system  of  the  United  States  is  so  vast  that  it  is  imprac- 
t’ cable  to  produce  such  complete  Railway  Guides  as  those  of  European 
countries.  The  fullest  is  The  Official  Guide  of  the  Railways  and  Steam 
Navigation  Lines  in  the  United  States,  Porto  Rico,  Canada,  Mexico,  and  Cuba, 
a bulky  volume  of  1100-1200  pp.,  published  monthly  at  New  York  (75  c.) 
The  Travellers  Railway  Guide,  Eastern  Section,  and  Western  Section,  issued 
monthly  at  New  York  and  Chicago  (each  25  c.),  are  pocket- editions  of  the 
Official  Guide.  Local  collections  of  time-tables  are  everywhere  procurable, 
and  those  of  each  railway- company  may  be  obtained  gratis  at  the 
offices  and  in  hotels.  All  the  more  important  railway-companies  publish 
a mass  of  ‘folders’  and  descriptive  pamphlets,  which  are  distributed  gratis 
and  give  a great  deal  of  information  about  the  country  traversed.  These 
are  often  very  skilfully  prepared  and  well  illustrated. 

Luggage.  Each  passenger  on  an  American  railway  is  generally  en- 
titled to  150  lbs.  of  luggage  (‘baggage^)  free;  but  overweight,  unless  ex- 
orbitant, is  not  always  charged  for.  The  so-called  Check  System  makes  the 
management  of  luggage  very  simple.  On  arrival  at  the  station  the  trav- 
eller shows  his  railway  - ticket  and  hands  over  his  impedimenta  to  the 
Baggage  Master,  who  fastens  a small  numbered  tag,  made  of  brass  or  card- 
board, to  each  article  and  gives  the  passenger  brass  or  cardboard  cnecks 
with  corresponding  numbers.  The  railway-company  then  becomes  respons- 
ible for  the  luggage  and  holds  it  until  reclaimed  at  the  passengers 
destination  by  the  presentation  of  the  duplicate  check.  As  the  tram  ap- 
proaches the  larger  cities,  a Transfer  Agent  usually  walks  through  the 
cars,  undertaking  the  delivery  of  luggage  and  giving  receipts  in  exchange 
for  the  checks.  The  charge  for  this  is  usually  at  least  25  c.  per  package,  and 
it  is  thus  more  economical  (though  a composition  may  sometimes  be  effected 
for  a number  of  articles)  to  have  one  large  trunk  instead  of  two  or  three 
smaller  ones.  The  hotel-porters  who  meet  the  train  will  also  take  the 
traveller’s  checks  and  see  that  his  baggage  is  delivered  at  the  hotel.  In 
starting,  the  trunks  may  be  sent  to  the  railway-station  in  the  same  way, 
either  through  a transfer  agent  or  the  hotel-porter;  and  if  the  traveller 
already  has  his  railway-ticket  they  may  often  be  checked  through  from  the 
house  or  hotel  to  his  destination,  even  though  that  be  at  the  other  side 
of  the  continent,  3000  M.  away.  Baggage,  unaccompanied  by  its  owner, 
may  be  sent  to  any  part  of  the  country  by  the  Express  Companies  (comp, 
p.  18),  which  charge  in  proportion  to  weight  and  distance.  The  drawbacks 
to  the  transfer  system  are  that  the  baggage  must  usually  be  ready  to  be 
called  for  before  the  traveller  himself  requires  to  start,  and  that  sometimes 
(especially  in  New  York)  a little  delay  may  take  place  in  its  delivery; 


m.  COACHES. 


xxiii 


bnt  this  may,  of  co\li*sO,  be  avoided  by  the  more  expensive  plan  of  using 
a carriage  between  the  house  and  railway-station. 

Steamers.  Some  of  the  American  steamers , such  as  the  Fall 
River  and  Hudson  boats  (pp.  87,  186),  offer  comforts  and  luxuries 
such  as  are  scarcely  known  in  Europe,  and  their  fares  are  usually 
moderate.  Where  the  fare  does  not  include  a separate  stateroom,  the 
traveller  by  night  will  find  the  extra  expenditure  for  one  ($  1-2) 
more  than  compensated.  Meals  are  sometimes  included  in  the  fare 
and  are  sometimes  served  either  d la  carte  or  at  a fixed  price.  Through- 
out the  Handbook  the  traveller  will  find  indicated  the  routes  on  which 
he  may  advantageously  prefer  the  steamer  to  the  railway. 

Coaches , usually  called  Stages and  in  some  country-places 
Barges^  have  now  been  replaced  by  railways  throughout  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  United  States,  hut  in  places  like  the  Yosemite  (p.  574), 
the  Yellowstone  (p.  479),  etc.,  the  traveller  is  still  dependent  on  this 
mode  of  conveyance.  The  roads  are  generally  so  bad,  that  the 
delights  of  coaching  as  known  in  England  are  for  the  most  part 
conspicuously  absent.  The  speed  seldom  exceeds  6 M.  an  hour  and 
is  sometimes  less  than  this.  The  fares  are  relatively  high. 

Carriages.  Carriage-hire  is  very  high  in  the  United  States  ir 
spite  of  the  fact  that  both  the  price  of  horses  and  their  keep  are 
usually  lower  than  in  England.  Fares  vary  so  much  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  give  any  general  approximation,  but  they  are  rarely  less 
than  twice  as  high  as  in  Europe.  When  the  traveller  drives  himself 
in  a ‘buggy’  or  other  small  carriage,  the  rates  are  relatively  much  lower. 

Electric  Tramways.  The  enormous  increase  in  the  number  of 
Electric  Tramways,  Light  Railways,  or  ^Trolley  Lines’’  has  been  one 
of  the  most  striking  features  of  the  transportation  system  of  the 
United  States  in  the  past  few  years.  There  are  now  about  22,000  M. 
of  electric  track  and  60,000  cars,  employing  1,000,000  men  and 
carrying  5,000,000,000  passengers  yearly. 

Not  only  do  nearly  all  the  cities  of  the  United  States  possess  excellent 
systems  of  electric  tramways,  which  enable  the  tourist  to  visit  the  points 
of  interest,  urban  and  suburban,  at  a minimum  expenditure  of  time  and 
money;  but  the  network  of  lines  extends  all  over  the  country,  often  offering 
journey  of  100  M.  or  more  at  a very  moderate  cost.  It  is  (e.g.)  practicable 
to  go  from  one  end  of  New  England  to  the  other  in  a successive  series  of 
such  tramways ; and  this  way  of  travelling  offers  many  advantages  to  the 
tourist  who  wishes  to  become  as  intimately  acquainted  as  possible  with 
the  country  he  traverses.  Some  of  these  trolley -lines  attain  a speed  of 
15-20  M.  per  hour. 


IV.  Plan  of  Tour. 

The  plan  of  tour  must  depend  entirely  on  the  traveller’s  taste 
and  the  time  he  has  at  his  disposal.  It  is  manifestly  impossible  to 
cover  more  than  a limited  section  of  so  vast  a territory  in  an  ordinary 
travelling  season;  but  the  enormous  distances  are  practically  much 
diminished  by  the  comfortable  arrangements  for  travelling  at  night 
(comp.  p.  xx).  Among  the  grandest  natural  features  of  the  country. 


xxiv 


lY.  PLAN  OF  TOUR. 


one  or  other  of  which  should  certainly  be  visited  if  in  any  wise 
practicable,  are  Niagara  Falls  (R.  29),  the  Yellowstone  Park  (R.  84), 
the  Yosemite  Yalley  (R.  101),  Alaska  (R.  105),  and  the  Grand 
Canon  of  the  Colorado  (p.  522).  Along  with  these  may  be  mentioned 
the  canons,  mountains,  and  fantastic  rocks  of  Colorado  (RR.  92,  94), 
the  grand  isolated  snovz-covered  volcanic  cones  of  the  Pacific  coast 
(pp.  478,  505,  583,  etc.),  the  Mammoth  Cave  of  Kentucky  (p.  398), 
the  Cavern  of  Luray  (p.  429),  the  Natural  Bridge  of  Yirginia  (p.  430), 
and  the  Shoshone  Falls  (p.  504).  Among  the  most  easily  accessible 
regions  of  fine  scenery  are  the  Adirondacks  (R.  25),  the  White  Mts. 
(R.  16),  the  Catskills  (R.  24),  Mt.  Desert  (R.  11),  the  Hudson  (R.  21), 
and  the  Delaware  Water  Gap  (p.  243).  Visitors  to  the  S.,  besides 
the  climate  and  vegetation,  will  find  much  to  repay  them,  especially 
in  such  quaint  old  cities  as  New  Orleans  (R.  81).  California  (RR.  95- 
103)  abounds  in  objects  of  interest  and  beauty.  The  trip  into  Mexico 
(RR.  106-110)  is  well  worth  the  making.  Travellers  who  make  the 
trip  to  the  Pacific  Coast  and  back  will  do  well  so  to  plan  their  jour- 
ney as  to  include  the  wonderful  scenery  of  the  Denver  & Rio  Grande 
Railroad  (R.  94),  as  well  as  a trip  into  the  Yellowstone  Park,  while 
the  W.  part  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  between  Vancouver 
and  Banff  (about  600  M. ; see  Baedeker's  Canada),  offers  the  grandest 
railway  scenery  in  North  America.  Most  of  the  larger  cities  have 
their  own  special  points  of  interest,  and  a visit  to  the  national  capital 
(p.  309)  should  by  all  means  be  made. 

Where  the  territory  included  is  so  vast  and  the  possible  combina- 
tions of  tours  so  endless,  it  may  seem  almost  useless  to  attempt  to  draw 
up  any  specimen  tours.  The  following,  however,  though  not  intrinsically 
better  than  hundreds  of  others,  may  serve  to  give  the  traveller  some  idea 
of  the  distances  to  be  traversed  and  of  the  average  expenses  of  locomotion. 
It  is,  perhaps,  needless  to  say  that  the  traveller  will  enjoy  himself  better 
if  he  content  himself  with  a less  rapid  rate  of  progress  than  that  here 
indicated.  A daily  outlay  of  $10-12  will  probably  cover  all  the  regular 
travelling  expenses,  on  the  under-noted  tours  ^ and  this  rate  may  be  much 
diminished  by  longer  halts. 

a.  A Week  from  New  York. 

(Railway  Expenses  about  $40.)  Days 

New  York  to  Albany  by  steamer  (R.  21a) f 

Albany  to  Bu^alo  and  Niagara  Falls  (RR.  28,  29) 1^  /2 

Niagara  Falls  to  Toronto  (see  BaedekeFs  Canada) • • • 72 

Toronto  to  Montreal  by  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence  (R.  dU)  172 

Montreal  to  Boston  (RR.  15,  5) ^ 

Boston  to  New  York  (R.  4) ^ 

Visits  to  the  Catskills  (R.  24),  Adirondacks  (R.  25),  and  White  Mts.  (R.  16) 
may  easily  be  combined  with  the  above  tour.  Or  we  may  go  from  Moiit- 
real  to  Quebec  (see  Baedeker's  Canada ; V2  day)  and  thence  to  Portland  (RR.  14,  J) 
or  to  Boston  direct  (R.  15). 

b.  A Week  from  New  York. 

(With  use  of  night-trains  •,  fares  about  $ 50.) 

New  York  by  Fall  River  Line  to  Boston  (RR.  4e,  5)  ••••••**  , 

From  Boston  by  night-train  (13^/2  hrs.)  to  Buffalo  (RR.  4,  28)  . . . 72 

Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls  (RR.  28,  29) 72 


IV.  PLAN  OF  TOUE. 


XXV 


aight-train  (13  hrs.)  to  Chicago  (R.  46)  

Chic^o  to  Washington  and  at  Washington  (ER."  47g  '43') 

Washington  to  Philadelphia  and  at  Philadelphia  (RR.  42,  32)  ' ’ ' ' 7/ 

Philadelphia  to  New  York  (K.  31)  by  evening  train  1% 

c.  A Fortnight  from  New  York. 

(Railway  Fares  about  $ 60.) 

New  York  to  Niagara  Falls  as  above  (RR.  21,  28  29)  Qi/ 

Niagara  Falls  to  Chicago  (R.  46)  . . . z jz 

Chicago  (R.  48) q 

Chicago  to  Washington  and  at  Washington  TRR  45  *4.8) h 

Washington  to  Baltimore  (RR.  42,  41).  . ’ ^ 

Baltimore  to  Philadelphia  (R.  40) . • • • . 

Philadelphia,  and  back  to  New  York  (RR.  32,  31)  . . ’ ’ ‘ ' 2 “^ 

14  ^ 

d.  Three  Weeks  from  New  York. 

(Bail way  Fares  about  $ 120.) 

New  York  to  Chicago  as  above  (RR.  21,  23,  29,  46)  fii/ 

Chicago  to  St.  Louis  (RR.  55,  60)  . . Vi 

St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans  (RR.  63,  81).  . . 9'^ 

New  Orleans  to  Jacksonville  (RR.  80,  75)  9 

Jacksonville  to  St.  Augustine  (R.  76)  . . 7 

St.  Augustine  to  Richmond  (RR.  75a,  65)  am 

Richmond  to  Washington  (R.  65) 1/ 

Washington,  and  back  to  New  York  as  above  (RR.  43,*  42,  41,  32,  31)  W 

20  ^ 

e.  Six  Weeks  from  New  York. 

(Railway  Fares  $ 300-350.) 

New  York  to  Chicago  as  above  (RR.  21,  28,  29,  46)  Ri/ 

Chicago  to  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis  (RR.  50.  51)  

St.  Paul  to  Livingston  (R.  83).  . . . ' 

Yellowstone  Park  ...  

Livingston  to  Portland  (R.  83,  102)  *.  ’.  ! 9 

Portland  to  San  Francisco  (R.  102) .'.*!.*.’ ii/ 

San  Francisco,  with  excursions  to  Monterey.,  etc.  (RR  95  96)  * 5^^ 

San  Francisco  to  the  Yosemite  and  back  (RR  97.  101)’  ’ 1 • • • • 0 

San  Francisco  to  Salt  Lake  City  (RR.  87,  94)  . | 

Salt  Lake  City  io  Denver Marshall  Pass,  with* excursions  frim 
_ Coloi  ado  Springs  to  Manitou,  etc.  (RR.  94.  92)  mi 

Denver  to  NC  (RR.  90,  61)  ...  91^ 

St.  Louis  to  New  York  (R.  59) **’!.*.’!.*.*.***''  fi/g 

f.  Two  Months  from  New  York. 

(Railway  Fares  ? 350-400.) 

To  S^  Francisco  as  above  (RR.  21,  28,  29,  46,  50,  51,  83,  84,  102  95  96)  24i/. 
San  Francisco  to  the  Yosemite  (RR.  97,  101)  . . ...  ’ 

losemite  to  Los  Angeles  {Pasadena,  etc.;  RR.  97.  98.  99) qi/ 

^^^'orand^Canonif-the 

wUh-excav=ion  to 

Colorado  Springs  to  Denver  (RR*.  93,’ 92a)  . * * - ? 

Excursions  from  Denver  (R.  92a) . o 

Denver  to  City  and  St.  Louis  (*R.‘  90)*  .'  .*  91/ 

St.  Louis  to  Cincinnati  (R.  58d) ...  T.r 

Cincinnati  to  Washington  (R.  57d)  . • • • . 1/2 

Washington,  and  thence  to  New  York  as  in  R.  b *(R*r]  43, *42,  *41,  40* 

’ ^ 6V2 

55 


xxvi 


V.  HOTELS. 


The  following  table  of  the  distances  from  New  York  of  a few  impor- 
tant points,  together  with  the  present  railway  fares  and  approximate 
duration  of  the  journey,  may  not  be  without  interest.  The  fares  are  for 
iirst-class,  ‘limited'  tickets,  but  do  not  include  sleeping-car  rates. 

San  Francisco:  distance  3300-3500  M.-,  fare  $ 69-92-,  time  of  transit  41/2- 
51/9  davs  — Chicago:  912-1043  M.  ^ $17-20;  24-36  hrs.  — New  Orleans 
1370  M.:’$  31-34;  40-46  hrs.  — Jacksonville  (Florida): 

25-36  hrs.  — Cincinnati:  760  M.;  $15-18;  22-;^h^.  — 'SLLoms:  1060-1170 M. 

% 21-27  - 30-3S  hrs.  — St.  Paul:  1330  M. ; $ 28-32  ; 37  hrs.  — Denver:  IHO 
2130 M • $ 46-49;  days.  — Kansas  City:  1335-1510 M.;  $ 29-32;  40-48 hrs 
- Montreal:  380-450  M.;  $ 10.65; 

2-2V2  hrs.  — Washington:  228  M. ; $ l^rs-  — J5os«ow.-  215-230  M. 

$5;  5-6  hrs.  - Richmond:  345  M. ; $ 8-10;  10i|2-l2 

2475-2850  M.;  $ 58-62;  3-4  days.  — Los  Angeles:  M.;  $7.-92 

41/2-5V2  days.  — Niagara  Falls:  460  M.;  $8-91/4;  9-12  hrs. 

Excursion  Agents.  Travellers  may  sometimes  find  it  advantageous 
to  avail  themselves  of  the  facilities  for  tours  in  the  United  States  offered  by 
the  Raymond  & Whitcomb  Co.  (303  Washington  St.,  Boston  and  25  Union  Sq., 
New  York)  and  Thomas  Cook  A:  Son  (261  and  1225  Broadway,  New  York) 
These  firms  have  agencies  in  all  the  most  frequented  resorts  throughout 
the  country.  The  Bavmond  & Whitcomb  Co.  arranges  for  a large  series 
of  excursions  in  special  vestibuled  trains,  under  the  care  of  one  of  its 
representatives,  which  relieves  the  inexperienced  ti^aveller  of  almost  all 
the  inconveniences  of  a journey  in  a strange  land.  The  arrangements  are 
made  so  as  to  afford  the  widest  possible  freedom  of  inovement  every 
way,  and  the  charges  are  reasonable.  For  the  Eaymond  trip  into  Mexico, 
see  p.  608.  — Most  of  the  railway- companies  issue  tickets  for  circu]a,r  tours 
on  favourable  conditions,  and  some  of  them  (such  as  the  Pennsylvania  R.R. 
and  the  Burlington  Route)  also  arrange  personally  conducted  excursions  in 
special  trains.  , , « ^ n „ 

The  Pedestrian  is  unquestionably  the  most  independent 
bu(  except  in  a few  districts  such  as  the  Aairondacks  (p.  209)  and  the 
White  Mts.  (p.  158),  walking  tours  are  not  much  in  vogue  m the  Halted 
States  where,  indeed,  the  extremes  of  temperature  and  the  scarcity  o 
well-marked  footpaths  often  offer  considerable  obstacles.  For  a short 
tour  a couple  of  flannel  shirts,  a pair  of  worsted 

'^rticles  of  the  toilet,  a light  waterproof,  and  a stout  umbrella  will  gen- 
erally be  found  a sufficient  equipment.  Strong  and  weB-tried  boots  are 
essential  to  comfort.  Heavy  and  complicated 

a lieht  pouch  or  game-bag  is  far  less  irksome  , and  its  position  may  be 
shifted  L pleasurl.  A niore  extensive  reserve  of  clothing  should  not 
exceed  the  Umits  of  a small  portmanteau,  which  may  be  forwarded  fiom 
town  to  town  by  express. 


V.  Hotels  and  Kestaurants. 

Hotels.  The  quality  of  the  hotels  of  the  United  States  (said  to  be 
44  000  in  number)  varies  very  greatly  in  different  localities  ; hut  it 
is,  perhaps,  safe  to  say  that  the  hest  American  houses  will  he  found 
fully  as  comfortable  as.  the  first-class  hotels  of  Europe  by 
can  accommodate  themselves  to  the  manners  of  the  country  and  do 
not  demand  everything  precisely  as  they  have  been  used  to  it  at 
home.  The  luxury  of  some  of  the  leading  American  hotels  is, 
seldom  paralleled  in  Europe.  The  charges  are  little,  if  at  all,  higher 
than  those  of  the  best  European  houses;  but  the  comforts  often 
afforded  by  the  smaller  and  less  pretentious  inns  of  the  old  country 
can  seldom  be  looked  for  from  American  houses  of  the  second  or  third 
class,  and  the  traveller  vyho  wishes  to  economize  will  find  boarding- 


V.  HOTELS. 


xxYil 


houses  (see  p.  xxviii)  preferable.  When  ladies  are  of  the  party,  it  is 
advisable  to  frequent  the  best  hotels  only.  The  hotels  of  the  South, 
except  where  built  and  managed  by  Northern  enterprize,  are  apt  to 
be  poor  and  (in  proportion  to  their  accommodation)  dearj  many  of 
the  hotels  in  the  West,  on  the  other  hand,  even  in  the  newest  cities, 
are  astonishingly  good,  and  California  contains  some  of  the  best  and 
cheapest  hotels  in  the  United  States.  The  food  is  generally  abundant 
and  of  good  quality,  though  the  cuisine  is  unequal  (comp.  p.  xxviii). 
Beds  are  almost  uniformly  excellent.  The  quality  of  the  service 
varies.  Rooms  adjoining  the  elevator  or  overlooking  streets  with 
tramway-lines  should  be  avoided.  It  should  not  be  overlooked  that 
many  of  the  largest  and  best  hotels  at  both  summer  - resorts  and 
winter-resorts  are  not  open  except  in  the  regular  season. 

A distinction  is  made  between  Hotels  on  the  Ame)  iccbn  Plany  in  wUic 
a fixed  charge  is  made  per  day  for  board  and  lodging,  and  Hotels  on  the 
European  Plan , in  which  a fixed  charge  is  made  for  rooms  only,  while 
meals  are  taken  d la  carte  either  in  the  hotel  or  elsewhere.  No  separate 
charge  is  made  for  service.  The  European  system  is  becoming  more  and 
more  common  in  the  larger  cities,  especially  in  the  East;  but  the  American 
plan  is  universal  in  the  smaller  towns  and  country-districts.  Many  hotels 
in  the  large  cities  offer  a choice  of  systems.  The  rate  of  hotels  on  the 
American  plan  varies  from  about  $5  per  day  in  the  best  houses  down  to 
per  day  or  even  less  in  the  smaller  towns;  and  $3-4  a day  will 
probably  be  found  about  the  average  rate  on  an  ordinary  tour.  The 
charge  for  a room  at  a good  hotel  on  the  European  plan  is  from  $ 1 
upwards.  Many  of  the  American  hotels  vary  their  rate  according  to  the 
room,  and  where  two  prices  are  mentioned  in  the  Handbook  the  traveller 
should  indicate  the  rate  he  wishes  to  pay.  Most  of  the  objections  to  rooms 
upper  floor  are  obviated  by  the  excellent  service  of  ‘elevators’ 
(lifts).  Very  large  reductions  are  made  by  the  week  or  for  two  persons 
occupying  the  saine  room;  and  very  much  higher  prices  may  be  paid  for 
extra  accommodation.  Throughout  the  Handbook  the  insertion  of  a price 
after  the  name  of  a hotel  ($5)  means  its  rate  on  the  American  plan; 
where  the  hotel  is  on  the  European  plan  (exclusively  or  alternatively)  the 
room  is  indicated  (R.  from  $ 1).  The  above  rates  include 
all  the  Ordinary  requirements  of  hotel-life,  and  no  ‘extras’  appear  in  the 
bill.  The  custom  of  giving  fees  to  the  servants  is  by  no  means  so  general 
as  in  Europe,  though  it  is  becoming  more  common  in  the  Eastern  States, 
hven  there,  however,  it  is  practically  confined  to  a small  gratuity  to  the 
porter  and,  if  the  stay  is  prolonged,  an  occasional  ‘refresher’  to  the  regular 
waiter.  In  hotels  on  the  American  system  the  meals  are  usually  served 
at  regular  hours  (a  latitude  of  about  2 hrs.  being  allowed  for  each).  The 
daily  charge  is  considered  as  made  up  of  four  items  (room,  breakfast, 
mnner,  and  supper),  and  the  visitor  should  see  that  his  bill  begins  with 
the  first  meal  he  takes.  Thus,  at  a $ 4 a day  house,  if  the  traveller  arrives 
sapper  and  leaves  after  breakfast  the  next  day,  his  bill  will  be 
AT  after  supper  and  leaves  at  the  same  time,  $2;  and  so 

on.  allowance  is  made  for  absence  from  meals.  Dinner  is  usually 
served  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  except  in  large  cities. 

On  reaching  the  hotel,  the  traveller  enters  the  Office^  a large  and  often 
comiortably  fitted-up  apartment,  used  as  a general  rendezvous  and  smok- 
ing-room, not  only  by  the  hotel-guests,  but  often  also  by  local  residents. 

j desk  of  the  Hotel  Clerk^  who  keeps  the  keys  of 

the  bedrooms,  supplies  unlimited  letter-paper  gratis,  and  is  supposed  to 
be  more  or  less  oinniscient  on  all  points  on  which  the  traveller  is  likely 
to  require  information.  Here  the  visitor  enters  his  name  in  the  ‘register’ 
Kept  tor  the  purpose,  and  has  his  room  assigned  to  him  by  the  clerk,  who 
details  a bell-boy’  to  show  him  the  way  to  his  room  and  carry  up  his 


xxviii 


Y.  restaurants. 


hand-baggage.  If  he  has  not  already  disposed  of  his 

the  way  described  at  p.  xxii,  he  should  now  give  them  to  the  ^^d 

ask  to  have  his  trunks  fetched  from  the  station  and  sent  up  to  his  room 
If  he  has  already  parted  with  his  checks,  he  identifies  his  ^ ^ 

hall  when  it  arrives  and  tells  the  head-porter  w^^t^oom  he  wishes  it 
sent  to.  On  entering  the  dining-room  the  visitor  is  shown  tu  his  seat  by 
the  head-waiter,  instead  of  selecting  the  first  vacant  seat  ^ 

fancy.  The  table-waiter  then  hands  the  guest  the  naenu  of  the  day,  from 
which  (in  hotels  on  the  American  plan)  he  orders  what  he  chooses,  ^any 
Americans  order  the  whole  of  their  meals  at  once,  but  this  is  by  no 
means  necessary  except  in  primitive  localities  or  inferior  note  s. 
key  of  the  bedroom  should  always  be  left  at  the  office  when  the 
visitor  goes  out.  Guests  do  not  leave  their  boots  at  the  bedroom  door 
to  be  blacked  as  in  Europe  (except  m the  first-class  houses),  but  will  bn 

a ‘boot-black’  in  the  toilette-room  (fee  10  c. ; elsewhere  5 c.) 

ican  hotels  also  generally  contain  a barber  s shop  (shave  20-25  c.*,  elsewhere 
10-15  c.),  railway-ticket,  express,  telegraph,  texephone,  messenger-service 
type-writing,  theatrical,  and  livery  offices,  book-stalls,  etc.  In  many  h g 
hotels  all  telegrams  coming  for  guests  before  their  ^ ^ 

box  on  the  hotel-clerk’s  counter,  and  each  guest  is  expected  to  look  through 

following  hints  may  be  useful  to  hotel-keepers  who  wish 
the  tastes  of  European  visitors.  The  wash-basins  in  the  bedrooms  should 
be  much  larger  than  is  generally  the  case.  Two  or 

are  preferable  to  the  half-dozen  small  ones  usually  P/^vided  A carafe 
or  lug  of  fresh  drinking  water  (not  necessarily  iced)  and  a tumbler  should 
al wa/s  be  kept  in  each  bedroom.  If  it  were  possible  to  give  baths  more 
easily  and  cheaply,  it  would  be  a great  boon  to  English  visitors. 
fortunately,  more  usual  than  of  yore  for  the  price  of  a bedroom  to  include 
access  to  a general  bathroom^  but  those  who  wish  a private  bath  m o 
attached  to  their  bedroom  must  still  pay  $1  Us.)  a day  extra. 
can  be  considered  first-class  or  receive  an  asterisk  ot  commendatio 
refuses  to  supply  food  to  travellers  who  are  prevented  from  appearing  at 

the  regular  meal-hours.  ^ a ir. 

The  Hotel  Bed  Book,  which  may  be  seen  on  all  Pullman  cars  and  in 
most  large  hotels  and  steamers,  is  a yearly  publication  purporting  to  gi  e 
a list  of  all  the  chief  hotels  in  the  United  States,  arranged  by  States. 

Boarding  Houses.  For  a stay  of  more  than  a day  or  two  the 
visitor  will  sometimes  find  it  convenient  and  more  economical  to 
live  at  a Boarding  House.  These  abound  everywhere  and  can  easily 
he  found  on  enquiry.  Their  rates  vary  from  about  $ 8 a week 
upwards.  At  many  places  the  keepers  of  such  houses  also  receive 
transient  guests,  and  they  are  generally  preferable  to  inferior  hoj;els. 
— Furnished  Booms  are  easily  procured  in  the  larger  cities,  irom 
$ 3-4  a week  upwards  (comp.  p.  11).  Soap,  curiously  enough,  thoug 
provided  in  hotels,  is  not  provided  in  hoarding-houses  or  lodgings. 

Restaurants.  In  New. York  and  other  large  cities  the  traveller 
will  find  many  excellent  restaurants,  hut  in  other  places  he  will  do 
well  to  take  bis  meals  at  his  hotel  or  hoarding-house.  Restaumnts 
are  attached  to  all  hotels  on  the  European  plan  (p.  xxvii).  A single 
traveller  will  generally  find  the  d la  carte  restaurants  rather  expen- 
sive, hut  one  portion  will  usually  he  found  enough  for  two  gue^s 
and  two  portions  ample  for  three.  The  table  d'hdte  restaurants,  on  the 
other  hand,  often  give  excellent  value  for  their  charges  (comp.  p.  11). 

Soup,  fish,  poultry,  game,  and  sweet  dishes  are  generally  good  ^ but  tne 
beef  and  mutton  are  often  inferior  to  those  of  England.  Oysters,  ser\e 


VI.  POST  AND  TELEGRAPH  OFFICES. 


xxix 


in  a great  variety  of  styles,  are  large,  plentiful,  and  comparatively  cheap. 
In  America  wine  or  beer  is  much  less  frequently  drunk  at  meals  than 
in  Europe,  and  the  visitor  is  not  expected  to  order  liquor  ‘for  the  good 
of  the  house’.  Iced  water  is  the  universal  beverage,  and  a cup  of  tea  or 
coffee  is  included  in  all  meals  at  a fixed  price.  Wine  is  generally  poor 
or  dear,  and  often  both.  It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that,  outside  of  Cali- 
fornia, the  native  vintages,  which  are  often  superior  to  the  cheap  imported 
wines,  seldom  appear  on  the  wine-list;  and  travellers  will  do  good  service 
by  making  a point  of  demanding  Californian  wines  and  expressing  surprise 
when  they  cannot  be  furnished.  Liquors  of  all  kinds  are  sold  at  Saloons 
(public  houses)  and  Hotel  Bars  (comp.  p.  12).  Restaurants  which  solicit 
the  patronage  of  ‘gents’  should  be  avoided.  The  meals  on  dining-cars 
and  ‘buffet  cars’  are  generally  preferable  to  those  at  railway-restaurants. 
Tipping  the  waiter  is,  perhaps,  not  so  general  as  in  Europe,  hut  is  usually 
found  serviceable  where  several  meals  are  taken  at  the  same  place.  Cafes 
in  the  European  sense,  are  seldom  found  in  the  United  States  except  in 
New  Orleans  (p.  461)  and  a few  other  cities  with  a large  French  or  German 
element  in  the  population.  The  name,  however,  is  constantly  used  as  the 
equivalent  of  restaurant  and  is  sometimes  applied  to  first-class  bar-rooms. 


VI.  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices. 

Post  Office.  The  regulations  of  the  American  postal  service  are 
essentially  similar  to  those  of  Great  Britain,  though  the  practice  of 
delivering  letters  at  the  houses  of  the  addressees  has  not  been  system- 
atically extended  to  the  rural  districts.  The  service  is,  perhaps,  not 
quite  so  prompt  and  accurate.  The  supply  of  letter-boxes  is  gen- 
erally abundant,  but  the  number  of  fully  equipped  post-offices  is 
much  lower  (proportionately)  than  in  England.  Stamps  are  sold  at 
all  drug-stores  and  hotels,  and  often  by  letter-carriers. 

All  ‘mailable’  matter  for  transmission  within  the  United  States  and  to 
Canada  and  Mexico  is  divided  into  four  classes : 1st.  Letters  and  all 
Sealed  Packets  (rate  of  postage  2 c.  per  oz.  or  fraction  thereof);  2na.  News- 
papers  and  Periodicals  (1  c.  per  4 oz.);  3rd.  Books,  etc.  (1  c.  per  2oz.); 
4th.  jy^rchandise  and  Samples  (1  c.  per  oz.).  Postal  cards  1 c. ; reply  postal 
cards  2 c.  A special  delivery  stamp’  (10  c.)  affixed  to  a letter,  in  addition 
to  the  ordinary  postage,  entitles  it  to  immediate  delivery  by  special  mes- 
senger within  certain  limits.  Letters  to  countries  in  the  Postal  Union  cost 
0 c.  per  12  oz.,  postal  cards  2 c.,  reply  postal  cards  4 c.,  books  and  news- 
papers 1 c.  p^  2 oz.  The  Begistration  Fee  is  8 c. ; the  stamp  must  be  affixed 
to  the  letter  before  pre  sentation  for  registration,  and  the  name  and  address 
of  the  sender  must  be  w^ritten  on  the  envelope.  Undeliverable  letters  will 
be  returned  free  to  the  sender,  if  a request  to  that  effect  be  written  or  printed 
on  the  envelope. 

Domestic  ^ioney  Orders  are  issued  by  money-order  post-offices  for  any 
amount  up  to  $100,  at  the  following  rates:  for  sums  not  exceeding  $21/2, 
IH**’  ^‘=•5  Slp-20,  10c.;  $20.30,  12c.;  $30-40,  15c.; 
ciO-50,  18  c.;  $50-60,  c. ; $60-75  , 25  c.;  $75-100  , 30  c.  For  strangers 
tliese  are  not  so  convenient  as  the  money-orders  of  the  Express  Companies 
(comp,  p xvii),  as  identification  of  the  payee  is  demanded,  unless  this  is 
specifically  waived  by  the  remitter.  — Foreign  Money  Orders  cost  10  c.  for 
each  $10. 


Telegraph  Offices.  The  telegraplis  of  the  United  States  are 
mainly  in  the  hands  of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Co.,  with  its 
headquarters  in  New  York  (p.  18),  and  the  service  is  neither  so 
cheap  nor  so  prompt  and  trustworthy  as  that  of  Great  Britain.  At  the 
beginning  ^of  1904  this  company  owned  196,517  M.  of  line  and 
1,089,212  M.  of  Wire,  while  the  number  of  despatches  sent  by  it  iii 


XXX 


VII.  GLOSSARY. 


1903  was  69,790,866.  Tke  Postal  Telegraph  Cable  Co.  lias  50,000  M. 
of  line  and  280,000  M.  of  wire  and  sends  aliout  22,000,000  messages 
annually.  The  rates  from  New  York  are  given  at  p.  18,  and  from 
these  may  be  roughly  estimated  the  probable  rates  from  other  parts  of 
the  country.  — In  1903  the  United  States  contained  about  2,500,000  M. 
of  Telephone  Wires,  with  3,150,000  telephones  (comp.p.  18).  Tele- 
phones are  in  operation  in  all  large,  and  many  of  the  small,  towns 
throughout  the  country.  The  total  annual  number  of  telephone  mess- 
ages is  over  3,000,000,000,  as  compared  with  725,000,000  in  the 
British  Isles  and  766,000,000  in  Germany. 


VII.  Glossary. 


The  following  short  list  of  words  in  frequent  use  in  the  United 
States  in  a sense  not  commonly  known  in  England  may  be  found  of 
service.  The  speech  of  the  cultivated  American,  of  course,  varies 
little^from  the  speech  of  the  cultivated  Englishman,  and  no  mis- 
understanding is  likely  to  arise  in  their  verbal  intercourse ; but  it 
will  not  unfrequently  be  found  that  railway-officials,  cabmen,  waiters, 
and  the  like  do  not  know  what  is  meant  by  the  British  equivalents 
of  the  following  expressions.  It  must  not  be  understood  that  the 
under-noted  words  are  all  in  use  throughout  the  whole  of  the  United 
States.  A New  Englander,  for  instance,  may  tell  you  that  ‘he  never 
heard  such  a word’,  when  you  use  a term  in  regular  use  by  all 
classes  in  the  West  or  South.  The  list,  which  might  be  extended 
indefinitely,  does  not  attempt  to  enumerate  the  local  names  for  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  food,  implements,  etc.  ; nor  does  it  mean  to  include 
words  that  are  solely  and  avowedly  ‘slang’.  Purely  technical  terms 
are  also  avoided.  Comp.  p.  xxii  (railway  terms),  p.  xxvii,  etc. 


Bed-spread,  coverlet,  counterpane. 

Biscuit,  liot  tea-rolls. 

Bit  (California  and  the  South),  12V2  c. 
(two  bits  25  c.,  eight  bits  $ 1).* 

Blind,  shutter. 

Block,  rectangular  mass  of  building 
hounded  by  four  streets. 

Boots,  used  only  of  boots  coming  up 
wholly  or  nearly  to  the  knee.  Comp. 
Shoes  and  Ties. 

5o5s, master, head,  person  in  authority . 

Bowl,  basin  {Set  Bowl,  fixed-in  basin). 

Bright,  clever. 

Broncho,  native  (Western)  horse. 

Bug,  beetle,  insect  of  almost  any 
kind. 

Bureau,  chest  of  drawers. 

Burro  (California  and  the  vSouth 
West),  donkey. 

Calico,  printed  cotton  cloth. 

Carom,  cannon  (at  billiards). 

Chore,  odd  job  about  a house  done 
by  a man. 

Chowder,  a kind  of  thick  fish  soup. 


City,  corporate  town  or  municipal 
borough. 

Clerk,  shopman. 

Clever,  good-natured. 

Corn,  Maize  or  Indian  corn. 

Cowhoy,  cattle  herdsman. 

Cracker,  biscuit;  also,  in  the  Southern 
States,  a poor  white  man. 

Creek  (often  pron.  crick),  a small 
stream. 

Cunning,  neat,  pretty,  tiny  (mainly 
of  children  or  small  pet  animals). 
Cute  is  often  used  in  much  the  same 
sense. 

Cuspidor,  spittoon. 

Cutter,  light,  one-horse  sleigh. 

Deck,  pack  of  cards  (used  by  Shak- 
speare). 

Dirt,  earth,  soil  {e.g.,  a ‘dirt  tennis- 
court’). 

Drummer,  commercial  traveller. 

Dry  Goods,  dress  materials,  drap- 
ery, etc. 

Dumb,  (often)  stupid  (Ger.  dummi). 


VIII.  GENERAL  HINTS. 


xxxi 


Fleshy^  stont. 

Floor-walker,^  shop-walker. 

Grip  or  Grip-mck,^  hand-hag. 

Elevator,,  lift. 

Fall,,  autumn. 

Fix,,  to  arrange,  make,  put  in  order, 
settle,  see  to,  etc. 

Gums,,  overshoes  (see  Rubbers). 

Gun,,  to  go  shooting. 

Hack,,  cab ; hackman,  cabman. 

Help,  servant. 

High  Ball,  whiskey  and  soda. 

Hitch  up,io  harness ; hitching -post, po&i 
to  tie  horses  to. 

Horse  Car,  tramway-car. 

Hunt,  to  go  shooting. 

Lines,  reins. 

Lot,  a piece  or  division  of  land  in  a 
city. 

Lovely,  loveable. 

Lumber,  wood,  timber.  (‘Timber’  in 
American  usage  means  the  heavy 
logs,  while  ‘lumber’  is  a more 
general  term.) 

Lunch,  a slight  meal  at  any  hour  of 
the  day. 

Mad,  vexed,  cross. 

Mail,  to  post;  postal  matter;  postal 
service. 

Mucilage,  liquid  gum. 

Muslin,  cotton  cloth. 

Nasty,  disgusting  (not  used  before 
‘ears  polite’). 

Notions,  small  wares. 

Observatory,  (often)  belvedere  or 
view-tower  (Ger.  Aussichisturm), 

Parlor,  drawing-room. 

Piazza,  veranda. 

Pie,  tart  or  pie. 

Pitcher,  jug. 

Prince  Albert  (coat),  frock-coat. 

Rapid  Transit,  a general  name  for 
elevated  railroads  and  similar 
means  of  rapid  city  and  suburban 
locomotion. 

Recitation,  lesson,  college  lecture. 

In  the  United  States  First  Floor  i 

Floor,  while  Second  Floor  correspond 

on.  Throughout  the  Handbook  these 

the  English  custom. 


Ride,  applied  to  any  mode  of  convey- 
ance (horse,  carriage,  boat,  etc.). 

Right  away,  directly. 

AocA:, stone  of  any  size;  to  throw  stones. 

Rooster,  cock. 

Rttbbers,  galoshes,  overshoes. 

Run,  to  manage,  carry  on  (a  busi- 
ness, etc.). 

Sack,  Sacque,  jacket. 

Safe,  larder  (meat-safe,  etc.). 

Shine,  to  black  or  polish  (boots). 

Ship,  to  send  goods  by  train  as  well 
by  sea. 

Shoes,  often  used  for  boots  not  coming 
above  the  top  of  the  ancle. 

Shortage,  deficiency. 

Sick,  ill. 

Sophomore,  student  in  his  second  year 
at  college.  Students  of  the  first, 
third,  and  fourth  years  are  named 
Freshmen,  Juniors,  and  Seniors. 

Span,  pair  of  horses. 

Spool  (of  cotton),  reel  (of  thread). 

Stage,  coacb,  omnibus. 

Store,  shop. 

Street  Car,  tramway-car. 

Take  out.  An  American  takes  a lady 
‘out’  to  dinner,  while  an  English- 
man takes  her  ‘in’. 

Team,  often  applied  to  one  horse. 

Telegraph  Blank,  telegraph  form. 

Ties,  low  shoes ; railway  sleepers. 

Town,  township  or  parish  (thus  one 
hears  of  the  highest  mountain  or 
the  best  crop  in  the  town). 

Track,  railway-line. 

Trolley,  electric  tramway  with  over- 
head wire. 

Tuxedo,  dinner-jacket. 

Ugly,  ill-tempered,  malicious. 

Under-waist,  bodice. 

Wagon,  carriage. 

Waist,  body  (of  a dress). 

Wait  on  (table),  wait  at. 

Wilt,  fade,  wither. 

Window-shade,  blind. 

J usually  synonymous  with  Ground 

5 to  the  English  First  Floor,  and  so 

terms  are  used  in  conformity  with 


VIII.  General  Hints. 

The  first  requisites  for  the  enjoyment  of  a tour  in  the  United 
States  are  an  absence  of  prejudice  and  a willingness  to  accommodate 
oneself  to  the  customs  of  the  country.  If  the  traveller  exercise  a 
little  patience,  he  will  often  find  that  ways  which  strike  him  as  un- 
reasonable or  even  disagreeable  are  more  suitable  to  the  environ- 
ment than  those  of  his  own  home  would  he.  He  should  from 
the  outset  reconcile  himself  to  the  absence  of  deference  or  servility 


xxxii 


VIII,  GENERAL  HINTS. 


on  the  part  of  those  he  considers  his  social  inferiors ; hut  if  ready 
himself  to  he  courteous  on  a footing  of  equality  he  will  seldom  meet 
any  real  impoliteness.  In  a great  many  ways  travelling  in  the 
United  States  is,  to  one  who  understands  it,  more  comfortable  than 
in  Europe.  The  average  Englishman  will  probably  find  the  chief 
physical  discomforts  in  the  dirt  of  the  city  streets,  the  roughness  of 
the  country  roads,  the  winter  overheating  of  hotels  and  railway-cars 
r70-80®  Fahr.  being  by  no  means  unusual),  the  dust,  flies,  and  mos- 
quitoes of  summer,  and  (in  many  places)  the  habit  of  spitting  on 
the  floor-  but  the  Americans  themselves  are  now  keenly  alive  to 
these  weak  points  and  are  doing  their  best  to  remove  them. 

Throiiffliout  almost  the  whole  country  travelling  is  now  as  safe  as  in 
the  most  dvilized  parts  of  Europe,  and  the  carrying  of  arms,  which  indeed 
is  forbidden  in  many  States,  is  as  unnecessary  here  as  there.  In  inany 
of  the  western  towns,  however,  it  is  advisable  to  avoid  the 
nuarters  and  to  refrain  from  entering  any  shops,  barber  s rooms,  or  the 
Uke  excent  those  undeniably  of  the  best  class.  Those  who  contemplate 
excurS  inm  di^  remote  from  the  highways  of  travel  should  take 

local  advice  as  to  their  equipment.  — The  social  forins  of  Ainerica  are, 
ir  thS-  Lsentials,  similar  to  those  of  England^  and  the  visitor  will 
do  well  to  disabuse  himself  of  the  idea  that  laxHy  in  their  observance 
win  be  less  obiectionable  in  the  one  country  than  in  the  othei.  He 
will  ^of  course,^  find  various  minor  differences  in  different 
country  but  good  manners  will  nowhere  be  at  a discount.  No  lim 
is  place’d  on  the  number  of  passengers  admitted  to  public  I 

and  Straus  are  provided  in  the  cars  of  tramways  and  elevated  railways 
to  enabirtbose  who  cannot  obtain  seats  to  maintain 

_ The  prices  of  many  manufactured  goods  are  much  higher  in  the 
TTnited  Spates  than  in  Europe*,  and  the  traveller  should  therefore  come 
provided  with  Tn  Liple  supply  of  all  the  articles  of  personal  nse  he  or 
she  is  likely  to  require,  down  to  such  small  items  as  pins  and  needles, 
tapes  and  ribbons,  dress  ties  and  gloves,  toilette  requisites,  buttons , and 
matchertoften  very  poor  in  America).  An  important  exception  to  the 
Tbole  rule  ^ fioots'knd  shoes,  which  ^^'e^xceUently  ^ ^CoUon  ."oods 

should  be  rather  thinner  in  texture  than  is  ^sual  m 
wrans  for  outdoor  use  require  to  be  much  thicker.  The  thick  w 
ffowns  that  English  ladies  wear  in  winter  would  be  uncomfortably  warm 
fni:he  ordlna?!  winter  temperature  of  American  hotels  railw^ 

riages*,  and  a thin  soft  silk  will,  perhaps,  be  found  the 
travelling  dress  on  account  of  its  non  - absorption  of  dust,  overshoes 
r‘arctics’\nd  ‘rubbers’)  are  quite  necessary  in  winter  and  are  worn  almost 
Is  much  by  men  as  by  womL.  - Weddings  frequently  take  place  in  the 
ete^ng,  and  Le  maLged  by  a set  of  ‘ushers’  Con' 

e room’s  friends.  — The  rule  of  the  road  in  America  follows  the  Con- 
tinental,  not  the  English  system,  vehicles  passing  each  other  to  the  righh 
The  art  of  the  Barter  and  Hair-Drmer  has  been  developed  to  a high 
noint  in  the  United  States,  where  the  ‘tonsorial  saloons  aie  often  very 
Lxurions  Th^prlces,  L’wever,  are  high  (10-26  c.  for  a '““g 

hair-hrushing  and  the  application  of  essences  ; hair-cntting  25-35  c.,  -ham- 

XJX  Si*  “K  's  S jss 

Illations.  Such  public  conveniences  as  do  exist  in  hew  Toih  and  otner 
large  cities  are  disgracefully  inadequate  in  niimher,  sise,  ®ir'P“entj 
Drinking  Water  of  some  of  the  cities  in  ‘^e  United  States  is  not  1 
that  it  ought  to  be,  and  it  is  often  advisable  to  make  enquiries  on  this  poi  . 


IX.  HISTORY. 


xxxiii 


Public  Holidays.  The  only  holidays  observed  in  all  the  states  are 
Independence  Day  (July  4th)  and  Christmas  Day  (Dec.  25th).  New  Year’s 
Day  (Jan.  1st)  and  Washington’s  Birthday  (Feb.  22nd)  are  celebrated  in 
nearly  all  the  states.  Decoration  Day  (May  30th)  is  set  apart  in  the  N. 
and  W.  states  for  decorating  v/ith  flowers  the  graves  of  those  who  fell  in 
the  Civil  War;  and  some  of  the  S.  states  have  a Memorial  Day  for  the 
same  purpose.  Thanksgiving  Day  (last  Thurs.  in  Nov.)  is  observed  with 
practical  unanimity;  and  General  Election  Day  (Tues.  after  the  first  Mon. 
in  Nov.)  and  Labor  Day  (first  Mon.  in  Sept.)  are  each  celebrated  by  a large 
number  of  states.  In  addition  to  the  above,  some  states  have  special  holi- 
days of  their  own. 


IX.  A Short  History  of  American  Politics 

by 

John  Bach  McMaster, 

What  is  now  the  territory  of  the  United  States  has  been  derived 
from  six  European  nations.  Resting  on  the  discovery  by  Columbus, 
and  the  Bulls  of  the  Popes,  Spain  claimed  the  whole  Continent,  but 
has  been  in  actual  possession  only  of  the  Gulf  coast  from  Florida 
to  Texas,  and  of  the  interior  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific. 
The  Swedes  once  had  settlements  on  the  Delaware.  The  Dutch, 
following  up  the  voyage  of  Hudson  to  the  river  bearing  his  name,’ 
claimed  and  held  the  country  from  the  Delaware  to  the  Connecticut. 
The  French  discovered  the  St.  Lawrence  and  explored  and  held  mil- 
itary possession  of  the  valleys  of  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  and  the 
Great  Lakes.  The  English  by  virtue  of  the  voyages  of  the  Cabots 
claimed  the  Atlantic  coast  and  there  founded  the  colonies  which 
grew  into  the  thirteen  United  States.  Alaska  was  purchased  from 
Russia. 

In  the  course  of  the  struggle,  sometimes  peaceful,  often  bloody, 
by  which  the  rule  of  these  nations  has  been  thrown  off,  the  Dutch 
conquered  the  Swedes ; the  English  conquered  the  Dutch  and  the 
French ; the  United  States  expelled  the  English  and  in  time  by 
purchase  or  conquest  drove  out  the  Spaniards  and  the  Mexicans. 

The  first  serious  struggle  for  possession  occurred  in  the  middle 
of  the  18th  century,  when  the  English  moving  westward  met  the 
French  moving  eastward  at  the  sources  of  the  river  Ohio.  In  that 
struple  which  has  come  down  to  us  as  the  ‘French  and  Indian 
War’  France  was  worsted  and,  retiring  from  this  continent,  divided 
her  possessions  between  England  and  Spain.  To  England  she  gave 
Canada  and  the  islands  and  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and, 
entering  what  is  now  the  United  States,  drew  a line  down  the 
middle  of  the  Mississippi  River  and  gave  all  to  the  E.  of  that  line 
(save^  the  island  on  which  is  the  city  of  New  Orleans)  to  Great 
Britain,  and  all  to  the  W.  of  it  to  Spain  j Spain  at  the  same  time 
gave  Florida  to  England  as  the  price  of  Cuba. 

Having  thus  come  into  possession  of  all  the  country  to  the  E. 

River,  King  George  determined  to  send  out  an  army  of 
10,000  men  to  defend  the  colonies,  and  have  the  latter  bear  a part 

Baedekee’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  c 


Kxxiv  IX.  HISTORY. 

of  the  expense.  This  part  he  attempted  to  collect  by  duties  on  goods 
imported  and  hy  a Stamp  Tax  (1765)  on  legal  documents  and  printed 
matter.  No  tax  for  revenue  had  before  been  laid  on  America  by  act 
of  Parliament.  The  colonists  therefore  resisted  this  first  attempt  and 
raising  the  cry  ‘no  taxation  without  representation’  they  forced  Par- 
liament to  repeal  the  Stamp  Tax  in  1766.  The  right  to  tax  was  at 
the  same  time  distinctly  asserted,  and  in  1767  was  again  used,  and 
duties  laid  on  paints,  oils,  lead,  glass,  and  tea.  Once  more  the 
colonists  resisted  and,  by  refusing  to  import  any  goods,  wares,  or 
merchandise  of  English  make,  so  distressed  the  manufacturers  ot 
England  that  Parliament  repealed  every  tax  save  that  on  tea.  All 
the  tea  needed  in  America  was  now  smuggled  in  from  Holland.  The 
East  India  Company,  deprived  of  the  American  market,  became 
embarrassed,  and,  calling  on  Parliament  for  aid,  was  suffered  to 
export  tea,  a privilege  never  before  enjoyed.  Selecting  commis- 
sioners in  Boston,  New  York,  Philadelphia,  and  Charleston , cargoes 
of  tea  were  duly  consigned  to  them  j but  the  people  would  not  allow 
a pound  of  it  to  be  sold.  At  Boston  men  disguised  as  Indians 
boarded  the  tea  ships  and  threw  the  boxes  into  the  harbour  (p.  1U4J. 

As  a punishment  for  this.  Parliament  shut  the  port  of  Boston 
and  deprived  the  people  of  Massachusetts  of  many  functions  of  local 
government.  The  Assembly  of  Massachusetts  thereupon  called  for 
a General  Congress  to  meet  at  Philadelphia  on  Sept.  5th,  1774.  The 
colonies  gladly  responded  and  this  Congress,  having  issued  a 
Declaration  of  Rights  and  addresses  to  the  King,  to  Parliament, 
and  to  the  People  of  England,  adjourned  to  await  the  ^esuU.  The 
day  for  the  reassembling  of  Congress  was  May  10th,  1770;  but  be- 
fore that  day  came,  the  attempt  of  Gage  to  seize  military  stores 
brought  on  a fight  at  Lexington  (April  19th,  1775;  p.  147).  The 
fight  at  Lexington  was  followed  by  the  siege  of  the  British  in 
Boston,  by  the  formation  of  the  ‘Continental  Army’,  by  the  appoint- 
ment of  George  Washington  to  command  it,  by  the  battle  of  Bunker 
Hill  (June  17th,  1775 ; p.  115),  and  by  an  expedition  against  Quebec, 
which  came  to  naught,  on  the  last  day  of  the  year. 

General  William  Howe  meantime  had  succeeded  Gage  in  com- 
mand of  the  British  at  Boston,  and,  finding  himself  hard  pressed 
by  Washington,  evacuated  the  city  and  sailed  for  Halifax.  Believing 
New  York  was  to  be  attacked,  Washington  now  hurried  to  Long 
Island,  where  (August  27th,  1776;  p.  73)  Howe  defeated  him,  took 
possession  of  New  York , and  drove  him  first  up  the  Hudson  and 
then  southward  across  New  Jersey. 

Congress,  which  (July  4th,  1776)  had  declared  the  colonies  to  be 
free  and  independent  states,  now  fled  from  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore. 
But  Washington,  turning  in  his  retreat,  surprised  and  captured  the 
British  outpost  at  Trenton  (p.  258).  Cornwallis  instantly  hurried 
toward  that  town,  but  Washington,  passing  around  the  British  rear, 
attacked  and  captured  (at  Princeton,  Jan.  3rd,  1777;  p.  lOi)  a 


IX.  HISTORY. 


XXXV 


detachment  on  its  march  to  Trenton,  and  then  went  into  winter 
quarters  at  Morristown. 

With  the  return  of  spring  Howe,  finding  that  he  could  not 
reach  Philadelphia  hy  land  without  passing  in  front  of  the  Con- 
tinental Army  stretched  out  on  a strongly  intrenched  line  across 
New  Jersey,  went  by  sea.  Washington  met  him  at  Chadd’s  Ford  on 
the  Brandywine  (p.  300 j,  was  defeated,  and  on  Sept.  25th,  1777, 
Howe  entered  Philadelphia.  In  the  attempt  to  dislodge  him  Wash- 
ington fought  and  lost  the  battle  of  Germantown  (Oct.  4th , 1777 ; 
p.  275).  The  loss  of  Philadelphia  was  more  than  made  good  hy  the 
capture  of  Burgoyne  and  his  army  at  Saratoga  (Oct.  17th,  1777; 
p.  227),  while  on  his  way  from  Canada  to  New  York  City. 

The  fruits  of  this  victory  were  the  recognition  of  the  Independence 
of  the  United  States  by  France,  the  treaty  of  alliance  with  France 
(Feb.  8th,  1778),  and  the  evacuation  of  Philadelphia  by  Clinton^ 
who  had  succeeded  Howe.  Washington , who  had  spent  the  winter 
at  Valley  Forge  (p.  285),  instantly  followed,  and  overtaking  Clinton 
at  Monmouth  fought  and  won  the  battle  at  that  place  (June  29th, 
1778).  Clinton  escaped  to  New  York,  and  Washington,  drawing  his 
army  in  a circle  about  the  city  from  Morristown  on  the  S.  to  West 
Point  on  the  N.,  awaited  further  movements. 

Turning  towards  the  Southern  States,  the  British  commander  now 
despatched  an  expedition  which  took  Savannah  and  overran  the  State 
of  Georgia.  The  year  which  followed  (1779)  is  memorable  for  the 
capture  of  Stony  Point  by  Anthony  Wayne  (p.  188),  for  the  treason 
of  Benedict  Arnold  (pp.  188,  194),  for  the  execution  of  Major  John 
Andre  (p.  192),  for  the  capture  of  the  Serapis  by  Paul  Jones  after 
one  of  the  most  desperate  naval  battles  on  record,  and  by  the  failure 
of  an  attempt  by  the  Americans  to  retake  Savannah  (p.  440).  In 
1780  Clinton  led  an  expedition  from  New  York  to  Charleston,  took 
the  city,  swept  over  South  Carolina,  and,  leaving  Cornwallis  in  com- 
mand, hurried  back  to  New  York.  Oates,  who  now  attempted  to 
dislodge  the  British,  was  beaten.  Greene  now  succeeded  Gates,  and 
Morgan,  the  commander  of  his  light  troops,  won  the  battle  of  the 
Cowpens  (Jan.  17th,  1781;  p.  418).  This  victory  brought  up  Corn- 
wallis, who  chased  Greene  across  the  State  of  North  Carolina  to  Guil- 
ford Court  House  (p.  418),  where  Greene  was  beaten  and  Cornwallis 
forced  to  retreat  to  Wilmington.  Moving  southward,  Greene  was 
again  beaten  in  two  pitched  battles , but  forced  the  British  to 
withdraw  within  their  lines  at  Charleston  and  Savannah. 

Cornwallis  meantime  moved  from  Wilmington  into  Virginia  and 
took  possession  of  Yorktown.  And  now  Washington,  who  had  long 
been  watching  New  York,  again  took  the  offensive,  hurried  across 
New  Jersey  and  Pennsylvania,  and,  while  a French  fleet  closed  the 
Chesapeake  Bay,  he  besieged  Cornwallis  by  land,  till  (Oct.  19th, 
1781)  the  British  General  surrendered  (p.  412).  This  practically 
ended  the  war. 


c 


xxxvi 


IX.  HISTORY. 


The  Treaty  of  Peace,  in  1783,  actually  ended  it,  secured  the 
independence  of  the  United  States  and  fixed  her  boundaries,  roughly 
speaking,  as  the  Atlantic  Ocean  on  the  E.,  the  Mississippi  on  the 
W.,  New  Brunswick,  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  Great  Lakes  on  the 
N.j’and  the  parallel  of  31°  on  the  S. 

While  the  war  was  still  raging,  Congress  had  framed  an  instrument 
of  government,  which  the  States  ratified  and  put  in  force  on  Mar.  1st, 
1781.  This  instrument  of  government  which  bound  the  thirteen  States 
in  perpetual  union  was  known  as  the  Articles  of  Confederation, 
and  established  a government  as  bad  as  any  yet  devised  by  man. 
There  was  no  executive,  no  judiciary,  and  only  the  semblance  of 
a legislature.  The  Congress  consisted  of  not  more  than  seven  nor 
less  than  two  delegates  from  each  State  j sat  in  secret  session  j was 
presided  over  by  a President  elected  from  its  own  members ; and 
could  not  pass  any  law  unless  the  delegates  of  nine  states  assented. 
It  could  wage  war,  make  treaties,  and  borrow  money ; but  it  could 
not  lay  a tax  of  any  kind  whatsoever ; nor  regulate  commerce  be- 
tween the  States,  or  with  foreign  powers;  and  was  dependent 
entirely  on  the  liberality  of  the  States  for  revenue.  This  defect 
proved  fatal.  Inability  to  regulate  foreign  commerce  by  duties 
stripped  the  country  of  its  specie.  Lack  of  specie  forced  the  States 
to  issue  paper  money.  Paper  money  was  followed  by  tender  acts  and 
force  acts  and,  in  some  places,  by  a violent  stoppage  of  justice  by 
the  debtor  class.  A commercial  and  financial  crisis  followed  and 
the  people  of  the  States,  reduced  to  desperation,  gladly  acceded  to 
a call  for  a national  trade  convention  which  met  in  Philadelphia  in 
May,  1787.  The  instructions  of  the  delegates  bade  them  suggest 
amendments  to  the  Articles  of  Confederation.  But  the  convention, 
considering  the  Articles  too  bad  to  be  mended,  framed  the  Con- 
stitution which  the  people,  acting  through  conventions  in  the  vari- 
ous states,  ratified  during  1787  and  1788. 

On  Mar.  4th,  1789,  the  Constitution  became  the  ‘supreme  law 
of  the  land.’  In  the  first  congress  no  trace  of  party  lines  is  visible. 
But  the  work  of  establishing  government  had  not  gone  far  when 
differences  of  opinion  sprang  up  ; when  the  cry  of  partial  legislation 
was  raised,  and  the  people  all  over  the  country  began  to  divide 
into  two  great  parties,  — those  who  favoured  and  those  who  opposed 
a liberal  construction  of  the  language  of  the  Constitution  and  the 
establishment  of  a strong  national  government.  The  friends  of  na- 
tional government  took  the  name  of  Federalists,  and  under  the  lead 
of  Alexander  Hamilton  who,  as  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  marked 
out  the  financial  policy  of  the  administration,  they  funded  the  foreign 
and  domestic  debt  occasioned  by  the  war  for  independence,  as- 
sumed the  debts  incurred  by  the  States  in  that  struggle,  set  up  a 
national  bank  with  branches,  and  laid  a tax  on  distilled  liquors. 
Each  one  of  these  acts  was  met  with  violent  opposition  as  designed 
to  benefit  a class,  as  unconstitutional,  and  as  highly  detrimental 


IX.  HISTORY. 


xxxvii 


to  the  interests  of  the  South.  Against  the  Federalists  were  now 
brought  charges  of  a leaning  towards  monarchy  and  aristocracy. 
Great  Britain  it  was  said  has  a funded  debt,  a bank,  and  an  excise. 
These  things  are,  therefore,  monarchical  institutions.  But  the 
Federalists  have  introduced  them  into  the  United  States.  The  Fed- 
eralists, therefore,  are  aristocrats,  monarchists,  and  monopolists. 

Of  all  who  believed  these  charges , none  believed  them  more 
sincerely  than  Thomas  Jefferson,  Secretary  of  State.  Seeing  in  these 
acts  a wide  departure  from  the  true  principles  of  democracy,  he  set 
himself  to  work  to  organize  a party  of  opposition,  and  was  soon 
looked  up  to  as  the  recognized  leader  of  the  Federal  Republicans. 
Hardly  had  the  two  parties  thus  been  called  into  existence  by  dif- 
ference of  opinion  on  questions  of  home  affairs,  when  they  were 
parted  ?yet  more  widely,  and  the  dispute  between  them  intensely 
embittered  by  questions  of  foreign  affairs.  In  1793  the  French 
Republic  declared  war  against  England,  and  sent  a minister  to  the 
United  States.  As  the  United  States  was  bound  to  France  by  the 
Treaty  of  Alliance  and  by  a Treaty  of  Amity  and  Commerce,  and 
was  not  bound  to  Great  Britain  by  any  commercial  treaty  whatever, 
it  seemed  not  unlikely  that  she  would  be  dragged  unwillingly  into 
the  war.  But  Washington  with  the  advice  of  his  secretaries  pro- 
claimed neutrality,  and  from  that  time  every  Republican  was  the 
firm  friend  of  France  and  every  Federalist  the  ally  of  England. 
Then  began  a seven  years’  struggle  for  neutrality.  France  threw 
open  her  colonial  ports  to  neutral  commerce.  Great  Britain  assert- 
ing the  ‘Rule  of  the  War  of  1756’,  a rule  prescribing  that  no 
neutral  should  have,  in  time  of  war,  a trade  it  did  not  have  in 
peace,  declared  this  trade  was  contraband  and  seized  the  ships  of 
the  United  States  engaged  in  it.  The  Republicans  denounced  neu- 
trality and  attempted  to  force  a war.  The  Federalists  in  alarm  dis- 
patched John  Jay,  the  Chief  Justice,  to  London  with  offers  of  a 
commercial  treaty.  England  responded  and  on  Feb.  29th,  1796, 
the  first  treaty  of  Amity  and  Commerce  between  her  and  the  United 
States  became  law.  At  this  France  took  offence,  rejected  the  new  min- 
ister (C.  C.  Pinckney)  from  the  United  States,  and  drove  him  from 
her  soil;  suspended  the  treaties,  insulted  a special  commission  (sent 
out  in  the  interest  of  peace),  with  demands  for  bribes  and  tribute, 
and  brought  on  a quasi-war.  Never  since  the  days  of  Bunker  Hill 
had  the  country  been  so  stirred  as  this  act  of  the  French  Directory 
stirred  it  in  the  summer  of  1798.  Then  was  written  our  national 
song  ‘Hail  Columbia’.  Then  was  established  the  department  of  the 
Navy.  Then,  under  the  cry,  ‘Millions  for  defence;  not  a cent  for 
tribute’  , went  forth  that  gallant  little  fleet  which  humbled  the  tri- 
colour in  the  West  Indies  and  brought  France  to  her  senses. 

With  the  elevation  of  Napoleon  to  the  First  Consulship  came 
peace  in  1800.  In  that  same  year  the  Federalists  fell  from  power 
never  to  return.  Once  in  power,  the  Republicans  began  to  carry 


xxxviii 


IX.  HISTORY. 


out  the  principles  they  had  so  long  preached.  They  reduced  the 
National  debt;  they  repealed  the  internal  taxes.  They  sold  the 
Navy;  holdly  assaulted  the  Supreme  Court;  and  in  1811,  when  the 
Charter  of  the  National  Bank  expired,  refused  to  renew  it  Their 
doctrine  of  strict  construction,  however,  was  ruined,  when,  in 
1803  they  bought  the  Province  of  Louisiana  from  Prance  and  added 
to  the  public  domain  that  splendid  region  which  lies  between  the 
Mississippi  and  the  Rocky  Mountains.  At  that  moment  it  seemed 
as  if  the  people  were  about  to  enter  on  a career  of  unwonted  pros- 
perity. But  Napoleon  suddenly  made  war  on  England,  and  by 
1806  the  United  States  was  involved  in  a desperate  struggle  ot  nine 
years  both  with  France  and  England  for  commercial  independence 
Great  Britain  searched  our  ships,  impressed  our  sailors,  violated 
the  neutrality  of  our  ports,  and  by  the  decisions  of  her  admiralty 
courts  and  by  orders' in  council  sought  to  rum  our  neutral  com- 
merce with  Europe,  unless  carried  on  through  her  ports  and  under 
her  license.  Napoleon  attacked  us  with  his  decrees  of  Berlin  and 
Milan,  and  sought  to  ruin  our  neutral  commerce  with  England. 
The  United  States  retaliated  by  means  of  the  Embargo  and  Non- 
intercourse, and,  in  1812,  by  declared  war. 

With  the  cessation  of  hostilities  another  epoch  in  our  history 
begins.  From  the  day  when  Washington  proclaiined  neutrality  in 
1793  to  the  day  when  the  people  celebrated,  with  bonfires  and 
with  fireworks,  and  with  public  dinners,  the  return  of  peace  in 
1815  the  political  and  industrial  history  of  the  United  States  is 
deeply  affected  by  the  political  history  of  Europe.  It  was  quesUons 
of  foreign  policy,  not  of  domestic  policy  that  divided  the  two  parties, 
that  took  up  the  time  of  Congress,  that  raised  up  and  pulled  dovn 
politicians.  But  after  1815  foreign  affairs  sank  into  insignificance, 
and  for  the  next  thirty  years  the  history  of  the  United  States  is  the 
history  of  the  political  and  economic  development  of  the  country  to 
the  E.  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

The  opposition  which  the  Federalists  made  to  the  War  com- 
pleted their  ruin.  In  1816  fox  the  last  time  they  put  forward  a 
presidential  candidate,  carried  three  states  out  of  nineteen,  and 
expired  in  the  effort.  During  the  eight  years  of  Mcnroe  s adminis- 
tration (1817-25]  but  one  great  and  harmonious  party  ruined 
the  political  destinies  of  the  country.  This  remarkable  period  has 
come  down  to  us  in  history  as  the  ‘Era  of  good  feeling  . It  was 
indeed  such  an  era,  and  so  good  were  the  feelings  that  in  1820  when 
Monroe  was  re-elected  no  competitor  was  named  to  run  against  him. 
Every  State,  every  electoral  vote  save  one  was  his.  Even  that  one 
was  his.  But  the  elector  who  controlled  it,  threw  it  away  on  John 
Ouincy  Adams  lest  Monroe  should  have  the  unanimous  vote  of  the 
Presidential  electors,  an  honour  which  has  been  bestowed  on  no  man 

save  Washington.  x*  a 

In  the  midst  of  this  harmony,  however,  events  were  fast  ripen- 


IX.  HISTORY. 


XXXIX 


ing  for  a great  schism.  Under  the  protection  offered  by  the  com- 
mercial restrictions  which  began  with  the  Embargo  and  ended  with 
the  peace,  manufactures  had  sprung  up  and  flourished.  If  they 
were  to  continue  to  flourish  they  must  continue  to  be  protected,  and 
the  question  of  free  trade  and  protection  rose  for  the  first  time  into 
really  national  importance.  The  rush  of  population  into  the  West 
led  to  the  admission  of  Indiana  (1816),  Mississippi  (1817),  Illinois 
(1818),  Alabama  (1819),  and  Missouri  (1820)  into  the  Union,  and 
brought  up  for  serious  discussion  the  uses  to  be  made  of  public 
lands  lying  within  them.  The  steamboat,  which  had  been  adopted 
far  and  wide,  had  produced  a demand  for  some  improved  means  of 
communication  by  land  to  join  the  great  water  highways  of  the 
country  and  opened  the  era  of  internal  improvements.  The  appli- 
cation of  Missouri  for  admission  into  the  Union  brought  up  the 
question  of  the  admission  of  slavery  to  the  W.  of  the  Mississippi. 
A series  of  decisions  of  the  Supreme  Court,  setting  aside  acts  of  the 
State  legislatures,  gave  new  prominence  to  the  question  of  State  rights. 

The  Missouri  question  was  settled  by  the  famous  Compromise 
of  1820  (the  first  great  political  compromise)  which  drew  the  line 
36®  30'  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  100th  Meridian,  and  pledged 
all  to  the  N.  of  it,  save  Missouri,  to  freedom.  But  the  others  were 
not  to  be  settled  by  compromise,  and  in  the  campaign  of  1824  the 
once  harmonious  Republican  party  was  rent  in  pieces.  Each  of  the 
four  quarters  of  the  Republic  put  a candidate  in  the  field  and  ‘the 
scrub-race  for  the  presidency’  began.  The  new  manufacturing 
interests  of  the  East  put  forward  John  Quincy  Adams.  The  West, 
demanding  internal  improvements  at  public  expense,  had  for  its 
candidate  Henry  Clay.  William  H.  Crawford  of  Georgia  (nomin- 
ated by  a caucus  of  congressmen)  represented  the  old  Republican 
party  of  the  South.  Andrew  Jackson  of  Tennessee  stood  for  the  new 
Democracy,  for  the  people,  with  all  their  hatred  of  monopolies  and 
class  control,  their  prejudices,  their  half-formed  notions,  their  violent 
outbursts  of  feeling.  Behind  none  of  them  was  there  an  organized 
party.  But  taking  the  name  of  ‘Adams  men’  and  ‘Clay  men’,  ‘Craw- 
ford men’  and  ‘Jackson  men’,  the  friends  of  each  entered  the  cam- 
paign and  lost  it.  No  candidate  secured  a majority  of  the  elec- 
torial  college,  and  the  House  of  Representatives  chose  John  Quincy 
Adams. 

Under  the  administration  of  Adams  (1825-29)  the  men  who 
wished  for  protection  and  the  men  who  wished  for  internal  improve- 
ments at  Government  expense  united,  took  the  name  first  of  Na- 
tional Republicans  and  then  of  Whigs,  and,  led  on  by  Henry  Clay 
and  Daniel  Webster ^ carried  through  the  high  protection  tariffs  of 
1828  and  1832.  The  friends  of  Jackson  and  Crawford  took  the 
name  of  Democrats,  won  the  election  of  1829,  and,  during  twelve 
years,  governed  the  country.  In  the  course  of  these  years  the  popu- 
lation of  the  United  States  rose  to  17,000,000,  and  the  number  of 


xl 


IX.  HISTORY. 


states  to  twenty-six.  Steam  navigation  began  on  the  Ocean ; two 
thousand  miles  of  railroad  were  built  in  the  land;  new  inventions 
came  into  use ; and  the  social  and  industrial  life  of  the  people  was 
completely  revolutionized.  The  National  debt  was  paid;  a surplus 
accumulated  in  the  Treasury;  the  sale  of  public  lands  rose  from 
$3,000,000  in  1831  to  $25,000,000  in  1836;  and  the  rage  for  in- 
ternal improvements  burned  more  fiercely  than  ever.  A great  finan- 
cial panic  spread  over  the  country ; the  Charter  of  the  National  Bank 
expired ; a hundred  ‘wild-cat  banks’  sprang  up  to  take  its  place ; and 
the  question  of  the  abolition  of  slavery  became  troublesome. 

On  the  great  questions  which  grew  out  of  this  condition  of 
affairs  the  position  of  the  two  parties  was  well  defined.  The  Demo- 
crats demanded  a strict  construction  of  the  Constitution ; no  inter- 
nal improvements  at  public  expense;  a surrender  of  the^  public 
lands  to  the  state  in  which  they  lay ; no  tariff  for  protection ; no 
National  Bank;  no  agitation  of  the  question  of  abolition  of  slavery; 
the  establishment  of  sub  - treasuries  for  the  safe  keeping  of  the 
public  funds,  and  the  distribution  of  the  surplus  revenue.  The 
Whigs  demanded  a re-charter  of  the  National  Bank;  a tariff  for  pro- 
tection; the  expenditure  of  the  surplus  on  internal  improvements; 
the  distribution  of  the  money  derived  from  the  sale  of  public  lands; 
a limitation  of  the  veto  power  of  the  President;  and  no  removals 
from  office  for  political  reasons. 

The  Democrats,  true  to  their  principles,  and  having  the  power, 
carried  them  out.  They  destroyed  the  Bank ; they  defeated  bill  after 
bill  for  the  construction  of  roads  and  canals;  they  distributed 
$38,000,000  of  the  surplus  revenue  among  the  states,  and,  by  the 
cartage  of  immense  sums  of  money  from  the  East  to  the  far  distant 
West,  hastened  that  inevitable  financial  crisis  known  as  the  ‘panic 
of  1837’.  Andrew  Jackson  had  just  been  succeeded  in  the  Presi- 
dency by  Martin  Van  Buren  (1837-41)  and  on  him  the  storm 
burst  in  all  its  fury.  But  he  stood  it  bravely,  held  to  a strict  con- 
struction of  the  Constitution,  insisted  that  the  panic  would  right 
itself  without  interference  by  the  Government,  and  stoutly  refused 
to  meddle.  Since  the  refusal  of  Congress  to  re-charter  the  Bank  of 
the  United  States,  whose  charter  expired  in  1836,  the  revenue  of 
the  Government  had  been  deposited  in  certain  ‘pet  banks  desig- 
nated by  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury.  Every  one  of  them  failed  in 
the  panic  of  1837.  Yan  Buren,  therefore,  recommended  ‘the  divorce 
of  Bank  and  State’,  and  after  a struggle  of  three  years  his  friends 
carried  the  ‘sub-treasury’  scheme  in  1840.  This  law  cast  olf  all  con- 
nection between  the  State  Banks  and  the  Government,  put  the  col- 
lectors of  the  revenue  under  heavy  bonds  to  keep  the  money  safely 
till  called  for  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  and  limited  payments 
to  or  by  the  United  States  to  specie. 

The  year  1840  was  presidential  year  and  is  memorable  for  the 
introduction  of  new  political  methods ; for  the  rise  of  a new  and 


IX.  HISTORY. 


xli 


vigorous  party ; and  for  the  appearance  of  a new  political  issue. 
The  new  machinery  consisted  in  the  permanent  introduction  of  the 
National  Convention  for  the  nomination  of  a president,  now  used  by 
the  Democrats  for  the  second  time,  and  by  the  Whigs  for  the  first  • 
in  the  promulgation  of  a party  platform  by  the  convention,  now 
used  by  the  Democrats  for  the  first  time;  and  in  the  use  of  mass 
meetings,  processions,  songs,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  a modern 
campaign  by  the  Whigs.  The  new  party  was  the  Liberty  Party  and 
the  new  issue  the  ‘absolute  and  unqualified  divorce  of  the  General 
Government  from  slavery,  and  the  restoration  of  equality  of  rights 
among  men’.  The  principles  of  that  party  were : slavery  is  against 
natural  right,  is  strictly  local,  is  a state  institution,  and  derives  no 
support  from  the  authority  of  Congress,  which  has  no  power  to  set 
up  or  continue  slavery  anywhere;  every  treaty,  every  act,  estab- 
lishing, favouring,  or  continuing  slavery  in  the  District  of  Columbia, 
in  the  territories,  on  the  high  seas  is,  therefore,  unconstitutional. 

The  candidate  of  this  party  was  James  Gillespie  Birney.  The 
Democrats  nominated  Martin  Yan  Buren.  The  Whigs  put  forward 
William  Henry  Harrison  and  elected  him.  Harrison  died  one  month 
after  his  inauguration,  and  John  Tyler,  the  Vice-President,  and  a 
Democrat  .of  the  Calhoun  wing  became  president.  The  Whig  policy 
as  sketched  by  Clay  was  the  repeal  of  the  sub-treasury  act;  the 
charter  of  a National  Bank;  a tariff  for  protection;  and  the  dis- 
tribution of  the  sales  of  public  lands.  To  the  repeal  of  the  sub- 
treasury act  Tyler  gladly  assented.  To  the  establishment  of  a bank 
even  when  called  ‘Fiscal  Corporation’,  he  would  not  assent,  and, 
having  twice  vetoed  such  bills , was  read  out  of  the  party’  by  a 
formal  manifesto  issued  by  Whig  Congressmen.  It  mattered  little, 
however,  for  the  question  of  the  hour  was  not  the  bank,  nor  the 
tariff,  nor  the  distribution  of  the  sales  of  lands,  but  the  annexation 
of  the  Republic  of  Texas.  J oined  to  the  demand  for  the  re-occupation 
of  Oregon,  it  became  the  chief  plank  in  the  Democratic  platform 
of  1844.  The  Whig  platform  said  not  a word  on  the  subject,  and 
the  Liberty  Party,  turning  with  loathing  from  the  cowardice  of 
Clay,  voted  again  for  Birney,  pve  the  State  of  New  York  to  the 
Democrats,  and  with  it  the  presidency.  Accepting  the  result  of  the 
election  as  an  ‘instruction  from  the  people’.  Congress  passed  the 
needed  act  and  Tyler  in  the  last  hours  of  his  administration  declared 
Texas  annexed. 

The  boundary  of  the  new  State  was  ill-defined.  Texas  claimed 
to  the  Rio  Grande.  Mexico  would  probably  have  acknowledged  the 
Nueces  River.  The  United  States  attempted  to  enforce  the  claim  of 
Texas,  sent  troops  to  the  Rio  Grande,  and  so  brought  on  the  Mexi- 
can War.  At  its  close  the  boundary  of  the  United  States  was  carried 
to  the  S.  from  42®  to  the  Gila  River,  and  what  is  now  California 
Nevada,  Arizona,  New  Mexico,  Utah,  and  more  than  half  of  Wyo- 
ming and  Colorado  were  added  to  the  public  domain.  While  the 


xlii 


IX.  HISTORY. 


■war  -was  still  raging,  Polk,  who  had  succeeded  Tyler,  asked  for 
$2  000,000  to  aid  him  in  negotiating  peace.  'Well  knowing  that 
the  money  was  to  be  used  to  buy  land  from  Mexico,  David  Wilmot 
moved  in  the  House  of  Representatives  that  from  a,ll  territory  bought 
with  the  money  slavery  should  be  excluded.  This  was  the  famous 
Wilmot  proviso.  It  failed  of  adoption  and  the  territory  was  acquired 
in  1848,  with  its  character  as  to  slavery  or  freedom  wholly  un- 

determined.  ^ x v 

And  now  the  old  parties  began  to  break  up.  Democrats  who 
believed  in  the  Wilmot  proviso,  and  Whigs  who  detested  the  annex- 
ation of  Texas , the  war  with  Mexico,  and  the  extension  of  slavery 
went  over  in  a body  to  the  Liberty  Party,  formed  ^i^b  it  tbe  ‘Free- 
soil  Party’,  nominated  Martin  Van  Bnren,  and  gave  Mm  300,000  votes. 

In  tbeir  platform  they  declared  that  Congress  had  no  more  power 
to  make  a slave  than  to  make  a king;  that  they  accepted  the  issue 
thrust  on  them  by  the  South;  that  to  the  demand  for  more  slave 
states  and  more  slave  territories  they  answered,  no  more  slave 
states,  no  more  slave  territories;  and  that  on  their  banner  was  in- 
scribed ‘Free  Soil,  Free  Speech,  Free  Labor,  and  Free  Men’.  As  the 
defection  of  Whigs  to  the  Liberty  Party  in  1844  gave  New  York 
State  to  the  Democrats  and  elected  Polk,  so  the  defection  of  Demo- 
crats to  the  Free  Soilers  in  1848  gave  New  York  to  the  Whigs  and 
elected  Taylor.  As  Harrison,  the  first  Whig  President,  died  one 
month  after  taking  office,  so  Taylor,  the  second  Whig  President, 
died  suddenly  when  a little  over  one  year  in  office,  just  as  the  great 
Whig  Compromise  of  1850  was  closing.  The  imperative  need  ol 
civil  government  in  the  new  territory,  the  discovery  of  gold  ^ali' 
fornia,  the  rush  of  men  from  all  parts  of  the  earth  to  the  Pacific 
Coast  forced  Congress  to  establish  organized  territories.  The  question 
was  - shall  they  be  opened  or  closed  to  slavery?  But,  as  the  soil  had 
been  free  when  acquired  from  Mexico,  the  question  really  was:  shall 
the  United  States  establish  slavery?  The  Democrats,  holding  that 
slaves  were  property,  claimed  the  right  to  take  them  into  any  terri- 
tory and  asserting  the  principle  of  ‘squatter  sovereignty’,  claimed 
the  iight  of  the  people  living  in  any  territory  to  settle  for  themselves 
whether  it  should  be  slave  or  free.  The  Free  Soilers  demanded  that 
the  soil  having  been  free  when  a part  of  Mexico  should  be  free  as  a 
part  of  the  United  States.  Between  these  two  Clay  now  stepped  in 
to  act  as  pacificator.  Taking  up  the  grievances  of  each  side,  he 
framed  and  carried  through  the  measure  known  as  the  Compromise 
of  1850,  the  third  great  political  Compromise  in  our  history.  Ihe 
fruit  of  this  was  the  admission  of  California,  as  a free  state;  the 
passage  of  a more  stringent  law  for  the  recovery  of  fugitive  > 

the  abolition  of  the  slave  trade  in  the  District  of  Columbia;  and  the 
organization  of  Utah  and  New  Mexico  on  the  basis  of  ‘squatter 
sovereignty\  This  done,  Senators  and  Representatives  of  all  parties 
joined  in  a manifesto,  declaring  that  the  issues  resting  on  slavery 


IX.  HISTORY. 


xliii 


were  dead  issues,  and  that  they  would  neither  vote  for,  nor  work 
for  any  man  who  thought  otherwise.  But  thousands  did  think  other- 
wise. The  action  of  Clay  pleased  none.  Anti-slavery  men  deserted 
him  in  the  North ; pro-slavery  men  deserted  him  in  the  South ; and 
in  1852  the  Whig  party  carried  hut  four  states  out  of  thirty-one  and 
perished.  Even  its  two  great  leaders  Clay  and  Webster  were,  by  that 
time,  in  their  graves. 

Excited  by  such  success,  the  Democrats,  led  on  by  Stephen  A, 
Douglas^  now  broke  through  the  compromise  of  1820  and  in 
1854  applied  ‘squatter  sovereignty’  to  the  organization  of  the  terri- 
tories of  Kansas  and  Nebraska.  Against  this  violation  State  legis- 
latures, the  people,  the  pulpit,  and  the  press  protested  vigorously, 
for  every  acre  of  Kansas  and  Nebraska  lay  to  the  N.  of  36®  30'  and 
was  solemnly  pledged  to  freedom.  But  the  Democratic  leaders  would 
not  listen  and  drove  from  their  ranks  another  detachment  of  voters. 
The  effect  was  soon  manifest.  The  little  parties  began  to  unite  and 
when,  in  1856,  the  time  came  to  elect  another  President,  the  Repub- 
lican party  of  to-day  was  fully  organized  and  ready.  Once  more  and 
for  the  last  time  for  28  years  the  Democrats  won.  The  administra- 
tion of  James  Buchanan  (1857-6 IJ  marks  an  epoch.  The  question 
before  the  country  was  that  of  the  extension  of  slavery  into  the  new 
territories.  Hardly  had  he  been  inaugurated,  when  the  Supreme  Court 
handed  down  a decision  on  the  case  of  Dred  Scott,  which  denied  the 
right  of  Congress  to  legislate  on  slavery,  set  aside  the  compromises 
of  1820  and  1850  as  unconstitutional,  and  opened  all  the  territories 
to  slavery.  From  that  moment  the  Whig  and  Democratic  parties  began 
to  break  up  rapidly  till,  when  1860  came,  four  parties  and  four  pre- 
sidential candidates  were  in  the  field.  The  Democratic  party,  having 
finally  split  at  the  National  Convention  for  nominating  a president 
and  vice-president,  the  southern  wing  put  forward  Breckenridge  and 
Lane  and  demanded  that  Congress  should  protect  slavery  in  the  terri- 
tories. The  northern  wing  nominated /Sfep/ien  A.  DowpZas  and  declared 
for  squatter  sovereignty  and  the  Compromise  of  1850.  A third  party, 
taking  the  name  of  ‘Constitutional  Union’,  declared  for  the  Constitution 
and  the  Union  at  any  price  and  no  agitation  of  slavery,  nominated 
Bell  and  Everett^  and  drew  the  support  of  the  old  Whigs  of  the  Clay 
and  Webster  school.  The  Republicans,  declaring  that  Congress 
should  prohibit  slavery  in  the  territories,  nominated  Abraham  Lincoln 
and  Hannibal  Hamlin  and  won  the  election. 

The  State  of  South  Carolina  immediately  seceded  and  before  the 
end  of  Feb.,  1861,  was  followed  by  G-eorgia,  Florida,  Alabama, 
Mississippi,  Louisiana,  andToxas.  Taking  the  name  of  the  Confederate 
States  of  America,  they  formed  first  a temporary  and  then  a perman- 
ent government,  elected  Jefferson  Davis  President,  raised  an  army, 
and  besieged  Fort  Sumter  in  Charleston  Harbour.  The  attempt  to 
relieve  the  fort  brought  on  the  bombardment  and  surrender  (April 
19th,  1861).  The  Confederate  States  were  now  joined  by  Virginia, 


iliv 


IX.  HISTORY. 


North  Carolina,  Arkansas,  and  Tennessee.  Richmond  was  made  the 
capital,  and  the  Civil  War  opened  in  earnest. 

The  line  of  separation  between  the  States  then  became  the 
Potomac  River,  the  Ohio  River,  and  a line  across  S.  Missouri  and 
Indian  Territory  to  New  Mexico.  Along  this  line  the  troops  of  the 
Union  were  drawn  up  in  many  places  under  many  commanders 
Yet  there  were  in  the  main  but  three  great  armies.  That  of  the  E. 
or  Potomac  under  Gen.  McClellan ; that  of  the  centre  or  the  Ohio 
under  Gen.  Buell  j that  of  the  W.  or  Missouri  under  Gen.  Halleck. 
In  command  of  all  as  Lieutenant-General  was  Winfield  Scott. 
Confronting  them  were  the  troops  of  the  Confederacy,  drawn  up  in 
three  corresponding  armies:  that  of  N.  Virginia  under  Johnston  and 
Lee,  that  of  the  Cumberland  under  Albert  Sidney  Johnston,  and  that 
of  the  trans-Mississippi  under  McCulloch  and  Price. 

Yielding  to  the  demand  of  the  North  for  the  capture  of  Rich- 
mond before  the  Confederate  congress  could  meet  there  (July 
20th,  1861),  McDowell  went  forth  with  thirty-eight  thousand  three- 
months  volunteers  to  the  ever  memorable  field  of  Bull  Run  (p.  417). 
But  the  serious  campaigning  did  not  begin  until  Jan. , 1862.  Then 
the  whole  line  west  of  the  Alleghenies  (made  up  of  the  armies  of 
Ohio  and  the  Missouri),  turning  on  Pittsburg  as  a centre,  swept 
southward,  captured  Forts  Henry  and  Donelson,  defeated  the  Con- 
federates at  Shiloh  (p.  426),  captured  Corinth  (p.  426),  took  Is- 
land No.  10  (p.  406),  and  drove  them  from  Fort  Pillow.  Meantime 
Farragut  entered  the  Mississippi  from  the  Gulf  (see  p.  463) , passed 
Forts  Jackson  and  St.  Phillip,  captured  New  Orleans,  and  sent 
Commodore  Davis  up  the  river  to  take  Memphis.  Memphis  fell 
June  6th,  1862,  and,  save  for  Vicksburg,  the  Mississippi  was  open 
to  navigation.  When  the  year  closed,  the  Confederates  had  been 
driven  to  the  E.  into  the  mountains  of  Tennessee,  where  (Dec.  31st, 
1862-Jan.  2nd,  1863)  was  fought  the  desperate  and  bloody  battle 
of  Murfreesboro’.  The  Union  troops  won,  and  the  Confederate  army 
fell  back  to  Chattanooga  (p.  425). 

With  the  Army  of  the  Potomac  meantime  all  had  gone  ill.  ihe 
affair  at  Bull  Run  in  July,  1861,  had  been  followed  by  the  transfer 
of  the  army  to  McClellan.  But  McCleUan  wasted  time,  wore  out 
the  patience  of  the  North,  and  forced  Lincoln  to  issue  General 
Order  No.  1 for  a forward  movement  of  all  the  armies  on  Feb.  iind, 
1862.  Obedient  to  this  McClellan  began  his  ‘Peninsula  Campaign 
against  Richmond,  was  out-generaled  by  Lee,  and  was  superseded  by 
Pope.  In  the  second  battle  of  Bull  Run  (p.  417)  Pope  suffered  so 
crushing  a defeat  that  Lee  ventured  to  cross  the  Potomac , enter 
Maryland,  and  encounter  McClellan  (who  had  been  re-appointed) 
on  the  field  of  Antietam  (p.  429).  In  that  battle  Lee  was  beaten  and 
fled  across  the  Potomac.  But  McClellan  failed  to  follow  up  the  victory 
and  was  removed,  the  command  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac  passing 
to  Burnside.  Burnside  led  it  across  the  Potomac  and  the  Rappahan- 


IX.  HISTORY. 


xlv 


nock  and  on  Dec.  13th,  1862,  lost  the  battle  of  Fredericksburg  (p.  408). 
For  this  he  was  replaced  by  Hooker^  who.  May  lst-4th,  1863,  fought 
and  lost  the  battle  of  Chancellors ville  (p.  408).  Lee  now  again  took 
the  offensive,  crossed  the  Potomac,  entered  Pennsylvania,  and  at 
Gettysburg  met  the  Army  of  the  Potomac  under  Meade  (p.  408).  On 
that  field  was  fought  the  decisive  battle  of  the  war.  Then  (July 
lst-4th,  1863)  the  backbone  of  the  Confederacy  was  broken,  and 
the  two  armies  returned  to  their  old  positions  in  Virginia. 

While  Meade  was  beating  Lee  at  Gettysburg,  Grant  captured 
Vicksburg  (July  lst-3rd,  1863;  see  p.  401).  For  this  he  was  sent  to 
command  the  army  of  Rosecrans,  then  besieged  by  Bragg  at  Chat- 
tanooga (p.  425).  Again  success  attended  him  and,  in  Nov.,  he 
stormed  Lookout  Mountain,  defeated  Bragg  in  the  famous  ‘Battle 
above  the  Clouds’  (p.  425),  and  drove  him  in  disorder  through  the 
mountains.  For  these  signal  victories  he  was  raised  to  the  rank  of 
Lieutenant-General  (in  1864)  and  placed  in  command  of  the  Armies 
of  the  United  States. 

That  year  is  memorable  for  the  great  march  of  Sherman  to  the 
E.  from  Chattanooga  to  the  sea  (p.  440),  for  the  victories  of  Sheri- 
dan in  the  Valley  of  the  Shenandoah  (p.  429),  for  the  Wilderness 
Campaign  of  Grant  (p.  408),  the  shutting  up  of  Lee  in  Richmond,  and 
by  the  re-election  of  Lincoln.  His  competitor  was  General  McClellan^ 
whom  the  northern  Democrats  put  toward  on  the  platform  that  the 
war  was  a failure  and  that  peace  should  be  made  with  the  South.  In 
the  spring  of  1865  came  the  retreat  of  Lee  from  Richmond,  and  on 
AprB  9th,  his  surrender  at  Appomattox  Court  House  (p.  417).  On 
April  15th,  1865,  Lincoln  was  assassinated  (p.  322),  and  Andrew 
Johnson  became  President. 

With  the  succession  of  Johnson  the  era  of  Reconstruction,  polit- 
ical and  social,  begins.  The  outcome  of  political  reconstruction 
was  the  13th,  14th,  and  15th  amendments  to  the  Constitution  of  the 
United  States,  the  impeachment  of  Andrew  Johnson,  and  a long  list 
of  acts  to  protect  and  assist  the  Freedmen  of  the  South.  The  out- 
come of  social  reconstruction  was  the  rise  of  the  Ku  Klux  Klan,  the 
passage  and  use  of  the  Force  Act,  and  the  dreadful  condition  of  af- 
fairs which  ruined  the  South  for  a decade. 

In  the  North  the  effect  of  such  measures  was  to  split  the  Repub- 
lican  party  and  put  seven  Presidential  candidates  in  the  field  in 
1872.  One  represented  the  Temperance  party;  another  the  Labour 
party,  denouncing  Chinese  labour  and  the  non-taxation  of  Govern- 
ment land;  a third  was  the  Liberal  Republican,  demanding  union, 
amnesty,  and  civil  rights,  accusing  Grant  of  packing  the  Supreme 
Court  in  the  interests  of  corporations,  and  calling  for  a repeal  of 
^e  Ku  Klux  Laws.  The  Liberal  Republicans  having  chosen  Horace 
Greeley  as  their  candidate,  the  Democrats  accepted  and  endorsed 
him.  But  he  pleased  neither  party  and  the  discontented  Liberals 
and  the  discontented  Democrats  each  chose  a candidate  of  their 


xlvi 


IX.  HISTORY. 


own.  The  Kepuhlicans  nominated  Grant  and 
second  term  fl873-77)  was  the  nadir  of  our  politics,  both  State 
and  National,^  and  ended  with  the  disputed  election  and  the  rise 
of  the  MepeUent  or ‘Greenback  Party’,  demanding  the  repeal  of 
?he  Act  for  the  resumption  of  specie  payments  and  the  issue  of 
United  States  ‘greenback’  notes,  convertible  into  bonds,  as  the  cur- 
wncy  of  the  country.  Double  returns  and  doubtful  returns  from 
the  S States  put  the  votes  of  thirteen  electors  in  dispute.  As  the 
uLe  wL  DLocratic  and  the  Senate  Republican,  the  ioint  rule 

not  be  adopted.  A compromise  was  necessary  and  on  Jan.  Z^tn, 
1877  the  Electoral  Commission  of  five  Senators,  five  Represen  a 
and  five  Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court  was  created  to  decide  on  the 
dorttful  returns.  Of  the  fifteen  eight  were  Republicans  and  seven 
Democrats  and  by  a strict  party  vote  the  thirteen  Electoral  votes  were 
given  to  the  Republicans  and  Butherford  B.  Hayes  declared  electe  . 

' The  Imorfble  events  of  his  term  (1877-81)  were  the  resump- 
tion of  specie  payments  on  Jan.  1st,  1879;  the  passage  of  the  Bland 
Silver  BiU,  restoring  the  silver  dollar  to  the  list  of  Lq 

legal  tender,  and  providing  for  the  coinage  of  not  1®®®  * “ 
nor  more  than  4,000,000  each  month;  and  the  growth  of  the 

National  or  Greenback-Labour  party.  Hayes  was  foUowed  in  1881 
by  James  A.  Garfield,  whose  contest  with  the  Senators 
Y^ork  over  the  distribution  of  patronage  led  to  his  J 

Te  LU  of  a crazy  applicant  for  office.  Chester  A.  Arthur  then  be- 
came  President,  was  followed  in  1885  by  Grover  Cleveland,  who  was 
succeeded  in  1889  by  Benjamin  Harrison,  who  was  succeed- 

ed in  1893  by  Grover  Cleveland.  In  1897  William  McKmley  became 
President  and  his  first  period  of  office  was  signalized  by  a war  with 
Spain  (’1898)  and  the  advent  of  the  United  States  as  a Colonia 
Power.^Snley  was  re-elected  in  1901  but  was  soon  after  assas- 
sinated by  an  anarchist,  thus  making  way  for  the  vme-president, 
Theodore  Roosevelt.  Among  the  chief  events  dunng  the 
of  Theodore  Roosevelt  were  the  recognition  ^7  *®  ! 

the  newt  created  Republic  of  Panama  (Nov.,  1903),  the  consequent 
cottruction  of  the  Panama  Canal,  and  the  holding  of  the  Louisiana 
turehte  Exposition  at  St.  Louis  in  1904,  to  commemorate  the  great 
extension  of  territory  mentioned  at  p.  xxxviii. 


IX.  HISTORY. 


xlvii 


States  and  Territories  of  the  United  States. 


States.  Area 

1.  Alabama  (Ala.)  . 

2.  Arkansas  (Ark.). 

3.  California  (Cal.). 

4.  Colorado  (Colo.) 

5.  Connecticut  (Ct.) 

6.  Delaware  (Del.). 

7.  Florida  (Fla.)  . . 

8.  Georgia  (Ga.)  . . 

9.  Idaho  (Idaho) . . 

10.  Illinois  (111.)  . . 

11.  Indiana  (Ind.).  . 

12.  Iowa  (la.)  . . . 

13.  Kansas  (Kan.).  . 

14.  Kentucky  (Ky.)  . 

15.  Louisiana  (La.)  . 

16.  Maine  (Me.) . . . 

17.  Maryland  (Md.)  . 

18.  Massachusetts 

(Mass.)  .... 

19.  Michigan  (Mich.) 

20.  Minnesota  (Minn.) 

21.  Mississippi  (Miss.) 

22.  Missouri  (Mo.)  . 

. Montana  (Mont.). 

. Nebraska  (Keb  ). 

. Nevada  (Nev.)  . 

26.  New  Hampshire 

(N.H.)  .... 

27.  New  Jersey  (N.J.) 

28.  New  York  (N.  Y.) 

29.  North  Carolina 

(N.C.)  .... 

30.  North  Dakota 

(N.  D.)  . . . . 

31.  Ohio  (0.)  ..... 


insq.  M.  Pop.  in  1900 
51,540  1,828,697 
53,045  1,311,546 
158,172  1,485,053 
103,645  539,700 

4,845  908,420 

1,960  184,735 

54,240  528,542 

58,980  2,216,331 
84,290  161,772 

56.000  4,821,550 
35,910  2,516,462 
55,475  2,231,853 
81,700  1,470,495 

40.000  2,147,174 

45,420  1,381,625 
29,895  694,466 

9,860  1,188,044 

8,040  2,805,346 
57,430  2,420,982 
79,205  1,751,934 
46,340  1,551,270 
68,735  3,106,665 
145,310  243,329 

76,840  1,066,300 
109,740  42,335 

9,005  411,588 

7,525  1,883,669 
47,620  7,268,894 

48,580  1,893,810 

70,195  319,146 
40,760  4,157,545 


States.  Area  i 

32.  Oregon  (Ore.) . . 

33.  Pennsylvania 

(Pa.) 

34.  Rhode  Island 

(R.I.)  . . . . 

35.  South  Carolina 

(S.C.) 

36.  South  Dakota 

(S.D.)  . . . . 

37.  Tennessee  (Tenn.) 

38.  Te.Kas  (Tex.)  . . 

39.  Utah  (Utah.)  . . 

40.  Vermont  (Vt.)  , 

41.  Virginia  (Va.)  . 

42.  Washington 

(Wash.)  . . . 

43.  West  Virginia 

(W.Va.)  . . . 

44.  Wisconsin  (Wis.) 

45.  Wyoming  (Wyo.) 


n sq.  M.  Pop.  in  1900 
94,560  413,536 

44,985  6,302,115 

1,053  428,556 

30,170  1,340,316 

76,850  410,570 

41,750  2,020,616 
262,290  3,048,710 
82,190  276,749 

9,135  343,641 

40,125  1,854,148 

66,880  518,103 

24,645  958,800 
54,450  2,069,042 
97,575  92,531 


Territories. 

Arizona  (Ariz.)  . . . 112,920  122,931 

New  Mexico  (N.Mex.)  122,460  195,310 

Oklahoma  (Okla.).  . 38,830  398,331 
IadianTerritory(I.T.)  31,000  392,060 


District  of  Columbia 


(D.  C.) 60  278,718 

Alaska 590,884  63,592 

Hawaii . 6,449  154,001 


Total:  3,567,563  76,212,168 


Presidents  of  the  United  States. 


1.  George  Washington  1789-97. 

2.  John  Adams  1797-1801. 

3.  Thomas  Jefferson  1801-09. 

4.  James  Madison  1809-17. 

5.  James  Monroe  1817-25. 

6.  John  (Quincy  Adams  1825-29. 

7.  Andrew  Jackson  1829-37. 

8.  Martin  Van  Buren  1837-41. 

9.  William  H.  Harrison  1841. 

10.  John  Tyler  1841-45. 

11.  James  K.  Polk  1845-49. 

12.  Zachary  Taylor  1849-50. 

13.  Millard  Fillmore  1850-53, 


14.  Franklin  Pierce  1853-57. 

15.  James  Buchanan  1857-61. 

16.  Abraham  Lincoln  1861-65. 

17.  Andrew  Johnson  1865-69. 

18.  Ulysses  S.  Grant  1869-77. 

19.  Rutherford  B.  Hayes  1877-81. 

20.  James  A,  Garfield  1881. 

21.  Chester  A.  Arthur  1881-85. 

22.  Grover  Cleveland  1885-89. 

23.  Benjamin  Harrison  1889-93. 

24.  Grover  Cleveland  1893-97. 

25.  William  McKinley  1897-1901. 

I 26.  Theodore  Roosevelt  1901. 


xlviii 


X.  CONSTITUTION 


X.  Constitution  and  Government  of  tlie  United  States 
by  James  Bryce y 

Author  of  ‘The  American  Commonwealth\ 

The  United  States  form  a Federal  Republic  — that  is  to  say,  a Re- 
public  created  by  the  union  of  a number  of  separate  commonwealths, 
each  of  which  retains  some  powers  of  government  though  it  has 
yielded  others  to  the  Federation  as  a whole.  The  circumstances 
under  which  this  Union  took  place  have  been  already  described  in 
the  historical  sketch.  It  was  established  by  the  adoption  of  an  in- 
strument called  the  Constitution  drafted  by  a Convention  which  rnet 
at  Philadelphia  in  1787,  accepted  and  ratified  by  the  (then  Id) 
States  in  the  years  1788-91.  The  Constitution  prescribes  (1)  the 
structure  of  the  Federal  Government  and  the  respective  functions  of 
its  several  parts,  (2)  the  powers  of  the  Federal  Government  and 
restrictions  imposed  upon  it,  (3)  the  relations  of  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment to  the  States  and  of  the  States  to  one  another,  (4)  certain  restric- 
tions imposed  upon  the  States.  It  does  not  specify  the  powers  of  the 
States,  because  these  are  assumed  as  pre-existing;  the  States  when 
they  created  the  Federal  Government  having  retained  for  themselves 
most  of  the  powers  which  they  previously  enjoyed. 

The  Constitution  is  the  supreme  law  of  the  land,  hindiiig  every- 
where upon  all  authorities  and  persons.  It  can  be  altered  in  either 
of  two  ways:  (a)  The  Federal  Legislature  may  by  a two-thirds  vote 
in  each  of  the  two  Houses  prepare  amendments  and  send  them  to 
the  States.  If  ratified  by  the  State  Legislatures  or  by  Conventions 
(i  e.  assemblies  elected  by  the  people  for  the  purpose)  in  three- 
fourths  of  the  States,  they  take  effect  and  become  part  of  the  Con- 
stitution. (b)  The  legislatures  of  two-thirds  of  the  States  may  re- 
quire the  Federal  Legislature  to  call  a Constitutional  Convention  to 
prepare  amendments  to  the  Constitution.  These  amendments  when 
ratified  by  three-fourths  of  the  State  Legislatures  or  State  Conventions 
fas  the  case  may  be),  take  effect  as  parts  of  the  Constitution.  Fifteen 
amendments  bave  been  actually  made,  all  drafted  by  the  Federal 
Legislature  and  ratified  by  the  State  Legislatures.  As  the  States 
created  the  Federation  and  as  they  still  exercise  most  of  the  ordinary 
functions  of  government,  it  is  convenient  to  describe  J^st.  ^ 

The  States  and  their  Government.  There  are  now  45  States  in 
the  Union.  Although  differing  very  greatly  in  size,  population,  and 
character,  they  have  all  of  them  the  same  frame  of  government.  In 
all  of  them  this  frame  is  regulated  by  a constitution  which  each 
State  has  enacted  for  itself  and  which,  being  the  direct  expression  of 
the  popular  will,  is  the  supreme  law  of  the  State,  binding  all  author- 
ities and  persons  therein.  Such  a constitution  always  contains  a 
so-called  Bill  of  Rights,  declaring  the  general  principles  of  the  gov- 
ernment and  the  primordial  rights  of  the  citizen,  and  usually  con- 
tains also  a great  number  of  administrative  and  financial  regulations 


AND  GOVERNMENT. 


xlix 


belonging  to  the  sphere  of  ordinary  law.  The  habit  has  grown  up 
of  late  years  of  dealing,  by  means  of  these  instruments,  with  most 
of  the  current  questions  on  which  public  opinion  calls  for  legislation. 
These  constitutions  are  often  changed  by  amendments  which  (in  most 
States)  are  passed  by  the  Legislature  by  certain  prescribed  majorities 
and  then  submitted  to  the  vote  of  the  people.  When  it  is  desired 
to  make  an  entirely  new  constitution,  a special  body  called  a Con- 
vention is  elected  for  the  purpose,  and  the  instrument  drafted  by  it 
is  almost  invariably  submitted  to  the  people  to  be  voted  upon. 

State  Oovernments.  The  Legislature.  In  every  State  the  Legis- 
lature consists  of  two  bodies,  both  alike  elected  by  the  people,  though 
in  districts  of  different  sizes.  The  smaller  body  (whose  members 
are  elected  in  the  larger  districts)  is  called  the  Senate  and  varies  in 
number  from  9 to  51.  The  larger  body  is  usually  called  the  As- 
sembly or  House  of  Representatives  and  varies  in  number  from 
21  to  321.  The  suffrage  has  now  everywhere  been  extended  to  all 
adult  males  who  have  resided  in  a certain  (usually  a short)  period 
within  the  State.  In  three  States  (Wyoming,  Colorado,  and  Utah)  it 
is  enjoyed  by  women  also  and  in  several  women  vote  at  municipal 
or  school  committee  elections.  The  Senate  is  usually  elected  for  four 
years  — sometimes,  however,  for  three,  two,  or  even  one.  The  House 
is  usually  elected  for  two  years.  Both  Houses  have  similar  powers, 
save  that  in  most  States  Money  Bills  must  originate  in  the  House  of 
Representatives.  The  powers  of  these  Legislatures  are  limited,  and 
in  the  case  of  the  newer  constitutions  very  strictly  limited,  by  the 
State  Constitution.  If  they  pass  any  statute  contravening  its  provisions, 
or  infringing  any  of  the  restrictions  it  has  imposed,  such  a statute  is 
void.  All  members  of  State  Legislatures  are  paid,  usually  at  the  rate 
of  about  $ 5 a day.  They  are  generally  required  by  law  and  almost 
invariably  required  by  custom  to  be  resident  in  the  district  from 
which  they  are  chosen. 

These  legislative  bodies  are  not  greatly  respected,  nor  is  a seat 
in  them  greatly  desired  by  the  better  class  of  citizens.  In  a few 
States,  such  as  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Louisiana,  there  is  a 
pretty  large  proportion  of  corrupt  members. 

The  State  Executive.  In  every  State  the  head  of  the  Executive  is  the 
Governor,  elected  by  popular  vote  for  a term  of  (rarely  one)  usually 
two,  three,  or  even  four  years.  He  receives  a salary  of  from  $ 1000 
to  $ 10,000.  He  is  responsible  for  the  execution  of  the  laws  and 
the  maintenance  of  order  in  the  State,  whose  militia  he  commands. 
He  has,  except  in  four  States,  the  right  to  veto  any  bill  passed  by 
the  Legislature,  but  the  bill  may  be  re-passed  over  his  veto  by  a 
majority  (usually  two-thirds)  in  both  Houses.  He  is  assisted  by 
a Secretary  of  State  and  several  other  officials,  who,  however,  are 
not  named  by  him  but  elected  directly  by  the  people. 

The  State  Judiciary.  In  eight  States  the  Judges  are  appointed 
by  the  governor ; in  all  the  rest  they  are  elected  either  by  the  people 

Baedeker's  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


1 


X.  CONSTITUTION 


or  (in  five  States)  by  tbe  State  Legislature  for  terms  varying,  for  tbe 
Superior  judges,  from  two  to  twenty-one  years,  eight  to  ten  years  being 
the  average.  In  four,  however,  they  hold  for  life.  Their  salaries 
range  from  $2000  to  $ 10,000  per  annum,  but  in  most  states  do  not 
exceed  $ 5000.  Such  salaries,  coupled  with  the  uncertainty  of  re- 
election,  have  been  found  too  small  to  attract  the  best  legal  talent, 
and  complaints  are  often  made  that  the  Bench  is  not  as  strong  as 
the  Bar  which  practises  before  it.  Corruption,  however,  is  rare, 
especially  among  the  judges  of  the  higher  courts.  There  have  not 
been  more  than  three  or  four  States  in  which  it  has  been  proved  to 
exist,  and  in  some  of  these  it  does  not  exist  now.  It  is,  of  course, 
the  function  of  the  Courts  to  determine,  when  a case  comes  before 
them,  the  validity  or  invalidity  of  a State  Statute  which  is  alleged  to 
transgress  any  provision  of  the  State  Constitution.  Very  frequently 
they  are  obliged  to  declare  such  statutes  to  be  unconstitutional ; and 
in  this  way  the  Legislature  is  effectively  restrained  from  destroying 
the  securities  which  the  Constitution  provides. 

Local  Government^  Rural  and  Urban.  The  organization  of  local 
government  is  v^thin  the  province  of  State  Legislation  and  there  are 
many  differences  between  the  systems  in  force  in  different  States. 
As  regards  the  cities  (the  term  applied  in  America  to  any  muni- 
cipality), the  scheme  of  government  is  usually  as  follows. 

There  is  always  a Mayor,  the  head  of  the  executive,  elected  for 
one,  two,  or  three  years,  receiving  a substantial  salary,  and  charged 
with  the  maintenance  of  order  and  general  oversight  of  municipal 
affairs.  There  is  always  a legislature,  consisting  either  of  one  or 
of  two  representative  bodies  elected  for  short  terms,  generally  in 
wards,  and  (in  most  cases)  receiving  salaries.  The  other  officials, 
including  the  police  justices  and  local  civil  judges,  are  either  elect- 
ed by  the  people  or  appointed  by  the  Mayor,  with  or  without  the 
concurrence  of  the  Legislature.  The  tendency  of  late  years  has  been 
to  vest  larger  and  larger  powers  in  the  Mayor.  In  some  cities  there 
is  a distinct  board  of  Police  Commissioners  (sometimes  appointed 
by  the  State),  and  in  most  the  management  of  the  Public  Schools 
is  kept  distinct  from  the  rest  of  the  municipal  government  and  given 
to  a separately  elected  School  Committee. 

As  regards  Rural  Government,  two  systems  may  be  distinguished, 
in  the  one  of  which  the  township,  in  the  other  the  county,  is  the 
administrative  unit. 

The  township,  called  in  the  New  England  States  the  Town,  is  a 
small  district  corresponding  roughly  to  the  Commune  of  France,  or 
the  Gemelnde  of  Germany.  Its  area  is  in  the  Western  States  usu- 
ally 36  sq.  M.  and  its  average  population  from  500  to  2000.  Its  in- 
habitants choose  annually  a small  number  (usually  six  or  seven)  of 
officials,  who  manage  all  local  affairs,  roads,  police,  poor  relief,  and 
(in  some  States)  sanitary  matters,  collect  local  taxes  for  these  pur- 
poses, and  also  choose  one  or  more  local  justices.  In  the  New 


AND  GOVERNMENT. 


li 


England  States  and  in  most  parts  of  the  West  the  inhabitants  are 
accustomed  to  meet  at  least  once  in  spring,  in  some  places  several 
times  a year,  to  receive  the  reports  of  their  officers,  vote  the  taxes, 
and  pass  resolutions  upon  any  other  business  that  may  be  brought 
before  them.  This  gathering  is  called  the  Town  Meeting.  Schools 
are  usually  managed  by  a separate  School  Committee,  but  sometimes 
by  the  township  officers. 

Above  the  township  stands  the  county,  whose  area  averages  (in 
the  Western  States)  5-600  sq.  M.  In  the  older  States  it  is  usually 
smaller.  Its  business  is  administered  by  a board  of  (usually)  three  to 
five  persons,  elected  annually  and  receiving  small  salaries.  The 
county  has  charge  of  prisons,  lunatic  asylums,  main  roads,  and  in 
some  States  of  the  alms-houses  provided  for  relief  of  the  poor.  In 
other  States  this  function  is  left  to  the  townships,  which  administer 
a little  out-door  relief.  Pauperism  is  not  a serious  evil  except  in 
the  large  cities;  in  most  rural  districts  it  scarcely  exists. 

This  Township  and  County  System  prevails  over  all'the  Northern 
and  Middle  States  and  is  on  the  whole  purely  and  efficiently  ad- 
ministered. 

In  the  other  parts  of  the  Union,  i.e.  in  all  or  nearly  all  of  the 
former  Slave  States,  there  are  no  townships ; the  unit  of  government 
is  the  county,  to  whose  yearly  elected  officers  all  local  business 
whatever  is  intrusted.  The  Southern  counties  are  generally  some- 
what larger  but  not  more  populous  than  those  of  the  Northern  States. 
Local  government  is  altogether  less  developed  and  less  perfectly  vital- 
ised in  this  part  of  the  country,  but  within  the  last  twenty  years 
sensible  progress  has  been  made* — least,  of  course,  in  the  dis- 
tricts where  the  coloured  population  is  largest,  such  as  Louisiana, 
Mississippi,  and  South  Carolina.  Townships  are  beginning  to  appear  in 
some  States  and  the  growth  of  education  makes  the  School  Districts 
and  Committees  an  important  factor  in  giving  the  people  interest  in 
local  affairs. 

The  Americans  are  as  a rule  well  satisfied  with  their  system  of 
rural  local  government,  which  in  many  respects  might  serve  as  a 
model  to  Europe,  being  more  free  and  popular  than  that  of  Germany 
or  France  or  Italy,  more  complete  than  that  of  England.  With  their 
municipal  government  on  the  other  hand  the  liveliest  discontent 
exists.  The  larger  cities  especially  have  in  most  cases  fallen  into 
the  hands  of  unscrupulous  gangs  of  adventurers,  commonly  known 
as  Rings,  who  monopolise  the  offices  and  emoluments,  job  the  con- 
tracts for  public  works,  incur  large  debts  for  the  city,  and  in  some 
few  cases  enrich  themselves  by  plundering  the  public  funds,  while 
occasionally  securing  impunity  by  placing  their  creatures  and 
dependents  in  judicial  posts. 

Many  attempts  have  been  made  to  bring  about  reforms  by  chang- 
ing the  frame  of  municipal  government,  but  so  far  no  great  success 
has  been  attained.  The  root  of  the  evil  seems  to  lie  partly  in  the 

d* 


lii 


X.  CONSTITUTION 


presence  in  these  great  cities  of  a vast  multitude  of  ignorant  voters 
— mostly  recent  immigrants  from  Europe  — who,  since  they  pay 
little  or  no  direct  taxation,  have  no  interest  in  economy ; and  partly 
in  the  indifference  of  the  better  class  of  citizens,  who  are  apt  to 
neglect  the  duty  of  voting  at  municipal  elections,  or  when  they  do 
vote  condone  the  faults  of  a Ring  which  professes  to  belong  to  their 
own  political  party.  The  smaller  cities,  down  to  those  with  a popu- 
lation of  from  8000  to  10,000,  present  similar  though  less  glaring 
faults ; and  on  the  whole  it  may  he  said  that  municipal  government 
is  the  one  conspicuous  failure  of  American  democracy. 

Distribution  of  Powers  between  the  Slates  and  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment. When  the  people  of  the  United  States  created  the  Federal 
Government  by  the  adoption  of  the  Constitution,  the  States  retained 
in  their  own  hands  all  power,  authority,  and  jurisdiction  which  was 
not  delegated  to  the  Federal  Government.  Accordingly  the  field  of 
State  action  remains  not  only  wide  but  undefined.  It  includes  the 
maintenance  of  law  and  order  within  the  State,  control  of  the  State 
militia  and  police,  the  organization  of  local  government  both  urban 
and  rural.  The  whole  field  of  ordinary  law  as  weR  civil  as  criminal, 
comprising  the  law  of  marriage  and  other  family  relations,  of  prop- 
erty and  inheritance,  of  contracts  and  torts,  of  offences  at  common 

law  or  otherwise,  is  within  the  scope  of  State  legislation.  So  also 

is  the  law  relating  to  trade  within  the  State,  including  the  law  of 
corporations  and  the  regulation  of  railways  and  canals,  as  well  as 
the  control  of  education,  charities,  the  care  of  the  poor,  and  matters 
pertaining  to  religion.  The  State  courts  have  of  course  a jurisdic- 
tion commensurate  with  the  spheie  of  State  legislation;  i.e.  they  try 
all  causes  arising  under  State  law  and  punish  all  offences  against 
it.  The  State  has  also  an  unlimited  power  of  taxing  all  persons 

and  property  (except  as  hereinafter  mentioned)  within  its  area,  of 

borrowing  money,  and  of  applying  its  funds  as  it  pleases. 

The  powers  and  jurisdiction  of  the  Federal  Government  on  the 
other  hand  are  restricted,  being  those,  and  no  others,  which  have 
been  either  expressly  or  by  implication  conferred  upon  it  by  the 
Federal  Constitution.  They  therefore  admit  of  being  specified  and 


are  the  following. 

Control  of  the  Conduct  of  War. 
Relations  with  Foreign  States. 
Offences  against  International  Law. 
Army  and  Navy. 

Commerce  with  other  Countries  and 
between  the  States, 
with  the  power  of  imposing  and  infl 
with  the  matters  foregoing. 


Post  Offices  and  Post  Roads. 

Patents  and  Copyright. 

Duties  of  Custom  and  Excise. 
Coinage  and  Currency;  Weights  and 
Measures. 

Naturalization ; 

cting  penalties  for  offences  connected 


On  all  these  subjects  the  Federal  Legislature  has  the  exclusive 
right  of  legislating , and  the  Federal  Executive  and  Judiciary  have, 
of  course,  the  right  and  duty  of  enforcing  such  legislation.  There  are 
also  a few  subjects,  including  bankruptcy,  which  the  Federal  Legis- 
lature may  deal  with,  but  which,  if  left  untouched  by  Federal 


AND  GOVERNMENT. 


liii 


Statutes , State  legislation  may  regulate.  There  was  at  one  time  a 
uniform  Federal  bankrupt  law;  at  present  there  is  none,  and  the 
matter  is  regulated  by  each  State  in  its  own  way. 

Besides  this  allotment  and  division  of  power,  the  Constitution 
imposes  certain  restrictions  both  on  the  Federal  Government  and 
on  the  State  Governments.  The  former  is  disabled  from  suspending 
the  writ  of  habeas  corpus  or  passing  an  ex  post  facto  law,  from 
abridging  the  freedom  of  speech  or  of  the  press,  or  the  right  of 
bearing  arms,  from  making  certain  changes  in  legal  procedure,  from 
giving  any  commercial  preference  to  any  particular  State,  from  estab- 
lishing or  prohibiting  any  religion.  Each  State,  on  the  other  hand, 
is  restrained  from  making  any  treaty  or  taking  other  international 
action ; from  coining  money  or  making  anything  but  gold  or  silver 
coin  legal  tender;  passing  any  ex  post  facto  law  or  law  impairing  the 
obligation  of  contracts;  setting  up  any  but  a republican  form  of  Gov- 
ernment; maintaining  slavery;  denying  the  right  of  voting  in  respect 
of  race,  colour,  or  previous  condition  of  servitude;  abridging  the  priv- 
ileges of  a U.  S.  citizen  or  denying  to  any  person  within  its  juris- 
diction the  equal  protection  of  the  laws ; depriving  any  person  of  life, 
liberty,  or  property  without  due  process  of  law.  Neither  can  any 
State,  except  with  the  consent  of  the  Federal  Legislature,  impose  any 
duty  on  exports  or  imports,  or  keep  ships  of  war  or  troops  (except 
its  own  militia)  in  time  of  peace. 

Where  there  is  a doubt  as  to  whether  a particular  power  is 
possessed  by  one  or  other  authority,  the  legal  presumption  is  in 
favour  of  its  being  possessed  by  a State,  because  the  original  States 
were  all  of  them  self-governing  commonwealths  with  a general  power 
over  their  citizens  ; while  the  legal  presumption  is  against  the  Federal 
Government,  because  the  powers  it  has  received  have  been  enumerat- 
ed in  the  Federal  Constitution.  However  it  is  not  deemed  necessary 
that  these  powers  should  have  been  all  expressly  mentioned.  It  is 
sufficient  if  they  arise  by  necessary  inference. 

Structure  of  the  Federal  Government . The  Federal  Government 
consists  of  three  departments  or  organs,  which  the  Constitution  has 
endeavored  to  keep  distinct : viz.,  the  Legislature,  the  Executive,  and 
the  Judiciary.  The  powers  of  these  three  extend  over  every  part  of 
the  country  alike,  but  of  course  touch  those  matters  only  which  lie 
within  the  purview  and  competence  of  the  Federal  Government. 

The  Legislature.  The  Federal  Legislature,  called  Congress,  consists 
of  two  chambers  — the  Senate  and  the  House  of  Representatives.  The 
Senate  is  composed  of  two  persons  from  each  State  : i.  e.,  at  present 
of  90  persons,  and  is  presided  over  by  the  Vice-President  of  the 
United  States.  Senators  are  chosen  in  each  State  by  the  legislature 
thereof,  a circumstance  which  has  largely  contributed  to  cause  those 
bodies  themselves  to  be  elected  on  the  lines  of  the  great  national 
parties.  Each  senator  sits  for  six  years,  and  one-third  of  the  body  go 
out  of  office  every  two  years,  being  of  course  re-eligible.  The  Senate, 


Uv 


X.  CONSTITUTION 


besides  its  legislative  powers,  which  are  equal  to  those  of  the  House 
(except  in  one  point,  viz.:  that  Money  Bills  must  originate  in  the 

House),  has  also  two  important  executive  powers.  One  of  these  is 
the  right  of  appro’^ing  or  rejecting  nominations  to  office  made  hy  the 
President  a right  which  is  freely  exercised  except  as  regards  Cabinet 
offices  which  custom  leaves  entirely  within  the  President  s discre- 
tion The  other  is  the  power  of  approving  treaties,  which  must  he 
submitted  by  the  President  to  the  Senate  and  are  not  valid  until 
ratified  by  a majority  of  two-thirds  of  the  Senators  present.  The  Senate 
has  also  the  judicial  power  of  sitting  as  a High  Court  to  try  mpeach- 
ments  preferred  by  the  House  of  Representatives  against  the  Pre^dent 
or  any  other  of  the  great  officials,  including  the  Federal  Judges  When 
the  Senate  sits  in  this  capacity  the  Chief  Justice  of  the  United  States 
presides.  A majority  of  two-thirds  is  required  for  conviction  Andrew 
Johnson  is  the  only  President  who  has  ever  been  impeached 
and  in  his  case  the  requisite  majority  was  not  obtained. 

The  post  of  Senator,  being  dignified,  powerful,  and  comparatively 
permanent,  is  much  sought  after  and  is  indeed  the  chief  object  of 
ambition  to  successful  members  of  Congress  or  pushing  State  politi- 
cians. It  is  these  attractions  rather  than  the  method  of  indirect  elec- 
tion by  the  State  legislatures,  which  have  drawn  so  much  political 
ability  into  the  Senate.  At  present  many  of  the  Senators  are  men  of 
great  wealth  and  some  of  them  are  accused  of  having  made  their  way 
into  it  chiefly  by  their  wealth,  the  State  legislatures  being  not  infre- 
quently open  to  this  kind  of  influence.  It  has  often  been  proposed 
to  vest  the  election  directly  in  the  people  of  each  State,  and  P^cbably 
this  would  be  a better  method  than  the  present.  Although  the  States 
differ  vastly  in  size  and  importance,  the  Senators  from  the  small  States 
exert  as  much  influence  as  those  from  the  greatest,  being  indeed 
often  superior  in  ability  to  the  latter. 

The  House  of  Representatives  consists  at  present  of  dob  persons 
elected  by  districts  of  nearly  equal  size,  the  boundaries  of  the  dis- 
tricts being  in  each  State  determined  by  State  legislation.  The  mem- 
bers are  elected  for  two  years,  elections  being  always 
November  of  a year  bearing  an  even  number;  e.g.  1900,  19U4,  1900. 
Members  are  almost  invariably  chosen  from  the  district  in  which 
they  reside.  Like  the  Senators,  they  receive  a salary  of  $ 5UUU  a year, 
besides  mileage  (travelling  expenses).  They  are  (esrecially  in  the 
North  and  West)  less  frequently  re-elected  than  is  the  case  with 
Senators ; and  it  generally  happens  that  about  one-half  of  the  members 
of  each  House  have  not  sat  in  the  preceding  House.  Usually  more  than 
half  of  the  members  belong  to  the  legal  profession,  though  mmy  ot 

these  do  not  practise  law.  Although  elected  in  November,  a new  House 

does  not  come  into  existence  till  the  4th  March  following  and  is  sel- 
dom summoned  by  the  President  to  meet  until  the  December  of  the 
same  year.  The  first  function  of  a House  is  to  choose  its  Speaker  who 
always  belongs  to  the  majority  and  is  permitted  to  use  all  the  func- 


AND  GOVERNMENT. 


Iv 


tions  of  the  Chair  in  the  interests  of  his  party.  Having  a large  control 
over  the  conduct  of  business  and  the  function  of  nominating  all  the 
committees  of  the  House  and  assigning  to  each  its  chairman,  his  power 
is  very  great.  All  bills  are  referred  after  second  reading,  which  is 
given  as  a matter  of  course,  to  one  of  the  standing  committees,  of 
which  there  are  usually  at  least  fifty,  each  of  from  3 to  16  members, 
and  if  reported  back  by  the  committee  is  considered  in  committee  of 
the  whole  House  when  time  can  be  found  for  the  purpose.  As  the 
number  of  bills  brought  into  each  Congress  now  reaches  or  exceeds 
twenty  thousand,  many  are  not  reported  back,  and  a great  many  more 
are  never  taken  up,  or  if  taken  up  are  not  completed,  by  the  House. 
The  chairmanships  of  the  chief  committees  such  as  those  on  Ways  and 
Means,  Appropriations,  Rivers  and  Harbours,  Foreign  Relations,  and 
Judiciary,  are  important  posts  which  carry  great  infiuence  and  are 
much  desired  by  leading  men.  There  are  also  a considerable  number 
of  select  committees  appointed  from  time  to  time  to  deal  with  special 
questions.  (A  similar  system  of  Committees  prevails  in  the  Senate, 
where,  however,  the  Committees  are  appointed  not  by  the  presiding 
officer  but  by  the  Senate  itself.)  The  House  has  a power  of  closing 
its  debates  and  coming  to  a division  by  voting  the  ‘previous  question’, 
and  uses  this  power  freely.  In  the  Senate  no  similar  power  exists. 
In  each  body  the  presence  of  one-half  of  the  total  number  is  re- 
quired to  make  a quorum. 

Both  the  Senate  and  the  House  have  the  power  of  holding  secret 
sessions ; and  this  power  is  frequently  exercised  by  the  former,  espe- 
cially when  the  confirmation  of  appointments  is  under  consideration. 

Although  Congress  attempts  much,  it  accomplishes  comparatively 
little.  The  opportunities  for  delaying  business  are  manifold;  there  is 
little  recognized  leadership,  and  therefore  many  cross-currents ; the 
two  Houses  often  differ,  throwing  out  or  amending  in  material  points 
one  another’s  bills.  In  these  conflicts  the  Senate  more  often  prevails 
than  the  House  does,  because  it  is  a smaller  and  on  the  whole  a better 
organized  body.  There  is  little  direct  corruption  in  either  House,  but 
a good  deal  of  demagogism  and  of  what  is  called  Tog-rolling’,  this 
form  of  evil  being  extended  by  the  enormous  number  of  bills  relating 
to  particular  persons,  places,  or  undertakings,  which  are  promoted  in 
the  interests  of  private  individuals  and  are  pushed  by  the  miscellaneous 
crowd  of  unrecognized  agents  called  the  ‘Lobby’.  In  each  House  each 
of  the  great  parties  is  in  the  habit  of  holding  from  time  to  time  party 
meetings  to  determine  its  policy  in  the  House,  and  the  decisions  of 
the  majority  at  such  meetings  are  deemed  binding  on  the  members 
and  usually  obeyed.  This  is  called  ‘going  into  caucus’. 

The  Executive.  The  President  of  the  United  States  is  chosen  by 
persons  who  are  elected  in  each  Stgje  for  that  purpose  and  that  purpose 
only.  In  every  State  the  voters  (i.e.  the  same  voters  as  those  who  elect 
members  of  Congress)  elect  on  the  Tuesday  after  the  first  Monday  in 
November  every  fourth  year  a number  of  Presidential  electors  equal  to 


Ivl 


X.  CONSTITUTION 


the  total  representation  of  the  State  in  Congress  (i.e.  two  Senators  plus 
so  many  members  of  the  House  of  Representatives).  Thus  New  York 
has  36  Presidential  Electors,  Pennsylvania  32,  Delaware  and  five  other 
small  States  only  three  each.  These  Electors  meet  subsequently  and 
vote  for  the  President.  Should  no  person  voted  for  receive  a majority 
of  the  votes  of  all  the  electors  appointed,  the  choice  of  a President 
goes  over  to  the  House  of  Representatives,  which  elects  by  States,  each 
State  having  one  vote  only,  and  an  absolute  majority  being  required. 
Although  it  was  originally  intended  that  the  Presidential  electors 
should  be  free  to  choose  whatever  person  they  thought  best,  it  has  long 
since  become  the  rule  that  they  shall  vote  lor  the  candidate  nom- 
inated by  the  party  which  has  chosen  them  as  electors ; and  they  are 
in  fact  nothing  more  than  a contrivance  by  which  the  people,  that  is, 
the  party  which  commands  a majority  of  votes,  chooses  the  President. 
However,  as  the  election  takes  place  by  States,  and  as  even  a very 
small  popular  majority  in  a particular  state  can  throw  the  whole  elec- 
toral vote  of  that  State  for  one  candidate,  while  in  one  or  more 
other  States  a very  large  popular  majority  can  do  no  more  than  throw 
the  electoral  vote  of  the  State  for  the  other  candidate,  it  sometimes 
happens  that  the  candidate  who  gets  the  majority  of  the  electors’  votes, 
and  is  therefore  chosen,  has  not  obtained  a majority  of  the  total  pop- 
ular votes  cast.  Another  consequence  of  this  device  is  that  whereas 
the  contest  is  always  very  keen  in  States  where  parties  are  equally 
balanced,  it  is  quite  languid  where  one  party  is  known  to  have  a 
majority,  because  the  greater  or  smaller  size  of  that  majority  makes 

no  difference  in  the  general  result  over  the  whole  Union.  The  Presiden- 
tial electors  are  now  usually  chosen  by  a popular  vote  all  over  each 
State,  but  they  were  at  one  time  chosen  by  the  State  Legislatures, 
and  also  for  a time,  in  many  States,  by  districts.  Michigan  has  recently 
reintroduced  the  district  plan. 

The  President  must  be  thirty-five  years  of  age  and  a native 
citizen  of  the  United  States.  He  is  legally  re-eligible  any  number 
of  times,  but  custom  (dating  from  George  Washington)  has  estab- 
lished the  rule  that  he  must  not  be  re-elected  more  than  once.  He 
receives  a salary  of  $50,000  (10,000^.). 

The  President’s  executive  duties  are  of  five  kinds : 

(a) .  He  is  commander- in- chief  of  the  Army  and  Navy  (and  of 
State  militia  when  in  Federal  service)  and  commissions  all  officers. 

(b) .  He  appoints  all  the  chief  and  many  minor  officials,  but  the 
consent  of  the  Senate  is  required,  and  is  sometimes  withheld,  except 
to  what  are  called  Cabinet  offices. 

(c) .  He  has  a general  supervision  over  the  whole  Federal  adminis- 
tration and  the  duty  of  seeing  that  the  (Federal)  laws  are  duly 
executed.  Should  disorder  arise  anywhere  which  the  State  authorities 
are  unable  to  suppress,  they  may  invoke  his  aid  to  restore  tranquillity. 

(d) .  He  conducts  the  foreign  policy  of  the  nation,  and  negotiates 


AND  GOVERNMENT. 


Ivii 


treaties,  which,  however,  require  the  approval  of  the  Senate.  The 
power  of  declaring  war  rests  with  Congress. 

(e).  He  may  recommend  measures  to  Congress,  and  has  the  right, 
when  a hill  passed  hy  Congress  is  sent  to  him,  of  returning  it  with 
his  objections.  If  in  both  Houses  of  Congress  it  is  again  passed  by  a 
majority  of  two-thirds  in  each  House,  it  becomes  law  notwithstanding 
his  objections  j if  not,  it  is  lost.  This  so-called  Veto  power  has  been 
laTgely  exercised,  especially  by  recent  Presidents.  Between  1884  and 
1888  no  fewer  than  304 bills,  most  of  them  private  or  personal  bills 
were  vetoed,  and  very  few  were  repassed  over  the  veto.  ’ 

The  Administration  or  Cabinet  consists  at  present  of  nine  min- 
isters, viz.:  Secretary  of  State  (who  has  the  conduct  of  foreign 
affairs) , Secretary  of  the  Treasury  (Finance  Minister) , Secretary  of 
War,  Attorney  General  (Minister  of  Federal  justice  as  well  as  legal 
adviser),  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  Postmaster  General,  Secretary  of  the 
Interior  (with  charge  of  Indian  Affairs , of  the  management  of  the 
public  lands,  and  of  pensions).  Secretary  of  Agriculture,  Secretary 
of  Commerce  and  Labour.  None  of  these,  nor  any  other  officer  of  the 
Government,  can  sit  in  Congress.  They  are  appointed  and  dismissible 
by  the  President,  and  are  primarily  responsible  to  him  rather  than  to 
Congress,  which  can  get  rid  of  them  only  by  impeachment,  a process 
applicable  rather  to  specific  offences  than  to  incompeteiice , and  not 
applicable  at  all  to  mere  divergence  of  policy  from  that  which  the  major- 
ity of  Congress  desires.  The  Cabinet  is  therefore  something  quite  dif- 
ferent from  what  is  called  a cabinet  in  European  countries.  It  does 
not  relieve  the  President  of  responsibility;  he  may  consult  it  as  much 
or  as  little  as  he  pleases,  and  he  need  not  be  guided  by  its  advice. 

The  Federal  Judiciary.  There  are  four  sets  of  Federal  Courts : 

(a) .  The  District  Courts , 82  in  number,  in  which  the  District 
Judges  sit,  receiving  salaries  of  $ 6000. 

(b) .  The  Circuit  Courts,  held  in  the  nine  judicial  circuits,  and 
served  by  the  Circuit  judges,  now  27  in  number  (salary  $ 7000), 
together  with  a judge  of  the  Supreme  Court,  one  such  judge  being 
allotted  to  each  circuit. 

(c) .  The  Circuit  Courts  of  Appeal,  entertaining  appeals  from 
the  District  or  Circuit  Courts. 

(d) .  The  Supreme  Court,  consisting  of  a Chief  Justice  and 
eight  puisne  justices  who  sit  at  Washington  and  have  original  juris- 
diction in  cases  affecting  ambassadors,  or  where  a State  is  a party  to 
the  suit.  In  other  cases  they  are  a Court  of  Appeal  from  inferior 
Federal  Courts.  The  salary  is  $ 12,500  ($  J 3,000  for  the  Chief  Justice). 

All  these  judges  are  appointed  by  the  President  with  the  consent 
of  the  Senate,  and  hold  office  for  life,  unless  removed  by  impeach- 
ment. Only  four  have  ever  been  impeached,  and  two  of  these  were 
acquitted.  A place  on  the  Supreme  Bench  is  much  desired  and 
prized ; and  the  permanence  of  tenure  secures  a pretty  high  average 


Iviii 


X.  CONSTITUTION 


of  knowledge  and  capacity,  considering  the  smallness  of  the  salaries 
paid  also  in  the  inferior  Federal  courts. 

The  jurisdiction  of  the  Federal  Courts  extends  over  the  whole 
Union,  hut  is  limited  to  certain  classes  of  cases,  civil  and  criminal, 
the  most  important  whereof  are  the  following. 

Cases  affecting  ambassadors  and  other  foreign  ministers,  cases  of 
admiralty  and  maritime  jurisdiction , controversies  to  which  the 
United  States  shall  be  a party,  controversies  between  States,  or 
between  citizens  of  different  States,  or  between  a State,  or  any  of 
its  citizens,  and  any  foreign  State  or  its  subjects  or  citizens,  cases 
arising  under  the  Federal  Constitution,  or  some  law  or  treaty  duly 
made  by  the  Federal  government.  If,  as  frequently  happens  in  the 
three  last-mentioned  sets  of  cases,  the  action  has  begun  in  a State 
Court,  there  is  a full  right  to  have  it  removed  into  a Federal  Court, 
and  this  may  be  done  even  in  an  action  which  was  supposed  to^  in- 
volve questions  of  State  Law  only,  if  in  the  course  of  the  proceedings 
some  point  of  Federal  Law  arises.  The  result  is  to  secure  to  the 
Federal  Courts  the  cognizance  not  only  of  all  international  and  inter- 
state questions,  but  also  of  all  those  which  in  any  way  depend  upon 
Federal  Legislation.  Thus  the  arm  of  the  National  Government  is 
extended  over  the  whole  Union,  each  Federal  Court  having  an  officer 
called  the  U.S.  Marshal  to  execute  its  judgments,  and  being  entitled 
to  demand ‘the  aid  of  the  local  authorities  in  case  of  resistance. 

There  is  nothing  special  or  peculiar  in  the  powers  of  the  Supreme 
Court,  or  of  the  American  Federal  Courts  generally ; nor  have  they, 
as  is  sometimes  supposed,  a right  to  review  and  annul  the  acts  either 
of  Congress  or  of  the  State  Legislatures.  The  importance  of  their 
functions  arises  from  the  fact  that  in  the  United  States  the  Consti- 
tution is  the  supreme  law  of  the  land  everywhere,  so  that  if  any 
Statute  passed  by  Congress,  or  any  Constitution  enacted  by  a State, 
or  any  Statute  passed  by  a State  Legislature,  conflicts  with  the 
Federal  Constitution,  such  Statute  or  State  Constitution  is  as  a 
matter  of  law  invalid  and  null,  and  must  be  treated  as  such  by  all 
persons  concerned.  The  authorities  whose  function  it  is  to  ascertain 
and  determine  whether  it  does  or  does  not  conflict  with  the  Federal 
Constitution  are  the  Courts  of  Law;  and  as  the  Supreme  Federal 
Court  is  the  highest  court  of  appeal  in  all  questions  involving  the 
Federal  Constitution,  all  important  and  difficult  cases  are  carried 
to  it  and  its  decision  is  final.  The  Courts,  and  especially  the  Supreme 
Court,  of  each  State  exercise  a similar  function  in  cases  where  a 
State  Statute  is  alleged  to  be  in  conflict  with  a State  Constitution,  the 
latter,  of  course,  as  being  a law  of  higher  degree,  prevailing  agaimt 
the  former.  No  court,  however,  pronounces  upon  the  validity  of  a 
law  unless  in  an  action  or  other  regular  legal  proceeding  between 
parties , for  the  decision  of  which  it  becomes  necessary  to  settle 
whether  or  no  the  law  is  valid.  (In  a few  States,  the  Governor  or 
the  Legislature  may  consult  the  Supreme  Court  on  constitutional 


AND  GOVERNMENT 


lix 


points,  but  the  opinions  so  given  by  a Court  are  not  deemed  to  be 
binding  like  a judgment  in  an  action.)  As  in  all  questions  of  Federal 
Law  the  State  Courts  are  bound  to  follow  and  apply  the  decisions 
of  the  Federal  Courts,  so  also  in  all  questions  of  State  Law,  when 
these  come  before  a Federal  Court,  such  Court  ought  to  follow  and 
apply  the  decisions  of  the  highest  court  of  the  particular  State  in 
question.  That  is  to  say,  the  Federal  Courts  are  not  higher  than  the 
State  Courts,  but  have  a different  sphere  of  action,  nor  are  they, 
except  as  regards  questions  arising  under  the  Federal  Constitution, 
called  to  overrule  decisions  of  the  State  Courts. 

General  Working  of  the  Federal  Government,  The  salient  feature 
of  the  Federal  or  national  Government  is  that  it  consists  of  three  de  - 
partments,  each  designed  to  work  independently  of  the  other  two. 
Thus  the  Federal  Executive,  the  President  and  his  Ministers,  are 
independent  of  Congress.  The  President  is  elected  (indirectly)  by 
the  people,  and  cannot  be  displaced  by  Congress  (except  by  impeach- 
ment). The  Ministers  are  appointed  by  the  President,  and  cannot 
be  dismissed  by  Congress  nor  even  restrained  in  their  action,  except 
in  so  far  as  legislation  may  operate  to  restrain  them ; and  as  Congress 
is  debarred  from  intruding  into  certain  administrative  details,  its 
legislation  cannot  reach  these.  The  President  cannot  dissolve  Con- 
gress, which  is  elected  for  a fixed  period,  and  cannot  check  its 
legislation,  if  there  is  a majority  of  two-thirds  against  him  in  both 
Houses.  The  conduct  of  foreign  affairs,  however,  and  the  making 
of  appointments  belong  partly  to  him  and  partly  to  the  Senate,  so 
that  in  this  sphere  he  and  one  branch  of  Congress  are  closely  asso- 
ciated. The  third  department,  the  Judiciary,  is  independent  of  the 
other  two,  for  though  its  members  are  appointed  by  the  President 
with  the  consent  of  the  Senate,  they  cannot  be  ejected  from  office 
except  by  impeachment.  All  these  departments  are  deemed  to  derive 
their  respective  powers  directly  from  the  people.  Congress  and  the 
President  by  election,  the  Judges  from  the  Constitution  which  the 
people  enacted  and  which  it  is  their  duty  to  interpret.  Thus  the 
principle  of  Popular  Sovereignty  is  consistently  carried  out.  That 
principle  is,  however,  even  more  conspicuous  in  the  State  Govern- 
ments, because  in  them  not  only  are  all  the  leading  officials  directly 
elected  by  the  people,  and  (in  the  great  majority  of  the  States)  the 
judges  also,  but  also  because  the  people  constantly  legislate  directly 
(without  the  intervention  of  the  State  Legislatures)  by  enacting  State 
constitutions  or  constitutional  amendments.  Although,  however,  in 
this  aspect  the  Federal  Government  (and  still  more  the  State  Govern- 
ments) may  appear  to  be  very  democratic,  the  following  important 
restrictions  have  been  provided  to  prevent  sudden  or  violent  change, 
(a)  The  Legislature,  which  is  the  strongest  power,  is  divided  into  two 
coordinate  and  jealous  houses,  (b)  The  Legislature  is  further  restrained 
by  the  veto  of  the  President,  (c)  The  Legislature  is  limited  to  certain 
subjects  and  disabled  from  certain  kinds  of  action,  (d)  The  President 


lx 


X.  CONSTITUTION 


is  held  in  check  by  Congress,  which  can  refuse  money,  and  by  the 
Senate  in  foreign  affairs  and  appointments,  (e)  He  has,  moreoYer,  only 
a very  small  standing  army  at  his  disposal. 

Conjoint  Working  of  the  Federal  and  State  Governments.  Al- 
though the  Federal  Government  is  in  constant  action  by  its  laws, 
its  officials,  and  its  judges  over  the  territory  included  in  the  States, 
comparatively  little  friction  arises  between  the  two  sets  of  author- 
ities. As  respects  elections,  all  State  elections  are  conducted  under 
State  laws.  Federal  elections  to  some  extent  under  Federal  laws,  so 
far  as  these  have  prescribed  certain  rules,  but  chiefly  under  State  laws, 
because  Congress  has  left  many  points  untouched.  As  regards  finance, 
all  direct  taxation  is  imposed  by  the  State  Legislatures,  while  the 
Federal  Government  raises  its  revenue  by  duties  of  customs  and  ex- 
cise. The  chief  difficulties  which  have  been  felt  of  late  years  are  con- 
nected with  the  divergences  of  law  between  the  different  States,  espe- 
cially as  regards  marriage  and  divorce,  and  with  the  control  of  com- 
merce and  the  organs  of  transportation,  especially  railroads.  The  Fed- 
eral Government  can  legislate  only  with  regard  to  trade  between  the 
States  and  to  navigable  waters  within  more  than  one  State  and  rail- 
roads so  far  as  they  carry  traffic  between  States.  Many  intricate  prob- 
lems have ’arisen  as  to  the  respective  scope  of  Federal  and  State 
action  on  such  matters  ^ but  these  have,  since  the  Civil  War,  been 
peaceably  adjusted  by  the  Courts  as  interpreters  of  the  Constitution. 

Extra-State  Dominions  of  the  United  States.  Washington,  the 
capital  of  the  Union,  stands  in  a piece  of  ground  comprising  TO  sq.  M. 
which  has  been  set  apart  as  the  seat  of  Federal  Government,  and 
is  governed  by  three  Commissioners  appointed  by  the  President.  It 
is  called  the  Federal  District  of  Columbia.  Alaska  (purchased  from 
Russia  in  1867)  is  also  directly  governed  by  Federal  officials  (named 
by  the  President)  and  by  statutes  of  Congress.  As  its  population  origi- 
nally consisted  almost  entirely  of  semi- civilized  or  savage  Indians,  it 
has  not  as  yet  received  any  share  in  the  government  of  the  Union  (comp, 
p.  600).  The  same  remark  applies  to  the  Indian  Territory  lying  to  the 
W.  of  the  State  of  Arkansas,  where,  however,  the  principal  Indian 
tribes  have  made  great  progress  in  education  and  settled  habits.  F 

There  are  also  three  Territories  (Arizona,  New  Mexico,  and 
Oklahoma).  The  Union  is  a union  of  States  only,  and  these  districts 
have  not  yet  been  admitted  to  the  dignity  of  Statehood.  Each  Terris 
tory  enjoys  local  self-government,  having  a legislature  of  two  House- 
which  can  pass  Statutes,  subject,  however,  to  the  unrestricted 
authority  of  Congress  to  annul  them  and  legislate  directly.  In  each 
of  these  there  is  a Governor  appointed  by  the  President;  and  part  of 
the  law  in  force  has  been  directly  enacted  by  Congress. 

Each  Territory  sends  a delegate  to  the  Federal  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives who  is  allowed  to  speak  but  not  to  vote. 

^ It  seems  highly  probable  that  Indian  Territory  und  Oklahoma  will 
soon  be  combined  to  form  a State  of  the  Union  (comp.  p.  518). 


AND  GOVERNMENT. 


Ixi 


Practical  Working  of  the  Government.  The  Party  System.  The 
character  of  the  political  institutions  of  the  country  has  been  so  largely 
affected  by  the  political  parties  that  a few  words  regarding  their 
organization  and  methods  are  needed  in  order  to  understand  the  actual 
working  of  the  Government 

Since  the  adoption  of  the  Federal  Constitution  in  1788-89,  the 
people  of  the  United  States  have  been,  except  for  a few  years  ffrom 
about  1818  till  1826),  pretty  sharply  divided  into  two  parties.  Oc- 
casionally, three  or  even  four  parties  have  appeared ; these,  however 
have  been  short-lived.  From  1789  till  1818  the  two  great  parties 
were  the  Federalists  and  (Democratic)  Republicans;  the  Federalists 
then  disappeared,  while  from  about  1830  till  1854  the  Republicans, 
simply  Democrats,  were  opposed  by  a party  called  Whigs. 
In  1856  a new  party  who  took  the  name  of  Republicans  came  into  be- 
ing, carried  the  Presidential  Election  of  1860  and  have  continued 
until  now  contending  with  the  Democrats.  Minor  present  parties  are 
the  Prohibitionists  and  the  so-called  ‘Populists’  or  People’s  Party 
(comp.  Section  ix  ofintrod.).  Both  the  two  great  parties  have  created 
and  maintain  themselves  by  exceedingly  strong  and  well  ordered 
organizations,  existing  over  the  whole  country  as  a body  of  political 
machinery  far  more  effective  than  has  ever  been  seen  elsewhere. 
The  causes  which  have  made  such  machinery  necessary  are  chiefly 
these  three. 

Elections  are  very  numerous , because  aU  the  chief  State  and 
City  officials  and  all  members  of  representative  assemblies  are  chosen 
by  the  people  and  chosen  for  short  terms.  Even  those  official  posts 
which  are  not  directly  conferred  by  popular  vote,  such  as  all  the 
Federal  offices,  are  usually  held  at  the  pleasure  of  the  President  or 
some  other  high  official,  who  has  for  the  last  sixty  years  been  accus- 
tomed to  appoint  members  of  his  own  party  to  them,  dismissing  those 
whom  he  finds  on  coming  into  power,  if  they  belong  to  the  opposite 
party.  The  desire  to  have  or  to  retain  these  posts  furnishes  a strong 
personal  motive  for  exertion  on  behalf  of  a party,  because  one’s 
livelihood  may  depend  upon  it.  Moreover  the  social  equality  which 
prevails  generally  in  America  prevents  the  masses  from  being  dis- 
posed to  follow  men  conspicuous  by  rank,  wealth,  or  intelligence,  and 
makes  it  necessary  to  have  organizations  in  order  to  supply  the  ab- 
sence of  that  spontaneous  allegiance  and  natural  grouping  which  do 
parties  together  socially  in  the  free  countries  of  the 
Old  World.  As  there  are  in  the  United  States  comparatively  few 
persons  with  sufficient  leisure  to  devote  themselves  to  political  work 
irom  purely  public  motives,  it  has  been  thought  necessary  that  this 
work  should  be  done  by  those  who  have  a pecuniary  interest  in  the 
success  of  their  party ; and  these  persons,  making  such  work  their 
profession,  have  been  able  to  carry  this  political  machine  to  an  un- 
precedented point  of  effectiveness. 

In  every  local  area  which  elects  an  official  or  a representative 


X.  CONSTITUTION 

rsaoh  as  a City  Ward  or  a Rural  Township)  each  of  the  two  great 
partL  has  a local  association  which  selects  from  the 
Lrs  of  the  party  a candidate  to  he  run  for  every  electave  post  or  office 
at  the  next  election.  The  meeting  of  the  local  members 
which  makes  this  selection  is  called  a Primary  Meeting.  Where  an 
election  is  to  take  place  for  a wider  area  (such  as  a Coiigressional  dis- 
trict or  a State  Assembly  district,  or  a City) 

bv  a party  meeting  called  a Convention,  consisting  of  delegates  from 
A ^the  primaries  within  that  area.  Where  *1^®  ®lf  t!®®  ® 

President  of  the  United  States,  the  party  candidate  is  selected  by  a 

very  large  body  called  the  National  Nominating  Convention,  consisting 

of  delegates  cLsen  by  Conventions  held  in  the  several  States  The 
number  of  delegates  to  this  greatest  of  aU  Conventions  is  double  that 
number  of  Presidential  electors  plus  two  delegates  from  each 

Ver/rarely  does  any  candidate  offer  himself  for  election  to  any 
post  uffiess  he  has  been  selected  by  a Primary  or  a Convention  as 
the  party  candidate.  Sometimes,  however,  in  local  ®’®®*‘°®® 
ally  ffi  cffies)  a third  organization  is  created  in  of  a 

election  or  group  of  elections,  which  nominates  what  is  called  an 
‘Independent’  or^ ‘Citizens’  candidate,  outside  ^*?®/®S®^“ 
izations  of  the  two  great  parties.  •^®'i ’"^®®  ® 

fsuch  as  the  Prohibitionists  or  the  so-called  People  s Party)  ®-  , 

it  establishes  in  that  part  of  the  country  where 
strength,  an  organization  like  that  of  the  Democrats  or  the  Repubii 
cans ; and  nominates  its  candidates  in  the  same  way.  rea  ^ P 
tanceis  attached  to  ‘getting  the  nomination , because  ® '®5°®  ®®“^® 
of  voters  in  each  party  are  disposed  (especially  in  great  cities)  to 
here  to  the  candidate  whom  the  organization  has  ®’i®®?®>  ^ 
atively  little  regard  either  to  the  precise  shade  of  his  opinions  or 
his  inLllectual  capacity.  Great  pains  are  therefore  ®® 

ing  the  nomination,  and  where  there  are  two  local  / 

party,  the  strife  between  them  over  the  nomination  is  often  more  ffitter 
ffian  that  between  the  hostUe  parties.  Bribery,  P®'^®°®®*“®> 
physical  violence  are  sometimes  resorted  to  in  order  to  carry  eimmina 
tion  of  delegates  in  a Primary  or  of  candidates  in  ® ^®'®^®^®“  ® 
ventlon;  so  that  in  many  States  it  has  f'®®®/®®'®®^.®*®^^„^“ 
laws  for  regulating  these  party  meetings  ®®'f  P^^f  ®®*“® 
unfairness  in  connection  with  them.  So,  also,  when  the  ®o®*®l  ®f 
nomination  for  the  Presidency  lies  between  two  promment  and  popular 
party  leaders,  the  Convention  is  a scene  not  only  of  active  and  p 
tracted  intrigue  behind  the  scenes,  but  of  passionate  excitement  du 

ThVsystem  of  party  machinery,  and  the  habit  which  the  voters 
have  of  supporting  those  candidates  only  whom  the  official  machine 
nominates,  have  become  one  of  the  main  causes  of  misgovernment 
in  the  largest  cities.  In  those  cities  there  is  a large  poor  and  com- 


AND  GOVERNMENT.  ‘ 


Ixiii 


paratively  ignorant  multitude  which,  since  it  pays  an  exceedingly 
small  part  of  the  local  taxation,  has  a very  slight  interest  in  econo- 
mical and  prudent  administration.  It  falls  easily  under  the  dominion 
of  leaders  belonging  to  its  own  class  who  care  little  for  real  political 
issues,  hut  make  their  living  out  of  the  city  offices  and  the  op- 
portunities  of  enrichment  which  such  offices  supply,  and  it  votes 
hlindly  for  the  candidates  whom  those  leaders,  through  their  con- 
trol  of  the  organization,  put  forward  as  the  ‘regular  party  candi- 
dates  These  candidates  are,  of  course,  in  league  with  the  men  who 
run  the  machine  ; and  when  they  obtain  office,  they  reward  their 
supporters  hy  posts  in  their  gift,  sometimes  also  by  securing  for  them 
impunity  from  punishment,  for  in  the  lower  parts  of  some  cities  the 
nominating  machinery  has  fallen  into  the  grasp  of  cliques  which  if 
not  actually  criminal,  occasionally  use  criminals  as  their  tools.  An- 
other source  of  the  strength  of  these  dangerous  elements  in  politics 
has  lam  in  the  profuse  use  of  money.  Bribery  has  been  not  uncommon, 
both  in  City,  State,  Congressional,  and  Presidential  elections.  Efforts 
however,  which  seem  likely  to  he  successful,  have  lately  been  made 
to  repress  it  by  the  adoption  in  nearly  all  the  States  of  laws  creat- 
ing a really  secret  ballot.  Some  States  have  also  sought  to  limit 
election  expenditure ; and  it  may  be  said  generally  that  the  spirit  of 
reform  IS  actively  at  work  upon  all  that  relates  to  the  election  system 
Intimidation  is  rare,  except  in  the  Southern  States,  where  it  is  still 
occasionally,  though  much  more  rarely  than  twenty  years  ago,  prac- 
tised upon  the  negroes.  Seeing  that  the  great  majority  of  the  negro 
voters  are  illiterate  and  possessed  of  little  political  knowledge,  white 
men  otherwise  fnendly  to  the  coloured  people  justify  both  this  and  the 
more  frequent  use  of  various  tricks  and  devices  as  the  only  remedies 
against  the  evils  which  might  follow  the  predominance  of  the  coloured 
vote  in  those  States,  where  the  whites  are  in  a minority. 

As  visitop  from  Europe,  who  usually  spend  most  of  their  time  in 
the  ^eat  cities,  are  apt  to  overestimate  these  blemishes  in  the  dem- 
ocratic institutions  of  the  U.  S.,  it  is  well  to  observe  that  they  are 
far  from_  prevailing  over  the  whole  country,  that  they  are  not  a ne- 
cessary incident  to  democratic  institutions  but  largely  due  to  causes 

tliat  they  do  not  prevent  the  govern- 
nt  both  of  the  Nation  and  of  the  States  from  being,  on  the  whole, 
efficient  and  popular,  conformable  to  the  wishes  of  the  people  and 
~ Established  Church  in  the 

anv  oua  , 1®  •’  “'‘"y  preference  given  by  the  law  of  any  State  to 

any  one  religious  body  over  any  other  body,  although  such  was  for- 

J?®  ® ®®'p®  ™ ^®  “d  might  be  now  enacted,  so  far  as 

States  ba  ’ js  concerned,  in  any  State.  However  all  the 

eouaBtv  P''®"®““®®d  'n  favour  of  absolute  religious 

stitiitioL  ® provision  in  their  respective  con- 

1“®®*'®"®  relating  to  the  temporalities  of  any  ec- 
clesiastical body  or  person  come  before  the  courts  of  law,  they  are 


XI.  ABORIGINES 


Ixiv 

dealt  with  hy  the  ordinary  law  like  other  questions  of  contract  and 
property.  Religious  feeling  seldom  enters  into  political  strife,  and  there 
is  a general  desire  to  prevent  its  intrusion  either  inEederal  or  in  State 
matters . 


XI.  Aborigines  and  Aboriginal  Remains, 

by 

Professor  O.  T.  Mason^ 
of  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 

The  aboriginal  history  of  the  United  States  divides  itself  into 
two  chapters,  the  Archaeologic  and  the  Ethnographic,  The  former 
relates  to  a period  about  whose  beginning  there  is  much  dispute  and 
whose  close  shades  into  the  latter  imperceptibly.  The  ethnographic 
chapter  opens  with  the  romantic  adventures  of  Ponce  de  Leon  ^p.  44  0 
in  Florida  with  the  Timucua  Indians  and  is  not  yet  closed. 

I.  Archaeology.  The  archaeologist  from  abroad  will  find  in  the 
United  States  no  such  imposing  ruins  as  meet  his  eyes  everywhere 
in  the  Old  World.  Not  even  with  Mexico  or  Central  America  or 
Peru  can  the  ruins  scattered  over  the  Federal  Republic  enter  into 
competition.  The  same  is  true  of  the  age  of  these  relics.  It  has  been 
both  alleged  and  disputed  with  vehemence,  and  that  by  eminent 
authorities  on  both  sides,  that  at  Trenton  (p.  258),  Madisonville  and 
Comerstown  in  Ohio,  Little  Falls  in  Minnesota,  Table  Mountain  in 
California,  and  elsewhere,  palsBolithie  man,  away  back  in  glacial 
times  left  traces  of  his  existence.  But  the  true  remains  of  antiquity 
within  the  borders  of  the  United  States  are  the  shell-heaps,  bone 
heaps,  and  refuse-heaps ; the  ancient  quarries,  workshops,^  and  mines ; 
evidences  of  primitive  agriculture ; graves  and  cemeteries ; mounds 
and  earthworks ; pueblos,  cliif-dwellings,  and  cave- dwellings;  trails, 
reservoirs,  and  aqueducts;  pictographs  and  sculptures;  relics  of 
ancient  arts  and  industries;  crania  and  skeletons  belonging  to 
vanished  peoples.  And  these  relate  to  a grade  of  culture  upon  which 
all  advanced  races  once  stood.  These  remains  and  relics  are  quite 
unevenly  distributed  over  the  States,  just  as  populations  and  in- 
dustrial centres  are  scattered  to-day. 

Shell -Heaps,  Bone-  Heaps,  Refuse- Heaps.  Along  the  Atlantic 
Coast,  up  and  down  the  great  affluents  of  the  Mississippi,  on  the 
shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  are  vast  accu- 
mulations of  shells,  left  by  former  savage  tribes.  Mingled  with  the 
shells  are  bones  of  the  dead  and  the  apparatus  which  they  used  in 
their  lifetimes.  In  each  locality  the  mollusks  whose  remains  are 
discovered  were  of  those  species  which  still  abound  in  the  region.  The 
most  celebrated  shell-heaps  are  found  along  the  New  England  shores, 
in  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  throughout  Florida,  in  Mobile  Harbour,  on 
the  Tennessee  River,  at  Santa  Barbara  and  San  Francisco  in  Cali- 
fornia, and  about  the  shallows  in  Washington  State.  Bone-heaps  are 


AND  ABORIGINAL  REMAINS. 


Ixv 


found  on  the  plains  of  Dakota  and  are  the  remains  of  ancient  buffalo 
feasts.  The  refuse-heaps  are  all  that  is  left  on  ancient  Indian  camp 
sites,  and  there  is  scarcely  a town  in  the  Union  that  is  not  near  one 
or  more  of  these  old  habitations  of  the  past. 

Quarries^  Workshops^  and  Mines  A The  aborigines  of  the  United 
States  had  no  other  industrial  life  than  that  which  belongs  to  the 
stone  age.  They  quarried  quartz,  quartzite,  novaculite,  jasper,  argil- 
lite, steatite,  catlinite,  slate,  mica,  volcanic  rocks,  always  from  the 
best  sources  of  the  material.  The  quarrying  was,  of  course,  simply 
the  opening  of  shallow  pits  and  drifts,  by  means  of  the  rudests  tools 
of  wood,  antler,  and  bone;  and  in  the  exercise  of  the  most  rudimentary 
engineering.  They  blocked  out  the  art  product  at  the  quarry,  leav- 
ing millions  of  spalls  and  rejected  pieces,  which  resemble  somewhat 
the  so-called  palaeolithic  implements.  They  manufactured  these  sub- 
stances by  flaking,  chipping,  pecking,  boring,  sawing,  and  grinding, 
using  as  tools  hammers,  saws,  drills,  polishers,  etc.,  of  stone  and 
other  materials  at  hand.  Copper  abounded  in  the  W.  central  states, 
the  raw  material  coming  from  Keweenaw  and  Ontonagon  counties, 
Michigan.  This  copper  was  not  smelted,  but  treated  as  a stone.  It 
was  cold-hammered  on  stone  anvils  with  stone  hammers,  ground 
into  shape  on  sandstone,  and  finished  after  the  manner  of  a stone 
implement,  tt  All  the  relics  of  the  ancient  Americans  of  this  region 
are  of  the  neolithic  type,  though  the  tourist  will  doubtless  be  told 
that  this  is  not  true  and  will  be  shown  all  sorts  of  marvellous  things. 

Primitive  AgricuUureM^  Not  only  are  finished  implements  re- 
covered that  must  have  been  used  in  rude  tillage;  but,  in  S.  Michigan 
especially,  the  whites  found  that  they  had  been  anticipated.  Garden 
beds  or  rows  were  discovered,  where  maize,  pumpkins,  beans,  and 
other  indigenous  plants  had  been  cultivated. 

Graves  and  Cemeteries The  best -known  antiquities  of  the 
United  States  are  the  ancient  cemeteries,  the  mounds,  and  the  earth- 
works. It  is  very  difficult  to  discover  an  Indian  grave  to  the  E.  of 
the  Alleghenies  or  to  the  W.  of  the  100th  meridian.  Within  those 
limits  they  occur  everywhere.  The  disposal  of  the  dead  was 
different  in  all  the  families  of  tribes.  Inhumation,  embalmment,  in- 
urning,  surface  disposal,  aerial  sepulture,  aquatic  burial,  cremation, 
all  had  their  advocates  and  practitioners.  The  most  celebrated  cem- 


t Holmes^  Am.  Anthropologist,  Wash.,  iii,  p.  24,  and  elsewhere. 

Moorehead^  Prim.  Man  in  Ohio,  N.Y.  1892,  Chap.  IV. 
tt  Whittlesey,  Smithsonian  Contributions,  Vol.  xiii. 
ttt  American  Antiquarian,  Vols.  1 and  7. 

tttt  Yarrow^  Mortuary  Customs.  I.  Am.  Rep.  Bur.  Ethnol.,  Wash, 
pp.  87-204,  fig.  1-47. 

Moorehead,  Prim.  Man  in  Ohio,  N.Y.,  1892,  Chap.  V.  See  also  ShorL 
N.  Americans  of  Antiquity  (Harpers). 

Archaeol.  Explor.  Lit.  & Sc.  Soc.  of  Madisonville,  1879,  p.  ii : appendix. 
/.  Cincin.  Soc.  Nat.  Hist.,  iii ; 1 and  3. 

Thrusion,  Antiq.  of  Tennessee. 

Yarrow,  in  Wheeler,  ‘Survey  W.  of  100th  Merid.’  VII 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  e 


Ixvi 


XI.  ABOEIGINES 


eteries  are  at  Madison ville  (OMo),  near  Nashville  (p.  399),  and  near 
Santa  Barbara  (p.  562). 

Mounds  and  Earthworks.  The  mound  and  earthwork  region  in- 
cludes W.  New  York,  N.  W.  Pennsylvania,  W.  Yirginia,  N.  Carolina, 

S.  Carolina,  Georgia,  Florida,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  Arkansas, 
Tennessee,  Kentucky,  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Iowa,  E.  Missouri, 
S.  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  and  Dakota. 

‘Within  this  territorv  are  the  copper  mines  of  Lake  Snperior,  the  salt 
mines  of  Illinois  and  Kentucky,  the  garden  beds  of  Michigan,  the  pipe- 
stone  quarry  of  Minnesota,  the  extensive  potteries  of  Missouri,  the  stone 
graves  of  Illinois  and  Tennessee,  the  workshops,  the  stone  cairns,  the  stone 
walls  the  ancient  roadways,  and  the  old  walled  towns  of  Georgia,  the  hut 
rings  of  Arkansas,  the  shelter  caves  of  Tennessee  and  Ohio,  the  mica  mines 
in  South  Carolina,  the  quarries  in  Flint  Ridge  (Ohio)^  the  ancient  hearths 
of  Ohio  the  bone  beds  and  alabaster  caves  in  Indiana,  the  shell-heaps  of 
Florida,’  oil  wells,  and  ancient  mines  and  rock  inscriptions’.  [Peet^  The 
Mound-Builders : their  works  and  their  relics’  (Chicago  ^ p.  346).] 

Both  mounds  and  earthworks  are,  however,  to  be  seen  sparingly 
everywhere.  The  largest  mounds  in  the  United  States  are  in  Illinois, 
opposite  St.  Louis  (p.  389),  and  no  one  should  spend  a day  in  that 
city  without  taking  a trip  across  the  great  steel  bridge  and  visiting 
the  Cahokia  Mound  near  E.  St.  Louis.  In  the  neighbourhood  are 
over  fifty  others  of  enormous  size.  In  the  cemetery  at  Marietta 
(p.  333),  and  at  Grave  Creek,  on  the  Ohio  river,  12  M.  below  Wheel- 
ing (p.  329),  may  be  seen  mounds  of  great  size.t  The  most  famous 
tumulus  in  the  United  States  is  the  Great  Serpent  Mound  in  Ohio 
(p.  387).tt 

To  the  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  most  interesting  remains 
are  the  earthworks.  And  of  these  there  are  two  sorts,  those  designed 
for  defence  and  those  erected  for  ceremonial  purposes.  The  former 
are  found  on  bluffs  and  tongues  of  land  with  precipitous  sides. 
These  natural  forts  are  strengthened  by  ditch  banks  and  stone  heaps 
and  gateways  covered  within  and  without  by  mounds.  The  latter, 
on  the  contrary,  are  in  exposed  plains.  Their  ditch  banks  are  in 
circles  and  polygonal  figures  and  the  parts  are  arranged  as  for 
religious  and  social  occasions. 

Besides  those  already  mentioned  the  following  defensive  and  ceremon- 
ial works  may  be  mentioned  (all  in  Ohio)  : — the  Great  Mound,  at  Miamis- 
burg-  Fort  Ancient,  Warren  Co.  ^ tbe  Newark  Works;  the  Mound, 

near ’Granville;  the  Stone  Fort,  near  Bourneville ; the  Fortified  Hill  in 
Butler  Co.;  the  Liberty  Township  Works;  and  the  Hopeton  Works. 

Consult  Thomas's  Catalogue  for  full  list  (Bulletins  of  the  Bureau  of 
Ethnology,  Washington) ;- also  Smithsonian  Contributions. 

Pueblos,  Cliff-dwellings,  and  Cave-dwellings.  In  the  drainage 
of  the  Colorado  and  the  Rio  Grande,  within  the  boundaries  of  Colo- 
rado, Utah,  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  and  the  N.  tier  of  Mexican  states 
are  the  pueblos,  and  the  cliff- dwellings.  Twenty-one  pueblos  along 
the  Rio  Grande,  between  34®  45'  and  36®  30'  N.  lat.,  are  still  inhabited 


f Putnam,  An.  Rep.  Peabody  Mus.,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  xii  and  xiii, 
pp.  ii  & 470. 

tt  Putnam.,  Century  Magazine,  March  and  April,  lo90._ 


AND  ABORIGINAL  REMAINS. 


lx\ii 


by  two  different  stocks  of  Indians,  the  Tafioan  and  the  Keresan.  The 
Zuhi,  residing  near  the  W.  border  of  New  Mexico,  on  the  30th 
parallel,  speak  an  independent  language;  and  the  Moki,  on  the 
reservation  of  the  same  name,  N.E.  Arizona  (see  p.  521),  dwelling 
in  seven  towns  or  pueblos,  belong  to  the  Shoshonean  linguistic 
stock.  Besides  these  inhabited  villages  of  stone  and  adobe,  there  are 
many  hundreds  in  the  territory  just  named  that  have  long  been 
tenantless,  and  most  of  them  are  in  ruins.  The  largest  of  them  and 
by  far  the  most  imposing  ruin  within  the  United  States  is  the  Casa 
Grande  (see  p.  588),  or  Casa  de  Montezuma^  which,  Bancroft  says,t 
has  been  mentioned  by  every  writer  on  American  antiquity.  The 
material  is  adobe  made  into  large  blocks.  Three  buildings  are  stand- 
ing, one  of  them  sufficiently  preserved  to  show  the  original  form. 
The  largest  collection  of  ruined  pueblos  in  this  region  yet  examined 
was  surveyed  by  the  Hemenway  S.W.  Expedition  in  1888.  The 
group  lies  on  the  Salado  river,  near  the  town  of  Phoenix  (p.  588).  tt 
In  the  canon  regions  bordering  and  opening  into  the  Colorado  river 
channel,  especially  upon  the  San  Juan  and  the  Dolores  and  their 
tributaries,  are  to  be  found  cliff  and  cave  dwellings  innumerable. 
These  are  easily  explained  by  the  nature  of  the  geologic  formations. 
In  the  precipitous  walls  there  are  strata  of  soft  stone  sandwiched 
between  layers  of  hard  material.  The  action  of  the  elements  has 
carved  out  these  soft  layers,  leaving  a roof  above  and  a floor  below 
upon  which  the  ancient  cliff-dweller  built  his  home.  Indeed,  he  did 
not  wait  for  the  frost  and  the  rain  to  do  the  work,  but  with  his  pick- 
axe of  hard  basalt  dug  out  a cave  for  himself  by  making  a tiny  door- 
way in  the  face  of  the  cliff  and  excavating  behind  this  as  many 
chambers  as  he  pleased.  Many  of  these  cliff  and  cavate  habitations 
are  high  up  and  difficult  of  access , but  they  overlook  long  valleys 
of  arable  land.tif  The  relics  found  in  this  region  are  the  envy  of  col- 
lectors, and  the  natives  still  manufacture  excellent  pottery,  to  imitate 
the  old.  The  ancient  is  far  superior  in  quality  to  the  new,  and 
hundreds  of  dollars  are  paid  for  a single  piece,  though  fragments  of 
the  finest  ware  may  be  had  for  the  picking  up. 

Trails^  Reservoirs,  and  Aqueducts.  For  the  purposes  of  war  and 
trade  the  savages  traversed  the  United  States  from  end  to  end.  They 
had  no  beasts  of  burden  save  the  dog,  consequently  they  made  port- 
ages from  stream  to  stream,  carried  their  canoes  and  loads  across  on 
their  backs,  and  then  pursued  their  journey.  The  traces  of  these  an- 
cient paths  of  primitive  commerce  may  yet  be  seen.  In  the  same  rude 
manner  these  savages  had  learned  to  store  up  and  conduct  water  for 
home  use  and  for  irrigation.  Especially  in  the  South  West  are  the 
works  of  this  class  to  be  studied. 


f Bancroft,  Races,  N.Y.,  1876,  IV,  621-635. 

tt  Cushing,  in  the  Compte  Rendn  of  the  Berlin  meeting  of  the  Society 
of  Americanists. 

ttt  Bancroft,  Native  Races,  N.  Y.,  1875,  IV.  650-661. 


XT.  ABORIGINES 


Pictoyraphs  and  Sculptures.  Tlie  very  ancient  people  and  tlieir 
modern  representatives  had  attained  to  that  form  of  writing  called 
pictographic.  The  traveller  will  see  in  museums  all  sorts  of  figures 
scratched  on  bark,  painted  on  skin  or  wood,  etched  on  bone  or  ivory, 
engraved  on  pieces  of  stone,  and  he  will  often  come  upon  the  same 
designs  sketched  on  cliffs  and  boulders.  These  constitute  the  written 
language  of  the  aborigines.  In  true  sculpture  they  were  not  at  all 
adept  and  they  had  no  alphabetic  writing.  Once  in  a while  myster- 
ious bits  of  stone  turn  up  with  Cypriote  or  other  characters  thereon, 
but  they  never  belonged  to  the  civilization  of  this  continent. 

Relics  of  Ancient  Art.  As  before  mentioned  the  native  tribes 
were  in  the  neolithic  stone  age.  Therefore,  it  is  not  exaggerating  to 
say  that  the  whole  surface  of  the  United  States  was  strewn  with 
relics.  In  every  ancient  grave,  mound,  or  ruin  they  abound.  The 
tourist  will  have  no  trouble  to  find  in  every  town  a museum  contain- 
ing these  objects  and  in  every  hamlet  some  one  whose  house  is 
packed  with  them.  So  desirable  are  they  that  thousands  are  fraudu- 
lently made  and  palmed  off  upon  the  unwary.  These  spurious  objects 
find  their  way  into  foreign  collections  and  very  much  embarrass  the 
problems  of  archssology. 

Crania  and  Skeletons.  Much  difficulty  has  been  encountered  by 
archaeologists  in  distinguishing  the  crania  of  the  truly  prehistoric 
American  from  those  of  the  Indians  encountered  by  the  early  ex- 
plorers. The  problem  is  further  embarrassed  by  artificial  deforma- 
tions and  by  changes  produced  by  the  pressure  of  the  soil.  Ex- 
cellent collections  exist  in  Cambridge,  Philadelphia,  Washington, 
Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis.t 

Ethnograpliy.  The  native  tribes  that  once  covered  the  entire 
domain  of  the  Union  belonged  to  fifty  independent  linguistic  stocks. 
Some  of  these  were  spread  over  vast  areas,  for  example,  the  Algon- 
kian,  Athapascan,  Iroquoian,  Muskhogean,  Shoshonean,  and  Siouan. 
But  the  majority  of  stocks  occupied  small  areas,  chiefly  along  the 
Pacific  coast, 

But  a wonderful  change  has  come  over  the  surface  of  the  United 
States  in  two  centuries.  Excepting  a few  small  settlements  of  In- 
dians here  and  there,  they  are  gone  from  the  Atlantic  States.  Only 
the  Cherokees  in  North  Carolina,  the  Seminoles  in  Florida,  the 
Iroquois  in  New  York,  and  the  Chippewa  tribes  about  Lake  Super- 
ior remain  to  the  E.  of  the  Mississippi  river.  The  aboriginal  title 
gave  way  to  the  title  of  discovery,  and  the  feeble  Indian  title  of 
occupancy  has  been  swept  away  by  the  tide  of  European  imigration. 

There  are  at  present,  as  regards  title  and  legal  status,  several  kinds 
of  Indians  in  the  Union. 


t For  the  best  resume  of  the  literature  on  the  Archseologic  Chapter, 
see  Winsor.,  Narr.  & Crit.  Hist,  of  Am.,  I.,  pp.  329-412  (Boston,  1^9). 

ft  See  exhaustive  account  in  vii.  An.  Rep.  Bur.  Ethnol.,  Wash.,  lo91, 
pp.  1-142,  with  map. 


AND  ABOEIGINAL  REMAINS. 


Ixix 

_ 1.  Citizen  Indians.  The  State  of  Massachusetts  and  the  United  States 

in  certain  cases  have  conferred  upon  Indians  the  full  rights  of  citizenship. 

2.  In  a few  states,  notably  New  York,  reservations  are  granted  to  In- 
dians and  they  are  protected  in  their  tribal  rights  therein. 

Piiiiit  are  still  at  large  in  greater  or  smaller  bands,  espe^ 

cidJly  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  region.  ’ ^ 

u.  S-W.  territory  from  Mexico  the  United  States  in- 

herited  three  kinds  of  Indians : the  Pueblo  Indians,  the  Mission  Indians 
nd  the  wild  tribes.  The  status  ot  these  is  most  confusing.  ^ 

5.  But  the  great  mass  of  Indians  in  the  Union  are  in  some  sort  of 
relation  to  the  United  States  and  hold  their  lands  (1)  by  Executive  Order, 

Congress,  (3)  by  Patent  to  the  tribe,  (4)  bv 
Patent  to  individuals.  ’ y j 

For  the  relinquishment  of  their  ancient  homes  the  United  States  has 
also  entered  into  agreements  to  pay  to  the  tribes  certain  annuities  in  money 
and  goods.  Under  these  circumstances  there  are  some  of  them  who  are 
the  richest  communities  in  the  world.  In  the  Osage  tribe  every  man 
woman,  and  child  is  worth  $ 1500.  The  five  civilized  tribes  in  the  Indian 
ierritory  and  the  New  York  Iroquois  preserve  their  autonomy  and  make 
their  own  laws,  but  also  have  a government  agent.  Many  thousand  Indians 
have  their  lands  allotted’  and  thus  have  lately  become  citizens,  the  title 
to  the  land  being  inalienable  for  25  years. t 


XII.  Physiography  of  Morth  America, 
by 

N,  S.  Shaler, 

Professor  of  Geology  in  Harvard  University. 

Although  the  traveller  in  North  America  may  be  most  interested 
in  the  people  or  their  social  and  material  accomplishments , he 
will  find  it  desirable  at  the  outset  of  his  journey  to  consider  the  phy- 
sical conditions  of  the  land,  the  nature  of  the  climate,  soil,  and  un- 
der earth  : — circumstances  which  have  gone  far  to  determine  the 
history  and  development  of  the  people  who  have  come  to  the  coun- 
try from  the  old  world. 

The  continent  of  North  America  is  in  many  ways  sharply  con- 
trasted with  that  of  Europe.  The  last-named  land  consists  mainly  of 
great  peninsulas  and  islands,  which  are’ geographic  dependencies  of 
the  great  Asiatic  field.  It  is,  indeed,  a mere  fringe  of  the  great  Eur- 
asian continent.  North  America,  on  the  other  hand,  is  a mass  of  land 
distinctly  separated  from  other  areas,  with  a relatively  undiversified 
shore,  and  with  an  interior  country  which  is  but  slightly  divided  into 
isolated  areas  by  distinct  geographic  features  such  as  seas  or  moun- 
tain-chains. This  geographic  unity  of  the  N.  part  of  the  New  World 
is  due,  as  is  the  case  with  all  its  other  conspicuous  features,  to  the 
geological  history  of  the  country  ; it  will  therefore  be  well  to  preface 
the  account  of  its  detailed  features  by  a very  brief  description  of  the 
steps  by  which  its  development  was  brought  about. 

In  the  Laurentian  age,  the  earliest  epoch  which  geologists  can 
trace  in  the  history  of  the  earth,  the  continent  of  North  America  ap- 


XII.  PHYSIOGRAPHY. 


Ixx 

pears  to  have  consisted  of  certain  islands,  prohahly  lying  in  the 
neighbouring  seas  beyond  the  present  limits  of  the  land,  the  positions 
of  -which  are  as  yet  unknown.  In  the  Cambrian  period  we  find  the 
Laurentian  rocks,  which  were  formed  on  the  older  sea  floors,  raised 
above  the  ocean  level,  and  constituting  considerable  islands,  the 
larger  of  which  were  grouped  about  Hudson  s Bay,  there  being  smaller 
isles  in  the  field  now  occupied  by  the  Appalachian  Mountains  and  in 
that  of  the  Cordilleras,  as  we  should  term  those  elevations  which  lie 
between  the  B.  face  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  ranges  which 
border  tbe  Pacific  Coast. 

From  the  debris  of  tbe  ancient  islands  which  prefigured  the  con- 
tinent,  together  with  the  deposits  of  organic  remains  accumulated  in 
the  seas,  the  strata  of  the  Silurian  and  Devonian  ages  were  formed. 
These  in  turn  were  partly  uplifted  in  dry  land,  thus  adding  to  the 
area  of  the  imperfect  continent  by  the  growth  of  its  constantly  en- 
larging island  nucleus.  Yet  other  marine  accumulations,  formed  in 
the  now  shallowed  seas,  afforded  the  beginning  of  the  carboniferous 
strata.  The  accumulation  of  these  beds  and  the  slow  uprising  of  the 
land  soon  brought  the  continent  to  a state  where  there  were  very 
extensive  low-lying  plains  forming  a large  part  of  what  is  now  the 
Mississippi  Yalley,  as  well  as  the  field  now  occupied  by  the  Alleg- 
heny Mts.,  which  then  had  not  been  elevated,  and  forming  a fringe 
along  the  E.  coast  of  the  continent.  On  these  plains  there  developed 
extensive  bogs,  which  from  time  to  time  were  depressed  beneath 
the  level  of  the  sea  and  buried  beneath  accumulations  of  mud  and 
sand,  thus  affording  the  beginning  of  the  coal  beds  which  constitute 
so  important  a feature  in  the  economic  resources  of  the  country. 

After  the  close  of  the  great  coal-making  time  the  Allegheny  Moun- 
tains were  uplifted,  and  the  ranges  of  the  Cordilleras  begun  in  ear- 
lier times  were  much  increased  in  extent.  From  this  period  of  the 
new  red  sandstone  or  Trias,  we  may  fairly  date  the  probable  union 
of  the  original  scattered  islajids  of  the  continent,  which  had  now 
taken  much  the  shape  it  has  at  present.  The  great  interior  sea,  the 
remnant  of  which  now  forms  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  which  in  the 
earlier  ages  had  divided  the  Cordillerean  from  the  Appalachian  lands, 
still  extended  as  a narrower  water  far  to  the  N.,  but  in  the  Jurassic 
and  Cretaceous  time,  this  Mexican  Sea  shrank  away  with  the  uplift- 
ino-  of  the  land,  and  its  place  was  occupied  by  a vast  system  of  fresh 
water  lakes  stretching  along  the  E.  front  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
Thesebasins  enduredfor  many  geological  periods;  they  were,  however, 
gradually  filled  with  the  detritus  from  the  mountains  of  the  West. 

In  the  Tertiary  period,  the  last  great  section  of  geologic  time. 
North  America  gradually  assumed  its  existing  aspect  The  Great 
Lakes  before  mentioned  were  gradually  filled,  the  lowlands  of  the  S. 
states  and  of  the  Atlantic  coast  to  the  S.  of  New  York  rose  above  the 
sea,  and  the  mountains  of  the  Cordilleras  gained  a yet  greater  measure 
of  elevation.  In  the  closing  stages  of  this  Tertiary  time  there  came 


XII.  PHYSIOGRAPHY, 


Ixxi 


the  glacial  epoch,  during  which  the  ice  sheets,  now  practically  lim- 
ited to  Greenland  and  Alaska,  were  extended  so  as  to  cover  nearly 
one-half  of  the  continent,  the  margin  of  the  snowy  field  being  for  a 
time  carried  as  far  S.  as  the  Potomac  and  the  borders  of  the  Ohio 
River  at  Cincinnati,  mantling  the  region  to  the  N.  with  an  icy  cover- 
ing having  a depth  of  several  thousand  feet.  At  this  stage  of  the 
geological  history  the  N.  portion  of  the  land  was  deeply  depressed, 
while  the  S.  portion  was  much  elevated.  When  the  ice  went  off,  the 
continent,  at  least  in  its  E.  part,  remained  for  a time  at  a lower  level 
than  at  present.  Only  in  what  we  may  term  the  present  geologic  day 
has  the  continent  quite  recovered  from  the  singular  disturbance  of 
its  physical  and  vital  conditions  which  the  ice  time  brought  about. 

One  of  the  most  important  results  of  the  geological  history  of 
North  America  has  been  the  development  of  this  continent  to  a point 
where  its  surface  is  characterized  by  certain  broad  and  simple  topo- 
graphic features.  It  is,  indeed,  on  many  accounts,  the  most  typical 
of  the  greater  land-masses.  The  eastern  and  western  shores  are 
bordered  by  tolerably  continuous  mountain  ranges : those  facing  the 
Atlantic  extend  though  with  various  interruptions  from  Greenland 
to  Alabama  j those  next  the  Pacific  from  the  peninsula  of  Alaska  to 
Central  America.  ' South  of  the  Rio  Grande  these  Cordilleras  form 
the  attenuated  mass  of  the  continent  in  which  lie  Mexico  and  the 
states  of  Central  America.  Between  these  mountain  ranges  and  the 
neighbouring  oceans  there  is  a relatively  narrow  belt  of  plains  or  low- 
lying  valleys.  The  principal  portion  of  the  continental  area,  however, 
lies  between  these  mountain  systems  in  the  form  of  a great  shallow 
trough.  The  southern  half  of  this  basin  constitutes  the  great  valley 
of  the  Mississippi.  Its  northern  portion  is  possessed  by  various  river 
systems  draining  into  the  Arctic  and  Atlantic  Oceans,  of  which  the 
Mackenzie  and  the  St.  Lawrence  are  the  most  important.  The  last 
named  river  system  is  peculiar  in  the  fact  that  it  is  the  greatest  stream 
in  the  world  which  is  fed  mainly  from  lakes. 

R*  we  could  contrast  this  over-brief  story  of  the  geological  devel- 
opment of  North  America  with  a similar  account  of  the  leading 
events  which  have  taken  place  in  Europe,  we  should  readily  note  the 
fact  that  the  former  land  has  had  a relatively  simple  history.  Fewer 
mountain  systems  have  been  developed  upon  it,  and  consequently 
its  shores  lack  the  great  peninsulas  and  islands  which  are  so  charac- 
teristic a feature  in  the  old  world.  To  this  same  architectural  sim- 
plicity we  may  attribute  the  generally  uniform  character  exhibited 
by  the  interior  portions  of  the  continent. 

The  conditions  of  the  ancient  history  of  Norh  America  have 
served  to  provide  its  fields  with  an  abundant  and  precious  store  of  the 
materials  which  fit  its  lands  to  be  the  seats  of  a varied  and  compli- 
cated economic  life.  Of  these  underground  resources  we  can  only 
note  the  more  important.  First  among  them  we  may  reckon  the  stores 
of  burnable  material:  — coals,  petroleum,  and  rock  or  natural 


Ixxii 


XII.  PHYSIOGRAPHY. 


gas  substances  wMch  in  our  modem  conditions  have  come  to  be  of 
the^  greatest  consequence  to  mankind.  The  Coal  Deposits  of  North 
America  are  on  the  whole  more  extensive,  afford  a greater  variety  of 
fuel  and  are  better  placed  for  economic  use  than  are  the  similar  de- 
posits of  any  other  continent.  They  range  in  quality  from  the  soft, 
rather  woody,  imperfectly  formed  coals  known  as  lignites,  to  beds 
which  afford  the  hardest  anthracites,  coals  so  far  changed  from  their 
original  condition  that  they  burn  without  flame  much  in  the  manner 
of  charcoal.  The  greater  part  of  the  good  coals  lie  in  the  region  to  the 
E.  of  the  Mississippi,  while  the  lignites  and  otherpoorer  fuels  are  found 
in  the  country  between  that  great  river  and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Ihe 
excellent  coals  both  of  the  E.  and  W.  were  generally  formed  during 
the  carboniferous  age;  the  lignites  and  other  poorer  materials  of  this 
nature  were  almost  altogether  accumulated  in  the  Cretaceous  and 

Tertiary  periods.  ^ 

The  Petroleum  of  North  America  occupies  a larger  portion  oi  tne 
country  and  affords  a more  ample  supply  of  the  material  than  those 
of  any  other  land  save  the  region  about  the  shores  of  the  Caspian  feea, 
known  as  the  Baiku  district.  The  best  of  the  American  wells  lie  in 
the  basin  of  the  Ohio  River.  Traces  of  similar  deposits  occur  at  var- 
ious points  in  the  Cordilleras  and  on  the  coast  of  California.  All  the 
more  valuable  petroleum  deposits  of  America  lie  in  rocks  below  the 
lowest  coals  in  strata  of  the  Devonian  and  Silurian  ages,  where  they 
were  formed  by  slow  chemical  change  of  the  fossil  remnants  of  an- 
cient marine  life.  The  abundance  of  these  accumulations  of  petro- 
leum in  North  America  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  beds  in  which  the 
fluid  has  been  formed  lie  in  horizontal  attitudes,  in  a position  where 
the  fluid  has  been  retained  by  the  unbroken  strata  notwithstanding 
the  great  pressure  of  the  rock  gases  which  tend  to  drive  it  forth  to 

Natural  or  Bock  Gases  which  of  late  years  have  played  an  im- 
portant part  in  the  industries  of  this  country,  serving  for  fuel  and 
for  illuminating  purposes  alike,  owe  their  origin  and  preservation 
to  the  same  conditions  which  have  brought  about  the  accumulation 
of  petroleum.  These  substances , though  the  one  is  fluid  and  the 
other  gaseous  in  form,  are  chemically  akin,  and  are  indeed  jonly 
varied  results  of  the  same  natural  actions.  They  are  both  alike  often 
formed  in  rocks  where  the  strata  abound  in  fossils.  The  reason  w y 
these  materials  do  not  often  occur  in  Europe  is  probably  due  to  the 
fact  that  the  strata  of  that  country  have  been  so  much  ruptured  and 
tilted  by  the  mountain-building  forces,  which  have  affected  almost 
every  part  of  that  country,  that  oil  and  gas  have  alike  escaped  to  the 
surface  of  the  earth  by  passages  which  these  dislocating  actions  have 
provided  for  them.  In  North  America  on  the  other  hand,  where  vast 
areas  of  strata  still  lie  in  substantially  the  same  position  in  which 
they  were  formed,  the  substances  have  been  to  a great  extent  re- 
tained in  the  rocks  where  they  were  produced. 


XII.  PHYSIOGRAPHY. 


ixxiii 


The  store  of  rock  gases  known  to  exist  in  this  country  will  prob- 
ably be  exhausted  within  twenty  years  of  the  present  time.  The  re- 
sources in  the  way  of  petroleum  are  also  likely  to  be  used  be- 
fore the  middle  of  the  next  century.  The  fuel  in  the  form  of  coal 
exists  in  such  quantity  that  there  is  no  reason  to  apprehend  a serious 
diminution  of  the  store  for  many  centuries  or  perhaps  even  thou- 
sands of  years  to  come. 

Next  in  importance  after  the  fuels  of  North  America,  we  may 
rank  the  ores  from  which  Iron  can  be  manufactured.  These  exist  in 
great  quantity  in  almost  every  important  district  of  the  continent,  and 
at  many  points  they  are  very  advantageously  placed  in  relation  to 
supplies  of  fuel  and  to  the  transportation  routes.  The  largest,  though 
not  the  richest,  store  of  iron  ores  in  North  America  lies  in  the  dis- 
trict of  the  Appalachian  Mountains  between  the  Potomac  River  and 
S.  Alabama.  In  this  field  the  ores  have  the  general  character  of 
those  which  have  afforded  the  basis  of  the  great  industry  in  Great 
Britain.  As  in  that  country,  these  Appalachian  deposits  are  very  fav- 
ourably placed  in  relation  to  coke-making  coals  with  which  they  are 
to  be  smelted.  The  other  conditions  for  the  development  of  the  great 
industry  are  in  this  district  also  very  favourable,  so  that  experts  in 
the  matter  look  to  this  field  as  likely  to  be  the  principal  seat  of  iron 
production  in  North  America. 

Next’ after  the  Appalachian  field,  the  most  important  deposits  of 
iron  ore  in  North  America  lie  in  the  region  about  the  head  of  1 ake 
Superior.  In  this  field  the  deposits  are  of  a very  high  grade,  but  they 
are  much  more  costly  to  mine  than  those  before  referred  to  and  they 
are  unfortunately  far  removed  from  the  coking  coals  of  Pennsylvania 
and  Kentucky,  which  are  the  nearest  good  fuels  to  the  Lake  Superior 
mines.  It  is  now  the  custom  to  convey  these  ores  mainly  to  the  coal 
district  about  the  headwaters  of  the  Ohio  River.  The  Cordillerean 
district  abounds  in  iron  ores,  but  as  these  Western  iron  ores  are 
rarely  near  coals  fit  for  use  in  furnaces,  they  cannot  be  regarded  as  of 
great  economic  importance.  The  ores  from  the  region  to  the  E.  of  the 
Mississippi  afford  the  basis  for  an  iron  manufacturing  industry  which 
has  already  equalled  that  of  Great  Britain,  and  at  its  present  rapid 
rate  of  growth  gives  promise  of  exceeding  that  of  all  European  coun- 
tries before  the  end  of  the  present  century. 

The  Copper  Deposits  of  North  America  are  to  be  ranked  as  next 
in* importance  to  those  which  afford  iron.  Ores  of  this  nature  are 
extensively  diffused  in  the  older  rocks  of  this  country, 'but  it  is  only 
in  N.  Michigan  and  in  the  Cordilleras  that  they  have  been  proved  to 
have  great  economic  value.  In  the  Michigan  district  the  material  oc- 
curs in  a metallic  form,  and  in  such  abundance  that,  notwithstanding 
the  very  high  price  of  labour  in  that  region,  the  product  of  the  mine 
goes  to  the  world’s  markets  under  conditions  which  enable  the  es- 
tablishments  to  compete  with  the  production  of  any  other  country.  In 
the  Cordilleras  of  North  America  the  metal  occurs,  as  is  usual  iii 


Ixxiv 


XII.  PHYSIOGRAPHY. 


other  lands,  in  the  form  of  ordinary  ores,  hut  the  deposits  are  of 
such  great  extent  and  richness  that  they  have  proved  very  profitable. 

The  mines  producing  Zinc  and  Lead  are  now  practically  limited 
to  Missouri  and  the  Cordilleras,  though  a portion  of  the  former 
metal  is  still  obtained  from  New  Jersey.  A large  part  of  the  lead 
w'licli  now  enters  the  markets  of  this  country  is  obtained  from  the 
silver  cres  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  district,  and  as  it  is  won  as  a bi- 
product, it  i>  produced  at  a low  Cost. 

The  GoZd  and  Silver  Fields  of  North  America,  which  have  consider- 
able economic  value,  are  altogether  limited  to  the  mountainous  dis- 
trict in  the  W.  part  of  the  continent.  The  S.  portion  .of  the  Appa- 
lachian system  afforded  in  the  early  part  of  this  century,  with  the 
cheap  slave-labour  of  that  country,  profitable  mines  of  gold,  but  ef- 
forts to  work  the  deposits  since  the  close  of  the  Civil  War  have  proved 
universally  unprofitable.  There  are  a few  successful  gold  mines 
in  Nova  Scotia,  but  they  are  commercially  unimportant.  The  evi- 
dence goes  to  show  that  the  Cordillerean  region  alone  is  to  be  looked 
to  for  large  supplies  of  the  precious  metals. 

Various  other  metalliferous  ores  exist  in  North  America  and  play 
a subordinate  part  in  its  mining  industry.  Tin  occurs  at  many  points, 
but  it  has  so  far  proved  unprofitable  to  work  the  deposits,  the  main 
reason  for  the  failure  being  the  cost  of  labour  involved  in  the  work 
of  production.  Doubtless  the  most  important  of  these  less  valued 
elements  of  mineral  resources  which  the  continent  of  North  America 
affords  is  the  group  of  fertilizing  materials  which  of  late  years  have 
come  to  play  so  important  a part  in  the  agriculture  of  this  and  other 
countries.  The  Phosphate  Deposits  of  the  S.R.  part  of  the  United 
States,  particularly  those  of  South  Carolina  and  Florida,  are  now  the 
basis  of  a large  industry. 

The  soils  of  North  America  have,  as  the  agricultural  history  of  the 
country  shows,  a prevailingly  fertile  nature.  In  the  region  to  the  E. 
of  the  Mississippi  within  the  limits  of  the  United  States  over  95  per 
cent  of  the  area  affords  conditions  favourable  for  tillage.  This  region 
of  maximum  fertility  extends  over  a portion  of  the  area  to  the  W . of 
the  great  river,  but  from  about  the  100th  meridian  to  near  the  shores 
of  the  Pacific  the  rainfall  is  prevailingly  insufficient  for  the  needs 
of  the  farm.  Crops  can  in  general  only  be  assured  by  a process  of 
artificial  watering,  and  the  whole  of  the  great  Cordillerean  field  within 
the  limits  of  the  United  States,  and  a large  portion  of  that  area  in  the 
republic  of  Mexico,  a district  amounting  to  near  one-third  of  the  con- 
tinent, which  would  otherwise  be  fit  for  agriculture,  is  rendered  sterile 
by  the  scanty  rainfall.  On  this  account  the  continent  has  as  a whole 
less  arable  land  in  proportion  to  its  size  than  Europe;  moreover, 
more  than  one-fifth  of  its  fields  lie  so  far  to  the  N.  that  they  are  not 
suited  for  agriculture ; thus  not  more  than  three-fifths  of  the  conti- 
nent is  naturally  suited  for  husbandry.  It  should  be  noted,  however, 
that  the  fields  richest  in  metals  lie  in  the  arid  districts,  and  that  in 


XII.  PHYSIOGRAPHY. 


lx  XV 


this  part  of  the  lealm  there  are  areas  aggregating  more  than  50,000 
sq.  M.  which  can  hy  irrigation  he  made  exceedingly  productive  and 
will  afford  a wide  range  of  crops. 

The  climate  of  North  America  is  prevailingly  much  more  vari- 
ahle  than  that  of  Europe.  Between  the  arctic  regions  and  the  warm 
district  of  the  tropics,  there  are  no  mountain  harriers,  and  the  land 
is  so  unbroken  by  true  seas  that  the  winter  winds  are  not  tempered 
or  ohstructed  in  their  movement.  The  result  is  that  the  summer 
heat,  even  as  far  N.  as  the  northernmost  cultivated  districts  of  Canada, 
is  great  and  commonly  enduring,  while  the  winter’s  cold  occasion- 
ally penetrates  to  the  borders  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  even  S.  Flor- 
ida being  liable  to  frosts  of  sufficient  severity  to  destroy  the  more 
sensitive  tropical  plants.  The  only  portion  of  the  United  States  which 
has  tolerably  equable  atmospheric  conditions, is  the  coast  belt  of  the 
Pacific  from  San  Francisco  to  the  S.  This  region  has  a climate  in 
many  ways  resembling  that  of  N.  Africa. 

The  peculiarities  of  surface  and  of  climate  which  result  there- 
from give  rise  in  North  America  to  certain  classes  of  storms  which 
are  little  known  in  any  other  land.  In  the  region  of  the  Cordilleras 
great  whirling  movements  of  the  air  arise  in  places  where  the  baro- 
meter is  low,  which  move  with  considerable  speed  to  the  E.  across 
the  country.  Passing  beyond  the  Atlantic  coast-line,  these  great  cir- 
cular storms,  which  generally  have  a diameter  of  several  hundred 
miles,  continue  their  way  over  the  ocean,  and  often  after  a due  time 
appear  on  the  coast  of  Europe.  In  the  landward  part  of  their  jour- 
ney these  storms  rarely  have  such  severity  as  to  damage  property. 
It  often  happens,  however,  especially  during  the  spring  season,  that 
on  the  ^.E.  face  of  these  advancing  cyclones,  small  but  very  intense 
whirlings  of  the  air  are  produced,  which  are  known  as  tornadoes. 
These  accidents  often  give  rise  to  winds  of  singular  intensity,  move- 
ments of  the  air  so  energetic  that  they  may  disrupt  the  stoutest  build- 
ings, throw  railway  trains  from  the  track,  and  by  the  upward  rush 
of  the  atmosphere  in  their  centres  lift  the  bodies  of  men  and  ani- 
mals to  the  height  of  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  earth.  Fortunately 
the  paths  of  these  tornadoes,  or  hurricanes,  as  they  are  locally  called, 
are  relatively  very  narrow,  and  the  distance  to  which  they  course  in 
their  N.E.  movement  is  short.  The  breadth  of  their  destructive  path 
rarely  exceeds  half-a-mile,  and  the  distance  to  which  the  destruction 
is  carried  is  generally  less  than  twenty  miles.  Although  occasional 
visitations  of  this  nature  have  been  experienced  throughout  all  the 
United  States  to  the  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  district  in 
which  they  are  really  to  be  apprehended  and  where  they  are  likely 
tq  prove  in  a considerable  measure  destructive  to  life  and  property, 
appears  to  be  limited  to  the  N.  and  central  parts  of  the  Mississippi 
Valley,  and  the  basin  of  the  Ohio  River  north  of  Central  Kentucky. 

Ihe  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  of  the  neighbouring  Carrib- 
bean  Sea,  as  well  as  the  shores  of  the  main  land  and  islands  of  that 


ixxvi 


XII.  PHYSIOGRAPHY. 


realm,  constitute  a field  where  another  class  of  air- whirlings,  the 
marine  cyclones,  also  termed  hurricanes,  are  frequently  developed. 
These  storms  are  much  more  enduring  and  more  powerful  than  those 
formed  upon  the  land ; they  often  march  from  the  regions  where  they 
are  developed  slowly  up  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the  United  States  un- 
til they  gradually  penetrate  to  a realm  of  the  sea  where  the  air  next 
the  surface  is  so  cool  that  they  no  longer  receive  the  impulse  which 
led  to  their  development.  These  marine  cyclones  find  their  parallel 
in  similar  atmospheric  convulsions  which  affect  the  Indian  Ocean  and 
the  China  Seas.  In  both  realms  the  disturbance  of  the  atmosphere 
is  due  to  the  heated  condition  of  the  air  next  the  surface  of  the 
ocean,  and  its  consequent  upward  movement  into  the  upper  parts  of 
the  aerial  realm.  The  whirling  movement  is  the  simple  consequent 
of  this  ascent  of  the  air  through  a narrow  channel.  It  finds  its  like- 
ness in  the  whirling  imparted  to  the  water  in  a wash  - basin  when  it 
flows  through  the  opening  in  the  bottom  of  the  vessel. 

Another  class  of  atmospheric  actions  in  a measure  peculiar  to 
North  America  is  found  in  the  ‘Cloud  Bursts’,  or  sudden  torrential 
rains,  which  occasionally  though  rarely  occur  in  the  E.  portion  of  the 
Cordilleras.  In  these  accidents,  though  the  region  is  on  the  whole 
arid,  the  rain  occasionally  falls  over  an  area  of  limited  extent  with  such 
rapidity  that  the  air  becomes  almost  unbreathable,  and  dry  stream 
beds  are  in  a few  minutes  converted  into  raging  torrents.  Although  in 
their  characteristic  intensity  these  cloud  bursts  are  limited  to  certain 
parts  of  the  W.  mountain  district,  a conspicuously  rapid  precipitation 
occasionally  occurs  in  the  more  E.  portion  of  the  United  States. 

In  its  original  state,  that  in  which  it  was  found  by  the  first  Eu- 
ropeans who  landed  on  its  shores,  the  E.  part  of  North  America  was 
seat  of  the  greatest  forest  of  broad-leaved  trees,  intermingled  with 
pines  and  firs,  which  the  world  afforded.  Although  this  noble  Appa- 
lachian forest  has  suffered  much  from  axe  and  fire,  it  still  in  part 
remains  in  its  primaeval  state,  forming  a broad  fringe  of  arboreal  vep- 
tation  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  to  Central  Texas,  extending 
inland  to  the  central  portion  of  the  Ohio  Y alley  and  up  the  Missis- 
sippi to  near  its  confluence  with  the  Ohio  and  Missouri  Rivers.  To 
the  N.  and  W.  of  this  great  woodland  lay  a region  of  generally  tree- 
less plains.  The  district  of  the  Cordilleras  was  scantily  forested,  and 
along  the  Pacific  Coast  and  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  from 
Central  California  to  the  N.,  extended  noble  forests  of  narrow-leaf 
trees.  Across  the  N.  part  of  the  continent  the  heavy  growth  of  timber, 
somewhat  stunted  by  the  severity  of  the  climate,  extended  from  the 
Pacific  to  the  Atlantic  shores.  As  a whole  the  continent  bore  an  am- 
pler mantle  of  forest  growth  than  any  part  of  the  old  world  beyond 
the  limits  of  the  tropics. 

I The  traveller  wlio  for  the  first  time  visits  North  America  should  take 
care  not  to  hamper  his  vision  by  pre-conceptions  as  to  the  beauty  of  natuial 
scenery  based  upon  the  physiography  of  the  old  world.  As  a wh(^e  the 
aspect  of  the  N.  continent  of  the  new  world  differs  greatly  from  that  oi 


XII.  PHYSIOGRAPHY. 


Ixxvii 


the  old.  In  the  former  land  there  are  none  of  those  admirable  combina- 
tions of  snow-clad  mountains  and  fertile  valleys  which  lend  such  a charm 
to  the  scenery  of  Switzerland.  In  general  the  surface  lacks  those  elements 
of  detail  which  contribute  so  much  to  the  picturesque  aspect  of  a land- 
scape. The  scenery  of  North  America  is  generally  characterized  by  a 
largeness  of  mould  and  simplicity  of  outline  dependent  on  the  relatively 
uncomplicated  nature  of  its  geological  history.  The  plains  are  vast  and 
but  little  varied  by  elevations.  The  mountains  of  the  Appalachian  district 
have  a singular  continuity  in  their  ridges,  which,  though  it  gives  them 
a certain  architecthral  beauty,  deprives  them  of  detail.  The  grander  el- 
evations of  the  Cordilleras,  though  attaining  to  about  the  altitude  of  the 
Alps,  rise  from  a much  more  elevated  base  than  the  Swiss  mountains 
and  therefore  make  a less  striking  impression  upon  the  eye.  At  few  points 
on  the  continent  do  mountains  or  even  considerable  hills  come  near  to 
the  coast,  and  the  result  is  that  the  shore  line  has  a monotony  of  aspect 
which  is  much  contrasted  with  the  sea  margin  of  Europe. 

The  lovers  of  picturesque  beauty  in  nature  may  well  seek  in  North 
America  the  charm  of  its  primaeval  forests,  the  beauty  of  its  great  plains 
when  they  bear  their  spring-time  flowers,  and  the  attractions  which  are 
presented  by  the  greater  rivers  with  their  noble  valleys  and  often  marvel- 
lous gorges.  Of  these  canons  or  defiles  cut  by  the  streams , those  of  the 
Cordilleras  are  by  far  the  greatest  in  the  world.  That  of  the  Colorado  and 
that  of  the  Yosemite,  each  in  its  way  eminently  peculiar,  and  differing  one 
from  the  other  in  origin  and  in  aspect,  are  doubtless  the  most  striking 
features  of  the  continent,  for  they  are  unequalled  in  any  other  land. 

The  history  of  the  aborigines  in  North  America  shows  that  this  con- 
tinent was  only  moderately  well  fitted  for  the  nurture  of  races  in  their 
steps  of  passage  from  the  primitive  condition  of  man  towards  the  ways  of 
civilization.  Though  a remarkably  fertile  region,  and  abounding  in  game 
the  land  contains  none  of  those  fortunate  peninsulas,  or  districts  walled 
about  by  mountains  or  the  sea,  which  in  the  old  world  have  afforded  such 
admirable  cradle-places  for  infant  states.  Thus  it  came  to  pass  that  in  this 
country  any  tribe  which  attained  some  advance  in  civilization  and  became 
worth  plundering  was  subjected  to  unending  incursions  from  the  neigh- 
bouring more  savage  folk.  Only  in  Mexico  and  Central  America  did  any 
of  the  primitive  tribes  advance  beyond  the  stages  of  barbarism.  The  better 
lortune  of  those  countries  was  probably  due  in  the  main  to  their  more 
secluded  positions.  Moreover  in  North  America  the  primitive  people  found 
no  animals  which  were  well  suited  for  domestication  or  could  render 
much  help  to  man.  The  only  beast  which  gave  much  promise  of  such 
aid,  the  bison,  though  a domesticable  animal,  has  proved  on  the  whole 
intractable  and  unfit  for  the  uses  of  man. 

The  united  conditions  of  the  continent  which  made  it  on  the  whole 
unsuited  for  the  nurture  of  peoples  in  the  first  stages  of  their  advance  has 
been  an  advantage  to  the  European  folk  who  have  been  transplanted  to 
this  part  of  the  new  world.  The  simple  geographic  character  of  the  coun- 
try has  made  access  to  its  different  parts  relatively  easy,  and  brought 
about  its  subjugation  to  the  uses  of  man  with  marvellous  rapidity.  Some 
have  feared  that  owing  to  the  lack  of  diversities  in  the  conditions  of  the 
continent,  the  people  developed  upon  it  would  have  an  excessive  uniform- 
ity in  character  and  quality.  The  history  of  the  populations,  however, 
seenjs  to  show  that  the  variety  in  climate,  in  soil  or  under-earth  products, 
and  in  the  occupations  which  these  features  require  of  people,  are  suffi- 
cient to  ensure  considerable  difference  in  the  f^olk  developed  in  different 
sections  of  the  land.  Under  the  mask  of  a common  language,  which, 
though  varied  by  provincial  peculiarities,  is  a perfect  means  of  communi- 
cation among  the  greater  part  of  the  folk  to  the  N.  of  Mexico,  the  acute 
ol?se^er  will  detect  varieties  in  essential  quality  quite  as  great  as  those 
which  separate  the  people  who  dwell  in  different  parts  of  Great  Britain, 
trance,  or  Germany.  Though  in  some  part  these  peculiarities  may  have 
been  due  to  the  diverse  origin  of  the  folk,  they  are  in  the  main  to  be 
attributed  to  the  effects  of  the  local  conditions  of  climate  and  occupations. 

It  is  evident  that  the  climate  of  North  America,  except  those  parts 


Uxviii 


XIII.  CLIMATE. 


which  have  a subtropical  character  and  the  regions  of  the  Far  North  which 
are  too  cold  for  tillage,  are  admirably  suited  to  the  uses  of  the  European 
peoples  from  the  states  in  the  N.  part  of  that  continent.  Toe  descendants 
of  the  colonies  from  England,  France,  and  Germany  planted  on  this  soil 
more  than  two  centures  ago  between  Florida  and  Labrador  h ive  all  greatly 
prospered.  Ttiey  have  increased  in  numbers  at  a more  rapid  rate  than 
their  kindred  of  the  old  world,  their  average  life  is  as  great  if  not  greater, 
and  their  endurance  of  labour  of  all  kinds  is  in  no  wise  diminished.  The 
history  of  the  Civil  War  shows  that  in  the  essential  Qualities  these  men 
of  the  new  world  have  lost  nothing  of  their  primitive  strength. 

Fortunately  for  the  transplanted  population  of  America,  the  conditions 
of  soil,  climate,  and  earth -resources  permit  the  people  to  continue  on  the 
ways  of  advancement  in  the  occupations  of  life  which  were  trodden  by  their 
forefathers  in  the  old  world.  The  agriculture  and  the  mechanic  arts  required 
no  change  whatever  on  the  part  of  the  immigrants*,  the  na^^ure  of  the  coun- 
try seemed  to  welcome  them  to  the  new-found  shores. 


XIII.  Climate  and  Climatic  Resorts  of  the  United  States, 

by  the  late 

Edmund  Charles  Wendt,  M.  D.,  of  New  York. 

Without  some  knowledge  of  the  physical  geography  pud  topo- 
graphy of  a country,  an  intelligent  appreciation  of  its  climatic  pe- 
culiarities is  not  possible.  This  is  particularly  well  seen  in  relation 
to  the  climatology  of  the  United  States.  Extending  from  well-nigh 
arctic  to  almost  subtropical  regions,  and  from  the  level  of  the  sea 
to  elevations  of  nearly  15,000  ft. ; covering  a vast  expanse  of  partly 
arid  inland  territory,  and  showing  an  enormous  coast-line  laved  by 
two  great  oceans,  it  should  not  be  surprising  that  every  conceivable 
variety  of  climate  may  be  found  within  its  borders. 

A*s  compared  with  Europe,  perhaps  the  most  noteworthy  feature 
of  the  American  climate  consists  in  its  greater  range  of  temperature 
and  comparative  dryness.  The  E.  is  also  strikingly  colder  than  the 
W.  coast  as  well  as  the  European  countries  of  corresponding  lat- 
itudes. This  circumstance  has  led  to  much  confusion,  and  has  given 
the  United  States  an  undeserved  reputation  of  being  everywhere 
colder  than  Europe.  It  is  quite  true  that,  if  New  York,  for  exam- 
ple, be  compared  to  cities  of  the  same  latitude,  like  Naples,  Madrid, 
and  Constantinople , or  if  Boston  be  contrasted  with  Rome,  the 
American  towns  will  be  found  decidedly  colder.  On  the  other  hand 
if  cities  on  the  W.  coast,  like  San  Francisco  or  Portland,  be  selected 
for  comparison,  only  trifling  differences  will  appear. 

Variations  of  Temperature.  The  mean  annual  temperature  varies  to 
the  extent  of  over  40°  Fahr.  in  different  Parts  of  the  Bnion,  ^ Extremes  of 
actually  recorded  temperatures  extend  from  -56  Fahr.  to  121  Fahr.  m the 
shade,  a range  of  177°.  Taking  the  mean  temperature  of  July  as  represent- 
ing the  hot  season,  we  find  in  different  sections  of  the  country  variations 
of  more  than  SO^-viz.  from  60°  to  over  90°  Fahr.  Again  J^n.  as  a 

representative  cold  month,  we  find  a range  of  oyer  50  --  from  10  Fahi. 
to  above  60°.  Now  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  in  the  United  Statet,,  perhaps 
more  than  elsewhere,  temperature  and  climate  are  not  merely  questions 
of  so  many  degrees  of  latitude.  The  lines  for  similar  annual  means  (iso- 
thermal lines)  are  considerably  modified  by  ocean  currents  and  winds, 
besides  being  deflected  by  the  interposition  of  lofty  mountain-chains. 


XIII,  CLIMATE. 


Ixxix 


The  Mountain  Eanges.  The  two  main  ranges  are  the  Appalachian 
System  in  the  E.  and  the  Cordillerean  System  (Rocky  Mts.  and 
Sierra  Nevada)  in  the  W.  As  will  he  seen  later  on,  the  W.  highlands 
have  a climate  peculiar  to  themselves.  They  run  from  N.W.  to  S E 
for  nearly  5000  M.,  Le,  from  Alaska  to  Mexico,  and  gradually 
slope  to  the  E.,  so  as  to  fill  in  from  one-third  to  one-half  of  the 
N.  American  coi^tinent.  The  E.  or  Appalachian  system  extends  in 
a S.W.  direction  from  Nova  Scotia  to  Alabama,  a distance  of  over 


AjpalacMan 
SYstem  A+ij,, 


1500  M.  Its  width  averages  hardly  one-fifth,  and  the  elevation  of 
its  peaks  and  plateaus  not  one-half  that  of  the  W.  highlands.  Hence 
its  effect  on  local  climate  is  much  less  pronounced  (Guyot).  Be- 
tween these  great  mountain  ranges  the  vast  Mississippi  Basin 
stretches  out  for  thousands  of  miles,  from  truly  arctic  regions  to  the 
warm  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  This  basin  also  includes  the 
Great  Lake  district,  one  of  the  prominent  features  of  the  N.  states 
The  climate  of  this  region  is  controlled  hy  the  vast  expanse  of  these 
veritable  ‘inland  oceans’. 

Three  Main  Climatic  Divisions.  In  accordance  with  the  brief 
description  just  given,  we  recognize  three  main  climatic  divisions 
in  the  United  States. 

nr.  extending  from  the  foot  of  the  Rocky 

Astern  seaboard,  and  including  the  entire  Appalachian 

2.  The  Plateau  and  Mountain  Region  of  the  Western  Highlands. 
3 The  Pacific  Slope,  to  the  W.  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range. 

1 Tu  Pf  eacli  region  may  be  briefly  stated  as  follows : 

1.  Ihe  Atlantic  seaboard  is  moderately  moist,  and,  in  general,  rather 
irowever,  subject  to  summer  ‘hot  spells’,  and  winter 
cold  snaps  of  ajery  trying  kind.  The  altitude  of  the  Appalachian 
system  is  not  sufficient  to  very  materially  affect  the  distribution  of 
eat,  winds,  and  rainfall,  so  that  the  change  is  a gradual  one,  as 
we  approach  the  dry  Interior  zone  of  the  Great  Mississippi  Basin. 
Th?  latter  re^on,  about  1,245,000  sq.  M.  in  extent,  is  in  general 
warm  and  moderately  equable.  Extensive  forests  supply  adequate 
moisture  to  the  air,  but  where  trees  are  sparse,  the  atmosphere  be- 

N *’an*d^Gm  r”lf  M Orreat  Lakes  temper  this  region  on  the 
til®  Gulf  of  Mexico  Warms  it  on  the  S.  Nevertheless  Eu- 
wiLpri.rM®”  complain  both  of  great  summer  heat  and  extreme 
winter  cold;  sensations  which  the  thermometer  rarely  fails  to  jus- 

caInotbec“deredlere! 


Ixxx 


XIII.  CLIMATE. 


2.  The  Plateau  and  Mountain  Region  is  dry  and  cold.  The 
higher  peaks  are  Alpine  in  character.  The  great  plateaus,  situated 
between  the  border  chain  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Rocky  Mts., 
are  on  an  average  5000  ft.  above  sea-level.  Some  of  them  are  fully 
0000  ft.  high.  The  climate  there  is  harsh,  cold,  and  very  dry.  It 
is  a common  mistake,  however,  to  suppose  that  these  elevated  pla- 
teaus are  merely  barren  wastes.  Especially  at  the  lower  levels  richly 
fertile  valleys  are  everywhere  found  to  alternate  with  sandy  treeless 
tracts,  salt  lakes,  and  marshy  wastes.  That  there  are  corresponding 
differences  in  local  climates  can  only  be  alluded  to  in  this  place. 
During  the  height  of  summer  the  days  are  hot,  but  as  soon  as  the 
sun  sets,  the  air  grows  chilly,  and  the  nights  are  always  cold, 

3 The  mountain  slope  of  the  Pacific  is  characterized  by  ab- 
ruptness and  great  irregularity.  Its  climate  is  varied.  The  narrow 
strip  bordering  on  the  ocean  is  much  warmer,  more  humid,  and 
very  decidedly  more  equable  than  corresponding  interior  latitudes 
and  the  Atlantic  coast.  This  Pacific  section  is  farther  distinguished 
by  a well-marked  wet  season,  corresponding  to  the  E.  winter,  and 
an  equaUy  well-defined  dry  season,  corresponding  to  the  E.  summer. 
Moreover,  cool  summers  and  mild  winters,  as  well  as  the  complete 
absence  of  those  extreme  variations,  which  elsewhere  mar  the  cli- 
mate of  the  States,  render  the  Pacific  coast  pleasantly  conspicuous. 
It  is  here  that  some  of  the  most  popular  winter  and  summer  health 

resorts  have  been  established.  .... 

Some  Special  Features.  In  regard  to  temperature,  it  is  signi- 
ficant that,  in  spite  of  the  wide  range  of  the  thermometer,  something 
like  98  per  cent  of  the  entire  population  inhabit  those  regions  in 
which  the  annual  means  extend  from  40«  to  70^  Fahr.  only.  Roughly 
calculated,  therefore,  the  average  annual  temperature  of  the  whole 
United  States  is  55®  Fahr.  But  foreigners  are  of  course  more  in- 
terested in  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  which  are  disagreeably 
perceptible  in  almost  all  the  states.  The  most  delightful  season  of 
the  year  is  unquestionably  the  so-called  ‘Indian  summer , i.c.  the 
few  Autumn  weeks  which  precede  the  actual  onset  of  winter,  t 
would  be  difficult  to  imagine  anything  more  exhilarating  than  the 
crisp  air,  brilliant  sunshine,  clear  blue  skies,  and  grateful  temp- 
erature characterizing  the  closing  days  of  an  ‘Indian  summer  at 


IbS  UOBl>.  . •XT' 

The  summer  temperature  is  everywhere  higher  than  in  Europe, 
with,  the  exception  of  certain  districts  on  the  Pacific  slopes  already 
alluded  to.  The  hottest  regions  of  the  country  are  naturally  the 
southernmost  parts  of  the  southernmost  states  (Plori(U,  Alabama, 
Louisiana,  etc.).  Here  the  annual  mean  rises  to  76  Fahr.,  whicn 

is  almost  that  of  tropical  climes.  In  the  valley  of  the  Lower  Colo- 
rado, in  California  and  Arizona,  the  summer  mean  rises  to  90  h ahr. 
In  Texas  temperatures  of  110“,  and  in  Arizona  and  parts  of  Califor- 
nia of  115”,  are  no  great  rarity,  and  yet  here  the  great  dryness  of 


XIII.  CLIMATE. 


Ixxxi 


the  atmosphere  makes  the  heat  seem  less  oppressive  than  in  humid 
regions  at  a much  lower  range  of  temperature.  In  almost  all  the 
states  of  the  Union  several  extremely  hot  days  are  to  he  looked  for 
every  summer.  And  in  the  more  prolonged  ‘hot  spells’  the  mortality 
from  heat-stroke  and  diarrhoeal  diseases  becomes  alarming  to  a degree 
quite  unknown  in  Europe.  The  severity  of  the  winter  is  most  felt 
in  the  elevated  parts  of  New  England,  the  higher  plains  of  N.  Minne- 
sota and  Dakota,  and  thd  lofty  mountain  plateaus  of  the  Rockies. 
There  the  usual  mean  may  descend  below  40®  Fahr.  In  upper 
Minnesota  the  winter  mean  is  only  10®  Fahr.  On  the  whole,  it 
may  be  said  that  American  winters  are  more  severe  than  those  of 
Europe,  always  excepting,  of  course,  the  S.  states.  In  the  Atlantic 
and  Middle  states  the  winter  is  generally  steady.  Ice  and  snow  may 
be  counted  on  during  one-half  of  the  three  coldest  winter  months. 
But  to  the  W.  of  the  Mississippi  great  irregularities  are  experienced. 
Mild  and  open  periods  there  alternate  with  intense  cold  and  violent 
storms.  As  we  approach  the  Pacific  increased  mildness  is  observed. 
Continuous  snow  and  ice  are  unknown  along  the  whole  W.  coast 
from  Yanoouver  to  San  Diego.  Moreover,  the  temperature  is  so 
equable  there  that  the  winter  mean  is  only  5-15®  below  that  of 
summer.  In  the  S.  occasional  cold  storms  are  experienced,  although 
the  thermometer  at  New  Orleans,  for  example,  rarely  descends  below 
the  freezing  point.  Yet  the  S.  winter  is  fitful  and  at  times  trying. 
It  begins  and  ends  early,  lasting  from  about  Nov.  until  February. 
But  there  is  absolutely  no  periodicity  in  the  various  irregularities  ob- 
served, so  that  elaborate  calculations  based  on  averages  may  be  rudely 
upset  by  the  eccentricity  of  certain  seasons.  It  is  always  well  to  be 
prepared  for  ‘any  kind  of  weather’  in  the  United  States. 

Kainfall.  The  rainfall  is  quite  unevenly  distributed  through 
the  United  States.  In  the  E.  section  it  is  abundant,  while  the  great 
W.  plains  and  prairies  are  often  parched  with  prolonged  drought. 
This  has  led  to  the  general  employment  there  of  irrigation,  without 
which  agriculture  could  not  flourish.  In  the  strip  along  the  Pacific 
coast  a very  plentiful  precipitation  occurs.  The  heaviest  deposit  of 
rain  takes  place  in  the  borderlands  of  the  Gulf,  namely  the  S.  parts 
of  Louisiana,  Mississippi,  and  Alabama,  the  E.  part  of  Texas,  and 
the  W.  coast  of  Florida.  The  annual  quantity  of  water  amounts  to 
about  65  inches  there.  But  at  Philadelphia  it  is  45  inches,  and  at 
Chicago  only  about  30.  All  over  the  E.  the  rainfall  is  abundant  in 
spring  and  summer.  It  usually  occurs  in  heavy  showers,  often  ac- 
companied by  violent  electrical  discharges.  On  the  Pacific  coast,  apart 
from  the  regularly  recurring  winter  rains,  little  or  no  precipitation 
of  water  takes  place.  But  at  a short  distance  inland  profuse  summer 
rains  are  again  observed.  In  the  mountainous  highlands  heavy  winter 
snows  augment  the  annual  volume  of  watery  precipitation.  The 
most  arid  tracts  of  the  United  States  are  in  W.  Arizona,  S.  Nevada, 
and  S.E.  California.  The  annual  rainfall  there  descends  from  15  to 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  f 


Ixxxii 


XIII.  CLIMATE. 


B iaclies  and  less.  Broadly  speaking  tke  United  States  may  be  said 
to  be  favoured  by  an  abundance  of  rain,  with  a relatively  small  pro- 
portion of  rainy  days.  Fogs  occur  in  tbe  seaboard  states,  but  they 
he  neither  as  frequent  nor  as  heavy  as  those  known  in  many  Europ- 
ean countries. 

Winds.  The  prevailing  winds  of  the  United  States  are  westerly, 
like  those  of  other  countries  situated  in  middle  latitudes.  Around 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  the  main  current  of  tke  atmosphere  moves  in  an 
E.  or  S.E.  direction.  Along  the  Atlantic  coast  region  the  predom- 
inating winds  are  S.W.  in  summer,  and  N.W.  in  winter.  In  a 
large  S.W.  district,  including  Nebraska,  Kansas,  Colorado,  Arkansas, 
Texas,  New  Mexico,  Utah,  and  Arizona,  the  summer  winds  come 
from  the  S. , and  the  winter  winds  have  a N.  direction.  In  the  region 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  the  winds  are  so  irregular  that  none  of  them 
can  be  said  to  be  ‘prevalent’.  In  the  tract  between  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Appalachian  ranges,  both  summer  and  winter  winds  are 
S.W.  and  W.  It  may  be  borne  in  mind  that  in  the  United  States 
the  S.W.  winds  blow  over  an  expanse  of  warm  water,  while  the  N.E. 
winds  hail  from  a frigid  ocean,  and  the  N.  W.  from  frozen  deserts. 

Storms  and  Blizzards.  The  regularly  recurring  winter  storms 
are  most  violent  on  the  E.  seaboard.  The  term  ‘blizzard  is  em- 
ployed to  denote  the  blinding  snow-storms  with  intense  cold  and  high 
winds,  which  have  their  true  home  only  in  the  W.  but  which  are 
sometimes  observed  in  the  Atlantic  States. 


Climatic  Resorts. 

The  custom  of  spending  the  winter  in  the  South  and  the  summer 
at  the  seaside  has  nowhere  assumed  more  formidable  proportions 
than  in  the  United  States,  and  a few  of  the  more  important  climatic 
resorts  are  named  and  characterised  below.  Comp,  also  the  notices 
throughout  the  Handbook.  ^ ^ 

Y/intee,  Resouts.  The  best  known  winter-stations  are  in  h ior- 
ida,  California,  the  Carolinas,  Georgia,  and  Virginia.  A large  pro- 
portion of  the  invalids  visiting  these  regions  are  the  victims  of 
consumption,  but  sufferers  from  gout,  rheumatism , neurasthenia, 
chlorosis,  anemia,  diseases  of  the  kidneys , affections  of  the  heart, 
insomnia,  chronic  bronchitis,  asthma,  and  over-work  are  often  sig- 
nally beneffted  by  a stay  at  one  or  other  of  the  resorts  named  below. 
In  making  one’s  choice  of  a winter’s  residence,  the  factor  of  accom- 
modation should  not  be  lost  sight  of  j and  it  may  be  stated  generally 
that  the  sanitary  arrangements  of  American  health-resorts  are  far 
superior  to  most  places  of  the  kind  in  Europe.  In  s 'i/'e  of  the  hotels 
every  conceivable  modern  comfort  and  luxury  are  p o^i  - ed  (comp. 

pp.  448,  569,  573). 

In  Florida  (RR.  76-80)  tie  temperature  is  eqna.' 
mospRere  is  neither  too  dry  nor  too  moist,  the  sunshin 
and  the  soil  sandy.  Consumptives  do  well  there,  espeoiau.  . i? 


XIII.  CLIMATIC  KESORTS. 


Ixxxiii 


early  stages  of  the  disease.  The  only  drawback  is  the  possibility  of 
malaria ; but  the  dangers  arising  from  this  source  have  been  grossly 
exaggerated.  - Southern  California  has,  perhaps,  the  most  delight- 
ful climate  in  the  world  (comp.  p.  667).  The  air  is  genially  w°arm 
and  dry,  yet  not  enervating  as  in  more  tropical  climates,  and  more 
salubrious  general  conditions  can  nowhere  be  found.  Santa  Bar- 
iura  (p.  6613,  Los  Angeles  (p.  566),  and  San  Diego  (Coronado 
Beach;  p.  573)  are  among  the  chief  resorts,  the  first  named  showing 
the  least  variation  between  the  day  and  night  temperatures  and  a 
very  low  relative  humidity.  At  San  Diego  the  coast-winds  are  some- 
times inconvenient  for  invalids  with  throat-troubles.  San  Bernar- 
dino (p.  526)  and  the  attractive  town  of  Riverside  (p.  526)  lie  more 
inland  and  have  a rather  bracing,  but  not  irritating,  climate  which 
some  consumptives  find  more  beneficial  than  that  of  other  Cali- 
fornian  resorts.  Monterey  (p.  569),  Santa  Cruz  (p.  557),  Pasadena 
n (p-  568),  and  San  Rafael  (p.  552)  have 

all  their  special  advantages.  — Thomasville  (p.  4441 , in  Georffia 
Aiken  (p.  438),  in  South  Carolina,  are  much  frequented  by 
weak-chested  persons,  who  find  benefit  in  the  balsamic  fragrance 
of  their  pine  forests.  The  advantages  of  Asheville,  North  Carolina 

at  P-  431.  Old  Point  Comfort 
(p.  415),  Virginia  Beach  (p.  414),  and  Newport  News  (p.  414)  in 
Virginia,  are  fashionable  intermediate  stations  for  invalids  on  their 
way  back  to  the  N«rth.  - Lakewood  (p.  279) , in  New  Jersey,  and 
Cumberland  Gap  Park,  in  Tennessee  (comp.  p.  424),  are  also  favour- 
ably known  — Colmado  Springs  (p.  628),  Manitou  (p.  529),  and 
Saranac  Lake  (p.  216)  are  the  chief  resorts  for  the  high-altitude 
treatment  of  consumption. 

Summer  Resorts.  Newport  (p.  89),  Nahant  (p.  121),  New  Lon- 
don (p  NarryansettPier  (p.  84),  Bar  Harbor  (p.  136),  Long 
Branch  (p.  74),  Atlantic  City  (p.  280^  Cape  May  (p.  281)  and 
parts  of  Lonp  Island  (p.  73)  are  the  most  fashionable  Seaside  Re- 
soRTS.  Sea-bathing  in  the  United  States  differs  somewhat  from  Brit- 
ish and  Continental  practices.  Permanent  bath-houses  on  the  beach 
take  the  place  of  bathing-coaches,  and  the  institution  of  bathing 
masters  is  almost  unknown.  Men  and  women  bathe  together  The 
temperature  of  the  water  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean  in  summer  is  so 
warm  (often  exceeding  Eahr.),  that  bathers  frequently  remain 
in  It  an  hour  or  more,  apparently  without  harm. 

The  chief  Mountain  Resorts  are  in  the  CatskiUs  (p.  202),  the 
f dirondacks  (p.  209),  tb.  White  Mts.  (p.  168),  ilioOreen  Mts. 

(p.  153),  the  Berkshires  (p.  174),  and  the  Alleghenies  (p.  381,  etc.). 
The  United  States  contains  nearly  9000  Mineral  Springs.  While 

mn'irhl’  equal  to  any  in  the  world,  it 

ust  be  admitted  that  their  scientific  employment  for  the  cure  of 
isease  has  not  hitherto  been  developed  as  at  the  famous  European 

fHi 


Ixxxiv 


XIV.  FINE  ARTS. 


spas.  Saratoga  Springs  (p.  225)  has,  perhaps,  the  best  claim  to 
ranking  with  the  latter  in  its  mode  of  life  and  methods  of  treatment. 
The  celebrated  Hot  Springs,  Arkansas,  are  described  at  p.  511. 
Among  the  most  popular  Sulphur  Springs  are  Blount  Springs  (Ala.), 
Blue  Lick  Springs  (Ky.),  White  Sulphur  Springs  (p.  382),  Sharon 
(p.  201),  and  Richfield  Springs  (p.  234).  — Good  Iron  Waters  are 
found  at  Sharon  (p.  199),  Schooleys  Mt.  (p.  243),  and  Milford 
H.).  — Crab  Orchard  (Ky.) , Bedford  (p.  289) , and  Saratoga 
(p.  225)  have  good  Purgative  Springs.  — Among  well-known 
Thermal  Waters  are  those  of  the  Hot  Springs,  Arkansas  (see  above), 
San  Bernardino  (p.  526),  Calistoga  (p.  553),  Klamath  Springs 
(p.  583),  and  Salt  Lake  (p.  542). 


XIV.  The  Fine  Arts  in  America. 

a.  Painting  and  Sculpture, 

hy 

William  A.  Coffin. 

Marvellous  progress  in  the  fine  arts  has  been  made  in  the 
United  States  since  the  Centennial  Exhibition  at  Philadelphia  in 
1876,  when  popular  interest  in  Art  received  a decided  impulse; 
and  for  something  more  than  a decade  the  influx  of  American  artists 
returning  in  large  numbers  from  study  in  the  European  art  centres, 
principally  from  Paris,  has  had  a strongly  marked  influence  on  the 
tendencies  of  the  American  school.  Before  proceeding,  however,  to 
the  consideration  of  the  conditions  in  which  American  art  stands 
before  the  public  at  the  present  day,  it  is  pertinext  to  give  briefly 
some  account  of  its  earlier  history. 

Previous  to  the  Revolutionary  period  we  find  a Scottish  artist 
named  John  Watson  painting  portraits  in  Philadelphia  about  1715, 
and  another  Scotsman,  John  Smybert,  similarly  occupied  in  Boston 
from  1725  to  1751.  John  Singleton  Copley,  born  in  Boston  in  1737, 
began  to  paint  portraits  there  about  1751.  He  went  to  London  sub- 
sequently, became  a Royal  Academician  in  1779,  and  died  in  London 
in  1815.  He  painted  many  celebrities  of  his  time  in  the  Colonies, 
and  his  works  are  among  those  most  highly  valued  in  early  American 
art.  Benjamin  West,  born  at  Springfield,  Pennsylvania,  in  1738, 
painted  portraits  in  Philadelphia  in  1756,  went  to  Italy  in  17b0,  and 
thence  to  London  in  1763.  He  was  elected  president  of  the  Royal 
Academy  on  the  death  of  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds  in  1792.  He  died  in 
London  in  1820,  and  his  works,  both  portraits  and  compositions, 
are  to  be  found  in  collections  in  the  United  States  and  England.  At 
the  Pennsylvania  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  in  Philadelphia  one  of  his 
most  celebrated  pictures,  ‘Death  on  the  Pale  Horse’,  is  in  the  per- 
manent collection,  and  the  Boston  Museum  possesses  his  ‘King  Lear  , 
another  notable  work.  Charles  Wilson  Beale,  who  was  a colonel  in 


XIV.  FINE  ARTS. 


Ixxxv 


the  Continental  army,  painted  portraits  of  Washington  and  other 
men  of  the  time  that  are  of  historical  and  artistic  interest.  John 
Trumbull,  son  of  Jonathan  Trumbull,  Colonial  Governor  of  Con- 
necticut, a graduate  of  Harvard  and  (like  Peale)  a colonel  in  the 
army  who  had  previously  given  his  attention  to  the  art  of  painting, 
gave  up  his  commission  and  went  to  London  to  study  under  West! 
He  is  best  known  as  a painter  of  military  pictures  representing  the 
battles  of  the  Revolution  und  the  French  and  English  war  in  Canada, 
and  also  painted  numerous  portraits  and  miniatures.  An  interesting 
collection  which  includes  the  most  important  of  his  works  belongs 
to  the  Yale  University  and  is  on  exhibition  in  the  galleries  of  the  art 
school  connected  with  the  institution  at  New  Haven  (see  p.  77). 

Gilbert  Stuart,  born  at  Narragansett , Rhode  Island,  in  1755,  is 
the  most  famous  of  all  the  portrait-painters  of  the  Revolutionary 
period,  and  his  work  compares  very  favourably  with  that  of  his  con- 
temporaries in  Europe.  He  was  a pupil  of  West  in  London  and 
returned  to  America  in  1792.  He  settled  in  Boston,  after  painting 
portraits  two  years  in  New  York,  Philadelphia,  and  Washington  and 
dmd  there  in  1828.  The  best  portraits  of  Washington  are  those  from 
his  hand,  and  the  list  of  his  other  portraits  is  a long  one,  including 
many  of  the  best  known  men  in  the  first  Congresses  of  the  United 
States  and  military  and  civic  dignitaries.  Portraits  by  Stuart  are  in 
the  collections  at  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  Boston  (p.  106)-  at  the 
Metropolitan  Museum  (p.  54),  the  Lenox  Library  (p.  46),  and 
the  New  York  Historical  Society  (p.  42),  New  York;  and  at  the 
Pennsylvania  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  Philadelphia  (p.  266).  John 
Vanderlyn  and  Thomas  Sully  (an  Englishman  who  came  to  America 
at  an  early  age)  were  portrait- painters  of  note  contemporary  with 
Stuart  and  Trumbull.  Washington  Allston,  born  in  South  Carolina 
m 17/9  and  a graduate  of  Harvard  in  the  class  of  1800,  went  to 
London  to  study  in  the  schools  of  the  Royal  Academy  in  1801.  He 
settled  in  Boston  in  1818,  and  painted  historical  and  religious  sub- 
jects as  well  as  portraits,  and  is  considered  one  of  the  most  talented 
of  American  artists.  One  of  the  best  of  his  works  is  the  ‘Jeremiah’ 
in  the  Yale  University  collection  at  New  Haven  (p.  77),  and  there 
are, others  at  the  Boston  Museum  of  Fine  Arts  and  elsewhere.  Samuel 
F.  B.  Morse  (1  / 91-1872),  the  inventor  of  the  telegraph,  who  gradu- 
ated at  Yale  in  1810  and  was  a pupil  of  Allston,  devoted  himself 
to  historical  painting  in  the  beginning  of  his  career  in  the  first 
quarter  oi  the  present  century. 

On  the  8th  of  November,  1825,  a number  of  young  artists  and 
^udents  in  New  York  established  the  New  York  Drawing  Association. 
On  the  16th  of  January,  1826,  they  chose  from  their  number  fifteen 
artists  who  were  directed  to  choose  fifteen  others,  and  the  thirty  thus 
selected  constituted  a new  society  which  was  called  the  National 
Academy  of  Design.  Among  the  first  fifteen  of  these  founders  of 
the  Academy  were  Thomas  S,  Cummings,  William  Dunlap,  Asher 


Ixxivi 


XIV.  FINE  ARTS. 


Durand,  John  Frazee,  and  Henry  Inman.  Among  the  second  fifteen 
were  Thomas  Cole,  William  Jewett,  Rembrandt  Peale,  John  Vander- 
lyn,  and  Samuel  Waldo.  Thomas  Cole  was  the  first  American 
landscape-painter,  &n&  Durand  and  T/iomasDow^%  were  prominent 
among  those  who  followed  his  lead  in  taking  np  this  branch  of 
painting.  Inman  was  a noted  portrait-painter,  as  were  Waldo  and 
Jewett,  Vanderlyn  (who  has  already  been  mentioned),  and  Rembrandt 
Peale.  In  the  years  following  the  founding  of  the  Academy  G.  P.  A. 
Healey  (who  went  to  Paris  to  study  under  Baron  Gros  and  Couture), 
Thomas  Rossiter  and  William  Hunt  of  Boston  (pupils  of  Couture), 
William  Page,  Daniel  Huntington,  Charles  L.  Elliott,  and  Robert 
W.  Weir  among  others  gained  wide  reputations  as  portrait  and  figure 
painters,  and  in  landscape  John  F.  Kensett  and  Sanford  R.  Gifford 
became  especially  famous.  Some  of  the  contemporaries  and  the 
immediate  successors  in  point  of  historical  sequence  of  these  men, 
elected  to  membership  in  the  Academy  or  chosen  as  Associates,  from 
about  the  middle  of  the  forties  to  the  beginning  of  the  seventies, 
form  what  is  sometimes  referred  to  as  the  ‘Older  School’  of  American 
painters.  The  Academy  held  its  seventy-ninth  annual  exhibition 
in  the  spring  of  1904. 

In  sculpture  the  first  American  artists  to  be  noted  are  John  Frazee, 
Hiram  Powers,  md  Horatio  Greenough,  one  of  whose  representative 
works  is  the  equestrian  statue  of  Washington  in  the  Capitol  grounds 
at  Washington  (p.  310).  Frazee  was  born  in  1790  and  Powers  arid 
Greenough  in  1805.  Thomas  Crawford,  Randolph  Rogers,  Thomas 
Ball,  W.  W.  Story,  and  Henry  K.  Brown,  v/hose  equestrian  statues 
of  Washington  in  Union  Square,  New  York  (p.  39),  and  of  Genera,! 
Scott  at  Washington  (p.  324)  are  especially  worthy  of  mention 
among  the  achievements  of  the  earlier  American  sculptors,  should 
be  grouped  with  Frazee,  Powers,  and  Greenough,  though  they  are 
chronologically  later.  This  summary  brings  us  to  the  period  uniting 
the  old  and  new,  the  time  when  American  art,  having  made  for 
itself  a dignified  place  in  the  national  civilization,  was  conservative 
in  its  processes  and  faithful  to  time-honoured  traditions  and  had  not 
yet  felt  to  any  appreciable  degree  the  influences  of  the  great  revival 
that  followed  the  appearance  of  Delacroix  and  Gericault,  the  famous 
men  of  1830,  and  the  Fontainebleau  group  in  France.  We  find 
Huntington,  Baker,  Le  Clear,  Eastman  Johnson,  J.  B.  Flagg,  Hicks, 
and  others  prominent  as  portrait-painters;  Guy,  J.  G.  Brown,  Henry, 
Loop,  Mayer,  and  Wilmarth,  noted  painters  of  figure  subjects;  F.  E. 
Church,  Bierstadt,  Cropsey,  Bellows,  Whittredgef  Thos.  Moran,  De 
Haas,  David  Johnson,  James  M.  Hart,  Wm.  Hart,  and  McEntee  the 
chief  painters  of  landscapes,  marines,  and  cattle-pieces,  and  J.  G- 
Ward  and  Launt  Thompson,  the  sculptors  of  the  day.^  We'  find.in 
their  work  sincerity  of  purpose,  much  artistic  feeling,  and  in- 
dividuality. Except  in  a few  cases,  however,  there  is  little  to  show 
that  their  art  had  developed  under  other  than  indigenous  influences. 


XIV.  FINE  ARTS. 


Ixxxvil 


American  art  at  the  present  time,  broadly  speaking,  means  art 
in  New  York,  for  though  there  is  much  that  is  of  value  produced  in 
Boston  and  Philadelphia  and  something  worth  noting  here  and  there 
in  some  other  cities,  the  best  work  of  the  artists  in  these  places  is 
usually  seen  in  New  York.  In  considering  the  modern  ‘Movement’ 
in  New  York  it  is  fair  to  say  that  we  cover  the  whole  country,  and 
the  condition  of  the  fine  arts  in  the  United  States  may  be  measured 
by  applying  the  gauge  to  what  is  to  be  seen  in  New  York.  If  a few 
individual  factors  be  thus  omitted,  it  does  not  affect  the  test  as  a 
whole.  This  is  nearly  as  true  of  New  York  in  the  United  States  as 
It  IS  of  Paris  in  France  and  much  more  so  than  of  London  in  Great 
Britain.  It  was  in  1877  and  1878  that  the  first  of  a little  band  of 
artists  that  has  now  grown  into  an  army  almost,  and  is  som.etiraes 
styled  the  ‘New  School’  and  sometimes  the  ‘Younger  Men’,  made  their 
appearance  in  New  York  and  excited  public  interest  by  their  work 
at  the  Academy  exhibitions.  They  came  from  their  studies  in  Paris 
and  Munich  and  with  characteristic  American  promptitude  founded 
a society  of  their  own.  Some  of  the  home  artists  who  were  in  sym- 
pathy with  their  aims  joined  with  them,  and  the  new  Society  called 
the  American  Art  Association  was  formed  at  a meeting  held  in  New 
York  on  J une  1 st,  1877,  at  which  Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  Wyatt  Eaton 
Walter  Shirlaw^  and  Mrs.  R.  W.  Gilder  were  present;  and  before 
the  first  exhibition  was  held  in  the  spring  of  1878  the  names  of 
the  following  artists,  among  others,  were  placed  on  the  roll  of 
the  Society : Olin  L.  Warner,  R.  Swain  Gifford,  Louis  C.  Tiffany, 
J.  Alden  Weir,  Homer  D.  Martin,  John  La  Large,  William  Sartain, 
W.  II.  Low,  A.  H.  Wyant,  R.  C.  Minor,  and  George  Inness.  The 
name  of  the  or.ganization  was  changed  in  February,  1878,  to  the 
American  Artists,  and  it  was  incorporated  under  that  title 
held  exhibitions  in  New  York  every  spring  since 
1878  with  the  exception  of  1885.  Its  discarded  title,  the  American 
Art  Association,  has  meanwhile  been  assumed  by  a business  com- 
pany, which  conducts  sales  of  collections  and  deals  in  works  of  art. 
The  Society  of  American  Artists  has  now  125  members,  about  twenty 
of  whom  reside  in  Europe,  and  is  a progressive,  vigorous  body, 
whose  yearly  exhibition  is  one  of  the  most  important  events  in  the 
American  art  world.  Whatever  feeling  of  antagonism  to  the  Acad- 
emy may  have  existed  at  the  outset  of  the  new  movement  has  now 
disappeared,  and  the  Academy  and  the  Society  are  friendly  rivals. 
But  young  artists  have  been  coming  from  Europe  and  establishing 
themselves  in  New  York  for  the  past  twenty  years,  and  their  num- 
ber increases  steadily  and  rapidly.  These  younger  men  are  very 
good  painters  as  a rule ; the  space  at  the  Academy  is  too  limited  to 
give  roofii  for  their  work  and  that  of  the  Academicians  and  associates 
and  other  men  who,  though  they  do  not  belong  to  the  Academy, 
hold  a position  in  American  art  by  reason  of  long  residence  and  re- 
cognized ability ; and  the  Society  has  been  expected  to  offer  the 


Ixxxviii 


XIY.  FINE  ARTS. 


vigorous  young  school  a fitting  place  to  exhibit.  It  has  done  this, 
especially  in  the  past  fifteen  years,  most  successfully.  A decade  or 
more  ago  it  secured  in  connection  with  the  Architectural  League 
of  New  York  and  the  Art  Students’  League,  a permanent  home  and 
spacious  galleries  in  the  new  building 

Society  (the  executive  society  of  the  alliance)  at  No.  215  West  0 . ih  bt. 
The  highest  standard  of  excellence  is  maintained  at  the  exhibitions 
of  the  Society  of  American  Artists,  where  the  visitor  will  obtain  an 
impression  of  what  motives  and  purposes  insinre  the  younger  men 
and  will  see  a collection  of  works  of  art  that  for  individuality 
ception  and  cleverness  of  treatment  may  justly  be  ranked  with  the 
best  displays  offered  in  the  European  capitals.  The  exhibitions  at 
the  Academy  are  somewhat  larger,  but  uneven  in  quality,  though  the 
younger  men  are  usually  pretty  well  represented  and  the  best  work 
of  the  older  school  is  there  shown.  Comparison  between  the  two 
exhibitions  will  be  found  to  be  instructive  and  interesting.  The 
number  of  American  artists  who  are  well  trained  is  now  very  large. 
This  is  due  to  study  abroad,  the  strong  influence  of  the  French  school 
on  the  younger  men,  and  the  methods  now  followed  in  the  instruction 
of  pupils  ill  the  art  schools.  The  number  of  those  who  do  thoroughly 
good  work  and  are  individual  in  the  presentation  of  their  motives 
is  altogether  too  great  to  give  more  than  the  names  of  a few  of  them. 
Perhaps  it  will  not  be  invidious  to  mention  those  of  Horner^  Chase, 
Dewing  Mowbray,  Brush,  Weir,  Cox^  Thayer,  Blashfield,  La  Farge, 
Low  Wiles,  Ochtman,  Ben  Foster,  Kost,  Murphy,  Hassam,  Benson, 
Millet,  Tarbell,  Vinton,  Maynard,  H.  0.  Walker,  H.  B.  Jones, 
and  Horatio  Walker  among  the  most  prominent  painters,  and  St. 
Oaudens,  French,  MacMonnies,  Hartley,  Adams,  fiallin,  Crafty, 
MacNeil,  Barnard,  Pratt,  and  Ehvell  among  the  sculptors.^  The 
American  artists  who  reside  abroad  are  frequently  represented  in  the 
exhibitions  at  New  York  and  other  large  cities,  and  Sargent,  Whistler 
fd.  1904),  Abbey,  Harrison,  Dannat,  Oay,  Bridgman,  Melchers,  Pearce, 
Hitchcock,  Vail,  McEwen,  and  others  are  as  well  known  at  home  as  in 
Paris.  When  at  the  Universal  Exhibition  at  Paris  in  1889  the  American 
section  in  the  fine  aits  department  included  the  works  of  the  artists 
at  home  and  abroad,  it  was  conceded  by  many  that  in  interest,  in 
technical  excellence,  and  in  individuality  the  American  exhibition 
ranked  second  to  none  but  that  of  France  itself.  At  the  World’s  Fair, 
held  at  Chicago  in  1893,  the  home  section  was  the  largest  and  most 
interesting,  and  the  works  exhibited  were  generally  allowed  to  surpass 
the  collections  of  other  countries  in  individuality  while  rivalling  them 
in  technical  excellence.  At  the  Pan-American  Exposition,  Buffalo, 
1901 , where  the  fine  art  section  comprehended  works  by  Americans 
only , it  was  thegeneral  opinion  of  those  best  qualified  to  jr-dge  that 
the  United  States  showed  as  high  a level  of  achievement  in  painting 
and  sculpture  as  any  of  the  Enropean  nations.  The  intelligent  ob- 
server who  comes  to  the  United  States  and  takes  the  opportunity  to 


XIV.  FINE  AKTS. 


Ixxxix 


study  American  art  as  it  is  to-day  cannot  but  be  impressed  with  the 
value  of  its  present  achievement.  The  high  place  it  is  destined  to 
occupy  in  the  future  is  plainly  indicated  in  the  startling  rapidity  of 
its  progress  and  the  earnestness  of  purpose  of  the  artists  who  are  each 
day  adding  to  its  renown. 

Decemt  er  an  exhibition  of  the 
Kew  York  Water  Color  Club,  a society  oiganized  in  1890,  whose  pur- 
pose It  IS  to  hold  anpual  exhibitions  in  the  art  season  before  the  holi- 
January,  the  annual  exhibition  of  the  Academy  at  215  W 
57th  St.  (one  of  the  best  and  most  inteiesting  of  all  the  exhibitions);  ard 
m April  the  le^lar  annual  exhibition  of  the  Society  of  American  Altists 
The  annual  exhibition  of  the  American  Wster  Color  Society  is  held  in 
5^®  American  Art  Association,  6 Fast  23rd  Street.  In 
addition  to  these  tiiere  are  usually,  throughout  the  season,  numerous 
special  exhibitions  in  the  galleries  of  the  dealers  of  the  works  of  irdi- 
vidual  artists,  and  at  the  American  Art  Association  and  the  Fifth  Avenue 
Alt  Galleries  there  is  a constant  succession  of  exhibitions  — some  of 
them  olten  of  great  impoitance,  as  when  notable  private  collections  are 
uhown  before  being  sold  at  auction.  The  Metropolitan  Musetm  (p.  54) 
with  the  valuable  additions  made  recently,  comparts  very  favourably  witli 
the  great  galleries  of  Europe.  The  exhibitions  of  the  Architectural  League 
interesting  to  the  non-professicnal  visitorf  as 
the  .cope  of  the  exhibition  includes  decorative  art,  and  the  architectuial 
portion  of  thedisplay  has  many  popular  as  well  as  technical  features.  For 
® informed  as  to  the  facilities  for  instruction  in  the 

fine  arts  in  New  York  it  may  be  mentioned  that  the  schools  of  the  Art 
Students  League,  vyhere  there  are  over  a thousand  pupils  on  the  roll? 
lank  With  the  schools  of  Pans  in  the  quality  of  the  work  produced  bv  the 
^ excellent  schools  are  maintained  also  by  the  National 
Acadeiny  of  Design,  the  Cooper  Union,  and  the  New  York  School  of  Art. 

In  Philadelphia  annual  exhibitions  of  American  art  are  held  at  the 
Pennsylvania  Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts  (founded  in  1805),  and  the  per- 
manent collections  are  valuable  and  interesting.  Exhibitions  are  also  held 
by  the  Alt  Club  of  Philadelphia  and  by  the  I hLdelphfa  SocieD 

.h®  collectiOES  of  the  Museom  of  Fine  Arts  are  of 'greet  value 
the  artistic  ard  the  historical  standpoint,  and  ejhihitiens  of  the 
work  of  Airerican  aitists  are  given  each  season  by  the  Boston  Art  Club 

Is  rb‘^?^7n  J'  “ In  most  of  the  larger  cities,  such 

? ^ Cincinnati,  and  in  many  towns  in  the  East 

institutions  and  schools,  and  exhibitions  to  which 
New  York  artists  are  among  the  contributors  are  held  at  regular  periods 
‘Tbp  Maaers  of  Painting’  by  Charles  H.  Caffin  (19()3)  ar  d 

ihe  History  of  American  Sculpture,  by  Lorado  Taft  (illus.;  19(3). 


b.  Architecture, 

by 

Montgomery  Schuyler, 

The  sources  of  the  settlement  of  the  United  States  were  so  many 
and  so  various  that  we  should  expect  to  find  a corresponding  variety 
in  the  building  of  the  colonies.  As  a matter  of  fact,  however,  bv  the 
time  the  settlements  upon  the  Atlantic  seaboard  had  become'suf- 
flcieiiily  established  to  project  durable  or  pretentious  buildings,  the 
English  mfiuence  had  become  predominant,  and  the  colonists  took 
their  fashions  from  England  in  architecture  as  in  other  things.  The 
Spanish  settlements  within  the  present  limits  of  the  United  States 


xc 


.XIV.  FINE  ARTS. 


were  unimportant  compared  with  those  farther  to  the  South.  The 
trifling  remains  of  Spanish  building  in  Florida  and  Louisiana  are  not 
to  he  compared  with  the  monuments  erected  hy  the  Spaniards  in 
Mexico,  where  some  of  the  churches  in  size  and  costliness  and  elab- 
oration of  detail  are  hy  no  means  unworthy  examples  of  the  Spanish 
Renaissance  of  the  17th  century.  The  only  considerable  town  on  the 
Atlantic  coast  that  is  not  of  English  origin  is  New  York,  which  was 
already  a place  of  some  importance  when  the  New  Netherlands  were 
ceded  to  Great  Britain  hy  the  treaty  of  Breda  in  1667.  It  was  built 
in  the  then  prevailing  fashion  of  Holland.  The  ‘Flemish  Renaissance’, 
which  has  lately  appealed  to  English  architects  as  containing  valuable 
suggestions  for  modern  building,  did  not  impress  the  new  masters 
of  New  Amsterdam.  The  crow-stepped  gables  and  steep  tiled  roofs 
of  the  Dutch  settlers  were  displaced  hy  dwellings  and  warehouses  of 
English  architecture  executed  hy  English  mechanics.  It  is  unlikely 
that  any  specimen  of  Dutch  architecture  was  erected,  either  in  New 
York  or  in  Albany  (which  retained  its  Dutch  characteristics  longer), 
after  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  There  are  now  no  Dutch 
buildings  left  in  New  York,  and  the  last  in  Albany  has  xately  been 
demolished.  There  are,  however  ^ here  and  there  Dutch  farmhouses 
left  on  Long  Island  and  in  New  Jersey;  the  Van  Cortlandt  manor- 
house  still  stands  at  Croton  on  the  Hudson,  and  is  still  occupied  hy 
the  descendants  of  its  builder;  a manor-house  of  the  Van  Rensse- 
laers,  patroons  of  Rensselaerswyck,  has  been  re-erected  at  Williams- 
town  (p.  180),  whither  it  was  recently  removed  from  Albany;  there  is 
an  occasional  Dutch  church  in  the  oldest  parts  of  New  York  State  and 
New  Jersey ; and  part  of  the  Philipse  manor-house,  now  the  City  Hall  of 
Yonkers  (p.  191),  is  of  Dutch  architecture.  These  relics  a're  all  of  the 
17th  century  and  are  interesting  rather  historically  than  architecturally. 

The  public  buildings  of  the  colonial  period  were  mainly  churches, 
and  these,  where  they  were  more  than  mere  ‘meeting-houses , were 
imitated  from  the  churches  of  Sir  Christopher  Wren  and  his  successors. 
Of  these  St.  Michael’s  (p.  436),  built  in  1752  in  Charleston,  is  the 
most  conspicuous  and  perhaps  the  most  successful.  Burke,  in  his 
‘Account  of  the  European  Settlements  in  America’  (1757),  says  of 
it:  ‘the  church  is  spacious  and  executed  in  very  handsome  taste,  ex- 
ceeding everything  of  that  kind  which  we  have  in  America . The 
design  is  attributed,  on  the  strength  of  a contemporaneous  news- 
paper paragraph,  to  ‘Mr.  Gibson’,  but  this  is  probably  a mistake  for 
Mr.  Gibbs,  the  architect  of  St.  Martin’s-in-the-Fields  in  London  and 
the  Radcliffe  Library  at  Oxford,  being  at  the  time  one  of  the  most 
successful  of  English  architects  and  perhaps  the  most  distinguished 
of  the  immediate  followers  of  Wren.  The  resemblances  between 
St.  Michael’s  and  St.  Martin’s  tend  to  strengthen  this  conjecture. 
St.  Paul’s  (p.  34)  in  New  York  (1767)  was  the  most  important  of 
the  colonial  churches  of  the  city  and  in  style  resembles  St.  Michael  s, 
being  ultimately  inspired  by  Wren’s  city  churches  in  London. 


XIY.  FINE  ARTS. 


xci 


A local  tradition  refers  the  design  of  the  College  of  William  and 
Mary  (p.  415),  at  Williamsburg,  Ya.,  to  Sir  Christopher  Wren  him- 
self, hut  the  architecture  scarcely  hears  out  the  legend.  It  is,  however, 
in  Yirginia  and  in  Maryland  that  the  colonial  architecture  is  seen  at 
its  best.  The  great  tohacco-planters  of  those  colonies  formed  a real 
landed  gentry,  such  as  could  scarcely  he  said  to  exist  in  any  other  of 
the  colonies,  exceptlmg  the  holders  of  manorial  grants  on  the  Hudson 
River,  who  were  much  fewer  in  numbers.  The  farmers  of  New  Eng- 
land and  Pennsylvania  were  a yeomanry  and  there  were  very  few 
landed  proprietors  in  New  England  who  could  rival  the  scale  of  living 
of  the  tohacco-plai]ters,  whose  estates  and  agricultural  operations  were 
extensive,  whose  habits  were  hospitable  and  commonly  extravagant, 
and  who  lived  up  to  their  easily  acquired  incomes.  They  possessed 
real  ‘seats’,  and  these  are  the  most  pretentious  and  the  most  interest- 
ing examples  of  colonial  domestic  architecture.  Such  mansions  as 
Brandon,  Shirley,  and  Westover  in  Yirginia  (see  p.  413),  and  Home- 
wood  and  Whitehall  in  Maryland,  testify  to  a high  degree  not  only 
of  social  refinement  on  the  part  of  their  owners  but  of  skill  on  the 
part  of  the  artisans  who  built  them,  for  the  profession  of  architecture 
was  almost  if  not  quite  unknown  to  the  colonies.  The  architecture 
of  these  mansions  consisted  in  a simple,  almost  invariably  symmetrical 
composition,  often  a centre  with  wings  connected  with  it  by  a curtain 
wall,  in  a c.^reful  and  generally  successful  proportioning  of  these 
parts  and  of  the  stories,  which  were  usually  two  and  very  rarely  more 
than  three,  and  in  the  refined  though  conventional  design  and  skilful 
execution  of  the  detail,  especially  of  the  detail  in  woodwork.  The 
porch  was  the  feature  of  the  front,  and  in  houses  of  much  pretension 
generally  exhibited  an  order,  consisting  of  a pair  of  columns  sustain- 
ing an  entablature  and  a pediment.  The  bricks  were  imported  from 
England,  or  often,  in  the  northern  colonies,  from  Holland,  and  stone 
was  sparingly  employed.  Many  of  the  country  seats  of  the  landed 
gentry  have  been  piously  preserved,  but  in  towns  the  colonial  houses 
have  been  for  the  most  part  destroyed.  Annapolis  (p.  307),  in  Mary- 
land, nauaed  after  Princess  Anne,  has  been  left  on  one  side  by  the 
march  of  improvement  and  remains  to  show  many  specimens  of  the 
Georgian  architecture,  which  still  give  it  a strong  resemblance  to  an 
English  town  that  has  remained  inactive  for  a century. 

The  colonial  architecture  continued  to  prevail  after  the  close  of 
the  poMtically  colonial  period.  The  first  Capitol  of  the  United  States 
at  Washington  was  a very  good  specimen  of  it,  although  the  design 
of  it  has  been  obscured  by  the  later  additions  in  a different  taste. 
Although  the  plan  which  was  accepted  was  the  work  of  an  amateur, 
to  whom  the  design  of  the  building  was  really  due,  the  work  of  con- 
struction was  assigned  to  a trained  architect  later.  At  the  instigation 
of  Jefferson,  then  President  and  himself  a dabbler  in  architecture,  the 
architect  attempted  to  compose  an ‘American  order’  by  conventionalis- 
ing the  foliage  of  plants  peculiar  to  this  continent.  Some  of  the 


XCll 


. Xiy.  FINE  ARTS. 


capitals  engendered  by  tbis  essay  are  to  be  seen  in  the  interior  of 
the  Capitol  (p.  313),  but  it  is  upon  the  whole  fortunate  that  no  attempt 
was  made  to  employ  them  in  the  exterior  decoration.  The  building 
was  burned  by  the  British  in  1814,  but  was  rebuilt  with  additions 
and  variations  during  the  next  decade.  To  the  same  period  belong  the 
State  House  of  Massachusetts  at  Boston,  the  City  Hall  of  New  York,  and 
the  Merchants’  Exchange  of  Philadelphia,  all  specimens  of  educated 
and  discreet  architecture,  as  it  was  at  that  time  understood  in  Europe. 

The  inspiration  of  these  works  and  of  others  like  them  was  dis- 
tinctly Roman.  The  Greek  revival  that  was  stimulated  in  Europe  by 
the  publication  of  Stuart’s  work  on  Athens  was  somewhat  belated  in 
reaching  the  United  States,  where  the  Roman  Renaissance  of  Wren 
and  his  successors  was  in  full  possession.  The  Grecian  temple  wa^ 
adopted  at  the  national  capital  as  the  model  of  a modern  public 
building  about  1835  , with  such  modifications  as  were  compelled  by 
practical  requirements.  The  Treasury,  of  the  Ionic  order,  the  Doric 
building  of  the  Interior  Department,  commonly  called  the  Patent 
Office,  and  the  Corinthian  General  Post  Office  were  among  the  first 
fruits ’of  this  cult.  From  Washington  it  gradually  spread  over  the 
United  States,  Girard  College  (p.  270)  at  Philadelphia  and  the  Sub- 
Treasury  and  the  Custom  House  at  New  York  being  among  the  finest 
and  most  monumental  of  the  American  reproductions.  For  the  next 
15  years  the  Grecian  temple  in  stone  or  brick  was  commonly  adopted 
for  churches  as  well  as  for  public  buildings,  while  it  was  reproduced 
in  wood  for  dwellings  of  architectural  pretensions,  either  in  town  or 
country.  In  1851  the  extension  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington  was 
begun.  It  consists  of  two  wings,  fronted  with  Corinthian  colonnades, 
making  the  extreme  length  of  the  building  750  feet,  and  the  addition 
of  a central  dome  of  cast  iron,  which  attains  the  disproportionate 
height  of  over  300  feet  and  is,  in  other  respects,  not  very  successfully 
adjusted  to  the  building  which  it  crowns.  The  Capitol  thus  com- 
pleted became  the  model  for  American  public  buildings.  Nearly  all 
the  State  Houses  have  followed  its  general  disposition  and  have  in- 
cluded a lofty  dome. 

Although  there  are  some  earlier  churches  in  a style  which  the 
designers  of  them  believed  to  be  Gothic,  the  Gothic  revival  in  the 
United  States  may  be  said  to  have  begun  with  the  erection  of  Trinity 
Church  (p.  33)  in  New  York  in  1846,  which  remains,  perhaps,  the 
most  admirable  piece  of  ecclesiastical  architecture  in  that  city.  Within 
a few  years  thereafter  Gothic  had  almost  entirely  superseded  classic 
architecture  as  a style  for  churches,  although  in  commercial  buildings 
the  models  of  the  Renaissance  were  preferred,  and  these  were  imitated 
in  fronts  of  cast-iron  to  an  extent  quite  unknown  elsewhere.  The 
Gothic  designers,  however,  insisted  upon  the  applicability  of  their 
style  to  all  uses  and  made  many  essays  of  more  or  less  interest , in 
public,  commercial,  and  domestic  building , of  which  there  are 
examples  in  all  the  Atlantic  cities. 


XIV.  FINE  ARTS. 


xciii 


Up  to  this  time,  although  among  the  leading  American  architects 
were  Germans  and  Frenchmen  as  well  as  Englishmen,  and  an  in- 
creasing proportion  of  native  designers  who  had  made  their  studies 
at  the  Ecole  des  Beaux  Arts,  or  in  the  office  of  Continental  architects 
the  architecture  of  the  country  had  upon  the  whole  been  a faint  and 
belated  reflection  of  the  current  architecture  of  England.  This  con- 
tinued to  he  the  case  during  a brief  season  of  experiments  with 
Queen  Anne  . But  at  this  time  there  arose  an  American  architect 
whose  personal  force,  manifested  for  the  most  part  in  his  own  free 
version  of  the  Southern  French  Romanesque,  very  deeply  impressed 
his  contemporaries  and  his  successors  and  greatly  affected  the  build- 
ing of  the  whole  country.  This  was  Mr.  H.  H.  Richardson  (1838-86) 
who  came  into  a national  celebrity  with  the  completion  of  Trinity 
Church,  Boston,  in  1877,  when  the  author  was  thirty-nine  years  old. 
In  the  nine  years  of  life  that  remained  to  him,  he  made  such  an  im- 
pression upon  his  profession  that  almost  every  American  town  hears 
traces  of  his  influence.  His  own  most  noteworthy  works,  besides 
Trinity,  are  the  county-buildings  at  Pittsburg  (p.  295) , the  Senate 
Chamber,  the  Court  of  Appeals,  and  the  Western  Staircase  of  the 
Capitol  of  New  York  at  Albany  (p.  198),  the  Albany  City  Hall  (p.  199) 
the  Cincinnati  Board  of  Trade  (p.  385),  Sever  Hall  and  Austin  Hall 
at  Cambridge  (p.  113),  and  a warehouse  in  Chicago  (p.  353)  As 
might  have  been  expected,  he  has  had  many  imitators,  but  the  extent 
and  the  value  of  his  services  to  American  architecture  are  best  seen 
in  the  work  of  architects  who  have  recognized  the  force  that  lay  in 
his  simple  and  large  treatment,  and  have  recognized  also  that  the 
force  of  this  treatment  was  independent  of  the  detail  he  employed 
and  of  the  style  in  which  he  worked.  This  lesson  has  been  learned 
and  applied  by  the  architects  of  many  of  the  towering  ‘elevator  build- 
ings’ erected  for  commercial  purposes,  which  are  so  marked  features 
of  the  American  cities,  and  are  the  unique  contribution  of  American 
architects  to  their  art.  The  introduction  of  the  elevator  made  possible 
a great  increase  in  the  number  of  stories  of  a commercial  buildinp- 
which  before  that  introduction  were  usually  limited  to  five  , whereas 
quite  three  times  that  number  have  been  proved  to  be  practicable 
and  profitable.  The  earliest  of  the  elevator  buildings  were  the  Western 
Union  building  (p.  34;  since  partly  destroyed  and  rebuilt)  and  the 
Tribune  building  (p.  35)  in  New  York , and  these  are  but  twenty 
years  old.  The  architectural  problem  presented  by  these  structures 
was  entirely  neAV,  and  no  precedents  could  be  invoked  for  their 
treatment.  Many  of  the  different  solutions  of  it  offered  by  American 
architects  are  of  high  ingenuity  and  interest.  Boston,  New  York 
Philadelphia,  and  Chicago  offer  numerous  commercial  buildings  that 
are  impressive  and  admirable  pieces  of  architecture,  although  the  con- 
ditions of  their  erection  have  compelled  the  designers  to  disregard 
many  accepted  canons  of  their  art,  and  they  seem  voluntarily  to 
have  disregarded  many  others.  In  public  buildings,  the  modern 


xciv  XIV.  FINE  ARTS. 

French  style , imported  by  graduates  of  the  Beaux  Arts,  is  at  present 
in  undisputed  control. 

While  American  architects  have  been  compelled  to  contribute  to 
architecture  a new  type  in  the  elevator  building,  they  have  won  suc- 
cesses not  less  genuine,  though  of  course  less  startling,  in  domestic 
architecture.  Here  also  they  are  almost  equally  independent  of  con- 
vention, and  this,  as  is  often  apparent  in  their  successful  essays,  not 
from  ignorance  but  from  deliberate  choice.  The  discipline  of  the 
schools  has  enabled  a designer  to  produce  work  that  is  clearly 
scholarly  and  as  clearly  not  scholastic.  DwelUngs  of  recent  erection 
are  to  be  found  in  the  suburbs  of  Boston,  in  the  new‘WestSide’  of  New 
York,  on  all  three  ‘sides’  of  Chicago,  and  indeed  in  all  the  chief  towns 
of  the  North  and  North-West  that  are  so  far  from  being  examples  of 
s'tyles  that  they  betray  a complete  freedom  of  eclecticism  and  that  are 
yet  evidently  the  work  of  accomplished  and  artistic  designers.  The 
massiveness  of  the  Romanesque  in  which'  Mr.  Richardson  worked 
sometimes  even  in  his  hands  degenerated  into  a coarseness  arid 
clumsiness  that  are  especially  repugnant  to  the  spirit  of  domestic 
architecture.  His  imitators  have  exaggerated  these  defects  and  omitted 
the  qualities  which  in  his  work  atoned  for  them,  and  the  most  suc- 
cessful of  recent  American  dwellings  that  can  be  classified  as  Ro- 
manesque are  of  a lighter  and  more  enriched  Romanesque  than  that 
which  he  employed.  The  French  Renaissance  of  Francis  I.  has  ap- 
pealed to  many  of  the  architects  as  a style  at  once  free  and  picturesque 
and  at  the  same  time  refined,  and  some  interesting  houses  have  been 
done  in  it,  especially  in  New  York  (comp.  p.  44)  and  Philadelphia. 
In  country-houses,  also,  American  architects  have  had  their  successes, 
and  a fairly  comprehensive  view  of  their  achievements  in  this  kind 
can  be  had  from  a sojourn  at  any  of  the  watering-places  on  the  coast 
of  New  England  or  New  Jersey.  Architecturally  as  well  as  otherwise 
Newport  is  the  most  interesting  of  these. 

The  European  historians  and  critics  of  architecture  who  have  so 
long  been  insisting  that  ‘Art  is  not  archaeology’  may  find  in  the  cur- 
rent building  of  the  United  States  that  precept  reduced  to  practice. 
An  absolute  freedom  is  the  rule  alike  among  competent  and  incom- 
petent architects , subject  with  the  former  class  to  the  artistic  unity 
of  the  resulting  work.  In  commercial  and  domestic  architecture, 
along  with  much  wildness  and  crudity , this  freedom  has  produced 
much  that  is  interesting  and  suggestive  to  the  European  student  of 
architecture,  and  that  gives  good  hope  for  the  progress  of  architecture 
in  the  United  States. 


XV.  SPORTS. 


xcv 


XV.  Sports  and  Games. 


The  interest  in  outdoor  sports,  which  once  confined  itself  to  those 
distinctively  American  pastimes,  hase-hall  and  the  trotting  race,  has 
within  the  last  thirty  years  grown  at  once  more  catholic  and  more 
intense.  Every  form  of  sport  now  has  its  devoted  admirers,  who 
follow  it  with  the  energy  and  the  enthusiasm  which  are  part  of  the 
American  character.  The  growth  of  this  taste  for  outdoor  games  has 
been  so  rapid  and  so  widespread  that  it  seems  surprising  that  it  was 
not  of  earlier  origin.  Perhaps  the  explanation  is  that  in  a new 
country  open-air  labour  is  so  general  as  to  forbid  open-air  play  5 or 
that  Americans  have  until  recently  been  too  busy  to  amuse  themselves 
except  after  sundown. 


To  enter  into  the  spirit  of  American  pastimes,  an  Englishman 
need  only  learn  to  admire  the  gait  of  the  trotting  horse  and  to  admit 
the  merits  Of  base-ball  as  a substitute  for  cricket.  All  other  sports 
are  conducted  substantially  upon  English  models.  The  Running 
Horses  (i.e.  race-horses}  are  all  of  English  blood,  and  the  tracks  are 
becoming  annually  more  like  those  of  Great  Britain,  straight  and 
hilly  courses  replacing  the  level  oval  mile  once  universal;  Football  as 
played  in  the  States  is  a modification  of  the  Rugby  game;  Lawn 
Tennis^  Cricket^  Lacrosse^  Oolf^  and  Polo  are  played  in  the  same  way 
in  both  countries;  while  Yachting,  Rowing,  and  Canoeing  are  equally 
populaf  on  each  side  of  the  Atlantic. 


Though  the  theory  that  Base-ball  is  a development  of  ^Rounders'  is 
sometimes  disputed,  the  ‘National  Game”’  is  easily  understood  by  anyone 
lamihar  with  the  old  English  pastime.  It  is  played  in  every  village,  town, 
and  city,  and  by  every  school,  college,  university,  and  athletic  club  in 
the  country  5 but  the  games  most  worth  seeing  are  those  of  the  (profes- 
sional) NaHonal  League,  in  New  York,  Boston,  Brooklyn,  Cincinnati, 
Chicago,  Philadelphia,  Pittsburg,  and  St.  Louis  5 and  of  the  American  League 
in  New  Yo^,  Boston,  Philadelphia,  Washington,  Chicago,  St.  Louis,  Cleve- 

iSiTgelj  attended,  holiday  crowds  of 
10,l)UU  or  20,000  being  not  uncommon.  The  club  ‘representing’  each  of 
these  Cities  plays  a series  of  home-and-home  games  with  every  other ; the 
winner  of  the  greatest  number  is  the  champion  of  the  year.  Minor 
Leagues  are  the  Eastern,  Atlantic,  Southern,  Pacific  Coast,  and  Western, 
with  clubs  in  the  smaller  cities.  The  best  amateur  games  are  those  of  the 
colleges  (especially  Harvard,  Yale,  Pennsylvania,  Princeton,  Georgetown,  and 
Cornell)  and  of  the  larger  athletic  clubs.  The  season  begins  in  April  and 
ends  in  October.  A base-ball  team  consists  of  nine  men , including  the 
pitcher,  catcher,  and  seven  fielders.  Large  salaries  are  paid  to  the  best 
protessional  players,  and  the  game  is  the  vehicle  of  a considerable  amount 
ot  betting  in  the  western  states. 


Horse  Races.  See  p.  20  under  New  York.  Other  meetings  are  held 
uring  the  sea^n  m or  near  Chicago,  St.  Louis,  Cincinnati,  Louisville, 
^ew  Orleans,  Washington,  Saratoga,  Memphis  (Tenn.),  Lexington  (Ky.), 
ban  Francisco,  and  elsewhere.  The  racing  at  these  tracks  is  of  varying 
quality,  but  rarely  as  good  as  on  the  New  York  circuit. 

« Races  take  place  during  the  season,  from  May  to  October, 

on  low  tracks  in  the  United  States  owned  by  racing  associations,  and  county 
and  state  fair  associations,  as  well  as  on  many  private  tracks  at  brood- 
purses,  and  added  money  amount  to  more 
tnan  bo,U()0,(XX)  annually 5 and  the  capital  invested  in  horses,  tracks. 


xcvi 


XV.  SPORTS, 


stables,  farms,  etc.,  is  enormous.  The  tracks  are  level,  with  start  and 
finish  directly  in  front  of  the  grand  stand,  and  are  either  1 M.  or  1/2  M.  in 
length.  They  are  always  of  earth,  and  aie  usually  elliptical  in  shape.  The 
horses  are  driven  in  two-wheeled  ‘sulkies’  of  little  weight,  and  the  hand- 
icaping  is  exclusively  by  time-classes.  Records  of  every  race  are  kept  by 
two  national  associations.  Horses  that  have  never  trotted  a mile  in  l^ess 
than  2 min.  40  secs,  are  in  one  class;  those  that  have  never  beaten  2.35 
in  another;  those  that  have  never  beaten  2.30  in  a third;  and  so  on  down 
to  2.5,  which  has  been  beaten  but  a dozen  times.  Races  are  always  trotted 
in  heats,  and  the  winner  must  usually  win  three  heats,  though  a sensible 
movement  has  been  recently  inaugurated,  with  the  support  of  most  of  the 
‘Grand  Circuit’  tracks , to  award  the  race  to  the  horse  which  f rst  wins 
two  heats.  With  a dozen  entries  (or  even  six  or  eight,  the  more  usual 
number)  a race  may  occupy  an  entire  afternoon,  and  require  many  heats 
before  a decision  is  reached.  Betting  is  c(  mmon  at  every  meeting,  but  is 
not  so  prominent  as  at  running  tracks.  The  pacing  gait  is  becoming  more 
common,  and  at  many  race-meetings  the  purses  offered  for  the  pacing 
classes  are  almost  as  numerous  as  those  offered  for  the  trotters.  The  best 
races  are  to  be  seen  at  the  tracks  of  the  ‘Grand  Circuit’.  This  circuit 
holds  meetings,  of  from  four  to  eight  days  each,  in  or  near  Detroit,  Cleve- 
land, Columbus  (0.),  Buffalo,  New  York,  Brooklyn,  Boston,  Providence, 
Hartford  (Conn.),  Cinncinnati,  Lexington  (Ky.) , and  Memphis.  A feature 
of  many  of  these  meetings  is  the  attempt  of  famous  horses,  accompanied 
only  by  a lunning  or  pacing  mate,  to  ‘break  the  .record  for  a mile.  In 
1903  the  trotting -record  was  for  the  first  time  brought  within  two  minutes, 
when  ‘Lou  Dillon’  covered  the  distance  in  1.5872  Memphis.  At  the  same 
meeting,  ‘Dan  Patch’  reduced  the  pacing  record  to  1.56V4.  The  best  brood- 
farms  for  the  development  of  trotting  and  pacing  horses  are  in  Kentucky 
and  California.  Each  farm  has  an  annual  auction -sale  of  its  produce, 
either  at  home  or  in  New  York  City. 

Hunting  is  much  in  vogue  in  the  neighbourhood  of  New  York,  though 
the  place  of  a fox  is  generally  taken  by  a ‘drag’.  There  are  frequent 
meets  with  one  of  the  packs  of  Meadowlrook,  Rockaway,  Orange^  or  White 
Plains.  Boston,  Philadelphia,  and  Washington  also  support  packs.  The 
wild  fox  is  hunted  in  the  Qeneseo  Valley  (N.  Y.),  at  Media  (Pa.),  and  at 
Barre  (Mass.).  Near  the  cities  the  sport  is  indulged  in  maiiily  by  active 
business-men  who  cannot  spare  more  than  an  afternoon  for  it. 

Shooting  and  Fishing  are  generally  open  to  all-comers  during  the 
legal  season,  upon  payment  in  some  cases  of  a moderate  fee  to  the 
authorized  state  official,  though  the  number  of  game  and  fish-preserves  is 
increasing.  The  Game  Laws  are  different  in  each  of  the  States  and 
Territories  and  cannot  be  conveniently  condensed.  They  are  Pointed  for 
public  distribution  by  the  Government  (Farmer’s  Bulletin  No.  180,  of  the 
Department  of  Agriculture)  and  in  the  ‘Woodcraft  Magazine’,  published  by 
the  Forest  & Stream  Co.  (346  Broadway,  New  York  City). 

Of  the  33,C00  sq.  M.  in  the  state  of  Maine  about  one-half  is  an  almost 
uninhabited  wilderness  of  forest.  Here  are  1500  lakes,  thousands  of 
streams  and  rivulets,  and  miles  upon  miles  of  hunting-grounds,  where 
the  sportsman  may  find  large  game  and  small  and  fishing  and  shooting  of 
almost  all  kinds.  His  visit  should  be  made  not  earlier  than  the  middle  ot 
July,  when  the  black  fly  has  passed,  and  may  continue  until  after  the 
middle  of  October,  when  the  open  season  for  deer  and  moose  begins. 
By  law  he  may  fish  in  fresh  water  from  May  to  Sept,  inclusive,  and  hunt 
from  Sept,  to  Dec.  inclusive,  the  greater  sport  being  permitted  from  the 
day  the  quieter  ceases.  Bears,  foxes,  wild-cats,  and  wolves  he  may  kill 
at  any  time,  and  opportunities  for  doing  so  are  not  unlikely  to  occur. 
Ducks,  geese,  loons,  and  herons  abound;  and  siuaU  game  of  every  hind 
is  common.  The  region  may  be  entered  at  Greenville^  on  MooseJiead  Lake 
(p.  131),  the  largest  sheet  of  water  in  the  State.  Here  guides  may  be 
obtained  at  $3  per  day,  who  furnish  canoes,  cooking  utensils,  and  tents. 
It  is  best,  of  course,  to  camp  out.  For  this,  one  guide  is  required  for 
each  visitor;  food  will  cost  about  $1  per  day,  and  other  equipment  may 


XY.  SPORTS. 


xcvii 


be  purchased  beforehand,  or  hired  at  Greenville  or  any  other  point  selected 
for  entering  the  woods.  A good  rifle,  a pole  (fishing-rod),  lines,  flies, 
reels,  stout  boots,  and  plenty  of  blankets  — these  are  the  necessities,  and 
beyond  these  one  may  take  an  outfit  as  complete  or  as  modest  as  desired. 
Care  should  be  taken  in  the  selection  of  guides.  In  July  and  Aug.  it  is 
not  easy  to  get  good  ones.  A party  of  four,  with  four  or  five  guides,  is 
as  large  as  is  desirable.  — The  region  may  be  entered  from  the  other  side, 
almost  as  conveniently,  from  the  stations  on  the  Bangor  & Aroostook  E,.  R. 
between  Norcross  and  Ashland. 

The  Rangeley  Lakes  (p.  141)  are  more  accessible  than  Greenville,  but 
the  banting  there  is  not  so  good,  though  the  fishing  is  excellent,  particularly 
in  May  and  June.  The  wilderness  may  be  penetrated  in  canoes  from  either 
point  for  hundreds  of  miles,  with  increasing  chances  of  game. 

The  Adirondack  Region  (p.  209)  has  a smaller  area  than  the  Maine 
wilderness,  and  the  shooting  is  not  so  good.  Deer  may  be  met  with, 
however,  the  open  season  lasting  from  Sept.  1st  to  Nov.  15th.  But  al- 
though large  hotels,  steam  launches,  and  even  railroads  are  now  found 
throughout  the  Adirondacks,  the  trout-fishing  is  still  excellent.  The  season 
lasts  from  April  16th  to  Aug.  31st.  A large  part  of  the  region  is  owned  by 
the  State  and  reserved  as  a public  park.  August  is  the  best  month  for  a 
visits  and  the  sportsman  may  g)  directly  to  one  of  the  hotels  in  the  region, 
relying  upon  the  guides,  provisions,  and  equipments  there  to  be  found. 

There  is  also  good  hunting  in  the  mountains  of  Pennsylvania,  the 
Virginias,  Tennessee,  and  North  Carolina;  and  in  the  Far  West  the  biggest 
game  is  found.  Deer  are  abundant,  too,  in  Louisiana,  Mississippi,  Florida, 
and  Alabama,  and  venison  has  within  recent  years  been  cheaper  than  beef 
in  the  markets  of  New  Orleans.  But  the  limits  of  this  article  forbid  more 
than  a mention  of  these  facts. 

Wild  Fowl  abound  on  the  coast  from  Maine  to  Florida;  the  season  for 
duck,  etc.,  usually  opens  about  Sept.  1st  and  continues  to  April. 

Tarpon  Fishing  in  the  deep-sea  water  off  Florida,  best  from  Feb.  to 
May,  is  a superb  sport  (comp.  p.  443). 

BuFctloes  are  nearly  extinct.  There  are  not  over  1000  on  the  con- 
tinent ; of  these  500  are  in  Yellowstone  Park,  where  the  sound  of  a gun  is 
never  heard.  Another  herd  is  preserved  in  the  Corbin  Park,  New  Hamp- 
shire (p.  152). 

The  Mountain  Sheep  and  Rocky  Mountain  Goat^  in  the  Far  West,  are 
generally  protected  by  law  from  Jan.  to  Sept. ; in  some  States  they  cannot 
be  legally  killed  at  all. 

Bicycling.  This  sport  is  les^  popular  than  it  was  a few  years  ago, 
and  the  number  of  clubs  and  of  individual  riders  has  considerably  decreased. 
The  roads  in  the  United  States  are  not  good  for  wheeling,  except  near 
large  cities  and  in  a few  eastern  counties.  They  are,  however,  constantly 
being  improved,  and  long  tours,  even  across  the  continent,  are  now  often 
made.  ^ The  League  of  American  Wheelmen^  which  has  members  in  every 
State,  is  doing  what  it  can  to  improve  the  country-roads,  with  some  success. 
Already  by  political  action,  it  has  secured  for  the  wheelman  many  rights 
formerly  denied  him,  including  the  freedom  of  public  parks,  in  almost  all 
cities,  on  an  equality  with  other  vehicles.  Clubs  exist  in  every  city. 
Professional  bicycle  - racing,  upon  specially  constructed  tracks,  the  riders 
being  ‘paced’  by  motor-machines,  has  become  very  popular  in  recent  years. 
There  are  tracks  near  most  of  the  larger  cities,  and  the  meetings  are  under 
control  of  the  National  Cyclists''  Association.  The  Cyclists''  Touring  Club  of 
England  is  represented  in  the  United  States  by  a Chief  Consul  (Mr.  Frank 
W.  Weston,  Savin  Hill,  Boston,  Mass.)  and  Consuls  in  many  towns  and 
cities.  Manufacturers  or  dealers,  from  whom  information  may  be  sought 
and  wheels  hired,  are  to  be  found  in  almost  every  town. 

Motoring.  This  sport,  although  necessarily  confined  to  the  comparatively 
wealthy,  and  somewhat  interfered  with  by  the  inferiority  of  many  rural 
roads,  is  engaged  in  by  increasing  numbers.  There  are  races  and  speed 
trials  on  many  tracks  in  the  summer  and  autumn,  and  at  Ormona  Beach 
CFlorida)  in  the  winter. 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Ediu 


g 


vcviii 


XY.  SPORTS. 


Lawn  Tennis.  The  annual  All-comers  Tournament  is  held  at  Rew- 
,ort  in  August-,  the  winner  plays  the  champion  of  the  year  for  the 

hampionship  at  singles.  A Western  Championship  Tournament  at  doubles 
ccur?  in  Chicago  in  July,  and  Eastern  in  Boston  ^ the  winners  of  these 
nppt  at  Newport.  The  Ladies  Championships  are  decided  in  Philadelphia. 

Ml  these  are  open  to  members  of  recognized  clubs,  American  or  foreign, 
^he  Davis  International  Challenge  Trophy  presented  by  American  plEjyers 
7 as  won  by  the  brothers  Doherty  in  1903  and  taken  to  England.  There 
re  many  minor  tournaments  during  the  season  (May  to  Oct),  usually  open 
o strangers  A Tropical  Championship  Tournament  is  held  in  St.  Augustine, 
Oorida  during  the  winter.  The  National  Association  is  the  governing 
.ody,  and  there  are  clubs  and  courts  in  every  city,  and  in  many  of  the 
mailer  towns  and  villages  as  well. 

Hand-Ball,  Squash,  and  Bacquets.  Courts  for  these 
in  many  gymnasia  and  athlethic  club-houses  and  the  game  of 
vhich  mil  be  described  as  a milder  variation  of  in-door  foot-ball,  which 
vomen  as  well  as  men  can  play,  has  become  popular,  particularly  in  school 
md  college  gymnasia. 

Cricket.  The  best  clubs  are  in  Philadelphia  (see  p.  260)^  in  New  York 
md  Chicago  a few  Englishmen  play,  and  some  of  the  colleges  have  elevens, 
ae  game®  howler,  has  never  secured  a good  foothold,  being  generally 
onsidered  too  slow  as  compared  with  base-ball. 

Golf  has  become  very  popular  in  the  United  States,  and  links  Imve 
■-een  laid  out  all  over  the  country.  There  is  an  Association  of  American  Golf 
Clubs  to  which  most  of  the  local  organisations  belong.  Under  the  auspices 
of  this  association,  tournaments  for  the  National  Amateur  Championship, 
ihe  Open  Championship,  and  the  Ladies  Championship  are  annually  held, 
■he  finest  courses  in  the  country  being  selected  in  rotation  for  this  purpose. 
'Acre  are  X many  local  and  inter-urban  competitions  during  the  season. 
Comp.  p.  22. 

Polo  and  Court  Tennis  have  their  headquarters  at  Newport.  There  are 
more  than  thirty  polo -clubs  in  the  country,  the  most  important  being  the 
nTadowbrook.  Rockaway,  Lakewood,  and  Westchester  Country  Clubs  near  Nevv 
Vork  the  Myopia  and  Hedham  Clubs  near  Boston,  and  the  Bryn 
Philadelphia  Country  Clubs  near  Philadelphia.  - Lacrosse  is 
<:ian  game,  but  there  is  a Lacrosse  League  in  the  cities  of  the  Atlantic 
roast,  and  the  game  is  played  at  several  other  colleges. 

Yachting.  The  principal  clubs  are  in  New  York  and  Boston.  The  New 
^ork  Yach/club,  by  far  the  largest,  holds  its  most  ^portant  races  off 
:^ewport  the  Eastern  Yacht  Club  off  Marblehead  (Ma^s  ).  The  spor  is  popular 
ill  along  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  there  is  no  little  sailing,  gene^lly  of  smal 
^raft  ^^f  tht  Great  Lakes  and  other  inland  bodies  of  water.  The  races  for 
The  famous  international  trophy  known 

curred  four  times  in  the  last  decade,  are  held  in  New  York  Lower  Bay. 

Hewing.  The  National  Association  of  Amateur  Oarsmen  is  the  g^overn- 
ing  body  and  holds  an  annual  regatta,  over  a different  course  each  year. 

ether  associations  are  the  New  England,  o^HarllrT' ^ 

<he  Southern  Among  the  best  eight-oared  crews  are  those  of  Harvai  a,  rate, 
Columbia  Cornell,  Wisconsin,  and  Pennsylvania  Harvard  and 

Vale  race  at  New  London  (p.’ 83)  in  June-,  the  others  either  there  or  on  the 
iludson  Kiver  or  at  Saratoga. 

Canoeing.  The  American  Canoe  Association  holds  an  annual  meeting  in 
Aug.,  usually  in  Northern  New  York.  There  are  canoeists  almost  every 
cfrLm  in  the  countrv.  and  many  clubs.  Sailing  is  developed  at  the  ex- 
i ense  of  paddling-,  in  other  respects  the  customs  are  similar  to  taose  in 
-’ngland.  ^ , , , 

Football.  The  game  played  is  a development  of  the  Rugby  game,  but 
is  played  >ith  team"  of  eleven  a side  instead  of  fifteen  and  with  a n uch 
:aore  complicated  code  of  playing-rules  and  tactics 

■on,  Pennsylvania,  Cornell,  West  Point,  and  Annapolis  have  the  best  eleven 


XV.  SPORTS. 


xcix 


in  the  East;  Chicago^  Michigan^  Wisconsin^  and  Mirmesota  in  the  West.  The 
important  matches  between  these  elevens  are  played  in  November,  and  30,000 
or  even  40,000  spectators  are  often  present.  Almost  every  college  and  school 
in  the  country  and  many  athletic  clubs  have  elevens,  but  there  are  no  pro- 
fessional teams  of  any  importance.  The  season  is  very  short,  beginning  in 
Sept,  and  closing  with  the  last  of  November. 

Bowling  (‘Ten-Pins’)  is  a favourite  amusement  of  both  sexes  through- 
out the  United  States,  and  alleys  are  attached  to  most  gymnasia  and  athletic 
club  buildings,  as  well  as  to  many  summer-hotels  and  amusement-halls. 
Tournaments  of  local  interest  are  constantly  held  during  the  winter  months, 
and  the  American  Bowling  Congress  has  an  annual  competition  in  February 
her  the  national  championship,  each  year  in  a different  city. 

Athletics.  The  track-events  are  the  same  as  those  contested  in  Eng- 
land, though  the  character  of  the  country  and  the  climate  make  long-distance 
and  cross-country  running  far  less  popular,  and  the  short  races  (100  yards 
to  1/2  M.)  are  more  generally  contested.  An  innovation  is  the  very  short  sprint 
(30-50  yards),  often  contested  at  indoor  winter  games.  In  hurdle-racing 
and  jumping  the  standards  are  very  high;  walking  is  not  much  practised. 
In  weight-throwing  the  rules  differ  radically  from  the  English.  The  chief 
athletic  clubs  are  the  New  York  A.  (?.,  the  Boston  A.  A.,  the  Columbia  A.  C. 
(Washington),  the  Southern  A.  C.  (New  Orleans),  the  Crescent  A.  C.  (Brooklyn) 
the  Olympic  A.  C.  (San  Francisco),  the  Buffalo  A.  C. , the  Detroit  A.  C.,  the 
Duquesne  A.  C.  (Pittsburg),  and  the  A.  C.  of  the  Schuylkill  Navy  (Philadelphia). 
Most  of  these  hold  spring  and  autumn  meetings ; and  indoor  games  are 
held  in  armouries  and  other  large  halls,  so  that  the  season  practically  lasts 
throughout  the  year.  It  is  at  its  height,  however,  in  May,  June,  and  Sept. 
Many  of  the  colleges  send  representatives  to  the  Intercollegiate  Athletic  As 
sociatioffs  meeting,  which  is  held  each  year  in  May  on  the  track  of  one  or 
other  of  the  leading  Eastern  universities;  Harvard,  Yale,  Pennsylvania 
and  Princeton  lead  the  others.  There  are  also  scores  of  less  important  inter- 
collegiate and  interscholastic  meetings  during  the  spring  and  early  summer. 

Rifle  Shooting.  The  National  Rifle  Association  holds  an  annual  meeting 
at  Sea  Girt  (N.  J.)  with  various  inter-state  and  inter -club  matches.  An 
American  team,  shooting  at  Bisley,  England,  in  1903,  captured  the  Palma 
Trophy  which  had  been  won  by  a Canadian  team  in  1901,  and  by  an  English 
team  in  1902. 

Boxing  and  Wrestling  have  many  devotees.  Prize-fighting  is  forbidden 
by  law  in  most  states,  but  pugilistic  encounters,  where  they  are  permitted, 
draw  thousands  of  spectators. 

Winter  Sports.  The  severity  of  the  northern  winters  offers  opportunity 
for  many  exhilarating  outdoor  sports.  Skating^  Coasting.,  and  Tobogganing 
are  enjoyed  by  millions,  and  the  large  number  of  citizens  of  Norwegian  or 
Swedish  origin  has  led  to  the  introduction  of  the  Scandinavian  pastime, 
Ski-running,  into  the  States,  where  it  has  been  adopted  with  enthusiasm. 
Ice-Hockey  and  Curling  are  also  practised  in  many  parts  of  the  country. 


XVI.  Educational,  Charitable,  Penal,  and  Industrial 
Institutions. 

The  object  of  many  visitors  to  the  United  States  is  to  study  its 
systems  of  schools,  prisons,  or  charities,  or  to  inspect  the  working  of 
its  leading  industrial  establishments.  For  such  visitors  the  subjoined 
brief  index-lists  may  be  serviceable. 

a.  Educational  Institutions, 

by  President  Nicholas  Murray  Butler  of  Columbia  University. 

Public  Education  is  regulated  by  the  several  States.  The  United 
btates  Bureau  of  Education,  established  in  1867  (Dr.  William  T.  Harris, 


XVI.  EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS. 


present  Commissioner  of  Education),  maintains  a library  and  educational 
museum  at  Washington  and  issues  an  annual  report.  It  has,  however,  no 
direct  authority  over  education  in  the  States. 

Each  State  maintains  an  elaborate  system  of  public  schools  ^ those  of 
the  N.  and  W.  States  {e,  g.^  New  York,  Massachusetts,  New  Jersey,  Michi- 
gan, Minnesota,  Iowa,  California,  etc.)  are  especially  well  organized  and  ad- 
ministered. In  addition  to  providing  free  elementary  and  secondary  educa- 
tion, many  of  the  W.  States  maintain  free  universities,  the  original  funds  for 
the  endowment  of  the  same  having  been  derived  from  the  sale  or  rental  of 
public  lands  given  by  Congress  for  the  purpose.  The  largest  of  these  are 
the  University  of  Michigan  at  Ann  Arbor  (p.  339),  the  University  of  Wisconsin 
at  Madison  (p.  362),  the  University  of  California  at  Berkeley  (p.  502),  the 
University  of  Minnesota  at  Minneapolis  (p.  369),  and  the  University  of  Illinois 
at  Champaign  (p.  402). 

As  a rule,  however,  the  great  colleges  and  universities  are  private 
foundations  managed  by  a corporation  or  board  of  trustees.  Of  these  the 
oldest  is  Harvard  University  (founded  in  1636)  at  Cambridge  (p.  112).  In 
1902-3  the  gross  annual  expenditure  of  Harvard,  excluding  the  cost  of  new 
buildings,  exceeded  $ 1,50’0,000.  About  6000  students  are  now  in  attendance. 
The  other  great  universities  of  this  class  are  the  Johns  Hopkins  University  at 
Baltimore  (p.  305,  founded  in  1376),  which  has  had  a profound  influence 
on  higher  education  in  America;  Columbia  University  in  New  York  (p.  62; 
founded  as  a college  in  1754,  reorganized  as  a university  in  1890) ; Cornell 
University  at  Ithaca  (p.  236;  founded  in  1865);  Yale  University  (p.  77 ; 
founded  in  1700);  Princeton  University  Cp.257;  founded  as  a college  in 
1746);  the  University  of  Pennsylvania  (p.  272);  and  the  University  of  Vir- 
ginia, Charlottesville  (p.  380;  founded  in  1819).  Among  the  newly  founded 
institutions  are  the  Catholic  University  of  America  at  Washington  (p.  324), 
the  University  of  Chicago  (p.  355),  and  Stanford  University  (p.  557). 

There  are  about  4(^  colleges  in  the  United  States  in  addition  to  the 
great  universities.  Well-known  colleges  are  Amherst  (p.  84),  Williams 
(p.  180),  Hamilton  (Clinton,  N.  Y.),  Miami  (Ohio),  Lafayette  (p.  247),  Rutgers 
(p.  257),  and  Knox. 

The  leading  colleges  exclusively  for  women  are  Wellesley  (p.  82),  Vas- 
sar  (p.  193),  Smith  (p.  182),  and  Bryn  Mawr  (p.  287). 

Technological  education  is  given  at  Harvard,  Columbia,  and  Cornell 
Universities,  as  well  as  at  institutions  exclusively  for  that  purpose.  Of  the 
special  schools  for  the  training  of  engineers,  architects,  etc.,  the  most  worthy 
of  a visit  are  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology  (p.  104),  Stevens 
Institute  of  Technology  (p.  67),  Rensselaer  Polytechnic  Institute  (Troy, 
p.  185),  and  Rose  Polytechnic  Institute  (Terre  Haute,  p.  388). 

Of  city  school  svstems  the  best  are,  perhaps,  those  of  New  York 
(p.  7),  Minneapolis  (p".  367),  Indianapolis  (p.  378),  Denver  (p.  511),  Kansas 
City  (Mo.h  p.  506),  Boston  and  Brookline  (R.  5),  and  Cleveland  (p.  331). 
Duluth  (p.  379),  Detroit  (p.  335),  Springfield  (p.  80),  and  Denver  have  the 
finest  high-school  buildings  and  equipment.  Kindergartens  will  be  found 
in  the  public  schools  of  New  York,  Washington  (p.  308),  Boston,  Philadelphia 
(p.  259),  San  Francisco  (p.  553),  and  elsewhere. 

Literature : The  Annual  Reports  of  the  United  States  Commissioner  of 
Education  and  the  Annual  Reports  of  the  State  and  Municipal  School  Author- 
ities and  of  the  Presidents  of  the  great  universities,  all  of  which  may 
usually  be  had  free  on-  request.  The  only  work  giving  a complete  view 
of  the  American  educational  system  is  ‘Education  in  the  United  States’ 
(2  vols.,  Albany,  N.  Y. , P.  B.  Lym  Co.),  a series  of  20  monographs  by 
different  writers. 

b.  Correctional  and  Charitable  Institutions, 

Penal  Institutions.  New  York  State  Penitentiaries  at  Ossining  (p.  192) 
and  Auburn  (p.  236).  — Institutions  on  Blackwell’s  Island  (p.  66).  — Eastern 
Penitentiary  at  Philadelphia  (p.  269 ; the  only  prison  in  the  country  man- 
aged on  the  ‘separate  system’).  — Western  Penitentiary,  at  Allegheny 
(p.  299).  — Massachusetts  State  Prison  at  Charlestown  (p.  il5).  — Boston 


XYI.  CHARITABLE  INSTITUTIONS. 


ci 


House  of  Correction,  at  Deer  Island  (p.  115).  — Northern  Illinois  Peniten- 
tiary, at  Joliet  (p.  493).  Southern  Illinois  Penitentiary,  at  Chester.  — Ohio 
Penitentiary,  at  Columbus  (p.  327).  — California  State  Prisons,  at  San 
Quentin  and  Folsom. 

Reformatories.  New  York  State  Reformatory,  Elmira  (p.  245).  — 
Massachusetts  Reformatory,  Concord  (p.  146).  — Reformatory  Prison  for 
Women,  South  Framingham,  Mass.  (p.  82).  — Pennsylvania  Industrial  Re- 
formatory, Huntingdon  (p.  289).  — Michigan  Reformatory,  Ionia  (Mich.). 

— Ohio  Reformatory  at  Mansfield  (p.  326).  — Illinois  Reformatory  at 
Pontiac  (111.). 

Lunatic  Hospitals  and  Asylums.  Mount  Hope  Retreat  for  the  Insane 
Baltimore  (p.  307).  — Eastern  Michigan  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  Pontiac 
(Mich.).  — State  Lunatic  Asylum,  Utica  (p.  233). —Willard  Asylum  for  the 
Insane,  Willard  (N.Y.).  — Massachusetts  Lunatic  Hospital  and  Asylums  at 
Worcester  (p.  81),  Danvers  (Mass.),  Westborough  (Mass.),  and  Waverly 
(Mass.).  — Ohio  Asylums  for  the  Insane  at  Columbus  (p.  327),  Toledo 
(p.  333),  and  Cleveland  (p.  331).  — Hospital  for  the  Insane  in  Philadelphia 
(p.  273).  — Illinois  Eastern  Hospital  for  the  Insane,  at  Kankakee  (p.  378). 

— Hospital  for  Dipsomaniacs  and  Inebriates  at  Foxborough  (Mass.). 

Institutions  for  the  Blind.  Perkins  Institution  for  the  Blind,  Boston 
(p.  111).  — Illinois  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the  Blind,  Jacksonville 
(p.  507).  — New  York  Institutions  for  the  Blind,  at  New  York  (p.  51)  and 
Batavia  (p.  237).  — Pennsylvania  Institution  for  the  Instruction  of  the 
Blind,  Philadelphia  (p.  259).  — Ohio  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the 
Blind,  Columbus  (p.  327). 

Institutions  for  the  Deaf.  The  most  important  of  these  are  at  North- 
ampton (p.  182),  Flint  (Mich.),  New  York  City  (p.  64),  Columbus  (p.  327), 
Indianapolis  (p.  378),  Jacksonville  (p.  507),  Hartford  (p.  79),  Philadelphia 
(p.  259),  Knoxville  (p.  424),  and  Delavan  (Wis.). 

Reformatories  for  Youth.  Among  the  largest  of  these  are  the  insti- 
tutions at  West  Meriden  (Conn.),  Plainfield  (p.  258),  Baltimore  (p.  301), 
Carroll  (Md.)^  Westborough  (Mass.;  for  boys),  Lancaster  (Mass.;  for  girls), 
Lansing  (p.  d38),  Jamesburg  (N.  J.),  Randall’s  Island  (p.  66),  Rochester 
(p.  238),  Westchester  (N.Y.),  Lancaster  (Ohio),  Cincinnati  (p.  384),  Phila- 
delphia (p.  257),  Morganza  (Pa.),  Providence  (p.  84),  and  Waukesha  (p.  361). 

c.  Industrial  Establishments. 

I.  Metallic  Industeies  and  Machinekt.  Homestead  and  Edgar  Thomson 
Steel  Works,  near  Pittsburg  (see  p.  298);  Pennsylvania  Steel  Co.,  at  Steel- 
ton  (p.  288)  and  Sparrow’s  Point  (p.  302);  Cambria  Steel  Co.,  Johnstown 
(p.  290);  Illinois  Steel  Co.,  Chicago  (p.  349);  iron  and  steel  works  at  Cleve- 
land (p.  331),  Buffalo  (p.  239),  Wilmington  (p.  300),  Bethlehem  (p.  281),  Sharon 
(Penna.),  and  Birmingham  (p.  426) ; agricultural  machinery  at  Chicago  (p.  349; 
McCormick),  Louisville  (p.  395,  Avery),  Columbus  (p.  327),  Akron  (p.  345), 
Springfield  (p.  383),  Canton  (p.  326),  Moline  (111.),  and  Hoosick  Falls  (p.  173); 
sewing  machines  at  Bridgeport  (p.  76)  and  Elizabeth  (p.  257);  silver  and 
plated  goods  at  Providence  (p.  84),  New  York  (p.  7;  Whiting  Co.),  Meriden 
(p.  78),  Taunton  (p.  94),  and  Attleboro  (p.  86);  bicycles  at  Hartford  (p.  79); 
stoves  at  Troy  (p.  185)  and  Buffalo  (p.  239);  wire  at  Worcester  (p.  81);  safes 
at  Cincinnati  (p.  384);  smelting  works  at  Denver  (p.  513);  locomotives  at 
Philadelphia  (Baldwin’s;  p.  268),  Schenectady  (p.  232),  Richmond  (p.  409), 
and  Altoona  (p.  289).  — II.  Textile  Industeies.  Cotton  at  Manchester  (p.  152X 
Lawrence  (p  127),  Fall  River  (p.  93),  New  Bedford  (p.  120),  Lowell  (p.  151), 
Chicopee  (p.  181),  Baltimore  (p.  301;  cotton-duck),  Columbia  (p.  435),  Charlotte 
(p.  418),  and  Augusta  (p.  438);  woollens  at  Lawrence  (p.  127),  Lowell  (p.  151), 
and  Providence  (p.  84);  linen  at  Willimantic  (p.  87);  carpets  at  Philadel- 
phia (p.  259)  and  Lowell  (p.  151);  silk  at  South  Manchester  (Conn.)  and 
Paterson  (p.  243):  shirts  and  collars  at  Troy  (p.  185).  — III.|Food  Peoducts. 
Flour  at  Minneapolis  (p.  367)  and  St.  Louis  (p.  389);  malt  liquors  at 
St.  Louis  (p.  389),  Milwaukee  (p.  359),  and  Rochester  (p.  238);  wine  at  St.  Louis 
(p.  389),  Charlottesville  (p.  380),  and  in  California  (comp.  p.  560);  meat 
packing  at  Chicago  (p.  357),  Kansas  City  (p.  507),  and  Omaha  (p.  492);  sugar 


cU 


XYII.  BIBLIOGRAPHY. 


at  Brooklyn  (p.  69)  and  Philadelphia  (P-^TO  — IV.  Glass  and  Pottery. 
Trenton  (p.  258)  ^ Elwood  (Ind.)-,  Findlay  (Ohio)^  Pittsburg  (see  pp.  296,  297). 
— V Carriages.  Columbus  (p.  327)^  South  Bend  (p.  333;  Studehaker) ; Con- 
cord (p.  152);  Cincinnati  (p.  384);  New  York  (p  7;  Cunningham).  — VI 
Railway  Rolling  Stock.  Pullman  (P;;^357);  Bufialo  (p.  239);  Dayton 


(p.  133  ; sailing  vessels).  VIII.  Paper.  Holyoke  (p.  181);  Springfield  (p  . 
envelopes).  - IX.  Oil.  Cleveland  (p.  331) ; Bayonne  (N.  J.) ; Men^his  (p.  403 ; 
cotton  seed  oil);  New  Orleans  (p.  461;  cotton  seed  oil).  - X Tobacco 
St.  Louis  (p.  389);  Richmond  (p.  409);  Durham  fp.  418)  ; Je^ey  City  (p.  67). 
— XI.  Fire-Arms.  Springfield  (p.  80);  Hartford  (p.  79).  — XII.  Boots  and 
Shoes.  Lynn  (p.  121);  Brockton  (p.  119).  - XIII.  PL^nos.  New  York  (Steim 
way) ; Boston  (p.  94;  Chickering).  — XIV.  Watches.  Waltham  (p.  146)  ;^Elgin 
( p.  491);  Waterbury  (p.80).  —XV.  Electric  Works  Lynn  (p.  121;  Thomp- 
son-Houston);  Schenectady  (p.  232);  Newark  (p.  2^;  Eaison).  - XVI. 
Marble  Quarries  of  Vermont  (Rutland;  p.  149)  and  Tennessee  (Xnoxville; 
T).  424).  — XVII.  Chemicals  & Drugs.  Solvay  Process  Co.  at  Syracuse  (p.idD) 
Ld  Detroit  (p.  336);  other  works  at  Detroit  (PP- 336,  337);  St.  Louis  (p.  331; 
Meyer);  Richmond  (p.  409);  Charleston  (p.  43o);  Sault-Ste  Marie  (p.  374). 

Comp.  ‘The  Progress  of  the  United  States  in  its  Material  Industries  , a 
statement  issued  by  the  Department  of  Commerce  and  Labour. 


XVII.  Bibliography. 

The  following  is  a very  small  selection  of  the  most  recent,  inter- 
esting, and  easily  accessible  books  on  some  of  the  main  topics  on 
which  visitors  to  the  United  States  should  be  informed.  A few 
records  of  the  impressions  of  English  travellers  are  included.  Nu- 
merous other  works  of  local  interest  are  referred  to  throughout  the 
text  of  the  Handbook. 

The  American  Commonwealth,  by  James  Bryce  (new  ed.,  l»yo;  tne 
best  and  most  comprehensive  account  of  the  political  and  social  institutions 
of  the  United  States).  — History  of  American  Politics,  by  AUx.  Johnstm 
(4th  edit.,  1898).  — American  Political  Ideas,  and  Civil  Government  in  the 
United  States,  two  lucid  little  books  by  John  Fiske  (1885  and  1890).  — Our 
Government,  by  Macy  (1887).  — Actual  Government  as  Applied  under  Ainerican 
Conditions,  by  Prof.  Albert  Bushnell  Hart  (1904;  with  a good  hibliogr^hy).  — 
See  also  the  Johns  Hopkins  University  Studies  in  Historical  and  Political 
Science,  ed.  by  Prof.  Herbert  B.  Adams;  The  Federalist,  a series  of  essays 
by  Hamilton.,  Madison.^  and  Jay  (1787-88;  ed.  by  H.  (7.  1888),  and  the 

works  by  De  Tocqueville  (1835),  Von  Holst  (1876-85),  Cooley  (‘Constitutional 
Law’),  and  Ashley  CThe  American  Federal  State’). 

Histories  of  the  United  States,  by  George  Bancroft.,  J.  B.  McMaster., 
Jnstin  Winsor^  B.  Hildreth.^  J.  Schouler,  Henry  Adams,  Rhodes  (with  best  ac^unt 
of  the  Civil  War),  Woodrow  Wilson,  Ghanning,  McLaughlin,  Goldwin  hmith 
(a  brief  but  admirable  outline),  T.  W.  Higginson  (for  children).  See  also 
Vol.  VII.  of  the  Cambridge  Modern  History  (1903)  — The  American  Nation, 
a history  from  original  materials  by  associated  scholars,  edited  by  Prof. 
Albert  Bushnell  Hart,  is  a complete  and  comprehensive  work,  the  successive 
volumes  of  which  will  probably  appear  between  1904  and  1909.  W.  L.  H. 
Lecky  gives  a good  account  of  Colonial  conditions  in  his  History  oi  Englanu 
in  the  Eighteenth  Century  (1878-90).  — A Short  History  of  the  War  of 
Secession,  by  Rossiter  Johnson  (1888).  — The  American  Revolution,  by 
Sir  George  Otto  Trevelyan  (Part  I,  1899;  Part  II,  1903).  - The  American 
Advance,  by  G.  Carpenter  (1903).  — American  Statesmen,  a series  edited 
by  John  T.  Morse,  Jr.  — American  Historic  Towns,  a series  edited  by  Lyman 
P.  Powell  (1902  et  seq.).  — Story  of  the  Civil  War,  by  /.  C.  Ropes  (1894).  — 
John  Fiske'' s excellent  works  on  special  periods  and  phases  of  American 


XVII.  BIBLIOGRAPHY. 


cii 


history  practically  form  a connected  story  down  to  the  establishment  o 
Federal  government.  — American  History  told  by  Contemporaries,  edited  b 
A.  B.  Hart  (1897-1901).  — The  Story  of  the  Hevolution,  by  Henry  Cabt 
Lodge  (1899).  — Financial  History  of  the  United  States,  by  Davis  L.  Dewey.  - 
Comp.  Guide  to  the  Study  of  American  History,  by  Bdw.  Channing  ans 
A.  B.  Hart  (1886). 

The  United  States,  by  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney^  is  a mine  of  information 
on  the  physical  geography  and  material  resources  of  the  country  (1889) 
while  1 he  United  States : A Study  of  the  American  Commonwealth,  edite 
by  Prof.  N.  8.  Shaler  (1894),  is  still  more  comprehensive  in  its  scope.  Comp 
Elis&e  /Sec/ws’  Nouvelle  Geographie  Universelle  (vols.  xv-xix,  1890-94),  am. 
Henry  Gannett" s United  States  (vol.  ii  of  North  America  in  Stanfords  Compen 
dium  of  Geography,  new  issue,  1898).  — The  Stately  Homes  in  America 
by  H.  W.  Desmond  and  H.  Groly  (illus.  ^ 1903).  — Greater  America,  by  Arch 
Colquhoun  (1904). 

The  American  Geological  Railway  Guide,  by  James  MacFarlane.^  is  a 
unique  compilation,  showing  the  geological  formation  at  every  railway 
station. 

A Visit  to  the  States,  by  Joel  Cook  (letters  reprinted  from  the  ‘Times’ 
recommended  for  reading  on  the  voyage  across  the  Atlantic  ^ 1887-88:  tw(. 
series.  Is.  each).  — Some  Impressions  of  the  United  States,  by  F A 
Freeman  (1883).  — American  Notes,  by  Charles  Dickens  (1842).  — My  Diary 
North  and  South,  by  Sir  W.  H.  Russell  (relating  to  the  Civil  War).  — Whit 
and  Black  in  America,  by  Sir  George  Campbell  (1889).  — Jonathan  and  hi 
Continent,  and  A Frenchman  in  America,  by  Max  O' Bell  (1889  and  1891)  - 
Our  Kin  across  the  Sea , by  J.  C.  Firth  (1888).  — The  Land  of  the  Doliar 
by  G.  W.  Steevens  (1897).  — America  at  Work,.bv  J.  Foster  Fraser  (1903)  - 
American  Traits,  by  Prof.  Hugo  Miinsterberg  (1901).  — The  Americans,  b;. 
Prof.  Hugo  Miinsterberg^  translated  by  Dr.  Holt  (1904),  an  important  worl 
in  the  style  of  Mr.  Bryce’s  ‘American  Commonwealth’.  — America  th< 
Land  of  Contrasts,  by  /.  F.  Muirhead  (3rd  edit. ; 1903). 


Maps.  The  leading  General  Maps  of  the  United  States  are  those  of  th 
General  Land  Office  and  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey  (Washington).  Th 
former  also  publishes  a series  of  maps  (10-18  M.  per  inch)  of  those  state 
in  which  public  lands  have  existed  (i.e.  all  except  those  on  the  Atlanti 
seaboard).  The  only  official  Detailed  Maps  of  any  part  of  the  Unitef 
of  the  Geological  Survey,  published  on  three  scale 
(1 : 62,500  or  about  1 M.  per  inch ; 1 : 125,000  or  2 M.  per  inch : and  1 : 250,00 
or  4M.  per  inch).  Nearly  1,000,000  sq.  M.  have  been  surveyed,  in  variou 
parts  of  the  country.  These  maps  can  be  obtained  only  from  the  Directo 
of  the  Geol.  Survey,  who  will  send  a list  on  application  (each  sheet  5 c.) 
ihe  U.  S.  Coast  Survey  is  producing  charts  of  the  coast,  which  may  b 
obtained  at  Washington  or  from  the  agencies  of  the  Survey  in  the  larg 
naaritime  cities.  Charts  of  the  Great  Lakes,  published  by  the  U.  S.  Corp 
of  Engineers,  may  be  purchased  from  the  Chief  of  Engineers  (Washington^ 
The  maps  of  the  Wheeler  and  Hayden  Surveys,  covering  extensive  region 
in  the  West  (4  M.  per  inch),  can  now  be  obtained  only  of  second- han 
booksellers.  Maps  of  the  whole  or  parts  of  their  states  have  been  publishe 
by  the  Geological  Surve^^s  of  New  Jersey,  New  Hampshire,  Pennsylvanii 
Kentucky,  Wisconsin,  Missouri,  Arkansas,  Texas,  Minnesota,  California,  et 
Messrs.  Rand  A:  McNally  publish  maps  of  all  the  States  in  the  Union. 


1.  From  Europe  to  New  York. 

An  overwhelming  proportion  of  European  visitors  to  the  United 
States  land  at  New  York,  and  the  following  brief  notes  on  the  chief 
oceanic  routes  to  that  port  may  prove  serviceable.  Lines  also  run 
from  European  ports  to  Boston  (see  p.  94),  Philadelphia  (p.  259), 
Baltimore  (p.  301) , etc.  Many  of  the  steamers  on  the  principal 
lines  are  now  equipped  with  wireless  telegraphic  apparatus,  allowing 
communication  either  with  shore  stations  or  with  passing  vessels. 
For  general  hints  as  to  the  voyage,  see  p.  xix. 

a.  From  Liverpool  to  New  York. 

This  is  the  route  followed  by  the  White  Star  and  Cunard  steamship 
companies.  The  fastest  steamers  take  about  6V2  days  from  port  to  port 
(comp.  p.  4),  the  slowest  8-9  days.  The  distance  varies  from  3(X)0  to  olOO 
nautical  miles  (ca.  3400-3550  Engl.  M.)  according  to  the  course  followed. 
ISTew  York  time  is  5 hrs.  behind  that  of  Liverpool. 

The  Cunarder  ‘Lucania'  holds  the  record  for  the  fastest  passages  from 
New  York  to  Queenstown  (5  days  8 hrs.  38  min.)  and  from  Queenstown 
to  New  York  (5  days  7 hrs.  23  min.).  The  ‘Cedric’  of  the  White  Star 
Line  is  the  largest  vessel  afloat  (TOO  ft.  long;  displacement  38,200  tons). 

TAverpool^  see  Baedeker  s Handbook  to  Great  Britain.  Passengers 
usually  board  the  Atlantic  steamers  from  the  Landing  Stage.  As 
we  pass  down  the  wide  estuary  of  the  Mersey,  we  see  the  crowded 
docks  of  Liverpool  to  the  right,  while  to  the  left  lies  New  Brighton, 
with  its  pier,  fort,  and  lighthouse.  The  mouth  of  the  river  is  marked 
by  a lightship,  which  we  reach  in  about  2 hrs.  after  starting.  Farther 
on,  in  clear  weather,  we  see  the  Welsh  coast  to  the  left  (S.),  where 
the  Little  and  Great  Orme^s  Heads  are  the  most  prominent  points, 
backed  by  the  distant  Snowdon  Group.  A little  later  we  skirt  the 
N.  coast  of  the  Isle  of  Anglesey,  then  turn  to  the  left,  and  steer  to  the 
S.W.  through  St.  Georges  Channel,  soon  losing  sight  of  land.  The 
Skerries,  with  a lighthouse,  lie  off  the  N.W.  point  of  Anglesey. 

The  first  part  of  the  Irish  coast  sighted  is  usually  Carnsore  Point, 
in  Wexford,  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  island,  ofi  which  lies  the  Tuskar 
Rock  Lighthouse.  In  about  12-15  hrs.  after  leaving  Liverpool  we 
enter  the  beautiful  inner  harbour  of  Queenstown  (about  240  knots 
from  Liverpool),  where  a halt  is  made  to  take  on  board  the  mails 
and  additional  passengers.  Sometimes  the  halt  is  long  enough  to 
allow  a visit  to  Queenstown,  beautifully  situated  on  Great  Island, 
or  even  to  (10  M.)  Cork,  which  may  be  reached  either  by  rail  (I/2  lir. ; 
seats  to  the  left)  or  by  the  river  Lea. 

On  leaving  Queenstown,  we  skirt  the  S.  coast  of  Ireland  for  some 
distance,  passing  several  bold  rocky  headlands.  The  last  piece  of 
European  land  seen  is  usually  the  Fastnet  Rock  (lighthouse),  off 

Baedekeb’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  ^ 


NEW  YORK  HARBOUR.  From  Europe 


2 Route  2. 


Cape  Clear  Island,  60  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Queenstown,  or,  in  clear 
weather,  Dursey  Island^  with  the  adjacent  Rail  Rock  Lighthouse. 

In  crossing  the  Atlantic  Ocean  fromE.  to  W.  the  steamer  descends 
through  about  11  degrees  of  latitude  (Queenstown  51®  50'  N.  lat., 
New  York  40®  42'  43").  The  course  varies  somewhat  according  to 
the  season  of  the  year  and  from  other  causes.  The  northerly  route 
(followed  from  July  to  Jan.)  takes  the  steamers  o\ei  the  Orand  Bank 
of  (30-80  fathoms),  while  the  southerly  route  followed 

for  the  rest  of  the  year  passes  to  the  S.  of  it.  Among  the  few  events 
which  cause  a break  in  the  similarity  of  day  to  day  are  the  occasional 
sight  of  an  Ice6cry  (an  objectof  great  beauty),  usually  seen  above  42®  N. 
lat.  and  between  45®  and  50®  E.  long.,  and  the  passing  of  other  vessels. 
Whales,  porpoises,  etc.,  are  also  seen  from  time  to  time.  The  days 
run’  of  the  steamer , given  in  nautical  miles  (7  ‘knots  = about 
8 Engl.  M.),  is  usually  posted  up  every  day  at  noon  in  the  com- 
panion-way. The  traveller  should  remember  that  his  watch  will 
gain  about  2/4  hr.  daily  in  going  W.  and  lose  the  same  amount  in 


ffoinff  E. 

The  following  list  of  the  colours  of  the  funnels  ( ‘snaoke-stacks')  of 
the  principal  steamship-lines  will  help  the  traveller  to  identify  the  steamers 
he  meets.  Allan  State,  red,  with  black  and  white  bands  and  black  top  ^ 
American,  black,  with  white  band;  Anchor,  black  (English  flag);  Atlantic 
Transport,  red,  with  black  top;  Compagnie  Gin^rale  Transatlantique,  red, 
with  black  top  (French  flag);  Cunard,  red,  with  black  top  and  three  narrow 
black  bands;  Hamburg,  buff  (express  steamers)  or  black  (German  flag); 
Holland-America,  black,  with  green  and  white  bands;  Italian,  black  with 
central  white  band ; North  German  Lloyd,  buff;  black,  with  white 

band;  Scandinavian,  black,  red,  and  black;  White  Star,  salmon,  with 
black  top. 

The  competition  among  the  pilots  of  New  York  was  formerly  so 
keen  that  the  pilot-boat  often  met  the  steamer  hundreds  of  miles 
from  land;  but  this  custom  has  been  superseded  by  the  use  of  steam 
pilot-boats.  The  pilot  dues  vary  with  the  draught  of  the  vessel,  but 
average  about  $230  (46  i.)  for  taking  the  vessel  in  and  out.  The  first 
American  land  sighted  is  usually  either  Fire  Island  (p.  74)  or  the  Aa- 
vesink  Highlands  (p.  277),  each  with  a lighthouse ; but  before  either 
of  these  we  see  the  Nantucket  Lightship  (192  M.  from  the  Sandy 
Hook  Lightship),  which  communicates  by  the  Marconi  wireless 
system  with  Siasconset  (comp.  p.  119)  and  reports  incoming  vessels. 
About  3 hrs.  after  sighting  land  we  approach  Sandy  Hook  Bar,  the 
Highlands  standing  out  boldly  to  the  left.  The  time  of  the  voyage  is 
reckoned  to  (or  from)  Sandy  Hook  Lightship.  The  chief  passage 
across  the  bar  is  afforded  by  the  Gedney  Channel,  which  is  marked 
by  eight  buoys  with  red  and  white  electric  lights  and  is  available 
for  large  vessels  at  all  states  of  the  tide.  Smaller  ships  may  use  the 
South  Channel.  We  leave  the  lighthouse  of  Sandy  Hook  (p.  277; 
white  light)  to  the  left,  enter  the  Lower  Bay  of  New  York  (p.  29), 
and  steer  to  the  N.  toward  the  Narrows,  or  entrance  to  New  York 
Bay  proper  (p.  28),  between  the  wooded  Staten  Island  (p.  66)  on  the 
left  and  Long  Island  (p.  73)  to  the  right.  On  the  former  are  Fort 


ot  New  York.  NEW  YORK  HARBOUR. 


i.  Route,  3 


Wadsworth,  Fort  Tompkins,  and  a lighthouse ; on  the  latter  lies  Fort 
Hamilton,  while  on  a rocky  island  in  the  channel  is  Fort  Lafayette, 
where  many  Southern  prisoners  were  confined  during  the  Civil  War. 
About  3 M.  farther  up  is  the  Upper  Quarantine  Station  (at  Clifton'), 
off  which  all  vessels  anchor  until  they  have  been  cleared  by  the  officer 
of  the  Board  of  Health.  The  custom-house  officers  also  usually  come 
on  hoard  here  (p.  xix).  Cases  of  contagious  diseases  are  taken  to 
Swinburne' s Island,  in  the  Lower  Bay,  off  South  Beach  (p.  67), 
while  healthy  persons  from  infected  ships  are  confined  on  Hoffmann's 
Island,  1 M.  farther  to  the  N.  About  halfway  between  the  Quarantine 
Station  and  New  York,  to  the  left,  is  Bobbins  Reef,  with  a light- 
house. 

As  we  advance  up  the  beautiful  *New  York  Harbour  (p.  28), 
the  city  of  Brooklyn  (p.  69)  lies  to  the  right  and  Jersey  City  (p.  67) 
to  the  left,  while  New  York  lies  straight  ahead.  Liberty  or  Bedloe's 
Island,  with  the  colossal  statue  of  Liberty  enlightening  the  World,  lies 
nearly  in  mid-channel,  while  Governor  s Island  lies  to  the  right, 
close  inshore.  To  the  left,  beyond  Liberty  Island,  is  the  small  Ellis 
Island,  where  emigrants  now  land  and  are  taken  care  of  until  they 
can  he  forwarded  to  their  final  destinations  (comp.  p.  30).  The 
large  buildings  have  been  re-erected  since  a fire  in  1897.  The 
wonderful  * Brooklyn  Bridge  (p.  36),  spanning  the  East  River  (p.  29) 
and  connecting  New  York  with  Brooklyn,  is  seen  to  the  right. 

The  *Statue  of  Liberty,  on  Liberty  or  Bedloe’s  Island,  presented  to 
the  United  States  by  the  French  Republic,  in  commemoration  of  the 
100th  anniversary  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  was  dUigned  by 
Auguste  Bartholdi  and  erected  in  1886.  It  is  151  ft.  high  (to  the  top  of  the 
torch),  is  made  of  copper  and  iron,  and  weighs  225  tons.  The  granite  pedestal 
on  which  it  stands,  designed  by  R.  M.  Hunt,  is  155  ft.  high  and  was  con- 
tributed by  citizens  of  the  United  States.  A stairway  ascends  inside  the 
figure  to  the  head,  which  can  accommodate  40  persons  and  commands 
a magnificent  *View  of  New  York  and  its  vicinity  (nearly  as  good  from  the 
first  balcony).  At  night  the  torch  is  lit  by  electricity.  Near  the  base  of 
the  statue  is  a tablet  with  an  appropriate  sonnet  by  Miss  Emma  Lazarus. 
Steamers  run  at  frequent  intervals  to  Liberty  Island  from  the  Battery  (see 
p.  30;  return-fare  25  c.). 

As  the  steamer  approaches  her  dock,  in  the  North  (Hudson)  River, 
the  conspicuous  features  in  New  York  include  the  Produce  Exchange 
(p.  31),  with  its  square  Florentine  tower;  the  Whitehall,  Washington, 
and  Bowling  Green  Buildings  (pp.  31,  32),  and  many  ‘sky-scrapers’ 
in  Broadway  Qp,  31),  almost  hiding  the  spire  of  Trinity  Church  (p.  33) ; 
the  St,  Paul  (p.  34)  and  Park  Row  Buildings  (p.  35);  and  the 
gilded  dome  of  the  World  Building  (p.  35).  Passengers  are  landed 
directly  on  the  wharf,  attend  to  the  custom-house  examination  of 
their  baggage  (comp.  p.  xix),  and  then  drive  to  their  destination, 
either  taking  their  trunks  with  them  or  entrusting  them  to  one  of 
the  numerous  transfer  - agents  or  express  - agents  who  meet  the 
steamer  (comp.  p.  xxii). 

New  York,  see  R.  2. 


4 Route  1, 


ENGLISH  CHANNEL. 


From  Europe 


b.  From  Soutbampton  to  New  York  vi§.  Cberbourg. 

This  is  the  route  followed  by  the  American  Line  (International  Mer- 
cantile Marine  Co.),  sailing  under  the  American  flag.  The  distance  from 
Southampton  to  New  York  is  3075  knots,  and  the  usual  durahon  of  the 
voyao-e  is  6V2-7V2  days.  Passengers  are  conveyed  by  special  Irain  (lU  a.m. 
on  Sat.)  from  London  to  Southampton  (is/i  hr.),  where  they  embark  at  the 
new  Empress  Dock  at  noon.  The  steamers  Ihen  proceed  to  Cherbourg,  to 
meet  passengers  from  Paris  (special  train  at  9.20  a.m.),  and  leave  this  port 
at  5 p.m.  Southampton  time  is  5 hrs.  ahead  of  that  of  New  York. 

Southampton,  see  Baedeker^ s Great  Britain.  The  steamer  descends 
Southampton  Water  and  passes  through  the  Solent,  affording  a good 
view  of  Hurst  Castle  to  the  right  and  of  the  Needles  to  the  left  (light- 
house ; red  flashing  light).  The  time  of  the  voyage  is  reckoned  from 
this  point.  To  the  right  lies  St.  Albans  Head.  The  steamer  then 
crosses  to  Cherbourg  (see  p.  5)  and  after  leaving  that  port  proceeds 
to  the  W.  through  the  English  Channel.  Start  Point  (white  flashing 
light)  and  Eddystone  Lighthouse  (one  fixed  and  one  flashing  light)  in 
Plymouth  Bay  are  seen  to  the  right.  The  last  point  seen  of  the 
English  mainland  is  Lizard  Head,  in  Cornwall,  and  the  last  Euro- 
pean land  sighted  is  the  Scilly  Isles  (lighthouse),  about  30  M.  to  the 
S.W.  of  the  Land’s  End.  — The  rest  of  the  voyage  is  similar  to  that 
described  in  R.  la. 


c.  From  Hamburg  to  New  York. 

Tli%  Express  Steamers  of  tbe  Hamburg -American  Line  ply  to  New 
York  via  Dover  and  Cherbourg  (8V2-8  days^  from  Dover  to  Cherbourg, 
170  M.  in  9-10  hrs. ; from  Cherbourg  to  New  York,  3027  M.,  in  5V2-7  days), 
while ’the  boats  of  the  Begulak  Service  run  to  New  York  (3505  knots, 
in  11  days)  via  Boulogne-sur-Mer  and  Dover.  The  ‘Deutschland’  of  this  line 
holds  the  record  for  the  quickest  passages  from  New  York  to  Plymouth  (5 
days  7 hrs.  38  min.)  and  from  Cherbourg  to  New  York  (5  days  11  hrs. 
54  min.).  . , ... 

The  steamers  start  from  Cuxhaven  (Iraiding-stage,  with  waiting-rooms 
and  restaurant),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Elbe,  58  M.  from  Hamburg,  to  which 
passengers  are  forwarded  by  special  train  (2  hrs.^  see  Baedelcer's  Handbook 
to  Northern  Germany).  At  Dover  the  steamers  touch  at  the  new  Prince  of 
Wales  Pier,  but  at  Boulogne  and  Cherbourg  passengers  embark  by  tenders. 
Passengers  are  carried  between  London  and  Dover  and  between  Paris  and 
Cherbourg  or  Boulogne  free  of  charge,  by  special  trains.  New  York  time 
is  5 hrs.  behind  that  of  Dover  and  6 hrs.  behind  that  of  Hamburg. 

Steamers  of  the  Hamburg-American  Line  from  Genoa  to  New  York, 
s:e  p.  7. 

Leaving  Cuxhaven,  the  steamer  steers  to  the  N.W.,  passing  the 
four  Elbe  Lightships  and  affording  a distant  view  of  the  red  rocks  of 
Heligoland  to  the  right.  Yaiious  other  German,  Dutch,  and  Belgian 
lights  are  visible.  The  first  English  lights  are  those  of  the  Galloper 
Lightship  and  the  Goodwin  Sands,  soon  alter  sighting  which  we  call 
at  Dover  to  receive  the  British  mails  and  passengers  (see  Baedekers 
Great  Brit-ain).  On  quitting  Dover  the  express  steamer  steers 
towards  the  S.W.  through  the  Straits  of  Dover  and  is  for  a time  out 
of  sight  of  land.  Cape  La  Hogue  is  the  first  point  of  the  French  coast 


to  New  TorJc. 


ANTWERP. 


1.  Route.  5 


that  becomes  visible.  At  Cherbourg  (see  Baedeker  s Northern  France^ 
we  take  on  passengers  from  Paris  and  the  South,  and  also  the  French, 
Continental , and  Eastern  mails.  The  boats  of  the  regular  service 
embark  their  Paris  passengers  at  Boulogne.  The  remainder  of  the 
route  to  New  York  is  similar  to  that  of  R.  Ih.  The  docks  of  the  Ham- 
hurg-American  Line  are  at  Hoboken  (p.  67),  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
North  River.,  whence  passengers  are  conveyed  to  New  York  by  large 
ferry-steamers. 


d.  From  Bremen  to  New  York. 

The  Express  Steamers  of  the  I^orth  German  Lloyd  (Norddeutscher  Lloyd) 
run  to  New  York  (3560  knots,  in  7 days)  via  Southampton  and  Cherbourg,  hut 
others  run  to  New  York  direct.  The  steamers  start  from  (40  M.)  Bremen- 
haven, at  the  mouth  of  the  Weser,  to  which  passengers  are  forwarded  by 
special  train.  See  Baedeker"' s Northern  Germany.  The  ‘Kaiser  Wilhelm 
der  Zweite’,  ‘Kronprinz  Wilhelm’,  and  ‘Kaiser  Wilhelm  der  Grosse’  are 
the  finest  vessels  of  this  company. 

Steamers  of  the  North  German  Lloyd  from  Genoa  to  New  York,  see  p.  7. 

On  issuing  from  the  mouth  of  the  Weser,  the  steamer  steers  to  the 
N.W.,  with  the  Jahdebusen  opening  to  the  left.  A little  farther  on  it 
passes  the  East  Frisian  Islands.  The  rest  of  the  voyage  is  similar  to  that 
described  in  R.  Ic.  Southampton  is  about  460  M.  from  Bremerhaven. 


e.  From  Havre  to  New  York. 

This  route  is  followed  by  the  French  steamers  of  the  Compagnie  G4n&- 
rale  Transatlantique.  The  distance  is  3095  knots  and  the  average  time 
6-7  days.  New  York  time  is  5 hrs.  10  min.  behind  that  of  Havre. 

Havre,  see  Baedeker  s Hand.book  to  Northern  France.  The  steamer 
steers  out  into  the  English  Channel,  affording  distant  views  of  Cape 
La  Hague  and  the  Channel  Islands  to  the  left,  and  of  the  Scilly  Is- 
lands to  the  right.  The  farther  course  of  the  voyage  resembles  that 
of  the  steamers  of  the  German  and  Ameri  can  lines,  as  above  described. 


f.  From  Antwerp  to  New  York. 

This  is  the  route  of  the  Red  Star  Line  (3340-3410  knots,  in  8 days).  New 
York  time  is  5 hrs.  behind  that  of  Antwerp. 

Antwerp,  see  Baedekers  Handbook  to  Holland  and  Belgium.  The 
steamer  descends  the  West  Schelde,  with  the  Dutch  province  of  Zea- 
land on  either  side,  passes  (40  M.)  Flushing,  on  the  island  ofWalche- 
rm (right),  and  enters  Ck^NorthSea.  In  very  clear  weather  the  towers 
of  Bruges  and  Ostendm^y  sometimes  he  distinguished  to  the  left  farther 
on.  Several  lightships  are  passed,  and  the  first  English  land  sighted 
is  the  high  chalk  cliffs  of  the  South  Foreland  (p.  6),  Their  sub- 
sequent course  is  similar  to  that  of  the  German,  French,  and 
American  Line  steamers  (see  above). 


6 Route  1 . 


GLASGOW. 


g.  From  Eotterdam  to  New  York. 

This  is  the  route  of  the  Holland- America  Line,  sailing  under  the  Dutch 
nag  (3400  M.,  in  9V4-10  days).  The  steamers  call  at  Boulogne-sur-Mer. 

Rotterdam,  see  Baedekers  Belgium  and  Holland.  The  steamers 
descend  the  Maas  or  Meuse  and  the  Meuwe  Waterweg  (canal), 
passing  the  Hoek  van  Holland  at  its  mouth,  and  enter  the  North 
Sea.  — The  subsequent  course  is  similar  to  that  described  in  B.  1 f. 

h.  From  London  to  New  York. 

This  is  the  route  of  the  Atlantic  Transport  Line  (3280  knots, ^ in  81/2- 
10  days).  The  steamers  start  at  Tilbury  Docks,  reached  Dy  special  tram 
(1/2  hr.)  from  St.  Pancras  Station  or  from  Fenchurch  Street  Station.  New 
York  time  is  5 hrs.  behind  that  of  London. 

Tilbury,  see  Baedeker's  Handbook  to  London.  The  steamers 
descend  the  estuary  of  the  Thames,  passing  between  Southend 
Shoeburyness  on  the  left  and  Sheerness  and  Queenboro  on  the  right. 
Rounding  the  North  Foreland  (light),  they  steer  to  the  S.,  passing 
Deal,  the  South  Foreland  (two  fixed  electric  lights),  and  Dover.  The 
rest  of  the  voyage  is  similar  to  that  described  in  R.  1 c. 

i.  From  Glasgow  to  New  York. 

This  is  the  route  of  the  Anchor  Line  and  the  Allan  State  Line  (2900  knots, 
in  9-10  days:  from  Moville,  2780 knots,  in  8-9  days).  Passengers  may  join  the 
steamer  at  Glasgow,  Greenock,  or  Moville.  The  difference  of  time  between 
Glasgow  and  ISIew  York  is  5 hrs. 

Glasgow  and  the  beautiful  yoyage  down  the  Firth  of  Clyde  are 
described  in  Baedekers  Handbook  to  Great  Britain.  Among  the 
chief  points  passed  are  Dumbarton  (r.),  Greenock  (!.'),  GourockiJ.), 
Toward  Point  (1.),  the  Isle  of  Bute  (r.),  the  Cumbrae  Islands  (1.), 
the  Isle  of  Arran  (r.),  and  Ayr  (1.).  On  leaving  the  estuary  of  the 
river  the  steamer  rounds  the  Mull  ofCantyre  (right)  and  proceeds  to 
the  W along  the  N.  coast  of  Ireland,  passing  the  island  of  Rathlin  and 
affording  a distant  view,  to  the  left,  of  the  Gianfs  Causeway.  It  then 
ascends  Lough  Foyle  to  Moville,  the  port  of  Londonderry,  where  mail 
and  extra-passengers  are  taken  on  board.  On  issuing  from  Lough 
Foyle  the  steamer  steers  at  first  to  the  W . and  then,  after  passing  Malm 
Head,  the  northernmost  point  of  Ireland,  to  the  S.W.  The  last  part 
of  Ireland  seen  is  usually  Tory  Island  (lighthouse)  or  the  island  of 
Arranmore,  off  the  coast  of  Donegal.  The  general  course  followed 
across  the  Atlantic  by  the  Glasgow  steamers  is  considerably  to  the 
of  that  of  the  Liverpool  boats,  not  joining  the  latter  till  the  hanks 
of  Newfoundland  (p.  2),  with  their  fogs  and  icebergs. 

k.  From  Copenhagen,  Christiania,  and  Christiansandto  New  York. 

The  steamers  of  the  Scandinavian-American  /^om  Copenhagen 

to  New  York  (3705  knots)  in  about  11  days,  calling  at  (215  knots)  Christiania 
one  day  and  at  (165  knots)  Christiansand  two  days  after  starting,  hew  iotk 
time  is  51/2  hrs.  behind  that  of  Copenhagen  and  Christiania. 


152»ast. 


w&.^er 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Routt.  7 

Copenhagen,  see  Baedeker's  Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark,  The 
steamer  steers  up  the  Cattegat,  with  Denmark  on  the  left  and 
Sweden  on  the  right.  At  Christiania  Baedeker's  Norway)^  at  the 
head  of  the  pictures(jue  Christiania  Fjord,  it  embarks  passengers 
from  Stockholm,  Gothenburg,  etc.  It  then  retraces  its  course  through 
the  fjord  and  follows  the  coast  of  Norway  to  Christiansand,  where 
it  is  joined  by  passengers  from  Bergen.  Leaving  Christiansand,  the 
steamer  steers  to  the  W.,  round  the  N.  coast  of  Scotland,  passing 
through  the  Pentland  Firth  and  within  sight  of  the  Orkney  Islands. 
Farther  on  it  turns  to  the  S.W.  and  eventually  joins  the  route  de- 
scribed in  R.  1 a,  off  the  Banks  of  Newfoundland. 


1.  From  Genoa  and  Naples  to  New  York. 

The  Italian  Royal  Mail  Steamship  Co.  ( Navigazione  Generate  Italiana) 
maintains,  in  conjunction  with  the  steamers  of  La  Veloce  {Navigazione 
Italiana  a Vapore) , a weekly  service  on  this  route,  while  steamers  of 
the  No7'th  German  Lloyd  and  of  the  Hamiburg-American  Line  ply  every  fort- 
night (weekly  during  the  height  of  the  season).  The  distance  from  Genoa 
to  New  York  is  4500  knots  (id  days),  from  Naples  to  New  York  4150 
knots  (12  days).  New  York  time  is  6 hrs.  behind  that  of  Italy. 

For  the  Italian  ports,  see  Baedeker  s Italy.  Leaving  Genoa,  the 
steamers  steer  to  the  S.,  along  the  coast  of  Italy,  to  Naples.  They 
then  turn  towards  the  W.,  pass  to  the  S.  of  Sardinia,  and  proceed 
through  the  Mediterranean  Sea  to  Gibraltar.  Beyond  the  straits, 
their  course  across  the  Atlantic  is  slightly  to  the  N.  of  W. 


2,  New  York. 

For  the  Lower  Town,  comp.  Flan,  p.  30. 

Arrival.  Railway  Stations.  Steamers. 

Arrival.  Strangers  arriving  in  New  York  by  sea  will  find  an  explana- 
tion of  the  custom-house  formalities  at  p.  xix.  All  the  main  steamship 
landings  are  near  tramway-lines  (p.  14),  and  numerous  hacks  and  cabs 
are  always  in  waiting  (bargaining  advisable  ^ fare  to  hotel  for  1-2  pers., 
included,  at  least  $ 3).  A few  hotels  send  carriages  to  meet  the 
European  steamers.  Transfer  Agents  (see  pp.  xxii,  18)  are  also  on  hand 
to  receive  trunks  and  forward  them  to  any  address  (25-50  c. : not  always 
delivered  the  same  day).  Travellers  landing  on  the  New  Jersey  (or  W.) 
side  cross  to  New  York  by  ferry,  and  will  generally  find  it  convenient  to 
do  so  in  cabs.  Those  coming  by  railway  from  the  S.  and  W.  cross  the 
river  by  ferries  in  connection  with  the  railways,  and  claim  their  baggage 
at  the  ferry-house  in  New  York  (see  p.  8).  Travellers  from  Canada  and 
the  North,  or  from  the  West  by  the  N.  Y.  C.  R.  R.  route,  arrive  at  the 
Grand  Central  Station  (see  below  and  p.48),  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and 
may  use  the  Elevated  Railway  (see  p.  12),  the  Subway  (p.  14),  or  the 
surface-cars  (p.  14) ’to  reach  their  city  destination.  Cab-fares,  see  p.  16. 

Stations  (Depots).  The  Grand  Central  Station  (p.  48;  P1.G,3), 
E.  42nd  St.,  between  Lexington  and  Vanderbilt  Avenues,  is,  at  present,  the 
only  terminal  station  in  New  York  proper.  It  is  a large  and  well-arranged 
building,  with  a restaurant  and  the  other  usual  appointments  of  a modern 
American  railway-station,  and  is  used  by  the  trains  of  the  New  York  Central 
& Hudson  River  Railroad  (for  Canada  and  the  N.,  Chicago  and  the  W.,  etc.), 
and  the  New  York,  New  Haven,  & Hartford  Railroad  (for  Boston  and  New 
England,  etc.).  — Some  local  trains  of  the  New  York  Central  R.  R.,  for 
stations  up  to  Spuyten  Buy vil  (p.  191),  start  from  the  station  at  Tenth  Ave. 


8 Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Steamboats. 


and  W.  30tli  St.,  while  others  (Pntnam  Division),  for  Van  Cortlandt,  Yon- 
kers, etc.,  start  at  8th  Ave.  and  155th  St.  (p.  13). 

The  other  great  railway  systems  have  their  depots  on  the  New  Jersey 
side  of  the  North  River  and  convey  passengers  to  and  from  '^them  by  large 
ferry-boats.  The  ferry-houses,  however,  furnish  the  same  opportunities  for 
the  purchase  of  tickets,  checking  baggage,  etc.,  as  the  railway-stations,  and 
the  times  of  departure  and  arrival  of  trains  by  these  lines  are  given  with 
reference  to  the  New  York  side  of  the  river.  — Pennsylvania  Railroad  Sta- 
^io7J.,(Pl.*A,  B,  1),  Railroad  Ave.,  Jersey  City,  reached  by  ferries  from  W. 
23rd  St.,  Desbrosses  St.,  and  Cortlandt  St.,  used  by  trains  of  the  Penn- 
sylvania Railroad  (for  all  points  in  the  West  and  South),  and  also  by 
the  Lehigh  Valley,  the  New  York,  Susquehanna  & Western,  and  the 
Long  Branch  Railroads.  [A  tunnel  is  now  being  constructed  under  the 
N.  River  to  carry  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  to  a central  station  in  New 
York  City  (PI.  F,  G,  2),  but  this  will  not  be  open  before  1905  or  1906. 
This  tunnel  is  part  of  a scheme  involving  other  tunnels  under  Manhattan 
Island  and  the'E.  River  affording  direct  communication  betw^een  Long 
Island  and  the  South.]  — Erie  Railroad  Station^  Pavonia  Ave.,  Jersey 
City,  reached  by  ferries  from  Chambers  St.  andW.  23rd  St.,  used  by  the 
Erie  Railroad  and  its  various  branches.  — West  Shore  Station^  Weehawken, 
reached  by  ferries  from  Franklin  St.  and  W.  42nd  St.,  used  by  the  West 
Shore  Railroad  (for  the  same  districts  as  the  N.  Y.  Central  Railroad)  and 
the  New  York,  Ontario,  <fe  Western  Railroad.  — Delaware^Lackawanna.^  and 
Western  Station^  Hoboken,  reached  by  ferries  from  Christopher  St.  and 
Barclay  St.,  used  by  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna,  & Western  Railroad  (for 
New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  and  Western  New  York).  — Central  Railroad  of 
New  Jersey  Depot  (PI.  A,  1),  Communipaw,  reached  by  ferries  from  Liberty 
St.  and  Whitehall  St.,  used  also  by  the  Baltimore  <fe  Ohio,  the  Long  Branch, 
and  the  Philadelphia  & Reading  Railroads. 

For  Brooklyn  stations,  see  p.  69;  for  Long  Island  stations,  see  p.  73. 

Steamers.  1.  Ocean  Steamships.  The  following  is  a list  of  the  chief 
Passenger  Steamship  Companies  between  New  Y’^ork  and  Europe,  with 
their  docks,  city-offices,  and  days  of  sailing  (comp.  R.  1 and  p.  xviii).  White 
Star  Line^  Pier  48,  at  foot  of  W.  11th  St.  (PL  D,  1;  office,  9 Broadway; 
Wed.  <fe  Frid.);  American  Line  (International  Mercantile  Marine  Co.)^  Pier 
14,  foot  of  Fulton  St.  (PI.  B,  2;  office,  73  Broadway;  Sat.);  Canard  Line., 
Piers  51  & 52,  North  River,  foot  of  Jane  St.  (PI.  D,  1;  office,  29  Broadway; 
Sat.  & Tues.);  Holland- America  Line.,  foot  of  5th  St.,  Hoboken  (PL  D,  1; 
office,  39  Broadway;  to  Boulogne  and  Rotterdam  weekly);  Anchor  Line, 
Dock  64,  foot  of  W.  24th  St.  (PI.  F,  1;  office,  17  Broadway;  Sat.);  Allan 
State  Line,  pier  at  the  foot  of  W.  34th  St.»(office,  53  Broadway;  Thurs.); 
Gompagnie  G^nirale  Transatlantique,  Dock  42,  Morton  St.  (PL  D,  1 ; office, 
32  Broadway;  Thurs.);  North  German  Lloyd,  foot  of  2nd,  3rd,  and  4th  Sts., 
Hoboken  (PL  D,  1;  office,  5 Broadway;  Tues.  & Thurs. ; to  Gibraltar,  Genoa, 
and  Naples  weekly);  Hamburg- American  Line,  foot  of  Newark  St.  and 
1st  St.,  Hoboken  (PL  D,  1;  office,  37  Broadway;  Sat.,  Thurs.,  & Tues.; 
to  Genoa  and  Naples  weekly);  Py.ed  Star  Line  ( International  Mercantile  Marine 
Co.),  Pier  14,  foot  of  Fulton  St.  (PL  B,  2;  office,  73  Broadway;  Sat.) ; Atlantic 
Transport,  Piers  39  & 40,  foot  of  W.  Houston  and  Clarkson  Sts.  (PI.  D,l; 
office,  1 Broadway;  Sat.);  Italian  Royal  Mail  Line,  for  Genoa  and  Naples, 
Pier  74,  foot  of  W.  34th  St.  (PL  G,  1;  office,  11  Broadway;  Tues.;  also 
fortnightly  to  the  W.  Indies);  Scandinavian-American  Line,  foot  of  17th  St., 
Hoboken  (office,  7 Broadway ; about  once  weekly.  Wed.  or  Sat.).  — Other 
ocean-going  steamships  ply  to  the  ports  of  S.  and  Central  America,  the  West 
Indies,  Mexico,  Cuba,  Porto  Rico,  Florida,  New  Orleans,  Richmond,  and 
other  ports  of  the  Southern  States,  the  Mediterranean  ports,  Boston,  Phila- 
delphia, Portland  (Maine),  Newfoundland,  etc.  — The  times  of  departure 
and  other  information  are  advertised  in  the  daily  papers. 

2.  Rivek,  Sound,  and  Harbour  Steamers.  The  following  are  a few 
of  the  principal  points  on  the  Hudson,  Long  Island  Sound,  and  N.  Y. 
Harbour,  reached  by  steamer  from  New  York.  For  full  information  on 
these  and  other  lines,  reference  must  be  made  to  current  time-tables  and 


Hotels, 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  9 


daily  papers.  The  larger  American  river  steamboats  are  very  finely  fitted 
up,  and  the  traveller  should  not  omit  an  inspection  of  one  of  the  Fall 
River  or  Hudson  River  boats,  even  if  he  does  not  travel  by  them.  They 
are  very  unh'ke  European  boats,  rising  in  house-like  tiers  higli  above 
the  water  and  propelled  by  paddle-wheels  and  (often)  ‘walking-beam’ 
engines,  the  long  shafts  of  which  protrude  above  the  middle  of  the  deck 
The  smoke-stacks’  or  funnels  are  also  unlike  the  European  pattern.  There 
restaurants  on  board,  and  a comfortable  private  state-room 
may  be  obtained  for  a small  addition  to  the  regular  fare  (usually 
^ 1-2  per  night  ^ large  rooms  with  brass  bedsteads  $5).  The  Hudson  River 
boats  cease  running  in  winter,  but  most  of  the  Sound  boats  ply  throughout 
the  year.  — To  Albany  (p.  196),  either  by  the  Hudson  River  Day  Line 
or  the  People’s  Line  (fares,  etc.,  see  p.  186).  — To  Caiskill  (p.  203)  and 
Hudson  (p.  19c)),  either  by  the  Hudson  River  Day  Line  (see  above*  $1V2‘ 
63/4  hrs.)  or  by  the  Catskill  Evening  Line  from  the  foot  of  Christopher  St’ 
($ly  night-boat,  11  hrs.).  — To  Rondout  (p.  195),  by  the  Day  Line  (see 
above)  or  by  the  ‘Mary  Powell’  (Desbrosses  St.i  $ 1).  — To  Troy  (p.  185) 
round  trip  $21/2;  12  hrs.).  — To  West  Point 
(p.  194),  by  the  Day  Line  (see  above  ^ 75  c.  ^ 31/4  hrs.)  or  by  the  ‘Mary  Powell’ 
gee  above i same  fare;  3 hrs.).  — To  Boston  (p.  94),  by  the  Fall  River, 
Norwich,  Joy,  or  Stonington  line  (fare  $ 3-4  acc.  to  the  season 

w^oo  Inland  rom 

\\  . 2ind.St.  and  Pier  1,  hourly  or  oftener  in  summer  (fare  15  c.  1 50  min.). 
— To  Long  Branch  (p.  277),  from  W.  13th  St.  and  the  Battery,  thrice  daily 
in  summer  (35  c.)  —'  To  Providence,  Newport,  Fall  River,  Stonington,  and 
New  London,  see  R.  4d  (p.  87).  — Ferries,  see  p.  17. 

Hotels,  Restaurants,  etc. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xxvi).  The  distinction  between  the  four  geographical 
groups  in  which  the  hotels  of  New  York  are  here  distributed  is  a some- 
what arbitrary  one,  but  it  will  perhaps  give  the  traveller  some  help  in 
selecting  his  quarters.  As  a general  rule  those  who  wish  to  be  near  the 
business-districts  should  select  a ‘Down  Town’  hotel,  or  at  any  rate  one 

ordinary  tourist  will  probably  find 
himself  best  suited  in  or  to  the  N.  of  Madison  Square.  For  the  difference 
between  the  American’  and  ‘European’  plans,  see  p.  xxvii. 

Down  Town  (from  the  Battery  to  Canal  St.).  On  the  European  Plan : 
Astok  House  (PI.  a;  B,  3),  225  Broadway,  opposite  the  Post  Office,  an  old 
and  popular  house,  much  frequented  by  business-men,  R.  from  Sli/?* 
Cosmopolitan  (PJ.  b;  B,  2),  127  Chambers  St.,  R.  from  $1^  Smith  & 
McNell  s,  195  Washington  St.  (PI.  B,  2),  R.  from  50  c. 

Between  Canal  St.  and  IMh  St.  1.  European  Plan:  Lafayette-Bkevoort 
House  (PI.  f ; E,  3),  at  the  corner  of  Fifth  Ave.  and  Clinton  Place,  R.  from 

Broadway  and  11th  St.,  good  cuisine, 
f/’  Bafayette  (PI.  1,  E3;  French),  17  University  Place 

cor.  9th  St.,  with  excellent  cuisine,  R.  from  31;  Albert  (PI.  m:  E,  3) 
Iq  5 E.  from  $ 1 ; GtRiFFOU  (PI.  n ; E,  3) 

19  W.  8th  St.,  a small  French  house,  R.  from  $1.-2.  American  and 
European  : -Broadway  Central  (PI.  o ; D,  3),  667-677  Broadway  (1000  beds), 
from  $ 21/2,  R.  from  $ 1 ; Hotel  Muro  (PI.  q ; E,  2),  116  W.  14th  St.  (Spanish). 

From  ^4:th  St,  to  26th  St.  (incl.  Union  Sg.  and  Madison  Sq.).  — 1.  Euro- 
pean Plan:  Hoffman  House  (PI.  f,  F,  3),  Madison  Sq.,  cor.  of  25th  St., 
much  frequented  by  Democratic  politicians,  R.  from  $2:  Albemarle 
(PI.  v;  F,  3),  cor.  Broadway  and  24th  St.,  Madison  Sq.,  R.  $ 2,  good  cuisine; 
LyERETT  Ho.  (PI.  w;  E,  3),  N.  side  of  Union  Sq.,  cor.  4th  Ave.  & 17th  St., 
?•  ^ K®/^sington  (PI.  zz;  E,  3),  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  15th  St.,  R. 

from  $ 11/2;  New  Amsterdam,  Fourth  Ave.,  cor.  21st  St.,  R.  from  $ 1; 
Margaret  Louisa  Home  (PI.  M;  E,  3),  E.  16th  St.,  practically  a moderate- 
priced  hotel  for  business  women  (see  p.43;  previous  application  advisable). 
TIT  j.'  and  European  Plan:  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel  (PI.  r;  F,  3) 

ladgon  Sq.,  at  the  corner  of  23rd  St.,  long  one  of  the  most  noted  hotels 
in  blew  York,  with  accommodation  for  1000  guests,  frequented  by  officials 


10  Route  2, 


NEW  YORK. 


Hotels, 


and  HenTiblican  politicians,  from  $ 5 per  day,  B.  from  $2;  Westminster 
fPl  s*  E 3)  Irving  Place,  cor.  16tli  St.,  from  $31/2,  B.  from  $1;  Union 
Uuabe  hotel  (PI.  z,  E,  3),  16  Union  Sq  , from  $ 3,  B.  /rom  ; Ashland 
(Ph  ee^F,  3),  315  Fourth  Ave.,  cor.  24th  St.,  commercial,  S 272-0,  B.  1. 

Above  Madison  Square.  1.  European  Plan  : ■"mLOORF- Astoria  (PL  aa; 

F G 3),  a huge  double  building  at  the  cor.  of  Fifth  Ave.  and  34th  bt., 
with’ large  and  sumptuously  decorated  ball,  dining,  concert,  and  other 
public  rooms,  a sun-parlour  on  the  roof,  etc.  (comp.  p.  ^),  B.  from  ^2/2^ 
^Holland  House  (PI.  kk;  F,  3),  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  30th  St.,  another  mag- 
nificent hotel,  B.  from  $2;  *St.  Begis  (PL  ^d:  H,  3),  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  of 
55th  St.,  a sumptuously  equipped  house,  with  f ^ ^ 

of  2000  vols.,  R.  with  bath  from  $ 5,  Hotel  Astor  (PL  bb;  G,  2)  Lon^we 
Square  (p.  4i),  huge  new  hotels  to  be  opened  in  1904;  Imperial  (PL  mm, 
F:3),  Broadway,  cor.  32nd  St.,  a large  and  handsomely  decorated  house, 
R.  from  $2;  Majestic  (PL  p,  K2;  roof-garden),  U^gJ^h  Av^cor.  72nd  St., 
facing  Central  Park,  R.  from  $ 2V2;  Empire  (PL  u;I,  2),  cor.  W.  63rd  St.  and 
Broadway  (Boulevard),  near  Central  Park,  well  spoken  of,  R.  Iroin  $ IV2; 
Earlington  (PL  X ; F,  3),  49  W.  27th  St.,  R.  from  $ IV2 ; Victoria  (PL  If ; F,  o), 
Fifth  Ave. , cor.  27th  St. . R.  $ 2 ; Marie  Antoinette  (PL  c ; 1, 2),  Broadway , cor 
66th  St.;  Belleclaire  (PL  ii;  K,  1),  Broadway,  cor.  <7thSt.,  R.  $2;  Herald 
Square  (PL  i;  F,  2),  Broadway,  cor.  34lh  St.,  R.  $ JVzi 
Woodward,  S.E.  cor.  of  Broadway  <fe  55th  St.,  R.  $2,  with  bath  S 2/2-3; 
Algonquin,  42nd  St.,  similar  charges  well  spoken  of^  ^^avarre  (PL  g|; 
G,  2),  Seventh  Ave.,  cor.  38th  St,  R.  $ IV2;  Carnegie  H^l  (PL  qq,  L,^, 
Madison  Ave.,  cor.  E.  92nd  St,  R.  from  $2;  Gerard  (PL 
44th  St,  R.  from  $1,  suite  from  $ 3;  Buckingham  (PL  rr;  H,  3),  a large 
family  hotel.  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  50th  St.,  R.  froin  $ 2;  Normandie  (PI-  nn; 
p GinsFT  (PI  00*  F 3),  Vendome  (Pl.D;  G,  2),  Broadway,  cor.  38tb, 
§)\hNnd  4fstTts."\.  fro4  $172  or  $2;  RcJland  ’56  E.  59th  St.,  small, 
R from  $1,  with  bath  $172;  Grand  (PL  pp;  F,  3),  Cadillac  (PL  vv;  G,  2), 
Knickerbocker  (PL  tt;  G,  ^),  MUtropole  (PL  uu ; G,  2),  Broadway  cor. 
31st,  43rd,  42nd,  and  41st  Sts.,  R.  from  $ 1 or  172;  Manhattan  (PL  e ; G,  3), 
a 16-story  building  in  Madison  Ave.,  cor.  42nd  St  , near  Grand 
Depot,  R.  from  $2;  Grand  Union  (PI.  xx;  (^’3),  42nd  St.  opposite  the 
Grand  Central  Station,  R.  from  $ 1;  Grenoble  (PL  d;  H,  2),  Seventh  Ave., 
cor.  56th  St.,  R.  from  $172:  St.  Andrew,  201  W.  jSnd  St,  of  the 
Boulevard  and  near  the  beginning  of  Riverside  Drive  (PL  K,  1),  well  spoken 
of  R.  from  $2;  Winthrop,  2088  Seventh  Ave.  (Harlem),  R.  $172- 
’ 2.  American  and  European  Plan:  Savot  (PL  B;  H,  I,  3),  Netherland 
(PL  11;  I,  3),  Plaza  (PL  C;  I,  3),  three  large  and  luxurious  houses  at  the 
cor.  of  Fifth  Ave.  and  59ih  St.,  adjoining  Central  Park,  R.  and  board 
from  about  $ 5,  R.  from  $ 2 or  $ 3.  -^Cambridge,  P/tli  ^ve.,  cor  33rd  St., 
frequented  by  diplomats;  Murray  Hill  (PL  A;  (I,  3),  Park  Ave.,  cor. 
41st  St.,  near  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  from  $ R.  from  $ 172*,  San 
Remo  (PL  hh;  K,  2),  Eighth  Ave.,  cor.  74th  St.,  facii^  Central  Dark,  from 
$ 4,  R.  from  $ 2;  -Park  Avenue  (PL  E;  F,  3),  Fourth  Ave.,  cor.  32nd  St, 
from  $ 372,  R.  from  $ 1;  Marlborough  (PL  y ; G,  % Broadway,  cor. 
36th  St,  $ 372,  R.  $ IV25  Brunswick  (PL  xx;  L,  3),  Madron  Av^,  cor. 
89th  St.  from  $ 3,  R.  from  $ 1;  Martha  Washington  Hotel  (PL  yj  ; 
F 3),  29  E.  29th  St.,  for  women  only,  $ 372,  R*  $ 1,  with  restaurant  (open 
to  men),  tea-room,  and  several  shops  for  ladies’  needs  (rooms  should  be 

ordered  m^rican  . Balmoral,  Lenox  Ave.,  cor.  113th  St.,  a family  hotel. 

Most  of  the  hotels  take  in  guests  by  the  week  or  month  at  very  con- 
siderable reductions  of  their  daily  rates  (comp.  p.  xxvii);  pd  when  two 
persons  occupy  one  room  the  charge  is  often  materially  diminished  Many 
of  the  uptown  hotels  are  almost  entirely  occupied  by  permanent  guests 
and  are  little  used  by  tourists.  Fees  to  waiters  and  bell-boys  are  untor- 
tunately  necessary  in  New  York  hotels. 

Boarding  Houses.  Good  board  can  be  procured  in  New  York  from 
$8  a week  upwards,  varying  according  to  the  situation  and  character  01 
the  house.  For  $15-20  one  should  obtain  good  accommodation  in  the 


Best  aur  ants. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  11 


best  neigbbonrbood  (e.g.  near  Madison  Sq.).  Above  Washington  Square  and 
between  7th  and  Lexington  Avenues  boarding-houses  may  be  found  in  every 
block.  Many  are  in  E.  21st  St.,  Gramercy  Park,  Irving  Place,  and  Madison 
Ave.,  while  immense  numbers  can  be  found  on  the  W.  side  by  a little 
search  (vacancies  indicated  by  slips  of  paper  near  the  door-bell)  or  a 
carefully  worded  advertisement.  Good  and  cheaper  boarding-houses  may 
also  be  found  in  Henry  St.  and  the  contiguous  parts  of  Brooklyn  (p.  69) 
near  the  bridge  and  ferries.  A distinct  understanding  should  be  come  to 
beforehand,  and  references  should  be  asked  for  in  houses  not  specially 
recommended.  Light,  heat,  service  (but  not  boot-cleaning),  and  the  use 
of  a bath  should  be  included  in  the  price  for  board. 

Furnished  Rooms  may  be  obtained  in  convenient  quarters  from  $ 4 or 
$ 5 per  week  upwards,  and  breakfast  is  sometimes  provided  in  the  same 
house.  But  the  English  custom  of  living  in  lodgings,  ordering  one’s  own 
meals,  and  having  them  cooked  and  served  by  the  landlady  is  practically 
unknown  in  New  York. 

Restaurants.  The  distinction  made  below  between  d la  carte  and 
t able-d''h6te  restaurants  is  not  necessarily  mutually  exclusive,  but  indicates 
the  general  custom  at  the  different  houses.  At  all  the  high-priced  d la 
carte  restaurants  one  portion  (except  of  oysters  or  desert)  is  generally 
enough  for  two  persons,  and  two  portions  are  abundant  for  three.  Many 
of  the  table-d''h6tc  dinners  are  wonderfully  good  for  the  prices  charged 
but  the  d la  carte  restaurants  are  usually  dear  for  a person  dining  alone! 

^o^owing  list  divides  the  restaurants  into  two  groups,  above  and 
below  14th  St.  It  is  customary  to  give  a small  fee  to  the  waiter,  varying- 
from  5 c.  in  the  cheaper  restaurants  to  25  c.  in  the  best.  Wine  (generally 
poor  and  dear,  except  at  the  foreign  restaurants)  and  beer  (5-10  c.  per 
glass,  10-20  c.  per  pint)  may  be  usually  obtained,  but  are  by  no  means  so 
universally  ordered  as  in  Europe.  Ladies  without  male  escort  are  not 
admitted  to  the  best  restaurants  in  the  evening. 

Restaurants  (above  14th  St.).  1.  A la  carte.  *Delmonico"s 
(FI.  G,  d),  N.E.  cor.  5th  Avenue  and  44th  St.  (formerly  in  Madison  Sq.),  a 
famous  house,  with  high  charges-,  public  and  private  rooms,  cafd,  ball 
rooms,  etc.;  crowded  about  7-8  p.m.  and  after  the  theatres.  Sherry'' s 
(PI.  G,  3),  a similar  establishment  at  the  S.W.  cor.  of  the  same  streets 
with  a very  fashionable  patronage.  Restaurants  at  the  * Waldorf- Astoria 
(fine  roof- garden  restaurant  open  in  summer),  * Holland  Ho.,  ^St.  Regis, 
Neiherland,  Plaza,  Savoy,  Majestic,  San  Remo,  Manhattan,  Hoffman  Ho., 
-Alberrmrle,  Park  Avenue  (court-garden),  *Gilsey  Ho.,  Grand  Union  (Flemish 
Room),  Everett  Ho.,  Imperial,  Ashland  (good  plain  cooking),  and  other  hotels 
on  the  European  plan,  see  above;  Arena  (Muschenheim),  31st  St.,  just  to 
the  E.  of  Broadway,  a popular  resort,  with  rooms  decorated  in  a quaint 
manner;  Flouret  {Hdt.  de  Logerot),  128  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  18th  St.,  well 
spoken  of,  D.  IV4,  with  wine  8 li/oi  Gaf^.  Martin  Fifth  Ava  Oft+v.  cf 


aaoAx,  xjiuauwa-y , utjLween  ana  4dra 

Sts.;  Burns,  785  Sixth  Ave.  and  102  W.  45th  St. r 0''Np.iU.  .8.58  ftivth  AvAr,r.A 


4/iOA  ^ o,  .n-vc.,  muueictie;  nrowne  s unop  House, 

1424  Broadway,  between  39th  and  40th  St.  (good  cuisine  and  interesting 
draniatic  pictures;  men  only);  Cavanagh''s  Oyster  & Chop  House,  258  W.  23rd 
St.  ; vWrewow^iEfo/eiirPl.O.l).  near  Grant’s  MnniimAnt. 


12  Route  2, 


NEW  YORK. 


Confectioners. 


D $ 1;  Riccadonna  {Roversi  Hotel),  31  W.  27tli  St.,  L.  30  c.,  D.  with  wine 
60  c.-,  Hdtel  Eungaria,  Union  Sq.  (E.  side),  D.  with  wine  75  c.  ^ Gazzo, 
Metropolitan  Opera  House  building,  D.  3 1. 

Down  Town  Eestaurants.  1.  A la  carte.  -Caf4  Savarin,  in  the  Equi- 
table Building  (p.  34),  120  Broadway,  finely  fitted  up,  high  charges;  St. 
Denis  Hotel  (Taylor's , Restaur  ant),  native  wines,  see  p.  9-,  Sinclair  House, 
Broadway  cor.  8th  St.,  charges  moderate;  * Fleischmann  s Vienna  Bakery, 
Broadway,  cor.  iOth  St.,  tea  or  cotfee,  with  rolls  25  c ^^^taurant  ^ftairs 
(closes  at  8.30  p.m.);  Eyrie  Restaurant,  on  the  23rd  story 
ciety  Building,  150  Nassau  St.  (fine  view);  Luckow  (German),  108E.  l4thSt. , 
Little  Hungary,  257  E.  Houston  St.  (Hungarian  wines);  ’omo 

William  8t. ; ^Astor  House  (p.  9),  a much-frequented  restaurant  (2000- 
2500  luncheons  served  daily),  with  luncheon-counters,  etc.;  Mouqmr^  A) 
Ann  St.;  ^Solari,  80  University  Place,  good  cuisine  (for  men); 

Lafayette  (p.  9);  Smith  & McNeil,  197  Washington  St.,  moderate ; ld8 

Fulton  St  (American  wines);  Childs''  and  Dennett s Restaurants , see  p.  11; 
■-Farrishu  Chop  Home  (Hicley) , 61  John  St.  - 2.  TaWes-d  hote.  "Bm.  La- 
fayette, see  above,  D.  $ I'A;  ’’Griffou  (p.  9),  D.  60  c.  : Cafi 
Ave.,  cor.  10th  St.,  with  Hungarian  orchestra,  D.  60 e.,  on  S^at  & Sun.  7D  o. 
wine  extra;  Broadway  Central  Hotel  (p.  9),  D.  on  Sun.  (5.o0-b)  70c. 

Among  the  places  frequented  by  ladies  may  be  mentioned  PursseU  s, 
St  Denis  Hotel,  and  the  Vienna  Cafi,  see  above;  Childs"  and  Deiinett  s :^ncheon 
Rooms;  The  Fernery,  14  W.  23rd  St.,  opposite  the  Waldorf-Astoria,  well 
spoken  of;  Colonia,  20  W.  33rd  St.;  the  restam-anls  at  Macy  s (p.  41)  and 
other  large  department  stores;  the  Women's  Exchange,  334  Madison  Ave. 

Oyster  Saloons.  -Dorlon,  6 W.  23rd  St.  (Madison  Sq.),  96  & 187  Ful- 
ton Market;  O'Neill,  see  p.  11;  Silshee,  Sixth  Ave.,  near  14th  St.;  also  at 
nearly  all  other  restaurants  and  at  the  Markets.  v 

The  Hotel  Bars  are  a characteristic  American  feature,  which  mcuy  be 
studied  to  perfection  in  New  York.  Good  bars  at  most  of  leading  ho- 
tels- Stewarfs.  8 Warren  St.,  with  good  pictures  (shown  to  ladies,  9-li 
a.m.’).  The  basement  cafe  of  the  Marlborough  Hotel  (p.  10)  contains  quaint 
pictures  and  curios  (may  be  visited  by  ladies).  The  ‘free  lunches  given 
at  many  bars  are  elaborate  enough  to  suggest  enormous  ^ 

beverages,  which  alone  are  paid  for.  — Automatic  Restaurant,  SdOBroadu  ay, 
for  light  refreshments  and  beverages  of  all  kinds. 

Confectioners.  Maillard,  1097  Broadway ; Huyler,  150  and  863  Broad- 
way, 503  Fifth  Ave.,  and  21  W.  42nd  St.,  also  ff^ous  for  ice  cre^ 

soda’  and  other  refreshing  summer- drinks;  Brummell,  ‘ 

14th  St.,  293  Sixth  Avenue,  etc.;  PursseU  s,  see  p.  11; 
in  Herald  Square;  Allegretti,  927  Broadway.  — Soda-water  flavoured  with 
svraps  of  various  kinds,  ‘ice-cream  sodas  , egg  and  other  phosphates  , and 
other  non-alcoholic  beverages  are  very  popular  and  may  be  Procured  at 
all  confectioners  and  drug-stores  (prices  from  5 c.  upwards), 

Fountain’  at  the  drug-store  is,  indeed,  a prominent  American  institution. 

City  Kailroads.  Tramways.  Post  Office,  etc. 

Elevated  Eailroads  (all  lines  leased  to  Interborougb  Kapid  Tran,sit  Co., 
13-21  Park  Eow).  A large  portion  of  the  passenger  traffic  in  Hew 
is  carried  on  by  the  four  Elevated  Railroads,  which  now  carry  fully 
250  million  passengers  aunually.  All  are  now  /^vln^esV 

There  are  two  lines  on  the  E.  side  of  tne  city  (Second  and  Abird  Avenues), 
and  two  on  the  W.  (Sixth  and  Ninth  Avenues).  The  most  f^equen  ed  i 
the  Third  Avenue  line,  next  to  which  comes  the  Sixth  ^ 

are  disagreeably  crowded  at  business-hours  (first  and  last 
so  than  those  in  the  middle).  Apart  from  this,  the  L , as  it 
called,  affords  a very  pleasant  mode  of  conveyance, 

tageously  with  the  underground  railway  m London.  The  track  may  be 

described  as  a continuous  viaduct  or  bridge,  supported  on 

The  general  height  is  about  on  a level  with  the  first-floor  ^ 

houses,  but  at  places  it  is  much  higher  than  this,  the  Ninth  Avenue  line 


City  Railroads, 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route,  13 


attaining  an  elevation  of  65  ft.  at  llOth  St.,  where  it  forms  a bold  curve 
in  passing  from  !Ninth  to  Eighth  Avenue.  The  stations  occur  about  every 
five  blocks  in  the  lower  quarters,  and  are  nowhere  more  than  1/2  M. 
apart.  Passengers  ascend  from  the  street  by  the  staircases  to  the  right 
(looking  in  the  direction  in  which  they  wish  to  travel),  buy  a ticket  at 
the  ticket-office,  and  drop  it  into  the  ‘chopper-box’  at  the  entrance  to  the 
platform.  The  uniform  fare,  for  any  distance,  is  5 c.;  children  under  five 
free.  On  the  Third  Avenue  line  extra  3-cent  tickets  are  issued  for  transfer 
to  certain  ‘surface-lines’;  these,  of  course,  are  not  dropped  in  the  chopper- 
box  but  are  given  up  to  the  conductor  o.n  the  line  to  which  transfer  is 
made.  The  trains  run  at  intervals  of  a few  minutes  during  the  day,  and 
during  the  business-hours  morning  and  evening  follow  each  other  with 
hardly  an  intermission.  Express-trains,  stopping  at  a few  sfalions  only 
run  on  the  Third  and  Ninth  Avenue  lines  during  the  busiest  hours  (down 
town  in  the  morning,  up  town  in  the  afternoon).  The  Second  Avenue 
trains  cease  running  at  midnight,  but  the  trains  on  the  other  lines  run 
all  night,  at  intervals  of  10  minutes.  The  trains  run  on  all  lines  on 
Sunday,  at  somewhat  less  frequent  intervals.  All  four  lines  start  from 
South  Ferry,  adjoining  the  Barge  Office  (p.  31).  They  vary  in  len<^th 
frona  lOM.  to  133/4  M.  Short  branches  run  from  the  Third  Avenue  Line°to 
the  .City  Hall,  the  34th  St.  Ferry  (these  two  also  from  Second  Ave.),  and 
the  Orand  Central  Depot.  Passengers  should  ascertain  whether  or  not  they 
change  cars  at  the  busy  Chatham  Sq.  station,  where  the  Second  and  Third 
connect.  The  Sixth  Avenue  line  proper  ends  at  Central  Park 
(58th  St.),  but  a branch  diverges  to  Ninth  Avenue  at  53rd  St.,  and  about 
three-fourths  of  the  trains  (‘Karlem  trains’;  green  signals  and  lamps)  follow 
this  route.  The  Ninth  Avenue  Line  ends  at  the  Harlem  River  (see  Plan), 
where  it  connects  with  the  Putnam  Division  of  the  N.  Y.  C.  & H.  R.  R.  for 
High  Bridge  (p.  64)  and  points  in  Westchester  County.  The  Second  and 
Third  Avenue  lines  are  continued  by  a line  crossing  the  Harlem  River 
^d  extending  to^  Bronx  Park.  The  name  of  the  station  is  announced  by 
the  guard  on  arrival,  and  the  name  of  the  ‘next  station’  on  leaving  the 
station.  The  names  are  always  placarded  at  the  stations,  of  which  the 
tollowing  is  a list. 

2nd  Ave.  — South  Ferry,  Hanover  Sq.,  Fulton  St.,  Franklin  Sq.,  Cha- 
tham  Sq.  (chang^e  cars  for  City  Hall),  Canal  St.,  Grand  St.,  Rivington  St., 
(change  cars  for  Hunter’s  Point),  42nd,  50th, 
4^?;,  9yth,  111th,  liTth,  121st,  127th,  129th, 

149th,  la6th,  16ist,  169th  Sts.,  Wendover  Ave.,  174th, 
Inth,  loord  Sts.,  Pelham  Ave.,  and  Bronx  Park. 

— South  Ferry,  Hanover  Sq.,  Fulton  St.,  Franklin  Sq.,  Cha- 

Houston  St., 

9th,  14th,  18th,  23rd,  28th,  34th  (change  cars  for  Hunter’s  Point),  42nd 
Central  Station),  47th,  53rd,  59th,  67th,  76th,  84th, 

161st,  166th,  169th  Sts.,  Wendover  Ave.,  174th,  177th,  183rd  Sts.,  Pelham 
Avenue,  and  Bronx  Park.  ’ 

&th  Ave.  — South  Ferry,  Battery  Place,  Rector  St.,  Cortlandt  St.,  Park  PI., 
Chambers  St.,  Franklin  St.,  Grand  St.,  Bleecker  St.,  9th,  14th.  18th  23rd 
(with  moving  staircase),  28th,  33rd,  42nd,  50th  (change  cars  for  58th  St.  & 
f 59th,  66th,  72nd,  81st,  93rd,  104th,  110th,  116th 
from  59th  to  104th  are 

on  Ninth  Ave..  116th  to  155th  on  Eighth  Ave.). 

cf  w Ferry  Battery  Place,  Rector  St.,  Cortlandt  St.,  Barclay 

4’!)^  ^00  Fesbrosses  St.,  Houston  St.,  Christopher  St., 

Ifnh  S9th,  66th,  72nd,  81st,  93rd,  104th  110th 

116tb,  125th,  130th,  j35th,  140th,  145th,  155th  Sts.  ’ ’ ’ 

Brooklyn  Bridge  Railway.  Trains  of  three  or  four  cars,  propelled  by 
electricity  or  by  an  endless  cable,  cross  the  Brooklyn  Bridge  (see  p.  36) 
m 6 min._,  running  at  intervals  of  about  45  seconds.  Some  of  thern 
continue  in  Brooklyn  over  the  Elevated  Railroads  to  all  parts  of  the  city 

the  bridge.  At  the  hew  York  end  the  platforms  communicate  directly 


14  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Subway. 


with  the  City  Hall  branch  of  the  Third  Avenue  Elevated.  Comp.  p.  69.  — 
Electric  Tramways  over  Brooklyn  Bridge,  see  p.  36. 

Rapid  Transit  Railroad  or  New  York  Subway  {Interlorough  Rapid 
Transit  Go  13-21  Park  Row).  An  important  addition  to  the  transit  facilities 
of  the  city  is  afforded  by  this  underground  electric  railroad,  begun  in 
March,  1900,  and  opened  for  traffic  in  1904.  It  is  21  M.  in  total  length, 
151/2  M of  this  being  underground  (12V4  M.  shallow  subway,  31/4  M.  tunnel 
proper),  and  extends  from  City  Hall  to  (14  M.)  Eingshridge,  Spuyten  Duyvil 
Creek,  on  the  W.  side  of  the  city,  and  to  (14  M.)  Bronx  Park  on  the 
E.  side.  The  line  is  to  be  extended  to  Atlantic  Ave.,  Brooklyn,  by  means 
of  a tunnel  under  the  East  River. 

The  present  line  starts  at  the  Post  Office,  runs  to  the  N.  up  Elm  bt. 
and  Fourth  Ave.  to  42nd  St,  crosses  under  42nd  St.  to  the  W.  side,  and 
continues  up  Broadway,  N.W.  and  due  N.,  to  lOfth  St. 
the  W.  branch  continuing  almost  due  N.  to  Kingshridge,  while  the  E. 
branch  follows  Lenox  Ave.  to  the  N.  to  143rd  St.  and  then  runs  m a N.E. 
direction  to  Bronx  Park  (comp.  Plan).  , , ,, 

At  125th  St.  the  W.  Side  line  crosses  Manhattan  Valley  on  a viaduct 
to  135th  St.  At  150th  St.  it  again  enters  a tunnel.  At  167th  and  Iblst  bts., 
the  stations  are  hollowed  out  of  the  solid  rock,  110  ft.  underground,  and 
are  reached  by  elevators.  At  Fort  George  the  viaduct  again  appears,  and 
finishes  the  route.  The  latter  part  of  the  E.  Side  line,  from  Westchester 
Ave.  to  Bronx  Park,  is  also  elevated.  * v ^ a 

The  Subway  is  rectangular  in  section,  with  concrete  ^ 

frame  construction;  it  is  13  ft.  high,  and  jaries  in  width  from  25  ft.  (two 
tracks)  to  50  ft.  (four  tracks).  The  cost  of  the  road  was  $ 3o,00J,0JU 

^^’“r’^running-time  from  City  Hall  Park  to  96th  St  is  13  min.  for  express 
trains,  and  21  min.  for  local  trains.  Uniform  fare,  5 c. 

Statioss:  Brooklyn  Bridge,  City  Hall  v'lfci’is'sl  ’ 

Spring  St.,  Bleecker  St.,  Astor  Place,  14th,  18th,  23rd,  23th,  & 33rd  Sts  , 
42nd  St.  & Park  Ave.,  42nd  St.  & Broadway,  50th  St.,  Columbus 
66th,  T2nd,  79th,  86th,  91st,  96th.  and  103rd  Sts.  Here  the  line  forks.  West 
Side  Stations:  Cathedral  Parkway,  ll6th  St.,  Manhattan  St.,  137th,  l45th, 
-lfS7+h  167th  181st  Sts  Dyckman  St.,  View  Ave.,  Kingsbridge  (Bailey 

Avf).  S’sL  Srlxioxs:  liU,  118th,’l25th,  135th, 145th  Sts.,  149th St. 

& Mott  Ave.,  149th  St.  & Third  Ave.,  Jackson  Ave.,  Prospect  Ave  , West- 
chester Ave.  & Southern  Boulevard,  Southern  Bd.  & Freeman  St.,  174th  St., 
177th  St.,  Bronx  Park. 

Tramways.  Nearly  all  the  avenues  running  N. 
the  important  cross-streets  are  traversed  by  Tramways  (Street  Cars,  Sui 
face  Cars),  most  of  which  are  now  operated  by 

trolley  svstem').  A few  of  the  cross-town  cars  are  still  drawn  by  horses. 
Srm^Lre  for  any  distance  5 c.  About  550  million  passengers  are 
carried  annually,  and  overcrowding  is  nearly  as  co^tant, 
the  Broadway  cars,  as  on  the  Elevated  The  c«s 

usually  furnished  without  extra  charge  for  the  cross-lines.  The  ^rs 
nominally  stop  only  at  the  upper  crossings  going  up  and  at  the  Iwer 
crossings^going  down  town.  All  lines  run  «7«y/ew  minutes,  and  most 
of  them  run  all  night.  The  following  is  a list  of  ‘lie  ' ^rom  SnutA 

A.  The  Noeth  and  South  Lines.  — 1.  Broadwat  Line. 

Ferry  (p.  17)  through  Whitehall  St.,  Broadway,  45th  St.,  and  Seven 

i^ENUE  Line.  From  South  Ferry  along  Broadway  as  J^^^e 
to  45th  St.  and  thence  by  7th  Ave.,  W.  53rd  St.,  and  9th  or  Columbus  Ave. 
to  109th  St.  Thence  by  Lenox  Ave.  Line  (see  p.  1^-  onovo 

3.  Lexington  Avenue  Line.  From  South  Fer?*?/  by  Broadway  as  above 

to  23rd  St.  and  thence  by  Lexington  ^ve.  to  St  parV 

4.  Fourth  Avenue  Line.  From  the  Post  Office  (^.  34) 

Row,  Centre  St.,  Grand  St.,  the  Bowery,  Fourth 

Avenue  to  Mott  Haven  (138th  St.).  Some  of  the  cars  on  this  line  start 
from  and  return  to  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Astor  t'lace. 


Tramways. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  16 


5.  Third  Avenue  Line.  From  the  Astor  House  (p.  9)  tlirough  Park  Row, 
Chatham  St.,  the  Bowery,  and  Third  Avenue,  to  Harlem  River  (p.  64; 
130th  St.);  also  by  same  route  to  125th  St.  and  thence  via  Amsterdam 
Ave.  to  Fort  Qeorge  (195th  St.). 

6.  Second  Avenue  Line.  From  the  Post  Office  (p.  34)  through  Park 
Row,  Chatham  St.,  the  Bowery,  and  Grand,  Forsyth,  and  Houston  Sts., 
and  along  Second  Ave.  to  Harlem  River  (129th  St.),  returning  by  nearly 
the  same  route. 

7.  First  Avenue  Line.  From  South  Ferry  by  South,  Front,  Monroe, 
Grand,  Goerck,  and  Houston  Sts.,  Ave.  D,  14th  St.,  Ave.  A,  23rd  St.,  and 
First  Ave.  to  Harlem  River  (125th  St.).  This  line  passes  all  the  E.  side  ferries. 

8.  Sixth  Avenue  and  Amsterdam  Avenue  Line.  From  South  Ferry 
through  Greenv/ich  St.,  Church  St.,  W.  Broadway,  4th  St.,  6th  Ave., 
59th  St.,  and  Amsterdam  Ave.,  to  Fort  Qeorge  (195th  St.).  Another  branch 
runs  from  4th  St.  through  Sixth  Ave.  to  59th  St.  and  thence  to  the  E. 
to  First  Avenue. 

9.  Seventh  Avenue  Line.  From  cor.  of  Sixth  Ave.  and  ith  St.  by  Sixth 
Ave.,  23rd  St.,  Seventh  Ave.,  45th  St.,  Broadway,  and  Manhattan  St.  to 
Fort  Lee  Ferry  (130th  St.). 

10.  Eighth  Avenue  Line.  From  South  Ferry  (p.  17)  through  Greenwich 
St.  and  W.  Broadway  to  Canal  St.,  and  thence  by  Hudson  St.  and  Eighth 
Ave.  to  Harlem  River  (155th  St.). 

11.  Ninth  Avenue  liiNE.  From  Cortlandt  St.  Ferry  (p.  17)  through 
Greenwich  St.  and  Columbus  Ave.  to  109th  St. 

12.  Tenth  Avenue  Line  (West  Side  Belt  Line).  From  South  Ferry 
through  Whitehall  St.,  Bowling  Green,  Battery  Place,  West  St.,  and  10th 
Ave.,  to  59th  St.  The  cars  pass  all  the  W.  side  ferries. 

13.  Twenty-Eighth  and  Twenty-Ninth  Streets  Line.  From  3Uh  St. 
Ferry  (E.  River)  through  First  Ave.,  29th  St.,  11th  Ave.,  and  24th  St.  to 
Pennsylvawa  R.  R.  Ferry  (N.  River),  returning  through  28th  St. 

14.  Bleegker  Street  Line.  From  Brooklyn  Bridge  (p.  38)  through 
Centre,  Leonard,  Elm,  Canal,  Greene,  Bleecker,  Macdougal,  W.  4th,  W.  12th, 
Hudson,  and  14th  Sts.  to  IMh  St.  Ferry. 

15.  City  Hall,  Avenue  B,  and  Thirty -Fourth  St.  Line.  From  the 
Post  Office  (p.  31)  through  Park  Row,  Chatham  St.,  E.  Broadway,  Avenue 
B,  14th  St.,  First  Ave.,  and  34th  St.  to  3Mh  St.  Ferry  (p.  17). 

16.  Kingsbridge  Line.  From  corner  of  125th  St.  and  Eighth  Avenue 
through  125th  St.,  Amsterdam  Ave.,  and  Kingsbridge  Road  to  the  Harlem 
River  Ship  Canal  Bridge  (22 1st  St.). 

17.  Lenox  Avenue  Line.  From  109th  St.  (cor.  Columbus  Ave.)  by  Man- 
hattan Ave.,  116th  St.,  and  Lenox  Ave.  to  146th  St.  (Harlem  River).  This 
line  connects  with  No.  2. 

Several  overhead  electric  lines  also  ply  from  Harlem  Bridge  (p.  64) 
and  Central  Bridge  (p.  65)  to  points  in  the  Borough  of  the  Bronx  (p.  65), 
beyond  the  river. 

B.  Cross-Town  Lines  (E.  andW.).  — 18.  Grand  and  Cortlandt  St.  Line, 
From  Grand  St.  Ferry  (p.  17),  through  Grand  St.,  E.  Broadway,  Canal  St., 
Walker  St.,  W.  Broadway,  and  Washington  St.,  to  Cortlandt  St.  Ferry  (p.  17). 

19.  Fulton  Street  Line.  From  Fulton  Ferry  (E.  River;  p.  17)  through 
Fulton  St.,  to  Barclay  St.  Ferry  (p.  17)  or  to  Cortlandt  St.  Ferry  (N.  River ; p.  17). 

20.  Chambers  and  Grand  Sts.  Line.  From  Grand  St.  Ferry  (p.  17) 
through  Grand,  Madison,  New  Chambers,  and  Chambers  Sts.  to  Erie  R.  R. 
Ferry  (p.  17).  In  returning,  through  Duane  St.  to  New  Chambers  St., 
thence  as  above  (reversed).  Another  branch  runs  from  New  Chambers  St. 
through  James  Slip  to  Roosevelt  St.  Ferry  (East  River;  p.  17). 

21.  Spring  and  Delancey  Sts.  Line.  From  Grand  St.  Ferry  (p.  17) 
through  East  St.,  Delancey  St.,  Bowery,  Spring  St.,  West  Broadway,  Broome 
St.,  Sullivan  St.,  Watts  St.,  and  West  St.  to  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  Ferry  (North 
River;  p.  17). 

22.  Avenue  C Line.  From  Erie  R.  R.  Ferry,  Chambers  St.  (p.  17), 
through  West  St.,  Charlton  St.,  Prince  St.  (in  returning  Houston  St.),  the 
Bowery,  Stanton  St.,  Avenue  C,  18th  St.,  and  Ave.  A,  to  23rd  St.  Ferry  (p.  17). 


16  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Carriages. 


23  Fourteenth  and  Grand  Sts.  Line.  From  Grand  St.  F^ry  (p.  17), 
through  Goerck  St.,  2nd  St.,  Ave.  A,  and  14th  St.  to  Uth  St.  Ferry  (p.  17). 

24  Desbrosses;  Vestry,  and  Grand  St.  Line.  From  Grand  St.  Ferry 
(p.  17)i  through  Grand,  Sullivan,  Vestry,  Greenwich,  and  Deshrosses  bts. 
to  Desbrosses  St.  Ferry  (p. 

25.  Fourteenth  St.  Line.  From  Union  Sqvare  along  14th  St.  to  Imn 

fr^’toEisilpHEE  AND  Tenth  Sts.  Line.  From  Christopher  St.  F^g 
fp.  17)  through  Christopher  St.,  Greenwich  Ave.,  8th  St.,  Ave.  A,  and  Ji.  . 
lOth  St  to  Ferrv  at  foot  of  E.  10th  St.  (p.  17). 

27.  Central  Cross-Town  E-ailroad.  Froin  St.  East  River 

(p.  17)  through  Ave.  A,  18th  St.,  Broadway,  14th  St.,  7th  Ave.,  and  W. 
11th  St.  to  Christopher  St.  Ferry  (p.  17). 

28  Twenty -Third  St.  Line.  From  end  to  end  of  23rd  St.,  with  a 
branch  via  2nd  Ave.  and  34th  St.  to  34th  St.  Ferry  (p.  17b 

29.  One  Hundred  and  Twenty-Fifth  Street  Line.  From  E.  end  of 
125ih  St.,  via  125th  St.  and  Manhattan  St.  to  Fort  Lee  Ferry  (p. 

30.  Thirty-Fourth  St.  Cross-Town  Line.  From54iA  St.  Feriy  (E.K.) 

to  42nd  p Boulevard  Line.  From  34th  Ferry 
rFast  Biver-  p 29),  by  1st  Ave.,  42nd  St.,  7th  Ave.,  Broadway,  59th  St., 
TomlJ  (p.  63),  and  129tF  St  to  FoH  iee 
(p  17),  W 130th  St.  This  line  runs  near  Riverside  Park  (p.  b2b  A 
branch-line  runs  along  42nd  St.  to  Tenth  Ave.  and  thence  to  the  N.  to 
Broadway  where  it  joins  the  line  just  described^  and  another  runs  via 
First  Ave  110th  St.,  and  St.  Nicholas  Avenue  to  Fort  Lee  ^^2;ot 

32.  Forty-Second  St.  Line.  From  WUliamsburg  Ferry  (P- 
of  42ad  St.,  East  River,  to  WeehawTcen  Ferry  (p.  17),  toot  of  42nd  St., 

^iSty-Sixth  St.  Line.  Fvovq.  Astoria  Ferry  {,92nd  St.,  East  Ewer; 
p.  17)  through  Ave.  A,  86th  St.,  Madison  Transverse  Road 

No  3 across  Central  Park,  to  Eighth  Ave.  and  86m  St.  ^ 0+ 

34  One  Hdndeed  and ’sixteenth  St.  Line.  From  ^ 

and  Pleasant  Ave.,  throngh  li6tli  St.,  Manhattan  Ave.,  109tli  St.,  Columbus 
Ave.,  and  106tti  St.  to  Amsterdam  Avenue. 

Omnibuses  (‘Sta^^es’)  run  from  Bleecker  St.  through  S.  Fifth  Avenue, 
WasbTngtonlci.,  and°Fifth  Avenue  to  89th  St.  (fare  5 c.).  Electric  omnibuses 
(10  c.)  al^o  ply,  more  or  less  irregularly,  on  this  route.  Other  omnih 
are  of  little  interest  to  visitors. 

Carriages  The  cab  system  is  still  in  a somewhat  undeveloped  condition 
in  Eew  York  owin'  partly  to  the  high  fares,  partly  to  the  abundance  of 
tramway  and’railway  accommodation,  and  partly  to 
of  thrsTreets,  which  makes  driving,  outside  the  ff 

blit  a nleasure  Hackney  Carriages,  however,  are  in  waiting  at  the  railway 
stations  Trries  an  principal  steamboat  docks,  and  are  also  found  on 
sfaX  al  Madison  Sq.,  LionSq.,  City  Hall  Park  a„d  niany  other_|Oin^^ 
The  fares  are  as  follows;  Hachney  Carriages  or  Coachg^o  carry  14  ^ers., 
generally  with  two  horses,  $1  for  the  first  mile,  and  50  c for  each  /a  M. 
fddit  • ner  hr  $1V2,  each  addit.  Vs  hr.  75  c.,  waiting  40  c.  per  Vi  hr. 
fno  charee  fo^stop  of  less  than  5 min.).  Cabs  and  Bansoms  for  1-2  pers., 
00  c 25  c $ 1 50  c.,  25  c.  One  trunk,  not  exceeding  50  lbs.  m weight,  free -, 
Stra  luggage  25  c.’ per  piece.  Children  under  eight  years  of  age,  free 
Garriages^hfred  from^ hotels  or  livery-stables  are  ’ 41^^53 

authorised  table  of  fares  should  be  “^foekt  from  E 

e,5timated  as  equal  to  twenty  blocks  from  N.  to  ®- ^ 
to  W to  the  W of  Fifth  Ave.  and  as  eight  blocks  to  the  E.  ot  ^ 
casTof  disputf'the  driver  should  he  told  to 

office  or  to  the  City  Hall,  where  a complaint  may  be  made  to  the  Mc^or 
Marshal,  Room  No  1.  Or  the  hirer  may  pay  faTaT  In^^^  cases 

complaint  through  the  Merchants'  Association,  o46 

a distinct  bargain  should  he  made  beforehand,  and  it  is  often  possible  to 


Post  Office. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  17 


make  one  on  more  favourable  terms  than  the  legal  fares.  — Electric  Cals 
(1-2  pers. ; $ 1 for  the  first  two  miles,  50  c.  for  each  extra  mile  ^ shopping 
or  visiting  $ 1 per  hour)  may  be  found  in  Broadway,  above  Madison  Sq. 

The  Pennsylvania  Railroad  Company  has  organized  an  excellent  cab  ser- 
vice for  passengers  arriving  at  its  23rd  St.  Station.  The  fares,  which  are 
prominently  displayed  in  each  vehicle,  are  as  follows  : hansom  or  victoria, 
for  1-2  pers.,  I1/2  M.  25  c.,  each  addit.  mile  or  fraction  15  c. ; four-wheeler, 
I72  M.,  1-2  pers.  40  c.,  3-4  pers.  50  c.,  each  addit.  mile  or  fraction  20  c. ; 
small  omnibuses,  IV2  M.,  1-4  pers.  $ 1,  each  addit.  pers.  10  c.,  each  addit. 
mile  25  c.  Trunk  10  c.,  valise  carried  outside  5 c.  — The  New  York  Central 
has  a similar  service  in  connection  with  the  Grand  Central  Station  (fares 
a little  higher). 


The  Excursion  Brakes,  Automobiles,  and  Steam  Yacht  of  the  so-called 
Seeing  New  York’  company  (office.  Fifth  Ave.,  side  of  Flat-iron  Building, 
p.  40)  afi’ord  an  excellent  method  of  making  a first  general  acquaintance 
with  the  city.  The  brakes  start  from  the  Flat-iron  Building  daily  (incl.  Sun.) 
at  10  a.m.  and  4 p.m.,  and  visit  Fifth  Avenue,  Central  Park,  Grant’s  Tomb 
Riverside  Drive,  etc.  (21/2  hrs.  ^ fare  $ IV2).  The  automobiles  start  daily 
from^  the  same  place  at  9.30  a.m.,  2 p.m.,  and  4.30  p.m.,  and  visit  the  places 
of  historic  and  other  interest  in  the  lower  (S.)  part  of  the  city  (IV2  hr.* 
fare  $ D/O.  The  steam-yacht  starts  daily  from  the  Hudson  River  Day  Line 
Pier  at  the  foot  of  W.  22nd  St.  and  circumnavigates  the  island  of  Manhattan 
^ accompanied  by  a guide  who  points  out  the 

chief  objects  of  interest  (when  necessary,  by  means  of  a megaphone). 


Ferries  (see  Plan).  To  Brooklyn.^  from  Catherine  St.,  Fulton  St.,  Wall 
St.,  Whitehall  St.  (South  Ferry),  and  E.  42nd  St.  To  Williamslurg  or 
East  Brooklyn.,  from  Grand  St.,  Roosevelt  St.,  E.  Houston  St.,  E.  23rd  St 
and  E.  42nd  St.  To  Greenpoint,  from  E.  10th  St.  and  E.  23rd  St.  To  Hunter^s 
Point.,  Long  Island  City.,  from  James  Slip  and  E.  34th  St.  To  Astoria.  Long 
Island  City.,  from  E.  92nd  St.  (10  c.).  To  Jersey  City : from  Desbrosses  St., 
from  W.  23rd  St.,  and  from  Cortlandt  St.  to  Pennsylvania  Railway  Station; 
from  Whitehall  St.  and  Liberty  St.  to  Central  of  New  Jersey  Railway 
Station  (Communipaw;  fare  8 c.);  from  Chambers  St.  and  from  W.  23rd  St. 
to  Pavonia  Avenue  and  Erie  Railroad.  To  Hoboken,  from  Barclay,  Chri- 
stopher, and  W.  14th  Sts.  To  Weehawken,  from  W.  42nd  St.  and  F^nklin 
St.  To  Edgewater,  for  Fort  Lee,  from  W.  130th  St.  (5  c.).  To  Staten  Island, 
from  South  Ferry  (0  c.).  To  Blackwell's,  to  Ward's,  and  to  Randall's  Is^ 
required;  no  charge).  To  Hart's  Island  from 
E ibth  St.  (40  c.  and  pass).  To  Liberty  Island  (see  p.  3)  and  to  Governor's 
I^and  (pass)  from  the  Battery.  To  Ellis  Island  from  the  Barge  Office  The 
Brooklyn’  or  ‘Pennsylvania  Annex’  is  an  important  ferry  connecting 
Brooklyn  (Fulton  St.,  near  the  Suspension  Bridge)  with  the  Penn  R R 
terminus  in  New  Jersey  (fare  10  c.).  The  ferries  ply  at  frequent  inter- 
vals, the  more  important  running  every  few  minutes  in  the  business- 
hour®.  Fares  generally  1-3  c.  The  ferry-boats  are  comfortable  and  very 
unlike  European  steamers.  One  side  is  devoted  to  a ladies’  cabin,  but 
men  may  also  use  this  when  not  smoking.  These  ferries  carry  about 
200  inillion  passengers  yearly. 


Post  Office  (comp.  p.  xxix).  The  General  Post  Office  (see  p.  34),  City 
Hall  Park,  is  open  day  and  night;  closed  on  Sun.,  except  9-11  a.m  The 
Money  Order  Office,  on  the  second  floor,  Rooms  40-42,  is  open  daliy,  except 
bun.  and  holidays,  10-5.  The  General  Delivery  windows  (for ‘PosteRestante’ 
letters)  are  on  the  groundfloor,  Park  Row  side.  The  Registered  Letter  Office 
is  on  the  mezzanine  floor.  Besides  the  G.P.O.  district,  the  city  is  divided 
into  about  thirty -five  postal  districts,  each  served  by  a branch  post-office  or 
generally  designated  by  letters  of  the  alphabet  (Station  A,  etc.: 
open  ?-b,  Sun.  9-11  a.m.) , and  there  are  also  about  180  Sub-Stations,  in 
druggists  shops,  where  all  the  ordinary  postal  services  are  rendered,  in- 
ciuding  the  issue  of  domestic  or  inland  money  orders.  Letters  within 
delivered  more  expeditiously  if  the  ‘station  letter’  is  affixed 
to  the  address.  Letters  are  also  expedited  in  delivery  if  posted  on  the 
Baedeker’s  United  Stales.  3rd  Edit.  2 


18  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Theatres. 


TTiftli  Ave  TE  or  W.)  as  their  destination.  Stamps  are  also 
s^Td  if  many  (cWefi^  druggiata')  throughout  the  city;  and 

letters  mTv  be  posted  in  ^hout  ^00  Letter  Boxes,  ^mp-posts,  or 

n any  ho^el  From  12  to  25  collections,  and  from  3 o 9 deliveries  are 
>^ade^dSlv  according  to  the  district.  Letters  are  collected  on  Sun.  (at 
Kas  frequent  intervafa),  hut  not  delivered; 

obtained  on  Sun.,  9-11  a.m.,  on  the  Mezzanine  Floor,  G.P.O.,  and  at  tne 
district-offices.  The  time  of  closing  of  foreign  mails  is  adve^ised  ^ the 
daily  papers-,  the  chief  European  mails  are  despatched  on  Tues.,  Wed., 
Thurs.,  and  Saturday.  ^ ^ r 

Telegraph  Offices  (comp.  p.  xxix).  Western  Union  Telegraph  Co  (p  34), 
195  BroXay  ; Lef  br'anch?o&ces  599,  854  and  122^  B^adway,  16 
Qf  R91  Sixth  Avenue.  Fifth  Ave.  (cor.  23rd  St.),  and  loo  E.  l/iOtn  o • 

Fnese  are^onen  day  and  night.  There  are  also  about  200  other  branch-offices 
throughout^ the  Jity,  including  all  the  principal  hotels 
Central  Depot,  and  Atlantic  Cable  messages  ^^^*3  a)  c^ 

these  The  rate  for  local  messages  m New  Yoric  and  Brookljn  is  .iu  c. 
per  10  words,  and  1 c.  for  each  additional  word ; for  other  par^s  of  the 

‘ siruV^f  CO?,  t53^B;:a|w| 

MtaTm7reW?Vr?nct  and‘aerm\nrf^^^ 

30  c.:  Holland,  Italy  32  c.  ; Denmark  and  Isorway  3Dc.;  Austria-Hunga  y 
34  c.-,  Sweden  39  c.;  Russia  43  c.  ^ TsTr^TTr  Vat-v  iq 

Telephone  Offices.  The  telephonic  communication  of  hew  lorK  is 

mainly  in  the  hands  of  the  New  Yoric  Telephone  Co.  15  Dey 

b^anci Offices  at  952  Broadway,  115  W.  38th  St.,  and  numerous  other  points 

aroughout  tL  cUy,  at  any  of" which  persons  may  he  put  in  communication 
with  members  of  the  Telephone  Exchange  at  the  rate  of  10  c.  per  o minuies. 
?fs“o?flces  are  generLly  located  in  hotels,  drug-stores  telegraph- 
statfons  fenv-housis,  and  lo  on.  The  ‘Long  Distance  Telephone , at  all 
puhhc  (‘pay’)"stations,  communicates  with  Albany,  Boston,  Philadelphia, 
WashiDgton,  Chicago,  etc.  (charges  high). 

Messenser  Service.  This  is  carried  on  by  the  American  District  Tele- 
rtrn.'nh  Go  f8  Dev  St)  and  the  Postal  Telegraph  Co.  (253  Broadway),  which 
TaTe  numetus^fficis  t^^^^  New  York,  f m the  stations^oj 

the  telegraph  companies.  Message  boys  can  be  summon  ^ ^ 

matic  calls'  found  in  hotels,  banks,  offices,  and  many  private  houses.  Fees 
bv  tariff  (about  30-40  c.  per  hour).  . .-u  v ^ fo  « 

^ Express  Service.  Broadway  below  Trinity  Church  is  the  headquarters 
of  the  numerous  express  companies  of  New  York,  by  wbich 
be  expressed  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  Among  the  chief, 

Le?  Adams  Express  Go.,  No.  59;  American  Express  Go 
%atcs  Express  Co..  No.  49;  Wells,  Fargo,  & Co.,  No.  63. 
baggagfv^thin  the  United  States,  the  traveller  will,  however, 
to  llale  his  hotel.  Among  the  chief  ‘Transfer  Companies'  for  transferring 
luggage  within  New  York  and  Brooklyn  are  ifcs«co«  (co^^ 
and  147th  St.)  and  the  New  York  Transfer  Co.^  (1  Astor  House  and 
Broadway);  25-50  c.  per  trunk,  according  to  distance.  ^ , cf 

Tourist  Agents.  Raymond  WhUcomb,  25  Union  Sq.;  Thos.  Cook  «<», 
261  and  1225  Broadway., 

Theatres.  Concerts.  Sport.  Clubs,  etc. 

Theatres.  Metropolitan  Opera  Borne  (Rl.  6, _ 2). 

$ 1-5.  - Academy  of  Music  (Pi.  E,  3),  cor.  of  Irvmg  PI.  an_d  E 14th  S^^now 

corter'”of"B™adwry  anTloth‘sY.  fpTI,  3),  prictiVef  - Vall^^'j_ 
Theatre,  Broadway,  cor  30th  8t.  CPI;  bu^Vpi^G  2DVore^e"?  light' Jp«as, 
Broadway  neatre  B™adway,  cor.  41st  St.  - Lyric  Theatre, 

ffl’.  W- w^h  eiahorate 


Music  Halls. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  19 


plastic  and  painted  decorations.  — Hudson  Theatre.,  W.  44th  St.  — Liberty 
Theatre.,  W.  41st  St.  — Majestic.,  Broadway,  cor.  of  59th  St.  (PI.  I,  2),  prices 
up  to  $ IV2.  — New  York  Theatre.,  Broadway,  between  44th  & 45th  Sts. 
(PI.  Gr,  2)-,  $ V4-1V2-  — Belasco  Theatre.,  Broadway,  cor.  of  W.  42nd  St. 
(PI.  G,  2);  $ 1/2-2.  — Criterion.,  Broadway,  cor.  of  44th  St.  (PI.  G,  2);  $1/2-2. 

— Savoy.,  112  W.  34th  St.  (PI.  G,  2);  from  50  c.  — Victoria,  Seventh  Ave., 
cor.  of  42nd  St.  (PI.  G,  2)^  $ 1/2-I1/2.  — Princess,  Broadway,  cor.  of  29th 
St.  (PI.  F,  3);  $ 1/2-2.  — Murray  Hill  Theatre.,  Lexington  Ave.,  cor.  of  42nd 
St.  (PI.  G,  3)^  $ 1/4-11/2.  — Vaudeville,  19  W.  44th  St.  (PI.  G,  2);  $ I-21/2.  - 
Casino,  Broadway,  cor.  39th  St.  (PI.  G,  2),  operettas;  adm.  $ V2-2;  in 
summer,  concerts  on  the  roof,  see  below.  — Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  F,  2), 
Eighth  Ave.,  cor.  23rd  St.,  a large  house  (2200  seats);  $ 1/4-I1/2.  — Garden 
Theatre,  Madison  Ave.,  cor.  of  27th  St.  (PI.  F,  2;  see  below),  comedy; 
$1/2-2.  — Manhattan  Theatre,  Broadway,  cor.  33rd  St.  (PI.  F,  G,  2);  $ 1/2- 
11/2.  — Knickerbocker  Theatre,  cor.  of  Broadway  and  38th  St.  (PI.  G,  2); 
$ V2-2.  — Garrick  Theatre  (PI.  G,  3),  W.  35th  St.,  to  the  E.  of  Sixth  Ave.; 
$ 1/2-2.  — Bijou  Theatre,  Broadway,  between  30th  and  31st  Sts.  (PI.  F,  3); 
$1/2-11/2-  — Fourteenth  St.  Theatre  (PI.  E,  2),  near  Sixth  Ave.;  popular 
pieces;  $ 1/4-11/2-  — Irving  Place  Theatre  (Amberg''s) , cor.  of  Irving  Place 
and  E.  15th  St.;  performances  in  German;  35c.  to  $11/2.  — Thalia, 
48  Bowery  (PI.  C,  4);  formerly,  as  the  ‘Bowery  Theatre’,  the  leading 
theatre  of  New  York,  but  now  relinquished  to  ‘down  town’  performances 
in  Yiddish;  $1/4-!.  — Third  Avenue  Theatre,  between  30th  and  31st  Sts. 
(PI.  F,  3),  melodrama  and  popular  pieces;  15-75  c.  — American  Theatre 
(PI.  G,  2),  Eighth  Ave.,  near  42nd  St.,  with  roof-garden;  cheap  but  good 
opera,  plays,  etc. ; $ 1/4-I.  — Empire  Theatre,  Broadway,  cor.  40th  St.  (PI.  G,  2) ; 
$ 1/2-2.  — Herald  Square  Theatre,  Broadway,  cor.  35th  St.  (PI.  G,  2);  $ 1/2-2. 

— Drury  Lane  Theatre,  34th  St.,  near  Eighth  Ave.  (to  be  opened  shortly).  — 
Harlem  Opera  House,  125th  St.,  near  Seventh  Ave.  (PI.  O,  3);  $ 1/2-I1/2-  — 
West  End  Theatre,  E.  125th  St.,  near  Ninth  Ave.  (PI.  0,3);  $ V4-I.  — The 
performances  at  the  New  York  theatres , unless  otherwise  stated  in  the 
advertisements,  begin  at  8 or  8.15  p.m.;  ‘matinee’  performances  at  2,2.15, 
or  2.30  p.m.  on  Saturday.  Tickets  may  be  bought  in  advance  at  111 
Broadway  and  the  chief  hotels  (small  premium  charged),  but  this  is  not 
often  necessary.  Full  dress  is  nowhere  compulsory,  but  is  customary 
at  the  Opera,  Daly’s,  and  the  Lyceum.  Ladies  often  wear  street-dress, 
even  when  accompanied  by  gentlemen  in  evening  dress,  but  are  generally 
expected  to  dotf  their  hats. 

Music  Halls  and  other  Places  of  Amusement.  Madison  Square  Garden 
(p.  49) , a huge  block  bounded  by  Madison  and  Fourth  Avenues  and  26th 
and  27th  Sts.,  containing  an  amphitheatre,  accommodating  15,000  people 
and  used  for  horse-shows , flower-shows , equestrian  performances , and 
the  like;  a theatre  (see  above) ; a large  concert  and  ball  room  (1500  people) ; 
a restaurant;  and  an  open-air  garden  on  the  roof  (4000  people).  *View 
of  New  York,  by  day  or  night,  from  the  Tower  (300  ft.  high;  elevator; 
adm.  25  c.;  open  10-6).  — Eden  Musie,  23rd  St.,  between  Fifth  and  Sixth 
Avenues;  a wax -work  show,  with  good  musical  performances,  winter- 
garden,  smoking-room,  etc.,  open  11-11,  Sun.  1-11;  adm.  50  c.,  on  Sun. 
25  c.  — Tony  Pastor's , in  Tammany  Hall  Building  (p.  34),  a theatre  of 
varieties;  adm.  $ ^4-1-  — Proctor's  Theatres,  Broadwav,  cor.  of  28th  St 
(Fifth  Avenue),  23rd  St.,  125th  St.,  and  E.  58th  St.,  near  third  Ave.,  all  give 
continuous  variety  performances;  prices  from  25  c.  up.  — Keith's  Union 
Square  Theatre,  S.  side  of  Union  Sq. ; continuous  variety  performances; 
omu  ^ ‘ ~ ^ Field's  (Broadway  Music  Hall),  Broadway,  cor. 

29th  St. ; from  oO  c.  up.  — Casino  Garden,  on  the  top  of  the  Casino  Theatre 
(see  above),  a beer-garden,  with  musical  performances  (in  summer);  adm. 
free  to  visitors  of  the  theatre.  — The  so-called  ’■Dime  Museums'  can 
scarcely  be  recommended,  and  visitors  should  also  steer  clear  of  most  of 
the  Concert  Saloons'. 

Concerts.  Whether  owing  to  the  large  German  element  in  its  popu- 
lation or  to  other  causes,  it  is  undeniable  that  New  York  cultivates  high 
class  music  with  distinguished  success  and  enjoys  a series  of  concerts 

2* 


20  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Concerts. 


ranking  witli  the  hest  in  Europe.  The  concerts  of  the  PhilhctTmonic  Society 
(founded  1842)  are  given  every  3 or  4 weeks  during  the  season  (Nov.-April) 
in  the  Carnegie  Music  Hall  (p.  50^  conductor,  Emil  Paur)  on  Saturdays  at 
8.15  p.m. ; public  rehearsals  on  the  Fridays  before  the  concert  at  2 p.m. , 
at  reduced  prices.  Other  fashionable  subscription -concerts  are  given  in 
the  rooms  of  the  Waldorf-Astoria  Hotel  (p.  10).  Excellent  concerts  are  also 
given  by  the  Arion  Society  (in  the  club-house  in  Park  Avenue,  p.  48),  the 
LiedevTcranz  (58th  St.,  between  Park  and  Lexington  Avenues),  the  Beethoven 
Mdnnerchor.,  the  Sdngerbund.,  the  Mendelssohn  Glee  Club  (W.  40th  St.),  the 
Musical  Art  Society  (about  twice  yearly),  etc.  The  above  concerts  are 
mainly  attended  by  members  and  subscribers,  but  a limited  number  of 
single  tickets  are  obtainable  in  some  cases.  The  Mendelssohn  Hall,W . 40th  St., 
is  used  mainly  for  recitals.  Good  Sun.  evening  concerts  are  given  at  the 
Carnegie  Music  Hall  and  the  Metropolitan  Opera  House  (p.  18).  In  summer 
bands  play  at  frequent  intervals  in  Central  Park  (Sat.  & Sun.  afternoons), 
the  Battery.,  Tompkins  Square^  etc.  — For  details,  see  the  daily  newspapers. 

Exhibitions  of  Paintings.  Metropolitan  Museum.,  see  p.  54*,  Lenox 
Library.,  see  p.  46^  New  York  Historical  Society.,  see  p.  50;  Annual  Ex- 
hibition of  the  National  Academy  of  Design  (p.  51)  in  Jan.  at  the  Galleries 
of  the  Society  of  Fine  Arts,  215  W.  57th  St.,  between  Seventh  Ave.  and 
Broadway ; Society  of  American  Artists , at  the  same  place  in  March  & 
April:  American  Water  Colour  Society.,  at  the  American  Art  Galleries,  at 
the  corner  of  Madison  Square  and  23rd  St.,  pending  the  completion  of  the 
new  Academv  of  Design  (spring);  New  iork  Water  Colour  Club.,  at  the  Fine 
Arts  Society  Galleries  (Dec.).;  Architectural  League^  in  the  same  galleries 
(Feb.) ; Society  of  Landscape  Painters.,  generally  at  Knoedler's  Gallery,  355 
Fifth  Ave.  (April);  Ten  American  Painters.,  at  the  Durand -Ruel  Gallery, 
389  Fifth  Ave.  (April).  Loan  exhibitions  are  given  in  the  season  by  the 
Lotos,  Union  Leaguo,  Century,  and  Salmagundi  Clubs  (the  last  club  largely 
composed  of  professional  artists).  During  the  season  (Nov.-May)  so-called 
‘One  Man  Shows'  (exhibitions  of  individual  artists)  are  held  at  Knoedler  s, 
Duran d-Ruel's,  Noe's,  Claussens,  Tooth's,  Macbeth's  (all  in  Fifth  Ave.), 
and  other  prominent  art  dealers'.  Other  exhibitions  at  irregular  intervals 
are  given  bv  the  National  Sculpture  Society,  the  National  Arts  Club.,  etc.  Adm. 
to  the  annual  exhibitions  25-50  c.,  to  the  clubs  by  card,  to  the  dealers 
galleries  free.  — Among  the  finest  private  collections  are  those  of  Mrs. 
Wm.  Astor  (modern  French,  American,  and  German  pictures),  Mr.  Morris 
K.  Jesup,  Mr.  Wm.  Rockefeller  (old  Dutch  and  English  pictures),  Mr.  Ed. 
D Adams,  Mr.  H.  0.  Havemeyer  (nine  important  portraits  by  Rembrandt, 
fine  examples  of  F.  Hals,  P.  de  Hooch,  etc.),  Mr.  C.  T.  Per (p.  46;  three 
historical  pieces  by  Rembrandt ; good  examples  of  Hobbema , Jan  Steen, 
A.  van  Ostade,  G.  Dou,  Terburg,  Metsu,  F.  Hals;  fine  oriental  rugs),  Mr. 
Cyrus  J.  Lawrence,  Mr . George  Gould  (Rembrandt  s ‘Standard  Bearer  , etc.),  Mr. 
H P.  Whitney,  Mr.  John  Harsen  Rhoades,  Mr.  James  W.  Ellsworth.,  Mr.  George 
A.  Hearn  Mr.  Emerson  McMillan,  and  Senator  W.  A.  Clark.  Visitors  spe- 
cially interested  will  sometimes  be  admitted  to  these  on  previous  application 
by  letter,  enclosing  card.  Visitors  are  also  received  at  the  Studios  of  the 
leading  artists,  many  of  whom  have  their  regular  reception  days. 

Sport.  The  chief  Horse  Races  near  New  York  are  those  of  the 
Westchester  Racing  Association  at  Morris  Park;  the  Brooklyn  Jockey  Club  at 
Gravesend,  between  Brooklyn  and  Coney  Island;  the  Brighton  Beach 
Racing  Association  at  Brighton  Beach;  the  Coney  Island  Jockey  Club  at 
Sheepshead  Bay;  the  Queens  County  Jockey  Club  at  Aqueduct  (L.  I.); 
the  Metropolitan  Jockey  Club  at  Jamaica.  The  schedule  is  so  arranged  that 
there  is  racing  at  one  or  other  of  these  tracks  every  week-day  from 
15th  to  Nov.  15th  (see  daily  papers).  Adm.  to  grand  stand  $2;  to  field 
50-75  c — Trotting  Races  take  place  at  Empire  City  Park  and  Brighton 
Beach.  — Fox  Hunting  (with  a ‘drag'  or  carted  fox)  is  carried  on  in  Lrag 
Island  and  New  Jersey.  — The  chief  Yacht  Clubs  are  the  New  Xork  (2UUU 
members),  Seawanhaka  (1000  members),  Atlantic,  Larchmont,  etc.;  numerous 
regattas  are  held  in  the  harbour  and  Long  Island  Sound,  and  an  annual 
cruise,  with  racing,  is  made  to  Newport.  — Rowing  is  best  on  the  Harlem 


Sport. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  21 


River,  where  boats  may  be  hired  for  about  60  c.  an  hour.  There  are 

and  on  the  Brooklyn  and 
Staten  Island  shores  of  the  harbour.  — Canoeing  is  practised  all  round 
and  the  Brooklyn  Canoe  Clubs  have  their 
Cent^aTp^t  ^ “ DamNG.  The  fashionable  drives  are  through 

o and  along  Riverside  Drive,  where  many  handsome  equipages 
may  be  seen  on  fine  atternoons.  The  chief  resorts  of  the  owners^of  ‘fast 

Avenues,  to  the  N.  of  Central  Park, 

and  the  Speedway  (p.  64),  skirting  the  Harlem  River  to  the  H.  of  155th  St 
exclusively  for  fast  driving.  All  who  are  interested  in 
horses  should  try  to  se^e  the  scene  here.  The  Coaching  Club  parades  in 
Central  and  Riverside  Parks  at  the  opening  of  the  Morris  Park  track  in 
tae  first  week  of  May.  Coaching  parties  and  public  coaches  fseats  usuallv 
$ 5)  leave  the  Waldorf-Astoria  and  the  Holland  House  daily  in  April  May^ 
reached  via  N.  New  York  and  Westchester  County 
Par^s^' seen  and  enjoyed  in  Central  and  Riverside 
F?fth  pnJ  and  ring  in  58th  St.,  between 

Fifth  and  Madison  Aves.  — Motoring  is  very  popular  in  New  York,  the 
connection  with  it  being  the  Automobile  Club  of 
^ League  of  American  Automobilists , and  the 

Ametican  Automobile  Association.  — Ctcling.  Among  the  best-known  of  the 
innumerable  cycling  clubs  are  the  New  York  Bicycle  Club,  the  Hallem  Wh^eet 
of  Wheelmen,  and  the  Arion  (Brooklyn).  Wheels  may  be  hired 

along  the  Boulevard,  at  the  Ocean  Parkway  (see  Z 71),  and 
elsewhere.  Races  take  place  on  Sat.  in  summer  at  Manhattan  Beach  and 
at  the  Berkeley  Athletic  Track,  Morris  Dock.  — Fishing,  for  strined  bass 
the^nf P^^^^^ised  at  various  points  near  New^York  on 
the  coasts  of  Long  Island  and  New  Jersey.  Steamers  specially  built  for 
at  %a  all  York  every  morning  in  the  season  Ind  lie 

OcXr  ThI  ih-f/  ^r  papers).  - Baseball  is  played  from  April  to 
Uctober.  The  chief  professional  contests  take  place  in  the  grounds  of 

^57thSt.,  at  the  end  of  the  Sixth 
those  of  the  American  League  in  Broadway  between 
165th  and  WSth  Sts.  The  Brooklyn  National  League  Nine  plays^ at  grounds 
between  1st  and  3rd  Sts.  See  daily  papers.  - Picket.  Threhief  clubs 


, “ . kJOLi  LlCblljr  pcipt  

,(pe  en  i the  Manhattan,  aT  Prorpect 
p.  ^0)5  and  the  Brooklyn , at  Prospect 


A.  vvvi.v^  cvu  J_il  V IJLlg  O LU 

Park;  the  Paterson,  at  Paterson  fn 

HS?itr  ^hT^B^sTT.  The  0hiefeIuYare“The^“A;i„-r7rr:tNv^^^^^^^^ 

wp^Pts,  tne  West  Side,  at  Mornmgside  Heights,  the  King's  Countv  at 

Ate®  Br“ooklv„®‘-  Brooklyn,® and  the  M^ln,  Stuyfeknt 

fvL  V courts  are  attached  to  the  varioas  athletic  clubs 

and  there  are  hundreds  of  courts  in  Central  Park.  From  May  to  Oct’ 

strangers  m^  play  in  the  Tennis  Building,  41st  St.,  near  Seventh  Ave 

Park  rn  RYj  Practised  on  the  lakes  in  Central  Park,  Van  Cortlandt 
Frospect  Park,  at  the  St.  Nicholas  Skating  Rink  6'3th  St 
near  Columbus  Ave.  (best),  and  at  the  Ice  Skating  Palace  (public)  cor  of 

Lexington  Ave  and  E.  107th  St.  - Athletics.  New  York  at 

e corner  of  Sixth  Ave.  and  59th  St.,  with  grounds  and  countrv  cl’ub 
house  on  Travers  Island,  Long  Island  SouM;  New  fZk  XrllveZZin 
society),  Lexington  Ave.,  cor.  of  85th  St  • Columbia 
with  grounds  at  Williamsbridge ; St.  George,  207  E 16th  St  • 
g^iu^Ts  at  StTnavP  Christian  Association  Z with 

f 40)  The  (chief  club-house  at  W.  23rd  St, 

Union  has  its  office  at  241  Broadway.  — Football 
autumn  by  the  athletic  clubs  and  colleges.  Games  between 
fading  colleges  are  played  at  New  York  on  the  last  TW^rand  SaT  of 
golf-clubs  within  easy  reach  Tf  New  York  in 
/S't  s,  at  Yonkers  (p.  191) ; the  Ardsley,  at  Ardsley  (see  n 68)  • 

Morristown,  N.  J.;  the  Dyker  Meadow^  neat.f' Foil 
Elmsford;  the  Baltusrol,  near  ’Short  Hiils^ 

the  Twa^ec^oVn  * Z'Z'  ^tiinnecock  Hills  (p.  75); 

me  iuxedo  (p.  246),  the  Oakland,  Bayside,  L.  I.;  the  Westchester,  on  Long 


22  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Clubs. 


Island  Sound;  and  the  Marine  dt  Field,  Bath  Beach.  There  are  public 
links  in  Pelham  Bay,  Van  Cortlandt,  Sunset,  and  Forest  Parks.  The 
secretary  of  the  U.  S.  Golf  Association  is  Maturin  Ballou,  10  Wall  St.  — 
Shooting.  The  famous  rifle-ranges  at  Creedmoor,  Long  Island,  13V2  M. 
from  the  City  Hall,  now  belong  to  the  New  York  State  militia.  There  are 
several  gun  clubs  for  ‘trap’  and  pigeon-shooting  in  New  Jersey.  — Polo 
is  played  mainly  at  the  country  clubs  (see  below). 

Clubs.  The  chief  clubs,  to  which  strangers  can  obtain  access  only  when 
introduced  by  a member,  are  the  following : Manhattan  Club,  at  the  corner 
of  E.  26ih  St.  and  Madison  Square,  see  p.  43;  Union  League,  Fifth  Ave., 
cor  39th  St.,  see  p.  43  (1880  members) ; Union,  1 E.  51st  St.  (1500  members; 
social)-  University,  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  54th  St.,  for  college  graduates  (3000 
members);  Century  (p.  44),  7 W.  43rd  St.  (literary  and  artistic;  celebrated 
meetings  on  the  first  Sat.  of  each  month);  Metropolitan,  Fifth  Ave.,  cor. 
eOth  St.  (the  ‘Millionnaires’  Club’);  Lotos,  558  Fifth  Ave.;  Knickerbocker, 
Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  32nd  St.  (450  members  ; sporting  and  fashionable) ; Reform, 
233  Fifth  Ave.  (for  those  interested  in  political  reforms ; 1000  members) ; 
City  Club  19  W.  34th  St.  (for  those  interested  in  municipal  reform);  Merchants'' 
Club,  108  Leonard  St. ; New  York  (p.  43),  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  35th  St. ; St.  Nicholas 
Club  7 W.  44th  St.  (650  members ; confined  to  descendants  of  old  New  York 
families);  Republican,  54  W.  40th  St.  (political);  Democratic,  617  Fifth  Ave. 
(political);  Authors^  Club,  883  Seventh  Ave.  (Carnegie  Music  Hall);  Press 
Club,  34  W.  26th  St.;  The  Players,  16  Gramercy  ^ark,  with  interesting 
pictures  and  relics  and  the  rooms  once  occupied  by  Edwin  Booth  (183d-18J3j, 
maintained  as  they  were  left  at  his  death  ; Bar  Association,  42  W.  44th  St. ; 
Lawyers"'  Club.  120  Broadway;  Qrolier  Club,  29  E.  32nd  St.;  Calumet  Club, 
Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  29th  St.;  German  Club  (Deutscher  Verein;  p.  45),  59th  St., 
facino-  Central  Park;  Progress  Club,  Central  Park  West,  cor.  88th  St. 
(Hebrew);  Harmonic,  43  W.  42nd  St.  (Hebrew);  Arion  (p.  48),  Park  Ave., 
cor.  59th  St.  (German  and  musical) ; Freundschaft  (p.  48),  Park  Ave.,  cor. 
72nd  St  (German);  Cercle  Frangais,  24  W.  26th  St.;  Aldine  Association, 
Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  18th  St.  (Constable  Building);  Downtown  Association, 
60  Pine  St.  (these  two  lunching  clubs);  Harvard,  27  W.  44th  St. ; FaZc,  30 W. 
44th  St. ; Columbia  University  Club,  15  E.  26th  St. ; National  Arts  Club,  413  W. 
23rd  St.,  with  quaint  restaurant  in  the  style  of  a Dutch  kitchen  ; P^mbs  Club, 
70  W.  36th  St.;  Catholic,  120  Central  Park  South ; Colonial,  127  W.  72nd  St. ; 
United  Service  (Army  & Navy),  16  W.  31st  St.;  Barnard  Club,  883  Seventh 
Ave.  (for  men  and  women);  Eclectic,  a club  for  women  (iec.,  65  Cental 
Park  West);  Sorosis,  another  women’s  club,  meeting  monthly  at  the 
Waldorf-Astoria;  Women''s  University  Club,  13  E.  24th  St.  (receptions  on 
Sat.);  Women'‘s  Municipal  League  (Sec.,  262  Madison  Ave.),  notable  for  Hs 
share  in  recent  municipal  reform.  — Among  the  chief  Country  Clubs 
near  New  York  are  the  Meadowbrook,  Hempstead,  L.  I.  (p.  74);  Rockaway, 
Bockaway,  L.  I.  (p.  74);  Westchester,  at  Westchester ; and  Richmond,  Staten 
Island  (p.  67). 


Shops,  Libraries.  Baths.  Churches.  Streets.  Collections. 

Shops  (’-Stores").  Many  of  the  New  York  shops  are  very  large  and 
handsome,  easily  bearing  comparison  with  those  of  Europe.  The  prices, 
however,  are,  as  a rule,  considerably  higher.  The  chief  shopping  resorts 
are  Broadway,  from  8th  to  34th  St.;  Fifth  Ave.,  from  14th  to  42nd  St.; 
Twenty-Third  St.,  between  Fifth  and  Sixth  Ave. ; Fourteenth  St.,  between 
Broadway  and  Sixth  Ave. ; and  Sixth  Avenue,  from  12th  to  23rd  St.  (the 
last  two  localities  somewhat  cheaper  than  the  others).  An  evening  visit  to 
Grand  St.,  E.  of  the  Bowery  (p.  38),  will  show  the  shopping  of  the  ten- 
ement-districts in  full  swing.  A characteristic  feature  is  formed  by  the 
large  ‘Dry  Goods’  stores,  huge  establishments  in  the  style  of  the  Bon 
Marche  in  Paris,  containing  almost  everything  necessary  ^r  ^ complete 
outfit.  Among  these  may  be  mentioned  Arnold,  Constable,  Co.,  881  Broad- 
way, cor.  19th  St. ; Lord  & Taylor,  901  Broadway;  Altman,  295  Sixth  Ave. ; 
John  Wanamaker,  Broadway,  cor.  10th  St. ; Macy,  cor.  of  St.  and 

]proadway;  Stern,  32  W.  23rd  St.;  McCreery , 23rd  St.,  near  Fifth  Ave.; 


Libraries.  NEW  YORK.  2.  Route.  23 


Daniell.  761  Broadway  5 O'Neill^  327  Sixtli  Ave.  *,  Siegel-Cooper  Co.^  296  Sixth 
Ave. ; Le  BoutilUer  Brothers^  W.  23rd  St. 

Booksellers.  Charles  Scribner'^s  Sons.,  155  Fifth  Ave.,  one  of  the  largest 
and  handsomest  hook-shops  in  the  world;  O.  P.  Puinarrh's  Sons.,  27  W. 
23rd  St.;  Dodd,  Mead,  & Co.,  372  Fifth  Ave.;  E.  P.  Dutton  Co.,  31  W. 
23rd  St.;  Brentano,  Union  Sq.,  between  15th  and  16th  Sts.;  Fleming  H. 
Revell  Co..  156  Fifth  Ave.;  E.  S.  Qorham,  285  Fourth  Ave.;  Lemcke  & 
Buechner,  812  Broadway  (German  books);  Dyrsen  & Pfeiffer  (late  Christern), 
429  Fifth  Ave.  (French  and  other  foreign  books);  Stechert,  9 E.  16th  sL 
(German) ; Steiger,  25  Park  Place  (German).  — Second-hand  Booksellers  : 
Ammon  Mackel  (late  Leggatt).  81  Chambers  St. ; Harper,  14  W.  22nd  St. ; 
Smith,  50  New  St.;  Clark,  174  Fulton  St.;  Mendoza,  17  Ann  St.;  Richmond, 
326  Fifth  Ave.;  Wright,  6 E.  42nd  St.;  Bonaventure,  6 W.  33rd  St. 

Bankers,  Brown  Brothers  & Co.,  59  Wall  St.;  J.  Kennedy  Tod<kCo.,  45 
Wall  St.;  Knauth,  Nachod,  & Kuhne,  13  William  St.;  J.  P.  Morgan  Co., 
3 Broad  St.;  hazard  Frlres,  10  Wall  St.;  J.  & W.  Seligman  & Co.,  21  Broad 
St.;  A.  Belmont  & Co.,  23  Nassau  St. ; Bank  of  Montreal,  59  Wall  St.;  Bank 
of  British  North  America,  52  Wall  St., 

Baths.  Hot  and  cold  baths  may  be  obtained  at  all  the  hotels  (25  c.- 
75  c.)  and  larp  barbers’  shops  (25  c.).  Turkish  and  Russian  baths  ($  V2-IV2) 
may  be  obtained  at  the  following:  Hoffman  House  (p.  40);  Capes  & Ryan, 
18  Lafayette  Place;  Hoefer  (Arision),  cor.  Broadway  and  55th  St. ; Everard, 
30  W.  28th  St. ; Produce  Exchange.  8 Broadway ; Haynes,  41  W.  26th  St. ; 
Women's  Club,  9 East  46th  St.;  Easton,  99  Nassau  St. ; Mayer,  1944  Madison 
Ave. ; Riverside  Baths,  259  W.  69th  St.  — Salt  Water  Swimming  Baths,  at  the 
Battery  (25  c.,  warm  30  c.).  There  are  also  several  Free  Public  Baths,  both 
on  the  Hudson  and  the  East  River,  visited  annually  by  5-6  million  bathers 
(June-Sept.).  The  People's  Baths,  9 Centre  Market  Place,  are  also  free 
(separate  rooms  5 c.). 

Libraries  and  Reading  Rooms.  Greater  New  York  contains  about 
350  more  or  less  public  libraries.  New  York  Public  Library  (Astor,  Lenox, 
& Tilden  Foundations),  see  p.  43;  Astor  Library,  see  p.  38  (9  to  6);  Mer- 
cantile Library  (p.  38),  on  introduction  by  a member  (8-9);  Lenox  Library, 
see  p.  46  (9-6);  Cooper  Institute  Reading  Room  (see  p.  38),  open  free,  8 a.m. 
to  10  p.m.;  Mechanics'  Institute  Library,  16-24  W.  44th  St.  (100,000  vols.; 
open  8-8);  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Reading  Ptooms,  free,  at  317  W.  57th  St.,  361  Madison 
Ave.,  5 W.  125th  St.,  etc.  (8-10);  Young  Women's  Christian  Association,  7 E. 
15th  St.  (9-9);  New  York  Free  Circulating  Library,  226  W.  42ad  St.  and 
49  Bond  St.,  with  several  branches  (9-9) ; New  York  Society  Library,  109  Uni- 
versity Place,  founded  in  1754  (ICO, COO  vols.;  9-6,  reading-room  9-9;  for 
members  only) ; Historical  Society  (p.  60),  for  strangers  on  the  introduction 
of  a membei  (9-6)  ; Mott  Memorial  Library  (medical),  64  Madison  Ave.  (10-5); 
New  York  Hospital  Library,  6 W.  16th  St.  (medical;  10-5);  Law  Institute 
Library,  Post  Office,  Rooms  116-122,  4th  floor  (legal ; 60,000  vols. ; 9-10) ; 
American  Institute  Library,  19  W.  44th  St.  (agricultural  and  industrial; 
9-6);  Geographical  Society.  15  W.  8lst  St.;  College  Settlement  Association, 
95  Rivington  St.  (Wed.,  3.30-5  and  7.30-9;  Sat.,  10-12).  The  Booklovers 
Library  (944  Broadw*ay)  delivers  books  at  the  houses  of  subscribers,  in  the 
style  of  Mudie’s  Library,  London  (comp.  p.  263).  The  Tabard  Inn  Library 
(under  the  same  management),  has  exchange-stations  all  over  New  York.  — 
There  are  also  good  libraries  at  Columbia  University  (p.  62),  the  University 
of  New  York,  and  some  of  the  clubs.  — Among  the  finest  Private  Libraries 
are  those  of  Robert  Hoe,  Dwight  E.  Church,  H.  W.  Poor,  G.  W.  Vanderbilt, 
F.  R.  Halsey,  C.  C.  Kalbflcisch,  J.  W.  Ellsworth,  M.  C.  D.  Borden,  Beverly 
Chew,  E.  B.  Holden,  J.  P.  Morgan,  and  H.  B.  Smith. 

Newspapers.  The  periodical  publications  of  New  York  embrace  about 
^ daily  papers,  220  weekly  papers  and  periodicals,  and  390  monthly 
journals  and  magazines.  Among  the  chief  morning  papers  are  the  Herald 
(3  c.;  Independent),  the  Times  (Ic. ; Independent),  the  Tribune  (3  c.;  Re- 
publican), the  World  (1  c. ; Independent  Democratic),  the  Sun  (2  c.;  Re- 
publican), the  American  (1  c. ; Democratic),  the  Press  (1  c. ; Repub.  and  Pro- 
tectionist), and  the  German  Staatszeitung  (3  c. ; Independent).  The  chief 
evening  papers  are  the  Evening  Post  (3  c.;  an  excellent  Independent  and 


24  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Churches. 


Free  Trade  organ),  the  Mail  (formerly  Mail  <k  Express;  Ic. ; Repub.),  the 
evening  editions  of  the  Sun  and  World  (Ic.  each),  the  Telegram  (the  evening 
edition  of  the  Herald  ^ Ic.),  the  Journal  (the  evening  edition  of  the  American; 

1 c.),  and  the  Globe  (formerly  Commercial  Advertiser ; Ic. ; Repuh.).  Most  of 
the  daily  papers  publish  Sunday  editions  ; price  5 c.  Among  the  weeklies  are 
the  Nation^  a high-class  political  and  literary  journal  (10  c.);  the  Outlook 
(10  c.);  the  Independent  (10  c.) ; Town  & Country  (established  by  N.  P.  Willis  as 
The  Home  Journal);  Collier's  Weekly.^  Harper's  Weekly.,  and  other  illustrated 
papers;  Life.,  Puck.,  Judge.,  and  other  comic  journals ; the  Scottish  American 
Journal  (7  c.) ; and  numerous  technical  and  professional  journals.  The  lead- 
ing monthly  magazines  include  the  Century.,  Scribner's,  Harper's,  the  North 
American  Review,  the  Popular  Science  Monthly,  McClure's,  Munsey's,  Outing, 
Review  of  Reviews,  The  World's  Work,  Harper  s Bazaar  (for  ladies),  the  Ladies' 
Home  Journal,  St.  Nicholas  (for  children),  the  Critic,  the  Bookman,  and  the 
Cosmopolitan.  The  Forum  is  a good  quarterly. 

Churches.  There  are  in  all  about  560  churches  in  New  York,  of  which 
one-fifth  are  Roman  Catholic.  The  services  in  the  Protestant  churches 
usually  begin  at  11  a.m.  and  8 p.m.  The  Sat.  papers  publish  a list  of  the 
preachers  for  Sunday,  and  information  is  freely  given  at  the  hotels,  at 
the  City  Mission,  Fourth  Ave.,  cor.  22nd  St.,  or  at  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  The  fol- 
lowing list  mentions  a few  of  the  chief  congregations. 

Baptist.  Calvary  Church,  W.  57th  St.,  between  Sixth  and  Seventh  Ave. 
(Rev.  Dr.  McArthur);  Fifth  Avenue,  W.  46th  St.,  near  Fifth  Ave.  (Rev. 
Dr.  Johnston);  Judson  Memorial,  Washington  Sq.  (see  p.  42);  Madison 
Avenue,  Madison  Avenue,  cor.  of  31st  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  Lorimer). 

Christian  Science.  First  Church  of  Christ,  Scientist,  Central  Park  West, 
cor.  of  96th  St.  (opened  in  1904). 

Congregational.  Broadway  Tabernacle,  119  W.  40th  St.,  pending  com- 
pletion of  new  church  at  corner  of  Broadway  and  56th  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  Jeffer- 
son); Pilgrim,  Madison  Ave.,  cor.  121st  St.  (Rev.  Frank  E.  Rainsdell). 

Dutch  Reformed.  Marble  Collegiate,  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  48th  St.  (Rev. 
Dr.  SageMackay;  good  music,  vocal  quartette);  Madison  Avenue,  Madison 
Ave.,  cor.  57th  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  Kittredge). 

Friends  or  Quakers.  Meeting  Houses,  E.  15th  St.,  cor.  Rutherford 
Place,  and  144  E.  20th  St.  (Orthodox). 

Lutheran.  Gustavus  Adolphus  Swedish  Evangelical,  150  E.  22nd  St. 
(Rev.  Mr.  Stolpe);  St.  James,  870  Madison  Ave.  (Rev.  Dr.  Remensnyder) ; 
St.  Peter's  German  Evangelical,  474  Lexington  Ave.  (Rev.  Dr.  Moldehnke). 

Methodist  Episcopal.  Calvary,  Seventh  Ave.,  cor.  129th  St.  (Rev. 
Willis  P.  Odell);  Cornell  Memorial,  E.  76th  St.  (Rev.  Chas.  P.  Tinker); 
Madison  Avenue,  659  Madison  Ave.  (Rev.  Dr.  Macmullen) ; St.  Andrew,  W. 
76th  St.  (Rev.  J.  O.  Willson);  St,  James,  Madison  Ave.  (Rev.  Allan  McRossie). 

Presbyterian.  Brick  Church,  410  Fifth  Ave.  (Rev.  Dr.  Richards)  ; Fifth 
Avenue,  cor.  55th  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  Ross  Stevenson) ; First,  54  Fifth  Ave.  (Rev. 
Dr.  Duffield);  Fourth  Avenue,  286  Fourth  Ave.  (Rev.  Walter  D.  Buchanan); 
Harlem,  43  E.  125th  St.  (Rev.  Daniel  Russell);  Madison  Square,  506  Madison 
Ave.  (Rev.  Dr.  Parkhurst);  University  Place,  cor.  E.  10th  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  George 
Alexander). 

Protestant  Episcopal.  Cathedral,  see  P*  61;  All  Souls,  Madison  Ave., 
cor.  66th  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  McConnell);  Calvary,  273  Fourth  Ave.  (Rev.  J.  L. 
Parks);  Grace  Church,  800  Broadway  (Rev.  Dr.  Huntington;  see  p.  39); 
Heavenly  Rest,  551  Fifth  Ave.  (Rev.  Dr.  Morgan;  see  p.  44);  St.  Bartholomew, 
348  Madison  Ave.  (Rev.  Dr.  Leighton  Parks);  St.  George,  7 Rutherford  Place 
(Rev.  Dr.  Rainsford ; see  p.  50) ; St.  Michael,  Amsterdam  Ave.  (Rev.  Dr.  Peters ; 
line  slained-glass  v/indow  by  Tiffany);  St.  Thomas,  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  W. 
53rd  St.  (Rev.  E.  M.  Stires);  Trinity,  Broadway,  at  the  corner  of  Rector 
St.  (Rev.  Dr.  Morgan  Dix;  comp.  p.  33);  Ascension,  36  Fifth  Ave.  (Rev. 
Percy  S.  Grant);  St.  Mary  the  Virgin,  139  W.  46th  St.  (a  high  church, 
with  an  elaborate  musical  ritual  and  orchestra). 

Roman  Catholic.  St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  Fifth  Ave.  (see  p.  44) ; All 
Saints,  Madison  Ave.,  cor.  129th  St.;  St.  Francis  Xavier,  36  W.  16th  St.; 
St.  Stephen,  149  E.  28th  St.;  St.  Paul  the  Apostle,  Columbus  (Ninth)  Ave., 


Streets, 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  25 


^r.  St.  Gabriel^  312  E.  37tli  St. ; St.  Agnes,  143  E.  43rd  St. : Sacred 

Heart,  61st  St.;  St.  Joseph,  69  Sixth  Ave.  There  are  several  Ger- 

man,  French,  Italian,  and  Polish  R.  C.  Churches.  Numerous  services. 
bWEDENBOKGIAN  Or  NeW  JERUSALEM  ChURCH  at  114  E.  35th  St. 
Synagogues.  Beth-El,  Fifth  Ave.,  cor.  76th  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  Kohlerl  • 
SAaarat  Tephxla,  W.  82nd  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  de  Mendes) ; Temple  Emanu-El, 
Fifth  cor.  43rd  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  Gottheil);  Rodof  Sholom . Lexington 

WpJt  ^^cssmann) ; Shearith  Israel,  Central  Ark 

West,  cor.  70th  St.  (Rev.  H.  P.  Mendes).  , ^ ax 

Fourth  Avenue,  cor.  20th  St.  (Rev.  T.  R.  Slicer)* 
Messiah,  61 E.  34th  St.  (Rev.  Dr.  Robert  Colly er  and  Rev.  Dr.  Minot  J.  Sava^^e)’ 

76th  SMEev“D;.  F?anf 0 ' 

ar  cJ'orates  for  Coloured  Persons  are  St.  Benedict  the 

Moor  s in.  C.),  Eighth  Ave.,  cor  of  W.  53rd  St.,  and  the  Methodist  Epis- 
Bleecker  St.)  and  Bethel  f239  W.  26th  St.). 

The  headquarters  of  the  Salvation  Army  are  at  120  W.  14th  St. 

G Society  for  Ethical  Culture  (Dr.  Felix  Adler)  meets  in  Carnegie  Hall 

Seventh  Ave.,  cor.  of  57th  St.  ^ ’ 

Department  has  its  headquarters  at  157  E. 
b7th  St.  The  force,  which  consists  of  upwards  of  2700  men,  with  136  engine 
companies  (including  six  fire-hoats)  and  44  hook  and  ladder  companies, 
IS  under  the  supervision  of  a Fire  Commissioner,  with  a Deputy  Com- 
??  f ^ (265  Jay  St.).  Its  annual  cost  is  about  $ 5,000,000 

(1,000, 000^.),  and  it  has  to  deal  yearly  with  8500-9000  fires.  The  service  and 
excellent,  and  the  engine-houses  and  fire-boats  (headquarters 
Bofrd^o/Fi^nHp^'^®  interesting.  The  Insurance  Patrol,  maintained  by  the 
Board  of  Fire  Underwriters,  co-operates  with  the  firemen  in  extinguishing  fire 
besides  devoting  itself  to  the  special  work  of  rescuing  and  guarding  property.’ 
Streets.  Above  13th  St.  the  streets  of  New  York  are  laid  out  verv 
each  other  at  right  angles,  the  chief  exception  being 
from  crosses  the  island  diagonallf 

from  S S.E.  to  N.N  W.  The  streets  in  the  lower  part  of  the  island  are 
colonial  worthies.  Higher  up  those  running  across 
numbered  consecutively  from  1 up  to  225, 
Wo  and  S.  are  named  Avenues  and  numbered  from 

Av,*  the  widest  part  of  the  island,  to  the  E.  of  First  Avenue  are 

the  additional  short  avenues  A,  B,  C and  D,  while  hiffher  un  Rp^wapti 
Third  and  Fourth  and  between  Fourth  and  Fifth  Avenues  respectively 
are  Lexington  Avenue  and  Madison  Avenue.  To  the  N of  59th  St  the  con 
W’  lltE  Avenuee  are  known  vespeittveira; 

Ave.,  Amsterdam  Ave.,  and  West  End  Ave. 
Tlie  numbers  m the  avenues  begin  at  the  S.  and  run  towards  the  N 

as  “ and  W wtth"'^!^  “»»s-street3  are  known 

as  B and  W.  with  reference  to  their  position  to  Fifth  Ave.,  and  their 
numbers  begin  at  this  avenue  and  run  E.  and  W.  A new  hundred  is 
begun  at  ^fch  avenue.  The  avenues  are  usually  100  ft.  wide,  and  th“ 
cross  streets  60-100  ft.  The  names  of  the  streets  are  generally  given  on 
foreign  origin  are  usually  anglicized  in 
oftP^  Desbrosses  St.,  pron.  Dess-bross-es  St.).  New  Yorkers 

street  after  the  name  of  a street;  thus  one  will  give 

Elevated^ R affrna 67th’;  while  the  conductor  of  the 
Llevated  Railroad  will  announce  a station  as  ‘Grand’  or  ‘23rd.’ 

Police  Stations.  The  Central  Police  Station  and  Office  of  the  Commi<i~ 
Sed'-^in^o^fiV^  300  Mulberry  St.,  and  the  city  of  G^eatef New ^oTis 

consisfs  of  altourrem  "“''i  ?*»«<>”•  The  police  force 

»hmVt  ar,nn  ' 7800  patrolmen,  ‘roundsmen’,  and  officers,  of  whom 
belong  to  Manuattan  or  New  York  proper.  The  ‘Broadwav 
Squad  consists  of  specially  fine-looking  men.  Many  policemen  inlhe 
uptown  and  outlying  districts  are  mountid  on  horses  or  bicyckl 

the  ‘at  !i  °J  recent  guidebooks  to  New  York  are 

the  Standard  Guide  to  New  York’  (26  c,)  and  ‘Band  & McNally’s  Handy 


26  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Collections. 


Guide  to  New  York\  by  Ernest  IngersoU  (25  c.).  Appletons'  ‘Dictionary  of 
New  York’  (25  c.)  is  in  the  style  of  Dickens'  ‘Dictionary  of  London'.  Moses 
Kina's  ‘Views  of  New  York  City'  illustrates  400  of  the  chief  points  of 
interest  (1903;  in  paper  50  c.,  in  cloth  $1).  Theodore  Roosevelt's  ‘New 
York'*  in  the  Historic  Town  Series  ($  1.25),  is  an  extremely  interesting 
little  Volume.  See  also  ‘Literary  New  York',  by  Ghas.  Hemstreet  (1904). 
The  Brooklyn  Daily  Eagle  Almanack  is  packed  with  useful  information  about 
Greater  New  York.  Addresses  can  be  found  in  Trow' s Directory,  which 
may  be  consulted  at  any  drug-store  or  hotel-office. 

British  Consulate,  17  State  St.  (PI.  A,  3);  Consul  General,  Sir  Percy 
Sanderson,  C.  M.  G. 

Collections.  The  following  is  a list  of  the  principal  Exhibitions,  Col- 
lections, etc.,  with  the  hours  at  which  they  are  open. 

Aquarium,  Castle  Garden  (p.  30),  open  free,  daily,  10*4  (on  Mom  & Thurs.,  1-1). 
Assay  Office,  United  States  (p.  32),  open  daily,  10-2  (Sat.  10-12) ; free. 
Botanical  Garden  (p.  66),  daily,  free. 

City  Hall  (p.  34),  daily,  10-4;  free.  ^ ^ 

Custom  House,  United  States  (p.  32;  comp,  p ol),  daily,  10-2 ; free. 

Geological  Museum  at  Columbia  University  (p.  62),  daily,  10-4;  free. 

Grant's  Tomb  (p.  63),  daily,  till  dusk;  free.  ^ 

Libraries.  Astor  (p.  38),  daily,  free;  Mercantile  (p.  38),  daily,  ivtc-,  -Lenox 
(p.  46),  daily,  free,  9-6,  upper  floor  9-5  (closed  on  Sun.  & holidays); 
Columbia  (p.''62),  daily,  8-10,  free.  , . ^ ^ 

Madison  Square  Garden  (pp.  19,  49).  Visitors  admitted  to  the  tower  ( View), 

* Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  (p.  54),  daily,  10  to  dusk;  on  Mon.  and 
Frid.  25c.,  at  other  times  tree;  also  on  Mon.  and  Fnd.  «-lU  p.m., 
and  on  Sun.  afternoon.  .1  * o 

Museum  for  the  Arts  of  Decoration,  C.oper  Union  (p.  38),  daily,  except  Sun. 

and  Mon.,  9.30-5;  free.  « . m ok 

Natural  History,  Museum  of  (p.  52),  daily,  9-5;  Mon.  & Tues.  25  c.,  other 

New^l^ork^Hikorical  Society  (p.  50) ; daily,  on  introduction  by  a member 

(closed  in  Aug.).  ^ -kt  v i 

Picture  Galleries.  See  Metropolitan  Museum,  Lenox  Library,  and  New  York 

Historical  Society.  , ^ -x.  v i « 

Produce  Exchange  (p.  31) ; daily ; visitors  admitted  to  the  balcony ; bus- 
iness-hours, 9-4;  free. 

*^St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  (p.  44);  all  day;  frequent  services. 

Stock  Exchange  (p.  33);  business  - hours , 10-3;  visitors  admitted  to  the 
gallery  by  ticket  signed  by  a member;  free. 

Sub-Treasury  of  the  United  States  (p.  32);  daily,  lO-o;  free  (vamts  shown 
to  visitors  introduced  to  the  Assistant  Treasurer). 

^Trinity  Church  (p.  33);  open  all  day.  ^ q qo  a 

World  Office  (p.  35);  visitors  admitted  to  the  Dome  ( View),  o.oO-b;  0 c. 
Zoological  Garden  (p.  66),  daily;  free-  ^ 

Principal  Attractions.  ^'Metropolitan  Art  Museum  (p.  54);  -Aatural 
History  Museum  (p.  52);  '^St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  (p- i ''Lenox  library 
(n.  46);  'Walk  or  drive  in  Broadway  (p.  31)  and  Fifth  Avenue  (p.  42). 
-Gentrdl  Park  (p.  51);  -Brooklyn  Suspension  Bridge  (p.  36); 

Bridge  (p.  37);  -Riverside  Drive  (p.  62);  Grant's  Tomb  (P-  63)’ 

Sailors  Monument  (p.  63)’;  -Columbia  University  Bridge  (p.  64)  ; 

Washington  Bridge  (p.  65);  Stock  Exchange  {p.  33);  -Trinity  Church  {p  33  ; 
Tiffany  land  Vanderbilt  Houses  (pp.  49,  45);  ^f^ce  Church  (p.  39) ; the 
Appellate  Court  (p.  40);  the  Flat-iron  Building  Zoological  Ga^^^^ 

(p  66);  the  Speedway  (p.  64);  -Harbour  (p.  28);  Ninth  Avenue  Elevated 
Lilroad  at  110th  St.  (p.  13);  Views  from  the 

the  World  Office  (p.  35),  the  Park  Row  Building  (p.  35),  tlie  Equitable 
Building  (p.  34),  the  Commercial  Cable  Building Jfp.  34),  Xhe,  New  York  Life 
Building  (p.  38),  the  Tract  Society  Building  (p.  35),  Statue  of  Liberty  (p_3), 
or  Madison  Square  Garden  (p.  49).  — In  summer  the  visitor  should  take  a trip 
in  the  ‘Seeing  New  York'  yacht  (p.  17)  or  in  one  of  the  Starin  Excursion 


Population. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  27 


SteciTnei’s.)  which  start  at  the  foot  of  Cortlandt  St.,  almost  hourly,  and  proceed 
round  the  Battery,  up  the  E.  River,  and  through  Hell  Gate  and  Long  Island 
Sound  to  Glen  Island  (p.  88),  affording  a good  idea  of  the  configuration  ofMan- 
hattan  Island  and  of  the  traffic  in  the  harbour  and  rivers  (return-fare  AO  c.). 

Greater  New  York,  constituted  by  charter  in  1897,  is  the  largest 
and  wealthiest  city  of  the  New  World,  and  inferior  in  population,  as 
also  in  commercial  and  financial  importance,  to  London  alone  among 
the  cities  of  the  globe.  It  is  situated  on  New  York  Bay,  in  40®  42' 
43"  N.  lat.  and  74®  0'3"  W.  long.  It  consists  of  the  boroughs  of 
Manhattan,  The  Bronx,  Brooklyn,  Queens,  and  Richmond,  which 
have  a joint  area  of  320  sq.  M.  and  an  aggregate  population  flOOOj 
of  3,437,400,  of  whom  1,270,080  (37  per  cent)  were  foreign-born. 
Its  extreme  lengtli  (N.  and  S.)  is  35  M.,  its  extreme  width  19  M 
Manhattan  or  New  York  proper,  with  1,850,930  inhab.,  consists 
mainly  of  Manhattan  Island,  a long  and  narrow  tongue  of  land 
bounded  by  the  Hudson  or  North  River  on  the  W.  and  the  East 
River  (part  of  Long  Island  Sound)  on  the  E.,  and  separated  from 
the  mainland  on  the  N.  and  N.E.  by  the  narrow  Harlem  River  and 
Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek;  but  also  includes  several  small  islands  in 
New  York  Bay  and  the  E.  River.  Manhattan  Island  is  13  M.  long, 
and  varies  in  width  from  about  M.  (at  its  extremities)  to 

272  M.,  the  general  width  being  about  13/4-2  M.  It  is  very  rocky, 
the  chief  formations  being  gneiss  and  limestone ; and  except  in 
the  S.  portion,  which  is  covered  with  deep  alluvial  deposits,  a 
great  amount  of  blasting  was  necessary  to  prepare  sites  for  houses 
and  streets.  For  about  half  of  its  length  from  the  S.  it  slopes  on 
each  side  from  a central  ridge,  and  at  the  upper  end  the  ground 
rises  precipitously  from  the  Hudson  to  a height  of  240  ft.  (Washing- 
ton Heights),  descending  rapidly  on  the  E.  side  to  the  Harlem 
Flats.  The  Borough  of  the  Bronx  (200,507  inhab.)  comprises  a 
portion  of  the  mainland  beyond  the  Harlem  River,  extending  on 
the  N.  to  a point  about  5 M.  beyond  the  limits  of  the  map  at  p.  66, 
and  also  several  small  islands  in  the  East  River  and  Long  Island 
Sound.  Manhattan  and  The  Bronx  together  form  what  has  hitherto 
been  known,  and  is  still  known  in  ordinary  parlance,  as  the  City 
of  New  York.  This,  except  when  otherwise  indicated,  will  be  the 
meaning  of  ‘New  York’  in  the  following  pages.  The  Borough  of 
Hroo%n  (1,166,582  inhab.),  hitherto  an  independent  city,  is  de- 
scribed in  R.  3.  The  Borough  of  Queens  (152,999  inhab.)  comprises 
part  of  Queens  County  on  Long  Island,  including  Flushing  (p.  75) 
part  of  Hempstead,  Jamaica,  Long  Island  City  (p.  73),  and  New- 
boundary  is  IV2-2V2  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  map  at 
p.  66.  I he  Borough  of  Richmond  (67,021  inhab.)  is  conterminous 
with  Staten  Island  (p.  67). 

population  of  IJew  York  in  1890,  according  to  the  government 
to  1,515,301;  that  of  the  various  districts  nowconstitut- 
onlv  about  2,500,000.  In  1699  New  York  contained 

only  about  6000  inhab.  and  in  1776  about  22,000  (comp.  p.  29) ; and  at  the 
first  United  States  census  (1790)  it  had  33,131.  In  1800  the  population  was 


28  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Harbour. 


ui  ±o  per  XKJUKJ.  , 1-1 

Greater  New  York  is  governed  by  a Mayor  and  a Manicipal  Assembly 
gistinff  of  two  chambers.  At  the  head  of  each  of  the  separate  boroughs 


paved),  7000  acres  of  parks  and  open  spaces,  loou  m.  oi  sewers,  x«. 
of  tramways,  and  66  M.  of  elevated  railways.  A site  on  lower  Broadway 
has  brought  as  much  as  $ 270  (54?.)  per  square  foot,  and  some  sites  are 
held  at  a still  higher  rate. 

The  lower  and  older  part  of  New  York  is  irregularly  laid  out,  and 
many  of  the  streets  are  narrow  and  winding.  The  old  buildings, 
however,  have  been  almost  entirely  replaced  by  huge  new  piles  of 
offices,  banks,  and  warehouses.  This  part  of  the  city  is  entirely 
given  up  to  business  and  is  the  chief  seat  of  its  vast  commercial 
enterprise  and  wealth.  Above  13th  St.  New  York  is  laid  out  with 
great  regularity  (arrangement  of  the  streets,  see  p.  25),  but  the 
precipitous  banks  of  the  Hudson  at  the  N.  end  of  the  island  (comp, 
p.  64)  have  necessitated  some  deviation  from  chessboard  regularity 
in  that  district.  Nearly  the  whole  of  Manhattan  Island,  as  far  as 
155th  St.,  is  now  covered  with  streets  and  buildings,  but  much  of 
the  narrow  part  of  the  island  beyond  that  point  and  a still  larger 
proportion  of  The  Bronx  (p.  65)  have  not  yet  been  built  over.  The 
names  of  many  of  the  villages  absorbed  by  the  growth  of  the  city 
still  cling  to  the  districts  here  (Manhattanville,  Harlem,  W ashington 
Heights,  Morrisania,  etc.).  In  proportion  to  its  size  New  York  is, 
perhaps,  somewhat  poorly  furnished  with  open  spaces,  but  Central 
Park  (p.  51)  is  one  of  the  finest  parks  in  the  world,  and  ample 
open  spaces  have  been  reserved  beyond  the  Harlem  River  (comp, 
p.  65).  The  handsomest  streets  and  residences  are  generally  near 
the  centre  of  the  island,  the  most  fashionable  quarters  being  Fifth 
Avenue,  Madison  Avenue , and  the  portions  of  the  cross-streets 
contiguous  to  these  thoroughfares.  The  islands  in  the  harbour  be- 
long to  the  TJ.  S.  Government,  while  those  in  the  E.  River  are  occu- 
pied by  charitable  and  correctional  institutions  belonging  to  the 
city.  New  York  is  connected  with  Brooklyn  by  two  fine  bridges 
(p.  36,  37),  and  two  others  are  building;  various  schemes  for  tun- 
nelling the  Hudson  are  now  also  in  progress  or  in  contemplation. 
Several  bridges  cross  the  Harlem  River. 

*New  York  Harbour  (comp.  p.  3)  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
world , affording  ample  accommodation  and  depth  of  water  for  the 
largest  vessels.  The  Upper  Bay  or  New  York  Harbour  Proper, 


History. 


NEW  YORK. 


Route.  29 


8M.  long  and  4-5  M.  wide,  is  completely  landlocked  and  contains 
several  islands.  It  communicates  through  the  Narrows  fn.  21 
with  Lower  New  York  Bay , which  is  protected  from  the  ocean  by 
a bar  running  N.  from  Sandy  Hook  in  New  Jersey  (18 M.  from  the 
Battery)  towards  Long  Island.  The  bar  is  crossed  by  two  channels 
admitting  vessels  of  25-30  ft.  draught.  At  the  Battery  the  har- 
bour divides  into  two  branches:  the  Hudson  or  North  River  to  the 
left  and  the  East  River  to  the  right.  The  latter  is  really  a tidal 
channel  connecting  New  York  Bay  with  Long  Island  Sound. 
Manhattan  Island,  between  the  two  rivers,  has  a water-front  of 
about  dO  M.,  all  of  which  is  available  for  sea-going  vessels  excent 
about  5 M.  on  the  Harlem  River  (comp.,  however,  P 65  - S 
front  of  Greater  New  York  about  350  M.).  On  the  othe^r  side  of  the 

^ Jersey, 

with  the  cities  of  Jersey  City,  Hoboken,  etc.  (comp.  p.  67-  ferries 

Tl  "r  with  Brooklyn 

and  Long  Island  City  (comp.  R.  3).  The  shipping  is  mainly  coL 
fined  to  the  North  River  below  23rd  St.,  and  to  the  East  River 
below  Grand  St.  The  former  contains  the  docks  of  the  Transatlantic 

Wb  T ^ along 

South  St.  shows  the  shipping  in  the  East  River , representing  a 
arge  proportion  both  of  the  foreign  and  domestic  trade  of  New  York 
Both  rivers  are  alive  with  ferry-boats.  A pleasant  feature  of  the 
water-front  is  formed  by  the  Pier  Gardens  or  Recreation  Piers  in- 
tended as  winter  and  summer  resorts  for  the  inhabitants  of  the 

S- 2"3™87  Soil  e*®- , see 

line  of  Wall  St  (-n  p/  vhich  coincided  with  the  present 

governoXarrfved‘?n  l647  lllAVT'  four^utch 

by  the  English  n^der  'a\^d‘thZrh"  rket’  ^*1^ S'u?ch?n 

yelr.  gulaJ' En”‘r  f”®’*'**  Possession  by  treaty  in  the  following 

iamp  nf  regular  English  governor  was  ^ir  Edmund  Andros  ThP 

To  wLm  h'fstmhlrrcSrirS  S‘n^^:5  Yo^k! 

rection  in  1741  the  colmir^e^d  ^egro  Insur- 

SSiri.«  ,i",  I rfS 


30  Routed. 


NEW  YORK. 


Battery. 


MaD  of  176T  shows  that  the  town  extended  to  the 

Map  ot  i town  was  occupied  by  Washington 

r^me  tut  a e^the  battS  of  Long  Island  and  Harlem  Heights  (see 
D 6i)  the  Imerleans  retired,  and  New  York  became  the  British  head- 
p.  oij  opvpn  vpars  The  British  troops  evacuated  the  city  on  Nov. 

-From  1785  to  1790  New  York  was  the  seat  of  the  Federal 

G„‘verS;t,"  and  u w\s\e^^^^  down  to  1797 

and  Burr  were  among  the  prominent  men  of  this  period.  At  the  begin 
Twiner  nf  thp  19th  century  the  city  had  BO, 000  inhab.,  and  since  then  its 
^iowth  has  been  very  rlpid  , the  tide  of  immigration  setting  in  power- 
fnBv  aft^f  thfwar  of  18l2,  in  which  New  York  suffered  considerably 
frim  the  blockj^e.  In  1807  the  first  steamboat  v/as  put  on  the  Hudson 
[se^^.  187),  and  in  1^5  a f 1^3 

which  had  gained  control  of  the  municipal  government;  hut  in  lB7i 
Cfs^  Tweel  and  several  of  his  £ixh‘'“S8  New 

rprnid'h^the  sute  Legis^^^^^^^  inquire  into  the  expediency  of  the 
ponsolidation  of  New  York  with  Brooklyn  and  other  contiguous  ^owns 
and  cities  In  1896  the  act  to  make  this  consolidation  became  law,  and 
fn  1897  ?he  charter  of  Greater  New  York  (p.  27)  was  finally  passed.  - 

centre  is  shown  by  the  fict  that  fully  50  per  f 

trndp  of  the  United  States  is  carried  on  through  its  port.  In  y ^ 

ending  June  30th , 11:03,  the  value  of  foreign  imports 

$ 1,124, 558, 712  (224,911,3421.).  In  1003  ‘^e  harbour  was  entered  oy  3830 

veskls,  of  9,060,623  tons,  and  cleared  W3,  of  8,7«  370  tons^^^^^^ 

collected  on  .imports  number  in 

immigrants  into  the  Un  being  631  885  The  manufactures  of  New 

274,271,693?.)  and  employing  462,763  hands. 

The  S.  extremity  of  the  island  on  which  New  York  stands  is  occu- 
pied hy  the  Battery  (PI.  A,  3),  a pleasant  little  park,  20  acres  in  ex- 
tent, commanding  a good  view  of  the  harbour  hut  now  somewhat 
marred  hy  the  intrusion  of  the  elevated  railroad.  It  takes  its  name 
from  the  old  Fort  Amsterdam  (see  p.  31)  erected  here  hy 

Dutch  settlers  and  was  long  the  RQl  the 

The  park  contains  a statue  otJohn  Ericsson  (1803-89),  the  inventoi^ 
by  J.  Scott  Hartley,  erected  in  1893.  The  large  mrcular  erection  on 
the  W.  side  is  Castle  Garden,  formerly  the  landing-place  and  tem- 
porary quarters  of  immigrants,  which  have  now  been 
Ellis  Island  fp.  31.  It  was  at  one  time  a concert-liall,  where  Jenny 
Lind  made  her  first  appearance  in  America  (1850).  It  ® . 

np  as  the  New  York  Aquarium  (adm.,  see  p.  26 ; e^Ulogue  10  c 
1,700,453  visitors  in  1902),  which  contains  a fine 
and  marine  animals  in  several  large  pools  in  the  floor  and  mo 


/I  "rr 

9oinela| 


Cha«^.ofC 


ton  Terry 


^Am. 


'o  rri 

hi  Bo 


kCustoitf^-^ 


lew  Y 0 R K 

SOUTHERN  PART 

1.16.300 


;3  *C  omrmxnip  awF. 


Liberty  I.i 


Governor's  I. 


^tatenij— ■'HaimltonFi 


iS| 

. I 

:j|i 

|i 

Hi 

H' 


Lon^  IslajuL  City., 


Broadway. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  31 


100  tanks.  Among  the  chief  objects  of  interest  are  the  manatee  or 
sea-cow,  the  seals,  the  giant  turtles,  and  the  tropical  fish.  — The 
United  States  Barge  Office^  a tasteful  building  with  a tower  90  ft. 
high,  a little  to  the  E.,  is  an  appendage  of  the  custom-house.  At 
the  corner  of  West  St.  is  the  Whitehall  Building  (Pi.  A,  3 ; 20  stories 
r s^ea^ers  for  Liberty  Island  (see  p.  3)  and  Staten  Island 
(p.  bb),  and  also  several  Brooklyn  ferries,  start  from  the  Battery. 

On  the  N.  the  Battery  is  adjoined  by  the  Bowling  Green 
(PI.  A,  3),  the  cradle  of  New  York,  a small  open  space,  with  a statue 
oi  Ahraham  de  Peyster  (1657-1728},  by  G.  E.  Bissell,  in  the  middle. 
It  is  enclosed  by  the  Washington  Building  (p.  32;  W.},  the  new 
Custom  House  (S.),  and  the  Produce  Exchange  (see  below;  E.). 

The  Custom  House,  a large  quadrangular  granite  building,  in 
the  French  Renaissance  style,  designed  by  Cass  Gilbert,  begun  in 
1902,  and  still  unfinished,  occupies  the  site  of  Fort  Amsterdam 
(p.  30;  memorial  tablet  on  one  of  the  walls).  The  facade  towards 
Bowling  Green  is  to  be  adorned  with  colossal  groups  of  Europe, 
Asia,  Africa,  and  America,  and  with  12  heroic  figures  representing 
the  great  sea-powers. 

o which  included  the  governor’s  hou?e  and  a chapel, 

was  built  in  1626  and  demolished  in  1787.  A statue  of  George  III.,  which 
formerly  stood  here,  was  pulled  down  on  the  day  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence  (July  4th,  17v6)  and  melted  into  bullets.  The  Washington 
Uuilding  (]^  d2)  IS  on  the  site  of  the  house  erected  in  1760  by  Archibald 
ennedy,  Collector  of  the  Port  of  Kew  York,  and  afterwards  occupied 
by  the  British  generals  Cornwallis,  Howe,  and  Clinton  (memorial  tablet). 
It  was  here  that  Benedict  Arnold,  also  occupying  a house  on  the  Green, 
carried  on  his  negotiations  with  the  last-named.  The  railing  round  the 
Bowling  Green  circle  dates  from  before  the  Revolution. 

In  Whitehall  Street,  behind  the  Custom  House,  is  the  Pro- 
duce Exchange  (PI.  A,  3),  a huge  brick  and  terracotta  structure  in 
the  Italian  Renaissance  style,  containing  numerous  offices  and  a 
large  hall  (1st  floor),  220  ft.  long,  144  ft.  wide,  and  60  ft.  high 
(adm.,  see  p.  26).  The  tower,  225  ft.  high,  commands  a fine  ^Yiew 
of  the  city  and  harbour  (elevator). 

f <^0Jitaining  the  U.  S.  Army  Building,  leads  hence 

Hamilton,  and  39th  St.  ferries  to  Brooklyn 
(p.  10.  A little  to  the  E.,  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  Broad  St.  and  Pearl  St 
IS  what  remains  of  the  old  Fraunces  Tavern,  where  Washington  took 
farewell  of  his  officers  in  1783.  No.  73,  Pearl  St.,  was  the  first  Dutch 
tavern,  afterwards  the  Stadhuys  or  City  Hall  (tablet). 

At  the  Bowling  Green  begins  ^Broadway,  the  chief  street  in  New 
York,  extending  hence  all  the  way  to  Yonkers  (p.  191),  a distance 
of  19  M.  Up  to  33rd  St.,  Broadway  is  the  scene  of  a most  busy  and 
varied  traffic,  which  reaches  its  culminating  point  in  the  lower  ^art 
of  the  street  during  business-hours.  This  part  of  the  street  is  al- 
most entirely  occupied  by  wholesale  houses,  insurance  offices,  banks, 
and  the  like;  but  farther  up  are  numerous  fine  shops  (^stores’), 
Broadway  is  no  longer,  as  in  the  Dutch  colonial  days  of  its  christen- 
ing, the  broadest  street  in  New  York,  but  it  is  still  the  most  im- 
portant. The  number  of  immensely  tall  office-buildings  with  which 


NEW  YORK. 


Broadway. 


32  Route  2. 


it  is  now  lined  give  it  a curiously  canon-like  appearance  as  we  look 
up  it.  No.  1 Broadway,  to  the  left,  is  the  above-mentioned  Wash- 
ington Building,  a lofty  pile  of  offices  erected  by  Mr.  Cyrus  W. 
Field,  of  ocean  cable  fame.  It  is  adjoined  by  the  still  loftier  Bowl- 
ing Green  Building  (16  stories),  designed  by  English  architects 
and  built  with  English  capital.  Other  conspicuous  business  premises 
in  the  lower  part  of  Broadway  are  the  large  Welles  and  Standard 
Oil  Co.  Buildings  (to  the  right,  Nos.  18,  26),  the  42  Broadway 
Building  (right;  20  stories;  1050  offices),  and  Aldrich  Court  (Nos. 
43-45;  left),  on  the  site  of  the  first  habitation  of  white  men  on 
Manhattan  Island  (tablet  of  the  Holland  Society).  . Opposite  the 
last  is  the  Tower  Building  (No.  50),  185  ft.  high  and  only  25  ft. 
wide.  A little  higher  up,  to  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  Exchange 
Place,  are  the  Exchange  Court  Building,  with  large  and  excellent 
bronze  statues  of  Stuyvesant,  Clinton,  Hudson,  and  Wolfe,  by 
J.  Massey  Rhind,  and  the  Consolidated  Stock  and  Petroleum  Ex- 
change (visitors  admitted  to  the  gallery).  At  Nos.  64-68  (right)  is 
the  tall  light  sandstone  building  of  the  Manhattan  Life  Insurance 
Co.,  the  tower  of  which  is  360  ft.  high  (fine  view  of  the  city,  har- 
bour, etc.).  To  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  Rector  St.,  is  the  im- 
posing Empire  Building  (20  stories),  the  hall  of  which  forms  a busy 
thoroughfare  between  Broadway  and  the  Rector  St.  ‘EP  station.  This 
brings  us  to  Trinity  Church  (p.  33),  opposite  which  is  Wall  Street 


(see  below).  ^ 

Wall  Street  (PL  A,  3) , diverging  from  Broadway  to  the  right,  is  the 
Lombard  Street  of  ^ew  York,  ‘the  great  nerve  centre  of  all  American  busi- 
ness’, and  ‘the  financial  barometer  of  the  country’,  where  finance  and 
transportation,  the  two  determining  powers  in  business,  Jave  meir  head- 
quarters’. The  street,  which  follows  the  line  of  the  walls  of  the  Dutch  city, 
consists  mainly  of  a series  of  substantial  and  handsome  hanks  and  ofhce- 
huildings.  To  the  left,  one  block  from  Broadway,  at  the  corner  ol 
Nassau  St.,  is  the  Manhattan  Trust  Building, ft.  hig^  At 
corner  of  the  same  street  stands  the  United  States  Sub-Treasury  (PI.  A,  3^ 
adm.,  see  p.  26),  a marble  structure  with  a Doric  portico,  approached  by 
a flight  of  steps  bearing  a large  bronze  statue  of  George  Washington,  by 
J.Q.  A.  Ward,  erected  in  1883.  The  building  occupies  the  site  ^ the 
old  Federal  Hall,  in  which  the  first  U.S.  Congress  was  held  and  Wash- 
ington was  inaugurated  as  President.  Next  to  the  Sub-Treasury  is  the  j7.^. 
Assay  Office  (adm. , p.  20) , where  strangers  may  see  the  processes  of 
assaying  and  refining  the  crude  bullion.  Opposite,  at  the  corner  of  Broa 
St.  (p.  33),  is  the  Drexel  Building,  a white  marble  structure  the 
Renaissance  style  (headquarters  of  J.  Pierpont  Morgan), 
facade  in  Exchange  Place  (p.  33),  is  the  Wall 

25  stories.  Farther  along  Wall  St.,  at  the  corner  of  William  St.,  is  the 
present  U.S.  Custom  House  (PI.  A,  3),  a massive  pile  of  dark-coloured 
granite,  with  an  Ionic  colonnade  (columns  38  ft.  high).  The 
lists  of  a huge  rotunda,  covered  by  a dome  supported  by  eight  enormous 
columns  of  Italian  marble,  with  elaborate  Corinthian  ®api^.  For  the 
new  Custom  House,  see  p.  31;  the  old  Custom  House  has  been  bought  by 
the  National  City  Bank.  — On  the  right,  between  Hanover  St. 

(with  the  Cotton  Exchange),  is  the  Sampson  Building,  ^nd  ^posite  (left)  is 
the  Tontine  Building.  At  the  junction  of  Wall,  ® 

ihe  Beaver  BuiWing.  a ‘flat-iron’  (comp.  p.  40)  office-building  of  stories, 
erected  in  1903-4.  Wall  St.  then  crosses  Water  St.  and  Front  St.,  and  ends 
at  South  St.  and  the  ferry  to  Montague  St.,  Brooklyn. 


Broadway. 


NEW  YORK. 


Route.  33 


Broad  St.,  a busy  street  leaving  Wall  St.  opposite  the  Sub-Treasury, 
contains  the  *Stock  Exchange  (PI.  A,  3),  a white  marble  building  to  the 
right,  by  George  B.  Post,  completed  in  1903,  with  other  entrances  in  Wall 
St.  and  New  St.  Strangers,  who  are  admitted  to  a gallery  overlooking 
the  hall  (comp.  p.  26),  should  not  omit  a visit  to  this  strange  scene 
of  business,  tumult,  and  excitement,  a wilder  scene  probably  than  that 
presented  in  any  European  exchange  (businesshours  10-3).  The  value 
of  railway  and  other  stocks  dealt  with  here  daily  often  amounts  to 
$ 30,000,000  (6,000,000^),  besides  government  bonds.  As  much  as  $ 82,000 
(16,400?.)  has  been  paid  for  a seat  in  the  New  York  Stock  Exchange,  and 
6000?.  is  the  present  value.  There  are  about  1200  members.  — Oppo- 
site the  Exchange,  adjoining  the  Drexel  Building  (see  p.  32),  is  the  Mills 
Building.,  one  of  the  first  of  New  York’s  great  office-buildings  (1882),  now 
somewhat  dwarfed  by  the  modern  ‘skyscraper’.  At  the  S.E.  corner  of 
Broad  St.  and  Exchange  Place  is  the  Broad- Exchange  Building a 20-story 
structure,  276  ft.  high.  The  Commercial  Cable  Building.,  with  its  two  domes, 
is  317  ft.  high  (view  from  the  roof  ^ pass  from  the  Superintendent).  Broad 
St.  ends  at  South  St.,  a little  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Battery  (p.  30). 

Nassau  St.,  running  N.  from  Wall  St.,  opposite  Broad  St.,  contains  the 
office  of  the  -Mutual  Life  Insurance  Co.  (PL  A,  B,  3),  one  of  the  handsomest 
business  structures  in  New  York,  but  not  seen  to  advantage  in  this  narrow 
street.  A tablet  commemorates  the  fact  that  this  was  the  site  of  the  Middle 
Dutch  Church  (1727).  At  the  corner  of  Pine  St.  is  the  Hanover  Bank 
Building  (22  stories),  completed  in  1903^  and  at  the  corner  of  Cedar  St.  is 
the  National  Bank  of  Commerce,  270  ft.  in  height.  — In  Cedar  St.,  between 
Nassau  St.  and  Broadway,  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  *^New  York 
Clearing  House  Association,  the  business  of  which  averages  $ 240  000  000 
daily  and  amounts  to  $ 10,000,000,000  (15,000,000,000?.)  per  year.  The  largest 
daily  trans  action  on  record  (May  10th,  1901)  am(  unted  to  $ 622,410,525.  — 
In  Liberty  St.,  the  next  cross-street  above  Cedar  St.,  is  the  new  building 
of  the’Wew  York  Chamber  of  Commerce,  the  oldest  commercial  corporation 
in  the  United  States  (1770)j  it  was  designed  by  J.  B.  Baker  and  consists 
of  white  marble  on  a granite  base,  with  Ionic  columns  and  statues  ofDe 
Witt  Clinton,  John  Jay,  and  Alex.  Hamilton  on  the  facade  (1903). 


On  tbeW.  side  of  Broadway,  opposite  the  beginning  of  W'all  St., 
rises  ^Trinity  Church  (PI.  A,  3;  comp.  p.  xcii\  a handsome  Gothic 
edifice  of  brown  stone,  by  R.  M.  Upjohn,  192  ft.  long,  80  ft.  wide, 
and  60  ft.  high,  with  a spire  285  ft.  high  (view;  permit  from  rector 
necessary).  The  present  building  dates  from  1839-46,  but  occupies 
the  site  of  a church  of  1696.  The  church  owns  property  to  the  value 
of,  perhaps,  2,000,000?.,  producing  an  income  of  100,000?.,  used  in 
the  support  of  several  subsidiary  churches  and  numerous  charities 
(comp.  p.  198). 

The  Interior  (adm.,  see  p.  26),  dimly  lighted  by  stained  glass,  affords 
a strange  contrast  to  the  bustling  life  of  Broadway.  The  chancel  is  at 
the  W.  end.  The  altar  and  reredos,  built  as  a memorial  of  William  B. 
Astor,  are  handsomely  adorned  with  marble  and  mosaics.  The  bronze 
doors  are  a memorial  of  John  Jacob  Astor.  In  the  so-called  ‘Bishops’ 
Boom  13  the  cenotaph  of  Bishop  Onderdonk ; in  the  vestry  is  the  white 
marble  monument  of  Bishop  Hobart  (1775-1830).  - In  the  N.E.  corner  of 
Ghurciiyard  is  a Gothic  Monument  in  memory  of  American  patriots 
who  died  in  British  prisons  during  the  Bevolution.  Adjacent  is  a bronze 
^^corder  of  New  York  under  the  British,  erected 
-7.  7/  railing  of  the  churchyard  is  the  grave  of  Alexander 

Hamilton  (d.  1804;  tomb  with  pyramidal  top).  Robert  Fulton  (d.  1815),  the 
feather  of  the  steamboat,  lies  in  the  vault  of  the  Livingston  family,  near 
the  b.  side  of  the  chancel.  Close  to  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  church  is  the 
monument  of  Capt.  Lawrence,  slain  in  1813  in  his  gallant  defence  of  the 
Chesapeake  against  the  British  frigate  ‘Shannon’.  Among  the  other  tombs 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  3 


NEW  YORK. 


Broadway. 


34  Route  2. 


are  those  of  the  ill-fated  Charlotte  Temple  0),  Mert  GaUaMn  (Secretary 
of  the  Treasury  1801-13),  Gen.  Phil.  Kearney  (d.  1862),  and  Wm.  Bradford 
(d  1762),  printer  of  the  first  New  York  newspaper.  The  oldest  stone  is 
dated  16^. 


Just  alaove  Trinity  Churcli  is  the  Trinity  Building  (to  be  rebuilt 
on  an  enormous  scale)  and  nearly  opposite  are  the  ^TJnion  Trust  Co. 
(No.  80  Broadway),  one  of  the  best  architectural  efforts  of  its  kind 
in  the  United  States,  and  the  23-story  building  of  the  American 
Surety  Co.  (cor.  Pine  St. ; 306  ft.  high),  the  latter  containing  the 
United  States  Weather  Bureau  (‘Old  Probabilities’).  On  the  same 
side,  between  Pine  St.  and  Cedar  St.,  is  the  office  of  the  ^Equitable 
Life  Insurance  Co.  (PI.  B,  3),  with  a well-equipped  interior  (1500 
tenants;  enormous  vaults  of  the  Mercantile  Safe  Deposit  Co.,  with 
16,000  safes;  view  from  roof).  Several  other  huge  buildings,  among 
them  that  of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Co.  (No.  195;  left)  and  the 
Broadway-Maiden-Lane  Building  (18  stories ; right),  are  passed  ere 


we  reach  Fulton  St.  ^ i 

Fulton  Street  (PI.  B,  2-4),  one  of  the  busiest  streets  in  New  York,  leads 
E.  to  Fulton  Market  (fish,  oysters,  etc.)  and  Fulton  Ferry  (for  Brooklyn)  and 
W.  to  Washington  Market.^  which  should  be  visited  for  the  sa^^e  oi  its 
wonderful  display  of  fruit,  vegetables,  and  other  provisions. 

At  the  S.E.  corner  of  Fulton  St.  is  the  red  brick  building  of 
the  Evening  Post  (long  edited  by  Wm.  C.  Bryant),  at  the  S.W.  corner 
rises  the  tall  and  narrow  office  of  the  Mail  Express),  and  at  the 
N.E.  corner  is  the  National  Park  Bank  (new  facade,  1904).  — Just 
above,  on  the  right  side  of  Broadway,  is  the  lofty  St.  Paul  Building 
(cor.  of  Ann  St.),  with  its  26  stories  (308  ft.  high).  Opposite 
is  St.  Paul’s  Church  (PI.  B,  3),  the  oldest  church-edifice  in  New 


York  (1756).  , t • u 

The  graveyard  contains  some  interesting  monuments  {Emmet.,  the  Irisn 
patriot,  monument  to  the  S.E.  of  the  churchy  G.  F.  Cooke,  the  actor),  and 
in  the  portico  at  the  E.  end  of  the  church  (next  Broadway)  ^ere  is  a 
memorial  of  General  Montgomery,  who  fell  at  the  storming  of  C^uebec  in 
1775  The  positions  of  the  square  pews  in  which  George  Washington  and 
Governor  Clinton  used  to  sit,  in  the  N.  and  S.  aisles,  are  marked  by  tablets 
on  the  walls. 


Broadway  now  reaches  the  S.  end  of  the  open  space  known  as 
City  Hall  Park  (PI.  B,  3),  the  site  of  tbe  ancient  ‘Commons’  or 
pasturage,  in  and  around  wMcb  stand  several  important  buildings. 
In  tbe  apex  between  Broadway  and  Park  Bow  (p.  35)  is  tbe  Post 
Office,  a large  Renaissance  building,  witb  a mansard  roof,  com- 
pleted in  1875.  Its  four  facades  are  respectively  290,  340,  130,  and 
230  ft.  long.  On  tbe  third  and  fourth  floors  are  tbe  United  States 
Courts.  About  5000  men  are  employed  in  tbe  New  York  Post  Office, 
andnearly  1,000,000,000  letters  and  other  postal  packets  are  annually 
dealt  witb  (comp.  p.  17).  — Behind  tbe  Post  Office,  to  tbe  N.,  is  tbe 
*City  Hall  (adm.,  see  p.  26),  containing  tbe  headquarters  of  the 
Mayor  of  Greater  New  York  and  other  municipal  authorities.  It 
is  a well-proportioned  building  in  tbe  Italian  style,  witb  a central 
portico,  two  projecting  wings,  and  a cupola  clock-tower.  Tbe  architect 


ParU  Row, 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  35 


was  John  McComb,  The  rear  was  built  of  free-stone,  as  it  was  sup- 
posed at  its  erection  (1803-12)  that  no  one  of  importance  would 
ever  live  to  the  N.  of  the  building. 

The  Governor^  Room  (open  to  visitors,  10-4),  used  for  official  receptions, 
contains  the  chairs  used  in  the  first  U.S.  Congress,  the  chair  in  which 
Wasdimgton  was  inaugurated  as  President,  the  desk  on  which  he  wrote 
his  tirst  message  to  Congress,  Jefferson’s  desk,  and  other  relics.  Amone 
the  portraits  are  those  of  Hamilton,  Lafayette,  and  several  governors  of 
.New  York.  Jefferson  is  commemorated  by  a statue.  The  Council  Chamber 
contains  a large  portrait  of  Washington,  by  Trumbull. 

To  the  N.  of  the  City  Hall  is  the  Court  House  (PI.  B,  3 ; 1861- 
67),  a large  building  of  white  marble,  with  its  principal  entrance, 
garnished  with  lofty  Corinthian  columns,  facing  Chambers  St.  The 
interior,  which  contains  the  State  Courts  and  several  municipal 
offices,  is  well  fitted  up.  The  building,  owing  to  the  scandalous 
‘Ring  Frauds’  (p.  30),  cost  12  million  dollars  (2,400,000^.).  Opposite 
the  Court  House,  in  Chambers  St.,  are  various  City  Offices.  These 
include  the  new  Register’s  Office  or  Hall  of  Records  (Pi.  B,  3),  a 
handsome  building  in  the  French  Renaissance  style,  erected  at  a 
cost  of  $ 6,000,000.  It  is  faced  with  granite  and  is  to  be  adorned 
with  symbolical  groups  of  sculpture.  The  main  entrance  is  adorned 
with  sculptures  and  mosaics;  and  the  interior  will  also  be  elaborately 
decorated.  To  the  S.W.  of  the  City  Hall,  facing  Broadway,  is  a 
matue  of  Nathan  Hale  (1755-76),  a victim  of  the  Revolution  bv 
Maemonnies  (1893).  . 

TT  present  dewntown  terminus  of  the  New  York  Subway  is  at  City 

Hall  Park  (comp.  p.  14).  ^ 

Park  Row  (PI.  B,  3),  bounding  the  S.E.  side  of  the  City  Hall 
Park,  contains  the  offices  of  many  of  the  principal  New  York  news- 
papers, which  rank  among  the  largest  and  most  imposing  buildings 
in  the  city.  Perhaps  the  most  solid  and  satisfactory  is  the  present 
office  of  the  New  York  Tirnes,  by  Geo.  B.  Post,  in  light-coloured 
stone,  with  round-headed  windows;  the  entrance,  however,  is  dispro- 
portionately small  (new  building,  see  p.  41).  Next  to  it  (to  the  N.) 
is  the  Tribune  Building,  of  red  brick  with  white  facings  and  a clock- 
tower  285  ft.  high.  The  Pulitzer  Building,  with  the  World  Office,  of 
brown  stone,  with  a dome,  is  the  tallest  and  largest  of  all,  and  a 
splendid  ’^Tiew  of  New  York  is  obtained  from  the  dome  (310  ft.- 
elevator;  height  to  apex  of  lantern  3751/2  It.).  The  Potter  Building, 
containing  the  office  of  the  New  York  Press,  forms  one  block  with 
the  Times  building.  The  tall  structure  overtopping  the  latter  is  the 
building  of  the  American  Tract  Society,  situated  at  the  corner  of 
Nassau  and  Spruce  Sts.  (23  stories,  306  ft.  high;  restaurant  on  the 
top  floor,  see  p.  12).  To  the  right  of  the  Potter  Building,  opposite 
the  S.  apex  of  the  Post  Office,  is  the  Park  Row  Building  (30  stories  • 
PI.  B,  3),  finished  in  1898,  the  towers  of  which  are  the  loftiest  struc- 
York (387  ft.;  ’^Yiew).  It  has  950  offices,  occupied  by. 
about  6000  persons.  Opposite  the  newspaper  offices,  in  Printing 
House  Square,  is  a bronze  Statue  of  Benjamin  Franklin  (the  tutelary 

3» 


36  Route  2. 


NE  W YORK. 


Five  Points. 


deity  of  American  journalism),  tiy  Plassman,  and  in  front  of  the 
Tribune  Building  is  a seated  bronze  figure,  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  of  its 
famous  founder  Horace  Greeley  (1811-72),  erected  in  1872.  The  grey 
granite  building  of  the  Staats-Zeituny  is  at  the  corner  ofTryon  Place. 

Tlie  part  of  Park  Row  beyond  this  point,  and  the  adjacent  Baxter 
SL  fthe  ‘Bay’),  are  mainly  occupied  by  Jewish  dealers  in  old  clothes 
and  other  articles.  Park  Row  ends  at  Chatham  Square,  whence  the  _ Bowery 
(PI  C D 4,  3),  named  from  the  Dutch  ‘Bou' reis  or  farms  in  this  part 
of  the  town  runs  N.  to  the  junction  of  Third  and  Fourth  Avenues  (see 
T)  47)  The  Bowery  is  now  full  of  drinking-saloons,  dime  museums,  sinall 
theatres,  and  hucksters’  stalls,  and  presents  one  of  the 
and  characteristic  scenes  in  b^ew  York  though  it  is^ 
than  when  Dickens  described  it  in  his  American  ^otes  . Its  residents  are 
maSi};  Germans  and  Poles.  - Five  Points  (PI.  B,  C 3 , Om  -imtrmt  (roughly 
speaking)  between  Park  Row  (S.E.),  Centre  St  (W  ),  and  Grand  St  (^  ), 
once  bore  the  reputation  of  being  the  most  evil  district 
home  of  rowdies,  thieves,  and  drunkards.  Like  the  Seven  Dials  in  London, 
it  has,  however,  of  late  been  wonderfully  improved  by  the  construction 
of  new  streets,  the  removal  of  old  rookeries,  and  the  invasion  of  com- 
mercT  It  took  its  name  from  the  ‘five  points’  formed  by  the  intersection 
Jf  Worth  (then  Anthony),  Baxter,  and  Park  Streets;  and  here  now  stand 
the  Five  Points  Mission  and  the  Five  Points  House  of  Industry  (visito  s 
courteously  received).  Perhaps  the  most  interesting  parts  of  the  district 
now  are  the  Italian  quarter  in  Mulberry  SL,  .^i^b  its  once  famous  Bend 
(now  a small  public  park),  and  Chznatown  in  Mott  SL  and^e((  SL,  the 
squalor  of  which  presents  some  elements  of  the  picturesque.  The  swinging 
lanterns  and  banners  of  Chinatown  give  a curiously  orie^al  air  to  this 
T>art  of  the  city  Visits  may  be  paid  to  the  Joss  House  at  No.  16,  and  the 
llt'se  RestauJant  at  No.  14%IoU  St.,  to  the  at  18  D oyer  St.  and 

(in  the  company  of  a detective)  to  one  of  the  Opium  Joints.  The 
Market  at  Seward  Park  (PI.  C,  4,  5),  the  centre  ot  the  oj 

Russian  and  Austrian  Jews,  is  also  interesting.  — In  It ew  Chambers  SL, 
leading  to  the  right  from  Park  Row,  is  the  Newsboys 
erected  by  the  Children’s  Aid  Society,  which  has  given 
50  years  to  about  400,000  boys,  at  a total  expense 

(llOOOOn  [The  Children’s  Aid  Society  was  founded  by  G.  Loring  Brace 
(d  1880)  in  1853,  and  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  praiseworthy 
benevol^ent  institutions  in  New  York.  Its  offices  are  in 
Biiildine  105  E.  22nd  St.  (p.  47).]  — On  the  E.  side  of  City  Hall  Park 
tve  the  ftarting-point  of  tbe  City  Hall  brancb  of  the  Third  Avenue  Elevate 
Railroad  (see  p.  13)  and  the  approaches  to  Brooklyn  Bridge  (see  helow). 
Xrre  junction  of  Pearl  St.  and  Cherry  St.  (PI.  B 4),  below  an  arch  o 
Brooklyn  Bridge,  is  a tablet  marking  the  site  of  the  first  Presidential 
mansion  of  George  Washington  (1789-90).  i 

fit  is  believed  that  the  small  Mulberry  Bend  ParA;  will  be  selected  as 
the  site  of  a large  new  Court  House  about  to  be  erected  by  Ihe  City  ot 

great  *Brooklyn  Bridge  (PI.  B,  4;  p.  13),  connecting 
New  York  with  Brooklyn  (p.  69),  was  until  tbe  other  day  (comp, 
p.  37)  the  largest  suspension-bridge  in  the  world  and  is  equally 
interesting  as  a marvel  of  engineering  skill  and  as  a model^  of 
grace  and  beauty.  Its  New  York  terminus  is  in  Park  Row,  facing 
tbe  City  Hall  Park,  where  it  bas  direct  connection  with  tbe 
Elevated  Railway  (comp.  p.  13),  while  the  Brooklyn  end  is  at 
Sands  St.  Tbe  bridge  affords  accommodation  for  two  railway- 
tracks  (comp.  p.  13),  two  carriage  - roadways  (now  traversed 
by  electric  tramways;  p.  14:),  and  a wide  raised 
centre.  It  was  begun  in  1870  and  opened  for  traffic  in  1883,  at  a 


Brooklyn  Bridge, 


NEY/  YORK. 


2.  Jloute,  37 


total  expense  of  nearly  $ 15,000,000  (3,000,000^.).  It  was  designed 
by  John  A,  Roebling,  who  died  in  1869  from  an  accident,  and  was 
completed  by  his  son  Washington  Roehling.  The  bridge  was  taken 
over  by  the  State  in  1875.  The  toll  for  one-horse  vehicles  is  5 c. ; 
pedestrians  and  bicycles  pass  free.  The  surface  and  elevated  roads 
of  Brooklyn  cross  the  bridge  to  its  New  York  terminus  (fare  to  any 
part  of  Brooklyn  5 c.). 

The  total  length  of  the  bridge,  including  the  approaches,  is  5990  ft. 
(B/s  M.)5  and  the  distance  between  the  piers  is  1595  ft.  (main  spans  of 
Forth  Bridge  1700  ft. ; Suspension  Bridge  over  the  Danube  at  Budapest 
1250  ft.;  Menai  Suspension  Bridge  580  ft.).  The  width  is  85  ft.,  and  the 
height  above  high-water  135  ft.  The  gigantic  stone  piers,  rising  270  ft. 
above  high-water,  are  built  on  caissons  sunk  upon  the  rocky  bed  of  the 
stream,  which  is  45  ft.  below  the  surface  on  the  Brooklyn  side  and  80  ft. 
on  the  New  York  side.  The  bridge  itself,  which  is  entirely  of  iron  and 
steel,  is  suspended  from  the  towers  by  four  16- inch  steel- wire  cables, 
which  are  ‘anchored’  at  each  end  by  35,000  cubic  yards  of  solid  masonry. 
The  four  cables  contain  14,360  M.  of  wire,  and  their  weight  is  about 
3600  tons.  The  hanging  cables  attached  to  the  large  ones  number  2172. 

The  bridge-trains  annually  convey  about  60,000,000  passengers,  and 
the  trolley-cars  about  50,000,000,  while  probably  at  least  5,000,000  more 
cross  on  foot.  The  ’"View  from  the  raised  promenade  in  the  middle  of 
the  bridge  is  one  which  no  visitor  to  New  York  should  miss.  To  the 
N.  is  the  E.  River,  with  its  busy  shipping;  to  the  S.  is  the  Harbour,  with 
the  Statue  of  Liberty  (p.  3)  in  the  distance;  to  the  W.  is  New  York;  to  the 
E.,  Brooklyn.  The  view  by  night  is  very  striking. 

Three  other  bridges  over  the  East  River  have  recently  been  con- 
structed or  begun;  but  these  may  be  all  described  more  briefly,  as,  though 
worthy  rivals  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge  as  feats  of  engineering  and  for  local 
traffic,  they  are  of  much  less  practical  importance  for  the  tourist.  — The 
first  of  these,  known  as  the  Williamsburg  Bridge  (PI.  C,  D,  4,  5).  was  begun 
in  1896  and  completed  in  1904,  at  a total  cost  of  about  $ 11,000,000.  It 
combines  the  suspension  and  cantilever  principles  and  has  almost  the 
same  span  (1600  ft.)  between  towers  as  the  Brooklyn  Bridge.  It  is  118  ft.  wide 
and  135  ft.  above  the  water-level  (at  the  centre),  and  has  an  extreme 
length,  including  approaches,  of  7200  ft.  (IV4  M ).  It  accommodates  two 
railway-tracks,  four  tramway-lines,  two  roadways,  two  cycle-paths,  and 
two  footpaths.  The  towers,  333  ft.  high,  are  of  steel  (like  the  rest  of  the 
bridge)  and  rest  each  on  two  piers.  The  bridge  connects  Delancey  St., 
New  York,  with  Williamsburg  (Brooklyn),  on  Long  Island.  — The  Manhattan 
Bridge  (PI.  C,  B,  A,  4,  5),  begun  in  1901  and  still  in  process  of  construction, 
crosses  from  Canal  St.,  New  York,  to  Washington  St.,  Brooklyn.  It  is 
also  a steel  suspension  bridge,  with  a total  length  of  9900  ft.  (nearlv  2 M.) 
and  a main  span  of  1470  ft.  In  height  and  width  it  resembles  the  Williams- 
burg Bridge.  It  will  bear  eight  railway-tracks  besides  roadways  and  foot- 
paths. — The  Blackwell’s  Island  Bridge  (PI.  I,  4,  5),  also  begun  in  1901, 
is  a cantilever  bridge  supported  by  six  piers,  two  on  each  side  of  the 
river  and  two  on  Blackwell’s  Island  (p,  66).  Its  total  length  will  be 
7459  ft.  (nearly  IY2  M.),  and  the  channel-spans  will  be  respectively  1182  ft. 
and  98i  ft.  in  width.  It  will  bear  six  railroad-tracks,  two  roadways,  and 
two  footpaths.  The  estimated  cost  of  this  bridge  is  about  $ 18,000,000. 

The  most  prominent  structures  in  the  part  of  Broadway  skirting 
City  Hall  Park  are  the  Postal  Telegraph  Building  and  the  Home  Life 
Insurance  Co.  (No.  256),  the  latter  a 16-story  edifice  of  white  marble, 
with  a high-pitched,  red-tiled  roof.  The  section  of  Broadway  above 
the  City  Hall  Park  contains  numerous  railway-offices  and  wholesale 
warehouses  of  ‘dry  goods’  {i.e.  haberdashery,  drapery,  etc.).  At 
the  corner  of  Chambers  St,,  to  the  right,  is  a large  marble  building 


38  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Broadway, 


erected  for  tlie  mammotli  firm  of  drapers,  A,  T.  Stewart  ^ Co.,  "but 
now  occupied  i)y  offices.  To  tlie  left  is  the  Chemical  National  Banh 
(No  270),  which,  with  a capital  of  hut  $ 300,000  (60,000^.),  holds 
$28  000,000  (5,600,000i.)  on  deposit,  has  a surplus  of  $7,500,000, 
and  pays  dividends  at  the  rate  of  150  per  cent,  while  its  stock  is 
quoted  at  4250.  At  No.  346  Broadway  rises  the  New  York  Life 

Insurance  Office  (view  from  tower).  ^ n . 

Two  blocks  to  the  right  (E.)  of  this  point,  between  Elm  St.  and  Centre 
St.  is  the  building  known  as  the  Tombs  (PI.  C,  3;  shown  by  permit 
from  the  Department  of  Correction,  148  E.  20th  St.),  the 
New  York.  The  original  granite  building,  in  a heavy  but  effective  Egyp- 
tian style,  has  been  taken  down,  and  a new  and  more  commodious 
structure  has  been  erected  in  its  place  (1898-99)  A 

the  prison  with  the  Criminal  Courts,  a large  building  to  the  N.  Adjoining 
the  latter  is  a tasteful  Fire  Station. 

Farther  up  Broadway  the  predominant  warehouses  are  those  of 
clotMers  and  furriers.  The  principal  cross-streets  are  Canal  Street 
(once  the  hed  of  a stream  crossing  the  Island),  Orand  Street  (see 
p.  22),  and  Houston  Street. 

On  the  S.  side  of  Bleecker  Street,  which  runs  to  the  left  (W.)  from 
Broadway,  just  above  Houston  St.,  is  the  Mills  House  No.  1 (PI.  h, 
f'pWlanVropic’  hotel  (architect,  E.  Flagg)  Vi.ifnrs 

to  the  structures  erected  by  Lord  E-owton  (d.  1903)  in  London.  Visito  s 
will  find  it  interesting  to  inspect  the  large  covered  courts,  wash-rooms, 
laundry,  restaurant,  etc.  It  contains  1500  bedrooms.  A companion  build- 
ing (Mills  House  No.  2)  has  been  erected  at  the  corner  of  Rivington  and 
Clinton  Sts.  (PI.  D,  4).  Near  the  latter,  at  the  corner  of  Rivington  and 
EldridgeSts.,is  the  building  of  the  University  Settlement  Society,  P'^blic 

halls,  club-rooms,  a circulating  Lbra^,  and  a roof-garden.  [The  E 
Side  House  Settlement  is  at  the  foot  of  E.  7fath  St.,  Pi.  E,  O.J  pioro 

To  the  right,  opposite  No.  745  Broadway,  opens  the  wide  Astor  PlaoS 
fPl  D,  3),  with  the  handsome  building  of  the  Mercantile  Library  (p.  23), 
completed  in  1891.  The  library  occupies  the  site  of  the  old  opera-house,  m 
front  of  which,  in  1849,  took  place  the  famous  riot  between  the  par- 
tizans  of  the  actors  Forest  and  Macready.  It  contains  a large  and  Land- 
some  reading-room  and  possesses  260,000  volumes.  — \u  Lafayette 
wMch  runs  to  the  S.  from  Astor  Place,  is  the 
a large  red  structure  with  wings,  containing  about 

It  was  originally  founded  in  1848  by  John  Jacob  Astor  and  has  since  heen 
liberallv  endowed  by  his  sons  and  grandsons,  the  united  benefactions  ot 
tte  family  amintini  to  about  $ l-WoC  (340,W  1.).  The  As  or  Library 
now  forms  one  of  the  two  reference  branches  of  the  N.  Y.  Fublw  LiOrary 
(see  n 43)  which  are  used  by  about  120,000  readers  annually.  They  sub- 
scribe to  45Wd^  periodicals.  - Lafayette  Place  also  contains  the 
famous  Be  Vinne  Press,  which  produces  some  of  the  most  artistic  typo- 

^'■“^At  theluncUon  of  Astor  Place  and  Third  Airenue  stands  the  Cooper 
iTKititute  or  Union  (PL  D,  3),  a large  building  of  brown  sandstone, 
founded  and  endowed  in  1857  by  Peter  Cooper,  a wealthy  and  philanthropic 
aTa  "cost  of  nearfy  $ 1,000,000  (200,OOOL).  It  conta  a fme 
free  library  and  reading-room,  free  schools  of  science  and  art  (attended  by 
3500  students)  and  a large  lecture-hall.  The  average  daily  number  of 
rLders  is  about  2000.  The  Sunday-evening  lectures  are  attended  by  huge 
crowds.  People’s  Symphony  Concerts,  at  low  Prices,  are  a successful 
feature  of  the  work  The  Cooper  Union  also  contains  the  Museum  for  the 
Irt^of  DecoratTon  ^m  ^ see  p.  26).  In  front  of  the  Cooper  Union  is  a 
^Statue  of  Peter  Cooper  (1791-1883),  by  Aug.  St.  Gaudens  ^ 

canonv  by  Stanford  White).  — Opposite  to  the  Cooper  Union  is  the  Bible 
Housed  the  headquarters  of  the  American  Bible  Society,  which  has  published 


Broadway. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  39 


and  distributed  65,000,000  copies  of  the  Bible  or  parts  of  it,  in  upwards 
of  80  different  languages  and  dialects.  The  society  possesses  an  interesting 
collection  of  MSS.  and  early  printed  volumes,  now  kept  at  the  Lenox 
Library  (p.  46). 

Beyond  Astor  Place  Broadway  passes  (right)  the  large  building 
occupied  by  John  Wanamaker  (p.  22),  but  originally  erected  for  A. 
T.  Stewart  & Co.  With  its  new  annexes,  it  claims  to  be  Hhe  largest 
departmental  store  in  the  world^  It  has  a direct  entrance  from  the 
Aster  Place  Subway  Station  (p.  14).  Broadway  now  inclines  to  the 
left.  At  the  bendf  rises  '^Grrace  Church  (PI.  E,  3;  Epis.),  which, 
with  the  adjoining  rectory,  chantry,  and  church-house,  forms,  per- 
haps, the  most  attractive  ecclesiastical  group  in  New  York.  The 
present  church,  which  is  of  white  limestone  and  has  a lofty  marble 
spire,  was  erected  in  1843-46  from  the  designs  of  James  EenwieJe^ 
Jun.  The  interior  is  well-proportioned  (open  daily,  9-5;  good 
musical  services),  and  all  the  windows  contain  stained  glass.  Behind 
the  church,  facing  Fourth  Ave.,  is  the  Grace  Memorial  Home,  a day 
nursery  for  children.  — At  14th  St.  Broadway  reaches  *Union 
Square  (Pl.E,  3),  which  is  beautified  with  pleasure  grounds,  statues, 
and  an  ornamental  fountain.  On  the  W.  side  of  the  square,  at  the 
corner  of  15th  St.,  is  Tiffany's,  one  of  the  finest  goldsmith’s  and 
jeweller’s  shops  in  the  world  (visitors  welcomed  even  when  not 
purchasers).  At  the  corner  of  E.  16th  St.  is  the  massive  office- 
building of  the  Bank  of  the  Metropolis.  Near  the  S.E.  corner  is  a 
good  Equestrian  Statue  of  Washington,  by  H.  K.  Brown;  in  the 
centre  of  the  S.  side  is  a bronze  Statue  of  Lafayette,  by  Bartholdi; 
in  the  S.W.  corner  is  a Statue  of  Abraham  Lincoln  (1865),  by  H.  K. 
Browne;  and  on  the  W.  side  is  the  James  Fountain,  by  Donndorf. 
The  pavement  on  the  S.  side  of  Union  Sq.,  between  Broadway  and 
Fourth  Avenue,  used  to  be  known  as  the  ‘Rialto’  or  ‘Slave  Market’, 
as  the  resort  of  actors  in  search  of  engagements,  but  the  term  is 
now  applied  to  the  part  of  Broadway  to  the  N.  of  23rd  St. 

Fourteenth  Street,  which  Broadway  intersects  at  Union  Sq.,  is  one 
of  the  chief  arteries  of  cross-town  traffic  (tramway),  and  the  part  to  the 
W.  of  Broadway  contains  some  of  the  busiest  shops  in  the  city  and  pre- 
sents a scene  of  great  animation  and  variety.  To  the  E.,  between  Union 
Sq.  and  Third  Avenue,  are  Steinway  Hall  (no  longer  used  for  concerts),  the 
Academy  of  Music  (PI.  E,  3^  p.  18),  and  Tammany  Hall  (PI.  E,  3^  1867), 
the  seat  of  the  Tammany  Society,  which  was  established  in  1789  for  bene- 
volent purposes,  but  soondeveloped  into  a strong  political  (Democratic) 
institution  and  is  now  the  centre  of  the  party  of  local  politicians  named 
after  the  building.  The  nameis  a corruption  of  that  of  Tamenund,  a 
famous  Indian  seer  (see  ‘The  Last  of  the  Mohicans’,  by  Fenimore  Cooper, 
chap.  28),  and  the  officers  of  the  society  bear  the  Indian  titles  of  sachems 
and  the  like.  Its  ‘totem’  or  emblem  is  the  tiger. 

Broadway  between  Union  Sq.  and  Madison  Sq.  (p.  40)  is  one 
of  tbe  chief  shopping-resorts  of  New  York,  containing  many  fine 
stores  for  the  sale  of  furniture,  ‘dry  goods',  etc.  At  23rd  St.  it  inter- 

•J*  This  bend  is  said  to  have  originated  in  the  successful  attempt  of 
Hendrik  Brevoort,  a Dutch  tavern-keeper,  to  prevent  the  street  being  so 
laid  out  as  to  destroy  a fine  old  tree  that  stood  in  front  of  his  inn  (ca.  1800). 


40  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Broadway. 


sects  Fifth  Avenue  (p.  43)  and  at  the  point  of  intersection  stands 
the  daring  Fuller  Building,  generally  known  as  the  ‘Flat-iron 
Building’  (PI.  F,  3)  on  account  of  its  strange  triangular  shape.  It 
is  290  ft.  high,  has  20  stories,  and  cost  (including  site)  $ 4,000,000. 
At  close  view  this  building  can  hardly  be  described  as  beautiful; 
but  seen  from  a distance,  up  Fifth  Avenue,  it  resembles  the  prow  of 
a gigantic  ship  under  way  and  is  by  no  means  unimpressive.  The 
architects  were  D.  H.  Burnham  ^ Co.^  of  Chicago. 

This  building  has  a curious  effect  in  increasing  the  violence  of  the 
wind  at  its  apex,  so  that,  during  a storm,  people  are  sometimes  whirled 
off  the  side-walk  and  plate-glass  shop-windows  shivered. 

Broadway  now  skirts  theW.  side  of  *Madison  Square  (PI.  F,  3), 
a prettily  laid  out  public  garden,  containing  a bronze  * Statue  of 
Admiral  Farragut  (1801-70),  by  St.  Gaudens  (N.W.  corner),  an 
obelisk  to  the  memory  of  General  Worth  (1794-1849;  W.  side),  a 
Statue  ofRoscoe  Confeimgf  (1829-88),  by  J.Q.  A.  Ward(S.E.  corner),  a 
statue  of  President  Arthur  (1830-86),  by  G.  E.  Bissell  (N.E.  corner), 
and  a Statue  of  William  H,  Seward  (1801-72),  by  Randolph  Rogers 
(S.W.  angle).  The  statue  of  Farragut  is  the  finest  in  New  York, 
and  the  imaginative  treatment  of  the  pedestal  is  very  beautiful.  On 
the  W.  side  of  the  square  are  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel  (to  be  repla- 
ced by  a building  of  25  stories)  and  the  Hoffman  House  (p.  9). 

On  the  E.  side  (cor.  of  25th  St.)  is  the  new  *Appellate  Court 
House,  a handsome  building  by  J.  B.  Lord,  perhaps  somewhat  over- 
loaded with  plastic  ornamentation. 

On  the  balustrade  at  the  top  are  ten  statues  of  the  Great  Lawgivers. 
The  central  group  facing  Madison  Ave.  represents  Peace  (by  Kctrl  Bitter)^ 
while  the  corresponding  group  towards  25th  St.  represents  Justice  (by 
B.  G.  French).  The  bas-relief  in  the  pediment  (Law  vanquishing  Anarchy) 
is  by  Mehavs  The  seated  figures  of  Wisdom  and  Force,  at  the  entrance, 
are  by  Rucksiuhl.  The  other  sculptures  include  figures  of  the  Periods  of 
the  Day  and  of  the  Seasons.  — The  Interior  is  also  elaborately  adorned  with 
marble,  gilding,  oaken  panelling,  and  mural  paintings.  The  friezes  in  the 
Entrance  Hall  are  by  Metcalf  (left),  Mowbray  (centre),  and  Reid  (right). 
The  panels  in  the  Court  Room  are  by  Simmons  (left),  H.  0.  Walker  (centre), 
and  Blashfield  (right)  ; the  friezes  are  by  Kenyon  Cox.,  Lauber,  and  Maynard. 

At  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  square  are  the  Madison  Sq.  Presbyterian 
Church  (Rev.  Dr.  Parkhurst;  to  be  rebuilt  on  an  enlarged  scale,  with 
a massive  dome)  and  the  Metropolitan  Insurance  Building  (with  fine 
staircases  and  white  marble  court),  lately  enlarged  to  take  in  the 
whole  block,  and  at  the  N.E.  corner,  is  the  huge  Madison  Square 
Garden  (PI.  F,  3;  see  p.  49). 

Twenty-Third  Street,  to  the  W.  of  Broadway,  is  one  of  the  chief 
shopping-resorts  of  New  York,  and  its  wide  side-pavements  are  generally 
crowded  with  purchasers.  Perhaps  the  most  notable  shop  is  the  large  and 
fashionable  ‘dry  goods’  store  of  Stern  Brothers  (No.  32).  At  the  corner  of 
Sixth  Avenue  (p-  50)  is  the  imposing  Masonic  Temple  {V\.  F,  2),  containing 
a hall  to  seat  1200  persons.  Between  Seventh  and  Eighth  Avenues  are  the 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  (see  below ; N.  side)  and  the  lofty  Chelsea  Apartment  House  (S.  side), 
and  at  the  corner  of  the  latter  is  the  Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  F,  2^  pp.  19, 
50).  To  the  E.  of  Madison  Sq.  Twenty-Third  St.  runs  down  to  the  E.  River. 

The  substantial  building  of  the  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association 
(PI.  F,  2),  215  W.  23rd  St.,  was  erected  in  1903  at  a cost,  including  site, 


Broadway. 


NEW  YORK. 


Route,  41 


of  $ 750,000.  The  Young  Men’s  Christian  Association  of  the  City  of  New 
York,  organized  in  1852  and  incorporated  in  1866,  aims  at  the  spiritual, 
mental,  social,  and  physical  improvement  of  young  men  hy  the  support 
and  maintenance  of  lectures,  libraries,  reading-rooms,  social  and  religious 
meetings,  evening-classes,  gymnasiums,  and  athletic  grounds,  and  by  pro- 
viding attractive  places  of  safe  evening  resort.  In  addition  to  the  above- 
mentioned  structure  the  Association  owns  twelve  other  buildings  valued 
at  $ 1,500,000,  including  the  large  West  End  Branch  in  W.  57th  St.  with 
the  Association  Library  (50.000  vols.),  and  it  also  has  the  use  of  the  Rail- 
road Men’s  Building,  erected  by  the  late  Mr.  Cornelius  Vanderbilt  at  a cost 
of  about  $ 225,(XX),  of  two  other  buildings  for  railway  men,  and  of  Earl 
Hall,  erected  for  the  students  of  Columbia  University  by  Wm.  E.  Dodge 
(1805-83)  at  a cost  of  $ 175,000.  The  work  is  carried  on  at  thirty  different 
points.  The  aggregate  attendance  at  the  rooms  is  about  2,000,000  a year, 
and  strangers  are  always  welcome  as  visitors.  The  average  membership 
is  12,000;  the  annual  expenses  are  over  $205,000,  less  than  onequarter 
of  which  is  met  by  membership  fees,  the  balance  being  provided  by  gifts 
from  friends,  rentals,  and  other  sources.  — The  aggregate  membership  of 
the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  in  the  United  States  and  Canada  is  about  350,()00. 

Between  Madison  Square  and  42nd  St.  Broadway  passes  numerous 
theatres,  which  follow  each  other  in  rapid  succession  (see  p.  18). 
In  the  same  part  of  Broadway  are  many  large  and  fine  hotels.  At 
34th  St.  Broadway  crosses  Sixth  Avenue , passing  under  the  Ele- 
vated Railroad.  The  small  open  space  here,  with  statues  of  Horace 
Oreeley  (p.  36)  and  Wm.  E.  Dodge  (see  above),  is  known  as  Herald 
Square.  On  the  N.  is  the  two-storied  concrete  building  of  the  New 
York  Herald  (PI.  G,  2),  in  the  basement  of  which  the  powerful  Hoe 
printing-presses  are  seen  at  work.  To  the  W.,  at  the  corner  of 
34th  St. , is  Macy's  Departmental  Store  (p.  22),  an  enormous  build- 
ing, with  a large  restaurant  on  the  top  floor,  much  frequented  by 
ladies  and  somewhat  crowded  in  luncheon -hours.  Other  huge 
structures  are  in  progress  or  in  contemplation  at  this  point.  The 
Metropolitan  Opera  House  (PI.  G,  2j  p.  18),  opened  in  1883  and 
rebuilt  ten  years  later,  after  a fire,  stands  between  39th  St.  and 
40th  St.  At  the  corner  of  42nd  St.  stands  the  large  new  Knicker- 
bocker Hotel  (p.  10).  Seventh  Ave.  is  crossed  at  43rd  St.,  and  the 
space  at  the  point  of  intersection,  from  which  several  old  buildings 
have  been  removed,  is  known  as  Longacre  Square.  In  the  centre 
towers  the  new  building  of  the  New  York  Times ^ which  is  to  have 
26  stories,  with  a tower  above,  attaining  a total  height  of  375  ft. 
The  outside  walls  are  of  pink  granite  and  terracotta,  and  the  interior 
is  to  be  finely  fitted  up.  Beneath  it  is  a station  of  the  New  York 
Subway  (p.  14).  On  the  corner  of  44th  St.  rises  the  new  Hotel 
Astor  (p,  10),  said  to  have  cost  $ 5,000,000  (including  site).  Other 
big  buildings  are  projected  here,  and  the  square  is  becoming  more 
and  more  the  centre  of  club-  and  theatre-land. 

Beyond  Longacre  Square  Broadway  is  rather  uninteresting,  but 
there  are  some  lofty  specimens  of  apartment-houses  or  French  flats 
near  its  head.  At  the  corner  of  56th  St.  is  the  new  Broadway  Con- 
gregational Tabernacle  (PI.  H,  2),  and  at  No.  1634  (r.)  is  the  Ameri- 
can Horse  Exchange.,  the  Tattersall’s  of  New  York.  At  59th  St. 
Broadway  reaches  the  S.W,  corner  of  Central  Park  (p.  51)  and  inter- 


42  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Fifth  Avenue, 


sects  Eighth  Avenue.  At  the  intersection,  the  so-called  Circle, 
stands  the  Columbus  Monument  (PI.  I,  2),  by  Gaetano  Russo,  erec- 
ted in  1892  (the  400th  anniversary  of  the  discovery  of  America)  and 
consisting  of  a tall  shaft  surmounted  by  a marble  statue  (in  all,  77  ft. 
high).  [In  59th  St.,  close  to  the  Circle,  is  the  pretty  little  Bank 
of  Discount.]  Beyond  this  point  Broadway,  now  a wide  street  with 
rows  of  trees,  runs  towards  the  N.W.  to  Eleventh  Ave.,  with  which 
it  coincides  from  108th  St.  to  162nd.  This  part  of  it  is  usually 
known  as  the  Boulevard  and  passes  Columbia  University  (see  p.  62). 
From  162nd  St.  Broadway  (Kingsbridge  Road)  runs  on  to  Yonkers 
(p.  191). 


*Fifth  Avenue,  the  chief  street  in  New  York  from  the  stand- 
point of  wealth  and  fashion,  begins  at  Washington  Square  (see 
below),  to  the  N.  of  West  4th  St.  and  a little  to  the  W.  of  Broad- 
way, and  runs  N.  to  the  Harlem  River  (p.  64),  a distance  of  6 M. 
The  lowest  part  of  the  avenue  has  now  been  largely  invaded  by 
shops,  tall  office-buildings,  and  hotels,  but  above  47th  St.  it  consists 
of  handsome  private  residences,  forming,  perhaps,  as  imposing  a show 
of  affluence  and  comfort  as  is  to  be  seen  in  any  street  in  the  world. 
The  avenue  has  been  kept  sacred  from  the  marring  touch  of  the 
tramway  or  the  elevated  railroad,  but  it  is  traversed  by  a line  of 
‘stages’  or  omnibuses  (p.  16).  The  avenue  is  v/ide  and  well-paved ; 
many  of  the  buildings  are  of  brown  sandstone,  which  gives  parts  of 
it  a somewhat  monotonous  air.  On  a fine  afternoon  Fifth  Avenue  is 
alive  with  carriages  and  horsemen  on  their  way  to  and  from  Central 
Park  (comp.  p.  61),  and  it  is,  perhaps,  seen  at  its  best  on  a fine 
Sunday,  when  the  churches  are  emptying. 

Wasliington  Square  (PI.  B , 3) , pleasantly  laid  out  on  the  site  of  an 
old  burial-ground,  contains  a bronze  Statue  of  Garibaldi  (1807-82),  by 
Turini.  The  tasteful  Gothic  building  of  New  York  University,  erected  on 
the  E side  of  this  square  in  1832-35,  was  demolished  in  1894-95,  and  a 
large  office  building  was  erected  on  its  site,  of  which  the  upper  floors 
only  are  reserved  for  academic  purposes.  Here  are  located  the  Law 
School,  the  Graduate  School,  the  School  of  Commerce  and  Finance,  and 
the  School  of  Pedagogy,  the  last  interesting  as  the  first  school  of  pedagogy 
in  any  university  to  be  organized  on  an  equal  footing  with  the  other 
faculties.  [The  main  buildings  of  the  University  are  now  at  University 
Heights  (p.  68);  the  medical  department  is  in  E.  26th  St.]  On  the  S. 
side  of  the  square  are  the  Judson  Memorial  Buildings,  including  a church. 
On  the  N.  side  is  a row  of  substantial  old-time  residences,  which  still 
retain  an  air  of  undeniable  respectability  and  present,  perhaps,  the  most 
satisfying  specimen  of  domestic  architecture  in  the  city.  The  Washington 
Centennial  Memorial  Arch,  by  Stanford  ^Vhite,  spans  the  S.  entrance  of 
Fifth  Ave.  — University  Place,  skirting  Washington  Sq.  on  the  E.,  runs  to 
Union  Sq.  (p.  39). 

Following  Fifth  Avenue  to  the  N.  from  Washington  Sq.,  we  pass 
several  substantial  old  residences  and  the  Lafayette-Brevoort  House 
(p.  9;  cor.  of  8th  St.).  At  the  corner  of  10th  St.  is  the  Episcopal 
Church  of  the  Ascension  (with  good  stained -glass  windows  and  a 
fine  altar-piece  by  LaFarge),  and  at  12th  St.  is  the  First  Presbyterian 


Fifth  Avenue, 


NEW  YORK. 


Route.  43 


Churchy  botli  of  brown  stone,  with  square  towers.  In  crossing  the 
busy  14th  St.  (p.  39)  we  see  Union  Sq.  (p.  39)  to  the  right.  At 
16th  St.  is  the  tall  Judge  Building.  % 

In  15th  St.,  a little  to  the  W.  of  Fifth  Avenue,  is  the  large  building  of 
the  New  York  Hospital  (PI.  E,  3) ; to  the  E.  is  the  Young  Women's  Christian 
Association^  in  the  rear  of  which  (entr.  in  16th  St.)  is  the  Margaret  Louisa 
Home  (p.  9).  In  16th  St.,  but  extending  back  to  15th  St.,  are  the  ornate 
Church  and  College  of  St.  Francis  Xavier  (PI.  E , 2),  the  American  head- 
quarters of  the  Jesuits  (700  pupils). 

At  the  right  corner  of  18th  St.  is  the  substantial  Constable 
Building^  with  its  marble-lined  interior.  At  the  S.W.  corner  of 
20th  St.  (1.)  is  the  Methodist  Booh  Concern^  one  of  the  largest  book- 
houses  in  the  world  5 and  at  the  N.W.  corner  is  the  so-called  *Pres~ 
byterian  Building^  a solid  and  dignified  office  structure  by  J.  B. 
Baker.  This  section  of  Fifth  Ave.  is  the  district  par  excellence  of  the 
publishers  and  booksellers  and  contains  several  of  the  handsome 
shops  mentioned  at  p.  23.  At  23rd  St.  (p.  40)  the  Avenue  intersects 
Broadway  and  skirts  Madison  Sq.  (see  p.  40).  To  the  right  is  the 
curious  Flat-iron  Building  (p.  40).  At  26th  St.  is  the  Cafe  Martin 
(p.  11),  in  the  premises  long  occupied  by  Delmonico.  At  the  corner 
of  29th  St.  is  the  Marble  Collegiate  Church  (good  music;  vocal 
quartette),  opposite  which  is  the  Calumet  Club  (No.  267).  In 
29th  St.,  a little  to  the  E.,  is  the  odd-looking  Church  of  the  Trans- 
figuration (PI.  F,  3),  popularly  known  as  the  ‘Little  Church  round 
the  Corner’  and  containing  a memorial  window  (by  Lafarge)  to  Edwin 
Booth,  the  actor  (1833-93).  At  the  S.W.  corner  of  30th  St.  is  the  hand- 
some Holland  House  (p.  10).  The  Knickerbocker  Club  (p.  22)  stands 
at  the  corner  of  32nd  St.  (r.).  The  whole  block  between  33rd  and 
34th  Sts.,  to  the  left,  is  occupied  by  the  * Waldorf- Astoria  Hotel 
(p.  10),  a huge  double-building  of  red  brick  and  sandstone  in  a 
German  Renaissance  style.  The  restaurants  and  other  large  halls 
in  the  interior  are  freely  adorned  with  mural  paintings  by  American 
artists,  among  the  best  of  which  is  the  celling  (by  Blashfield)  of 
the  somewhat  over-decorated  ball-room  in  the  Astoria.  — At  the 
corner  of  34th  St.  is  the  large  building  of  the  Knickerbocker  Trust 
Co.,  at  35th  St.  (left)  is  the  New  York  Club  (p.  22),  at  37th  St. 
(S.E.)  is  the  new  Tiffany  Building  (by  McKim,  Mead,  & White),  and 
at  38th  St.  is  the  tall  Siebrecht  Building.  The  Union  League  Club 
(p.  22),  the  chief  Republican  club  of  New  York,  is  a handsome  and 
substantial  building  at  the  corner  of  39th  St.,  and  the  interior  is 
very  tastefully  fitted  up  (1880  members). 

Between  40th  St.  and  42nd  St.,  to  the  left,  on  the  site  of  the 
old  reservoir  of  the  Croton  Aqueduct,  is  slowly  rising  the  new  build- 
ing of  the  *New  York  Public  Library  (PI.  G,  3),  which  was  designed 
by  Messrs.  Carrere  ^ Hastings  and  will  be  one  of  the  greatest  archi- 
tectural monuments  of  the  city. 

The  Kew  York  Public  Library  is  formed  by  the  consolidation  of  the 
Lenox  and  Astor  Libraries;  the  Tilden  Trust  Fund  (about  $ 2,500,000 
bequeathed  by  Samuel  J.  Tilden  in  1886);  the  various  branches  of  the  New 


44  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Fifth  Avenue. 


York  Free  Circulating  Library  (added  in  1901);  four  other  small  free 
libraries : and  the  fund  of  $ 5,000,000  for  buildings  donated  by  Mr.  Andrew 
Carnegie.  The  Lenox  and  Astor  Libraries,  forming  the  reference  depart- 
ment are  still  housed  in  their  respective  buildings  (pp.  46,  38);  there  are 
18  branches  belonging  to  the  Circulating  Department;  and  the  first  of  the 
50  branch -buildings  of  Mr.  Carnegie’s  gift  has  been  opened  at  E. 
79th  St. 

The  consolidated  libraries  contain  nearly  1,000,000  volumes.  About 
21/4  million  iBooks  for  home  use  were  circulated  in  1902 ; and  more  than 
500,000  vols.  were  consulted  in  the  reading-rooms. 

A little  to  tReE.  of  this  point,  in  42nd  St.,  is  Grand  Central 
Station  (pp.  7,  48).  At  the  S.E.  corner  of  42nd  St.  rises  the  tasteful 
Columhia  Bank.  The  Temple  Emanu-El(Pl.  G,  3),  or  chief  synagogue 
of  New  York,  at  the  corner  of  43rd  St.,  is  a fine  specimen  of  Moorish 
architecture,  with  a richly  decorated  interior. 

In  W 43rd  Street  , between  Fifth  and  Sixth  Avenues,  to  the  right 
(N.),  is  the  Century  Club  (p.  22),  a Renaissance  structure,  with  a loggia  m 
the  second  story  and  ornamental  iron- work  over  sonae  of  the  win^ws. 
Adjoining  the  Century  Club  is  the  New  York  Academy  of  Medicine  (PL  G,  3), 
a substantial  and  handsom  eedifice,  with  a front  of  reddish-brown  stone, 
in  a semi-Egvptian  style.  Beyond  this  are  the  extensive  quarters  01  the 
Racquet  Club  (p.  22).  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  is  The  Renaissance^ 
a handsome  and  select  apartment-house. 

At  the  N.E.  corner  of  44th  St.  is  Delmonico's  Restaurant  (p.  11), 
a substantial  building  with  elaborate  ornamention ; and  at  the  S.W. 
corner  is  Sherry's  (p.  11) 5 ^ rival  establishment,  equally  patronized 

by  the  fashionable  world  (fine  ball-room). 

W.  44th  Street,  between  Fifth  Avenue  and  Broadway,  contains  several 
buildings  of  note.  These  include,  on  the  right,  the  St.  Nicholas  Club  (No.  7), 
the  Brearley  School  for  Girls  (17),  the  American  InsHtuie  ( Berkeley 
10-23),  the  Vaudeville  Theatre  (p.  19),  the  Harvard  Club  {y.  22;  27),  the 
New  hrk  Yacht  Club  (p.  22;  No.  37;  perhaps  the  most  luxurious  yacht- 
club  in  the  world,  but  with  a curious  ‘freak’  of  a facade),  the  Hudson 
Theatre  (p.  19),  and  the  Criterion  Theatre  (p.  19);  mi  the  left,  ^ 

above),  the  Mechanics'  InHiiute  (p.  23;  16-24).  the  Yale 

Bar  Association  Library  (42),  and  the  University  of  Pennsylvania  Club  (44).  ihe 
other  buildings  include  some  large  apartment-hotels. 

Between  45th  St.  and  46th  St.  (r.)  is  the  elaborately  decorated 
Church  of  the  Heavenly  Rest  (PI.  G,  3).  Between  46th  St.  and  47th 
St. , to  the  right,  is  the  Windsor  Arcade.  The  Dutch  Reformed 
Church,  at  the  corner  of  48th  St.,  is  one  of  the  handsomest  and 
m-ost  elaborately  adorned  ecclesiastical  edifices  in  the  city.  It  is  in 
the  14th  cent,  or  Decorated  Gothic  style  and  has  a crocheted  spire, 
270  ft.  high.  Just  below  50th  St.,  on  the  right,  is  the  Democratic 
Club  (p.  22),  the  stronghold  of  Tammany  (p.  39). 

Between  50th  and -51st  Sts.  (PI.  H,  3),  to  the  right,  stands  *St. 
Patrick’s  Cathedral  (R.C.),  an  extensive  building  of  white  marble, 
in  the  Decorated  Gothic  style,  and  the  most  important  ecclesiastical 
edifice  in  the  United  States.  It  is  400  ft.  long,  125  ft.  wide,  and  11 2ft. 
high  5 the  transept  is  180  ft.  across,  and  the  two  beautiful  spires  are 
332  ft.  high.  The  building,  which  was  designed  by  James  Renwick, 
was  erected  in  1850-79,  at  a cost  of  $ 3,500,000  (700,000L).  ^ 

The  Interior,  which  seems  a little  short  in  proportion  to  its  height, 
is  dignified  and  imposing,  and  the  fact  that  all  the  windows  are  filled  with 


Fifth  Avenue. 


NEW  YORK. 


Route.  45 


good  modern  stained  glass  adds  to  the  effect.  The  Transepts  are  shallow. 
The  massive  white  marhle  columns  supporting  the  roof  are  35  ft.  high. 
The  altars  and  church-furniture  are  very  elaborate.  There  are  seats  for 
3000  persons,  and  standing-room  for  5000  more.  The  Lady  Chapel.^  abutting 
on  Madison  Ave.,  was  added  in  1803. 

Adjoining  the  cathedral,  to  the  right,  is  the  handsome  new 
building  of  the  Union  Club  (p.  22).  Between  51st  and  52nd  Sts. 
(PI.  H,  3),  to  the  left,  are  the  homes  of  Mr.  George  W.  Vanderbilt 
and  Mr,  W.  B.  Sloane  (son-in-law  of  the  late  Mr.  W.  H.  Vander- 
bilt), two  brownstone  mansions,  closely  resembling  each  other  and 
united  by  a connecting  passage.  They  are  adorned  with  exquisite 
bands  and  plaques  of  carving,  which,  however,  are  scarcely  seen 
well  enough  to  be  properly  appreciated.  The  railings  which  sur- 
round them  are  a fine  specimen  of  metal  work.  The  Indiana- 
stone  house  above  these,  at  the  corner  of  52nd  St.,  in  a more  varied 
and  striking  style,  is  the  ^Residence  of  Mr.  W.  K,  Vanderbilt^  by 
R.  M.  Hunt  (p.  47).  It  resembles  a French  chateau  of  the  transi- 
tional period  (15-16th  cent.).  The  carving  on  the  doorway  and 
window  above  it  almost  challenges  comparison  with  the  finest  work 
of  the  kind  in  European  churches.  At  the  N.W.  corner  of  57th  St. 
is  the  house  of  the  late  Mr.  Cornelius  Vanderbilt.,  by  George  B.  Post, 
a red  brick  edifice  with  grey  facings,  in  the  French  chateau  style 
of  the  16-17th  cent.,  with  a huge  ball-room. 

St.  Thomases  Church  (Epis. ; PI.  H,  3),  at  53rd  St.,  contains 
fine  interior  decorations  by  La  Farge  and  an  altar-piece  by  St.  Gau- 
dens  (good  choir).  To  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  54th  St.,  is  the 
handsome  new  building  of  the  University  Club  (adorned  with  carv- 
ings of  the  seals  of  eighteen  American  colleges),  and  nearly  opposite 
is  the  tasteful  residence  of  ex~Oovernor  Morton,  both  by  McKim, 
Mead,  & White.  The  large  building  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  55th  St. 
is  the  new  St.  Regis  Hotel  (p.  10).  The  Fifth  Avenue  Presbyterian 
Church  (PI.  H,  3;  N.W.  cor.)  is  probably  the  largest  in  the  world  of 
this  denomination,  and  has  one  of  the  loftiest  spires  in  the  city. 

Fifty- Seventh  St..,  both  to  the  E.  and  W.  of  Fifth  Avenue,  contains 
several  very  striking  facades,  which  the  student  of  modern  domestic  archi- 
tecture should  not  fail  to  see.  Other  interesting  windows,  porches,  and 
gables  may  be  seen  in  34th,  36th,  37th,  and  other  streets  near  Fifth  Avenue. 

At  59th  St.  (PI.  I,  3),  where  Fifth  Avenue  reaches  Central  Park 
(p.  51),  are  three  huge  hotels:  the  Plaza  (p.  10;  1.),  the  Savoy 
(p.  10;  r.),  and  the  Netherland  (p.  10;  r.).  In  the  middle  of  the 
‘Plaza’  rises  a fine  equestrian  Statue  ojf  General  Sherman  (1820-91 ; 
see  pp.  419,  440),  by  St.  Gaudens,  erected  in  1903. 

In  59th  street,  facing  Central  Park,  are  the  De  la  Salle  Institute,  the 
Deutscher  Verein  (German  Club),  the  Catholic  Club,  and  the  fine  row  of  the 
Navarro  or  Central  Parle  Apartment  Houses,  named  after  the  chief  towns 
of  Spain. 

Between  59th  and  110th  Sts.  Fifth  Avenue  skirts  the  E.  side 
of  Central  Park,  having  buildings  on  one  side  only.  Among  these, 
many  of  which  are  very  handsome,  may  be  mentioned  the  white 
marble  Metropolitan  Club  (PI.  I,  3),  at  the  corner  of  60th  St.;  the 


46  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Fifth  Avenue. 


Astor  House^  N.E.  corner  of  65tli  St. ; the  Havemeyer  House.,  corner 
of  66th  St. ; the  Qould  House,  corner  of  67th  St. ; the  Yerkes  House 
(S.E.),  with  its  fine  picture-gallery  (p.  20),  and  the  Whitney 
House  (N.E. ; fine  interior),  corner  of  68th  St.-,  the  "^'Synagogue 
Beth-El  (PI.  K,  3),  corner  of  76th  St.;  the  House  of  Senator  Clark, 
at  the  corner  of  77th  St.;  the  *Brokaw  House,  corner  of  79th  St.; 
the  House  of  Mr,  Andrew  Carnegie,  with  its  garden,  at  the  corner 
of  91st  St.;  and  the  Mt.  Sinai  Hospital  (PI.  M,  3),  between  100th 
and  101st  Sts. 

Between  70th  and  71st  Sts.  is  the  *Lenox  Library  (PI.  I,  K,  3), 
built  and  endowed  by  Mr.  James  Lenox  (1800-1880),  who  also  pre- 
sented the  ground  on  which  it  stands  and  most  of  its  contents. 
The  building,  erected  in  1870-77,  is  of  light-coloured  limestone, 
with  projecting  wings.  Adm.,  see  p.  22.  Guides  to  the  Paintings 
and  Sculptures,  each  10  c. ; to  the  Prints  50  c. 

Tlie  Library  proper  consists  of  about  150,000  volumes.  It  is  rich  in 
American  history  (including  the  library  of  George  Bancroft,  the  historian), 
musical  works  (largely  bequeathed  by  Mr.  J.  W.  Drexel),  and  books  relating 
to  Shakspeare  and  the  Bible.  It  is  a free  reference-library,  now  forming 
part  of  the  New  York  Public  Library  (see  p.  43). 

The  Vestihule  and  Central  Hall  (groundfloor)  contain,  under  glass,  col- 
lections of  books  and  MSS.  belonging  to  the  library  and  frequently  changed. 
Among  the  chief  treasures  are  the  Mazarin  Bible  (Gutenberg  & Fust,  ca. 
1455:  prob.  the  first  book  printed  with  movable  types);  Coverdale's  Bible 
(1535):  Tyndale's  Pentateuch  (1530)  and  Ae^^;  Testament  Eliot's  Indian 

Bible;  the  first  editions  of  The  Pilgrim's  Progress,  The  Complete  ;^ngUr, 
Paradise  Lost,  Comus,  and  Lycidas ; two  copies  of  the  Fir  si  Folio  Shak- 
speare  (1623),  and  also  copies  of  the  Second,  Third,  and  Fourth  Folios 
(1632,  1663-4.  1685):  the  Biblia  Pauper um  (ca.  1430)  and  other  block-books; 
eight  works  from  the  press  of  William  Caxton  (1475-90);  the  Bay  Psalm 
Book,  the  first  book  printed  in  the  United  States  (Cambridge,  1640);  th^e 
Doctrina  Christiana,  printed  in  Mexico  in  1544;  a magnificent  velluni  MS. 
lectionary  of  the  Gospels,  with  illuminations  and  miniatures  by  Giulio 
Clovio  ; the  original  MS.  of  Washington's  Farewell  Address ; and  various  books, 
MSS.,  and  maps  relating  to  the  discovery  of  America.  The  vestibule  also 
contains  most  of  the  Sculptures  belonging  to  the  library,  including  works 
by  Hiram  Powers  (No.  14)  and  Gibson  (15)  and  four  ancient  Roman  busts. 

The  Picture  Gallery,  on  the  first  floor,  comprises  works  by  A. 
Sarto,  F.  E.  Church,  A.  Bierstadt,  Sir  David  Wilkie,  John  Constable,  Sir  H. 
Raeburn,  Meissonier,  Munkaesy,  Sir  J.  Reynolds,  Verboeckhoven,  Gilbert  Stuart , 
Sir  E.  Landseer,  Horace  Vernet,  Copley,  Gainsborough,  Turner,  E.  Zamacois, 
etc.  Those  transferred  from  the  Astor  Library  are  distinguished  by  yellow 
labels.  — The  picture  gallery  also  contains  works  by  Sir  John  Steel 
(Nos.  12,  13)  and  Barrias  (8)  and  a few  other  sculptures. 

The  *Stuart  Collections,  bequeathed  by  Mrs.  Robert  L.  Stuart  (d.  1892), 
along  with  a sum  of  $300, COO,  occupy  a gallery  over  theN.  wing.  They 
include  a library  of  10,000  vols.  and  240  modern  paintings,  comprising 
works  by  Girdme,  Corot,  Rosa  Bonheur,  Troy  on,  Meissonier,  Detaille,  Bou- 
guereau,  Fiber t,  Diaz,  Munkaesy,  Brozik,  Clays,  Koekkoek,  Verboeckhoven,  Knaus, 
Meyer  von  Bremen,  Cropsey,  Kensett,  Church,  Cole,  Inness,  J.  A.  Walker , Q.ic. 

The  mezzanine  floor  is  devoted  to  the  large  and  valuable  collections 
of  Prints  and  MSS.  The  MSS.  include  the  Emmett  o/^N., 

comprising  about  10,000  MSS.  relating  to  American  history  61750-loUU);  the 
Bancroft  MSS. ; the  Hardwicke  MSS. ; and  the  Spanish- American  Mbb.  trom 
the  Ternaux  and  Kingsborough  Collections.  The  prints  include  the  Samuel 
P.  Avery  Collection  (18,000  prints),  given  in  1900  and  consisting  mainly 
of  French  and  other  modern  etchings  and  lithographs;  the  American  Wood 


Fourth  Avenue. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Boute.  47 


Engravings  given  by  Messrs.  Scribner's  Sons  and  The  Century  Co. ; the  Charles 
Stewart  Smith  Collection  of  Japanese  Colour  Prints;  the  Maitland  Collection 
of  Dutch  caricatures  ^ special  collections  of  the  works  of  Durcmd.,  Smillie, 
and  Parley;  and  many  portraits,  views,  and  historical  prints  arranged 
according  to  subjects.  Exhibitions  are  held  regularly  in  the  Print  Galleries. 

The  Bible  Collection  (on  the  top  floor),  comprising  about  8000  vols., 
consists  of  the  editions  gathered  by  Mr.  Lenox  and  the  library  of  the 
American  Bible  Society  (p.  38).  It  is  not  open  to  the  public. 

In  FiftE  Avenue,  opposite  the  Lenox  Library,  is  the  Memorial 
to  R.  M.  Hunt  (pp.  45,  54),  the  architect,  designed  by  D.  C.  French 
and  presented  to  the  city  in  1898  by  various  art-societies.  It  con- 
sists of  a semicircular  bench,  recessed  in  the  wall  of  Central  Park, 
with  a bust  of  Hunt  and  graceful  female  figures. 

In  Central  Park,  close  to  Fifth  Avenue  at  82nd  St.,  is  the  Me- 
tropolitan Museum  of  Art  (p.  54). 

At  120th  St.  Fifth  Avenue  reaches  Mount  Moeris  Souare  (PI. 
0,  3),  the  mound  in  the  centre  of  which  commands  good  views.  Be- 
yond Mt.  Morris  Sq.  the  avenue  is  lined  with  handsome  villas,  some 
of  them  surrounded  by  gardens.  It  ends,  amid  tenements  and  small 
shops,  at  the  Harlem  River  (140th  St. ; PI.  P,  3). 

Fourth.  Avenue  diverges  from  Third  Avenue  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  Bowery  and  at  first  runs  N.  towards  Union  Sq.  (p.  39),  passing 
the  Cooper  Union  (p.  38)  and  the  Bible  House  (p.  38).  At  Union 
Sq.  it  turns  N.E.  At  the  corner  of  18th  St.  is  the  Florence  Apart- 
ment House  ^ at  19th  St.  is  the  American  Lithographic  Co.^  at 
20th  St.  (r.)  is  All  Souls  Unitarian  Church.^  and  at  21st  St.  is  Cal- 
vary Church.  The  group  of  notable  buildings  at  the  intersection  of 
22nd  St.  (PI.  F,  3)  includes  the  Church  Mission  House  (S.E.),  the 
United  Charities  Building  (N.E.;  by  Jas.  B.  Baker),  the  tasteful  Bank 
for  Savings  (S.W.),  and  the  Fourth  Ave.  Presbyterian  Church  (N.W.). 
The  United  Charities  Building  was  presented  by  Mr.  John  S.  Kennedy 
to  the  Children’s  Aid  Society  (p.  36),  the  N.Y.  City  Mission  & Tract 
Society,  the  Association  for  Improving  the  Condition  of  the  Poor, 
and  the  Charity  Organization  Society.  At  the  N.W.  corner  of  23rd 
St.,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Academy  of  Design  (comp.  p.  51),  is 
a new  and  ornate  office-building,  forming  an  expansion  of  that 
of  the  Metropolitan  Insurance  Co.  (p.  40).  Opposite,  at  the  S.W. 
corner,  is  another  substantial  pile  of  office-buildings  on  the  old  site 
of  the  Y.  M.  0.  A.  (see  p.  40).  — s At  27th  St.,  to  the  left,  extend- 
ing back  to  Madison  Avenue  (p.  49),  is  Madison  Square  Garden 
(see  p.  49).  To  the  right,  at  33rd  St.,  stands  the  huge  Armoury  of 
-Regiment,  National  Guard  of  New  York,  burned  down  in 
1902  but  since  re-erected;  and  to  the  left  is  the  Park  Avenue  Hotel 
(p.  10).  At  34th  St.  Fourth  Avenue  assumes  the  name  of  *Park 
Avenue,  and  the  portion  of  it  between  this  point  and  42nd  St. 
forms  one  of  the  handsomest  streets  of  the  city.  The  Fourth  Avenue 
tramway^  line  is  here  relegated  to  a subway  below  the  street,  and 
the  ventilating  openings  are  surrounded  with  small  gardens  which 


48  Route  2.  NEW  YORK.  Park  Avenue. 

give  a cheerful  and  pleasant  air  to  the  thoroughfare,  here  140  ft. 
wide.  Below  the  tramway-subway  is  the  tunnel  of  the  New  York 
Subway  (p.  14),  and  below  that  again  is  to  be  the  tunnel  the  Penn- 
sylvania R.  R.  Co.  is  constructing  across  New  York  to  connect  with 
tunnels  under  the  N.  River  (see  p.  27)  and  the  E.  River.  On  the 
W.  side  of  the  avenue  stands  the  Unitarian  * Church  of  the  Messiah 
(34th  St.).  At  40th  St.  is  the  Murray  Hill  Hotel  (p.  10). 

^ This  part  of  Park  Avenue  traverses  the  aristocratic  quarter  of  Murray 
Hill,  hounded  by  Third  and  Sixth  Avenues,  32nd  St.,  and  45th  St.  The 
Murray  Mansion,  which  gave  name  to  the  district,  has  disappeared:,  but 
a tablet  in  the  small  garden  (see  above)  near  37th  St.  commemorates  its 
mistress,  Mrs.  Lindley  Murray. 

At  42nd  St.  Park  Avenue  is  interrupted  by  the  Grand  Central 
Station  (Pl.Gr,  3;  see  p.  7),  the  main  building  of  which,  practically 
rebuilt  in  1900,  occupies  the  whole  area  between  the  lines  of  Park 
Avenue,  Vanderbilt  Avenue,  42nd  St.,  and  45th  St. 

This  enormous  railway-station,  constructed  of  steel,  with  grey  stucco 
facades,  is  nearly  700  ft.  long  and  240  ft.  wide,  and  is  covered  with  an 
ir6n  and  glass  roof,  110  ft  high,  with  a span  of  200  ft.  The  above  dimen- 
sions  2ir6  6xcliisiv0  of  adilition  to  tli6  E,  of  tlic  line  of  Pa^rk  Avenue^ 
used  by  incoming  trains.  The  large  new  waiting  hall  is  handsome  and 
most  conveniently  arranged.  About  350  trains  (1400  cars)  arrive  at  and 
leave  the  station  daily.  It  contains  19  tracks,  12  for  outgoing  and  7 for 
incoming  trains. 

For  the  next  ten  blocks  or  so  Park  Avenue,  or  what  would  other- 
wise be  Park  Avenue , is  occupied  by  the  various  lines  of  railway 
issuing  from  the  Grand  Central  Station,  but  at  49th  St.,  where  the 
Women’s  Hospital  (closed)  rises  to  the  right,  the  avenue  begins  to 
re-assert  itself,  and  higher  up  the  railway  burrows  underneath 
through  a series  of  tunnels.  Above  57th  St.,  where  the  street  is 
very  wide , Park  Avenue  may  again  claim  to  be  one  of  the  finest 
thoroughfares  of  New  York,  and  here,  as  lower  down,  the  openings 
of  the  tunnels  are  pleasantly  hidden  by  small  gardens.  At  the  cor- 
ner of  59th  St.,  to  the  right,  rises  the  large  yellow  building  of  the 
Arion,  a German  club.  Among  the  numerous  lofty  piles  of  flats  is 
the  Yosemite,  at  the  S.W.  corner  of  62nd  St.  Between  66th  and 
67th  Sts.,  to  the  right,  is  the  large  Armoury  of  the  Seventh  Regi- 
ment (PI.  I,  3),  the  fashionable  regiment  of  New  York.  The  armoury 
is  very  finely  fitted  up*,  the  huge  drill-hall  is  300  ft.  long  and 
200  ft.  wide.  At  the  adjacent  corner  is  the  Hahnemann  Hospital. 
The  Normal  College  (PL  I,  3),  between' 68th  and  69th  Sts.,  is  a 
spacious  building  in  an  ecclesiastical  Gothic  style , with  a lofty 
square  tower  (2900  female  pupils).  To  the  left  are  the  Union 
Theological  Seminary  and  (70th  St.)  the  Presbyterian  Hospital,  an 
effective  building,  extending  back  to  Madison  Aye.  (see  p.  49).  The 
*Freundschaft  Club,  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  72nd  St.,  has  an  interior 
fitted  up  in  a style  worthy  of  its  fine  exterior.  At  the  corner  of 
77th  St.  is  the  German  Hospital.  Another  great  Armoury  (8th  Regi- 
ment) crowns  the  hill  at  94th  St.  The  avenue  reaches  the  Harlem 
River  at  134th  St.,  near  the  bridge  of  the  Hudson  River  Railway. 


Madison  Avenue, 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  49 

Lexington  Avenue,  beginning  at  Gramercy  Park  and  running 
N.  to  the  Harlem  River  (131st  St.)  between  Third  and  Fourth 
Avenues,  also  contains  a number  of  large  and  important  buildings. 
Among  these  are  the  old  building  of  the  College  of  the  City  of  New 

C2400  students;  library 
n ^^il4ing,  see  p.  64)  ; the  Hospital  for  Cripples 

(PI.  G,  o),  42nd  St. ; the  Association  for  the  Improved  Instruction 
of  Deaf-Mutes,  at  the  corner  of  67th  St.;  the  Hydriatic  Institute 
at  the  corner  of  72nd  St. ; and  the  Synagogues  at  the  corners  of 
00th,  63rd,  and  72nd  Sts. 

Between  Fourth  and  Fifth  Avenues , and  parallel  with  them 
runs  ^Madison  Avenue,  beginning  at  Madison  Sq.  (p.  40)  and 
ending  at  138th  St.  on  the  Harlem  River.  Hitherto  uninvaded  by 
shops,  it  forms  one  of  the  finest  streets  of  private  houses  in  New 
York,  rivalling  even  Fifth  Avenue  in  the  splendour  of  its  residences. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  avenue  , at  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  square 
and  occupying  a whole  block,  is  Madison  Square  Garden  (PI.  F 3) 
a huge  erection  425  ft.  long  and  200  ft.  wide  (see  p.  19).  The 
building  includes  the  Garden  Theatre  (p.  19).  The  tower  is  a 
copy  of  the  Giralda  at  Seville  (see  Baedeker's  Spain) ; at  the  ton 
■f  I^iana,  by  St.  Gaudens.  — At  the  N.E.  corner  of  36th 

St.  IS  the  brown  stone  house  of  Mr.  J.  Pierpont  Morgan,  to  which  a 
large  art-gallery  is  to  be  added.  — Madison  Avenue  crosses  42nd  St. 
just  above  the  Grand  Central  Station  (p.  48)  and  beyond  this  point 
IS  traversed  by  tramway  - cars.  At  the  N.W.  corner  of  42nd  St. 
towers  the  16-story  Manhattan  Hotel  (p.  10),  which  cost  $ 2,500  000  * 
at  44th  St.  is  the  Church  of  St.  Bartholomew  (Pi.  G,  3),  in  the  Italian 
style,  with  elaborate  bronze  doors  presented  by  Mrs.  Cornelius 
Vanderbilt;  and  at  45th  St.  is  the  Railroad  Branch  of  the  Y.  M,  C.  A, 
(p.  40).  At  the  N.E.  corner  of  50th  St.,  forming  three  sides  of  a 
hollow  square,  are  the  huge  Villard  Mansions,  occupied  by  several 
families.  Opposite,  at  the  back  of  St.  Patrick’s  Cathedral  (p  44)  is 
the  House  of  the  Archbishop  of  New  YorkfR.  C.).  At  70th  St.,  behind 
the  Lenox  Library  (p.  46),  is  the  Presbyterian  Hospital  (p.  48). 

At  the  N.W.  corner  of  72nd  St.  rises  the  ^Tiffany  House  (PI.  K 3) 

by  McKim,  Mead,  ^ White,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and  strikiiiff 
residences  in  America.  ° 

lowest  story  is  of  stone,  the  upper  stories  of  light-coloured  brick 
The  entrance  facing  72nd  St. , is  under  a large  archway,  guarded  bv  a 
f ^ recessed  balcony,  and  at  the  ‘S.E^.  corner  is  a 
reaching  to  the  eaves  of  the  high-pitclied  roof.  Towards 

formTrstlefo'*uV,?®^“  lofty  gable.  The  space  under  the  roof 

prf  spac-ous  Studio,  containing  an  interesting  collection  of  objects  of 
art,  and  is  very  tastefully  fitted  up  (adm.  only  by  private  introduction). 

Beyond  this  point  Madison  Avenue  consists  of  rows  of  hand- 
dwelling-houses  and  apartments. 

do  not  traverse  Manhattan  IslandVrom  S.  to  N. 

a detailed  description.  First,  Second,  and  Third  Avenues 
consi  t mainly  of  tenement  houses  and  small  retail-shops,  while  the  trenUy 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  ^ 


50  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Sixth  Avenue. 


of  the  last  two  is  not  enhanced  by  the  elevated  railroads  which  follow 
their  course.  In  First  Avenue,  between  27th  and  28th  Sts.,  is  the  Medical 
School  of  Cornell  University  (p.  236),  established  in  1898  through  the  muni- 
ficence of  Col.  O.  H.  Payne.  Second  Avenue  is  not  joined  by  the  railway 
till  23rd  St.  (see  p.  13).  At  the  corner  of  13th  St.  is  the  new  Eye  & Ear 
Infirmary  (PI.  E,  4).  At  E.  15th  St.  the  avenue  crosses  Stuyvesant  Sqdaee 
(PI.  E,  4),  with  the  large  Church  of  St.  George  (polychrome  interior).  At 
ITth  St.  is  the  well-equipped  Lying-in  Hospital.,  erected  at  the  expense  of  Mr. 
J.  P.  Morgan.  — At  the  corner  of  llth  St.  is  the  building  of  the  New  York 
Historical  Society  (PI.  E,  4),  founded  in  1804  (adm.,  see  p.  26).  In  the 
basement  is  the  Lenox  Collection  of  Assyrian  Marlles.,  from  Nineveh.  On 
the  first  floor  are  the  Hall.,  Committee  Rooms.,  etc.  The  second  floor  con- 
tains the  Library  of  100,000  vols.,  mainly  relating  to  the  history  of  America. 
On  the  third  floor  is  the  Abbott  Collection  of  Egyptian  Antiquities  (inch  three 
mummies  of  the  Sacred  Bull).  The  Gallery  of  Art,  on  the  fourth  floor, 
contains  about  900  works,  which  are  not  shown  to  advantage  and  include 
many  of  little  value.  Among*  those  worthy  of  note  are  examples  of  Lar- 
gilli^re,  Chardin,  Greuze,  Rigaud,  Ph.  de  Champaigne,  Hobbema  (*Land- 
scape),  G.  Poussin,  J.  van  der  Meer,  Eechhout,  Victors,  Brouwer,  Teniers, 
Snyders,  Mazzolini  (St.  Jerome),  Bramantino  (Crucifixion),  Roger  van  der 
Weyden  (? Crucifixion),  and  a pupil  of  Leon,  da  Vinci  (Madonna).  On  the 
staircase  and  in  the  vestibule  are  numerous  Portraits.  (A  site  fora  new 
building  has  been  secured  in  Central  Park  West.)  — At  the  corner  of  Third 
Avenue  and  llth  St.  is  the  Court  for  Juvenile  Offenders,  an  interesting  experi- 
ment inaugurated  on  Sept.  2nd,  1902.  Daring  thefirst  year  of  its  existence 
7447  children  were  arraigned  here,  of  whom  4368  were  convicted. 

[St.  Marie's  Church,  in  Stuyvesant  Place,  leading  from  E.  10th  St.  to 
Astor  Place,  stands  near  the  site  of  the  ^Bowerie’  or  farm-house  of  Gov- 
ernor Stuyvesant  (comp.  p.  36)  and  contains  his  tombstone  (E.  wall  \ 
from  an  older  chapel)  and  other  old  monuments.  Governor  Stuyvesanfs 
Pear  Tree,  which  he  planted  in  1644  as  a memorial  ‘by  which  his  name 
might  still  be  remembered’,  stood  for  200  years  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  Third 
Ave.  and  13th  St.  (memorial  t iblet).] 

At  the  foot  of  E.  28th  St.,  a little  to  the  E.  of  First  Avenue,  is  the 
extensive  Bellevue  Hospital  (PI.  F,  4);  and  in  the  same  street,  to  the 
W.  of  Third  Avenue,  is  St.  Stephen's  (R.C.),  containing  some  good  paint- 
ings and  an  elaborate  altar-piece. 

Sixth  Avenue,  the  route  of  a W.  side  elevated  railway,  begins  at 
Carmine  St.,  to  the  S.W.  of  Washington  Square,  and  ends  at  Central  Park 
r59th  St.).  It  is  one  of  the  chief  seats  of  retail  trade  in  New  York,  con- 
taining several  of  the  largest  ‘dry  goods’  and  other  shops,  among  them 
the  enormous  premises  of  the  Siegel- Cooper  Co.  (PI.  E.  2^  between  18th  and 
19th  Sts.).  Its  prolongation  beyond  the  park  is  known  as  Lenox  Avenue. 
Among  the  chief  buildings  it  passes  are  the  ^Jefferson  Market  Police  Court, 
at  10th  St.,  the  Greenwich  Savings  Bank,  at  16th  St.,  the  Masonic  Temple, 
cor.  of  23rd  St.  (p.  40),  and  the  Manhattan  Theatre  (p  19).  Statue  of  Horace 
Greeley,  at  the  intersection  of  Broadway,  see  p-  41.  At  41st  St.  the  avenue 
skirts  the  pretty  little  Bryant  Park  (PI.  G,  3),  with  a statue  of  Br.  J.  Marion 
Sims  (1813-83)  and  a colossal  bust  of  Washington  Irving  (p.  30).  — Seventh 
and  Eighth  Avenues,  in  their  lower  part,  may  almost  be  called  W.  side 
editions  of  Second  and  Third  Avenues  minus  the  elevated  railroad.  Among 
the  few  conspicuous  buildings  are  the  State  Arsenal,  at  the  corner  of  Seventh 
Avenue  and  35th  St.;  the  ''Carnegie  Music  Hall  (PI.  H,  I,  2),  at  the  corner  of 
Seventh  Ave.  and  67th  St. ; and  the  Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  F,  2;  p.  19),  in 
Eighth  Avenue,  at  the  corner  of  23rd  St  In  W.  42nd  St.,  near  Seventh  Ave., 
is  the  New  Amsterdam  Theatre  (p.  19),  with  sculptures  on  its  facade.  The 
part  of  Eighth  Ave  skirting  the  W.  side  of  Central  Park,  and  known  as 
Central  Park  West,  has  many  large  apartment  houses,  fine  churches,  and 
other  important  buildings.  At  the  corner  of  63rd  St.  is  the  new  red  brick 
structure  of  the  Ethical  Culture  School,  at  65th  St.  is  Holy  Trinity  Church 
(Lutheran) , and  at  68th  St.  is  the  white  marble  Temple  of  the  Christian 
Scientists.  At  the  corner  of  72nd  St.  are  the  huge  Majestic  Hotel  and  the 
Dakota  Flats  (PI.  K,  2),  conspicuous  in  many  views  of  the  city.  Between 


Central  Park, 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  51 


Ce*ntral'^pfrk  pthth^J  the  Divine  Paternity  (Vv^iveesaXisi).  Above 

mn?h  A^ue^i:-  l!o tbT?"  ™ 

«aA  'at  Protestant  Episcopal  Theological  %mi- 

nary  ; at  34th  St.  is  the  New  York  Institution  for  the  BUnd  ■ and  at  Wth  St 

Church  ouhe  ’^t  fXl'. 

s.  £s^,^sr,'arf,“&  ffE'u 

Avenue,  which  takes  the  name  of  Amsterdam  Avenue  at  59th  St  contairm 

JtTw'i/pf"  • ' ®‘-  j“«*  ‘0  *>*«  E.  of  the  avenue  "s  the 

College  of  Phgstczans  and  Surgeons  (p.  62).  In  W.  65th  St.,  near  Amsterdam 

new^*yA.^cJoo;  of  Commerce.  At  the  corner  of  109th  St 
IS  the  site  of  the  new  buildmg  of  the  Academy  of  Design,  one  of  the  r*hipf 
art-institutions  of  the  United  States,  corresponding  t^simrextent  wUh 

ind  A.ToeirtI  A n”a?’  “ft**”® 

ana  Associates  (A.  N.  A.).  The  Schools  of  Art  (temporarv  premises  herp^ 
a excellent  service.  Exhibitions  see  n 20 

The  great  promenade  and  open-air  resort  of  New  York  is  *Cen- 
tralPark  (PI.  I-N  2,  3)  occupying  the  centre  of  Manhattan  Is- 
land  between  59th  and  110th  Sts.,  covering  840  acres  of  ground, 
and  2 /a  M.  long  by  1/2  M.  wide.  It  was  designed  in  1858  hy 

(d,000,000f  ).  The  ground  was  originally  a tract  of  swamp  and 
rock  and  its  transformation  into  one  of  the  most  beautiful  parks 
in  the  world  is  an  important  monument  of  American  skill  and  per- 
severance. ^ 

tinHHtv*^^.^!,®.^  1“  substituting  a mul- 

small  picturesque  scenes  for  broad  expanses  of  turf  and  simple 

flades  and^lt  ac^f-nr^’^®*'^  are  400  acres  of  g?oyes , shrubbSfes  and 

SEiHd'IS 

lootpaths.  Four  concealed  transverse- roads  (65th,  79th,  85th  and  9Tth 
Sts.),  passing  under  or  over  the  park  drives  Ld  walks  bv  archerof  ma 

krr‘'T‘f:  ^Tde  wUr^H^t^rHyJ: 

vated  R^47oy,'trtU"liFtr\vTnle’’U^nr^^^^^^ 

Fo^itlf Vnd'^Pi^hth  ^ A reached  by  the  \ramway-lines  on 

fourth  and  Eighth  Avenues,  while  the  elevated  railroads  on  Third  and 

uL- 

Caswo  (near  the  Mall/ 

refreshmpnt/nt  tPa  n ■ ^ Cowans  Pass  Tavern  (N.  end),  and  light 

Sun.  afternoon^  Ve  ^ band  plays  on  Sat.  and 

of  masonry,  whence  digbroT’st^^s  tsc^nd^fo  ^aLd^ 

4* 


52  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK.  Nat.  History  Museum. 


Take  used  for  boating  in  summer  (boat  25c.  per  V2  hr.,  with 
to  the  10  c.)  and  skating  in  winter.  The  most  ex- 
boatman 50  c.  ^ trip  in  launcn  10  the  which  occupies 

thf  hl|h^st  point^^^  Park: 

E toraer  ™ the  pS  (nearest  entrance  in  64th  St.)  are  the  OW 
ante  lrs«a!  a^d  a smM  Zoological  Garden,  the  collect  on  in  which  is 

f^fto^riarg“t  in  winter  whe^  vanon^nienageriea.  tempor^^^^^^^  de- 

fseeV**!!)  “‘“h/lmeWcnn  MmeZ' of  Natral  HMory  (see  helow),  and 

Hr  ^nh^flttt’  Me  i 

fe^o^N^^w  Yor”  f„'T8n"”£ik";  affom^ani^of  oh\u^^^  London, 

weiehs  1)0  tons  The  bronze  crabs  at  the  base  are  modern  reprodnctions 
weighs  f “,11  Amon-  the  other  monuments  in  the  park  are  statues  of 
&e?  loUvar,  Harnmon?  and  Morse,  allegorical  Commerce 

™d  the  Pilgrim,  and  several  busts  and  animal  groups.  Just  outside  the 
TaA!  besliftte  Sixth  Ave.  Entrance,  is  a statue  of  Thorvaldsen. 

In  Manhattan  Sq.  (see  p.  51),  on  the  W.  side  of  Central  Park, 
between  77th  and  81st  Sts.,  stands  the  ^American  Museum  of 
Natural  History  (PI.  K,  2),  which  was  incorporated  in  1869.  Of 
the  two  adjoining  Mocks  of  which  it  at  present  consists  that  to  the 
N.  in  red  hrick  with  granite  trimmings,  was  erected  from  the 
dekgns  of  Olmsted  and  Foux  in  1874-77.  The  S.  block,  which 

possesses  a very  handsome  and  solid-looking  Romanesque  facade 
of  red  granite,  was  designed  by  Cady,  Berg,  ^ See,  and  was  finished 
in  1899.  Large  and  imposing  as  these  structures  are,  they  foxm 
only  about  one -fourth  of  the  complete  scheme  of  the  museum 
buildings,  which  are  intended  eventually  to  occupy  the  entire  area 
(about  18  acres)  between  Central  Park  West,  Columbus  Ave., 
Wth  St.,  and-8lst  St.  The  present  entrance  is  on  the  S.  side  ot 
the  building,  where  visitors  may  either  enter  the  main  floor  fiom 
the  top  of  the  arch  or  the  groundfloor  from  the  carnage-drive  below 
and  behind  it  (adm.,  see  p.  26).  The  Museum  received  Rs  charter 
from  the  State^f  New  York,  hut  the  ground  and 
to  the  City  of  New  York,  while  the  current  expenses 
the  Trustees,  the  City,  and  private  subscriptions.  The  giowth  of 
the  Museum  has  been,  very  rapid,  and  its  collections  are  now  valued 
at  $ 3,500,000  (700,000(.).  It  owes  large  benefactions  to  pnYafe 
individuals,  particularly  to  Mr.  Morris  K.  Jesup  (president)  Mr 
J.  Pierpont  Morgan,  and  other  past  and  present  members  of  the 
Board  of  Trustees.  The  interior  is  admirably  arranged  and  • 

Guide  Leaflets  to  the  Museum  as  a whole  and  for  the  various  halls 

and  special  exhibits  are  on  sale  ^^fl'ectures 

A notable  feature  of  tbe  Museums  activity  is  tbe  series  ot  ^ecmres 
deli^redln  the  large  lecture  Hall  (1500  seats)  on  f 
lectures,  illustrated  by  stereopticon  views,  are  delivered  here  to  the  scho 


NaU  History  Museum.  NEW  YORK. 


Route.  63 

tochers  of  New  York  State,  the  State  giving  a grant  in  aid  of  this  laudable 
^ o.  X museum  into  organic  connection  with 

the  State  system  of  schools.  Other  free  courses  of  lectures  are  given  to 
the  scientific  and  general  public.  ^ 

Ground  Floor.  The  Corridor  leading  toward  the  E.  Wing  con- 
tains the  Jesup  Collection  of  the  Building  Stones  of  America.  — The  E 
Winps  occupied  by  the  -Jesup  Collection  of  North  American  Woods,  the 
finest  collection  of  the  kind  in  existence,  including,  besides  the  specimens 
photographs  of  the  growing  trees,  maps  of  their  habitats,  and 

beautiful  water-colour  paintings  of  their  leaves,  flowers,  and  fruit.  The 

specimens  of  the  Big  Tree  and  the  Redwood  of  California  are  exhibited 
}f®,^^JOining  Corner  Hall,  which  also  contains  the  ^Corals.  Sponges,  and 

Mollusks  and  other  objects  illustrating  Invertebrate  Zoology.  The  N. 

Wing  contains  part  of  the  -Anthropological  and  '^Ethnographical  Collections’ 
which  may  be  mentioned  the  objects  brought  from  Alaska  and 
Columbia  by  the  Jesup  North  Pacific  Expedition,  and  the  Emmons 
and  lerry  collechons,  the  wood-carvings  of  the  Kwakiutl  Indians,  and  the 
large  war-canoe  from  Queen  Charlotte  Island  (suspended  from  the  ceiling) 
— The  totem-poles  (comp.  p.  602)  in  the  Corridor  between  the  N and  W 
Wings  are  interesting.  Among  the  contents  of  the  W.  Wing,  supplement- 
ing the  above  collections,  are  the  groups  and  objects  illustrating  the  life 
the  plains  of  N.  America,  the  Esquimaux, 
and  the  tribes  of  S.  E.  Siberia.  The  Siberian  Collection  (Corner  Hall)  is 
particularly  full  and  noteworthy.  ^ 

in  ^^all  is  devoted  to  Mammalia,  the  N.  Wing 

to  Btrds  (12,000  mounted  specimens  and  70,000  skins),  each  collection 
being  continued  m tbe  gallery  above.  Among  the  skeletons  is  one  of 
Jumbo  , a huge  African  elephant  brought  by  Barnum  from  England  to 
stuffed  groups  of  buffaloes  and  moose, 
and  the  specimens  of  the  elk,  the  Virginia  deer,  and  the  walrus  deserve 
of  the  N.  Wing  is  devoted  to  the  General  Collection 
SCof.  o ’ ^ America.  Among  the  interesting 

groups  representing  birds  in  their  natural  surroundings  may  be  mentioned 
the  brown  pelican  (mam  floor),  the  fish-hawk,  the  island  birds  (Bird  Rock 

gallery).  — The  W.  Corridor 
of  the  main  floor  is  devoted  to  the  mammals  found  near  New  York,  while 
its  gallery  contains  the  birds  of  the  same  district.  — The  E.  Wine  of  the 
the  extensive  Collection  of  Insects,  among  which  may 
be  noted  the  Hoffmann  Collection  of  Butterflies,  the  Hawk  Moths,  and  the 
— Tht  w to  vegetation  (Jesup  Collection  of  Economic  Entomology). 

floor  carries  on  the  Ethnological  CollecHons 
A Mexico,  and  S.W.  States).  Noteworthy  are  the 

of  modern)  and  the  turquoise  collections 

Indians.  The  contents  of  the  adjoining  Corner  Hall  illustrate 
nhtTi.  including  the  Douglas  Collection  of  Indian  Antiquities, 

objects  from  the  mounds  and  burial-places  of  the  Central  West  States,  and 
TprAt""  implements  from  the  glacial  gravels  of  Trenton,  New 

Jersey.  In  the  gallery  are  the  ^Peruvian  Antiquities  (gold  and  silver  ob- 
ionl’/  series  of  musical  instruments,  skulls  and  mummies, 

fif ^ copper).  The  Corner  Hall  of  the  W.  Wing 

contains  the  Chinese  Collection.  ° 

devoted  to  the  Collections  of  Vertebrate 
ff  the  valuable  Cope  Collection  of  Fossils.  The  alcoves 

illustrating  the  extinct  mammals  which 
later  geological  periods.  Among  the  most  notable 
representing  the  evolution  of  the  horse,  the  rhinoceros,  the 
elephant,  and  the  carnivora.  The  Phenacodus 
sLond  collateral  ancestor  of  the  hoofed  mammals.  The 

V reptiles  and  fish.  In  the  Corridor  is  the  most 

~^^^A  p s^cimen  of  the  Mosasaurus  or  marine  lizard  (30  ft.  long). 

t^taTa^  + or  Morgan  Hall  contains  the  -Bement  Collection  of  Minerals 

mAtAArf+AQ^^  the  Museum  by  Mr.  J.  Pierpont  Morgan  and  including  many 
meteorites.  — In  the  Corridor  beyond  the  Central  Hall  is  the  ^Tiffany 


54:  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Metropolitan 


Collection  of  Gems,  shown  at  the  Paris  Exhibitions  of  1889  and  1900  and 
also  nreseied  by  Mr.  Morgan.  — The  N.  Wing  contains  the  Geological  and 
Palaeontological  Collections,  the  principal  feature  of  which  is  the  -James  Hall 
Collection,  illustrating  the  paleontology  of  New  York  and  some  of  the  W. 
States  It  includes  8300  specimens  which  have  been  used  in  the  description 
of  species  by  Hall  (1811-98)  and  other  geologists.  ~ The  W.  Wing  con- 
tains casts  of  pre-Columbian  sculptures  from  Mexico  and  Central  America, 
and  also  pottery  and  objects  of  jade  and  gold,  found  in  the  explorations 
carried  on  with  funds  furnished  by  the  Due  de  Loubat. 

Third  Floor  This  floor  is  mainly  occupied  by  the  Library,  Labora- 
tories, and  Offices.  The  Central  Hall,  however,  contains  the  CollecUon  of 
Shells  the  chief  treasures  of  which  are  comprised  in  the  Jay-Wolie, 
D.  Jackson  Steward,  Haines,  and  Crooke  collections. 

The  ^Metropolitan  Museum  of  Art  (PI.  K,L,  3),  on  the  E.  side  of 
Central  Park,  opposite  82nd  St.,  was  originally  an  unpretending 
red  brick  building  with  granite  facings,  measuring  345  ft.  in  length 
by  235  ft.  in  breadth,  erected  in  1879-98 ; but  in  1902  the  present 
imposing  facade  of  gray  Indiana  limestone,  in  the  Renaissance 
style,  was  added.  This,  according  to  the  design  of  the  late  Richard 
M.  Hunt,  the  architect,  is  to  be  lengthened  by  a wing  on  either  side, 
and  extended  so  as  to  entirely  surround  the  older  part  of  the  build- 
ing. The  museum  was  incorporated  in  1871  and  has  grown  since 
then  with  marvellous  rapidity.  In  1879,  when  moved  into  the  present 
building,  the  collections  were  valued  at  about  $400,000;  their 
present  value  is  probably  $ 20,000,000  (4,000,000^).  Among  the 
chief  features  of  the  museum  is  the  ^Cesnola  Collection  of  Cypriote 
Antiquities,  a large  and  valuable  collection  of  Phoenician  and  archaic 
Greek  art,  illustrating  the  manner  in  which  the  arts  of  Egypt  and 
Assyria  were  transmitted  by  the  Phoenicians  and  adopted  by  the 
Greeks.  These  objects,  which  were  found  by  Gen.  di  Oesnola  in 
1865  et  seq.,  while  U.S.  consul  in  the  island  of  Cyprus,  are  now 
distributed  throughout  the  various  departments  of  the  museum  to 
which  they  individually  belong.  The  historical  collection  of  glass 
is  unexcelled  in  its  illustration  of  the  art  of  glass-making  from 
the  earliest  times  to  the  present  day,  and  that  of  Assyrian  cylin- 
ders is  second  only  to  the  series  in  the  BritishMuseum..  Among 
the  Old  Pictures  are  good  examples  of  Rembrandt,  Yan  Dyck,  Frans 
Hals,  Velazquez,  Rubens,  Yan  der  Meer,  and  Ruysdael.  The  Modern 
Paintings  are  extremely  valuable,  the  French  (Meissonier,  Detailm, 
Rosa  Bonheur,  Corot,  etc.) , the  German , the  British,  and  the 
American  schools  being  all  represented  by  good  examples,  ihe 
Musical  Instruments  are  also  interesting.  — The  mam  entrance  ot 
the  Museum  is  in  Fifth  Ave.  at  82nd  St.,  and  there  is  another  en- 
trance in  the  S.  fagade  within  the  Park  (adm.,  see  P-^o).  Director, 
General  L,  P.  di  Cesnola.  Catalogue  of  the  paintings  20  c.  5 cata- 
logues of  some  of  the  special  collections  at  varying  prices.  Most  ot 

the  objects  are  labelled.  v i 

The  museum  received  its  charter  from  the  State  of  New  York,  but 
the  building  itself  and  the  ground  on  which  it  stands  are  loaned  by  the 
City  of  Nel  York  (comp.  p.  52).  The  gifts  of  private  honors,  m money 
and  in  kind,  have  been  of  the  most  generous  nature,  and  one-fourth  ot 


Museum  of  Art. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  55 

the  cost  of  maintenance  is  borne  by  members  of  the  corporation.  In  the 
basement  are  a restaurant  (W.  side;  moderate  prices),  and  lavatories  for 
ladies  (E.  side)  and  gentlemen  (W.  side);  there  are  other  lavatories 
close  to  the  main  entrance  (ladies,  S.  side;  gentlemen,  N.  side).  Canes, 
umbrellas,  and  parcels  are  checked  at  the  stand  to  the  right  of  the 
entrance  (parcels,  5 c. ; canes  and  umbrellas,  free).  The  total  number  of 
visitors  to  the  Museum  in  1903  was  802,  900.  — The  nearest  Elev.  Ry 
stations  are  at  76th  and  84th  Sts.,  Third  Ave.  The  Fifth  Ave.  stages  pass 
the  door  and  the  Madison  Ave.  street-cars  within  one  block. 

Grround  Floor.  On  entering  by  the  principal  door,  we  find  ourselves 
in  the  fine  Hall  of  Sculpture  (PI.  1),  166  ft.  long,  48  ft.  wide,  and  two 
stories  high,  out  of  which  a spacious  staircase  ascends  to  the  upper 
floor.  This  hall  contains  modern  statuary,  including  examples  of  Hiram 
Powers,  Gibson,  W.  W.  Story  (Salome),  Rinehart,  Millet,  Albano,  Barnard 
( I feel  two  natures  struggling  within  me’),  Schwanthaler,  Fischer,  Thor- 
valdsen, and  Barye  (cast).  Conspicuous  in  the  centre  of  the  ball  are  the 
bronze  figures  of  a "-'Bacchante,  by  Macmonnies,  and  a Bear  Tamer  by 
Bartlett.  — The  Corridor  to  the  right  (PI.  2)  also  contains  sculpture!  — 
Room  3 is  to  contain  loan  collections,  frequently  changed.  - Room  4, 
to  theW.  of  Room  3,  contains  memorials  of  George  Washington,  Benjamin 
Franklin,  and^  Lafayette,  including  portraits  (amongst  them  the  earliest 
known  tportrait  of  Washington,  a miniature),  busts,  medallions,  etc.  — 
Room  5,  adjoining,  is  devoted  to  Central  & South  American  Pottery.  — The 
small  Transverse  Hall  (PI.  6)  contains  American  Antiquities,  including 
ancient  and  modern  idols  and  fetishes  of  New  Mexico,  pottery,  etc.  — 
Passing  through  the  short  Corridor  of  Modern  Bronze  Statuary  (PI.  7) 
mcluding  figures  of  John  the  Baptist  by  Rodin  and  Napoleon  by  Launt 
Thompson,  we  reach  the  corresponding  Transverse  Hall  to  the  S.  (PI.  8), 
which  contains  Greek  and  Roman  Antiquities,  comprising  figurines,  terracottas, 
urns,  Etruscan  fibulae,  and  bronzes  from  the  Marquand  Collection.  This 
room  also  contains  the  most  important  antique  of  the  Museum,  a bronze- 
plated  Etruscan  *'Biga,  a triumphal  chariot  dating  from  600  or  700  B.C., 
or  even  earlier,  in  remarkable  preservation,  part  even  of  the  wood  of  the 
wheels  still  surviving.  The  panels  are  carved  with  mythological  subjects 
in  high  relief,  and  the  minor  ornamentation  is  also  noteworthy.  A few- 
smaller  objects  found  in  the  same  tomb  as  the  Biga  are  also  exhibited 
here.  At  the  entrance  are  the  original  bronze  Grabs  placed  under  Cleo- 
patra s Needle  (see  p.  52).  — In  the  Corridor  to  the  S.  (PI.  9)  is  a fine 
Italian  niarble  Mantel  of  the  16th  cent.,  richly^  carved,  from  the  Mar- 
quand Collection.  — Room  10,  in  the  corner,  contains  some  interesting 
rr^scoes  from  the  Pompeian  villa  at  Eoscoreale  unearthed  in  1901.  One 
cubiculum,  or  bedroom,  has  been  reconstructed  so  as  to  show  the  frescoes 
in  their  original  positions;  frescoes  from  the  other  rooms  of  the  villa 
are  shown  in  wooden  frames.  The  colour  of  the  frescoes,  especially  the 
brilliant  reds  of  the  architectural  panels,  is  their  principal  charm.  — 
Room  11  contains  (temporarily)  tapestry,  sculptures,  candelabra,  malachite 
and  enamel  vases,  and  Capo  di  Monte  ware,  bequeathed  by  Mrs.  E.  V. 
Coles.  Room  12  is  the  Pavilion  of  Carved  Wood,  containing  numerous 
specimens  of  work  in  wood,  carved  and  inlaid.  By  the  E.  wail  is  a chair 
mat  belonged  to  Rubens,  and  among  the  other  larger  objects  are  a 
(^bxnet  made  of  American  woods,  a carved  Clock  (English,  1640),  three 
JNorwegian  sleighs,  three  sedan-chairs,  and  an  ebony  and  ivory  Italian 
cabinet  (Ibth  cent.).  — Just  outside,  in  the  Corridor  (PI.  9;  see  above), 
13  z.  Memorial  Monument  to  E.  A.  Poe  (1809-49),  erected  by  the  actors  of 
tne  United  States.  — We  have  now  completed  our  tour  of  the  E.  wing. 
The  long  Gtallery  (PI.  14)  to  the  left  of  the  staircase,  leading  from  the 
xiall  ot  Sculpture  to  the  old  building,  contains  the  Arch.®ological  Col- 
lection Its  contents,  chiefly  from  Gen.  di  Cesnola’s  discoveries,  include 
lunereal  sculptures,  bronzes,  and  inscriptions.  At  the  E.  end  of  the 
marble  Sarcophagus  from  Rome  (prob.  2ud  cent.  A.D.). 
At  the  W.  end  is  a fine  Sarcophagus,  partly  in  the  Assyrian  and  partly 
n he  Greek  style,  found  at  Amathus,  a Phcenician  city  in  Cyprus  and 
dating  probably  from  the  6th  cent.  B.C.  The  Sarcophagus  from  Golgoi 


56  Route  2. 


NEW  YORE. 


Metropolitan 


( Ti  r ROO'l  also  illustrates  the  mingling  of  Assyria^  and  Grr.ek  art. 
(ca.  B.C.  60U)  a s marble  Grseco-Pboenician  Sarco- 

in  the  centre  ^ ^ small  Room  15  hold  small  bronze  objects 

- The  wall^^  In  the  alcove  under  the  staircase  is  ranged 
'"Tw  of  masks  standards  with  swinmng  leaves  con- 

?!^^trfabrics  from  the  Fayum  (4th  cent.  B.  C.  to  litb  cent  A.  J).). 
aini^  roach  the  old  building.  Room  16  contains  architectural  plaster 

.^Tho  Hall  to  Oie  left  (PI.  18,  19)  contains  the  Cesnola  Cypriote  Collec- 
headland  other  fragments  of  statues,  statuettes  (many  with 
tion^  including  ® . x .g  famonist  others,  an  interesting  archaic  Hercu- 
traces  of  co  ou  i ^ i steles  alabaster  vases,  inscribed  lamps,  etc.  All 

les),  terracottas  f are  represented  in  the 

forms  of  ^“Cien  , wall'Cases  are  some  interesting  representations  of 

sculptures.  In  one  of  the  approximations  to  the  human  form  to  works 

Venus,  from  the  earliest  the  Hall  of  Glass  and  Pot- 

of  oT  which  are  among  the  chief  hoasts  of  the 

test  (PI.  20),  tne  conieu  » ^ the  S.  wall  as  well  as  onjthe 

Museum.  mntainin'^  Egyptian.  Phoenician.,  Greek.,  and  Roman  Glass 

floor,  are  TaS  B-C-  800  downwards.  It.  in- 

from  the  Cesnola  r i^descent  gla^s.  Among  the  finest  speci- 

cludes  exquisite  Patera  of  Curium’.  Other  floor-cases  contain 

mens  is  the  ^t)  and^^arves  collections  of  Ancient,  Mediaeval,  and 

The  wall-cases  to  the  H.  contain  the  Cesnola  collection  of 
Modern  Glass.  ..p®  an  Pottery.  By  the  W.  wall  are  several 

Phoenician,  The  CesLla  Lllections  in  this  room 

interesting  Rhodian  ' ,.amic  art  from  B.C.  1500  to  the  4th  or 

illustrate  the  his  ory  probably  destroyed  in  the  9th,  and 

mh  cent.,  of  era.  Idalmmjvas^pr^^^^  piaster-casts  of  works 

Curium  in  pr att  to  the  W of  Room  20,  with  its  small 

by  the  Della  Robbia  ^he  Ha  t th  and  Italian  Renaissance 

..uhdivmons  ^1-  f “Ls  through  the  Coeeidoe  (PI.  24),  con- 

ScDLPTUE^  ReLiSSANCE  ScULPTDEAL  CASTS,  tO  the  HaLL 

taming  FsaNC  p fjj  32)  which  is  lighted  from  the  roof  and  re- 

OF  Aechiteotdml  Casts  (Pi.  Kensington  Museum.  Among  the 

calls  the  Architectural  Court  at  houm  ^en  Certosa  (Facia) ; the 

chief  objects  ^®P^“^"“,p}{,jence)  by  Benedetto  da  Majano;  the  Monument 
Pulpit  of  Santa  Croce  J y TTnn<5P  of  the  Butchers,  Hildesheim 

mmMmmmEM 

?iil?ls“il\Vd-o?ertXoHrrEOT^E^^^^^  Cas^s  (Bb 

Pulpit  of  Siena  Cathedral,  J Nuremberg,  by  Peter  Tischer 

ae  la^“  T^f  cTeeX  ®(Ph‘'28)''®connSg^  this  taU  wHh 

the  matn  hall'  contains  casts  of  " „\y,®X^VhteflT 
P™^an'THS-e\m®-SHAnn^ 

Room  SOcontains  a A^^^^'^^.^r.^narclsirtpi  31)  “ S.  of 

The  Pavilion  of  Egyptian  Sculptural  uasts  fniinw  the 

tlietet,  conuin.  .M,  of  “^'"1  Jl.loioiog 


METROPOLITAN  MUSEUM  OF  ART 


Ground  Floor 


METROPOLITAN  MUSEUM  OF  ART 


l'X200  ? I I , . I , , , ^9^  I I I I 

* 9 , ^1°  ^IB- 


Museum  of  Art.  NEW  YORK.  2.  Route.  67 

and  other  Egyptian  antiquities;  in  the  wall-cases  on  the  other  side  are 
mummies  and  mummy-cases. 

We  have  now  finished  our  tour  of  the  groundfloor,  and  next  ascend 
the  Grand  Stairwat,  ornamented  with  marhle  busts,  to  the  upper  floor. 
On  the  wall  facing  us  as  we  ascend  are  four  cartoons  by  Jacob  de  Wit. 

Upper  Floor,  The  Corridor  to  the  N.  (PI,  8),  containing  Japanese 
Armour^  leads  to  Corridor  1 (Oriental  Antiquities).,  in  the  gallery  of 
the  Hall  of  Sculpture.  Turning  to  the  left,  we  pass  some  cases  of 
Staffordshire  pottery,  and  reach  Corridor  2,  at  the  farther  end  of 
which  is  a relief  of  the  Assumption,  by  Luca  della  Robbia  (1400-1480),  an 
original  from  the  mortuary  chapel  of  the  Princes  of  Piombino.  This 
gallery  also  contains  the  "^Bishop  Collection  of  Jades.  — Corridor  5 con- 
tains the  collection  of  European  Porcelain.,  presented  by  Mr.  Henry  G. 
Marquand  and  others ; also  two  large  blue  Sevres  Vases.,  presented  by  the 
Republic  of  France  to  American  Societies.  — At  the  corner  where  we 
turn  into  Corridor  T is  an  ancient  Buddhist  Shrine.  The  corridor  con- 
tains Japanese  Lacquers  and  Bronzes , with  a lacquer  Shrine  (modern 
Japanese)  at  the  farther  end.  — Room  6,  adjoining  Corridor  7,  contains  a 
superb  collection  of  -^Old  Chinese  Porcelain,  loaned  by  Mr.  J.  P.  Morgan 
(formerly  the  property  of  Mr.  Garland).  In  the  part  of  Corridor  1 which 
we  now  pass  through  are  wall-cases  containing  Bronze  Idols,  Persian 
Metal  Shields,  Persian  Tiles,  etc.  — Corridor  9,  leading  back  to  the  old 
building,  contains  some  Chinese  porcelain  and  bronzes  (on  loan). 

Other  Staircases  ascend  to  the  Upper  Floor  from  both  ends  of  Halls  16 
and  24.  On  the  walls  of  Stairway  A (S.E.)  are  a fine  painting-like  mosaic 
of  Psestum  by  Rinaldi,  a St.  Christopher  by  Pollajuolo  (fresco),  the  Seasons 
by  J.  J.  Horemans,  a Cherub  by  Correggio,  an  Apostle  by  Purer,  and  other 
old  paintings.  Stairway  B (R.E.)  has  a hunting-scene  by  Horemans  and 
other  works.  On  Stairway  C (N.W.)  are  landscapes  by  R.  B.  Browning, 
Kensett,  etc.  Stairway  D (S.W.)  is  hung  with  the  Muses  by  Fagnani 
(portraits  of  New  York  ladies),  a drawing  by  Mutter  (‘In  Memoriam’),  etc. 

We  begin  our  tour  of  the  upper  floor  of  the  old  building,  containing 
the  collection  of  paintings,  with  Room  11,  opening  from  the  Grand  Stairway. 

Room  11  ( Paintings  of  the  Old  Dutch  and  Flemish  Schools).  The  number- 
ing begins  on  the  E.  wall,  to  the  left  of  the  entrance.  No.  17.  A.  de  Vries 
(17th  cent.)  Portrait;  65.  Teniers  the  Elder  (1582-1649),  Dutch  kitchen;  59. 
A.  van  der  Neer  (1619-83),  Sunset;  63.  B.  van  der  Heist  (1613-70),  Guitar- 
player;  *48.  (1577-1640),  Cambyses’ punishment  of  an  unjust  judge; 

30.  Jan  and  Andries  Both  (1610-50),  Italian  scene  ; 102.  Jacob  Jordaens  (1593- 
1678),  The  philosophers ; 97.  S.  Ruysdael  (i^ObAO),  Sea-piece;  *34.  J.  de  Heem 
(1603-50),  Still-life;  *15.  Van  Dyck  (1599  1641),  St.  Martha  interceding  for 
the  cessation  of  the  plague  at  Tarascon;  *8.  Jordaens,  Visit  of  the  young 
John  the  Baptist  to  the  Holy  Child ; Rubens,  *94.  Return  of  the  Holy 
Family  from  Egypt,  *179.  The  Holy  Family;  9.  Fyt  (1609-61),  Game; 
5.  B.  van  der  Heist,  Dutch  burgomaster;  4.  Karel  de  Moor  (1656-1738), 
Burgomaster  of  Leyden  and  his  wife;  35.  Aart  de  Gelder  (1645-1727),  Dutch 
admiral;  *11.  Frans  Hals  (1584-1666),  Hille  Bobbe  of  Haarlem,  the  sailors’ 
Venus;  31.  Adriaen  van  Ostade  (1601-58),  Fiddler;  57  Quinten  Matsys  (1460- 
1530),  Crown  of  Thorns ; 38.  Rachel  Ruysch  (1664-1750),  Flowers  and  fruit ; 
16.  Jan  Steen  (1626-79),  Dutch  kermesse;  1.  Teniers  the  Younger  (1610-90), 
Marriage  festival;  33.  Caspar  Netscher  (1639-84),  Dutch  lady. 

Room  12,  to  the  W.  of  R.  11,  contains  Modern  Paintings  and  Pictures 
by  Early  Italian,  Flemish,  Dutch,  and  Spanish  Masters.  The  numbering 
begins  to  the  S.  of  the  S.E.  door.  105.  Seb.  del  Piombo  (1485-1547) 
Christopher  Columbus;  116.  Pannini  (1695-1768),  Interior  of  St.  Peter’s; 
110.  Carlo  Maratta  (1625-1713),  Pope  Clement  IX.-,  118.  George  Fuller 
(1822-84),  Nydia  (‘Last  Days  of  Pompeii’);  129.  Picknell  (1852-91),  Bleak 
December;  136.  Elihu  Vedder(h.  1836),  Sentinel;  147.  George  Inness  (1825-94) 
Autumn  oaks;  146.  F.  D.  Millet  (b.  1846),  A cosy  corner;  149.  H.  Bolton 
Jones  (b.  1848),  Spring;  150.  Edgar  M.  Ward,  Coppersmith;  152.  John 
F.  Weir  (b.  1841),  Forging  the  shaft;  156.  Wm.  Hart  (1823-94),  Scottish 
scene;  157.  F.  E.  Church  (1826-1900),  iEgean  Sea;  160.  George  Inness, 
Delaware  valley;  161.  Henry  Mosler,  Wedding  feast  in  Brittany;  163.  Carl 


NEW  YORK. 


Metropolitan 


58  Route  2. 

Marr  fb.  1858)  The  mystery  of  life;  ITl.  H.  D.  Martin  (1836-9T),  View  on 
thp  Seine-  lib.  W.  A.  Coffin  (b.  1855),  Rain;  181.  Joseph  Jefferson  (the 
comedian;’  b.  1829),  Ideal  landscape;  185.  Robert  Walker  (d.  1658),  Gen. 
Ireton-  191.  J.  Alden  Weir  (b.  1852),  Idle  hours;  195.  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds 
(1723-9^)  Portrait;  196.  Sir  Peter  Lely  (1617-80),  Portrait;  *197.  J.  M.  W. 
Turner  (1775-1851),  Grand  Canal,  Venice;  ==199.  Reynolds,  Hon.  Henry  Fane 
and  his  guardians  Inigo  Jones  and  Charles  Blair  (a  large  and  splendid 
group  recalling  the  so-called  ‘Three  Graces’  in  the  London  National  Gal- 
lery); 200.  Charles  Lucy  (1814-73),  Nelson  in  the  cabin  of  the  Victory’. 

Gallery  23,  which  we  enter  from  the  N.W.  door  in  Room  12, 
contains  the  collection  of  Wrought  Iron  and  Bronzes.  This  gallery  overlooks 
the  Architectural  Court  (p.  56).  — The  parallel  Gallery  22  (entered  from 
the  S W door  of  Room  12)  contains  the  Collection  of  Drawings  oy  Ola 
Masters,  Etchings,  and  Photographs.  The  drawings  include  specimens 
attributed  to  Raphael,  Michael  Angelo,  Leon,  da  Vinci,  Correggio,  Veronese, 
Tintoretto,  Andrea  del  Sarto,  Domenichino,  Carracci,  Guido  Rem,  Murillo, 
Velazquez,  Durer,  Van  Dyck,  Rembrandt,  Rubens,  Teniers,  Watteau,  Greuze, 
and  Claude  Lorrain.  Among  the  etchings  are  works  by  Seymour^  Haden, 
Turner  Whistler,  etc.  In  the  centre  is  a case  of  volumes  containing  pho- 
tographs, with  an  ingenious  arrangement  for  turning  the  leaves  without 

exposing  them  to  soiling.  a.,  a a e 

Room  13,  reached  direct  from  Staircase  A or  from  the  S.  end  of 

R.  12,  contains  Paintings,  mainly  of  the  American  School.  The  numbering 

begins  to  the  E.  of  the  middle  door  on  the  N.  side:  233.  John  Trumbull 
(1756-1843),  Alex.  Hamilton;  236.  Gilbert  Stuart  (1755-1828),  Capt.  Henry 
Rice;  238.  C.  W.  Pecde  (1741-1827),  ^^i.DenmsM.  Bunker 

(1861-80)  Portrait  of  the  artist’s  wife;  248.  E.  (1816-68),  Washington 

crossing  ’ the  Delaware  in  1776  (a  huge  work  presented  by  Mr.  John 

S.  Kennedy);  254.  Thos.  Hovenden  (1840-85),  Last  moments  of  John  Brown; 
259.  Henry  Inman  (1801-46),  Martin  van  Buren ; *260.^  G. 

Washington;  258.  Thomas  Cole  (1801-48),  In  ^ 

(1794-1863),  Flower  girl;  264.  Benjamin  West  (1738-1820),  Triumph 
of  Love;  265.  Matt.  Pratt  (1734-1805),  The  American  School,  with  portraits 
of  West,  Pratt  himself,  and  other  painters;  269.  Vacslav  Brozik  (b.  1852), 
Columbus  at  the  court  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  (an  enormous  canvas, 
presented  by  Mr.  M.  K.  Jesup);  270.  Cole,  Roman  aqueduct;  2^8.  A.  B. 
Durand  (1796-1886),  In  the  woods.  — The  S.E.  door  leads  into  — 

Room  14,  containing  a ^-Collection  of  Old  Masters  and  Pictures  of  the 
British  School,  presented  to  the  Museum  by  Mr_  Henry  G.  Marquand  (valued 
at  $ 500,000).  To  the  left:  285.  Hogarth  (1697-1764),  Miss  Rich;  ^2U.  J^bens, 
Susannah  and  the  Elders  (Susannah  a portrait  of  his  second  wife,  Helena 
Fourment ; painted  after  1630) ; 288.  Moroni  ( .510-78),  Portrait ; m.Homin  (?  ; 
1496-1543),  Abp.  Cranmer;  *290.  Van  DycA:,  Lady  with  a ruff ; -291.  Aecm. 
da  Vinci  (?;  1453-1519),  Girl  with  cherries;  -292.  Erans  Hals  (school-piece  0, 
The  smoker;  293.  Jacob  van  Ruysdael  (1625-81),  landscape;  294.  R.  vaw 
der  Heist,  Portrait;  296.  Netscher,  (^^rd-party ; Rm&rondi  (1607-6^^ 

Man  in  broad-brim  hat  and  wide  collar  (ca.  1660),  '297.  Portrait  of  his 
latest  period  (1665);  301.  Gainsborough  (1727-88),  Girl  with  a cat;  Tur- 
ner, Saltash;  303.  Reynolds,  Portrait;  Rubens,  305.  Portoait,  306.  Pyramus 
andThisbe;  303.  Old  Crome  (1769-1821),  Landscape  ; ^ Dyck,  Duke 

of  Richmond  and  Lennox;  *311.  Constable  (i™- 1837),  Valley  Farm 
Velazquez  (1599-1660),  Mariana,  second  wife  of  Philip  IV. ; 313.  Masaccio 
(?,  later  Florentine  school),  Man  and  woman;  316.  Teniers  the  Younger, 
Landscape;  *315.  J.  van  der  Meer  (1632-96),  Young  woman  at  a casement; 
*317.  Albert  Cuyp  (1605-91),  Landscape  with  cattle;  319.  Jan  van  Eyck^l ; 139U- 
1440),  Virgin  and  Child;  *321.  Frans  Hals,  Portrait ; 326.  Velazquez,  Olivarez  ; 
324.  John  S.  Sargent  (b.  1856),  Henry  G.  Marquand  (see  above),  President 
of  the  Museum  in  1890-92 ; 328.  Ascribed  to  Frans  Hals,  Two  gentlemen ; 
*W2b.Hals,  Portrait  of  an  old  lady  (so-called,  artist’s  wHe);^  Velazquez, 
*330.  Portrait  of  himself  (?),  327.  Don  Carlos,  eldest  son  of  ^^^ip  IV^  32d. 
Juriaan  Ovens  (1620-78),  Portrait  (dated  1650);  329.  Metsu  (1630-6p,  Music- 
lesson;  *333.  J.  van  Eyck  O Petrus  Cristus),  Deposition  from  the  Cross; 
336.  Gainsborough,  Landscape.  — We  now  pass  into 


Museum  of  Art. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  59 


Room  15,  containing  Pictures  from  the  Collection  of  Mr.  0.  A.  Hearn.,  chiefly 
by  British  and  American  masters.  The  numbering  begins  to  the  E.  of 
the  N.  door:  338.  George  Jnness^  Peace  and  plenty;  340.  R.  P.  Bonington 
(1801-28),  Scene  in  Normandy;  339.  Gainshorough.,  Portrait;  342.  Richard 
Wilson  (1713-82).  Storm;  347.  Sir  Henry  Raeburn  (1756-1823),  Portrait;  348. 
Sir  Godfrey  Kneller  (1646-1723),  Portrait;  350.  Constable.,  Bridge  on  the 
Stour;  349.  Lely.,  Portrait;  354.  George  Morland  (1763-1804),  Midday  meal; 
353.  Reynolds.,  Duke  of  Cumberland;  358.  I.  van  Ostade  (1621-49),  Winter 
scene;  359.  P.  (ca.  1632-81),  Dutch  interior;  364.  Cuyp.,  Landscape 

with  cattle;  365.  Abbott  H,  Thayer  (b.  1849),  Young  woman;  370.  Patrick 
Nasmyth  (1787-1831),  Landscape;  372.  Wilson,  Italian  scene;  375.  Sir  Thomas 
Lawrence  (1769-1  30),  Lady  Ellenborough;  376.  Gainsborough,  Landscape; 
379.  Reynolds,  Portrait;  330.  Daniel  Myiens  (17th  cent.).  Portrait  of  Charles 
I.;  381.  Claude  Lorrain  (1600-1682),  Seaport;  334.  Martin,  Sand-dunes; 
387.  Alex.  H.  Wyant  (1836-92),  Broad,  silent  valley. 

Room  16  is  used  for  Loan  Collections,  changing  from  time  to  time. 

Room  17  (Catharine  Lorillard  Wolfe  Collection).  The  collection  of  mod- 
ern paintings  bequeathed  to  the  Museum  by  Miss  C.  L.  Wolfe  (1828-87), 
along  with  an  endowment  of  $2(X),000,  contains  several  fine  French  and 
German  paintings  and  also  some  British  and  American  works.  To  the 
left:  387 d.  Falero  (b.  1851),  Twin  stars;  391.  Bida  (1813-95),  Massacre  of  the 
Mamelukes  in  1811;  392.  Rousseau  (1812-67),  Edge  of  the  woods;  393.  Lord 
Frederick  Leighton  (1830-96),  Lachryma* ; 396.  J.  M.  W.  Turner,  Whale-ship ; 
397.  M.  Leloir  (b.  1853),  Opportunity  makes  the  thief;  402.  Dori  (1833-83), 
Retreat  from  Moscow ; Meissonier  (1815-91),  403.  Sign-painter,  ''•406.  Adriaen 
and  Willem  Van  de  Velde;  408.  (1824-1904),  Arab  boy;  407.  F.  A. 

von  Kaulbach  (b.  1850),  Girl’s  head;  411.  Jules  Breton  (b.  1827),  Peasant 
girl  knitting;  -412.  Couture  (1815-79),  Idle  student;  413.  A.  Achenbach 
(b.  1815),  Sunset;  *417.  Jules  Breton,  Religious  procession  in  Brittany; 
418.  Marchal  (1825-77),  Evening  in  Alsace : 419.  Defregger  (b.  1835),  German 
peasant  girl;  422.  Bouguereau  (b.  1825),  Brother  and  sister;  426.  Louis  Haghe 
(1806-85),  A toast  in  the  guard-room;  427.  Meissonier,  General  and  adjutant; 
428.  Narcisse  Diaz  Holy  Family;  436.  Detaille  (b.  1848),  Skirmish 

between  Cossacks  and  the  Old  Guard ; 437.  H.  Vernet  (1789-1863),  Study  for  a 
picture  of  the  Corso  ; 442  a.  F.  E.  Delacroix  (1798-1863),  Abduction  of  Rebecca 
(‘Ivanhoe’);  443.  Yibert  (1840-1902),  The  startled  confessor;  444.  Henner 
(b.  1829),  Bather;  *448.  Gabriel  Max  (b.  1840),  The  last  token;  449.  Jsabey 
(1804-86),  Banquet-hall;  451.  Schenck  (1828-1901),  Lost  (a  scene  in  Auvergne); 
453.  (1823-89),  The  Shulamite  Woman  (Song  of  Solomon,  8);  *457. 

Ludwig  Knaus  (b.  1829),  Holy  Family;  458.  Roybet  (b.l840).  Game  of  cards. 

Room  18  (Wolfe  Collection  continued).  To  the  left  (of  S.  door):  466. 
Fortuny  (1838-74),  Camels  at  Tangiers ; 466b.  Rousseau,  Landscape;  467. 
Rosa  Bonheur  (1822-99),  Hound;  468.  Daniel  Huntington  (b.  1816),  John 
David  Wolfe,  father  of  Miss  C.  L.  Wolfe;  471.  Boldini,  Gossip  ; 472.  Cabanel, 
Portrait  of  Miss  Wolfe;  474.  Boughton  (b.  1834),  Puritan  girl;  479.  Detaille, 
Cuirassier;  481.  Dupri  (1812-89),  Hay-wagon;  483.  Decamps  (1803-60),  Night 
patrol  at  Smyrna;  484.  Knaus,  Old  woman  and  cats;  *485.  Van  Mar  eke 
(1827-91),  Cattle;  487.  Bonnat  (b.  1833),  Fellah  woman  and  child;  490. 
Munkaesy  (b.  1846),  Pawnbroker’s  shop;  491.  Yibert,  A reprimand;  492. 
Bargue  (d.  1883),  Bashi  Bazouk;  493.  Berne-Bellecour  (b.  1838),  The  Intended  ; 
*494.  Troyon  (1810-65),  Dutch  cattle;  497.  Merle,  Falling  leaves;  499.  Rosa 
Bonheur,  V/eaning  the  calves;  500.  W.  von  Kaulbach  (1805-74),  Crusaders 
before  Jerusalem  (a  large  allegorical  work);  501.  Le  F^bvre  (b.  1834),  Girl 
of  Capri;  *506.  Troyon,  White  cow;  508.  Piloty  (1826-86),  The  Wise  and 
Foolish  Virgins;  509.  Lambert  (b.  1825),  Cat  and  kittens;  510.  Desgoffe 
(b.  1830),  Still-life  (original  objects  in  the  Louvre  and  selected  by  Miss 
Wolfe  for  the  artist) ; 518.  Schreyer  (b.  1828),  Arabs  on  the  march ; 519. 
Le  Roux  (b.  1829),  Roman  ladies  at  the  tomb  of  their  ancestors ; *521. 
G4r6me,  Prayer  in  a Cairene  mosque;  524.  Hans  Makart  (1840-84),  Dream 
after  the  ball;  527.  Wappers  (1803-74),  Confidences;  *525.  Cot  (1837-83), 
The  storm ; 528.  Bonnat,  Roman  girl ; 529.  Pasini,  Entrance  to  a mosque ; 
533.  Rousseau,  River-scene;  *532.  Corot  (1796-1875),  Ville  d’Avray. 

Rooms  19,  20,  21,  and  25  contain  Modern  Paintings,  including  some 


60  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK. 


Metropolitan 


Frencli  masterpieces,  several  German,  British,  and  Dutch  paintings,  and 
many  American  works.  Many  of  these  are  loaned,  hut  among  the  permanent 
possessions  of  the  Museum  shown  here  are  those  mentioned  helow. 

Boom  19.  The  numbering  begins  to  the  W.  of  the  S.W.  door;  57b. 
Francois  Boucher  (1T03-70),  Rescue  of  Arion  from  the  waves : '•066.  Mcolas 
Largiliare  (mQ-iUQ),  Portrait^  -570.  F.  H.  Drouais  (1/2T-75),  Jos^h  II. 
of  Austria^  *5T5.  Jean  Marc  Nattier  (16854766),  Princesse  de  Conde  as  Diana^ 
571  573  Greuze  (17254805),  Studies  of  heads  ^ 555.  Charles  L.  Muller  {imb-'dZ), 
Honeymoon:  547.  Poussin  (15934665),  Mythological  subject-  546  p.  L. 
Fraw/ms  (1814-97),  Gathering  olives^  539.  F.  X Winter  halter  (ib0Q-l^FlOTind&. 

We  now  pass  by  the  N.E.  door  of  Room  19  into  Room  21. 

Room  21.  The  numbering  begins  to  the  N.  of  the  S.W.  door  leading 
into  Room  20  : 588.  Carl  Marr,  Gossip ; 589.  Julius  Schrader  (1815-1900), 
Alex,  von  Humboldt,  with  Chimborazo  in  the  background.  — -593  Meissonier, 
Friedland,  1807  (one  of  the  few  large  canvases  of  this  painter,  intended, 
in  the  master’s  own  words,  to  represent  ‘Napoleon  at  the  zenith  of  his 
elorv  and  the  love  and  adoration  of  the  soldiers  for  the  great  Captain 
for  whom  they  were  ready  to  die').  It  was  bought  hy  Mr.  Henry  Hilt^ 
for  $ 66,000  (13,200;.)  and  presented  hy  him  to  the  Mimeum.  — 5M.  O-U. 
Davis  (b.  1856),  Evening;  594.  Josef  Israels  (b.  1824),  Bashful  suitor;  607. 
Mauve  4838-88)  Autumn:  6G0.  Maignan.  ‘L’attentat  d’Anagni , an  incident 
teZe  lie  of  PoptBonifaceVIII.;  601.  Cart  ( 1820-1900),  Scene  from 

‘Gotz  von  Berlichingen’^  ^604.  Basiien- Lepage  (1848-84),  Joan  of  Arc^  Wj. 
L.  Bisi  (1814-69),  Milan  Cathedral^  -615.  Frangois  Auguste  Bonheur  {hr 
of  Rosa:  1824-84),  Woodland  and  cattle,  with  fine  sunlight  etiect^  bib. 
Foriwny,  Spanish  lady  5 -618.  E.  Deiaille,  Defence  of  Champigny,  a master- 
piece, presented  by  Mr.  Hilton;  619.  George  Inness,  Evening;  6;^0.  Manet 
(1833-83),  Boy  with  a sword;  622.  Lhermitte  (b.  1844),  Vintage;  606.  /acgwe 
(1813-94),  Landscape  with  sheep;  649.  Bargue^  Footman  asleep;  b29.  C. 
Ulrich  (b.  1858),  Glass-blowers  of  Murano;  631.  Meyer  von  Bremen 
Evening-prayer  (a  small  water-colour);  623.  Wilhelm  Roller 
van  der  Goes  painting  the  portrait  of  Mary  of  Burgundy ; 635.  G.  J.  V. 
Clairin  (b.  1843),  Moorish  sentinel;  634.  Dupr4^  Balloon;  644.  B.obert  Wyhe 
(1839-77),  Death  of  a Vendean  chief;  605.  Mauve,  Spring. 

Room  20.  To  the  left  (of  S.E.  door):  655.  C.  Piloty^  Thusnelda  at  the 
triumphal  entry  of  Germanicus  into  Rome,  a huge 
picture  at  Munich);  654.  Qlisenti,  The  hunter’s  story ; 659.  J.  W. 

(b.  1856),  Walt  Whitman;  686.  Eubner  (1814-79),  Poachers  death;  687. 
Bonnat,  John  T.  Johnston,  first  President  of  the  Metropolitan  Museum  of 
Art;  688.  J.  F.  Cropsey  (b.  1823),  Landscape;  689.  Lerolle,  Org^ rehearsal ; 
695.  Jozef  Israels,  Expectation.  — 694.  C.  G.  (1851-90),  The 

‘Opprobrious  Entry’  into  Stockholm  of  Bishops  Peder  Sonnavater  and 
Master  Knut,  who  had  unsuccessfully  rebelled  against  Gustavus  I. ; bJC 
Pecht  (1814-1903),  Richard  Wagner.  — -706.  Rosa  Bonheur,  Horse  Fair,  the 
artist’s  masterpiece,  familiar  from  Thomas  Landseer’s  engraving.  A quarter- 
size  replica  is  in  the  London  National  Gallery,  and  there  ar  other  still 
smaller  reproductions.  This,  the  original  picture,  was  purchased  by 
Mr.  Cornelius  Vanderbilt,  on  the  dispersal  of  the  Stewart  collectio^  for 
$ 58,000  (11,6007.),  and  given  by  him  to  the  JP^seuim  — ^7.  T.  W.  ^ood. 
War  episodes;  70S.  Manet,  Girl  with  a parrot;  709.  Hoffer,  Copy  of  Couture  s 
‘Decadence  of  Rome’;  712.  Clays  (18174900),  Celebration  of  the  freedom  of 
the  port  of  Antwerp  (1863);  711.  Walter  Gay  (b.  1856),  ‘Les  Fileuses  ; 713. 
Bannat  (b.  1853),  Quartette;  715,  716.  Kensett,  Landscapes. 

Room  24,  or  Gallery  of  Metallic  Reproductions,  which  we  now  pass 
through  to  reach  Room  25,  contains  reproductions  of  ancient,  medisev^, 
and  modern  plate,  chiefly  in  Russian  and  English  collections.  — the  ^.E. 

^^^Vo^om^25^  which  completes  the  collection  of  Modern  Paintings.  The 
numbering  begins  on  the  E.  wall,  to  the  S.  of  the  N.  enhance.  • 
Meissonnier,  Man  reading;  739.  I)upr4,  Landscape;  736.  Female  head; 

725.  Alex.  Defaux,  Spring;  726.  Gilbert  Stuart,  George  Washington;  752. 
Bouiigny,  The  Revolt  at  Pavia;  727.  Becker,  Emperor  Maximilian  receiving 
the  Venetian  Embassy;  '"728.  Rosa  Bonheur,  Deer  m the  forest  (twilight). 


Museum  of  Art, 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  61 


Room  26,  to  tbe  W.  of  Room  25,  contains  the  ^Moore  Collection^  presented 
to  the  Museum  in  1891  and  including  Chinese  porcelain,  Japanese  textiles, 
bronze-work,  and  basket-work,  European,  Egyptian,  Greek,  and  Roman 
glass.  Oriental  ornaments,  and  Arabic  metal-work.  In  this  room  also  is 
a case  of  Tanagra  figurines.  — Room  27,  to  the  N.  of  Room  26,  is  devoted 
to  Chinese  Porcelain,  — Room  28  contains  the  Ellis  Collection  of  Arms  and 
Armour.  — In  Room  29  are  Collections  of  Old  Lace.,  presented  by  Mrs.  Astor, 
Mrs.  Smillie,  Mrs.  Stuart,  and  others.  — Room  30.  Japanese  Porcelain  and 
Pottery.  — Room  31.  Japanese  and  Chinese  Pottery  and  Porcelain. 

Room  32,  to  the  S.  of  R.  31,  is  the  Gallery  of  Gems.,  Coins.  Gold  and 
Silver  Ornaments.,  and  Miniatures.  The  lower  wall-cases  to  the  E.  contain 
the  "Cesnola  Collection  of  Cypriote  Ornaments  (mainly  from  Curium),  con- 
taining beautiful  specimens  of  gold  jewellery,  fibulae,  rings,  votive  or- 
naments, etc.  Some  are  of  gold  plated  with  silver.  The  sard  with  Boreas 
and  Orithyia  is  a very  fine  example  of  Greek  art  emerging  from  the  archaic 
stage,  and  the  chalcedony  with  the  Rape  of  Proserpine  ‘may  safely  be 
placed  at  the  head  of  all  that  is  known  in  the  archaic  style’.  — In  the 
S.W.  corner  is  the  Taylor- Johnson  Collection  of  Engraved  Gems.  In  the 
lower  W.  cases  are  Etruscan  and  Longohardic  Gold  Ornaments  and  the 
Collection  of  Cylinders.  Cases  to  the  !N.,  by  the  door,  contain  Enamelled 
Silver  Vase  and  Teaset  by  Tiffany,  and  some  notable  ^'Ancient  Gold  Ornaments., 
presented  by  Mr.  J.  P.  Morgan.  In  the  upper  row  of  cases  to  the  E.  are 
the  Gyrus  W.  Field  Medals  commemorating  the  Atlantic  Cable.,  the  Moses  Lazarus 
Collection  of  Miniatures  and  Snuff  Boxes.,  and  i\i.Q  Avery  Collection  of  Spoons. 
In  the  upper  S.  cases  are  the  Drexel.,  Phoenix.,  and  Baxter  Collections  of  Objects 
in  Gold  and  Silver  and  Gems.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  room  is  the  Bryant  Vase, 
by  Tiffany,  presented  to  the  poet  on  his  80th  birthday.  In  the  upper  W. 
cases  are  Old  Jewelry  and  Silver  Plate  presented  by  Miss  Lazarus  and  Mr. 
Duane  Pell.  In  the  N.E.  corner  are  Old  Silver  Plate  and  Battersea  Enamels. 
The  cases  in  the  middle  of  the  room  contain  the  Farman  Collection  of  Greek, 
Homan,  & Egyptian  Goins,  the  Hearn  Collection  of  Antique  Watches,  and  a 
Collection  of  Old  English  Silver  (all  on  loan). 

Room  33  is  devoted  to  Fans  and  Textile  Fabrics.  — Room  34.  Miscel- 
laneous Objects.  — The  remaining  N.E.  corner  of  this  floor.  Rooms  35-39, 
holds  the  Drexel  and  Crosby-Brown  Collections  of  Musical  Instruments.  Room  39 
shows  the  construction  and  development  of  musical  instruments  from  the 
primitive  shell  and  gourd  upwards. 

Near  the  N.W.  corner  of  Central  Park,  beginning  at  110th  St. 
and  extending  thence  to  123rd  St.,  is  the  long  and  narrow  Morning- 
side  Park  (PI.  N,  0,  2),  with  its  long  flights  of  steps  and  massive 
retaining  walls.  It  affords  good  views  of  Central  Park,  Washington 
Heights,  the  Harlem  River,  and  the  high  part  of  the  Ninth  Ave. 
El.  Ry.  (comp.  p.  13).  — On  the  W.  this  park  is  bounded  by 
Morning  side  Avenue  West  and  Morning  side  Heights,  the: site  of  several 
important  new  buildings.  At  the  corner  of  Morningside  Ave.  and 
112th  St.  is  the  new  Episcopal  Cathedral  of  St.  John  the  Divine 
(Pl.N,  2),  designed  by  Heins  and  Lafarge,  the  corner-stone  of  which 
was  laid  in  1892,  hut  the  building  of  which  has  not  progressed  very 
far.  The  Crypt,  including  the  curious  Tiffany  Chapel  of  mosaic  glass 
(altar  made  of  150,000  separate  bits  of  glass),  and  the  Belmont  or 
St.  Saviours  Chapel  are  the  only  portions  completed.  One  of  the 
great  arches  of  the  crossing  has  also  been  erected,  and  the  huge 
granite  columns  of  the  choir  (over  50  ft.  high)  will  soon  be  in 
place.  On  the  walls  of  the  crypt  are  hung  two  of  the  so-called 
‘Barberini  Tapestries’,  eight  of  which,  executed  at  Rome  in  the 
17th  cent.,  were  bequeathed  to  the  cathedral  by  Mrs.  E.  Y.  Coles. 


62  Route  2,  NEW  YORK.  Columbia  University. 

Services  are  held  in  the  crypt  on  Sun.  and  on  week-day  afternoons 
(5  p.m.);  it  is  open  to  the  public  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  & Sat.,  4-6; 
hut  visits  may  he  arranged  for  at  other  times  also.  A large  model 
of  the  choir,  20  ft.  long,  may  he  seen  in  the  cathedral  grounds  on 
application.  — To  the  N.  of  this,  in  the  block  hounded  by  Morning- 
side  Ave.,  10th  Ave.,  113th  St.,  and  114th  St.,  is  the  large  building 
of  St.  Luke’s  Hospital  (PI.  N,  2),  constructed  of  white  marble  and 
white  pressed  brick,  with  a tower  and  clock  over  the  main  entrance. 
This  structure,  handsome  as  it  is,  has  received  a good  deal  of 
criticism  on  the  score  of  various  unpractical  details. 

To  the  N.W.  of  this  point,  on  a magnificent  site,  110-150  ft. 
above  the  Hudson  River,  are  the  new  buildings  of  ^Columbia  Uni- 
versity (PI.  N,  0,  1,  2),  the  oldest,  largest,  and  most  important 
educational  institution  in  New  York.  It  has  about  500  professors 
and  instructors  and  3700  students,  and  ranks  with  the  foremost 
universities  of  America.  Among  its  alumni  are  Gouverneur  Morris, 
John  Jay,  Alexander  Hamilton,  Hamilton  Fish,  andDe  Witt  Clinton. 
The  buildings  are  open  on  week-days  from  9 to  6 (library  till 
11  p.m.).  The  grounds  contain  about  35  acres. 

Columbia  was  founded  by  royal  charter  in  1754  under  the  name  of 
King’s  College,  and  the  first  college  building  was  erected  near  the  lower 
end  of  the  island.  In  1776  the  college  was  suspended  owing  to  its  ‘Tory’ 
proclivities,  but  in  1784  it  was  re-incorporated  as  Columbia  College.  In 
1787  it  was  transferred  to  an  independent  board  of  trustees.  In  1857  the 
college  was  removed  to  the  corner  of  49th  St.  and  Madison  Ave.,  where  it 
remained  until  its  transference  to  the  present  site  in  1897.  In  1890  the 
institution  was  reorganized  on  a broad  university  basis,  and  it  now 
consists  of  Columbia  College  proper,  affording  a liberal  undergraduate 
course,  and  of  the  six  faculties  of  Law,  Medicine,  Applied  Science,  Political 
Science,  Philosophy,  and  Pure  Science. 

The  finest  of  the  University  buildings  is  the  "'Library,  designed  by 
Chas.  F.  McKim  and  erected  by  Mr.  Seth  Low,  President  of  the  University 
from  1890  to  1901,  as  a memorial  to  his  father.  It  is  a Greek  structure 
surmounted  by  a flat  dome,  and  stands  upon  a lofty  terrace  approached 
by  several  broad  flights  of  steps.  The  interior,  which  is  admirably  equipped, 
contains  about  350,000  volumes.  The  fine  figure  of  ‘Alma  Mater’  on  the 
steps  ascending  to  the  library  is  by  Dan.  C.  French  (1903j.  To  the  N.  of 
the  library  is  the  University  Hall  (unfinished),  containing  a gymnasium, 
a swimming  tank,  and  the  University  Commons.  The  other  buildings  al- 
ready finished  are  Schermerhorn  Hall  (natural  sciences),  Havemeyer  Hall 
(chemistry  and  architecture),  Fayerweather  Hall  (physics  and  astronomy), 
the  Engineering  Building.,  and  Earl  Hall.,  a building  for  the  use  of  students 
(p.  41).  All  these  are  equipped  with  every  modern  improvement.  A Chapel., 
a Dormitory.,  and  a building  for  the  new  School  of  Journalism  are  now 
in  progress.  The  Library  will  occupy  the  centre  of  the  finished  quadrangle. 
On  the  Engineering  Building  is  a tablet  commemorthe  battle  of  Harlem 
Heights  (p.  64).  — The  medical  school  of  Columbia  is  the  College  of  Phy- 
sicians and  Surgeons  in  W.,  59th  St.,  between  9th  and  10th  Avenues  (p.  51), 
which  is  handsomely  endowed  (by  the  Vanderbilt  family)  and  thoroughly 
equipped.  The  total  endowment  of  the  University  is  $ 20,(K)0,000,  and  the 
value  of  its  buildings  and  collectionsis  $18,000,000. 

The  adjacent  Barnard  College  (PI.  K,  O,  1),  offering  an  undergraduate 
course  for  women  (450  students),  and  Teachers  College  (PI.  0, 1 ; 3000  students), 
a professional  school  of  education,  although  independent  corporations 
financially,  are  integral  parts  of  the  educational  system  of  the  University. 
Parnard  College  has  three  large  buildings  and  Teachers  College  has  six. 


Grant's  Tomb, 


NEW  YORK. 


2,  Route,  63 


The  stately  *Riverside  Drive  or  Park  (PI.  K-0, 1),  skirting  the 
hills  fronting  on  the  Hudson  from  72nd  St.  to  127th  St.  (ca.  3 M.),  is 
one  of  the  most  striking  roads  that  any  city  can  hoast  of  and  affords 
beautiful  views  of  the  river.  Numerous  handsome  private  houses 
and  large  apartment-hotels  have  sprung  up  along  it,  and  it  has 
become,  perhaps,  the  most  attractive  residential  quarter  of  New 
York.  The  foundations  of  many  of  the  buildings  had  to  be  hewn 
out  of  the  solid  rock.  Between  73rd  and  74th  Sts.  is  the  gorgeous 
new  House  of  Mr.  Schwab.  The  curious  long  yellow  Wilding 
between  85th  and  86th  Sts.  is  a fashionable  School  for  Girls. 
Opposite  89th  St.,  finely  placed  on  the  bluff  overlooking  the  Hudson 
(*View),  is  the  Soldiers  & Sailors  Monument  (PI.  L,  1),  designed 
by  C.  W.  Stoughton^  A.  A,  Stoughton,  ^ndPaulE.  Duhoy,  and  erected 
in  1902  ‘to  commemorate  the  valour  of  the  soldiers  and  sailors  who 
in  the  Civil  War  fought  in  defence  of  the  Union’.  It  is  in  the  form 
of  a small  circular  Greek  temple,  resembling  the  Choragic  Monument 
of  Lysicrates,  with  a peristyle  of  12  Corinthian  columns  and  a frieze 
of  spread  eagles.  The  material  is  white  marble.  A fine  echo  may 
be  awakened  inside  the  monument.  In  front  of  the  monument  is  a 
copy  of  Houdon's  Statue  of  Washington  (p.  409).  The  striking  brick 
house,  with  white  marble  facings,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  way  is 
that  of  Mr.  I.  L.  Rice.  The  one  next  to  it  (N.E.  corner  of  89th  St.) 
was  built  for  Mrs.  A Corning  Clark,  now  wife  of  Bishop  Potter. 
No.  312,  just  beyond  104th  St.,  is  the  home  of  Richard  Mansfield, 
the  actor. 

Near  theN.  end  of  the  drive,  on  Claremont  Heights  (W.  122nd  St.), 
is  the  Tomb  of  General  Ulysses  S.  Grant  (PI.  0,  1 ; 1822-85),  a huge 
and  solid  mausoleum  of  white  granite,  erected  in  1891-97  at  a cost 
of  $ 600,000  (120,000^.),  from  a design  by  J.  H.  Duncan.  The  mon- 
ument, which  is,  perhaps,  somewhat  disappointing  in  its  general 
proportions  and  effect,  consists  of  a lower  story  in  the  Doric  style, 
90  ft.  square,  surmounted  by  a cupola  borne  by  Ionic  columns.  The 
total  height  is  150  ft  (fine  view  from  the  cupola). 

The  arrangemerit  of  the  interior  is  analogous  to  that  of  Napoleon’s 
tomb^  at  the  Hotel  des  Invalides,  and  the  general  effect  is  much  more  im- 
pressive than  the  exterior.  The  red  porphyry  sarcophagus  containing  the 
body  of  Gen.  Grant  (1822-85)  is  placed  in  an  open  crypt  below  the  centre 
of  the  domej  by  its  side  is  a similar  sarcophagus  containing  th©  remains 
of  his  wife.  The  pendentives  of  the  dome  are  adorned  with  a\to-relief8 
emblematic  of  the  life  of  Gen.  Grant,  by  J.  Massey  Rhind.  A small  ad- 
joining room  contains  flags  of  regiments  engaged  in  the  Civil  War. 

Near  Grant’s  tomb  is  a Gingko  Tree  ( Salishuria  adiantifolia) , planted  in 
Yang-Yu,  representing  Li-Hung  Chang  (tablets  in  English 
and.  Chinese).  The  '‘Tomb  of  the  Amiable  Child"  (d.  1797),  enclosed  by  a 
railing  on  the  edge  of  Riverside  Drive,  near  Grant’s  Monument,  generally 
attracts  attention. 

Park  Carriages  ply  along  Riverside  Drive  from  W.  72nd  St.  to  the 
Grant  Monument  and  back  for  a fare  of  25  c.  (stop-over  tickets,  available 
mr  any  later  carriage,  issued  without  extra  charge).  — The  S.  end  of  the 
Drive  may  be  reached  by  the  Columbus  Ave.  surface  cars  (p.  14)  or  by  the 
Sixth  Ave.  ‘El’  to  72nd  St.  (1/2  M.).  Visitors  in  Central  Park  may  use  thp 
electric  omnibuses  running  from  the  cor.  of  Fifth  Ave.  and  59th  St.  to 


64  Route  2. 


NEW  YORK.  Washington  Heights. 


the  S.  end  of  Riverside  Drive  (comp.  p.  51).  The  N.  end  of  the  Drive 
may  he  reached  by  the  cars  on  125th  St.  (p.  16). 

Visitors  to  Grant’s  Tomb  may  obtain  luncheon  at  the  Claremont  Hotel 
(PI.  0,  1),  at  the  extreme  end  of  Riverside  Drive. 

To  the  N.  of  Riverside  Park  lies  the  district  of  Manhattanville, 
containing  many  old  residences  and  the  Convent  of  the  Sacred 
Heart  (PI.  P,  2),  with  its  fine  grounds.  A fine  viaduct  crossing  the 
Manhattanville  valley  leads  to  a prolongation  of  the  Riverside  Drive 
on  the  heights  to  the  N.  The  Sheltering  Arms,  at  the  corner  of 
Amsterdam  Ave.  and  129th  St.,  is  a refuge  for  destitute  children. 
Between  138th  St.,  Amsterdam  Ave.,  140th  St.,  and  St.  Nicholas 
Ave.  are  the  new  buildings  of  the  City  of  Hew  York  College  (PI.  P,  2 ; 
comp.  p.  49),  the  foundation  stone  of  which  was  laid  in  Oct.,  1903. 
In  143rd  St.,  between  Amsterdam  Ave.  and  West  End  Ave.,  is  the 
Coloured  Orphan  Asylum.  Between  153rd  and  155th  Sts.,  adjoining 
the  river,  is  Trinity  Church  Cemetery  (PI.  Q,  1,  2),  in  two  sections 
united  by  a bridge  over  the  Boulevard.  This  was  the  scene  of  the 
hardest  fighting  in  the  battle  of  Harlem  Heights  (Sept.  16th,  1776). 

The  picturesque  district  of  ^Washington  Heights,  extending 
from  about  this  point  to  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  and  from  the 
Hudson  to  the  Harlem,  repays  a visit  and  affords  fine  views  of  the 
Hudson  and  the  Palisades  (p.  187). 

This  district,  which  is  now  a favourite  residence  quarter,  was  the  ground 
of  desperate  conflicts  during  the  Revolutionary  period.  A few  remains  still 
exist,  between  182nd  and  186th  Sts.,  of  Fort  Washmgton  (on  the  highest  point 
of  the  island,  260  ft.  above  the  river),  which  was  heroically  but  unsuccessfully 
defended  against  the  British  in  Nov.,  1776,  after  the  battle  of  Harlem  Heights. 
Before  and  during  the  latter  battle  Washington  had  his  headquarters  at 
the  old  Jumel  House  (161st  St.,  overlooking  the  Harlem),  then  the  home  of 
Col.  Roger  Morris  and  his  wife  (Washington’s  old  love,  Mary  Phillipse). 
The  house  was  afterwards  bought  by  Mme.  Jumel , with  whom  Aaron 
Burr  lived  here  ‘during  the  days  of  his  octogenarian  love’,  and  is  now 
preserved  as  a museum  by  the  ‘Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution’, 
while  the  ground  around  it  is  now  a public  park.  The  Grange.^  the  home 
of  Alex.  Hamilton.^  lies  at  the  corner  of  Tenth  Ave.  and  14lst  St.^  Near  the 
house  are  13  trees  planted  by  Hamilton  to  symbolise  the  13  Original  States. 
The  house  originally  occupied  by  Audubon^  the  naturalist,  is  on  the  river, 
at  the  foot  of  155th  St. 

At  the  corner  of  Eleventh  Ave.  and  163rd  St.  is  the  Institution  for  the 
Instruction  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  (500  pupils),  at  176th  St.  is  the  Juvenile 
Asylum.^  and  at  Amsterdam  (Tenth)  Ave.  and  191st  St.  is  the  Isabella  Home.^ 
a handsome  Renaissance  building  for  the  aged.  The  rocky  bluff  on  which 
the  latter  stands  is  known  as  Fort  George^  from  a redoubt  built  here 
during  the  Revolution,  and  has  become  a popular  resort,  with  shows,  car- 
roussels,  etc.  (Fort  George  Hotel  db  Gafi.^  with  fine  view,  open  in  summer 
only).  The  drive  known  as  the  Speedway.,  skirting  the  river  (comp.  p.  21), 
is  continued  by  the  Lafayette  Boulevard.,  under  Fort  Washington.  The 
scene  here  on  any  fine  afternoon  is  well  worth  a visit. 

Of  tke  bridges  crossing  the  Harlem  River  two  only  call  for  special 
remark:  High  Bridge  and  Washington  Bridge.  *High  Bridge, 
at  175th  St.,  constructed  to  carry  the  Croton  Aqueduct  (p.  65) 
across  the  Harlem,  is  1460  feet  long  and  consists  of  13  arches, 
the  highest  of  which  is  116  ft.  The  water  is  carried  across  in  iron 
pipes  protected  by  brick-work,  and  above  is  the  bridge-way,  for 


The  Bronx, 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  65 


walkers  only  (*Yiew).  Tkere  is  a restaurant  at  tlie  E.  end  of  tke 
bridge.  A good  view  is  also  obtained  from  the  embankment  of  tbe 
Reservoir,  at  the  end  of  the  bridge,  or  the  adjoining  Water  Tower. 
A little  farther  up,  at  181st  St.,  is  the  ^Washington  Bridge,  con- 
structed in  1886-90  at  a cost  of  nearly  $ 2,700,000  (540, 000^.). 
It  is  of  steel,  except  the  stone  abutments  and  small  parts  of  iron, 
and  has  a total  length  of  2400  ft.,  with  two  central  arches,  each  of 
510ft.  span.  The  roadway,  which  is  asphalted,  is  150  ft.,  the  lower 
centre  of  the  arches  135  ft.  above  the  river. 

A convenient  way  to  visit  these  two  bridges  is  to  take  the  Sixth  Ave. 
El.  Ry.  to  155th  St.  and  go  thence  by  the  Putnam  Divi^^ion  of  the  Y. 
C.  & H.  R.  R.  (without  descending  to  the  street;  fare  5c.)  to  the  foot  of 
High  Bridge.  We  then  cross  the  bridge  and  walk  along  the  W.  bank  of  the 
Harlem  to  Washington  Bridge,  whence  we  return  by  street-car  to  125th  St. 
(El.  Ry.  on  Eighth  Ave.).  A hard  climb  is  avoided  by  reversing  this  route. 

The  Central  or  McComVs  Dam  Bridge  (PI.  Q.  3)  and  the  Viaduct  connecting 
it  with  the  top  of  Washington  Heights  (lo5th  St.)  are  other  important 
engineering  works  of  recent  date. 

The  Water  Supply  of  New  York  is  obtained  from  the  watershed 
of  the  Croton.,  a stream  in  Westchester  Co.,  about  40  M.  from  New  York. 
The  Old  Croton  Aqueduct.,  which  crosses  the  High  Bridge  (p.  64),  M'^as  con- 
structed in  1842  and  has  a capacity  of  about  100  million  gallons  a day. 
The  -'New  Croton  Aqueduct^  a wonderful  piece  of  engineering,  constructed 
in  1883-90,  at  a cost  of  about  $25,000,000  (5,000,000;.),  is  in  the  form  of 
a tunnel,  14  ft.  high,  at  an  average  depth  of  150ft.  below  the  surface. 
It  is  carried  under  the  Harlem  River  at  a depth  of  300  ft.  below  the 
river-bed,  and  has  an  estimated  daily  capacity  of  about  300  million  gallons. 
Both  aqueducts  discharge  their  waters  at  Central  Park,  where  the  large 
reservoir  (see  p.  51)  has  a capacity  of  1,000,000,000  gallons.  The  iron 
mains  distributing  the  water  through  the  city  have  an  aggregate  length 
of  730  M.  The  dam  of  the  Croton  Water  Works  at  Quaker  Bridge  is  1350  ft. 
long,  277  ft.  high,  and  216  ft.  wide  at  the  base. 

A Bhip  Canal,  completed  in  1895,  at  a cost  of  $ 2,700,000,  to  improve 
the  navigation  of  the  Harlem  River  (which  is  simply  a tidal  channel), 
affords  a channel  from  Long  Island  Sound  to  the  Hudson  River  for  vessels 
drawing  not  more  than  10  ft. 

The  Borougb  of  the  Bronx,  or  that  part  of  New  York  to  the  N. 
and  E.  of  the  Harlem,  is  at  present  of  comparatively  little  import- 
ance to  the  visiting  stranger,  though  daily  increasing  in  interest  and 
amenity.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  small  river  Bronx.,  and  includes 
Morrisania  (perpetuating  the  name  of  Goiiverneur  Morris),  West 
Farms.,  Fordham^  Mott  Haven.,  WilUamshridge  (a  favourite  Sun.  resort 
of  French  residents),  and  several  other  villages  now  incorporated 
with  the  city.  The  Bronx  is  traversed  by  several  lines  of  tramways, 
by  the  Elevated  Railway  (p.  13),  and  by  the  New  York  Central  and 
New  Haven  & Hartford  railways  (p.  7). 

Among  the  large  new  park-spaces  here,  not  yet  fully  laid  out, 
are  Van  Cortlandt  Park  (1130  acres),  Bronx  Park  (660  acres), 
Crotona  Park  (155  acres),  and  Pelham  Bay  Park  (1755  acres), 
adjoining  Long  Island  Sound,  4 M.  to  the  E.  of  Bronx  Park  and  15  M. 
from  the  City  Hall.  All  these  either  are,  or  are  to  be,  connected  by 
boulevards.  — In  Yan  Cortlandt  Park  is  the  Van  Cortlandt  Mayi- 
sion,  built  in  1748  and  now  fitted  up  as  a Museum  of  Colonial  and 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  r. 


NEW  YORK. 


Zoological  Society. 


66  Route  2. 


Revolutionary  Relics  (open  daily,  10-6,  in  tvinterlO-5;  Sun.,  2-6; 
adm.  25  c.  on  Tliurs.,  free  on  other  days).  — The  S.  part  of  Bronx 
Park  is  occupied  hy  the  grounds  of  the  *New  York  Zoological 
Society  ( adm.  on  Mon.  & Thurs.  25  c,,  on  other  days  free),  with  an 
area  of  260  acres  (London  Zoological  Garden,  36  acres). 

The  primary  object  of  this  society  is  to  secure  herds  oi  large  N. 
American  quadrupeds  and  to  place  them  as  far  as  possible  in  surround- 
ings identical  with  or  closely  resembling  their  natural  haunts.  Thus  the 
bisons  have  a range  of  15  acres,  the  wapiti  15  acres,  the  moose  8 acres, 
and  so  on.  Among  other  novel  features  is  the  effort  to  make  the  animals 
accessible  to  artists  and  students,  and  several  studios  have  been  provided 
in  the  larger  buildings.  Among  the  important  points  are  the  Reptile  House, 
the  Lion  House,  the  Ape  & Monkey  House  (well  ventilated),  the  Antelope 
House,  the  Bear  Dens,  and  the  so-called  Flying  Cage  (aquatic  birds  ^ 152  ft. 
long  72  ft.  wide,  and  55  ft.  high).  One  of  the  natural  features  in  the  Zoo 
is  a rocking  stone,  a granite  boulder  weighing  30  tons  hut  easily  moved 
by  hand.  — The  Zoo  contains  a restaurant. 

The  Botanical  Gardens,  at  the  N.  end  of  Bronx  Park,  contain  extensive 
greenhouses  and  a large  museum  known  as  the  Horticultural  House. 

Bronx  Park  is  most  easily  reached  by  the  Third  Ave.  El.B.  B.  or  the 
Harlem  Division  of  the  New  York  Central  R.  R.  to  Bronx  Park  (5  c.),  near 
the  Horticultural  House,  or  to  Fordham.^  about  3/4  M.  from  the  Zoo  (carriages 
in  waiting  in  summer). 


Jerome  Avenue,  heginiiiiig  at  McComb’s  Dam  Bridge,  and  West- 
Chester  Avenue  (Pi.  Q,  5)  are  favourite  drives  (comp.  p.  21).  The 
new  Grand  Boulevard  & Concourse,  begun  in  1902  to  provide 
communication  between  Manhattan  and  tbe  parks  in  tbe  N.  part  of 
the  Bronx,  begins  at  tbe  corner  of  Mott  Ave.  and  161st  St.  and  will 
extend  thence  to  (4^2  ^0  ^1^®  Mosholu  Parkway,  connecting  Bronx 
Park  with  Van  Cortlandt  Park.  It  is  60  yds.  in  width. 

The  Islands  in  the  East  River  contain  various  charitable  and  cor- 
rectional institutions  belonging  to  the  city  or  the  state,  permission  to  visit 
which  may  be  obtained  from  the  Commissioners  of  Public  Chanties,  at  the 
foot  of  E.  26th  St.  (ferry).  BlackioelVs  Island  (PI.  H-K,  5),  120  acres  in 
extent,  is  a long  narrow  island,  extending  from  about  50th  St.  to  obth  St., 
and  containing  the  Penitentiary,  Female  Lunatic  Asylum,  Workhouse, 
Alms  Houses,  Blind  Asylum,  and  Charity  Hospitals.  To  be  sent  to  the 
Island"’  is  the  New  York  euphemism  for  committal  to  the  Penitentiary. 
Ward''s  Island  (PI.  M,  N,  5^  200  acres),  opposite  110th  St.,  has  the  Manhattan 
State  Lunatic  Asylum,  the  State  Emigrant  Hospital,  Houses  of  Refuge,  a 
Children’s  Home,  and  a Soldiers"*  Home.  Ward’s  Island  is  separated  trom 
Astoria  and  Blackwell’s  Island  by  BeU  Gate  (PI.  M,  6),  a sharp  bend  in  the 
river,  through  which  the  water  rushes  at  a great  rate.  The  sunken  reels 
which  formerly  made  it  highly  dangerous  to  navigation  were  removed  by 
nitro-glycerine  explosions  in  18T6  and  1885.  On  Randall  s IslandJ^l.  N,  O,  5), 
to  the  N.  of  Ward’s  and  opposite  the  Harlem  River,  are  the  Idiot  Asylum, 
a House  of  Refuge,  and  the  Nursery,  Children’s,  and  Infants’  Hospitals. 
The  Islands  in  the  Harbour  have  been  described  at  p.  3. 


Environs  of  New  York. 

(1)  Staten  Island  (ferry  from  Whitehall  St.  to  St.  George  in  V4;V2  hr. ; 
fare  to  St.  George  5 c.,  thence  to  any  other  station  between  Erastina  and 
South  Beach  5c.).  — Staten  Island,  on  the  S.  side  of  New  York  Harbour, 
separated  from  New  Jersey  by  the  Staten  Island  Sound  or  Arthur  s Kill  and 
the  Kill  van  Full  and  from  Long  Island  by  the  Narrows  (p.  2),  has  an  area  ot 
about  60  sq.  M.  and  (1900)  67,000  inhabitants.  It  is  conterminous  with  the 


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Environs. 


NEW  YORK. 


2.  Route.  67 


Borough  of  Bichmond  (p.  27).  The  surface  of  the  island  is  diversified  and 
hilly  (highest  point,  415  ft.),  and  it  is  dotted  with  small  villages  and  the 
villas  of  New  Yorkers.  The  hills  afford  good  views  of  New  York  Harbour 
and  the  ocean.  Among  the  best  of  its  fine  drives  is  the  Richmond  Terrace., 
skirting  the  N.  shore.  From  St.  George  (St.  George  Hotel)  railways  (Staten 
Island  Rapid  Transit)  run  to  the  W.  along  the  N.  shore,  to  the  S.E.  to  Fori 
Wadsworth  and  South  Beach.,  and  to  the  S.  to  Tottenville.,  diverging  from  the 
South  Beach  line  at  Clifton.  The  first-mentioned  line  passes  (1  M.)  New 
Brighton  (Castleton,  from  $ 3V2^  Pavilion,  from  $ 3,  etc.),  the  largest  village 
in  the  island,  with  numerous  villas  and  hotels ; 1^/4  M.  Sailors'  Snug  Ear- 
hour.,  with  a large  Seamen’s  Asylum  (1000  inmates ; income  $ 100,000),  on 
the  lawn  of  which  is  a fine  statue  of  its  founder  R.  R.  Randall,  by  St.  Gau- 
dens  \ 2V2  M.  Livingston.,  with  the  Staten  Island  Cricket  Club,  the  Staten 
Island  Athletic  Club,  etc.;  4 M.  Port  Richmond.,  with  the  house  (now 
a hotel),  in  which  Aaron  Burr  died  in  1836 ; 5^/2  M.  Erastina  or  Mariner's 
Harhor  (Bayside),  with  the  pleasure-resort  called  the  Erastina  Grove. 
Beyond  Erastina  the  railway  crosses  the  Sound  to  New  Jersey.  — At  (1  M.) 
Tompkinsville  (Nautilus),  on  the  South  Beach  line,  are  the  headquarters  of 
the  Seawanhaka  Yacht  Club  (p.  20);  I3/4  M Stapleton,  the  birthplace  of 
Commodore  Cornelius  Vanderbilt  (1794-1877),  who  took  the  first  steps^'o- 
wards  amassing  his  huge  fortune  by  starting  a ferry  to  New  York ; 272  M 
Clifton,  with  a house  once  occupied  by  Garibaldi ; 3^/2  M.  Fort  Wadsworth 
(p.  3);  4^2  M.  Arrochar  (Arrochar  Park  Hotel);  M.  South  or  Richmond 
Beach,  apopular  day-resort  for  NewYorkers  (boating,  bathing,  etc  ).  — The 
longest  line  is  that  running  S.  to  Tottenville.  Beyond  Clifton  (see  above) 
it  passes^  (6  M.)  Grant  City  (Atlantic  Inn),  with  the  mausolea  of  the  Vander- 
bilt family;  91/2  M.  Giffords,  a fishing-resort;  11  M.  Woods  of  Arden,  with 
picnic  grounds;  13  M.  Princess  Bay,  another  fishing -place;  16  M.  Tottenville 
(Excelsior  Hotel),  with  the  old  Billop  House  (ca.  16?0),  where  Gen.  Howe 
met  Franklin  and  John  Adams  after  the  battle  of  Long  Island  (p.  69). 
Tottenville  is  connected  by  ferry  with  Perth  Amboy  (p.  2T6).  — Electric 
Tramways,  mostly  starting  at  St.  George,  also  tra\"erse  the  island  in  vari- 
ous directions  (to  Prohibition  Park,  Midland  Beach,  etc  ).  — Many  points 
in  the  interior  of  the  island  are  still  very  quiet  and  primitive,  and  the 
pedestrian  will  find  numerous  pleasant  walks. 

(2).  New  Jersey  Shore.  The  cities  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Hudson 
or  N.  River,  immediately  opposite  New  York,  though  practically  forming 
part  of  that  city,  are  in  a different  state  (New  Jersey)  and  under  inde- 
pendent government.  They  offer  little  of  special  interest  for  the  tourist. 
Ferries,  see  p.  17.  — Jersey  City  {T ay  I or' s Hotel.  R.  from  $ 1),  the  southern- 
most and  largest,  with  a population  of  (1900)  2 6,433,  contains  many  glass- 
works, sugar-refineries,  machine-shops,  foundries,  and  other  industrial 
establishments,  the  stations  of  several  of  the  railways  centring  at  New  York 
(comp.  p.  8),  and  the  docks  of  a few  of  the  Transatlantic  steamship  com- 
panies. With  the  exception  of  a few  churches  and  the  city-hall,  it  has 
almost  no  handsome  buildings.  — To  the  N.  of  Jersey  City  lies  Hoboken 
(MeyeFs  Hotel,  $21/2-3,  R.  from  $1;  Ndgelis  Hotel,  $21/2;  Busch),  with 
large  silk-factories  and  (1900)  59,364  inhab.,  a large  proportion  of  whom 
are  Germans.  It  also  contains  the  wharves  of  some  European  steamships. 
Stevens  Park,  on  the  river,  contains  the  Stevens  Institute,  a polytechnic 
school  of  good  reputation.  Castle  Stevens,  the  house  of  its  founder,  the  late 
Commodore  Stevens,  is  on  the  hill  above.  Farther  to  the  N.  lies  Weehawken, 
with  5325  inhabitants.  It  was  the  scene  of  the  duel  between  Alex.  Hamil- 
ton and  Aaron  Burr;  and  the  boulder  on  which  the  former  fell  when  shot 
is  railed  in  on  the  edge  of  the  bluff,  to  which  it  was  carried  up  from  the 
scene  of  the  duel  below.  On  it  is  a bust  of  Hamilton.  An  electric  tramway 
along  the  Palisades  (fine  views)  to  Hudson  Heights  (5  c.),  Edgewater 
(10  c.),  Fort  Lee  (see  below),  Linwood  or  Coyterville  (20  c.),  and  Englewood  (p.  68). 

Guttenberg  (3825  inhab.),  on  the  hill  behind  Weehawken,  has  a large 
brewery,  with  a beer-garden  on  the  roof.  — Behind  Hoboken  lies  Hudson 
^ty,  with  the  Schiitzen  Park,  a favourite  resort  of  the  Germans  of  New 
York.  — Fort  Lee,  on  the  site  of  the  revolutionary  fort  of  that  name,  at 

5^ 


68  Boute  3. 


NEW  YORK. 


Environs. 


the  point  where  the  higher  part  of  the  Palisades  (p.  187)  begins,  nearly 
opposite  170th  St.,  is  now  the  property  of  an  Association,  which  has  built 
a hotel  and  pavilion  and  laid  out  the  small  Palisades  Park.  Boating  and 
bathing  are  among  the  attractions.  It  is  reached  by  ferry  from  Canal  St. 
(15  c.)  or  by  ferry  from  130th  St.  to  Edgewater  (p.  6T)  and  thence  (IV2  M.) 
by  electric  car.  The  car-ride  may  be  extended  to  the  N.  to  Englewood 
(Palisade  Ho.,  Germania  Hotel,  $2).  r r 1 ^ t,  q 

(3)  Brooklyn^  Coney  Island^  and  other  resorts  on  Long  Island^  see  K.  6. 

Among  other  points  to  which  excursions  are  easily  made  from  New 
York  &VG  Long  Branch  and  the  other  seaside  resorts  of  the  New  Jersey 
coast  (see  R.  33);  Yonkers,  Dobbs  Ferry,  Tarry lown,  and  other  points  on 
the  Hudson  (see  R.  21);  Glen  Island  (p.  88),  New  Rochelle.^  other  places 
on  Long  Island  Sound  (R.  4) ; and  Greenwood  Lake  (p.  L45). 

From  New  York  to  Yonkers  by  Tramway.  The  following  is  probably 
one  of  the  longest  trips  by  ‘trolley’  or  electric  tramway  that  can  anywhere 
be  made  for  5 c.  From  the  N.  end  of  Central  Bridge  (p.  65),  past  (31/2  3L) 
Jerome  Park,  (43/4  M.)  Woodlawn  Cemetery,  and  the  E.  entrance  of  Van  Cort- 
landt  Park  (p.  65)  to  (9  Yi.)  Yonkers,  and  then  back  (by  transfer),  pist 
the  W.  gate  of  Van  Cortlandt  Park,  to  (6  M.)  Kingsbridge  (p.  14). 

From  New  York  to  Pctnam  Junction  (Brewster),  54  M.,  railway 
(Putnam  Division  of  N.  Y.  C.  & H.  R.  R.  R.)  in  2-2V4  hrs  TMs  line  passing 
the  suburban  resorts  of  Westchester  County,  begins  at  the  15oth  St.  station 
of  the  Sixth  Ave.  Elevated  Railroad  (comp,  p-  65).  — 1 M.  Bridge 

(p  64);  2M.  Morris  Heights.  — 21/2  M.  University  or  Fordham  Heights, 
the  handsome  new  buildings  of  New  York  University  (comp.  p.  42).  These 
buildings,  splendidly  situated  on  a high  bluff  commanding  a hne  view  ot 
the  Harlem,  the  Hudson,  the  Palisades,  and  Long  Island  Sound,  include  a 
beautiful  -Library,  designed  by  Stanford  White  (40,000  vols. ; especially 
rich  in  Oriental  and  Germanic  literature),  a Hall  of  Languages,  a Chemical 
Laboratorv,'  a gymnasium,  etc.  The  Hall  of  Fame  for  (>reat  Americans, 
presented  by  Miss  Helen  Gould  and  half  encircling  the  contains 

panels  with  the  names  of  distinguished  Americans;  the  first  five  selected 
were  Vfashington,  Lincoln,  Webster,  Franklin,  and  Grant.  The  unive^i  y, 
which  was  founded  in  1831  as  an  undenominational  corporation  on  a liberal 
basis,  is  now  attended  by  2100  students,  taught  by  212  instructors.  In 
Kinesbridge  Road,  Fordham,  is  a cottage  m which  E.  A.  Poe  lived  from 
1844  to  1849  and  wrote  ‘Ulalume’,  ‘Annabel  Lee,  eic.  5 M.  Van  Cort- 
landt, the  station  for  Van  Cortlandt  Park  (p.  65),  is  the  junction  of  a branch- 
line to  (3  M.)  Yonkers  (p.  191).  — At  (8  M.)  Dunwoodie,  with  a large  ^o^an 
Catholic  college,  we  pass  over  the  Croton  Aqueduct  (p.  65).  13 

Hope,  with  a well-known  golf-club.  — 2IV2  ISL.  Tar ryinwn  (P-  |92);  23  M. 
Pocaktico  Hills  (Berkeley  Inn);  27  M.  Briar cUf  Manor 

(331/2  M.)  Croton  Lake  we  cross  the  lake  by  a Balowin 

Place,  the  junction  for  (2  M.)  Mahopac  Falls;  45  M. 

House),  a summer-resort;  491/2  M.  Carmel,  on  Lake  Gleneida.  At  (54  M.) 
Putnam  Junction  (Brewster)  we  join  the  line  described  below. 

From  New  York  to  Chatham,  127  M , railway  ( 

N.  Y.  C.  dt  H.  R.  R.  R.)  in  31/2-41/2  hrs.  - lYom  New  York  ^ .jJ^'^^York 

lawn,  see  p.  76.  Our  line  crosses  the  boundary  of 
(p.  27)  and  follows  the  course  of  the  Bronx 

White  Plains;  25  M.  Kensico,  near  Lake  Kensico;  SI  Mt.  Kisco;ii  M. 
Golden" s Bridge,  the  junction  of  a 6^ m’ 

52  M.  Brewster,  junction  of  the  N.  H.  R.  R.  to  Hartford  (see  ^ 

Pawling  (700  ft.);  76  M.  Dover  Plains;  85  M.  Amenia;  921/2  U.  Millerton, 
1041/2  M.  Copake  Iron  Works,  5 M.  from  Mt.  Everett  (p.  17o).  At  (127  M.) 
Chatham  we  reach  the  Boston  & Albany  R.  R-  (see  p.  172  . 


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69 


3.  Brooklyn  and  Long  Island. 

Coney  Island.  Rockaway  Beach. 

Brooklyn.  — Hotels.  St.  George  (PI.  a;  C,  1),  Clark  St.,  one  of  the 
largest  hotels  in  the  United  States,  $ 272-5,  R.  from  $ i ; Margaret  (PI.  b ; 
C,  1),  97  Columbia  Heights,  from  $272;  Mansion  House  (PI.  C,  2), 
137-153  Hicks  St.,  Brooklyn  Heights,  $3-5,  all  near  Brooklyn  Bridge; 
Clarendon,  Washington  St.,  R.  from  $ 1;  Brevoort,  St.  Mark’s,  Bedford 
Ave.  — An  enormous  new  hotel.  The  Woodruff,  at  the  corner  of  Mon- 
tague & Hicks  Sts.  (PI.  C,  2),  will  be  opened  early  in  1905. 

Restaurants  at  the  hotels;  also,  Parker's.  Willoughby  St.;  Dennett's. 
Ghilds\  355  and  338  Fulton  St.  (comp.  p.  11). 

Railway  Stations.  Flathush  Avenue  Station  (PI.  D,  3),  Flatbush  Ave., 
cor.  Atlantic  Ave.,  and  Bushwick  Station.,  for  the  trains  of  the  Long  Island 
Railroad. 

Elevated  Railroads.  Six  lines  of  Elevated  Railway,  similar  to  those 
in  New  York  (p.  12),  traverse  Brooklyn  in  various  directions  (fare  5c.). 
Four  of  these  begin  at  the  New  York  end  of  Brooklyn  Bridge  (with 
branches  to  Fulton  Ferry),  and  one  starts  at  the  foot  of  Broadway  (odd 
Grand  St.,  New  York).  (Dornp.  p.  13.  , 

Tramways,  propelled  by  electricity  (‘trolley  lines’),  traverse  Brooklyn 
in  all  directions  and  extend  to  the  Ocean  resorts  at  Coney  Island,  etc. 
Most  of  them  now  start  at  the  New  York  end  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge 
(p.  36),  the  toll  for  crossing  which  is  included  in  the  fare  of  5 c. 

Ferries  to  New  York,  see  p.  17.  — Bridge  Cars,  see  p.  14.  — Post 
Office,  see  p.  70. 


Brooklyn^  with  a population  (1900)  of  1,166,582,  was  formerly 
the  fourth  city  of  the  United  States  in  size  and  industrial  interest, 
hut  now  forms  one  of  the  boroughs  of  Greater  New  York  (see  p.  27). 
It  lies  immediately  opposite  New  York,  at  the  W.  end  of  Long  Is- 
land, and  covers  an  area  of  about  65  sq.  M.  It  is  popularly  known 
as  the  ‘City  of  Churches’,  containing  no  fewer  than  490  ecclesiastical 
edifices,  and  has  also  been  called  the  ‘Dormitory  of  New  York’  from 
the  fact  that  so  many  of  its  residents  are  New  York  business  men 
and  women,  returning  to  Brooklyn  in  the  evening. 

Brooklyn  (Breuckelen)  was  founded  by  Walloons  in  1623,  the  first  set- 
tlement being  near  Wallabout  Bay  (p.  71).  The  most  outstanding  event 
in  its  history  is  the  battle  of  Long  Island  (Aug.  26th,  1776),  fought  on  the 
heights  behind  the  town,  in  which  the  British  defeated  the  Americans 
(see  p.  71).  It  was  incorporated  as  a town  in  1788,  when  its  population  did 
not  exceed  1500,  and  as  a city  in  1834  (pop.  about  30,000).  — The  annual 
value  of  Brooklyn’s  manufactures  is  about  S 300,000,000  (60,000,0007.).  They 
include  sugar  and  oil  refining,  ship-building,  meat-packing,  and  the  making 
of  chemicals,  cordage,  carpets,  and  boilers.  Its  commerce  is  also  very  im- 
portant. In  1890  Brooklyn  contained  833,547  inhabitants. 

Fulton  Street  (PL  C-F,  2,  3),  the  Broadway  of  Brooklyn, 
begins  at  Fulton  Ferry  (p.  17),  almost  under  the  shadow  of  Brook- 
lyn Bridge,  and  runs  hence  first  to  the  S.  and  then  to  the  E.,  with 
a total  length  of  6 M.  It  is  traversed  by  the  Elevated  Railroad  and 
several  trarnways.  Following  it  from  the  bridge  or  ferry,  we  soon 
reach  (10  min.)  an  open  space  in  front  of  the  Borough  Hall  (PI.  0, 2), 
a white  marble  building,  with  an  Ionic  portico  and  a tower.  Oppo-^ 
site  is  a spirited  statue  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher  (see  p.  70) , by 
J.  Q.  A.  Ward.  To  the  E.  of  Borough  Hall  is  the  County  Court 
House  (PI.  0,  2),  a handsome  edifice  in  a Corinthian  style.  Behind 


70  Route  3. 


BROOKLYN. 


Plymouth  Church. 


Borough  Hall,  adjoining  the  Court  House,  are  the  Municipal  Build- 
ings  (to  he  rebuilt)  and  the  Hall  of  Records  (now  being  heightened 
and  enlarged).  — At  the  corner  of  Washington  St.  and  Johnson  St., 
a little  to  the  N.  of  Borough  Hall  Square,  is  the  *Post  Office  (PI. 
C,  2),  a really  fine  building,  hut  not  seen  to  advantage.  Adjacent 
is  the  tall  building  of  the  Brooklyn  Daily  Eagle.,  a model  newspaper 
office,  to  which  visitors  are  welcome. 

From  Borough  Hall  Square  Montague  Street  (PI.  C,  2),  containing 
the  Art  Association  Building  (exhibitions  of  pictures),  and  the 
Brooklyn  Library  (170,000  vols.  ; now  a branch  of  the  Public  Lib- 
rary, p.  73),  leads  W.  to  the  river,  ending  in  a terrace  which  com- 
mands an  excellent  *View  of  New  York  and  the  harbour.  The 
district  in  which  we  now  find  ourselves,  known  as  * Brooklyn  or 
Columbia  Heights,  is,  perhaps,  the  pleasantest  part  of  the  city  and 
contains  many  of  the  finest  residences.  In  this  quarter  are  the  chief 
hotels  mentioned  at  p.  69,  numerous  large  apartment-houses,  and 
many  of  the  leading  clubs  (Brooklyn,  Crescent  Athletic,  Excelsior, 
Germania,  Hamilton,  Jefferson,  PI.  1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6;  C,2).  In  front  of  the 
Hamilton  Club  (cor.  Remsen  and  Clinton  Sts.)  is  a Statue  of  Alex 
Hamilton,  by  W.  0.  Partridge,  erected  in  1898.  The  ‘Heights’  (PI. 
C,  1)  rise  abruptly  from  the  river  to  an  elevation  of  70-100  ft.,  leav- 
ing at  their  base  room  for  a single  narrow  street.  Stores  and  residences 
have  been  sunk  into  the  front  of  these  bluffs,  forming  a series  of 
unique  ‘cave  dwellings’.  The  chief  street  of  the  ‘Heights’  and  a 
fashionable  Sunday  promenade  is  Clinton  Street  (PI.  C,  B,  2-5), 
extending  from  Fulton  St.  (crossing  Montague  St.)  to  Gowanus  Bay. 
In  this  street,  at  the  corner  of  Pierrepont  St.  (the  street  before  Mon- 
tague St.),  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  Long  Island  Historical 
Society  (PI.  C,  2),  which  possesses  a library  of  70,000  vols.  and  a 
small  museum.  In  Pierrepont  St.  are  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church 
(PI.  C,  2)  and  the  Unitarian  Church  of  the  Saviour  (cor.  of  Monroe 
Place;  PL  C,  2).  At  the  corner  of  Montague  St.  is  Holy  Trinity 
Church  (PL  C,  2),  the  leading  Episcopal  church  of  Brooklyn,  with 
a spire  275  ft.  high.  In  Remsen  St.,  the  next  cross-street,  at  the 
corner  of  Henry  St. , is  the  Congregational  Church  of  the  Pilgrims 
(PL  C,  2;  Rev.  Dr.  Dewey),  with  a piece  of  the  original  ‘Plymouth 
Rock’ ’(see  p.  116)  immured  in  its  facade.  A little  farther  on  in 
Clinton  St.,  at  the  corner  of  Livingston  St.  (left),  is  the  handsome 
Church  of  St.  Ann  (Episcopal;  PL  C,  2).  Clinton  St.  then  crosses 
Atl.vntic  Avenue  (PL  B-F,  2-4),  a wide  and  busy  street  descend- 
ing on  the  right  to  the  ferry  for  Whitehall  St.,  New  York  (p.  17). 

Plymouth  Church  (PL  C,  1;  Rev^  Dr.  Newell  D,  Hillis^,  the 
most  famous  ecclesiastical  edifice  in  Brooklyn , where  the  late 
Henry  Ward  Beecher  (d.  1887)  drew  crowds  for  40  years,  stands  at 
the  N.  end  of  the  Heights,  in  Orange  St.,  between  Hicks  St.  and 
Henry  St.,  1/3  M.  from  Brooklyn  Bridge.  It  is  a large  building 
without  architectural  pretensions. 


Prospect  Park. 


BROOKLYN. 


3.  Route.  71 


Returning  to  Borough  Hall  and  continuing  to  follow  Fulton  St. 
towards  the  E.,  we  soon  reach,  at  the  corner  of  Bond  St.  (right), 
the  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  (PI.  D,  2), 
with  a fine  gymnasium.  Fort  Greene  Place,  1/2  farther  on,  leads 
to  the  left  to  the  small  (3  min.)  Fort  Greene  Park  (PI.  D,  E,  2), 
laid  out  on  the  site  of  the  Revolutionary  earthworks  known  as  Fort 
Greene  and  containing  a statue  of  General  Fowler,  unveiled  in  1902. 
To  the  right  Fort  Greene  Place  leads  to  the  (5  min.)  Flatbush 
Station  (p.  69).  Clinton  Avenue  (Pi.  E,  1-3),  nine  blocks  farther 
on,  is,  perhaps,  the  handsomest  street  in  Brooklyn. 

In  Eyerson  St.,  between  Willoughby  and  De  Kalb  Avenues,  about 
V4  M.  to  the  E.  of  Clinton  Ave.,  are  the  extensive  buildings  of  the  ’'■‘Pratt 
Institute  (PI.  F,  2),  one  of  the  best  equipped  technical  institutions  in  the 
country,  founded  and  endowed  in  1884-87  by  Mr.  Charles  Pratt,  ‘to  promote 
manual  and  industrial  education,  and  to  inculcate  habits  of  industry  and 
thrift’.  Its  schools  of  technology,  domestic  science,  art,  music,  mechanics,  etc., 
are  attended  by  3500  students.  Visitors  are  admitted  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  & Frid., 
10-12,  2-4,  and  7.30-9;  the  Technical  Museum  is  open  daily,  8-5  (Sat.  9-12). 
The  Library,  built  in  1895,  contains  80,000  vols.  and  a large  collection  of 
prints.  None  interested  in  technical  education  should  fail  to  visit  this 
institution  (schools  closed,  June  1st  to  Oct.  1st). 

Clinton  Avenue  ends  on  theN.  at  theU.S.  Navy  Yard  (PI.  D,  E,  1) 
on  Wallabout  Bay,  the  chief  naval  station  in  the  country,  employing 
2000  men  (open  on  week-days,  9-4;  entr.inNavySt.,  opposite  Sands 
St.).  The  yard  proper  covers  about  45  acres,  while  100  acres  more 
belong  to  it.  Among  the  most  prominent  features  of  the  yard  are 
three  Dry  Docks,  465  ft.,  564  ft.,  and  307  ft.  long  respectively. 
Some  war-vessels  are  generally  moored  here,  while  others  are  on 
the  stocks.  To  the  E.  is  the  U.  S,  Naval  Hospital  (PI.  F,  1),  with  its 
pillared  front.  — Between  the  Navy  Yard  and  the  Hospital  is  the 
immense  Wallabout  Market  (PL  E,  F,  1),  covering  an  area  of  45 
acres.  Its  buildings  are  of  brick,  in  the  Dutch  style,  and  include  a 
quaint  clock- tower. 

The  largest  of  the  Docks  of  Brooklyn  is  the  Atlantic  Basin  (PI.  A,  B,  3), 
about  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  Bridge,  with  an  area  of  40  acres  and  2 M.  of 
wharfage.  About  2/4  M.  farther  to  the  S.,  on  Gow'anus  Bay,  are  the  Erie 
Docks  (PI.  A,  5). 

Perhaps  Brooklyn’s  chief  attraction  for  strangers  is  the  beautiful 
^Prospect  Park  (PI.  D,  E,  F,  4-7),  finely  situated  on  an  elevated  ridge 
in  the  S.W.  part  of  the  city  and  commanding  excellent  views  of 
Brooklyn,  New  York,  the  harbour,  the  ocean,  and  Long  Island. 

The  principal  entrance  is  at  the  end  of  Flatbush  Ave.  (PI.  E,  4;  tramway 
from  Fulton  Ferry),  and  the  Plaza  in  front  of  it  is  adorned  with  a "'•'Memorial 
Arch  for  soldiers  and  sailors  of  the  Civil  War,  surmounted  by  a fine 
quadriga  and  flanked  with  groups  representing  the  Army  and  Navy,  by 
Fred.  Macmonnies  (b.  at  Brooklyn  in  1864).  and  with  a fine  statue,  also 
by  Macmonnies  of  James  Btranahan  (1808-98).  Drive  through  the  park  in 
the  park-carriages  25  c.  each.  The  water-tower  near  the  main  entrance 
furnishes  the  finest  view  of  the  city  and  island. 

Prospect  Park,  which  has  an  area  of  520  acres,  is  not  so  elaborately 
laid  out  as  Central  Park,  but  has,  perhaps,  more  natural  beauty.  It  con- 
tains many  fine  trees.  The  lake  at  the  S.  side  is  60  acres  in  extent. 

slope  of  Look-Out  Hill  (185  ft.  above  the  sea)  is  a Monument  (erected 
in  1835)  in  memory  of  the  Maryland  troops  who  fell  ip  the  battle  of  Lung 


72  Route  3. 


BROOKLYN. 


Greenwood  Cem. 


Island  (p.  69),  wliich  is  also  commemorated  by  a tablet  in  Battle  Pass. 
Concerts  are  given  here  on  Sat.  and  Sun.  afternoons  in  summer.  In  other 
narts  of  the  park  are  a bust  of  John  Howard  Payne  (1792-1852),  author  of 
‘Home,  Sweet  Home',  statues  of  Lincoln  and  Gen.  G.  K.  Warren.,  and  several 
other  monuments.  — From  the  Plaza  the  Eastern  Parlcway  (PI.  E,  F,  4,  5), 
a fine  boulevard,  200  ft.  wide,  runs  E.  to  the  (2V2  M.)  part  of  Brooklyn 
known  as  East  New  York.  Fear  the  S.  entrance  begins  the  *Oceaw  Parkway 
(PI.  F,  E,  6,  7),  a similar  boulevard,  which  runs  all  the  way  to  (5  M.)  Coney 
Island  (p.  73)  and  forms  one  of  the  pleasantest  approaches  to  that  resort. 
It  is  flanked  on  either  side  by  a broad  cycle-path.  The  -Drive  from  Pro- 
spect Park  to  Fort  Hamilton  (p.  3^  41/2  Crescent  Club  House)  affords 
continuous  views  of  Few  York  Harbour. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  Flatbush  Ave.  (see  p.  71)  lies  the  Institute 
Park,  58  acres  in  extent  and  opened  to  the  public  in  1903. 

Finth  Avenue  (or  Prospect  Park  West,  PI.  E,  D,  4-6)  and  other  streets 
adjoining  Prospect  Park  contain  some  of  the  finest  residences  in  Brooklyn. 
Among  the  largest  and  handsomest  buildings  bordering  on  the  Park  are 
the  huge  Riding  and  Driving  Club  (near  the  Plaza  ^ PI.  E,  4)  and  the  Mon- 
tank  Club  (cor.  8th  Ave.*,  PI.  E,  4). 

The  Brooklyn  Institute  (PI.  F,  4),  founded  in  1824  and  re- 
chartered in  1890,  is  an  academy  of  arts  and  sciences  with  about 
7000  members.  It  contains  29  departments,  each  of  which  holds 
regular  meetings  and  courses  of  lectures.  A grant  of  12  acres  of  land 
in  Institute  ParTc  (see  above)  has  been  made  to  the  Institute,  which  has 
erected  on  it  two  sections  (1897  and  1903)  of  a large  Museum  build- 
ing, which  is  intended  ultimately  to  be  560  ft.  square.  This  build- 
ing (open  9-6,  Sun.  2-7,  also  on  Thurs.  & Frid.  7.30-9.45 ; adm. 
on  Mon.  & Tues.  25  c.,  children  10  c. ; at  other  times  free)  contains 
lecture-halls,  class-rooms,  laboratories,  art  galleries,  collections  of 
various  kinds,  and  a restaurant.  The  Children's  Museum  at  Bedford 
Park  is  open  free,  daily,  9-6  (Sun.  2-6). 

Following  Ninth  Avenue  towards  the  S.  from  the  S.W.  entrance, 
of  Prospect  Park,  we  soon  reach  (1/2  ^'l*)  entrance  of ‘^’Green- 

wood Cemetery  (PI.  B,  0,  D,  6,  7),  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  of 
the  dead  in  America,  rivalling  Prospect  Park  in  the  charms  of  its 
undulating  surface  and  extensive  views.  It  is  475  acres  in  extent. 
Carriages  take  passengers  round  the  chief  points  for  25  c.  each. 

The  principal  (F.)  entrance  is  in  Fifth  Ave.  (cor.  25th  St.  •,  PI.  C,  6).  The 
entrance  gateway  is  an  elaborate  structure  of  brown  stone,  142  ft  wide, 
with  bas-reliefs  and  a tower  100  ft.  high.  Plans  of  the  cemetery  may 
be  obtained  here  (10  c.),  showing  the  positions  of  the  graves.  Among  the 
monuments  of  special  interest,  either  from  their  subject  or  treatmerit, 
are  those  to  the  New  York  Volunteers  (Section  H),  Roger  Williams  (p.  85-, 
Sec.  130),  De  Witt  Clinton  (p.  197;  lOS),  Elias  P.  Howe  (the  inventor  of 
the  sewing  machine*,  H),  S.  F.  B.  Morse  (inventor  of  the  electric  tele- 
graph *,  25),  Henry  George  (1839-97),  the  founder  of  the  ‘Single  Tax'  move- 
ment (at  the  top  of  Ocean  Hill),  the  magnificent  mausoleum  of  John  W. 
McKay.  Horace  Greeley  (p.  36;  35),  Henry  Weird  Beecher  (p.  70;  140),  Lola 
Montez.^  John  Matthews  (64),  the  Pilots  (111),  the  Firemen  (2),  Peter  Cooper 
(p.  38 ; 101) , A.  S.  Scribner'  (160) , James  Gordon  Bennett  (107) , and  the 
Brooklyn  Theatre  Fire  Victims  (F).  The  expensive  monument  of  Char- 
lotte Canda  (92)  scarcely  justifies  its  reputation.  One  of  the  chief  attrac- 
tions of  Greenwood  is  the  beauty  of  the  blossoming  of  the  dog -wood 
(Cornus  Florida)  at  the  end  of  May  or  beginning  of  June. 

Among  other  points  of  more  or  less  interest  not  included  in  the 
above  rapid  survey  are  tbe  Romaw  Catholic  Cathedral  (cor.  Lafayette 


Coney  Island. 


LONG  ISLAND. 


3.  Route.  73 


and  Vanderbilt  Aves.;  PI.  E,  3);  the  Equestrian  Statue  of  General 
U.  S.  Grant,  by  W.  0.  Partridge,  erected  in  front  of  the  Union 
League  Club,  Bedford  Ave.,  in  1896;  the  Fire  Headquarters,  in  Jay 
St.  (PI.  D,  1,  2);  the  Armouries  of  the  14th  and  23rd  Regiments, 
in  Eighth  Ave.  (PI.  D,  5)  and  Bedford  Ave.  (PI.  F,  3);  the  Long  Is- 
land College  Hospital  and  St.  Peter  s Hospital  (PI.  B,  2),  in  Henry  St. ; 
St.  Marys  Hospital,  in  Buffalo  Ave.;  the  Brooklyn  Public  Library, 
Bedford  Ave.,  established  in  1896  (80,000  vols. ; comp.  p.  70);  the 
handsome  Roman  Catholic  church  of  St.  Augustine  (PI.  E,  4),  cor. 
Sixth  Ave.  and  Sterling  Place;  the  Reformed  Church,  cor.  Seventh 
Ave.  and  Carroll  St.  (PI.  E,  4);  the  Polytechnic  Institute  (PI.  C,  2), 
Livingston  St. ; the  Young  Women's  Christian  Association  (PI.  D,  3), 
cor.  Fiatbush  Ave.  and  Schermerhorn  St. ; and  the  Cemetery  of  the 
Evergreens  (beyond  PL  E,  3). 

Brooklyn  Forest  Park,  in  the  N.E.  part  of  the  borough,  is  540  acres 
in  area  and  deserves  a visit  for  its  fine  trees  and  beautiful  views.  It 
contains  a golf-course. 

To  the  >T.  of  Brooklyn,  and  separated  from  it  by  Newtown  Greek,  lies 
Long  Island  City  {Long  Island  City  Hotel,  R.  from  $ 1),  a place  of  no  par- 
ticular interest,  with  (1900)  48,272  inhabitants.  It  is  made  up  of  Hunter  s 
Point,  Astoria.,  and  Ravenswood , the  last  of  which  contains  pleasant  resi- 
dences and  extensive  nurseries.  In  Hunter’s  Point  (ferries  to  34th  St.  and 
James  Slip,  New  York)  is  the  terminus  of  the  Long  Island  Railroad  (trains 
for  all  points  in  Long  Island;  comp.  PI.  G,  5). 


Long  Island,  a narrow,  fish-shaped  island,  120  M.  long  and 
8-20  M.  wide,  extends  along  the  coast  of  New  York  and  Connecticut 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  to  a point  beyond  the  mouth  of  the 
Connecticut  River,  enclosing  between  itself  and  the  mainland  the 
comparatively  sheltered  waterway  of  Long  Island  Sound  (p.  88). 
Its  area  is  1680  sq.  M.  and  its  population  (1900)  1,325,000  (Incl. 
Brooklyn).  The  surface  is  generally  level.  A sandy  barrier,  at  some 
distance  from  the  main  shore,  extends  along  nearly  the  whole  S. 
coast  of  the  island,  broken  at  intervals  by  narrow  inlets;  and  here 
are  situated  Coney  Island  and  other  popular  seaside-resorts  of  the 
New  Yorkers.  The  N.  shore  is  hilly  and  well  wooded.  In  the  E. 
part  of  the  island  are  several  summer-resorts  of  a higher  class  than 
Coney  Island,  affording  good  sea-bathing,  sailing,  fishing,  shooting, 
and  golfing.  Some  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  the  state  are  on 
Long  Island,  and  the  historical  student  will  find  many  points  of 
interest.  Comp,  the  annual  guidebook  of  the  Long  Island  Railroad. 

Coney  Island , tbe  name  given  to  the  westernmost  section  of  the 
fiat  sand-bar  above  mentioned,  is  a strip  of  white  sand,  5 M.  long 
and  1/4-1  M.  wide,^  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a small  creek  and 
from  the  next  section  of  the  bar  (Rockaway  Beach)  by  a narrow  inlet 
opening  into  Jamaica  Bay.  The  island  is  divided  into  four  distinct  parts: 
West  End  or  Norton's  Point.,  West  Brighton,  Brighton  Beach,  and  Manhattan 
Beach.  Those  who  merely  wish  to  see  Coney  Island  for  a few  hours 
should  go  to  West  Brighton  and  return  via  Manhattan  Beach.  The  hotels 
at  the  latter  are  the  best  places  to  pass  the  night.  It  is  estimated  that  at 
least  10  million  visitors  resort  to  Coney  Island  every  season  (June-Sept.), 
and  hundreds  of  thousands  are  sometimes  there  on  the  same  day.  The 


74  Route  3. 


LONG  ISLAND. 


Long  Beach. 


prices  at  the  hotels  and  restaurants  are  highest  at  the  E.  end,  and  lowest 
at  the  W.  end  of  the  island^  but  at  the  dearer  houses  one  portion  is 
generally  ample  for  two  persons. 

West  End  or  Norton"' s Point  (Norton's  Hotel).,  the  old  original  Coney 
Island,  now  known  as  Sea  Gate.,  has  a number  of  pleasant  residences  and 
the  headquarters  of  the  Atlantic  Yacht  Club.  It  is  connected  with  Brigh- 
ton and  West  Brighton  by  electric  cars. 

West  Brighton,  about  the  middle  of  the  island,  is  the  most  crowded 
and  characteristic  part  of  it^  and  the  scene  here  on  a fine  Sunday  in 
summer  beggars  description.  The  beach  swarms  with  all  the  peripatetic 
shows  of  a popular  seaside-resort;  and  among  the  permanent  attractions 
are  two  iron  Piers  (U 00-1300  ft.  long),  Luna  Park  (fine  illuminations  at 
ni^ht),  and  a tall  '’Observatory'  ('  View).  West  Brighton  may  be  reached  from 
New  York  bv  steamer  from  Pier  1 (at  the  Battery)  or  from  W.  22nd  St. 
(return- fare  25  c.);  from  Brooklyn,  by  electric  car,  by  the  Brooklyn  Ele- 
vated R.  R.,  or  by  the  Ocean  Parkway  (p.  72).  It  is  connected  with  (3/4  M.) 
Brighton  Beach  by  a fine  drive  called  the  Concourse  and  by  an  elevated 
railroad  (5  c.). 

Brighton  Beach  (Hotel  Brighton)  consists  of  a huge  hotel,  a refresh- 
ment pavilion,  several  bathing- houses,  and  a theatre,  in  which  variety 
actors  perform  in  summer.  It  is  specially  frequented  by  the  Brooklynit^, 
who  reach  it  via  West  Brighton  (see  above)  or  by  direct  trolley  lines.  Brigh- 
ton Beach  is  connected  with  Manhattan  Beach  (see  below)  by  a small  Marine 
Railway  (5  c);  a barrier  prevents  walking  along  the  sands. 

Manhattan  Beach  (Manhattan  Beach  Hotels  on  the  European  plan,  a huge 
wooden  structure,  660  ft.  long;  Oi'iental^  Amer.  plan,  for  more  permanent 
guests)  is  the  most  fashionable  part  of  Coney  Island  and  the  most  com- 
fortable for  ordinary  tastes.  The  hotels  have  large  pleasure-grounds  and 
bathing  accommodations  for  many  hundreds  of  visitors  (adm.  to  amphi- 
theatre overlooking  the  Manhattan  bathing  enclosure,  10  c.),  and  music  is 
furnished  afternoon  and  evening  by  a good  band.  Light  opera  is  given 
in  summer.  The  beach  is  illuminated  by  electricity,  and  a display  of 
fireworks  is  given  almost  nightly.  Manhattan  Beach  may  be  reached  from 
New  York  by  ferry  to  Hunter’s  Point  (see  p.  17)  and  thence  by  train; 
from  the  Flatbush  Ave.  station  at  Brooklyn  (return-fare  20  c.) ; or  by 
electric  cars  from  Brooklyn  Bridge  and  from  Broadway  and  Fulton  St. 
Ferries. 

Rockaway  Beach  (numerous  hotels,  at  about  $ 2 a day),  the  next 
section  of  the  sand-bar,  is  a less  crowded  and  somewhat  cheaper  edition 
of  Conev  Island.  The  trip  to  it  from  New  York  by  steamer  (IV2  hr. ; re- 
turn-fare 50  c. ; see  advts.  in  daily  papers)  affords  an  excellent  survey  of 
New  York  Harbour  and  Coney  Island.  It  may  also  be  reached  by  railway 
from  Long  Island  City  (34th  St.  ferry;  comp.  p.  73).  A tubular  iron  pier 
extends  into  the  ocean  for  1200  ft.  — Farther  to  the  E.  are  the  summer- 
resorts  of  Arverne.,  Edgemere.,  and  Far  Rockaway. 

Long  Beach  (*Long  Beach  Hotel,  $ 4-5),  the  next  sand-strip,  is  one  of 
the  best  bathing-beaches  on  Long  Island , and  is  frec[uented  bj^  summer 
residents  rather  than  by  excursionists.  It  is  reached  by  railway  via  Long 
Island  Citv  (comp.  p.  73;  return-fare  80  c.).  Farther  to  E.  is  the 
Great  South  Beach.,  a curious  strip  of  sand  40  M.  long  and  V4-5  M.  wide. 
Fire  Island  (Surf  House) , at  its  W.  extremity , is  reached  by  ferry  from 
(8  M.)  Bay  Shore.  The  light  of  Fire  Island  Lighthouse  is  often  the  first 
obiect  in  America  seen  by  the  visitor  from  Europe,  and  the  signal-station 
here  announces  the  approach  of  the  steamers  4 hrs.  before  they  r^ch  thmr 
docks  (comp  p.  2).  The  Great  South  Bay.,  between  the  South  Beach  and  the 
main  coast,  is  a favourite  shooting  (wild-fowl)  and  fishing  ground,  and 
the  villages  along  its  shores  (on  the  S.  division  of  the  Long  Island  R.  R., 
see  p.  75)  are  much  frequented  in  summer  by  New  Yorkers.  ^ , 

The  other  points  on  Long  Island  are  all  reached  by  the  Long  Island 
Railway,  the  chief  divisions  of  which  are  given  below. 

From  Brooklyn  to  Greenport,  94  M.,  railway  in  3-3V2hrs.  (fares  $ 2.80). 
This  is  the  main  line;  the  trains  start  at  Flatbush  Ave.  Station  (p.  69), 


Patchogue. 


LONG  ISLAND. 


3.  Route.  75 


and  are  joined  at  .Tamaica  (see  below)  by  simultaneous  sections  from  Long 
Island  City  (p.  73).  — From  (7  M.)  Woodhaven  Junction  a branch-line  runs 
to  Rockaway  Beach  (p.  74).  — 8V2  M.  Jamaica.^  the  junction  of  the  Montauk 
Division  (see  below)  13  M.  Q/ueens  ^ the  station  for  Creedmoor  (p.  22). 
Beyond  (15  M.)  Floral  Park  we  quit  the  Borough  of  Queens  (Greater  New 
York).  — I8V2  M.  Mineola.,  the  junction  of  lines  running  N.  to  Glen  Cove 
(with  the  fine  mausoleum  of  Mr.  Charles  Pratt,  founder  of  the  Pratt  In- 
stitute, p.  71),  Bea  Cliff.,  and  Oyster  Bay  (with  the  home  of  President  Roosevelt:, 
good  yachting),  and  S.  to  Valley  Stream  (see  below).  Just  to  the  S.  lies  G-arden 
City  {Garden  City  Hotel.,  from  $ 5),  laid  out  by  A.  T.  Stewart  as  a model  sub- 
urban residence  for  New  Yorkers  and  containing  a handsome  Episcopal 
cathedral  built  by  him.  Adjacent  is  Hempstead.,  close  to  which  are  the 
headquarters  of  the  Meadowbrook  Hunt  Club.,  with  a good  golf-course.  — 
25  M.  Hicksville  is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  Setauket^  Cold  Spring 
(with  a large  and  important  biological  station).  Port  Jefferson,  Wading 
River,  and  other  resorts  on  the  N.  shore.  — 41  M.  Brentwood,  a pleasant 
resort  among  the  pines;  48  M.  Ronkonkoma,  station  for  the  lake  of  that  name 
(Lake  Front  Hotel);  65  M.  Manor,  junction  of  a short  line  to  Eastport 
(see  below);  73  M.  Riverhead.  We  now  skirt  the  N.  shore  of  Peconic  Bay. 

— 84  M.  Greenport  {Wyandank  Hotel,  $ 2-272),  a fishing-village  and  sea- 
bathing resort  near  the  E.  end  of  Long  Island.  — A steam-ferry  plies  hence 
to  Shelter  Island  {Prospect  Ho.,  Manhansett  Ho.,  $4;  Bay  View  Ho.,  $2i/2'3), 
in  Gardiner's  Bay,  much  frequented  by  New  Yorkers  in  summer.  The 
early  records  of  the  Quakers  here  are  full  of  interest. 

From  Brooklyn  to  Montauk,  116  M.,  railway  in  4 hrs.  (fares  $3.45). 
This  line,  which  gives  access  to  the  resorts  on  the  S.  shore  of  Long  Is- 
land, diverges  to  the  right  from  that  above  described  at  (81/2  M.)  Jamaica. 

— 1672  M.  Valley  Stream  is  the  junction  of  the  branch  to  Far  Rockaway 
(see  p.  74),  etc.  At  Woodsburgh,  on  this  branch,  is  a monument  to  Culluloo 
Telawaxana  (d.  1818),  the  last  of  the  Rockaway  Indians.  — 23  M.  Free- 
port  (Woodcleft  Inn;  Grove  Park  Hotel);  2872  M.  Massapequa  (The  Massa- 
pcqua).  — 37  M.  Babylon  {Argyle  Ho.,  $ 372-4;  Watson  Ho.,  $ 3-31/2),  a 
small  town  (2150  inhab.)  and  seaside  resort.  — 43  M.  /s%  (Orowoc  Hotel; 
Somerset  Ho.);  48  M.  Oakdale,  with  the  fine  estate  of  Mr.  W.  K.  Vander- 
bilt. — 52  M.  Bay  Shore  (Prospect  House),  another  fashionable  resort,  is 
connected  by  ferry  with  Fire  Island  (p.  74).  — 54  M.  Patchogue  {Roe's  Hotel, 
$3-4;  Clifton  Ho.,  from  $4;  Ocean  Avenue  Ho.,  $21/2-8),  with  3000  inhab., 
is  one  of  the  largest  summer  resorts  on  the  island.  Blue  Point,  the  S. 
extremity  of  Patchogue  Bay,  lends  its  name  to  the  well-known  oysters.  — 
58  M.  Bellport  (Goldthwaite  Ho.,  $2i/2-3;  Wyandotte,  Titus  Ho.,  $21/2) 
and  (661/2  M.)  Moriches  (Hotel  Brooklyn,  $ 21/2-8;  Beach  View,  $ 21/2;  Ocean 
Ho.,  $2)  aic  two  other  favourite  resorts.  — 70  M.  Eastport;  741/2  M.  West- 
hampfon.  — 851/2  M.  Shinnecock  Hills  is  well  known  as  the  seat  of  one  of 
the  leading  golf-clubs  in  the  United  States  (18  holes).  It  takes  its  name 
from  the  Shinnecock  Indians,  a remnant  of  whom  still  occupies  a reser- 
vation clos3  by.  — 891/2  M.  Southampton,  sometimes  called  the  ‘Newport 
of  Long  Island’’,  is  the  summer  home  of  many  wealthy  New  Yorkers.  — 
85^  M.  Bridgehampton  is  the  junction  of  a short  branch-line  to  Sag  Harbor 
(Nassau  Ho.,  Sea  View  Ho.,  American  Ho.,  $2).  once  one  of  the  chief 
whaling  ports  in  America.  — 101  M.  Easthampton  (Maidstone  Inn),  one  of 
the  quaintest  and  most  interesting  villages  in  the  state,  is  visited  annually 
by  many  artists,  who  paint  its  picturesque  windmills  and  other  sights.  It 
was  the  home  of  John  Howard  Payne  (p.  72),  and  the  Rev.  Dr.  Lyman  Beecher 
was  pastor  here  from  1788  to  1810.  — The  railway  ends  at  (116  M.)  Mon- 
tauk,  which  is  about  7 M.  from  the  bold  bluffs  of  Montauk  Point  (light- 
house), the  E.  extremity  of  the  island.  To  the  N.  is  Gardiner's  Bay  (see 
above),  with  Gardiner's  Island,  one  of  the  innumerable  claimants  to  being 
the  hiding-place  of  Capt.  Kidd's  treasures,  and  the  only  one  in  which 
treasure  was  really  found. 

The  only  other  point  on  Long  Island  that  need  be  mentioned  is  Flush 
ing,  with  about  18,000  inhab.,  which  lies  8 M.  to  the  E.  of  Long  Island  City 
railway  and  trolley)  and  contains  the  residences  of  many  New  Yorkers. 


76 


4.  From  New  York  to  Boston, 

a.  Vi&  New  Haven,  Hartford,  and  Springfield. 

234  M.  Railway  {New  Yorlc  ^ New  Haven ^ and  Hartford  Railroad  to 
Springfield^  Boston  and  Albany  Railroad  thence  to  Boston)  in  hrs. 

(fare  $5,  sleeping-berth  S IVz-^,  seat  in  drawing-room  car  $ 1);  four  express 
trains  daily,  including  one  at  night  (11  p.m.,  arriving  at  6.40  a.m.).  Din- 
ing-car on  the  afternoon  train  (D.  $ 1)  and  buffet-cars  on  other  day-trains. 

Tile  train  starts  from  the  Orand  Central  Station  (p.  7),  runs 
tbrough  the  long  tunnels  under  Park  Avenue  (see  p.  48),  crosses 
the  Harlem  Eiver^  and  traverses  the  somewhat  unkempt  environs  of 
New  York,  We  have  a glimpse  of  Columbia  University  (p.  56)  to 
the  left.  To  the  right,  at  (9  M.)  Fordham^  are  the  large  buildings 
of  the  Jesuit  St.  Johns  College  and  the  cottage  occupied  by 
E.  A.  Poe  in  1844-49.  A little  farther  on,  also  to  the  right,  are 
the  Botanical  Gardens  (p.  66),  with  their  palm»house  and  mu- 
seum. To  the  left  lies  Woodlawn  Cemetery  (with  the  large  mau- 
soleum of  Jay  Gould),  and  beyond  (12  M.)  Woodlawn  our  line 
diverges  to  the  right  from  the  N.  Y.  0.  R.  R.  and  skirts  Long  Island 
Sound  (p.  88),  which,  however,  does  not  become  visible  for  some 
time.  — 1672  M.  New  Rochelle,  founded  by  Huguenot  refugees  in 
1686.  Thomas  Paine  (1737-1809)  had  a farm  here,  granted  to  him 
by  New  York  State,  and  is  commemorated  by  a monument.  Leland 
Castle,  on  Castle  Hill,  erected  in  1857  and  elaborately  decorated 
inside  with  frescoes  and  coloured  marbles,  is  now  used  as  a semin- 
ary by  Ursiiline  nuns.  New  Rochelle  is  also  connected  with  New 
York  by  the  ‘Harlem  River  Branch’  of  the  N.  Y.,  N.  H.  & H.  R.  R.  — 
1872  ^1-  Larchrnont,  a pretty  seaside-resort  and  yachting  station.  — 
24  M.  Rye^  the  station  for  (2  M.)  Rye  Beach  (Oxford,  $ 21/2-4),  a 
summer-resort  on  the  Sound.  — Beyond  (2572  M.)  Port  Chester  we 
cross  the  Byram  River  and  enter  New  England.  — 28  M.  Green- 
wich (Acni  Ho.,  $ 5-7 ; Green  Court  Inn,  near  the  railway,  $ 3 ; Silleck 
House,  $272-4;  Edgewood  Inn,  I72  from  the  station,  $5-7; 
Held  House,  $ 3,  at  Indian  Harbor,  1 M.  to  the  S.E.),  the  first  station 
in  Connecticut  (pron.  Conneticut;  the  ‘Nutmeg  State’),  is  a small 
town  with  12,271  inhab.,  pleasantly  situated  on  heights  overlooking 
Long  Island  Sound.  It  was  settled  in  1640  and  contains  the  villas 
of  many  New  Yorkers. 

3372  M.  Stamford  {^Arlington,  $2-3;  Shippan  Point  Ho.,  finely 
situated  on  Shippan  Point,  1^/4  M.  to  the  S.,  $2-3),  with  15,997 
inhab.,  is  a town  of  the  same  age  as  Greenwich  and  is  also  a 
favourite  residence  and  summer- resort  of  New  York  merchants 
(steamer  to  New  York  35c.).  — 4172^^*  South  Norwalk  (Mahackemo, 
$2-272)  is  the  station  for  (I72  ; tramway)  Norwalk  (Norwalk 

House,  $2;  pop.  6125),  another  summer-resort,  and  the  junction 
of  a branch-line  to  Danbury  (p.  173).  — 51  M.  Fairfield  has  a good 
bathing-beach. 

. 56  m.  Bridgeport  (^Atlantic  House,  $272-6;  Windsor,  $2),  a 


IVagner  «.Del)es’G«og!^Estsai‘Leipzi| 


NEW  HAVEN. 


4.  Route.  77 


flourisliing  city  of  (1900)  70,996  inhat).,  lies  on  an  inlet  of  tlie 
Sound,  at  tlie  mouth  of  the  Pequonnoch  River.  It  possesses  im- 
portant manufactures  of  sewing-machines  (Wheeler  & Wilson, 
Howe),  small -arms,  ammunition,  carriages,  and  other  articles 
(total  value  in  1900,  $ 38,000,000).  The  winter-quarters  of  Barnum 
& Bailey’s  Circus  are  at  Bridgeport.  Golden  Hill,  above  the  town, 
with  numerous  villas,  affords  good  views  5 SiUd.  Seaside  Park  contains 
a Soldiers’  & Sailors’  Monument  and  statues  of  Elias  Howe  and  P.  T. 
Barnum.  Bridgeport  is  the  junction  of  the  Berkshire  Division 
of  the  N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H.  R.  R.  (R.  18).  Steamers  daily  to  New 
York  (50  c.).  — Farther  on  the  train  crosses  salt-marshes  and 
reaches  — 


73  M.  New  Haven.  — Hotels.  New  Haven  House  (PI.  a;  C,  2),  $ 4; 
ToxNtine  (PL  b;  H,  2),  R.  from  $ 1;  Garde  (PL  c •,  D,  3),  near  tbe  station! 
commercial,  $ 2-85  Davenport  (PL  d-,  D,  2),  $ 2-2V2.  — Rail.  Restaurant.  — 
Cab  00  c.  per  drive,  2 pers.  35  c.  each.  — Post  Office  (PL  D,  2),  Church  St. 

New  Haven,  the  largest  city  of  Connecticut  and  seat  of  Yale 
University,  is  a well-built  city,  situated  at  the  head  of  a bay  of 
(4  M.)  Long  Island  Sound  and  surrounded  by  hills.  It  is  known 
as  the  ‘City  of  Elms’,  from  the  fine  trees  which  shade  its  streets, 
and  carries  on  a considerable  trade  and  numerous  manufactures 
(value  in  1900,  $41,000,000).  The  town  was  founded  in  1638.  In 
1800  it  had  4049  inhab.,  and  in  1900  it  had  108,027. 

From  the  large  Vnion  Depot  (PI.  D,  4),  which  adjoins  the 
Harbour,  Meadow  Street  (electric  tramway)  leads  to  the  N.  to 
(V2  M.)  the  ^Public  Green  (PI.  D,  1,  2),  on  which  are  the  City 
Hall,  three  Churches,  the  new  National  Bank  (PI.  2),  and  the  Free 
Public  Library  (PI.  3).  At  the  back  of  Centre  Church  is  a monu- 
ment to  John  Dixwell,  the  regicide.  At  the  S.W.  corner  of  the 
Green  is  the  Franklin  Elm  (PI.  1),  planted  in  1790. 

In  College  St.,  which  skirts  the  W.  side  of  the  Green,  are  most 
of  the  substantial  buildings  of  *Yale  University  (PI.  C,  D,  1,  2), 
which  is  second  in  dignity  and  importance  to  Harvard  alone  among 
the  universities  of  America.  Besides  the  Academic  Department,  it 
has  schools  of  Science,  Theology,  Medicine,  Law,  Forestry,  Music, 
and  Fine  Arts,  and  also  a Graduate  School. 

Yale  University  (325  instructors  and  3000  students)  was  founded  at 
Kilhngwortb  in  1700  and  established  at  New  Haven  in  1717.  It  was  named 
in  honour  ol  EUMi  Yale  (1648-1721),  a native  of  New  Haven,  who  became 
Governor  of  Madras  and  of  the  East  India  Co.  He  presented  it  with  400L 
Perh^s  the  most  eminent  of  its  Presidents  were  Timothy  Dwight  (1795-1817) 
(1846-71),  and  the  list  of  its  alumni  includes 
Ell  Whitney  (p.  439),  Sam.  F.  B.  Morse,  Jonathan  Edwards,  Noah  Web- 
T 1!’  Winthrop  (author  of  ‘Cecil  Dreeme’) , Chancellor  Kent, 

Horace »Bushnell,  James  D.  Dana,  Ben.  Silliman,  N.  P. 
Willis,  etc.  ’ 

From  the  Public  Green  we  enter  the  university  ‘campus’  or  quadrangle 
by  an  imposing  tower-gateway  known  as  Phelps  Hall,  where  a guide  may 
be  secured.^  Among  the  buildings  in  the  campus  are  the  Nc/iooKadm. 

^),  containing  a good  collection  of  Italian,  American  (historical  paintings 
Dj  irumbuJl,  etc.),  and  other  paintings  and  sculptures  5 South  Middle  College, 


78  Route  4, 


NEW  HAVEN. 


From  New  York. 


the  oldest  Yale  building  (1750);  Osborn  Hall;  Battell  Chapel;  Vanderbilt 
Hall'  Alumni  Hall;  Dwight  Hall;  and  the  College  Library^  containing  over 
360  doO  vols.,  including  those  left  by  Bp.  Berkeley  aud  MS.  works  of 
Jonathan  Edwards.  The  campus  also  contains  statues  of  the  Rev.  Abraham 
'pierson  first  Rector  of  Yale  (1645-lTOS),  President  Woolsey  (1801-89),  and 
Prof.  Silliman  (1779-1864).  The  other  chief  buildings  of  the  University 
include  the  ^Peabody  Museum  of  Natural  History  (PI.  C,  1),  at  the  cor.  of 
Elm  and  Hio^h  Sts.,  in  which  the  mineralogical  collections  are  especially 
fine:  the  Sheffield  Scientific  School  (PI.  D,  1),  consisting  of  half-a-dozen 
admirably  equipped  buildings  between  Prospect  St.  and  Hillhouse  Ave. ; 
the  Gymnasium  (PI.  C,  1),  in  Elm  St. ; the  Divinity  School  (PI.  U 1),  ^ the 
corner  of  Elm  & College  Sts. ; the  Observatory  (Prospect  St. ; beyond  PI-  p,  1) 
the  Chemical  and  Physical  Laboratories  (PI.  C,  1;  Librarv  St.);  the  Medwal 
School  (P\.  C,  2:  York  St.);  the  Law  School  (PI.  D,  2);  the  Vanderbilt 
Dormitory  (PI.  D,  1);  Woodbridge  Hall  (administrative  building);  University 
Hall  (dining  hall);  ^Woolsey  Hall  (with  large  organ);  and  Memorial  Hall, 
these  three  at  the  cor.  of  Grove  and  College  Sts.  (PI.  U, 
of  the  Graduates  Club  (PI.  D,  1),  the  Urdversiiy  Club  (PI.  C,  i),  and  the 
Historical  Society  (PI.  D,  1)  may  also  be  mentioned.  University  dramatic 
performances  are  given  in  the  Hyperion  Theatre  (PI.  C,  2). 

The  *0ld  Burying  Ground  (PI.  D,  1),  in  Grove  St.,  at  the  head 
of  High  St.,  a little  to  the  right  of  the  Green,  contains  the  graves 
of  Sam.  Morse  (1791-1872),  Noah  Webster  (1758-1843),  President 
Timothy  Dwight  (1752-1817),  Theodore  Winthrop  (1828-61),  and 
Eli  Whitney  (1765-1825).  — To  the  N.  from  Grove  St.  runs  Hill- 
house  Avenue  (PI.  P,  1),  the  most  beautiful  of  the  elm-shaded 
streets  of  New  Haven.  It  ends  at  what  was  once  Sachem's  Wood. 

Environs.  East  and  West  Rocks  are  two  masses  of  trap-rock  on  the 
plain  near  the  city.  The  East  Rock  (360  ft.),  2 M.  from  the  Green  (tram- 
way via  State  St.)  has  been  made  a public  park  and  is  surmounted  by  a war- 
monument  (restaurant;  *View).  The  West  Rock  (400  ft ),  2y4  M.  to  the  N.W. 
of  the  Green  (tramway  through  Chapel  St.),  ascended  with  more  difficulty, 
is  also  a good  point  of  view.  Golfe  and  Whalley,  two  of  the  regicides, 
lav  concealed  here  in  the  Judge's  Cave.  At  Edgewood,  near  the  foot  ot  the 
West  Rock,  is  the  home  of  Donald  G.  Mitchell  (Ik  Marvel). 

ViocTs.  (Sea-View  Ho.,  $3)  is  a bold  promontory , commanding  a view  ot 
Long  Island  Sound  (p.  88;  tramway  from  the  Green).  — Other  favourite 
resorts  (tri«mway)  are  Morris  Cove  and  (3/4  hr.)  Momauguin  (sea-bathing 
and  shore-dinners).  — A Steamer  plies  twice  daily  from  New  Haven  to 
New  York  in  5 hrs.  ($  1,  return-fare  $ 1.50,  stateroom  § 1). 

From  New  Haven  to  Middletown,  24  M.,  railway  in  3/4- 1 hr.  (lare 
60  c ) — This  line  runs  to  the  E.  of  the  main  route  described  below. 

24 M.  Middletown  (McDonough,  $ 2-3),  the  junction  of  the  line  from  hay- 
brook  to  Hartford,  is  a busy  town  of  95h9  inhab.,  on  the 
It  is  the  seat  of  Wesleyan  University,  founded  in  1831  (322  students;  ^ 
from  the  chapel-tower;  good  library,  with  63,000  vols.  and  collections  of 
natural  history),  the  Berkley  Divinity  School  (Episcopal),  and  the  State 

^”^**Middletow’n  is  also  connected  by  railway  with  Hartford  (p.  79)  and 
Willimanlic  (p.  87;  fare  75  c.). 

Beyond  New  Haven  the  train  turns  to  the  left  and  runs  inland 
(N.).  To  the  left  we  obtain  a good  view  of  the  East  and  West  Rocks 
(see  above).  The  line  follows  the  Owinnipiac  valley.  Meriden 

(Winthrop,  $ 21/2-4),  a town  of  28,695  inhah.,  with  important  manu- 
factures of  silver  ware  (Britannia  Co.),  cutlery,  tinware,  «n^^r 
goods.  — 99  M.  Berlin,  another  tinware-making  place.  At  (195  M.) 
Newington  we  cross  the  Hartford  and  Newhurg  branch  (see  p.  80). 


to  Boston. 


HARTFORD. 


4^  Route.  79 


110  M,  Hartford  Howse,  $8-41/25  Hartford,  $21/2*4, 

R.  from  $1;  Capitol,  $2-21/2;  *Heublem,  R.  from  $ 1;  New  Dom, 
$2-21/2;  Rail.  Restaurant ; cab  75  c.  for  l-2pers.  to  any  point  in  the 
city},  the  capital  of  Connecticut,  is  finely  situated  on  the  navigable 
Connecticut  River,  at  its  confluence  with  the  Park  River,  50  M.  from 
Long  Island  Sound.  It  contains  extensive  manufactories  of  steam- 
engines,  small-arms  (Colt’s  Factory),  bicycles  and  automobiles  (Pope 
Manufacturing  Co.),  etc.,  and  is  noted  for  its  powerful  insurance 
companies  (assets  $ 180,000,000)  and  for  one  of  the  largest  savings 
banks  in  the  United  States  (deposits  at  beginning  of  1904  upwards 
of  $ 25,000,000).  A Dutch  fort  was  established  here  in  1633,  and 
the  town  was  founded  three  years  later.  Its  population  is  (1900) 
79,850.  — The  Union  Depot  is  near  the  centre  of  the  town.  To  the 

S. W.  of  it,  beyond  the  Park  River,  lies  *Bushnell  Park,  containing 
the  handsome  white  marble  ^Capitol,  a conspicuous  object  in  most 
views  of  the  town.  The  Senate  Chamber  contains  a good  portrait  of 
Washington,  by  Stuart.  In  the  E.  wing  of  the  groundfloor  is  a statue 
of  Nathan  Hale  (p.  35),  and  in  the  W.  wing  are  the  tombstone 
of  Gen.  Putnam  (p.  123)  and  a statue  of  Governor  Buckingham 
(1858-66).  The  Statue  of  Gen.  Putnam,  in  the  grounds,  is  by 
J.  Q.  A.  Ward.  Fine  view  from  the  Dome  (250  ft.).  The  gateway 
to  the  park,  erected  as  a Soldiers'  Memorial,  deserves  attention. 

— Following  Capitol  Avenue  to  the  E.  and  then  turning  to  the  left, 
along  Main  Street,  we  reach  (right)  the  Wadsworth  Athen^um, 
containing  a gallery  of  libraries  with  140,000  vols.,  and  the  col- 
lections of  the  Historical  Society  (9-4).  Adjacent  are  the  Etna  Life 
Insurance  Building  and  the  dignified  Etna  Fire  Insurance  Building 
(1904),  and  a little  farther  on  is  the  Post  Office.  Opposite  is  the 
Connecticut  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Co.  By  continuing  to  follow  Main 
St.  in  the  same  direction,  we  reach  (20  min.)  the  State  Arsenal. 

Near  the  State  House  are  the  High  School,  the  Hartford  Orphan 
Asylum,  and  the  Hartford  Theological  Institute.  — About  1 M.  to 
the  S.  is  Trinity  College,  an  E.E.  building  by  Burges  of  London. 

— The  Colt  Firearms  Factory  is  in  the  S.E.  part  of  the  city,  and 
near  it  is  the  handsome  * Church  of  the  Good  Shepherd,  erected  in 
memory  of  Col.  Colt,  inventor  of  the  revolver,  by  his  wife. 

A tablet  at  the  corner  of  Charter  Oak  Place  marks  the  site  of 
the  ‘Charter  Oak’,  where  in  1687  a colonial  gentleman  hid  the  charter 
of  Connecticut  (now  in  the  Capitol),  to  save  it  from  the  clutches  of 
Sir  Edmund  Andros  (p.  29).  Charter  Oak  Park  is  famous  for  its 
trotting  races.  ■ — Among  other  large  buildings  are  the  Retreat  for 
the  Insane,  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  the  Old  Folks  Home,  the 
City  Hospital,  and  ^St.  Joseph's  R.  C.  Cathedral.  The  last  is  in 
Farmington  Avenue,  which,  with  its  continuation  Asylum  Street, 
contains  many  fine  private  residences. 

Among  past  and  present  residents  of  Hartford  are  Mr.  S.  L.  Clemens 
(Mark  Twain’-,  351  Farmington  Ave.),  Mr.  Charles  Dudley  Warner  (37  For- 


SPRINGFIELD. 


From  New  York 


80  Route  4, 


est  St.),  Mr.  William  Gillette,  the  actor  (just  beyond  Mr.  Warner’s  house), 
Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe  (d.  1826),  and  Mrs.  Sigourney  (d.  I860).  — Many 
pleasant  Drives  may  be  taken  in  the  vicinity  {Talcoti  Mt.,  Tumbledown 
Brook,  the  new  Kenney  Park,  perhaps  the  finest  wild  park  in  New  Eng- 
land etc.).  — Steamers  ply  daily  to  New  York  ($  13/4),  Sag  Harbor  (p.  70),  etc. 
— An  Electric  Tramway  connects  Hartford  with  (17  M.)  Rockville  (fare  20  c.). 

Another  line  runs  to  (9  M.)  Farmington  (fare  15  c.),  a quaint  old 

village  with  a country-club  and  a famous  school  for  girls,  established 
by  Miss  Porter  about  1845. 


From  Hartford  to  Fishkill  Landing,  111  M.,  N.  Y.,  N.  H.,  & H.  Rail- 
road in  41/2  hrs.  — 5 M.  Newington  (p.  78).  — 9 M.  New  Britain  (Euswin, 
$ 21/2-3),  the  birthplace  of  Elihu  Burritt  (1810-79),  the  ‘Learned  Blacksmith  , 
a busy  town  with  25,998  inhab.,  engaged  in  making  locks,  jewellery,  and 
hardware.  A monument  to  Burritt,  who  knew  50  languages  and  was  Ji^tive 
in  many  good  ca.uses,  is  to  be  erected  here.  — 14  M.  Plainville.  do  M. 
Waterbury  {Waterbury,  $2-21/2*,  Earl,  Savoy,  Arlington,  $2^  large  new 
hotel  to  be  opened  in  1905),  a prosperous  manufacturing  town  with  45,»Dd 
inhab.  and  the  junction  of  the  Naugatuck  E.  B.,  is  well  known  for  its 
watches,  of  which  about  600,000  are  turned  out  here  yearly  by  the  New 
England  Watch  Co.  — 57  M.  Hawleyville;  63  M.  Danbury  (p.  1<3);  7d  M. 
Brewster  (p.  68).  The  line  now  turns  to  the  N.  98  M.  Hopewell  Junction; 
104  M.  Fishkill.  — 111  M.  Fishkill  Landing,  see  p.  192. 


Beyond  Hartford  (Capitol  conspicuous  to  tlie  right)  the  train 
continues  to  follow  the  same  general  direction  (N.N.E.),  crossing 
the  Connecticut  River.  (A  fine  new  bridge  is  now  being  constructed, 
just  below  the  railway-bridge,  at  a cost  of  $ 2,000,000.)  ^ A good 
deal  ofitobacco  is  grown  in  this  part  of  the  valley.  Between  (127  M.) 
Thompsonville  and  (132  M.)  Longmeadow  we  enter  Massachusetts 
(the  ‘Bay  State’). 


136  M.  Springfield  $3-4,  R.from  $ 1;  Cooley\% 

$21/2;  Worthy,  R.  from  $ 1 ; New  Haynes,  $21/2;  Railwciy  Restau- 
rant), a pretty  little  city  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  dating 
from  1636,  carries  on  a great  variety  of  industries,  the  most  im- 
portant of  which  is  the  manufacture  of  small-arms.  Pop.  (1900) 
62,059.  The  United  States  Ahmoury,  in  a park  to  the  E.  of  the 
station  (reached  via  State  St.),  employs  about  1300  hands  and 
can  turn  out  120,000  Springfield  rifles  annually  (apply  at  office  for 
a pass^  no  adm.  on  Sun.).  Yiew  from  tower.  The  Arsenal  contains 
225,000  stand  of  arms.  During  the  Civil  War  800,000  guns  were 
made  here,  and  during  the  war  of  1898  the  ordinary  force  and  out- 
put of  the  Armoury  were  quadrupled.  The  *Art  Museum  (open  free 
daily,  1-5  in  winter,  2-6  in  summer),  a fine  Renaissance  building, 
contains  the  George  W.  Y.  Smith  Collection  of  European  and  Oriental 
Art  (ceramics,  bronzes,  rugs,  carved  ivories,  lacquer  - work,  lace, 
armour,  etc.)  and  the  Horace  Smith  Hall  of  Sculpture.  The  Science 
Museum  (open  as  above)  contains  a scientific  library  and  collections 
of  natural  history.  Among  the  principal  buildings  are  ihe*Church 
of  the  Unity,  Chvist  Church,  the  Memorial  Church  (N.  end  of  city), 
the*  Court  House,  the*  Railway  Station  (these  two  designed  by  H.  H. 
Richardson),  thevC%  Hall,  and  the  City  Library  (125,000  yols.).  A 
visit  may  also  be  paid  to  *Forest  Park  (S. ; ponds  covered  with  lotus- 


to  Boston. 


WORCESTER. 


4.  Route.  81 


plants),  Stearns  Park  (adjoining  the  Art  Museum),  Merrick  Park 
(adjoining  the  Public  Library  and.  containing  the  ^Puritan,  a statue 
by  St.  Gaudens),  and.  the  two  Cemeteries.  Good,  views  are  obtained 
from  Crescent  Hill  Road  (S.)  and  from  the  bridges.  A new  boulevard 
or  drive  has  been  constructed  along  the  river- front.  — The  ‘Sprinff- 
fleld  Republican’  is  one  of  the  best  newspapers  in  the  country. 

At  Springfield  our  train  joins  the  Boston  and  Albany  R.R  fp  1711 
and  turns  to  the  E.  (right).  Little  of  interest  is  passed  before  Wor- 
cester. 151 M.  Palmer  Restaurant),  a junction  of  various  lines. 

190  M.  Worcester  (Rai/  $21/2*4;  Standish,  $21/9-5: 

Commonwealth,  Mw  Park;  Rail.  Restaurant ; cab  50  c 

for  each  pers.,  tramways  5 c.),  the  second  city  of  Massachusetts  and 
heart  of  the  Commonwealth’,  with  (1900)  118,420  inhab  occu- 
pies a pleasant  hill-girt  site  near  the  Blackstone  River,  ’it  was 
founded  in  1674.  Its  manufactures  are  of  a most  heterogeneous 
character,  the  staples  being  iron,  copper,  and  steel  wire,  machinery 
envelopes,  boots  and  shoes,  looms,  carpets,  elevators,  organs,  and 
10  670  000«7  “annfactured  products  in  1900,  $ 53,349,000  or 

*1,  Depot  hy  H.  H.  Richardson,  we  proceed  to 

the  W.  through  Front  St.  to  (5  min.)  the  Common,  which  contains 
a War  Monument  and  a Memorial  of  Col.  Timothy  Bigelow. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  Common  rises  the  City  Hall,  an  impos- 
ing building  of  white  marble,  completed  in  1898.  This  faces  Main 
Stkeet,  which  we  at  first  foliow  towards  the  right,  to  Lincoln 
Square  Just  on  this  side  of  the  square,  to  the  left,  stand  the 
Court  Home  and  the  building  of  the  *Ameeican  Antiquarian 
Society  (open  9-5,  except  Sat.  afternoon). 

in  I8I2' bv"lstiah"TLm»?®  ' America,  was  founded 

Thomas  and  possesses  a valuable  library  of  115  000  vols 
subjects)  and  an  interesting  collection  Trl?ics 
5000  vofr  » T?®  collection  of  newspapers,  comprising  over 

S d^y!'’  ® down  to  "4  pre- 

In  Lincoln  Sq.  stands  the  old  Salisbury  House,  an  interesting 
^ Colonial  mansion.  In  Salisbury  St.  is  the  Worcester 
Art  Museum  erected  at  a cost  of  $ 100,000,  the  gift  of  Stephen 
Salisbury,  and  opened  in  1898  (2-6 ; adm.  25  c. , free  on  Sat.  & Sun. ; 

pnii  4-*^^  its  permanent  contents  are  a complete 

collection  of  casts,  some  valuable  paintings  and  engravings,  and 

ancroit  Japanese  Collection.  Loan  Exhibitions  are  held  from 
time  to  time. 

leadfto^ac  C'W  and  the  Society  of  Antiquity, 

processes)  The  old  nnvtiuv  American  Steel  & Wire  Co.  (interesting 

the  Sorian’^  George  Bancroft  (1800-1891), 

site  is  marked  bf  a IrS;!  ^ the  square,  and  its 

ed  by  a tablet.  About  1/4  M.  farther  on  is  Bancroft  Hill  (720  ft.) 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  3 


82  Route  d. 


WELLESLEY. 


From  New  Yorh 


nnf  as  a public  park.  - Belmont  St.  leads  to  the  E , between  MU- 
Itone  Hill  and  Ll I Fond,  to  (IV2M.)  the  enormous  'State  Insane  Hospital 
(1500  patients-,  *View). 

Following  Main  St.  to  the  left  (S.)  from  the  Common,  we  pass 
the  imposing  Post  Office  (left)  and  several  churches  and  reach 
ri^/9  M.  • to  the  right)  the  Clark  University,  opened  in  looL  ihe 
neyt  Library  Building  was  added  in  1904.  — Main  St.  ends  1/2  M. 

farther  on  at  Webster  Square.  ^ r • .#  ;i 

From  this  point  Electric  Tramways  run  to  Southhridge,  to  Leicester,^  ^ ^ 

(12  M.)  ;S(pmcer  (Massasoit,  $21/2),  connecting  with  ^ ^ 

(p^  80).  — A pleasant  walk  of  2 M.  may  be  taken  round  Coe  s Fond,  to  the 

W.  of  Webster  Sq. 

Among  other  huildings  of  interest  are  the  Free  Pahlic  Library 
r40  000  vols.),  Elm  St.;  the  High  Schools;  the  Natural  Historical 
Society  s Museum , Harvard  St.  (9-5) ; All  Saints  Church  Irving 
St.  • the  Polytechnic  Institute;  the  Oread  Institute  (for  girls);  Wor- 
cester Academy,  Providence  St.;  the  Highland  Military  Academy; 
and  the  College  of  the  Holy  Cross  (R.  C.),  commandingly  situated 
on  ML  St.  James  (690  ft.),  to  the  S.  of  the  town 

Among  the  pleasantest  excursions  from  Worcester  is  that  to  Lake 
auinsigamond  (Island  Ho.),  a popular  resort  2 M.  to  the  E.,  reached  by 
eSric  r“lway  - Not  far  from  the  N.  end  of  this  lake  lies  Shrewsbury, 
f pleasant  little  town  with  1626  inhab.  and  the  fine  Jubal  Howe  Memorial 
Library,  erected  in  1903. 

Beyond  Worcester  the  train  makes  an  abrupt  turn  to  the  right 
rS.)  and  passes  Lake  Quinsigamond  (left;  comp,  above).  — 

SoRth  Framingham  (Old  Colony  Ho.,  Winthrop,  Kendall,  ^ 

pop.  11,000),  a manufacturing  place  and  junction  of  several  rail- 

wavs  w\th  a large  Reformatory  for  Women.  . 

^The  railway  to  (29  M.)  Lowell  passes  (T  M.)  Sud^y , near  which  is 
an  old  Colonial  tavern,  the  original  of  Longfellow  s Wayside  Inn  . 

Cochituate  Lake,  to  the  left,  near  (217  M.)  Natick  (9488  inhah.), 
is  one  of  the  sources  of  Boston’s  ’«’ater-ShPPly-[^>'om  ttas  point 
on,  comp,  the  Map  at  p.  116.]  To  the  right  of  (220  M.)  Wellesley 
(Elm  Park  Hotel,  $ 2-21/2)  the  buildings  of  Wellesley  College, 
one  of  the  best- known  colleges  for  women  in  tjie  United  States, 
founded  in  1875  and  situated  in  a beautiful  park  (1000  students).  — 
224  M . Auburndale  (W  oodland  Park  Hotel,  $ 3-5) ; 226  M.  West  New- 
ton- 227  M Newtonville:  228  M.  Newton,  all  included  in  the  wealthy 
‘sZJbln  ciS  of  Newtok  (33,687  inhab.  in  1900).  f « M.  Hrigton 

with  a large  cattle-market  and  slaughter-houses  To  the  left  is  the 
CharUs  River.  The  train  then  skirts  the  N.  end  of  Brookline  (p-  HO, 
stat.  Cottage  Farm),  affording  a good  view  peft)  of 
River,  Cambridge  (p.  112),  Boston  (with  the  gilded  dome  of  the  St^e 
House),  and  Charlestown  Heights  (p.  116).  In  entering  Boston  we 
pass  over  the  ‘Back  Bay’  (p.  110),  with  The  Eens  to  the  right.  233  M. 

Back  Bay  Station  (p.  94). 

234  M.  Boston  (South  Union  Station),  see  K.  0. 


to  Boston. 


NEW  LONDON. 


4.  Route.  83 


b.  Vi^  Providence  and  the  Shore  Line. 


232  M.  N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H.  Railroad  in  5-7  hrs.  (fares,  etc.,  as  above) 
The  best  trains  by  this  route  are  the  ‘Bay  State  Limited’  (10  a m ) and 
the  ‘Knickerbocker  Limited’  (1  p.m.).  — Vestibuled  trains  with  through- 
carnages  run  on  this  route  between  Boston  and  Washington  in  13-14  hrs 
the  train  being  carried  between  Harlem  River  and  Jersey  City  (see  d 67) 
by  steamboat  (D.  on  steamer  $ 1).  ^ j ^ j 


From  New  York  to  (73  M.)  New  Haven^  see  p.  77.  The  ‘Shore 
Line  Division’  of  the  N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H.  R.  R.  crosses  the  Quinnipiac 
and  continues  to  follow  the  shore  of  Long  Island  Sound^  of  which 
it  affords  fine  views.  Beyond  (77  M.)  Fair  Haven  we  pass  through 
cuttings  and  two  tunnels.  82  M.  Branford  (Montowese,  Branford 
Point  House , Double  Beach  House , and  several  other  summer- 
hotels,  $ 21/2-3),  with  the  handsome  Branford  Library,  and  (85  M.) 
Stony  Crecfc  (Money  Island  Ho.,  Brainard  Ho.,  $ li^-^)  are  popular 
bathing  resorts.  —89  M.  Guilford  (Guilford  Point  Ho.,  Halleck, 
$2)  was  the  birthplace  of  the  poet  Fitz- Greene  Halleck  (1790- 
1867).  A house  here,  dating  from  1635,  is  one  of  the  oldest  build- 
ings in  New  England.  — At  (105  M.)  Saybrook  (Coulter  Ho.,  $ 2), 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Connecticut  River,  we  intersect  the  Conn. 
Valley  Division,  which  begins  at  Fenwick  (Fenwick  Hall,  $4), 
2 M.  to  the  S.,  and  runs  to  Middletown,  etc.  (see  p.  78).  Beyond 
Saybrook  we  cross  the  wide  Connecticut. 


124  M.  New  London  (Crocfccr  House,  Mohican,  $21/2-31/2;  ^ort 
Griswold  Ho.,  across  the  river,  $ 31/2-41/2),  a small  city  on  the  right 
hank  of  the  Thames,  with  17,548  inhab.  and  an  excellent  harbour, 
defended  by  Fort  Trumbull  (seen  from  the  station)  and  Fort  Gris- 
wold (on  the  other  side  of  the  river).  There  is  a Soldiers'  ^ Sailors' 
Monument  in  front  of  the  station.  Just  above  the  town  is  a small 
U.  S.  Navy  Yard.  Whaling  and  sealing  are  carried  on,  though  by 
no  means  on  the  same  scale  as^  of  old.  The  Yale  and  Harvard  boat- 
race  is  decided  here  in  June  or  July,  and  several  other  colleges  have 
boat-houses  on  the  Thames.  The  Public  Library  is  handsome. 

(134ft.  high),  which  stands  out  so  prominently  on  the 
Groton  HeigMs,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river  (ferry  4c.),  was  erected  to 
commemorate  the  b^rmng  of  the  town  by  Arnold  and  the  massacre  of 
Fort  Griswold  on  Sept.  6th,  1781  (Wiew  from  the  top:  adm.  10c.).  - 
At  the  mouth  of  the  Thames,  3 M.  from  New  London,  is  the  Pequot  House 
Grom  41/2),  a favourite  resort  (steamer  from  New  London).  — Steamers 
fill  rT  iroin  New  London  to  White  Beach,  Newport  (p.  89),  Block  Island 
Fisher’s  Island  (p.  84),  Shelter  Island  (p.  75), 
Sag  Harbor  (p.  75),  New  York  ($  IV2-2V4),  etc.  ’ 

$ 31/2-5  j Spring  Ho.,  Manisses,  $31/2;  Ha- 
toa?,  $21/2-31/2;  New  Adrian,  $21/2-3;  Hygeia,  $2-3,  etc.),  an  island 

situated  10  M.  from  the  coast  of  Rhode  Island, 
IS  a much-trequented  summer-resort  (mean  summer  temp.  73°).  It  is  also 

por?(comp  ^p  ^^)^^  Providence  and  New- 

7 LJattleboro,  121  M.,  New  London  Northern 

sef *n  88^  ^ Norwich, 

see  p.  88;  30  M.  Wilhmantic  (p.  87);  65  M.  Palmer.  — 85  M Amherct 

{Amherst  Ho.,  $21/2-4),  with  5000  inhab.,  is  chiefly  interesting  as  the  site 

6* 


84  Route  4. 


STONINGTON. 


From  New  York 


of  Amherst  College,  one  of  the  leading  educational  institutions  of  New 
England  (founded  in  1821;  400  students).  Among  the  chief  buildings  of  the 
college  are  the  Memorial  Chapel^  Walker  Hall^  the  Library  (80,000  vols.), 
the  new  Observatory^  the  Chemical  and  Physical  Laboratories^  Appleton  Cabinet^ 
and  the  Gymnasium.  Its  collections  of  Assyrian  pculptures,  minerals,  casts, 
meteorites,  and  prehistoric  tracks  of  animals  in  stone  are  of  great  import- 
ance. Amherst  is  also  the  seat  of  the  Massachusetts  Agricultural  College. 
The  Amherst  Mountain  Club  was  formed  in  1903  to  perform  for  the  moun- 
tains of  W.  Massachusetts  functions  similar  to  those  of  the  Appalachian 
Club  (p.  159).  Amherst  was  the  home  of  the  poetess  Emily  Dickinson 
(1830-86).  — 100  M.  Miller‘‘s  Falls  (p.  172);  109  M.  Northfield  (The  Northfield, 

$ 2-3),  the  home  of  the  evangelist  Dwight  L.  Moody  (d.  1899),  with  per- 
manent schools  and  annual  religious  conferences;  111  M.  South  Vernon 
(p.  182).  — 121  M.  Brattleboro^  see  p.  182. 

We  now  cross  the  Thames,  by  a huge  swing-bridge  (view),  to 
(127  M.)  Groton  (p.  83).  — 138  M.  Stonington  {Columbia.,  $2), 
a quiet  town  with  8540  inhab.,  is  the  terminus  of  the  ‘Stonington 
Line’  of  steamers  from  New  York  (see  p.  87). 

Steamers  ply  daily  from  Stonington  to  (4  M.)  Watch  Hill  and  Fisher's 
Island.  — Watch  Hill  {Watch  Hill  Ho.,  Ocean,  Larkin,  $4;  Plympton, 
Atlantic,  Columbia,  $3)  is  a sea-bathing  place  at  the  S.W.  extremity  of 
Rhode  Island  (comp,  below),  commanding  fine  views.  — Fisher’s  Island 
{Munnatawket  Hotel,  Mansion  House,  $4;  Moncnotto  Inn,  $3V2;  Hoffort 
Cottages,  $ 2-3)  is  a long  narrow  island,  close  to  the  shore,  frequented  for 
bathing  and  fishing. 

Beyond  Stonington  the  train  enters  Rhode  Island,  the  smallest 
state  in  the  Union  (‘Little  Rhody’;  50  M.  by  40  M.),  but  first  in 
the  proportion  of  manufactures  to  population.  We  cross  the  Paw- 
catuck  and  reach  (144  M.)  Westerly  (Dixon  Ho.,  $2^2"^)?  whence 
an  electric  tramway  runs  to  Watch  Hill{see  above).  Between  (155  M.) 
Carolina  and  Kingston  the  train  passes  through  the  famous  Cedar 
Swamp  (Narragansett  Fort),  where  King  Philip  and  his  Indians 
were  almost  annihilated  in  Dec.,  1675.  — 161  M.  Kingston,  the 
junction  of  a line  to  (9  M.)  Narragansett  Pier. 

Narragansett  Pier  (Imperial,  $4-8;  Gladstone,  New  Matthewson,  Green's 
Inn,  $4-6;  Atwood,  Revere,  $3-5;  Tower  Hill,  on  Narragansett  Heights, 
$ 2-3 ; Metatoxet,  Massasoit,  Atlantic,  $ 21/2-31/2 Arlington,  $ 2-31/2,  and  many 
others;  also  Lodging  and  Boarding  Houses),  second  only  to  Newport  among 
the  Rhode  Island  seaside-resorts,  has  a splendid  beach  and  good  opportun- 
ities for  boating,  fishing,  and  driving.  Good  views  are  obtained  from 
Narragansett  Heights  (200  ft.)  and  the  top  of  Hazard's  Castle  (165  ft.).  Among 
the  other  attractions  is  a large  Casino.  The  rocks  are  fine  both  in  form 
and  colour.  Point  Judith  (p.  89)  lies  5 M.  to  the  S.,  and  at  Hammond  s 
Mills,  7 M.  to  the  N.,  is  the  house  in  which  Gilbert  Stuart  (p.  Ixxxv)  was 
born  in  1755.  Commodore  Perry  (1785-1819;  p.  91)  was  a native  of  Nar- 
ragansett. Steamers  ply  daily  to  Newport  (p.  89)  and  Providence  (see  below). 

168  M.  Wickford  Junction,  for  (3  M.)  Wickford,  ythence  steam- 
ers ply  daily  to  Newport  (comp.  p.  89). 

188  M.  Providence.  — Hotels:  Narragansett,  cor.  Weybosset  St. 
and  Dorrance  St.,  $ 3-6;  Crown,  Weybosset  St.,  R.  from  $ 1,  well  spoken 
of;  Dorrance,  Westminster  St.,  R.  from  $ 1;  Newma^t,  Aborn  St.,  R.  from 
$ 1.  — Electric  Tramways  through  the  chief  streets.  — Steamers  to  New 
York,  Newport,  Bristol,  Fall  River,  Block  Island,  etc.  — British  Vice-Consul, 
Mr.  George  A.  Stockwell. 

Providence,  the  capital  of  Rhode  Island  and  the  second  city  in 
New  England,  with  (1900)  175,597  inhab.,  is  pleasantly  situated 


to  Boston.  PRQYIDENCE.  4.  Route.  85 

on  Providence  River  (the  N.  arm  of  Narragansett  Bay),  at  the  influx 
of  the  Seekonk  River. 

Providence  was  founded  by  Roger  Williams  in  1636,  after  his  expul- 
sion from  Massachusetts.  It  carries  on  important  manufactures  of  cotton 
and  woollen  goods,  steam-engines  (Corliss  Co.),  silver-plate  (Gorham  Co.), 
machinery  (Brown  & Sharpe  Manufacturing  Co.),  jewellery,  iron,  etc.  (total 

value,  in  1900,  $ 88,168,897  or  17,633, 779?.). 

Near  the  large  Union  Railway  Station  (1897),  in  the  centre  of 
the  town,  stands  the  handsome  City  Hall,  with  a medallion  of  Roger 
Williams  on  the  facade  (*View  from  the  tower).  In  front  is  a 
Soldiers'  ^ Sailors'  Monument,  and  facing  this,  at  the  other  end. 
of  Exchange  Place,  is  a Statue  of  General  Burnside  (1824-81). 
Westminster  Street,  the  chief  business-thoroughfare,  runs  hence 
towards  the  S.W.,  and  from  it  an  Arcade,  225  ft.  long,  leads  to  the 
left  to  Weybosset  St.  — A little  to  the  N.  of  the  station  stands  the 
*State  House,  a huge  Renaissance  structure  of  Georgia  marble  and 
white  granite,  finished  in  1903,  and  surmounted  by  a dome.  Among 
the  other  prominent  buildings  are  the  new  Post  Office,  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral,  and  the  Rhode  Island  Hospital.  The  handsome 
Public  Library,  opened  in  1898,  occupies  the  block  bounded  by 
Washington,  Greene,  and  Fountain  Sts.  — The  most  interesting 
part  of  the  town,  however,  lies  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Providence 
River,  reached  by  a bridge  near  the  Union  Depot.  Just  beyond  the 
bridge,  at  the  corner  of  College  St.  and  Benefit  St.,  is  the  County 
Court  House,  next  to  which  is  the  Athenaeum,  containing  a library 
of  60,000  vols.  and  some  interesting  portraits  (one  by  Sir  Joshua 
Reynolds)  and  a small  painting  on  ivory  by  Malbone  (‘The  Hours’). 
The  Rhode  Island  School  of  Design,  which  was  extended  in  1903  by 
the  opening  of  the  Metcalf  Memorial  Hall  in  Benefit  St.,  is  one  of 
the  only  three  schools  in  the  country  with  a textile  department  fcomp. 
p.  94,  270).  ^ ^ 

About  1/4  ^1-  Bp  the  hill  (cable -car  on  College  St.)  are  the 
buildings  of  Brown  University  (950  students),  founded  in  1764, 
in  a campus  shaded  with  fine  old  elms  and  entered  by  tasteful 
memorial  gates.  University  Hall,  the  oldest  part,  dates  from  1770. 
The  Ladd  Observatory  stands  on  Tip-Top  Hill.  To  the  N.,  at  the 
corner  of  Waterman  St.  and  Prospect  St.,  is  the  University  Library 
(150,000  vols.),  and  next  to  it  is  the  hall  of  the  Rhode  Island  His- 
torical Society,  with  interesting  relics.  The  John  Carter  Brown 
Library,  to  the  S.  of  Wilson  St.,  contains  one  of  the  best  collections  of 
American  Literature  in  the  country.  The  large  new  Rockefeller  Hall 
is  the  seat  of  the  Brown  Union.  Near  by,  in  Meeting  St.,  is  the 
Brown  Women's  College,  with  200  students.  — Prospect  Hill  Ter- 
race, near  the  University,  commands  a fine  *View  of  Providence. 

Among  the  interesting  old  buildings  in  Providence  are  the 
Friends'  Meeting  House  (1759) ; the  First  Baptist  Church,  originally 
founded  by  Roger  Williams  and  the  oldest  Baptist  Church  in  the 
country ; the  Ives  House,  at  the  corner  of  Brown  St,  and  Power  St. , 


86  Route  4. 


BRISTOL. 


From  New  York 


near  tlie  University,  with  an  interesting  portico ; the  Tillinghast 
House  (1710);  the  Hopkins  House  (1750);  the  John  Brown  House, 
Power  St.,  cor.  of  Benefit  St.,  a fine  example  of  its  date  (1786); 
the  Whipple  House,  Abbott  St.  (ca.  1660);  and  the  Betsy  Williams 
House  (1775),  Roger  Williams  Park. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  town  is  the  Roger  Williams  Park,  contain- 
ing a statue  of  Roger  Williams  (1607-83).  On  the  Seekonk 
River,  near  the  E.  end  of  Power  St.,  enclosed  by  a railing,  is  the 
State  or  What  Cheer  Rock,  the  first  landing-place  of  Roger  Williams. 

Among  tbe  pleasant  points  in  the  environs  of  Providence  are  Cranston, 
4 M.  to  the  S.W.,  with  the  Narragansett  Trotting  Park ; Mount  Hope,  seat 
of  King  Philip  (p.  84),  near  (14  M.)  Bristol  (see  below),  on  the  E.  shore 
of  Narragansett  Bay;  Hunt's  Mill  (3  M.);  Pawtucket,  Silver  Spring  (clam- 
bakes), Crescent  Park  (clam-bakes,  Vcariety  performances,  etc.).  Rocky  Point 
(clam-bakes),  and  other  places  on  Narragansett  Bay.  Bristol  [Belvedere, 
$ 3),  with  many  quaint  and  pleasant  old  houses,  carries  on  yacht-building 
and  the  manufacture  of  rubber  goods.  The  Herreshoff  Yards  here  produced 
the  ‘Columbia’,  ‘Reliance’,  and  other  famous  defenders  of  the  International 
Yacht  Cup.  Pop.  (19(X))  6901.  — The  sail  down  ^Narragansett  Bay  to  New- 
port (there  and  back  75  c.)  is  very  attractive  (comp.  p.  94).  — Steamer 
to  New  York  ($  3-3i/4),  see  p.  87. 

From  Providence  to  Worcester,  43^/2  M.,  railway  in  IV4-IV4  hr.  — 
This  line  ascends  the  pretty  industrial  valley  of  the  Blackstone.  At  (7  M.) 
Lonsdale  are  the  grave  and  monument  of  William  Blaxton  (see  p.  99;  to 
the  right).  16  M.  Woonsocket  (pop.  28,200).  — 4372  M.  Worcester,  see  p.  81. 

From  Providence  to  Boston  we  follow  the  ‘Old  Colony  Division’ 
of  tbe  N.  Y.  N.H.  & H.  R.R.  193  M.  Pawtucket,  a city  with  39,231 
inbab.  and  large  thread  and  other  mills,  was  tbe  place  where 
cotton-manufacturing  was  introduced  into  tbe  United  States  by 
Samuel  Slater  in  1790.  The  Slater  Mill  is  still  standing.  — 201  M. 
Attleboro,  in  Massachusetts,  with  manufactories  of  plate  and  jew- 
ellery; 208  M.  Mansfield.  About  2 M.  from  (215  M.)  Sharon  (Tbe 
Sharon,  $272)  Massapoag  Lake  (Massapoag  Hotel,  $3-4). 
218^2  M.  Canton  Junction.  — 223  M.  Readville  (p.  87),  with  its 
well-known  trotting- track,  where  a mile  was  trotted  in  2 min.  for 
the  first  time  in  Aug.,  1903  (by  ‘Lou  Dillon’;  comp.  p.  xcvi).  JRead- 
ville  is  the  nearest  station  for  an  ascent  of  Great  Blue  Hill  (650  ft.), 
the  highest  of  the  Milton  Hills  (p.  116;  fine  view),  now  part  of  a 
State  Reservation  of  4230  acres.  At  the  top  is  an  observatory,  well 
known  to  the  scientific  world.  — The  train  approaches  Boston 
through  (224  M.)  Hyde  Park  and  the  suburbs  of  Jamaica  Plain  and 
Roxbury.  231  M.  Back  Bay  Station  (p.  94). 

232  M.  Boston  (South  Union  Station),  see  R.  5. 

c.  Via,  Hartford  and  Willimantic. 

228  M.  New  York,  New  Haven,  and  Hartford  R.  R.  in  6 hrs.  (fares 
as  above). 

From  New  York  to  (110  M.)  Hartford,  see  R.  4a.  Beyond  Hart- 
ford this  line  diverges  to  the  right  from  that  to  Springfield  (p.  80) 
and  crosses  the  Connecticut  River,  119  M.  Manchester ; 12272  ^1* 


to  Boston. 


WILLIMANTIC. 


4.  Route.  87 


Vernon^  the  junction  of  a line  to  Melrose  and  Springfield  (p.  80).  — 
142  M.  Willimantic  (Plaza,  $ 2-2Y2;  Hooker  Ho.,  $ 2;  Rail, 
Restaurant),  a manufacturing  horough  on  the  river  of  the  same  name, 
with  8937  inhah.,  is  the  junction  of  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  (see 
p.  83).  — 167  M.  Putnam,  the  junction  of  lines  to  Worcester 
(p.  81)  and  Norwich  (p.  88).  175  M.  East  Thompson,  the  junction 
of  a line  to  Webster  So uthb ridge.  We  now  enter  Massachusetts. 
181  M.  Blackstone  Junction;  193  M.  Woonsocket  Junction;  201  M. 
Franklin;  208 Y2  M.  Walpole.  Beyond  (219  M.)  Readville  (p.  86) 
we  cross  the  Charles  River.  223  Y2  Dorchester,  a suhurhan  district 
of  Boston.  The  train  crosses  the  South  Bay,  passes  the  suhurhan 
stations  of  (225Y2  ^^0  Dudley  Street  (p.  96)  and  (227Y4  M.)  South 
Boston,  and  enters  the  S.  Union  Station  at  — 

228  M.  Boston  (see  R.  5). 


d.  By  Steamboat. 

1.  Steamboat  to  Newport  and  Fall  River  in  10-12  hrs.  (Pier  19,  N.  River, 
foot  of  Warren  St.);  Railway  thence  to  Boston  in  B/s  hr.  (through-fare 
$ 4 ; stateroom,  usually  with  two  berths,  $ 1-5). 

2.  Steamboat  to  Stonington  in  8-10  hrs.  (Pier  40,  N.  River)  and  Rail- 
way thence  to  Boston  in  2^4-374  hrs.  (fares  as  above).  Passengers  need  not 
leave  their  staterooms  at  Stonington  till  7 a.m. 

3.  Steamboat  to  New  London  (‘Norwich  Line’)  in  9-10  hrs.  (Pier  40,  N. 
River)  and  Railway  theuce  to  Boston  in  3-4V4  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

4.  Steamboat  to  Providence  in  10-12  hrs.  (Pier  18,  N.  River;  in  summer 
only)  and  Railway  thence  to  Boston  in  IV4  hr.  (fares  as  above). 

The  steamers  on  all  these  lines  are  well  fitted  up  and  contain  good 
restaurants,  etc. ; those  of  the  Fall  River  Line  (‘Priscilla’,  ‘Puritan’,  ‘Ply- 
mouth’, and  ‘Pilgrim’)  are  especially  large  and  luxurious  (comp.  p.  9). 
All  run  at  night,  leaving  New  York  about  5 or  6 p.m. , and  all  proceed 
through  Long  Island  Sound,  so  that  one  general  description  suffices.  Each 
line  runs  directly  to  its  terminus,  without  intermediate  stoppages.  Cabin- 
berths  are  included  in  the  fares  on  all  night-steamers,  but  state-rooms 
are  extra.  Fares  are  reduced  25  per  cent,  in  winter.  Meals  are  served  a 
la  carte  on  all  steamers.  Bands  play  on  the  Providence  and  Fall  River 
boats.  The  trains  in  connection  are  timed  to  reach  Boston  about  6-9  a.m. 
The  hours  in  the  reverse  direction  are  similar. 

5.  The  Steamers  of  the  Joy  Line  (Pier  35,  East  River)  run  weekly 
all  the  way  between  New  York  and  Boston.,  leaving  the  former  at  6 p.m. 
on  Sat.  and  the  latter  (Atlas  Stores)  on  Wed.  at  5 p.m.  (fare  $3,  including 
berth;  stateroom  $1-2;  meals  50  c.  each).  The  voyage  occupies  26  hrs. 
Steamers  of  this  line  also  ply  daily  from  New  York  to  Providence  in  14  hrs. 
(fare  $ 2),  whence  we  may  go  on  to  Boston  by  railway  as  above. 

The  steamers  of  all  the  lines  (except  No.  5)  start  in  the  North 
River  (p.  29)  and  proceed  round  the  Battery  (p.  30),  affording  fine 
views  of  the  city  and  harbour.  To  the  right  lie  Ellis,  Liberty,  and 
Governor  s Islands  (p.  3).  Passing  the  last,  we  bend  to  the  N.,  enter 
the  East  River  (p.  29),  and  pass  under  the  stupendous  Brooklyn 
Bridge  (p.  36),  which  is  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  steamer’s 
deck.  Beyond  the  bridge,  to  the  right,  opens  Wallabout  Bay,  with 
the  U.  S.  Navy  Yard  (p.  71).  On  both  sides  are  wharves  crowded 
with  shipping.  The  tower-foundations  of  the  new  Manhattan  Bridge 
may  be  seen  to  the  right  and  left,  and  farther  up  we  pass  under  the 


88  Route  4, 


NORWICH. 


From  New  York 


new  WUliamsburg  Bridge  (p.  37),  steer  between  BlackwelVs  Island 
(p.  66 ; new  bridge  in  progress)  and  Long  Island  City  (p.  73),  and 
then  thread  Hell  Gate  (p.  66),  with  Ward's  Island  and  RandaWs 
Island  (p.  66)  to  the  left. 

We  now  leave  the  East  River  and  enter  Long  Island  Sound, 
which  extends  for  a distance  of  115  M.  between  Long  Island  (see 
p.  73)  on  the  right  and  the  coasts  of  New  York  and  Connecticut 
on  the  left.  Its  width  varies  from  3 M.  to  30  M.  As  we  enter  the 
Sound,  we  pass  Berrian's  Island,  the  Brothers,  and Rikers  Island.  To 
the  right  is  Flushing  Bay,  with  the  town  of  Flushing  (p.  75).  The 
steamer  threads  a narrow  channel,  passes  Throgg's  Neck  (with  Fort 
Schuyler;  to  the  left),  and  enters  a wider  part  of  the  Sound.  Little 
Neck  Bay,  to  the  right,  is  famous  for  its  clams.  Among  the  islands 
which  conceal  the  mainland-coast  here  are  City  Island,  Hart’s  Island 
(with  the  paupers’  cemetery  of  New  York),  and  Hunter  s Island. 
Glen  Island,  near  New  Rochelle  (p.  76),  is  a favourite  picnic-resort 
(see  p.  27).  On  Sand’s  Point,  to  the  right,  is  a lighthouse  (fixed 
white  light).  Among  the  chief  points  on  the  mainland  farther 
on  are  Greenwich  (p.  76),  Norwalk  (p.  76),  Bridgeport  (p.  76), 
New  Haven  (p.  77),  and  Saybrook  (p.  83),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Connecticut  River.  The  lights  passed  are  Captain’s  Island  (fixed 
white),  Stratford  Lightship  (flash  white),  Falkners  Island  (revolv- 
ing white),  and  Cornfield  Lightship  (fixed  red),  to  the  left;  and 
Eaton’s  Neck  (fixed  white).  Plum  Island  (revolving  white),  and  Little 
Gull  Island  (fixed  white),  to  the  right.  We  are  here  about  7 hrs.  out 
from  New  York.  The  Norwich  Steamer  now  heads  for  shore,  enters 
the  Thames,  and  stops  at  New  London  (p.  83),  where  passengers 
disembark  and  proceed  by  train  to  Boston  (see  below). 

From  New  London  to  Boston,  103  M.,  railway  in  4-5  hrs.  The  train 
follows  the  bank  of  the  Thames  (view  to  the  right).  — 8 M.  Mohegan,  with 
a handful  of  half-breeds  who  represent  the  ‘last  of  the  Mohicans'  (comp, 
below). 

13  M.  Norwich  {Wauregan  Ho.,  $2-2V2  5 Buckingham,  $2),  an  attractive 
manufacturing  city  with  17,250  inhab.,  pleasantly  situated  between  the  Yantic 
and  Shetucket.,  which  here  unite  to  form  the  Thames.  Among  its  chief 
buildings  are  the  Court  House,  the  Free  Academy,  and  Bt.  Patricks  Cathedral. 
The  Slater  Memorial  contains  a fine  collection  of  drawings  and  photographs 
'Of  masterpieces  of  art,  casts,  a library,  etc.  The  old  Indian  Cemetery , in 
Sachem  St.,  has  been  the  burial-ground  of  the  Mohicans  or  Mohegans  from 
time  immemorial , and  contains  an  obelisk  to  their  famous  chief  Uncas 
(d.  1683).  On  Sachem'' s Plain,  near  Greenville  (13/4-2  M.  from  Norwich),  another 
monument  marks  the  spot  where  Uncas  captured  and  executed  Miantonomoh, 
Sachem  of  the  Narragansetts  (1643). 

Steamers  run  from  Norwich  to  New  York  (twice  weekly).  Watch  Hill 
(p.  84),  Block  Island  (p.  83),  Fisher's  Island  (p.  84),  and  other  points. 

At  Norwich  our  line  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  Central  Vermont 
R.  R.,  which  runs  to  Brattlehoro,  etc.  (comp.  p.  83).  14 V2  M.  Greenville  (see 
above).  At  (29  M.)  Plainfield  we  intersect  the  Worcester  division  of  the  N. 
Y.  N.  H.  & H.  R,  R.  About  4 M.  to  the  W.  of  (33  M.)  Danielson  is  Brooklyn, 
the  home  of  General  Israel  Putnam  (see  p.  123).  At  (47  M.)  Putnam  (p.  87) 
we  join  the  main  line  of  the  N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H.  R.  R.  Hence  to  (KB  M.) 
Boston,  see  R.  4c. 

Tbe  Stonington  Steamer  passes  tbe  moutb  of  the  Thames, 


to  Boston. 


NEWPORT. 


4.  Route.  89 


runs  inside  Fisher  s Island  (p.  84},  and  reaches  its  landing-place 
at  Stonington  (see  p.  84),  while  the  Fall  River  and  Providence 
Steamers  keep  on  their  course  outside  of  Fisher’s  Island. 

From  Stonington  to  Boston  (94  M.,  in  23/4-33/4  hrs.),  see  R.  4 c. 

We  now  pass  out  of  Long  Island  Sound,  Montauk  Point  (p.  75) 
lying  nearly  due  S.  To  the  left,  beyond  Fisher’s  Island,  is  Watch 
84  ^ fixed  white  light),  while  Block  Island  (p.  83;  light) 
lies  off  to  the  right  as  we  begin  to  bend  towards  the  N.  The  revolv- 
ing white  light  ot  Point  Judith,  5 M.  to  the  S.  of  Narragansett  Pier 
(p.  84),  next  shows  ahead,  to  the  left ; and  in  rounding  this  head- 
land, if  anywhere,  we  may  experience  a little  rough  weather 
Passing  Narragansett  Pier  (p.  84;  left),  we  keep  to  the  right  of  the 
Beaver  Tail  Light  (fixed  white),  on  Conanicut  Island  (p.93),  steer 
between  Goat  Island  (with  Fort  Wolcott;  left)  and  the  mainland 
yJPort  Adams;  right),  and  enter  Newport  harbour. 


Newport.  — Hotels.  Ocean  House,  burned  down  in  1898  and  not  yet 
^built^jNEw  Cliffs  Hotel,  with  view  of  the  sea,  from  $ 5:  Aqcidneck 
House,  Pelham  St.,  $ 4;  Sea  View,  Sea  View  Ave.,  from  $ 4:  Perry  House 
- hotels  of  Newport  compare  favourably 
^ large  watering-places,  as  the  fashionable  visitors  re- 
QHPh  so-called  ‘Cottages’  or  in  Boarding  Houses, 

as  the  JfwewcAewprer  ^ d;  Hill  Top  Cottage  (fashionable;  from  $5  a 
day),  the  Faisneau,  and  Eobbinson's.  — Gunther's  Restaurant,  3 Bath  Road. 

Commercial  Wharf  and  Broadway  to 
passing  near  Washington  Sq.;  also  to  Morton  Park 
Corner  , connecting  with  line  to  Stone  Bridge  and  Fall  River. 
wW  or  run  from  Washington  Sq.  (also  from  rail.  stat.  and 

uifpL  ^ along  Bellevue  Aye.  to  Bailey's  Beach  (10  c.);  also  from  Bailey’s 

Tbout  ir.'^Prh  ® (50  c each)  - Hack  (bargaining  advisable) 

about  81  per  hr.;  round  the  Ocean  Drive  (1-4  pers.)  $ 3-5;  from  the  wharf  nr 
station  to  the  hotels  50  c.  (1-2  pers.).  Hotel  Omnibus  50  c 

costTw  ofbathing-cabinand  costume  at  First  or  Easton's  Beach 

costs  25  c.  Full  costume  obligatory.  The  popular  hour  is  11-12 

Boats  may  be  hired  at  Kinsley’s,  Long,  and  Spring  Wharves  Newport 
IS  a favourite  port  for  Yachts  and  Yacht  Racing  ^ 

frequently  to  Block  Island’  Conanicut  Island,  Narra- 

Wharf  wrr'T’t  starMng  from  the  Commercial 

-Tort;  steamer  ($  3)  starts  at  tbe  Old  Colony  Wharf. 

etc,),  West  Marlborough  St.,  below 
Washington  Sq.  Another  route  to  Boston  (and  also  to  New  York)  is  by 

(cX  p st 

Sun'^Sd’n  n a m-  ‘o  1-30  p.m.  (60  c.),  and  on 

11  (2ae-);  music  and  dancing  on  Mon.  & Frid.,  9.30  p.m.  to 

heW  fn"A„?  ®‘  ~ Barbour  Fete,  sometimes 

front,'ani"s^5ppi:r  illumination  of  the  town,  water- 

Commercfafwhart’*"  “nd  Franklin  Sts.,  at  the  head  of 

Attractions.  Those  who  have  but  one  day  to  spend  at  New- 
port  should  make  their  way  to  the  First  Beach  (p.  91),  via  Touro  Park 

Hfifn  ' i or  Mile  Drive  (p  921 

2nd  B‘“i  fp.’ 91).“'  'P- 


Newport,  the  undisputed  ‘Queen  of  American  Seaside  Resorts’, 


90  Route  4. 


NEWPORT. 


From  New  York 


occupies  a low  plateau  near  the  S.W.  extremity  of  Rhode  Island 
(see  p.  93),  rising  from  a fine  harhour  which  opens  on  the  E.  side 
of  Narragansett  Bay.  It  contains  (1900)  22,000  inhabitants.  This 
population  is,  however,  very  largely  increased  in  summer  (June- 
Sept.),  when  visitors  flock  to  the  town  from  all  parts  of  the  United 
States,  taking  up  their  abode  for  the  most  part  in  the  luxurious 
country-houses  and  private  villas  known  here  as  ‘cottages’.  The 
older  part  of  the  town  adjoins  the  harbour,  but  the  new  and  fashion- 
able quarters  lie  higher  up  and  farther  back,  extending  across  to 
the  ocean  side  of  the  narrow  island. 

The  chief  reason  of  Newport's  popularity  is  said  to  be  its  balmy  and 
equable  climate,  but  the  natural  beauty  of  its  cliffs  and  surroundings 
would  alone  justify  its  reputation.  The  fashionable  people  of  the  whole 
N.E.  part  of  the  United  States  spend  the  early  months  of  summer  here 
as  regularly  as  they  pass  the  later  amid  the  Berkshire  Hills  (p.  174). 

Newport  was  settled  in  1639  by  W^illiam  Coddington  and  other  dissent- 
ers from  the  Puritan  church  of  Massachusetts , and  a century  later  had 
about  5000  inhabitants.  In  1770  Newport  was  surpassed  by  Boston  only 
in  the  extent  of  its  trade,  which  was  considerably  greater  than  that  of 
New  York.  About  this  time  a visitor  to  New  York  wrote  back  to  the  ‘New- 
port Mercury'  that  at  its  present  rate  of  progress  New  York  would  soon 
be  as  large  as  Newport.  It  suffered  greatly  during  the  Revolution,  how- 
ever, and  never  recovered  its  commercial  importance,  so  that  in  1870  its 
population  was  no  larger  than  in  1770.  During  part  of  the  Revolutionary 
struggle  Newport  was  occupied  by  the  French  allies  of  the  Americans, 
who  were  so  favourably  impressed  with  Rhode  Island,  that  they  sought  to 
have  it  ceded  to  France.  Win.  Ellery  Ghanning  (1780-1842)  was  a native  of  New- 
port, and  Bishop  Berlieley  (1684-1753)  lived  here  from  1729  to  1731  (see  p.  91). 

The  central  point  of  Old  Newport  is  Washington  Square  or  the 
Parade,  within  a few  minutes’  walk  of  the  railway-station  and  steam- 
boat-wharf. Here  are  the  State  House  (1738-43;  with  portrait  of 
Washington,  by  Stuart),  the  City  Hall^  a Statue  of  Commodore  O.H, 
Perry  (1785-1819),  the  hero  of  Lake  Erie  (p.  330),  the  Perry 
Mansion.,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  (with  an  Ionic  portico). 

Among  other  structures  in  the  business  quarter  are  the  Newport  Trust 
Company,  at  the  head  of  Commercial  Wharf,  opposite  the  Post  Office  (p.  89); 
the  Armoury  of  the  Naval  Reserves,  a little  farther  along  Thames  St. ; and 
the  Theatre,  in  Broadway. 

Following  Touro  St.  to  the  E. , we  pass  (left)  the  Synagogue 
(1762;  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  the  United  States),  the  Newport 
Historical  Society  (10-4;  interesting  relics),  and  (5  min.)  the  pic- 
turesque Hebrew  Cemetery.  Touro  St.  ends  here  and  Bellevue 
Avenue,  the  fashionable  promenade , begins,  running  to  the  S. 
(right).  To  the  right  is  the  Newport  Reading  Room,  A little  farther 
on  , to  the  left,  is  the  Redwood  Library  (1748),  a Doric  building, 
containing  40,000  vols.  and  some  sculptures  and  paintings  (open 
12-2).  The  hne  Fern-leaf  Beech , at  the  corner  of  Bellevue  Ave. 
and  Redwood  St.,  should  be  noticed.  Nearly  opposite  this  is  Touro 
Park  , given  to  the  town  by  Judah  Touro  (1775-1854) , one  of  the 
numerous  wealthy  Hebrews  who  at  one  time  lived  in  Newport.  In 
this  park  stands  one  of  the  most  interesting  relics  of  Newport, 
the  *Round  Tower  or  Old  Stone  Mill,  the  origin  of  which  is  still 


to  Boston. 


NEWPORT. 


4.  Route.  91 


somewhat  of  a mystery,  though  the  inferential  evidence  is  pretty 
strong  that  it  was  built  hy  Gov.  Arnold  in  the  17th  cent,  and  not 
by  the  Norsemen  in  the  11th.  Arnold,  certainly  describes  it  in  his 
will  as  ‘my  stone-built  wind-mill’,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  it  was 
used  in  this  capacity,  though  Longfellow  treats  it  more  respectfully 
in  his  ‘Skeleton  in  Armor’.  The  park  also  contains  statues  of  M. 
C.  Perry  (1794-1858)  and  W.  E.  Channing  (p.  90;  erected  in  1893); 
and  on  its  S.  side  stands  the  Channing  Memorial  Church. 

A few  hundred  paces  farther  on,  Bath  Road  (electric  tramway) 
leads  to  the  left  from  Bellevue  Ave.  to  the  (10  min.)  First  Beach. 

Bellevue  Avenue  soon  passes  the  Casino  (left),  a long,  low,  many- 
gabled  building,  containing  a club  (introduction  necessary),  a theatre,  etc. 
(concerts,  see  p.  89).  The  Lawn  Tennis  Championship  of  America  is  de- 
cided in  the  courts  attached  to  the  Casino  (Aug.).  A little  farther  on 
on  the  same  side,  stood  the  Ocean  House  (p.  89).  The  avenue  then  passes 
between  a series  of  magnificent  villas,  among  which  are  conspicuous  the 
Berwind  House  (to  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  Dixon  St.)  and  the  white 
marble  house  and  wall,  built  by  Mr.  W,  K.  Vanderbilt  but  now  owned  by 
Mrs.  0.  H.  P.  Belmont  (to  the  left,  about  3/4  m.  farther  on).  The  avenue 
then  turns  sharply  to  the  right  and  ends  at  Bailey’' s Beach  (p.  92). 

First  or  Easton’s  Beach,  a strip  of  smooth  hard  sand,  3/^  M.  long, 
affords  some  of  the  best  and  safest  surf-bathing  on  the  Atlantic 
coast.  Besides  the  bathing-houses  (see  p.  89)  there  is  a handsome 
pavilion,  containing  a restaurant  and  hot  and  cold  baths.  Behind 
the  beach  lies  Easton’’ s Pond,  and  at  its  farther  (E.)  end  is  a group 
of  cottages.  Easton  s Point,  forming  the  E.  barrier  of  the  beach, 
affords  an  excellent  view  of  Newport. 

beach  a road  leads  round  Easton’s  Point  to 
4 '-Purgatory,  a curious  fissure  in  the  conglomerate  rocks,  150  ft.  long, 

7-14  ft.  wide,  and  50  ft.  deep,  resembling  the  so-called  Chasms,  near  Manor- 
bier  in  S.  Wales  (see  Baedeker's  Great  Britain).  Numerous  legends  attach  to 
it,  one  relating  how  a youth  leaped  it  at  the  challenge  of  his  lady-love  and 
then  renounced  her  in  the  spirit  of  the  hero  of  ‘The  Glove’  by  Schiller- 
Not  love  it  is,  but  vanity,  sets  love  a task  Irke  that’.  Just  beyond  Pur- 
gatory is  Sachuest  or  Second  Beach,  where  the  surf  is  much  heavier  than 
at  Easton  s Beach.  To  the  N.  of  Sachuest  Beach  is  Paradise  Valley,  with 
the  picturesque  Paradise  Rocks,  ending  in  the  Hanging  Rocks,  below  which 
Bishop  (then  Dean)  Berkeley  was  wont  to  sit.  Here,  it  is  said,  he  com- 
posed his  Alciphron,  or  the  Minute  Philosopher’,  and  also  the  lyric  con- 
taining the  much-quoted  verse:  — 

‘Westward  the  course  of  empire  takes  its  way, 

‘The  first  four  acts  already  past, 

‘A  fifth  shall  end  the  drama  with  the  day, 

‘Time’s  noblest  offspring  is  the  last.’ 

Bishop  Berkeley’s  residence  (Whitehall),  in  Berkeley  Ave.,  to  the  N. 
of  Paradise  Road,  is  not  far  off;  it  has  been  restored  lately  and  is  shown 
tor  a small  fee.  Those  who  have  come  thus  far  by  carriage  (the  road  passes 
near  the  beaches)  may  continue  along  Indian  Avenue  to  Boothden,  once  the 
residence  of  Edwin  Booth. 

At  the  W.  end  of  Easton’s  Beach  begins  the  famous  *Cliff  Walk, 
which  runs  along  the  winding  brow  of  the  cliffs  for  about  3 M.,  with 
the  ocean  on  one  side  and  the  smooth  lawns  of  the  handsomest 
‘cottages’  in  the  town  on  the  other  (fine  views).  No  fences  inter- 
vene between  the  walk  and  the  cottage-grounds.  Passing  the  Chanter 


92  Route  4. 


NEWPORT. 


From  New  York 


House  and  two  groups  of  smaller  cottages,  clustered  round  a central 
hotel  (New  Cliffs  Hotel),  we  soon  reach  the  finely  kept  enclosure  of 
the  Oammell  Family^  containing  several  villas.  At  the  end  of  it  are 
the  ^Forty  Steps',  descending  to  the  rocks,  with  an  outlook  platform 
commanding  a fine  *Yiew  (to  the  E.,  Easton’s  Point,  Sachuest  Point, 
and  West  Island  in  the  distance;  below,  to  the  right,  Ellison^ s 
Rocks^.  Crossing  N array ansett  Avenue,  which  leads  from  this  point 
to  Bellevue  Ave.  (p.  91),  we  enter  the  Robert  Ooelet  Place,  and 
beyond  Webster  Street  we  pass  the  Ogden  Ooelet  House,  a reproduction 
of  a country-house  in  England.  A little  farther  on  we  pass  the 
* Two mbly- Lor illard- Wolfe  Cottage,  a long  many-gabled  red  build- 
ing, in  which  the  low  rambling  style  of  architecture  developed  in 
the  Newport  cottage  is  seen  to  great  advantage.  The  next  house  is 
that  of  Mr.  Cornelius  Vanderbilt,  an  imposing  structure  with  a rustic 
summer-house  on  Ochre  Point,  where  we  turn  to  the  right  (W.). 
Farther  on  we  cross  Marine  Avenue,  and  enter  the  grounds  of  Mr. 
Perry  Belmont,  adjoining  which  lay  the  enclosed  rose-garden  of  the 
late  George  Bancroft  (1800-1891),  the  historian.  Beyond  the  red 
villa  of  Mr.  J.  J.  Astor  we  pass  the  white  marble  palace  built  by 
Mr.  William  K.  Vanderbilt  (see  p.  91),  a magnificent  dwelling,  hut 
hardly  in  keeping  with  the  genius  loci.  Passing /S/icep  Point,  the  path 
descends  to  a lower  level.  Opposite  the  picturesque  stone  house  of 
Mr.  F.  W.  Vanderbilt  we  cross  a small  rocky  bridge.  To  the  left  is 
Rough  Point.  We  then  cross  the  Ledge  Road,  leading  from  Bellevue 
Ave.  to  the  Land's  End  (with  Ex-  Governor  Lippifs  House^,  off  which 
lies  CoggeshalVs  Ledge.  ■ Crossing  the  hill,  we  finally  reach  Bailey’s 
Beach,  a small  hay  with  a long  row  of  bathing-houses,  which  has 
become  the  fashionable  bathing-resort  of  the  Newport  cottagers. 

From  Bailey’s  Beach  we  either  return  to  town  by  one  of  the  ‘barges’ 
running  along  Bellevue  Ave.  (p.  91),  or  we  may  begin  the  beautiful 
Ocean  Drive,  which  skirts  the  coast  of  the  peninsula  to  the  S.  of 
the  town  for  aboutlOM.,  commanding  magnificent  views  (2-2^2 
comp.  p.  89).  Ocean  Avenue  , forming  the  first  part  of  the  drive, 
begins  at  Bellevue  Ave.  and  runs  to  the  W.  past  Bailey’s  Beach. 
To  the  left,  at  the  W.  arm  of  the  beach,  is  Spouting  Rock, 
where  the  water,  after  a storm,  rushes  through  an  opening  in  the 
rock  and  is  forced  to  a height  of  40-50  ft.  At  Lily  Pond  we  turn  to 
the  left  (S.).  Looking  over  the  bay  to  the  left,  we  see  Gooseberry 
Island,  with  the  house  of  the  Newport  Fishing  Club.  We  now  cross 
a bridge  over  a small  inlet  and  see  to  the  left,  on  Pricers  iSieck,  the 
United  States  Life-Saving  Station.  At  Brentcn  s Point  (*View)  the 
road  turns  to  the  right  and  runs  towards  the  N.,  soon  passing  Castle 
Hill,  the  residence  of  Prof.  Alex.  Agassiz,  and  several  other  villas. 
We  then  turn  again  to  the  right,  with  the  ocean  behind  us,  and  soon 
turn  to  the  left  into  Harrison  Avenue  or  the  Fort  Road.  To  the 
right  lie  the  Golf  Links  and  Club  House.  On  the  point  to  the  left, 
projecting  into  Narragansett  Bay,  stands  Fort  Adams  (p.  93),  and 


to  Boston. 


FALL  RTVER. 


4.  Route.  93 


ahead  of  us  lies  Newport  Harbour.  To  the  left  are  the  house  of 
Mr.  E.  D.  Morgan  and  some  other  fine  ‘places’.  On  a rocky  islet  to 
the  left  is  the  Lime  Rock  Lighthouse  ^ in  charge  of  Ida  Lewis,  the  ‘Grace 
Darling’  of  America.  Turning  again  towards  the  bay,  we  follow  the 
road  skirting  the  harbour,  and  regain  the  Parade  (p.  90)  through 
Thames  Street,  the  chief  business-street  of  the  old  town  (comp.  p.  90). 

The  so-called ‘AecA:'’,  embracing  the  district  between  the  Ocean  Drive  and 
the  harbour,  has  been  laid  out  in  numerous  winding  drives.  — Among 
other  points  of  interest  in  or  near  Newport  may  be  mentioned  Trinity 
Churchy  in  Church  St.,  dating  from  1725  and  often  preached  in  by  Bp.  Ber- 
keley (with  old  square  pews,  etc.);  the  First  Baptist  Church.,  in  Spring  St. 
(1644);  Vernon  House  (tablet),  cor.  Clarke  St.  and  Mary  St.,  headquarters 
of  Count  Rochambeau,  the  French  commandant  in  1780;  the  Bayer  or  Ban- 
nister House  (tablet),  the  headquarters  of  Gen.  Prescott,  the  commander  of 
the  British  army  of  occupation  in  1777;  the  17,  JS.  Naval  Training  Station 
and  War  College,,  on  Coaster  Harbor  Island  (3  p.m.  till  sunset);  Cloyne 
House,,  a boys'  school  on  the  mainland,  opposite  Coaster  Harbor  Island, 
with  many  rare  trees  in  its  grounds;  the  Naval  Hospital,,  opened  in 
1897 ; Fort  Adams  (fine  view),  near  Brenton's  Cove,  3 M.  from  the  town  by 
road,  but  easily  reached  by  boat  across  the  harbour,  with  room  for  a 
garrison  of  3000  men  (guard-mount  and  dress-parade  at  9 a.m.  daily,  ex- 
cept Sun.;  battalion  drill.  Wed.  4-5;  band-practice,  Mon.,  Wed.,  & Frid. 
at  3 p.m.);  Fort  Wolcott,  with  the  U,  S,  Torpedo  Station,,  on  Goat  Island  (no 
admission);  Morton  Park,  at  the  S.  end  of  Thames  St.;  and  Miantonomoh 
Hill  (view),  on  the  N.  side  of  the  city  (IV2  M. ; at  the  end  of  Malbone 
Road).  — The  steamer  to  Wickford  (see  p.  84;  12  M.,  in  1 hr.)  passes  be- 
tween Conanicut  Island  on  the  left  and  the  islands  of  Prudence,  Hope,  and 
Despair  on  the  right.  Jamestown  (Gardiner  Ho.,  Thorndike,  Bay  View  Ho., 
$3),  on  Conanicut,  is  a growing  summer-resort;  the  headland  nearest 
Newport,  known  as  the  Dumplings,  is  crowned  with  a fort.  The  Beaver- 
Tail  Lighthouse,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  island,  was  established  in  1667.  At 
the  N.  end  is  Conanicut  Park.  From  Wickford  to  Boston  (23/4-3  hrs.)  and 
to  New  York  (5-8  hrs.),  see  p.  84.  Fall  River  (see  below)  is  18  M.  from  New- 
port by  railway. 

Rhode  Island,  the  Indian  Aquidneck  (‘island  in  the  mouth  of  the  bay’), 
which  was  bought  from  the  Indians  in  1639,  is  about  15  M.  long  and 
3-4  M.  wide,  with  a population  of  about  26,000.  Its  present  name  was 
long  supposed  to  have  been  given  to  it  from  a fancied  resemblance  to 
the  Isle  of  Rhodes,  but  has  been  more  recently  explained  as  derived  from 
its  position  in  the  ‘roads’  of  Narragansett  and  thus  as  a simple  translation 
of  Aquidneck  (see  above;  comp.  ‘English  Historical  Review',  Oct.,  1903). 
It  has  been  extended  to  the  whole  state  (the  full  official  title,  however, 
being  Rhode  Island  and  Providence  Plantations),  far  the  larger  portion  of 
which  is  on  the  mainland.  The  island  is  fertile  and  well  farmed,  and 
much  of  its  surface  is  picturesque.  It  is  connected  with  the  mainland 
by  a railway  bridge  and  an  ordinary  road-bridge. 

Leaving  Newport,  the  Fall  River  Steamer  steers  between 
Prudence  Island  (see  above)  and  Rhode  Island,  and  enters  Mt.  Hope 
Bay,  opening  off  the  N.E.  corner  of  Narragansett  Bay.  On  the  pen- 
insula to  the  left  lies  Bristol,  connected  by  rail  with  Providence 
(comp.  p.  86).  In  1 hr.  we  reach  Fall  River  {Mellen  Ho,,  $ 21/2-^; 
Wilbur  Ho.,  $2),  which  lies  to  the  right.  The  river  to  which 
it  owes  its  name  rises  a little  to  the  E.  and  falls  about  140  ft.  in 
1/2  M.,  affording  admirable  water-power  to  the  mills  which  make 
the  town  one  of  the  chief  cotton-manufacturing  places  in  New  Eng- 
land. Total  value  of  industrial  products  in  1900,  $ 43,071,530  (four- 
fifths  cotton  goods).  Pop.  (1900)  104,863.  The  Bradford  Durfee 


94  Route  5. 


BOSTON. 


Textile  School  was  opened  in  1904.  Passengers  for  Boston  her© 
disembark  and  finish  their  journey  by  railway. 

From  Fall  Fiver  to  Boston,  51  M.,  railway  in  IV3-IV4  fir.  — Tfie  train 
skirts  tlie  E.  side  of  Mt.  Hope  Bay  and  tfien  crosses  it  to  (6  M.)  Somerset. 
13  M.  Taunton  (City  Hotel,  $21/2-3),  an  industrial  town  witfi  31,000  infiab., 
is  tfie  junction  of  several  local  lines.  32  M.  Stoughton  Junction;  40  M.  South 
Braintree.,  junction  of  a line  to  Plymoutfi  (see  p.  117).  At  Brookdale  Farm., 
near  (41  M.)  Braintree is  tfie  establisfiment  of  tfie  New  England  Kennel 
Club,  witfi  many  fine  dogs.  — 43  M.  Cluincy  (^Hancock  Hotel.,  $ 2),  a tfiriv- 
ing  suburban  city  (23,899  infiab.),  famous  as  tfie  home  of  tfie  Adams 
and  Quincy  families  (see  ‘Where  American  Independence  Began’,  by  Rev. 
Dan.  Wilson,  1903).  'fi'fie  old  Quincy  House  (tfie  home  of  Dorothy  Q.) , an 
interesting  example  of  Colonial  architecture,  dating  in  part  from  1636,  is 
to  be  fitted  up  as  a museum  of  Colonial  and  Revolutionary  relics.  The 
first  railroad  in  tfie  United  States  was  constructed  in  1826  to  carry  granite 
from  the  large  quarries  of  Quincy  to  (4  M.)  tfie  nearest  tide-water.  — 
Beyond  (45V2  M.)  Atlantic  we  cross  tfie  Neponset  River  and  various  arms  of 
Boston  Harbour,  traverses  Dorchester  and  South  Boston,  cross  tfie  Fort  Point 
Channel,  and  enter  tfie  S.  Union  Station  at  (51  M.)  Boston  (see  below).  — 
Trains  also  run  from  Fall  River  to  (54  M.)  Boston  via  (20  M.)  Middleboro 
and  (27  M.)  Bridgewater  (p.  119),  connecting  witfi  tfie  above  mentioned 
line  at  South  Braintree.  — The  express-trains  running  in  connection  with 
tfie  steamers  diverge  from  tfie  above  line  at  Taunton  and  run  to  Boston 
via  Mansfield  (p.  86). 

From  Fall  River  to  New  Bedford  (p.  120),  14  M.,  railway  in  35  min. 
The  Providence  Steamer,  on  entering  Narragansett  Bay,  steers 
to  the  left  of  Beaver  Tail  Light  and  Conanicut  Island  (p.  93),  rounds 
Warwick  Neck,  and  proceeds  through  the  beautiful  Narragansett 
Bay  to  Providence  (p.  84).  From  Providence  to  Boston  by  railway 
(45  M.,  in  11/4  hr.),  see  p.  86. 

5.  Boston.^ 

Railway  Stations.  1.  South  Union  Station  (PI.  I,  F 4,  5;  PI.  II,  D 3,  4*, 
restaurant),  bounded  by  Atlantic  Ave.,  Summer  St.,  Beach  St.,  and  tfie 
harbour,  one  of  the  largest  railway-stations  in  tfie  world  (810  ft.  long  and 
700  ft.  wide^  area  11 V2  acres;  greatest  single  span  of  roof  228  ft.),  completed 
in  1898  at  a cost  of  $ 14,000,000.  It  contains  28  tracks  on  tfie  main  floor  (used 
by  the  New  York,  New  Haven,  & Hartford,  and  the  Boston  & Albany  rail- 
ways) and  a four-track  loop  for  suburban  service  on  tfie  lower  floor  (not 
in  use  at  present).  — 2.  North  Union  Station  (PI.  I,  E F,  3;  PI.  II,  B,  2), 
Causeway  St.,  another  huge  building  witfi  a frontage  01  370  ft.,  used  by 
tfie  Boston  & Maine  railways.  — S.  Back  Bay  Station  (PI.  I,  E,  5;  PI.  II,  BC,  5), 
cor.  of  Dartmouth  and  Buckingham  Sts. , a secondary  stations  for  trains  of  tfie 
N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H.  R.  R.  from  tfie  South  Station.  — 4.  Trinity  Place  Station, 
cor.  of  Trinity  Place  and  Dartmouth  St.  (PI.  B,  5),  a secondary  station  of 
tfie  B.  & A.  R.  R.  trains  from  tfie  South  Station.  — 5.  Boston,  Revere  Beach, 
& Lynn  (PI.  D,  3),  Atlantic  Ave.  — Tfie  Armstrong  Transfer  Co.  has  its 
baggage-agents  and  carriages  at  each  station. 

Hotels.  *Todraine  (PI.  t;  C,  4),  at  tfie  somewhat  noisy  corner  of  Tremont 
and  Boylston  Sts.,  a large  and  sumptuously  equipped  house,  with  internal 
decorations  in  tfie  style  of  the  Chateau  of  Blois,  a handsome  library  with 
4000  well-chosen  volumes,  a view  over  tfie  Common,  and  a telephone  in 
every  room;  R.  from  $ 2 (without  bath)  or  $ 3 (with  bath),  meals  a la 
carte.  — *Someeset  (PI.  y,  A,  6),  Commonwealth  Ave.,  with  view  over 


•f  in  the  references  to' the  Plans  in  the  text,  PI.  I refers  to  the  ad- 
joining general  plan,  PI.  II,  or  where  neither  I nor  II  is  specified,  to  the 
plan  of  the  centre  of  the  city  (p.  100). 


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Hotels. 


BOSTON. 


5.  Route.  95 


the  Fens,  a fine  new  house,  with  large  rooms  for  balls  and  concerts,  E,.  from 
$ 2;  ’’•■•Vendome  (PI.  a;  B,  5),  cor.  of  Commonwealth  Ave.  and  Dartmouth 
St.,  from  $5;  Brunswick  (PI.  B,  5),  cor.  of  Boylston  and  Clarendon  Sts., 
from  $5,  E.  from  $2-,  ’^Victoria  (PI.  c;  B,  5),  at  the  cor.  of  Dartmouth 
and  Newbury  Sts.,  E.  from  $1;  Lenox  (PI.  w;  B,  6),  Boylston  St.,  near 
the  Public  Library,  E.  from  $ IV2;  Berkeley  (PI.  g;  B,  5),  cor,  of  Boylston 
& Berkeley  Sts.^  Copley  Square  Hotel  (PI.  B,  5),  Huntington  Ave., 
from  $ 372,  E.  from  $1V2,  these  seven  in  the  pleasantest  part  of  the  city.  — 
*Parker  House  (PI.  d;  C,  3),  School  St.,  E.  from  $1;  ^Young’s  (PI.  e;  C,  3), 
Court  St.,  near  the  head  of  State  St.,  E.  from  $172*,  Bellevue  (PI.  m; 

C,  3),  IT  Beacon  St.,  a family  hotel,  E.  from  $1^  Adams  House 
(PI.  f^  C,4),  553  Washington  St.,  E.  from  $1^  Essex  (PI.  s ^ D,  4),  opposite 
the  South  Union  Station,  E.  from  $ 172*,  “United  States  (PI,  h-,  D,  4),  near 
the  South  Union  Station,  from  $272,  E.  from  $ 1;  Thorndike  (PI.  i;  C,  4), 
Boylston  St.,  opposite  the  Public  Carden,  E.  from  $ I72;  Eevere  House 
(PI.  1-,  C,  3),  Bowdoin  Sq.,  E.  from  $1;  American  House  (PI,  n^  C,  3), 
54  Hanover  St.,  E.  from  $ 1 ^ Quincy  House  (PI.  0 ^ C,  3),  Brattle  Sq.,  $ 3-5, 
E.  from  $ Langham  (PI.  p^  C,  T),  1679  Washington  St.,  at  the  S.  End,  $ 272, 
E.  from  $1;  Commonwealth  (PI.  x^  C,  3),  86  Bowdoin  St.,  near  the  State 
Houses  Boston  Tavern  (PI.  r^  C,  3);  Clark’s,  577  Washington  St.^  Crawford 
House,  Scollay  Sq.,  these  four  commercial  houses,  E.  from  $ 1 ; Maverick, 
23  Maverick  Sq.,  E.  Boston,  E.  $ Franklin  Square  House  (PI.  v;  C,  6), 
for  women  only,  from  $ 372,  E.  from  $ 1,  The  Back  Bay  District  contains 
several  other  first-class  hotels  (Westminster,  etc.),  consisting  mainly  of 
suites  of  rooms  let  to  permanent  tenants  but  also  accepting  transient 
guests.  — Boarding  Houses  are  numerous  and  comfortable,  especially  on 
Beacon  Hill  (Pinckney  St.,  Mt.  Vernon  St.,  etc.)  and  in  Columbus  Ave.  and 
other  streets  at  the  S.  End;  rates  from  $7  a week.  Furnished  Apartments 
are  also  easily  obtained,  from  $4  a week.  Good  boarding  and  lodging 
houses  may  be  heard  of  at  the  Women's  Educational  & Industrial  Umon., 
264  Boylston  St.,  the  Y.  W.C.  A.,  40  Berkeley  St.,  and  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  (p.  104). 

Eestaurants.  At  the  ’^Touraine  (orchestra  from  6 to  8 and  10  to  12  p.m.), 
"Somerset.,  "Parker  House.,  "Young's.,  the  "Adams  House,  the  Thorndike,  the 
Victoria,  the  "United  States  (meals  75  c.),  the  Bellevue,  and  most  of  the 
other  hotels  mentioned  above;  Winter  Place  Hotel,  Winter  Place,  off  Winter 
St. ; Bathskeller,  at  the  American  House  (see  above),  handsomely  fitted  up, 

D.  174*,  Mieusset,  836  Washington  St.,  D.75c. ; Marliave,  11  Bosworth  St., 

D.  with  wine  75  c. ; Vercelli,  10  Hayward  Place,  Italian ; Frost  & Dearborn, 
8 Pearl  St.;  The  Moulton,  24  Summer  St.;  McDonald,  132  Tremont  St,  (fre- 
quented by  ladies);  Boston  Tavern  (see  above),  for  men;  German  Gaf&, 
in  the  basement  of  the  Hotel  Touraine,  much  frequented  after  the  theatre ; 
"Old  Elm,  83  Bedford  St.,  near  the  South  Station,  a characteristic  German 
resort,  with  good  beer;  Marston's,  25  Brattle  St. ; Crosby,  19  School  St. ; 
Cook,  Avon  St.,  frequented  for  supper  after  the  theatre,  S.  for  two  $ 1, 
with  imusic;  Zum  Biirgerbrdu,  Hayward  Place,  German  beer;  Hayward, 
Hayward  PI.,  D.  75  c.;  Lafayette,  Hayward  PL,  French,  L.  35  c.;  Cafeteria 
C Laboratory  Kitchen'),  35  Bedford  St.  (luncheon,  11-3);  restaurants  at  the 
railway-stations;  "Thompson's  Spa  (luncheon  counter),  219  Washington  St.; 
Mrs.  Atkinson's  Luncheon  Pi,ooms,  233  Washington  St. ; Luncheon  Room  at  the 
Women’s  Educational  Union,  264  Boylston  St.;  Oak  Grove  Creamery,  cor. 
of  Boylston  & Berkeley  Sts.;  restaurants  at  R.  H.  White's  and  other  large 
dry-goods  stores,  greatly  patronised  by  ladies;  Vegetarian  Restaurant,  555 
Boylston  St.  — ■•'Huyler's,  146  Tremont  St.,  for  ices,  etc. 

Steamers  ply  from  Boston  to  Liverpool  (Cunard  and  Leyland  lines  from 

E.  Boston,  PI.  I,  G,  3;  PL  II,  E,  1;  White  Star  line  from  Charlestown, 
PL  I,  F2,  3;  PL  H,  B,  1),  Gibraltar,  Genoa,  and  other  Mediterranean  ports 
(White  Star  and  Cunard  lines),  London,  Glasgow,  Hull,  Hamburg,  Jamaica 
and  other  points  in  the  W.  Indies,  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore, 
Savannah,  Portland,  Halifax,  Yarmouth,  St.  John,  Augusta,  Bangor,  Mt. 
Desert,  Provincetown,  Plymouth,  Isles  of  Shoals,  Nahant  (from  Bdiitevy  'Wha.vf), 
Revere  Beach,  Gloucester,  etc.  (wharves  on  the  W.  side  of  the  harbour). 
Steamers  also  run  from  Eowe’s  Wharf  (PL  D,  2)  to  Nantasket  Beach,  Hull, 


96  Route  5. 


BOSTON. 


Street  Railways. 


Hingham^  and  other  points  in  Boston  Harbour.  — Ferries  ply  to  Chelsea  (3  c.) 
and  East  Boston  (1  c. ; see  Map). 

Street  Railways.  The  urban  rapid  transit  system  of  Boston  is  almost 
wholly  under  one  management  (Boston  Elevated  Railway  Co.)  and  is,  per- 
haps, unique  in  its  combination  of  ‘surface’,  elevated,  tunnel,  and  sub- 
way lines,  all  connecting  and  interchanging  passengers  with  each  other. 
As  a result  of  a most  extensive  system  of  free  transfers,  a single  fare 
of  5 c.  carries  a passenger  from  any  one  point  to  any  other  within  an 
area  of  about  100  sq.  M.  The  track  consists  of  about  8 M.  of  elevated 
railway,  5-6  M.  of  subway,  and  195  M.  of  surface  lines.  The  company 
operates  3377  cars  and  employs  8000  men.  The  operating  power  is  electri- 
city. In  1903  the  number  of  passengers  carried  was  233,  563,  578,  about 
one-half  of  whom  availed  themselves  of  the  right  of  free  transfer,  thus 
making  a total  of  about  350,000,000  journeys. 

a.  Street  or  Surface  Cars  (uniform  fare  5 c.).  Electric  tramways 
traverse  all  the  chief  streets  and  run  to  innumerable  suburbs  within  a 
I’adius  of  12  M.  Among  the  chief  points  of  starting  and  intersection  are 
Adams  Sq.  (PI.  C,  3),  Scollay  Sq.  (PI.  C,  3),  Bowdoin  Sq.  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  North 
and  South  Stations  (PI.  B,  2;  H,  3,  4),  and  Copley  Sq.  (PI.  B,  5).  For 
connection  with  the  Subway  and  Elevated  Railway,  see  below.  Among 
the  chief  suburban  termini  are  Arlington  (p.  116),  Brookline  (p.  116),  Cam- 
bridge (p.  112),  Dorchester  (p.  87),  Franklin  Park  (p.  Ill),  Middlesex  Fells 
(p.  151),  Milton  (p.  86),  Mt.  Auburn  Cemetery  (p.  114),  and  Waverley  Oaks 
(p.  116^  comp.  Map  at  p.  116).  Among  the  more  distant  points  reached 
may  be  mentioned  Worcester  (p.  81;  cars  start  at  Park  Sq.,  PI.  C,  4).  The 
stopping-places  of  the  cars  are  denoted  by  white  bands  on  the  trolley- 
posts;  and  passengers  should  take  care  to  wait  only  at  the  precise  corners 
thus  indicated,  as  the  motor-men  are  forbidden  to  halt  their  cars  else- 
where. It  has,  unfortunately,  not  been  found  practicable  to  distinguish 
the  different  cars  by  coloured  lamps  or  numbers  as  in  Berlin  and  elsewhere. 

b.  Subway  Surface  Cars.  The  chief  starting-point  of  the  subway 
surface-cars  for  points  to  the  W.,  N.W,,  and  S.W.,  is  Park  St.y  at  the  N.E. 
corner  of  the  Common  (PI.  C,  3),  and  the  crowd  here  in  business-hours 
is  very  great.  An  ingenious  system  of  electric  signs  indicates  the  dock 
at  which  each  car  will  start.  These  cars  emerge  from  the  Subway  at  the 
S.W.  corner  of  the  Public  Garden  (PI.  C,  4).  Passengers  may  transfer 
without  extra  charge  to  the  Elevated  Railway  at  Park  St.  and  Boylston  St. 
Other  surface-cars  for  points  to  the  N.  start  at  Scollay  Sq.  (PI.  C,  3).  For 
the  use  of  the  Subway  by  the  Elevated  Railway  (separate  tracks),  see 
below;  for  a description  of  the  Subway,  see  p.  101. 

c.  Elevated  Railway  (fare  5 c.).  This  runs  from  Sullivan  Sq..,  Charles- 
town (PI.  I;  E,  1)  on  the  N.  to  (5  M.)  Dudley  St..,  Roxbury  (1^1.  I;  D,  7)  on 
the  S. ; the  central  part  forks , forming  a loop  enclosing  the  principal 
business  section  of  the  city  (comp.  Plan).  The  direct  trains  (consisting 
of  3 or«4  cars)  from  N.  to  S.  pass  Thompson  Sq.  and  City  Sq.  (PI.  II;  B,  1), 
cross  the  river  by  the  Charlestown  Bridge  (PI.  11;  B,  2)  to  the  North  Union 
Station  (PI.  B,  2),  descend  an  incline  into  the  Subway,  pass  Haymarket  Sq. 
(P1.C,2),  Scollay  Sq.  (P1.C,3),  Park  St.  (P1.C,3),  and  Boylston  St. 
emerge  from  the  Subway  at  Pleasant  St.  (PI.  C,  5),  and  again  follow  the 
elevated  track  to  Dover  St.  (PI.  D,  5),  Northampton  St.  (PI.  C,  7),  and  Dudley 
St.  (PI.  I;  D,  7).  The  loop-trains  diverge  from  the  above  route  near  the 
North  Station  and  run  over  the  Atlantic  Ave.  Loop  (stations,  see  Plan)  to 
the  South  Station  (PI.  D,  3,  4),  then  bend  to  the  right  and  run  via  Beach  St. 
(PI.  D,  4)  to  Pleasant  St..,  whence  they  return  as  above  to  Sullivan  Sq.  Similar 
loop-trains  start  from  Dudley  St. ; and  some  of  them  in  each  case  perform 
the  loop  in  the  reverse  direction  from  that  described  (i.e.  traverse  the  Sub- 
way first  and  then  Atlantic  Ave.). 

The  Atlantic  Ave.  trains  offer  the  best  means  of  communication  between 
the  N.  and  S.  Stations,  both  of  which  have  direct  connection  with  the  ‘L’ 
system.^  — Officials  on  the  station-platforms  call  out  the  destination  of 
the  trains,  and  the  trainmen  announce  each  station  as  the  train  reaches  it. 
Boards  suspended  in  the  cars  indicate  whether  passengers  should  leave 


Places  of  Amusement  BOSTON. 


5.  Route.  97 


by  the  ‘end-doors’  or  tbe  ‘side-doors’.  — At  the  Sullivan  Sq.  and  Dudley 
St.  terminals,  the  surface-cars  are  carried  by  inclines  to  the  level  of  the 
‘L’,  and  free  transfers  are  issued  for  all  points.  Free  transfers  are  also 
given  at  Park  St.  and  several  other  stations. 

[The  East  Boston  Tunnel  (p.  101),  now  nearly  completed  for  surface-cars, 
extends  from  Scollay  Sq.  along  State  St.  and  under  the  Harbour  (PI.  I,  G 3^ 
PI.  II,  D,  1)  to  Maverick  Sq.  in  E.  Boston  (PI.  I;  G,  3).  Another  tunnel 
for  elevated  trains  exclusively  is  to  be  constructed  under  Washington  St. 
from  Haymarket  Sq.  (PI.  C,  2)  to  Broadway  (PI.  C,  D,  5),  and  when  this 
tunnel  is  completed,  the  present  Tremont  St.  Subway  will  be  used  ex- 
clusively by  surface-cars.] 

The  ‘Seeing  Boston’  Observation  Cars  (comp.  p.  17)  offer  a good 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  city  in  a short  space  of  time.  The  cars  (electric) 
leave  the  waiting-room,  15  Park  Sq.,  opposite  the  old  Providence  Depot, 
every  day,  including  Sun.,  at  10  a.m.  and  2 p.m.  Fare  50  c.  The  route 
passes  through  the  most  important  parts  of  Boston,  from  Bunker  Hill  to 
the  residential  district  on  the  Back  Bay,  traverses  Cambridge  and  Brook- 
line, and  affords  views  of  other  suburbs.  A guide  accompanies  each  car 
to  point  out  the  objects  of  interest.  — Mr.  F.  A.  Waterman  (10  Hamilton 
Place)  also  conducts  parties,  starting  from  the  front  of  Park  St.  Church 
at  9 30  a.m.  and  2.30  p.m.,  to  the  chief  sights  of  Boston  (3  hrs.  ^ 50c.). 
^ Carriages.  For  cab-hiring  purposes  Boston  is  divided  into  a series 
Oi  districts,  with  regulations  too  complicated  to  summarize.  For  a short 
prive,  within  a district  or  from  one  district  to  that  immediately  contig- 
uous, the  rate  for  each  person  is  : Hacks  50  c.,  Herdics  and  other  Cabs 
2j  c.  Double  fares  from  midnight  till  6 a.m.  Ordinary  luggage  free.  Fare 
per  hour  (1-4  pers.)  $1-172,  with  two  horses  $172-272. 


Places  of  Amusement.  Tremont  Theatre  (PI.  C,  4);  Boston  Theatre 
(PI.  C,  4),  the  largest  in  New  England^  Hollis  Street  Theatre  (PI.  C.  4): 
Lolurt^ia  Theatre  (PI.  7^  D,  5);  Park  Theatre  (PI.  C,  4);  Colonial  Theatre 
(PI.  C,  4)^  Majestic  (PI.  C,  4)*,  Castle  Square  Theatre  (PI.  C,  5),  with  good 
performances  of  plays  and  English  opera  at  a uniform  price  of  25  c.  or 
50  c.;  Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  11  ^ D,  5),  Washington  St.:  Bowdoin  Sqtcare 
Theatre  (PI.  3^  C,  3);  Keith’‘s  Theatre  (Pi.  C,  4),  with  a continuous  variety 
perlormance  (prices  25  c.  to  $ 172)5  Biiou  (PI.  C,  4)  5 Dudley  Street  Opera 
House,  113  Dudley  St.  5 Globe,  Washington  St.,  cor.  of  Beach  St.  Hub 
Theatre,  Washington  St.,  cor.  of  Dover  St.  5 Howard  Athenaeum  (PI.  C,  3), 
Palace  Thecitre  (PI.  16  5 C,  3),  Lyceum,  variety  performances  at  low  prices: 

vaudeville  and  melodrama  5 Turnhalle  (PI.  C,  5), 
29  Middlesex  St.  (occasional  performances  in  German)  5 Italian  Theatre, 
North  St  5 Children's  Theatre,  30  Huntington  Ave.  — The  celebrated  * Boston 
Symphony  Concerts  d.vQ  held  in  Symphony  Hall  (PI.  B,  7;  Frid.  afternoon 
and  Sat.  ev  g.  in  winter).  Other  good  concerts  are  given  in  the  same  hall 
(including  popular  evening  concerts  in  summer,  with  smoking  and  refresh- 
ments) and  in  Steinert  Hall,  Potter  Hall,  Jordan  Hall,  Chickering  Hall,  the 
Tremont  Theatre,  Tremont  Temple,  and  the  Mechanics'  Hall  {P\.  B,  65  for  large 
gatherings).  Cheap  Sunday  Concerts  are  given  ni  ChQ  Majestic  Theatre.  The 
L^ndel  A:  Haydn,  Harvard  Musical,  Cecilia,  Apollo,  and  Orpheus  are  among 
the  best  of  the  musical  societies.  — The  free  lectures  of  the  Lowell  In- 
stitute (tickets  on  previous  application)  are  delivered  in  winter  at  the  In- 
stitute of  Technology  (p.  104).  — Art  Exhibitions  are  held  regularly  in  tbe 
rooms  of  the  iiosion  Art  Club  (PI.  B,  5),  Dartmouth  St.,  and  at  Copley  Hall. 

— Good  Flower  Shows  are  held  in  Horticultural 
Hall  (PI  C,  3).  — The  Baseball  Grounds  of  the  National  League  are  in  Walpole 
ot.,  at  the  S.  End 5 those  of  the  American  League  are  in  Huntington  Ave., 
close  by.  -- A Lawn  Tennis  Tournament  is  held  annually  at  the  grounds  of  the 
Longwood  Club.  — Public  Golf  Links  at  Franklin  Park(p.  111).  — Charles  River 
Park,  near  the  Cambridge  end  of  Harvard  Bridge  (PI.  A,  6),  with  bicycle 
track,  etc.  — Horse  Races  at  the  Country  Club  (p.  98)  and  Mystic  Park. 

Clubs.  Somerset  (PI.  B,  4),  42  Beacon  St. ; Algonquin  CPI.  A,  B,5),  217  Com- 
monwealth Ave.  5 St.  Botolph  (PI.  B,  5),  2 Newbury  St.,  with  Sat.  evening 
reunions  in  the  style  of  the  Century  Club  at  New  York  (p.  22)  and  frequent 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  7 


BOSTON. 


Situation. 


98  Route  5. 


avt-exhibitions;  £rmo»(Pl.  C, 3),  8 Park  St.-,  TempJe(PLG,  4), 74 Boylston  St. ; 
Puritan  (PI.  18 : B,  4),  cor.  of  Beacon  and  Spruce  Sts.^ 

270  Beacon  St.:  Technology,  83  Newbury,  Elysium,  218  Huntington  Ave. 
(Hebrew)*  Tavern  Club  (PI.  20^  C,  4),  4 Boylston  Place;  Authors  Club; 
Boston  Art  Club,  cor.  of  Dartmouth  and  Newbury  Sts. ; 20th  Century  Club, 
2 Ashburton  Place,  with  weekly  lectures  on  questions  of  social  interest ; 
Exchange  Club,  118  Milk  St. ; Turnverein,  29  Middlesex  St.,  German;  Boston 
Athletic  Association  (PI.  B,  5),  Exeter  Tennis  & Racquet 
939  Boylston  St.;  Mayflower  Club  (for  ladies),  7 A Park  St  pL  C,  3);  New 
England  Womens  Club,  Huntington  Ave.;  Press  156A  Tremont  St.; 

Women's  Press  Club;  Appalachian  Mt.  Club,  Tremont  Building;  Camera  Club , 
50  Bromfield  St.;  New  Riding  Club,  52  Hemenway  St  near  Back  Bay  Park ; 
Boston  Driving  Club,  Charles  Eiver  Speedway  (p.  115);  Massachusetts  Auto- 
mobile Club,  751  Boylston  St.;  Country  Club,  Clyde  Park,  Brookline ; 

Boat  Club,  foot  of  Chestnut  St. ; Victorian  Club,  for  British  residents  (“®et- 
ings  at  the  Hotel  Westminster).  — Among  the  numerous  Rtmng  Clubs, 
which  are  a characteristic  Boston  institution,  are  the  Saturday  Club  and 
the  Pamrus,  besides  several  of  a political,  commercial,  or  professional 
romnlexion  ; while  other  good  clubs,  meeting  periodically  at  the  members 
lie  Wednesd^  Nve^iing  Club  (founded  1777),  the  Thursday 
Evening  Club,  and  the  Bound  Table  {socxologic.^]). 

Tourist  Agents,  Raymond  <b  Whitcomb,  306  Washington  St.;  Thos. 
Cook  & Son,  332  Washington  St.  7 on  « ^ 7 

Post  Office  (PI.  C,3),  Devonshire  St.,  open  from  7.30  a.m  p T.dUp.m., 
Sun.  9-10  a.m.  (see  p.  103).  Branch  Offices  at  Copley  Sq.  (p.  104),  at  Wash- 
ington St.,  cor.  of  Brookline  St.  (PI.  p 6),  etc. 

British  Consul,  Capt.  Wyndham,  13  Exchange  Place  (PI.  C,  3). 
Booksellers.  Old  Corner  Book  Store,  27  Bromfield  St. ; 0(arA;e,  Park  St., 
corner  of  Tremont  St.;  De  Wolfe,  Fiske,  & Co.;  Utile,  Brown,  & Co.;  C.E. 
Lauriat  & Co.,  all  in  Washington  St.  (Nos.  365,  254,  301);  Cwpples  A:  Schoenhof 
(foreign  books),  128  a Tremont  St.  (first  floor). 

Bibliography.  An  excellent  popular  account  of  Boston  M.  A.  De 
Wolfe  Howe's  ‘Boston : the  Place  and 

M.  Bacon's  ‘Boston,  a Guide  Book’  (1903)  a^  and  Rides  about 

Boston’  ($  1.25);  Henry  Cabot  Lodges  ‘Boston’  (‘Historic  Towns  Series) ; A 
Drake's  ‘Old  Landmarks  and  Historic  Personages  of  Boston  ; and  the  Spe- 
cial Boston  Number’  of  the  ‘Journal  of  Geography  (June,  1903;  20  c.). 


Boston,  the  capital  of  Massachusetts,  the  chief  town  of  New 
England,  and  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  interesting  cities 
United  States,  lies  at  the  head  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  about  200  M. 
to  the  N.E.  of  New  York.  Boston  proper  occupies  a peninsula  be- 
tween the  Charles  River  and  the  arm  of  the  hay  known  as  Boston 
Harbour  and  was  originally  founded  on  three  hills,  Beacon,  Copp  s, 
and  Fort,  which,  however,  have  been  materially  cut  down.  The  city 
limits  also  include  East  Boston,  on  Noddle's  or  Maverick  Island,  on 
the  other  side  of  the  harbour;  South  Boston,  separated  from  the  old 
city  by  an  arm  of  the  harbour;  Charlestown,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river ; and  the  suburban  districts  of  Brighton  ( W.],  Roxbury  (or  Boston 
Highlands),  West  Roxbury  (including  Jamaica  P/ain),  Dorchester 
(S  ) Boston  is  connected  with  the  city  of  Cambridge  (p.  llij  by 
several  bridges  across  the  Charles.  The  old  town  is  cramped  and 
irregular,  and  its  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked  ; but  the  new  parts, 
especially  the  district  known  as  the  Back  Bay  (p.  110),  formed  by 
filling  in  the  tide-water  flats  on  the  Charles,  are  laid  out  on  a 
very  handsome  and  spacious  scale.  The  chief  retail  business-street* 
are  Washington  Street  and  Tremont  Street,  the  former  of  which  rank* 


History, 


BOSTON. 


5.  Route.  99 


among  the  most  crowded  thoroughfares  in  Christendom.  Among  the 
finest  residence  streets  are  Commonwealth  Avenue  (p.  109),  Beacon 
Street  (p.  110),  Marlborough  Street,  Mt.  Vernon  Street,  and  Bay 
State  Road.  A characteristic  feature  of  the  residence  (Quarters  is 
seen  in  the  luxuriant  vines  of  ‘Boston  ivy’  (Ampelopsis  Veitchii)^ 
which  cover  many  of  the  buildings  (especially  beautiful  in  autumn). 
The  population  of  Boston  in  1900  was  560,892,  including  a large 
proportion  of  Irish  Roman  Catholics. 

History.  The  Indian  name  of  the  peninsula  on  which  Boston  lies 
was  Shawmut  (‘Sweet  Waters^,  and  the  early  colonists  called  it  Trimoun- 
taine  ov  Tremont.  The  first  English  settler  was  a recluse  Anglican  clergyman 
the  Rev.  William  Blaxton  ov  Blaekstone  (ca.  1623),  but  soon  after  the  arrival 
of  the  Salem  Colonists,  who  migrated  to  this  peninsula  in  1630  (see 
p.  122),  he  transferred  his  rights  to  them  (1634)  for  30?.  and  moved  into 
the  wilderness  (comp.  p.  86).  The  new  settlers  named  the  place  Boston 
in  honour  of  the  native  city  of  some  of  their  leaders,  and  Gov.  Winthrop 
made  it  the  capital  of  the  colony.  The  little  town  increased  with  some 
rapidity  and  soon  carried  on  a considerable  sea-going  trade  (first  wharf 
built  in  1673).  In  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent.  Boston  was  probably  the 
largest  and  most  important  town  in  America,  containing  about  25,000  in- 
hab.,  and  outstripping  New  York  and  Philadelphia.  The  first  American 
newspaper  (‘Boston  News  Letter’)  was  published  here  in  1704.  Boston’s 
share  in  the  Revolution  is  well  known.  The  ‘Boston  Massacre’  (see  p 103) 
occurred  on  Mar.  5th,  1770,  and  the  ‘Boston  Tea  Party’  on  Dec.  16th  1773 
(comp.  pp.  104,  112).  During  the  war  Boston  was  occupied  by  British  troops 
but  on  Mar.  4th,  1776,  Washington  crossed  from  Cambridge,  took  possession 
of  Dorchester  Heights  (now  a part  of  South  Boston,  p.  98),  and  compelled 
the  evacuation  of  the  city  (Mar.  17th).  Since  the  Revolution  Boston’s 
upward  course  has  continued  steadily,  with  a few  interruptions,  of  which 
the  embargo  of  1807-15  was  perhaps  the  most  important.  It  received  its 
city  charter  in  1822,  having  then  a population  of  about  50,000.  In  1840 
93,383,  in  1860  to  177,840,  in  1880  to  362,839,  and 
in  1890  to  448,477.  In  1872  the  chief  business  portion  of  the  city  was 
a fire,  which  destroyed  property  to  the  value  of  $70,000,000 
(14,000,001);.).  From  1830  to  1860  Boston  was  the  headquarters  of  the 
Abolitionist  Party,  led  by  William  Lloyd  Garrison  and  Wendell  Phillips. 

It  is  of  great  interest  to  study  a plan  of  Boston,  showing  the  original 
area  of  the  peninsula  and  the  extent  to  which  it  has  been  increased  by 
hlling  in  the  tidal  flats  all  round  it  (see,  e.  g.,  M.  Howe'^s  ‘Boston’). 
Ihis  process  has  more  than  doubled  the  area  of  the  peninsula  (780  acres- 
now  about  1830  acres),  while  the  total  area  now  comprised  within  the 
municipal  limits  is  over  27,000  acres  (43  sq.  M.).  The  hills  have  been 
partly  levelled,  and  indeed  the  whole  face  of  the  ancient  city  has  been 
entirely  altered,  with  the  exception  of  three  old  burial-grounds  and  a few 
buildings.  The  original  peninsula  was  connected  with  the  mainland  on 
the  b.  by  a narrow  ‘Neck’,  little  wider  than  the  present  Washington  St., 
which  runs  along  it.  Boston  has  often  been  described  as  the  most  English 
of  American  cities,  and  in  many  respects  this  is  true,  though  it  must  not  be 
understood  to  indicate  a conscious  or  voluntary  imitation  of  English  stand- 
ards. Mere  wealth  probably  counts  for  less  in  Boston  than  in  any  other 
large  American  city.  As  a literary  centre  Boston  was  long  supreme  in  the 
Lnited  States  and  still  disputes  the  palm  with  New  York.  A list  of  its 
^stinguished  literary  men  would  include  Hawthorne,  Emerson,  Longfellow, 
Holmes,  Lowell,  Everett,  Agassiz,  Whittier,  Motley , Bancroft,  Prescott,  Parkman, 
licknor,  Ghanmng,  Theodore  Parker,  Henry  James,  T.  B.  Aldrich,  Howells 
among  the  names  more  or  less  closely  associated  with  Boston.  Among 
other  spheres  are  Benjamin  Franklin  (born 
p ^0.  Milk  bt.,  the  site  of  which  is  now  covered  by  an  office-build- 
ing,  with  a bust  of  Franklin),  Daniel  Webster  (138  Summer  St.:  in- 
scription), and  Charles  Sumner  (20  Hancock  St.).  Paul  Revere  lived  at 


100  Route  5.  BOSTON.  Boston  Common. 

No  19  North  Sq.  (PI-  C,  2).  Prescott  wrote  his  ‘Conquest  of  Peru  and 
‘Philip  II/  at  No.  55  Beacon  St.,  where  he  spent  the  last  14  years  of  his 
life  • and  George  TicJcnor  occupied  part  of  the  house  at  the  corner  of  Park 
St  and  Beacon  St.  where  Lafayette  lodged  in  1824.  The  Atlantic  Monthly 
is 'published  at  Boston  (Houghton,  Mifflin,  & Co.,  4 Park  St.). 

Commerce  and  Industry.  Boston  is,  perhaps,  the  wealthiest  city  in 
America  in  proportion  to  population.  Its  total  valuation  in  1903  was 
$ 1 220  457  323  (244.091, 465L).  Boston  capital  has  been  very  largely  in- 
strumental in  the  development  of  the  West.  Its  foreign  commerce  is  very 
extensive;  the  total  value  of  its  exports  in  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  dOth, 
1803,  was  $86,555,754,  of  its  imports  $78,143,151.  Among  the  chief  articles 
are  grain,  live-stock,  provisions,  hemp,  fish,  wool,  sugar,  hides,  ch^icals, 
and  coals.  In  the  same  year  its  harbour  was  entered  and  cleared  by  dddd 
vessels  (exclusive  of  coasters),  of  4,698,216  tons  burden.  Its  manufactures 
are  very  varied , employing  (19C0)  72,000  hands  and  producing  goods  to 
tlie  value  of  $206,081,767.  Among  the,  staples  are  leather,  boots  and 
shoes,  hardware,  machinery,  sugar,  and  cotton.  As  a wool  market,  Boston 
is  second  to  Loudon  alone,  handling  nearly  1,000,000  bales  annually. 

^=Boston  Common  (PI.  B,  C,  3, 4),  a park  of  48  acres  in  the  heart 
of  the  city,  shaded  hy  line  elms  and  other  trees  and  crossed  hy  many 
pleasant  walks,  has  been  reserved  for  public  use  since  1634  and  is 
carefully  guarded  for  this  purpose  in  the  charter  of  1822.  Perhaps 
no  other  city-park  in  the  world  is  more  closely  entwined  with  the 
historic  interests  and  warm  affections  of  the  surrounding  population. 

The  Soldiers"  Monument^  on  a hill  near  the  centre  of  the  Common, 
was  designed  by  Martin  3Iilmore  and  erected  in  1871-77.  It  stands  near 
the  site  of  the  Old  Elm,  which  was  older  than  the  city  and  was  blown 
down  in  1876.  The  adjoining  sheet  of  water  is  known  as  the  Frog  Pond. 
On  the  Mall  abutting  on  Tremont  St.  is  a monument  in  memory  of 
Crispus  Attucks  and  others  killed  in  the  Boston  Massacre.  The  Lo^  Bath 
(see  ‘The  Autocrat  of  the  Breakfast  Table’)  extends  from  Joy  St.  (PI;  0,3) 
to  Boylston  St.  (PI.  C,  4).  Near  Park  St.  (N.  end  of  the  Common)  is  the 
tasteful  Brewer  Fountain.  — Open-air  concerts  are  given  on  the  Common 
on  Sun.  afternoons  in  summer.  ^ Am  n 

On  the  S.  side  of  the  Common  is  the  Central  Burying 
laid  out  in  1756  and  containing  the  graves  of  Gilbert  Stuart  (1754-loio), 
the  portrait-painter,  and  Julien  (d.  1805),  the  restaurateur  (after  whom 
the  well-known  soup  is  named).  — To  the  N.  of  the  Common,  adjoining 
Tremont  St.,  is  the  "Old  Granary  Burial  Ground  (PI.  C,  3),  which  contains 
the  graves  of  several  early  governors  of  Massachusetts,  the  parents^  ot 
Beni.  Franklin,  the  victims  of  the  Boston  Massacre,  Samuel  Adams 
1803),  John  //ancocA:  (1737-93),  Paul  Revere  (1735-1818),  James  Otis  (1/20-83), 
and  numerous  other  Boston  worthies  (permit  at  the  City  Hall). 

On  theS.W.  side  the  Common  is  bounded  by  Charles  St.,  on  the  other 
side  of  which  is  the  ^Public  Garden  (PI.  B,  C,  4),  24  acres  in  extent,  the  site 
of  which  half-a-century  ago  was  a tidal  flat.  The  show  of  flowers 
in  spring  and  summer  is  very  fine.  Among  the  monuments  in  the  Public 
Garden  are  an  equestrian  "Statue  of  Washington,  by  Ball,  statues  of  Edward 
Everett  (1794-1865*,  by  Story),  and  Sumner  (1811-74  5 by  Ball),  and  a group 
commemorating  the  Discovery  of  Ether,  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward.  [Few  either 
of  these  or  of  the  other  statues  in  Boston  do  credit  to  its  taste  tor  art.! 
Pleasure-boats  ply  on  the  artificial  sheet  of  water  in  the  centre.  — At 
the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Public  Garden  stands  a bronze  statue  of  Dr.  William 
Ellery  Channing  (1780-1842),  by  Herbert  Adams,  with  a carved  canopy  by 
‘ Vincent  C.  Griffith.  Immediately  opposite  is  the  Arlington  Sweet  Lhurcn, 
built  in  1859,  by  the  congregation  of  which  Dr.  Channing  (p.  90)  was  pastor 
from  1803  till  his  death. 

That  part  of  the  Common  adjoining  Tremont  St.  and.  known  as 
the  Tremont  St.  Mall  is  now  occupied  by  eight  small  buildings 


State  House. 


BOSTON. 


5.  Route.  101 


covering  tlie  staircase  entrances  to  the  stations  of  the  *Subway,  a 
wonderful  piece  of  engineering  designed  to  relieve  the  traffic  of  the 
congested  districts  hy  affording  an  underground  passage  for  the 
electric  cars.  The  subway  was  begun  in  1895,  was  partly  opened 
for  traffic  in  1897,  and  was  completed  in  1898  at  a total  cost  of 
about  $4,165,000.  No  visitor  to  Boston  should  fail  to  see  this  com- 
modious, airy,  and  well-lighted  tunnel. 

The  main  subway  extends  from  the  junction  of  Tremont  St.  and 
Shawmut  Ave.  (PI.  C,  5)  to  (IVs  M.)  the  N.  Union  Station  (PI.  B,  2),  pass- 
ing below  Tremont  St.,  Scollay  Sq.  (PI.  C,  3),  and  Haymarket  Sq.  (P1.C,2). 
A branch-subway,  beginning  in  the  Public  Garden,  opposite  Church  St. 
fPl.  C,  4),  runs  under  Boylston  St.  to  the  corner  of  Tremont  St.  (PI.  C,  4). 
Some  sections  are  constructed  of  steel,  embedded  in  cement,  with  arches 
,of  brick  or  concrete ^ other  sections  are  of  masonry.  The  interior  at  the 
stations  is  lined  with  glazed  white  brick.  At  places  there  are  ‘’sub-sub- 
ways’, one  track  passing  below  another,  and  at  other  points  there  are 
four  tracks.  — The  East  Boston  Tunnel  (see  p.  97)  is  about  IV2  M.  long, 
of  which  upwards  of  a third  is  under  water.  Its  diameter  is  232/3  ft.,  or 
about  the  same  as  that  of  the  Blackwall  Tunnel  under  the  Thames  and 
its  approximate  co4  was  $ 3,000,000  (600, 000^.). 

Near  tbe  N.E.  angle  of  tbe  Common,  on  Beacon  Hill.,  stands 
tbe  *State  House  (PI.  0,3),  an  imposing  building  surmounted  by 
a huge  gilded  dome  (open  to  visitors;  Yiew)  and  preceded  by  a 
Corinthian  portico  and  a flight  of  steps.  The  architect  of  the  orig- 
inal building  facing  Beacon  St.,  of  which  the  general  appearance 
has  been  preserved,  was  Charles  Bulfinch  (1795).  It  was,  however, 
enlarged  in  1853-56 ; and  another  huge  extension,  much  larger  than 
the  original  erection,  was  accomplished  in  1889-98.  The  archi- 
tecturally not  very  successful  new  part  consists  mainly  of  yellow 
brick  with  trimmings  of  white  marble  and  numerous  columns  and 
pilasters.  The  whole  building  is  now  401  ft.  long,  212  ft.  wide, 
and  110  ft.  high  (to  top  of  lantern  on  dome,  150  ft.).  On  the  ter- 
race in  front  are  statues  of  Daniel  Webster  (1782-1852)  and  Horace 
Mann  (1796-1859).  The  dome  is  illuminated  at  night. 

Interior.  We  first  enter  the  Doric  Hall.,  containing  statues  of  Gov. 
Andrew  (by  Ball)  and  George  Washington  (by  Chantrey),  and  various 
historical  relics.  Directly  to  the  N.  is  the  grand  staircase  of  pavonazzo 
marble.  The  twelve  Ionic  columns  of  its  balcony  are  said  to  be  among 
the  finest  in  the  world.  The  painting  on  the  N.  wall  is  by  Robert  Reid. 
Beyond  the  staircase  is  the  handsome  new  ■'^Memorial  Hall  (finished  in 
1900),  above  Mt.  Vernon  St.,  which  contains  a collection  of  flags  carried 
by  Massachusetts  regiments  in  the  Civil  War,  historical  paintings  by 
H.  0.  Walker  (K.  <fe  S.  panels)  and  Edward  Simmons  (E.  & W.  panels),  a 
statue  of  Gen.  Bartlett  by  Dan.  French  (190i),  etc.  — The  Senate  Chamher 
on  the  third  floor  (S.  side),  with  Doric  columns,  is  adorned  with  busts  of 
Washington,  Lincoln,  Sumner,  Franklin,  Lafayette,  and  other  eminent 
men.  — The  Senate  Reception  Room  (S.E.  corner),  of  Ionic  design,  has 
portraits  of  twenty-two  governors.  — House  of  Representatives.,  a hand- 
some elliptical  chamber  (W.  side),  is  finished  in  white  mahogany.  Opposite 
the  Speaker’s  chair,  between  two  columns,  hangs  a codfish,  an  emblem 
of  one  of  the  former  chief  sources  of  the  State’s  prosperity.  — Also  on 
the  W.  side  is  the  Council  Chamber.,  of  the  Corinthian  order.  — At  the  N. 
end  of  the  building  is  the  fine  State  Library  (110,000  vols.),  the  chief  treasure 
of  which  (exhibited  under  glass)  is  the  ‘History  of  the  Plimouth  Plantation’, 
generally  known  as  the  ‘Log  of  the  Mayflower’,  written  with  his  own 


102  Route  5. 


BOSTON. 


Shaw  Monument. 


hand  bv  William  Bradford,  Governor  of  Plymouth  Colony  (1^-1657).  This 
MS  dLoveved  in  London  in  1846,  was  presented  to  Massachusetts  in  1898. 

_ Amone  the  other  fine  apartments  shown  to  visitors  are  the  Governors 
iJoo^and  the  Reading  Rooms  of  the  Senate  and  the  House  of  Representatives. 

On  tlie  E.  side  of  the  new  part  of  the  State  House  a small  park 
has  been  laid  out.  Here,  as  nearly  as  possible  on  the  original  site, 
has  been  erected  (1898)  a reproduction  of  the  Beacon  Monument, 
raised  in  1790  to  commemorate  the  success  of  the  Revolution  and 
removed  in  1812.  The  bronze  tablets  belonged  to  the  first  mon- 
ument Here  also  stand  a statue  of  General  Charles  Devens,  by 
Olin  Warner;  and,  at  the  Beacon  St.  corner,  an  equestrian  statue 
of  Major-General  Joseph  Hooker,  by  D.  0.  French. 

In  Beacon  St.,  opposite  the  State  House,  is  the  beautiful  ^Shaw 
Monument,  by  Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  erected  in  1897  in  honour  of 
Col.  Shaw  and  his  regiment  (the  first  coloured  regiment  raised  in 
the  Civil  War).  This  is  probably  the  first  instance  of  a relief  placed 
as  a monument  by  itself  instead  of  against  a building.  . , 

In  Beacon  St.,  just  below  the  State  House,  sTOod  the  old  Han- 
cock Mansion  (site  indicated  by  a tablet  on  the  balustrade).  The 
intrusion  of  a tall  apartment-building  near  this  point  is  a great 

^ We  now  follow  Beacon  Street  towards  the  N.,  passing  (left),  at 
the  corner  of  Bowdoin  St.,  the  Unitarian  Building  (PI.  C,  3),  the 
headquarters  of  the  American  Unitarian  Association,  opposite  which 
is  the  Congregational  Building  X1898).  Adjoining  the  latter  is  the 
^Boston  Athenaeum  (PI.  2;  C,  3),  an  institution  founded  in  lb07 
and  now  containing  a library  of  210,000  vols.  (open  to  members 
onlyl  — In  Somerset  St.,  which  diverges  to  the  left,  are  the 
general  building  of  Boston  University  Jin.  C,  3), 
departments  of  which  are  attended  by  1300  students,  and  the  New 
England  Historic-  Genealogical  Society,  with  valuable  collections  ot 
books  and  MSS.  (9-5).  Here,  too,  is  the  back  of  the  New  County 
Court  House  (PI.  C,  3),  a massive  granitebuilding  in  the  Herman 
Renaissance  style,  the  front  of  which  facesPemberton  Square  The 
building  is  450  ft.  long.  The  imposing  central  hall  is  adorned  with 
emblematic  figures  by  D.  Mora,  a statue  of  Rufus  Choate  (1799- 
1859)  by  Dan.  French,  etc. 

We  however , proceed  to  the  right , through  School  Street,  in 
which,  ’to  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  Tremont  St.,  stods  Kings 
Chavei  m.  C,  3),  built  in  1754  on  the  site  of  the  first  Episcopalian 
church  of  Boston  (tablet  to  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  inside,  on  the 
N wall)  The  adjoining  burial-ground,  the  oldest  in  Boston,  con- 
tains the  graves  of  Gov.  Winthrop  (1588-1649) 

In  School  St.,  to  the  left,  is  the  City  Hall  (PI.  C,  3),  behind  which 
is  the  Old  Court  House  (PI.  C,  3).  In  front  of  the  City  Hall  are 
statues  of  Franklin  (1708-90),  by  Ore  enough  md  Jo  siah  Quincy 
(1772-1864:  mayor  for  six  years  in  succession),  by  Ball 

School  St.  ends  at  the  large  Old  South  Building  (offices)  in 


Faneuil  Hall. 


BOSTON. 


5.  Route.  103 


Washington  Stkbet  (PI.  C,D,  2-7),  the  most  crowded  thoroughfare 
in  Boston,  with  many  of  the  best  retail-shops.  Following  Washing- 
ton St.  (‘Newspaper  Row’)  to  the  left,  we  soon  reach,  at  the  corner 
of  State  St.,  the  *01d  Sta>te  House  (PI.  C,  3),  an  unpretending  edi- 
fice, dating  from  1748  and  restored  as  far  as  possible  to  its  original 
appearance,  even  to  the  figures  of  the  British  lion  and  unicorn  on 
the  roof. 

Boston  Massacre’  (p.  99)  was  the  result  of  an  encounter  between 
a British  sentry  here  and  the  crowd.  The  rooms,  including  the  old  Coun- 
cil thamoer  and  Hall  of  Representatives  on  the  upper  floor,  contain  a collec- 
tion  of  historical  relics  and  paintings  (9.30-4.30;  free).  On  the  top-floor  is 
the  Curtis  Collection  of  Photographs  of  Ancient  Boston  Buildings.  The 
mam  facts  of  the  building’s  history  are  given  in  appropriate  inscriptions 
ihe  rooms  are  in  the  guardianship  of  the  Bostonian  Society.  — Below 
the  DOiSement  is  b*  station  of  tne  Ectst  Bostofi  Subway . 

Opposite  are  the  Sears  and  the  tall  Ames  Buildings  (good  view 
from  roof). 

State  Street  (PI.  0,  D,  2,3),  the  headquarters  of  financial  life, 
leads  hence  to  the  E.,  past  the  Exchange  Building  (with  the  Stock 
Exchange)  and  other  large  office-buildings , to  the  Custom  House 
(PL  D,  2),  a massive  granite  building  in  the  shape  of  a Greek  cross 
surmounted  by  a dome.  State  St.  ends  at  Atlantic  Ave.  and  Lono 
Wharf  (FI.  2).  ^ 

Wharf  \ a little  farther  to  the  E.,  presents  an  interesting  sight  in 
winter  when  the  fishing-schooners  come  in  covered  with  ice. 

Change  Alley  (now  inappropriately  styled  ‘Avenue’),  diverging 
to  the  left  from  State  St. , leads  to  ^Eaneuil  Hall  (Pi.  0,  2,  3;  open 
9-5),  the  ‘cradle  of  American  liberty’,  originally  built  and  presented 
to  the  city  in  1742,^  by  Peter  Faneuil,  a Huguenot  merchant,  but 
rebuilt  after  a fire  in  1761  and  reconstructed  on  the  original  plan 
in  1898. 

The  Hall  proper,  on  the  upper  floor,  is  76  ft.  square.  It  is  used  for 
public  meetings  and  was  the  scene  of  numerous  important  gathering,?  in 

British  officers  usid  it 
contains  a large  picture  by  Healy  (Webster 
aMiessing  the  Senate)  and  portraits  of  eminent  Americans  (copies).  — 
The  floor  above  the  hall  is  occupied  by  the  Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery  Co 

the  country  (i638;  comp.  Baedeker’s 
London),  with  a military  museum  (open  10-4,  except  Sat.  and  Sun.:  free). 

Adjacent  is,  Quincy  Market  (PI.  C,,J2),  a crowded  and  busy  scene  in  the 

T % ~ Chamber  of  Commerce  (PI.  5;  D,  2),  built 

m lyu.^,  IS  in  India  St. 

Devonshire  Street  leads  to  the  right  (S.)  from  State  St.  to  the 
Government  Building  (PI.  0,  3)  , a huge  edifice  by  Mullet,  in  his 
usual  Mansard-roof  style,  occupying  the  entire  block  between  Milk 
St.,  Devonshire  St.,  Water  St.,  and  Post  Office  Sq.  The  Post  Office 
occupies  the  groundfloor,  the  basement,  and  part  of  the  first  floor 
while  the  rest  of  the  building  is  devoted  to  the  V.  S.  Sub-Treasury 
(19-2)  and  the  U.S.  Courts  (2nd  floor).  The  allegorical  groups  above 
the  main  entrance  are  by  D.  C.  French. 

bv  the^fire^^f^l879  itself  escaped,  adjoins  the  district  destroyed 

y t e fire  of  1872  (p.  99)  and  now  covered  with  substantial  business 


BOSTON.  Old  South  Meeting  House. 


104  Route  5. 

hlork?  The  financial  anarter  is  crowded  into  the  small  territory  hounded 
Milk,  and  Broad  Sts.  (PI  C,  D,  3) ; the  wool  trade  .s  cen- 
tred in  Federal  St..  Atlantic  Ave..  and  the  extension  of  Summer  St  ^ 
ipather  and  hoot  and  shoe  trade  spreads  over  Lincoln  and  ^outh  SU. 

P?  C D 4 and  a?so  part  of  Pearl  St.  (PI.  D,  3)  and  Atlantic  (VLJD 
2,  3);  while  the  wholesale  dry-goods  business  affects 
Franklin.  Chauncy.  Kingston,  and  Bedford  Sts.  4^  ihe  a g 

retail  drv- goods  stores  of  Boston  rank  with  those  of  ^ew  York  (p. 

Amone  the  most  noted  are  the  Jordan-Marsh  Go.,  the  B.  H.  White  Co. 
moving  stairway),  uni.  Shuman  (Washington  St.),  Bolla^  (Boylston  Sh), 
and  mutton  dc  DuUon  (Tremont  St.),  the  Shepard ■ Norwell  Co. 
(Temple  Place),  and  Hovey  (Summer  St.).  ^ ^ , 

In  Post  Office  Square  (PI.  0, 3)  stands  the  Mutual  Life  Insurance 
Building  (view  from  tower-halcony ; key  with  superintendent)^ 

We  now  follow  Milk  Street  (PI.  0,  3),  to  the  W.,  back  to ’Wash- 
ington St  At  the  corner  of  Devonshire  St.,  opposite  the  Post 
Office,  is  the  Equitable  Building.  At  the  corner  of  iVashington  St. 
stands,  perhaps,  the  most  sacred  shrine  in  Boston,  the  ■'Old  South 
Meeting  House  (PI.  15;  C,  3),  built  in  li29  on  the  site  of  an 
earlier  church  of  wood,  which  lay  near  Gov.  Winthrop  s house. 

Beniamin  Franklin  was  baptised  in  the  original  chnrch  in  1TO6,  and 
liere  Judge  Sewall  made  his  confes,sion  of  repentance  for  hi.s  share  in  the 
irit^craft  Elusion  of  1692.  Some  of  the  most  stirring  meelings  of  the 
Sevolntionary  times  were  held  here  and 

Bostonians  who  threw  the  tea  into  the  harbour  in  i™.  ,(PP ‘33,  Ud)  started 
for  their  enterprise.  The  British  turned  it  into  a riding-school  m 1775, 
hut  U was  a&  restored  to  its  sacred  /he  annual 

Sermon  was  delivered  here,  with  few 

It  barely  escaped  the  fire  of  1872  and  was  afterwards  used  for  a short 
limp  nQ‘a  nnqt  office  It  now  helongs  to  a patriotic  society  and  contains 

local  history  are  delivered  in  the  Old  South  in  winter.  ^ 

A tablet  on  a building  farther  on,  nearly  opposite  Boylston  fet. 
(see  belowl,  marks  the  site  of  the  old  Liberty  Tree,  a great  rallying 
point  at  the  time  of  the  Revolution.  ^rr  i,* 

^ Boyuston  Street  (PI.  A-0,  4-7),  diverging  from  Washington 
St.  to  the  right  (W.),  skirts  the  Common  and  Public  Garden  and 
leads  to  the  Back  Bay  (p.  1 10).  To  the  left,  at  the  end  of  Columbus 
Ave.,  a short  distance  from  Boylston  St.,  we  see  the  tower  of  what 
used  to  be  the  Providence  Station  (PI.  C,  4,  5;  now  unoccupied). 
In  front  of  this  building  is  the  Emancipation  Group,  by  Ball ; tne 
negro  is  a portrait  of  Archer  Alexander,  the  last  slave  captured  under 
thi  ‘Fugitive  Slave  Law’  in  Missouri.  — At  the  corner  o^erkeley  St. 
(right)  stands  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  (B^-  ^ ’ 

free  on  Wed.  & Sat.  10-4.30),  with  a library  of  “28,000  vols.  and 
good  zoological,  ornithological,  entomological,  and  mmeralogmal 
collections.  Opposite  is  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Association.  Ad- 
jacent are  the  main  buildings  of  the  *Massacliusetts  Institute  of 
Technology  (Pi.  B,  5),  the  leading  institution  of  the  kind  on  the  M . 
side  of  the  Atlantic  (1600  students  ; fine  apparatus  and  collections). 
— Opposite  is  the  large  Brunswick  Hotel  (p.  95).  _ ...  ... 

Boylston  St.  now  reaches  *Coplbv  Sotabe  (PI.  B,  o),  whmh 
offers  perhaps  the  finest  architectural  group  in  Boston,  including 


Public  Library. 


BOSTON. 


5.  Route.  105 


Trinity  Cliurch,  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts , the  Public  Library, 
the  Second  Church  (Unitarian),  and  the  New  Old  South  Church. 


^'Trinity  Church  (PI.  B,  5),  on  the  E.  side  of  the  square,  the 
masterpiece  of  H.  H.  Richardson  and  a typical  example  of  ‘Richard- 
sonian’ architecture,  is  deservedly  regarded  as  one  of  the  finest 
buildings  in  America.  It  was  practically  completed  in  1877  at  a 
cost  of  $ 800,000  (160, 000^.)  ; the  two  W.  towers  and  the  admirable 
carving  of  the  porch  (by  Cairns  and  Mora)  date  from  18'96-98.  Its 
style  may  be  described  as  a free  treatment  of  the  Romanesque  of 
Central  France  (Auvergne). 

The  building  is  in  the  form  of  a Latin  cross,  surmounted  bv  a 
massive  central  - Tower,  210  ft.  high,  suggested  by  the  lantern  of  the  Old 
Cathedral  of  Salamanca  (see  Baedeker''^  Spain).  The  interior  is  verv 
elaborately  decorated  by  La  Farge.  The  =^=Stained-glass  Windows  include 
fine  specimens  of  La  Farge,  Burne  Jones  and  William  Morris,  Henry  Holi- 
day, and  Clayton  & Bell.  It  is  interesting  to  compare  the  painted  Eng- 
lish windows  with  La  Farge’s  work,  in  which  only  the  faces  and  hands 
are  painted,  the  rest  being  in  coloured  glass.  Near  the  chancel  are  bus^s 
at  Bean  Stanley  (1815-81)  and  of  the  Rev.  Phillips  Brooks  (d.  1893:  by  D C 
French),  late  Bishop  of  Massachusetts  and  rector  of  Trinity  Church  for 
22  years.  The  adjacent  Chapel  is  connected  with  the  church  bv  very 
effective  open  cloisters,  in  which  is  preserved  the  tracerv  from  a window 
ol  the  ancient  church  of  St.  Botolph,  Boston,  England.  * 


Tile  ^Public  Library  (PI.  B,  5),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  square,  de- 
signed by  McKim,  Mead,  & White  and  erected  in  1888-95,  is  a digni- 
fied and  imposing,  simple  and  scholarly  edifice,  which  forms  a 
worthy  mate  to  its  vis-a-vis.  Trinity  Church.  Its  style  is  that  of  the 
Roman  Renaissance.  It  is  228  ft.  long,  225  ft.  wide,  and  68  ft.  high 
(to  the  cornice),  and  encloses  an  open  court,  140ft.  long  and  100  ft. 
wide.  The  total  cost,  exclusive  of  the  site,  was  $ 2,486,000.  The 
library  is  open  to  the  public,  9 a.m.  to  10  p.m.  in  winter  (summer 
till  9 p.m. : Sun.  2 to  9 or  10).  It  is  the  largest  free  library  in  the 
circulating  1,464,037  vols.  for  home  use 

in  1903. 


Exteeiok.  Among  the  chief  features  of  the  exterior  are  the  reliefs 
oyer  the  mam  entrance  (arms  of  the  Library,  City,  and  State;  by  Augvsius 
m.  Gaudens),  the  medallions  below  the  cornice  representing  the  book- 
marks of  famous  printers,  and  the  inscribed  names  of  eminent  men.  The 
p atiorm  in  front  of  the  entrance  is  to  be  embellished  with  two  groups 
of  statues  by  A.  St.  Qaudens. 

Tne  ' jnteriok  is  excellently  arranged  and  equipped  and  affords  ac- 
commoaation  for  a million  volumes.  The  Vestibule,  of  Knoxville  marble, 
contains  a statue  cf  Sir  Harry  Vane  (1612-62),  by  Macmonnies.  — The  Entrance 
Hall  has  a floor  of  white  marble,  inlaid  with  brass.  Overhead  are  commem- 
orated several  eminent  Bostonians.  - The  corridor  to  the  right  leads  to 
Room  (350  papers  in  all  languages)  and  the  Periodical 
Reading  (where  about  1400  periodicals  are  displayed),  the  Patent 

Library,  and  the  Department  of  Statistics.  — The  left  corridor  leads  to  the 
_ From  the  Entrance  Hall  a superb  marble  ^•‘Staircase, 
ff  ^ ' embellished  with  figures  of  lions,  in  Siena  marble,  bv  Louis 
St.  Oaudens,  ascends  io  the  first  floor.  Its  windows  overlook  the  ^^Central 
arcade,  and  open-air  walk,  to  which  readers 
may  resorUn  hot  weather,  ihe  panels  of  the  staircase-hall  contain  "Paintings 
" (l^^^^nnes,  representing  the  Muses  greeting  the  Genius  of 
Enlightenment  and  figures  of  Philosophy,  Physics,  History,  Epic  Poetry,  etc. 


BOSTON.  Museum  of  Fine  Arts. 


106  Route  6. 

It  is  instructive  to  compare  tlae  effectiveness  of  these  vrorks  from  the  hand 
of  an  expert  with  the  comparative  failure  of  some  of  the  wall-paintings 
unstairs  executed  by  artists  whose  well-deserved  fame  is  not  based  on 
decorative  painting.  — On  the  first  floor  is  ^Bates  Hall  (so  called  in  honour 
of  an  early  benefactor  of  the  library,  a member  of  the  firm  of  Baring  Bros.), 
the  great  general  reading-room,  which  is  2171/2  ft.  long,  42i/2  ft.  wide,  and 
50  ft  high  — To  the  right  is  the  Delivery  Room^  adorned  by  not  very 
perspicuous  scenes  illustrating  the  Quest  of  the  Holy  Grail,  by  Edwin 
A.  Abley.  The  books,  which  are  kept  in  huge  stacks,  are  expeditiously  trans- 
ferred to  this  room  by  ingenious  mechanical  appliances.  — To  the  left  are 
the  Childrens  Rooms  (one  with  effective  ceiling  decoration  by  John  Elliott) 
and  the  Lecture  Hall,  — We  now  ascend  to  the  second  floor,  passing  a small 
balcony  overlooking  Bates  Hall.  Sargent  Hall  is  adorned  with  somewhat 
complicated  frescoes  by  John  S.  Sargent,  the  meaning  of  which  may  be 
deciphered  with  the  aid  of  keys  provided  for  the  purpose.  The  ^luable 
special  collections  of  the  library  housed  on  this  floor  include  the  Ticknor 
Collection  of  Spanish  and  Portuguese  Books,  the  Barton  Library  (with 
one  of  the  finest  existing  collections  of  Shakspeariana,  including  bom  the 
early  folios  and  the  early  quartos),  the  Bowditch  Mathematical  Library, 
the  Prince  Library  (MSS.  and  early  New  England  books,  including  two 
copies  of  the  Bay  Psalm  Book  (see  p.  46),  and  Eliot  s Indian  Bible,  lob3-80), 
the  Barlow  Library  (Americana^  including  a Latin  copy  of  letter  of 
Columbus  to  the  King  and  Queen  of  Spain  in  1493),  the  John  Adams  Library 
f2800  vols.),  the  Franklin  Collection,  the  collection  of  works  on  early 
American  history,  the  John  A.  Lewis  Library  (including  many  early  books 
printed  in  Boston),  the  Galatea  Library  (books  on  the  history  of  women), 
the  Codman  Library  (works  on  landscape  gardening),  the  Artz  Library  of 
American  first  editions,  and  the  Tosti  Collection  of  Engravings.  Ihe 
Allen  A.  Brown  Library  of  Music  (9189  vols.)  occupies  a separate  room. 
Another  is  devoted  to  Art,  where  rare  and  illuminated  MSS.  are  sometimes 
exhibited. 

The  Second  Church  (PI.  B,  S'),  rebuilt  on  its  present  site  on  the 
N.  side  of  Copley  Sq.  in  1873-74,  was  the  church  of  the  three 
Mathers  (p.  Ill)  and  of  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  (1829-32). 

The  ^Museum  of  Pine  Arts  (PI.  B,  5),  on  the  S.  side  of  Copley 
Sq.,  a somewhat  restless  piece  of  architecture,  of  red  brick,  with 
terracotta  details,  contains  some  valuable  collections  (open  daily 
9-5,  Mon.  12-5,  Sun.  1-5;  adm.  25  c.,  free  on  Sat.  & Sun. ; Catalogue 
of  (ireek  & Roman  Casts  50  c. ; Manual  of  Italian  Renaissance  Sculp- 
ture, 1904,  50  c.;  Guide  to  the  Perkins  Collection  of  Coins  25  c.). 
Director,  Mr.  Edward  Robinson.  In  1903  the  total  number  of  visitors 
was  295,  416.  — New  building,  see  p.  110. 

The  Ground  Floor  is  largely  devoted  to  an  extensive  and  excellent  collec- 
tion of  Casts,  chronologically  arranged  and  surpassed  in  importance  by  those 
of  Berlin,  Dresden,  and  Strassburg  only.  — The  room  immediately  to  the 
left  of  the  entrance  contains  Greek  and  Roman  Sculptures,  mainly  acquired 
with  the  bequest  of  Mrs.  Perkins  and  the  Henry  L-  Pierce  fund  By  the 
walls,  to  the  left:  *Hermes  (torso  and  head);  marble  head  of  Hercules, 
probably  a copy  of  a type  by  Lysippus ; ’'=Torso^of  a goddess,  an  original 
Greek  work:  *Ideal  Greek  head  (ca.  380  B.C.)*,  "^Head  of  Augustus;  Head 
of  Alexander  the  Great ;- Roman  portrait-head  of  Corbulo ; Young  Apollo, 
marble  statue,  the  arms  wanting,  the  feet  restored  (probably  a Roman  copy 
of  a Greek  original)-.  Archaic  lion  in  red  sandstone ; head  m a GreeK  p.jei 


in  the  form  of  a vase.  Here  also  are  a magnificent  ’''■'•^ead  of  Homer  and 
a group  of  Leda  and  the  Swan  (5th-4th  cent.  B.C.).  — The  small  room  ad- 


Musemn  of  Fine  Arts,  BOSTON. 


5.  Route.  107 


joining  contains  the  *Francis  Bartlett  Collection  of  Greek  marbles  bronzes 
terracottas,  etc.,  every  object  in  which  merits  careful  inspection.’  The  fol- 
lowing may  be  selected  for  special  attention  (by  the  walls,  to  the  left): 
the  lower  half  of  a draped  female  figure,  probably  a Greek  work  of  the 
4th  cent.  B C.  ^ the  interesting  little  figure  of  a Weeping  Siren,  originally 
part  of  a gravestone  decoration;  the  beautiful  ’==Head  of  Aphrodite  evi- 
belongmg  to  the  School  of  Praxiteles,  and  dating  not  later  than 
the  4th  cent.  B C.  In  the  middle:  fragment  of  a Mounted  Amazon,  early 
4th  cent.  B.C  ; fragmentary  -Figure  of  a seated  woman,  of  later  period  than 
the  other  sculptures.  The  "Louter,  or  bath-basin,  in  a small  case  by  itself 
It  unique  example  of  archaic  Greek  bronze-work  of 

the  bth  cent.  B.C.  There  are  also  wall-cases  with  vases,  terracottas,  small 
bronzes,  coins,  etc.,  and  large  amphorae  on  stands.  — Passing  through  the 
room  ^ the  E.,  containing  Italian  Renaissance  casts,  we  reach  the  jffall  of 
Greek  Vases,  containing  a historical  series,  with  many  of  remarkable  qual- 
ity. The  two  long  centre-cases  contain  ^Masterpieces  of  Greek  Pottery 
by  itself  (S.E.  corner)  is  a fine  Athenian  ^^Cratera  (cL* 
470  B.C.),  with  scenes  from  the  Trojan  War.  The  wall-case  at  the  S.  end 
is  provided  with  handles  for  revolving  the  vases.  Against  the  S.  wall  is 
a reproduction  of  the  Erechtheum.  - The  long  S.  corridor  which  we  now 
enter  contains  Gfeek  and  Roman  Casts.  — We,  however,  immediately  enter 
to  the  W.  of  the  Hall  of  Greek  Vases,  the  Greek  Metal  Room.  The  cases 
windows  contain  collections  of  Greek  and  Etruscan  Mirrors  and 
Gold  Ornaments  (including  the  famous  -Cameo,  the  Nuptials  of  Cupid  and 
Isyche,  from  the  Marlborough  Collection).  By  the  walls  are  a bronze  sta- 
tuette of  Hercules  : bronze  head  of  Arsinoe(?);  painted  Greek  gravestone 
(under  glass;  ca.  400  B.C.).  ^ In  the  centre  are  floor-cases  containing  sta- 
tuettes and  other  small  objects,  and  a valuable  collection  of  * Coins.  In 
a small  case  by  itself  at  the  S.  end  of  the  central  row  is  a Greek  Bronze 
Amphora  with  stand,  dating  from  the  5th  cent.  B.C.  — To  the  N of  the 
Greek  Metal  Room  is  the  room  of  Greek  Terracottas.  On  the  right  as  we 
enter,  is  a wall-case  of  iridescent  glass.  The  clever  modern  forgeries  of 
Tanagra  figurines,  in  the  fipt  floor-case  to  the  left,  are  worth  noticing.  The 
next  cases  contain  small  miscellaneous  objects  from  South  Italy  and  from 
Greece  proper.  In  the  centre  floor-cases  is  an  important  collection  of 
Aretme  Ware,  ranking  second  among  the  world’s  collections.  Farther  on 
are  Etruscan  Sarcophagi  and  Cypriote  Antiquities.  In  the  extension  to  the  W. 
are  the  terracottas  that  give  the  room  its  name.  To  the  left  are  cases 
containing  Greek  figurines,  chiefly  from  Tanagra  (in  one  case  are  28  small 
figures  of  Eros);  to  the  right,  cases  of  figurines  from  Asia  Minor,  chiefly 
trom  Myriii^  In  a small  glass-case  in  the  centre  is  a statuette  of  Aphro- 
dite, after  Praxiteles.  The  cases  under  the  window  contain  terracotta 
fi;agments  and  Roman  Glass.  — We  now  return  through  the 
Metal  Room  to  the  corridor  of  Greek  and  Roman  Casts,  and  from  its  W 
end  pa^s  into  the  room  containing  Casts  from  the  Parthenon.  — The  door 
io  the  N.\\  lea-ls  into  a small  room  containing  Greek  and  Roman  Casts, 
and  Bronzes.  — The  next  three  rooms,  in  the  N.W.  corner  of  the 
building,  contain  Greek  Casts.  — Passing  though  the  room  of  Egyptian  and 
’^Priest’s  Robe  of  leather,  from  Thebes  in  Egypt 
B-a.  IDUU  B.C.),  should  be  noticed,  we  again  reach  the  entrance-hall.  — The 
two  rooms  iinmediately  to  the  right  of  the  staircase  contain  Egyptian  An- 
(incluihng  m^y  fine  specimens  from  the  Egypt  Exploration  Fund). 

In  the  Enhance  Hall,  at  either  side  of  the  staircase,  are  two  valuable 
specimens  of  Boucher.  — On  the  walls  of  the  staircase  hang  the  Mosque 
ot  tue  Great  Moguls  at  Delhi,  by  Verestschagin,  and  Belshazzar’s  Feast,  by 
Washington  Allston.  — In  the  Upper  Hall  are  some  interesting  marbles ’and 
broi^es  by  Auguste  Rodin,  including  a bust  of  Ceres. 

Floor.  The  E.  side  contains  the  Collection  of  Paintings,  many  of 
which  are  on  loan  and  frequently  changed.  — Turning  to  the  right  at  the 

FmsT  PiCTUKB  Gallery,  which 
To  the  left  of  the  entrance:  Vivarini, 
hfs  of  a woman;  Rembrandt,  ^'Study  of 

his  father,  Danae,  and  -Portraits  of  a man  apd  his  wife ; Rubens,  Marriage 


BOSTON.  Museum  of  Fine  Arts. 


108  Route  5. 


of  St.  Catliarine,  study  for  the  altar-piece  in  the  Augustine  Church,  Antwerp ; 
Jac.  van  Rtiysdael,  Landscape;  P.  de  ffoogh,  Interior ; W.  van  de  Velde,,  Sea- 
piece-  N.  Maas.  Jealous  husband;  Metsu,  Usurer;  Hals,  Portrait  of  a lady  ; 
Teniers  Butcher’s  shop;  Van  der  Weyden,  ’*=St.  Luke  drawing  the  Madonna: 
Flemish  School,  "Madonna  and  Child;  Crivelli,  Pieta;  Wohlgemuth,  Death  of 
the  Virgin-  Moroni,  Portrait;  Velazquez,  *Don  Balthazar  Carlos  and  his 
dwarf;  Ferowesg,  Justice ; Piftera,  Philosopher.  The  door  to  the  right  leads 
to  the' Print  Rooms  (see  belew);  that  in  front  to  the  — 

Allston  Room  (American  School),  which  contains  works  by  Washington 
Allston,  Gilbert  Stuart,  Copley,  Trumbull,  Benjamin  West,  etc.  The  un- 
finished portrait  of  Washington  is  one  of  the  three  portraits  of  Washington 
painted  by  Stuart  from  life.  Martha  Washington  and  Washington  at  Dor- 
chester Heights  are  also  by  Stuart.  There  are  many  other  interesting 

port^^^s.r^^^^^  Gallery  contains  at  present  chiefly  works  of  the 

Early  English  and  French  Schools.  On  a stand  in  the  centre  are  Tue 
Slave-ship  and  another  landscape,  by  Turner.  On  another  stand  are  portraits 
by  Greuze  (the  ‘Chapeau  Blanc’)  and  Goya,  a still-life  piece  by  Chardin, 
and  a masquerade  by  Hogarth.  On  the  walls  hang  specimens  of  Reynolds, 
Lawrence,  Richard  Wilson,  Constable,  and  Nattier,  and  an  original  portrait 
of  Franklin,  by  Duplessis  (formerly  ascribed  to  Greuze). 

The  Fourth  and  Fifth  Picture  Galleries  contain  Modern  Works,  in- 
cluding specimens  of  Corot,  Regnault,  Elihu  Vedder,  Brush,  Thayer,  Whistler 
(‘Little  Rose’,  ‘The  Blacksmith’,  aod  two  others),  Rousseau,  Troyon,  Meissonier, 
Millet,  Delacroix,  UHermiite,  G6r6me,  Diaz,  Degas,  Monet,  Duprd,  Decamps, 
Couture,  Daubigny,  Winslow  Homer,  Alexander,  Dennis  BunJcer,  Inness,  etc. 
We  now  reach  the  — . ^ m ^ ^ 

Southern  Corridor,  which  contains  a few  Paintings,  Illuminated 
MSS.,  Japanese  Armour,  ^Paintings,  and  Prints  (often  changed),  the  highly 
valuable  --Morse  Collection  of  Japanese  Pottery  (the  finest  in  existence)  and 
Japanese  Wood  Carvings.  [By  far  the  larger  part  of  the  Japanese  paintings, 
prints,  and  designs  are  stored  away  downstairs,  where  they  are  accessible 
to  students.]  — From  the  other  end  of  the  corridor  we  enter  the  — 

Japanese  Room,  containing  fine  collections  of -Japanese  Bronzes,  Enamels, 

- Lacquer  Work,  Weapons,  Ivory  and  Wood  Carvings,  Gold  and  Silver  Orna- 
ments, etc.  A case  in  this  room  contains  the  largest  crystal  ball  in  the 
world  (Japanese).  — The  N.W.  door  leads  to  the  — 

Metal  Room,  containing  Chinese  Bronzes,  Chinese  and  Japanese  Pewter 
Vessels,  Oriental  Arms  and  Metal  Work,  etc.  — The  — 

Coin  Room,  which  opens  to  the  right,  contains  collections  ot  toms. 
Electrotype  Reproductions  of  Coins,  Gold  and  Silver  Ware,  Watches,  Rings, 
Fans,  etc.  — The  — . 

Pottery  and  Porcelain  Room,  entered  from  the  Metal  Room,  contains 
extensive  collections  of  Majolica,  Fayence,  Sevres  and  English  China,  Indian 
and  Mexican  Pottery,  German  and  Venetian  Glass,  Chinese  and  Japanese  Porcelain, 
Enamels,  etc.  A case  at  the  S.  end  contains  a good  collection  of  jade 
ornaments.  — The  first  door  to  the  right  leads  to  the  — 

Lawrence  Room,  fitted  up  with  carved  oak  of  the  l7th  cent,  and 
containing  some  old  cabinets.  It  is  adjoined  by  the  Room  of  Wood 
Carving,  in  which,  in  four  floor-cases  to  the  right,  is  also  the  '’Buffum 
Collection  of  Amber,  from  which  we  enter  the  — . _ . , , 

Textile  Gallery,  containing  Gobelins,  Beauvais,  Flemish,  and  other 
tapestry,  Italian  embroideries,  laces,  etc.  The  standards  display  a selection 
of  Textiles,  changed  every  few  months,  from  the  textile  collection  in  the 
basement.  — We  have  now  made  the  circuit  of  the  building  and  regained 
the  hall  at  the  head  of  -the  staircase.  ^ 

The  three  Print  Rooms  (see  above)  contain  varying  selections  ot 
Prints  and  Engravings,  a visitors’  guide  to  which  is  hung  on  the  walls. 
The  Museum  now  possesses  about  70,000  prints.  The  Third  Print  Room 
is  adjoined  by  the  -”  , ... 

Room  of  Water-Colours  and  Drawings,  communicating  with  the  i itth 
Picture  Gallery  (see  above),  among  the  contents  of  which  are  21  drawings 
and  water-colours  by  /.  F.  Millet  and  27  water-colours  by  Wm.  Blake. 


Commonwealth  Ave. 


BOSTON. 


5.  Route.  109 


In  the  Attic  are  rooms  occnpied  by  the  School  of  Drawing  and  Painting 
otMeftileTnft^r'n*^,’?®  I^*rary  and  many  thousand  specimens 

and  designers  nationalities,  arranged  for  the  use  ot  students 

h^  Church  (PI.  B,  6),  so  called  as  the  successor 

of  the  Old  Sooth  Church  (p  104),  is  a floe  building  in  an  Italian 
Gothic  style,  with  a tower  248  ft.  in  height.  It  was  built  in  1874-75. 
The  marbles  and  ornamental  stone-work  are  fine. 

Among  other  noteworthy  buildings  in  this  part  of  the  citv  aro  th^ 

"The^^o/  (PI  l^ewbury  and  DartmLth  Sts. 

St'  Vcndcme  (FJ.  a,  B5;  p.  95),  at  the  corner  of  Dartmouth 

Boston  At/iletic  Assodaiion  (PI.  B,  5: 
p.  98),  Exeter  St. ; the  Umversiip  Clnb(Pl.  21;  A 5),  Beacon  St  • tho 

Medic  fjcnool  (Pl.B  5;pp  110  Vatfhe^oVni  o^^^^^ 

&ts.  (to  be  removed  to  ihe  Back  Bay  Fens);  the  ‘Pirst  Saptisi  Church 
( . ,5),  at  the  corner  of  Clarendon  St.  and  Commonwealth  Ave  generallv 

brn  VB?chfr7.n  building  with  a Florentine  tower 

ina  ® Berkeley  St.,  a beauliful  buildl 

p ®^^^»ed-g]ass  windows;  the  *Firs^  Church  ( Unitarian;  PI  0 B 51 

Berkeley  St.,  cor  of  Marlborough  St.,  with  tablets  in  memcrv  of  its  four 
funders  (unveiled  in  1903)  and  an  old  silver  chalice  given  bV  covernoi 
^^^7  in  i633;  Emmanuel  Church  (PI.  B,  5),  New- 

FTTP^Pr  (PI.  B,  5),  at  the  corner  of  Newbury  and 

(Pi'  B Newbury  St. ; the  E^ritual 

ir  ihc^'  y • ’ % • ^ corner  of  Newbury  and  Exeter  Sts. : Church 

at  the  corner  of  Norway  and  Falmouth  St*!  • 
La  F^ee  at’^r?  ‘PI'  6),  with  a good  memorianrndow 

Ea  h arge,  at  the  corner  ot  Beacon  St.  and  Massachusetts  Ave.  ^ 

Huntington  Avenue  (PI.  B,  5-7),  which  diverges  to  the  left  from 
Boylston  St.  at  Copley  Sq.,  also  contains  many  important  buildings, 
r XI  ^ beyond  the  railway,  is  the  huge  building 

ol  the  Massachusetts  Charitable  Mechanic  Association,  usually  known 
as  Mechanics’  Hall  (PI.  B,  6;  p.  97).  A little  way  farther  on,  on  the 
same  side,  is  the  New  Century  Building,  containing  Potter  Hall 

Chickering  Hall  (Pi.  B 6- 
^ arcaded  front.  Thi.s  is  adjoined  by  the  handsome 

Horticultural  Hall  {PI.  B,  7;  p.  97),  at  the  corner  of  Massachusetts 
opposite  corner  is  the  imposing  Symphony  Hall  (PI,  B,  7- 
+1  1900.  At  the  corner  of  Gainsborough  St.,  to  the  left’ 

IS  the  New  England  Conservatory  of  Music  (PI.  8,  B 7;  2000  pupilsV 
which  includes  Jordan  Hall  (p.  97),  one  of  the  finest  concert-halls 
in  America.  Opposite  is  PaQ  Children  s Hospital.  Still  farther  out, 
to  the  left,  IS  the  Medical  ^ Dental  School  of  Tufts  College  (p.  151). 
u 1 Avenue  (PI. A,  B,  4-6),  which  runs  parallel  with 

Boylston  St,  is  one  of  the  finest  residence-streets  in  America  with 
Its  double  row  of  trees  and  handsome  houses.  It  is  240  ft.  wide  and 
IS  ^orned  with  statues  of  Alex.  Hamilton  (Pl.B,  4;  1757-1804- 
by  Eimmer),  John  Glover  (Pl.B,  6;  1732-97;  by  Milmore),  miliarii 
Lloyd  Garrison  (PI.  B,  5;  1805-79;  by  Warner),  and  Zeif  Eric- 
Norsemen  who  are  supposed  to  have  landed 
WhUney)"^  * (P-  115)  in  the  11th  cent.  (PI.  A,  6;  by  Miss 


110  Routed. 


BOSTON. 


Back  Bay. 


^Beacon  Street  (PI.  A-C,  3-6),  beginning  on  Beacon  Hill,  skirting 
tbe  N.  side  of  the  Common,  and  then  running  parallel  with  Com- 
monwealth Ave.,  is  the  aristocratic  street  of  Boston  par  excellence. 
Its  hack-windows  command  a fine  view  of  the  Charles  E-iver.  No.  296 
was  the  home  of  Dr.  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes. 


The  Back  Bay  (PI.  A,  B,  4-6),  the  fashionable  W.  end  district 
traversed  by  the  above-named  streets,  was  at  the  beginning  of  the 
19th  century  occupied  by  dreary  mud-flats,  salt-marshes,  and  water, 
and  its  reclamation  was  a work  of  immense  toil  and  expense  (comp, 
p.  99).  The  *Back  Bay  Fens  (PI.  A,  7)  have  been  skilfully  laid  out 
by  the  late  F.  L.  Olmsted  on  the  site  of  the  unsightly  swamps  which 
formerly  lay  here  and  form  the  first  link  in  the  splendid  chain  of  parks 
and  boulevards,  of  which  Franklin  Park  is  the  chief  ornament  (comp, 
p.  111).  The  chief  entrances  to  the  Fens  are  marked  by  a Gateway 
(Westland  Ave.)  and  a Fountain  (Hemenway  St.);  and  at  the  end  of 
Boylston  St.  is  a fine  memorial  of  John  Boyle  O'Reilly  (1844-90), 
by  D.  C.  French.  The  quarter  adjoining  the  Fens  promises  to  be 
one  of  the  finest  in  the  city  and  various  important  public  and  private 
buildings  have  already  been  erected  or  planned.  Among  these  are 
the  Somerset  Hotel  (p.  94),  at  the  corner  of  Commonwealth  Ave.  and 
Charles  Gate  East ; the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society  (PI.  A,  6 ; 
interesting  relics  and  valuable  library),  at  the  corner  of  Boylston  St. 
and  the  Fenway;  the  Boston  Medical  Library  (PI.  A,  7),  in  the  Fen- 
way, adjoining  the  last.  Considerably  farther  out,  at  the  corner  of 
Huntington  Ave.  and  Wigglerworth  St.,  is  the  extensive  site  to  be 
occupied  by  the  new  buildings  of  the  Harvard  Medical  School 
various  hospitals  in  connection  with  it.  Near  this,  between  Hunting- 
ton  Ave.  and  the  Back  Bay  Park,  is  the  site  of  the  new  building  of  the 
Museum  of  Fine  Arts  (p.  106),  while  at  the  corner  of  the  Fenway  and 
Worthington  St.  (PI.  I ; C,  6)  is  Simmons  Hall,  a college  for  women. 
At  the  opposite  corner  of  Worthington  St.  is  — 

Fenway  Court,  the  residence  of  Mrs.  John  L.  Gardner,  an  at- 
tractive building  in  a Venetian  style,  enclosing  a courtyard  and  in- 
corporating many  original  balconies,  windows,  and  other  details 
brought  from  Italy.  It  contains  the  choicest  ^Collection  of  Art  in 
America,  which  is  open  to  the  public  from  time  to  time  (dates  and 
tickets,  price  $ 1,  obtained  only  atHerrick’s,Copley  Sq.).  Catalogue25c. 

Among  tbe  most  notable  works  in  the  collection  are  th^  following : 


♦Rape  "of 'Europa,  painted  for  Philip  il.  of  Spain,  afterwards  in  Lord 
Darnley’s  collection  at  Cobham  Hall,  and  described  by  Rubens  as  the  first 
picture  in  the  world’  ^ Anne  of  Austria  and  her  mother.  — Paolo  ^ronese^ 
♦Coronation  of  Hebe  (ceiling-painting);  Giorgione  (after  Bellini),  Head  ot 
Christ:  Andrea  del  Sarto  G),  Bandinelli,  the  sculptor;  Cellini,  BvojizQ  bust 
of  Bindo  Altoviti  (from  the  Palazzo  Altoviti 'at  Rome);  A.  Mantegna  ft), 
♦Madonna  and  Child,  with  saints  ; Fior.  di  Lorenzo,  Annunciation  ; Pesellino, 
Love  & Death,  Labour  <fe  Time  (two  panels);  Moroni,  Portrait; 

*St.  George;  Paris  Bordone,  Christ  in  the  Temple;  Mutteo  Civitale,  Madonna 


North  End. 


BOSTON. 


5.  Noute.  Ill 

and  Child  (terracotta  gro«p).  Ruhens,  Thom  as  Howard,  EarlofArundel- 
"I  ’ 22,  Storm  on  the  Sea  of  GaHle^ 

Landscape  ^Portraits  of  a husband  and  wife  (1633);  Van  Z)ycA:  So-called 
Duchess  of  Ossuna;  AZ&rec7i^  i)z7rer,  Portrait:  Holbein,  'Sir  William  and 
Lady  Putts;  Ant.  Moro  (Szr  Anthony  More)^  ^'Queen  Mary  I.  of  England- 
Mn  van  der  Meer  Concevf,  Terhvrg,  Music-lesson;  Scholgauer,  Madonna 
Colmar);  ■ Degas,  Woman  in  black  (18^7)  — The 
beautiful  Central  Court  also  contains  many  interesting  works  of  art. 

*Eranklin  Park  is  520  acres  in  extent  and  lies  in  W.  Roxbury 
(reached  by  electric  car).  Its  natural  beauties  were  skilfully  taken 
advantage  of  by  the  late  Frederick  Law  Olmsted,  and  many  of  its 
drives  and  walks  are  very  beautiful  (park-carriages  25  c.  each).  The 
park  includes  a public  golf-course,  tennis  grounds,  a toboggan-chute 
(in  winter),  etc.  Extensive  view  from  the  Overlook. 

Tbe  PcBLic  Park  System  of  Boston  is  almost  unique.  The  Citv  Park 
System,  with  a total  area  of  2400  acres,  forms  an  almost  unbroLn  fin^  of 
Public  Garden  (p.  100)  to  City  Point  in 
Boston  Harbour  (p.  114).  The  main  units  in  this  system  (Franklin  Park  etc  ) 
form various  pages  of  the  Handbook.  The  Metropolitan  ^y.^tlm 
forming  an  outer  line  of  parks,  has  an  area  of  11  000  acres  in cludS 
wooded  reservations  (Blue  Hills,  p.  116,  and  Middlesex  Fellf 
(inportant  beaches  (Revere  Beach,  p.  119  and  Hanta«ket  Beach’ 
boating  section  of  the  Charles  River  (comp,  p 116)  When 

Boston,  embracing  the  site  of 
Copp  s mu  (p.  98),  now  one  of  the  poorer  districts  and  occupied 
mainly  by  foreigners,  contains  some  points  of  considerable  his- 
torical interest.  The  Copp’s  Hill  Burial  Ground  (PI.  0,  2-  key 
ept  by  sexton;  see  notice  on  gate),  dating  from  1660,  contains 

fPi  n n o ^^Jacent,  in  Salem  St.,  is  Christ  Church 

V ^ adm.,  including  view  from  tower,  25  c.),  the  oldest 
c urch  now  standing  in  the  city  (1723),  on  the  steeple  of  which  the 

displayed  on 

April  Ittth  1775,  to  warn  the  country  of  the  march  of  the  British 
troops  to  Lexington  and  Concord  (p.  146).  Between  Copp’s  Hill 

^orth  End  Park  (PI.  C,  1). 
Nor^  Square  (Pi.  C,  2)  is  the  centre  of  what  is  known  as  ‘Little  Italy’. 

famous  for  its  Charitable  Institutions.  The 
for  the  Blind,  in  South  Boston  (p.  88),  indissolubly  asso- 
be't'LTwn  Bridgman  and  HeiL  Killer,  ^ one  of  ^ 

ors  admitted  o^Tburs  U a 

‘he  Eve  A Ear  Infirmary  (Pl.B  31  the  o7j 
^^yBomtal  (Pl.D,?);  the  i Cp.7ai1 

Jamaica  Plain  "fn  tlie  Kindergarten  for  the  Blind,  in 

amaica  Flam  (p.  116);  and  the  Homeopathic  Hospital  (PI.  12-  D 7)  Th^ 

or  Bost^'m institutions  are  mainly  on  the  harbour  islands  (p.H5) 


112  Route  5. 


CAMBRIDGE. 


Harvard  tJniv. 


Church  oftheAdvent  (PI.  Brimmer  St.  (Mgh-cliurchEpis.;  good  music); 

the  Bovs^  English  High  <Sc  Latin  School  (PI.  4;  C,6),  between  Montgomery  St. 
and  Warren  Ave.  (the  oldest  school  in  the  United  States,  dating  from  1635, 
and  the  largest  building  for  public  school  purposes  in  the  country);  the 
GirW  awh&  Latin  School  (PI.  10;  C,6),  W.  Newton  St.;  ihe^Armoury  of  the 
First  Corps  of  Cadets  (PI.  C,  5);  the  Tremont  Building^  at  the  corner  of  Beacon 
and  Tremont  Sts.  (view  from  upper  stories);  the  Youth's  Companion  Building 
(PI  22;  0,5),  at  the  corner  of  Columbus  Ave.  and  Berkeley  St.;  the  Pope 
Manufacturing  Co.'s  Building  (PI.  IT;  C,  5),  adjoining  the  last;  the  Masonic 
Temple  (1898),  at  the  corner  of  Tremont  and  Boylston  Sts.  (PI.  C,  4) ; the 
Tremont  Temple  (PI.  C,  3),  with  its  curious  facade  and  a large  hall  used  as 
a free  Baptist  church  and  for  other  purposes  ; the  Charleshank  (PI.  A,  B,  2,  3), 
a small  park,  with  open-air  gymnasia  and  playgrounds;  and  the  Marine  Park 
at  South  Boston  (band  on  Sun.  evening  in  summer),  with  a statue  of  Adm. 
Farragut  (by  H.  H.  Kitson),  public  bath-houses,  and  two  large  piers,  one 
of  which  leads  to  Castle  Island  (p.  115).  A tablet  on  a building  at  the  corner 
of  Pearl  St.  and  Atlantic  Ave.  (PI.  D,  3),  marks  the  site  of  Griffins  Wharf, 
the  scene  of  the  Boston  tea-party  (p.  104).  The  statues  not  yet  mentioned 
include  those  of  Samuel  Adams  (p.  99),  by  Miss  Whitney,  in  Adams  bq. 
(PI.  C 3);  Gov.  Winthrop  (p.  99),  at  the  corner  of  Berkeley  and  Marlborough 
Sts  (PI  B 5),  by  Greenough;  and  small  figures  of  Columbus  and  Aristides  in 
Loiiisburg’  Sq.  (PI.  B,  4^  It  may  be  added  that  A.  Bronson  Alcott  and  Louisa 
M.  Alcott  died  at  No.  10  Louisburg  Sq.  (1888),  that  Jenny  Lind  was  married 
at  No.  20  (1852),  and  that  W.  D.  Howells  lived  at  No.  4. 

The  Warren  Museum  of  Natural  History,  92  Chestnut  St.  (PI.  B,  4), 
is  of  special  interest  to  anatomists  (adm.  on  application  to  Dr.  Warren, 
58  Beacon  St.,  or  Dr.  Dwight,  235  Beacon  St.).  It  contains  the  only 
perfect  skeleton  of  the  mastodon. 


Cambridge  (no  good  hotels;  Dunsler  Cafe,  Dunster  St.,  near 
Harvard  Sq.,  L.  250.,  D.  50c.),  an  academic  city  with  (1900) 
91,886  inhah.,  lies  on  the  N.  hank  of  the  Charles  River,  opposite 
Boston,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  several  bridges  traversed  by 
• electric  tramways.  It  was  founded  as  the  fortified  ‘Newe  Towne’  in 
1630-31,  and  received  its  present  name  in  1638.  The  road  connect- 
ing Watertown  and  Charlestown  is  older  than  the  town  and  was 
probably  laid  out  over  an  Indian  trail.  The  interest  of  Cambridge 
centres  in  the  fact  that  it  is  the  seat  of  ^Harvard  University,  the 
oldest  and  most  famous  of  American  seats  of  learning.  Haiivard 
Square  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  adjoining  the  University  Yard,  is  the  chief 
intersection -point  of  the  tramway-lines  and  the  focus  of  the  city’s 


activity. 

Harvard  College  was  founded  by  the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts 
in  1636,  and  received  in  1638  a legacy  of  about  8C0Z.  from  the  Rev.  John 
Harvard,  a graduate  of  Emmanuel  College,  Cambridge.  Its  growth  through 
public  fostering  and  private  endowment  has  been  continuous;  and  it  is 
now  attended  by  about  6060  students,  taught  by  550  professors  and  in- 
structors. The  faculty  of  Arts  and  Sciences  includes  Harvard  CoJ  ege 
proper,  or  the  academic  department  (2700  students),  the  Lawrence 
School  (science,  mining,  engineering),  and  the  Graduate  School.  The  Pi o- 
fessional  Schools  embrace  divinity,  law,  medicine,  dentistry,  veterinary 
medicine,  and  agriculture.  The  list  of  distinguished  alumni  includes  the 
names  of  John  Adams  (class  of  1755),  John  Quincy  Adams  (yo/),  W.  R. 
Channing  (1798),  Edward  Everett  (1811),  W.  H.  Prescott  (1814),  George 
Bancroft  (1817),  R.  W.  Emerson  (1821),  O.  W.  Holmes  (a  native  of  Cam- 
bridge; 1829),  Sumner  (1830),  Motley  (1831),  Lowell  (a  native  of  Cam- 
bridge; 1838),  E.  E.  Hale  (1839),  and  Thoreau  (1837).  Among  its  presidents 
and  professors  have  been  Josiah  Quincy,  Edward  Everett,  Jared  bparks. 


Sol  die rs 
Field 


1 : 17.500 

MOO  ,.^n» 

2M  300  400  a 

B2  liters/*'  11 

SSuomer  » B.C3  {IDW^ldnjgtoTiJSlm,  B.23 


HARVAF 
UNIVERSITY 

1:7500 


■ericBelies’  Geo^lEstab^  Leipzig 


Harvard  XJniv.  CAMBRIDGE.  5.  Route.  113 

Joseph  Story,  Asa  Gray,  Jeffries  Wyman,  Beni.  Peirce,  Aga.ssiz,  Long- 
fellow, Holmes,  and  Lowell.  ’ 

The  main^  buildings  of  the  University  are  grouped  near  the  centre 
of  old  Cambridge,  about  3^/2  M.  from  Boston,  and  enclose  two  spacious 
quadrangles,  shaded  by  fine  elms.  The  so-called  ‘Yard'  fPl.  C,  3,  and  inset) 
has  two  main  entrances,  with  gates  erected  in  18S0  (W.  end)  and  1891. 
Among  the  buildings  are  Universiiy  Hall  (1815),  with  the  college-offices; 
Massachusetts  Hall  (1720),  the  oldest  college  building  now  standing:  Har- 
vard Hall  (ITob);  Gore  Hall  (1841),  with  the  University  Library  (600,000  vols. ; 
numerous  int£.*esting  relics  and  autographs);  Boylston  Chemical  Labora- 
tory; -Sever  Hall  (1880),  a good  example  of  H.  H.  Richardson;  Robinson 
Hall.,  the  architectural  school;  Appleton  Chapel;  the  tiny  and  outgrown 
Holden  Chapel  (1744);  the  Phillips  Brooks  Memorial  House  (1898);  and  several 
dormitory  buildings  iHollis.^  Stoughton.,  Holworthy.,  Thayer,  Weld,  Gray's, 
Matthews,  etc.).  Wadsworth  House,  the  unpretending  wooden  building  in 
• the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Yard,  was  long  the  residence  of  the  Presidents  of 
the  University.  — On  the  N.  side  of  the  Yard,  facing  Cambridge  St.,  is  the 
Fogg  Art  Museum,  open  daily,  9-5,  on  Sun.  1-5  (Director,  Prof.  C.  G.  Moore), 
which  includes  admirable  synoptical  working  collections  of  ‘Engravings, 
casts,  photographs  (30-40,000),  and  drawings  (several  by  Turner);  a small 
but  choice  collection  of  bronzes,  vases,  and  coins  (small  room  on  ground- 
floor);  a few  excellent  early  Italian  paintings  (upstairs),  including  exam- 
ples of  Benvenuto  da  Siena,  Pinturicchio,  and  Giov.  Bellini  (V);  and  a few 
antiques,  among  which  are  a fine  *Torso  of  Meleager  (early  4th  cent.  B.  C.) 
and  a headless  torso  of  Aphrodite  (Greek,  groundfloor,  near  the  stair- 
case). — In  the  small  triangle  at  the  junction  of  Broadway  and  Cambrid-ie 
St.  stands  the  ^Germanic  Museum  (PI.  C,  3;  Mon.  & Frid.  9-3.30,  Sun  1-5), 
containing  casts  of  typical  German  sculptural  monuments,  the  gift  of  the 
German  Emperor,  and  reproductions  of  representative  German  gold  and 
silver  plate,  given  by  leading  German  citizens.  — On  the  other  side  of 
Cambridge  St.  is  Memorial  Hall  (PI.  C,  3),  by  Ware  and  Vad  Brunt,  erected 
in  memory  of  the  members  of  the  University  who  fell  in  the  Civil  War. 
It  includes  a Vestibule,  with  tablets  of  marble  bearing  the  names  of  the 
fallen ; the  Sanders  Theatre,  in  which  the  graduation  ceremonies  are  held, 
with  a statue  of  President  Josiah  Quincy  (1772-1864),  by  W.  W.  Story;  and 
a large  Hall,  containing  numerous  interesting  portraits  and  stained-glass 
windows,  and  used  daily  as  a dining-hall  by  1000  students  (other  accom- 
modation for  students  in  the  Randall  Dining  Hall,  Divinity  Ave.).  To  the 
W.  of  the  building  is  a modern  ideal  Statue  of  John  Harvard  (1607-38),  by 
D.  C.  French.  — In  Kirkland  St.,  immediately  to  the  N.  of  Memorial  Hall, 
stands  the  new  Lecture  Hall  (PI.  C,  2).  — We  now  follow  Kirkland  St.  to 
the  E.  and  then  Divinity  Ave.  to  the  left.  In  the  latter,  to  the  left,  is  the 
main  building  of  the  University  Museum  (PI.  C,  2;  open  daily,  9-5  ; Director, 
Prof.  Alex.  Agassiz),  containing  valuable  collections  of  comparative  zoology' 
botany,  mineralogy,  and  geology.  The  Glass  Flowers  in  the  Botanical 
Section  (W.  wing,  2nd  floor),  made  by  the  Blaschkas  of  Hosterwitz  (near 
Dresden),  are  so  perfect  as  to  stand  the  test  of  a microscope.  The  Anthro- 
pological Section  occupies  an  adjoining  but  separate  building  known  as 
the  Peabody  Museum  (PI.  6;  C,  2).  On  the  other  side  of  Divinity  Ave.  is 
i'hQ  Semitic  Museum  (PI.  c,  D,  2),  with  Assyrian,  Babylonian,  Palestinian, 
Syrian,  Persian,  Egyptian,  and  Phcenician  collections.  Opposite  the  Mu- 
seums are  the  Divinity  Hall  and  the  Divinity  Library  (PI.  C,  2).  The  Lawrence 
Scientific  School  (PI.  C,  3),  the  Hemenway  Gymnasium  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  the 
Jefferson  Physical  Laboratory  (PI.  C,  2),  the  Botch  Laboratory,  Hastings  Hall 
(PI.  B,  2;  a dormitory),  and  the  -Law  School  {Austin  Hall;  PI.  B C,  2; 
by  H.  H.  Richardson)  all  lie  to  the  W.  of  Memorial  Hall.  The  Botanic 
Garden  (PI.  A,  1)  and  the  admirable  Observatory  (PI.  A,  1),  are  3/4  M.  to 
the  KW.  Pierce  Hall,  Perkins  Hall,  and  Conant  Hall  (PI.  C,  2),  three  dor- 
mitories, stand  to  the  N.  and  W.  of  the  Museums.  — At  the  corner  of 
Massachusetts  Ave.  and  Quincy  St.  stands  the  building  of  the  Harvard  Union 
(PI.  C,  4,  & inset),  a club  for  graduates  and  undergraduates,  the  gift  of 
Mr.  H.  L.  Higginson,  containing  a fine  portrait  by  Sargent  of  the  donor. 
To  the  S.  of  this  point  are  Claverly,  Randolph,  and  Westmorly  Halls  (PI.  C,  4), 
Baedeker's  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  3 


114  Route  5. 


CAMBRIDGE. 


CornmoTi. 


three  of  the  newest  and  most  laxurious  dormitories.  — The  chief  Athletic 
Ground  of  Harvard  is  the  Soldiers'  Fields  on  the  S.  hank  of  the  Charles, 
with  the  Carey  Athletic  Building^  the  Locker  Building^  and  the  enormous  new 
Stadium,  built  of  concrete,  accommodating  27,000  spectators,  and  equalling 
the  Roman  Colosseum  in  circumference.  The  University  Boat  House  CP\.  A,  4) 
lies  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Charles,  and  the  Weld  Boat  Club  (PI.  B,  4,  5), 
on  the  opposite  bank,  is  also  used  by  the  students.  — The  buildings  of 
the  Medical^  Dental^  and  Veterinary  Schools  are  in  Boston  (comp.  p.  109), 
and  the  Bussey  Institution  (Arboretum,  with  a new  laboratory)  is  at  Jamaica 
Plain  (p.  116). 

The  Common  (PI.  B,  2,  3),  to  the  W.  of  the  University  build- 
ings, contains  a Soldiers'  Monument  (PI.  9)  and  statues  of  John 
Bridge  (PL  14;  1578-1665),  the  Puritan,  and  Charles  Sumner 
(PI.  5;  1311-74).  Near  its  N.W.  angle  is  the  venerable  Washington 
Elm,  under  which  Washington  assumed  command  of  the  American 
army  on  July  3rd,  1775.  To  the  S.  of  the  Elm  is  Radcliffe  College, 
for  women,  named  in  honour  of  the  Englishwoman  Anne  Radcliffe 
(Lady  Moulson),  the  first  woman  to  give  a scholarship  to  Harvard 
(1640).  Here  about  430  young  women  receive  instruction  from 
Harvard  professors  and  are  granted  the  degrees  of  A.  B.  and  A.  M., 
countersigned  by  the  President  of  Harvard  University.  Adjacent  is 
the  Shepard  Memorial  Church  (PI.  8).  To  the  W.  of  this  is  the  Epis- 
copal Theological  School  (PI.  A,  2,  3),  with  St.  John's  Memorial  Chapel. 
— Opposite  the  S.  end  of  the  Common  stand  the  First  Parish  Church 
(PI.  B,  3),  with  a Gothic  steeple,  and  Christ  Church,  built  of  materials 
brought  fromlEngland  and  containing  a fine  set  of  chimes.  Between 
them  is  the  burying-ground  of  the  old  town. 

‘Like  Sentinel  and  Nun,  they  keep 
‘Their  vigil  on  the  greeny 
‘One  seems  to  guard,  and  one  to  weep 

‘The  dead  that  lie  between'.  (0.  W.  Holmes.) 

A little  to  the  W.  of  the  Epis.  Theolog.  School,  in  Brattle  St., 
facing  towards  the  Charles  River,  is  *Craigie  House  (PI.  A,  2),  built 
in  1759  by  Col.  Vassall  and  occupied  by  Washington  in  1775-76, 
but  winning  its  chief  interest  from  the  fact  that  it  was  the  home  of 
Henry  W.  Longfellow  from  1837  tillhis  death  in  1882.  It  contains 
many  interesting  relics  of  the  poet.  In  Elmwood  Ave.,  which  leads 
to  the  left  from  Brattle  St.  farther  on,  is  Elmwood,  the  home  of 
James  Russell  Lowell  ) 1819-91),  adjoined  by  a small  public  park. 

Following  Brattle  St.  or  Mt.  Auburn  St.  for  about  1 M.  (electric 
car  on  the  latter),  we  reach  the  entrance  to  *Mt.  Auburn  Cemetery, 
which  is  very  beautifully  laid  out  and  contains  the  graves  of  Long- 
fellow, Lowell,  Sumner,  Everett,  Josiah  Quincy,  Rufus  Choate, 
Channing,  Motley,  Agassiz,  Prescott,  Phillips  Brooks,  Oliver  Wen- 
dell Holmes,  and  many  other  distinguished  men.  Fine  *View  of 
Boston  and  its  environs  from  the  tower  on  the  highest  point.  The 
Chapel  contains  some  interesting  statues. 

Among  the  other  important  buildings  of  Cambridge  are  the  *City  Hall, 
Massachusetts  Ave.,  designed  by  A.  W.  Longfellow ; the  Public  Library, 
at  ihe  corner  of  Broadway  and  Irving  St.  ; and  the  Manual  Training  School, 
opposite  the  last  — all  three  presented  to  the  city  by  Mr.  F.  H.  Rindge, 


Bunker  Hill  Mon.  CHARLESTOWN. 


5.  Route.  115 


a native  of  Cambridge  The  Epworth  Methodist  Church,  near  Austin  Hall 
Riverside  Pms,  and  the  University  Press  may  also  be  noted.  At  Cam- 
bridgeport  the  famous  telescope-makers,  Alvan  Clark  Co.  The  total 
products  of  Cambridge  in  1900  was  $39,164,000.  — 
C!harles  River,  near  the 

boldiers  Field  (p.  114),  is  much  frequented  for  driving  and  sleighing. 

Charlestown  (PI.  A,  B,  1),  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Charles  River, 
settled  ui  1829  and  containing  40,500  inhah.,  is  now  incorporated 
with  Boston,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  railway  and  other  bridges, 
^e  most  prominent  feature  of  Charlestown  is  the  Bunker  Kill 
Koniiinent  (PI  A 1),  a granite  obelisk  221  ft.  high  (294  steps'), 
erected  m 1825-42  to  commemorate  the  battle  of  Bunker  or  (more 
properly)  Breed’s  Hill  (June  17th,  1775).  The  »View  from  the  top 
(adm.  20  e.)  includes  Boston,  Boston  Harbour,  the  Charles  and 
Mystic  Rivers,  Cambridge,  the  Blue  Hills,  etc.  Adjacent  is  a bronze 
statue  of  Col.  Prescott,  by  Story,  and  in  the  building  at  the  base 
Of  the  monument  is  one  of  Oen.  Warren  (killed  in  the  battleL 

received  a severe  check  on  their 
thf  thi^d  iT  iiiJl  occupied  by  the  American  troops,  but  on 

the  third  attempt  they  drove  the  Americans  from  their  entrenchments  and 
aftpr  ‘lien  advanced  on  Boston  and 

(comp  p 99)  ^ months  compelled  the  British  to  evacuate  the  city 

Charlestown  also  contains  a Navy  Yard (Pl.B,  1 ; 87 acres;  open 
r Monument,  and  a Monument  to  John  Harvard 

(p.  112;  in  the  old  burial  - ground).  A house  in  Main  St.,  near 
Thompson  Sq.  (p.  96 ; PI  A,  1),  is  marked  as  the  birthplace  of 
Samiret  Morse  (1791-1872),  inventor  of  the  electric  telegraph.  — 
In  the  dock  used  by  the  -White  Star  Line  lies  the  old  frigate  ‘Con- 
stitution’, the  victor  in  the  famous  fight  with  the  British  ‘Guerriere’ 
(Aug.  19th,  1812). 

for  are  very  attractive  and  afford  opportunity 

bv  tSwetai  in^no-®*t“” f historical  points  now  marked 

^ 1 point  of  interest  is  the  beautiful  ’^Harbour,  dotted 

wmi  islands.  It  is  about  15  M.  long  from  N.  to  S.  and  8 M 

Tht  ]>Si“s^'iD  a minimum  depth  of  23  ft.  at  low  water, 

ine  iuain  bhip  Channel,  or  entrance  to  the  harbour,  is  between  Point 
AUerton  on  the  S.  and  the  Brewsters,  with  Boston  Light,  on  the  N.  Steamers 
fi’om  iJoiBe's,  Forster" s,  and  India  Wharves  to  the  favourite 
esorts.  Among  these  are  Hull  (The  Pemberton,  $4*  Nautilus  Inn)  with 

Bingham  ist  p.  117);  andNantarket 

$rfrianenfed  « S-IVr;  Van&et  from 

whL.h  ^ day-tnppers),  a fine  strip  of  beach,  5 M.  in  length 

h ch  offers  a scene  of  great  animation  on  Sundays  and  holidavs  A 
narrow-gauge  electric  railway  runs  from  Hull  along  Nantasket  Beach  to 
Nantasket  (see  p.  117).  Among  the  chief  islands  in  the  harbour  are 

wTth  ForTwfnthro^;  the  old  Fort  Independence;  Oovernor's  UlIIl 

IKH'Sirrr'  Sir-.*: 

Steamers  also  ply  regularly  in  summer  to  Nahant(v.  121-  25  c 1 wbilp 
riymoum  (,p.  Ilf),  and  other  points  in  Massachusetts  Bay. 


8* 


116  Route  5. 


BROOKLINE. 


The  most  beautiful  of  the  suburban  neighbours  of  Boston  is  Brookline, 
which  lies  to  the  S.W.  of  the  city  and  contains  many  very  handsome  re- 
sidences embowered  in  trees.  It  is  connected  wiih  Boston  by  railway 
and  electric  tramway.  One  of  the  most  charming  of  the  many  charming 
places  here  is  Holm  Lea^  the  home  of  Prof.  C.  8.  Sargent,  the  well-known 
arboriculturist.  Among  the  buildings  of  the  village  proper  may  be  men- 
tioned the  Unitarian  Church  and  the  Public  Baths.  Near  Brookline  is  the 
large  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir.^  the  drive  round  which  is  a favourite  one  from 
Boston.  — To  the  S.  of  Brookline  lies  Jamaica  Plain,  with  Jamaica  Park., 
Jamaica  Pond  (on  the  W.  bank,  the  home  of  the  late  Francis  Parkman, 
the  historian),  and  the  Arnold  Arboretum.,  one  of  the  finest  institutions  of 
the  kind  in  the  world  (fine  hemlock  wood  at  its  S.  end^  view  from  the 
central  hill).  Mr.  Quincy  A.  Shaw.,  Perkins  St.,  Jamaica  Plain,  possesses  the 
richest  and  choicest  ^CollecMon  in  existence  of  works  by  J.  F.  Millet., 
Rousseau.,  Troyon.,  Corot.,  Daubigny.,  and  other  masters  of  the  Barbison  school. 
Among  other  works  of  art  in  the  same  collection  are  paintings  by  Rem- 
brandt (two  heads).  Potter.,  Frans  Hals.,  Francia.,  ^Tintoretto.,  2iJi^*Mainardi; 
a "^Madonna  by  Luca  della  Robbia;  and  a marble  relief  and  a ’'"Bust  of  Lorenzo 
de’  Medici,  by  Verrocchio.  — A little  farther  to  the  S.  is  the  pretty  ■■'Forest  Hills 
Cemetery.,  with  a fine  monument  to  the  sculptor  Martin  Milmore,  by  D.  C. 
French  (relief  of  Death  staying  the  sculptor's  hand).  The  cemetery  abuts 
on  "Franklin  Park  (seep.  111).  All  these  places  may  be  easily  combined  in 
one  afternoon’s  drive  and  are  accessible  by  electric  car.  The  Martin  Luther 
Orphan  Home.,  in  the  district  of  West  Roxbury.,  occupies  the  Brook  Farm, 
where  a small  group  of  cultivated  people,  led  by  George  Ripley,  made 
their  famous  attempt  to  found  a socialistic  community  (1841-47).  Haw- 
thorne, Margaret  Fuller,  and  Channing  were  among  those  connected  with 
this  experiment.  The  home  and  church  of  Theodore  Parker  (1810-60)  were 
in  W.  Roxbury,  and  there  is  a bronze  statue  of  him  in  Centre  St.  — 
Chelsea  {^Broadway.,  $2^^  Carleton^  $ 1V2-2V2),  to  the  N.  of  E.  Boston,  on 
the  Mystic  River.,  contains  a Soldiers’  Monument,  a Soldiers’  Home,  a 
Marine  Hospital,  a Naval  Hospital,  and  well-known  Art-Tile  Works.  — 
Those  who  are  fond  of  rowing  and  canoeing  should  go  by  the  Boston  & 
Albany  R.  R.  or  by  electric  car  to  (11  M.)  Riverside  (boat-houses,  etc.), 
situated  on  a lovely  reach  of  the  Charles  River.  On  the  edge  of  the  river 
is  Norumbega  Park.,  a pleasure-resort  with  a restaurant,  theatre,  con- 
certs, electrical  fountain,  boat-house,  menagerie,  and  other  attractions 
(adm.  10  c.;  return- ticket  by  Commonwealth  Ave.  Street  Railway,  from 
Newton  Boulevard,  incl.  adm.,  15  c.).  On  the  river-bank,  about  1 M.  below, 
is  a tower  erected  by  Prof.  Horsford  on  what  he  believed  to  be  the  site 
of  the  ancient  Norumbega. 

Other  favourite  resorts  within  easy  reach  of  Boston  are  Newton  (see 
p.  82);  the  Blue  or  Milton  Hills  (views),  8 M.  to  the  S.  (comp.  p.  88);  Revere 
Beach  (p.  121);  Arlington  Heights  (360  ft.;  view;  Robbins  Springs  Hotel), 
reached  by  train  from  Boston  or  by  electric  car  via  Cambridge ; Waverley 
(also  reached  by  electric  car  or  railway),  about  3 M.  to  the  W.  of  Cambridge, 
with  the  picturesque  Beaver  Brook  and  Waverley  Oaks  Reservation  (fine 
trees) ; and  the  Middlesex  Fells  (p.  151).  Longer  excursions  may  be  made 

to  Concord  (p.  146)  and  Lexington  (p.  147),  Providence  (p.  84),  Newport 

(p.  89),  etc. 

From  Boston  to  New  York.,  see  E.  4;  to  Portland,  see  R.  9;  to  the 

White  Mts..,  see  p.  158;  to  Nantucket  and  Martha"' s Vineyard,  see  p.  119;  to 

Plymouth,  see  R.  6 : to  Cape  Cod,  see  R.  8 ; to  Campobello  and  Grand  Manan, 
see  R.  13;  to  Albany,  see  R.  17;  to  Canada,  see  R.  15. 


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117 


6,  From  Boston  to  Plymouth. 

a.  Yik  Whitman, 

37  M.  Old  Colony  System  of  N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H.  R.  R rSouth  TIn4n'n 
Station)  in  11/4-11/2  Rr.  (fare  90  c.  ^ return-ticket,  good  by  either  route,  $11/2), 

hrom  Boston  to  (11  M.)  South  Braintree^  see  p.  94.  15  M 

South  Weymouth;  19M.  Abington,  From  (21 M.)  miZman  a branch - 
line  runs  to  (1 M,)  Bridgewater  (ig.  11^),  30  M.  Plympton,  at  the  S. 
end  of  Silver  Lake;  33  M.  Kingston.  The  monument  at  Duxbury 
(see  below)  is  now  seen  to  the  left,  as  the  train  skirts  Plymouth  Bay. 

3 r M.  Plymouth.^  see  below. 

b.  Via  South  Shore. 

46  M.  Old  Colony  System  of  N Y N H tt  t?  n tt  • 

Station)  in  13/4-2  hrs.  (fares  as  aboveh  ^ 

From  Boston  to  (10  M.)  Braintree,  see  p.  94.  Our  train  turns 
to  the  left  (E.).  12  M.  Weymouth.  — 17  M.  Hingham  (Cushing  Ho 
a quaint  village  on  Boston  Harbour,  settled  in  1636,  with  the 
oldest  occupied  church  in  New  England  (1681).  In  the  graveyard 
( View)  IS  the  grave  of  J.  A.  Andrew  (d.  1867),  the  famous  ‘War 
trovernor  of  Massachusetts,  marked  by  a statue.  — From  (18  M ) 
Nantasket  Junction  a branch-line  runs  to  Nantaslcet  Beach  and  Hull 
(see  p.  lo).  22  M.  Cohasset  (Black  Bock  Ho.,  on  the  Jerusalem 
Boad,  a delightful  shore-resort,  with  numerous  fine  villas 

lining  the  beautiful  ^Jerusalem  Road.  — 27  M.  Scituate,  an  old  fish- 
mg  village,  frequented  for  sea-bathing,  was  the  birthplace  of  Samuel 
Woodworth  (1780-1842),  author  of ‘The  Old  Oaken  Bucket’.  About 
4 M.  offshore  is  the  Minot’s  Ledge  Lighthouse.  — 34  M.  Marshfield 

was  the  home  of  Daniel  Webster^  where  he  died  in  1852  38  M 

Huxiurp  (Duxbury  Inn,  $2;  Myles  Standish  Ho.,  at  S.  Duxbury,' 
0-0)  was  the  home  of  John  Alden  and  Miles  Standish,  and  a mon- 
mneiit  110  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  a statue,  has  been  erected  near 

CAP  S-f  m J^ingston,  and  thence  to 

(4b  M.)  Plymouth^  see  above. 

Plymouth  (Namoset  Ho.,  $21/2-3;  The  Elms;  Plymouth  Bock 
Ho.,  plain,  $ 2;  Hotel  Pilgrim,  $ 3-4,  3 M.  to  the  S.E.,  reached  by 
QKQo^-^  iiidustrial  village  and  summer-resort  with  (1900) 

JCyi  inhab.,  lies  on  the  sheltered  bay  of  the  same  name,  opening  off 
the  W.  side  of  the  larger  Cape  Cod  Bay  (p.  120),  It  is  of  abiding 
landing-place  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  (Dec.  20th, 
IbxJUJ  and  the  site  of  the  first  settlement  in  New  England. 

On  leaving  the  railway-station  we  proceed  to  theW.  to  Court  St., 
which  we  follow  to  the  left.  At  the  corner  of  Chilton  St.,  to  the  left 
IS  ‘Iilgrim  Hall  (open  daily;  25c.),  containing  numerous  interest- 
ing  relics  of  the  Pilgrims,  paintings  of  their  embarkation  and  land- 
ing,  old  portraits,  etc.  — Farther  on,  to  the  right,  at  the  corner  of 
Kiissell  St.,  IS  the  Court  House.  North  St.,  to  the  left,  leads  to  the 
1 lymouthRock,  on  which  the  landing  was  made,  a granite  boulder, 


118  Route  6, 


PLYMOUTH. 


now  enclosed  "by  a railing  and  covered  with  a canopy.  The  retrocession 
of  the  sea  has  left  the  rock  at  some  distance  above  the  water.  Cole's 
Hill,  opposite  the  rock,  was  the  hurial-place  of  the  early  settlers 
(1620-21),  and  some  human  hones  found  here  are  now  preserved 
in  a chamber  in  the  canopy  over  the  Rock. 

We  now  follow  Water  Street  to  Leyden  Street,  which  we  ascend 
to  the  right,  passing  (left)  the  site  of  the  first  house.  On  reaching 
Town  Square  we  ascend  by  the  path  to  the  right  to  the  ancient 
^’Burial  Hill,  with  the  graves  of  many  of  the  early  settlers,  includ- 
ing Gov.  Bradford  (comp.  p.  102). 

A fortified  church  was  erected  here  in  1622.  The  -View  embraces 
Plymouth  Bay,  with  the  Gurnet  Lighthouse^  Duxbury,  with  its  monument 
(p.  117);  Cape  Cod;  the  Pilgrim  Monument  (see  below);  the  Manomet 
Hills  (to  the  S.),  etc.  — To  the  S.  is  Watson's  mil,  where  the  Pilgrims 
made  a treaty  with  Massasoit  in  1621. 

We  may  now  descend  on  the  N.W.  side  of  Burial  Hill  and 
ioWoY,' Allerton  Street  to  the  N.  to  (741^^0  the*NATioNAL  Monument 
TO  THE  Pilgrims,  consisting  of  a granite  pedestal  45  ft.  high,  sur- 
mounted by  a figure  of  Faith,  36  ft.  high,  and  surrounded  by  seated 
figures,  20  ft.  high,  representing  Law,  Morality,  Freedom,  and 
Education.  The  monument  was  completed  in  1888.  It  is  about 
1/4  M.  from  the  rail  way- station , which  we  regain  by  following 
Cushman  St.  to  the  E. 

The  "Environs  of  Plymouth  contain  hundreds  of  small  lakes  and 
ponds,  of  which  BilUnglon  Sect  is  the  largest.  Large  quantities  of  the 
trailing  arbutus  or  mayilower  (Upigaea  repens)  are  found  here  in  spring. 
Near  Billington  Sea  is  the  pretty  Morton  Park.  — Manomet  Bhiffs  (Ardmore 
inn,  $ 23/4),  to  the  S.E.  of  Plymouth,  are  frequented  in  summer. 


7.  From  Boston  to  Martha’s  Vineyard  and  Nantucket. 

Old  Colony  System  of  N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H.  R.  R.  to  (72  M.)  Woods  Hole 
in  2‘/4’3  hrs.;  Steamek  thence  to  Cottage  City  in  ^4  br.  (through-fare 
$2.35,  return-fare  $3),  to  Nantucket  in  3-372  hrs.  (through  - fare  $3.35, 
return-fare  $ 4).  — An  alternative  route  (same  fares)  is  by  train  to  (IV2- 
13/4  hr.)  New  Bedford  (p.  120)  and  thence  by  steamer  (2  and  472-5  hrs.). 

From  Boston  to  (55  M.)  Buzzard's  Bay,  see  R.  8.  — The  train 
here  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  line  to  Provincetown  and  runs 
to  the  S.  along  the  shore  of  Buzzard's  Bay.  57  M.  Monument  Beach ; 
59  M.  Pocasset;  68  M.  Falmouth,  the  station  for  Falmouth  Heights 
(Tower’s  Hotel,  Vineyard  Sound  Ho.,  $ 3),  Quisset  (2^2  M. ; Quisset 
IfarborHo.,  $3),  and  (3^/2  M.)  Mcnaw/iawt  (Menauhaiit  Hotel,  $3). 

72  M.  Wood's  Hole  i^The  Breakwater,  $ 3^/2  5 Bexter  Ho.,  $ 2V2 ; 
Corner  Inn,  $2)  is  a small  maritime  village  with  a Marine  Biological 
Laboratory  and  a station  of  the  U.  S.  Fish  Commission,  which  attract 
many  naturalists  and  students  in  the  summer  months.  It  is  reached 
from  New  York  via  Fall  River.  Steamers  ply  hence  at  frequent 
intervals  to  (7  M.)  Cottage  City,  on  Martha's  Vineyard. 

Martha’s  Vineyard  is  an  island  oft  the  S.  coast  of  Massachusetts, 
23  M.  long  and  10  M.  across  at  its  widest  part.  Its  inhabitants 


NANTUCKET. 


7.  Route,  119 


(4561  in  1900)  were  formerly  occupied  in  tlie  wliale-lislieries,  but 
now  owe  most  of  their  prosperity  to  the  summer- visitors.  The  chief 
resort  of  the  island  is  Cottage  City  (^Naumkeag,  Pawnee, 

Island  Ho.,  Narragansett,  Wesley,  Frasier,  $2-3),  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  the  N.E.  side  of  the  island  and  said  to  contain  1200  ‘cot- 
tages’. At  the  large  Camp  Meeting  Grounds  20,000  Methodists 
assemble  every  August.  A narrow-gauge  railway  (disused  at  pre- 
sent) runs  to  the  S.  to  (5  M.)  Edgartown  (Harbor  View  Ho.,  $ 3^2  ; 
coach  to  this  point)  and  (8  M.)  Katama  (Mattakeset  Lodge) ; and 
there  are  also  summer- settlements  at  Vineyard  Haven  (Rudder 
Grange,  from  $ 2^2  5 Tashmoo  Ho.,  Mansion  Ho. , $2),  with  a fine 
harbour,  and  West  Chop  (The  Cedars,  $3;  West  Chop  Inn,  $2-272)- 
"^Gay  Head,  the  W.  extremity  of  the  island,  commands  a fine  view; 
the  cliffs  are  200  ft.  high  (lighthouse).  Part  of  this  end  of  the  is- 
land is  reserved  for  the  remnant  of  the  Indian  inhabitants. 

Steamers  ply  daily  from  Cottage  City  to  NantucTcei  (see  below)  and 
New  Bedford  {p.  120}  and  weekly  to  Portland  (p.  128)  and  New  York  (p.  7). 

The  sandy,  treeless  island  of  Nantucket,  with  (1900)  3000  in- 
hab.,  lies  12-15  M.  to  the  E.  of  Martha’s  Yineyard,  but  the  steam- 
boat course  from  Cottage  City  to  the  quaint  town  of  Nantucket 
(^Sea  Cliff  Inn,  $3-4;  Nantucket,  $272-'!  5 Ocean  Ho.,  Holiday  Inn, 
Springfield,  Veranda  Ho.,  $272-^72  i Point  Breeze,  $2-3),  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  island,  is  about  26  M.  Nantucket , like  Martha  s 
Vineyard,  was  once  a great  whaling-place,  but  now  depends  mainly 
on  fishing,  farming,  and  summer- visitors.  Catching  bluefish  is 
one  of  the  chief  amusements  of  the  last.  The  Athenaeum  contains 
a collection  of  curios  from  all  parts  of  the  globe.  A narrow-gauge  rail- 
way runs  to  (10  M.)  Siasconset  (pron.  ‘Sconset’;  Ocean  View  Ho,, 
$3;  Beach  Ho.,  $ 2-3),  at  the  E.  end  of  the  island.  The  Wireless 
Telegraph  Station  here  receives  the  earliest  news  of  steamers  from 
Europe  and  passes  it  on  to  the  mainland  (comp.  p.  2).  Sankaty  Head 
(90  ft.),  1 M.  to  the  N.  of  Siasconset,  bears  a lighthouse  and  affords 
aline  ocean-view.  At  Surfside  (Nwr/* /Side  Ho.,  $4),  3 M.  to  the 
S.  of  Nantucket,  a splendid  surf  rolls  in  after  a storm.  Both  Mar- 
tha’s Yineyard  and  Nantucket  were  settled  in  the  17th  cent,  and 
possess  buildings  and  relics  of  considerable  historical  interest.  Nan- 
tucket, in  particular,  is  very  quaint  and  picturesque. 

8.  From  Boston  to  Provincetown. 

Cape  Cod. 

120  M.  Old  Colony  System  of  N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H.  R.  R.  (South  Union 
Station)  in  41/4  hr s.  (fare  3 2.95,  return-fare  34.80).  — Steamers  also  ply 
daily  to  Provincetown  in  summer  from  Battery  Wharf  (50  M.  in  4 lirs. ; 
return- fare  31). 

From  Boston  to  (11  M.)  South  Braintree,  see  p.  94.  20  M. 
Brockton,  an  industrial  city  with  (1900)40,063  inhab. ; 27  M.  Bridge- 
water,  a pleasant  village,  with  1900)  5806  inhab.,  a large  State 


120  Route  8, 


CAPE  COD. 


Normal  School,  foundries,  and  iron-works.  — 35  M.  Middlehoro^ 
a manufacturing  town  with.  (1900)  6885  inhah.,  is  the  junction  of 
lines  to  Fall  River  and  Newport  (see  p.  94),  etc.  — From  (46  M.) 
Tremont  a branch-line  runs,  via  Marion  and  Mattapoisett  (two 
pleasant  little  summer-resorts),  to  (15  M.)  Fairhaven  (with  its  fine 
public  library),  opposite  New  Bedford  (ferry). 

New  Bedford  {Parker  Ho.^  $21/2-4;  Mansion  Ho.^  $2),  a pleasant  little 
city  at  the  mouth  of  the  Acushnet^  was  formerly  an  important  whaling  port 
and  is  now  a busy  centre  of  the  manufacture  of  cotton  (1,250,000  spindles ; 
products  valued  at  $25,651,671  in  1900).  Pop.  (1900)  62,442.  It  contains 
many  fine  old  mansions  and  substantial  public  buildings.  Many  dismantled 
whalers  still  lie  in  the  harbour,  and  the  town  still  carries  on  a trade  in 
whalebone.  A beautiful  drive  runs  round  Clarlc's  Pointy  with  Fort  Taber 
(good  sea-views).  — New  Bedford  is  reached  direct  from  Boston  by  rail- 
way (53  M.)  in  IV2-IV4  br.  (fare  $ 1.35). 

From  Tremont  our  train  now  runs  to  the  E.  49  M.  WareJiam. 
51  M.  Onset  Junction^  for  the  line  to  (IV2  M.)  Onset  Bay^  a seaside 
resort.  55  M.  Buzzard's  Bay  (Parker  Ho.,  $ 2),  near  which  are  the 
seaside  homes  of  ex-President  Cleveland  (Grey  Gables)  and  Mr. 
Joseph  Jefferson,  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Wood’s  Hole  (seeR.  7). 

At  Buzzard’s  Bay  begins  Cape  Cod , which  stretches  hence 
towards  the  E.  for  35  M.  and  then  to  the  N.  and  N.W.  for 
30  M.  more. 

The  Cape  gradually  tapers  in  width  from  10  M.  to  about  1 M.  and 
consists  almost  entirely  of  sand,  with  few  rocks  or  large  trees.  It  en- 
closes Cape  Cod  Bay  (comp.  p.  117  and  see  Map).  The  inhabitants,  gen- 
uine descendants  of  the  Pilgrims,  ai’e  still  very  quaint  and  primitive  in 
many  of  their  ways.  They  form  excellent  seamen.  The  Cranberry  Bogs 
produce  one  of  the  most  lucrative  crops  of  the  Cape,  and  the  scene  at 
the  cranberry  harvest  (Sept.-Oct.)  is  not  unlike  hop-picking  in  England. 
Fast  pickers  can  earn  $ 4-5  a day  at  the  rate  of  10  c.  per  ‘measure’  of 
6 quarts.  Some  use  an  ingenious  picking-machine. 

62  M.  Sandwich.  69  M.  West  Barnstable  is  the  station  for  (6  M.) 
Osterville^  a sea-bathing  resort  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  Cape.  73  M. 
Barnstable  (Barnstable  Inn,  well  spoken  of);  76  M.  Yarmouth^ 
junction  of  a short  line  to  (3  M.)  Hyannis  and  (41/2  M.)  Hyannis 
Harbor.  85  M.  Harwich  (Belmont,  at  West  Harwich,  $3)  is  the 
junction  of  a branch-line  to  (7  M.)  Chatham,  whence  stages  run  to 
Chatham  Beach  (Ma^ttdiqudiSon,  $3;  Chatham  Beach  Hotel,  $2).  The 
line  now  turns  to  the  left  (N.).  89  M.  Brewster;  94  M.  Orleans;  97  M. 
Eastham;  106  M.  W ell  fleet ; 111  M.  Truro,  with  a dangerous  beach 
guarded  by  Highland  Light. 

120  M.  Provincetown  (^Central  Ho.,  $21/2;  Gifford  Ho.,  Pil- 
grim Ho.,  $2)  is  a quaint  old  fishing-town  (cod  and  mackerel)  with 
(1900)  4247  inhab.  and  a fine  land-locked  harbour  formed  by  the 
final  crook  of  Cape  Cod.  The  Mayflower  anchored  here  on  Nov.  11th, 
1620.  Good  view  from  High  Pole  Hill.  There  is  a lighthouse  on 
Race  Point. 


121 


9.  From  Boston  to  Portland, 

a.  By  the  Eastern  Division  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

108  M.  Railway  in  3V4-4V2  hrs.  (fares  $ 21/2 ; parlor-car  60  c.)-  This  line 
runs  near  the  E.  coast  of  Massachusetts,  New  Hampshire,  and  Maine,  af- 
fording frequent  views  of  the  ocean  (seats  to  the  right).  Beyond  Portland 
it  runs  on  to  (244  M.)  Bangor  and  (450  M.)  Bt.  John  (Canada);  comp.  R.  10a. 

Leaving  the  N.  Union  Station  in  Causeway  St.  (see  p.  94),  we  cross 
the  Charles  River.  To  the  right  lies  Charlestown.^  with  the  Bunker 
Hill  Monument  (p.  115).  At  Prison  Point  we  see  the  State  Prison 
to  the  right.  In  Somerville.,  about  1 M.  to  the  W.  of  M.)  East 
Somerville.,  is  Prospect  Hill,  with  a monument  erected  in  1903  to 
commemorate  the  spot  on  which  the  first  American  flag  was  un- 
furled in  1776.  We  now  cross  the  Mystic.  — From  (41/2  M.)  Chelsea 
(p.  116)  a tramway  runs  to  Revere  Beach  (several  hotels),  the  ‘Coney 
Island’  of  Boston,  frequented  by  enormous  crowds  on  ail  holidays 
and  provided  with  admirable  bathing  facilities.  It  is  also  reached 
by  the  narrow-gauge  Boston,  Revere  Beach,  ^ Lynn  R.  R. , which 
runs  along  the  beach  to  Point  of  Pines  (hotel)  and  (9^2  ^0  Lynn 
(see  below).  The  train  traverses  salt-marshes,  crosses  Chelsea  Creek 
and  the  Saugus,  and  reaches  — 

111/2  Ljmi  ( Prescott  Inn , at  King’s  Beach,  $4;  Seymour, 
Kirtland,  $2-3;  Algonquin),  an  industrial  city  of  (1900)  68,513  in- 
hab.,  with  a handsome  City  Hall  and  a Soldiers  Monument.  It  is 
one  of  the  largest  boot  and  shoe  manufacturing  towns  in  the  world, 
producing  20-25  million  pairs  annually,  valued  at  30  million  dol- 
lars. The  General  Electric  Co.  employs  5000  hands.  View  from 
High  Rock.  Fine  Public  Forest  Park. 

Lynn  is  the  focus  of  a large  system  of  Electric  Railways,  extending 
to  Boston  (Scollay  Sq.),  Salem  (p.  122),  Gloucester  (p.  124),  Newhuryport 
(p.  124),  Portsmouth  (p.  125),  York  Beach  (p.  126),  and  many  nearer  points. 

Omnibuses  (15c.;  tramway  in  progress)  run  from  Lynn  to  Lynn  Beach 
(Red  Rock  Ho.,  $4)  and  (4  M.)  Nahant  t^Hotel  Tudor,  from  $4;  Rockledge, 
% 2-21/2),  a curious  rock-built  promontory,  with  fine  cliffs  and  beaches, 
connected  with  the  mainland  by  a narrow  neck  of  sand.  Nahant  contains 
the  seaside  homes  of  so  many  leading  Bostonians  as  to  have  been  called 
Cold  Roast  Boston’.  The  finest  point  of  the  cliff  scenery  is  Castle  Rock, 
at  the  E.  end  of  the  peninsula,  reached  through  the  grounds  of  Senator 
Cabot  Lodge.  — Bass  Point,  to  the  S.W.,  is  a popular  resort  in  the  style 
of  Revere  Beach.  Steamboat,  see  p.  115. 

13  m.  Swampscott  {Lincoln  Ho.,  Ocean  Ho.,  from  $ 4),  a Boston- 
ian seaside- resort , with  charming  combinations  of  rocky  bluffs 
and  sandy  beaches.  The  main  line  station  is  about  I1/2  M.  from 
the  sea,  and  carriages  from  the  hotels  meet  the  chief  trains. 

A small  branch-line  diverging  here  runs  along  the  beach  to  Marblehead 
(18  M.  from  Boston),  passing  Phillips  Beach,  Beach  Bluff  (Hotel  Preston, 
from  $4;  Elms,  $21/2  8),  Clifton  (Crowninshield,  $21/2-81/2),  and  Devereux 
(Devereux  Mansion,  $ 21/2-8),  all  frequented  for  sea-bathing. 

Marblehead  (Hotels  at  Clifton,  Devereux,  and  Marblehead  Neck),  a sea- 
side town  with  (1900)  7582  inhab.,  dates  back  to  early  in  the  17th  cent, 
and  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  quaintest  places  in  New  England.  It  lies  on 
a rocky  peninsula  and  has  a fine  harbour.  Its  maritime  commerce  has. 


SALEM. 


From  Boston 


122 


Route  9. 


however,  deserted  it  long  since,  and  its  chief  industry  now  is  the  making 
of  shoes  Fishing  is  also  carried  on.  Among  the  most  noteworthy  of  the 
old  Colonial  buildings  is  the  National  Bank^  built  as  a mansion  for  Col. 
Lee  in  1768,  with  materials  brought  from  England.  The  Old  Fort,  to  the 
S of  the  town,  commands  an  excellent  view.  St.  Michael  s Church  dates 
from  1714.  AhhoVs  Hall,  with  its  lofty  tower,  contains  the  town-offices 
and  a public  library.  The  new  Post  Office  & Custom  House  (1904)  is  a red 
brick  building  in  the  Colonial  style,  with  white  marble  facings.  A granite 
monument  near  the  station  commemorates  the  capture  of  a British  ship 
in  1776  by  a Marbleheader.  Marblehead  was  the  birthplace  of  Elhrxdge  Qerry 
(of  ‘Gerrymander’  fame;  1744-1814)  and  is  the  scene  of  WhittieFs  poem 
‘Skipper  Ireson’s  Ride’.  The  famous  encounter  between  the  ‘Chesapeake’ 
and  the  ‘Shannon’  took  place  off  the  coast  here,  and  most  of  the  crew  of 
the  ‘Constitution’  were  recruited  in  the  town.  See  Samuel  Roads  History 
of  Marblehead’  and  BynneFs  historical  novel  ‘Agnes  Surriage  . 

(Ran epashemet  House,  $ 3V2-6;  Oceanside,  $ 4), 
ing  the  outer  arm  of  the  harbour  and  connected  with  the  ma]nland  by 
a narrow  causeway,  is  a popular  bathing-place  and  the  headc]uarters  of 
the  Eastern  and  Corinthian  Yachting  Clubs.  The  Marblehead  course  is  one 
of  the  favourite  yacht-racing  resorts  on  the  coast,  and  the  little  harbour 
is  no  stranger  to  such  famous  boats  as  the  ‘Volunteer  , the  Mayflower  , 
the  ‘Puritan’,  and  the  ‘Reliance’.  The  numerous  islands  off  the  Neck 
lend  great  picturesqueness  to  the  sea-view. 

As  we  approach  the  next  station,  the  notorious  Witch  Hill  (comp, 
p.  123)  is  seen  to  the  left. 

16  M.  Salem  (^Essex  House^  $ 2^/2-3),  the  mother-city  of  Massa- 
cliusetts.  is  a quiet  and  ancient  town  with  (1900)  35,906  inhah. 
and  a good  harhour  flanked  by  two  crumbling  forts.  Its  former  com- 
merce with  the  East  Indies  has  now  given  way  to  a small  coasting 


trade,  and  a few  manufactures  are  also  carried  on. 

Naumkeag,  on  the  site  of  Salem,  was  first  visited  by  Roger  Conant, 
one  of  the  Cape  Ann  immigrants,  in  1626,  and  a permanent  settlement 
was  made  here  bv  Gov.  Endicott  two  years  later.  Gov.  Winthrop  landed 
here  in  1630,  and*  for  a time  Salem  was  the  capital  of  Massachusetts.  In 
1692  Salem  was  the  scene  of  the  extraordinary  witchcraft  delusion,  of 
which  mention  is  made  below.  The  legislature  of  Massachusetts  met 
at  Salem  in  1774  (the  last  time  under  the  English  Crown)  and  issued  a 
call  for  a Continental  Congress.  Privateersmen  from  Salem  were  very 
active  during  the  war.  After  the  war  Salem  engaged  in  the  East 
trade,  and  many  of  its  citizens  attained  great  wealth  and  influence.  Indeed 
it  is  said  that  about  1810  a Salem  merchant  was  the  largest  ship-owner 
in  the  world.  Among  the  famous  natives  of  Salem  are  Nathaniel  Haw- 
thorne (1804-64),  who  was  Surveyor  of  the  Port  here  from 
W.  H.  Prescott  (1796-1859),  the  historian ; Maria  S.  Cummins  (1827-bb),  au- 
thor of  ‘The  Lamplighter’;  Peirce  (1809-fcO),  the  mathematician;  and  If.  Iv. 
Story,  the  sculptor  (1819-95).  Comp.  Osgood  and  s Historical 

Sketch  of  Salem’  (1879)  and  Hunt  and  Robinson's  ‘Visitors  Guide  . 


Essex  Institute,  132  Essex  St.,  contains  interesting  collec- 
tions of  historical  paintings,  portraits,  and  relics  (open  9-5);  and 
Plummer  Hall,  next  door,  on  the  site  of  Prescott’s  birthplace,  con- 
tains the  Salem  Athenaeum  Library,  Behind  Plummer  Hall  is  the 
First  Church,  the  oldest  Protestant  church  in  America  (1634;  apply 
to  the  Secretary,  Essex  Institute).  The  Peabody  Academy  of 
Science,  also  in  Essex  St.  (No.  161),  contains  ethnological  and 
natural  history  collections  and  the  East  India  Marine  Museum. 

At  the  head  of  Derby  Wharf,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  city,  is  the  old 


to  Portland. 


BEYERLY. 


9.  Route.  123 


Custom  House  in  wMcli  Hawthorne  was  employed  for  four  years 
(see  p.  122)  and  the  scene  of  the  introduction  to  ‘The  Scarlet  Let- 
ter’. The  quaint  gambrel -roofed  house  in  which  he  was  horn  is 
No.  27  Union  St.,  a narrow  side-street  extending  from  Essex  St.  to 
Derby  St.  The  Turner  House.,  54  Turner  St.,  is  pointed  out  as  the 
‘House  of  the  Seven  Gables’  and  is  shown  for  a small  fee. 

The  Roger  'Williams  House.,  310  Essex  St.,  is  said  to  be  that  in 
which  Roger  Williams  resided  in  1635-36,  and  also  to  have  been 
the  scene  of  the  preliminary  examinations  of  some  of  the  witches 
in  1692;  but  both  these  statements  seem  open  to  doubt.  The  County 
Court  House  contains  original  records  of  the  witch-trials.  Callows 
or  Witch  Hill,  on  which  the  witches  were  put  to  death,  is  1 M.  to 
the  W.  of  the  city  (near  the  tramway  to  Peabody  ; see  below). 

Danvers  or  Salem  Village,  the  actual  scene  of  the  outbreak  of  the  witch- 
craft delusion  of  1692,  lies  5 M.  to  the  W.  of  Salem,  on  the  old  Andover 
highroad  (electric  tramway).  Twenty  innocent  persons  were  put  to  death 
through  the  denunciations  of  eight  girls  (varying  in  age  from  11  to  20), 
who  met  in  the  house  of  Samuel  Parris,  the  too  credulous  minister  of  the 
parish.  The  house  has  been  pulled  down,  and  its  site  is  marked  only 
by  a slight  depression  in  the  soil.  Other  spots  that  became  memorable 
during  this  Reign  of  Terror  are  still  pointed  out^  and  a good  account 
of  it  will  be  found  in  books  by  Upham  and  Nevins  (1&93).  These  spots  all 
lie  in  the  township  of  Danvers.  The  farm-house  in  which  Oen.  Putnam 
(1718-90)  was  born  stands  about  1 M.  beyond  Salem  Village,  at  the  inter- 
section of  the  Andover  and  Newburyport  roads. 

About  2 M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Salem  (railway)  is  Peabody,  the  birthplace  of 
the  philanthropist  George  Peabody  (1795-1869).  The  Peabody  Institute,  which 
he  founded  and  endowed,  contains  the  jewelled  portrait  of  Queen  Victoria 
given  by  her  to  Mr.  Peabody.  He  is  buried  in  Harmony  Grove  Cemetery, 
a little  to  the  W.  A tramway-trip  may  also  be  taken  to  (20  min.)  Ihe 
WiUows,  a picnic  resort  overlooking  the  North  Shore  and  the  outer  harbour. 

A charming  *Dkive  may  be  taken  from  Salem  along  the  ‘North  Shore’ 
to  (2  M.)  Beverly,  (9  M.)  Manchester,  (12  M.)  Magnolia,  and  {ibM.)  Gloucester 
(comp.  p.  124),  traversing  beautiful  w^oods,  passing  numerous  fine  country- 
houses,  and  affording  views  of  the  sea.  The  drive  in  the  opposite  direction 
to  (4  M.)  Swampscott  and  (6  M.)  Lynn  is  also  attractive. 

A short  branch-line  runs  from  Salem  to  (4  M.)  Marblehead  (p.  121),  and 
it  is  also  the  junction  of  lines  to  Lawrence,  Wakefield,  Lowell,  etc. 

On  leaving  Salem  tbe  train  passes  tbrougb  a tunnel,  200  yds. 
long,  and  crosses  tbe  North  River. 

18  M.  Beverly  {Trafton  Ho.,  $ 2;  Cabot  Ho.,  $ 2),  another  ci- 
devant  seaport,  with  (1900)  13,884  inhab.,  now  given  over  to  the 
making  of  shoes,  is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  Gloucester  and 
Rockport.  In  1903  its  harbour  was  again  visited  by  ocean-going 
vessels. 

From  Beverly  to  Gloucester  and  Rockport,  17  M.,  railway  in  3/4  kr. 
(fare  43  c.).  This  line  follows  the  so-called  North  Shore,  with  its  fine  series 
of  beaches  and  the  innumerable  seaside  villas  of  well-to-do  Bostonians, 
to  the  extremity  of  Cape  Ann.  Among  the  numerous  authors  and  artists 
who  have  frequented  this  lovely  bit  of  sea-coast  are  Longfellow,  Holmes, 
Whittier,  Bayard  Taylor,  W.  M.  Hunt,  J.  Freeman  Clarke,  Susan  Hale, 
and  James  T.  Fields.  Passing  Montserrat,  Pride'' s Crossing,  Beverly  Farms, 
^d  West  Manchester,  all  with  handsome  country-houses,  we  reach  (7  M.) 
Manchester-by-the-Sea(i/a.scowomo,  from  $5^  Brownland  Cottages,  from  $3: 
Manchester  Ho.,  $ 2-3),  described  by  William  Black  as  ‘a  small,  scattered. 


124  Route  9.  GLOUCESTER.  From  Boston 


picturesque-looking  watering-place,  overlooking  Massachusetts  Bay,  the 
Bwiss-looking  cottages  of  wood  dotted  down  everywhere  on  the  high  rocks 
above  the  strand’.  One  of  its  special  features  is  the  Singing  Beac\  the 
white  sand  of  which  emits  a musical  sound  when  stirred.  The  Coolidge 
Memorial  Library  is  interesting.  — From  (9  M.)  Magnolia  Station  omni- 
buses run  to  (2V2  M.)  Magnolia  {Magnolia^  $3-5;  Ocean  Side^  from  $4; 
Hesperus^  from  $ 4 ; Aborn^  $ 4 ; Oak  Orove^  $ 2V2-3},  another  pleasant  little 
watering-place  on  a rocky  bluff,  adjoined  by  the  tine  Crescent  Beach.  The 
beautiful  woods  round  Magnolia  are  among  its  special  charms.  A little 
to  the  E.  is  the  wonderful  Rafe's  Chasm  (60  ft.  deep  and  6-10  ft.  wide), 
opposite  which  is  the  black  reef  of  Norman's  TToe,  immortalized  by  Long- 
fellow in  ‘The  Wreck  of  the  Hesperus’.  A handful  of  Penobscot  Indians 
generally  camp  near  Magnolia  in  summer  and  sell  baskets,  etc.  The  plants 
which  have  given  name  to  the  place  (in  bloom  in  July)  grow  in  a swamp 
near  the  station. 

13  M.  Gloucester  (Surfside,  from  $ 2),  a quaint  and  foreign-looking 
city  with  (1900)  26,121  inhab.,  is  one  of  the  largest  fishing-ports  in  the 
world,  employing  5-60(X)  men  in  its  fleets.  Among  the  foreign  vessels 
which  put  into  its  safe  and  capacious  harbour  are  many  Sicilian  barques, 
bringing  salt  for  the  fish-cnrers.  Gloucester  is  a great  resort  of  art- 
ists, owing  partly  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  town  itself  and  partly  to 
the  fine  scenery  of  Cape  Ann  (p.  123).  The  outer  harbour  is  protected  by 
Eastern  Voint.^  with  a lighthouse  at  its  extremity.  Here  lies  (2V2  M.)  East 
Gloucester  (Hawthorne  Inn,  $ 3;  Beachcroft,  Delphine,  etc.,  $21/2-3),  reached 
by  electric  tramway  from  the  station,  a pleasant  sea-bathing  resort,  afford- 
ing a striking  *View  of  many-spired  Gloucester.  Elisabeth  Stuart  Phelps 
(Mrs.  Ward)  has  her  summer-home  here  (see  her  ‘Old  Maid’s  Paradise’), 
and  Rudyard  Kipling  has  celebrated  Gloucester’s  fishing  folk  in  ‘Captnins 
Courageous’.  The  Bass  Rocks  and  Good  Harbor  Beach  (Thorwahl,  $ 4;  Moor- 
land, $ 21/2-5)  lie  a little  to  the  N.E.,  facing  the  twin  lighthouses  on 
Thatcher's  Island.  Near  West  Gloucester  lies  the  picturesque  Mount  Anne 
Park.  A favourite  outing  from  Gloucester  is  that  ^Round  the  Cape'  (14  M.), 
and  excursions  may  also  be  made  to  (3  M.)  Rafe's  Chasm  (see  above)  and 
to  Norman's  Woe  (see  above). 

The  railway  ends  at  (IT  M.)  Rockport.,  where  a huge  breakwater  has 
been  constructed  by  the  U.  S.  Government.  An  electric  tramway  runs 
hence,  passing  large  granite  quarries,  to  (2  M.)  Pigeon  Cove  (Ocean  View  Ho., 
Liawood,  $21/2-3),  a summer-resort  near  the  end  of  Cape  Ann.  Cars  also  run 
from  Rockport  to  the  (I1/2  M.)  Land's  End  (Turk’s  Head,  $ 3-5).  To  com- 
plete the  round  of  the  Cape  we  go  on  by  trolley  to  Lanesville.^  Bay  View., 
Annisquam  (Overlook,  $ 21/2-31/2),  and  Riverdale.,  and  so  back  to  Gloucester, 

Returning  to  the  main  line,  we  soon  reach  (23  M.)  Hamilton  (S' 
Wenham,  The  former  is  the  seat  of  the  Myopia  Hunt  CLuh^  with 
the  best  golf-links  in  New  England,  The  ice  of  Wenham  Lake  is 
known  almost  all  over  the  world ; the  ice-houses  are  seen  to  the 
left.  — 28  M.  Ipswich  (Agawam  Ho.,  $ 2-21/2}?  ^ quaint  little  town, 
with  4658  inhabitants.  We  cross  the  Parker  River. 

37  M.  Newburyport  {Wolfe  Tavern^  $21/2"^)?  ancient  sea- 
blown  city  at  the  mouth  of  the  Merrimac\  with  (1900)  14,478  in- 
hab., has,  like  other  old  New  England  coast-towns,  turned  from 
maritime  commerce  to  manufactures  (hoots,  cotton,  silver,  etc.). 
The  Public  Library  (State  St.)  occupies  an  old  Colonial  mansion  in 
which  Washington  and  Lafayette  were  entertained.  The  Marine 
Museum,  in  the  same  street,  contains  oversea  curiosities.  In  High 
St.  is  a good  Statue  of  Washington,  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward.  George 
Whitefleld  (1714-70),  the  famous  preacher,  is  buried  in  the  Old 
South  Church  (Federal  St.),  behind  which  is  the  house  in  which 


to  Portland. 


PORTSMOUTH. 


9.  Route.  125 


William  Lloyd  Garrison  (1805-79)  was  bom.  The  old  mansion 
of  the  eccentric  Lord  Timothy  Dexter  is  in  High  St. 

Electric  Cars  and  Steamboats  (on  the  Merrimac)  ply  daily  from  New- 
buryport  to  (4  M.)  Salisbury  Beach  {Cushing^  from  $1^  Seaside  Ho..,  $2). 
which  extends  for  5 M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Merrimac.  A tramway  runs  to 
(2^2  M.)  Plum  Island  {Plum  Island  Ho..,  $ 2V2-3),  a long  sand-dune  running 
S.  from  the  mouth  of  the  Merrimac  for  9-10  M.  A steamboat  also  ascends 
the  Merrimac  to  (11  M.)  Haverhill.  Other  points  of  interest  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood are  (372  M.)  Indian  HiU  Farm.,  the  home  of  Ben.  Perley  Poore 
(1820-87 ; relics);  the  DeviVs  Den.,  a cave  2 M.  to  the  S. ; the  Chain  Bridge 
and  Hawkswood,  on  the  Merrimac,  3 M.  to  the  N. 

A branch-railway  from  Newburyport  runs  to  (5M.)  long  the 

home  of  John  G.  Whittier  (1807-92),  who  has  celebrated  this  whole  neigh- 
bourhood in  his  poems.  His  house  is  maintained  as  a memorial  of  the  poet. 


In  leaving  Newburyport  we  cross  the  Merrimac  by  a bridge  600 
yds.  long  (view).  Beyond  (39  M.)  Salisbury  (electric  line  to  Salisbury 
Beach)  we  traverse  tbe  Folly  Hill  Woods  and  enter  New  Hampshire 
(‘Granite  State’).  Farther  on  we  cross  salt  marshes.  461/2  M.  Hamp- 
ton (Whittier,  $2-21/2)  is  the  station  for  Hampton  Beach  {^Boar’s 
Head,  $2-3;  Sea  View  Ho.,  $2-3),  3 M.  to  the  S.E.  (stages  at  the 
station),  and  from  (49  M.)  North  Hampton  stages  run  to  (31/9  M.) 
Eye  Beach  [Farragut,  from  $5;  Sea  View,  Sawyer  Ho.,  $3,  etc.), 
the  most  frequented  of  the  New  Hampshire  beaches.  At  the  n! 
end  of  the  part  of  Rye  Beach  known  as  Jenness  Beach  is  Straic 
Point,  a station  of  the  submarine  cable  to  England  and  also  a U.  S. 
life-saving  station.  An  electric  tramway  connects  Rye  Beach  with 
Portsmouth  (see  below).  — 611/2  M.  Greenland  is  the  station  for 
(21/2  M.)  the  N.  end  of  Rye  Beach. 

57  M.  Portsmouth  {^Rockingham,  from  $ 4 ; Kearsarge,  $ 2-3 ; 
Langdon,  $ 2),  the  only  seaport  of  New  Hampshire,  is  situated  on  a 
peninsula  3M.  from  the  mouth  of  the  Piscataqua.  It  is  a quaint  and 
quiet  old  town,  with  10,637  inhab.  and  pleasant  tree-shaded  streets. 
Many  of  the  old  Colonial  houses  are  interesting.  St.  Johns  Church, 
rebuilt  in  1806,  contains  some  curious  old  relics.  The  Athenaeum 
contains  a library  and  museum.  On  Continental  or  Fernald^s  Island 
in  the  river,  is  the  Kittery  U.  S.  Navy  Yard  (ferry  from  Daniel  St ) 
where  the  ‘Kearsarge’  was  built.  This  island  is  connected  by  a bridge 
with  Kittery,  a village  on  the  N.  bank,  with  some  interesting  Col- 
onial houses.  T.  B.  Aldrich  (b.  1836),  James  T.  Fields  (1817-81), 
and  B.  P.  Shillaber  (‘Mrs.  Partington’;  1814-90)  were  born  at  Ports- 
mouth. In  Vaughan  St.  (No.  32)  is  tbe  house  to  which  Daniel 
Webster  brought  his  young  bride  in  1808.  Seavey's  Island  was 
occupied  in  1898  by  the  captive  seamen  of  Adm.  Cervera’s  fleet. 

Stages  run  daily  to  (272  M.)  Newcastle  (■''Wentworth  Ho.,  from  8 5)  a 
at  tbe  mouth  of  the  harbour.  Close  hj,  at  Little 
Harbor,  is  the  interesting  old  mansion  of  the  Wentworth  family  (1750) 

From  Portsmooth  to  the  Isles  of  Shoals,  10  M.,  steamer  several 

shSre  ^freouentpH ■ Shoals  are  nine  rocky  islands,  6-9  M.  from 

as  summer-resorts  on  account  of  their  pure  sea-air  and 
Z Z Appledore  (Appledore  hT 

5 4,  400  beds)  and  Star  Island  (Oceanic  Ho.,  $ 372,  800  beAs).  On  Whitl 


126  Route  9. 


ANDOYER. 


From  Boston 


Island^  to  the  S.W.,  is  a powerful  lighthouse.  See  Celia  Thaxter's  ‘Among 
the  Isles  of  Shoals’  and  LowelVs  ‘Appledore’. 

Fkom  Portsmodth  to  York  Beach,  10  M.,  railway  in  ^4  — York 

Beach  {Marshall^  Alhracca^  $2i/2-3V2,  Yorkshire  Imi^  $3,  Varrell  Ho.^  $2-3, 
and  Harmon^  $21/2-3,  station  York  Harbor;  Garrison^  $21/2-3,  at  the  Long 
Sands,  Long  Beach  station;  *Passaconway  Inriy  $5,  Young's^  $2i/2-4,  Fair- 
mount^  $21/2,  Ocean  Ho.^  $2  31/2,  Atlantic^  Wahnita^  $2-3,  etc.,  York  Beach 
station)  is  another  long  stretch  of  sand,  with  numerous  hotels  and  summer- 
cottages.  At  its  N.  end  is  Gape  Neddick^  with  the  rocky  ‘Nubble’  (light- 
house) oflf  its  extremity ; and  41/2  M.  farther  to  the  N.  is  -^Bald  Head  Cliff 
(85  ft.  high).  To  the  N.  of  this  is  Ogunquit  Beach  (The  Ontio,  $3-31/2; 
Cliff  Ho.,  $2-3).  York  Harbor  is  the  fashionable  resort,  but  the  Passa- 
conway  Inn,  some  way  to  the  N.  of  York  Beach  station,  is  also  frequented 
by  the  best  class  of  visitors.  Inland  from  York  Beach  rises  (6  M.)  Mt. 
Agamenticus  (673  ft. ; *View). 

On  leaving  Portsmouth  we  cross  the  Piscataqua  and  enter  Maine 
(‘Pine  Tree  State’),  a state  with  1500  lakes  and  ponds  of  an  aggregate 
area  of  2300  sq.  M.,  5000  rivers  and  streams,  and  nearly  20,000  sq.  M. 
of  forest,  harbouring  immense  quantities  of  game.  At  (67  M.)  Conway 
Junction  diverges  a line  to  North  Conway  (p.  160).  At  (74  M.)  Nortk 
Berwick  the  Eastern  Division  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  R.  R.  crosses 
the  Western  Division,  and  becomes  in  reality  the  W.  or  inland  route. 
[The  stations  on  both  routes  are  the  same,  but  as  most  of  them  lie 
near  the  sea  they  are  better  described  in  R.  9 b (see  below).] 

108  M.  Portland^  see  p.  128. 

b.  By  the  Western  Division  of  the  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad. 

115  M.  Railwat  in  3-4  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

The  train  starts  from  the  N.  Union  Station  (p.  94)  and  follows 
practically  the  same  course  as  the  E.  Division  till  beyond  the 
Mystic  (comp.  p.  121).  It  then  keeps  due  N. , while  the  E.  Divi- 
sion turns  to  the  N.E.  7 M.  Melrose^  with  a winter-resort  named 
the  Langwood  Hotel.  To  the  left  are  "^Middlesex  Fells ^ 1800  acres 
Ol  forest,  crag,  and  pond,  reserved  as  a public  park.  — • 10  M. 
Wakefield^  the  junction  of  a line  to  (30  M.)  Newburyport  (p.  124). 

23  M.  Andover  [Phillips  Inn^  well  spoken  of,  $ 2-3),  an  academic 
town  with  (1900)  6813  inhab.,  is  best  known  through  the  Andover 
Theological  Seminary,  the  chief  educational  institution  in  America 
of  the  OongregationaUsts  (about  25  students)-.  Phillips  Academy 
(400  pupils),  the  Panchard  High  School,  and  the  Abbott  Female 
Seminary  also  enjoy  a considerable  reputation.  Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher 
Stowe  (1811-96)  moved  to  Andover  just  after  publishing  ‘Uncle 
Tom’s  Cabin’  (comp.  p.  130),  and  is  buried  in  the  private  cemetery 
of  the  trustees  of  Phillips  Academy.  Her  house  is  now  the  Phillips 
Inn  (see  above).  Mrs.  Ward  (Eliz.  Stuart  Phelps)  was  born  here 
and  wrote  ‘The  Gates  Ajar’  in  the  still-standing  Phelps  House.  At 
North  Andover  (on  the  Peabody  & Lawrence  branch)  are  the  large 
Stevens  Cotton  Mills,  the  summer-home  of  the  late  Bishop  Phillips 
Brooks  (p.  105),  and  the  homestead  of  Anne  Bradstreet  (d.  1672), 
the  first  American  poetess.  — 26  M.  South  Lawrence  lies  on  the  right 


to  Portland. 


HAVERHILL. 


9.  Route.  127 


bank  of  tbe  Merrimac^  opposite  Lawrence  {Franklin  Ho. $2-3; 
Brunswick,  $ 2),  one  of  the  largest  industrial  cities  of  New  England, 
with  (1900)  62,559  inhabitants.  Its  numerous  large  and  substantial 
Cotton  and  Woollen  Mills,  employing  over  20,000  hands  and  pro- 
ducing annually  200  million  yds.  of  cloth,  line  both  sides  of  the 
Merrimac  and  are  driven  by  water-power  supplied  by  the  construc- 
tion of  a huge  dam  in  1845  (fall  of  28  rt. ; 10,000  horse-power; 
value  of  manufactures  in  1900,  $44,703,278). 

The  Pacific  Mills,  with  5590  hands,  are  among  the  largest  cotton  and 
worsted  mills  in  the  world;  their  annual  produce  amounts  to  112,009,000  yds. 
of  material,  their  pay  roll  to  440,000/.  The  Washington  Mills,  with  650b  hands, 
producing  14,000,000  lbs.  of  yarn  annually,  besides  other  goods,  is  pro- 
bably the  largest  textile  mill  of  any  kind  in  the  world. 

Beyond  South  Lawrence  we  descend  along  the  right  bank  of  the 
Merrimac  t to  (32^/4  M.)  Bradford  (with  an  old  and  famous  acad- 
emy for  girls)  and  (33  74  M.)  Haverhill  {Webster,  $272),  a shoe- 
manufacturing town  with  (1900)  37,175  inhab.  (manufactures  in 
1900,  $24,394,530).  In  Main  St.  is  a poor  statue  of  Hannah 
Diiston  (p.  153).  The  poet  Whittier  was  born  in  1807  near  Lake 
Kenoza  (the  scene  of  ‘Snowbound’;  house  marked  by  a bronze 
tablet),  1 M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Haverhill.  A branch-line  runs  from 
Haverhill  to  (16  M.)  Newbury  port  (p.  124). 

We  now  leave  the  Merrimac  and  enter  New  Hampshire  (p.  125). 
41  M.  Newton  Junction , for  Merrimac.  To  the  left  lies  Country 
Pond;  to  the  right  rises  Morse  Hill  (312  ft.).  51  M.  Exeter  (Rail. 
Restaurant;  pop.  4922),  with  another  Phillips  Academy,  which 
has  numbered  among  its  pupils  Daniel  Webster,  George  Bancroft, 
and  Edw.  Everett.  To  the  right  flows  Exeter  River.  — 68  M.  Dover 
(American  Ho.,  $2-272))  ^ cotton  and  woollen  manufacturing  city, 
with  13,207  inhab.,  settled  in  1623,  lies  on  the  Cocheco. 

Dover  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  (28  M.)  Alton  Bag,  on  Lake  Winni- 
pesaukee  (p.  155),  and  to  Portsmouth  (p.  125). 

Entering  Maine  (p.l26),  we  cross  the  Sahnon  FalU  at  (72M.) 
Salmon  Falls,  with  cotton-mills;  and  at  (78  M.)  North  Berwick  the 
W.  Division  intersects  the  E.  Division  (see  p.  126).  85  M.  Wells 

Beach  (Bay  View  Ho.,  $ 1-2).  To  the  right  we  have  a view  of  the  sea. 
From  (90  M.)  Kennebunk  a line  runs  to  (5  M.)  Kennebunkport 
{Old  Fort  Inn,  $4-6;  Oceanic,  $2-5;  Cliff  Ho.,  $3;  Parker  Ho., 
Arlington,  Vonantnm,  $272-3),  an  old  maritime  village  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Kennebunk,  now  in  repute  among  summer  visitors,  who  con- 
gregate chiefly  on  Cape  Arundel. 

99  M.  Biddeford  (Thatcher,  $2-3;  Goose  Rocks,  $1-2)  and 
(100  M.)  Saco  (Saco  Ho.,  $2),  two  busy  towns  (16,145  and  6122 
inhab.),  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Saco  River,  which  here  falls  55  ft. 
and  furnishes  power  for  cotton-mills,  saw-mills,  and  machine-shops. 

Steamers  descend  the  Saco  to  (8  M.)  Biddeford  Pool  (Evans  Ho.,  $ 2V2)  at 
its  mouth,  connecting  at  Gamp  Ellis  with  Orchard  Beach  Railway  (p.  128). 


t Some  trains  cross  the  Merrimac  and  enter  Lawrence 


proper. 


128  Route  9. 


PORTLAND. 


104  M.  Old  Orchard  Beach  (*Old  Orchard  Ho.^  from  $4;  Fiske^ 
Everett^  $2-5;  Seashore,  $3-4;  with  600  beds,  from  $3; 

Aldine,  $2^/2-372)  Lawrence  flo.,  $2-272)}  one  of  the  best  and  most 
popular  bathing-beaches  in  New  England.  The  pier,  1950  ft.  in 
leagth,  is,  perhaps,  the  longest  ocean-pier  in  the  world.  The  train 
runs  close  to  the  beach,  with  the  large  hotels  to  the  left.  The  beach 
extends  from  the  vSaco  to  (10  M.)  Scarborough;  the  beach  railway 
runs  from  Camp  Ellis  (see  above)  to  Old  Orchard  Beach  Junction, 
on  the  E.  Division. 

From  (109  M.)  Scarborough  omnibuses  run  to  (3  M.)  Scarborough 
Beach  (*Kirkwood  Inn,  $272"^;  Atlantic,  $ 272"6),  2M.  to  the  S. 
of  which  is  ProuVs  Neck  (Jocelyn  Ho.,  $ 272-472;  Checkley, 
$ 272-372;  Southgate  Ho.,  272)-  — Farther  on,  the  train  crosses 
the  Fore  Rioer  and  enters  the  Union  Station  at  — 


115  M.  Portland.  — Hotels.  Lafayette,  Congress  St.,  cor.  of  Park 
St.,  with  dining-room  at  the  top  of  the  house  (view),  $3-5;  Congress 
Square,  $3-5;  Falmouth  House,  Middle  St.,  in  the  centre  of  the  town, 
§3V2-5;  Preble  House,  Monument  Sq.,  $3-5;  Columbia,  $272-4;  West 
End,  opposite  the  Union  Station,  $ 272-3V2* 

Steamboats  run  regularly  from  Portland  to  Boston  (daily,  in  8 hrs.; 
$ 1,  stateroom  $ 1-2),  New  York  ($  5,  including  cabin-berth,  stateroom  extra), 
Eastpori  and  St.  John,  Ml.  Desert  and  Jonesport  (see  p.  132),  and  the  Kennebec 
River.  Small  steamers  ply  frequently  from  the  Custom  House  Wharf  to 
Harpswell,  Peak  Island,  Cushing's  Island,  and  other  points  in  Casco  Bay.  In 
winter  Portland  is  the  American  port  of  the  Dominion  and  Allan  Ocean 
Steamers.  . , , ^ ^ -i 

Electric  Tramways  run  through  the  principal  streets,  to  the  railway 
stations,  and  to  various  points  in  the  environs. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  J.  B.  Keating, 

Portland,  the  largest  city  in  Maine,  with  (1900)  50,145  inhab., 
is  finely  situated  on  a hilly  peninsula  projecting  into  Casco  Bay. 
Its  harbour  is  deep  and  well  protected  by  six  forts,  and  its  commerce 
with  the  West  Indies  and  Great  Britain  is  considerable.  The  number 
of  trees  in  its  streets  have  earned  for  it  the  name  of  ‘Forest  City’. 

The  town  was  originally  founded  in  1632  and  was  at  first  named 
Machigonne  or  Casco  and  afterwards  Falmouth.  It  suffered  severely  at  the 
hands  of  the  French  and  the  Indians  and  in  1775  was  almost  entirely  de- 
stroyed by  the  British.  After  the  war  it  was  rebuilt  and  in  178b  received 
the  name  of  Portland.  Among  the  distinguished  natives  of  Portland  are 
Longfellow  (1807-82),  N.  P.  Willis  (1807-61),  ‘Fanny  Fern  (Mrs.  Parton; 
1811-72),  Neal  Dow  (1803-97),  Thomas  B.  Reed  (d.  1902),  and  Commodore 
Preble  (1161-1807),  of  Tripolitan  War  fame. 

Most  of  the  principal  buildings  are  in  Congress  Street,  which 
rims  the  whole  length  of  the  peninsula,  from  the  Western  Prom- 
enade on  BramhalV s Hill  (175  ft.)  to  the  Eastern  Promenade  on 
Munjoy's  Hill  (160  ft.).  The  Observatory  (fee)  on  the  latter  affords 
an  excellent  *View  of  the  city,  the  bay,  the  White  Mts.  (p.  158), 
and  the  Sandwich  Mts.  (panorama  by  Abner  Lowell).  Near  the 
middle  of  Congress  St.  is  the  City  Hall,  a large  light-coloured 
building,  with  a dome;  and  hard  by,  in  Middle  St.,  is  the  tasteful 
Post  Office,  with  a Corinthian  portico.  A little  to  the  E.  of  the 
City  Hall,  Congress  St.  passes  Lincoln  Park  (right)  and  the  Roman 


BRUNSWICK. 


10.  Route.  129 


Catholic  Cathedral  (left),  and  a little  farther  on  is  the  Eastern 
Cemetery,  with  the  graves  of  Commodore  Preble  (p.  128)  and 
Commanders  Burrowes  and  Blythe  of  the  ‘Enterprise’  and  ‘Boxer’ 
(p.  133).  At  the  intersection  of  Congress  St.  and  State  St.  (see 
below)  is  a good  Statue  of  Longfellow,  by  Franklin  Simmons.  The 
War  Monument  in  Monument  Sq.,  which  was  the  site  of  a gun-battery 
in  1775,  is  by  the  same  artist. 

State  Street,  leading  from  Ueering’s  Oaks  (see  below)  to  the 
harbour,  contains  some  good  specimens  of  old  Colonial  houses  and 
three  tine  churches  (Congregational , St.  Lulce's  Cathedral,  and 
St.  Dominies).  — The  house  in  which  Longfellow  was  born  stands 
at  the  corner  of  Fore  St.  and  Hancock  St.,  close  to  the  Grand  Trunk 
R.  R.  Station.  The  Wadsworth  Mansion  (adm.  25  c.),  in  which  he 
lived,  is  next  door  to  the  Preble  Hotel  (see  p.  128).  It  was  erected 
by  Gen.  Peleg  Wadsworth,  the  poet’s  grandfather,  in  1785-86;  and 
an  addition  was  built  to  it  in  1903,  to  contain  the  library  of  the 
Historical  Society. 

Among  the  other  chief  buildings  are  the  Custom  House,  near 
the  Boston  steamboat  - wharf ; the  Maine  General  Hospital;  the 
TJniversalist  Church,  with  an  organ  of  5000  pipes;  and  the  buildings 
of  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  the  Natural  History  Society,  and  the  Maine 
Historical  Society  & Public  Library  (52,000  vols.).  Peering'' s Oaks 
Park  lies  a little  to  the  N.  of  the  W.  end  of  Congress  St. 

The  Environs  of  Portland  are  attractive.  Pleasant  drives  or  trolley- 
rides  may  be  taken  to  Evergreen  Cemetery  (2V2  M.);  to  Riverton  Park  (572  M.)*, 
to  Falmouth  Foreside  (6  M.  to  the  K.),  Underwood  Springs^  and  Yarmouth 
Foreside  (12  M.)^  and  to  (3  M.)  Gape  Cottage  Park  (with  theatre,  casino, 
and  restaurant),  and  (9  M.)  the  Twin  Lighthouses,  both  on  "^Cape  Elizabeth, 
to  the  S.  Among  the  pleasantest  of  the  longer  trips  may  be  mentioned 
that  to  the  Bay  of  Naples  (p.  144;  there  and  back  $ 2). 

*Oasco  Bay , an  admirable  yachting  water,  is  crowded  with  pretty 
wooded  islands,  many  of  which  are  favourite  summer-resorts,  especially 
(372  M.)  Cushing''s  Island  (fine  cliffs),  Peak  Island  (272  M.;  Peak  Island  Ho., 
$2-3;  Coronado-TJnion  Ho.,  $2,  and  many  others;  frequented  by  day- 
excursionists  ; summer-theatre),  Long  Island  (4  M.;  Dirigo  Ho.,  $ 2;  dranite 
Spring  Ho.,  $1-3),  and  Little  Cheheague  (6  M. ; Sunnyside,  $2-3). 


10.  From  Portland  to  Mount  Desert.  Moosehead  Lake. 

a.  Vi^  Bangor. 

190  M.  Maine  Central  Railroad  to  (180  M.)  Bar  Harbor  Ferry  in 
572-774  brs. ; steam-ferry  thence  to  (10  M.)  Bar  Harbor  in  ^4  hr.  (through- 
fare  $5;  parlor-car  $1.25,  sleeper  $2).  From  Boston  to  Bar  Harbor  by 
this  route  in  972-12  hrs.  (fare  $7,  parlor-car  $1.50,  sleeper  $ 2). 

Portland,  see  p.  128.  The  line  runs  to  the  N.,  affording  a good 
retrospect  of  the  city,  and  soon  crosses  the  Presumpscot.  11  M. 
Cumberland  Junction  (p.  139).  We  cross  the  Grand  Trunk  Rail- 
way at  (15  M.)  Yarmouth  Junction  (comp.  p.  143).  — 30  M.  Bruns- 
wick (Tontine,  burned  down  in  Jan.,  1904;  Brunswick  Ho.,  $ IV2; 
Rail.  Restaurant) , a flourishing  town  of  6806  inhab.,  lies  at  the 
head  of  the  tidal  waters  of  the  Androscoggin,  which  forms  three 

Baedeker’s  Tnited  States.  3rd  Edit.  9 


130  Route  10, 


AUGUSTA. 


From  Portland 


small  falls  here.  It  is  the  seat  of  Bowdoin  College  (near  the  station), 
one  of  the  leading  institutions  of  learning  in  New  England  (350- 
400  students).  The  Walker  Art  Building,  belonging  to  the  college, 
is  adorned  with  frescoes  by  Elihu  Yedder,  Abbott  Thayer,  Kenyon 
Cox,  and  John  Lafarge,  and  contains  about  150  paintings,  including 
portraits  of  Madison  and  Jefferson  by  Gilbert  Stuart  and  works  attri- 
buted to  Hogarth,  Brouwer,  Berghem,  Hondecoeter,  Yan  Dyck  (*Por- 
trait),  Rubens,  and  Teniers.  'Uncle  Tom’s  Cabin’  was  written  at 
Brunswick,  while  Mrs.  Stowe’s  husband  was  a professor  at  Bowdoin 
(pron. ‘Bowden’)  College  (1851-52).  Longfellow  was  also  a professor 
at  Bowdoin  College  in  1829-35;  and  Hawthorne,  Longfellow,  Gov- 
ernor Andrew  (p.  117),  and  Chief  Justice  Fuller  are  among  its  alumni. 

Brunswick  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Bath  and  (56  M.)  Rockland  (see 
R.  10b).  Lines  also  run  hence  to  (20  M.)  Lewiston  (p.  139)  and  Leeds  Junc- 
tion (p.  139). 

Beyond  Brunswick  we  cross  the  Androscoggin  and  run  to  the 
N.  along  the  Kennebec  (to  the  right).  48  M.  Icehoro,  with  the 
largest  ice-houses  in  the  world  (on  the  river;  1,000,000  tons  of 
ice  are  shipped  from  the  Kennebec  yearly  to  all  parts  of  the  world). 
— 56  M.  Gardiner  (Evans  Ho.,  $ 2-2^2))  a city  with  5500  inhab., 
engaged  in  wood-sawing  in  summer  and  ice-cutting  in  winter,  is 
also  connected  with  Augusta  by  a picturesque  electric  tramway, 
running  through  Hallowell  and  along  the  W.  bank  of  the  Kennebec. 

63  M.  Augusta  [Augusta  Ho,,  Cony  Ho.,  $ 2-3),  the  capital  of 
Maine,  with  11,683  inhab.,  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Kennebec, 
about  Y2  l>elow  the  huge  Kennebec  Dam,  which  affords  ample 
water-power  for  its  factories.  The  principal  buildings  are  the  Post 
Office,  the  Lithgow  Library,  the  City  Hall,  and  the  solid  granite 
*State  House,  the  dome  of  which  commands  a beautiful  *Yiew.  On 
the  E.  side  of  the  river  are  the  huge  State  Insane  Asylum,  and 
the  Kennebec  Arsenal.  Augusta  was  the  home  of  J.  G.  Blaine 
(d.  1893).  There  is  a Soldiers"  Monument.  In  1898  a memorial 
tablet  was  placed  on  the  historic  Fort  Western  (1754).  Steamers  ply 
from  Augusta  to  Gardiner  (see  above),  connecting  with  large  boats 
for  Portland,  Boston,  etc. 

In  leaving  Augusta  we  cross  the  Kennebec,  which  now  runs  to 
our  left.  Beyond  (80  M.)  Winslow  we  cross  it  again,  near  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Sebasticook,  — 82  M.  Waterville  (Elmwood  Ho., 
$2-31/2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  with  9477  inhab. , large  cotton-mills, 
and  a Baptist  college  (Colby  College;  200  students),  is  the  junction 
of  the  Lewiston  division  of  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  (see  p.  139) 
and  of  a branch-line  to  (18  M.)  Skowhegan  (5180  inhab.).  Gen.  Ben 
Butler  (1818-93)  was  a student  of  Colby  College.  On  the  Kennebec 
near  Waterville  are  the  Laconic  Falls.  — We  now  cross  and  leave 
the  Kennebec,  and  pass  over  the  watershed  between  that  river  and 
the  Penobscot.  From  (96  M.)  Burnham  a branch-line  runs  to  (34  M.) 
Belfast  (4615  inhab.),  on  Penobscot  Bay ; and  from  (103  M.)  Pittsfield 
another  runs  to  (8M.)  Hartland.  To  the  right  flows  the  Sebasticook. 


to  Mount  Desert.  BANGOR.  10.  Route.  131 

110  M.  Newport  is  the  junction  of  a line  running  N.  to  Dexter., 
Dover,  and  (66  M.)  Moosehead  Lake  (see  below). 

137  M.  Bangor  (Bangor  Ho.,  well  spoken  of,  $ 2t/2"6  ; Penobscot 
Exchange,  Bangor  Exchange,  Windsor,  $2-272  5 Rail.  Restaurant), 
the  third  city  in  Maine,  with  21,850  inhab.  , is  commandingly 
situated  on  the  Penobscot,  at  the  head  of  navigation  and  60  M.  from 
the  ocean.  Its  chief  industry  is  the  sawing  and  shipment  of  timber, 
about  five  million  ft.  of  lumber  being  annually  floated  down  to  it 
from  the  vast  forests  of  Northern  Maine.  Among  its  chief  buildings 
are  the  new  Court  House,  the  City  Hall,  the  Custom  House,  the 
Theological  Seminary,  and  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building.  St.  John's 
Church  (R.  0.)  contains  soome  good  stained  glass. 

From  Bangor  to  St.  John  (in  New  Brunswick),  205  M.,  railway  in 
63/4-71/4  brs.  (from  Boston  to  St.  John,  450  M.,  in  15-17  hrs.).  This  line 
is  a continuation  of  that  described  above  from  Portland  to  Bangor,  and 
passes  through  a district  of  great  importance  to  the  sportsman.  The  follow- 
ing are  the  chief  stations:  — 8V2  M.  Orono,  with  the  University  of  Maine 
(550  students) ; 13  M.  Oldtown,  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Moosehead  Lake 
(see  below).  The  second  railway  in  the  United  States,  opened  in  1836,  ran 
from  Oldtown  to  Bangor.  — 59  M.  Mattawamlceag , the  junction  of  a line 
to  Grreenville  (Moosehead  Lake)  and  thence  to  Lake  Megantic  and  Sher- 
brooke (p.  132).  — Beyond  (115  M.)  Vancehoro  (Rail.  Restaurant)  the  train 
crosses  the  St.  Croix,  enters  New  Brunswiclc  (Canada),  and  passes  on  to  the 
Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  121  M.  McAdam  Junction,  for  the  line  to  (43  M.) 
St.  Andrews  ("Algonquin  Hotel,  $ 3-5).  — 161  M.  Fredericton  Junction,  for 
(22  M.)  Fredericton  {Quee^i's,  Barker,  $ 2-2V2;  pop.  7117),  the  capital  of 
New  Brunswick,  whence  we  may  descend  the  St.  John  River  (fine  scenery) 
by  steamer  to  (84  M.)  St.  John  (see  Baedeker'' s Canada).  — 205  M.  St.  John 
{Boyal,  $3;  Dufferin,  $21/2-3*,  Victoria,  $2-3;  New  Victoria,  $2-21/2),  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  New  Brunswick  (pop.  40,711)  and  eighth  city 
of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  finely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John 
River.  For  details,  see  Baedeker''s  Canada. 

From  Bangor  to  Greenville  ( Moosehead  Lake),  89  M.,  Bangor  tf’  Aroos- 
took Railroad  in  4 hrs.  (fare  $2.90).  This  line  diverges  to  the  left  from 
the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  at  (13  M.)  Oldtown  (see  above)  and  traverses  a sparsely 
peopled  district,  with  some  picturesque  scenery.  — At  (40  M.)  Milo  Junction, 
the  Greenville  branch  diverges  to  the  left  (W.)  from  the  main  line  to  Van 
Buren  (see  p.  132).  — 53  M.  Dover  is  the  junction  of  the  line  from  Newport 
and  Dexter  (see  above),  which  offers  an  alternative  route  from  Bangor  to 
Greenville.  — 89  M.  Greenville  {Moosehead  Inn,  Eveleth  Ho.,  $ 2-3),  at  the 
S.  end  of  Moosehead  Lake. 

^Moosehead  Lake,  the  largest  in  Maine,  with  400  M.  of  shore-line 
(35  M.  long,  1-15  M.  wide),  lies  about  1020  ft.  above  the  sea  and  is 
drained  by  the  Kennebec  River.  Its  waters  abound  in  trout  and  other 
fish,  and  the  forests  surrounding  it  are  well  stocked  with  moose,  caribou, 
deer,  and  ruffled  grouse.  Black  flies  and  mosquitoes  are  very  troublesome 
here  in  .Tune  and  July.  About  25  steamers  ply  on  the  lake. — From  Green- 
ville a small  steamer,  connecting  with  the  regular  trains,  plies  in  summer 
to  (17  M.)  Mt.  Kineo  (1760  ft.;  *View),  which  projects  into  the  lake^  on 
the  E.  side,  so  as  to  narrow  it  down  to  a channel  1 M.  across.  The  *'Mt. 
Kineo  Hotel  (from  $ 3 ; 500  beds)  is  a favourite  resort  of  anglers  and  their 
families.  The  steamer  goes  on  from  Mt.  Kineo  to  (18  M.)  the  N.  end  of 
the  lake,  whence  a portage  of  2 M.  leads  to  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Penobscot  River.  Other  steamers  make  the  round  trip  every  week-day. 
Enterprising  travellers  may  descend  the  Penobscot  and  the  lakes  along  it 
in  birch-bark  canoes  (with  guides)  to  Mattawamkeag  (see  above);  6-8  days). 
Canoe-trips  may  also  be  made,  from  the  head  of  Moosehead  Lake  via  the 
Allagash  and  St.  John  Rivers  to  Fort  Kent  or  Van  Buren  (see  p.  132).  A 

9* 


132  Route  10. 


ELLSWORTH. 


From  Portland 


good  view  is  obtained  to  the  E.  oi  Mt.  Kiaadn  or  Katahdin  (5200  ft.),  Mdiich 
is  also  visible  from  Moosebead  Lake  (to  the  N.E.)  in  clear  weather.  — Green- 
ville is  also  a station  on  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  from  St  John  via 
Mattawamkeag  (comp.  p.  131),  to  Lake  Meg  antic  (84  M.  from  Greenville  •’ fre- 
quented by  sportsmen)  and  Sherbrooke  (151  M.  from  Greenville;  see  p ’l31) 
This  line  traverses  an  excellent  sporting  district  (comp.  Baedeker's  Canada). 

From  Bangor  to  Fort  Kent  (219  M.)  and  Van  Boren  (234  M.)  Bangor  <$: 
Aroostook  Railroad  in  8 hrs.  (fares  $6.40,  $8.65;  parlor-car  to  Caribou  $1* 
slepper,  $ 2).  This  railway,  completed  in  1896,  opens  up  the  hitherto  little 
accessible  Aroostook  Region',  which  is  full  of  opportunities  for  the  sports- 
man and  angler.  The  arrangeinents  for  guides,  camps,  and  inns-are  similar 
to  those  in  the  Moosehead  district.  Full  information  may  be  obtained  from 
the  Traffic  Manager  of  the  railway,  at  Bangor.  — From  Bangor  to  (40  M.) 
Mtlo  Junction.^  see  p.  131.  At  (46  M.)  Brownville  Junction.,  where  a short 
branch-line  diverges  to  (9  M.)  the  Katahdin  Iron  Works  (Silver  Lake  Ho  ) 
we  cross  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  (comp.  Baedeker's  Canada)  We 
then  traverse  the  districts  of  Schoodic  and  Sehoois  Lakes,  on  which  are 
numerous  camps  and  sporting  stations.  73  M.  Norcross  (Norcross  Ho  $ 2) 
for  Twin  Lakes  and  for  the  (18  M.)  Debsconeag  Lakes,  a fine  sporting  centre 
reached  by  steamer  and  canoe  (Camp,  $ 2).  80  M.  Millinocket  (Great  Northern 
Hotel,  f 2-272),  for  Lake.  — 90  M.  Stacyville  (East  Branch  Ho., 

f ^ (Aroostook  Ho.,  $1)  are  the  nearest  rail,  stations 

above),  which  rises  about  19  M.  to  the  W — From 
iWiM.)  Patten  Junction  a short  line  runs  to  (6  M.)  Patten  (Patten  Ho., 
Palmer  Ho.,  p),  a sporting  centre.  — At  (124  M.)  Ashland  Junction  the 
kne  forks.  The  right  branch  runs  to  the  E.  to  (141  M.)  Houlton  (Snell  Ho 
Exchange,  $ 2),  where  it  connects  with  the  C.  P.  R.  (comp.  Baedeker'l 
Canada)  and  thence  to  the  N.  to  (180  M.)  Fort  Fairfield  Junction  (for  a line 
to  Tort  Fmrfield  and  Aroostook,  see  Baedeker's  Canada),  Caribou  (200  M.  • 
^ughan,  Burleigh,  $ 2),  and  (234  M.)  Van  Buren  (Van  Buren  Hotel,  $ 2). 
[From  Caribou  a short  branch-line  leads  to  (16  M.)  Limestone  (Bangor  & 
Aroostook  Ho.,  $ IV2).]  — The  left  branch  runs  to  the  N.  from  Ashland 

(Ashland  Ho.,  Exchange,  $ IV2) 
and  (219  ^l.)  Fort  Kent  (Eagle,  Morneault,  $2),  which  is  connected  by  ferry 
across  the  St.  John  with  Clairs,  in  Canada  (see  Baedeker's  Canada). 

Tbe  Bar  Harbor  brancL  crosses  the  Penobscot  and  runs  from 
Bangor  toward  tbe  S.E.  — 167  M.  Ellsworth,  a sbip-building  place 
with  4297  inbab.,  at  tbe  bead  of  navigation  of  Union  River.  We  pass 
Green  Lake  (well  stocked  with  land-locked  salmon  and  trout)  on  tbe 
left  and  another  small  lake  on  tbe  right.  At  (173  M.)  Washington 
Junction  we  have  our  first  view  of  Mt.  Desert  (right). 

From  Washington  .Junction  to  Eastport  or  Calais,  102  M.,  railway 

shortest  route  from  Boston  to  the 
7,  - points  (for  the  sea-route,  see  p.  141)  and  runs  through  a region 
o/ii/  Cown^y)  abounding  in  game,  lakes,  and  ponds.  — 9 M Franklin' 

^4  /2  M.  Unionville;  29  M.  Cherryfield  (1859  inhab.)  ; 35  M.  Harrington;  3872  m! 
^olwmbta;  ^.1V2  M.  Falls;  m M.  Jonesboro;  5372  ^ WhUneyville ; 

wiv  Machias,  the  nearest  rail- 

way-stakon  to  {^^(2  M.)  Jonesport  (p.  134),  the  line  turns  towards  the  N.  . 
75  M.  Marion.  — At  (8b  M.)  Ayer's  Junction  the  line  forks,  one  branch 
Pembroke.  (9472  M.)  Perry,  and  (102  M ) East- 
port  p 142b  while  the  other  continues  to  the  N.  to  (9872  M.)  St.  Croix 
iZtT  ^ 1^2).  where  we  connect  with  the  Canadian 

uncTfo^n  /f  n ‘“T?-'  BatdeUr's  Canada).  [St.  Croix  is  the 

branch-line  to  (17  M ) Princeton,  the  starting-point  for  Grand 

fnfrte^s  ^ Other  fishing-resorts.  Good 

quarters  may  he  had  at  Sunset  Camp  ($  2),  Ouananiche  Lodge,  etc.) 

• 180  M.  itft.  Desert  or  Bar  Harbor  Ferry  (Bluffs  Hotel,  $2 ; Rail. 
Restaurant).  The  train  runs  alongside  the  steamer,  which  crosses 


to  Mount  Desert, 


ROCKLAND. 


10.  Route.  133 


* Frenchman  Bay  to  (190M.)  Bar  Harbor  (p.  135),  sometimes  calling 
first  at  Sullivan  (Manor  Inn,  $ 2V2”3)?  Hancock  Point,  and  (185  M.) 
Sorrento  (Sorrento  Hotel,  $31/2-6,  with  good  cafe-restaurant),  three 
pleasant  resorts  on  the  mainland. 

b.  Vi^  Rockland. 

158  M.  Maine  Central  Railroad  to  (86  M.)  Rockland  in  33/4  lira. ; 
Steamer  from  Rockland  to  (TOM.)  Bar  Harbor  in  6-7  hrs.  (through-fare  $3V‘-’). 

As  far  as  (30  M.)  Brunswick  this  route  coincides  with  that  above 
described.  Here  we  diverge  to  the  right  and  soon  reach  (38  M.) 
Bath  (Shannon,  Phoenix,  $2),  a small  ship-building  town  with 
10,477  inhab.,  on  the  Kennebec,  12  M.  from  the  sea. 

Small  steamers  ply  from  Bath  down  the  Kennebec  to  Popham  Beach 
(RockJedge,  $3-4-,  Riverside,  $2),  RooiAftay  (Menawarmet  Ho,  ^ Boothbay 
Ho.,  from  $2),  Squirrel  Island  (Eastern  HoteJ,  $21/2),  Mouse  Island  (Samoset 
Ho.,  $3),  Monhegan  Island  (Albee  Ho.,  $2-2V2),  and  other  points  in  the 
charming  archipelago  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  k little  to  the  E.  of  the 
estuary  of  the  Kennebec  is  the  historic  peninsula  of  Pemaquid  (Edgemere 
Ho.),  with  traces  of  the  earliest  European  settlement  in  New  England. 
Off  Pemaquid  the  American  brig  ‘Enterprise’  captured  the  British  brig 
‘Boxer’  after  a hard  contest  (Sept.  4th,  1814).  Both  commanders  were 
killed  (see  p.  129).  — Steamers  also  ply  up  the  Kennebec. 

Through-carriages  for  Rockland  are  carried  across  the  river  to 
(39  M.)  Woolwich.  56  M.  Newcastle  JDamariscotta.  To  the  left 
lies  Damariscotta  Lake.  — 86  M.  Rockland  (^Samoset,  $4-5 ; Thorn- 
dike Hotel,  $ 2-3;  *Bay  Point,  at  the  breakwater,  $3Y2"4r),  a ship- 
building and  lime-burning  city,  with  8150  inhab.,  lies  on  OwPs 
Head  Bay,  an  inlet  of  Penobscot  Bay.  Steamers  ply  hence  to  Boston, 
Portland,  Bangor,  Mt.  Desert,  and  the  islands  in  Penobscot  Bay. 
We  here  quit  the  railway  and  embark  on  the  Mt.  Desert  steamer. 

About  8 M.  to  the  N.  (reached  by  electric  tramway  or  steamer)  lies 
Camden  (Ray  View,  $2V2-3V2;  Mountain  View,  $11/2-3),  a favourite  seashore- 
resort,  backed  by  fine  hills  (Mt.  Megunticook,  etc.)  rising  to  a height  of 
1300-1450  ft. 

Two  steamers,  following  somewhat  different  routes,  ply  at  pre- 
sent from  Rockland  to  Bar  Harbor. 

That  of  the  Eastern  Steamship  Co.  leaves  Rockland  in  the  morn- 
ing , on  the  arrival  of  the  steamer  from  Boston  to  Bangor , and 
steers  to  the  E.,  between  the  islands  of  North  Haven  on  the  left 
and  Vinal  Haven  and  Calderwood's  Neck  on  the  right,  passing 
through  the  so-called  Fox  Island  Thoroughfare.  It  then  crosses 
Isle-au~Haut  Bay,  with  the  Isle  au  Haul  lying  at  some  distance  to 
the  right.  We  next  enter  the  Deer  Island  Thoroughfare,  threading 
our  way  amid  the  archipelago  of  small  islands  to  the  S.  of  Deer 
Isle  and  touching  at  Stonington,  on  Deer  Isle  itself  (small  steamers 
hence  to  Isle  au  Haut).  Farther  on  we  pass  Swan  Island  and  the 
Placentia  Isles  (both  to  the  right),  while  the  mountains  of  Mt.  Desert 
come  in  sight  ahead.  Passing  Bar  Harbor  Head  (lighthouse),  at 
the  S.  end  of  Mt.  Desert  (left),  we  soon  turn  to  the  N.  (left)  and 
steer  between  Mt.  Desert  and  Cranberry  Island.  After  calling  at 


134  Route  10. 


CASTINE. 


South  West  Harbor  (p.  138)  and  North  East  Harbor  (p.  137),  on 
opposite  sides  of  the  entrance  to  Somes  Sound  (p.  138),  the  steamer 
steers  to  the  E.,  with  Bear  Island  (lighthouse)  to  the  left  and  Sutton 
Island  to  the  right,  and  calls  at  Seal  Harbor  (p.  137).  It  then  turns 
again  to  the  N.  and  runs  along  the  fine  E.  coast  of  Mt.  Desert, 
passing  Otter  Cliffs^  Great  Head  (p,  137),  etc.  Egg  Rock  Lighthouse 
lies  at  some  distance  to  the  right.  About  5-6  hrs.  after  leaving 
Rockland  we  reach  Bar  Harbor  (p.  135),  passing  the  pretty  little 
Bald  Porcupine  Island. 

The  steamer  of  the  Portland^  Mt,  Desert,^  ^ Machias  Co.  leaves 
Rockland  every  Wed.  & Sat.  at  5.40  a.m.  It  first  steers  to  the  N. 
through  the  beautiful  archipelago  of  Penobscot  Bay,  leaving  North 
Haven  (p.  133)  to  the  right,  and  passing  the  long  Islesboro  (Isles- 
boro  Inn,  $5;  The  Isleboro,  $2)  to  the  left.  To  the  left,  too,  on 
the  mainland,  rise  the  Camden  Hills  (p.  133).  About  2 hrs.  after 
leaving  Rockland  we  reach  Castine  (Acadian  Hotel,,  $ 272“^ ; Castine, 
$ 272;  Pentagoet  Ho.,  Dome  Rock  Inn,  $2),  a pleasant  little  town 
on  a peninsula  projecting  into  the  bay,  now  a favourite  summer- 
resort.  The  early  historical  associations  with  Baron  Castine  are 
celebrated  by  Longfellow.  The  steamer  next  retraces  its  course  for 
a time,  turns  to  the  left  (E.),  and  enters  the  narrow  Eggemoggin 
Reach,  between  the  mainland  on  the  left  and  Little  Deer  and  Deer 
Islands  on  the  right.  It  touches  here  at  Sargentville  and  Sedgwick, 
two  resorts  on  the  mainland,  and  at  Deer  Isle.  Quitting  this  sound 
we  steer  first  to  the  N.E.  round  Naskeag  Point  and  then  to  the  S.E. 
between  some  small  islands,  and  join  the  steamer -route  above 
described  near  the  Placentia  Islands  (see  above).  We  reach  Bar 
Harbor  (p.  135)  about  5 hrs.  after  leaving  Castine. 

Beyond  Bar  Harbor  the  steamer  goes  on  to  (4  hrs.)  Jonesport  (p.  132). 


11.  Mount  Desert. 

The  island  of  *Mount  Desert,  the  Indian  Pemetic,  lying  just  off 
the  coast  of  Maine , in  Frenchman  Bay,  about  110  M.  to  the  E.  of 
Portland,  is  15  M.  long,  4-12  M.  wide,  and  100 sq.  M.  in  area.  It 
contains  about  5500  permanent  inhab.,  but  this  number  is  greatly 
increased  during  summer.  Within  a moderate  compass  it  contains 
a considerable  variety  of  picturesque  scenery,  and  its  mountains, 
or  rather  hills,  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea,  have  no  parallel  along 
the  whole  Atlantic  coast  of  the  United  States  and  are  much  more 
imposing  than  their  moderate  elevation  would  suggest. 

History.  Mount  Desert  (accent  on  the  first  syllable)  was  first  sighted 
in  If 04,  by  Champlain,  who  gave  it  the  name  of  ^Isle  des  Monts  Deserts'. 
In  1613  a small  French  colony,  sent  out  by  Mme.  de  Guercheville,  to  con- 
vert the  Indians , planted  the  settlement  of  St.  Sauveur  on  Somes  Sound 
(see  p.  138) , but  it  was  soon  destroyed  by  the  English  (see  Parkman’s 
‘Pioneers  of  France  in  the  New  World’).  In  1688  Louis  XIV.  granted 
the  island  to  M,  de  la  Motte  Cadillac  5 but  it  was  not  till  1786  that  his 
granddaughter,  Mme.  de  Gregoire,  came  over  to  claim  the  property,  — 


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11.  Route.  135 


a claim  that  was  allowed  by  the  State  of  Massachusetts  in  1787.  The  is- 
land has,  however,  long  since  passed  out  of  the  possession  of  this  family. 

It  was  about  1850  that  Mt.  Desert  was  first  visited  by  artists  and  other 
summer-guests,  but  it  was  not  till  ten  or  fifteen  years  later  that  Bar  Harbor 
(see  below)  began  to  be  what  it  now  is  — one  of  the  most  frequented  and 
fashionable  summer-resorts  in  the  United  States. 

Physical  Features.  The  mountains  of  Mt.  Desert  are  mainly  confined 
to  the  central  S.  parts  of  the  island,  where  they  run  N.  and  S.  in  roughly 
parallel  ridges,  separated  by  narrow,  trough-like  valleys.  The  place  of 
one  of  these  valleys  is  taken  by  Somes  Sound.,  which  penetrates  to  the 
heart  of  the  island.  Thirteen  main  peaks  are  reckoned,  the  highest  of 
which  is  Green  Mt.  (1527  ft.),  in  the  S.E.  corner.  Numerous  small  moun- 
tain lakes  and  streams  afford  trout  and  land-locked  salmon  fishing.  Prof. 
Shaler  finds  evidence  that  even  the  highest  summits  of  Mt.  Desert  were 
submerged  beneath  the  sea  for  some  time  after  the  disappearance  of  the  ice 
of  the  glacial  epoch.  — The  Climate  of  Mt.  Desert  is  usually  cool  and  re- 
freshing in  summer,  but  fogs  are  rather  frequent.  The  water  is  too  cold 
for  much  sea-bathing.  There  are  several  good  roads  and  numerous  well 
marked  footpaths.  The  Village  Improvement  Associations  have  lately 
constructed  many  new  paths  and  trails,  and  a ‘Path  Map’  of  the  E.  part 
of  the  island  has  been  issued  (1903;  price  $ 1).  On  the  N.  the  island  is 
connected  with  the  mainland  by  a bridge. 

Approaches.  Most  of  the  usual  approaches  to  Mt.  Desert  are  indicated 
in  B.  10.  We  may  also  go  from  Boston  to  Bar  Harbor  by  a steamer  of  the 
Eastern  Steamship  Co.,  which  starts  daily  at  5 p.m.  and  connects  at  Roclc- 
land  early  next  morning  with  the  Bar  Harbor  boat  of  the  same  comnany 
5ee  p.  133;  through-fare  $4,  stateroom  $1-2).  Or  we  may  proceed  by 
land  to  Portland  and  there  take  the  steamer  ‘Frank  Jones’  of  the  Port- 
land, Mt.  Desert,  & Machias  Co.,  which  starts  at  11  p m.  on  Tues.  & Frid. 
or  on  arrival  of  the  7 p.m.  train  from  Boston,  calls  at  Rockland  next 
morning,  and  proceeds  thence  to  Bar  Harbor  (comp.  p.  134;  through-fare 
$ 43/4,  stateroom  $ 1V2-2). 

As  nine-tentlis  of  tlie  visitors  to  Mt.  Desert  land  at  Bar  Harbor, 
it  is  convenient  to  begin  with  that  watering-place. 

Bar  Harbor.  — Hotels,  Lodisburg,  Atlantic  Ave.,  $5;  Malvern, 
Kebo  St.,  from  $5;  St.  Sauveur,  $3-4;  Lynam’s,  Belmont,  Mt.  Desert  St., 
$ 21/2-3 ; Newport  House,  near  the  steamer- wharf,  with  cottages,  $31/2-4; 
Marlborough,  Main  St.,  R.  from  $1;  Rockawat,  $21/2  3;  Birch  Tree  Inn, 
$2-3;  Porcupine,  Main  St.,  R.  from  $ 1.  Decreased  rates  by  the  week  or 
month,  and  before  or  after  the  height  of  the  season.  — Boarding  Houses., 
$4-10  per  week;  Furnished  Lodgings  from  $2-3  upwards.  — Cottages.^  $ 150- 
3000  for  the  season. 

Carriages.  With  one  horse  $11/2  per  hr.,  with  two  horses  (1-6  pers.) 
$3.  To  the  different  places  of  interest  on  the  island  by  tariff.  — The 
favourite  carriage  is  the  ‘Buckboard’,  an  excellent  easy- riding  conveyance 
for  hilly  roads,  made  here  to  hold  2-15  persons. 

Steamers  to  Rockland.,  see  p.  133;  Boston.,  p.  129‘;  Jonesport,  p.  134; 
Mt.  Desert  Ferry.,  p.  132.  Steamers  also  ply  to  Bangor.,  to  Sorrento  and 
Sullivan  (p.l33),  to  (4M.)  Winter  Harbor  (Grindstone  Inn),  on  the  other  side 
of  the  bay,  and  to  Seal  Harbor  (p.  137),  North  East  Harbor  (p.  137),  South 
West  Harbor  (p.  13S),  and  Somesville  (p.  139). 

Boats  for  rowing,  sailing  (cat-boats),  and  fishing  can  be  hired  at  mod- 
erate rates;  also  steam-launches.  Row-boat  35c.  per  hr.,  with  man  75c.; 
canoes,  with  Indians  to  paddle,  75  c.  per  hr.  — Yachts  frequent  the  harbour 
in  large  numbers,  and  regattas  are  held  under  the  management  of  the 
Mount  Desert  Yacht  Racing  Association.,  incorporated  in  1903.  — A visit  of 
the  Atlantic  Squadron  of  the  U.  S.  Navy  is  often  one  of  the  events  of  the 
season  at  Bar  Harbor,  and  is  accompanied  by  a round  of  gaieties.  — A 
Horse  Show  & Fair  is  held  annually  at  Robin  Hood  Park. 

Kebo  Valley  Club.,  Eagle  Lake  Road,  for  golf,  tennis,  dinners,  and  dances; 
Mount  Desert  Reading  Room,  Birch  Point,  with  swimming  pool,  etc. ; Pot  & 


136  Route  11, 


MOUNT  DESERT. 


Bar  Harbor, 


Ketile  Cluh,  near  tlie  Ovens  (p.  137) ; all  open  to  strangers  on  introduction 
by  a member.  — Indian  Encampment,  with  baskets  and  curiosities  for  sale. 

Comp,  tbe  current  issue  of  the  Bar  Harbor  Record  (5c.). 

Bar  Harbor,  a popular  watering-place  frequented  by  10-20,000 
visitors  every  summer  and  almost  vying  in  importance  with  Newport 
(^p.  89},  lies  on  the  E,  coast  of  Mt.  Desert,  on  FrtnchTnan  Bay^ 
opposite  the  pretty  little  Porcupine  Islands  and  within  2 M.  of  the 
N.E.  base  of  Green  Mt.  (see  below).  Its  name  is  derived  from  the  bar, 
uncovered  at  low  water,  which  connects  it  with  Bar  or  Rodicks 
Island.  The  principal  street  is  Main  Street  (running  S.  from  the 
steamboat-wharf),  from  which  West  St.,  Cottage  St.,  and  Mt.  Desert 
St.  run  to  the  W.  A fine  view  is  had,  across  the  harbour,  of  the 
hills  on  the  mainland,  and  numerous  pleasant  walks  and  drives  may 
be  made  in  the  neighbourhood.  A huge  breakwater,  now  in  con- 
struction, will  render  the  harbour  one  of  the  best  on  this  coast. 

The  following  Walk  of  41/2  M.  shows  most  of  the  points  of  interest 
m Bar  Harbor  itself.  Starting  at  the  steamboat-wharf  and  passing  the 
Rockaway  Hotel,  we  enter  the  ’^Shore  Walk  or  Tow  Path,  which  like  the 
ClBF  Walk  at  Newport  (p.  91),  runs  between  the  sea  on  one  hand  and  beau- 

Reading  Room  (see 

p.  135)  stands  at  the  beginning  of  the  walk.  A little  farther  on,  off  the 
shore,  is  Balance  Rock.  The  stone  tower  farther  on  is  at  the  end  of  a 
bowling-alley  belonging  to  the  Villa  Edgemere.  From  Reef  Point  a path 
runs  to  the  W.  towards  Main  St.  Just  before  reaching  Wayman  Lane,  also 
leading  to  Main  St.,  we  pass  a handsome  house  called  The  Briars.  Beyond 
the  lane  we  pass  The  Lodge,  Redwood,  and  Kenarden  Lodge,  and  reach  (^q  M.) 
the  pretty  little  Cromwell  Harbor,  whence  a private  road  leads  to  (1/4  M.) 
the  S.  end  of  Main  St.  Turning  to  the  right,  we  follow  Main  St  for 
10  min.  and  then  turn  to  the  lett  into  Mt.  Desert  St.  At  the  (10  min.)  end 
of  this  street  we  descend  Eden  St.  or  the  Duck  Brook  Road  to  the  right 
to  (5  min.)  the  bridge  over  Eddy  Brook.  Continuing  to  follow  this  road 
for  about  1 M. , with  villas  on  both  sides,  the  grounds  on  the  right 
extending  down  to  the  bay,  we  reach  the  Duck  Brook  Bridge,  whence  a 
pleasant  -Footpath  ascends  to  the  left  along  the  brook  and  through  the 
trees  to  (2  M.)  the  Eagle  Lake  road  (p.  137).  The  so-called  Bay  Drive 
begins  at  the  Duck  Brook  Bridge.  In  the  meantime,  however,  we  turn 
at  the  bridge  and  retrace  our  steps  along  Duck  Brook  Road  to  (1/2  M.)  High- 
Road,  which  diverges  to  the  right  and  runs  circuitously  over  the 
hill,  rejoining  Duck  Brook  Road  (Eden  St.)  about  1/2  M.  farther  on.  In 
Highbrook  to  the  left,  is  Stanwood,  the  summer-home  of  James 

Blaine  (d.  1893).  We  finally  return  (10  min.)  to  Main  St.  through  West 
St.  or  Cottage  St.,  which  both  run  to  the  left  from  Duck  Brook  Road. 

Excursions.  The  ascent  of  “'Green  Mountain  (1527  ft.)  is,  perhaps,  the 
begin  with.  We  may  drive  the  whole  way  to  the  top 
(4  M.)  by  a rough  road  (toll  25  c.  for  each  horse  and  for  each  passenger, 
10  c.  for  each  walker),  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  road  to  Eagle  Lake 
(the  prolongation  of  Mt.  Desert  St.)  about  V/i  M.  from  the  village.  Walkers 
may  ascend  by  the  same  route  (IV2-2  hrs.),  but  will  do  better  to  follow 
the  “Path  ascending  the  gorge  between  Green  Mt.  and  Dry  Mt.  (comp.  Map; 
sign-posts).  The  Wiew  from  the  top  includes  Bar  Harbor,  Frenchman 
Bay,  almost  the  whole  of  Mt.  Desert,  the  ocean,  and  the  coast  of  Maine. 
Good  walkers  may  descend  along  the  ridges  (route  marked  by  cairns)  to 
(1  hr.)  Creek  Road  (see  p.  137)  and  return  by  it  to  Bar  Harbor.  — 

Newport  Mt.  (1060  ft.),  to  the  E.  of  Green  Mt.  and  close  to  the  sea,  is 
ascended  from  the  Schooner  Head  Road  in  1 hr.  The  path  (sign-post)  leads 
through  trees,  then  over  the  ledges  by  cairns.  *View  less  extensive  than 
Jrom  G^cen  Mt.  The  descent  may  be  made  via  the  Beehive  to  Schooner  Head 
or  the  Otter  Creek  road.  — Mt.  Kebo  (405  ft.),  between  Green  Mt.  and  Ear 


Seal  Harbour. 


MOUI^T  DESERT. 


11.  Route.  137 


Harbor,  is  ascended  by  a path  (2  M.).  — Dry  Mt.  (1268ft.)  is  ascended  by 
a steep  and  pjcturesque  path.  — A very  pleasant  trip  for  walkers  is  to 
go  to  (3  M.)  ^Eagle  Lake  (2  M.  long,  1/2  M.  wide,  and  275  ft.  above  the  sea: 
trout  and  land-locked  salmon  hshing)^  traverse  it  by  boat;  follow  a forest 
path  from  its  S.  end,  below  the  Bubbles  (see  below),  to  (1  M.)  Jordan  Pond  • 
cross  by  boat  to  the  lower  end  of  Jordan  Pond  (or  follow  the  path  alon^’ 
either  shore);  and  walk  thence  to  (2  M.)  Seal  Harbor  or  (21/2  M.)  Asiicou 
(comp  p.  138).  The  boat  may  be  ordered  by  telephone  from  the  Jordan 
lend  House  (rfmts.),  at  the  lower  end  of  Jordan  Pond.  With  this  trio 
may  be  combined  an  ascent  of  the  Bubbles  (845  and  780  ft.;  path  from  N 
end  of  Jordan  Pond)  or  PcwWc  Jf?.  (1262  ft. ; steep,  rough  trail,  known  as 
the  Goat  TraiF).  The  descent  may  be  made  to  Bubble  Pond  (path)  or  to 
the  foct  of  Jordan  Pond  (path).  ^ ^ 

-Ocean  Drive  to  Schooner  Head,  Great  Head,  and  the  Otter  Cliffs,  returninff 
through  the  Gorge,  is  a fine  round  of  12  M.  ($  H/2  for  each  passenger)  We 
leave  Bar  Harbor  by  Main  St.  and  drive  towards  the  S.  At  (33/4  M ) Schooner 
Head,  named  from  a white  stain  resembling  the  sails  of  a schooner  are  the 
Spouting  Horn  to  advantage  in  rough  weather  only)  and  Anemone 

Cave.  About  1 M.  farther  on  we  diverge  to  the  left  from  the  road  to  visit  the 
bold  and  massive  promontory  of  -Great  Head,  towering  140ft  above  the 
M^ater  and  affording  a fine  view.  To  the  S.  lies  Sand  Beach,  near  which  our 
road  runs  to  (I1/2  M.)  Otter  Cliffs.  To  visit  the  Otter  Cliffs  (188  ft  • 
-View),  we  again  diverge  to  the  left  from  the  road.  We  now  turn  to  the 
right  (N.)  and  drive  back  to  (6  M.)  Bar  Harbor  through  the  Gorae  between 
Newport  Mt.  on  the  right  and  Dry  Mt.  (see  above)  on  the  left. 

Another  favourite  drive  is  to  (IV2  M.)  Duck  Brook  (p.  136)  and  thence 
by  the  Bay  Z>nve  (^ View)  to  Hulls  Cove,  the  former  home  of  Mine 

de  Gregoire  (P-  134)  We  may  return  via  the  so-called  Breakneck  Road 

extend  the  drive  beyond  Hulls  Cove 
to  (2M.)  the  Ovens  (caves  and  archway;  visited  by  boat  at  high  water  or 
water).  — The  so-called  *Twenty-Two  Mile  Drive  leads 
via  the  Eagle  Lake  Boad  to  (7  M.)  the  N.  end  of  Somes  Sound  (p.  139) ; then 
runs  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Sound  to  (41/2  M.)  North  East  Harbor;  follows 
the  coast  thence  via  Seal  Harbor  C^Sea  Cliff  Drive)  to  (7  M.)  Otter  Creek  • 
and  returns  to  (5V2-6V2M.)  Bar  Harbor  via  either  the  Gorge  (see  above) 
or  the  Ocean  Drive  (see  above).  - Somesville  (p.  139)  is  about  9 M.  from 
l>ar  Harbor. 


Short  Steamboat  Exclesions  may  be  made  to  Seal  Harbor,  NE 
Harbor,  S.  W.  I^rbor,  Somesville,  Winter  Harbor  (p.  135),  Sorrento  (p  133) 
and  Sullivan.  The  voyage  Around  the  Island  (1  day)  is  recommended  ’ 


Seal  Harbor  {Glencove,  Seaside,  $ 3),  in  a cove  on  tbe  S.  side 
of  tbe  island  (9  M.  from  Bar  Harbor),  bas  one  of  tbe  largest 
beaches  on  tbe  island.  It  is  a good  centre  for  walkers.  About 
2y2M.  (road)  to  tbe  N.  is  Jordan  Pond,  1 1/4M.  long  and  V4-V2  M. 
wide  (trout  and  land-locked  salmon  fishing;  boating),  between  Jordan 
and  Sargent  Mts.  on  the  W.  and  Pemetic  Mt.  (see  above)  on  tbe  E. 
At  its  N.  end  rise  tbe  Bubbles  (see  above).  Green  Mt.  (p.  136) 
and  Sargent  Mt.  (p.  138)  are  easily  ascended  from  Seal  Harbor. 


North  East  Harbor  is  a narrow  inlet,  penetrating  tbe  S coa':t 
for  1 M.  about  2 M.  to  tbe  W.  of  Seal  Harbor,  and  tbe  group  of 
cottages  and  hotels  {Kimball  Ho.,  from  $ 4;  Clifton  Ho.,  from  $ 4- 
Rock  End,  Harbors  Side,  $ 3-4)  that  bears  its  name  lies  on  the 
promontory  between  it  and  Somes  Sound.  Like  Seal  Harbor  and 
South  West  Harbor,  it  is  a favourite  resort  of  those  who  prefer 
quieter  and  less  fashionable  quarters  than  Bar  Harbor  offers.  Tbe 
steamboat-landing  is  on  tbe  E.  side  of  Somes  Sound  (see  p.  138). 


138  Route  11. 


MOUNT  DESERT. 


Somes  Sound. 


Opposite  the  moutli  of  N.E.  Harhor  is  Bear  Island  (with  a light- 
house), and  a little  farther  out  are  Sutton  Island  and  the  two  Cran- 
berry Isles.  At  the  head  of  the  cove,  IV2  from  the  steamboat- 
landing,  lies  the  prettily- situated  Asticou  (Asticou  Inn,  $ 3-5),  at 
the  base  of  Mt.  Asticou  (view). 

Sargent  Mt,  (1344  ft.),  the  highest  but  one  on  the  island,  rises  about 
2 M.  to  the  N.  of  Asticou.  We  follow  the  road  or  path  leading  N.  to  the 
(1  M.)  Upper  Hadlock  Pond^  diverge  here  to  the  right,  and  follow  the  path 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  pond,  crossing  the  brook  near  its  head.  Beyond 
(1/4  hr.)  a small  waterfall  the  route  to  (V4-I  hr.)  the  top  is  indicated  by 
‘'blazes’  on  the  trees  and  by  small  cairns  on  the  ledges.  Sargent  Mt.  may 
also  be  ascended  on  the  S.  side  by  a path  diverging  to  the  left  from  the 
path  to  Jordan  Pond  (see  below)  and  crossing  Cedar  Mt.  The  *View  includes 
a great  part  of  the  island,  with  the  Bubbles,  Green  Mt.,  and  Pemetic  to 
the  E.,  and  Brown’s  Mt.  and  the  hills  beyond  Somes  Sound  to  the  W.*,  also 
Frenchman  Bay,  with  Schoodic  Mt.  (Gouldshorough  Hills)  on  its  farther 
shore,  and  the  sea,  with  numerous  islands.  The  descent  may  be  made  on  the 
N.  by  a path  and  wood-road  leading  to  McFarland  Hill^  or  on  the  E.  by  a 
trail  following  the  pretty  Deer  Brook  to  the  head  of  Jordan  Pond  (see  above). 
In  the  last  case  we  pass  a pretty  little  lake  near  the  top  of  Sargent  Mt. 
Another  route  leads  by  the  'Bluffs^  rising  from  Jordan  Pond  below  Jordan 
Mt.  The  Giant  Slide^  on  the  W.  side  of  Sargent  Mt.,  V2  hr.  from  the  road, 
is  a great  slab  of  ro  k leaning  against  the  mountain  so  as  to  form  a kind 
of  archway.  — From  Asticou  to  Jordan  Pond  and  Eagle  Lake^  see  p.  137.  — 
Drives  may  be  taken  to  Bar  Harbor  (p.  135^  $2  each),  to  (7  M..)  Somesville 
(p.  139  ^ $ IV4  each),  etc.  Rowing  and  sailing  trips  are  made  to  the  above 
mentioned  Islands  and  to  S.  W.  Harbor.  Somes  Sound  may  be  visited  by 
steam-launch  ($5-10). 


South  West  Harbor  (C7aremont  Ho.^  $ 3;  Dirigo,  both 

near  the  steamboat- wharf ; Stanley  Ho.^  on  the  opposite  side  ol  the 
harbour,  $2),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  entrance  to  Somes  Sound,  is 
called  at  by  all  the  regular  steamers.  Boating,  deep-sea  fishing, 
and  fine  sea- views  are  its  chief  attractions.  About  3 M.  to  the  S.  is 
the  Sea  Wall,  a curious  pebble  ridge,  1 M.  long  and  15  ft.  high.  Off 
the  harbour  lies  Greening  Island.,  a favourite  spot  for  picnics. 

The  road  to  (6  M.)  Somesville  (p.  139)  runs  to  the  N.,  between  Dog 
Mt.  (670  ft.)  and  Robinson  Mt.  (700  ft.)  on  the  right  and  Beech  Mt.  (855  ft.) 
and  Garter  Hubble  (480  ft.)  on  the  left.  About  IV4  M.  from  the  village,  beyond 
Norwood  Cove.,  a road  to  the  right  runs  to  the  S.  of  Dog  Mt.  and  Flying  Mt. 
(3()0  ft.)  to  (1  M.)  Fernald  Point.,  on  Somes  Sound,  believed  to  be  the  site 
of  the  French  colony  of  St.  Sauveur  (see  p.  134).  ‘Father  Biard’s  Spring’ 
(see  ‘The  Jesuit’s  Ring’,  by  A.  A.  Hayes^  is  shown  here.  Farther  on,  the 
Somesville  road  skirts  "Denning  Pond  (left)  for  (1^4  M.)  Somesville  (p.  139).  — 
Dog  Mt.,  Beech  Mt.,  and  Flying  Mt.  are  good  points  of  view,  easily  ascended 
from  S.W.  Harbor.  — Favourite  drives  lead  to  (15  M.)  Bar  Harbor  (p.  135), 
via  Somesville  or  Town  Hill,  and  to  Bass  Harbor.^  4 M.  to  the  S.W. 

Perhaps  the  finest  boating  excursion  from  S.W.  Harbor  is  to  Somes 
Sound  (see  below),  which  may  be  conveniently  made  by  steam-launch  (to 
Somesville  and  back  in  half-a-day).  — A small  steamer  makes  daily  trips 
from  S.  W.  Harbor  and  N.  E.  Harbor  to  Islesford  (Little  Cranberry)  and 
Great  Cranberry  Isle  (fme  surf  at  Deadman  Point). 

*Somes  Sound  runs  into  the  S.  part  of  Mt.  Desert  Island  for  i 
about  6 M.,  with  an  average  width  of  ^2-1  scenery  is  fine,  and  . 

no  one  should  fail  to  ascend  it  by  small  steamer  or  row-boat  (sailing 
dangerous  on  account  of  sudden  squalls).  f 

As  we  enter  the  Sound  proper,  we  have  Fernald  Point  (see  above)  on  1 
the  left  and  Manchester  Pt.  (Indian  Head  Ho.)  on  the  right.  The  finest  poi^^^  - 


LEWISTON, 


12.  Route.  139 


on  the  fjord  is  Eagle  Cliff the  wall-like  front  of  Dog  Mt.  (to  the  left), 
rising  sheer  from  deep  water  to  a height  of  5-600  ft.  (good  echo).  Farther 
on,  between.  Robinson  Mi.  (left)  and  Brown  Mt.  (right),  the  Sound  narrov/s 
to  Vs  ^-1  expanding  again  higher  up.  To  the  right  opens  a fine  view  of 
Sargent  Mt.  (p.  138).  To  the  left  are  Granite  Quarries.,  which  supplied  the 
material  used  in  the  piers  of  Brooklyn  Bridge  (p.  3 ).  At  the  head  of  the 
Sound  we  enter  Somes  Harbor  and  reach  the  village  of  Somesville  (see  below). 

Somesville  (Somes  Ho.,  $ 2-3),  the  oldest  settlement  on  the  is- 
land, is  a small  village,  frequented  mainly  by  driving  parties  from 
Bar  Harbor,  S.W.  Harbor,  or  N.E.  Harbor,  who  ascend  Beech  Hill 
(see  below),  dine  or  sup  at  the  hotel  (famous  for  broiled  chicken 
and  ‘popovers’ ; meals  $ 1),  and  return  in  the  afternoon  or  evening. 

Beech  Hill  (ca.  500  ft.),  2 M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Somesville  (road  to  within 
10  min.  of  the  top),  commands  a splendid  "View,  with  Denning  Pond  (p.  13  •) 
lying  sheer  below  its  precipitous  E.  face.  To  the  W.  is  Great  Pond  (4  M. 
long),  beyond  which  rises  the  double-peaked  Western  Mt.  (1073  and  971  ft.). 


12.  From  Portland  to  the  Rangeley  Lakes. 

a.  Via  Lewiston  and  Farmington. 

139  M.  Maine  Central  Railroad  to  (92  M.)  Farmington  in  3V4  hrs. 
Narrow  Gauge  Railroad  thence  to  (18  M.)  Phillips  and  (47  M.)  Rangeley 
in  21/2-31/4  hrs.  (through-fare  $5.15). 

Yiom  Fortland  to  (11  M.)  Cumberland  Junction.^  see  p.  129.  Our 
train  diverges  here  to  the  left  and  runs  parallel  with  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway  (p.  143),  which  it  intersects  at  (29  M.)  Danville  Junction 
(p.  143).  Coaches  run  hence  to  (5  M.)  Poland  Springs  (p.  140).  — 
32  m.  Rumford  Junction  is  the  point  of  divergence  of  R.  12b.  — 
At  (35  M.)  Auburn  (12,950  inhab.)  we  cross  the  Androscoggin.,  ob- 
taining a good  view  of  the  Lewiston  Falls  (52  ft.).  Just  across  the 
river  is  (36  M.)  Lewiston  (Exchange.,  $ 2-21/2;  $ 21/2-3), 

the  second  city  in  Maine,  an  important  manufacturing  place  (cotton 
and  woollen  goods,  etc.),  with  23,761  inhabitants.  The  City  Hall 
and  Bates  College  (350  students)  are  among  the  chief  buildings.  To 
Brunswick,  see  p.  129. 

The  train  now  follows  the  Androscoggin  for  some  distance.  To 
the  right  are  the  buildings  of  the  Maine  Agricultural  Society,  — 
46  M.  Leeds  Junction.,  where  the  Androscoggin  Division  of  the  Maine 
Central  Railway,  which  we  follow,  diverges  to  the  left. 

The  main  line  goes  on  to  (38  M.)  Waterville.,  where  it  joins  the  route 
described  at  p.  130.  Lake  Maranacook  is,  perhaps,  the  prettiest  of  the 
numerous  sheets  of  water  passed  on  this  line.  Belgrade  (22  M.),  one  of 
the  intermediate  stations,  is  6 M.  from  the  Belgrade  Lakes  (The  Belgrade, 
from  $ 3).  Oakland  (32  M.)  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  Norridgewock., 
Anson.,  and  (41  M.)  Bingham.  Norridgewock  (Quinnebasset  Inn),  with  its 
shady  main  street,  is  the  home  of  Miss  R.  S.  Clarke  (‘Sophie  May’),  the 
writer  of  girls’  books,  and  was  the  birthplace  of  Rev.  Dr,  Minot  J.  Savage.  — 
A branch-line  also  connects  Leeds  Junction  with  (27  M.)  Brunswick  (p.  129). 

The  train  to  Farmington  runs  through  a pleasant  hilly  country, 
following  the  general  course  of  the  Androscoggin , which  it  nears  at 
(75  M.)  Livermore  Falls.  From  (84  M.)  Wilton  coaches  run  to 


140  Route  12. 


POLAND  SPRINGS. 


(13  M.)  Weld  Pond^  frequented  by  trout-fishers.  At  (91  M.)  West 
Farmington  we  cross  the  Sandy  River  on  a long  curved  trestle.  — 
92  M.  Farmington  (T/ic  Willows.^  $2-3;  Stoddard  Ho.  $2),  a pros- 
perous village  of  1250  inhab.,  where  we  change  carriages  for  Rangeley. 

The  narrow-gauge  Sandy  River  Railway  runs  through  a pic- 
turesque district,  with  Blue  Mt.  to  the  left,  to  (11  M.)  Strong^  the 
junction  of  a line  to  (15  M.)  King  fields  (25  M.)  Carrabassetj  and 
(31  M.)  Bigelow.  From  (18  M.)  Phillips  (Phillips  Ho.,  Comfort 
Cottage,  $ 2),  we  continue  by  the  Phillips  & Rangeley  Railway 
to  Dead  River  and  (47  M. ; 139  M.  from  Portland)  Eangeley 
{^Rangeley  Lake  Ho..,  from  $272)?  0^  1^®  N.E.  bank  of  Rangeley 
Lake  (p.  141).  To  the  right  rises  Saddleback  (4000  ft.;  *View). 

b.  Via.  Rumford  Falls. 

122  M.  Maine  Central  Railroad  to  (32  M.)  Rumfovd  Junction  in 
1-lVti  hr.;  Portland  & Rumford  Falls  Railway  thence  to  (90  M.)  Oquossoc 
in  3V4-3V2  hrs.  (through  fare  $4,255  from  Boston  $6.45).  This  route  is 
standard  gauge  all  the  way,  and  through-carriages  run  from  Portland  to 
Oquossoc. 

From  Portland  to  (32  M.)  Rumford  Junction.,  see  p.  139.  Tlie 
through-carriage  for  Oquossoc  is  here  attached  to  the  Rumford  Falls 
train,  which  starts  at  Lewiston  (p.  139).  — Our  line  runs  towards 
the  N.,  crossing  the  G.  T.  Ry.  (R.  14)  near  (36  M.)  Elmwood  Farm.  — 
38  m.  Poland  Springs  (800  ft.;  ^Poland  Springs  Ho..,  $41/2-5, 
450  beds ; Mansion  Ho. , $ 31/2)?  inland  watering-place  of 

Maine,  with  good  mineral  water.  The  springs  are  2 M.  from  the 
station  (carr.  50  c.).  Adjoining  the  Poland  Springs  House  is  a 
Library  4^  Art  Gallery.  Stages  run  from  the  station  to  (3  M.)  Wilson 
Springs  (The  Wilson,  from  $ 3),  a similar  resort.  — 40  M.  Poland 
(White  Oak  Hill  Spring  Hotel,  $ 5) ; 43  M.  Mechanic  Falls,  also 
on  the  G.  T.  R.  (p.  143);  57  M.  Buckfield.  Beyond  (64  M.)  Hartford 
the  line  begins  to  ascend  steadily.  To  the  left  lies  Lake  Anasagunti- 
cook.  — 69  M.  Canton  is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (11  M.) 
Livermore,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Androscoggin,  and  also  a station 
on  the  M.  C.  R.  R.  At  (71  M.)  Gilbertville  we  approach  the  Andros^ 
coggin,  which  flows  to  the  right.  77  M.  Peru;  81  M.  Dixfield. 

85  M.  Rumford  Falls  (600  ft. ; Hotel  Rumford,  $2),  a new  and 
active  little  town,  with  3770  inhab.  and  manufactures  of  woollen 
goods,  chemicals,  and  paper.  It  owes  its  importance  to  the  Falls  of 
the  Androscoggin,  which  descend  160  ft.  in  three  leaps  and  are  said 
to  have  a capacity  of  40,000  horse-power.  Coaches  run  hence  to 
(15  M.)  Bryant’s  Pond  (p.  143)  and  to  (18  M.)  Andover  (Andover, 
French’s,  $ 2),  whence  connection  is  made  by  buckboard  with  the 
foot  of  Lake  Welokenebacook  (see  p.  141). 

The  line  now  bends  again  to  the  N.,  passing  a few  unimportant 
stations. 

113  M.  Bemis  (The  Barker,  $2-4;  The  Birches,  $2-3;  Camp 
Bemis,  $ 2-3)  lies  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Mooselucmagunlic  (p.  141 ) 


RANGE  LEY  LAKES. 


12.  Route.  141 


and  is  regularly  called  at  by  the  steamers.  — 120  M.  South  Rangely 
and  (122  M.)  Oquossoc  (Mountain  View  Ho.,  $2-3)  are  both  steam- 
boat-stations on  Rangeley  Lake  (see  below). 


The^Rangeley  or  Androscoggin  Lakes,  a group  of  half-a-dozen 
small  lakes,  1200-1500  ft.  above  the  sea,  connected  with  each  other 
by  water-ways,  and  covering  a total  area  of  about  80  sq.  M.,  are  a 
veritable  sportsman’s  paradise  and  also  offer  the  attraction  of  beau- 
tiful scenery  and  pure  air.  Large  trout  (up  to  10 lbs.)  abound  in  the 
lakes,  and  moose,  deer,  and  other  game  in  the  forests.  There  are 
numerous  hotels  and  camps  round  the  lakes,  with  simple  and  in- 
expensive accommodation;  expert  guides  ($21/2-3  a day)  are  easily 
procured.  Several  clubs  for  fishing  and  hunting  have  their  head- 
quarters here.  Mosquitoes  and  black  flies  are  not  troublesome  after 
July.  Warm  clothing  is  desirable.  Small  steamboats  afford  almost 
continuous  passage  from  Rangeley  Lake  to  Lake  Umbagog  (see  be- 
low). For  other  routes  to  the  lakes,  see  p.  143. 


Oquossoc,  the  north-easternmost  of  the  group, 
to  Rangeley  (p.  140)  a steamer  pliL 

[see  above),  Oquossoc  (see  above),  and  the  Outlet,  at  the 
fhp  which  is  Indian  Rock,  with 

o Oquossoc  Angling  Association.  — Lake  Mooseluc- 
maguntic  (8  M.  X 2 M.)  is  next  in  order,  with  inns  at  Haines  Landing  ($2-4) 

(S.  end;  $2).  Connected  with  this 
y smaller  Cupsuptic.  - Below  the  Upper  Dam  are 
Lakes  Molechunkamunk  {Upper  Richardson;  5M.  xl-2M.)  diudiWelokenehacook 
{Lower  Richardson;  5M.X1V2M.).  From  the  S.  arm  (hotel)  of  the  latter 
to  Aitdover,  see  above  and  p.  143.  - From  the  Middle  Dam  (Anglers’  Retreat, 
Welokenebacook,  a road  leads  to  (5  M.)  Lake 
Umbagog  (1253  ft.),  9 M.  long  and  1-2  M.  wide,  at  the  S.  end  of  which  lies 

Sfach'hence  fn  « If  ^^^m  this  lake. 

fro^Vrrnr!  n/  steamer  to  Errols  Dam,  see  p.  143;  coach 

troin  Errols  Dam  to  Berlin,  see  p.  143;  to  Colebrook,  see  p.  145 

Lakeside  and  Errol’s  Dam  up  the  Mag  allow  ay 


13.  From  Boston  to  Eastport  and  St.  John  by  Sea. 

(Campobello ; Grand  Manan.) 

fare  $125)  ^0^  04  tlWrand  Lube“c  " 

The'Se.?- Wiarf  If  n/S;  whiJ^^fh^-otlers^S  nlTm. 

and^St.  John.  ammed  on  board  the  steamer,  between  Eastport 

D *“  ®ee  p.  131:  to  Eastport  see 


142  Route  13. 


EASTPORT. 


Eor  the  beautiful  sail  down  Boston  Harbour,  see  p.  115.  The 
direct  steamer  (see  p.  141)  soon  passes  out  of  sight  of  land,  and  it 
is  only  on  the  longest  days  of  summer  that  the  coast  of  iifamc  becomes 
dimly  visible  to  the  left  before  nightfall.  Grand  Manan  (see  below), 
with  its  fine  cliffs,  lies  to  the  left,  but  is  passed  in  the  dark.  The 
steamer  then  ascends  through  the  Bay  of  Fundy  (comp.  Baedekers 
Canada).  As  we  enter  St.  John  Harbour,  we  pass  Partridge  Island 
on  the  right,  while  the  suburb  of  Carleton  is  seen  to  the  left.  St.  John 
makes  a particularly  picturesque  effect  as  seen  from  the  water. 

280  M.  St.  John,  see  p.  131. 

The  steamer  via  Eastport,  on  leaving  Boston  Harbour,  turns  to 
the  left  and  steers  to  the  N.  to  (110  M.)  Portland  (see  p.  128). 
Beyond  Portland  it  follows  a course  similar  to  that  of  the  Bar  Harbor 
steamers  (see  p.  133),  and  after  passing  Mt.  Desert,  continues  along 
the  coast,  with  Grand  Manan  (see  below)  to  the  right.  When  the  tide 
serves,  the  steamer  reaches  Eastport  by  the  Narrows^  between  Luhec 
on  the  left  and  the  island  of  Campohello  (see  below)  on  the  right. 
At  the  entrance  of  this  channel  is  Quoddy  Head  Light  (1.),  marking 
the  E.  limit  of  the  United  States.  When  the  tide  is  unfavourable, 
W8  pass  outside  Oampobello  and  approach  Eastport  from  the  E., 
with  Deer  Island  to  our  right. 

Lubec  {Hillside  Ho.,  $ 2-3^  Merchants'^  Hotel,  $ 2),  at  which  the  steamers 
call  in  summer,  is  a pleasant  little  watering-place.  The  Young  © 
Ctiristian  Associations  of  New  England  hold  encampments  at  (7  M.)  N.  LuUc 
(The  Nemattano,  $21/2-3)  in  summer. 

180  M.  (from  Portland)  Eastport  (Quoddy  Ho.,  $ 2-3),  the  eastern- 
most settlement  of  the  United  States,  with  5311  inhab.  and  an  aban- 
doned fort,  is  finely  situated  on  a small  island  in  Passamaquoddy 
Bay,  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a bridge.  Its  inhabitants  are 
mostly  fishermen  and  keepers  of  summer  boarding-houses. 

Steam  Ferries  run  at  frequent  intervals  to  (3  M.)  Lubec  (see  ^bove) 
and  (21/2  M.)  Campohello  (see  below).  A steamer  runs  regularly  to  (1»  M. ; 
2 hrs.)  Grand  Manan  (see  below),  while  river-steamers  ply  io  St.  Andrews 
(p.  131)  and  up  the  St.  Croix  to  St.  Stephen,  Robinston,  and  Calais  (comp. 

Baedeker  s Canada).  . m ir  i?  e a 

Campohello  (Tyn-y-Coed  Hotel,  with  its  annex  the  Tyn-y-Maes,  from  $ 

The  Owen,  $ 2),  a picturesque  island  between  Passamaquoddy  Bay  and  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  just  on  the  Canadian  (New  Brunswick)  side  of  the  inter- 
national boundary,  is  now  much  frequented  in  summer  by  New  Yorkers, 
Bostonians,  and  others.  For  a detailed  account  of  its  attractions,  see 
Baedeker'' s Canada. 

Grand  Manan  (Marathon  Ho.,  $ Dli),  another  Canadian  i^and,  ^-bout  lb M. 
long  and  3-6  M.  wide,  lies  at  the  entrance  to  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  9 M.  from, 
the  American  coast.  It  is  also  a frequented  summer-resort,  and  some  of 
its  cliffs  and  headlands  are  very  fine. 

On  leaving  Eastport  the  steamer  once  more  heads  for  the  E., 
crosses  the  neck  of  Passamaquoddy  Bay,  and  steers  through  the  Bay 
of  Eundy.  The  coast  of  New  Brunswick  is  in  sight  to  the  left  all 
the  way  to  St.  John  (3  hrs.). 

60  M.  (from  Eastport)  St.  John,  see  p.  131. 


143 


14.  From  Portland  to  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

a.  Vifi,  the  Grand  Trunk  Kailway. 

Gkand  Teunk  Railway  to  (297  M.)  Montreal  in  11-12  hrs.  (fares  $71/2 
drawing-room  car  $11/2,  sleeping -berth  $2);  to  (318  M.)  Quelec  in  12- 
15  hrs.  (fares  $ 81/2,  $ 2).  This  route  forms  a pleasant  approach  to  Canada, 
skirting  the  N.  margin  of  the  White  Mts.  (p.  158^  views  to  the  left).  From 
Boston  to  Canada  by  this  route  takes  3-4  hrs.  more. 

Portland^  see  p.  128.  The  train  crosses  (3  M.)  the  Presumpscot 
River  (*View  of  Casco  Bay  to  the  right).  At  (11  M.)  Yarmouth  we 
intersect  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  (comp.  p.  129)  and  then  turn  to 
the  left  (N.W.).  As  far  as  (271/4  M.)  Danville  Junction  the  Maine 
Central  R.  R.  (see  p.  144)  runs  parallel  to  our  line  (to  the  left).  — 
We  now  again  cross  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  and  turn  towards  the  W. 
291/2  M.  Lewiston  Junction^  fox  Auburn  and  (6M.)  Lewiston  (p.  139) ; 
36  M.  Mechanic  Falls  (p.  140);  47  M.  South  Paris,  the  station  for 
(2M.)  Paris  Hill  (830  ft.),  to  the  E.  of  which  is  Mt.  Mica,  where 
mica^  beryls,  tourmaline,  and  other  minerals  are  found.  From 
(62  M.)  Bryant's  Pond  (700  ft.)  coaches  run  to  (15  M.)  Rumford 
Falls  (p.  140)  and  to  (21  M.)  Andover  (p.  140). 

We  have  now  fairly  left  the  level  coast  districts  and  entered 
the  mountains.  70  M.  Bethel  (1000  ft. ; The  Elms,  Bethel  Ho.,  $ 2), 
a small  summer-resort,  with  mineral  springs,  pleasantly  situated 
above  the  ‘intervales’  of  the  Androscoggin. 

Coaches  (fare  $21/2)  run  regularly  from  Bethel  to  (26  M.)  Lakeside 
Hotel,  at  tbe  S.  end  of  Lake  Urnbacjog  (p.  141).  The  road  leads  through  wild 
and  picturesque  scenery,  ascending  the  valleys  of  the  Androscoggin  and 
Bear  River  and  affording  distant  views  of  the  White  Mts.  (p.  158). 

Beyond  Bethel  we  obtain  numerous  fine  views  of  the  White  Mts. 
(p.  158;  to  the  left),  while  the  Androscoggin  runs  on  the  right. 
Near  (86  M.)  Shelburne  (725  ft.),  in  Hew  Hampshire,  we  have  views 
of  Mt.  Madison  and  Mt.  Moriah  to  the  left  and  Mt.  Hayes  to  the  right. 

91  M.  Gorham  (860  ft. ; meal-station),  see  p.  162. 

Beyond  Gorham  our  train  turns  to  the  N.W.,  intersects  the  B.  & 
M.  R.  R. , and  ascends  along  the  Androscoggin,  affording  a good  view 
of  Mt.  Adams  to  the  left,  to  (98  M.)  Berlin  (Berlin  Ho.,  $ 2 ; Revere 
Ho.,  $ IY2),  where  the  river  pours  tumultuously  through  a narrow 
pass,  descending  200  ft.  within  a mile.  Coaches  run  hence  to  (22  M.) 
Errol's  Dam  (Umbagog  Ho.,  $2),  whence  steamers  ascend  the 
Androscoggin  to  (3  M.)  Lake  Umbagog  (p.  141). 

From  Berlin  to  Whitefield,  29  M.,  railway  in  IV4  hr.  (fare  $1.04) 
— This  hue  crosses  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  at  (5  M.)  Gorham  (see  above) 
and  runs  to  the  W.  along  the  Moose  River.  10  M.  Randolph  (p.  163):  12  M 
Appalachia  (p.  163)  ; 15  M.  Bowman  (p.  163);  19  M.  Highlands.  From  (21  M.) 
Cherry  Mountain  a branch  runs  to  the  right  to  (3  M.)  Jefferson  (p.  168).  24  M. 
Jefferson  Junction;  26  M.  Hazen  Junction.  — 29  M.  Whitefield  (p.  146). 

The  train  now  leaves  the  Androscoggin , which  turns  to  the  N. 
Beyond  (103  M.)  Copperville  (1080  ft. ; view)  we  follow  the  Upper  Am- 
monoosuc  to  (122  M.)  Groveton  (Melcher  Ho.,  $ 2),  the  junction  of 
the  Boston  & Maine  R.R.  (to  the  White  Mts.  and  Wells  Junction; 


144  Route  14. 


SEE  AGO  LAKE 


From  Portland 


see  p.  156).  This  is  the  starting-point  for  an  ascent  of  the  Percy 
Peaks  (3150  and  3335  ft. ; 2t/2-3i/2  hrs.).  The  line  now  passes  into 
the  Connecticut  Valley  (to  the  right,  the  white  Percy  Peaks).  From 
(134  M.)  North  Stratford.,  where  our  line  intersects  the  Maine  Cen- 
tral R.  R.  (see  p.  145),  coaches  run  to  (11/2^1.)  Brunswick  Springs. 
We  now  cross  the  Connecticut,  enter  Vermont  (the  ‘Green  Mountain 
State’),  and  run  through  forest.  149  M.  Island  Pond  (1500  ft.; 
Stewart  Ho.,  $2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  with  the  frontier  custom-house 
(baggage  examined). 

At  (165  M.)  Norton  Mills  we  enter  Canada.  Hence,  via  (196  M.) 
Sherbrooke  and  (221 M.)  Richmond,  to  (297  M.)  Montreal  and  (318  M.) 
Quebec,  see  Baedeker's  Canada. 


b.  Nik  the  Maine  Central  Railroad. 

To  (286  M.)  Montreal  in  12-16  hrs,  (fare  $ TV2 ; parlor-car  $ IV2;  berth 
$2);1o  (321  M.)  Quelec  in  14^/2  hrs.  (fare  $81/25  sleeper  $2).  This  line 
traverses  the  centre  of  the  White  Mts.  (seats  to  the  right  5 observation-cars 
attached  to  the  trains  in  the  mountain- district).  Through  parlor  and  sleep- 
ing cars  run  from  Portland  to  Montreal  and  Quebec. 

Portland,  see  p.  128.  The  train  starts  from  the  Union  Station, 
crosses  the  Presumpscot  twice,  and  runs  towards  the  W.  6 M. 
Cumberland  Mills,  with  manufactures  of  paper.  — 17  M.  Sebago 
Lake  Station,  at  the  S.  end  of  Sebago  Lake  (265  ft. ; Sebago  Lake 
Ho.,  $2),  a pleasant,  islet-dotted  sheet  of  water,  13 M.  long,  10  M. 
widOj  and  100  ft.  deep  in  its  deepest  part. 

Steamers  ply  from  this  point  across  Sebago  Lake,  through  the  cork- 
screw-like Songo  River  (6  M.),  and  across  Long  Lake  (13  M.  long  and  2 M. 
wide),  to  (32 M!)  Harrison  (Elm  Ho.,  Crystal  Lake  Cottage,  $2^  there  and 
back  in  8 hrs.  5 a pleasant  trip).  The  chief  intermediate  stopping-place  on 
this  trip  is  at  Naples  CBay  of  Naples  Inn.  $3-4*,  Hotel  Naples.,  Lake  Ho., 
S LI/2),  charmingly  situated  on  the  so-called  Bay  of  Naples,  the  S.  basin 
of  Long  Lake.  Bridgton  Landing  is  the  station  for  (1  M.)  Bridgton  (The 
Bridgton,  $21/2-4;  Cumberland  Ho.,  Stoneleigh,  $2),  another  frequented 
resort.  Bridgton  is  the  usual  starting-point  for  an  ascent  of  (10  M.) 
Pleasant  Mt.  (2020  ft. ; ^Mt.  Pleasant  Ho.,  on  the  top,  from  $ 41/2),  which 
commands  a splendid  '•Panorama  of  the  White  Mts.  — From  Harrison  coaches 
run  to  (11  M.)  South  Paris  (p.  143)  and  to  (5  M.)  Waterford  (Lake  Ho.,  $ 2), 
the  birthplace  of  C.  F.  Browne  C^rlemus  Ward'  5 1834-67).  This  district  has 
been  celebrated  by  Longfellow  and  Whittier,  and  Hawthorne  spent  his  early 
boyhood  near  Lake  Sebago. 

Beyond  (25  M.)  Steep  Falls  we  follow  the  valley  of  the  Saco,  the  falls 
of  which  are  seen  near  (34  M.)  West  Baldwin.  From  (3  ( M.)  Bridgton 
Junction  a narrow-gauge  line  runs  to  (16  M.)  Bridgton,  on  Long  Lake 
(see  above).  — 50 M.  Fryeburg  (420  ft. ; Oxford  Ho.,  $ 4-5),  a summer- 
resort,  is  10  M.  to  the  W.  of  Pleasant  Mt.  (see  above).  Daniel  Webster 
taught  in  the  Academy  here. — We  now  enter  New  Hampshire  (p.  125). 
Beyond  (55  M.)  Conway  Centre  we  cross  the  Saco,  and  enter  the 
district  of  the  White  Mountains  (R.  16).  60  M.  North  Conway  (520  ft. ; 
seep.  160),  the  junction  of  the  Boston  & Maine  R.  R.  We  now  ascend 
more  rapidly.  To  the  right  are  Middle  Mt.,  Hurricane  Mt.,  and  Mt. 
Kearsarge  (comp.  p.  161);  to  the  left,  the  long  ridge  of  Moat 


to  Quebec. 


LANCASTER. 


14.  Route.  146 


Mt.  (p.  161),  with  the  ‘Ledges’.  621/2  M.  Intervale  (p.  160).  The 
train  traverses  the  beautiful  Conway  ‘intervales’.  From  (65  M.)  Olen 
Station  (p.  161)  coaches  run  to  (3  M.)  Jackson  (p.  161).  The  train 
turns  to  the  left  and  crosses  the  Saco.  Beyond  (71  M.)  Bartlett 
(Bartlett  Ho.,  $2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  where  an  ‘observation-car’  is 
added  to  the  train,  we  twice  cross  the  Saco,  then  turn  to  the  N.  and 
cross  Sawyer's  River  (station)  and  Nancy's  Brook.  To  the  left  rises 
the  triple-peaked  Mt.  Carrigain  (4647  ft.).  78  M.  Bemis.  To  the  right 
are  Mt.  Crawford  (3100  ft.),  Mt.  Resolution  (3400  ft.),  and  the 
Giant's  Stairs  (3423  ft.);  to  the  left  is  Mt.  Nancy  (3810  ft.).  — The 
line  now  bends  to  the  N.W.  and  enters  the  famous  *Crawford 
or  White  Mountain  Notch,  a narrow  defile,  about  3-4  M.  long, 
with  the  towering  walls  of  Willey  Mt.  (4261  ft.)  on  the  left  and 
Mt.  Webster  (3876  ft.)  on  the  right.  The  train  ascends  rapidly 
(1  : 44),  at  a height  of  100-350  ft.  above  the  river,  and  affords, 
perhaps,  better  views  than  the  road  (comp.  p.  164).  The  deep 
ravine  below  (82  M.)  Frankenstein  Cliff  (stat.)  is  crossed  by  a 
dizzy  trestle,  80  ft.  high  and  500  ft.  long.  To  the  right  (ahead)  we 
have  a good  view  of  Mt.  Washington.  The  Willey  Brook  is  crossed 
by  another  lofty  trestle  (80  ft.  high).  To  the  right  are  the  Silver 
and  Flume  Cascades  (p.  164).  The  train  skirts  the  E.  slope  of  Mt. 
Willard  (2786  ft.;  p.  164),  leaves  the  Notch  by  its  narrow  Gateway 
(p.  164),  and  reaches  the  plateau  on  which  lies  the  (85  M.)  Crawford 
House  (1900  ft.;  p.  163).  We  now  begin  the  descent,  with  the 
Ammonoosuc  to  the  right.  Near  (89  M.)  Bretton  Woods  (p.  165)  we 
cross  the  Ammonoosuc  and  begin  to  descend  along  its  right  bank.  At 
(90  M.)  Fabyan's  (p.  165)  we  connect  with  the  railway  to  the  summit 
of  Mt.  Washington  (see  p.  170).  92  M.  White  Mt.  House;  93  M. 
Zealand.^  the  junction  for  the  line  to  Bethlehem  Junction.^  Maplewood.^ 
Bethlehem  Street,  and  the  Profile  House  (see  p.  167);  94  M.  Twin 
Mountain  House  (p.  165).  We  now  skirt  the  shoulder  of  Cherry  Mt, 
100  M.  Quebec  Junction,  where  the  Quebec  (Upper  Coos)  Division 
of  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  diverges  to  the  right,  connecting  with 
the  Canadian  Pacific  and  the  Quebec  Central  Railways, 
p Junction  to  Quebec,  221  M.,  in  10  hrs.  We  cross  the 

M-)  (for  Jefferson., 

^ (3915  ft.),  which  rises  to  the 

right.  The  railway  skirts  the  Israel  River.  — 12  M.  Lancaster  (870  ft.  • 

pleasantly  situated  on  tlie 
Israul  River,  with  3190  inhab.,  is  a favourite  summer-resort  and  commands 
distant  views  of  the  White  Mts.  Mt.  Prospect  (2090  ft.;  Prospect  Ho.,  $3), 

(p.  168)  is  7 M.  to  the  E.S.E.  — We  now  pass  from  the  White 
Mt.  distrmt  and  enter  the  Coos  District.  The  train  again  crosses  the  B.  & M. 
n at  coos  Junction,  and  farther  on  twice  crosses  the  Connecticut,  which 
h^^nfi^ry  between  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire.  At  (33  M ) 
^rth  our  line  intersects  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  (see  p.  144) 

the  valley  of  the  Connecticut.  From  (46  M.) 
to  (10M/n  f.-m  Monadnock  Ho.,  $2-3)  a coach  runs 

win.  -t!'  f Notch  (The  Balsams,  $ 4),  a fine  ravine,  2 M.  long, 

with  Its  most  striking  points  (Table  Rock,  etc.)  marked  by  sign -posts! 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  j[Q 


146  Route  15. 


CONCORD. 


From  Boston 


Coaches  run  from  the  isotch  to  (11  M.)  Errol's  Dam  (p.  143).  From  (53  M.) 
West  Stewartson  stages  run  to  the  (12  M.)  Connecticut  Lakes  (2550  ft.*,  Con- 
necticut Lake  Ho.,  32^  Idlewild  Camp,  on  the  second  lake,  $ 2),  the  source 
of  the  Connecticut. 

At  (55  M.)  Beecher's  Falls  we  enter  Canada  (luggage  examined).  Hence 
to  (22i  M.)  Quebec.,  see  Baedeker" s Canada. 

From  Quel)ec  Junction  tlie  main  line  descends  along  the  Am- 
monoosuc  to  (i04  M.)  Whitefield  (p.  156)  and  (107  M.)  Scott's^ 
where  it  crosses  the  B.  & M.  R.  R.  It  then  crosses  the  Connec- 
ticut and  enters  Vermont.  At  (110  M.)  Lunenburg  (Heights  Hotel, 
$ 1V2"^)  we  pass  on  to  the  St.  Johnsbury  & Lake  Champlain 
R.  R.  Beyond  (118  M.)  Miles  Pond  we  meet  the  Passumpsic  and 
follow  it  down  to  (133  M.)  St.  Johnsbury  (p.  156),  where  we  join 
the  main  route  of  the  B.&M.  R.  R.  to  Canada.  Thence  to  (286  M.) 
Montreal.,  see  R.  15c. 


15.  From  Boston  to  Montreal. 

a.  ViA  Rutland  and  Burlington. 

330  M.  Boston  & Maine  Railroad  (Fitchburg  Division)  from  Boston 
to  (114  M.)  Bellows  Falls  in  33/4-4  hrs. ; Rutland  Railroad  from  BellOM'S 
Falls  to  (186  M.)  St.  John's  in  53/4-7 hrs.  ^ Canadian  Pacific  Railway  thence  to 
(30  M.)  Montreal  in  3/4-I  hr.  (through-fare  $ 9 ^ parlor-car  $ IV2  ^ sleeper  $ 2V2). 

Boston.,  see  p.  94.  Leaving  the  North  Union  Station  (p.  94),  the 
train  crosses  the  Charles^  affording  a view  to  the  right  of  the  Bunker 
Hill  Monument  (p.  115).  At  the  State  Prison  (right)  the  line  wheels 
to  the  left  (W.)  and  passes  through  Somerville  (61,643  inhah.).  To 
the  left  lies  Cambridge  (p.  112),  where  we  have  a glimpse  of  the 
Harvard  College  buildings.  — lO  M.  Waltham  ( Crescent,  $ 2-3 ; 
Riverside;  Prospect),  a city  of  (1900)  23,481  inhab.,  with  cottdn-mills 
and  the  works  of  the  American  Waltham  Watch  Co.  (the  largest  in 
the  world,  producing  750,000  machine-made  watches  annually). 
We  have  our  last  view  of  the  Charles  here,  to  the  left.  To  the  right 
is  Prospect  Hill  (480  ft.).  — 13  M.  Kendal  Green  is  the  station  for 
Weston,  with  golf-links  and  the  country  homes  of  many  Bostonians. 
A little  farther  on  we  pass  Walden  Pond  (right),  a favourite  haunt 
of  Thoreau  (1817-62;  see  ‘Walden’),  but  now  frequented  by  picnic 
parties  instead  of  recluses. 

20  m.  Concord  (Thoreau  House,  $2^2;  The  Colonial,  $2^2)5 
a village  with  5652  inhab.,  situated  on  the  Concord  River,  here  formed 
by  the  junction  of  the  Sudbury  and  the  Assabet,  is  of  abiding  interest 
as  the  home  of  Hawthorne  and  Emerson,  Thoreau  and  the  Alcotts. 
It  may  be  fittingly  described  as  the  American  Weimar  or  Stratford- 
on-Avon  and  has  kept  its  literary  association  less  tainted  by  commer- 
cialism than  either  of  these  places.  For  more  details,  see  George 
B.  Bartlett's  interesting  little  volume  on ‘Concord:  Historic,  Literary, 
and  Picturesque’  (with  plan).  A carriage  (fixed  tariff)  may  be  hired 
at  the  station  and  is  often  desirable  in  view  of  the  scattered  positions 
of  the  chief  points  of  interest. 


to  Montreal. 


LEXINGTON 


15.  Route.  147 


On  leaving  the  Railroad  Station  we  follow  Thoreau  Street  to  the  right 
and  then  Sudbury  Street  to  the  left.  To  the  left,  where  Sudbury  St.  joins 
Mai7i  Street^  stands  the  Free  Public  Library.^  containing  many  interesting 
autographs.  Following  Main  St.  to  the  right,  we  cross  the  Mill  Brook  and 
reach  a square  whence  several  streets  radiate.  Here  stands  the  house  of 
the  Concord  Antiquarian  Society.,  with  an  interesting  museum  (small  fee). 

If  we  follow  Lexington  Street  to  the  right,  which  was  the  route  of  the 
British  retreat  in  1775  (see  below),  we  reach  (5  min  ),  to  the  right,  at  the 
point  where  Lincoln  St.  diverges,  the  white  House  of  R.  W.  Emerson.,  still 
occupied  by  his  daughter.  Here  the  ‘Sage  of  Concord’’  was  visited  t)y 
Frederika  Bremer.,  Margaret  Fuller  (Countess  d’'Ossoli),  etc.  A little  farther 
on,  to  the  left,  is  Orchard  House.,  long  the  home  of  the  Alcott  Family,  of  which 
Louisa  M.  Alcott  (1833-88),  author  of  ‘Little  Women’,  is  the  most  widely 
known  member.  To  the  W.  of  the  house  is  the  building  used  by  the  Co7i- 
cord  School  of  Philosophy.,  which  was  established  by  A.  Bro7ison  Alcott  (1799- 
1888)  in  1879  and  counted  Emerson,  Ben,  Peirce,  Dr.  W.  T.  Harris,  and 
Col.  T.  W.  Higginson  among  its  lecturers.  The  next  house  (left)  is  Lhe 
Wayside.,  the  home  of  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  in  1852-6i,  with  the  tower-study 
in  which  he  wrote  ‘Septimius  Felton’  and  other  works. 

We  now  return  to  the  above-mentioned  square  and  follow  Monu7ne7it 
Street  to  the  N.,  crossing  the  Lowell  R.  R.  and  reaching  (12  min.;  to  the 
left)  the  *01d  Manse,  built  for  the  Rev.  Wm.  Emerson  in  1766  and  occupied 
after  him  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Ripley.  R.  W.  Emerson  spent  part  of  his  child- 
hood here,  and,  in  later  life,  in  the  study  above  the  dining  room  he  wrote 
‘Nature’  and  Hawthorne  his  ‘Mosses  from  an  Old  Manse’.  Adjoining  the 
grounds  of  the  Old  Manse  is  the  bridge  over  the  Concord  River,  where 
the  ‘minute-men’  of  the  neighbourhood  encountered  the  British  soldiers  on 
April  19th,  1775,  and  ‘where  the  embattled  farmers  stood  and  fired  the 
shot  heard  round  the  world’.  Beyond  the  bridge  is  a fine  commemorative 
statue  of  the  '-"Minute  Man.,  by  Dan.  C.  French. 

Bedford  Street.,  running  to  the  E.  from  the  central  square,  leads  to 
(10  min.)  ■^’Sleepy  Hollow  Cemetery,  one  of  the  most  romantic  burial- 
grounds  in  America.  Among  the  illustrious  dead  buried  here  are  Ralph 
Waldo  Emerso7i  (1803-82;  grave  marked  by  a huge  block  of  pink  quartz), 
Nathaniel  Hawthorne  (1804-64;  grave  surrounded  by  a low  hedge  of  arbor 
vit-ae),  Henry  Thoreau  (comp.  p.  146),  and  the  Alcotts  (see  above).  — George 
Bartlett  (d.  1896;  see  p.  146)  is  commemorated  by  an  inscription  on  a rock 
near  the  union  of  the  Sudbury  and  Assabet.  — The  Concord  rivers  are  very 
picturesque  and  a row  on  one  or  other  of  them  may  fitly  wind  up  the  visit. 

A line  runs  from  Concord  to  (10  M.)  Lexington  (EwsseZ;  i7o.,  $3;  also 
reached  direct  from  Boston  by  the  Boston  & Maine  R.  R.,  11  M,,  or  by 
electric  car),  where  the  first  battle  betv/een  the  British  and  Americans 
took  place  (April  19th,  1775;  comp,  above).  Pop.  (L9L0)  3831.  In  or  near 
the  G-m7non  or  Green.,  where  the  battle  took  place,  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  are  two  monuments  and  various  commemorative  tablets  and  boul- 
ders. On  the  N.  side  of  the  Green  is  the  old  Buckman  Tavern.,  where 
the  minute-men  assembled  (tablet),  and  on  the  W.  side  is  the  Ha7i'ingio7i 
House.,  where  the  wounded  Jonathan  Harrington  dragged  himself  to  die 
at  his  wife's  feet.  In  Hancock  St.,  leading  to  the  N.W.  from  the  Greeu, 
stands  (right)  the  Hancock- Clarke  House.,  where  John  Hancock  and  Samuel 
Adams  were  roused  by  Paul  Revere  in  the  middle  of  the  night  before 
the  battle.  It  contains  a few  relics  of  the  period,  but  there  is  a larger 
and  more  interesting  collection  in  the  Town  Hall.,  on  the  road  to  Boston, 
to  the  E.  of  the  Green.  Mimroe's  Tavern,  farther  to  the  S.E.,  near  East 
Lexmgton,  was  the  headquarters  of  Earl  Percy,  the  British  commander. 

At  (22  M.)  Concord  Junction  we  cross  tlie  N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H. 
line  to  Lowell  (p.  151)  and  connect  with,  an  unimportant  branch  of 
the  B.  & M.  R.  R. ; to  the  right  is  the  State  Reformatory.  25  M. 
So7ith  Acton.  — From  (36  M.)  Ayer  s Junction  various  lines  radiate. 

One  of  these  branches  runs  to  (24  M.)  Gree7iville,  passing  (3  M.)  Groio7i, 
with  one  of  the  leading  private  schools  for  boys  in  the  United  States. 

10* 


148  Route  15. 


BELLOW  FALLS. 


From  Boston 


50  M.  Fitchburg  {Johnsonia^  from  $ 2^/2;  Fitchburg  Ho.^  Ameri- 
can  Ho.^  $2-2V2)?  ^ industrial  city  on  the  Nashua  River,  with 
(1900)  31,531  inhah.,  the  junction  of  lines  to  Worcester  (p.  81)  and 
South  Framingham  (p.  82).  In  the  centre  of  the  town  are  a large 
Soldiers'  Monument  and  the  Walker  Free  Library,  with  its  art-col- 
lections. The  Calvinistic  Congregational  Church  contains  some  fine 
stained-glass  windows,  hy  Fred.  Wilson  and  Tiffany  (1903). 

The  train  now  begins  to  ascend.  To  the  right  runs  the  Nashua. 
From  (53  M.)  Wachusett  coaches  run  to  the  S.  to  (6  M.)  Mt. 
Wachusett  (2108  ft.-,  Summit  Ho.,  $2-2725  *View),  which  may 
also  he  reached  from  Princeton  (^Wachusett  Ho.,  $2-3),  on  the 
Worcester  line  (see  p.  172).  At  (60  M.)  South  Ashburnham  the 
Cheshire  branch  diverges  to  the  right  (N.)  from  the  main  line  (which 
goes  on  to  the  Berkshire  Hills  and  Troy,  N.  Y. ; see  p.  172).  --  At 
(68  M.)  Winchendon  diverges  the  Monadnock  branch  to  Jaffrey  (The 
Ark  $ 2-272)  and  (10  M.)  Peterboro  (Tucker’s  Tavern,  $2-272). 

From  Peterboro  a stage  (75  c.)  runs  to  (6  M.)  tHe  lovely  summer-resort 
of  Dublin  (The  Leffingwell,  $3-4;  Leffingwell  Inn,  $3),  situated  on  a beau- 
tiful lake  near  the  N.W.  base  of  Mt.  Monadnock.  It  is  also  reached  via 
Harrisville,  on  the  Boston  & Maine  R.  R. 

The  train  now  enters  New  Hampshire.  77  M.  FitzwilUam  (12UU  It.; 
Fitzwilliam  Tavern,  $ 2),  one  of  the  starting-points  for  an  ascent 
of  (5  M.)  Mt.  Monadnock  (see  below).  From  (82  M.)  Troy  a coach 
(fare  50  c)  runs  to  (5  M.)  the  Mountain  House  ($  2-272)?  about  hall- 
way up  Monadnock  Mt.  (3186  ft.;  nYew),  one  of  the  finest  moun- 
tains in  New  England.  — 92  M.  Keene  (Cheshire  Ho.,  $272-3;  City, 
$2),  a beautiful  little  city  with  9165  inhab.,  the  attractive  Hoia- 
tiaii  Park  (lOSO  ft.),  and  manufactures  of  wooden  ware  and  furni- 
ture — Beyond  (104  M.)  Westmoreland  the  train  begins  to  descend 
into  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut.  110  M.  Walpole  (Walpole  Inn, 
$3-372;  Dinsmore,  $2),  a charming  summer-resort  on  the  Con- 
necticut. We  now  cross  the  river  to 

114  M.  Bellows  Falls  (280  ft. ; Windham,  Rockingham,  $ 2-2(  2 5 
Rail.  Restaurant),  in  Vermont,  a picturesque  summer-resort.  The 
■wooded  Mt.  Kilhurn,  on  the  Ne-w  Hampshire  hank,  affords  a hue 
Tiew  of  the  village  and  the  rapids  (fall  of  40  ft.).  At  Bellows  Falls 
we  intersect  the  Connecticut  River  Division  of  the  B.  ^ M.  R.M. 
fsee  p.  183)  and  pass  on  to  the  tracks  of  the  Rutland  R.  R.,  which 
crosses  the  Green  Mts.  (comp.  p.  163),  affording  Beautiful  views. 

At  first  we  now  traverse  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Williams  River, 
passing  (128  M.)  Chester  (570  ft.)  and  other  small  summer-resorts. 
We  then  pass  into  the  attractive  valley  of  the  Blade  River  and  soon 
begin  to  ascend  the  E.  slope  of  the  Oreen  Mts.  (comp.  p.  )• 
Near  (137  M.)  Cavendish  (910  ft.)  are  quarries  of  serpentine  (no 
0 nger  worked)  and  a wild  ravine  of  the  Black  River  w-ith  interesting 
pot-lioles  (6  inches  to  10  ft.  in  diameter).  144  M.  Ludlow  (1080  ft.  ; 
Echo  Bake,  Ludlow,  Riverside,  $2)  is  an  attractive  summer-resort. 
— From  (148  M.)  Summit  (1625  ft.)  we  descend  rapidly  to  — 


to  Montreal. 


BURLINGTON. 


15.  Route.  149 


167  M.  Rutland  (560  ft.;  Berwick  Ho..,  $2-4;  Bardwell  Ho., 
$2),  a town  in  the  Otter  valley,  with  11,499  inhah.,  chiefly  engaged 
in  quarrying  and  cutting  the  marble  (see  below),  and  in  the  Howe 
Scale  Works.  It  is  the  junction  of  the  branch  to  White  Creek  (for  Al- 
bany) and  Chatham  and  of  the  D.  ^ H.  R.  R.  (to  Saratoga,  etc.). 

Excursions  may  be  made  from  Rutland  to  (7  M.)  Clarendon  Springs 
(Hotel,  $ 21/2;  coach)  ; to  (10  M.)  Killington  Peak  (4240  ft. ; Hotel  near  the  top, 
$21/2;  *View),  one  of  the  highest  of  the  Green  Mts.-,  to  Mt.  Ida.,  etc.  — Ver- 
mont produces  three-fourths  of  the  marble  quarried  in  the  United  States, 
and  Rutland  is  the  centre  of  the  industry,  which  employs  many  thousand 
men.  The  Sutherland  Falls  (Quarry.,  at  Proctor  (see  below),  is  probably  the 
largest  single  quarry  in  the  world.  The  marble  of  Vermont  is  said  to  be 
whiter  and  more  durable  than  that  of  Carrara. 

172  M.  Proctor  (see  above).  In  a gorge  near  (176  M.)  Pittsford 
(350  ft.)  is  a curious  ice-cave,  where  thick  ice  may  be  found  at  mid- 
summer (guide  necessary).  — 183  M.  Brandon  (300  ft.),  with  marble 
quarries,  rich  deposits  of  bog-iron,  and  mines  of  kaoline,  used  here 
in  making  mineral  paint.  Stages  run  hence  to  (8  M.)  the  pretty  Lake 
Duumore  (Lake  Dunmore  Ho.,  $ 3-4;  Mountain  Spring  Hotel,  $3), 
surrounded  by  mountains.  Near  this  lake  is  the  equally  attractive 
Silver  Lake  (hotel).  Another  favourite  drive  is  to  Sudbury  (Hyde  Park 
Manor,  $ 2^2}?  8 M.  to  the  W.  — From  (189  M.)  Leicester  Junction 
(350  ft.)  a branch-line  runs  to  (17  M.)  Ticonderoga  (p.  230).  — 
200  M.  Middlehury  (340  ft. ; Addison  Ho.,  $ 2-3),  the  seat  of  a col- 
lege, is  a good  centre  for  excursions  to  (11  M.)  Bread  Loaf  Inn 
(1525  ft.;  $3-4),  Snake  Mt.  (1310  ft.;  *View) , and  other  points 
among  the  Green  Mts.  Mt.  Lincoln  (4100  ft.)  and  Bread  Loaf 
(3900  ft.),  both  commanding  fine  views,  are  easily  ascended  from 
the  Bread  Loaf  Inn.  — We  descend  along  the  Otter  Creek  to  (203  M.) 
New  Haven  Junction  (for  a short  line  to  Bristol)  and  (213  M.)  Ver- 
gennes  (190ft.;  Stevens  Ho.,  $2-2^2))  8M.  from  Lake  Champlain, 
of  which  we  obtain  views,  backed  by  the  Adirondacks  (R.  25),  to 
the  left.  227m.  Shelburne,  with  the  handsome  house,  grounds,  and 
model  farms  oi*  Dr.  W.  Seward  Webb  (to  the  left,  on  the  lake). 

234  M.  Burlington  (110  ft.;  Van  Ness  Ho.,  $2-3;  Burlington, 
$2),  beautifully  situated  on  a hill  rising  from  the  E.  shore  of  Lake 
Champlain  (p.  231),  is  the  chief  city  of  Vermont  and  one  of  the 
largest  lumber-marts  in  America,  the  lumber  coming  chiefly  from 
Canada.  Pop.  (1900)  18,640.  Near  the  public  square  in  the  centre 
of  the  town,  which  is  well  built  and  laid  out,  are  the  Post  Office, 
the  City  Hall,  the  Court  House,  and  the  Young  MeNs  Christian 
Association.  The  Masonic  Temple,  at  the  corner  of  Church  and 
Pearl  Sts.,  and  the  Fletcher  Free  Library  are  also  noteworthy.  The 
Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  and  St.  Pauls  Episcopal  Church  are  con- 
spicuous among  the  churches. 

The  University  op  Vermont,  on  a hill  365  ft.  above  the 
lake,  is  attended  by  550-600  students. 

, The  handsomest  of  its  buildings  is  the  Billings  Library,  designed 
Dy  El.  Jri.  Richardson,  and  containing  a fine  collection  of  books  in  the 


150  Route  15. 


SOUTH  HERO. 


From  Boston 


Scandinavian  languages.  The  University  Tower  commands  a magnificent 
nUew  (best  at  sunset)  of  the  city,  Lake  Champlain  (with  Jumper  Island 
onn  )site  Burlington),  the  Adirondacks  (inch  Mt.  Marcy  and  Whiteface), 
aSd  the  Green  Mts.  (to  the  E.-,  Mt.  Mansfield,  Gamers  Hump,  etc.).  In  the 
University  Park  is  a Statue  of  Lafayette,  by  J.  Q.  A.^  Ward. 

Col  Ethan  Allen  (see  p.  230;  monument)  is  buried  in  Green  Mt.  Cem- 
eteru;  Lake  View  Cemetery,  to  the  N.W.,  is  also  worth  visiting. 

Pleasant  walks  and  drives  may  be  taken  along  the  Winooski,  to  Kea 
nocks  to  Shelburne  Point,  MalleWs  Bay  (6  M.),  etc.,  and  longer  excursions 
to  Mt.  Mansfield  (p.  153),  CameVs  Hump  (p.  151),  and  other  Green  Mt.  peaks. 
Steamers  on  Lake  Champlain  to  Port  Kent  (Ausable  Chasm),  Plattsburg,  etc., 

From  Burlington  to  Essex  .Tcnction,  8 M.,  Central  Vermont  Pailway 
in  25  min  (fare  25  c.).  The  line  runs  to  the  N.E.,  passing  the  picturesque 
vor -e  arid’ falls  of  the  Winooski,  and  at  (8  M.)  Essex  Junction  (p.  154)  joins 
the°trank  line  of  the  Central  Vermont  Railway  (see  R.  15  b).  Views  of  the 
Green  Mts.  to  the  right  and  peeps  of  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Adirondacks 
on  the  left. 

To  the  N.  of  Burlington,  the  line  becomes  unusually  interesting, 
crossing  as  it  does  the  beautiful  islands  in  Lake  Champlain.  For 
about  6 M.  it  skirts  Lake  Champlain,  affording  fine  views,  includ- 
ing Plattsburg  (p.  1851,  across  the  water,  10  M.  away,  and  the 
Hotel  Champlain  (p.  231).  It  then  leaves  the  mainland  and  crosses 
tlie  lake  to  the  island  of  South  Hero  (p.  231),  over  a stone  embank- 
nier.t  with  a foundation  of  sunken  rocks,  3^2  long,  and  just 
wide  enough  for  the  single  track,  giving  the  impression  that  the 
train  is  gliding  over  the  surface  of  the  water.  — 247  M.  South  Hero 
(Iodine  Springs  Ho.,  $2-3),  a small  watering-place.  Few  build- 
ings are  visible  from  the  line.  — 251  M.  Grand  Isle  (Island  Villa, 
3^/9  M.  from  the  station,  % 1 ^1®®  South  Hero,  in  the 

midst  of  a favourite  camping  and  fishing  region.  The  railway 
now  leaves  South  Hero  and  runs  across  another  causeway  (3/4  M. 
long)  to  North  Hero  Island  (p.  231).  259  M.  North  Hero  (Irving 
$ 2).  — Beyond  this  point  the  railway  returns  by  a third  em- 
bankment to  the  mainland,  which  it  reaches  at  the  peninsula 
named  Alhurgh  longue.  — 265  M.  Isle  La  Motte  is  the  station  for 
the  island  of  that  name,  one  of  the  loveliest  of  the  Champlain 
group,  and  is  connected  with  it  by  an  old  bridge.  It  has  numerous 
picturesque  camps  along  its  shore,  and  the  Church  and  Shrine  of 
St  Anne  attract  many  pilgrims  and  visitors. — From  this  point  the 
line  runs  due  N.,  skirting  the  lake  shore,  to  (271  M.)  Alburgh,  where 
hand-baggage  is  examined  by  the  Canadian  customhouse  officers. 

From  Alburgh  to  Ogdensbdrg  , 122  M.  I’aUway  in  41/2-5  - At 

(4  M.)  Rouse^s  Point  (p.  185)  we  intersect  the  Central  Vermont  Hadwa> . 
— 9 M.  Champlain,  one  of  the  oldest  villages  in  New  York  State.  At 
(14  M.)  Mooers  Junction  .owv  line  is  crossed  by  the  Delaware  and  Hudson 
R.  R.  (p.  183).  — 49  M.  Chateaugay  (p.  211),  one  of  the  gateways  to  the 
Adirondacks.  - 60  M.  Malone  Junction,  at  the  intersection  ofthe  Adiion- 
dack  and  St.  Lawrence  Division  of  the  N.  Y.  Centr^  and  Hudson  Rive 
R.  R.  A mile  farther  on  is  Malone  (p.  224).  — 75  M.  Moira  (p.  224),  where 
the  N.  Y.  and  Ottawa  R.R.  crosses  our  line.  — 81  M.  the 

one  of  the  largest  dairy  districts  of  New  York  Sta^.  ^ . . 

(p.  234),  the  junction  of  the  Rome,  Watertown,  and  Ogdensburg  Division 
of  the  N.  Y.  C.  R.  R.  — 122  M.  Ogdensburg,  see  p.  256. 


to  Montreal, 


LOWELL. 


15.  Route.  151 


Beyond  Alburgh  the  railway  soon  enters  Canada,  running  to 
the  N.  along  the  E.  hank  of  the  Richelieu  (p.  185).  277  M.  Noyan 
is  the  junction  of  the  Canada  & Atlantic  Railway  to  Ottawa  (see 
Baedeker's  Canada\  281.  M.  Clarenceville.  At  (299  M.)  Iberville^ 
the  junction  of  a line  to  Quebec,  we  cross  the  Richelieu  to  (300  M.) 
St.  Johns.,  where  we  join  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway.  Hence  to  — 

330  M.  Montreal  (Windsor  Station),  see  Baedeker  s Canada. 

b.  Via,  Lowell  and  Concord. 

335  M.  Boston  <fe  Maine  Railroad  (Concord  Division)  to  (144  M.)  White 
River  Junction  in  474-1^4  hrs. ; Central  Vermont  Railroad  thence  to  (lo4M.) 
Si.  John'‘s  in  5-6  hrs,;  and  Grand  Trunk  Railway  thence  to  (27  M.)  Mon^ 
treat  in  3/4-1  kr.  (through-fare  $9;  parlor-car  $1V2;  sleeper  $2). 

Boston.,  see  p.  94.  The  train  starts  from  the  North  Union  Station 
(Causeway  St. ; p.94),  crosses  the  Charles  and  the  Fitchburg  division 
(p.  146),  and  runs  to  the  N.W.  through  Somerville  and  Medford. 
At  the  latter  is  Tufts  College,  a Universalist  institution  with  950 
students  (including  the  Medical  and  Dental  Schools  in  Boston)  and 
the  interesting  Barnum  Museum  of  Natural  History  (with  the  stuffed 
skin  of  the  elephant  ‘Jumbo’).  To  the  right  lie  the  picturesque 
* Middlesex  Fells  (p.  126),  to  the  left  the  Mystic  Lakes.  8 M.  Win- 
chester, with  a State  Aviary  (Mongolian  pheasants).  10  M.  Woburn, 
an  industrial  town  with  (1900)  14,254  inhab.,  a line  public  library 
(by  H.  H.  Richardson),  and  the  residences  of  many  Bostonians, 
was  the  birthplace  of  Count  Rumford  (1753-1814).  — At  (15  M.) 
Wilmington  the  branch  to  Lawrence  (p.  127)  diverges  to  the  right. 
Beyond  (22  M.)  North  Billerica  we  cross  the  Concord  River. 

26  M.  Lowell  (St.  Charles,  $ 3;  Richardson^ s,  $3;  Merrimac  Ho., 
American  Ho.,  $2-21/2),  at  the  confluence  of  the  Concord  and  Mer- 
rimac, is  the  fourth  city  of  Massachusetts  (pop.  94,969)  and  one 
of  the  most  important  industrial  cities  in  the  United  States.  In 
1900  its  huge  mills  and  factories,  run  mainly  by  the  water-power 
furnished  by  the  Pawtucket  Falls  on  the  Merrimac  (32  ft. ; seen  from 
the  bridge),  employed  31,000  hands  and  produced  goods  (woollen 
cloth,  carpeting,  etc.)  to  the  value  of  $ 44,750,000  (8,950,000 ^.). 
Dickens  gives  a graphic  description  of  Lowell  in  his  ‘American 
Notes’  (chap.  4),  but  many  of  its  features  have  changed  since  his 
day,  and  the  mill  operatives  are  now  mainly  French  Canadians, 
while  the  names  over  the  shops  and  the  talk  h,eard  in  the  street  are 
also  mostly  French.  The  centre  of  the  city  is  Monument  Squahe, 
with  the  City  Hall,  Memorial  Hall,  a War  Monument,  and  a Statue 
of  Victory  after  Rauch. 

Beyond  Lowell  the  line  follows  the  Merrimac  (seats  to  the  right), 
and  beyond  (33  M.)  Tyngsboro  (*View)  it  enters  New  Hampshire. 
— 39  M.  Nashua  (Tremont,  $2-21/2;  Baton  Ho.,  $2;  Rail.  Restau- 
rant), a pleasant  town  of  23,898  inhab.,  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Merrimac  and  the  Nashua,  with  manufactures  of  iron,  cotton, 


162  Route  15. 


CONCORD. 


From  Boston 


carpets,  etc.  The  Roman  Catholic  church  of  8t.  Francis  Xavier, 
erected  in  1898,  is,  perhaps,  the  finest  in  the  state. 

Fkom  Nashda  to  Keene,  56  M.,  railway  in  2-21/3  brs.  (fare  $1.65). 
Stages  run  from  (9  M.)  Amherst  (birthplace  of  Horace  Greeley,  p.  36)  to 
Ponemah  Springs  (hotel)  and  from  (12  M.)  Milford  to  Mount  Vernon,  a sum- 
mer-resort on  the  Quohquinaspassakessanannaquog  River.  16  M.  Wilton;  27  M. 
Greenfield.  At  (32  M.)  Elmwood  Junction  we  cross  a branch  from  Peterboro 
(p.  148)  to  ContoGcook  and  Concord  (see  below).  — 35  M.  Hancock,  named 
after  John  Hancock,  first  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  one 
of  the  early  owners.  — Coaches  run  from  (43  M.)  Harrisville  to  Dublin 
(p.  148).  — 56  M.  Keene,  see  p.  148. 

The  train  now  runs  to  the  N.  through  the  pretty  valley  of  the 
Merrimac.  — 56  M.  Manchester  (New  Manchester  Ho.,  $2Y2“3Y2; 
Windsor,  $2;  Oxford,  $2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  the  largest  city 
in  New  Hampshire  (56,987  inhab.),  with  manufactures  of  cotton 
goods  and  prints  (value  in  1900,  $26,000,000).  Its  water-power  is 
furnished  hy  the  Amoskeag  Falls,  on  the  Merrimac.  Good  view  of 
mills  to  the  left. 

About  4 M.  tn  the  E.  of  Manchester  lies  the  island-studded  Lake  Massa- 
besec  (fishing),  4 M.  long  and  30  M.  in  circumference. 

From  Manchester  to  Henniker,  23  M.,  railway  in  I1/4  hr.  (fare  74  c.). 
From  (16  M.)  Parker,  on  this  railway,  a short  branch-line  runs  to  (6  M.) 
New  Boston  (The  Tavern),  a favourite  resort  for  driving  and  sleighing 
parties  from  Lowell,  Manchester,  Fashua,  and  Concord,  and  also  frequented 
by  more  permanent  guests.  At  (26  M.)  Henniker  we  join  the  above-men- 
tioned line  from  Elmwood  Junction  to  Contoocook. 

At  (65  M.)  Hooksett  and  other  points  we  cross  and  recross  the 
Merrimac.  To  the  W.  is  Pinnacle  Mt.  (view). 

74  M.  Concord  (250  ft. ; Eagle,  $2^2"^^  2;  Commercial  House, 
$11/2-2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  the  capital  of  New  Hampshire,  with 
19,632  inhah.,  is  a pleasant  tree-shaded  city  on  the  W.  hank  of 
the  Merrimac,  with  carriage -works  and  quarries  of  tine  granite. 
Among  the  chief  buildings  are  the  State  Capitol,  the  State  Library, 
the  City  Hall,  and  the  Insane  Asylum.  Count  Rumford  (p.  151) 
lived  here  for  some  years.  About  2 M.  to  the  W.  is  St.  Pauls,  a 
well-known  boys’  school,  with  about  a dozen  separate  buildings. 

From  Concord  to  Claremont  Junction,  57  M.,  railway  in  2-2V2  hrs. 
(fare  $ 1.70).  — 12  M.  Contoocook,  see  above.  — From  (28  M.)  Bradford 
coaches  run  to  (5  M.)  Bradford  Mineral  Springs  (Bradford  Spring  Ho., 
Xew  Bradford  Ho.,  $2).  — 35  M.  Lake  Sunapee  Station  lies  at  the  S.  end 
of  Lake  Sunapee  (110  ft.),  a pretty,  hill-girt  sheet  of  water,  9 M.  long  and 
1-3  M.  wide,  on  which  small  steamers  ply.  The  chief  resorts  on  the  lake 
are  Burkehaven  (The  Burkehaven , $ D/2-2),  Blodgetts  Landing  (the  scene 
of  an  annual  Camp  of  Spiritualists),  Sunapee  (Ben  Mere  Inn,  $21/2-3^ 
Sunapee  Harbor  Ho.,  $2).  There  is  a U.  S.  Fish  Hatchery  on  Pike  Brook, 
Soo-Nipi  Park.  At  The* Fells,  on  the  E.  bank,  is  the  summer- home  of 
Col.  John  Hay,  the  author  and  statesman.  — About  3 M.  from  (43  M.) 
Newport  is  the  Blue  Mountain  Forest  Park,  a huge  game  preserve  formed 
by  the  late  Mr.  Austin  Corbin,  covering  25,000  acres  and  enclosed  by  a 
wire  fence  24  M.  long.  Its  denizens  include  buffaloes,  elks,  moose,  and 
wild  boars  (from  Germany).  Visitors  are  allowed  to  drive  through  the 
park.  — 55  M.  Claremont.  — 57  M.  Claremont  Junction  (see  p.  183). 

At  Concord  our  present  route  diverges  to  tbe  left  from  the  main 
line,  which  runs  via  Lake  Winnipesaukee  and  Plymouth  to  Wells 
River  (see  p.  156).  As  we  cross  the  Contoocook,  near  (81  M.) 


to  Montreal. 


MONTPELIER. 


i5.  Uoiite.  153 

Penacook,  we  see  on  Bustons  Island,  to  the  right  a colossal 
JStatne  of  Mrs.  Hannah  Duston  of  Hayerhill,  who^here  killed  10 
eaptors  and  made  her  escape.  —Daniel  Webster 
(17«2-1852)  was  born  2 M.  to  the  S.W.  of  (93  M.)  Franklin 
From  this  station  a branch-line  runs  to  (13  M.)  Bristol  whence 
stages  ply  to  (6  M ) Newfound  Lake  (600  ft.),  a favourite’ summer 
resort  with  several  small  hotels  and  boarding-houses.  — Our  line 
bends  to  the  left  (W.)  soon  passing  Webster  Lake  (right)  andEfioh- 

cforio  may  Lceiid  Mt.  kL- 

wvt  confounded  with  Mt.  Kearsarge  in  the 

Mhite  Mts.,  p.  161)  which  commands  an  admirable  view  (road  for 

fo  oie  Beyond  (126  M.)  Canaan  (Wo  ft.), 

Befond  f ’"i*  a Shaker  village  on  its  S.  bank. 

Beyond  (1 39  M.)  West  Lebanon  we  cross  the  Connecticut  and  reach 

144  M White  River  Junction  (365  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant- 
Junction  Jfo.,  $2-272),  where  we  cross  the  Passumpsic  Division  of 
the  Boston  & Maine  R.  R.  and  join  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R. 

White  River  Junction  to  New  York  and  to  Quebec  spp  n a 

year  round),  the  birthplace  of  Hiram  Powers  ^ . 

West  Hartford  we  cross  the  river  (*View).  158  M.  Sharon  (500  ft  ) 

539),  founder  of  Mormonism^: 
(680  ft.;  Maplewood)  the  scenery  becomes 

At  (192  M.)  Roxbury  (1016  ft.)  we  cross  the  watershed  and  begin 
AT*  Champlain.  On  a hill  to  the  right,  at  (199  M ) 

orm  M ir  University,  a military  college. 

rn  Ai  1 w ■ whence  a short  branch-line  runs  to 

(3  M.)  Montpelier  (520  ft. ; Pavilion,  $2-3)  the  canitalofVer 
mont,  on  the  Winoosfci,  with  6500  inhab.  and  a handsome  State 
House,  surmounted  by  a dome  124  ft.  high.  In  the  portico  is  a 
Stotee  o/ Ethan  Alim  (1737-89;  p.  230).  In  the  building  of  the 
}.  M C.  A.  IS  the  Montpelier  Art  Gallery,  chiefly  consisting  of  paint- 
ings (original  and  copied)  by  Thomas  W.  Wood.  The  State  Librarv 
IS  a tasteful  building.  - Near  (214  M.)  Middlesex  (535  ft  tt  wl- 
In  * Rn  f***a  iin^nngh  tlm  Middlesex  Narrows,  a rocky  gorge  Va  M 

waterbury  Ho.,  $2)  is  a good  centre  for  excursions 
(Gretn  (1°  “•)  Stowe 

S2-3),  wheucia  path  aL^^ 


154  Route  1 5. 


ST.  ALBANS. 


From  Boston 


Is^ose  is  however,  almost  as  good,  including  the  White  Mts.,  Lake 
nlain  and  the  distant  Adirondacks.  Mt.  Mansfeld  may  also  be  ascended 
bv  a ^ad  on  the  N.  side,  leading  from  Jeffersonville  through  the  Smuggler  s 
Notch  or  on  the  W.  side  from  UnderhUl  (see  below).  - Excursions  may  also 
h^e  made  from  Stowe  to  Moss  Glen  Falls,  Camel's  Hump  (see  below),  etc. 

CameVs  Hump  (4090  ft.)  is  now  seen  to  the  S.W . (left)  and  may 
be  reached  from  (223  M.)  North  Duxbury  (road  B M path  3 M.). 
To  the  N.  (right)  we  see  the  Bolton  Falls.  Beyond  (237  M.)  Willis- 
ton  we  enjoy  a retrospect  of  Mt.  Mansfield  and  Camel  s Hump.  From 
(241  M.)  Essex  Junction  (Railway  Restaurant)  branch-lines  runs  to 
(8  M.)  Burlington  (see  p.  150)  and  to  (11  M.)  UnderhUl  (see  above) 

and  (25  M.)  Cambridge  Junction.  o i t?  * 

266  M.  St.  Albans  (400  ft.;  American  Ho.,  $2-3;  Rail.  Restau- 
rant) a pleasant  village  with  6289  inhab.,  finely  situated  on  rising 
cTOund  2V2  M.  from  Lake  Champlain.  It  contains  the  car-shops  ot 
the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  and  is  an  important  market  for  butter 
and  cheese.  The  elm-shaded  square  in  the  centre  of  the  village  is 
embellished  with  a handsome  electrically  illuminated  fountain. 

AJdU  mu  1500 ft.)  3/4  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  St.  Albans,  and  Bellevue  Hill 
(1300  ft.),  2 M.  to  the  S.E.,  command  -Wiews  of  the  Green  Mts.,  Adiron- 
dacks and  Lake  Champlain  (afternoon-light  best).  — St.  Albans  Bay  (Lake 
View  Ho.  St.  Albans  Point  Ho.,  $2)  affords  good  bass  and  pike  fishing. 

From  St  Albans  to  Richford,  28  M.,  railway  in  1V4-2  A hrs.,  along 
the  River.  — 10  M.  Sheldon  Springs  S2  ^ Portland, 

IV2  M from  Sheldon  station,  $ IV2),  with  alkaline  and  mineral 

uLdi  for  cutaneous  diseases,  dyspepsia  ^ w ^ee^  n ' 15t' 

quoi  forms  rapids  here.  - 28  M.  Richford  (American  Ho.,  $2),  see  p^  lo7 

From  (272  M.)  Swanton  Junction  a branch-line  runs  to  (20  M.) 
Alburgh  and  (24  M.)  Rouse^s  Point  (see  p.  150).  278  M.  Highgate 

Springs  (Franklin  Ho.,  $ 2V2-B),  near  Missisquoi  Bay  (muskalonge, 
black  bass,  pickerel;  duck-shooting),  with  alkaline  springs.  A little 
farther  on  the  train  passes  into  Canada  (Province  of  Quebec).  Beyond 
(290  M ) Stanbridge  we  see  the  Rougemont  and  Beloeil  to  the  right, 
rising  in  isolation  from  a flat  plain.  Crossing  the  Richelieu  at 
C308  M.)  St.  Johns,  we  join  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Hence  to 

335  M.  Montreal  (Bonaventure  Station),  see  Baedekers  Canada. 

c.  Vifi  Concord,  Plymouth,  Wells  River,  and  Newport. 

343  M.  Boston  & Maine  Railroad  to  (235  M.)  in  PA-SVi  hrs  ^ 

Canadian  Pacific  Railway  thence  to  (103  M.)  Montreal  ft- ^ oicn 

L aW)  - This  route  runs  via  Lake  (see  below)  and  also 

forms  one  of  the  approaches  to  the  V/hite  Mts.  (p.  158;  views  to  the  n^ht). 

From  Boston  to  (74  M.)  Concord,  see  R.  15b.  Our  present  line 
crosses  the  Merrimac  and  runs  towards  the  N About  4 M.  from 
(84  M.)  Canterbury  is  a large  Shaker  village.  To  the  left  rises  Mt 
Kearsarge  (p.  153).  On  the  hill  above  (93  M.)  Tilton  is  a 
Arch  (55  ft.  high)  , erected  in  honour  of  the  Tilton  family.  Be^nd 
Tilton,  where  we  leave  the  Merrimac,  we  cross  and  recross  the  Wm- 
nipesaukee  River  and  skirt  Lake  Winnisquarn.  Ahead  (iettj  rise  tn. 
Sandwich  Mts,  and  the  Franconian  Mts.  102  M.  Laconia  (Eagle, 


to  Montreal.  LAKE  WINNIPESAUKEE.  25.  Route.  155 


$2-272)-  — 104  M.  Lakeport  (Mt.  Belknap  Ho.,  $2),  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  Long  Bay an  inlet  of  Lake  Winnipesaukee,  is  the  junction 
of  a branch-line  to  (17  M.)  Alton  Bay  (see  below),  at  the  S.  end  of 
Lake  Winnipesaukee. 

"Lake  Winnipesaukee  or  Winnipiseogee  (4T0  ft.  ‘Smile  of  the  Great  • 
Spirit’  or  ‘Beautiful  Water  in  a High  Place’),  the  largest  lake  in  New 
Hampshire,  is  an  irregularly  shaped  sheet  of  water,  25  M.  long  and  1-7  M. 
wide,  surrounded  by  picturesque  hills  and  dotted  with  innumerable  is- 
lands. Its  waters  (10-300  ft.  deep)  are  singularly  clear  and  are  well 
stocked  with  lish.  The  villages  on  the  shores  of  the  lake  are  favourite 
summer-resorts,  and  are  centres  for  numerous  charming  excursions.  Small 
steamers  traverse  the  lake  (see  below),  which  is  generally  reached  either 
at  Alton  Bay.,  Weirs.,  or  Wolfehorough  (see  below). 

KXtou  {Winnipesaukee  House.,  $2-21/2)  lies  at  the  end  of  the  narrow 
fjord,  5 M.  long,  forming  the  S.  extremity  of  the  lake.  Among  the  excur 
sions  made  from  this  point  is  the  ascent  of  Belknap  Mt.  (2260  ft.  5 *View 
afternoon-light  best),  12  M.  to  the  N.W.  (carriage-fare  there  and  back  $ IV2) 
Nearer  points  of  view  are  Mt.  Major.,  Prospect  Hill,  and  Sheep  Mt.  Merr 
Meeting  Lake  lies  3 M.  to  theE.  Besides  the  above-mentioned  route,  Alton 
Bay  is  reached  via  Lawrence  and  Dover  (see  p.  127). 

From  Alton  Bay  a small  steamer  plies  to  (9  M.)  Wolfehorough  {Hohhs 
Is  Inn,  $2-3;  Sheridan,  $2;  many  boarding-houses),  the  largest  village  on 
the  lake  (2390  inhab.),  pleasantly  situated  on  the  E.  bank.  The  favourite 
excursion  is  to  Gopple  Grown  Mt.  (2100  ft.),  61/2  M.  to  the  S.E.  (carriage, 

$ IV2  each),  the  "Wiew  from  which  includes  Mts.  Ossipee  and  Chocorua  to 
the  N.  (with  Mt.  Washington  in  the  distance  on  a clear  day)  and  extends 
to  the  ocean  on  the  S.E.  Tumble  Down  Dick',  to  the  N.  of  Copple  Crown, 
also  affords  a good  view.  Wolfehorough  may  also  be  reached  via  Salem, 
Portsmouth,  and  Sanbornville  (see  p.  157). 

From  Wolfehorough  steamers  run  across  the  lake  to  (14  M.)  Weirs 
(comp,  below;  80c.)  and  up  the  lake  to  (17  M.)  Gentre  Harbor  (80  c.),  both 
routes  affording  beautiful  views,  including  Mt.  Washington. 

Weirs  (^New  Weirs,  $3-5;  Lakeside,  Winnecoette,  $2-3),  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  lake,  is  a popular  summer  camping-ground  of  various  ecclesiastical 
and  other  bodies.  It  is  a station  on  the  B.  & M.  R.  R.  (see  below),  and 
steamers  run  to  Lakeport  (see  above). 

Centre  Harbor  (600  ft.;  Senter  Ho.,  with  go  )d  lawn-tennis  courts, 
$2V2-3;  Moulton,  $2-21/2;  boarding-houses),  at  the  N.W.  extremity  of  the 
ake,  is,  perhaps,  the  pleasantest  point  to  sojourn.  About  4 M.  to  the 
N.E.  (carr.  to  the  foot,  path  to  the  top  IV2  M.)  rises  Red  Hill  (2038  ft.), 
commanding  a splendid  *View,  with  the  Sandwich  Mts.  (Chocorua,  etc.)  to 
the  N.  and  N.E.  To  the  W.  of  Red  Hill,  about  3 M.  from  Centre  Harbor, 
lies  *Squarn  Lake,  a smaller  edition  of  Lake  Winnipesaukee  {Asquam  Ho., 
on  Shepard  Hill,  on  the  W.  bank).  Gentre  Harbor  HUl  (1  M.)  is  a good 
point  of  view.  Drives  may  be  tfken  '"Round  theRing^,  to  Ossipee  Park,  to 
Plymouth  (see  below),  etc.  — Coaches  run  from  Centre  Harbor  to  (18  M.)  West 
Ossipee,  whence  "Mt.  Chocorua  (3508  ft.;  *View),  one  of  the  most  finely 
shaped  ipountains  in  New  England,  may  be  ascended  via  Tamworth. 

From  Lakeport  (see  above)  the  train  runs  to  the  N.  along  the  bays 
on  the  W.  side  of  Lake  Winnipesaukee.  109  M.  Weirs  (see  above); 
112  m.  Meredith,  5 M.  from  Centre  Harbor  (see  above).  To  the  right  is 
Lake  Waukewan.  We  now  turn  away  from  Lake  Winnipesaukee. 
121 M.  Ashland.  At  (123  M.)  Bridgewater  we  cross  the  Pemigewasset 
(g  soft;  ‘place  of  crooked  pines’). 

126  M Plymoutli  {^Pemigewasset  Ho.,  $ 3-4,  meal-station),  in 
the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Pemigewasset,  7 M.  to  the  W.  of  Squam 
Lake  (see  above).  A good  view  is  obtained  ixomWalker  s Hill,  close 


156  Route  15. 


WELLS  RIVER. 


From  Boston 


to  the  village;  and  *Mt.  Prospect  (2070  ft.),  4 M.  to  the  N.E., 
commands  a splendid  panorama  of  the  Franconia  Mts.  (N,),  Sand- 
wich Mts.,  and  Lake  Winnipesaukee.  Plymouth  is  known  for  its 
buckskin  gloves,  and  contains  the  old  court-house  where  Daniel 
•Webster  made  his  first  plea.  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  died  at  the 
Pemigewasset  House  in  1864. 

From  Plymouth  to  Lincoln,  22  M.,  railway  in  1 hr.  This  line  ascends 
the  *Valley  of  the  Pemigewasset  and  leads  to  the  heart  of  the  Franconia  MU. 
(see  p.  166).  Fine  views.  — From  (3  M.)  Campion  Village  a stage  runs  to 
(12  M.)  Waterville  (Elliot's  Hotel,  $272),  situated  in  a high  valley  and  an 
excellent  centre  for  climbers.  — 21  M.  North  Woodstock  C^Deer  Park  Hotel, 
$31/2;  Fair  View,  $2)  is  finely  situated  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Franconia  Notch, 
10  M.  from  the  ProfiU  House  (see  p.  167*,  stage).  Among  the  adjacent  points 
of  interest  are  the  picturesque  ''Lost  River,  Mirror  Lake,  Bell  s Cascades, 
a id  the  Mummies  (specimens  of  erosion).  — 22  M.  Lincoln. 


Our  train  now  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Baker  River.  Small  sta- 
tions. 145  M.  Warrm  (Moosilauke  Ho.,  $2)  is  the  starting-point 
of  the  stage  to  the  (10  M.)  top  of  *Mt.  Moosilauke  (‘bald  place’ ; 
4810  ft.),  which  has  been  conspicuous  to  the  right  for  sometime 
(Tip-Top  Ho.,  at  the  top,  $ 3;  The  Moosilauke,  at  the  base,  $ 3). 
Fine  ^View  of  the  White  Mts.,  the  Franconia  Mts.,  and  the  Con- 
necticut Valley.  — Near  (150  M.)  Warren  (1060  ft.),  the 

highest  point  on  the  line  (path  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Moosilauke,  5 M.), 
we  pass  through  a deep  rock-cutting.  At  (168  M.)  Woodsville,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Ammonoosuc  (p.  164),  we  cross  the  Connecticut  to  — 

169  M.  Wells  River  (Rail.  Restaurant)  , where  our  lino  joins 
the  Connecticut  & Passumpsic  Division  of  the  Boston  and  Maine 
Railroad.  Wells  River  is  also  the  junction  of  lines  to  the  White  Mts. 
and  Montpelier  (see  below). 

From  Wells  River  to  Groveton,  53  M.,  railway  in  21/3-3  hrs.  (fare 
$ 1.89).  This  line  runs  into  the  heart  of  the  White  Mts.  (see  R.  16)  and 
forms  part  of  one  of  the  regular  through-routes  from  New  York  and  Boston 
(comp.  p.  158).  The  White  Mt.  expresses  from  the  latter  city  do  not  cross  the 
river  at  Wells  River.  — The  train  ascends  along  the  Ammonoosuc.  5 M.  Bath; 
10  M Lislon ; 12  M.  Sugar  Hill  (village,  see  p.  168)  ^ 21  M.  Littleton  (Thayer's, 
The  Maples.  $2-3^  Chiswick  Inn,  ^2),  a pleasant  resort,  from  which 
stages  run  to  (6  M.)  Franconia  (p.  168).  — 27  M.  Wing  Road  is  the  junction 
of  the  line  to  (4  M.)  Bethlehem  Junction,  (8  M.)  Twin  Mt.  House,  (12  M.) 
White  Mt.  House,  and  (13  M.)  Fahyan  (comp.  p.  165).  [From  Bethlehem 
Junction  branch-lines  run  to  (2  M.)  Maplewood  and  (31/2  M.)  Bethlehem,  and 
to  (10  M.)  the  Profile  House;  see  p.  167.J  — 31  M.  Whitefield  (p  146),  the 
junction  of  a line  to  Jefferson,  Gorham,  and  Berlin  (see  p.  l4d)-,  4d  M. 
Lancaster  (see  p.  145).  — 53  M.  Groveton,  see  p.  143. 

From  Wells  River  to  Montpelier,  38  M.,  railway  in  IV4-2V4  hrs.  — 
23  M.  Marshfield  (1140  ft.).  — 39  M.  Montpelier,  see  p.  153. 

Beyond  (181  M.)  Barnet  we  leave  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut, 
which  bends  to  the  N..E.,  and  ascend  along  the  Passumpsic,  which 
we  cross  25  times  in  24  M.  — 190  M.  St,  Johnsbury  (/OO  ft. ; Avenue 
Ho.,  $2-3),  a busy  little  town  of  7010  inhab.,  with  the  Fairbanks 
Scales  Works,  a Soldiers^  Monument,  a Museum  of  Natural  Science, 
and  an  Art  Gallery.  It  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  (23  M.)  Lunen- 
burg (p.  146)  and  (11  M.)  Danville,  (95  M.)  Swanton  (p.  154),  and 
(97  M.)  Maquam,  on  Lake  Champlain.  — 199  M.  Lyndonville  (Union 


to  Montreal. 


NEWPORT. 


15.  Route.  167 


Ho.,  $ 2),  with  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Passumpsic.  About  7 M.  to 

^^ii^oughby  Lake 

(1200  ft.},  between  Mt.  Pisgah  or  Annanance  (2500  ft.}  and  Mt. 
Hor  (1500  ft.).  At  (213  M.)  Summit  Station  (1050  ft.)  we  cross 
the  watershed  between  the  Connecticut  and  the  St.  Lawrence. 

235  M.  Newport  (700  ft.;  *Memphremagog  Ho.,  $2-3;  The 
Palace,  $1-11/2),  a village  with  3113  inhab.,  is  prettily  situated  at 
the  head  (S.  end)  of  Lake  Memphremagog  and  is  a good  centre  for 
excursions.  Good  view  of  the  lake  from  Jay  Peak  (AO  iSU.), 

12  M.  to  the  W.,  commands  a wide  prospect.  ’ 

-Lake  Memphremagog  (‘beautiful  water’ : 470  ft.),  a lovely  sheet  of 
30  M.  long  and  2-4  M.  wide,  lies  one-fifth  in  Vermont  ^and  four- 
mths  in  Canada.  It  is  enclosed  by  rocky  shores  and  wooded  hills,  and 
Its  waters  abound  in  lake- trout  (salmo  confinis),  pickerel,  perch,  and  bass. 

f fiT  steamer  plies  daily  between  Newport  (see  above)  and  Magog, 

a);  the  N end  of  the  lake  (.there  and  back  about  6-7  hrs.).  Passing  Indian 
7 and  the  Tmn  Sisters,  we  cross  the  Canadian  line  near  Province  Island. 
On  the  W (left)  shore  we  stop  at  (12  M.)  the  OwVs  Head  Hotel  ($2-3), 
at  the  foot  ot  the  prominent  Owl’s  Head  (3270  ft.),  which  is  ascended 
hence  in  2 21/2  hrs.  The  =^View  includes,  on  a clear  day,  Montreal  and 
the  Green,  White,  and  Adirondack  Mts.  Farther  on  the  steamer  passes 
Long  Islcmd  and  calls  at  some  small  landings.  On  the  E.  shore  are  the 
country-houses  of  several  wealthy  Montrealers,  and  on  the  W.  rises  Mt 
Elephantus  (Revere  Ho.).  Georgeville  (Lake  Hall),  on  the  E.  bank,  20  M* 
from  Newport,  is  a quiet  and  inexpensive  watering-place.  — Magog  (Park 
House),  at  the  N.  end  of  the  lake,  at  its  outlet  through  the  Magog  River 
fishing-station  and  is  connected  by  railway  (C.  P.  R)  with 
(19  M.)  Sherbrooke  (p.  144).  Mt.  Orford,  5 M.  to  the  W.,  affords  a good 
view  ot  the  Canadian  pine-forests  to  the  N.  and  W. 

From  Newport  our  line  runs  towards  the  N.W.  to  (266  M.) 
(p.  154),  where  we  cross  the  Canadian  frontier.  Hence  to 
(343  M.)  Montreal,  see  Baedeker  s Canada. 

^^ontreal  is  also  reached  from  Newport  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway 
btanstec^  Junction,  Massawippi,  Lennoxville,  and  Sherbrooke  (comp. 
Baedeker  s Canada).  ^ 


d.  Vi^  Portsmouth,  and  North  Conway. 

^i^®TON  AND  Maine  Railroad  to  (140  M.)  North  Conway  in 
b-yV2  hrs.;  Maine  Central  Railroad  thence  to  (50  M.)  Lunenburg  in  2V2- 
ir  r Johnsburt  & Lake  Champlain  Railroad  thence  to  ('22  M 1 

m.  Johnsbiiry  in  hr.;  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  thence  to  (45  M.) 
Newport  in  11/2-2  hrs.;  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  thence  to  (109M.)ifow- 
Ghrough-fare  $10.50).  Passengers  for  Quebec  (fare  $11; 
travel  either  via  Qtiehec  Junction  and  the  Upper  Coos  R R 
(p.  145)  or  via  Sherbrooke  and  the  Quebec  Central  R.  R.  (p.  144)  — This  line 
torms  the  shortest  and  quickest  approach  to  the  White  Mts.  (R.  16)  and 
is  also  one  of  the  regular  routes  to  Lake  Winnipesaukee  (see  p.  155). 

From  Boston  to  (57 M.)  Portsmouth  and  (67  M.)  Conway  Junc- 
tion, see  R.  9a.  — Our  line  here  diverges  to  the  left  (W  ) 70  M 
South  Berwick;  71  M.  Salmon  Falls  (p.  127);  74  M.  Somersworth. 

oO  M.  Rochester  (City,  Wrisley,  $2),  a small  manufacturing 
town  with  8466  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  (29  M.)  Portland 
(18  m.)  Alton  Bay,  on  Lake  Winnipesaukee  (see 
p.  155).  — 89  M.  Milton.  From  (98  M.)  Sanhornville  (Rail. 


CONWAY. 


158  Route  15. 

Restaurant)  a brancli-line  runs  to  (12  M.)  Wolfeborough,  on  Lake 
Winnipesaukee  (see  p.  155).  Beyond  (117  M.)  Centre  Ossipee 
have  a view  of  Lake  Ossipee  to  the  right.  — 123  M.  West  Ossipee  is 
the  railway-station  for  a number  of  small  hotels  in  the  picturesque 
districts  of  Tamworth,  Sandwich,  and  Wonalancet.  — To  the  left 
are  seen  the  Ossipee  Mts.  and  the  Sandwich  Mts.  (p.  154),  with 
the  finely-shaped  Chocorua  as  their  Eastern  flanksman.  We  pass 
between  Moores  Pond  (left)  and  Silver  Lake  (right).  Near  (128 M.) 
Madison  is  one  of  the  largest  erratic  boulders  (granite)  known  iu 
the  United  States  to  the  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  (75  ft.  long,  40  ft.  wide, 
30-37 ft.  deep;  prob.  weight  7-8000tons).  135  M.  Conway  (Conway 
Ho.,  $2),  on  the  -Saco  River,  is  a quieter  centre  than  N.  Conway  foi 
the  many  pleasant  excursions  of  this  region.  Moat  Mt.  (p.  161)  is 
conspicuous  on  the  left,  and  Mt.  Kearsarge  (p.  161)  on  the  right. 

140  M.  North  Conway,  see  p.  160.  From  North  Conway  tc 
(212  M.)  St.  Johnshury,  see  R.  14b;  from  St.  Johnsbury  to  — 

365  M.  Montreal,  see  R.  15c. 


16.  The  White  Mountains. 


Tbe  chief  Routes  from  Boston  to  the  White  Mts.  are  given 
D 154  and  above.  The  main  gateways  are  North  Conway  (p.  160)  reachec 
in  4V2-8  hrs.  (return-fares  $61/4-9  acc.  to  route)  ^ Bethlehem  (p.  16b;  7 hrs. 


in  41/2-B  hrs.  (return- . 

$9-10);  and  Plymouth  (p.  155;  31/2  hrs.;  $43/4 -5 VO-  ^ , 

The  chief  direct  Route  from  New  York  is  via  Wells  River  to  Fabyan 
or  Bethlehem  (comp.  R.  20a ; IOV2  hrs. ; return-fare  $ 17),  but  many  traveller, 
approach  via  Boston  and  North  Conway  or  Plymouth  (comp.  RR.  loc,  lOi 
12  hrs.;  return-fare  $17.50).  A cheaper  route  is  by  steamer  to  Portlanc 
(p  123)  and  thence  as  in  R.  14.  , 1.  t. 

Travellers  from  Montreal  approach  via  Gorham  (p.  162)  or  St.  Johnshuri 
(comp.  R.  15c);  from  Quebec  the  popular  route  is  via  the  Quebec  Centra, 
and  Maine  Central  railways  to  Fabyan''s  (comp.  p.  145). 

Excursion  {i.e.  Return)  Tickets  at  reduced  fares  are  issued  ir 
summer  and  autumn  in  all  cases,  giving  alternative  routes  in  going  anr 
returning,  ample  ‘stop-over'  privileges , and  a liberal  allowance  ot  time 
Thr  ugh-carriages  are  run  to  the  principal  points  in  the  Mts., 
or  sleeping  cars  are  attached  to  all  the  chief  trains  (about  $ lyz-^  / 
extra)  The  variety  of  combinations  in  which  the  trip  is  possible  is  toe 
great  to  be  detailed  here,  but  full  information,  with  maps,  time-tables 

® ..  **  •I  t --! ^ r\ir%  QT\Till  I' 51.1.1  riTl  TTOTTH  Lll  ( 


and  illustrated  guidebooks,  may  be  obtained  on  ^PP^^cation  from 
railway-companies  interested  (comp.  p.  xxii).  Circular  Tour  Tickets 
issued  by  Raymond  & Whitcomb  and  Thos.  Cook  & Co.  (p.  xxvi).  For  th 
shorter  excursions  travellers  should  ask  for  the  one-day  excur.sion  tickets 
Season.  The  White  Mts.  may  be  comfortably  visited  any  time  Iron 
June  to  October  inclusive,  and  pedestrians  will  find  the  earlier  and  late 
months  preferable  to  the  warmer  and  more  crowded  months  ot  July  an 
August.  The  colouring  of  the  autumn  leaves  is  an  additional  attractim 
in  Sept,  and  October.  Black  flies  and  mosquitoes  are  somewhat  trouble 
some  in  June.  The  larger  hotels  do  not  open  before  July. 

Time.  The  chief  points  of  the  White  Mts.,  including  Mt.  Washington 

- - JF  ^ I it  - rk wxn'KT  xriGiT.pn  in  \ 


the  Crawford  Notch,  Bethlehem,  and  the  Profile  House,  may  be  y^sited  in 
_ _n  , ir.  higiiiy  desirable  to  spend  at  least  2-4  weeK 


week  or  even  less;  but  it  is  niguiij  v 

in  the  district.  A visit  to  Lake  Winnipesaukee  (p.  155)  may  be  convenient! 
combined  with  one  to  the  White  Mts.  c„Tnmp 

Hotels.  The  hotels  vary  from  the  large  and  fashionable  summe 


LioTtbei'Raftroady 


XTiTteabur^  i 


/^flca*ttnLMeadm^ 
^ Tana 

WttoTLSta^  h 


itefipj 


Kimball  BOl 


OwXsfiecid 

3270 


PorreslL^ 


JcweUlilll 


Cherry  Mt 


^rjlTU 


JlderBrooh 


^HoadSta. 


Bcecb  mil 


ieOilelietn 


• Street 


The  JJxLbbW 


Craw^i 

.(]  Bted^ 

MtFlel 

' ‘tSt 

:Mrwfl 


4102 

Jd^Hale 


^orbiTiyirLM  ^ 

\ r ; 4783  / 


S^USiTvmiuM*. 


Harstdclcicilie 
3790  \ 

(MJBaystSc 


\ EchoXdke^ 

^irafffeJSoiis^ 

0j33^m^r^Mbpmt 


Cole  Bin. 


JS^ij5uyo<\ 


CoolQr 

Bta 


(MCiirenon) 


4‘700 


’JEaston 


MbrouLal; 


\LtS^  TvftFhuneX^ 


>1^  Kinsman 


V 2560  ■ ■ 

Pemigevrus  sethKl 

BogPdv.  V'.\  f 

^ ' Tk  U 

&myiafiaaTdMs\  J 
John^^w 
GoraofnPd-* 


>I*Cfi*n 


/'  Cooliflgelk!ft  J 

' i '' 


J/ftBoncock' 


BlacB: 


IT  otOlAV 0 o dsto  ck.  feP^nn  onfh ' 


Statute  3liles 


Wa^er  AtDebes’Geo^Establ'Leipzig. 


■■BerrLui.  Falls. 


MiWaumbelt 

W20 


^ Bla  cK  ^ 
CrescevXMi 
I 3322 

,'f 

,Sd.of  Safety 

CrcscentMi^  >t®°®  ® 
V5a«^ 

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309V  ^ 


* 3625 
PliTvyJVlt 


yr  Goi^umtSt 


njprise 


wdlcuZ^i 

TStn-, 


JkBwtitfhrop 


^ Jefferson 

g'  1 

S M5: 

- 555^3.  *w 


1 Carter 

^4-5 


louOi 

31^0 

itjonc 


of  Glen 


intm^Uc 


xarterBome 

4800 


Wild  rat 

ms  — ' 


L.tffflu;' 

w^JfttJloiu'oe 

\ _rAO/l 


-'#r5j»ACl|aiiHin 

JcASn 


Xartlt*  3605 

Ifl^Baldface 

.3535 

Soufli 

Sable]VI*  aass 

9330  • 


-Glenl'lUiFdlls 


t,  '' 

HXtewct^ 

9 MWVeVsi 

3876  ^ 


y,  SloorplWy 


2220 


Moxmtoux 


CSxmt’s  Stcdrs  ^ 
34Z^  . ^ 

iidilesoliitioii  \ 
S300 

^Crosvford 

3100 


The  Twins 


Fails 

httSCL 


[ackso] 


Iron^Mt 

Xt25 


adCTSOTt^*-^- 


Hart's  ]M£ 


ItfiPickeriiig  ^ 

StcoTton 


OitcuiponiLaiC^l 


JB^^cnyeVm. 


Conxel's  Hump 


Cap 

PefthedJflt^ 


JititosTv^! 

3980/ 


(pand  JVltTremojvt 


'Thonipsal^alls’ 


'Moat 


laclij 


l ^jnqaAll^  3^^109 -p^  dlpO 


THE  WHITE  MOUNTAINS.  16.  Uoute,  159 


caravanserais  down  to  small,  unassuming,  and  inexpensive  inns  and 
boarding-houses.  As  a general  rule,  they  are  good  of  their  kind:  and  a 
special  word  of  praise  is  due  to  the  waiting  of  the  students  (male  and 
f^emale)  at  some  ot  the  larger  houses.  The  rates  vary  from  S IV2  to  $6  a 
day  and  from  $ 5 to  $ 80  a week. 

Outfit.  Walkers  should  be  provided  with  the  plain  outfit  suggested 
should  be  prepared  for  both  rain  and  cold,  especially  at 
the  higher  elevations.  In  July  and  August,  however,  the  temperature  in 
the  valleys  is  pretty  high,  and  light  clothing  suffices.  Frequent  change 
ot  dress  has  become  all  too  usual  at  the  larger  hotels,  but  those  whose 
object  IS  rather  outdoor  exercise  than  indoor  frivolity  need  not  vield  to 
this  custom  more  than  they  choose. 

Guides  are  seldom  found  in  the  White  Mts. , as  most  of  the  main 
routes  are  easily  followed.  They  are,  however,  sometimes  useful  for  the 
less  well-known  excursions  (fee  $ 2-3  a day);  and  the  pedestrian  should 
at  any  rate,  refrain  from  visiting  the  less-frequented  routes  alone.  Vyron 
and  Thaddeus  D.  Lowe,  of  Randolph,  and  Eugene  Hunt,  of  Jefferson  are 
trustworthy  guides  for  the  Great  Range  ($3-4),  and  Onslow  S.  Smith  of 
Passaconaway  may  be  recommended  for  the  S.  part  of  the  White  Mts  A 
good  pocket-compass  is  necessary,  especially  in  the  woods. 

Carriages  (‘Buckboards’,  etc.)  are  easily  obtained  at  all  the  chief 
resorts.  Those  hired  from  the  hotels  are  expensive,  but  more  reasonable 
terms  may  be  obtained  from  livery-stable  keepers  and  farmers. 

• Appalachian  Mountain  Club  (Tremont  Building,  Boston),  founded 

numbering  1600  members,  has  done  good  service  in  the 
White  Mts.  in  making  paths,  setting  up  sign-posts,  building  camps,  and 
preparing  maps.  It  is  now  engaged  in  perfecting  an  organic  system  of 
mam  through-route  footpaths,  by  which  it  will  be  p ssible  to  traverse 
nearly  all  the  principal  ranges  and  valleys  from  end  to  end,  or  to  cross 
from  one  valley  to  another.  The  Club  also  maintains  registers  in  copper 
cylinders  on  most  of  the  less  frequented  summits  for  records  of  ascents. 
Its  periodical,  Appalachia,  contains  much  valuable  information.  Admission- 
«^t)scription  $ 4.  — The  best  map  of  the  White  Mts.  is  that 
published  by  the  Scarborough  Publishing  Go.,  144  Essex  St.,  Boston  (2  M to 
the  inch).  ’ ^ 


The  White  Mountains  form  the  central  portion  of  the  Atlantic 
system  of  mountains  extending  from  the  peninsula  of  Gaspe  to 
Alabama.  In  the  ordinary  use  of  the  term,  they  cover  an  area  of 
IdOO  sq.  M.  ill  the  state  of  New  Hampshire,  extending  from  the 
Androscoggin  and  Upper  Ammonoosuc  on  the  N.  to  the  base  of 
the  Sandwich  Range  on  the  S.  (a  distance  of  30  M.),  and  from  the 
Maine  frontier  on  the  E.  to  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut  on  the  W. 

mountains  rise  from  a plateau  about  1500- 
IbOOft.  above  the  sea,  and  attain  an  extreme  elevation  of  5-6000  ft. 
They  are  roughly  divided  into  two  main  groups,  the  White  Mts. 
proper  to  the  E.  and  the  Franconia  Mts.  to  the  W.,  but  with  numer- 
ous subordinate  groups.  In  the  original  and  narrowest  sense  the 
name  of  White  Mts.  is  restricted  to  the  Great  01  Presidential  Range, 
extending  for  about  13  M.  from  Mt.  Madison  on  the  N.E.  to  Mt. 
Webster  on  the  S.W.  The  summits  of  this  range  culminate  in  Mt. 
Washinnton  (6290  ft.),  the  highest  point  to  the  E.  of  the  Rockies 
and  to  the  N.  of  N.  Carolina.  The  great  mass  of  the  White  Mts.  con- 
sists  of  granite,  overlaid  by  mica  slate.  The  scenery  of  the  White 
Mts.  is  of  a very  beautiful  and  varied  nature;  and  though  few  ot* 
the  summits  are  sharp  enough  to  deserve  the  name  of  peaks,  many 


160  Route  16. 


NORTH  CONWAY. 


The  White 


of  them  (such  as  Mt.  Washington  and  Mt.  Lafayette)  are  of  very 
noble  outline.  They  are  visited  annually  by  many  thousands  of 
summer-guests,  and  all  the  chief  points  are  of  easy  access.  The 
first  white  visitor  is  said  to  have  been  Darby  Field,  in  1642. 

The  following  account  notices  the  chief  tourist  centres. 

a.  North  Conway. 

North  Conway  (520  ft. ; *Kearsarge  Ho..,  $ 3-5;  Sunset  Pavilion, 
$3-31/2;  Eastman,  Randall,  $2-3;  numerous  boarding-houses), 
charmingly  situated  on  a low  terrace  above  the  ‘intervales’  of  the 
winding  Saco  River  (pron.  ‘Sawco’),  is  a favourite  resort  with  those 
who  like  to  combine  the  softer  beauties  of  the  valley  with  excursions 
into  the  mountains.  To  the  W.  rises  Moat  Mt.,  to  the  E.  the  Green 
Hills,  and  to  the  N.E.  Mt.  Kearsarge  and  Hurricane  Mt.,  while  to 
the  N.  and  N.W.  more  distant  views  are  obtained  of  Mt.  Washing- 
ton and  other  lofty  summits.  About  1 1/2 M.  to  the  N.  lies  the  pretty 
and  sequestered  little  hamlet  of  Intervale  (550  ft;  *Intervale  Ho., 
$31/2-41/2;  Bellevue,  $21/2-3;  Pendexter,  $2-3;  stat.,  p.  144);  and 
near  the  foot  of  Mt.  Kearsarge  (p.  161),  I1/2  M.  to  the  N.E.,  is  Kear- 
sarge Village  (The  Ridge,  $ 3). 

To  Echo  Lake  and  the  Ledges,  2-21/2  M.  From  t'ht  Kearsarge  Ho.  we 
follow  the  road  to  the  N.  to  (7  min.)  the  Sunset  Pavilion,  take  the  road  to 
the  left  here  (which  soon  passes  below  the  railway),  and  cross  the  (7  min.) 
Saco  by  a covered  bridge.  A few  hundred  paces  farther  on  we  cross  a 
branch  of  the  river.  About  8 min.  farther  on,  at  another  brook,  the  road 
forks,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Echo  Lake,  the  right  to  the  Devil  s Den  (see 
below).  We  follow  the  former.  At  the  (12  min.)  cross-roads  we  continue 
in  a straight  direction.  3 min.  *Echo  Lake  (925  ft.),  a tiny  laKe,  finely 
situated  at  the  base  of  a bold  rocky  bluff  which  has  been  prominent  dur- 
ing most  of  our  walk.  This  is  the  White  Horse  Ledge  (so  called  from  a 
patch  of  white  rock),  one  of  a series  of  so-called  Ledges  (100-900  ft.),  or 
cliffs,  in  which  Moat  Mt.  ends  on  this  side.  Following  the  bank  of  the 
lake  towards  the  N.  and  disregarding  roads  leading  back  to  the  right,  we 
reach  (7  min.)  a path  leading  through  wood  to  the  left,  which  ultimately 
crosses  a fence  and  reaches  (8  min.)  a road.  We  follow  the  road  in  the 
same  direction  past  a quarry,  just  beyond  which  are  a small  refreshment 
hut  and  the  DeviVs  Den,  under  an  overhanging  slab  of  rock.  We  now  re- 
turn to  the  point  whence  we  emerged  from  the  forest-path,  and  follow 
the  road  to  the  left.  At  (6  min.)  the  highroad  (white  farm-house)  we  turn 
to  the  right.  10  min.  Bridge,  where  we  diverged  to  the  left  for  Echo  Lake  (see 
above).  [By  turning  to  the  left  on  regaining  the  highroad  and  following 
it  for  3/4  reach  a sign-post  pointing  to  Diana's  Baths.\ 

To  Artists’  Falls,  1^/4  M.  We  proceed  to  the  S.  from  the  Kearsarge 
Ho.,  past  the  Maine  Central  R.  R.  Station,  to  (10  min.)  the  bridge  over 
Artists'  Brook;  then  turn  to  the  left  and  follow  the  road,  crosTing  another 
bridge,  to  (12  min.)  the  North  Conway  Keeley  Institute  (formerly  Artists'  Falls 
Hotel).  A path  to  the  right  leads  to  (5  min.)  Forest  Glen  Mineral  Spring 
(alkaline).  To  reach  the  falls  we  take  the  right  branch  of  the  fork  op- 
posite the  spring,  and  in  5-6  min.  more  reach  their  side.  The  Artists  Falls 
are  small,  but  pretty  in  wet  weather. 

*Ascent  of  Mt.  Kearsarge  (5-6  hrs.  there  and  back).  Going  N.  irom 
the  Kearsarge  Ho.,  we  take  the  (3  min.)  second  turning  to  the  right  (sign- 
post ‘to  Kearsarge  Village’),  cross  the  railway,  and  (5  min.)  ^^irn  to  the 
left.  This  road  leads  through  Kearsarge  Village  (see  above)  to  (IV4  M.)  a 
small  church,  where  we  turn  to  the  right.  Va  Farm  House  (carr.  to 
this  point,  50c.  a head^  horse  hence  to  the  top  $2;  guide,  unnecessary, 


Mountains . 


JACKSON, 


16.  boute.  161 


$2;  ascent  hence  in  13/4-21/4  hrs.).  The  path,  which  is  steep  and  stony 
at  first,  comparatively  easy  in  the  middle,  and  steep  towards  the  top, 
begins  behind  the  farm-house,  crosses  fields,  and  enters  (8  min.)  the  wood. 
25  min.  Path  leading  back  to  the  right  to  Prospect  Ledge  (-View  of  Saco 
Valley,  Moat  Mt.,  etc.).  About  10  min.  farther  up  we  pass  a small  spring 
(to  the  right).  In  10  min.  we  emerge  from  the  wood  and  reach  the  rocky 
ledges,  and  soon  see  a small  cairn  a little  to  our  right.  It  is  not  easy  to 
give  directions  from  this  point,  but  by  noting  the  worn  part  of  the  rocks 
and  keeping  a look-out  for  the  cairns,  we  reach  the  top  in  about  1 hr. 
more.  At  first  we  keep  to  the  right  and  then  swing  round  to  the  left  to 
approach  the  summit  from  the  W.  The  noble  *View  from  the  pyramidal 
Mt.  Kearsarge,  Kiarsarge^  or  Pequawket  (3270  ft.  •,  rfmt.  hut  at  the  top) 
includes  the  Saco  Valley  to  the  S.  and  W.  ^ Mt.  Chocorua  and  the  bare 
ridge  of  Moat  Mt.  to  the  S.W.-,  Moosilauke  (p.  156;  in  the  distance),  Mt. 
Hancock,  Mt.  Carrigain,  and  Mt.  Lafayette,  to  the  W.  and  W.N.W. ; and 
most  of  the  main  summits  of  the  White  Mts.,  including  a grand  view  of 
Mt.  Washington,  to  the  N.W.,  and  the  Wild-Cat  and  Carter  Mts.,  with  the 
Carter  Kotch  between,  to  the  N.;  several  lakes  and  ponds,  including  Lake 
Sebago,  to  the  E.  and  S.E.  The  other  Mt.  Kearsarge  (p.  153),  60  M.  off, 
is  seen  to  the  left  of  Chocorua.  The  descent  to  Bartlett  (p.  145)  should 
not  be  attempted  without  a guide.  In  descending  to  N.  Conway  a little 
care  is  necessary  to  follow  the  route  over  the  ledges.  In  the  wood  we 
keep  mainly  to  the  right,  as  nearly  as  possible  straight  down  the  incline. 

Moat  Mountain  (K.  peak,  3195  ft. ; *View)  may  be  ascended  in  3-4  hrs., 
from  North  Conway  by  a path  (sign-posts  and  cairns)  beginning  near  (3  M.) 
Diana's  Baths  (see  above).  The  path  along  the  ridge  of  Moat  Mt.  is  plain, 
and  the  descent  may  be  made  via  the  S.  peak  (2775  ft.)  to  the  Swift  River  and 
Conway  Centre  (p.  160).  — Middle  Mt.  (1850  ft.),  another  good  point  of  view, 
is  ascended  in  1 hr.  by  a path  beginning  near  the  Forest  Glen  Mineral 
Spring  (see  above).  The  adjoining  Peaked  Mt.  (1730  ft. ; 1 hr.)  is  also  easily 
ascended,  while  a fine  road  (views)  leads  across  Hurricane  Mt.  (2110  ft.)  to 
Fryeburg.^  in  Maine. 

Among  the  favourite  Drives  from  N.  Conway  are  those  '‘Around  the 
Square'  (5  M.),  the  '‘Dundee  Drive'  (12  M.),  and  to  Jackson  Falls  (9  M. ; see 
below).  The  distance  through  the  White  Mountain  Notch  (p.  164)  to  the 
Crawford  House  (p.  163)  is  26  M.  — The  ‘Coaching  Parade’  held  in  Aug. 
may  be  mentioned. 

Coaches  run  regularly  in  summer  from  N.  Conway  to  (9  M.)  Jackson 
(see  below),  passing  (5  M.)  Olen  Station  (p.  145). 

b.  Jackson  and  the  Peabody  Glen. 

Jackson  (760  ft. ; ^Wentworth  Hall.,  with  annex-cottages,  $4-5  5 
Jackson  Falls  Ho..,  $2-272  5 Trcn  Mt.  Ho.,  Glen  Ellis  Ho..,  Eagle  Mt. 
Ho.,  $2-3 ; boarding-houses)  is  overshadowed  by  Iron  Mt.  (2725  ft.) 
and  Thorn  Mt.  (2265  ft.).  The  Jackson  Falls,  on  the  Wild-Cat 
River,  near  the  hotels,  are  pretty.  Good  fishing.  There  is  a small 
golf-course  attached  to  Wentworth  Hall. 

Excursions  are  made  hence  to  Goodrich  Falls,  IV2  M.  to  the  S.  (fine 
after  heavy  rain  only);  up  the  glen  of  the  Wild-Cat  Brook  to  the  (8  M.) 
Carter  Notch  (3320  ft.),  between  Mt.  Wild-Cat  (4415  ft.)  and  the  Carter 
Dome  (4860  ft.);  to  the  top  of  (1  hr.)  Thorn  Mt.  (2265  ft.);  to  (41/2  M.) 
Fernald  Farm  (view  of  Mt.  Washington) ; to  the  (3M.)  Winneweta  Falls,  etc. 

Carriage  to  (20  M.)  the  top  of  Mt.  Washington  $ 6 each,  inch  toll  (there 
and  back  $8);  to  Gorham  (p.  162)  $5  each. 

The  road  from  Jackson  to  the  Peabody  Glen  runs  to  the  N. 
along  the  Ellis  River,  passing  through  the  wooded  Pinkham  Notch 
(2018  ft.)  and  affording  glimpses  to  the  left  of  the  deep  ravines  of 
Mt.  Washington.  About  7 M.  from  Jackson  a path  to  the  right 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  11 


162  Route  16, 


GORHAM. 


The  White 


(sign-post)  leads  to  the  (V4  M.)  *Olen  Ellis  Falls  (70  ft.),  and  a 
little  farther  on,  to  the  left  (sign-post),  diverges  that  to  the  (3/g  M.) 
Crystal  Cascade  (80ft.  ; hence  to  Tuckermaris  Ravine^  see  p.  170). 
A steep  road  to  the  left  farther  on  joins  the  (IY2  M.)  carriage-road 
from  the  site  of  the  Glen  Ho.  to  Mt.  Washington  (p.  170),  2M.  above 
the  toll-house.  About  1 1/2  M.  farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  a path  lead- 
ing to(74M.)  Thompson's  Falls  and  Emerald  Fool  (guide-board). 

11  M.  (from  Jackson)  Site  of  the  Glen  House  (1630  ft.),  a large 
summer-hotel,  burned  down  in  1894  and  not  rebuilt.  This,  owing 
to  its  fine  situation  on  the  Peabody  River,  at  the  N.E.  base  of  Mt. 
Washington,  with  Mts.  Clay,  Jefferson,  Adams,  and  Madison  form- 
ing a grand  line  of  summits  to  the  N.  of  it,  was  long  a favourite 
centre  for  excursions  in  the  White  Mts.  and  particularly  for  the  as- 
cent of  Mt.  Washington,  the  carriage-road  to  the  top  of  which  begins 
here  (comp.  p.  170).  There  is  now  no  accommodation  for  tourists  here. 

Among  the  ascents  conveniently  accomplished  from  this  point  are 
those  of  Carter  Dome  (4860  ft. ; to  the  Carter  Notch,  with  a club-camp 
3-4hrs.j  thence  to  the  top  IV2-2V2 hrs.)  and  Wild-Cat  (Mib it.-,  l-lV2hr! 
from  Carter  Notch).  The  latter  commands  a fine  *View  of  Mt.  Washington. 
— Good  walkers  may  reach  the  top  of  Mt.  Washington  via  Mts.  Madison, 
Adams,  Jefferson,  and  Clay  in  9 hrs.  (with  guide);  and  the  Appalachian 
Club  has  also  constructed  a blazed  path  along  the  whole  Carter  Range 
(8  M. ; fine  views)  to  Mt.  Moriah  (p.  163).  — On  the  Peabody,  about  3/4 
to  the  N,,  are  the  so-called  Garnet  Pools,  and  a visit  may  also  be  paid  to 
the  Osgood  Cascades,  IV4M.  to  the  N.W.  — "Tuc1cerman''s  Ravine,  seep.  170. 

Beyond  the  Glen  House  site  the  road  descends  through  the 
^Peabody  Glen,  affording  a series  of  fine  views.  By  crossing  (2  M.) 
the  bridge  over  the  Peabody  and  turning  to  the  right,  we  may 
reach  a point  revealing  the  profile  of  Imp  Mt.  Farther  on  our  road 
crosses  the  river  and  soon  reaches  — 

19  M.  (from  Jackson)  Gorham  (see  below). 

c.  Gorham  and  Randolph. 

Gorham  (810  ft.;  ^Alpine  House,  $2-3;  Island  View  Ho.,  $2), 
the  N.  gateway  to  the  White  Mts.,  is  a village  with  about  1800 
inhab.,  finely  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Androscoggin  and  the 
Peabody  and  commanding  a charming  view  of  hill  and  valley.  To 
the  S.  is  the  Peabody  valley,  with  Mts.  Moriah  and  Carter  to  the 
left;  to  the  N.E. , Mt.  Hayes;  to  the  N.W.,  the  Pilot  Mts.  The 
peaks  of  the  Presidential  Range  (see  p.  159)  are  concealed  by  Pine 
Mt.  (2440  ft.),  which  rises  in  the  S.W.  foreground,  but  they  are 
well  seen  from  adjacent  points.  Numerous  delightful  excursions 
can  be  made  in  the  neighbourhood  (see  below). 

A good  point  of  view  in  the  immediate  vicinity  is  the  Larg  Farm 
(3/4  M.  to  the  N.).  — Perhaps  the  best  of  the  shorter  walks  is  that  to 
the  top  of  Mt.  Hayes  (2600  ft.),  2 M.  to  the  N.E.  The  easy  and  well 
marked  path  begins  at  the  N.  end  of  the  suspension-bridge  over  the  Andros- 
coggin and  ascends  directly,  through  wood,  to  (IV2  M.)  the  ridge  and  (V2  M.) 
the  summit.  The  "View  includes  (from  left  to  right)  Mt.  Moriah,  Imp  Mt., 
and  Carter  Mt.  to  the  S. ; the  valley . of  the  Peabody  (Pinkham  Notch),  a 
little  to  the  right;  to  the  S.W.,  Mt.  VZashington,  the  low  Pine  Mt.  (in 


Mountains. 


RANDOLPH. 


16.  Route.  163 


the  foreground),  Mt.  Madison,  and  Mt.  Adams ; to  the  W.,  Cherry  Mt.,  OwPs 
Head,  and  (more  to  the  right)  Randolph  Mt.  and  Mt.  Starr  King^  to  the 
!N.W.,  the  Pilot  Mts.,  Deer  Mt.,  and  the  twin  Percy  Peaks.  Some  author- 
ities consider  this  the  best  view  of  Mt.  Washington. 

Mt.  Surprise  (2230  ft.),  a spur  of  Mt.  Moriah,  to  the  S.E.  of  Gorham, 
may  he  ascended  in  2 hrs.  by  a path  through  wood  (hoy  to  show  its 
beginning  desirable),  and  commands  a fine  *View  of  the  Presidential 
Range  (good  camp  at  the  top).  — A well-marked  path  leads  hence  to  the 
(2-3  hrs.)  top  of  Mt.  Moriah  (4065  ft.  *,  "View),  whence  the  walk  may  be 
continued  along  the  Carter  Range  (comp.  p.  162). 

Mountain  waggons  run  in  connection  with  the  train,  from  Gorham,  via 
the  Glen  House  site  (p.  162)  to  the  top  of  (I6V2  M.)  Mt.  Washington 
(5  hrs.  5 return  3 hrs.^  fare  $8;  comp.  p.  170).  Stages  also  ply  to  (19  M.) 
Jackson  (4  hrs. ; fare  $ 4 ; comp.  p.  161). 

Pleasant  drives  may  also  be  taken  along  the  S.  bank  of  the  Andros- 
coggin to  (11  M.  to  the  E.)  Gilead  Bridge.^  returning  on  the  N.  bank  by 
the  Lead  Mine  Bridge  (3V2  M.  from  Gorham;  *View);  to  the  N.,  along  the 
‘Milan  Road’  to  (6  M.)  Berlin  (p.  143)  and  (14  M.)  Milan  Corner;  and  W. 
to  the  Crawford  House  (see  below)  and  the  White  Mt.  Notch  (p.  164),  either 
(35  M.)  via  (17  M.)  Jefferson.,  the  ‘Cherry  Mt.  Road’,  the  White  Mt.  House 
(p.  165),  and  the  Fabyan  House  (p.  165;  splendid  views);  or  (25  M.)  by  the 
new  road  leaving  the  Jefferson  road  between  Bowman  (see  below)  and 
Highlands  (p.  143)  and  ascending  through  the  Jefferson  Notch  (comp.  Map). 
A grand  walk  for  a good  pedestrian  would  be  to  ascend  Mt.  Madison  (p.  162) 
and  proceed  thence  via  Mts.  Adams  and  Jefferson  (see  p.  168)  to  Mt.  Washington 
(guide  necessary ; 1-2  days). 

Gorham  is  a station  on  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  from  Portland  to 
Montreal  (see  p.  143),  and  on  the  B.  & M.  line  from  Berlin  to  Whitefield 
(comp.  p.  143,  and  see  Map,  p.  158). 

Eandolph.  is  the  name  of  the  township  adjoining  Gorham  on 
the  W.  and  as  a tourist  centre  may  be  taken  to  include  the  vici- 
nity of  the  three  stations  Randolph,  Appalachia,  and  Bowman,  on 
the  railway  from  Berlin  and  Gorham  to  Whitefield  (comp.  p.  143). 
The  chief  hotels  are  the  Ravine  House  ($  2Y2)  at  Appalachia,  the 
Mt.  Crescent  House  ($  2) , and  the  Mountain  View  House  ($  2). 
Randolph  is  frequented  mainly  by  ‘mountaineers’,  and  its  guides 
(comp.  p.  159)  are  the  best  in  the  district.  The  ‘blue  print’  map 
of  the  Appalachian  Mt.  Club,  corrected  yearly,  may  be  obtained  at 
any  hotel. 

The  chief  ascents  from  Randolph  are  the  following : Mt.  Madison  (5380  ft.), 
from  Appalachia,  in  3-4  hrs.  (club-hut  near  the  top);  Mt.  Adams  (5805  ft.), 
either  from  Appalachia  in  31/2-472  brs.  or  from  Bowman  via  Lowe’s  Path  in 
31/2-4  hrs.  \ Mt.  Jefferson  (5725  ft.),  from  Bowman  in  472-5  hrs. ; Mt.  Washington 
(p.  169),  via  Mt.  Jefferson,  in  one  day.  From  ‘Lowe’s  Path’  (see  above)  a 
path  ascends  to  the  left  through  King's  Ravine  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Adams.  — 
Randolph  Hill  (1700  ft.),  3 M.  from  Randolph  by  a good  road,  commands 
a fine  view  of  the  Presidential  Range.  — The  three  stations  named  above 
all  lie  on  the  road  between  Gorham  and  Jefferson  (comp,  above)  and  may 
be  made  the  starting-point  of  various  pleasant  drives. 

d.  Crawford  House  and  the  Notch. 

The  *Crawford  House  (1900  ft  ; from  $41/2  a day  or  $ 21  a 
week;  somewhat  cheaper  at  the  Annex),  one  of  the  most  deservedly 
popular  hotels  in  the  White  Mts.,  occupies  a solitary  site  on  a small 
plateau,  V4  M.  above  the  N.  entrance  to  the  White  Mt  Notch.  The 
small  pool  in  front  of  the  house  is  the  source  of  the  Saco  River, 

a* 


164  Route  16. 


CRAWFORD  NOTCH. 


The  White 


flowing  to  the  S.  through  the  Notch  to  Maine  and  the  sea,  while  the 
Ammonoosuc^  also  rising  close  to  the  hotel,  flows  N.  (and  then  W.) 
to  the  Connecticut.  The  railway-station  (p.  145)  is  near  the  hotel. 
To  the  W.  rises  Mt.  Tom  (see  helow)  and  to  the  E.  Mt.  Clinton  (see 
helow),  while  in  front,  enclosing  the  Notch,  are  Mt.  Willard  (see 
helow;  r.)  and  Mt.  Webster  (see  helow;  1.) 

The  railway  route  through  the  *Crawford  or  White  Mountain 
Notch  (1915  ft.)  has  been  described  at  p.  145  and  affords  some  of  the 
finest,  though  most  fleeting,  ^'iews  of  it.  The  Notch  is  seen  to  greater 
advantage  in  descending.  The  road  and  river  enter  it  through  a rocky 
*Gateway^  25  ft.  wide,  while  a separate  cutting  has  been  made  for 
the  railway  (above,  to  the  right).  To  the  left  is  the  rock  known 
as  ihQ  Elephanfs  Head  (^Yiew^).  Within  the  Notch  various  fantastic 
names  have  been  given  to  rocks  supposed  to  resemble  human  faces, 
etc.  About  ^/4M.  from  the  Crawford  Ho.,  to  the  left,  thQ  Flume 
Cascade  descends,  in  three  leaps,  from  a height  of  250  ft. ; and 
farther  on  is  the  graceful  *Silver  Cascade^  with  a total  fall  of 
900  ft.,  of  which  about  300  ft.  are  seen  from  the  road.  The  Willey 
House  (1325  ft.),  a small  inn  3 M.  from  the  Crawford  Ho.  and  300  ft. 
below  the  railway,  v/as  the  scene  of  a terrible  disaster  in  Aug.,  1826. 
The  whole  Willey  family,  9 in  number,  rushing  from  the  house  to 
escape  a land-slip,  apparently  descending  directly  upon  it,  were 
overtaken  and  crushed,  while  the  house  escaped  harm  through  the 
splitting  of  the  land-slide  by  a rock.  The  Notch  proper  ends  just 
below  the  site  of  the  Willey  Ho.  (burned  down  in  1899),  but  it  is 
well  worth  while  to  continue  the  walk  or  drive  to  Bemis,  whence, 
if  necessary,  we  may  return  by  railway.  At  the  (1V4"1V2  ^1-) 
or  Avalanche  Brook  (the  second  brook  below  the  Willey  Ho.),  we 
may  cross  the  railway  and  ascend  to  the  right  to  (1^/4  M.)  the  ^'Ripley 
or  Sylvan  Glade  Falls  (110  ft.),  about  1 M.  above  which  is  the 
Sparkling  Cascade.  Continuing  to  follow  the  road  along  the  Saco, 
we  reach  (2  M. ; 61/2  M.  from  the  Crawford  Ho.)  Bemis  Brook^  along 
which  a path  ascends  to  (1  M.)  the  picturesque  * Arethusa  Falls 
(175  ft.).  Bemis  (rail,  stat,  p.  145)  is  2 M.  farther  down.  The  Mts. 
to  the  left  at  this  part  of  the  road  are  the  Giant's  Stairs  (3423  ft.), 
Mt.  Resolution  (3400  ft.),  and  Mt.  Crawford  (3100  ft.),  while  Mt. 
Nancy  (3810  ft.)  towers  to  the  right.  Drivers  m,ay  go  on  from  Bemis 
to  (I8V2  M.)  North  Conway  (p.  160). 

*Mt.  Willard  (2786  ft.),  easily  ascended  by  a carriage-road (2 M.),  crossing 
the  railway  below  the  station,  commands  a splendid  ’’’View  of  the  Notch 
(afternoon-light  best).  Near  the  top  (S.  side)  is  a cavern  known  as  the 
Devil's  Den.,  accessible  by  ropes  only.  The  EitcJicoclc  Flume.,  350  ft.  long 
and  50  ft.  high,  is  reached  by  a path  to  the  left,  1/4  M.  from  the  summit.  — 
Ascent  of  *Mt.  Washington.,  see  p.  170.  — Ascents  of  Mts.  Clinton,  (4275  ft.). 
Pleasant  (4780  ft.),  Franklin  (50!B  ft.),  and  Monroe  (5390  ft.),  see  p.  171.  — 
The  ascents  of  Mt.  Webster  (3876  ft.)  and  Mt.  Jackson  (4012  ft.)  are  fatigu- 
ing and  unremunerative.  — The  views  from  Mt.  Tom  (4040  ft.)  and  Mt. 
Field  (4300  ft.)  are  also  obscured  by  trees,  but  that  from  the  easily  ascended 
Mt.  Avalon  (3432  ft.),  a spur  of  Mt.  Field,  is  fine  and  almost  unrestricted.  — 
A better  view  is  obtained  from  Mt.  Willey  (4261  ft, ; 2-3  hrs. ; well-marked 


Mountains.  FABYAN  HOUSE.  16.  Eoute.  166 

path  beginning  1 M.  above  Willey  Station^  3V4  M.  from  the  Crawford 
House). 

Pleasant  short  walks  may  be  taken  to  O/4  M.)  Beecher  Cascades  (path  cross- 
ing a foot-bridge  over  the  railway  and  ascending  through  wood  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  stream),  ’^Pearl  Cascade  (1  M.),  Bugle  Cliff  {^U  M.),  Red  Bench  (1/2  M.  •, 
view  of  Mt.  Washington),  and  the  Shapleigh  Path  (1  M.).  Gihhs  Falls  (1/2  M.) 
are  reached  by  turning  to  the  left  and  ascending  through  wood  and  along 
a brook. 

Between  the  Crawford  House  and  (4  M.)  Fabyan''s  (see  below)  the  road 
and  railway  descend  330  ft.  (80  ft.  per  mile). 


e.  Bretton  Woods,  Fabyan  House,  Twin  Mt.  House,  and  Zealand. 

Bretton  Woods  (an  old  name  revived),  31/2  from  the  Craw- 
ford House,  is  the  station  for  the  new  *Mount  Washington  Hotel 
(500  beds ; from  $ 5 or  $ 6 per  day)  and  the  older  *Mt.  Pleasant 
House  (from  $41/2  a day  or  $28  a week).  The  former  (ca.  1600  ft.), 
the  finest  hotel  in  the  White  Mts.,  is  splendidly  situated  on  a spur 
of  Mt.  Deception  (see  below)  and  commands  a magnificent  view. 
The  Mt.  Pleasant  House  is  close  to  the  railway  station  (see  p.  145). 
Between  the  two  hotels  lies  an  excellent  golf-course. 

From  the  Mt.  Pleasant  House  a path  ascends  to  the  top  of  Mt.  SUckney 
(view).  — A coach  runs  on  week-days  between  the  Mt.  Washington  Hotel 
and  the  Crawford  Ho.  (p.  163). 

Upper  Falls  of  the  Ammonoosuc,  23/4  M.  from  the  Mt.  Washington 
Hotel.  We  follow  the  road  to  the  left,  passing  a Monument  to  E.  A, 
Crawford^  one  of  the  earliest  settlers  in  the  White  Mts.  The  ""^Falls  (30-40  ft. 
high)  are  picturesque,  with  their  grey  granite  walls,  water-worn  basins, 
and  grand  mountain-background.  — The  (23/4  M.)  Lower  Ammonoosuc  Falls 
are  near  the  White  Mt.  House  (see  below). 

The  Fabyan  House  (1577ft.;  from  $41/3  a day,  or  $21  a week; 
less  at  the  Annex),  another  large  hostelry,  stands  on  the  site  of  the 
Oianfs  Grave,  a drift-mound  on  the  Ammonoosuc  river,  Y2  fo 
the  W.  of  the  Mt.  Washington  Hotel.  It  commands  fine  views  of 
the  mountains  and  is  the  junction  of  the  railway  to  the  top  of  Mt. 
Washington  (see  p.  170;  comp.  pp.  145,  156). 

The  old  -White  Mt.  House  ($21/2),  V4  M.  to  the  N.W.  (rail,  stat.,  see 
p.  145)  is  smaller  and  cheaper.  A path  ascends  hence  to  the  top  of  Mt. 
Deception  (3700  ft.). 

The  Twin  Mountain  House  (1375  ft.;  from  $3  a day  or  $14 
a week;  rail,  stat.,  p.  145)  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Ammonoosuc, 
5 M.  to  the  W.  of  the  Fabyan  House,  but  does  not  command  so  fine 
a view.  The  mountains  opposite  it  are  Mt.  Hale  (4100  ft. ; left)  and 
the  North  Twin  (4783  ft. ; right),  the  latter  concealing  tl\Q  South  Twin 
(4922  ft.).  The  smaller  Rosebrooh  Inn  ($  2)  may  also  be  mentioned. 

The  path  to  the  top  of  the  North  Twin  Mt.  is  marked  with  sign-posts, 
but  a guide  is  desirable  (3-4  hrs.).  The  continuation  thence  to  the  South 
Tioin  is  still  easy  to  follow. 

From  Zealand  (p.  145),  1 M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Twin  Mt.  Ho.,  we  may 
mllow  a disused  railway-track  to  (7  M.)  Zealand  Pond  (2460  ft.)  and  (9  M.) 
Thoreau  Falls,  which  descend  200  ft.  in  ^2  M.,  in  the  deep  valley  between 
Mt.  Bond  (4710  ft.)  on  the  right  and  the  Willey  Mt.  (p.  164)  on  the  left. 


166  Boute  16. 


BETHLEHEM. 


The  White 


f.  Bethlehem  and  Maplewood. 

Bethlehem  and  Maplewood  are  reached  by  a short  narrow-gauge  railway 
from  Bethlehem  Junction  (comp.  p.  145  and  above). 

The  train  from  Bethlehem  Junction  (p.  145)  soon  reaches  — 

2 M.  Maplewood,  a small  station  for  a group  of  hotels  and  summer 
cottages.  The  ^Maplewood  (1490  ft. ; from  $472,  weekly  from  $ 21 ; 
400  guests),  one  of  the  handsomest  and  most  fashionable  hotels  in  the 
White  Mts.,  commands  a splendid  distant  *View  of  Mt.  Washington. 
Adjacent  are  the  Maplewood  Cottage  (from  $3  a day  and  $1272 
a week)  and  a Oolf  Course.  Public  conveyances  run  frequently  to 
Bethlehem  (10  c.).  Mt.  Agassiz  (see  below  5 2 M.)  is  ascended  by  a 
path  beginning  behind  the  Maplewood  Hotel  and  proceeding  through 
wood  past  (1  M.)  a view-tower.  The  Bethlehem  excursions  (see 
below)  may  all  be  made  from  Maplewood. 

3 M.  Bethlehem  {Sinclair  House^  $^72  5 Highland  Ho.^  The 
Alpine.,  The  Uplands,  Arlington,  $272-3;  Turner  Ho.,  $2-272  5 
and  many  others),  with  1260  inhab.,  finely  situated  1460  ft.  above 
the  sea  and  260  ft.  above  the  Ammonoosuc,  is  visited  annually  by 
10-15,000  summer  - guests.  Its  lofty  situation  makes  it  cool  in 
summer,  and  it  commands  magnificent  views  of  the  White  Mts., 
while  the  Green  Mts.  are  visible  to  the  W.  The  ‘White  Mountain 
Echo’  is  published  here. 

Mt.  Agassiz  (2395  ft.),  which  rises  at  the  back  of  the  village,  is 
ascended  in  3/4-I  hr.  We  follow  the  road  leading  S.  from  the  Sinclair  Ho. 
to  (25  min.)  a house  with  a sign  referring  to  the  toll  to  Mt.  Agassiz  (25  c.,  pay- 
able only  by  those  who  wish  to  enter  the  view-tower).  Here  we  turn  to 
the  left  and  follow  the  path  through  wood  to  (25  min.)  the  top.  The 
*View  includes  mountains  on  every  side,  the  names  of  which  are  given 
by  rough  mountain-indicators  on  the  top  of  the  view- tower.  Mt.  Wash- 
ington is  seen  to  the  E.,  Mt.  Lafayette  to  the  S,,  the  Green  Mts.  to  the  W. 
The  descent  may  be  made  to  Maplewood  (see  above;  not  advisable  in  waning 
light,  as  the  ‘trail’  through  the  woods  is  not  very  distinct).  — Cruffs 
Ledge,  2 M.  to  the  E.  (reached  by  a path  beginning  beyond  the  Maple- 
wood Hotel),  and  Wallace  Hill,  374  M.  to  the  W.,  are  other  good  points 
of  view.  — Favourite  drives  are  the  Cherry  Valley  Drive  (5  M.),  Around  the 
Heater  (6  M.;  views  of  Franconia  Mts.),  to  (T  M.)  Twin  Mt.  Ho.,  to  (Ti/z  M.) 
Sugar  Hill,  to  (10  M.)  Profile  House  (also  reached  by  train,  see  below),  to 
(15  M.)  Jefferson,  and  to  (17  M.)  Crawford  House.  To  reach  the  top  of  Mt, 
Washington  via  Fabyan’s  takes  2-2V2hrs.  by  train. 


g.  The  Franconia  Mts.  Profile  House. 

The  Franconia  Mts.,  included  in  the  wider  acceptation  of  the 
name  White  Mts.  (seep.  159),  is  the  small  group  of  summits  between 
the  Twin  Mt.  Range  on  the  E.  and  the  Pemigewasset  Range  on  the 
W.  The  sharp-peaked  Mt.  Lafayette  (p.  167)  is  the  monarch  of 
the  group,  and  the  Profile  House  is  the  chief  tourist -centre.  On 
the  W.  the  range  is  bounded  by  the  Franconia  Notch  (p.  167), 
though  in  popular  speech  the  term  includes  the  mountains  to  the  W. 
of  this  valley.  Most  of  the  Franconia  Mts.  are  densely  wooded. 

The  is  reached  from.  Bethlehem  Junction  by  a narrow-gauge 


Mountains, 


PROFILE  HOUSE. 


16,  Route.  167 


railway,  10  M.  long,  which  runs  through  wood  and  affords  little  view.  To 
the  right,  as  we  approach  the  terminus,  lies  Echo  Lake  (see  below).  — 
Route  to  the  Profile  House  from  Plymouth.^  through  the  Pemigewasset  Valley. 
see  p.  156. 

The  Profile  House  (1974  ft.  5 from  $ 5,  weekly  from  $ 25),  one 
of  the  largest  of  the  White  Mt.  hotels,  stands,  with  its  group  of  cot- 
tages, at  the  N.  end  of  the  Franconia  Notch  (see  below),  to  the  W.  of 
Mt.  Lafayette. 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  hotel,  to  the  right  (E.)  of  the  road,  is  the 
pretty  little  *Echo  Lake  (1925  ft.),  where  fine  echoes  are  aroused  by  bugle 
(small  fee ; steam-launch  round  the  lake,  1-5  pers.  75  c.,  each  addft.  pers. 
15  c.).  At  the  foot  of  the  lake  is  Arlist)-^  Bluff.,  a good  point  of  view.  — 
Eagle  Cliff  (1470  ft.  above  the  hotel),  close  to  the  hotel  on  the  E.,  is  a 
fine  specimen  of  rock-formation  (well  seen  from  Profile  Mt.).  — Profile 
Mt.  or  Mt.  Cannon  (4107  ft.),  opposite  the  Eagle  Cliff,  is  ascended  in 
2-21/2  hrs.  by  a somewhat  steep  path  beginning  to  the  S.  of  the  hotel  and 
running  first  through  wood  and  then  over  rocky  ledges.  =^View  of  Mt. 
Lafayette.  The  Gannon  Rock  lies  a little  below  the  summit,  on  the  E. 
side.  The  Profile  Ledges  (see  below),  reached  from  above  by  a somewhat 
steep  scramble  (no  path),  afford  one  of  the  best  points  of  view.  — Bald 
Mt.  (2310  ft.),  to  the  N.  of  Echo  Lake , is  easily  ascended  in  1/4  hr.  by  a 
cart-track  diverging  to  the  right  from  the  road,  1 M.  to  the  N.  of  the 
hotel  (*View;  afternoon-light  best).  — -Mt.  Lafayette  (5270  ft.)  is  ascended 
in  21/2-31/2  hrs.  by  a steep  bridle-path  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  road 
in  front  of  the  hotel  and  skirting  the  S.  side  of  Eagle  Cliff  (to  Eagle  Lakes, 
IV4-IV4  hr.;  thence  to  the  top  about  as  long).  The  sharp  pyramidal 
summit  commands  a splendid  *View,  including  the  Pemigewasset  Valley 
to  the  S.,  the  Connecticut  Valley  and  the  Green  Mts.  to  the  W.,  and  Mt. 
Garfield  (close  at  hand)  and  the*  Presidential  Range  to  the  N.E. 

Most  of  the  excursions  from  the  Flume  House  (p.  lOS)  can  be  made 
from  the  Profile  House  at  a small  additional  expenditure  of  time. 

The  '’'Franconia  Notch  is  a narrow  wooded  defile,  5 M.  long, 
traversed  by  the  Pemigewasset  River  and  flanked  by  the  Franconia 
Mts.  on  the  E.  and  the  Pemigewasset  Range  on  the  W.  It  lies  about 
2000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  the  enclosing  mountains  rise  1500- 
3000  ft.  higher.  Frequent  coaches  run  through  the  Notch  to  (5M.) 
the  Flume  Ho.  and  thence  to  (5  M.)  North  Woodstock  (p.  156). 

Starting  from  the  Profile  House  to  walk  or  drive  through  the 
Notch  to  (5  M.)  the  Flume  House  (p.  168),  we  soon  reach  a sign- 
post by  the  roadside  marking  the  best  point  of  view  for  the  '"^‘Profile 
or  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain,  a curious  freak  of  nature  formed  by 
three  protruding  and  disconnected  ledges,  1200  ft.  above  us,  on  the 
side  of  Cannon  or  Profile  Mt.  (right;  see  Hawthorne's  ‘Great  Stone 
Face’).  Below  the  Profile,  to  the  right  of  the  road,  1/2  M.  from  the 
hotel,  is  Profile  Lake  (boats).  The  road  for  the  most  part  runs 
through  wood  and  affords  no  views.  About  2V2  M.  from  the  hotel,  to 
the  right,  a bridle-path  diverges  to  (I74  M.)  Lonesome  or  Moran 
Lake,  on  Cannon  Mt.,  1000  ft.  above  the  road.  To  the  left,  V2 
farther  on,  is  a sign-post  indicating  the  way  to  Walker' s Falls  (1/2  M.) 
and  Cataract  (1  M.).  These  lie  in  the  White  Cross  Ravine,  below 
Mt.  Lincoln  (5098  ft.),  to  the  S.  of  Mt.  Lafayette.  To  the  right, 

1 M.^  farther  on,  is  the  Basin,  a small  pool  by  the  roadside,  where 
the  imaginative  see  the  form  of  a human  foot  and  leg  in  the  rocks. 


168  Route  16, 


JEFFERSON. 


The  White 


A small  brook  coming  in  here  may  be  ascended  to  (2/4  M.)  the 
Tunnel  Falls. 

5 M.  The  *Flume  House  (1430  ft. ; $ 3Y2j  weekly  from  $ 14), 
at  the  S.  end  of  the  Franconia  Notch,  is  smaller,  quieter,  and  cheaper 
than  the  Profile  House,  and  well  situated  for  excursions.  It  lies  at 
the  base  of  Mt.  Pemigewasset,  opposite  Mt.  Liberty  and  Mt.  Flume. 

A sign-post  in  front  of  tbe  hotel  indicates  the  route  to  (^4  M.)  the 
*Flume,  a fine  rocky  gorge,  700  ft.  long,  60-70  ft.  high,  and  iO-20  ft. 
wide.  It  is  traversed  by  a foaming  stream,  up  which  the  path  is  carried 
by  wooden  galleries  and  bridges.  Extensive  traces  are  still  discernible  of 
the  landslip  of  1883,  which  carried  away  the  boulder  formerly  suspended 
in  the  narrowest  part  of  the  ravine.  — Another  sign-post  in  front  of  the 
hotel  points  to  (V2  M.)  the  *Pool.,  a basin  in  the  solid  rock,  150  ft.  wide 
and  40  ft.  deep,  over-shadowed  by  cliffs  150  ft.  high.  — The  fine  (3  M.) 
^Georgianna  or  Harvard  Falls  (two  leaps  of  80  ft.)  are  reached  hy  a path 
leaving  the  highroad  to  the  right  at  a farm-house  (guide),  1 M.  to  the 
S.  of  the  Flume  House. 

Mt.  Liberty  (4472  ft.  ^ viev/)  may  be  ascended  in  3-4  hrs.  (descent 
2-3  hrs.)  by  a path  via  the  head  of  the  Flume  and  Langton's  Falls.  This 
path  is  continued  to  the  (2  M.)  top  of  Mt.  Haystack.  A long  (9-10  hrs.)  but 
interesting  walk  leads  along  the  ridge  from  Mt.  Liberty  to  Mt.  Lafayette, 
via  Mt.  Haystack.  — The  ascent  of  Mt.  Flume  (4340  ft.  5 "View)  is  some- 
what arduous.  — Mt.  Pemigewasset  (2560  ft.),  ascended  by  a steep  bridle- 
path in  V2-I  hr.,  is  a good  and  easily  reached  view-point. 

Franconia  (920  ft.;  Forest  Hill  Hotel.^  $4;  Franconia  Inn.,  $3;  Mt.  Lafa- 
yette Ho..,  $2,  etc.),  situated  on  the  Gale  River.,  6 M.  to  the  S.  of  Littleton 
(p.  156 ; daily  coaches),  4 M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Bethlehem,  and  4 M.  to  the  N.E. 
of  the  Profile  Ho.,  is  frequented  by  many  summer-visitors.  It  affords  good 
views  of  the  Franconia  Mts.  and  is  a fair  centre  for  excursions. 

Sugar  Hill  (1350  ft.;  Sunset  Hill  Ho.,  $ 4;  Hotel  Look  Off,  $ 3V2;  Mira- 
monte,  $ 8-41/2,  etc.),  21/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Franconia,  is  another  favourite 
resort  (rail,  station,  see  p.  156).  The  "View  from  the  summit  of  the  ridge 
(1780  ft.)  from  which  the  village  takes  its  name  is  superb.  A golf-course 
has  been  laid  out  here. 


h.  Jelferson. 

Jefferson  (1440  ft.;  *Waumbek,  Waumbek  Hall,  The  Jefferson, 
these  three  from  $4;  Maple  Ho.,  $3;  Grand  View  Ho., 
situated  on  a spur  of  Mt.  Starr  King,  above  the  Israel  River,  is  a station 
on  the  Boston  & Maine  R.  R.  and  lies  about  2 M.  from  Starr  King 
Station  on  the  Maine  Central  line  (p.  145;  hotel-omnibuses  to  meet 
the  trains),  12  M.  to  the  N.  of  Fabyan’s,  and  17  M.  to  the  W.  of 
Gorham  (comp.  p.  163).  It  commands  what  many  consider  the  finest 
general  *View  of  the  White  Mts. 

Mt.  Starr  King  (3915  ft.),  the  southernmost  summit  of  the  Pilot 
Range,  is  ascended  by  a well-marked  path  from  the  Waumbek  Ho.  in 
11/2-274  hrs.  The  ’"View  embraces  the  White  Mts.,  the  Franconia  Mts., 
the  Green  Mts.,  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut,  and  the  Pilot  Mts.  (to  the 
N.).  — Owl’s  Head  (3270  ft.;  view)  is  generally  ascended  from  its  W. 
side  by  a path  (I1/2  hr.;  fee)  beginning  at  King^s  Farm,  6 M.  from  Jeffer- 
son. — About  5 M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Jefferson,  on  the  road  to  Gorham,  is 
the  Mt.  Adams  House  ($  2),  31/2  M.  beyond  which  begins  ‘Lowe’s  Path’  up 
Mt.  Adams  (see  p.  163).  — Bray  Hill  (1640  ft.),  an  eminence  6 M.  to  the 
S.W.  of  Jefferson,  affords  a good  view. 

The  *Dkive  from  Jefferson  to  (17  M.)  Gorham  (comp.  p.  163)  or  (19  M.) 
the  Glen  House  Site  affords  a splendid,  unimpeded  *View  of  the  N.  side  of 
the  Presidential  Range ; and  that  to  (18  M.)  the  Crawford  House  (p.  163), 


Mountains. 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


16.  Route.  169 


either  via  the  Cherry  Mt.  Road  or  through  the  Jetferson  Notch  (comp.  p.  163) 
is  also  fine.  Other  favourite  drives  are  the  rounds  via  Stag  Hollow  and 
the  Valley  Road  (9  M.},  and  via  Blair's  Mills,  the  Valley  Road,  and  Cherry 
Mt.  Road  (18  M.).  Lancaster  (p.  145)  is  7 M.  to  the  W.N.W. 


i.  Mount  Washington. 


Mt.  Washington  (6293  ft.),  the  highest  mountain  in  the  United 
States  to  the  E.  of  the  Rockies  and  N.  of  N.  Carolina , deserves  its 
rank  as  monarch  of  the  White  Mts.  as  much  for  the  grandeur  of  its 
form  as  for  its  height.  On  the  N.  and  E.  it  is  furrowed  hy  several 
huge  ravines,  of  which  Tuckerman’s  (see  p.  170)  is  the  hest-known. 

The  group  of  buildings  at  the  top  includes  the  Summit  House,  a com- 
fortable inn  in  which  the  night  may  be  spent  ($5  a day,  $ 21  a week  • 
meal  or  bed  $ IV2) ; a disused  U.  S.  Signal  Service  Station;  a view-tower 
(small  fee)  j the  office  of  ''Among  the  Clouds' , a daily  paper  published  here 
in  summer;  the  old  Tip-Top  House  stables';  an  engine-house,  etc. 

The  summit  is  now  annually  visited  by  about  10, (XX)  people.  Warm  clothing 
brought,  as  even  at  midsummer  the  temperature  is  very  low 
(oU-oO  ).  A temperature  of  60°  below  zero  has  been  observed  in  winter. 

Botanists  will  find  much  to  interest  them  in  the  flora  of  Mt.  Washington, 
the  plan^  on  and  near  the  summit  being  identical  with  those  of  the  Arctic 
Circle.  The  happiest  hunting-ground  is  the  so-called  ^Alpine  Garden',  a 
terrace  to  the  E.  of  and  below  the  cone.  See  the  Geology  of  New  Hampshire. 

The  ordinary  starting-points  for  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Washington  are  the 
habyan  House,  the  Crawford  Ho.,  and  the  Glen  Ho.  site,  while  the  route 
over  the  Northern  Peaks  (p.  171)  is  a favourite  one  with  tried  pedestrians. 

ascend  one  way  and  descend  another.  The  routes  from 
the  E.  side  (p.  170)  are,  perhaps,  the  finest.  A good  walker  can  ascend  from 
the  Crawford  Ho.  and  descend  to  the  Glen  Ho.  site  in  one  day. 

The  *^'ViBW'  from  Mt.  Washington  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most 


extensive  in  the  Eastern  States,  reaching  into  Canada  on  the  N.  It 
is  particularly  grand  at  sunrise  or  sunset,  hiit  the  summit  is  some- 
times swathed  in  mist  or  clouds  for  days  at  a time.  The  atmospheric 
phenomena  are  often  very  interesting. 

View.  To  the  N.,  across  the  ‘Great  Gulf,  rise  Mts.  Clay,  Jefterson, 
Adams,  and  Madison;  a little  farther  to  the  right  are  Mt.  Hayes  and  the 
Androscoggin  Valley.  Gorham  is  hidden  by  Pine  Mt.  To  the  N.E.  we 
look  over  the  deep  valley  in  which  the  Glen  House  lay  to  Mt.  Moriah, 

<^arter  Dome,  Carter  Notch 
and  Mt.  Wild-Cat.  In  the  distance,  towards  the  N.E.,  are  the  Rangeley 
Cakes  and  mountains  on  the  Canadian  border.  To  the  E.  we  see  Baldface,  Mt. 
Bieasant  (with  its  hotel),  and  other  lower  mountains,  in  the  State  of  Maine 
io  the  S.E.  are  the  pyramidal  Mt.  Kearsarge  and  other  hills  round  North 
Conway,  with  the  Ellis  River  flowing  down  to  join  the  Saco.  Directly 
below  us  IS  Tuckerman’s  Ravine.  Lake  Sebago  is  also  seen,  while  Port- 
land and  the  ocean  are  visible  on  a clear  morning.  To  the  S.  are  Ossipee 
cake  and  Lake  Winnipesaukee,  with  Mt.  Chocorua  between  them,  while 
more  in  the  foreground  are  the  Giant’s  Stairs,  and  Mt.  Webster,  rising 
over  the  White  Mt.  Notch.  The  stream  seen  here  is  the  Mt.  Washington 
River.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Notch  (S..W.)  rise  Mts.  Nancy,  Carrigain, 
Willey,  and  Field,  while  Mt.  Moosilauke  appears  on  the  horizon  a little 
w right.  The  Lakes  of  the  Clouds  lie  below  Mt.  Monroe,  in 
the  S.W.  foreground.  To  the  S.  of  W.  the  finely-shaped  Mt.  Lafayette  is 
se<.n  among  the  other  Franconia  Mts.;  while  almost  due  W.  opens  the 
Ammonoosuc  (with  the  Mt.  Washington  and  Fabyan  Hotels), 
fihoAT  w and  even  the  Adirondacks  visible  in  the  distance.  To 

the  N.W.  are  Cherry  Pond,  Jefferson,  and  the  Israel  River,  with  Mt.  Starr 


170  Route  16. 


MOUNT  WASHINGTON. 


King  and  the  Percy  Peaks  in  the  distance.  The  most  distant  points  said  to 
he  visible  in  exceptionally  favourable  weather  are  Mt.  Beloeil  (p.  154), 
135  M.  to  the  N.W.;  Mt.  Wachusett  (p.  148),  126  M.,  and  Mt.  Monadnock 
fp.  148),  104  M.  to  the  W.  of  S.  ^ and  Mt.  Whiteface  (p.  216),  130  M.  to  the  W. 

Ascent  of  Mt.  Washington  by  Railway.  A branch-line  runs 
from  the  Fabyan  House  (p.  165)  via  Bretton  Woods  (p.  165)  to 
(6  M.)  Marshfield  or  Ammonoosuc,  generally  known  as  the  Base 
Station  (2670  ft.),  the  starting-point  of  the  Mt.  Washington 
Railway,  which  was  constructed  on  the  cog-wheel  principle  in 
1866-69  (before  the  Rigi  Railway)  and  ascends  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  mountain.  The  distance  to  the  summit  (3l/io  M.)  is  accomplished 
in  2hrs.  (return-fare  $ 4) ; the  average  gradient  is  1 : 4,  the  maximum 
gradient  1 : 22/3.  The  season  begins  in  July,  and  two  or  more  trains 
run  daily.  This  is  by  far  the  most  frequented  ascent. 

The  train  ascends  steeply  through  wood.  3/4  m.  Cold  Spring.  Beyond 
(1  M.)  Waumhek  Junction  (3910  ft. ; water-station)  the  trees  become  thinner. 
At  JacoV's  Ladder  (5470  ft.;  water-tank),  a long  trestle-work,  30ft.  high 
in  the  middle,  the  gradient  is  at  its  steepest.  We  now  pass  the  forest  line 
and  enjoy  fine  views.  To  the  left  are  the  ‘humps’  of  Mt.  Clay.,  with  the 
‘Great  Gulf  yawning  below  them  and  the  peaks  of  Mts.  Jefferson  and  Adams 
above.  From  the  (2^4  M.)  Gulf  Tank  (5800  ft.)  to  the  summit  the  ascent 
is  easier.  We  see  the  carriage-road  to  the  left,  and  pass  the  monument 
(right)  erected  on  the  spot  where  Miss  Bourne  died  of  exhaustion  in  1855. 
3 M.  The  Summit  Bouse  (see  p.  169). 

Ascent  from  the  E.  Side.  An  excellent  carriage-road  (average 
gradient  1 : 8)  was  constructed  from  the  Glen  House  (see  p.  162)  to 
(8Y2  M.)  the  Summit  House  in  1854,  and  mountain-carriages  ascend 
by  this  route  from  Gorham  in  5 hrs.  (return-fare  $ 8 each,  incl. 
toll;  descent  $ 3).  Toll  for  foot-passengers  17c.  — Walkers  may 
also  ascend  from  the  Pinkham  Notch  via  Tuckermans  Ravine  in 
4Y2”6  hrs. 

a.  By  Road.  From  the  Glen  House  site  the  road  at  first  ascends 
rapidly  through  wood,  and  2 31.  up  is  joined  by  the  road  mentioned  at 
p.  162.  31/2  M.  Halfway  House  (3840  ft.).  At  (4  31.)  the  Ledge  we  emerge 
from  the  trees  and  obtain  a fine  ’Wiew  of  the  ‘Great  Gulf,  with  the 
other  peaks  of  the  Presidential  Range  beyond  it.  The  road  now  ascends, 
less  steeply,  along  the  edge  of  the  Great  Gulf.  It  then  turns  sharply  to 
the  left  (S.S.E.)  and  ascends  along  a shoulder,  making  another  loop  to 
the  right  (‘Cape  Horn’’)  farther  up  (*Views).  The  final  ascent  of  the  cone 
is  steep. 

b.  On  Foot  through  Tuckerman’s  Ravine  (41/2-6  hrs.;  a fatiguing 
route,  hut  guide  not  necessary  for  mountaineers).  We  reach  the  ravine 
either  by  a footpath  made  by  the  Appalachian  Club  from  the  Crystal  Cascade 
(see  p.  162),  or  by  a path,  diverging  to  the  left  from  the  3It.  Washington 
road,  2 M.  from  the  Glen  House  site  (sign-post),  and  joining  (2  31.)  the 
Crystal  Cascade  path. 

" Tuckerman’s  Ravine  is  a huge  gorge  on  the  S.E.  side  of  3It.  Washing- 
ton, enclosed  by  towering  rocky  walls  1000  ft.  high.  Following  the  Ap- 
palachian path  from  the  Crystal  Cascade,  through  wood,  we  reach  the 
(I1/2  31.)  Hermit  Lake  (camp),  a sinall  tarn,  commanding  magnificent  views. 
A rough  walk  of  3/4  31.  hr.)  brings  us  hence  to  the  "Snow  Arch.,  in 

the  ravine  proper,  formed  by  the  stream  flowing  under  the  huge  masses  of 
snow  piled  up  here  in  winter.  The  arch  is  generally  to  be  seen  till  August. 
From  the  Snow  Arch  we  may  reach  the  summit  by  a hard  climb  of  l-lV2hr.; 
the  route  is  marked  by  white  paint  on  the  rocks.  Tuckerman’s  Ravine  is 
often  visited  as  an  excursion  from  the  Summit  Ho.  (there  and  back  3 hrs.) ; 
the  descent  to  the  Glen  Ho.  site  takes  3-31/2  hrs.  (view  best  in  descending). 


WESTFIELD. 


17.  Route.  171 


Ascent  from  the  Crawford  House  (4-6  hrs. ; guide  unneces- 
sary in  clear  weather}.  The  path  is  well  marked  and  commands  very 
extensive  views. 

The  path  begins  to  the  E.  of  the  Crawford  House  and  ascends  through 
wood  on  the  W.  side  of  Mt.  Clinton  (to  the  left  the  path  to  Gibbs  Falls. 
p.  165).  In  lV2-2hrs.  we  reach  the  summit  ofMt.  Clinton  (4275  ft.:  view) 
and  have  behind  us  the  worst  part  of  the  route.  The  path  now  leads 
along  a ridge  to  the  N.E.,  descends  about  270  ft.,  and  then  re-ascends 
The  regular  path  leads  to  the  right  over  the  S.E.  shoulder  of  Mt.  Pleasant 
(4780  ft. ; small  ‘castle’  at  the  top),  but  a less  distinct  trail  to  the  left  leads 
to  the  (3/4-1  hr.)  top  (-View),  where  the  footpath  from  the  Pleasant  Ho. 
comes  in  (see  below).  We  now  descend  in  the  same  general  direction  to  the 
Red  Pond^  on  the  plateau  (4400  ft.)  between  Mt.  Pleasant  and  Mt.  Franklin 
To  the  right,  beyond  the  pond,  is  Oakes  Gulf  (3000  ft. ; care  necessary  here 
in  foggy  weather).  Mt.  Franklin  (5028  ft.) , reached  in  1/2  hr.  from  Mt. 
Pleasant,  is  another  good  point  of  view.  Between  Mt.  Franklin  and  Mt.* 
Monroe  the  path  runs  along  a ridge,  without  much  change  of  level  It 
leads  round  the  S.  peak  of  Mt.  Monroe  and  bends  to  the  N.  To  the  E.  is 
BooWs  Spur  (5520  ft.),  to  the  left  the  small  Lakes  of  the  Clouds  (5050  ft.). 
3/4-1  hr.  Mt.  Monroe  (5390  ft.)  reached  by  a detour  of  1/2  hr.  from  the  main 
path,  commands  one  of  the  best  near  views  of  Mt.  Washington.  The  path 
next  passes  the  gap  (5100  ft.)  between  Mt.  Monroe  and  Mt.  Washington 
(with  the  Refuge  Hut  of  the  App.  Mt.  Club),  and  ascends  over  the  rocky 
latter  (the  last  part,  up  the  cone,  steep)  to 
(I-IV2  hr.)  the  top  of  Mt.  Washington  (p.  169). 

Ascent  from  the  Pleasant  House  (43/4-51/2  trs.). 

This  path  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  railway,  between  the  Mt. 
Pleasant  House  and  the  Base  Station,  follows  an  old  ‘logging  road’  for 
some  distance,  and  ascends  the  W.  side  of  Mt.  Pleasant,  at  the  (IV2-2  hrs  ) 
top  of  which  it  joins  the  Crawford  Path  (see  above). 

Route  over  the  Northern  Peaks  (1-11/2  day,  with  guide). 

The -Walk  over  Mts.  Madison,  Adams,  Jefferson,  and  Clay  to  the  summit 
of  Mt.  Washington  forms  a fine  but  trying  excursion  for  good  mountaineers 
with  trustworthy  guides.  It  is  possible  to  do  it  in  one  long  day,  but  it 
IS  preferable  to  take  two  days  and  pass  the  night  in  the  Madison  Spring 
Hut  of  the  Appalachian  Mt.  Club  (49(X)  ft.  5 open  to  all). 

The  * Views  are  very  grand.  Mt.  Madison  (5380  ft.)  may  be  ascended 
on  the  IS.  side  by  a path  beginning  at  Appalachia,  61/2  M>  to  the  W.  of 
Gorham  (comp.  p.  163),  but  the  old  trail  leading  from  the  Glen  House  is 
sfiould  not  be  attempted.  In  passing  from  Mt.  Madison 
to  Mt.  Adams,  we  dip  about  450  ft.,  and  the  Madison  Spring  Hut  is  in  this 
depression,  near  Star  Lake.  Mt.  Adams  (5805  ft.)  may  also  be  ascended 
by  the  path  ( Lowe’s  Path’)  mentioned  at  p.  161.  Storm  Lake  (4940  ft.)  lies 
in  the  hollow  between  Mt.  Adams  and  Mt.  Jefferson  (5725  ft  : *View  of 
Mt  Washington).  Between  Mt.  Jefferson  and  Mt.  Clay  (5554  ft.)  we  descend 
<dOtt.,  and  between  Mt.  Clay  and  Mt.  Washington  (p.  169)  940  ft 


17.  From  Boston  to  Albany. 


a.  By  Boston  & Albany  Railroad, 

<11  51/2-71/2  hrs.  (fare  $41/2;  parlor-car  $1;  si 

^ Saratoga  in  I1/4  hr.  more  (see  p.  225).  Through-i 

run  by  this  route  to  St.  Louis.^  Chicago.^  Cincinnati.^  etc. 


sleeper 
Through-trains 


From  Boston  (p.  94)  to  (99  M.)  Springfield.^  see  R.  4a.  The 
line  to  New  York  (see  p.  81)  diverges  here  to  the  left  (S.),  while 
out  line  crosses  the  Connecticut  and  runs  nearly  due  W.  through  the 
valley  of  the  Westfield  River.  108  M.  Westfield,  with  manufactures 


172  Route  17. 


GREENFIELD. 


of  wMps  and  cigars.  The  train  now  begins  to  ascend,  and  the  hills 
grow  higher.  119  M.  Huntington  (AQO  U.).  Beyond  (126  M.)  Chester 
(620  ft.)  the  line  climbs  rapidly  through  a rocky  and  wooded  valley, 
contracting  at  places  to  a wild  ravine.  Deep  rock- cuttings.  Numerous 
small  lakes.  Near  (134  M.)  Becket  (1200  ft. ; Claflin  Ho.,  $ 2)  we 
reach  the  flat  top  of  the  Hoosac  Range  (ca.  1400  ft.),  and  farther  on 
we  begin  to  descend  again  into  the  Berkshire  Valley.  For  a description 
of  the  Berkshire  Hills,  see  R.  19.  The  descent  to  (145  M.)  Dalton 
(1050  ft.;  Irving  Ho.,  $ 2-3)  is  rapid  and  the  scenery  picturesque. 
Beyond  it  we  cross  the  Housatonic  River.  — 151  M.  Pittsfield 
(1010  ft.),  junction  of  the  Berkshire  Division  of  the  N.  Y.  N.  H. 

& H.  R.  R.,  see  p.  179. 

From  Pittsfield  to  North  Adams,  21  M.,  railway  in  hr.  11  M. 
Cheshire;  1372  M.  Cheshire  Harbor,  the  starting-point  of  a path  to  the  top  of 
Greylock  (p.  180).  — 16  M.  Adams  (The  Barret,  from  $ 2),  with  a statue  of 
President  McKinley  (1843-1901),  by  Augustus  Lukeman,  is  the  nearest  station 
to  Greylock,  which  is  ascended  hence  by  a road  joining  the  just-mentioned 
path  from  Cheshire  Harbor.  — 21  M.  North  Adams^  see  p.  180.  North 
Adams  is  also  connected  with  PittsSeld  by  electric  tramway  (comp.  p.  180). 

To  theN.  (right),  at  some  distance,  rises  the  double-peaked  Grey- 
Jock  (p.  180).  The  train  now  crosses  the  Housatonic,  turns  to  the 
left  (S.),  passes  (154  M.)  West  Pittsfield  (with  a settlement  of  Shakers), 
and  at  (162  M.)  State  Line  enters  the  State  of  New  York.  We  leave 
the  Berkshire  Yalley  by  crossing  the  Taghkanic  or  Laconic  Range 
(ca.  2000  ft.)  and  then  traverse  an  undulating  wooded  district.  177  M. 
Chatham,  the  junction  of  lines  to  Hudson  (p.  193),  Lebanon  Springs 
(p.  179),  and  New  York  (comp.  p.  68);  185  M.  Niverville,  with  a 
line  park,  much  resorted  to  from  Albany.  Beyond  (200  M.)  Rensse- 
laer we  cross  the  Hudson  by  a fine  bridge  (view). 

202  M.  Albany,  see  p.  196. 

b.  Vifi  the  Koosac  Tunnel. 

198  M.  Fitchburg  Railroad  to  (191  M.)  Troy  in  572-8  hrs.  ^ New  York 
Central  or  Delaware  and  Hudson  River  Railroad  thence  to  (7  M.)  Albany 
in  73-72  hr.  (fares  as  above).  Saratoga  (p.  225)  is  reached  by  this  line,  via 
Johnsonville,  in  672-8  hrs.  Through- trains  run  to  the  Western  cities.  The 
line  skirts  the  N.  margin  of  the  Berkshire  Hills  (R.  19^  views  to  the  left). 

From  Boston  to  (60  M.)  South  Ashhurnham,  see  pp.  146-148.  At 
(65  M.)  Gardner  the  branch  from  Worcester  (p.  81)  to  Winchendon 
crosses  the  main  line. 

From  Princeton,  on  this  branch,  11  M.  to  the  S.  of  Gardner,  stages  run 
to  Mt.  Wachusett  (p.  148). 

From  (82  M.)  Athol  a branch  of  the  Boston  & Albany  R.  R.  runs 
to  Springfield  (p.  80).  Beyond  (97  M.)  MillePs  Palls  we  see  Mt.  Tohy 
(1275  ft.)  to  the  left'  and  Lake  Pleasant  (a  great  summer-resort  of 
Spiritualists)  to  the  right.  We  then  cross  the  Connecticut  and  the 
Deerfield  and  reach  (105  M.)  Greenfield  (Mansion  Ho.,  $272-^72? 
well  spoken  of;  American  Ho.,  $2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  B>  fB.\ounte 
summer-resort  and  the  junction  of  the  Conn.  River  Division  of  the 
B.  & M.  R.  R.  It  has  a tasteful  Soldiers’  Monument.  Excursions 


DANBURY. 


18.  Route,  173 


may  be  made  hence  to  (3  M.)  Deerfield  (p.  182),  Turner's  Falls 
(41/2  M.),  the  Coleraine^  Leyden^  and  Shelburne  Gorges,^  to  Springfield 
(p.  80 ; electric  tramway),  etc. 

The  train  now  follows  the  pretty  valley  of  the  Deerfield,  with 
Arthur's  Seat  (930  ft.)  to  the  right,  and  beyond  the  '^Deerfield  Gorge 
reaches  (119  M.)  Shelburne  Falls  (Hotel,  $ 2),  where  the  river  de- 
scends 150  ft.  in  two  or  three  distinct  falls.  To  the  N.  (right)  of  (128  M.) 
Charlemont,  where  Charles  Dudley  Warner  (1829-1900)  spent  his 
boyhood  (house  still  standing),  rises  Pocomtuck  Mt.  (1890  ft.).  The 
stream  is  crossed,  and  the  scenery  becomes  wilder.  Farther  on  we 
penetrate  the  Hoosac  Range  (2400  ft.)  by  the  (135  M.)  *Hoosac 
Tunnel  (765  ft.),  which  is  4^/4  M.  long  (transit  of  9 min. ; Mt.  Cenis 
Tunnel  71/2  M.)  and  was  made  in  1855-74  at  a cost  of  $ 20,000,000 
(4,000,000^.).  It  is  the  longest  tunnel  in  the  United  States. 

143  M.  North  Adams.,  see  p.  180.  The  train  descends  the  valley 
of  the  Hoosic.  To  the  left  rises  Greylock  (p.  180),  to  the  right  East 
Mt.  (2200  ft.).  148  M.  WilUamstown,  see  p.  180.  We  turn  to  the 
N.W.  (right),  cross  a corner  of  Vermont,  and  enter  New  York  State. 
164  M.  Hoosick  Falls  (trolley  to  Bennington,  p.  186,  3 M.);  166  M. 
Hoosick  Junction,  for  a branch-line  to  (11  M.)  Bennington  (p.  186) 
and  (68  M.)  Rutland  (p.  186). 

Near  (175  M.)  Johnsonville  are  the  picturesque  Falls  of  the 
Battenkil.  The  railway  forks  here,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Troy 
(see  below),  and  the  right  to  (189  M.)  Mechanicville  (p.  184)  and 
(212  M.)  Rotterdam  Junction  (p.  242). 

From  (188  M.)  East  Saratoga  Junction,  on  the  latter  branch,  a line  runs 
to  (18  M.)  Saratoga  (p,  225). 

191m.  Troy,  see  p.  186.  Thence  to  (198  M.)  Albany,  see  K.  20  c. 


18.  From  New  York  to  Pittsfield  {Berkshire  Hills). 

157  M.  York,  New  Haven,  and  Hartford  Railroad  in  4-6  hrs. 
(fare  $ 3.25 ; parlor-car  $ 1). 

From  New  York  to  (41 Y2  ^0  South  Norwalk,  see  p.  76.  The 
Danbury  Division  of  the  N.  Y.  N.  H.  & H.  R.  R.  here  diverges  to 
the  left  from  the  main  line  and  ascends  along  the  Norwalk  River, 
traversing  a pretty  wooded  country,  becoming  hillier  as  we  proceed. 
43  M.  Norwalk  (p.  76);  49  M.  Wilton;  64  M.  Branchville  (340  ft.), 
the  junction  of  a short  line  to  Bidgefidd  (800  ft.),  the  birthplace  of 
‘Peter  Parley’  (S.  G.  Goodrich;  1793-1860);  69  M.  Redding,  the 
birthplace  of  Joel  Barlow  (1764-1812),  author  of  the  ‘Columbiad’. 
— 62  M.  Bethel,  a prosperous  little  place  with  2660  inhabitants. 

Litchfield  Bkanch  Railroad  runs  from  Bethel  to  (38  M.)  Litchfield 
(1200  it.;  Hawk- Hurst,  $ 3-4;  U.  S.  Hotel,  $ 2Y2-3),  a summer-resort  in  a 
pretty,  hilly  district,  near  Bantam  Lake  (hotel,  $2-21/2).  Pop.  (19C0)  3000. 
It  was  the  birthplace  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher  (1813-87)  and  Mrs.  Beecher 
/S'^owe  (1812-96). 

65  M.  Danbury  (Walmac,  Fairfield,  $2-21/2;  Wooster  Inn,  $2), 
a town  of  19,474  inhab.,  with  large  hat-factories,  is  the  junction  of 


CANAAN. 


174  Poute  IS. 

tlie  New  England  R.  R.  (p.  80).  — At  (71  M.)  Brookfield  Junction 
(340  ft.)  we  pass  on  to  the  Berkshire  Division  of  the  railway  and 
are  joined  by  the  line  from  New  Haven  and  Bridgeport.  The  hills 
now  ‘begin  to  show  mountainous  symptoms’.  At  (73  M.)  Brookfield 
the  Bousatonic,  the  beautiful  valley  of  which  we  henceforth  follow, 
comes  into  view  on  the  right.  To  the  left  is  the  Still  River.  We 
cross  the  Housatonic  as  we  near  (81  M.)  New  Milford  (New  Eng- 
land Ho.,  Wayside  Inn,  $2-21/2)?  thereafter  have  it  to  the  left. 
Above  (94  M.)  Kent  (Kent  Inn,  $2),  a prettily  situated  village,  the 
valley  contracts.  103  M.  Cornwall  Bridge.  To  the  left  rises  the 
Sharon  Ridge  (1500  ft.).  - 1131/2  M.  Falls  Village  (550  ft.;  Falls 
Village  Inn,  $ 2-3),  near  the  *Falls  of  the  Housatonic  (130  ft.).  A 
coach  runs  hence  to  Salisbury.  To  the  left  (2>/2  M.)  rises  Mt.  Pro- 
spect (1475  ft.),  a good  point  of  view.  — 119  M.  Canaan  (670  ft.; 
Warner  Ho.,  $2)  is  a good  centre  for  excursions. 

Canaan  Mt.  (1500  ft.),  1 M.  to  tlie  S.E  , affords  a view  of  the  Housa- 
tonic Valley,  the  Twin  Lakes,  and  the  Berkshire  Hills  (R.  19).  The  Twin 
Lakes  (see  below)  lie  1^2  M.  to  the  W.  Excursions  may  also  be  made  to 
Cam-pbelVs  Falls  (71/2  M.),  Sage's  Ravine  (7M.;  p.  175),  etc. 

Canaan  is  also  a station  on  the  Central  New  England  R.  R.,  which 
runs  hence  to  the  S.E.  to  Norfolk  and  Winsted  and  to  the  S.W.  to  Twin 
Lakes.  Lakeville.,  and  Slate  Line  (p.  172),  all  pleasant  resorts. 

We  now  pass  from  Connecticut  into  Massachusetts  and  enter  the 
district  of  the  Berkshire  Hills  proper  (R.  19). 

The  Taghkanic  or  Taconic  Mts.  rise  to  the  left,  and  the  Hoosac 
Range  to  the  right.  Beyond  (122  M.)  Ashley  Falls  we  cross  the 
Housatonic.  126  M.  Sheffield  (p.  175);  129  V2  M.  Great  Barrington 
(p.  175).  — 134  M.  Van  Deusenville  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  West 
Stockhridge^  State  Line.,  and  Albany  (p.  196).  Monument  Mt.  (p.  177) 
rises  to  the  right.  — 136  M.  Housatonic ; 139  M.  Glendale.  We  cross 
the  river  once  more  and  bend  to  the  right  (E.).  140^2  M.  Stock- 

bridge  (p.  176).  In  the  next  few  miles  we  cross  the  Housatonic 
several  times.  142  M.  South  Lee;  146  M.  Lee  (p.  178);  148^2  M. 
Lenox  Dale.  At  (1501/2  M.)  Lenox  Station  omnibuses  from  the 
hotels  at  (2V2  M.)  Lenox  (p,  178)  meet  the  trains,  and  there  is 
also  a tramway.  153  M.  New  Lenox.  We  cross  the  river  for  the  last 
time  in  entering  — 

157  M.  Pittsfield  (p.  179;  Rail.  Restaurant). 


19.  The  Berkshire  Hills. 

The  district  known  as  the  -Berkshire  Hills,  corresponding  practically 
to  Berkshire  County  (pop:  95,667  in  1900)  in  the  W.  part  of  Massachusetts,  is 
50  M.  long  from  N.  to  S.  and  20-25  M.  wide  from  E.  to  W.,  covering  an 
area  of  about  1300  sq.  M.  On  the  W.  it  is  bounded  by  the  Taconic  3Its. 
and  the  State  of  New  York;  on  the  E.  by  the  Hoosac  Mts.,  a S.  prolong- 
ation of  the  Green  Mts. ; on  the  S.  by  Connecticut;  and  on  the  N.  by  Ver- 
mont. The  region  confined  between  the  two  mountain-ranges  is  broken 
up  into  a number  of  smaller  valleys,  interspersed  with  isolated  hills ; and 
for  the  gentle  loveliness  of  a hill-country,  as  contrasted  with  a mountain 
puntry,  it  is  unsurpassed  in  the  United  States  and  has  few  rivals 


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great  BARRINGTON.  19.  Route  175 

tie  Hudson, 

innumerable  small  lakes  and  brookradd  Island  Sound,  while 

the  Berkshire  Hills  have  been  reneatedlv  of 

tier,  Hawthorne,  Beecher  and  otborc  ^ Longfellow,  Bryant,  Whit- 

is  well  known  inTeologV  as  the  Taconic  Mts. 

are  regarded  as  a distinct’ system  . , o®®^j^^^^ous  Taconic  formations 
rocks  and  the  Potsdam  sandstone  ^^pf^odiate  between  the  Archsean 
the  Berkshires  is  in  autumn  nofhQ'K  'ii*  P^^Laps  the  best  Season  to  visit 
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sojourn  at  Newport  should  be  fol’lowed^Le  ret^^i^^^^t^  seaside 

Visit  to  the  Berkshirp  TTiiTo  ^^0  returning  to  town  by  a ‘fall’ 

November  Leno^  fp  178)  3 

(P.  176),  one  of  theTovSfisrvXrln'lmen^a  mMrM.e 

pod  centre  for  casual  travellers:  while  equally 

(see  below),  and  other  nlaces  alsn  fnvm  Great  Barrzngton 

usually  good  aViot  eStait  TW  The  iTotets  are 

and  cycling.  C«m-flps  irf«  is  lower  thaf  at  well-adapted  for  driving 

The  bIeeshiee  Steeet  EAinrAv  7e^  “ the  White  Mts 

district  from  Great  Barrington  (see  belowW^S  through  the 

Lenox  Station  (21  M ; p 178)  and  ^ CP- 176), 

Cheshire  (p.  180),  where  it  connects  ^P*  (39  M.j 

Hailwat,  running  to  (43  M ) Adams  fn  Valley  Street 

fo.Iowing-de:cription%nre‘;fa;i?ttfcS^ 

CP  (675  ft.;  Taghanick  Inn,  $2;  Elmhurst  - rail  stat 

S:  i‘ pTf a 

Dome,  one  of ^t^he ^highest ^Tthe*^rico»ic^^^^  view),  sometimes  called  the 
frequently  ascen^d  hence  (roa^^^^  fi®?  ^ ‘^e  W.  and  is 

Dhe/jfteld  Elm,  mentioned  in  the  ‘Autocrat^of^th?  Ike  top  1/2  hr.).  — The 
to  the  S.  of  the  centre  of  the  villaJ^  Breakfast  Table’,  is  1 M. 

Den,  1 M.  to  the  W • nT  P^^^sant  points  are  Beards 

the  S. ; and  Ashley  Alls  a M . I Im  ^ ^ 

W.,  are  also  visited  hence.  ’ ^ Bashhzsh  Falls,  71/2  M.  to  the 

eithir  W S^twaTfV^'f io  theN.,  along  the ^ousaionic, 

The^B^^^-  (^20  ft.7  *BeXZ7lm,  *"  JWn  St  $ 2 V 3 

l':uirsZn\ 

surrounded  by  hills  the  sloims  of  situated  In  a hollow 

picturesq„ely%S\:tra7r^:;atr  ifooVS 

into  whicT7eXrn1o“he1  (right)  Vep^““tfT’  elms, 

massive  stone  wall  and  trees  fs  •KenoTt  t Opposite,  concealed  by  a 
Of  blue  limestone,  with  red-bed  roofs,^!rect7d  bi  th™lftt  Mr^nTw 


176  Route  19. 


STOCKBRIDGE. 


Berkshire 


ScftrlBS,  in  3'  Frcncli  Orotliic  style,  3.t  21  cost  of  $ 1,500,000  (300,000?.).  It 
is  most  elaborately  fitted  up  (no  admission).  A good  distant  view  of  it  is 
obtained  from  tbe  bill  on  tbe  opposite  side  of  tbe  river.  The  -'Grounds 
contain  a fine  fountain  (jet  80  ft.  high).  — Tbe  handsome  ^Congregational 
Church  and  the  Hopkins  Memorial  Manse  (cost  $ 100,000)  are  on  the  same 
side  of  the  street,  a little  to  the  N.  of  the  Post  Office.  The  former  con- 
tains a magnificent  organ  (3954  pipes,  60  speaking  stops)  and  an  ‘echo’ 
organ,  concealed  in  the  walls  and  operated  by  21/2  M.  of  electric  wire. 
The  parsonage  is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  United  States. 

William  Cullen  Bryant  (1794-1878),  the  poet,  was  for  several  years 
(1815-25)  town -clerk  of  Great  Barrington,  and  many  of  the  town  records 
are  in  his  handwriting.  His  house  (the  old  ‘General  Dwight  Place’)  stood 
on  the  site  occupied  by  the  Berkshire  Inn,  but  has  been  moved  farther 
back  and  is  now  an  annex  of  the  hotel.  Dr.  Samuel  Hopkins^  the  hero  of 
Mrs.  Stowe’s  ‘Minister’s  Wooing’,  lived  at  Great  Barrington  for  25  years. 

A few  hundred  yards  to  the  N.W.  of  the  station  is  the  pretty  little 
Mansfield  Pond.  The  Berkshire  Heights  1 M.  to  the  W.  of  the 

station,  command  a fine  ''•‘View.  About  1/2  M.  to  the  S.  is  Mt.  Peter,  a good 
point  of  view.  To  the  E.,  across  the  river,  rise  Mt.  Bryant  (1450  ft.)  and 
East  Mt.  (1740  ft.).  Belcher's  Cave  lies  at  the  N.  end  of  the  village. 

To  the  S.E.  (5  M.)  lies  Lake  Buel,  in  the  hill  on  the  W.  side  of 
which  s a chasm  known  as  the  Ice  Gulf,  where  ice  is  found  nearly  all 
summer.  — Long  Lake  lies  3 M.  to  the  H.W.  — ^'Monument  Mt.  (p,  177)  is 
4V2  M.  to  the  N. 

The  direct  road  from  Great  Barrington  to  (8  M.)  Stockhridge 
(railway,  see  p.  174)  runs  on  the  E.  side  of  the  Housatonic,  with 
Monument  Mt.  (p.  177)  to  the  left  and  BearMt.  (p.  178)  to  the  right. 

The  Electric  Tramway  from  Great  Barrington  to  Stockbridge 
(comp.  p.  175)  starts  hourly  at  the  Golf  Grounds,  to  the  S.  of  the  town, 
and  follows  a somewhat  circuitous  route  (IIV2  M.,  in  74  hr.^  fare  15  c.). 

Stockbridge  (830  ft.;  Red  Lion  Inn,  $3;  Heaton  Hall,  $4, 
same  management,  finely  situated;  boarding-houses),  one  of  the 
most  typical  and  charming  of  New  England  villages,  with  its  im- 
memorial elms  and  immaculate  neatness,  ‘sleeps  along  a level  plain 
just  under  the  rim  of  the  hills’.  Pop.  (1900)  2081. 

In  Main  St. , opposite  the  road  leading  to  (V2  M.)  the  railway 
station  (p.  174),  is  the  tasteful  Episcopal  Church,  adjoining  which 
is  a War  Monument.  Following  Main  St.  towards  the  left  (W.),  we 
pass  on  the  left,  the  Sedgwick  Mansion,  the  old  home  of  the  Sedgwick 
family,  built  by  Judge  Theodore  Sedgwick  (1746-1813).  To  the 
right,  nearly  opposite,  is  the  site  of  the  house  where  Jonathan 
Edwards  (1703-58)  wrote  his  famous  treatise  on  ‘The  Freedom  of 
the  Will’.  A sun-dial  indicates  the  location  of  his  former  study. 
Beyond  this  is  the  Casino,  with  tennis-courts,  etc.  Nearly  opposite 
(left)  is  the  Congregational  Church,  in  front  of  which  is  a Bell  Tower, 
erected  by  David  Dudley  Field  to  the  memory  of  the  Indian  Mission 
and  his  deceased  grandchildren.  Also  to  the  left  is  the  entrance  to 
the  Stockbridge  Golf  Links  (18  holes).  The  most  interesting  part  of 
the  Cemetery  (right)  is  the  enclosure  of  the  Sedgwick  family,  with 
the  grave  of  the  authoress  Catharine  M.  Sedgwick  (1789-1867).  The 
Edwards  Monument,  also  to  the  right  in  Main  St.,  was  erected  in 
1871  by  the  descendants  of  Jonathan  Edwards.  To  the  left  is  the 
beautiful  Dwight  Place,  beyond  which,  on  the  same  side,  is  the 


Hills, 


STOCKBRIDGE. 


19,  Boute.  177 


interesting  ^Old  Burial  Ground  of  the  Stcckhridge  Indians^  with  an 
appropriate  monument  (*View).  The  road  diverging  to  the  right  at 
the  Edwards  Monument  leads  to  a Parfe,  laid  out  and  presented  to 
the  town  by  Cyrus  W.  Field  (view). 

In  the  part  of  Main  Street  to  the  E.  of  the  Episcopal  church  is  the 
J ackson  Library  and  Reading  Room  (10,000  vols. ; open  to  strangers), 
containing  the  table  on  which  Jonathan  Edwards  wrote  his  ‘Freedom 
of  the  Will’.  A little  farther  on  is  the  Academy^  with  Laurel  Hill 
behind  it. 

To  Ice  Glen,  IV4  M.  From  the  railway -station  we  follow  the  track 
to  the  left  (E.)  to  (6  min.)  a stile  to  the  right,  where  we  cross  the  fence. 
The  path  to  the  glen  runs  to  the  right  (up  the  hill).  ’*=Ice  Glen,  a cleft  in 
Bear  Mt.  (see  p.  178),  is  a wild,  cold,  and  narrow  rocky  ravine,  in  the 
caverns  of  which  ice  may  be  found  in  midsummer  and  wdiich  forms  a 
startling  contrast  to  the  surrounding  scenery.  At  (15-20  min.)  the  upper 
end  of  the  glen  we  pass  through  a gate  into  a pasture,  across  which  we 
descend  by  a faint  path  to  (5  min.)  the  road  (gate  here  marked  ‘Path  to 
Ice  Glen’).  Following  the  road  to  the  right,  we  regain  the  station  in  V4  kr. 

"^Feom  Stockbeidge  to  Monument  Mt.  (there  and  back  9-10  M.,  or 
3-4  hrs.).  From  the  Red  Lion  we  descend  Main  St.  to  the  left.  It  bends  to 
the  left,  passes  the  Indian  Burial  Ground  (see  above),  and  C-^/3  M.)  crosses 
the  Housatonic.  We  then  turn  to  the  left  and  in  a few  hundred  paces 
cross  the  railway.  Avoiding  the  road  to  the  right  here,  we  continue  in 
a straight  direction  to  (^4  M.)  the  cross-roads,  where  we  keep  to  the 
left.  The  road  soon  dwindles  to  a lane  and  begins  to  ascend.  3/4  M. 
Smith's  Farm,  325  ft.  above  Stockbridge  (view).  Here  we  should  ask  the 
way  across  the  pasture,  which  ascends  to  the  left  to  (8  min.)  a gate  leading 
into  the  wood.  The  route  through  the  forest  is  by  an  old  and  winding 
cart-track,  now  seldom  used  for  driving.  In  20  min.  it  is  joined  by  another 
track  from  the  right.  A few  yards  beyond  this,  to  the  left,  is  a small 
patch  of  grass,  with  a slab  of  rock.  A steep  footpath  ascends  hence  over 
rocks  to  (5-10  min.)  the  chaotic,  rocky  top  of  Ifflonument  Mt.  (1710  ft.) 
which  commands  a magnificent  *View  of  the  Housatonic  Valley  and  the 
Berkshire  Hills.  The  rock-formations  (white  quartz)  are  very  fine,  espe- 
cially one  huge  detached  pinnacle  known  as  the ‘Pulpit’.  Ladies  or  others 
who  object  to  scrambling  should  now  return  to  the  cart-track  and  either 
retrace  their  steps  or  follow  it  to  the  left  to  (25  min.)  the  Great  Barrington 
road.  A little  time  is  saved,  however,  by  descending  the  indistinct  path 
on  the  other  side  of  the  summit,  which  merges  (1/4  hr.)  in  a grassy  wheel- 
track,  that  joins  (3  min.)  the  above-mentioned  cart-track  about  10  min. 
from  the  Great  Barrington  road.  Here  we  turn  to  the  left  for  (8^/4  M.) 
Stockbridge,  a dusty  highroad  walk  which  we  may  avoid  by  having  a 
carriage  to  meet  us.  Through  the  liberality  of  Butler,  Monument  Mt. 
was  presented  to  the  State  in  1900  as  a free  public  reservation  (memorial 
tablet  at  the  head  of  the  above-mentioned  ‘indistinct  path’). 

Feom  Stockbeidge  to  Lenox  via  Lake  Mahkeenac  and  Bald  Head 
8-9  M.  We  follow  the  road  leaving  Main  St.  at  the  Episcopal  church  and 
take  the  first  road  to  the  left.  The  road  ascends  Prospect  Bill  (*View  of 
Stockbridge),  passing  Heaton  Hall  (p.  176),  and  for  a mile  or  two  is  lined 
with  handsome  ‘places’.  To  the  right  is  Rattlesnake  Hill.  After  about  3 M. 
we  see  the  Stockbridge  Bowl  or  *Lake  Mahkeenac  (ca.  920  ft.)  below  us 
to  the  left.  At  the  (1  M.)  fork  near  the  N.  end  of  the  lake  we  follow  the 
left  branch  (‘to  Lenox  and  Pittsfield’).  At  (3/4  M.)  the  next  fork  we  again 
keep  to  the  left,  passing  (on  the  lake,  to  the  left)  the  scanty  remains  of 
the  house  in  which  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  lived  in  1849-51,  and  wrote  the 
House  of  the  Seven  Gables’  and  other  works,  m.  Opposite  the  pretty 
home  of  Mr.  Higginson,  we  take  the  central  of  three  roads  (driving  to 
this  point  advisable  in  hot  or  dusty  weather),  and  immediately  afterwards 
lollow  the  road  to  the  left  between  two'  private  roads.  A very  little 

Baedekee’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  10 


178  Route  19. 


LENOX. 


Berlcshire 


farther  on  we  ascend  to  the  right  by  a steep  lane.  In  20-30  min.  we  see 
the  bare  grassy  top  of  Bald  Head  or  Mt.  Prospect  (1583  ft.)  to  the  right, 
which  we  reach  by  crossing  the  fence  and  grass  to  (5  min.)  the  cairn. 
*View  to  N.  and  S.,  including  Lenox,  the  Stockbridge  Bowl,  and  Mon- 
ument Mt.  We  may  now  return  to  the  lane  and  follow  it  round  a wooded 
hill  and  down  to  (2V2  M.)  Lenox.  Or  we  may  descend  the  cart-track  in 
the  hollow  between  Bald  Head  and  the  wooded  summit  to  the  N.,  which 
leads  toward  Lenox  but  soon  dwindles  to  a trail  and  finally  disappears 
(this  route  not  advisable  for  ladies  or  elderly  people).  At  (10-15  min.) 
the  foot  of  the  hill  we  emerge  from  the  wood  on  a field,  where  we  climb 
the  fence  and  continue  in  the  general  direction  of  (I72  M.)  Lenox,  which 
is  seen  in  front.  There  are  so  many  private  roads  here,  that  it  is  im- 
possible to  give  precise  directions,  but  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  go  far 
wrong.  Lenox.,  see  below. 

From  Stockbridge  to  Lenox  Station  by  Electric  Tra.mway  (comp, 
p.  175),  972  M.,  in  35  min.  (starting  hourly;  fare  20  c.).  From  the  station 
a branch-line  runs  to  (2V2  M.)  the  village.  The  chief  intermediate  station 
is  (V2  M.)  East  Lee  (8(35  ft. ; Greenock  Inn^  from  $2V2;  Morgan  Ho..,  $2), 
a village  with  paper-mills  and  quarries  of  marble  (used  for  the  Capitol 
at  Washington,  etc.).  Pop.  (19U0)  3596.  A fine  drive  may  be  taken  through 
the  Hophrook  Valley  to  Fernside  (1160  ft. ; now  o vned  by  a club),  Tyringham^ 
and  Monterey  (12  M.).  — Lenox.,  see  below. 

Excursions  are  also  made  from  Stockbridge  to  Mohawk  Lake,  2^/4  M. 
to  the  W. ; Lake  Averic,  3 M.  to  the  N.W. ; Eldon's  Cave,  in  Tom  Ball  Mt., 
3V2  M.  to  the  W. ; over  the  old  Burgoyne  Road  {Bear  Mt.;  views);  Great 
Barrington  (8  M.);  West  Stockbridge  (5  M.),  etc. 

Lenox  (1270  ft. ; Aspinwall,  with  splendid  view ; Curtis  Hotel., 
$3-5,  open  all  tbe  year  round;  numerous  boarding-bouses),  beauti- 
fully situated  on  a ridge,  2^/2  M.  to  tbe  W.  of  tbe  railway-station 
(p.  174)  and  6 M.  to  tbe  N.  of  Stockbridge,  is  tbe  Newport  of  tbe 
Berksbires  and  makes  an  even  greater  impression  of  wealth  and 
luxury  than  tbe  real  Newport.  Pop.  (1900)  2942.  Tbe  main  street, 
shaded  with  elms,  contains  tbe  hotels,  a Cluh.,  and  a Public  Library 
(with  assembly  ball,  etc.),  while  tbe  slopes  and  crests  of  tbe  sur- 
rounding bills  are  covered  with  large  and  often  beautiful  country 
bouses.  Driving,  riding,  golf  (tournaments  in  autumn),  and  lawn 
tennis  (tournament  in  Oct.)  are  tbe  favourite  amusements ; horse 
races  are  held  in  tbe  Lee  Pleasure  Park,  and  tbe  annual  ‘Tub  Parade’ 
(of  carriages)  is  a regular  institution.  Fanny  Kemble  (1811-93)  and 
Henry  Ward  Beecher  (1813-87)  are  among  the  most  famous  of  for- 
mer Lenox  residents.  In  front  of  tbe  Curtis  Hotel  is  a statue  of 
General  John  Paterson  (1744-1808).  Comp.  ‘Lenox  and  tbe  Berk- 
shire Highlands’,  by  R.  De  Witt  Mallary  (1902;  illus. ; $ 1.75). 

The  best  way  to  see  Lenox  is  to  hire  a carriage,  with  an  intelligent 
driver,  and  spend  2-3  hrs.  in  driving  about  the  network  of  excellent  pri- 
vate roads  (open  to  light  vehicles  only)  of  which  the  place  consists.  The 
grounds  of  many  of  the  houses  are  open  to  the  carriages  of  visitors.  The 
William  Sloane  SiXidi  Lanier  Places  each  other  and  command  a superb 

*View.  Perhaps  the  finest  grounds  are  those  of  the  Rathbone  Place,  now 
owned  by  Mr.  John  Sloane.  The  Weslinghouse  Place  has  drives  and  walks 
of  powdered  marble.  The  Stokes  House  is  built  round  a tree.  The  Foster 
Mansion,  by  Thos.  Hastings  of  New  York,  is  a picturesque  Renaissance 
structure  of  white  marble  and  red  brick.  The  Perch,  the  home  of  Fanny 
Kemble  (see  above),  still  stands  opposite  the  Foster  Mansion. 

The  Drives  and  Walks  round  Lenox  are  very  attractive,  and  one 
can  scarcely  go  wrong  in  any  -direction.  Among  the  favourite  excursions 
are  those  to  the  top  of  Bald  Head  (21/2  M. ; see  above);  the  Stockbridge 


HilU.  PITTSFIELD.  19.  Route.  179 

Bowl  (2V2  M.;  p.  177)  &nA.  Stockbridge  (6  M.;  p.  176);  Laurel  Lake  (Laurel 
Lake  Inn,  $ 2)  and  the  Highlawn  Farm^  a famous  horse-breding  establish- 
ment, 23/4  M.  to  the  S.E.;  North  Lenox  Mt.  and  Yokun's  Seat  (2080  ft.: 
named  after  a chief  of  the  Lenox  Indians),  4-41/2  M.  to  the  N W : Pitts- 
field (6  M.  5 see  below)  5 the  settlement  of  the  Lelanon  Shakers  (see  below) 
and  Perry  Peak  (2060  ft. ; view),  9 M.  to  the  N.W. ; October  Mt.,  4 M.  to  the 
Richmond,  1 2 M.  to  the  W.,  is  celebrated  for  its  parallel  trains  of 
described  by  Sir  Chas.  Lyell.  Short  walks  mav  be  taken  to 
(3/4  M ) the  Ledge,  the  (1  M ) Pinnacle,  the  Lily  Pond  (I1/2  M.j,  the  Schermer- 
horn  Woods,  etc. 

Electric  Teamway  from  Lenox  Station  to  Pittsfield  (comp.  p.  175) 
71/2  M.  (in  25  min.),  starting  every  1/2  hr.  (fare  15  c.).  ’ 

Pittsfield  (1010  ft. ; * Maplewood,  North  St.,  $3-41/2;  * The 
Wendell,  from  $3;  American  Ho.,  open  all  the  year,  $2-3;  Bur- 
hank  Ho.,  commercial,  $2;  Beach  Grove,  from  $2;  Rail:  Restau- 
rant), the  chief  city  of  Berkshire  County,  with  (1900)  21,766  in- 
hab.,  is  finely  situated  on  a plateau  surrounded  by  hills.  It  was 
named  in  1761  in  honour  of  the  elder  Pitt. 

The  public  green  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  named  the  ‘Heart  ofBerk- 
gnre  , bears  the  original  statue  of  the  Massachusetts  Colour  Bearer,  by  Launt 
Thompson,  which  has  been  reproduced  at  Gettysburg  (p.  295).  Among  the 
buildings  round  the  green  are  two  Churches,  the  white  marble  Court  House, 
and  the  Berkshire  Athenaeum  (with  the  Berkshire  Historical  Society,  a public 
library  of  50,000  vols.,  a gallery  of  art,  and  a museum).  The  Bishop 
Iraimng  School  for  Nurses,  the  House  of  Mercy,  the  Old  Ladies''  Home,  and 
the  small  R.  G.  Cathedral  of  St.  Joseph  may  also  be  mentioned.  Pittsfield 
13  the  headquarters  of  the  Agassiz  Association  for  the  study  of  natural 
history,  which  has  many  local  ‘chapters'  in  different  parts  of  the  world 
(president,  H.  H.  Ballard).  Among  the  many  interesting  and  attractive 
private  residences  are  the  Appleton  or  Plunkett  House,  in  East  St.  where 
Long^llow  wrote  ‘The  Old  Clock  on  the  Stairs’  (clock  still  in  the  house) 
and  the  quaint  old  Kellogg  Place,  also  in  East  St.  The  Cemetery  contains 
hne  old  trees  and  a large  red  granite  obelisk.  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  lived 
at  a small  villa,  2 M.  to  the  S.,  on  the  road  to  Lenox,  and 
litisheld  claims  to  be  the  scene  of  ‘Elsie  Venner’.  Herman  Melville  lived 
at  Arrovvhead,  also  on  the  road  to  Lenox;  and  in  the  early  days  of  the 
19th  cent.  Elkanah  Watson,  the  friend  of  Washington  and  Lafayette,  occupied 
wiiat  IS  now  the  Country  Club,  surrounded  by  extensive  and  beautiful 
grounds.  Yh^  Rev.  Dr.  John  Todd  (1800-1874),  author  of  the  well-known 
Lectures  to  Children’,  was  long  pastor  of  the  Congregational  Church. 
Electric  cars  traverse  the  principal  streets. 

About  2 M.  to  the  W.  of  Pittsfield  lies  Lake  Onota,  on  the  E.  shore  of 
which  a public  park  has  been  laid  out.  The  excursion  may  be  continued  in 
direction,  by  the  ‘Interstate  Hoad’  across  the  Laconic  Mts.,  to 
Springs  (CoZww&m  Hall,  $3-4;  Berkshire  Inn,  Laconic  Irm, 
waters  of  which  are  useful  in  cutaneous  and  liver  complaints), 
e b aker  village  of  Lebanon  is  2 M.  to  the  S.  of  the  Springs  (interesting" 
bunday  services ; meal  at  inn  75c.,  advisable  to  telephone  from  Pittsfield).  — 
pontoosuc  (boating),  reached  by  electric  car,  lies  21/4  M.  to  the  N.  of 
Pittsfield,  on  the  road  to  (20  M.)  Williamstown  (p.  180).  Lanesboro,  2V2  M. 
tother  on,  was  the  birthplace  of ‘Josh  Billings’  (H.  W.  Shaw;  1818-85)  — 
Taconic  Mts.,  to  the  N.W.  of  Lake  Onota,  are  the 
Lulu  Cascade  (4  M.)  and  Berry  Pond  (5  M ).  — Among  the  ‘Opes’,  or  view- 
conamanding  vales,  in  this  neighbourhood,  is  the  ^Ope  of  Promise',  affording 
a view  of  the  Promised  Land'.  — The  Balance  Rock  is  2 M.  to  the  N.  of 
o ^ Pontoosuc  Lake.  — South  Mt.  (1360  ft  ) 

2 M.  to  the  S.,  commands  a view  of  Pittsfield,  Lake  Onota,  Greylock,  etc.  - 
points  for  excursions  are  Potter  Mt.  (2400  ft.),  8 M.  to  the 
‘^18  ^“’‘conah  Falls,  8 M.  to 
the  N.E.;  Lake  AshUy  (1920  ft.),  6 M.  to  the  S.E. ; Perry  Peak  (see  above; 

12* 


180  Route  19. 


WILLIAMSTOWN. 


8 M.)  etc.  — A little  to  the  K.E.  of  thie  city  Is  the  fine  Allen  Stock  Farm 
(trotting -horses),  near  which  is  the  old  house  of  Judge  Ben.  R.  Curtis 
(1809-74).  Greylock  (see  below)  may  be  ascended  by  t iking  the  electric  tram- 
way (see  above)  past  Pontoosuc  Lake  and  Lanesboro  (p.  179)  to  (7  M.  farther) 
New  Ashford  and  then  diverging  to  the  right  by  a mountain-road  passing 
round  the  back  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  (2040  ft.  ^ comp.  Map). 

An  account  of  many  of  the  other  excursions  from  Pittsfield  is  given 
in  a pamphlet  distributed  gratis  by  the  ‘Berkshire  Life  Insurance  Co.’, 
Pittsfield.  Most  of  the  roads  are  well  provided  with  finger-posts. 

The  N.  part  of  Berkshire  County  is  much  less  known  than  the 
S.,  and  there  is  no  important  centre  for  visitors  between  Pittsfield 
and  North  Adams  and  Williamstown,  20  M.  to  the  N. 

The  Electric  Tramway  from  Pittsfield  to  North  Adams  (21  M.,  in 
11/2  hr. ; f ire  30  c.)  runs  via  Lanesboro  (p.  179),  Cheshire  (p.  172),  Cheshire 
Harbor  (p.  172),  and  Adams  (p.  172). 

North  Adams  (700  ft. ; New  Richmond 2- Wellington.,  $ 2Y2-3 ; 
Darrow^  $ 2),  a manufacturing  city  in  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Hoosac., 
with  (1900)  24,200  inhah.,  is  a station  on  the  Fitchburg  Railroad 
(see  p.  173)  and  the  terminus  of  a branch  of  the  Boston  & Albany 
R.R.  (see  p.  172).  It  is  also  connected  with  (6  M.)  Williamstown 
(see  below)  by  electric  tramway  (fare  20  c.). 

About  1 M.  to  the  N.E.  of  North  Adams  is  the  Natural  Bridge^  a 
narrow  rocky  archway  spanning  the  Hudson  Brook  at  a height  of  50-60  ft. 
— The  W.  end  of  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  (p.  173)  is  2 M.  to  the  S.E.  of  N. 
Adams , and  a favourite  excursion  is  over  the  Hoosac  Mt.  (2270  ft.)  to  (9  M.) 
the  E.  end  of  the  tunnel  and  Hoosac  Tunnel  Station  (Rice’s  Hotel,  $2). 

Ascent  of  Greylock  (8  M.^  road),  the  highest  mountain  in  Massachusetts, 
now  kept  as  a State  Reservation.  We  follow  the  Williamstown  road 
(to  the  W.)  for  a short  distance  and  then  turn  to  the  left  into  the  road 
through  the  AofcA  (views),  passing  (IV2  M.)  the  Notch  Brook  Cascade.,  30  ft. 
high.  About  3 M.  from  N.  Adams  the  new  road,  constructed  by  the  Grey- 
lock  Park  Association.^  diverges  to  the  right  and  leads  through  wood  to 
(5  M.)  the  summit  (easy  gradient).  About  halfway  up  we  have  a view 
into  tbe  Hopper  (1000  ft.  deep).  At  the  top  are  a view-tower  (40  ft.  high) 
and  a small  inn.  The  *View  from  Greylock  (3505  ft.)  includes  Adams, 
N.  Adams,  Pittsfield,  the  valleys  of  the  Hoosac  and  Housatonic,  and  most 
of  the  Berkshire  Hills.  Farther  off  are  the  Catskills  to  the  S.W.,  the 
Green  Mts.  to  the  N.,  Mts.  Monadnock  and  Wachusett  to  the  E.,  and  Mts. 
Tom  and  Holyoke  to  the  S.E.  — Greylock  may  also  be  ascended  by  a some 
what  trying  trail  through  the  Hopper  (see  above).  The  descent  may  be 
made  on  the  S.E.  side  to  Cheshire  Harbor  (p.  172)  or  to  the  S.W.  by  a 
new  road  leading  to  Lanesboro  (p.  179)  and  (15  M.)  Pittsfield  (p.  179). 

Williamstown  (595  ft.*,  Taconicj  from  $4;  * Greylock^  $3-4; 
Idlewild^  at  S.  Williamstown,  5 M.  from  the  rail,  station,  $2Y2j 
Cosmo  Ho.,  $2),  5 M.  to  the  W.  of  N.  Adams  and  1 M.  to  the  S. 
of  the  rail,  station  (p.  173;  omn.  25  c. ; electric  tramway),  lies  on  the 
Green  River,  an  affluent  of  the  Hoosic.  Pop.  (1900)  5013.  It  is  the 
seat  of  Williams  College  (350-400  students),  the  buildings  of  which 
are  the  chief  feature  of  the  village.  Among  the  most  modern  are  the 
Mark  Hopkins  Memorial  Hall  and  the  Thompson  Memorial  Chapel 
(1904;  one  of  the  handsomest  college  - chapels  in  the  country; 
memorial  window  to  President  Garfield,  a graduate  of  the  college). 
The  President's  House  and  two  of  the  Fraternity  Houses  (Delta  Kappa 
Epsilon  and  Alpha  Delta  Phi)  are  good  specimens  of  Colonial  archi- 


HOLYOKE. 


20.  Route.  181 


tecture.  The  old  Van  Rensselaer  Mansion  of  Albany  (comp.  p.  197) 
has  been  re-erected  here  as  the  chapter-house  of  the  Sigma  Phi 
Fraternity.  The  streets  are  prettily  laid  out,  without  fences,  and 
are  shaded  by  fine  trees. 

In  Flora's  Glen.,  1 M,  to  the  W.,  Bryant  is  often,  but  erroneously,  said 
to  have  composed  his  ‘Thanatopsis’,  at  the  age  of  eighteen.  — The  *Hop- 
per  (p.  180),  a huge  gorge  enclosed  by  two  spurs  of  Mt.  Greylock,  is 
5 M.  to  the  S.  (best  seen  from  JStony  Ledge.,  to  the  W.  of  the  path  mentioned 
at  p.  180).  — The  top  of  Greylock  is  10  M.  distant  by  the  new  road  (p.  180).  — 
The  Taconic  Range  rises  about  3 M.  from  Williamstown,  and  good  views 
are  afforded  by  Mt.  Belcher^  Mt.  Hopkins  {Berlin  Mt.;  2804  ft.),  and  other 
summits.  The  chief  passes  over  this  range  are  the  Petersburg  Pass  (2075  ft.), 
the  Berlin  Pass  (2190  ft.),  the  Kidder  Pass  (bridle-path),  and  the  Johnson 
Pass.  — The  Snow  Glen  is  7 M.  to  the  N.W.,  2 M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Peters- 
burg Pass.  — Among  the  favourite  drives  are  the  '‘Short  Oblong"'  (2  BI.) 
and  the  '‘Long  Oblong"'  (10  M.).  Longer  drives  may  be  taken  to  Pittsfield 
(20  M.),  Lebanon  Springs  (20  M.),  Hoosick  Falls  (17  M.),  etc.  — A new  electric 
tramway  runs  from  Williamstown  to  (15  M.)  B<nnington  (p.  186). 


20.  From  New  York  to  Montreal. 

a.  Yik  Connecticut  Valley. 

450  M.  New  York,  New  Haven,  & Hartford  Railroad  to  (136  BI.) 
Springfield  in  3V2-4V2  hrs.*,  Connecticut  <fe  Passumpsic  Division  of  the 
Boston  & BIaine  R.  R.  thence  to  (50  BI.)  South  Vernon  in  1V4-2  hrs.  5 Cen- 
tral Vermont  R.  R.  thence  to  (10BI.)Rr«fife&oroin  1/3  Connecticut  River 
Division  of  the  B.&BI.  R.R.  thence  to  (64 BI.)  in  lYibr.; 

Central  Vermont  R.  R.  thence  to  (163  BI.)  St.  Johns  in  5-6  hrs. ; Grand 
Trunk  Railway  thence  to  (27  BI.)  Montreal  in  3/4-1  hr.  (through-fare  $ 10.65; 
sleeper  from  Springfield  $2;  express  from  New  York  to  Blontreal  in 
I3V4-I5V2  hrs.).  — Trains  run  to  Quebec  by  this  route  (diverging  at  White 
River  Junction)  in  21-22  hrs.  (fare  $ 12).  Through-trains  run  to  Fabyans 
in  the  White  Bits.  (R.  16)  in  IOV2  hrs.  (fare  ^7;  parlor-car  $2). 

From  New  York  to  (136  M.)  Springfieldy  see  R.  4a.  We  berej  oin 
the  Connecticut  # Passumpsic  Division  of  the  B.  ^ M.  R.  R.^  which  as- 
cends the  beautiful  *Valley  of  the  Connecticut,  chiefly  on  theW.  bank 
of  the  river  (views  mainly  to  the  right).  140  M.  Chicopee  (Columbian, 
$2;  Kendall,  $ lV2)j  industrial  town  of  (1900)  19,167  inhab.; 
with  cotton-mills , a bronze-foundry , etc.  Chicopee  Falls.,  2 M.  to 
the  E.,  also  with  cotton-mills,  was  the  home  of  Edward  Bellamy 
(d.  1898),  author  of  ‘Looking  Backward’  and  ‘Equality’.  Tobacco  is 
grown  in  this  part  of  the  valley.  — The  train  crosses  the  Chicopee 
River  on  leaving  Chicopee,  and  the  Connecticut  on  entering  (144  M.) 
Holyoke  (95  ft.;  Hamilton,  $2Y2”3;  Murray,  $2-2Y2)?  an  industrial 
city  with  (1900)  45,712  inhab.,  possessing  the  greatest  water- 
power in  New  England  and  said  to  be  the  chief  paper-making  place 
in  the  world  (800  tons  daily;  value  of  manufactures  in  1900, 
$ 26,000,000).  The  river  has  a fall  of  60  ft.  and  is  bridled  by  a huge 
dam,  1000  ft.  across.  Canoeing  is  a favourite  pastime  here.  From 
Holyoke  a mountain-railway  ascends  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Tom  (1215  ft.; 
*View ; see  also  below),  which  is  now  a State  Reservation.  — Beyond 
(149  M.)  SmWs  Ferry  we  pass  between  Mt.  Holyoke  (p.  182)  on 
the  right  and  Mt.  Tom  (see  above)  on  the  left.  From  (151  M.)  Mt, 


182  Route  20. 


BRATTLEBORO. 


From  New  York 


Tom  a branch-line  runs  to  (4  M.)  Easthampton^  a manufacturing 
town  and  the  seat  of  Williston  Seminary,  a leading  school  in  prepar- 
ing boys  for  college.  — We  now  pass  the  famous  ‘Ox  Bow’  of  the 
Connecticut,  which  lies  to  the  left  and  is  no  longer  the  main  channel 
of  the  river. 

153  M.  Northampton (125 ft.;  Plymouth  Inn;  Norwood,  $2Y2’3V2; 
Hampton  House,  Mansion  Ho.,  ‘the  frontispiece  of  the  book 

of  beauty  which  Nature  opens  wide  in  the  valley  of  the  Connecticut’, 
is  a lovely  elm-shaded  city  of  (1900)  18,643  inhab.,  on  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Connecticut.  It  is  widely  known  as  an  educational  centre. 

The  chief  of  its  educational  institutions  is  Smith  College,  one  of  the 
leading  colleges  for  women  (1000  students).  It  possesses  an  art-gallery,  a 
handsome  library  building,  a music-hall,  a gymnasium,  a club  for  the 
students,  etc.  Other  large  buildings  are  Memorial  Hall  (with  the  Public 
Library),  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum  (1  M/  to  the  S.W.),  the  High  School  (1815), 
and  the  Clarke  Institution  for  Mutes.  The  last  stands  on  Round  Hill,  which 
commands  a good  view  of  the  town. 

The  chief  of  the  numerous  delightful  excursions  from  Northampton 
is  that  to  the  top  of  *Ht.  Holyoke  (955  ft.-,  Prospect  Ho..,  at  the  top,  $2V2-3), 
2 M.  to  the  S.E.  A carriage-road  leads  to  a small  mountain-rsilway  which 
surmounts  the  last  600  ft,  (return-fare  $ 1 toll  for  walkers  50  c.).  The  exqui- 
site "View  from  the  summit  includes  the  Connecticut  Valley,  the  Hoosac 
Mts.  and  Greylock  (W.  and  N.W.),  Mt.  Tom  (S.W.),  Springfield  and  the 
E.  and  W.  Rocks  at  New  Haven  (S.;  on  an  exceptionally  clear  day),  Mt. 
Wachusett  (E,),  Amherst  (p.  83)  and  Monadnock  (N.E.),  and  the  Green  Mts. 
(N.).  — Mt.  Nonotuck  (850  ft.),  the  N.  peak  of  Mt.  Tom  (p.  181),  is  easily 
reached  via  Mt.  Tom  station  (see  above-,  ’"View).  — {Elmwood  Ho., 

$ 2),  a beautiful  New  England  village,  2V2  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  Northampton, 
is  celebrated  for  its  magnificent  "Avenue  of  elms  (275  ft.  wide).  The  regicide 
Whalley  lived  in  concealment  at  Hadley  for  15  years  (1664-79).  At  South 
Hadley,  6 M.  to  the  S.,  and  connected  with  Holyoke  by  electric  tramway, 
is  the  Mt.  Holyoke  College  for  Girls  (400  pupils).  — Amherst  (p.  83)  is  7 M. 
to  the  N.E.  of  Northampton.  Both  Hadley  and  Amherst  are  connected  with 
Northampton  by  the  Mass.  Central  R.  R.  (B.  & M.  system). 

Beyond  Northampton  the  train  passes  near  the  Great  Bend  of 
the  Connecticut  and  then  leaves  the  river.  Hadley  (see  above)  is  seen 
to  the  right.  157  M.  Hatfield  (150  ft.).  From  (164  M.)  South  Deer- 
field (205  ft.)  we  may  ascend  Sugar  Loaf  Mt.  (710  ft.),  which  rises 
to  the  right.  Mt.  Toly  (p.  172)  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
A little  farther  on , to  the  right,  is  a monument  marking  the  battle- 
field of  Bloody  Brook,  where  Capt.  Lathrop  and  80  young  men,  ‘the 
flower  of  Essex  Co.’,  were  killed  by  Indians  in  1675.  169  M.  Deer- 
field (220  ft.),  a pretty  village  at  the  foot  of  Deerfield  Mt.  (700  ft.), 
with  (1900)  1969  inhabitants.  The  building  of  the  Pccumtuck  Val- 
ley Memorial  Association  contains  a collection  of  relics.  — We  cross 
the  Deerfield  and  at  (172  M.)  Greenfield  (see  p.  172)  intersect  the 
Fitchburg  line.  Beyond  (179  M.)  Bernardston  the  Connecticut  again 
comes  into  sight  on  the  right,  and  this  part  of  the  valley  is  very 
picturesque.  Tobacco  and  maize  are  cultivated.  186  M.  SouthVernon 
is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Nashua  (p.  151)  and  New  London  (p.  84). 

196  m.  Brattleboro  (^Brooks  Ho.,  $2^4-3 ; Brattleboro  Hotel,  $2), 
a large  village  with  (1900)  6640  inhab.,  charmingly  situated  on  the 
W.  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  is  the  centre  of  the  maple-sugar  in- 


to  Montreal. 


COHOES. 


20.  Route,  183 


dustry  of  Vermont.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  Wm.  M.  Hunt  (1824-79), 
the  painter,  and  Richard  M.  Hunt  (1828-95),  the  architect.  The  Public 
Library  contains  15,000  vols.  and  some  natural  history  collections. 
The  Estey  Organ  Works  here  turn  out  20,000  organs  yearly.  In 
the  Cemetery  (view)  is  an  elaborate  monument  to  the  notorious  Jim 
Fisk  (1835-72).  A road  ascends  to  the  top  of  Wantastiquet  Mt. 
(1364  ft.;  view),  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  Mr.  Rudyard  Kip- 
ling’s American  home  lay  3 M.  to  the  N.  of  Brattlehoro.  --  220  M. 
Bellows  Falls,  see  p.  148.  — We  now  cross  to  the  E.  hank  of  the 
river  and  leave  Vermont  for  New  Hampshire.  Beyond  (238  M.) 
Claremont  Junction  (line  to  Concord^  see  p.  152)  we  cross  the  deep 
gorge  of  the  Sugar  River  by  a bridge  105  ft.  high.  We  recross  the 
Connecticut  River  to  (246  M.)  Windsor  (Windsor  Ho.,  $2),  the 
station  for  *Mt.  Ascutney  (3320  ft.;  Rfmt.  Ho.,  at  the  top;  *View). 

260  M.  White  River  Junction  (Rail.  Restaurant),  see  p.  153. 

Trains  for  Quebec  and  for  Montreal  via  Sherbrooke  part  company  from 
our  route  here  and  continue  to  follow  the  Connecticut  Valley  to  Wells 
River  (p.  156).  The  second  station  on  this  route  is  (5  M.)  Norwich,  whence 
omnibuses  run  to  Hanover  (Hanover  Inn,  $2-3),  3/4  M.  to  the  S.E.,  the  seat 
of  Dartmouth  College  (920  students),  the  alma  mater  of  Daniel  Webster 
George  Ticknor,  G.  P.  Marsh  (the  philologist),  Rufus  Choate,  and  Chief- 
Justice  Cl^se.  Dartmouth  Hall^  a fine  old  Colonial  building,  was  burned 
dov/n  in  1904  but  at  once  rebuilt.  The  College  Park  is  pretty,  and  its  Art 
Gallery  contains  some  interesting  portraits. 

The  train  then  crosses  the  Ompompanoosuc,  passes  (36  M.)  Newbury  a 
pretty  village  in  the  Ox  Bow  ‘intervales’  of  the  Connecticut,  and  goes  on 
to  (40  M.)  Wells  River ^ where  it  joins  R.  15  c. 

For  a description  of  our  present  route  to  (190  M.)  Montreal  (the 
shortest  from  this  point),  see  p.  153. 

b.  Vm  Albany  (or  Troy),  Saratoga,  and  Lake  Champlain. 

384  M.  New  York  Central  & Hudson  River  Railroad  to  (143  M ) 
Albany  in  23/4-4  hrs. ; Delaware  & Hudson  Railroad  thence  to  (241  M ) 
Hditreal  in  81/4-83/4  hrs.  (through-express  in  IO3/4-I2V4  hrs.  j through-fare 
$ lU.bO,  parlor-car  $ 2,  sleeper  $ 2 ; best  views  to  the  left  as  far  as  Albany, 
then  to  the  right). 

This  is  the  shortest  and  most  direct  route  from  New  York  to  Montreal 
Lake  George,  and  Lake  Champlain.  Those  who  have  not  seen  the  Hudson 
should  go  by  Steamer  to  Albany  (see  p.  186);  and  they  may  also  leave 
the  train  for  the  steamer  on  Lakes  George  and  Champlain. 

From  New  York  to  (143  M.)  Albany,  see  R.  21.  Beyond  Albany 
we  follow  the  tracks  of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Dailroad,  which 
traverses  a very  interesting  district,  skirting  Lake  George  (p.  227), 
Lake  Champlain  (p.  230),  and  the  Adirondack  Mts.  (p.  209).  — The 
line  passes  the  Bural  Cemetery  and  reaches  (160  M.)  Watervliet, 
with  a large  United  States  Arsenal,  situated  on  the  Hudson,  opposite 
Troy(p.  186).  — 162  M.  Cohoes  {Harmony,  $2-2‘/2),  a prosperous 
manufacturing  city  with  (1900)  23,910  inhab.  and  the  huge  Harmony 
Cotton  Mills  (6660  looms,  2800  operatives),  is  situated  at  the  * Falls 
of  the  Mohawk  River  (76  ft.  high,  900  ft.  wide),  which  the  train 
®J0®ses  here  by  a long  bridge  (view  of  falls  to  the  left).  — At 
(154  M.)  Waterford  Junction  the  Albany  division  unites  with  the  main 


184  Route  20. 


GLENS  FALLS. 


From  New  York 


line  coming  from  (6  M.)  Troy.  — At  (159  M.)  Mechanicville,  where 
the  B.  & M.  Railroad  joins  ours  (see  p.  173),  we  turn  to  the  N.W. 
(left)  and  quit  the  Hudson.  165  M.  Round  Lake  (Wentworth,  $2-3 ; 
Lenox,  Orient,  $2),  with  a well-known  Methodist  camp -meeting 
ground  and  summer-schools  (lake  to  the  right).  — 175  M.  Ballston 
Npa  (Lincoln,  Eagle,  Medherry,  $2),  with  mineral  springs,  is  the 
junction  of  a line  to  Schenectady  (p.  232)  and  Binghamton  (p.  244). 

180  M.  Saratoga  (Rail.  Restaurant)^  see  p.|225.  j 

Beyond  Saratoga  the  train  runs  to  the  N.E.  and  crosses  the 
Hudson  at  (197  M.)  Fort  Edward  (St.  James,  Hudson,  $ 2),  where, 
however,  all  traces  of  the  fort,  built  in  1755,  have  disappeared. 
Passengers  for  the  Lake  George  steamer  diverge  here  (see  below). 

From  Fort  Edward  to  Caldwell,  14  M.,  railway  in  ^/i-±  hr.  The 
railway  ascends  the  Hudson,  which  here  makes  numerous  falls.  — 5 M. 
Glens  Falls  (300  ft.;  Rockwell  Ho..,  $21/2-3;  Hotel  Rulif,  $2),  an  industrial 
city  with  (1900)  12,613  inhab.,  where  the  Hudson  forms  a picturesque  ’^Fall 
of  50-60  ft.  The  island  below  the  fall  is  the  scene  of  some  well-known 
incidents  in  Cooper's  ‘Last  of  the  Mohicans’.  — Beyond  Glens  Falls  the 
train  passes  Glen  Lake  (r.),  reaches  a height  of  575  ft.,  and  then  descends 
rapidly  through  a wooded  defile,  affording  fine  views  of  lake  and  mountain. 
To  the  left,  2 M.  from  Caldwell,  is  the  Williams  Rock.,  a boulder  marking 
the  spot  where  Col.  Ephraim  Williams  (founder  of  Williams  College, 
p.  180)  was  killed  and  his  1200  men  were  defeated  by  the  French  and 
Indian  army  of  Dieskau,  which  was  in  turn  defeated,  also  with  the  loss 
of  its  commander,  by  Sir  Wm.  Johnson  (Sept.  8th,  1755).  Hard  by,  just  to 
the  left  of  the  railway,  is  the  Bloody  Pond.,  into  which  the  dead  bodies  were 
thrown.  — 14  M.  Caldwell  (400  ft.),  at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  see  p.  228. 

Beyond  Fort  Edward  our  train  leaves  tbe  Hudson  and  descends 
tbe  valley  of  Wood  Creek.  209  M.  Fort  Ann,  tbe  site  of  a fort  of 
1757  near  wbicb  Gen.  Putnam  was  defeated  and  captured  by  tbe 
French  and  Indians  in  1750.  — 219  M.  Whitehall  {Hall  Ho.,  $2), 
tbe  junction  of  a line  to  Rutland  (p.  149),  is  a lumbering  village  of 
(1900)  4377  inbab.,  situated  at  tbe  foot  of  Skene  Mt.  (525  ft.)  and 
at  tbe  S.  extremity  ot  Lake  Champlain  (p.  230). 

Tbe  train  crosses  tbe  South  Bay  and  follows  tbe  W.  bank  of 
Lake  Cbamplain,  wbicb  is  at  first  more  like  a river  than  a lake. 

— 241  M.  Fort  Ticonderoga  (see  p.  230),  at  tbe  foot  of  Mt.  Defiance 
(870  ft.),  is  tbe  junction  of  a line  to  (5  M.)  Baldwin,  on  Lake  George 
(see  p.  229),  and  tbe  starting-point  of  tbe  steamer  on  Lake  Cbam- 
plain to  Plattsburg,  etc.  (see  p.  230).  — Tbe  train  threads  a tunnel. 
243  M.  Addison  Junction,  for  a line  to  Leicester  and  Rutland 
(p.  149);  251  M.  Crown  Point  (p.  231);  259  M.  Port  Henry 
(p.  231).  Tbe  Adirondack  Mts.  now  rise  prominently  to  tbe  left. 
From  (270  M.)  Westport  (p.  214)  coaches  run  to  Elizabethtown, 
Keene  Valley,  and  Lake  Placid  (see  p.  215).  Tbe  train  passes  behind 
Split  Rock  Mt.  (1035  ft. ; right)  and  emerges  on  tbe  wider  part  of 
Lake  Champlain  (views).  Tbe  rocks  to  tbe  left  rise  precipitously. 

— 284  M.  Willsborough.  — 298  M.  Port  Kent  (p.  231),  tbe  junc- 
tion of  a line  to  (2  M.)  Ausable  Chasm  (p.  214)  and  (6  M.)  Keese- 
ville.  — 306  M.  Hotel  Champlain  and  Bluff  Point  (see  p.  231). 


to  Montreal, 


TROY. 


W.  Route.  185 


309  m.  Plattsburg  (100  ft.;  Fouquet  Ho.,  $21/2-^;  Witherill,  New 
Cumberland,  $2Y2“3V2;  *Ra,il.  Restaurant,  meals  75  c.),  a smalltown 
with  8434  inhab.,  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  W.  shore  of  Lake 
Champlain  (comp.  p.  232),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac  R iver.  It  is 
a convenient  starting-point  for  excursions  on  the  lake,  an  d it  is  the 
junction  of  branch-railways  to  Ausable  and  Saranac  Lake  (p.  213). 
It  is  9 hrs.  from  New  York  by  express-train.  The  TJ.  S,  Military 
Post  at  Plattsburg  consists  of  12  companies  and  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  important  in  the  country  (dress  parades,  guard-mounts, 
etc.).  About  2 M.  to  the  S.,  adjoining  the  grounds  of  the  Hotel 
Champlain  (p.  231),  is  Cliff  Haven,  the  headquarters  of  the  i^oman 
Catholic  Summer  School  of  America,  corresponding  in  organisation 
and  importance  to  the  Protestant  gathering  at  Chautauqua  (p.  345). 
The  attendance  is  very  large.  The  reading  circles  of  several  states 
have  small  hotels  or  club-houses  of  their  own. 

From  Plattsburg  to  Ausable  Forks,  23  M.,  railway  in  V4-IV2  hr.  (fare 
$ 1).  — The  line  runs  to  the  S.W.  through  the  valley  of  the  Little  Ausable. 
From  (23  M.)  Ausable  Forks  coaches  run  to  Wilmington  (p.  216;  $1)  and 
Lake  Placid  (p.  215 ; $ 2V2). 

Our  line  now  leaves  Lake  Champlain  and  traverses  a somewhat 
monotonous  district.  319  M.  West  CJiazy  (Adirondack  Inn,  $2)  is 
the  junction  of  an  alternative  route  to  Montreal.  — 334  M.  Rouses 
Point  (Windsor,  $2V2"3),  at  the  N.  end  of  Lake  Champlain,  is  the 
frontier-station.  We  then  descend  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Ri- 
chelieu to  (357  M.)  St.  Johns  (p.  151).  Hence  to  — 

384  M.  Montreal,  see  BaedekePs  Canada. 

c.  Nik  Troy,  Rutland,  and  Burlington. 

403  M.  New  York  Central  & Hudson  River  Railroad  to  (149  M.) 
Troy  in  4-5  hrs. ; Boston  & Maine  R.  R.  thence  to  (30  M.)  White  Creek  in 
IVs  hr.;  Rutland  R.  R.  thence  to  (122  M.)  Burlington  in  33/4-41/2  hrs.; 
Central  Vermont  R.  R.  thence  to  (102  M.)  Montreal  in  21^33/4  hrs.  (through- 
trains  in  121/2-13  hrs. ; fares  as  above).  — This  line  is  the  direct  route  from 
New  York  to  Burlington  (p.  149)  and  the  Green  Mts.  (p.  153). 

From  New  York  to  (142  M.)  Rensselaer,  see  R.  21b. 

149  m.  Troy  {Fifth  Avenue,  $272-3;  Mansion  Ho.,  $2-272; 
Windsor,  R.  from  $ 1),  a busy  industrial  city  of  (1900)  60,651  inhab., 
at  the  head  of  the  steam-navigation  of  the  Hudson.  Its  chief  products 
are  iron,  Bessemer  steel,  railway  rolling-stock,  cotton  and  woollen 
goods,  collars,  and  shirts.  The  Rensselaer  Polytechnic  Institute  is  a 
celebrated  engineering  school.  The  Music  Hall,  Post  Office,  and 
Court  House  are  among  the  most  prominent  buildings.  The  fine 
Public  Library  contains  a statue  of  Miss  Emma  Willard  (1787-1870), 
after  whom  the  large  Emma  Willard  Seminary  is  named.  The 
Soldiers'  ^ Sailors^  Monument  is  in  Washington  Square.  Troy  is 
famous  for  its  laundries. 

Troy  is  an  important  railway-centre,  lines  diverging  in  all  directions 
g<ew  York;^  Burlington  and  Montreal;  Boston  via  the  Hoosac  Tunnel,  etc.). 
The  main  line  of  the  Del.  <fe  Hudson  R.  R.  begins  here  and  unites  with  the 
Albany  division  at  Wafer/ord  Junction  (p.  183). 


186  Route  20, 


MANCHESTER. 


Our  train  turns  to  tlie  riglit  (N.E.)  and  runs  over  tlie  B.  M. 
R.  R.  to  (179  M.)  White  Creek.  We  then  run  towards  the  N.,  with 
the  Green  Mts.  at  some  distance  to  the  right.  181  M.  North  Ben- 
nington^ the  junction  for  (5  M.)  Bennington.  202  M.  Manchester 
(690  ft.;  Equinox  Ho,  $4),  a summer -resort  at  the  base  of  Mt. 
Equinox  (3816  ft.),  the  *View  from  which  includes  the  Catskills, 
the  Berkshire  Hills,  Lake  George,  and  Lake  Champlain. 

234  M.  Rutland  (Rail.  Restaurant),  and  thence  to  — 

403  M.  Montreal,  see  R.  15a. 

d.  Via  Utica  and  the  Adirondacks. 

470  M.  New  York  Central  & Hudson  River  Railroad  in  12V2-15  brs, 
(fares  ss  in  R.  20b).  This  route  crosses  the  Adirondacks  (comp.  p.  221), 
and  forms  the  most  convenient  approach  to  many  points  in  that  district. 

From  New  York  to  (238  M.)  Utica  ^ see  R.  28  a;  from  Utica  to 
(405  M.)  Malone^  see  R.  25d.  The  train  here  crosses  the  Rutland 
R.  R.  (from  Ogdensburg  to  Rouse’s  Point  and  Alhurgh ; comp.  p.  150) 
and  continues  to  run  towards  the  N.  Beyond  (413  M.)  Constable  we 
enter  Canada.  419  M.  Athelstan;  423  M.  Huntingdon.  At  (435  M.) 
Valleyfield  we  reach  the  St.  Lawrence,  along  the  S.  hank  of  which 
we  now  run  to  the  right.  448  M.  Beauharnois;  456  M.  Chateaugay, 
At  (461  M.)  Adirondack  Junction  we  connect  with  the  C.  P.  R. 

470  M.  Montreal,  see  Baedeker's  Canada. 


21.  From  New  York  to  Albany. 

Comp.  Map,  p.  76. 

a.  By  Steamer. 

150  M.  The  finely-equipped  steamers  of  the  Hudson  River  Line  (‘Al- 
bany Day  Line’)  leave  New  York  every  morning  (except  Sun.)  in  summer 
(ca.  May  28th  to  Oct.  15th)  from  Desbrosses  St.  Pier  at  8.40  a.m.  and  22nd  St. 
(N.  R.)  at  9 a.m.,  and  reach  Albany  about  6.10  p.m.,  calling  at  seven  inter- 
mediate points  (fare  $2,  return- fare  $81/2;  private  cabin  $5).  The  largest 
steamer  of  this  line  (the_g‘New  York’)  is  341  ft.  long  and  has  a speed  of 
22  M.  an  hour,  while  the  ‘Albany’  is  said  to  be  even  faster.  Passengers 
by  this  line  may  see  the  most  picturesque  part  of  the  Hudson  in  one  day, 
returning  from  West  Point,  Newburgh,  or  Poughkeepsie  by  the  sister  boat, 
which  reaches  New  York  at  5.30  p.m.  No  freight  is  carried  by  the  Day 
Line.  — The  People’s  Line  Steamers  leave  Pier  32  (foot  of  Canal  St.)  every 
week-day  at  6 p.m.,  reaching  Albany  at  6 a.m.  next  day  and  making  no 
intermediate  stops  (fare  $ 1V2,  return  $2^/2,  berth  50  c.).  — The  Citizen’s 
Line  Steamers  leave  Pier  46  daily,  except  Sat.,  at  6 p.m.  and  reach  Troy 
about  6 a.m.,  calling  at  Albany  on  Mon.  morning  only  (fare  $1V2,  return 
$21/2,  berth  50  c.).  — The  ‘Mary  Powell’  plies  every  afternoon  from  the 
foot  of  Desbrosses  St.  and  22nd  St.  to  (95  M.)  Rondout  and  Kingston  (5V2hrs.; 
fare  $ 1,  return-fare  $ D/2). 

Those  who  wish  to  see  the  beauties  of  the  Hudson  should,  of  course, 
select  the  ‘Day  Line’^  but  the  night-boats  afford  a comfortable  and  easy 
mode  of  travel.  An  excellent  way  of  seeing  the  Hudson  is  to  take  tbe 
‘Mary  Powell’  to  Newburgh  (p.  D9),  spend  a day  or  so  here,  and  go  on 
by  day-boat  to  Albany.  Good  restaurants  on  board  all  the  steamers  (meals 
also  a la  carte).  Through  railway- tickets  to  Albany  by  the  N.  Y. 
C.  R.  R.  or  the  West  Shore  R.  R.  are  available  on  the  Day  Line  steamer, 
and  vice  versa. 


PALISADES. 


27.  Route.  187 


The  Hudson  River  rises  in  the  Adirondack  Mts.,  4000  ft.  above  the 
sea  (comp.  p.  210),  and  flows  info  the  Atlantic  Ocean  at  New  York  after 
a nearly  due  S.  course  of  3COM.  Its  chief  tributary  is  the  Mohawk^ 
which  joins  it  on  the  W.,  a little  above  Troy.  The  mountains  of  the 
Hudson  are  part  of  the  Appalachian  system,  the  Highlands  (see  p.  189) 
being  a continuation  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  The  Hudson  has  sometimes  been 
called  the  ‘American  Rhine’,  but  this  title  perhaps  does  injustice  to  both 
rivers.  The  spacious  and  stately  characteristics  of  the  Hudson,  from  the 
Palisades  to  the  Catskills,  are  as  epical  as  the  loveliness  of  the  Rhine  is 
lyrical.  The  Hudson  implies  a continent  beyond.  For  vineyards  it  has 
forests.  For  a belt  of  water,  a majestic  stream.  For  graceful  and  grain- 
goldened  heights,  it  has  imposing  mountains.  There  is  no  littleness  about 
the  Hudson. ...  No  European  river  is  so  lordly  in  its  bearing,  none  flows 
in  such  state  to  the  sea.  Of  all  our  rivers  that  I know,  the  Hudson  with 
this  grandeur,  has  the  most  exquisite  episodes.  Its  morning  and  evening 
reaches  are  like  the  lakes  of  a dream’  (6^.  W.  Curtis).  The  E.  bank,  for  many 
miles  above  New  York,  is  sprinkled  with  handsome  country-houses.  The 
effect  of  the  tide  is  perceptible  as  far  as  Troy,  and  the  river  is  navigable  for 
large  steamers  for  150  M.  Sailing-vessels  and  yachts  are  abundant  in  the 
lower  part  of  its  course,  while  numerous  ‘tows’  of  coal-barges,  grain-barges 
and  lumber-rafts  are  also  encountered.  Beyond  the  influence  of  salt  water 
the  Hudson  freezes  solid  in  winter,  affording  an  ample  harvest  to  the  ice- 
cutter  and  a magnificent  field  for  the  exciting  sport  of  ice-boat  sailing.  Its 
name  is  derived  from  Henry  Hudson,  di  British  navigator  in  the  Dutch  service 
who  in  1609  ascended  the  river  in  the  ‘Half  Moon’  as  far  as  Albany,  in  search 
of  a water-passage  across  the  Continent.  According  to  Ruttenber  (‘Indian 
Tribes  of  the  Hudson  River’)  the  E.  bank  of  the  Hudson  and  part  of  the 
W.  bank  were  occupied  by  the  Mohicans,  while  the  W.  bank  below  the 
Catskills  belonged  to  the  Lenni  Lenapes  (Delawares)  and  above  Cohoes 
to  the  Mohawks  (Iroquois).  The  first  steamboat  that  plied  regularly  for 
passengers  was  the  ‘Clermont’  of  Robert  Fulton,  which  ran  between  New 
York  and  Albany  in  1807,  taking  36  hrs.  for  the  trip.  — 8ee  ‘The  Hudson 
River  from  Ocean  to  Source’,  by  E.  M.  Bacon  (1902^  illus.  ^ 34.50). 

In  the  following  description  the  terms  right  (R.,  r.)  and  left  (L.,  1.) 
are  used  with  reference  to  persons  ascending  the  river. 

As  the  steamer  starts  from  its  dock,  we  enjoy  a good  view  of 
New  York  Harbour  to  the  S.,  and  as  we  proceed  enjoy  an  admirable 
panorama  of  what  Mr.  Le  Gallienne  calls  ‘New  York,  with  its  turreted 
peninsula,  singing  like  a forest  of  stone  in  the  breath  of  the  Atlantic’. 
On  the  right  lies  Manhattan  Island,  with  the  city  of  New  York,  while 
to  the  left,  in  the  State  of  New  Jersey,  are  Jersey  City  (p.  67), 
Hoboken  (p.  67),  and  Weehawken  (p.  67).  Among  the  most  con- 
spicuous points  to  the  right  are  the  huge  office-buildings  in  Broad- 
way and  Park  Row(pp.  31-35),  the  dome  of  the  ‘World’ Office  (p.  35), 
the  Post  Office  (p.  34),  the  New  York  Life  Insurance  Building 
(p.  38),  the  Flat-iron  Building  (p.  40),  the  Dakota  Fiats  (p.  50), 
St.  Luke’s  Hospital  (^p.  62),  Riverside  Park  (p.  62),  the  Soldiers 
& Sailors  Monument  (p.63).  General  Grant’s  Tomb  (p.  63),  Columbia 
University  (p.  62),  and  the  Convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  (p.  63).  To 
the  left  are  Stevens  Castle  (p.  67),  the  Elysian  Fields  (p.  67),  Union 
Hill  Observatory,  St.  MichaeVs  Observatory,  the  West  Shore  Railroad 
Station  (p.  8),  the  Guttenberg  Brewery  (p.  67),  and  Pleasant  Valley. 
Near  the  end  of  Manhattan  Island,  10-11  M.  from  the  Battery,  we 
pass  between  Fort  Lee  (p.  67),  with  its  hotel,  on  the  left,  and  the 
site  of  Fort  Washington  (p.  64)  on  the  right.  At  Fort  Lee  begin 
the  *Palisades,  an  extraordinary  ridge  of  columnar  basaltic  rocks. 


NYACK. 


From  New  York 


188  Route  27. 


not  unlike  the  Giant’s  Causeway,  rising  almost  vertically  to  a height 
of  200-600  ft.  and  extending  along  the  W . hank  of  the  Hudson  for 
about  16  M The  width  of  the  mountains  of  which  they  form  the  E. 
escarpment  is  V2-IV2  M.,  and  the  W.  slope  is  quite  gentle.  The 
quarrying  and  blasting  operations,  which  threatened  to  mar  the 
beauty  of  the  Palisades,  have  been  stopped ; and  it  is  planned  to 
construct  a wide  TDOulevard  along  tlie  bank.  — To  the  right  (lo  M.j 
is  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  (p.  191).  x.  v v. 

16 V2  M.  (r.)  Mt  St.  Vincent  Convent,  the  buildings  of  which 
include  Fonthill,  formerly  the  home  of  Edwin  Forrest,  the  actor. 
It  is  the  American  headquarters  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity. 

17  M.  (r.)  Yonkers  (p.  191),  ^ith  the  old  Phillipse  Manor  House. 

21  M.  (r,)  Hastings  (p.  191).  Opposite  is  Indian  Head  (*View), 
the  highest  point  of  the  Palisades.  About  M.  farther  on  (1.)  is 
the  boundary  between  New  Jersey  and  New  York,  both  banks  hence- 
forth belonging  to  the  latter.  — 23  M.  (r.)  BohFs  Ferry  (p.  191). 

24  M.  (r.)  Irvington  (p.  192).  Sunnyside,  Irvings  house,  ^^4M. 
above,  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  the  steamer.  Opposite 
fl.)  lies  Piermont,  with  the  long  pier  of  the  Erie  Railroad.  About 
2 M to  the  S.W.  of  Piermont  is  the  old  village  of  Tappan,  where 
Andre  was  executed  (Oct.  2nd,  1780).  — The  Palisades  here  lose 
their  wall-like  character,  and  the  Hudson  expands  into  the  lake- 
like expanse  of  the  Tappan  Zee,  10  M.  long  and  3-4  M.  wide. 

25  M.  (r.)  Lyndehurst  (p.  192),  the  residence  of  the  late  Jay 
Gould  (d.  1892),  loftily  situated,  with  a tall  tower. 

27  M.  (r.)  Tarrytown  (p.  192),  whence  a steam -ferry  plies 
across  the  Tappan  Zee  to  (3  M.)  Nyack  {Tappan  Zee  JIo.,  $3-5; 
*8t.  George  Hotel,  with  restaurant,  near  the  landing,  $ i-o),  a brisk 
little  village,  the  terminus  of  the  Northern  Railroad  of  New  Jersey. 
The  Dutch  Church  in  Sleepy  Hollow  (p.  192),  about  3^4  M.  above 


Tarrytown,  is  hardly  distinguishable.  . . tt  i 

30-32  M.  (1.)  South  Hook  Mt.  (730  ft.)  and  North  Hook  Mt. 
(610  ft.).  Rockland  lies  just  beyond  the  latter. 

32  M.  (r.)  Ossining  (p.  192),  with  the  low  white-marble  prison 


at  the  water  s edge.  t y-,  t%  • * i'  4 oo'\ 

33  M.  (r.)  Estuary  of  Croton  River  and  Croton  Point  (p. 

Here,  off  Teller  s Point,  the  extremity  of  the  peninsula,  the  ‘Vulture 
anchored  when  she  brought  Andre  to  visit  Arnold  (p.  1^^)- 

The  steamer  now  enters  Haverstraw  Bay,  which  is  4 M.  wide. 
37  M.  (1.)  Haverstraw  (p.  192),  at  the  N.  base  of  High  Tor 
(820  ft.).  The  Highlands  (p.  189)  are  visible  in  the  distance. 

40  M.  (1.)  Stony  Point,  at  the  N.  end  of  Haverstraw  Bay,  now 
marked  by  a lighthouse,  was  the  site  of  a fort  taken  by  the  British 
on  June  1st,  1779,  and  re-captured  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet  by 
Gen.  Wayne  (‘Mad  Anthony’;  p.  287)  six  weeks  later.  It  has  been 
bought  by  the  ‘Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution’  for  preservation 
s a national  memorial.  The  river  here  is  only  V2^-  and  on 


to  Albany. 


STORM  KING. 


21.  Route.  189 


the  E.  bank  is  Verylanclzs  Pointy  the  site  of  Fort  Lafayette.  — 
41  M.  (1.)  Tompkins  Cove^  with  limestone  quarries.  — 43  M.  (1.) 
Kidd’s  Point  or  Caldwell’s  Landing;  r.  Peekskill. 

The  river  makes  an  abrupt  bend  to  the  left  here,  and  the  Dutch 
mariner  J an  Peek  is  said  to  have  followed  the  Peek’s  Kill  (r.)  under  the 
idea  that  it  was  the  Hudson , until  his  ship  ran  aground.  Above 
Caldwell’s  Landing  rises  the  Dunderberg  (865  ft.) , and  to  the  N. 
of  Peekskill  is  Manito  ML , with  the  camp  of  the  New  York  State 
National  Guard.  — We  here  pass  through  the  S.  gate  of  the  *High- 
lands,  the  beautiful  hill-girt  section  of  the  river  extending  from 
this  point  to  near  Newburgh  (see  below). 

46  M.  (r.)  Anthony’s  Nose  (900  ft.) , a lofty  summit , deriving 
its  name,  according  to  Diedrich  Knickerbocker’s  familiar  and 
humorous  account,  from  the  ‘refulgent  nose’  of  the  Dutch  trumpeter, 
Anthony  van  Oorlear.  Nearly  opposite  are  Iona  Island  (with  a large 
store  of  naval  ammunition),  Bear  Hill  (1350  ft.),  and  the  sites  of 
Forts  Clinton  and  Montgomery. 

50  M.  (r.)  Sugar-Loaf  ML  (765  ft.),  near  the  S.  base  of  which 
lay  the  Beverly  Robinson  House,  Arnold’s  headquarters,  where  he 
received  the  news  of  Andre’s  capture  and  whence  he  made  his  escape 
to  the  ‘Vulture’.  Opposite  are  the  Buttermilk  Falls,  100  ft.  high 
(insignificant  except  after  heavy  rain),  on  the  bluff  above  which  is 
Lady  Cliff,  a large  and  finely  situated  school  for  girls. 

52  M.  (1.)  West  Point  (p.  194),  the  site  of  the  well-known  Mil- 
itary Academy,  various  buildings  of  which  are  visible.  To  the  N. 
is  the  West  Point  Hotel  (p.  194),  and  above  the  ‘Post’  rises  Fort 
Putnam  (596  ft.).  Steam-ferry  to  Garrison  (p.  192). 

Passing  West  Point,  the  steamer  turns  sharply  to  the  left.  The 
Battle  Monument  (p.  194)  is  now  conspicuous.  To  the  right,  on  the 
point  known  as  Constitution  Island,  long  the  home  of  Miss  Warner 

(1818-85;  buried  in  West  Point  Cemetery),  author  of  the  ‘Wide, 
Wide  World’. 

541/2  M.  (1.)  Crow  Nest  (1405  ft.),  immortalized  in  J.  R.  Drake's 
‘Culprit  Fay’.  — r.  Cold  Spring  (p.  192),  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Taurus 
or  Bull  Hill  (1425  ft.). 

56  M.  (1.)  *Storm  King  or  Butter  Mt.  (1530  ft.) , with  Corn- 
wall (p.  195)  at  its  N.  base.  — r.  Breakneck  Mt.  (1635  ft.).  Between 
these  hills  is  the  North  Gate  of  the  Highlands,  issuing  from  which  we 
pass  the  little  Polopel’s  Island  (r.).  The  mountains  now  trend  to 
the  N.E. 

59  M.  (1.)  New  Windsor.  — r.  Dutchess  Junction  (p.  192). 

61  M.  (1.)  Newburgh  (see  p.  195).  Washington's  Headquarters 
(see  p.  195),  a one-storied  stone  building,  with  a timber  roof,  sur- 
rounded by  trees  and  distinguished  by  a flag-staff,  are  seen  just  below 
the  town.  On  the  opposite  bank  lies  Fishkill  (p.  192). 

67  M.  (1.)  DuyviVs  Dans  Kamer,  a low  flat  rock  on  a promontory. 

70  M.  (1.)  Marlborough,  with  fine  Arbor  Vitae  trees. 


CLERMONT. 


From  New  YorTc 


190  Route  21. 


76  M.  (r.)  Poughkeepsie  (see  p.  193).  The  boats  of  the  Day 
Line  meet  here , and  passengers  who  wish  to  return  to  Ne"^  York 
make  direct  connection.  Vassar  College  (p.  193)  is  not  visible.  — 

1.  New  Paltz  Landing  (comp.  p.  195). 

The  ^Poughkeepsie  Railway  Bridge , which  here  spans  the 
Hudson,  constructed  on  the  cantilever  principle , is  2260  yds.  long 
(II/4  M.)  and  200ft.  above  high-water. 

77  M.  (r.)  Hudson  River  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane.  Nu- 
merous handsome  residences  are  passed  on  the  right,  and  large  ice- 
houses on  the  left.  It  is  estimated  that  the  ice-industry  of  the  Hudson 
represents  a capital  of  $5,000,000  (1,000, 000^.)  and  gives  employ- 
ment in  winter  to  15,000  men.  Many  of  the  estates  on  both  banks 
are  still  in  the  hands  of  the  ‘Knickerbocker’  families  to  which  they 
were  originally  granted. 

82  M.  (r.)  Hyde  Park  (p.  193).  Just  above  is  the  residence  of 
F.  W.  Vanderbilt,  almost  opposite  which  (1.)  is  the  home  of  John 
Burroughs,  the  author. 

87  M.  (r.)  Dinsmore  Point , with  the  house  of  the  late  Wm.  B. 
Dinsmore,  long  president  of  the  Adams  Express  Co.,  which  began 
in  1840  \9ith  two  men,  a boy,  and  a wheel-barrow,  and  now  has  14,000 
men  and  3200  waggons  and  carries  parcels  over  36,000  M.  of  railway. 

91  M.  (1.)  Kingston  and  Rondout  (see  p.  195),  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  (p.  195).  Opposite  lies  Rhine- 
cliff  Landing  (p.  193;  ferry  13  c.). 

99  M.  (r.)  North  Hay  (above  Crugers  Island),  where  Fulton  built  the 
‘Clermont’  (p.  187),  with  the  aid  of  Chancellor  Livingston,  a member 
of  the  influential  New  York  family  of  that  name.  The  Livingston  Manor 
House  is  a large  house  in  the  Colonial  style,  on  a knoll  to  the  right. 

100  M.  (r.)  Tivoli,  whence  a ferry  runs  to  — 

102  M.  (1.)  Saugerties  (p.  196),  with  a lighthouse. 

The  Catskill  Mts.  (R.  24)  now  bound  the  view  on  the  left. 
Overlook  Mt.  (3150  ft.),  with  its  hotel,  rises  nearly  opposite  Tivoli, 
and  next  to  it  is  Plattekill  (3135  ft.),  above  Saugerties. 

103  M.  (r.)  Clermont,  the  original  seat  of  the  Livingston  family, 
descended  from  the  Earls  of  Linlithgow  (comp,  above);  it  is  a small 
house,  almost  hidden  by  the  foliage.  Nearly  opposite  is  Malden, 
above  which  rises  Kaaterskill  Mt.,  with  the  Kaaterskill  Hotel  and  the 
Catskill  Mt.  House  (p.  204). 

108  M.  (r.)  Germantown  Station.  Just  beyond  this  point  we 
have  the  best  view , to  the  left , of  the  supine  figure  of  the  ‘Man  in 
the  Mountain',  whose  knee,  breast,  and  face  (from  S.  to  N.)  are 
formed  by  different  peaks  of  the  Catskills.  Round  Top  (3470  ft.), 
one  of  the  highest  of  the  Catskills,  rises  to  the  N.  of  the  man  s head. 

115  M.  (1.)  Catskill  (p.  203),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kaaterskill 
Creek.  This  was  the  highest  point  reached  by  the  ‘Half-Moon’ 
(p.  187),  but  Hudson  sent  small  boats  up  as  far  as  Waterford 
(p.  183),  4 M.  above  Troy.  Numerous  large  Ice  Houses  to  the  left. 


to  Albany. 


YONKERS. 


21.  Route.  191 


120  M.  (r.)  Hudson  (p.  193).  Steam-ferry  to  Athens  (1.).  The 
scenery  is  now  less  attractive.  — 127  M.  (1.)  CoxsacMe  (ferry).  — 
125  M.  (r.)  Stuyvesant.  Numerous  flat  islands  are  passed.  — 136  M. 
(r.)  Schodack,  — 1.  Coeymans  (pron.  Queemans),  behind  which  rise 
the  Helderberg  Mts,  (p.  201).  — 141  M.  (r.)  Castleton.  Extensive 
dykes  have  been  made  from  this  point  onwards  to  improve  the  channel. 

148  M.  (r.)  Van  Rensselaer  Place  or  Fort  Cralo  (1642),  an  old 
brick  house,  with  a modern  Mansard  roof  and  a flag-staff,  was  the 
place  where  Richard  Schuckburg,  a surgeon  of  the  British  army,  wrote 
‘Yankee  Doodle’  in  1757.  It  is  now  preserved  as  a national  memorial. 

150  M.  (1.)  Albany  (see  p.  196),  with  the  Capitol  towering 
above  the  other  buildings,  is  connected  by  three  bridges  with  Rens- 
selaer (see  above). 

156  M.  (r.)  Troy,  see  p.  185. 


b.  Vi§.  Railway  on  the  East  Bank. 

143  M.  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River  Railroad  in  2V4-4  hrs. 
(fare  $3.10;  parlor-car  $1).  This  line  affords  good  views  of  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Hudson  (seen  to  the  left). 

New  York,  see  p.  7.  The  train  leaves  the  Grand  Central  Station, 
traverses  the  Park  Avenue  tunnel  (comp.  p.  48),  passes  125th  Street 
Station,  and  crosses  the  Harlem  River  by  a huge  four-track  swing- 
bridge  of  steel,  completed  in  1896.  Among  the  buildings  seen  to 
the  left  are  Grant’s  Tomb  (p.  63),  St.  Luke’s  Hospital  (p.  62), 
and  Columbia  University  (p.  62),  The  line  turns  to  the  W.  (left) 
beyond  (5  M.)  138th  Street,  and  skirts  the  Harlem  to  High  Bridge 
(p.  64)  and  Spuyten Duyvil,  onSpuyten  Duyvil  Cree&(p.27), 

so  named,  says  the  legend,  from  the  Dutch  trumpeter  Anthony  van 
Corlear , who  ‘swore  most  valorously  that  he  would  swim  across  it 
in  spite  of  the  Devil  (en  spuyt  den  duyvil)’,  but  ‘sank  for  ever  to 
the  bottom’  (see  W,  Irving's  ‘Knickerbocker  History  of  New  York’). 
The  creek  formed  the  S.  boundary  of  the  ‘Neutral  Ground’  in  the 
Revolutionary  War.  — Spuyten  Duyvil  lies  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
Hudson,  which  we  now  follow  closely,  obtaining  good  views  of  the 
Palisades  (p.  187),  on  the  opposite  side.  The  line  passes  several 
of  the  riverine  suburbs  of  New  York,  but  runs  at  too  low  a level 
to  aflord  views  of  them  (comp.,  however,  R.  21c).  14  M.  Mount 

St.  Vincent  (p.  188).  — 15  M.  Yonkers  (Arlington,  Bardinas,  Oetty  Ho., 
Wynnstay,  $2^/2),  a thriving  town,  with  (1900)  47,931  inhab.  and 
the  residences  of  many  New  Yorkers.  It  occupies  the  land  of  the 
Phillipse  estate  (comp.  p.  188),  and  the  manor-house  (1682),  in 
front  of  which  is  a Soldiers’  Monument,  is  now  the  city-hall.  — 
191/2  M.  Hastings-on-Hudson  (International).  — 21  M.  BohVs  Ferry 
(Bellevue),  a pictures(tue  suburban  village,  affording  fine  views  of 
the  N.  end  of  the  Palisades.  In  the  old  Livingston  Mansion  here, 
in  1783,  Washington,  Carleton,  and  Clinton  met  for  the  final  settle- 


192  Route  21. 


TAKRYTOWN. 


From  New  York 


ment  of  the  terms  on  which  England  recognized  American  in- 
dependence. - — ^*22  M.  Ardsley-on-Hudson,  with  its  golf  and  country 
club  (comp.  p.  21).  — 23  M.  Irvington^  on  the  hank  of  the  Tappan 
Zee,  with  ‘Sunny side’,  the  home  of  Washington  Irving,  the  E.  end 
of  which  is  covered  with  ivy,  grown  from  a slip  given  to  Irving  at 
Abbotsford  by  Sir  Walter  Scott  +.  The  house  has  lately  been  enlarged. 
The  Paulding  Manor  (^Lyndehurst ; see  p.  188)  is  a fine  old  building. 
Nevis  is  a stately  mansion  built  in  1836  by  a son  of  Alex.  Hamilton 
and  named  in  honour  of  his  father’s  birthplace.  Near  the  station 
are  the  huge  premises  of  the  Cosmopolitan  Printing  ^ Publishing  Co. 
— 25  M.  Tarrytown  {Florence,  $2-3),  on  a hill  rising  from  the  river. 

This  was  the  scene  of  Major  Andre’s  capture  in  1780  (spot  marked 
by  a monument)  and  is  the  centre  of  a district  rich  in  reminiscences  of 
the  Revolutionary  War.  It  is,  perhaps,  still  better  known  from  its  con- 
nection with  Washington  Irving  (1783-1859),  who  was  churchwarden  of 
Christchurch  here  (restored  in  1897)  and  is  buried  in  the  graveyard  of  the 
old  Dutch  Church,  M.  to  the  N.,  built  in  1699  with  bricks  brought  from 
Holland.  The  latter  church  lies  in  '‘Sleepy  Hollow",  which  is  traversed  by 
the  Pocantico  or  Mill  Brook,  with  the  bridge  across  which  ‘Ichabod  Crane’ 
rushed  helter-skelter  from  the  pursuit  of  the  ‘Headless  Horseman’.  The 
'Castle",  a huge  stone  building  with  four  towers,  is  now  a girls’  school. 
Among  the  most  beautiful  estates  near  Tarrytown  is  Rockwood  Hall,  the 
seat  of  Mr.  Wm.  Rockefeller.  Opposite  Tarrytown  lies  Nyack  (p.  188). 

31  M.  Ossining  {American  Hotel,  $ 2 V2 ; Crosier  Ho.,  $ 2),  formerly 
Sing  Sing,  a prettily  situated  town  with  (1900)  7839  inhab.,  is  the 
seat  of  the  State  Prison,  the  large  buildings  of  which  are  seen  to  the 
left.  The  Croton  Aqueduct  (p.  66)  here  crosses  a ravine  by  a stone 
arch,  70  ft.  high  and  88  ft.  in  span.  — The  train  then  crosses  the 
mouth  of  the  Croton  River  (6  M.  up  which  is  the  Croton  Reservoir, 
p.  65)  and  intersects  Croton  Point.  Across  the  Hudson,  which  is 
here  at  its  widest  {Haverstraw  Bay,  4 M.),  is  the  village  of  Haver- 
straw  (p.  188).  Farther  on  the  train  is  frequently  carried  across 
creeks  and  bays  on  low  trestle-work.  — 41  M.  Peekskill  {Raleigh, 
Eagle,  $2-3),  a pretty  little  town  with  (1900)  10,360  inbab.,  on 
Peekes  Kill,  opposite  the  Dunderherg  (p.  189 ; ferry  to  CaldwelVs 
Landing).  Excursions  may  be  made  to  Lake  Mohegan  (summer- 
hotels;  electric  cars),  Oseola  Lake,  and  Lake  Oscawana.  — The  train 
penetrates  Anthony’s  Nose  (p.  189)  by  a tunnel  70  yds.  long,  passes 
(46  M.)  Highlands  Station  (view  of  the  hills  across  the  Hudson), 
and  reaches  (50  M.)  Garrison  (Highland  Ho.  , loftily  situated, 
$ 21/2-3),  opposite  West  Point  (p.  194;  ferry  15  c.).  53  M.  Cold 
Spring  (ferry  to  Cornwall-on-the-Hudson,  p.  195) ; 55  M.  Storm  King, 
opposite  the  hill  of  that  name  (p.  189).  57  M.  Dutchess  Junction 

The  Newburgh,  Dutchess,  & Connecticut  R.  R.  runs  hence  to  (58  M.) 
Millerion  (p.  68),  passing  (29  M.)  Millhrook  (800ft.  ^ Halcyon,  from  $3^  Mill- 
brook  Inn,  $3),  a favourite  summer-resort. 

59  M.  Fishkill  Landing  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  Maiteawan 
Creek,  opposite  Newburgh  (p.  195;  ferry  9 c.). 

t According  to  another  version  of  the  story,  the  ivy  was  brought  from 
Melrose  Abbey. 


to  Albany. 


HUDSON. 


27.  Route.  193 


74  M.  Poughkeepsie  (200  ft.  above  the  river  5 Nelson  Ho..^  $3- 
31/2;  Morgan  Ho,^  $2-3;  Rail.  Restaurant)^  a city  of  (1900)  24,000 
inhab.,  was  settled  by  the  Dutch  in  1698  and  contains  some  hand- 
some buildings,  including  a large  State  Insane  Asylum.  The  name 
(pron.  Pokipsy)  is  a corruption  of  the  Indian  Apo-keep-sinck  (‘safe 
harbour’).  The  Eastman  Park  is  pleasantly  laid  out. 

About  IV2M.  to  tbeE.  lies  Vassar  College  (930  students  and  80  teachers), 
perhaps  the  most  famous  of  the  American  colleges  for  women,  founded 
and  endowed  by  Matthew  Vassar,  an  Englishman,  at  a cost  of  $ 1,000,000 
(200,000^;.)  and  consisting  of  about  a score  of  separate  buildings.  Among 
these  may  be  mentioned  the  main  building,  500  ft.  long,  modelled  after 
the  Tuileries^  the  new  library  (1803),  with  shelf-room  for  160,000  vols.;  and 
the  handsome  new  chapel.  — The  fine  Cantilever  Bridge  (see  p.  190)  was 
built  in  1836  89  to  provide  direct  communication  between  New  England 
and  the  coal-fields  of  Pennsylvania.  — Poughkeepsie  is  the  headquarters 
of  ice-boat  sailing  (comp.  p.  187). 

79  M.  Hyde  Park;  84  M.  Staatsburg.  The  river-banks  are  now 
much  less  precipitous.  — 89  M.  Rhinecliff^  terminus  of  the  Central 
New  England  R.  R.  About  2 M.  to  the  E.  lies  Rhineheck  (Rhinecliff 
Hotel,  $ 2),  round  which  about  25  sq.  M.  of  ground  are  devoted  to 
the  growing  of  violets  for  the  New  York  flower-market.  A steam- 
ferry  plies  hence  to  Kingston  (p.  195).  The  Beekman  House.,  near 
Rhinecliff,  is  a good  specimen  of  a Dutch  house  of  the  17th  century. 
— From  (99  M.)  Tivoli  a ferry  plies  to  Saugerties  (p.  196).  The 
Catskills  (p.  202)  are  now  prominent  on  the  other  side  of  the  Hud- 
son. From  (110  M.)  Greendale  or  Catskill  Station  a steam -ferry 
runs  to  the  town  of  Catskill  (p.  203),  the  chief  avenue  of  approach 
to  the  Catskill  Mts.  (R.  24). 

115  M.  Hudson  {Worth  Ho.,  $ 2^2  5 Central,  St.  Charles,  Lincoln, 
$2),  a small  city  with  (1900)  9530  inhab.,  on  the  slope  of  Prospect 
Hill  (200  ft.)  and  carries  on  an  active  river-trade  (steam-ferry  to 
Athens,  p.  191).  The  Albany  & Hudson  Railway  runs  hence  through 
a pleasant  country  to  (18  M.)  Niverville  (p.  172).  — 142  M.  Rens~ 
selaer  (comp.  p.  191).  Our  train  here  crosses  the  Hudson,  while 
trains  for  Troy  and  other  points  to  the  N.  (comp.  R.  20c)  continue 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river. 

143  M.  Albany  (Rail.  Restaurant),  see  p.  196. 


c.  Yik  Railway  on  the  West  Bank. 

West  Shoee  Railroad  in  41/2-51/2  brs.  (fare  $3.10:  sleeper 
$1.50,  parlor-car  $ 1).  This  line  affords  better  views  than  that  on  the  E 
(p.  67^  ferry  from  Franklin  St.  1/2  hr.,  from 

4-ind  ot.  1/4  hr.). 

The  train  starts  at  Weehawken  (see  p.  67;  Rail.  Restaurant)  and 
passes  through  a long  tunnel  into  the  valley  of  the  Hackensack,  which 
runs  through  marshes  to  the  left.  As  far  as  Nyack  our  line  runs 
parallel  with  the  Northern  New  Jersey  Railroad  (to  the  right).  All 
view  of  the  Hudson  is  at  first  cut  off  by  the  Palisades  (p.  187). 

11  M.  West  Englewood;  20  M.  Tappan  (p.  188);  25  M.  West 
Nyack,  1 1/2  M.  to  the  W.  of  Nyack  (p.  188).  At  (27  M.)  Valley  Cottage 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


194  Route  22. 


WEST  POINT. 


From  New  York 


the  South  Hook  Mt.  (p.  188)  rises  to  the  right.  291/2  M.  Congers 
is  the  station  for  Rockland  Lake  (150  ft.),  1 M.  to  the  S.E. , an  im- 
portant source  of  New  York's  ice-supply.  The  train  now  threads  a 
tunnel  and  emerges  on  Haverstraw  Bay  (p.  188;  *View  of  the 
Hudson).  To  the  left  is  High  Tor  (p.  188).  33  M.  Haverstraw  (Rock- 
land Ho.,  $2),  with  extensive  brick-fields.  The  line  now  hugs  the 
river.  From  (40  M.)  Jones  Point  a spiral  railway  (views)  ascends 
to  the  top  of  the  Dunderberg  (p.  189;  pleasure  grounds).  42  M. 
Iona  Island  (p.  189) ; 44  M.  Fort  Montgomery  (p.  189). 

481/2  M.  West  Point  {West  Point  Hotel,  adjoining  the  Parade 
Ground,  $ 3-31/2),  the  seat  of  the  well-known  Military  Academy  for 
training  officers  for  the  TJ.  S.  army,  is  finely  situated  on  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Hudson,  overlooking  the  Highlands  (p.  189).  The  railway 
station  is  on  the  level  of  the  river,  hut  the  parade-ground  and  the 
principal  buildings  of  the  ‘Post’  occupy  a plateau  about  180  ft.  above. 

West  Point  was  first  fortified  in  1778,  and  this  ‘Gibraltar  of  the  Hud- 
son' was  an  important  point  in  the  Revolutionary  War,  though  no  actual 
fiehtinff  took  place  here.  Arnold  was  commander  of  the  post  at  the  time 
of  his  treason.  Washington  recommended  the  site  for  a military  academy, 
but  it  was  not  till  1802  that  it  was  established.  v.  + poa  o/ioia 

The  '’■'West  Point  Militarjr  Academy  usually  contains  about  oUU  cadets, 
who  are  nominated,  between  the  ages  of  17  and  22,  by  Members  of  Con- 
eress  and  appointed  by  the  President.  The  discipline  is  essentially  mili- 
tary, and  the  course  of  instruction  (4  years)  is  very  thorough.  The  in- 
structors are  officers  of  the  army.  The  cadets  go  into  camp  in  July  and 
Au2  but  the  most  interesting  drills  are  held  in  April,  May,  Sept.,  and 
Oct.V  dress-parades  are  held  all  the  year  round,  weather  permitting. 

Visitors  will  find  an  introduction  convenient,  but  can  see  most  ot 
the  points  of  interest  without  one.  i . . x-. 

Lcending  from  the  landing  by  a good  road  cut  in  the  cliffs,  we  pass, 
on  the  right,  the  Riding  School  (visitors  admitted  to  the  galleries).  The 
horsemanship  of  the  senior  cadets  is  wonderfully  good,  and  no  one  should 
neglect  an  opportunity  to  see  their  exercises.  On  the  higher  ground 
immediately  to  the  W.  of  the  Riding  School  is  the  Headquarters  Building, 
and  farther  on  we  reach  in  succession  the  Library  (with  a dome),  the 
Chapel  (allegorical  painting  by  Weir;  but  see  below),  the  Aca^mic  Build- 
ing (by  R M.  Hunt),  the  Cadet  Barracks,  and  the  Gymnasium.  To  the  S.  of 
the  Academic  Building  is  the  Cadet  Mess  Hall,  with  portraits  of  Grant,  Sher- 
man, Sheridan,  and  other  officers.  « „ , ^ ^ 

All  military  exercises  take  place  on  the  fme  Parade  Ground , W acres 
in  area.  The  tall  Battle  Monument  (78  ft.  high),  near  the  flag-staff,  was 
erected  in  1894:  it  consists  of  a column  surmounted  by  a Victory  by 
Macmonnies.  In  the  N.W.  corner  is  a statue  of  Gen.  Sedgwick,  in  S.E.  corner 
one  of  Col.  Thayer.  To  the  N.E.,  in  an  angle  of  Fort  Clinton,  is  a mon- 
ument to  Kosciuszko.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  Parade  Grouna  is  the  Cullum 
Memorial  Hall,  with  the  Officers’'  Mess  io  the  &.  of  it,  while  in  front 
is  a monument  to  Dade's  Command  (p.  459).  _ .j  i j 4.  tt 

The  so-called  ‘Flirtation  Walk’,  on  the  river-side,  leads  io  Kosciuszko  s 
Garden,  a spot  frequented  by  that  heroic  Pole.  The  Officers  Quarters  are 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  Parade  Ground  *,  and  the  Soldiers  Barracks  are  on  a 
lower  level,  below  and  to  the  W.  of  the  West  Point  Hotel. 

[Congress  has  recently  appropriated  $ 5,500,000  for  improvements  and 
additions  to  West  Point  Academy^  and  among  the  new  buildings  now 
planned  or  in  progress  are  the  Headquarters  Building,  to  the  • i 
Cadet  Mess^  the  Academic  Building,  on  the  site  of  the  Present  chapel;  a 
Hotel,  on  the  the  hill  overlooking  the  Officers’  Quarters;  and  the  Chapel, 

t ) the  iS’'.  '>f  the  hotel  ] . 1 n.o 

The  views  from  diflerent  parts  of  the  Post  are  beautiful , but  the 


to  Albany. 


NEWBURGH. 


2i.  Route.  195 


visitor  with  a little  time  to  spare  should  ascend  to  Old  Fort  Putnam 
(596  ft.).  We  follow  the  road  ascending  the  hill  behind  the  Gymnasium 
and  at  (3  min.)  the  cross-roads  take  the  third  road  to  the  left  (second  to 
the  right),  which  brings  us  in  10-15  min.  to  the  ruins  of  the  Old  Fort.  Here 
we  can  walk  round  the  ramparts,  obtaining  a magnificent  ’’■‘View  in  all 
directions:  up  and  down  the  Hudson,  nearly  the  whole  of  the  Highlands, 
Newburgh,  the  buildings  of  the  Post  (at  our  feet),  the  red-domed  observa- 
tory on  a lower  hill  to  the  S.,  etc.  — A fine  road  (*Views)  leads  from 
West  Point  to  (7  M.)  Cornwall  (see  below)  over  the  slopes  of  Grow  Nest 
(p.  189)  and  Storm  King  (p.  189),  and  the  energetic  visitor  may  easily 
ascend  one  or  both  of  these  mountains  (*Views). 

Leaving  West  Point,  the  train  tunnels  under  the  Parade  Ground 
and  skirts  the  bases  of  Crow  Nest  (p.  189)  and  Storm  King  (p.  189), 
commanding  fine  views  of  the  mountains  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Hudson.  53  m.  Cornwall  (Elmer  Ho.,  $2Y2“3)5  ^ popular  summer 
resort,  with  Idlewild.^  for  15  years  the  home  of  N.P.  Willis  (1807-67). 

58  M.  Newburgh  (^Palatine,  $ 3-4;  U.  S.  Hotel,  $ 2),  a city 
and  coaling  port  of  (1900)  24,950  inhah.,  finely  situated  on  the  W. 
bank  of  the  Hudson,  130-300  ft.  above  the  water.  The  chief  point  of 
interest  here  is  the  old  Hashrouck  Mansion,  to  the  S.  of  the  city, 
which  was  Washington’s  headquarters  in  1782-83  and  dates  in  part 
from  1750  (interesting  relics ; adm.  free;  catalogue  25c.).  It  was 
here  that  Washington  was  offered  the  title  of  king  by  the  officers 
of  the  army.  In  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  grounds  is  the  so-called 
Tower  of  Victory,  with  a statue  of  Washington  (view). 

Newburgb  is  the  junction  of  a branch  of  the  Erie  Railway,  running 
into  Pennsylvania. 

The  line  continues  to  follow  the  Hudson  closely.  — 73  M.  High- 
land is  the  station  for  the  steam-ferry  to  Poughkeepsie  (p.  193). 

89  M.  Kingston  (Rail.  Restaurant)  and  Rondout  (^Mansion  Ho., 
$ 2-2 V2;  ‘ronduit’  = fort,  redoubt),  the  one  on  the  heights  a little 
back  from  the  river  and  the  other  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rondout 
Creek,  have  been  united  in  one  city  with  (1900)  24,535  inhab., 
cement  works,  and  a trade  in  coal.  The  Senate  House  of  Kingston, 
built  in  1676  and  the  first  home  of  the  N.  Y.  State  Legislature,  con- 
tains an  interesting  collection  of  Dutch  and  other  relics.  Kingston 
was  burned  by  the  British  in  1777. 

Kingston  is  the  junction  for  the  Ulster  & Delaware  R.  R.,  one  of  the 
approaches  to  the  Catskill  Mts.  (see  R.  24c),  and  connects  by  steam-ferry 
with  Rhinecliff  (p.  193).  — Rondout  is  the  termination  of  the  Delaware 
and  Hudson  Canal,  which  was  constructed  in  1825-28  to  tap  the  Penn- 
sylvania coal-fields  and  runs  to  (108  M.)  Honesdale.  About  2^/2  million 
tons  of  coal  are  annually  brought  over  it. 

From  Kingston  to  Campbell  Hall,  38  M.,  W allkill  Valley  R.  R.  in 
IV3-2  hvs  This  line  is  of  importance  to  the  tourist  mainly  as  giving 
access  to  Lakes  Mohonk  and  Minnewaska  (see  below).  The  station  for  both 
of  these  is  (15  M.)  New  Paltz  (Tamney  Ho.,  $ 2),  which  may  also  be 
reached  from  New  York  via  the  N.Y.,  Ontario,  & Western  R.  R.  and  the 
Erie  R.  R.  (through  - fare  to  Lake  Mohonk  about  $3V2,  to  Minnewaska 
about  $41/2)  and  by  trolley-line  from  Highland,  opposite  Poughkeepsie 
(p.  193).  Stages  run  in  connection  with  the  trains  from  New  Paltz  to 
(6  M.)  Lake  Mohonk  (fare  $1.25,  when  not  included  in  the  railway  ticket; 
trunk  50  c.)  and  to  (10  M.)  Minnewaska  (fare  $ 1.50),  but  Kerhonkson,  on  the 
N.  Y.,  Ontario,  and  Western  R,  R.,  is  within  6 M.  of  Lake  Minnewaska 

id’^ 


196  Route  22. 


LAKE  MINNEWASKA, 


(\  hr  ) __  ^Lake  Mohonk  (1245  ft.)  is  a charming  little  sheet  of  water, 
situated  near  the  summit  of  Sky  Top  (1550  ft.),  one  of  the  Shawangunk  Mts., 

6 M to  the  W.  of  l^ew  Paltz.  Fine  views  are  enjoyed  in  all  directions 
over  a scene  in  which  the  wild  and  the  gentle  are  mingled  in  picturesque 
variety.  On  the  margin  of  the  lake  stands  the  *Mohonk  House,  a huge 
hotel  with  accommodation  for  450  guests  (from  $ 3 a day,  $ 18-42  a week, 
acc  to  season).  The  mountains  are  traversed  by  fine  walks  and  drives, 
and  fishing,  bathing,  and  golf  (links  near  the  Mountain  Best  Ho.,  see 
below)  are  also  among  the  attractions.  — About  6 M.  to  the  S.  Lake 
Mohonk  and  10  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Kew  Paltz,  at  an  elevation  of  1800  ft., 
is  'Lake  Minnewaska,  on  the  banks  of  which  are  two  similar  hotels,  the 
Wildmere  and  the  ($  21/2-4  a day,  $12-25  a week).  All  three  hotels 
are  mana'^ed  on  ‘a  strictly  temperance  plan  . Moreover  "visitors  are  not 
expected  to  arrive  or  depart  on  the  Sabbath’.  The  life  generally  is  much 
quieter  than  at  most  large  American  summer-hotels.  The  Mohonk  House 
opens  about  June  1st  and  closes  about  Oct.  20th  ^ the  Minnewaska  season 
begins  in  mid-June  and  closes  about  the  end  of  September.  — On  the  crest 
of  the  mountains  above  Lake  Mohonk,  overlooking  the  valleys  of  the 
Rondoui  and  the  Wallkill,  is  the  Mountain  Rest,  a boarding-house  for 
80  guests  ($  21/2-3  a day,  $ 12-20  a week).  — The  "Mohonk  Conferences  , 
held  every  May  <fe  Oct.,  discuss  International  Arbitration  and  the  means 
of  improving  the  condition  of  the  American  Indian.  ^ ^ ^ 

A charming  excursion  for  drivers,  cyclists,  or  automobilists  is  from 
Kingston  to  Lake  Mohonk,  thence  to  Port  Jervis  (p.  245),  and  thence  by 
the  old  coach-route  down  the  valley  of  the  Delaware  to  the  Delaware  Water 
Gap  (p.  243).  Comp.  p.  246. 

The  train  now  runs  at  some  little  distance  from  the  river.  100  M. 
Saugerties^  at  the  month  of  the  Esopus  Creek  (rail,  stat.,  1 M.  from 
the  river),  near  the  Plattekill  Clove  (p.  207). 

Ill  M.  Catskill,  the  junction  of  the  CatsMll  Mt  Railway  and 
another  portal  to  the  Catskill  Mts,,  see  p.  203.  1151/2  M.  West  Athens ; 
121  M.  Coxsackie.  At  (129  M.)  Ravena  the  line  for  Buffalo  and  the 
West  diverges  to  the  left. 

142  M.  Albany,  see  below. 


22.  Albany. 

Hotels.  'Ten  Etck  (PI.  b;  D,  4,  5),  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  State  and 
Chapel  Sts.,  E.  from  $2^  New  Kenmore  (P1.  a;  D,  4),  N.  Pearl  St.,  E.  from 
$2*  StanwixHall  (PI.  e;  D,  5),  Broadway,  near  the  railway-station,  from 
$21/2,  E.  from  $1^  Globe  (Pl.e;  D,  5),  State  St.,  $21/2-8,  well  spoken  of; 
Keeler’s,  Broadway,  for  men  only,  E.  from  75  c. ; Mansion  Ho.,  o87  Broad- 

^^ilitaurants  at  the  "Ten  Eyck^  -'New  Kenmore,  and  other  hotels  j Keeler's^ 
State  St.:  Railway  Restaurant.  , . i. 

Tramways  (chiefly  electric;  fare  5 c.)  run  through  the  mam  streets 
and  to  Watervliet  (p.  200),  Cohoes  (p.  183),  Troy  (p.  i%b),  West  Albany,  ^ 
Rensselaer.  — Electric  Railv/ays  run  from  Albany  to  Lake  George  (p.  2-8), 
Hudson  (35  M.;  p.  193),  Schenectady  (p.  232),  Saratoga  (P-  225)  etc. 

Steamers  ply  to  New  York  (see  E.  21a),  Newburgh  (p.  195), 
and  Troy  (p.  185),  and  Steam  Ferry  Boats  run  to  Rensselaer  {p.  191)  and  Bath. 

Cabs.  For  each  pers.,  1 M.  50  c.,  2 M.  75  c.,  3 M.  $ 1. 

Theatres.  Empire  (PL  C,  D,  5),  State  St.,  above  S.  Pearl  St  ; Proctors 
Theatre  S.  Pearl  St.;  Harmanus  Bleecker  Hall  (PI.  B,  3),  seep.  2CU. 

Post  Office  (PI.  D,  5),  Broadway,  corner  of  State  St. 

Albany,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  New  York,  is  a thriving  com- 
mercial city  with  (1900)  94,150  inhab.,  finely  situated  on  terraced 


imm 

Of  THE 

UMIVEKSHT  of  ILUFK)IS. 


Warner  i Deljes’&eogiEytabMeipzi^. 


’J  ^ I 


'r-y> 


x\^V 


ALBANY. 


22.  Route.  197 


hills  rising  from  the  W.  hank  of  the  Hudson.^  at  its  confluence 
with  the  Erie  and  Champlain  Canals.  It  is  well  built  on  the  whole, 
with  many  really  handsome  buildings,  and  retains  much  of  the 
clean,  comfortable,  and  easy-going  character  of  its  original  Dutch 
foundation.  Brewing  and  stove-making  are  its  chief  industries, 
and  it  has  a large  lumber  market.  Albany  is  united  with  the  E.  bank 
of  the  Hudson  by  a road-bridge  and  two  railway-bridges  (comp, 
p.  191). 

Albany  was  founded  by  the  Dutch  in  1609,  and  was  thus,  next  to 
Jamestown  in  Virginia  (p.  413),  the  oldest  European  settlement  in  the 
Thirteen  Original  States.  A stockade  was  erected  here  in  1624  and  named 
Fort  Orange  but  in  1664,  when  the  place  passed  into  the  hands  of  the 
British,  it  was  re-christened  Albany  in  honour  of  the  future  James  II.  The 
small  town  long  carried  on  a lucrative  fur-trade  with  the  Indians,  but  did 
not  contain  more  than  5000  inhab.  at  the  beginning  of  the  19th  cen- 
tury. It  received  a city  charter  in  1686  and  became  the  State  capital  in  1T9S. 

In  1629  the  ‘Patroon’  system  of  Holland  was  established  on  the  Hud- 
son. The  first  Patroon  was  Killian  van  Rensselaer.^  of  Amsterdam,  a direc- 
tor of  the  Dutch  West  India  Co.,  who,  along  with  others,  received  from 
the  States  General  a grant  of  land  extending  along  the  Hudson  for  24  M. 
from  the  Mohawk  River  to  Beeren  Island,  below  Albany,  and  running  in- 
land for  24  M.  from  each  bank.  The  Patroon  was  practically  a feudal 
lord,  with  the  absolute  title  to  the  soil,  and  his  tenants  were  little  more 
than  serfs.  The  property  was  created  a manor  in  1685,  and  soon  after 
the  Van  Rensselaer  heir  bought  out  the  other  co-proprietors.  The  manor 
was  not  entailed,  but  its  descent  was  regulated  by  the  law  of  primogeni- 
ture. The  patroonship  was  inherited  through  five  generations  but  became 
obsolete  after  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  The  last  Patroon,  Oen. 
Stephen  van  Rensselaer.,  died  in  1839.  After  the  Revolution,  the  obligation 
of  paying  rent  to  the  Patroon  produced  the  so-called  ‘Anti -Rent  War  , 
which  convulsed  the  State  oflN’ew  York  and  caused  the  troops  to  be  called 
out  several  times.  The  rights  of  the  Van  Rensselaers  were  sustained  by  all 
the  State  Courts.  Col.  Church  purchased  the  rights  of  the  Van  Rensselaers  in 
1853,  and  most  of  the  tenants  have  acquired  the  fee-simple  of  their  lands. 

The  Erie  Canal,  which  connects  Lake  Erie  at  Buffalo  with  the  Hudson 
at  Albany,  was  constructed  in  1817-25  at  an  original  cost  of  $7,500,000 
(1,500,000^.),  since  increased  to  at  least  $ 100,000,00J  (20,000,000L),  including 
maintenance,  enlargement,  feeders,  and  connections  (Champlain  Canal,  etc.). 
It  is  a monument  of  the  foresight  of  Oov.  Be  Witt  Clinton  (p.72),  who  pushed 
on  the  work  in  spite  of  all  opposition,  and  gave  New  York  its  start  as  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  America.  The  canal  is  360  M.  long,  7 ft.  deep, 
56  ft.  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  70  ft.  wide  at  the  surface.  It  descends  570  ft.  by 
means  of  72  locks.  It  is  chiefiy  used  for  the  conveyance  of  grain,  salt,  and 
timber;  and  the  annual  amount  of  goods  carried  over  it  is  3,000  000  tons, 
valued  at  $ 300,000,000  (6O,OOO,O0OL).  The  canal  is  now  being  reconstructed, 
at  an  immense  cost. 

Albany  has  long  been  an  important  political  centre.  In  1754  a provincial 
congress  that  met  here  formed  a plan  of  union  that  made  possible  the 
concerted  action  of  the  Colonies  a little  later;  and  in  more  recent  times 
the  little  knot  of  Albany  politicians  has  practically  determined  the  nom- 
ination and  election  of  several  Presidents  of  the  United  States.  The  ‘Al- 
bany Regency’  was  the  name  given  by  Thurlow  Weed  to  a powerful  junta 
of  Democratic  politicians  here  in  1824-37,  including  Martin  van  Buren. 

Bret  Harte  (d.  1902)  was  born  at  Albany  in  1839. 

The  large  Union  Railway  Station  (PI.  D,  4)  abuts  on  Broadway^ 
the  chief  commercial  thoroughfare,  running  nearly  parallel  with  the 
Hudson.  A little  to  the  S.,  at  the  corner  of  State  St.,  stand  the 
Post  Office  (PL  D,  5)  and  the  building  of  the  Albany  Trust  Co. 


198  Route  22. 


ALBANY. 


Capitol. 


* State  Street,  150  ft.  wide,  ascends  directly  from  the  river  to 
the  (74 M.)  Capitol  (see  helow),  crossing  PearlSt.  (N.  andS.),  which 
runs  parallel  with  Broadway  and  contains  the  best  shops.  To  the 
right,  at  the  corner  of  James  St,  is  the  Mechanics^  and  Farmers  Bank., 
with  an  inscription  stating  that  it  occupies  the  site  of  the  house  of 
Anneke  Janse  Bogardus  (1663),  whose  heirs  made  such  valiant  and 
long- continued  efforts  to  recover  from  Trinity  Church  (p.  33)  the 
old  family  property  in  New  York.  On  the  same  side,  just  helow  N. 
Pearl  St,  is  the  New  York  State  National  Bank.,  hearing  an  inscrip- 
tion to  the  effect  that  it  is  the  oldest  hank-huilding  continuously 
used  as  such  in  the  United  States  (since  1803). 

The  chief  huildings  in  N.  Pearl  Street  (PI.  D,  4)  are  the  Albany  Savings 
Bank.,  the  Young  Men''s  Christian  Association.,  the  National  Commercial  Bank., 
the  National  Savings  Bank.,  and  the  Kenmore  Hotel  (W.  side). 

S.  PearlSt.  ends  at  (21/4  M.)  N orman"' s Kill . — Schuyler  St.,  from 

State  St.,  runs  to  the  right  from  S.  Pearl  St.  to  the  interesting  old  * Schuyler 
Mansion  (PI.  C,6),  now  a R C.  orphan  asylum,  huilt  for  Gen.  Philip  Schuyler 
in  1760-61.  Alex.  Hamilton  was  here  married  to  Elizabeth  Schuyler  in  1780, 
and  a dent  in  the  old  staircase  is  said  to  have  been  made  by  the  toma- 
hawk of  one  of  a party  of  Indians  who  tried  to  carry  off  Gen.  Schuyler 
in  1781.  Gen.  Burgoyne  was  entertained  here  with  his  staff  after  his 
capture  at  Saratoga.  Washington,  Franklin,  Carroll  of  Carrollton,  etc., 
were  also  guests  of  this  house,  and  Pres.  Millard  Fillmore  was  married  here. 

A little  farther  up  State  St.,  to  the  right,  is  the  large  Ten  Eyck 
Hotel  (p.  196)  ; to  the  left  are  the  Empire  Theatre  (p.  196),  the  ten- 
story  building  of  the  Albany  City  Savings  Institution^  and  the  State 
Museum  of  Natural  History  (PI.  C,  5;  daily,  9-6),  containing 
zoological,  mineral,  and  agricultural  collections,  mainly  illustrative 
of  the  State  of  New  York.  Opposite  the  museum  stands  St.  Peter's 
Episcopal  Church  (PI.  C,  4). 

The  *Capitol  (PI.  C,  4),  commandingly  situated  at  the  top  of  State 
St.  hill,  with  a small  park  in  front  of  it,  is  a huge  structure  in  the 
French  Renaissance  style,  built  in  the  form  of  a quadrangle,  300  ft. 
wide  and  400  ft.  deep,  with  a central  tower  (to  be  300  ft.  high)  and 
Louvres  towers  at  the  angles.  The  central  court  is  137  ft.  long  and 
92  ft.  wide;  above  the  dormer  windows  are  the  arms  of  the  Stuyve- 
sant,  Schuyler,  Livingston,  Jay,  Clinton,  and  Tompkins  families.  The 
building  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  United  States  and  covers  an 
area  of  three  acres  (comp.  p.  262).  It  is  built  of  a light  - coloured 
granite,  which  contrasts  pleasantly  with  the  red-tiled  roofs.  It  was 
begun  in  1867,  and  was  completed,  with  the  exception  of  the  tower, 
in  1898.  Its  total  cost  is  estimated  at  at  least  $25,000,000.  The 
original  design  was  by  Thomas  Fuller,  but  this  has  been  considerably 
modified  in  construction.  ‘If  anyone  had  come  up  to  me  and  told 
me  in  French,  old  or  new,  that  the  new  Capitol  was  “le  chateau  de 
Monseigiieur  le  due  d’Albanie”,  I could  almost  have  believed  him’ 
(E.  A.  Freeman). 

The  Eastern  Approach  is  the  principal  one.  It  extends  out  from 
the  building  for  166  ft.,  provides  for  an  entrance  to  the  groundfloor 


City  Hall. 


ALBANY. 


22.  Route.  199 


through  an  arcade  and  to  the  first  floor  through  a broad  portico  reached 
by  77  steps,  and  gives  dignity  to  the  chief  fagade  of  the  building. 

Interior  (guidebooks  and  photographs  for  sale  at  stall  inside  N.  entrance ; 
guides  obtainable  on  application  at  the  Superintendent’s  Oftice), 

The  Ground  Floor,  which  is  occupied  by  offices  and  committee-rooms, 
is  connected  with  the  upper  floors  by  elevators  and  by  three  handsome 
staircases.  The  Assembly  Staircase.,  in  the  N.E.  corner,  built  of  freestone, 
is  fine  but  ill-lighted  and  somewhat  gloomy.  The  '^Senate  Staircase^  in  the 
S.E.  part  of  the  building,  is  of  warm  red  sandstone,  with  round  and  pointed 
arches  and  much  line  tracery  and  decoration.  The  - Western  Staircase.,  in 
the  centre  of  the  W.  side,  is  of  light-red  sandstone,  with  treads  of  reddish- 
brown  freestone,  and  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  staircases  in  the  world. 
It  consists  of  a double  stairway,  ascending  to  the  top  of  the  dome  (119  ft.), 
and  is  profusely  adorned  with  carvings  of  historic  scenes,  foliage,  and  his- 
toric and  symbolic  heads,  all  shown  off  to  great  advantage  by  the  colour 
and  texture  of  the  stone. 

The  First  Floor  also  is  mainly  occupied  by  offices.  In  the  S.E.  corner 
is  the  Governor’' s Room  or  Executive  Chamber  (60  X 40  ft.),  with  mahogany 
wainscoting  and  ceiling  and  hangings  of  Spanish  leather.  The  elaborate 
coloured  marble  decorations  of  the  S.  Corridors  are  very  eflective.  Near 
the  E.  end  of  the  N.  side  (below  the  Assembly  Chamber)  is  Old  Court 
of  Appeals,  now  used  by  the  Agricultural  Department.  It  has  a fine  carved 
oak  ceiling. 

Second  Floor.  The  Assembly  Chamber  (in  the  centre  of  the  N.  side), 
140  ft.  long  and  84  ft.  wide  (including  the  galleries),  was  originally  covered 
by  the  largest  groined  arch  in  the  world  (56  ft.  high),  supported  by  four 
massive  columns  of  marble.  The  N.  and  S.  walls  were  decorated  with  two 
monumental  frescoes  by  Wm.  M.  Hunt,  but  these  are  now  concealed  by  a 
wooden  ceiling,  v^hile  the  arched  roof,  having  proved  unstable,  has  been 
removed.  Visitors  admitted  to  the  galleries  when  the  house  is  in  session. 
"kq  Court  of  Appeals,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  S.  side,  is  a fine  room 
(53  ft.  long  and  35  ft.  wide),  adorned  with  red  oak,  marble,  and  Mexican 
onyx.  Next  to  it  is  the  ’“'Senate  Chamber,  one  of  the  most  sumptuous 
legislative  halls  in  the  world,  the  elaborate  design  of  which  is  due  to 
Mr.  H.  H.  Richardson  (p.  xciii).  It  is  100  ft.  long,  60  ft.  wide,  and  50  ft.  high 
(including  lobbies  and  galleries).  Among  the  chief  decorative  features 
are  the  oaken  ceiling,  the  panelling  of  Mexican  onyx  and  Tennessee  marble, 
the  gilded  frieze,  the  open  fireplaces,  the  chandeliers,  and  the  stained- 
glass  windows.  The  galleries  are  supported  by  arches  of  yellow  Siena 
marble,  borne  by  dark-red  granite  columns.  ‘When  I say  that  the  arches 
in  the  Senate  Chamber  seemed  to  me,  as  far  as  their  general  conception 
goes,  worthy  to  stand  at  Ragusa,  some  will  understand  that  I can  say  no 
more’  (Freeman).  — The  Lieut.  Governors  Room  is  entered  from  the  W.  lobby 
of  the  Senate  Chamber.  — - The  valuable  -State  Library  (over  500,000  vols.) 
cocupies  a magnificent  room  extending  completely  across  the  W.  side  of 
the  building. 

Third  or  Gallery  Floor  (reached  by  elevator  or  small  staircase).  On 
the  N.  side  are  Committee  Rooms  and  entrances  to  the  Galleries  of  the 
Assembly  Room.  On  the  S.  side  are  Committee  Rooms,  the  entrances  to 
the  Senate  Galleries,  and  the  Bureau  of  Military  Statistics  (W.  end;  open 
9-5),  with  a collection  of  State  flags  used  in  the  Civil  War,  photographs, 
memorials  of  Lincoln,  American  antiquities,  and  other  relics.  The  University 
of  the  State  of  New  Y.ork  has  its  offices  on  this  floor. 

To  the  N.E.  of  tlie  Capitol  Park,  at  tlie  corner  of  Eagle  St.  and 
Maiden  Lane,  is  the  *City  Hall  (^Pl.  0,  4),  a striking  and  beautiful 
building  hy  H.  H.  Richardson  (1881-83),  in  a free  S.  French  Gothic 
style,  with  a fine  tower.  Just  to  the  N.  of  it  is  the  State  Hall,  con- 
taining the  palaeontological  collections  of  the  Natural  History  Museum 
(p.  198).  Opposite  are  the  Academy  Park  and  the  Albany  Academy 


200  BouU  22, 


ALBANY. 


(for  boys),  where  Joseph  Henry  first  demonstrated  the  theory  of 
the  magnetic  telegraph  by  ringing  a bell  by  electricity  transmitted 
through  a mile  of  wire  strung  round  the  room  (1831). 

By  following  Eagle  Street  towards  the  S.  we  reach  the  Albany  Medical 
College  (good  museum)  and,  at  the  corner  of  Madison  Ave.,  the  R.  C.  Cathe- 
dral of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  a large  Gothic  building,  with  spires 
210  ft.  high.  The  elaborate  interior  is  lighted  by  numerous  stained-glass 
windows.  A little  farther  on,  below  Elm  St.,  is  the  Governor's  Mansion, 
— To  the  S.  of  this  point  lies  Beaver  Park  (PI.  A,  B,  5,  6). 

To  the  W.  of  the  Capitol  State  St.  is  continued,  past  the  Albany 
Latu/Sfc/ioo?(Pl.B,  fPl-A,  B,  3,4), 

which,  though  not  yery  large  (100  acres),  is  beautifully  laid  out 
(views  of  Catskills  and  Helderbergs),  It  contains  a small  lake,  a 
bronze  statue  of  Robert  Burns,  and  a fountain  with  a bronze  figure 
of  Moses  about  to  smite  the  rock  with  his  rod.  In  Willett  St.,  on 
the  E.  side  of  the  park,  is  the  State  Normal  College  (PI.  B,  4),  an 
imposing  building.  — In  Lake  Avenue,  to  the  S.W.  of  Washington 
Park,  are  the  Bender  Laboratory^  the  Albany  Hospital,  the  Alms 
Houses,  and  the  Dudley  Observatory  (beyond  PI.  A,  4),  a well- 
equipped  and  well-endowed  institution,  which  has  done  good  astro- 
nomical work  (visitors  admitted  on  previous  written  application  to 
the  Director). 

In  Washington  Avenue  (PI.  B,  C,  3,  4j  street-cars)  is  the  hand- 
some Harmanus  BleecUer  Hall,  transformed  into  a theatre  in  1898. 
Adjoining,  at  the  corner  of  Lark  St,  is  the  State  Armoury  (PI.  B,  3), 
with  its  great  roun-d  arches. 

In  S.  Swan  St,  a little  to  the  N.  of  Washington  Ave.  and  only  a 
few  minutes’  walk  from  the  Capitol,  is  the  Episcopal  ^Cathedral  of 
All  Saints  (PL  C,4j,  begun  in  1883  and  the  first  regularly  organised 
Protestant  cathedral  erected  in  the  United  States. 

The  cboiv,  with  its  large  E.  window,  has  been  finished,  but  the  rest 
of  the  building  lacks  the  courses  above  the  triforium  (at  present  replaced 
by  a temporary  roof),  and  the  towers  also  have  still  to  be  added.  With 
its  noble  proportions  (length  2T0  ft.)  and  tasteful  details,  it  promises  to  be 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  churches  in  America.  Its  style  is  English  Gothic. 
The  architect  is  Mr.  R.  W.  Gibson.  The  six  nave  windows  commemorate  six 
of  the  oldest  Dutch  families  in  Albany,  and  the  rest  of  the  church  is  largely 
made  up  of  similar  memorials  in  the  shape  of  pillars,  windows,  etc. 

We  may  go  on  from  here  by  electric  car  (5  c.)  to  (20  min.)  the  Rural 
Cemetery  and  (V2  hr.)  Watervliet  (p.  196).  Visitors  to  the  "Rural  Cemetery 
have  V2  M.  to  walk  (to  the  left)  after  leaving  the  car,  when  they  reach 
the  tasteful  lodge  of  the  cemetery  to  the  right  and  the  gate  of  the  St. 
Agnes  R.  C.  Cemetery  to  the  left.  The  chief  lion  of  the  Rural  Cenietery  is 
the  figure  of  the  Angel  at  the  Sepulchre,  by  E.  D.  Palmer  (1817-1904),  to 
reach  which  we  turn  to  the  left  at  the  lodge  and  follow,  as  nearly  as 
possible,  the  railing  of  the  St.  Agnes  Cemetery,  until  we  reach  the  top  of 
the  S.  Ridge  (*Views).  Close  by  is  the  tomb  of  Gen.  Schuyler  (p.  198)  and  a 
little  to  the  N.  is  that  of  President  Arthur  (1830-86). 

Among  the  other  buildings  of  Albany  may  be  mentioned  St.  Joseph's 
Church  (R.  C.  \ PI.  D,  3),  at  the  corner  of  Ten  Broeck  St.  and  Second  St.  ^ 
the  Child's  Hospital  (PI.  C,  4);  the  Sacred  Heart  Convent  (beyond  PI.  B,  1)-, 
and  the  Penitentiary  (PI.  A,  5).  r.  .j  tt  m 

The  old  Vanderheyden  Place  (1^25),  mentioned  in  ‘Bracebridge  Hall  , 
stood  near  ‘Elm  Tree  Corner’  (cor.  of  State  St.  and  Pearl  St.),  on  a site 


COOPERSTOWN.  23.  Route.  201 

now  occupied  by  the  Albany  Savings  Banlc;  and  at  the  N.E.  corner  af  State 
and  Pearl  St.  was  the  quaint  Lydius  House. 

Among  points  of  interest  within  easy  reach  of  Albany,  besides  the 
Hudson  River  places  of  R.  21,  are  Saratoga  (p.  225),  the  Catskills  (p.  202), 
the  Adirondacks  (p.  209),  Sharon  Springs  (see  below),  Cooperstown  (see  below), 
and  Lake  George  (p.  223).  Shakers.^  6 M.  to  the  N.W.,  was  the  original  Shaker 
settlement  in  America  (1774)  and  is  the  burial-place  of  Mother  Ann  Lee 
d.  1784). 


23.  From  Albany  to  Binghamton. 

143  M.  Delaware  and  Hudson  Railroad  (Susquehanna  Division)  in 
474-5  hrs.  (fare  $ 4.25  j parlor-car  75  c.). 

The  line  ascends  towards  the  W.  At  (11 M.)  Voorheesville  (p.  24‘2) 
we  cross  the  West  Shore  R.  R.  To  the  left  are  the  Helderherg  Mis., 
whence  the  Helderherg  limestone  formations  are  named.  Near  (MM.) 
Meadowdale  is  the  fine  cliff  known  as  the  ‘Indian  Ladder’.  — 17  M. 
Altamont  (Helderherg  Inn,  from  $ 4),  with  the  summer-houses  of 
many  Albanians,  is  the  best  headquarters  for  exploring  the  Hel- 
derberg  Mts.  — At  (27  M.)  Delonson^  where  the  line  from  Mech- 
anicville  and  Saratoga  j oins  ours,  we  see  to  the  left  the  singular  trestl  e- 
work  of  the  Dodge  Coal  Storage  Apparatus.  — From  (36  M.^  Schoharie 
Junction  a branch-line  runs  to  (4  M.)  Schoharie  and  (10  M.)  Middle- 
burgh. 

45  M.  Cohleskill  (Augustan,  $ 2)  is  the  junction  of  a branch- 
line to  (14  M.)  Sharon  Springs  and  (23  M.)  Cherry  Valley. 

Sharon  Springs  (Pavilion.,  finely  situated,  $ 3-4;  Sharon  House,  Rosen- 
berg, $3;  Union  Ho.,  $272-3;  Howland  Ho.,  $2),  charmingly  situated  in 
a pretty  little  wooded  valley,  12C0  ft.  above  the  sea,  has  frequented  sul- 
phur and  chalybeate  springs,  chiefly  used  for  bathing.  Just  below  the 
Baths,  at  the  old  bridge  to  the  N.,  the  stream  forms  a pretty  waterfall, 
CO  ft.  high.  The  piazza  at  the  back  of  the  Pavilion  Hotel  commands  an 
extensive  'View  over  the  Mohawk  Valley  (p.  232),  with  the  Adirondacks 
in  the  background.  The  view  from  ^"Prospect  Hill,  SVz  M.  to  the  N.W., 
on  the  road  to  Cherry  Valley,  is  still  finer. 

23  m.  Cherry  (1320  ft.),  another  little  summer-resort,  with  hotels 

and  boarding-houses.  In  1778  the  inhabitants  were  all  massacred  or  taken 
prisoner  by  the  Tories  and  Indians.  A pleasant  drive  may  be  taken  to 
(14  m.)  Richfield  Springs  (p.  234;  stage). 

50  M.  Richmondville ; 67  M.  Schenevus.  A little  faither  on  we 
cross  the  watershed  between  the  Mohawk  and  the  Susquehanna.  — 
76  M,  Cooperstown  Junction,  for  a short  line  to  (16  M.)  Cooperstown. 

Cooperstown  (1240  ft. ; *Fenimore  Ho.,  $2-3;  Otsego  Hall,  $21/2;  Park  Ho  , 
from  $ a village  of  2368  inhab.,  prettily  situated  at  the  lower  (S.) 
end  of  Otsego  Lake,  was  founded  in  1786  by  Wm.  Cooper,  father  of  J.  Feni- 
more  Cooper  (1789-1851),  the  novelist,  who  lived  and  died  here  and  immor- 
talized the  district  in  his  romances.  *Otsego  Lake  (the  ‘Glimmerglass’  of 
Cooper),  9 M.  long  and  3/4-IV2  M.  wide,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  of  the  New 
York  lakes.  The  Susquehanna  issues  from  it  at  the  foot  of  River  St. 

To  reach  the  site  of  the  old  Cooper  Mansion,  where  the  novelist  lived 
from  1834  to  his  death  in  1851,  we  descend  Main  St.  and  turn  to  the  right 
at  Fair  St.  (first  cross-street  beyond  the  Park  Hotel).  It  is  marked  by  a 
statue  of  an  Indian  Hunter,  and  the  grounds  around  it  have  been  con- 
verted into  a park,  open  to  the  public.  The  building  opposite  the  main 
entrance  contains  a library  and  a collection  of  relics  referring  to  Cooper 


202  Route  24. 


THE  CATSKILL  MTS. 


rand  Cooperstown.  Cooper  is  buried  in  the  Episcopal  graveyard,  reached 
by  turning  to  the  left  beyond  the  site  of  the  house. 

A small  steamer  plies  regularly  on  Otsego  Lake.  The  drive  or  walk 
round  the  lake  (ca.  20  M.)  is  a pleasant  excursion.  Crossing  the  Susque- 
hanna at  the  foot  of  Main  St.,  we  reach  (5  min.)  cross-roads,  where 
walkers  may  ascend  the  steps  to  the  right  through  wood.  In  13  min.  we 
cross  a road  and,  keeping  to  the  left,  reach  (3-4  min.)  the  summer-house 
on  Prospect  Rock  (1440  ft.),  commanding  a splendid  "'View  of  Cooperstown 
and  the  lake.  Returning  to  (3-4  min.)  the  road  we  crossed,  we  descend  it 
to  (10  min.)  the  above-mentioned  fork.  We  then  continue  our  route  along 
the  lake,  the  pretty  tree-shaded  road  recalling  that  along  the  W.  bank  of 
Windermere.  7 min.  Cemetery^  containing  a monument  to  Fenimore  Cooper. 
About  2-3  min.  farther  on  a path  descends  to  the  left  to  the  Fairy  Spring. 
About  Va  M.  beyond  the  cemetery  is  a rough  path  (right)  ascending  to 
(10  min.)  Natty  Bumpo^s  Cave  (view).  Point  Judith^  with  Kingfisher’s  Tower, 
is  1 M.  farther  on. 

In  following  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake  we  pass  many  of  the  places 
mentioned  in  Cooper's  ‘Deerslayer’.  1/2  M.  Hannah's  Hill  b.ndMusk  Rat  Cove; 
2V2  M.  Leather  stocking  Falls;  3 M.  Three  Mile  or  Wild  Rose  Pointy  where 
Hetty  Hutter  landed.  Adjacent  is  Mohican  Glen.  From  Five- Mile  Point 
(Hotel,  $ 2)  a road  ascends  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Otsego  (2800  ft.;  view-tower), 
commanding  an  extensive  *View.  6 M.  Hutter's  Point.^  near  which  take 
place  the  final  scenes  of  the  story.  A white  buoy  in  the  lake  marks  the 
site  of  ‘Hutter’s  Castle’,  on  a sunken  island.  The  Steamboat  Landing  is 
about  1 M.  farther  on. 

An  electric  tramway  runs  from  Cooperstown  to  (15  M.)  Richfield  Springs 
(l>.  234),  and  numerous  other  walks  and  drives  may  be  made.  It  is  13  M. 
from  Cherry  Valley  and  20  M.  from  Sharon  Springs  (p.  201). 

82  M.  Oneonta  (1095  ft.),  with  railway-workshops  and  a trade 
in  hops;  99  M.  XJnadilla  {T)iq  Ontio,  $2Y2“3;  Hotel  Bishop,  $2), 
a pleasant  summer  - resort.  — 119  M.  Nineveh,  the  junction  of  a 
branch  to  Wilkes-Barre  (p.  284).  — 128  M.  Tunnel  Station,  where 
we  thread  a tunnel  Y2  long.  — 133  M.  Sanitaria  Springs,  with 
siilpho -phospliate  and  other  mineral  springs,  has  a huge  and  ad- 
mirably equipped  Hydropathic  Establishment  1^2"^  per  day,  from 
$ 7 a week). 

143  M.  Binghamton  (845  ft.),  see  p.  244. 


24.  The  Catskill  Mountains. 

The  chief  gateways  to  the  Catskill  Mts.  are  Kingston  (p.  195)  and  Cats- 
kill (p.  203),  both  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Hudson  and  both  reached 
from  New  York  by  Steamer  (R.  21a;  fares  $1,  $11/2),  by  West  Shore  Rail- 
road (R.  21c;  $ 1.76,  $ 2.18),  or  by  N.  Y.  C.  H.  R.  Railroad  (R.  21b)  and 
ferry  ($1.76,  $2.33).  Through-tickets  are  issued  on  these  routes  to  the 
chief  resorts  in  the  mountains  {e.g.  to  Catskill  Mt.  Ho.,  $2.75  to  $3.93),  and 
prompt  connections  are  made.  The  Mts.  may  be  approached  from  the  N.W. 
via  Oneonta  and  Stamford  (p.  209).  , 

The  "'Catskills,  the  Indian  Onti  Ora  or  ^Mts.  of  the  Sky',  are  an  out- 
lying  group  of  the  great  Appalachian  system,  running  parallel  with  the 
Hudson  for  about  12-15  M.,  at  a distance  of  8-9  M.  from  its  W.  bank.  They 
lie  mainly  in  Greene , Co.,  New  York,  and  cover  an  area  of  about  500sq.  M. 
Their  name  is  of  Dutch  origin  and  is  generally  referred  to  the  wild-cats 
that  infested  them,  though  this  explanation  is  doubtful  (kill  = stream, 
gorge).  Towards  the  E.  their  declivity  is  very  abrupt,  and  as  seen  from 
the  Hudson  they  appear  like  an  almost  vertical  wall  2()00-3000  ft.  high.  On 
the  other  sides  the  slopes  are  more  gradual.  Deep  ravines,  known  as 
Cloves’  (South  i!^frican  Dutch),  A^^oo/,  are  cut  into  many  of  the  mountains 


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Route.  203 


by  mountain-torrents.  The  highest  summits  are  Slide  Mt.  (4205  ft. ; p.  208) 

Hunter  Mt.  (4025  ft.  ^ p.  207).  An  additional  attraction  of  the  Catskills 
is  the  part  they  play  in  the  scant  legendary  lore  of  America  (comp,  below). 
Their  picturesque  scenery,  cool  and  healthy  atmosphere,  and  easy  access- 
ibility have  made  them  a favourite  summer-resort ^ and  numerous  good 
hotels  and  boarding-houses  (mostly  open  June- Sept.)  now  sprinkle  the 
entire  district  (see  below).  The  most  frequented  of  these  are  the  Kaaters- 
Tcill  Hotel  and  the  Gatskill  Mountain  House  (see  pp.  204,  2l5).  A glimpse  at 
the  chief  points  of  interest  may  be  obtained  in  a day  by  a round-trip  from 
Catskill  to  either  of  the  above  hotels  and  thence  via  Stony  Glove  and  the 
Kaater skill  Railr oad  to  Tanner sville^  Phoenicia^  and  Kingston  (or  in  the  reverse 
direction)  5 but  a stay  of  1-3  weeks  is  desirable  for  a closer  acquaintance 
with  the  mountains.  The  Catskill  railways  generally  cease  running  in 
winter.  Fair  trout-fishing  is  obtained  in  the  mountain-streams.  The  red 
sandstone  to  which  the  name  Catskill  has  been  attached  belongs  to  the 
latest  Devonian  formations  of  America. 

a.  From  Catskill  to  the  Catskill  Mountain  House  and  the  Hotel 
Kaaterskill. 

Catskill  (95  ft.  5 Prospect  Park  Hotels  with  view  of  the  Hudson, 
$3-4;  Grant  House,  1 M.  to  the  W.,  with  view,  $ 3-3V2;  !Saul- 
paugli,  Olenwood,  Smith  Ho.,  $2-3),  a village  with  5484  inhah.,  is 
hnely  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Hudson,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Catskill  Creek.  There  are  numerous  pleasant  walks  and  drives  in  the 
vicinity,  and  boating  and  fishing  may  be  enjoyed  on  the  two  rivers. 
It  is  a station  of  the  Hudson  steamers  (p.  190)  and  the  West 
Shore  R.  R.  (p.  196). 

Catskill  is  the  starting-point  of  the  narrow-gauge  Catskill 
Mountain  Railroad,  which  runs  hence  to  (13  M.)  Cairo (35-45  min.) 
and  to  (16  M.)  Palenville  (8/4  hr.).  The  railway  ascends  the  Catskill 
Creek,  passing  through  Austins  Glen  and  showing  the  remarkable 
upheavals  of  the  strata,  to  (8  M.)  South  Cairo  and  (10  M.)  Cairo 
Junction,  where  the  Cairo  branch  (3  M.)  diverges  to  the  right. 

Cairo  (345  ft.;  GolumUan,  $2-3;  Winter  Glove  Ho.,  $2;  Glen  Falls  Ho., 
4 M.  from  station,  $2)  is  an  unpretending  little  summer-resort,  commanding 
a good  view  of  the  Catskills. 

Beyond  Cairo  Junction  the  train  skirts  the  base  of  Cairo  Round 
Top  Mt.  IIY2  M.  Laurenceville.  — I3Y2M.  Mountain  House  Station, 
where  the  road  to  the  (41/4  M.)  Catskill  ML  House  (p.  204)  begins. 

The  ‘ Road  from  the  Mountain  House  Station  to  the  Mountain  House 
(474  M.)  ascends  very  rapidly,  and  good  walkers  can  accomplish  the 
distance  almost  as  fast  as  a carriage.  After  passing  through  (72  M.)  the 
toll-gate  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  we  turn  to  the  left  and  ascend  to 
Sleepy  Hollow,  the  scene  of  Rip  van  Winkle’s  famous  adventure,  and  to 
(1  M.)  the  Rip  van  Winkle  House  (1275  ft.).  A slab  of  rock  is  pointed  out 
as  the  actual  spot  of  his  twenty  years’  slumber ! Farther  on  the  road  toils 
up  the  ‘Dead  Ox  Hill’,  rounds  'Cape  Horn’,  passes  the  ‘Short  Level’,  ao'ain 
turns  abruptly  to  the  left,  climbs  ‘Featherbed  Hill’,  traverses  the  ‘Lono^ 
Level’,  pastes  the  top  of  the  Otis  Elevating  Railway(  see  below),  and  leads 
to  the  W.  or  rear  entrance  of  the  Gatskill  Mt.  Ho.  (see  p.  204). 

15  M.  Otis  Junction,  the  starting-point  of  the  Otis  Elevat- 
ing Railway,  which  leads  directly  to  Otis  Summit  in  10  min., 
ascending  1600  ft.  in  its  length  of  11/3  M.  (fare  75  c.).  The  top  of 
this  railway  is  only  100  yds.  from  the  Catskill  Mt.  House  (p.  204), 


204  Route  2i.  CATSKILL  MOUNTAIN  HOUSE.  The  Caiskill 


with  which  it  is  connected  by  a covered  walk.  It  reduces  the  time  of 
the  journey  from  Catskill  to  the  Mountain  Ho.  to  50  min.  (from  New 
York  4 hrs.). 

Otis  Summit  is  also  the  station  for  the  (1  M.)  Hotel  Kaaterskill  (p.  205). 

From  Otis  Summit  to  Tanneesville,  5V4  M.,  Catskill  & Tanncrsville 
Railway  in  Vs  hr.  — This  line,  which  practically  duplicates  the  Kaaterskill 
branch  of  the  Ulster  & Delaware  R.  R.  (see  p.  207),  has  stations  at  the 
(2  M.)  Laurel  House ^ (31/4  M.)  The  Antlers^  (372  M.)  Haines'  Corners  (for 
Twilight^  Sunset^  and  Santa  Cruz  Parks')^  and  (4^/4  M.)  Clum  Road.  — 5V'4  M. 
Tanner sville,  see  p.  20?. 

16  M.  Palenville  (Stony  Brook  Ho..,  $ 2-3;  Maple  Grove  Ho.., 
Pine  Grove  Ho..,  Drummond  Falls  Ho..,  $2^25  Palenville  Ho.., 
1 M.  from  the  station,  $ 2),  finely  situated  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Kaaterskill  Clove  (see  below),  lies  3 M.  from  the  Kaaterskill  Hotel. 
Palenville  is  much  frequented  by  artists,  and  many  pleasant  walks 
and  drives  may  be  made  from  it.  Coaches  run  hence  to  Haines'  Falls 
and  Tannersville  (p.  207 ; $ 1). 

Some  travellers  prefer  to  drive  all  the  way  from  Catskill  to  (12  M.) 
the  Mountain  House  or  the  (14  M.)  Kaaterskill  Hotel. 

The  ^Kaaterskill  Clove  is  a narrow  wooded  ravine,  like  the  ‘Notches’  of 
the  White  Mts.  (pp.  164,  167),  enclosed  by  South  Mountain  (see  below)  on  the 
right  and  High  Peak  (p.  205)  and  Round  Top  (p.  205)  on  the  left.  A rough 
road  ascends  through  the  Clove,  crossing  the  creek  1 M.  from  the  station. 
V3  M.  Artist's  Grotto  and  La  Belle  Falls.  A little  farther  on  are  two  land- 
slips. At  (1  M.)  Profile  Rock  we  cross  the  creek  (proiile  seen  by  looking 
back  from  the  bridge).  V4  M.  Fawn's  Leap;  1/4  M.  Buttermilk  Falls;  1/4  ^1* 
Bridge  over  Lake  Creek.  Here  we  may  either  turn  to  the  right  and  follow 
the  lateral  ravine  to  (1  M.)  the  Kaaterskill  Falls  or  take  the  path  up  the 
Clove  proper  to  (IV4  M.)  Haines'  Falls  (p.  203).  The  road  ascends  to  (lv4  M.) 
the  Haines'  Falls  House  (p.  2)8). 

The  *Road  from  Palenville  to  the  Hotel  Kaaterskill  (3  M.^  see 
above;  coach-fare  $172,  trunk  50  c.)  runs  from  the  station  to  the  W. 
through  the  village,  then  turns  to  the  right,  and  ascends  along  the  N.  side 
of  the  Kaaterskill  Clove  (see  above).  In  IV2  M.  we  cross  the  so-called  Gulf., 
with  the  Point  of  Rocks  and  Indian  Head  high  above  us  to  the  right,  and 
about  1/2  M.  farther  on  we  bend  back  on  our  course  and  proceed  for  some 
distance  to  the  E.,  climbing  towards  (V2  M.)  the  head  of  the  Gulf,  several 
hundred'  feet  above  the  point  where  we  crossed  it  below.  To  the  left 
diverges  the  Ledge  Drive  (p.  205).  In  1/2  M.  more  we  reach  the  hotel  (p.  205). 

The  Catskill  Mountain  House  (2250  ft. ; $ 3-4  per  day,  $ 14-25 
per  week,  acc.  to  room  and  season;  400  beds)  is  magnificently 
situated  on  the  ridge  of  Boulh  or  Pine  Orchard  Mountain  (2500  ft.). 
The] View  from  the  rocky  ledges  in  front  of  the  hotel  is  of  a 
unique  beauty  and  interest  (shown  by  search -light,  9-11  p m.). 
Golf-links  Jiave  been  laid  out  near  the  hotel. 

The  E.  escarpment  of  the  mountain  rises  so  abruptly  from  the  plain, 
that  the  effect  is  almost  as  if  we  were  leaning  out  of  the  car  of  a balloon 
or  over  the  battlements  of  a castle  2000  ft.  high.  The  plain  between  the 
mountains  and  the  Hudson,  10  M.  off,  is  spread  out  at  our  feet  like  a 
low-relief  map,  with  checkerboard  squares  of  fields,  patches  of  woodland, 
villages,  and  farm-houses.  Catskill  is  distinctly  seen  due  E.,  and  Athens 
(p.  19  L)  and  Hudson  (p.  193)  may  be  made  out  a little  more  to  the  N. 
The  moving  trains  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  are  curiously  distinct  and 
minute.  TheE.  background  is  formed  by  the  blue  Berkshire  Hills  (p.  174), 
over  which  the  shadowy  White  Mts.  (p.  158)  are  sometimes  visible. 

Walks.  By  following  the  road  leading  towards  North  Mt.  and  North 
Lake  and  taking  the  first  path  to  the  right,  we  soon  reach  (10  min.)  the 


Mountains. 


HOTEL  KAATERSKILL.  ^4.  Route.  205 


Artist's  Rock.,  on  the  E.  ledge  of  N.  Mt.  (view),  beyond  which  the  path 
ascends  some^  steps  and  reaches  (3  min.)  Prospect  Rock.,  which  commands 
a very  extensive  *View.  The  ledge-path  next  leads  to  (5  min.)  Sunset 
Rock.,  beyond  which  it  bends  to  the  left  to  (7  min.)  Jacob's  Ladder  and 
the  Bear's  Den  (*View).  The  ledge-path  ends  at  Newman's  Ledge  (view  of 
Sleepy  Hollow,  p.  203),  10-12  min.  beyond  the  Bear’s  Den.  — The  path 
to  the  left  at  the  fork,  5 min.  beyond  the  Bear’s  Den,  ascends  towards  the 
crest  of  North  Mountain  (3300  ft.),  a walk  round  which  takes  inall4-5hrs. 
The  path  crosses  the  '"Burnt  District'  to  (20  min.  from  Bear’s  Den)  the 
cavity  called  the  Cellar.  Here  we  bend  towards  the  left  and  walk  round 
the  crest  to  (1/2  hr.)  the  so-called  *First  Outlook.,  at  the  top  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  (10  min.)  the  Second  Outlook.  The  trail  descending  from  this  point 
through  the  trees  is  sometimes  a little  difficult  to  follow;  but  there  is 
little  danger  of  being  lost  if  the  general  direction  of  the  hotel  be  taken 
at  the  Outlook  and  followed  by  compass.  An  additional  help  in  case  of 
doubt  is  the  water-pipe  leading  to  the  hotel  (IV2-2  hrs.).  It  is  advisable 
not  to  try  this  walk  alone.  — By  following  the  path  to  the  left  at  the 
entrance  to  the  North  Mt.  walk,  passing  the  E.  end  of  North  Lake,  and 
ascending  along  the  stream,  we  reach  Ch  br.)  Mary's  Glen.,  with  small 
waterfalls.  We  may  return  by  crossing  the  stream  above  the  falls  and 
following  a path  leading  S.W.  to  (V4  hr.)  the  main  road,  which  we  reach 
at  the  Charcoal  Pit.,  1/3  M.  from  the  hotel. 

The  Catskill  Mt.  House  is  about  1 M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Kaaterskill 
Hotel  (see  below),  and  the  excursions  made  from  the  latter  (see  below)  can 
all  be  made  from  the  former  also. 

The  *Hotel  Kaaterskill  (2495  ft.  5 $4-5  per  day,  $21-25  per 
week;  1200  beds),  tbe  most  fashionable  resort  in  the  Catskills,  is  situ- 
ated on  one  of  the  highest  points  of  South  Mt.  (see  p.  204)  and  com- 
mands a view  little,  if  at  all,  inferior  to  that  from  the  Mountain  House 
(see  p.  204).  Immediately  to  the  S.W.  rise  High  Peak  (3660  ft.)  and 
Round  Top  (3470  ft.),  thickly  clad  with  timber  from  top  to  bottom, 
and  due  W.  is  Hunter  Mt.  (4025  ft.).  Kaaterskill  Station  (p.  208) 
lies  about  M.  to  the  N.W.,  at  the  end  of  South  Lake  (p.  208). 

Walks.  Most  of  the  paths,  roads,  and  points  of  interest  are  clearly 
indicated  by  sign-posts  and  arrows  painted  on  the  rocks. 

1.  To  the  Catskill  Mt.  House.,  I-IV4  M.  Different  paths,  indicated  by 
sign-posts,  begin  in  front  (E.)  and  to  theN.  of  the  hotel,  and  lead  via  the 
Fairy  Spring.,  the  Mossy  Path.,  the  Druid  Rocks.,  the  Lemon  Squeezer.,  and 
the  Ledge  Path.  The  last  skirts  the  E,  edge  of  the  mountain,  affording  fine 
views  of  the  Hudson  Valley,  the  best  from  the  so-called  (1/2  M.)  Grand 
View.  A short  digression  may  be  made  to  the  left  to  the  top  of  South 
Mountain  (2500  ft.;  *View).  — A pleasant  round  may  be  made  by  going 
via  the  Ledge  Path  and  returning  via  the  Druid  Bocks,  making  a com- 
plete circuit  of  South  Mt. 

2.  Palenville  Overlook.,  13/4  M.  The  path  leads  to  the  S.E.  froni  the  hotel. 
The  *Overlook  (1660  ft.)  commands  a fine  view  of  Kaaterskill  Clove  (p.  204). 

3.  Inspiration  Point  and  Sunset  Rock.,  1 M.  A path  beginning  at  the 

hotel-stables  (to  the  S.W.  of  the  hotel)  leads  through  low  wood,  crossing  a 
road,  to  Ck  M.)  a point  on  the  Ledge  Drive,  where  stands  a sign-post  in- 
dicating the  path  to  Inspiration  Point  ("Niew).,  overlooking  Kaaters- 

kill Clove.  Thence  we  follow  the  path  along  the  brink  of  the  Clove  to 
(V4  M.)  "Sunset  Bock  (2120  ft.),  which  commands  a magnificent  view  of 
the  Clove  and  of  the  tree-clad  mass  of  High  Peak  (see  above).  — We  may 
continue  this  walk  to  Kaaterskill  Falls  (p.  206),  either  by  the  paths  on  the 
level  of  the  rock  or  by  descending  the  ladder-steps  to  the  bottom  of  the 
Clove.  The  easiest  route  to  follow  is  the  path  to  the  extreme  right  (‘To  Hotel 
Kaaterskill’),  which  ascends  to  (5  min.)  the  Ledge  Drive.  We  follow  this 
road  to  the  left,  and  in  about  1 min.,  turning  twice  to  the  left,  reach  the 
Laurel  House  and  the  Falls  (p.  206). 


206  Route  24. 


OVERLOOK  MT. 


The  CatbMll 


4.  Laurel  Home  and  Kaaterskill  Falls,  1 M.  We  may  either  follow  the 
road  leading  totheS.W.  from  the  front  of  the  Hotel  and  joining  (8/4  M.)  the 
Ledge  Drive  (p.  205),  or  we  take  a path  leading  W.  from  the  Annex  to 
(4  min.)  an  old  ‘logging  road’,  which  leads  to  the  left  and  joins  the  Ledge 
Drive  near  the  Laurel  House.  — The  Laurel  House  (2065  ft.  $ 2V2-4  per  day, 
$15-25  per  week)  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  Kaaterskill  Falls,  300yds. 
from  the  railway-station  mentioned  at  p.  207.  — The  ^Kaaterskill  Falls, 
in  an  imposing  rocky  amphitheatre,  reached  by  a flight  of  steps  behind  the 
hotel  (adm.  25  c.),  are  260  ft.  in  height,  in  two  leaps  of  180  ft.  and  80  ft. 
In  dry  weather  the  water  is  dammed  up  at  the  head  of  the  falls  and  turned 
on  for  visitors  like  the  Lichtenhain  Waterfall  in  the  Saxon  Switzerland, 
A little  lower  down  are  the  Bastion  Falls  (40  ft.).  — A good  view  of  the 
Falls  is  obtained  from  Prospect  Rock,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Clove,  reached 
by  a path  (1/2  M.)  from  the  Laurel  House. 

5.  To  Haines''  Falls,  21/2-81/2  M.  The  most  direct  route  is  by  a forest 
path  from  Prospect  Rock  (see  above),  which  comes  out  on  {iM.)  Feather- 
bed Lane  (see  below),  about  1/2  M.  from  the  Falls.  This  route  is  a little 
difficult  to  find  unaided,  but  the  following  is  quite  distinct.  To  the  Laurel 
House,  as  above,  1 M.  Hence  we  follow  the  road  to  theW.,  crossing  both 
railways.  On  reaching  the  (1/2  M.)  main  road  we  follow  it  to  the  left  for 
ii/4  M.  We  then  descend  to  the  left  by  Featherbed  Lane  (also  crossing  the 
railways)  to  the  (1/2  M.)  bottom  of  the  Clove,  turn  to  the  right,  and  reach 
the  (1/4  M.)  Haines’'  Falls  House  (p.  208),  where  a placard  indicates  the  way 
to  the  Falls  (p.  208). 

Other  short  walks  may  be  made  to  (1/2  M.)  the  Boulder  and  to  the 
points  mentioned  in  connection  with  the  Mountain  House  at  p.  204. 

The  ascent  of  North  Mt.  (p.  205)  takes  about  1 hr.  — That  of  High 
Peak  (3660  ft.)  takes  I1/2-21/2  hrs.  from  the  Haines’  Falls  House  (p.  208) 
and  is  rather  toilsome,  but  the  view  is  very  fine. 

Longer  Excursions,  by  railway  or  carriage,  may  be  made  to  Tanner sville 
and  Onteora  Park  (p.  207;  5-8  M.),  Stony  Glove  (p.  207),  Catskill  (p.  203), 
Sleepy  Hollow  (p.  203),  Overlook  Mt.  (see  below),  Plattekill  Clove  (p.  207),  etc. 


b.  From  Kingston  (Rondout)  to  the  Hotel  Kaaterskill. 

48  M.  Ulster  and  Delaware  Railroad  in  2^/2  hrs.  (fare  $ 1.41).  This 
line  skirts  the  S.  and  W.  sides  of  the  Catskills.  Through-carriages  run 
by  this  route  from  New  York  and  Philadelphia  to  Tannersville,  Haines's 
Corners,  the  Laurel  House,  the  Hotel  Kaaterskill,  and  many  other  points. 
The  Day  Line  steamers  connect  directly  with  the  railway  at  Kingston  Point. 

The  regular  terminus  of  the  railway  is  at  Rondout  (p.  195),  but 
the  track  has  been  extended  to  Kingston  Point,  the  steamboat 
landing  2 M.  to  the  E.  After  leaving  Rondout  the  train  stops  at 
(3  M.  from  Kingston  Point)  the  Union  Station  in  Kingston  (p.  195). 
The  line  ascends  gradually  through  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Eso- 
pus.  9 M.  Stony  Hollow  (410  ft).  — 10  M.  West  Hurley  (530  ft) 
is  the  starting-point  of  the  road  (coach  $ 1.25)  to  (9  M.)  the  top 
of  Overlook  Mt.  (3150  ft),  near  which  stands  the  Overlook  Mt. 
House  ($3  j 2980  ft ; 300  beds),  a favourite  resort,  the  *Yiew  from 
which,  embracing  the  Hudson,  the  Highlands  (p.  189),  and  the 
Catskills,  is  considered  by  some  authorities  the  finest  in  the  dis- 
trict. Mead's  Mountain  House  ($  2),  about  halfway  up  the  mountain 
(7  M.  from  the  railway;  stage  $ 1),  is  well  spoken  of.  Quarters  may 
also  be  obtained  at  Aaron  Riseley’s  farm,  at  Woodstock,  4 M.  from 
West  Hurley  station.  — Near  (20  M.)  Shokan  (535  ft.)  High  Point  Mt. 
(3100ft.)  is  conspicuous  to  the  left.  The  train  now  turns  to  the  N., 


Mountains, 


TANNERSYILLE. 


24.  Eoute.  207 


disclosing,  to  the  left,  a fine  semicircle  of  mountains,  sending  off 
radiating  spurs  to  a common  centre  (the  two  most  to  the  right  are 
Mt,  Cornell^  3680  ft.,  and  Mt.  Wittenberg^  3775  ft.).  Near  (22  M.) 
Boiceville  we  twice  cross  the  Esopus. — Beyond  (26  M.)  Mt.  Pleasant 
(700  ft.)  the  valley  contracts ; to  the  left  rises  Panther  Mt.  (3825  ft.). 
Indian  Head  (3580  ft.)  and  other  high  mountains  are  seen  to  the  right. 

28  M.  Phoenicia  (800  ft. ; Tremper  House.^  with  fine  view,  $ 3-4; 
Martin,  near  the  rail,  station,  $2),  the  junction  of  the  Stony 
Clove  Railroad  (see  below),  is  pleasantly  situated  and  a good  centre 
for  excursions  (to  the  top  of  Mt.  Wittenberg.,  Stony  Clove.,  Woodland 
Valley,  Big  Indian  Valley.,  etc.).  — We  now  leave  the  main  line 
and  ascend  by  the  Stony  Clove  branch  (views  to  the  left)  through 
^Stony  Clove,  a beautiful  wooded  ravine  between  Mt.  Sheridan 
(2490  ft.)  and  Hunter  Mt.  (4025  ft.)  on  the  left  and  Mt.  Tremper 
(3840  ft.)  and  Stony  Mt.  (3855  ft.)  on  the  right.  — 30  M.  Chichester, 
with  a chair  factory ; 33  M.  Lanesville,  with  a fine  view  (left)  of 
the  Diamond  Notch,  Hunter  Mt.,  and  Big  West  Kill  Mt.  (3900  ft.; 
to  the  W.).  To  the  left  are  deep  ravines  between  the  spurs  of 
Hunter  Mt.  Soon  after  passing  (36  M.)  Edgewood  (1785  ft.),  we 
reach  the  top  of  the  pass  (2070  ft.)  and  begin  to  descend.  — 40  M. 
KaatersUll  Junction  (1700  ft.),  whence  the  Kaaterskill  Division 
diverges  to  the  right  (through-cars). 

The  Hunter  branch  of  the  railway  goes  on  to  (43M.)  Hunter  (1645ft.: 
West  End  Hotel,  $21/2;  St.  Charles,  $2-4;  Prospect  Ho.,  $2;  Hunter  Ho.,  $2-3; 
Central,  $ 2),  close  to  the  base  of  the  ColoneVs  Chair  (3165  ft.)  and  2 M.  to 
the  N.  of  Hunter  Mt.  (see  above),  both  of  which  summits  may  be  ascended 
hence.  Fine  drives  may  be  taken  to  the  Overlook  Mt.  Ho.  (14  M.)  and  the 
Hotel  Kaaterskill  (11  M.);  and  nearer  points  of  interest  are  Mossij  Brook 
(1  31.),  Onteora  Park  (see  below),  and  Stony  Clove. 


The  Kaaterskill  Railroad  ascends  towards  the  E.  — 43  M. 
Tannersville  (1860  ft. ; Hotel  Martin,  $ 2-3,  open  all  the  year ; 
Waverley,  Blythewood,  Fabian  Ho.,  Campbell  Ho.,  occupies 

one  of  the  most  conveniently  central  situations  in  the  Catskills. 

Clum  Hill  (2300  ft.),  3/4  M.  to  the  S.,  easily  ascended  in  Vzhr.,  affords 
a good  view,  including  the  Kaaterskill  Falls  (p.206;  rail,  station,  see  p.  204). 
— About  2 M.  to  the  N.  is  Onteora  Park  (Bear  & Fox  Inn),  a cottage  colony 
belonging  to  a club  which  includes  several  well-known  writers,  artists,  and 
musicians.  The  enclosure  is  private,  but  visitors  will  generally  be  allowed 
ascend  to  (20  min.)  the  top  of  Onteora  Mt. 
(2330  ft.),  the  *View  from  which  includes  High  Peak,  Round  Top,  the  Kaater- 
skill  Hotel,  Twin  3It.,  Sugar  Loaf,  Plateau  Mt.,  Hunter  Mt.,  Round  Hill 
Thomas  Cole  3It.,  Black  Dome,  and  Black  Head.  — Onteora  3It.  and  its 
Mt.  are  separated  by  the  Parker  Notch  from  Star  Rock 
(2515  ft. ; to  the  W.),  another  good  point  of  view.  — The  Black  Dome  (3990  ft.) 
about  3 M.  to  the  N.N.E.^  of  Parker  Mt.,  affords  a fine  panorama  of  the 
valley  in  which  Tannersville  lies  and  the  mountains  enclosing  it.  Slide 
Mt.  (4205  ft.;  p.f208),  the  highest  of  the  Catskills,  is  seen  to  the  right 
over  the  shoulder  of  Hunter  Mt.  — To  the  S.  of  Clum  Hill  (see  above) 
extends  the  fine  *Plattekill  Clove  (road),  between  Round  Top  and  High 
(P-  2O0)  to  the  left  and  Sugar  Loaf  or  Mink  Mt.  (3782  ft.),  Twin  Mt. 
(3674  ft.),  and  Indian  Head  (3585  ft.)  to  the  right.  About  6 M from 
Tannersville  are  the  ^Hlattekill  Falls  (60  ft.),  near  which  is  the  PlaUelill 
Mt.  House.  A road  (*Views)  ascends  to  the  right  to  (6  M.)  the  Overlook 


208  Route  24. 


HAINES’  CORNERS. 


The  Catskill 


Mi.  JBotise  (p.  206).  — About  3 M.  to  the  S.  of  Tannersville,  on  the  slope 
of  Sugar  Loaf  Ml.,  is  Elka  Park.,  the  property  of  the  Lieder-Kranz  CL.  K.’) 
of  New  York,  with  a nice  club-house.  This  is  adjoined  by  the  Schoharie 
Manor.,  a similar  association,  with  a large  club-house  in  the  Colonial 
style.  — Among  other  points  within  easy  reach  of  Tannersville  Haines' 
Falls  (see  below),  Kaaterskill  Falls.,  Clove,  and  Hotel  (pp.  204,  205),  and 
Stony  Clove  (p.  207). 

From  Tannersville  to  Otis  Summit  Station  by  the  Catskill  & Tanners- 
ville Railway,  see  p.  204. 

Beyond  Tannersville  tlie  train  soon  reaches  (45  M.)  Haines’ 
Corners  (1920  ft. ; Haines'  Falls  Ho.,  Olen  Park  Ho.,  Lox  Hurst, 
$ 2),  the  nearest  station  to  (V2  M.)  Haines'  Falls  (see  below). 

■'Haines'  Falls,  at  the  head  of  Kaaterskill  Clove  (p.  204),  consist  of 
two  main  leaps,  150-160  ft.  and 80  ft.  high,  with  other  plunges  lower  down, 
making  in  all  a descent  of  475  ft.  in  1/4  M.  The  water  is  dammed  up  in 
dry  weather  and  the  sluices  opened  for  visitors  (fee  25c.).  The  environ- 
ment of  the  falls  is  very  picturesque.  The  bridge  above  the  falls  leads 
to  Twilight  or  Haines''  Falls  Park  (Twilight  Rest,  Lodge  End  Inn,  Squirrel 
Inn,  $2-3),  another  cottage-colony  like  Onteora  Park  (p.  207).  Adjacent 
are  Sunset  Park  (Inn,  $ 4),  and  Santa  Cruz  Park  (Inn,  $ 2-3).  About  M. 
to  the  E.  of  Haines's  Corner  station  is  The  Antlers  Hotel  ($  3-31/2),  with  a 
rail,  station  of  its  own  (p.  204).  — From  Haines'  Falls  to  the  Kaaterskill 
Falls  and  Hotel,  see  pp.  204,  206. 

The  train  now  traverses  wood  to  (47  M.)  Laurel  House  Station 
(2065  ft.),  300yds.  from  the  Laurel  House  and  the  Kaaterskill  Falls 
(see  p.  206).  The  falls  are  seen  to  the  right  just  before  we  reach 
the  station,  — 48  M.  Kaaterskill  Station  (2145  ft. ; carriages  and 
stages  meet  all  trains) , situated  at  the  W.  end  of  South  Lake,  a 
pretty  little  sheet  of  water.  The  road  to  the  (^/4  M.)  Hotel  Kaaterskill 
crosses  the  bridge  to  the  S.  and  leads  through  wood.  The  Catskill 
Mountain  House  is  1 M.  distant  (comp.  p.  204). 

c.  From  Rondout  (Kingston)  to  Oneonta. 

108  M.  Ulster  and  Delaware  Railroad  in  41/2-43/4  hrs.  (fare  $ 3.24; 
parlor-car  50  c.).  Through-cars  from  New  York,  comp.  p.  206. 

From  Kingston  Point  (Rondout)  to  (28  M.)  Phoenicia,  see  p.  207. 
To  the  left,  beyond  Phoenicia,  rises  Mt.  Garfield  (2650  ft.).  From 
(33  M.)  Shandaken  (1060  ft. ; Palace,  $ 3 ; Clarendon)  coaches  run 
through  the  Deep  Notch  to  West  Kill  and  Lexington,  — 37  M.  Big 
Indian  (1210ft.;  Joslyn  Ho.,  2 M.  up  the  valley,  $2;  small  inn 
at  the  station)  lies  at  the  mouth  of  Big  Indian  Valley,  with  the 
headwaters  of  the  Esopus. 

This  is  the  starting-point  for  a visit  to  (11  M.)  Slide  Mt.  (see  below). 
A road  ascends  Big  Indian  Valley  (stages  to  Winnisook  Lodge  in  summer, 
fare  75  c.),  with  Big  Indian  ov  Balsam  Mt.  (3600  ft.)  to  the  right  and  Panther 
Mt.  (3825  ft.)  to  the  left.  Several  small  hotels  are  passed.  5 M.  Dutcher^s 
Panther  Mt.  House  (2000  ft. ; unpretending,  $ I1/2),  the  nearest  hotel  to  Slide 
Mt.,  where  a guide  may  be  obtained.  The  road  ends,  3 M.  farther  on,  at 
Winnisook  Lodge,  a hunting-club  and  preserve.  Hence  a path  (steep  at  first, 
then  easy;  1-2  hrs.)  ascends  to  the  left  to  the  top  of  Slide  Mt.  (4205  ft.), 
the  highest  of  the  Catskills.  The  *View  from  the  tower  here  is  very  ex- 
tensive, embracing  about  70  peaks  in  the  Catskills,  Mt.  Everett  in  Massa- 
chusetts (due  E.;  p.  175),  etc.  Slide  Mt.  is  included  in  a large  State 
Reservation.  — A road  leads  across  from  the  head  of  Big  Indian  Valley 
into  (41/2  M.)  Woodland  Valley,  near  Phoenicia  (p.  207). 


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STAMFORD. 


24.  Route.  209 


The  gradient  here  is  very  steep.  40  M.  Pine  Hill  (1660  ft. ; Rip 
van  Winkle  Ho..,  Cornish  Ho..,  Winterton,  Brewerton.,  Alpine.,  $ 2^2 ; 
Ulster j $2-3;  Mountain  inn),  pleasantly  situated  below  the  rail- 
way to  the  right.  — 42  M.  Grand  Hotel  Station  (1885  ft.)  is  the 
culminating  point  of  the  line,  on  the  watershed  between  the  Hudson 
and  the  Delaware.  To  the  right  stands  the  *Grand  Hotel  ($4^/2),  one 
of  the  most  fashionable  resorts  of  the  Catskills,  finely  situated  on 
the  slope  of  Summit  Hill  (2500  ft.).  It  commands  a splendid  *View, 
including  Belle  Ayr,  Big  Indian,  and  Slide  Mts.  Adjacent  are  several 
smaller  hotels. 

The  train  now  descends,  making  a bend  to  the  left,  to  (45  M.) 
Fleischmanns  or  Griffins  Corners  (1515ft.),  which  lies  like  a toy- 
town  in  the  valley  to  the  right.  49  M.  Arkville  (1345  ft. ; Hoff- 
mann Ho. ; Commercial  Ho.,  $1^25  Ackerley  Ho.,  at  Margaretville, 
1 M.  from  the  station,  $ 21/2).  W©  now  descend  along  the  E.  branch 
of  the  Delaware.  — 60  M.  Roxhury{ib^Q  ft.).  — 66  M.  Grand  Gorge 
(1570  ft.),  between  Bald  Mt.  (left)  and  Irish  ML  (right). 

A stage  runs  hence  to  (5  M.  ; fare  50  c.)  Prattsville.,  with  the  curious  Pratt 
Rocks.,  carved  into  fantastic  shapes  and  painted  white  by  old  Col.  Pratt. 

72  M.  South  Gilhoa  (1845  ft.). 

75  M.  Stamford  (1765  ft. ; The  Rexmere^  from  $ 4 ; Churchill  Hall, 
$3;  New  Grant  Ho.,  $2-3;  Mountain  View  House,  $21/2;  Hotel 
Hamilton,  Westholm,  $2),  pleasantly  situated  near  the  source  of  the 
W.  branch  of  the  Delaware,  is  a quiet  and  inexpensive  summer- 
resort.  The  favourite  excursion  is  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Utsayantha 
(3365  ft. ; view ; 2^/2  M.  by  road). 

7SM. Hobart  (1615  ft.;  Commercial,  $ 1V2"2)  ; 87  M.  Bloomville 
(1550  ft.;  Commercial  Ho.,  Palmer  Ho.,  $ lV2)i  101  M.  Daven- 
port Centre  (1220  ft.).  — 104  M.  West  Davenport  (1180  ft.),  the 
junction  of  the  Cooperstown  and  Charlotte  Valley  R.  R. 

Fkom  West  Davenport  to  Cooperstown,  21  M.,  railway  in  I-I1/2  hr. 
This  line  traverses  the  beautiful  Charlotte  Valley.  — 5 M.  Cooperstown  Junc- 
tion, and  thence  to  (21  M.)  Cooperstown,  see  p.  201. 

At  (108  M.)  Oneonta  (1095  ft.)  we  join  the  line  from  Albany  to 
Binghamton  (see  p.  202). 

Numerous  other  points  on  the  N.  and  W.  sides  of  the  Catskills  are 
frequented  as  summer-resorts. 

25.  The  Adirondack  Mountains. 

Approaches.  The  principal  gatewavs  to  the  Adirondack  Mts.  are 
Utica  (p.  233),  Plattshurg  (p.  185),  Port  'Kent  (p.  231),  Westport  (p.  214), 
Malone  (p.  224),  and  Saratoga  (p.  225);  and  in  the  following  description  it 
will  be  most  convenient  to  follow  the  routes  leading  from  these  points 
into  the  heart  of  the  mountains.  The  Adirondacks  are  within  8-12  hrs.  of 
New  York  by  railway  (comp.  UR.  20b,  20cl),  and  the  additional  time  re- 
quired to  go  from  the  nearest  railway-station  to  any  point  mentioned  below, 
can  be  easily  calculated  from  the  data  in  the  text.  Plattshurg  is  12  hrs. 
from  Boston  via  Burlington  (comp.  R,.  15a).  Fare  from  New  York  to  Utica 
$ 5,  parlor-car  $ IV2,  sleeper  $ 2;  to  Plattshurg  ^S,  parlor-car  $2,  sleeper  $ 2; 
to  Pori  Kent,  $7.60;  to  Westport,  $6.81;  to  Saratoga,  $4.20;  to  North 
Creek  (p.  224),  $ 5.95.  y , 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


14 


210  Route  26.  ADIRONDACK  MOUNTAINS. 

General  Features.  The  ’^Adirondack  Mountains,  in  the  N.  part  of 
the  State  of  New  York,  stretch  from  near  Canada  on  the  N.  to  near  the 
Mohawk  River  on  the  S.  (120  M.),  and  from  Lakes  George  and  Champlain 
on  the  E to  an  indefinite  and  irregular  line  on  the  W.  (ca.  oO  M.),  cover- 
in-  an  area  of  about  8-10,000  sq.  M.  The  mountains,  which  run  in  five 
nakllel  ranges  from  S.W.  toN.E.,  rise  from  an  elevated  plateau  and  many 
of  them  are  over  or  nearly  5000  ft.  high.  The  highest  range,  or  Adiron- 
nroner  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the  district;  and  the  loftiest  peaks  are 
“ ■'  

Or  ay  Peak  (4900  f , , 

The  whole  of  the  district  (the  l , . x.-  . x-n 

the  highest  peaks,  is  densely  covered  with  forest,  much  of  which  is  still 
vir-in  and  almost  unexplored.  Lumbering  is  carried  on  very  extensively, 
and  huge  quantities  of  spruce,  hemlock,  and  other  timber  are  annually 
sent  down  to  the  Hudson  and  St.  Lawrence.  The  geological  formations 
of  the  Adirondacks  are  mainly  granitic  and  other  primary  rocks,  in 
the  valleys  lie  more  than  1000  lakes,  varying  in  size  from  a few  acres 
to  20  sq.  M.  (Schroon  Lake)  and  in  height  above  the  sea  from  807 ft  (Schroon 
Lake)  to  4320  ft.  ( Tear  of  the  Clouds).  The  Hudson  River  rises  in  the  Tear  of 
the  Clouds  (p  219),  and  the  Raquette,  Saranac,  Ausalle,  and  numerous  other 
rivers  and  streams  connect  the  labyrinth  of  lakes.  This  combination  of 
mountain,  lake,  and  forest  is,  perhaps,  unrivalled  elsewhere,  and  the  scen- 
ery is  of  great  and  varied  attraction.  The  fauna  of  the  district  includes 
catamounts  or  ‘panthers’  {Felis  Concolor;  rare),  black  bears,  wild -cats, 
numerous  deer,  foxes,  otters,  badgers,  rabbits,  black  eagles,  hawks,  loons, 
wild  ducks,  partridges,  herons,  etc. ; while  the  lakes  and  streams  are  well 
stocked  with  trout  and  bass.  There  are  no  rattlesnakes  or^her  venomous 
serpents.  — A movement  is  on  foot  to  set  apart  about  4000  sq.  M. 
Adirondacks  as  a State  Park  like  the  Yosemite  (p.  574),  but  much  of  this 
ts  still  in  private  hands.  , j-  ^ 

Resorts.  The  most  frequented  regions  include  the  district  ot  the 
Saranac  and  St.  Regis  Lakes  (pp.  213,  212),  Lake  Placid  (p.  2l0),  and  Keene 
Valley  (p.  216),  all  of  which  contain  numerous  hotels  s^inmer-camps^ 
Since  the  opening  of  the  Raquette  Lake  Kailway  (see  p.  221),  the  beautitul 
Blue  Mt.  and  Raquette  Lake  region  (p.  222)  has  also  become  easily  accessible. 
The  less  mountainous  districts  to  the  W.  are  rarely  penetrated  by  visitors 
except  in  search  of  sport.  v 

A fair  general  idea  of  the  attractions  of  the  Adirondacks  may  be  ob- 
tained by  the  following  tour.  From  Plattshurg  (p.  185)  to  Pcml  Smith  s 
(d  212);  thence,  via  the  St.  Regis  and  Saranac  Lakes,  to  Saranac  Village  and 
Lake  Placid,  as  described  at  pp.  212-215;  from  Lake  Placid  to 
Lodge  (p.219);  thence  to  Summit  Rock  in  the  Indian  Pass  (p.  220)  and  back, 
from  Adirondack  Lodge  to  Keene  Valley  (p.  216)  either  by  ^^ad  or  (pre- 
ferable for  good  walkers)  over  Mt.  Marcy  (p.  220);  thence  to  Elizabeth- 
town (p.  215)  and  Westport  (p.  214).  This  tour  may  be  accomplished  in 
8-10  davs.  Those  who  have  longer  time  may  add  the  Twpper,  Pong,  Ragwe^g, 
and  Blue  Mountain  Lakes  in  the  ways  suggested  at  pp.  213,  221-22^. 

Sport.  Deer,  which  are  the  chief  object  of  the  Adirondack  sportsman, 
are  generally  killed  by  ‘Still-hunting’.  The  somewhat  unsportsmanlike 
practice  of  driving  them  into  the  water  by  hounds  and  shooting  them 
from  a boat  and  ‘jack-hunting’  (with  a light  at  night)  are  now  prohibited. 
The  State  Game  Laws,  which  the  visitor  should  study  carefully,  inapose 
stringent  limitations  on  the  indiscriminate  massacre  of  the  deer,  and  there 
are  now  various  reservations  (comp.  pp.  217,  220)  in  which  tlm  game  is 
strictly  preserved.  An  occasional  shot  at  a bear  may  be  had  in  the  remoter 
recesses.  The  shooting-  of  Partridges  (ruffed  grouse,  Bonasa  umhtllus)  is 
carried  on  with  the  aid  of  dogs.  Good  Fishing  is  obtained  in  many  ot  the 
lakes  and  ponds.  The  intending  sportsman  should  put  fijmself  at  once 
into  communication  with  the  local  talent.  His  outfit  should  be  as  plain, 
strong,  and  limited  in  extent  as  possible.  Comp,  also  p.  xxvi. 

Camping  is  one  of  the  chief  features  of  Adirondack  life;  the  camps 
varying  from  the  luxurious  permanent  ‘Camp’  of  the  regul^  visitor  down 
to  the  makeshift  lean-to’s  of  the  sportsman.  Camping  Parties  are  tre- 


OHATEAUGAY  LAKES. 


25.  Route.  211 


quently  orpnized,  and,  with  good  guides,  a cook,  and  efficient  equip- 
ments, aftord  a very  pleasant  variation  of  ordinary  summer  pleasures. 

— Flies  and  mosquitoes  are  troublesome  in  June  and  July. 

. ^9  be  found  at  all  the  chief  resorts,  and  the  regular  charge 

IS  3 3 a day,  which  includes  the  use  of  their  boats  and  cooking  and  fable 
ware.  Their  keep  is  also  paid  by  the  traveller.  When  a guide  is  dis- 
missed at  a distance  from  his  home,  he  expects  the  full  daily  fee  and 
allowance  for  food  on  his  return-journey.  For  short  trips  one  guide  and 
boat  can  take  two  persons,  but  for  longer  expeditions  there  should  be  a 
guide  to  each  traveller.  The  boats  are  small  and  light,  so  that  they  are 
easily  transported  over  the  ‘carries'  between  the  lakes  on  the  guide’s  shoul- 
ders. When  horses  are  used  for  the  carries  the  employer  pays  for  the 
transportation.  Nothing  but  small  hand-baggage  can  be  taken  in  the  boats. 

— The  Adirondack  Guides'  Association^  organized  in  1891,  issues  certificates 
and  badges  to  its  members.  In  the  absence  of  a graduated  tariff  the 
same  fee  is  demanded  for  a short  walk  as  for  a severe  day’s  work.  ’ The 
Brown's  Tract  Ouides'  Association  (for  the  W.  part  of  the  Adirondacks)  the 
headquarters  of  which  are  at  Boonville  (p.  23i),  was  incorporated  in  i9(X). 

The  Hotels  of  the  Adirondacks  are  generally  comfortable,  and  some 
of  the  larger  ones  may  even  be  termed  luxurious.  Prices  vary  greatly 
according  to  the  style  of  the  house  and  its  situation. 

Expenses.  The  expenses  of  a rapid  tour  through  the  Adirondacks 
are  apt  to  be  somewhat  high,  as  the  guide’s  fee  ($  3)  and  keep  ($  I-IV2) 
have  to  be  added  to  the  traveller’s  personal  expenses  ($3-5).  Camping 
and  sporting  parties  live,  of  course,  much  more  cheaply  than  hotel-guests! 

The  information  in  the  following  pages  will  suffice  for  a rapid  tour 
through  the  Adirondacks,  but  those  who  contemplate  a prolonged  stay  or 
shooting  and  camping  parties  should  procure  the  guidebook  of  S.  R. 
Stoddard  of  Clen  Falls,  N.  Y.  (with  maps^  price  25  c.),  which  is  revised 
annually  and  contains  details  of  routes,  outfit,  and  supplies.  The  best 
available  map  is  also  published  by  Stoddard  ($  1). 


a.  From  Plattsburg  to  St.  Regis,  Tapper,  Saranac,  and  Placid 
Lakes. 

1^82  M.  Chateadoay  Branch  of  Delaware  & Hudson  R.  R.  to  (73  M.) 
Saranac  Lake  in  372-4  hrs.  (fare  $3;  from  New  York  $ 8.8'J) : thence  to 
(9M.)  Lake  Placid  in  V2  hr.  (fare  $1;  from  New  York  $ 9.80).  Through 
sleeping  & parlor-cars  from  New  York. 

Plattsburg^  see  p.  I80.  The  train  passes  the  TJ.  8.  Barracks  (ig.  185) 
and  runs  to  the  W.  through  the  valley  of  the  Saranac.  It  crosses 
the  river  before  and  after  (^12  M.)  CadyvilLe  and  then  ascends  to  the 
right,  leaving  the  river.  Beyond  (17  M.)  Dannemora  (1810  ft),  with 
Clinton  Prison,  we  make  a wide  sweep  to  the  left,  round  Johnson 
Mt.  To  the  left  is  Lyon  Mt.  (3810  ft.).  — 28  M.  Chazy  Lake 
(1500  ft.;  Chazy  Lake  Ho.,  $2t/2-4;  steamboat  from  station  50  c.), 
at  the  S.  end  of  Chazy  Lake  (4  M.  long,  1 M.  wide;  trout-fishing). 

From  (34  M.)  Lyon  Mountain,  an  iron-mining  village,  coaches 
run  to  (31/2  M.)  Ralph's  ($  3 a day ; fare  75  c.)  and  to  the  (41/4  M.) 
Chateaugay  Hotel  ($  3)  and  Merrill's  ($2-21/25  fare  75  c.),  on  the 
E.^  side  of  Upper  Chateaugay  Lake  (4  M.  by  1 M.).  A small  steamer 
plies  on  the  Chateaugay  Lakes  and  a coach  runs  from  the  N.  end 
of  the  Lower  Lake  (31/2  M.  x ^/^  M.)  to  (6  M.)  Chateaugay  Station, 
on  the  Rutland  R.  R.  — The  railway  now  bends  to  the  S.  (left), 
affording  a good  view  of  Chateaugay  Lake  to  the  right.  54  M.  Loon 
Lake  Station,  at  the  N.  end  of  Loon  Lake  (2  M.  long),  connects  by 

14* 


212  Route  25.  ST.  REGIS  LAKE  HOUSE.  Adirondack 


stage  (75  c.)  with  (272  M.)  Loon  Lake  House  ($  4-5),  at  the  S.  end. 

To  the  right  are  Loon  Lake  Mt,  and  Long  Fond.  At  this  point  our 
line  runs  parallel  with  the  Adirondacks  Division  of  the  IS.  Y.  C.  & 

H.  R.  R.  R.  (see  p.  221).  — 61  M.  Onchiota.  — 66  M.  Blooming  dale 
(New  St.  Armand,  2 M.  from  the  station,  $4)  is  the  nearest  station 
on  this  line  for  Paul  Smith's,  7 M.  to  the  W.  (sandy,  uninteresting 
road;  stage  75  c.;  see  below).  — 73  M.  Saranac  Lake  (see  p.213). 

76  M.  Ames  Mills;  77  M.  Ray  Brook  (Hotel,  $ 3);  81  M.  Lyons.  — 

82  M.  Lake  Placid  (see  p.  215).  The  station  lies  about  1 M.  from  the 
S.  end  of  the  lake  (carr.  fare  to  most  of  the  hotels  25  c. ; trunk  25  c.). 

The  St.  Regis  Lake  House,  known  as  Paul  (properly  Apollos) 
Smith's,  a hotel  (500  beds;  $4-5  a day,  $21-30  a week)  on  the  N. 
bank  of  the  Lower  St.  Regis  Lake  (1620ft.;  2 M.  x 1 M.),  is  one  of 
the  most  frequented  resorts  in  the  district  and  may  be  made  the 
starting-point  for  a guide-boat  tour  of  the  N.  Adirondack  lakes.  It  is 
only  4 M.  from  Paul  Smith's  Station  on  the  Adirondack  & St.  Lawrence 
Division  of  the  N.  Y.  C.  & H.  R.  R.  R.  (see  p.  224).  Both  the  St.  Regis 
Lakes  are  surrounded  by  numerous  camps,  and  good  fishing  and 
shooting  are  obtained  in  the  neighbourhood.  Near  Paul  Smith’s  is 
the  large  Sanitarium  Gabriel,  managed  by  Sisters  of  Mercy. 

The  following  *Round  Trip  is  frequently  made  from  Paul 
Smith’s,  and  affords  an  excellent  idea  both  of  the  attractions  of  the 
Adirondacks  and  of  the  ordinary  methods  of  travelling. 

The  circuit  is  about  40-45  M.,  and  3 days  should  be  allowed  for  it, 
though  more  may  profitably  be  spent,  especially  if  any  digressions  are 
made.  Those  who  make  the  round  trip  quickly  should  engage  their  guide 
and  boats  for  the  whole  journey^  others  may  hire  from  place  to  place 
(comp.  p.  211).  The  guides  should  be  expressly  instructed  to  go  by  the 
distinctly  preferable  ‘Seven  Carry  Route’,  as  otherwise  they  will  select 
the  ‘Big  Clear  Route’,  on  which  two  horse-carries  ($  1 and  $ IV2)  save 
them  some  work  and  add  to  the  tourist’s  expenses.  If  desired,  heavy 
baggage  may  be  sent  to  Saranac  Village  by  railway. 

Leaving  Paul  Smith’s , we  cross  the  Lower  St.  Regis  Lake  by 
boat  (1/2  M.) ; row  to  (3/4  M.)  Spitfire  Pond;  cross  this  pond  (V2  M.), 
and  row  to  the  (V2  M.)  Upper  St,  Regis  Lake  (1625  ft.),  which  we  j 
cross  to  (2  M.)  its  S.  end.  To  the  W.  rises  St.  Regis  Mt,  (2890  ft.). 

Here  begins  the  carry  to  (IV2  ^*5  le®  horse  $ 1)  Clear  Lake  ( Big  ■ 
Clear"),  a pretty  little  lake,  well  stocked  with  fish,  on  the  N.  bank  of  I 
which  stands  Rice's  Lake  Clear  Hotel  ($3;  well  spoken  of)-  Clear  Lake  is  ; 
2 M.  long,  and  a carry  of  4 M.  leads  from  its  S.  end  to  Saranac  Inn  (horse 
for  boat  $1V2»  seat  in  a carriage  50c.). 

On  the  Seven  Carry  Route  we  traverse  six  short  carries  and 
six  small  ponds  and  reach  (3  M.)  Little  Clear  Pond,  which  is  1 M. 
long  and  2 M.  from  Saranac  Inn  (9  M.  from  Paul  Smith’s).  In 
either  case  we  cross  the  Adirondack  & St.  Lawrence  Division  ot  the 
N.  Y.  C.  & H.  R.  R. 

*Saranac  Inn  (from  $ 4 ; telegraph-office ; golf)  lies  at  the  N. 
end  of  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  1^/4  M.  from  Saranac  Inn  Station  on  the 
Adirondack  and  St.  Lawrence  R.R.  (see  p.  223). 


Mountains. 


SARANAC  LAKES. 


25.  Route.  213 


*Upper  Saranac  Lake  (1575  ft.),  7^/2  M.  long  and  1/2-3  M.  wide, 
is  one  of  the  largest  sheets  of  water  in  the  district.  It  is  dotted 
with  islands  and  surrounded  by  thickly  wooded  and  hilly  hanks. 
Good  fishing  and  shooting.  Small  steamers  ply  on  the  lake  (fare 
75  c.,  round-trip  $ 1),  calling  at  the  Sweeny  Carry  (Wawheek 
Lodge,  $4-8,  with  tel.  office),  on  the  W.  bank,  Indian  Carry 
(Rustic  Lodge,  $21/2;  golf-links),  at  the  S.  end,  and  Bartlett's  or 
the  Saranac  Club,  on  the  E.  side. 

Wawheek  Lodge  is  8 M.  to  the  E.  (stage  $ IV2)  of  Tupper  Lake  Village.^  on 
the  New  York  <fe  Ottawa  E..  R.  (see  p.  223).  — The  Sweeny  Carry  (3  M,;  horse 
for  boat  $ 2,  seat  in  buckboard  50-75  c.)  leads  to  Raquette  River  (Tromblee’s 
Inn,  $2),  which  may  be  ascended,  with  the  help  of  a horse-carry  ($  11/4*, 
seat  in  carr.  50  c.)  round  the  Raquette  FallSy  to  (ca.  20  M.)  the  N.  end  of  Long 
Lake  (p.  223).  Or  we  may  descend  the  river  to  (11  M.)  Tupper  Lake  (p.  223). 

Indian  Garry  crosses  to  (1  M.)  the  Stony  Creek  Ponds  (1640  ft. 5 Hiawatha 
Hotel,  $ 3-4)  and  to  (3  M.)  Axton^  on  the  Raquette  River  (about  8 M.  from 
Tromblee’s). 

A short  carry  from  the  landing  for  Bartlett’s  (1/4  M. ; horse, 
unnecessary,  50  c.)  leads  to  the  stream  flowing  into  the  M.) 
Middle  Saranac  Lake  ^ more  often  called  Round  Lake  (1545  ft.),  a 
nearly  circular  sheet  of  water,  24/2  M.  in  diameter.  This  little  lake 
is  sometimes  lashed  by  violent  squalls  coming  down  from  the  hills, 
and  it  is  advisable  to  keep  an  eye  on  the  weather.  To  the  S.E. 
rises  Ampersand  Mt.  (3430  ft.;  ^View),  the  trail  to  the  top  of  which 
(ca.  24/2  M.)  leads  through  the  woods  and  is  not  easy  to  follow 
without  a guide.  At  the  N.E.  corner  of  Round  Lake  we  enter  its 
pretty  outlet,  descending  to  (24/2  M.)  the  lower  lake  and  passing 
about  halfway  a series  of  rapids,  where  a short  carry  is  necessary. 

*Lower  Saranac  Lake  (1540  ft.),  5 M.  long  and  3/4- 1 4/4  M. 
wide , is  one  of  the  prettiest  of  the  Adirondack  lakes , surrounded 
by  wooded  hills  and  sprinkled  with  52  islands.  Near  the  lower 
(N.E.)  end  of  the  lake  lies  Saranac  Lake  Village,  with  the  stations 
of  the  N.  Y.  0.  and  D.  & H.  railways  (p.  212),  and  one  of  the  chief 
centres  of  the  district  for  hotels,  guides,  and  outfits. 

The  ’’"'Ampersand  Hotel  ($  4-7)  is  plea'^antly  situated  on  high  ground  on 
the  N.  bank  of  the  lake  and  is  adjoined  by  golf-links.  The  Algonquin 
($  3-4)  lies  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  lake  (omn.  50  c.).  The  Del  Monte  ($  3) 
is  1 M.  to  the  N.  The  Berkelev  ($  3-5)  and  the  ’^Riverside  ($  2-3)  are  the  chief 
hotels  in  the  village  itself.  The  Adirondack  Sanitarium  (for  consumptives) 
lies  IM.  to  the  N.E.  — H.  H.  Miner.,  taxidermist,  to  the  N.  of  the  Algonquin 
Hotel,  has  excellent  stuffed  specimens  of  the  fauna  of  the  Adirondacks. 

Saranac  Lake  is  10  M.  by  road  (railway,  see  p.  212)  from  Lake  Placid 
(p.  215).  The  road  turns  to  the  right  in  the  village,  IV2  M.  from  the  lake, 
and  passes  (2^/2  M.)  the  Ray  Brook  House  (p.  212).  At  (3  M.)  the  fork  the  left 
branch  leads  to  (3  M.)  Lake  Placid.,  the  right  to  (5  M.)  North  Elba  Post  Office 
(p.  215). 

We  may  now  return  to  Paul  Smith’s  by  railway  (see  p.  223). 

b.  From  Port  Kent  to  Ausable  Chasm  and  Lake  Placid. 

Port  Kent  lies  on  the  W.  shore  of  Lake  Champlain  (see  p.  231), 
nearly  opposite  Burlington  (p.  149 ; steamer),  and  within  §4/2  hrs. 
by  railway  of  New  York  (comp.  R.  20b ; fare  $7,60), 


214  Route  25. 


WESTPORT. 


Adirondack 


A short  branch -railway  runs  in  20  min.  from  Port  Kent  to 
(2^/2  M.)  Ausable  Chasm  (*^'Ausable  Chasm  Hotel,  finely  situated, 

$ 4)  and  to  (6  M.)  Keeseville. 

The  **Ausable  Chasm  is,  perhaps,  the  most  wonderful  piece  of 
rock-formation  to  the  E.  of  the  Rockies,  and  should  not  be  omitted 
by  any  traveller  who  comes  within  a reasonable  distance  of  it.  The 
Ausable  River ^ a large  and  rapid  stream,  here  flows  through  a rocky 
gorge  only  20-40  ft.  wide,  between  perpendicular  walls  of  Potsdam 
sandstone,  100-175  ft.  high.  Waterfalls  and  rapids  add  to  the  at- 
tractions. A visit  to  the  chasm  has  been  facilitated  by  paths  and 
bridges ; and  the  boat-ride  through  the  rapids  affords  a novel  and 
exciting  but  perfectly  safe  experience.  Numerous  interesting  fos- 
sils (lingula  antiqua,  trilobites)  have  been  found  here. 

The  Entrance  to  the  chasm  (adm.  75  c.,  boat-ride  50  c.)  is  a little  to 
the  N of  the  Trestle  Bridge^  a few  minutes  from  the  Ausable  Chasm  Hotel. 
At  the  head  of  the  chasm  (to  the  left)  are  the  ^Rainbow  or  Birmingham 
Falls,  70  ft.  high,  while  near  the  point  where  we  enter  are  the  lower  Horse- 
shoe Falls.  Following  the  path  to  the  right  over  the  ledges  (smooth 
as  if  made  artificially),  we  round  the  Elbow ^ beyond  which,  across  the 
stream,  rises  the  Pulpit  Rock  (135  ft.).  Below  the  Split  Rock  (I.)  we  cross 
the  stream.  Farther  on  more  or  less  appropriate  names  are  attached  to 
the  various  phenomena,  such  as  the  Devil's  Oven  (r.).  Hell  Oate^  Jacob's 
Ladder  (r.),  the  Devils  Punch-Bowl  (1.),  Jacob's  Well  (1.),  Mystic  Gorge  (1.), 
Shady  Gorge  (r.),  the  Long  Gallery^  Point  of  Rocks  (1.),  Hyde's  Cave  (r.). 
Column  Rocks  (r.),  and  the  Post  Office  (1.;  so-named  for  very  obvious 
reasons).  We  are  now  in  the  Upper  Flume  ^ at  the  lower  end  of  which 
we  cross  to  the  flat  Table  Rock^  where  the  boat-ride  begins  and  where 
many  visitors  turn  back.  Here,  to  the  right,  tower  the  '^Cathedral  Rocks 
and  the  Sentinel^  iOO  ft.  high.  The  boat  at  first  passes  through  the 
* Grand  Flume^  the  rocky  sides  of  which  are  175  ft.  high,  while  at  one 
place  the  river  is  60  ft.  deep  and  only  12  ft.  wide.  Emerging  from  the 
Flume,  we  pass  through  a quiet  pool  and  enter  the  '‘'Rapids^  through 
which  we  sweep  swiftly  to  the  landing-place  at  the  foot  of  the  chasm. 
We  may  now  either  walk  or  drive  back  to  the  (IV2  M.)  hotel. 

Coaches  run  daily  in  summer  from  the  Ausable  Chasm  Hotel 
to  (32  M.)  Lake  Placid  (p.  215;  $4),  via(3V2M.)  Keeseville^ 

Ausable  Forks  Station  (p.  185),  and  (21  M.)  Wilmington  (p.  216). 

c.  From  Westport  to  Elizabethtown,  Keene  Valley,  and 
Lake  Placid. 

Adirondack  Lodge.  Indian  Pass. 

Westport  Westport  Inn^  overlooking  the  steamboat-wharf, 
$4;  Richards^  $2;  TheWedport,  at  the  rail,  station,  not  to  be  con- 
founded with  the  Westport  Inn,  $2,  unpretending)  is  a village  of 
about  500  inhab.,  on  the  W.  shore  of  Lake  Champlain,  25  M.  to  the 
S.  of  Port  Kent  (p.  213)  and  10  M.  to  the  N.  of  Port  Henry  (p.  231). 
It  is  the  chief  gateway  to,  perhaps,  the  finest  part  of  the  Adirondacks, 
coaches  running  hence,  via  (9  M.)  Elizabethtown  ($  1),  to  Keene 
Valley  (24 M. ; fare  $ 2Y2))  Lake  Placid  (36  M.;  $4),  and  Adirondack 
Lodge  (36  M.;  $4^2)*  is  within  7 hrs.  of  New  York  by  fast 
train  (comp.  R.  20b;  fare  $ 6.81), 


Mountains. 


LAKE  PLACID. 


25.  Route.  215 


The  Road  to  Elizabethtown  (9  M.)  is  pleasant,  but  calls  for 
no  special  remark.  — Elizabethtown  (600  ft.’  Windsor,  $3-4; 
Deers  Head  Inn,  $2-4;  Maplewood  Inn,  1 M.  to  the  N.,  open  the 
whole  year,  $2-3),  a village  with  491  inhab.,  is  prettily  situated  on 
the  Boquet  River,  in  the  well-named  Pleasant  Valley. 

Among  the  points  of  interest  in  the  neighbourhood  are  Cobble  Hill 
(1790  ft.),  just  to  the  S.W.  of  the  town,  with  golf-links;  Raven  Hill  (1970  ft.), 
to  theE.;  and  -"Hurricane  Mt.  (3685  ft.),  5 M.  to  the  W.  (cart-road;  path 
to  the  summit  2 M.  more),  a line  point  of  view.  On  the  W.  side  of 
Hurricane  Mt.  is  the  Willey  House  ($3).  — A road  leads  to  the  S.,  via 
the  (8  M.)  Split  Rock  Falls,  (10  M.)  Euba  Mills,  and  (23  M.)  Schroon  River 
P.  0.,  to  (32  M.)  Schroon  Lake  (p.  224;  coach  thrice  weekly,  $ 21/2).  — To 
the  N.  a road  leads  to  (22  M.)  Keeseville  (p.  214),  via  Poke  0’  Moonshine  Mt. 
and  Augur  Lake. 

The  "^Road  from  Elizabethtown  ToLAKe  Placid  (28  M.  ; from 
which  the  roads  to  Keene  Yalley  and  Adirondack  Lodge  diverge) 
passes  through  one  of  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  the  Adirondacks. 
It  leads  to  the  W.,  passing  between  Hurricane  Mt.  (see  above)  on 
the  right  and  several  lower  hills  on  the  left.  10  M.  Keene  Valley  (see 
p.  216)  opens  to  the  left.  Our  road  turns  N.  to  (2  M.)  Keene  Village 
or  Keene  Centre  (1000  ft. ; Hotel,  D.  75  c.).  Beyond  Keene  the  road 
turns  sharply  to  the  left  (S.E.)  and  ascends  to  the  (4  M.)  beautiful 
^Cascade  Lafees  (2040  ft. ; well  stocked  with  trout),  with  Pitch  Off  Mt. 
(3520  ft.)  rising  so  abruptly  to  the  right  as  barely  to  leave  room  for  our 
passage.  Longf  Pond  Aft.  (4090  ft.)  rises  equally  sheer  on  the  other  side 
of  the  lakes.  The  ^Cascade  Lake  House  (6  M.  from  Keene;  $ 3,  D. 
$ 1)  is  a favourite  resort  of  fishermen  and  others.  Ahead  of  us  we 
now  obtain  a fine  *View  of  the  mountains  enclosing  Lake  Placid.  — 
4 M.  Ameses  Mountain  View  House  (burned  down  in  1903).  Among 
the  mountains  seen  to  the  S.  (left)  are  Mts.  Marcy  and  McIntyre 
(p.  220),  the  two  loftiest  peaks  in  the  district.  At  North  Elba  Post 
Office,  about  1 M.  farther  on,  the  road  to  (5  M.)  Adirondack  Lodge 
(p.  219)  diverges  to  the  left,  and  after  2 M.  more  the  Riverside 
Drive  to  Wilmington  Notch  (p.  216)  leads  to  the  right.  Just  beyond 
this  point  we  cross  the  Ausable  River,  and  on  the  left,  1/2  M.  farther 
on,  is  a sign  pointing  to  (t/2  M.)  John  Brown  s Farm  (p.  216).  About 
1 M.  farther  on  the  road  to  (2  M.)  Lake  Placid  diverges  to  the 
right  from  the  main  road,  v/hich  goes  on  to  (10  M.)  Saranac  Lake 
Village  (p.  213). 

*Lake  Placid  (1860  ft.),  4 M.  long  and  2 M.  broad,  is  surround- 
ed by  finer  and  higher  mountains  than  any  other  of  the  larger  Adir- 
ondack lakes,  and  numerous  hotels  and  cottages  have  been  built  on 
its  banks.  It  contains  three  islands.  Hawk,  Moose  (owned  by  the 
Lake  Placid  Club^,  and  Back.  At  its  S.  end  it  is  closely  adjoined 
by  the  small  Mirror  Lake  (1858  ft.),  1 M.  long  and  1/3  M.  wide. 
Boating  and  fishing  are  carried  on  on  both  lakes,  and  golf-links  have 
been  laid  out.  Whiteface  Mt.  (p.  216)  is  conspicuous  at  the  N.E. 
end  of  Lake  Placid,  while  McKenzie  Mt.  rises  to  the  W.  The  *Yiew 
to  the  S.  includes  the  peaks  (named  from  left  to  right)  of  Gothic, 


216  Route  25. 


KEENE  VALLEY. 


Adirondack 


Saddleback,  Basin,  Marcy,  Golden,  and  McIntyre,  with  Indian  Pass 
(p.  220)  to  the  right  of  the  last.  Small  steamers  ply  on  Lake  Placid. 

Most  of  the  hotels  and  other  houses  are  clustered  round  the  S.  end  of 
Lake  Placid  and  Mirror  Lake.  "Stevens  Hovse  (1965  ft. ; $ 31/2-6) , on  the 
ridge  between  the  two  lakes  ^ Grand  View  Hotel  ($31/2-!),  to  the  S.  of  the 
Stevens  Ho.-,  ^Lake  Placid  Inn  ($31/2),  to  the  E.  of  the  Stevens  Ho.,  with 
view  of  both  lakes  ^ Ruisseaumont  Ho.^  to  the  N.  of  the  last  ($4-6)-,  Home- 
steady  between  the  Grand  View  and  Stevens  Ho.,  33:,  White  Face  Inn^  in 
a sequestered  site  on  the  S.W.  side  of  Lake  Placid,  $ 4^  Undercliff  ($  12-20 
per  week),  W.  bank  of  Lake  Placid.  Camp  AsulyUt  (Mr.  McCutcheon).^  near 
the  White  Face  Inn,  is  one  of  the  fnest  in  the  Adirondacks. 

The  lake  Placid  Club  (postal  address,  Morningside,  N.  Y.),  the  large 
park  of  which  occupies  the  S.  and  E.  sides  of  Mirror  Lake,  differs  from 
the  other  Adirondack  clubs  in  having  no  shooting  or  fshing  preserves, 
hut  provides  its  members  with  excellent  facilities  for  golf,  boating,  bathing, 
riding,  driving,  mountain  climbing,  and  other  outdoor  sports.  Ihe  annual 
subscHption  is  $10.  Visitors  on  the  introduction  of  a member,  may  stay 
14  days  at  the  Club  House  (R.  from  50  c.  to  $ 6 a day),  and  strangers  are 
generally  allowed  to  lunch  or  dine  on  application  at  the  office.  Adirondack 
Lodge  (p.  219)  is  the  forest  headquarters  of  the  Club. 

Excursions.  The  path  to  (3  M.  \ ca.  2 hrs.)  the  top  of  • Whiteface 
Mt.  (4870  ft.)  begins  at  the  N.  end  of  Lake  Placid  (guide  desirable).  The 
" View  includes  the  main  Adirondack  peaks  (S.),  Lake  Champlain  (E.),  the 
Saranac  and  Tupper  Lakes  (W.),  and  about  60  smaller  sheets  of  water, 
while  on  the  N.  it  reaches  to  Canada  and  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  descent 
may  be  made  by  bridle-path  and  cart-track  to  (6  M.)  Wilmington  (see  below). 
— McKenzie  Mt.  (3190  ft.)  may  be  ascended  in  2 hrs.  (no  path).  — - John 
Brown’s  Farm  (route,  see  p.  215)  is  in  a lonely  spot,  3M.  from  Lake  PlaciiL 
The  sturdy  old  Abolitionist  (comp.  p.  328)  had  his  home  here  from  1849 
till  his  death  (1859),  and  now  lies  buried  in  a small  enclosure  near  the 
house,  with  a huge  boulder  marking  the  spot  (shown  by  the  custodian, 
who  has  photographs  for  sale).  Adjacent  is  a monument  with  the  names 
of  twenty  persons  who  bought  the  John  Brown  Farm  and  presented  it  to 
the  State,  to  be  kept  as  a public  park  (1896).  Walkers  may  cut  off  2 M. 
of  the  route  to  Adirondack  Lodge  (p.  219)  by  descending  to  the  Ausahle 
from  John  Brown’s,  crossing  the  river  by  stepping-stones,  and  following 
a path  through  the  woods,  which  joins  the  road  in  2 M. 

The  -Riverside  Drive  through  the  Wilmington  Notch  to  Ausable 
Forks  (26  M.)  diverges  to  the  left  (N.)  from  the  road  to  Elizabethtown,  at  a 
point  4M.  from  Lake  Placid  (see  p.  215^  coach  $21/2).  The  (10  M ) 

is  a defile  on  the  S.E.  flank  of  Mt.  Whiteface  (see  above),  through  which 
flows  the  W.  branch  of  the  Ausable,  scarcely  leaving  room  for  the  road. 

(Bliss  House,  $2),  6 M.  farther  on,  is  a good  starting-point  for 
an  ascent  of  Whiteface  (see  above;  saddle-horse  $4,  guide  $3).  M Ausahle 
Forks  (10  M.  farther  on),  where  the  two  branches  of  the  Ausable  unite, 
we  reach  the  railway  (see  p.  185).  ^ i 

Among  the  numerous  other  excursions  made  from  Lake  Placid  are  iliose 
to  Adirondack  Lodge  (10  M.-,  see  p.  219)  and  Keene  Valley  (21  M.;  see  below). 


^Keene  Valley  (approaches,  see  p.  215),  extending  for  8 M. 
to  the  S.  from  Keene  Village  (p.  215),  is,  in  its  combination  of  the 
gentler  and  the  sterner  beauties  of  scenery  and  its  convenience 
as  a centre  for  all  kinds  of  excursions,  one  of  the  most  desirable 
headc[uarters  in  the  Adirondacks.  It  is  watered  by  a branch  of  the 
Ausahle.,  and  is  enclosed  by  two  mountain -ranges,  including  Hop- 
kins Peak,  the  Giant  of  the  Valley,  and  Noon  Mark  on  the  E.,  and 
Mt.  Porter,  Twin  Mts.,  and  the  Wolfs  Jaws  on  the  W.  The  autumn 
colouring  of  the  trees  is  often  rich  beyond  expression. 

The  valley  is  traversed  bv  a good  road,  which  passes  various  hotels  and 
(5  31.)  Keene  Valley  Village  (1030  ft.).  A bicycle  path  skirts  the  road  from  the 


Mountains. 


KEENE  VALLEY. 


25.  Route.  217 


village  to  the  Lower  Ausable  Lal<e.  The  following  list  of  the  hotels  names 
them  in  consecutive  order  from  N.  to  S.,  as  we  penetrate  the  valley;  but  the 
tourist  is  advised  to  fix  his  quarters  as  near  the  head  of  the  valley  as  possible. 
I-'sfes  House  ($2),  on  the  E,  bank  of  the  river,  at  the  foot  of  Prospect  Hill; 
Adirondack  House  ($21/2),  to  the  W.  of  the  village;  Tdhawus  ($  21/2), 

in  the  village,  to  the  right;  St.  Hubert's  Cottage.^  to  the  right,  near  the  head 
of  the  valley.  ’’‘‘St.  Hubert’s  Inn  (1350  ft.;  from  $4)  is  a large  and  well- 
managed  house  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  occupying  the  site  of  the  well- 
known  Beede  House,  which  was  burned  down  in  1890.  It  is  surrounded 
by  groups  of  private  cottages,  many  of  the  occupants  of  which  take  their 
meals  at  the  hotel.  The  '-  View  is  superb.  Immediately  facing  St.  Hubert’s 
Inn,  to  the  S.E.,  rises  Noon  Mark,  with  the  long  ridge  of  the  Giant  and 
Hopkins  Peak  to  the  left  and  the  conical  Mt.  Colvin  to  the  right.  To 
the  N.  we  look  down  the  Keene  Valley,  and  to  the  S.W.  is  the  road 
to  the  Ausable  Lakes,  between  Mt.  Colvin  and  Mt.  Resegonia.  In  front 
of  St.  Hubert’s  Inn  lie  the  St.  Hubert  Golf  Links.  Adjacent  is  a small 
circulating  library.  — On  the  farm  of  Glenmore.^  at  the  N.  end  of  the  valley, 
is  the  Summer  School  of  Philosophy. 

The  following  Excursions  are  described  with  St.  Hubert’s  Inn  as 
centre,  but  it  will  be  easy  to  make  the  necessary  rectification  for  other  start- 
ing-points in  the  valley.  — Keene  Valley  has  an  excellent  Guides'  Union^ 
a list  of  the  members  of  which  may  be  obtained  at  the  hotels.  The  regular 
fee  is  $3  a day  for  any  excursion;  a graduated  tariff  is  an  obvious 
desideratum  which  has  not  yet  been  adopted.  — Many  new  trails  have  been 
constructed  by  the  Adirondack  Trail  Improvement  Society. 

"Ausable  Lakes,  ca.  15  M.  (there  and  back).  This  is  the  favourite  ex- 
cursion from  Keene  Valley  and  should  on  no  account  be  omitted.  The 
lakes  are  included  in  the  Adirondack  Mountain  Reserve.,  a tract  of  about 
40  sq.  M.  to  the  S.  of  Keene  Valley,  bought  and  controlled  by  a com- 
pany. Ordinary  tourists,  however,  are  freely  admitted  to  the  Reserve, 
though  none  but  the  authorized  guides  are  permitted  to  have  boats 
on  the  upper  lake.  The  entrance  to  the  Reserve  is  a little  to  the  S.W. 
of  St.  Hubert’s  Inn  (toll  for  carr.  walkers  free).  A fine  road,  con- 

structed by  the  company,  leads  hence  to  the  (31/2  M.)  *I.ower  Ausable  Lake 
(1960  ft.;  boat-house,  with  rfmts.,  boats  to  hire,  etc.),  a small  sheet  of 
water,  about  2 M.  long,  surrounded  by  beautifully  wooded  mountains  de- 
scending sheer  to  the  water.  To  the  left  rises  Indian  Face  (2535  ft. ; *View), 
a knob  of  Mt.  Colvin;  to  the  right  are  the  finely  formed  Gothics  and  Mt. 
Resegonia  or  Sawteeth.  [From  the  boat-house  we  may  make  a trip  by  boat 
(1-3  pers.  15  c.,  each  pers.  addit.  5 c.)  to  (10  min.)  the  landing  for  Rain- 
bow Falls.,  a veil-fall  of  about  1(X)  ft.  (rainbow  12-2  p.m.).]  From  the 
upper  end  of  the  lake  a good  trail  leads  to  (I1/4  M.)  the  *Upper  Ausable 
Lake  (1990  ft.),  which  is  IV4  M.  long.  Hn  the  sweep  of  its  wooded  shores, 
and  the  lovely  contour  of  the  lofty  mountains  that  guard  it,  this  lake  is 
probably  the  most  charming  in  America’  (Warner).  To  the  right  (named 
from  left  to  right)  are  Skylight.,  Haystack.,  Mt.  Bartlett.,  Basin^  Saddleback^  Gothic., 
and  Resegonia ; to  the  left,  Colvin  and  the  Boreas  Range.  (Mt.  Marcy  is  not 
seen  from  either  lake.)  The  lake  is  surrounded  with  camps-  belonging  to 
the  guides,  where  meals  are  usually  cooked  and  eaten  before  returning. 
Many  parties  also  spend  days  here  in  one  of  the  camps,  the  charge  being 
25  c.  per  night  for  each  person.  "Before  returning  we  may  row  up  the 
inlet  of  the  lake  as  far  as  (V2  hr.)  the  Elk  Lake  Trail  (p.  218)  and  then 
follow  the  general  course  of  the  stream  (avoiding  paths  to  the  left)  to  (20  min.) 
Panorama  Bluff.,  which  commands  a splendid  -View  of  the  mountains  (from 
left  to  right:  Allen,  Skylight,  Marcy,  Haystack,  Bartlett,  Basin,  Saddleback, 
Gothics,  Resegonia).  Route  to  Mt.  Marcy.,  see  p.  219.  — A trail  beginning 
about  13/4  M.  above  the  Upper  Ausable  Lake,  a little  beyond  the  Marcy 
trail  (p.  219),  leads  to  the  E.  over  the  Boreas  Mt.  Range  to  (51/2  M.)  Elk  Lake 
(1980  ft.),  whence  a road  leads  S.  to  (5  M.)  the  road  from  Tahawus  (p.  221) 
to  Schroon  River  Post  Office  (p.  221;  5 M.  to  the  E.). 

Short  Walks.  The  Russell  Falls  are  reached  in  10  min.  by  a path 
descending  from  the  back  (S.W.  corner)  of  St.  Hubert’s  Inn.  — The  foot 


218  Route  25. 


KEENE  YALLEY. 


Adirondaclc 


of  Roaring  Brook  Falls^  descending  for  about  300  ft.  over  a cliff  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  Giant,  is  about  3/4  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  hotel.  We  follow 
the  Port  Henry  road  to  (10  min.)  the  fork,  turn  to  the  left,  cross  a small 
bridge,  and  then  cross  a field  to  the  right  to  bars  leading  into  the  wood. 
The  cart-track  in  a straight  direction  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  falls.  By 
following  the  Port  Henry  road  for  IV2  M.  farther,  we  reach  Chapel  Pond 
(1600  ft.  ^ right).  A steep  path,  a little  farther  on,  to  the  left,  ascends  to 
(20-30  min.)  the  GianVs  Washbowl  (2250  ft.),  a solitary  mountain-tarn  at 
the  foot  of  a gigantic  cliff.  iV  trail  (marked  by  ^blazes’  on  the  trees) 
leads  hence  to  the  W.  to  (1  M.)  the  top  of  Roaring  Brook  Falls  (see  above), 
whence  we  regain  the  road  by  descending  on  the  right  side  of  the  stream 
(a  round  in  all  of  4-5  M.,  taking  2-3  hrs.).  — With  the  last-mentioned 
walk  may  be  combined  a visit  (2  hrs.  more)  to  Round  Pond  and  Boquet 
Falls  (trails  indistinct;  guide  desirable).  — To  reach  the  (3  M.)  Cathedral 
Rocks  we  follow  the  Ausable  Lake  road  for  1/2  M.  and  then  cross  a rustic 
bridge  to  the  right.  With  this  may  be  combined  a visit  to  the  small 
Cathedral  Falls  (someone  to  point  out  the  way  desirable).  — Artist's  or 
Chapel  Brook.  IV2  M.  We  proceed  as  in  the  Roaring  Brook  Walk  to 
(20  min.)  the  bars  leading  into  the  wood,  and  follow  the  first  path  to  the 
right.  The  scenery  somewhat  resembles  the  Torrent  Walk  at  Dolgelley. 

Ascents.  The  following  ascents  are  condensed,  by  permission,  from 
papers  by  Mr.  Frank  W.  Freeborn  in  'Appalachia’  (p.  159).  Experts  may  dis- 
pense with  guides  in  the  first  six.  — “Noon  Mark  (3550  ft.;  13/4-24/2  hrs.). 
We  diverge  to  the  right  from  the  Chapel  Pond  road,  just  beyond  the  last 
cottage  on  the  right  (Prof.  Felix  Adler  s),  and  follow  the  broad  path,  which 
soon  climbs  along  the  left  side  of  a ravine  to  (35-45  min.)  a bare  ledge 
(view).  The  path  then  follows  a gentle  ridge  and  (in  25-35  min.)  begins 
to  ascend  steenlv  to  (30-40  min.)  the  top.  The  Wiew  includes  Keene  Val- 
ley and  its  bounding  mountains,  Mt.  Dix,  with  its  curious  knob  (S.),  Nipple- 
top,  and  the  Marcy  group.  — Mt.  Colvin  (4074  ft.;  2-3  hrs.).  The  path 
leaves  the  Ausable  Lakes  road  to  the  left,  about  4/4  M.  on  this  side  of  the 
lower  lake,  and  ascends  the  left  side  of  Indian  Face  (p.  217 ; sign-boards). 
35  min.  Path  to  (5  min.)  Wizard's  Washbowl^  to  the  left,  hr.  (1.)  Path 
to  (6  min.)  High  Falls.  5 min.  (1.)  Trail  to  Fairy  Ladder  Falls  and  Nipple- 
top  (4620  ft.).  35  min.  (r.)  High  white  cliff,  a little  beyond  which  are  a 
large  rock  and  a small  spring  (r.).  20  min.  Top  (highest  point  reached  by 
ladders).  The  *View  to  the  N.  includes  the  Ausable  Lakes  and  the  highest 
peaks  of  the  Adirondacks  (named  from  left  to  right:  Skylight,  Marcy, 
Haystack,  Basin,  Saddleback,  Gothic,  with  Sawteeth  in  front,  and  Wolf’s 
Jaws).  — “Giant  of  the  Valley  (4622  ft.;  24/2  34/2  hrs.).  The  path  diverges 
to  the  left  from  the  track  to  Roaring  Brook  Falls,  just  beyond  the  bars 
(1250  ft.)  mentioned  above.  12-15  min.  We  follow  the  path  to  the  left. 
15-20  min.  Corduroy  Bridge.,  beyond  which  we  follow  'blazes’  through 
the  wood  to  the  left  and  reach  (3  min.)  the  brook.  A foot-worn  trail,  also 
indicated  by  blazes,  ascends  hence  steadily  for  I-I4/4  hr.  (The  right  branch 
at  the  fork  is  of  easier  gradient.)  Then  follows  4/2-3/4  hr.’s  scramble  over 
rocks  to  the  end  of  the  S.  spur.  Hence  to  the  top  4/2  hr,  more.  (A  little 
to  the  N.E.  of  the  Signal  is  a small  pool  of  water.)  The  *View  includes 
Lake  Champlain  and  the  Green  Mts.;  and  Mt.  Washington  (p.  169)  is  said 
to  be  visible  in  clear  weather.  — Hopkins  Peak  (3175  ft.;  24/2-3  hrs.).  We 
follow  the  road  down  the  valley  for  about  3 M.,  and  before  reaching  the 
Tahawus  Ho.  (p.  217)  turn  to  the  right  and  cross  the  Ausable.  We  then 
turn  to  the  right  and  follow  the  road  to  (10  min.)  a house,  at  the  back  of 
which  the  path  begins.  I4/2-I3/4  hr.  Spring,  a little  beyond  which  the  path 
emerges  on  the  bare  ledges.  (It  is  well  to  mark  this  point  in  some  way 
as  a guide  in  returning.)  35-45  min.  Top.  Good  view  of  the  Giant,  etc.  — Mt. 
Baxter  (2400  ft.:  14/2-24/2  hrs.).  The  path  begins  about  3/4  M.  to  the  W. 
of  the  cottage  of  'Old  Mountain  Phelps,’  which  is  3/4  M.  from  the  Tahawus 
Ho.  The  ’^Balcony.,  a bare  ledge  on  the  W.  summit,  commands  a splendid 
view  of  Keene  Valley,  and  it  is  hardly  worth  while  to  climb  (2()  min. 
more)  to  the  top  of  the  highest  (middle)  peak.  — The  Gothics  (4740  ft. ; 
24/2-34/2  hrs.).  The  trail  begins  to  the  right  of  the  Ausable  Lake  road. 


Mountains. 


ADIRONDACK  LODGE. 


25.  Route.  219 


2 M.  from  St.  Hubert’s  Inn.  It  is  not  very  clear  at  first,  but,  after  crossing 
(V4  hr.)  the  Ausable,  improves.  3 min.  Cascade.  V/‘z  hr.  Ridge  at  right 
angles  to  our  course,  which  the  trail  skirts  to  the  right,  1/2  hr.  Hollo°w, 
with  swampy  pool.  The  (15-20  min.)  top  commands  a good  near  "View 
of  Mt.  Marcy,  with  Mt.  McIntyre  to  its  right.  Lake  Placid  and  Whiteface 
are  seen  in  the  distance  (N.).  Dix  Mt.,  with  its  singular  notch,  is  con- 
spicuous to  the  E.  — *Mt.  Marcy  or  Tahawus  (‘'Cloud-splitter’;  5345  ft.; 
two  days;  guide  necessary),  the  highest  of  the  Adirondacks.  This  is  a 
grand  but  somewhat  fatiguing  excursion,  which  should  not  be  lightly  un- 
dertaken. The  night  is  spent  in  Boulder  Camp  (see  below),  and  the  de- 
scent may  be  made  to  Adirondack  Lodge  (see  below).  Campers  on  the  Upper 
Ausable  Lake  can  make  the  trip  in  one  day  (ascent  4-5  hrs.,  descent  3-4 
hrs.).  The  path  (7  M.  long)  begins  at  the  little  bay  called  ^Cold  Slough’'  in 
the  inlet  of  Upper  Ausable  Lake,  about  U/z  M.  beyond  its  S.  end,  and  at 
first  crosses  boggy  ground.  25  min.  Path  diverging  to  the  left  (our  path 
straight  on).  hr.  Lookout  Point.,  a high  sandy  bank.  The  path  becomes 
steeper  and  in  40  min.  crosses  Marcy  Brook.  10  min.  Path  leading  to  the 
right  to  (5  min.)  Boulder  Gamp  (see  above).  The  main  path  becomes  steep 
and  wet.  40  min.  Col  between  Skylight  (1.;  4920  ft.)  and  Mt.  Marcy,  with 
a spring  of  good  water  and  the  remains  of  Summit  Gamp.  The  trail  crosses 
a tract  of  low  balsams  to  (25  min  ) the  open  ledges,  beyond  which  there 
is  no  trail.  The  top  is  reached  in  Vi  hr.  more.  The  *View  embraces  the 
whole  of  the  Adirondacks,  with  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Green  Mts.  to  the  E. 
To  the  S.E.,  between  us  and  the  dark  Haystack.,  lies  the  deep  and  narrow 
Panther  Gorge  (3350  ft.).  At  our  feet  (S.W.)  lies  the  Tear  of  the  Glouds,  a 
small  lake  4320  ft.  above  the  sea,  which  is  the  highest  source  of  the 
Hudson.  The  trail  from  the  top  to  Adirondack  Lodge  is  TVz  M.  long  (p.  220). 
— Among  other  mountains  that  may  be  ascended  from  Keene  Valley' 
with  guides,  are  Dix Mt.  (4842  ft.;  one  long  day).  Haystack  (4918  ft. ; one  day), 
Nippletop  (4685  ft.;  8 hrs.),  and  Mt.  Porter  (E.  end,  3790  ft.;  31/2-41/2  hrs.)! 

Schroon  Lake  (p.  224)  is  reached  from  Keene  Valley  by  the  Port  Henry 
road  (see  p.  218)  to  (8  M.)  Euha  Mills^  and  thence  as  at  p,  215.  — There  is 
no  very  direct  or  easy  route  connecting  Keene  Valley  with  the  Long  Lake 
and  Blue  Mountain  district.  Perhaps  the  best  route  is  by  the  trail  over  the 
Boreas  Mt.  Range  (p.  217)  or  by  the  Tahawxis'l  Trail  (p.  220).  Or  we  may 
go  via  Saranac  Lake  as  described  at  p.  213.  Lastly,  we  may  return  by  train, 
via  Westport,  to  Saratoga.,  and  proceed  thence  as  in  R.  25e.  ‘ ’ 

^Adirondack  Lodge  (2160  ft.),  completely  bidden  in  the  dense 
forest  to  the  N.  of  Mt.  McIntyre  and  5 M.  from  the  highroad 
(transfer-coach  $ 1;  comp.  p.  215),  is  now  the  forest-branch  of  the 
Lake  Placid  Club  (p.  216)  and  affords  excellent  headquarters  for 
anglers  and  pedestrians.  The  lodge  itself,  which  was  tastefully  built 
in  the  style  of  a rustic  log-house,  was  burned  down  in  1903  but  is 
to  be  at  once  rebuilt  in  the  original  style ; meanwhile  accommo- 
dation is  provided  for  small  parties  ($4-5  per  day).  In  front  of  the 
house  lies  the  pretty  little  Heart  Lake.,  reflecting  the  form  of  Mount 
Jo  (3000  ft.),  opposite  Mt.  McIntyre.  The  fire,  which  destroyed  the 
trees  on  the  E.  side  of  the  lake,  has  opened  up  the  magnificent 
forest  and  mountain  view  to  the  S.  No  sign  of  human  habitation  is 
visible.  Beyond  the  lodge  (to  the  S.)  all  roads  cease,  and  the  only 
means  of  communication  are  ‘trails’  through  the  virgin  forest,  some- 
times followed  by  the  ‘blazes’  only  (guides  generally  desirable).  — 
Indian  Pass.,  see  p.  220. 

Excursions.  To  Avalanche  Lake.,  5M.  The  trail  leads  to  the  S.,  through 
the  woods.  This  pretty  little  lake  (2860  ft.)  lies  between  Mt.  McIntyre  and 
Mt.  Golden.  The  trail  is  continued  along  its  W.  side  to  (IV2  M.)  Lake 
Golden  (2770  ft. ; log-camp).  From  Lake  Golden  a trail  leads  to  the  W. 


220  Route  25. 


INDIAN  PASS. 


Adirondack 


to  (7  M.)  the  Tahawus  Club  (see  below),  via  (2  M.)  Calamity  Pond.  — Mount  Jo 
(p.  217)  is  climbed  in  affords  a good  view.  — *Mt.  McIntyre 

(5112  ft.)  the  highest  but  one  of  the  Adirondacks,  is  ascended  hence  in  2-3  hrs. 
(descent’ IV2-2  hrs. path  steep,  esp.  towards  the  top;  guide  desirable, 
hut  may  be  dispensed  with  by  an  expert  who  has  received  a few  directions). 
The  trail  winds  round  the  W.  side  of  Mt.  Wright  (to  our  left).  About  half- 
way up  are  the  small  Silver  Cascade  and  Hermit's  Gave.  The  *View  includes 
Mt.  Marcy  (close  by,  to  the  S.E.),  Lake  Golden  (but  not  Avalanche  Lake), 
Golden  Mt.,  Saranac  Lakes,  the  finely  formed  Gothics,  the  noble  form 
of  Whiteface,  the  splendid  precipice  of  Wallface  (see  below),  Mt.  Seward, 
etc.  Lake  Champlain  is  said  to  be  visible  in  clear  weather.  — *Mt.  Marcy 
(p.  219)  is  climbed  hence  by  a trail  71/2  M.  long,  in  4-5  hrs.  (descent  2V2- 
31/2  hrs.  guide  necessary).  The  first  half  of  the  ascent  is  generally  very 
m-uddy  and  fatiguing.  The  trail  passes  the  Crystal  Falls  and  (near  the 
summit)  the  Tahawus  Cabin.  Those  who  mean  to  descend  to  Keene  Valley 
telegraph  for  a boat  to  meet  them  at  the  inlet  of  Upper  Ausable  Lake  (comp, 
p,  218),  and  should  arrange  to  pass  the  night  in  Boulder  Camp  (p.  219). 

• View,  see  p.  219.  — To  the  -^Iroquois  Ravine,  see  below.  — To  Scott's  Pond, 
see  below.  — A trail  leads  through  the  woods  from  Adirondack  Lodge  to 
(5-6  M.)  John  Brown's  Farm  (p.  216).  — The  South  Meadow  Trail  (easy  to 
follow)  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  road  to  the  highroad,  1 M.  from 
the  Lodge,  and  leads  to  the  E.  via  the  South  Meadows,  and  then  to  the  N. 
to  the  highroad,  which  it  reaches  about  2 M.  to  the  W.  of  the  Cascade 
Lakes  (p.  215).  This  route  is  uncomfortable  in  wet  weather.  The  shortest 
route  to  Keene  Valley  is  the  trail  leading  along  the  Slide  Brook  and  coming 
out  at  the  Tahawus  House  (p.  217). 

From  Adirondack  Lodge  through  the  Indian  Pass  to  the 
Tahawus  Club,  Lake  Henderson,  and  Tahawus,  23  M.  (9-10  hrs. ; 
guide  necessary). 

The  trail  begins  at  the  W.  end  of  Heart  Lake  and  leads  to  the  S.W. 
On  either  side  it  is  bordered  by  virgin  forest.  After  about  3 M.  the  trail 
through  the  ^Iroquois  Ravine,  a fine  gorge  on  the  slope  of  Mt.  McIntyre, 
dlve-ges  to  the  left.  In  about  2 M.  more  (2  hrs.  from  Adirondack  Lodge) 
we  reach  Fish  Gamp,  where  meals  are  sometimes  cooked  by  the  guide.  [The 
trail  to  Scott  Pond,  3 M.  to  the  S W.,  here  diverges  to  the  right.]  The  next 
mile  involves  a good  deal  of  rough  clambering  over  rocks  (no  danger)  and 
leads  us  to  (V4  fir.)  -Summit  Rock,  in  the  centre  of  ^Indian  Pass  (2940  ft.), 
a magnificent  ravine  between  Mt.  McIntyre  and  Wallface.  In  front  of  us  the 
"View  stretches  over  a sea  of  forest  to  (5  31.)  Lake  Henderson,  1300  ft. 
below  us,  while  to  the  right  the  majestic  rocky  wall  of  -Wallface  (3890  ft.) 
rises  sheer  to  a height  of  1300  ftr,  one  of  the  grandest  cliffs  in  the  New 
World.  The  headwaters  of  the  Hudson,  flowing  to  the  S.,  and  the  Ausable, 
flowing  to  the  N.,  rise  here  so  close  to  one  another  that  part  of  a pail  of 
water  emptied  at  the  summit  would  find  its  way  to  New  York  Harbour 
and  part  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  [Those  who  do  not  wish  to  go^  on 
by  this  route  to  the  Blue  Mt.  country  may  turn  back  here,  as  this  view 
commands  the  entire  pass  and  the  trail  farther  on  is  rough  and  neglected. 
Good  walkers,  however,  may  go  on  to  Lake  Henderson  and  return  to  Adiron- 
dack Lodge  by  the  Lake  Golden  route  (see  above).]  Our  path  then  begins 
to  descend  rapidlv,  at  first  over  rocks.  Farther  on  it  is  easier  and  more 
gradual.  In  531.  (2 hrs.)  from  Summit  Rock  we  reach  Lake  Henderson  (187oft.), 
the  E.  bank  of  which  we  follow  to  (2  M. ; 3/^  hr.)  the  deserted  hamlet  of 
Adirondack  or  the  Upper  Iron  Works,  with  the  house  of  the  Tajiawus  Club 
(introduction  necessary),  which  holds  40  sq.  31.  of  the  surrounding  country 
as  a game  and  fish  preserve.  Mt.  Marcy  (p.  219)  may  be  ascended  hence  in 
5-6  hrs.  by  a trail  (12  31.)  leading  via  Calamity  Pond  to  Lake  Golden 
(comp,  above)  and  then  striking  to  the  right  and  passing  the  Tear  of  the 
Clouds  (p.  219;  guide  necessary).  To  the  W.  rises  (4  M.)  Mt.  Santanom 
(4645  ft.),  and  to  the  N.W.  (8  M.)  Mt.  Seward  (4385  ft.).  The  Iron  Works 
were  established  in  1826  by  a Mr.  Henderson,  who  was  killed  by  an  accident 
ta  Calamity  Pond  (see  above)  in  1845,  after  which  they  were  abandoned.  — 


Mountains. 


FULTON  LAKES. 


25.  Route,  221 

From  the  Tahawus  Club  a fair  road  leads  to  the  S.,  passing  Lake  Sanford 
(1800  ft.;  31/2 M.  long),  to  (10  M.)  Tahawus^  where  there  is  another  club-house 
of  the  Tahawus  Club.  Hence  we  may  either  drive  to  the  right  (W.)  to 
(19  M.)  the  Sagamore^  at  Long  Lake  (p.  223),  or  to  the  left  (E.)  to  (19  M.) 
Schroon  River  Post  Office^  8 M.  to  the  N.  oi  Schroon  Lake 

d.  From  TJtica  to  Malone  vi&  the  Tapper  and  Saranac  Lakes. 

167  M.  St.  Lawrence  and  Adirondack  Railway  (N.  Y.  C.  R.  R.  system) 
in  51/4-7  hrs.  (fare  $5;  parlor-car  $1).  Through-carriages  run  from  New 
York  to  all  points  in  the  Adirondacks  reached  by  this  railway  (to  Tupper 
Lake  Junction  in  9 hrs.,  $8.14;  to  Saranac  Inn  in  10  hrs.,  $8.59;  to  Raqueite 
Lake  in  91/2  hrs.,  $7.59;  to  Malone  in  11  hrs.,  $9.55;  parlor-car  or  sleeper 
$ 2).  The  line  traverses  the  whole  of  the  Adirondack  Wilderness  from  S. 
to  N.  and  now  forms,  especially  since  the  opening  of  the  branch  to  Raquette 
Lake  (see  below),  the  chief  approach  to  the  Adirondacks  from  New  York. 

Utica  (Rail.  Restaurant),  see  p.  233.  — The  line  runs  towards 
the  N.W.  17  M.  Trenton  Falls ^ see  p.  233.  We  cross  the  West 
Canada  Creek.  21  M.  Remsen,  see  p.  234;  30  M.  Forestport , for 
Honnedaga  Lake;  35  M.  White  Lake  (Studor’s  Hotel,  3/^  M.  from 
the  station,  $2);  46  M.  Otter  Lake  (Hotel,  $2-3).  At  (43  M.) 
McKeever^  the  station  for  Moose  River  and  Woodhull  Lake^  we  cross 
the  Moose  River.  — From  (52  M.)  Fulton  Chain  a branch-line  runs 
to  (2  M.)  Old  Forge  (Forge  Ho.,  from  $ 3),  whence  a small  steamer 
ascends  the  Fulton  Lakes. 

The  Fulton  Chain  of  Lakes  (1680-1800  ft.),  eight  in  number,  connected 
by  streams,  form  a favourite  resort  of  sportsmen  and  anglers.  The  steamer 
passes  through  the  so-called  Firsts  Second^  and  Third  Lakes  (Bald  Moun- 
tain Ho.,  on  Third  Lake,  $ 3)  to  the  head  of  Fourth  Lake  (Eagle  Bay  Hotel, 
$3V2-4;  Cedar  Isle  Camp,  $21/2-3;  Rocky  Point  Inn,  from  $4;  Hess  Inn, 
'$3;  Arrowhead,  $3-7).  At  Eagle  Bay  the  steamer  connects  with  the  Ra- 
quette Railway  (see  below).  — From  the  steamer  terminus,  at  the  Arrowhead, 
a stage-line  runs  to  the  foot  of  Sixth  Lake,  and  steamers  on  Sixth  and  Seventh 
Lakes  (Seventh  Lake  Ho.,  $ 21/2)  make  a convenient  approach  to  the  camps 
and  hotels  on  the  upper  lakes;  or  a delightful  trip  may  be  made,  by 
means  of  small  boat  and  carries,  through  Sixth,  Seventh,  and  Eighth  Lakes 
and  the  Brown's  Tract  Inlet  to  (3-4  hrs.)  Raquette  Lake  (p.  222). 

Beyond  Fulton  Chain  our  line  follows  the  N.  branch  of  the 
Moose  River. 

At  (57  M.)  Clearwater  connection  is  made  with  the  Raquette 
Railway  for  Raquette  Lake  and  Blue  Mountain  Lake  (see  below). 


From  Ole AUW'ATER  to  Raquette  Lake,  I8Y4  M.,  railway  in 
50  min.  (fare  95  c.).  This  line  makes  a convenient  approach  to  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  regions  of  the  Adirondacks,  formerly  somewhat 
difficult  of  access.  Leaving  Clearwater,  it  crosses  the  N.  branch  of 
the  Moose  River,  passing  (2  M.)  Rondaxe.  on  the  lake  of  that  name. 
— 6M.  Bald  Mountain  (see  above),  on  Third  Lake;  7M.  Fairview.  — 
At  (9  M.)  Eagle  Bay,  near  the  head  of  Fourth  Lake,  connection 
is  made  with  the  steamers  for  all  points  on  the  Fulton  Lakes 
(see  above).  — From  (12  M.)  Uncas  Road  a private  carriage 
road  leads  to  Mohegan  Lake.,  where  Mr.  J.  P.  Morgan  has  a large 


222  Route  25* 


RAQtJETTE  LAKE. 


Adirondack 


and  luxurious  summer-camp,  and  to  Sagamore  Lake,  the  summer- 
home  of  Mr.  Alfred  G.  Vanderbilt.  [The  camps  are  also  connected 
by  road  with  Raquette  Lake.]  — I8V4  M.  Raquette  Lake  (Station 
Restaurant). 

^Raquette  Lake  (1775  ft.),  the  most  irregularly  shaped  of  the 
Adirondack  lakes,  with  numerous  promontories  and  bays,  is  about 
10  M.  long  (5  M.  in  a direct  line)  and  1-272  M.  wide.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  low  hills,  and  the  environing  forests  teem  with  game. 

The  following  are  the  Lake  Raquette  hotels:  ’^Antlers  ($8^2),  Hunter  s 
Rest  ($21/2),  on  the  W.  bank;  Sunset  Camp,  on  Wood’s  Point,  near  the 
Marion  River  Outlet  ($21/2);  Brightside,  on  the  point  to  the  N.  of  The 
Anilers,  272*3.  — The  Private  Camps  round  Raquette  Lake  are  the  most 
elaborate  in  the  whole  district  (comp,  above),  and  *Camp  Pine  Knot  (Mrs. 
C.  P.  Huntington),  on  the  S.  side  of  the  promontory  below  the  Marion 
River,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  places  of  the  kind  in  America.  An 
introduction  to  the  owner  of  one  of  these  camps  will  double  the  pleasure 
of  a visit  to  the  lake. 

From  Raquette  Lake  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  12  M., 
steamers  and  railway  of  the  Raquette  Lake  Transportation  Co.  in 
274  hrs.  (fare  to  Marion  Carry  50  c.,  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake  House 
$ 1.25).  The  small  steamer  passes  The  Antlers  Hotel  and  crosses 
the  lake  to  the  Marion  River,  along  which  it  proceeds  to  Marion 
River  Carry  (Carry  Inn,  $ 272.  75  c.),  where  we  leave  the  boat 

and  take  the  railway  across  a short  carry  (72^'^-)  ^0  Vtowana  Lake. 
Traversing  this  narrow  lake  (272  M.  long)  to  its  E.  extremity,  the 
steamer  threads  a connecting  stream  and  enters  Eagle  Lake.  Here, 
on  the  site  of  the  ‘Eagle’s  Nest’,  a farm-house  on  the  N.  bank,  for- 
merly the  home  of  ‘Ned  Buntline’,  the  author’,  the  Eagle’s  Nest 
Golf  Club  links  have  been  laid  out,  and  a club-house  hotel  built. 
The  steamer  again  passes  through  a narrow  outlet , enters  Blue 
Mountain  Lake,  and  proceeds  to  the  station  at  its  farther  end. 

Blue  Mountain  Lake  (1800  ft.),  3 M.  long  and  2 M.  wide,  lies 
at  the  base  of  Blue  Mt.,  which  rises  to  the  N.E. 

The  hotels  on  the  lake  are  the  " Utowana  Hotel  (500  beds;  $ 4),  on  the 
S.  shore;  Blue  Mt.  Lake  House  ($3-4),  at  the  E.  end;  Blue  Mi.  House  (225  ft. 
above  the  lake;  $2-272);  Maple  Lodge,  between  the  last  two  (moderate), 
at  the  foot  of  Blue  Mt.  — Blue  Mountain  (3760  ft.)  is  ascended  by  a bridle- 
path in  2 hrs.  — A road  leads  N.  from  Blue  Mt.  Lake,  through  the  woods, 
to  (11  M.)  Long  Lake  Village  (p.  223;  stage  in  3 hrs.,  fare  $1V2). 

From  Blue  Mountain  Lake  to  (30  M.)  North  Greek,  see  p.  224. 

From  Raquette  Lake  to  Long  Lake,  12  M.,  by  small  boat, 
with  guide  (line  of  small  steamers  with  connecting  railways  in  con- 
templation). From  the  N.  end  of  Raquette  Lake  we  cross  a short 
carry  (72  M.)  to  Forked  Lake  (1750  ft. ; Forked  Lake  House,  $ 2’/2)) 
a picturesque  sheet  of  water,  with  several  private  camps. 

Those  who  are  bound  for  the  Tupper  Lakes  (p.223)  cross  Forked  Lake 
(pron.  ‘Forked’)  to  the  N.,  pass  through  the  outlet  into  (6  M.)  Little  Forked 
Lake,  and  thence  proceed,  by  boat  (2^/2  M.)  and  carries  (672  M.),  via  Carey 
Pond,  Bottle  Pond,  and  *Rock  Pond,  to  (8  M.)  Little  Tupper  Lake  (p. 

We  turn  to  the  right  (E.)  on  Forked  Lake  and  from  its  E.  end 
descend  through  the  picturesque  Raquette  River  to  (8M.)  Long  Lake, 


Mountains. 


TtJPPER  LAKES. 


55.  Route.  .223 


about  2 M.  of  tlie  route  being  tbe  ‘carries’  required  to  pass  tbe 
Buttermilk  Falls  and  other  unnavigable  parts  of  the  river. 

Long  Lake  (1615  ft.),  14  M.  long  and  V2-I  M.  wide,  is  pretty, 
though  tamer  than  many  of  the  other  lakes.  To  the  right  and  left 
as  we  enter  it  are  Mt.  Sahattis  and  the  OwVs  Head  (2825  ft.).  On 
the  right  (E.)  bank,  about  2 M.  below  the  head,  is  the  Grove  House 
($  3),  a great  hunting  and  fishing  resort;  and  about  1 M.  farther  on, 
on  the  same  side,  is  Long  Lake  Village^  near  which,  on  the  lake, 
are  the  Sagamore  House  ($  4)  and  Long  Lake  House  ($  2). 

Nearly  opposite  Long  Lake  Village  begins  a boat  and  portage  route 
to  Little  Tupper  Lake  (see  below)  via  Clear  Pond^  Little  and  Big  Slim  Ponds, 
and  Stonp  Pond.  — Stage  to  Blue  Mt.  Lake,  see  p.  222. 

Farther  on  Long  Lake  expands.  At  its  lower  end  (E.  bank)  is 
the  small  Island  House  ($2).  To  the  right  rises  Mt.  Seward  (p.  220). 

From  Long  Lake  to  Upper  Saranac  Lake,  see  p.  213. 


Beyond  Clearwater  (p.  221)  the  train  runs  high  up  on  the  hillside, 
overlooking  various  small  lakes  to  the  right.  About  2 M.  to  the  PL 
of  (63  M.)  Big  Moose  lies  Big  Moose  Lake  (1800  ft.;  Glenmore 
Hotel,  Higby  Camp,  $ 2-3).  We  now  reach  the  culminating  point 
of  the  line  (2050  ft.)  and  begin  to  descend.  81  M.  Nehasane,  on 
Lake  Lila,  in  the  private  park  of  Hr.  Webb;  84  M.  Bog  Lake. 
From  (88V2  M.)  Long  Lake  West  (Wilderness  Inn  , $ 2V2)  stages 
run  to  (5M.)  Little  Tupper  Lake  (see  below)  and  (18 M.)  Long  Lake 
(see  above).  93  M.  Horseshoe,  on  Horseshoe  Lake,  the  junction  of 
a narrow-gauge  railway  used  in  the  transport  of  maple  sugar.  — 
100  M.  Chlldwold,  the  station  for  (6  M.  ; coach  $1)  the  * Hotel 
Childwold  ($4-5),  on  Lake  Massawepie  (1535  ft.).  A few  miles 
farther  on  we  cross  the  Raquette  River. 

108  M.  Tupper  Lake  Junction  is  IY2  M.  (stage)  from  Tupper 
Lake  (Altamont,  Iroquois,  $2),  the  terminus  of  the  New  York 

& Ottawa  R*.  R.  (p.  224),  situated  on  Raquette  Pond,  2 M.  below 
the  foot  of  Tupper  Lake  (see  below).  In  summer  a steamer  plies 
hence  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  calling  at  the  various  hotels.  The 
station  is  8M.  from  Wawheek  Lodge  on  Upper  Saranac  Lake. 

Tupper  Lake  (1555  ft.),  7 M.  long  and  3 M.  wide,  is  surrounded  by  low 
but  wild  hills  and  is  much  frequented  by  sportsmen.  It  contains  several 
islands.  On  the  E.  bank,  near  the  N.  end,  are  the  Waukesha  ($  3)  and  Prince 
Albert  Hotels.  — From  the  head  of  Tupper  Lake  we  may  proceed  by  boat 
and  portages  to  (4V4  M.)  Round  Pond,  and  cross  this  (21/2 M.)  by  boat  and  carry 
to  (1  M.)  Little  Tupper  Lake.  — Little  Tupper  Lake  (1730  ft.)  is  4 M.  long 
and  1 M.  wide.  — From  Little  Tupper  Lake  to  Long  Lake,  see  above*,  to 
Raquette  Lake,  see  p.  222. 

The  line  now  passes  several  small  lakes.  — 122  M.  Saranac 
Inn  Station,  M.  from  Saranac  Inn  (p.  212;  omn.  50  c.).  From 
(125^2  M*)  Lake  Clear  (1^2  M*  from  Lake  Clear  Ho.,  p.  212)  a branch- 
line runs  to  the  right  to  (5  M.)  Saranac  Lake  and  (15  M.)  Lake 
Placid  (see  p.  212).  To  the  left  lies  Clear  Lake  (p.  212).  — 130  M. 


SOHROON  LAKE. 


224  Route  25. 

Paul  Smith's  is  4 M.  from  the  St.  Regis  Lake  House  (see  p.  212; 
stage). To  the  left,  at  (133  M.)  Rainbow  Lake  Station  (The  Brigh- 

ton, $ 2V2;  Rainbow  Lake  Inn,  $ 2V2),  ^ve  see  Rainbow  Lake  (3  M. 
long;  trout).  136  M.  Onchiota  (comp.  p.  212).  142  M.  Loon  Lake 
Station  is  31/2  M.  from  Loon  Lake  House  (p.  212 ; stage).  The  line 
now  runs  parallel  to  the  Del.  & Hudson  R.  R.  (p.  212)  for  some 
distance  and  then  skirts  the  Salmon  River.  154  M.  Mountain  View 
(hotel);  I56V2  M.  OwVs  Head. 

167  M.  Malone  (^Howard,  $2-3),  an  industrial  village  with 
(1900)  5935  inhah.,  is  a station  on  the  Rutland  R.  R.  from  Alburgh 
and  Rouse's  Point  to  Ogdensburg  (see  p.  234).  Hence  to  Montreal, 
see  p.  186. 

The  Tupper  Lakes  and  the  St.  Regis  Lake  House  may  also  he  reacned  by 
the  New  York  & Ottawa  R.  R.^  starting  from  Moira  (p.  234),  another  station 
on  the  Rutland  R.  R.  line  to  Ogdensburg,  14  M.  to  the  W.  of  Malone. 


e.  From  Saratoga  to  North  Creek. 
Schroon  Lake. 


Fkom  Saratoga  to  North  Creek,  58  M.,  Adirondack  Railway  in  2 hrs. 
($2;  sleeping-cars  from  New  York  to  North  Creek  without  change  $2*, 
fare  from  Saratoga  to  Bhie  Mt.  Lake  $33/4). 

Saratoga,  see  p.  225.  The  train  runs  to  the  N.,  passing  Woodlawn 
Park  (p.  226;  r.).  Near  (17  M.)  Corinth  we  reach  (r.)  the  Hudson, 
the  pretty  upper  valley  of  which  we  follow.  At  (22  M.)  Hadley 
we  cross  the  Sacondaga  (bridge  96  ft.  high). 

Hadley  is  the  station  for  Luzerne  (Wayside  Inn,  $3V2-5),  a pleasant 
summer-resort  beyond  the  Hudson,  on  the  pretty  little  Lake  of  Luzerne, 


The  wooded  sugarloaf  hill  to  the  right,  beyond  Hadley,  is  known 
as  the  Potash  Kettle  (1735  ft.).  The  valley  contracts,  and  the  hills 
are  prettily  wooded.  — 50  M.  Riverside  (815  ft.)  is  the  starting-point 
of  the  stage-coaches  for  (7  M.)  Schroon  Lake  (see  below). 

The  coaches  run  via  (6  M.)  the  Pottersville  House  ($2,  D.  75c.)  to  the 
landing  at  the  lower  end  of  the  lake,  whence  a small  steamer  plies  to  the 
hotels  at  its  (9  M.)  head  (fare  from  Riverside  $2),  touching  at  the  Watch 
Rock  Hotel  ($  3V2),  on  the  E.  shore,  the  T aylor  House  ($  21/2-3),  on  the  W.  shore, 
and  other  points.  — Schroon  Lake  (807  ft.),  10  M.  long  and  1-2  M.  wide, 
is  surrounded  by  rugged  hills  and  affords  good  fishing.  Near  its  kead  lies 
the  village  of  Schroon  Lake,  with  numerous  hotels,  the  largest  of  which  are 
the  Leiawd  .ffowse  ($  3-4),  the  Ondawa  ($2-21/2),  and  the  Windsor  ($2).  The 
road  (stages)  to  the  N.  runs  hence  via  (4  M.)  the  beautiful  Paradox  Lake 
(820  ft.)  and  Schroon  River  Post  Office  (p.  215)  to  (22  M.)  Euha  Mtlls  (p.  215), 
where  it  forks,  one  branch  going  to  (6  M.)  Keene  Valley  (p.  216),  the  other 
to  (10  M.)  Elizabethtown  (p.  215). 

58  M.  North  Creek  (975  ft. ; Adirondack  Hotel,  American  Ho., 
Straight  Ho.,  $ 2)  is  the  terminus  of  the  railway  and  the  starting- 


point  of  the  coaches  to  Blue  Mt.  Lake. 

From  North  Creek  to  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  30  M.,  coach  in  6V2  hrs. 
(fare  $ 2).  This  is  not  a very  attractive  drive  , especially  as  the  road  is 
bad  and  passes  through  an  extensive  ‘burnt  district’.  — To  the  left  rises 
Oore  Mt.  (3540  ft.).  5 M.  North  River  Hotel  (D.  25-75  c.).  [About  4 M.  to 
the  S.W.  lies  Thii'teenth  Lake  (1950  ft.),  frequented  by  anglers.]  The  road 


SARATOGA. 


26.  Route.  225 


now  quits  the  Hudson  and  ascends  rapidly.  Mf.  Mar-.y  (p.  220)  may  be 
seen  in  the  distance  to  the  right.  We  cross  (17  M.)  Indian  River  (poor 
inn).  18  M.  Indian  Lake  Rost  Office  (inn) ; 20  M.  Cedar  River  (Hotel,  $ 2). 
We  cross  the  watershed  (1760  ft.)  between  the  Hudron  and  the  Raquette 
(p.  222).  — 29  M.  Blue  Mountain  Lake  (see  p.  222). 


26.  Saratoga. 

Railway  Stations.  Delaware  and  Hudson  Station , Division  St. , near 
the  back  of  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  for  New  York,  Albany,  the  Adirondacks,  etc. ; 
Boston  d:  Maine  R.  R.  Station^  Henry  St.,  for  Saratoga  Lake,  Boston,  etc. 

Hotels.  United  States  Hotel,  Broadway,  cor.  Division  St.,  an  enor- 
mous structure  300  yds.  long,  with  10(X)  beds,  $5^  Grand  Union,  occupying 
the  square  between  Broadway,  Congress,  Federal,  and  Washington  Sts., 
and  enclosing  a large  tree-shaded  court,  with  2400  ft.  of  street-front  and 
1500  beds,  from  $4;  Congress  Hall,  Broadway,  between  Spring  St.  and 
East  Congress  St.,  with  1000  beds,  from  $3^  Windsor,  Broadway,  cor. 
E.  William  St.,  a fashionable  house,  from  $4;  Kensington,  with  cottages, 
$4;  Worden,  Broadway,  cor.  Division  St.,  $3,  open  all  the  year  round; 
American-A DELPHI,  next  door  to  the  U.  S.  Hotel,  $3-3V2;  Columbian,  $3; 
Excelsior  Spring  Hotel,  Excelsior  Park,  $3;  Commercial,  $ 2*3;  Hcestis 
($3),  Linwood  ($2-3),  Temple  Grove  (used  as  a school  in  winter),  and 
many  other  small  hotels  and  boarding-houses,  at  all  prices. 

Post  Office,  in  the  Arcade^  opposite  the  U.  S.  Hotel. 

Horse  Races  in  July  and  Aug.  at  the  Race  Course^  Union  Avenue.  — 
♦Floral  Fete,  held  in  September.  — Golf  Tournament  in  August. 

Saratoga  Springs  (300  ft.),  a noted  inland  watering-place,  is 
situated  on  a level  and  monotonous  plateau  near  the  E.  edge’of 
the  State  of  New  York,  180  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  city  of  New  York 
and  12  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  Hudson.  The  saline  mineral  springs 
which  have  made  the  fame  of  the  place  are  about  30  in  number 
(see  p.  226).  The  permanent  population  of  the  town  is  about  13,000, 
but  in  the  height  of  the  season  (July  and  Aug.)  this  is  often  more 
than  quadrupled. 

The  name  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  Indian  words  meaning 
‘place  of  the  swift  water’.  The  springs  were  known  to  the  Indians  for 
centuries,  and  Jacques  Cartier  heard  of  their  virtues  in  1535.  The  first 
white  man  to  use  them  is  believed  to  have  been  Sir  William  Johnson 
(p.  232),  the  adopted  sachem  of  the  Mohawks,  who  was  brought  hither 
by  these  Indians  in  1767  and  recovered  his  health  by  drinking  the  High 
Rock  Spring  (p.  227).  Hotels  and  boarding-houses  began  to  be  erected 
early  in  the  19th  century,  and  since  then  the  progress  of  the  place 
has  been  very  rapid,  in  spite  of  its  want  of  fine  scenery  or  commercial 
advantages.  The  show  of  material  wealth  at  Saratoga  during  July  or  Aug. 
is  not  without  effect,  but  it  does  not  compete  with  either  Newport  (p.  89) 
or  Lenox  (p.  178)  in  refinement  of  luxury.  Saratoga  is  also  a popular 
place  for  ‘conventions’  of  politicians,  lawyers,  bankers,  etc.  — Large  quan- 
tities of  the  water  are  exported  to  all  par's  of  the  United  States  and 
Europe.  — The  battle  of  Saratoga  (Oct.,  1777),  resulting  in  the  surrender 
of  Sir  John  Burgoyne  to  the  Americans,  was  fought  some  distance  to  the 
S.  of  the  Springs  (see  p.  227). 

The  Hotels  of  Saratoga  afford  accommodation  for  about  20,000  visitors. 
The  two  at  the  head  of  the  list  are  among  the  largest  hotels  in  the  world ; 
and  a visit  to  their  enormous  ball-rooms,  dining-rooms,  'and  piazzas  should 
not  be  omitted.  The  dining-room  of  the  Grand  Union  is  275  ft.  long. 

Most  of  the  Springs  lie  in  a shallow  valley  stretching  to  the  N.E. 
from  Broadway  (see  p.  226),  and  rise  through  a fault  in  the  underlying 

Baedeker's  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  15 


226  Route  26 


SARATOGA. 


Broadway. 


rock  (slate  limestone,  and  sandstone),  the  S.  strata  being  tilted  above 
those  to  the  N.  Some  are  chalybeate , others  contain  iodine  or  sulphur, 
and  all  are  strongly  impregnated  with  carbonic  acid  gas.  Their  tem- 
perature is  usually  46-50°  and  most  of  them  are  pleasant  to  drink.  They 
are  both  tonic  and  cathartic  in  working,  and  are  considered  efficacious  in 
dyspepsia,  liver  complaints,  calculus,  rheumatism,  etc.  They  should  not 
be  too  freely  indulged  in  without  medical  advice,  A charge  of  5 c.  is  made 
at  almost  all  the  spring-houses. 

Broadway,  tlie  principal  street  of  Saratoga,  containing  tlie  chief 
hotels,  the  best  shops  , and  the  finest  private  residences  , runs  N. 
and  S.  for  a distance  of  3 M.  and  is  shaded  by  fine  elms.  Most  of 
the  springs  are  in  or  near  it.  Proceeding  to  the  right  (S.)  from 
the  TJ.  S.  Hotel  we  soon  reach , to  the  left , Spring  St.,  just  to  the 
N.  of  Congress  Hall  (p.  225),  with  the  Hathorn  Spring,  a saline 
spring  containing  bicarbonate  of  lithia.  To  the  S.  of  Congress  Hail 
is  Congress  Spring  Park,  a prettily  laid  out  little  park  (adm.  5 c.), 
with  a small  deer-paddock.  Near  the  entrance  are  Congress  Spring 
(saline,  with  magnesia;  resembling  the  Kissingen  Rakoczy)  and 
Columbian  Spring  (chalybeate),  the  former  the  most  widely  known 
of  the  Saratoga  waters  and  extensively  used  as  a cathartic  in 
bilious  disorders.  A band  plays  in  the  park  thrice  daily,  and 
Sunday  and  other  concerts  are  given.  — Behind  Congress  Hall  is 
the  Hamilton  Spring  (similar  to  the  Columbian),  and  a little  to  the 
N.,  in  Philadelphia  St.,  are  the  handsome  Saratoga  Baths  (Turkish, 
Russian,  and  other  baths)  and  the  Patterson  Spring  (cathartic).  Con- 
tinuing to  follow  Broadway  towards  the  S. , we  reach  (left)  the 
Convention  Hall,  erected  for  the  conventions  mentioned  at  p.  225 
(5000  seats).  Adjacent  is  the  *Pompeia  (adm.  25  c. ; closed  on  Sun.), 
a reproduction  of  the  House  of  Pansa  at  Pompeii  (destroyed  A.D.  79), 
erected  by  Mr.  Franklin  W.  Smith  (comp.  p.  448).  The  Art  Gallery 
annexed  to  the  Pompeia  contains  many  engravings  and  other 
illustrations  of  art  and  history.  Washington  Spring  rises  opposite. 
— Ballston  Avenue,  a little  farther  on,  leads  to  the  right,  passing 
an  Indian  Camp  (baskets,  etc.,  for  sale),  to  (IV4  M.)  Geyser  Park 
and  Lake,  with  the  Geyser  or  Spouting  Spring  (rising  from  a depth 
of  132  ft.).  The  Saratoga  Vichy,  the  Saratoga  Kissingen  (both  al- 
kaline), the  Champion  Spouting  Spring,  the  Carlsbad  Spring  (saline 
and  cathartic),  the  Adirondack,  and  the  Lafayette  Spring  (cathartic) 
are  in  the  same  neighbourhood. 

Following  North  Broadway  to  the  left  (N.)  from  the  U.  S.  Hotel, 
we  pass  the  Town  Hall  (right)  and  reach  a part  of  the  street  lined  with 
handsome  private  residences.  At  (3/4  M.)  Third  Street  we  turn  to 
the  left  and  reach  the  entrance  to  Woodlawn  Park,  a fine  expanse 
of  1200  acres,  open  to.  the  public. 

The  park  is  traversed  by  walks  and  drives  in  all  directions.  The 
trimmer  part  near  the  houses,  ornamented  with  dubious  statuary , is  l^s 
attractive  than  the  wilder  part,  to  the  N.  Views  are  obtained  ol  the 
Catskills  (S.),  the  Green  Mts.  (E.),  and  the  foothills  of  the  Adirondacks 
(N.).  — We  may  continue  our  walk  through  the  park  to  (2^/2  M.)  Olen 
Mitchell,  with  a Roman  Catholic  college,  and  return  by  Broadway. 


Saratoga  Lake. 


SARATOGA. 


^6.  Route.  227 


Returning  along  Broadway,  we  turn  to  the  left  at  Rock  St., 
cross  the  railway,  and  reach  a group  of  springs  in  Spring  Avenue. 

The  High  Rock  Spring , the  earliest  known  (comp.  p.  *225),  bubbles 
from  a conical  rock,  81/2  ft.  high,  formed  by  its  deposits.  Below  is  the 
Star  Spring.  To  the  S.  are  the  Seltzer  Spring.^  the  Magnetic  Spring  (baths), 
the  Flat  Rock  or  Imperial  Spring  (behind  the  Town  Hall),  the  Pavilion 
Spring.^  and  the  Royal  Spring  (600  ft.  deep).  To  the  N.  are  the  Empire  Spring 
the  P\-ed  Spring  and  Bath  House  (with  a large  proportion  of  iron  5 useful  for 
affections  of  the  skin),  and  the  Saratoga  '"A'  Spring. 

Following  Spring  Avenue  towards  the  N.E.,  we  reach  (3/4  M.)  the 
Excelsior  Spring  Hotel  (p.  225 ; left),  opposite  which  is  the  entrance 
to  the  Excelsior  Spring  and  Bottling  Works , prettily  situated  in 
Excelsior  Park,  near  which  is  the  Union  Spring.  — About  f/4  M.  to 
the  E.  are  the  White  Sulphur  Spring  (baths)  and  Eureka  Spring. 
— We  may  now  return  towards  Broadway  by  one  of  the  paths  through 
the  pretty  patch  of  woodland  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Excelsior  Spring, 
emerging  (10  min.)  upon  East  Avenue.  Here  we  turn  to  the  left 
and  then  follow  Lake  Avenue  (right),  past  the  handsome  Armoury, 
the  Academy,  and  the  Boston  ^ Maine  Railroad  Station,  to  (6  min.) 
Broadway.  — The  highly  effervescent  Lincoln  Spring,  1 M.  from 
Monument  Square,  was  discovered  in  1896. 

Environs.  The  favourite  short  Drive  from  Saratoga  is  that  to  "Sara- 
toga Lake,  4 M.  to  the  S.E.  We  follow  Union  Avenue,  which  leads  to 
the  left  from  Broadway  at  Congress  Hall.  On  the  left  we  pass  another 
Indian  Camp  and  on  the  right  the  Racecourse,  one  of  the  best  tracks  in 
the  United  States,  and  Yaddo.,  the  residence  of  Mr.  Spencer  Trask,  to  the 
beautiful  grounds  of  which  visitors  are  admitted.  The  lake,  on  which  small 
steamers  ply,  isTM.  long  and  is  frequented  for  boating  and  fishing.  Near 
its  N.  end  is  the  Lake  House  (formerly  Moon's),  a favourite  resort  for  game 
and  fish  dinners  and  for  ‘Saratoga  Chips’  (fried  potatoes  5 sold  in  paper 
packets  or  served  with  meals).  An  electric  tramway  (fare  10  c.)  runs  from 
near  the  Grand  Union  Hotel  to  Saratoga  Lake.  Adjoining  the  lake  is 
Kaydeross  Park.  — Gridley"'s  Ponds,  a fishing-preserve  near  the  racecourse, 
are  much  frequented  by  ladies  and  others  (fee  $ 1 per  pound  of  trout 
caught).  — One  of  the  most  popular  drives  from  Saratoga  is  that  to  (10  M.) 
the  top  of  Mt.  McGregor  (1200  ft.),  which  commands  an  exquisite  "^View, 
and  is  surmounted  by  the  cottage  in  which  Gen.  Ulysses  Grant  died  in  18b5 
(now  State  property  and  shown  to  the  public).  — Ballston  Spa  (7  M. ; 
p.  184),  Round  Lake  (12  M.),  and  Lake  Luzerne  (see  p.  224  ^ 20  M.)  may  be 
reached  by  road  or  railway^  and  longer  excursions  may  be  made  to  the 
Adirondacks  (p.  209),  Lake  George  (see  below).  Lake  Champlain  etc. 

A branch  of  the  B.  & M.  Railroad  runs  to  (12  M.)  Schuylerville  (Hot. 
Schuyler,  Schuylerville  Ho.,  $ 2),  whence  the  Battlefield  of  Saratoga  (p.  225), 
with  its  national  monument,  may  be  visited.  Memorial  tablets  mark  the 
chief  points  of  the  battle-ground,  and  there  is  a collection  of  relics  in 
the  Schuyler  Mansion  Museum. 


27.  Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain. 

*Lake  George  (325  ft.),  a picturesque  sheet  of  water  in  the  State 
of  New  York,  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Adirondack  Mts.  (p.  209),  is  33  M. 
long  from  N.  to  S.  and  3/4-3  M.  wide.  It  is  flanked  on  both  sides 
by  wooded  mountains , sometimes  descending  to  the  water  in  bold 
crags , and  is  dotted  with  pretty  islands  (220  in  all).  It  is  some- 

15* 


228  Route  27. 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


times  called , perhaps  with  more  zeal  than  discretion , the  Como, 
the  Windermere,  or  the  Loch  Lomond  of  America.  At  the  N.  end 
it  discharges  into  Lake  Champlain,  225  ft.  below  it,  from  which  it 
is  separated  by  a ridge  4 M.  wide. 

Lake  George  has  long  been  a favourite  summer- resort,  and  there  are 
many  hotels,  large  and  small,  on  its  hanks,  while  camp-life  is  also  in  high 
favour.  It  is  usually  approached  by  the  route  to  Caldwell  described  at 
p.  184  j and  a steamer  plies  twice  daily  thence  in  272-3  hrs.  to  Baldwin^ 
at  the  foot  of  the  lake  (fare  $1.50^  restaurant  on  board,  meals  $ 

The  ‘Sagamore’  is  the  best  boat.  Fair  fishing  for  lake-trout,  perch,  and 
bass  is  obtained  in  the  lake  (boat  with  fisherman  $ 3 a day).  — See  S.  R. 
Stoddard's  ‘Lake  George  and  Lake  Champlain’  (25  c.)^  and  comp.  Francis 
Farlcman''s  ‘Historic  Handbook  of  the  Northern  Tour’. 

Lake  George  was  first  seen  by  white  men  in  1642,  when  three 
Frenchmen,  including  the  Jesuit  Jogues,  were  brought  hither  as  captives 
of  the  Iroquois.  Father  Jogues  named  it  the  Lac  du  Saint  Sacrement; 
the  Indian  name  was  Andiatarocie  (‘place  where  the  lake  closes’),  and 
Cooper  tried  in  vain  to  attach  to  it  the  romantic  title  of  Lake  Horican 
(‘silvery  waters’).  The  present  name  was  given  to  it  in  honour  of 
George  II.  The  position  of  Lake  George  on  the  highway  between  the 
English  colonies  and  Canada  gave  it  a prominent  role  in  the  Anglo-French 
struggles  of  the  17-18th  cent.,  and  more  than  one  battle  has  been  fought 
on  or  near  its  vraters  (comp,  below  and  p.  229).  Its  associations  with 
the  romances  of  Cooper  lend  it  an  additional  interest. 

Caldwell  [Fort  William  Henry  Hotels  a large  house  with  800 
beds,  $272-0;  Lake  House  ^ $3-4;  Worden^  $^72;  Carpenter, 
Arlington,  $ 2),  the  terminus  of  the  railway  mentioned  at  p.  184, 
is  a small  village,  beautifully  situated  at  the  head  (S.  end)  of  Lake 
George , and  much  frequented  as  a summer-resort  (good  boating 
and  fishing).  It  lies  at  the  E.  base  of  Prospect  Mt.  (2020  ft.;  Pro- 
spect Mt.  Ho.),  which  is  ascended  by  an  inclined  railway  (disused 
at  present).  To  the  E.  rises  French  Mt.  (1520  ft.). 

The  Fort  William  Henry  Hotel  stands  near  the  site  of  the  old  Fort 
William  Henry.^  built  by  the  English  in  1T55  to  command  the  head  of  the 
lake.  Two  years  later  it  was  captured  by  General  Montcalm  at  the  head 
of  8000  men  ^ and  the  massacre  of  1500  helpless  men,  women,  and  children 
by  his  Indian  allies  has  left  an  indelible  stain  on  the  memory  of  that 
gallant  Frenchman  (see  the  descriptions  in  Cooper's  ‘Last  of  the  Mohicans’ 
and  in  Parkman).  A few  relies  of  the  fort  subsist.  — About  1/2  M.  to  the 
E.  are  the  picturesque  ruins  of  Fort  George.,  dating  from  1759.  — It  was 
at  this  spot  that  the  army  of  Gen.  Abercrombie  started  in  a fleet  of  boats 
for  its  disastrous  expedition  against  Fort  Ticonderoga  (1758  5 see  Cooper's 
‘Satanstoe’) , and  a year  later  Lord  Amherst  set  out  hence  with  the  army 
that  finally  expelled  the  French  from  Lakes  George  and  Champlain. 

The  Steamee,  down  the  lake  leaves  Caldwell  after  touching  at 
various  hotel-landings  and  crosses  to  the  Crosbyside  Hotel  ($  272--4), 
at  the  foot  of  French  Mt.  On  the  same  side,  1 M.  to  the  N. , is 
8t.  Mary's  Convent,  the  summer-retreat  of  the  Paulist  Fathers  of 
New  York. 

We  pass  Tea  Island,  Diamond  Island,  and  Long  Island.  To  the 
right  are  Kattskill  Bay  and  Pilot  Mt.,  at  the  foot  of  which  are  some 
small  hotels  frequented  by  anglers  ($  172”^  day).  Opposite 
is  the  Marion  House  ($3-4). 

873  M.  Buck  Mt.  (2335  ft.).  — The  steamer  steers  between 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


27.  Route.  229 


Dome  Island  (r.)  , in  tlie  widest  part  of  the  lake  , and  Recluse  Is- 
land (1.),  connected  by  a bridge  with  the  tiny  Sloop  Island. 

9^2  (loft).  Bolton  (*^apamor€ , situated  on  an  island  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  by  a bridge,  from  $ 4 ; Algonquin.^  Lake 
View  Ho..,  $2-3),  the  largest  village  on  the  lake  after  Caldwell,  is 
a good  centre  for  excursions.  Black  Mt.  (see  below)  stands  out  well 
to  the  E.N.E.  Above  Bolton  extends  Ganouskie  or  North  West  Bay., 
5 M.  long,  formed  by  a tongue  of  land  jutting  out  southwardly  into 
the  middle  of  the  lake. 

11-12  M.  (r.)  Shelving  Rock  Mt.  (1135  ft.;  Pearl  Point  Ho., 
$2V2'3),  descending  abruptly  into  the  lake. 

Off  the  shore  is  Fourteen  Mile  Island  (TheKenesaw,  $ 2^2)?  stt  the 
entrance  to  the  ^Narrows,  between  Tongue  Mt.,  Three  Mile  Mt.,  and 
Five  Mile  Mt.  (2260  ft.)  to  the  left,  and  Mt.  Erebus  and  the  sombre 
Black  Mt.  (2660  ft. ; *View)  to  the  right.  The  Narrows  are  crowded 
with  islands,  through  which  the  steamboat  holds  a devious  course. 

13  M.  (r.)  Paradise  Bay,  a favourite  goal  of  small  excursion 
steamers. 

14  M.  (r.)  Black  Mt.  Point  (to  top  of  Black  Mt.,  1V2'^V2  hrs.). 

17  M.  Harbor  Islands,  where  a body  of  400  English  were  sur- 
prised by  the  Indians  in  1757  and  nearly  all  killed  or  captured. 

18  M.  (1.)  Deer's  Leap  Mt.  — (r.)  Hulett's  Landing  (Hotel,  $ 2^2)? 
whence  Black  Mt.  is  ascended  from  the  N. 

181/2  M.  (1.)  Bloomer  Mt.,  forming,  with  Deeres  Leap  Mt.,  the 
Twin  Mts.,  as  seen  from  the  N. 

19  M.  (1.)  *Sabbath  Day  Point  {Hotel,  $ 11/2))  ^ fertile  cape  at 
the  outlet  of  the  Narrows,  was  the  scene  of  a battle  between  the 
Colonists  and  the  Indians  and  French  in  1756  and  between  the 
Americans  and  the  Indians  in  1776,  in  both  of  which  the  first- 
named  won.  Generals  Abercrombie  and  Amherst  (see  p.  228)  both 
landed  here.  Good  view  up  and  down  the  lake. 

21  M.  (1.)  Silver  Bay  (Silver  Bay  Ho.,  Uncas,  $ 21/2). 

26  m.  (1.)  Hague  {Phoenix  Hotel,  $21/2;  Hillside  Ho.,  Rising 
Ho.,  Trout  Ho.,  $11/2-2),  a favourite  fishing-resort,  backed  by  the 
ridge  of  the  Three  Brothers.  — The  lake  again  contracts. 

28  M.  (r.)  Anthony's  Nose,  rising  abruptly  from  the  water’s  edge. 
Opposite  is  Indian  Kettles  Park , with  the  Lake  George  Country 
Club  House. 

30  M.  (1.)  Rogers  Slide  (1080  ft.)  and  * Rogers'  Rock  Hotel  ($  3-4). 

32  M.  (1.) Baldwin  (Ha^dtymLTo.,  $2),  where  we  leave  the  steamer 
for  the  train.  Lord  Howe's  Point,  just  to  the  N.,  was  the  landing- 
place  of  the  English  army  in  1758.  Offshore  lies  Prisoners  Island, 
where  the  French  are  said  to  have  confined  their  captives. 

Fe,om  Baldwin  to  Fort  Ticonderoga,  5 M.,  railway  in  1/2  hr. 
(fare  75  c.).  This  short  railway,  connecting  Lake  George  with  Lake 
Champlain,  descends  rapidly  (245  ft.)  round  the  slope  oiMt.  Defiance 


230  Route  27. 


LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 


(see  below).  At  the  village  of  Ticonderoga  (Burleigh  Ho.  $ 21/2-3^2) 
Exchange  Ho.,  $ 2),  about  halfway,  the  outlet  of  Lake  George  forms 
a picturesque  waterfall  (left).  — Fort  Ticonderoga,  see  below. 

*Lake  Champlain  (100  ft.),  118  M.  in  length,  ^4"!^  width, 
and  50-400  ft.  deep,  lies  between  New  York  on  theW.  andYermont 
on  the  E.  and  extends  on  the  N.  for  a short  way  into  Canada.  Its 
shore-line  is  indented  by  numerous  bays  and  inlets,  and  there  are 
about  fifty  islands,  one  of  which  is  30  sq.  M.  in  extent.  The  Yer- 
mont  shore  is  generally  level  and  fertile,  with  the  Green  Mts.  in  the 
background,  while  the  W.  shore  is  broken  and  diversified  by  the 
foothills  of  the  Adirondacks.  Besides  the  city  of  Burlington  (p.  149) 
there  are  numerous  towns  and  villages  on  its  banks.  A considerable 
navigation  is  carried  on  on  its  waters,  and  it  communicates  with  the 
Hudson  by  a canal  and  with  the  St.  Lawrence  by  the  river  Richelieu. 

The  name  of  the  lake  recalls  Samuel  de  Champlain,  Governor  of 
Canada,  who  discovered  it  in  1609.  Its  Indian  names  were  Ganiaderi 
Quaranti  (‘gate  of  the  land’)  and  Feiouhouque  (‘waters  that  lie  between’). 
Like  Lake  George,  it  was  for  a century  and  a half  the  scene  of  repeated 
conflicts  between  the  English  and  the  French;  and  in  1759  it  finally  passed 
into  the  possession  of  the  former.  The  most  interesting  contests  arc 
mentioned  below  in  connection  with  their  scenes  of  action. 

Steamboats  (good  restaurants  on  board)  ply  regularly  from  Fori 
Ticonderoga  (see  below)  to  Plattshurg  {g.  185;  5^/3  hrs. ; fare  $2.05),  calling 
at  all  important  intermediate  points;  from  Westport  (p.  214)  to  Burlington 
(p.  149),  Flattsburg^  South  and  North  Hero  (p.  150),  and  St.  Alban"' s Bay  (p.  232 ; 
6 hrs.);  from  Burlington  to  St.  Alhan''s  Bay  (472  hrs.):  and  from  Westport 
to  Vergennes  (p.  149;  woman-pilot).  The  Plattsburg  boat  (Yermonf)  is  the 
newest  of  the  steamers.  — For  the  Railways  along  the  banks  of  the  lake 
and  across  the  islands,  see  RR.  15,  20. 

The  S.  extremity  of  Lake  Champlain,  from  Whitehall  (p.  184) 
to  (24  M.)  Fort  Ticonderoga,  is  so  narrow  as  to  resemble  a river 
rather  than  a lake,  and  has  been  sufficiently  described  in  R.  20  b. 
Steamboat-  navigation  begins  at  Fort  Ticonderoga. 

Fort  Ticonderoga  {Fort  Ticonderoga  Hotel,  near  the  old  fort, 
$ 2)  is  a railway-station  and  steamboat-landing  on  the  W.  side  of 
Lake  Champlain,  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Defiance  (850  ft. ; *Yiew).  Tike 
village  of  Ticonderoga  (see  above)  lies  2 M.  inland,  while  the  ruins 
of  Fort  Ticonderoga  (see  below)  crown  a high  bluff  1^2  M.  to  the  N. 

Fort  Carillon^  the  first  regular  fortification  here,  was  built  by  the 
French  in  1755.  In  1758  General  Abercrombie  (see  p.  228)  made  an  un- 
successful effort  to  capture  it,  and  had  to  retreat  up  Lake  George,  with 
the  loss  of  Lord  Howe  and  2000  men.  The  following  year,  however,  the 
French  evacuated  it  on  the  approach  of  Lord  Amherst  (see  p.  228),  and 
the  English  considerably  strengthened  and  enlarged  it,  changing  its  name 
to  Fort  Ticonderoga.  In  1775  the  fort  was  taken  by  Green  Mountain 
Boys  led  by  Col.  Ethan  Allen  of  Vermont,  who  surprised  the  unsus- 
pecting commandant  in  his  bed  and  called  on  him  to  surrender  ‘in  the 
name  of  the  Great  Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Congress’.  Gen.  Burgoyne, 
however,  recaptured  it  in  1777  with  the  aid  of  a battery  posted  on  the 
top  of  Mt.  Defiance.  The  fort  was  dismantled  in  1780  and  allowed  to 
fall  into  decay.  It  long  formed  a quarry  for  the  buildings  of  the  neighbour- 
hood ; but  its  scanty  remains,  from  which  a fine  view  is  obtained,  are 
now  preserved  as  a national  memorial. 

At  Fort  Ticonderoga  tbe  lake  is  barely  Y2  '^ide,  and  it  does 


LA.KE  CHAMPLAIN. 


27.  Route.  231 


not  widen  materially  till  beyond  Crown  Point.  The  Steamer  makes 
its  first  stop  at  Larrahee's  Point  (right)  and  then  crosses  the  lake 
to  (10  M.)  the  landing  of  Crown  Point  (left;  Lake  Ho.,  $ 2),  1 M. 
to  the  E.  of  the  village.  A short  railway  runs  to  (13  M.)  Ham- 
mondville^  connecting  by  stage  with  Schroon  Lake  (p.  224).  About 
5^/2  M.  farther  on  we  thread  the  narrows  between  Chimney  Point, 
on  the  right,  and  *Crown  Point,  on  the  left,  the  latter  surmounted 
by  a lighthouse  and  the  ramparts  of  the  old  fort. 

The  French  Fort  Frederick,  erected  on  this  point  in  1731,  was  abandoned 
at  the  same  time  as  Fort  Ticonderoga  (p.  230).  The  English  constructed 
a much  larger  and  more  formidable  fortification,  which,  like  Ft.Ticonderoga, 
was  taken  by  Ethan  Allen  in  1775  and  by  Burgoyne  in  1777, 

Beyond  the  narrows  the  lake  widens  to  2 M.  Behind  Crown 
Point  is  Balwagga  Bay,  the  shore  of  which  is,  perhaps,  the  point 
where  Champlain  fought  with  the  Iroquois  in  1609. 

19  M.  (1.)  Port  Henry  (Lee  House,  $2-3),  a prettily  situated 
village,  whence  a railroad  runs  to  (7  M.)  Mineville , 19  M.  from 
Schroon  River  Post  Office  (p.  224).  A fine  view  of  Mt.  Dix  (p.  219) 
and  other  Adirondack  peaks  is  now  obtained  to  the  left. 

30  M.  (1.)  Westport,  in  North  West  Bay,  one  of  the  approaches 
to  the  Adirondacks  (see  p.  214).  — Farther  on  *8plU  Rock  Mt. 
(1035  ft. ; lighthouse)  rises  to  the  left,  while  opposite  is  the  mouth  of 
the  Otter  Creek. 

40  M.  (1.)  Essex.  The  steamer  now  soon  enters  the  widest  part 
of  the  lake  and  steers  to  the  N.E.,  passing  the  Four  Brothers  and 
Juniper  Island  (lighthouse).  To  the  left  lies  Willsboro  Point. 

54  M.  (r.)  Burlington,  see  p.  149.  This  beautiful  city  is  seen 
to  great  advantage  from  the  lake.  — From  Burlington  the  steamer 
runs  nearly  straight  across  the  lake  to  — 

64  M.  (1.)  Port  Kent  {Tremhleau  Hall,  $2^2;  Lake  Side  Ho., 
$2;  *Douglass,  on  Douglass  Bay,  4 M.  to  the  S.,  $2^2))  fli®  station 
for  the  *Ausahle  Chasm  (see  p.  214).  The  Ausable  River  enters  the 
lake  2^/2  M.  farther  on. 

70  M.  (1.)  Port  Jackson,  on  the  narrow  channel  between  the 
mainland  and  Valcour  Island,  where  a hotly  contested  naval  battle 
took  place  between  Arnold  and  Pringle  in  1776,  resulting  in  the 
destruction  of  the  American  fleet. 

Beyond  this  point  the  lake  is  divided  into  two  branches  by  the 
large  islands  of  Grand  Isle  or  South  Hero  (30  sq.  M.)  and  North  Hero 
and  the  promontory  of  Alburgh  (railway-route  over  the  islands,  see 
p.  150).  Our  steamer  follows  the  left  (W.)  arm.  On  Bluff  Point 
(1,),  31/2  M.  beyond  Port  Jackson,  stands  the  magnificently  situated 
*Hotel  Champlain  (200  ft. ; $ 5),  one  of  the  most  luxurious  hotels 
in  the  United  States,  commanding  fine  views  of  the  Adirondacks, 
Lake  Champlain,  and  the  Green  Mts.  Its  grounds,  450  acres  in 
extent,  include  a good  golf-course  (9  holes). 

77  M.  (1.)  Plattsburg  (see  p.  185),  in  Cumberland  Bay,  one 
of  the  main  gateways  to  the  Adirondacks. 


232  Route  28, 


SCHENECTADY. 


From  New  York 


In  1814  Cumberland  Bay  was  the  scene  of  the  Battle  of  Plattshurg^ 
in  which  Commodore  Macdonough  defeated  the  British  fleet  under  Com- 
modore Downie.  At  the  same  time  Gen.  Macomb,  in  command  of  the 
land-forces,  repelled  Sir  George  Prevost’s  attempt  to  capture  Plattsburg. 

Plattsburg  is  the  terminus  of  the  Lake  Champlain  Transportation 
Co.’s  steamer  from  Fort  Ticonderoga,  but  the  W estport  steamer  (comp, 
p.  230)  ascends  to  8t.  Alharis  Bay^  touching  at  various  landings  on 
the  islands.  The  fishing  at  this  end  of  the  lake  is  excellent,  and 
accommodation  may  be  had  at  various  small  hotels,  farm-houses, 
and  camps  (comp.  p.  150). 

28.  From  New  York  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls, 

a.  Vi^  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  Kiver  Railroad. 

462  M.  Bail  WAT  to  (440  M.)  Buffalo  in  8V4-14V2  brs.  (fare  $ 9.25;  sleeper 
$2;  parlor-car  $2);  to  (462  M.;  446  M.  by  direct  route,  see  p.  238)  Niagara 
Falls  in  9-151/2  hrs.  (fares  the  same).  Seats  to  the  left.  The  ‘Empire  State 
Express’,  leaving  New  York  at  8.30  a.m.,  runs  at  the  rate  of  over  50  M.  an 
hour,  including  stops. 

From  New  York  to  (143  M.)  Albany^  seepp.  191-196.  The  train  now 
turns  to  the  left  (W.)  and  leaves  the  Hudson,  146  M.  West  Albany. 

160  m.  Schenectady  (245  ft.  j Edison,  $2-4;  Vendome,  $2-2V2), 
a quaint  old  town  of  Dutch  foundation,  situated  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Mohawk,  with  various  manufactories  and  a trade  in  broom- 
corn,  hops,  and  butter.  Pop.  (1900)  31,682.  It  was  the  scene  of 
two  horrible  massacres  in  the  Colonial  wars.  Union  College  (1795) 
stands  to  the  E.  of  the  city.  At  Schenectady  we  intersect  the  Del. 
& Hudson  R.  R.  (N.  to  Saratoga,  S.  to  Binghamton;  comp.  p.  242). 

The  train  now  crosses  the  river  and  the  Erie  Canal  (Union  Col- 
lege to  the  right)  and  ascends  the  smiling  pastoral  Valley  of  the 
Mohawk,  formerly  the  stamping-ground  of  the  Indian  tribe  of  that 
name  (see  p.  233;  comp.  ‘The  Mohawk  Valley’,  by  W,  Max  Reid}, 
Evidences  of  rustic  comfort  and  fertility  abound  on  every  side.  The 
Catskills  are  visible  in  the  distance  to  the  S.,  and  the  outliers  of  the 
Adirondacks  appear  to  the  N.  Broom-corn  is  one  of  the  characteristic 
crops,  the  brooms  being  made  mainly  by  the  Shakers,  who  have 
several  settlements  in  the  lower  valley. 

176  m.  Amsterdam  (280  ft.),  an  industrial  city  of  20,929  in- 
habitants. To  the  left  we  see  the  shrine  at  Auriesville  (p.  242), 
marking  the  spot  where  the  Jesuit  missionary  Jogues  (p.  228)  was 
killed  in  1646  (fine  view).  182  M.  Tribes  Hill,  an  old  meeting- 
place  of  the  Indians.  — From  (187  M.)  Fonda  a branch  runs  to 
(26  M.)  Northville, 

Johnstown  (Kolaneka-,  $2),  on  this  railway,  3 M.  to  tbe  N.,  was  the 
residence  of  Bir  William  Johnson  (d.  1774;  comp.  p.  225),  one  of  the  pioneers 
of  the  valley,  who  acquired  great  influence  with  the  Mohawks  and  was 
made  one  of  their  sachems.  He  was  created  a baronet  for  his  victory  at 
Lake  George  (see  p.  184),  and  received  a large  grant  of  land  here  for  his 
subsequent  services.  He  was  the  father  of  100  children  by  his  Indian  and 
white  mistresses,  one  of  whom  was  a sister  of  the  famous  Mohawk  chief, 
Joseph  Brant,  His  strong  stone  mansion  still  stands. 


to  Buffalo, 


UTICA. 


^8,  Route.  233 


The  Mohawks  were,  perhaps,  the  best  known  of  the  Indian  tribes  which 
formed  the  confederation  known  as  the  Five  Nations,,  occupying  the  great 
Lake  District  of  New  York.  The  other  members  of  the  league,  named 
from  E.  to  W.,  were  the  Oneidas.,  Onondagas.,  Cayugas,  and  Senecas.  The 
Tuscaroras  from  Carolina  were  afterwards  admitted  to  the  league,  which 
then  took  the  name  of  the  Six  Nations.  The  confederacy  had  about  15,000 
members,  and  perhaps  10-12,000  still  exist,  the  majority  in  Canada,  the  others 
in  reservations  in  New  York,  where  they  live  as  peaceable  farmers. 

From  (198  M.)  Palatine  Bridge  (305  ft.)  coaclies  run  to  (14  M.) 
Sharon  Springs  (p.  201).  To  the  left,  farther  on,  is  seen  the  red- 
brick Herkimer  Mansion,,  with  a monument  to  Nicholas  Herkimer, 
who  died  in  1777  of  wounds  received  at  Oriskany  (p.  234). 

217  M.  Little  Falls  (375  ft.  ; Qirvan  Ho.,  $2-21/2),  a small 
manufacturing  town  with  10,381  inhah.,  romantically  situated  in  a 
narrow  *Gorge  cut  hy  the  Mohawk  through  a spur  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks.  The  river,  the  N.  Y.  C.  and  West  Shore  railways,  and  the 
Erie  Canal  can  barely  make  their  way  through  the  pass  side  hy 
side.  The  Mohawk  here  descends  45  ft.  in  1/2  M.,  forming  a series 
of  pretty  little  falls,  and  the  houses  cling  picturesquely  to  the  steep 
rocky  sides  of  the  defile.  This  gorge  affords  an  excellent  opportunity 
of  studying  the  crystalline  rocks  of  the  Laurentian  formation,  part 
of  the  oldest  dry  land  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  Richfield  Springs 
(p.  234)  is  12  M.  to  the  S.  — Farther  on  we  cross  the  Canada 
Creek  and  reach  (224  M.)  Herkimer  (Palmer  Ho.,  Waverley,  $2- 
21/2;  5555  inhab.),  where  connection  is  made  with  the  Adiron- 
dack Division  (see  p.  221),  though  the  principal  through -trains 
run  via  Utica  (comp.  p.  221). 

Beyond  (226  M.)  llion  (400  ft.),  a pretty  village  to  the  left, 
with  a small-arms  factory,  the  train  crosses  the  river  and  canal. 

238  M.  Utica  (410  ft. ; Butterfield,  from  $3;  Baggs,  $ 2Y2-'^; 
James,  $2-3;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a prosperous  town  and  headquar- 
ters of  the  American  cheese  trade,  with  56,383  inhab.,  lies  on  the 
S.  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  on  the  site  of  Fort  Schuyler  (1756).  To 
the  W.  is  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum.  Genesee  Street  is  a handsome 
thoroughfare.  A tablet  commemorates  the  visit  of  Lafayette  in  1825. 

From  Utica  to  Malone  (Adirondacks),  see  R.  25d. 

From  Utica  to  Ogdensburg,  134  M.,  railway  in  5-5V2  hrs.  (fare  $ 4.21). 
This  line  runs  to  the  N.,  connecting  Utica  with  Lake  Ontario  and  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  forming  part  of  a favourite  through  - route  from  New 
York  to  the  Thousand  Islands  (p.  255).  — The  train  crosses  the  Mohawk. 
17  M.  Trenton  Falls  Station  (840ft.  •,  Hotel  Trenton,  $3;  Trenton  Falls  Hotel, 
$ 2)  is  about  1/2  M.  from  the  ^Trenton  Falls,  a scene  of  mingled  gran- 
deur and  beauty,  which  is  by  no  means  so  well  or  widely  known  as 
it  deserves.  ^ The  West  Canada  or  Kahnata  (‘amber-water’)  Creek,  the  Kauya- 
hoora  (‘leaping  water’)  of  the  Indians,  here  forms  a highly  picturesque 
ravine,  with  abrupt  rocky  sides,  through  which,  within  2 M.,  the  water 
descends  310  ft.  in  a charming  series  of  five  main  falls  and  innumerable 
rapids.  The  stratification  of  the  limestone  rocks  is  very  clearly  defined, 
exposing  the  geological  and  the  fossil  organic  remains  to  full  view  5 and 
an  abundance  of  interesting  fossils,  including  innumerable  trilobites,  have 
been  found.  The  name  of  the  Trenton  formation  is  taken  from  this  place. 
We  descend  (fee  25c.)  to  the  floor  of  the  ravine  by  a staircase  near  the 
Hotel  Trenton  and  walk  up  past  the  singular  ’^^Sherman  Falls  (35  ft.*),  the 


234  Route  28. 


ROME. 


From  New  York 


*High  Falls  (80  ft.),  the  *Mill  Dam  Falls  (15  ft.),  the  rocky  amphitheatre 
called  the  Alhambra.,  the  curious  formation  named  the  Rocky  Heart.,  and 
the  Prospect  Falls  (20  ft.).  We  may  then  return  to  the  hotel  (2^/2  M.)  by 
a path  along  the  top  of  the  cliffs,  affording  fine  *Views  of  the  chasm.  — At 
(21  M.)  Remsen  we  part  company  with  the  line  to  Malone  (see  p.  221).  Beyond 
(35  M.)  Boonville  we  ascend  the  valley  of  the  Black  River.  45  M.  Lyons 
Falls  (845  ft. ; falls  to  the  right,  70  ft.  high)  ^ 58  M.  Lowville  (Rail.  Restaurant). 

— 74  M.  Carthage  (740  ft.  *,  Kenmore,  $ 2)  is  the  junction  of  lines  E.  to  Benson 

Mines  and  Newton  Falls  in  the  Adirondacks  (near  Cranberry  Lake)  and  W.  to 
Watertown  (see  below)  and  (SOM.)  SacketCs  Harbor  (455  ft.;  Eveleigh  Ho., 
$2),  on  Lake  Ontario.  — At  (87  M.)  Philadelphia  we  cross  the  line  from 
Rome  (see  below)  to  Massena  Springs  (p.  256).  92  M.  Theresa  Junction.,  for 

the  line  to  (16  M.)  Clayton  (p.  255),  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  — 123  M.  Morristown. 

— 134  M.  Ogdenshurg  (250  ft.),  see  p.  256. 

From  Utica  to  Binghamton,  95  M.,  Delaware.,  Lackawanna.,  & Western 
R.  R.  in  3-3-V4  hrs.  (fares  $ 2.85).  — From  (13  M.)  Richfield  Junction  a 
branch-line  runs  to  (12  Tsl .)  Richfield  Springs  (see  below;  through-cars  from 
New  York).  — 95  M.  Binghamton^  see  p.  244. 

[Richfield  Springs  (1700ft.;  Earlington.,  $4;  Fuller  Ho..,  $3;  Kendall- 
wood,  $4;  St.  James,  $2),  a group  of  hotels  and  cottages,  1 M.  from  the 
head  of  the  pretty  little  Candarago  Lake  (boating  and  fishing),  is  much 
frequented  both  for  its  picturesque  scenery  and  for  its  sulphur  springs. 
The  latter,  17  in  number,  are  especially  efficacious  in  cutaneous  disorders, 
and  are  used  both  for  drinking  and  bathing.  The  "Bath  House,  completed 
in  1890,  is  excellently  fitted  up  and  includes  a swimming-basin.  Among 
the  favourite  drives  are  those  round  Candarago  Lake  (12  M.),  to  (5  M.)  Mt. 
Otsego,  to  (3  M.)  AllerCs  Lake,  to  (15  M.)  Cooperstown  (p.  201;  electric  tram- 
way, see  p.  201),  and  to  (14  M.)  Cherry  Valley  (p.  201).  Horseback  exercise 
is,  perhaps,  the  favourite  amusement  here,  and  the  surrounding  country 
is  admirably  adapted  for  it.] 

Beyond  (244^2  M.)  Orlskany  (420  ft.)  a notice-board  to  the  left 
calls  attention  to  the  battle-ground  of  Aug.,  1777,  when  Gen.  Her- 
kimer was  defeated  and  slain  by  the  Indians  (see  p.  233).  An  obelisk 
on  the  hill  marks  the  ground.  — We  cross  the  river  and  the  canal. 

252  M.  Rome  [Stanwix  Hall,  Arlington,  $2Y2"3),  a town  of 
15,343  inhab.,  with  cheese-factories  and  rolling-mills,  occupies  the 
site  of  the  Revolutionary  Fort  Stanwix.  It  is  an  important  railway- 
junction,  and  the  Erie  Canal  is  joined  here  by  the  Black  River 
Canal  from  Lyons  Falls  (see  above). 

From  Rome  the  Rome , Watertown,  Ogdensburg  R.  R.  runs  to  the 
N.  to  (73  M.)  Watertown,  (141  M.)  Ogdensburg  (p.  256),  and  (160  M.)  Mas- 
sena Springs  (p.  256),  connecting  at  (147  M.)  Norwood  with  the  Rutland  R.  R. 
line  to  Moira  (p.224),  Malone  (p.224),  and  Rouse's  Point  (p.l85).  — Watertown 
{Woodruff,  $3-31/2;  Hardiman,  $ 2),  the  largest  town  in  N.  New  York,  with 
(1900)  21,696  inhab.,  has  extensive  manufactures  of  air-brakes,  carriage- 
works,  and  paper-mills,  and  contains  numerous  handsome  private  residences 
and  a fine  park. 

265  M.  Oneida  (Madison  Ho.,  Allen  Ho.,  $ 2). 

The  Oneida  Community,  a communistic  society  founded  by  J.  H.  Noyes 
in  1847,  lies  3 M.  from  Oneida,  but  is  now  simply  a business-corporation. 
To  the  S.  is  the  Oneida  Indian  Reservation.  About  6 M.  to  the  N.W.  is 
Oneida  Lake  (p.  344). 

Beyond  (270  M.)  Canastota  (425  ft.)  we  cross  the  Erie  Canal. 
276  M.  Chittenango  (Yates  Ho.,  $ IV2)}  the  entrance  of  the  narrow 
valley  through  which  Cazenovia  Lake  drains  into  Lake  Oneida.  — 
283  M.  Minoa.  The  train  now  enters  Syracuse,  passing  along  the 
main  street,  without  fence  or  barrier. 


to  Buffalo. 


SYRACUSE. 


25.  Monte.  235 


291  M.  Syracuse  (400  ft;  The  Yates^  $4-5,  R.  from  $1;  Van- 
derbilt Hotel,  $ 2V2-5;  Globe,  $2-3^2  j Bestaurant),  a thriving 
industrial  city  of  (1900}  108,374  inhab.,  situated  at  the  S.  end  of 
Onondaga  Lake  (365  ft. ; 6 M.  long,  II/2  M.  wide},  owed  the  be- 
ginning of  its  prosperity  to  the  salt-springs  in  the  marshes  bordering 
the  lake,  which  have  been  exploited  since  1650.  A visit  to  the 
evaporating  houses,  brine- conduits  (‘salt  logs’),  and  pumping- 
houses  is  interesting,  though  the  production  of  salt  (3,000, 000  bush- 
els yearly}  now  forms  a relatively  unimportant  item  in  the  busy  in- 
dustry of  the  city  (value  of  manufactures  in  1900,  $31,948,000}.  The 
Erie  Canal  runs  through  the  town,  a little  to  the  N.  of  the  railway. 

Among  the  most  noteworthy  buildings  are  the  ToiunJTaZ^,  Wash- 
ington St.,  in  the  Richardsonian  style;  the  Post  Office,  in  Fayette 
St. , a pleasing  relief  to  the  stereotyped  Mansard-roofed  Govern- 
ment buildings ; Syracuse  Savings  Bank,  on  the  Canal ; St.  Paul's 
Cathedral  j St.  John's  Cathedral  (R.  C.)  ; the  First  Presbyterian  Church ; 
the  First  Methodist  Church ; the  Dutch  Reformed  Church ; the  May 
Memorial  Church  (Unitarian);  the  Onondaga  Bank  Building;  the 
Carnegie  Free  Library;  the  huge  University  Block;  three  large  Hos- 
pitals; and  the  Court  House.  The  Museum  of  Fine  Arts  was  opened 
in  1897.  In  the  S.E.  part  of  the  town  are  the  handsome  buildings  of 
Syracuse  University  (2200  students,  180  professors,  5 faculties}, 
including  the  John  Crouse  College  of  Fine  Arts,  the  Lyman  Smith 
College  of  Applied  Science,  the  Hall  of  Physics,  the  Hall  of  Languages, 
the  Library  (75,000  vols. , inch  Leopold  von  Ranke’s  historical 
collection} , and  the  Holden  Observatory  (open  to  the  public  on  the 
2nd  and  4th  Tues.  of  each  month}.  The  hill  on  which  the  University 
stands  commands  a splendid  *Yiew  of  the  city,  lake,  and  hills.  Ad- 
jacent lies  Oakwood  Cemetery.  The  Medical  College  of  the  University 
occupies  a building  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  — The  handsomest 
residence  street  is  James  Street,  leading  to  the  N.E.  from  the  centre 
of  the  town.  — A Boulevard,  100  ft.  wide,  has  been  constructed 
round  Onondaga  Lake. 

Railways  radiate  from  Syracuse  to  Oswego  (p.  344),  Richland,  Ithaca 
(p.  236),  etc.  The  Oswego  Canal  here  joins  the  Erie  Canal. 

Between  Syracuse  and  Rochester  (p.  238}  the  N.  Y.  C.  & H.  R. 
R.  R.  has  two  routes : — the  Direct  Route  (80  M.},  used  by  through 
trains,  and  the  Old  Route  (104  M.)  via  Auburn,  Geneva,  and  Canan- 
daigua. Both  are  described  below. 

a.  Direct  Route  from  Syracuse  to  Rochester.  As  we  leave 
Syracuse,  we  have  a good  view  to  the  right  of  Lake  Onondaga  and 
the  small  town  of  Solvay  (practically  a part  of  Syracuse},  with  the 
huge  works  of  the  Solvay  Process  Co.,  for  the  manufacture  of  soda 
ash.  The  line  runs  through  a pleasant  pastoral  district,  repeatedly 
crossing  the  Erie  Canal  and  passing  numerous  small  towns.  Beyond 
(312  m.}  Weedsport  we  cross  the  Seneca  River.  At  (349  M.)  Palmyra 
(440  ft.}  Joseph  Smith,  the  Mormon  prophet,  claimed  to  have  found 


236  Route  28. 


ITHACA. 


From  New  York 


the  golden  plates  of  the  Mormon  Bible  (p.  540).  Large  crops  of 
peppermint  are  raised  here. 

371  M.  Rochester,  see  p.  238. 

b.  From  Syracuse  to  Rochester  via  Canandaigua  (‘Auburn 
Road’).  We  cross  the  Erie  Canal  and  run  to  the  S.  of  W.  From 
(308  M.)  Skaneateles  Junction  (610  ft.)  a branch-line  runs  to  (5M.) 
Skanedteles  (five  syllables),  situated  on  *Lake  Skaneateles  (860  ft.), 
a pretty  sheet  of  water,  15  M.  long  and  V2"^V2  wide,  traversed 
by  a small  steamboat.  At  the  head  of  the  lake  is  the  Glen  Haven 
Sanitarium.  — 317  M.  Auburn  (715  ft. ; Osborn  Ho.,  $2-3;  Avery, 
$2-2Y2),  a manufacturing  city  of  30,345  inhab.,  situated  on  the 
outlet  of  Owasco  Lake  (11  M.  X 1 M.),  which  lies  3 M.  to  the  S. 
The  Auburn  State  Prison,  with  accommodation  for  1200  convicts,  is 
well  known  for  its  ‘silent  system’  of  discipline.  W.  H.  Seward 
(1801-72),  Secretary  of  State  during  the  Civil  War,  long  lived  here 
and  is  buried  in  Fort  Hill  Cemetery,  which  is  supposed  tooccupy  an 
eminence  raised  by  the  Mound  Builders  (p.  Ixvi).  Auburn  is  the  junc- 
tion of  lines  to  Ithaca  (see  below),  to  (33  M. ) Freeville  (see  below),  etc. 

From  Auburn  to  Ithaca,  43  M.,  Lehigh  Valley  Railroad  in  IV2  br.  — 
From  (7  M.)  Cayuga  Junction  a short  branch-line  runs  to  (4M.)  Cayuga 
(p.  237).  Our  line  now  runs  along  the  E.  hank  of  *Cayuga  Lake  (390  ft.), 
a charming  sheet  of  water  38  M.  long  and  1-4  M.  wide,  enclosed  by  hills 
rising  600-700  ft.  above  the  water-level,  and  affording  good  lishing,  boating, 
and  bathing.  Steamers  ply  upon  the  lake.  — 10  M.  Union  Springs;  17  M. 
Aurora.,  the  seat  of  the  Wells  College  for  Women  (100  students). 

43  M.  Ithaca  (400  ft. ^ Ithaca  Hotel from  $2^/2;  Clinton  House,  $2-3),  a 
flourishing  city  with  13,136  inhab.,  lies  amid  picturesque  scenery  at  the 
head  of  Cayuga  Lake  and  is  best  known  as  the  seat  of  ’"Cornell  University 
(President,  Dr.  J.  0.  Schurman),  one  of  the  leading  colleges  of  America 
(co-educational  ^ 400  teachers,  3430  students).  The  university  is  munificently 
endowed,  and  its  buildings,  splendidly  situated  400  ft.  above  the  lake 
(*View),  are  handsome  and  capacious.  It  owes  its  foundation  to  the  bounty 
of  New  York  State,  the  National  Government,  and  Ezra  Cornell  (1807-74),  whose 
large  house  stands  on  the  slope  between  the  Campus  and  the  town.  Besides 
the  usual  academic  and  professional  branches,  the  educational  course  in- 
cludes agriculture,  the  mechanic  arts,  veterinary  surgery,  and  military 
tactics.  For  the  medical  department,  see  p.  50.  The  library  contains 
275,000  vols.,  and  the  campus  covers  200  acres.  The  Museum  of  Meclianical 
Engineering  contains  portraits  of  eminent  engineers.  The  Hydraulic  Labor- 
atory on  Fall  Creek  (see  below)  is  very  interesting.  — Visitors  should  make 
the  ‘"Loop  Ride’  on  the  electric  car  line,  which  takes  in  the  University 
Campus,  Cornell  Heights  (with  view  of  the  lake,  gorge,  and  waterfall),  and 
Renwick  Beach  (fare  5 c.).  The  romantic  gorges  near  Ithaca  contain,  per- 
haps, a greater  number  of  pretty  waterfalls  and  cascades  than  can  be  found 
in  any  equal  area  elsewhere.  Fall  Greek,  in  Ithaca  Gorge,  forms  eight 
waterfalls  within  1 M.,  one  of  which,  the  Ithaca  Fall,  is  120  ft.  high.  The 
Cascadilla  Creek,  a little  to  the  S.,  also  forms  several  cascades.  The  finest 
waterfall,  however,  near  the  head  of  Cayuga  Lake  is  the  “"Taughanic  Fall, 
which  is  about  9 M.  to  the  N.  of  Ithaca  and  IV2M.  to  the  W.  of  the  lake. 
The  stream  here  forms  a ravine,  with  rocky  sides  200-400  ft.  high,  and 
plunges  perpendicularly  over  a table-rock  to  a depth  of  215  ft.,  presenting 
the  highest  waterfall  E.  of  the  Rockies  (50  ft.  higher  than  Niagara).  There 
is  a hotel  near  the  fall,  and  it  may  be  reached  by  road,  railway,  or  water. 

From  Ithaca  a branch  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  runs  to  (9  M.  ♦,  1/2  lu'O 
Freeville,  the  seat  ef  the  George  Junior  Republic,  established  by  Mr.  William 
R.  George  in  1895,  This  is  a miniature  republic,  modelled  on  the  govern- 


to  Buffalo. 


GENEVA. 


28.  Route.  237 


ment  of  the  United  Sfates,  the  citizens  of  which  are  hoys  and  girls  between 
the  ages  of  14  and  21.  The  republic  has  its  own  legislature,  court-house, 
jail,  schools,  and  currency,  and  its  citizens  elect  their  rulers,  make  and 
enforce  laws,  and  carry  on  business  just  as  adults  do  in  the  greater  world. 
This  interesting  experiment  seems  to  work  well,  and  a visit  to  Freeville 
is  well  worth  making. 

At  (327  M.)  Cayuga  (Rail.  Restaurant)  the  train  crosses  the  lower 
end  of  Cayuga  Lake  (see  p.  236)  by  a bridge  more  than  1 M.  long. 
332  M.  Seneca  Falls situated  at  the  falls  of  Seneca  River,  the 
outlet  of  Seneca  Lake  (see  below) ; 335  M.  Waterloo.  — 342  M.  Geneva 
(450  ft.;  The  Nester , $2-3;  Kirkwood  Ho.^  Carrollton^  $2-272; 
Long  Point  Hotels  from  $ 2),  a pleasant  little  city  with  10,433  in- 
bab.,  extensive  nurseries  for  seeds  and  flowers,  and  the  interesting 
Experimental  Farm  of  the  State  of  New  York,  lies  at  the  N.  end  of 
Seneca  Lake  (see  below).  Hobart  College  here  is  a well-known 
Episcopal  institution,  with  excellent  laboratory  and  other  equip- 
ment and  a library  of  42,000  vols  (President,  Rev.  Dr.  L.  C.  Stew- 
ardson;  100  students).  Geneva  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Watkins, 
Ithaca,  Lyons,  etc. 

•^Seneca  Lake  (440  ft.),  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  New  York 
lakes,  is  38  M.  long  and  2-6  M.  wide.  It  is  surrounded  by  hills,  is  very 
deep  (nearly  700ft.),  and  never  freezes.  At  a depth  of  300  ft.  the  temperature 
is  constant  at  39°  Fahr,  Only  a narrow  ridge  divides  it  from  Cayuga  Lake 
(p.  236).  Steamers  ply  in  summer  thrice  daily  from  Geneva  to  Watkins  (see 
below),  calling  at  intermediate  points  (fare  25c.). 

*Watkins  (Glen  Park  Hotel,  near  the  entrance  to  the  Glen,  $3;  "Glen 
Mt.  Ho.,  in  the  Glen,  open  in  summer  only,  $3-4;  Jefferson,  unpretending, 
$ 2),  a pleasant  village  of  2943  inhab.  with  tree-shaded  streets,  is  fre- 
quented by  thousands  of  visitors  to  Watkins  and  Havana  Glens.  I*  is  also 
reached  via  E.R.  28c,  28d.  Above  the  village,  300  ft.  above  the  lake,  is  The 
Glen  Springs,  a health-resort  and  hotel  known  as  the  ‘American  Nau- 
heim" (from  $35  per  week,  incl.  treatment),  with  mineral  springs  and 
baths,  beneficial  in  gout,  kidney  disease,  rheumatism,  etc. 

The  entrance  to  ^Watkins  Glen  (adm.  50  c. ; free  to  guests  of  the  Glen 
Mt.  Ho.)  is  1/2  M.  from  the  lake,  to  the  right,  just  on  this  side  of  the  bridge. 
The  glen,  which  may  be  described  as  a somewhat  less  imposing  edition 
of  the  Ausable  Chasm  (p.  214),  is  2^2-3  M.  long,  and  is  traversed  by  paths, 
steps,  and  bridges  (stout  shoes  and  waterproofs  desirable).  The  points  of 
interest  are  indicated  by  sign-posts.  Among  the  finest  are  Cathedral 
(with  its  wonderfully  smooth  fioor,  and  rocky  sides  300  ft.  high),  Glens 
Alpha  and  Omega,  Elfin  Glen,  and  Pluto  Falls.  At  the  Mt.  House  (see  above) 
we  do  not  need  to  cross  the  bridge,  but  remain  on  the  same  side  of  the 
ravine  and  almost  immediately  descend  a flight  of  steps  to  the  left.  Farther 
on  the  path  passes  behind  the  small  Rainhow  Falls,  where  a rainbow  is 
generally  visible  about  4 p.m.  The  head  of  the  glen  is  spanned  by  a 
spider-web-like  railway-bridge,  165  ft.  high.  Here  a steep  path  ascends 
to  the  right  to  Watkins  Glen  Station  (rfmts.),  on  the  Fall  Brook  R.  R. 
Opposite,  on  the  other  side  of  the  track,  is  a gap  in  the  fence,  where 
begins  the  short  path  back  to  the  village  along  the  top  of  the  clifiTs  on 
the  left  side  of  the  glen.  It  leads  through  wood  for  10-12  min.  and  then 
emerges  on  a plateau  commanding  a splendid  "View  of  the  lake  and 
village.^  We  descend  through  the  cemetery  in  15-20  min.  more. 

Visitors  to  Watkins  should  not  fail  to  visit  also  the  "Havana  Glen, 
about  3 M.  to  the  S.E.  (entr.  through  the  Fair  Grounds  at  Havana,  near 
the  large  CooFs  Academy;  adm.  25c.).  This  glen  is  about  11/4  M.  long, 
and  its  most  striking  feature  is  the  wonderful  rectangularity  of  the  rocks 
in  its  lower  part.  This  is  specially  evident  in  the  square 
not  far  from  the  entrance.  The  prettiest  falls  are,  perhaps,  those  descend- 


238  Route  28. 


ROCHESTER. 


From  New  Yorh 


ing  from  the  Council  Chamber;  farther  up  are  the  Bridal  Veil.,  Jacob'' s 
Ladder.^  and  the  Curtain  Falls.  The  stream,  which  contains  more  water 
than  that  in  Watkins  Glen,  may  be  followed  up  (no  path)  beyond  the 
glen  proper.  — There  are  other  pretty  glens  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Beyond  Geneva  tbe  line  makes  a wide  sweep  to  tke  N.  355  M. 
Clifton  Springs  (620  ft.;  Sanitarium,  $3-372  5 Hotel,  $172)?  with 
sulphurous  springs.  — 366  M.  Canandaigua  (740  ft. ; Seneca  Point 
Hotel,  Canandaigua  Ho.,  $2-3),  a village  with  6151  inhab.,  at  the 
N.  end  of  Canandaigua  Lake  (670  ft. ; 15  M.  long  and  1 M.  wide). 

Steamers  ply  on  the  lake  to  various  points,  of  summer-resort. 

From  Canandaigua  to  Watkins,  47  M.,  Northern  Central  Railway  in 
IV2  hr.  — This  line  runs  towards  the  S.E.  24  M.  Penn  Yan  (Benham  Ho., 
Knapp  Ho.,  $2-21/2),  at  the  head  of  *Lake  Keuka,  a charming  little  sheet  of 
water,  710  ft.  above  the  sea  and  265  ft.  above  Seneca  Lake  (p.  237),  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  a narrow  ridge.  It  is  18  M.  long  and  V2-IV2  wide. 
Steamers  (fare  25  c.)  ply  from  Penn  Yan  to  Hammondsport.,  at  the  head  of  the 
lake,  calling  at  many  pleasant  intermediate  points.  Much  wine  is  raised 
on  the  banks  of  the  lake.  — 47  M.  Watkins  (p.  237).  Beyond  this  point  the 
railway  goes  on  to  Elmira  (p.  244),  Philadelphia,  Washington,  and  Bal- 
timore. 

Canandaigua  is  also  the  junction  of  a line  to  Buffalo  Batavia  (p.  248). 

The  stations  hence  to  (394  M.)  Rochester  are  unimportant. 

Rockester  (510  ft. ; * Powers  Hotel,  from  $ 3 ; Oshurn  Ho.,  $ 2-3 ; 
Whitcomb,  from  $272  5 Rail.  Restaurant),  a city  of  162,608  inhah., 
situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Genesee,  7 M.  from  Lake  Ontario,  makes 
flour,  beer,  clothing,  boots,  and  other  articles  to  the  annual  value  of 
$70,000,000.  Near  the  middle  of  the  city  the  river  forms  a perpen- 
dicular Fall,  90-100  ft.  high  (best  seen  from  the  Platt  St.  Bridge, 
reached  from  the  Powers  Hotel  by  following  Main  St.  to  the  left. 
State  St.  to  the  left,  and  Platt  St.  to  the  right).  The  river  forms 
two  other  falls  to  the  N.  within  the  city-limits,  the  Middle  Fall,  25  ft. 
high,  and  the  Lower  Fall,  85  ft.  high.  — Main  St.  crosses  the  river 
by  a concealed  bridge,  lined  on  both  sides  with  houses  in  the  style 
of  old  London  Bridge.  Near  this  the  Erie  Canal  is  conducted  over 
the  river  by  an  ^Aqueduct,  850  ft.  long  and  45  ft.  wide,  a fine  piece 
of  engineering.  — A fine  *yiew  of  the  city  is  obtained  from  the 
tower  (204  ft.)  of  the  Powers  Building  (10  c.).  — The  University  of 
Rochester  (260  students),  in  the  E.  part  of  the  city,  has  good  geolog- 
ical collections.  — The  City  Hall,  near  West  Main  St.,  has  a tower 
175  ft.  high.  — Mt.  Hope  Cemetery  is  pretty,  and  the  Public  Parks 
are  well  laid  out.  The  statue  of  Frederick  Douglass  (1817-95),  the 
coloured  statesman,  is  by  S.  W.  Edwards  (1898).  — Interesting  visits 
may  be  paid  to  the  large  Flour  Mills  and  Breweries  (lager  beer), 
lining  the  river,  to  the  extensive  Nurseries  in  the  outskirts  of  the 
city,  and  to  the  headquarters  of  the  Eastman  Kodak  Co.  Rochester 
is  a great  centre  of  Spiritualists  and  supporters  of  Woman’s  Rights. 

Railways  radiate  from  Rochester  to  Elmira  and  New  York,  Pittsburg, 
Niagara  Falls,  Ontario  Beach  (Hot.  Ontario,  $ 2),  on  Lake  Ontario,  etc.  — 
A fine  drive  may  be  taken  along  the  Boulevard  to  (7  M.)  Lake  Ontario. 

The  direct  Railway  to  Niagara  Falls  (74  M.)  runs  via  Lockport  to 
Suspension  Bridge  (p.  247)  and  the  Falls  (p.  249). 


to  Buffalo, 


BUFFALO. 


25.  Boute.  239 


The  train  crosses  the  Genesee  abov^  the  falls  (not  seen  from  the 
line).  — 404  M.  Batavia  (Richmond  Hotel),  with  9180  inhab.  and 
the  State  Blind  Asylum^  is  the  junction  of  various  railways:  The 
old  Holland  Purchase  Land  Office  contains  a collection  of  relics  of 
the  pioneer  days  of  Western  New  York.  To  the  right  is  seen  the 
monument  to  William  Morgan^  believed  to  have  been  murdered  by 
the  Free  Masons  in  1826  to  prevent  the  publication  of  his  book  on 
the  secrets  of  the  craft.  — 436  M.  East  Buffalo. 


440  M.  Buffalo.  — Hotels.  *Hotel  Ieoquois  (PI.  aj  C,7),  a well-built 
equipped  fire-proof  structure,  at  tbe  corner  of  Main  and  Eagle 
Sts  $4-5,  R.  from  $11/2^  Lenox  Hotel  (PI.  b ; C,  D,  5),  North  St.,  cor.  of 
Delaware  Ave.,  with  roof-garden,  R.  from  $ IV2;  Lafayette  Hotel  (PL  h; 
D,  7),  at  the  corner  of  Clinton  and  Washington  Sts.:  Genesee  Ho.  (PI.  c; 
C,  D,  6),  Main  St.,  from  S3,  R.  from  $1;  Broezel  Ho.  (PI.  f:  D,  7),  close 

(Pre 

Restaurants.  At  most  of  the  hotels;  Tech  Caf4,  cor.  of  Main  and 
Edwards  Sts.,  handsomely  fitted  up;  Statler,  Ellicott  So.  Building,  Swan 
St  ; Caf4,  in  the  Morgan  Building  (p.  242);  Goetz  & LaporL 

oci  Elephant,  356  Main  St.;  CarUon  Co. 

263  Main  St. ; Childs*  Dairy  Co.,  329  Main  St. 

Railway  Stations.  Union  or  Central  Depot  (PI.  D,  7),  Exchange  St  for 
of  the  N.  Y.  C.,  West  Shore,  Michigan  Central,  Lake  Shore,  Penn., 
roi*  Buffalo,  Rochester,  and  Pittsburg  RR.;  Erie  Depot 

^ Exchange  St.,  a little  to  the  E.,  also  used  by  the  Wabash, 
Grand  Trunk,  and  N.  Y.  C.  & St.  L.  RR. ; Delaware  & Lackawanna  Depot 
(PI.  C,  8),  at  the  foot  of  Main  St. ; Lehigh  Valley  Depot  (PI.  C,  8),  cor.  of 
Washington  and  Scott  Sts. 

Ste^amboats  ply  regularly  to  the  chief  points  on  Lake  Erie  and  the 
other  Great  Lakes  (comp.  p.  305). 

Cabs.  For  1 pers.  for  1 M.  50c.,  each  pers.  addit.  25c.,  2 M.  50c. 
each,  above  2 M.  $1  each  ; per  hour  1-4  pers.,  $11/2;  one  article  of  luggage 
free,  each  addit.  article  5-lOc.  — Street  Cars  (Tramways),  mainly  propelled 
by  electric  power  generated  by  Niagara  Falls  (comp.  p.  250),  traverse  all 
me  principal  streets  (5e.)  and  also  run  to  Tonawanda  (p.  242),  Niagara  Falls 
(comp.  p.  242),  etc.  — A Belt  Railway  Line,  starting  at  the  Union  Depot, 
makes  the  circuit  of  the  city  (15  M.)  in  3/4  hr.  (fare  25  c ) 

Post  Office  (PI.  D,  7),  Swan  St. 

rPi  (PI.  D,  6),  Main  St.  (50  c.  to  $ 1.50);  Star  Theatre 

(PI.  C,  7),  cor.  Pearl  and  Mohawk  Sts.  (25  c.  to  $1);  Lyceum,  Washington 
St.,  near  Broadway  (15-7oc.);  Germania,  331  Ellicott  St.,  performances  in 
German.  --  Sheas  Music  Hall  (vaudeville  performances),  near  City  Hall: 
Roof  awden.  Mam  St.,  cor.  of  High  St.,  with  concerts,  restaurant,  etc. 


in  size  of  the  cities  of  New  York  State,  with 
(1900)  352j387  inbab.,  lies  at  tbe  E.  end  of  Lake  Erie,  at  tbe  moutb 
of  tbe  Buffalo  Creek  and  bead  of  tbe  Niagara  River,  20  M.  above  tbe 
Niagara  Ealls.  It  is  well  built,  and  many  of  its  wide  streets  are 
shaded  witb  trees  and  smoothly  paved  with  asphalt. 

, ^By  is  supposed  to  be  derived  from  the  herds  of 

buffalo  which  frequented  the  creek  here  entering  the  lake.  The  first 
dwelling  for  a white  man  was  erected  here  in  1791,  but  it  was  not  till 
after  the  construction  of  the  Erie  Canal  in  1825  that  the  place  increased 
with  any  great  rapidity.  Between  1880  and  1900  it  added  nearly  100,000  souls 
commerce  of  Buffalo  is  very  great,  as  its  situation 
makes  it  an  emporium  for  much  of  the  traffic  with  the  great  North-West, 
ns  lake-harbour  is  safe  and  capacious,  and  it  has  several  miles  of  water- 


240  Boute  23. 


BUFFALO. 


From  New  York 


front.  Lumber  (TOO  million  feet  annually),  grain,  coal  (9  million  tons), 
and  live-stock  (ca.  10  million  head  yearly)  are  among  the  chief  articles  of 
trade.  The  grain  elevators  have  an  aggregate  capacity  of  22  million  bushels. 
The  industries  of  Bufl'alo  include  brewing,  distilling,  oil-refming,  car  build- 
ing, and  the  making  of  metal  goods,  soap,  and  starch.  They  employ  43,5()0 
hands,  while  their  produce  in  1800  was  valued  at  $ 122,000,000.  The  popula- 
tion includes  a large  proportion  of  Germans  and  many  Poles  and  Italians. 

Lake  Erie  (5T0  ft.),  the  second  (counting  from  the  E.)  of  the  chain 
of  Great  Lakes  between  the  United  States  and  Canada,  is  250  M.  long  and 
60  M.  wide.  It  is  by  far  the  shallowest  of  all,  having  an  average  depth  of 
only  84  ft.  It  connects  with  Lake  Huron  by  the  Detroit  River  (see  p.  341) 
and  pours  its  waters  into  Lake  Ontario  by  the  Niagara  River  (see  p.  249). 
It  is  the  scene  of  a very  busy  navigation,  about  9000  vessels,  of  an  aggre- 
ate  burden  of  12,000,000  tons,  annually  entering  and  clearing  the  port  of 
Buffalo  alone.  The  first  vessel  to  navigate  the  lake  was  built  on  the  Niagara 
River  by  La  Salle  in  1679,  and  the  first  steamboat  was  launched  in  1818. 

To  reach  Main  St.  (PI.  C-F,  1-8)  from  the  Union  Depot  (PL 
D,  7),  we  proceed  to  the  left  (W.).  Following  Main  St.  to  the  right 
(N.),  we  soon  reach  the  Weed  Blocks  at  the  corner  of  Swan  St.,  in 
which  ex-President  Cleveland  lived  when  in  Buffalo.  At  the  opposite 
corner  of  Swan  St.  is  the  huge  Ellicott  Square  Building  (PI.  C,  7), 
one  of  the  largest  office -buildings  in  the  world,  with  16  eleva- 
tors and  housing  a business -community  of  between  4000  and 
5000  souls.  On  the  left  is  *St.  Paul's  Church,  one  of  the  most  success- 
ful Gothic  (E.  E.)  churches  in  America.  A little  back  from  the 
church,  fronting  on  Franklin  St.,  is  the  substantial  City  Hall,  with 
a tower  200  ft.  high  (view).  [Close  by,  at  the  S.W.  corner  of  Pearl 
and  Church  Sts.,  is  the  ^Guaranty  Building,  by  Louis  Sullivan, 
a fine  example  of  simple  yet  dignified  commercial  architecture, 
with  terracotta  ornamentation.]  To  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  Eagle 
St.,  is  the  imposing  Iroquois  Hotel  (p.  239 ; view  from  roof).  A little 
farther  on,  the  street  crosses  Lafayette  Square  (PI.  C,  D,  7),  with  a 
War  Monument.  Here,  to  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  Broadway,  stands 
the  handsome  *Public  Library  (PI.  D,  7),  which  contains  210,000 
vols.  and  various  collections. 

The  spacious  "^Reading  Room  on  the  groundfloor  contains  E.  A.  Poe’s 
watch  and  a very  interesting  "Collection  of  autograph  MSS.  (Emerson, 
Whitman,  Lowell,  Howells,  C.  E.  Craddock,  etc.).  — The  basement  and 
upper  floors  are  occupied  by  the  museum  oiihc  Society  of  Natural  Sciences,. 

At  the  corner  of  Niagara  St.  stands  the  Erie  Co.  Savings  Bank. 
Main  St.  then  intersects  the  v/ide  Genesee  Street  (PI.  C-F,  5-7).  To 
the  left,  Y2  M.  farther  on,  at  the  corners  of  Edward  St.,  are  the  large 
Teck  Theatre  (p.  239)  and  the  R.  C.  *Church  of  St.  Louis  (PI.  D,  6). 

Just  to  the  W.  of  this  point,  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  Edward  St. 
and  Franklin  St.,  is  the  Grosvenor  Library  (PI.  C,  U,  6),  a free  refe- 
rence library  with  about  65,000  vols.  (open  9-6). 

One  of  the  finest  residence -streets  in  Buffalo  is  *I)elawaiie 
Avenue  (PI.  C,  U,  3-7),  which  begins  at  Niagara  Square  (PI.  C,  7), 
probably  soon  to  be  adorned  with  a monument  to  President  McKinley 
(by  Carrere  & Hastings),  and  runs  to  the  W.  of  and  parallel  with 
Main  St.  At  the  corner  of  Niagara  Sq.  and  Delaware  Ave.  is  the 
house  of  President  Millard  Fillmore  (iS00~iS7 A'),  now  a hotel  Among 


to  Buffalo. 


BUFFALO. 


^8,  Route.  241 


the  other  buildings  in  this  street  are  8t  Joseph's  College,  cor.  of 
Church  St.;  thQ  Methodist  Episcopal  Chwrch  (PI.  C,  6),  cor.  ofTupper 
St. ; ^Tfinity  Church  (PI.  0,  D,  6}^  between  Tupper  and  Edward  Sts.* 
and  the  Synagogue,  between  Allen  and  North  Sts.  ’ 

DelawareAve.  leads  to  {2^  Forest  Lawn  Cemcteri/ (see  below), 
but  in  the  meantime  we  may  turn  to  the  left  at(lV4M.)  North  Street 
(PI.  C-E,5),  another  handsome  residence-street,  with  the  large  Lenox 
Hotel  (p.  239)  at  the  corner,  and  follow  it  to  (1/2  M.)  the  Circle 
(PI.  0,  5),  containing  the  ^First  Presbyterian  Church.  Beyond  [the 
Circle  we  follow  Porter  Avenue,  which  leads  to  (t/4  M.)  the  small 
Prospect  Park  (PI.  B,  5)  and  (1/4  M.)  the  *Front  (PI.  A,  B,  5),  a bold 
blufe  on  the  Niagara  River,  affording  a fine  view  of  Lake  Erie,  the 
river,  and  the  Canadian  shore  (1  M.  distant).  A little  to  the  N.  is 
Fort  Porter,  a small  military  station,  with  a band  and  dress  parade 
at  sunset.  Continuing  to  follow  Niagara  Street  along  the  river  we 
pass  the  Waterworks  (with  a ‘crib’  in  the  river)  and  Fort  Erie  Ferry 
(PI.  A,  4)  and  reach  (2  M.)  the  International  Bridge  (PI.  A,  2), 
3/4  M.  long,  which  crosses  the  river  with  the  aid  of  Squaw  Island 
and  was  completed  in  1873  at  a cost  of  $ 1,500,000  (300,000^.). 

Retracing  our  steps  to  Forest  Avenue  (PI.  B-D,  2),  we  follow 
it  towards  the  E.,  passing  (left)  the  large  grounds  and  buildings  of 
the  State  Insane  Asylum  (PI.  C,  2;  open  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  & Frid., 
2-5  p.m.).  In  IV2M.  we  reach  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  *Park 
(PI.  E,  E,  1,  2),  which  is  prettily  laid  out  and  contains  a boating 
lake,  the  Park  Club  (PI.  C,  D,  2),  the  Albright  Art  Gallery  (PI.  C,  2), 
a handsome  white  marble  structure,  by  Green  & Wicks,  and  the  new 
building  of  the  Buffalo  Historical  Society  (PI.  C,  2).  The  Albright 
Art  Gallery  contains  pictures,  etchings  (by  Seymour  Haden,  etc.) 
sculptures,  casts,  and  other  works  of  art.  Adjoining  the  park  on  the 
S and  E is  ^Forest  Lawn  Cemetery  (PI.  D,  E,  2,  3),  with  the  grave 
of  President  Fillmore  (see  p.  240).  Near  the  S.W.  entrance  are  a 
statue  of  the  Indian  chief  Red  Jacket  and  the  Nelson  Blocher  Mo- 
nument, the  latter  a piece  of  crude  realism  which  has  strong  local 
Mniirers.  Near  the  same  entrance  is  a handsome  Crematorium  (PI. 
E,  3). 

On  the  S.E.  Forest  Lawn  Cemetery  Is  hounded  hy  Main  St 
whence  we  may  return  to  our  hotel  by  tramway.  Or  we  may  follow 
It  out  for  about  1/2  M.  to  the  Humboldt  Pakkway  fPl.  E F 2-41. 
This  leads  to  (I1/2  M.)  Humboldt  Park  (PI.  F,  5),  another  portion 
of  the  park  system.  Thence  we  may  now  return  to  Main  St.  by  Gene- 
see  St.  (tramwap.  — Those  who  have  time  may  take  a car  on  Broad- 
way 1.  i),  1,  b,  7)  and  proceed  through  a German  and  Polish  dis- 
tact,  passing  the  State  Arsenal  (PI.  D,  7),  to  (3  M.)  the  Pullman 
Company  Car  Works,  in  which  the  wood-carving  machines  and  other 
processes  are  interesting.  - Farther  on  in  the  same  direction, 
beyond  a labyrinth  of  railway  tracks,  are  a series  of  gigantic  Coal 
Elevators,  1 M.  long  and  200  ft.  high.  - Among  other  buildings 
Baedekee’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  j[0 


242  Boute  28. 


ROTTERDAM. 


From  New  York 


may  be  mentioned  tbe  Post  Office  (PI.  D,  7),  bounded  by  Ellicott, 
Oak,  Swan,  and  South  Division  Sts. ; tbe  Board  of  Trade  (PI,  C,  7), 
cor.  of  Seneca  and  Pearl  Sts. ; tbe  Buffalo  General  Hospital  (PI.  D, 
5),  High  St.;  tbe  Morgan  Building  (good  view  from  tower;  adm. 
10  c.),  at  tbe  S.W.  corner  of  Niagara  and  S.  Pearl  Sts.  (PI.  C,  7);  tbe 
Beal  Estate  Exchange^  in  S.  Pearl  St.  (PI.  C,  7);  tbe  Armoury  of  the 
65th  Regiment  (PL  E,  5);  tbe  Buffalo  Yacht  Club  (PI.  A,  5);  tbe 
Church  of  the  Nativity  (PI.  B,  4);  St.  Joseph's  Cathedral  (R.  C.; 
PL  C,  7),  Franklin  St. ; Canisius  College  (PL  D,  6),  Washington  St., 
and  several  other  R.  C.  institutions;  tbe  University  of  Buffalo  (PL  D, 
5),  High  St.;  and  tbe  Erie  County  Almshouse,  N.  Main  St. 

^ Excuksion  Steamers  run  from  tbe  foot  of  Main  St.  to  Fort  Erie  (Ca- 
nada) Crystal  Beach,  Woodlawn  Beach,  and  other  points  of  interest  on  the 
lake  ’ Excursions  may  be  also  made  to  Chautauqua  (p.  345),  Lalcewood 
(p  345)  etc.  ^ but  the  favourite  is,  of  course,  that  to  -Niagara  Falls 
(p.  248),’  which  may  be  made  by  railroad  (see  below),  by  steamer  (return 
fare  50  c.),  by  four-horse  coach  (in  summer),  or  by  electric  car  (IVs  hr. ; 
35  c.,  return-fare  50  c.).  — Buffalo  is  an  important  railway-centre,  lines 
radiating  hence  in  all  directions  (see  RR.  34,  46,  etc.). 

The  N.  Y.  G.  line  from  Buffalo  to  Niagara  Falls  runs  along  tbe 
right  bank  of  Niagara  River.  444 M.  Black  Rock;  451 M.  Tonawanda, 
with  a large  trade  in  lumber ; 459 V2  Echota,  with  an  electric  power- 
house and  tbe  cottages  of  employees.  — 462  M.  Niagara  Falls, 
see  p.  248. 

Beyond  the  Falls  station  the  line  goes  on  to  (2  M.)  Suspension  Bridge 
and  (T  M.)  Lewiston  (p.  254),  where  it  connects  with  the  steamer  to  Toronto. 

b.  Nik  West  Shore  Railway. 

453  M.  Railway  to  (429  M.)  Buffalo  in  IIV2-I6  hrs.  ($8;  parlor-car  or 
sleeper  $ 2)-,  to  (453  M.)  Suspension  Bridge  in  121/2-17  hrs.  (same  fares).  The 
through-cars  do  not  run  through  Albany,  but  holders  of  unlimited  tickets 
may  go  via  Albany,  on  notice  to  the  conductor.  From  Schenectady  on- 
wards this  line  follows  almost  the  same  route  as  the  N.  Y.  C.  R.  R., 
having  been  constructed  as  a rival  line  and  afterwards  bought  up  by  the 

Y.  C.  R.  R.  Co. 

From  New  York  to  (129  M.)  Bavena,  see  R.  21  c.  Tbe  Buffalo  line 
here  diverges  to  tbe  left  from  that  to  Albany  (p.  196).  143  Voor- 
heesville,  junction  of  a line  to  Cobleskill,  etc.  (R.  23) ; 1531/2  M. 
South  Schenectady  (p.  232);  I6OV2  M.  Rotterdam,  junction  of  tbe 
B.  & M.  R.  R.  (p.  173).  Our  line  follows  tbe  S.  bank  of  tbe  Mo- 
hawk, parallel  with  tbe  N.  Y.  G.  R.  R.  on  the  N.  bank.  176  M.  Auries- 
ville,  with  tbe  shrine  mentioned  at  p.  232.  From  (191  M.)  Cana- 
joharie  coaches  run  to  (8  M.)  Sharon  Springs  (p.  201 ; fare  $ 1). 
210  M.  Little  Falls  (p.  233).  From  (2171/2  M.)  Mohawk  coaches  run 
to  (10  M.)  Richfield  Springs  (p.  234).  — 233  M.  Utica  (p.  233).  — 
At  (253  M.)  Oneida  Castle  we  intersect  tbe  N.  Y.,  Ont.,  & W.  R.  R. 
(see  V.  342).  — 279  M.  Syracuse  (Rail.  Restaurant),  see  p.  235. 
— 325  M.  Lyons.  Beyond  (350  M.)  Fairport  tbe  trains  via  (360  M.) 
Rochester  (Rail.  Restaurant ; see  p.  238)  diverge  to  tbe  right,  while 
others  keep  on  via  (363  M.)  Genesee  Junction. 


to  Niagara  Falls.  DELAWARE  WATER  GAP.  ^8.  Route.  243 
429  M.  Buffalo,  see  p.  239. 

From  Buffalo  to  (453  M.)  Suspension  Bridge^  Niagara,  see  p.  242. 


c.  Via,  Delaware,  Lackawanna,  & Western  Railroad. 

in  10-13  hrs.  (fare  $8;  sleeper  $2:  parlor 
car  8 2)-  The  trains  start  from  Hoboken  (ferries  from  Barclay  St.  and 
Christopher  St.;  comp.  p.  8). 

Holohen^  see  p.  67.  The  train  threads  the  Bergen  Tunnel  P/o  M.). 
11  M.  Passaic,  with  (1900)  27,777  inhab.,  at  the  head  of  navigation 
on  the  Passaic  River.  — 15  M.  Paterson  [Bellevue,  $2),  an  indus- 
trial city  with  (1900)  105,171  inhab.  and  large  silk  and  cotton  mills, 
was  scourged  by  a terrible  conflagration  in  1902  and  by  immense 
floods  in  1903,  the  damage  done  amounting  to  millions  of  dollars. 
The  Passaic  Falls  here  are  50  ft.  high.  — 34  M.  Denville  (520  ft.). 

^ railway  to  this  point  leads  via  (8  M.)  Newark 

(p.  257);  12  M.  Orange,  a pretty  little  suburban  city  of  (1900)  24,141  inhab. 

^ Or«w^;re,  with  the  laboratory  and  home  (in  Llewellyn  Park) 

the  inventor,  and  also  the  home  of  H.  A.  Harvey 
t ^ Harvey ized  steel’;  21  M.  Summit  (380  ft.);  and 

(oO  M.)  Morristown  (idansion  Ho.,  $ 21/2),  with  a historical  museum  in  a 
house  occupied  by  Washington  as  headquarters  in  1777  and  later.  — 37  M 
Denville^  see  above. 

^opatconp  coaches  run  to  (4M.)  Lake  Hopatcong 
^72^-  long  and  3t/2M.  wide,  with  several  summer-hotels. 
— - 48  M.  Netcong  (870  ft.)  is  the  station  (stage)  for  (21/2  M.)  the 
pretty  little  Budd^s  Lake.  — From  (57  M.)  Hackettstown  (570  ft.) 
stages  run  to  Schooley's  Mountain  (1200Jft.),  another  summer-resort 
Dorincourt  Ho.,  from  $21/2).  — 67  M.  Washington  (500  ft.)  is  the 
Junction  of  a line  to  (14  M.)  Easton  (p.  247)  and  Philadelphia. 
Farther  on  our  line  penetrates  the  Manunka  Chunk  Mt.  by  the  Foss 
Gap  Tunnel,  330  yds.  long.  78  M.  Manunka  Chunk,  the  junction  of 
the  Belvedere  Division  of  the  Pennsylvania  11.  R. 

88  M.  Delaware  Water  Gap  (320  ft. ; * Water  Gap  Ho.,  Kitta- 
tinny  House,  $3-4;  Glenwood,  $2-3),  a group  of  hotels  and  cottages, 
at  the  * Water  Gap,  or  gorge,  where  the  Delaware  forces  its  way 
through  the  Kittatinny  or  Blue  Mts.,  the  Minsi  rising  to  the  W.  (in 
Pennsylvania)  and  Tammany  (comp.  p.  39)  to  the  E.  (in  New 
Jersey).  The  gorge  is  about  2M.  long,  with  rocky  sides  1500ft.  high, 
and  IS  so  narrow  as  barely  to  leave  room  for  the  railway  and  the  river. 

Whether  this  immense  chasm  has  been  caused  by  one  mighty  eruption 
or  by  a gradual  yielding  of  stratum  after  stratum,  by  the  immense  pres- 
sure of  the  waters  of  a lake  thousands  of  acres  in  area  ...  is  of  course 
a subject  of  mere  conjecture.  ...  The  evidences  of  the  action  of  water 
and  rocks  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  river-bed,  and 
forming  isolated  hills  and  alluvial  banks,  indicate 
lake-hke  repose  m the  country  now  drained  by  the  tributaries  of  the 

mountain  barrier’  (Z.  W.  Brodhead^s 
Helaw  are  ^ater  Gap  ).  The  Indian  name  of  Minisink  (‘the  water  is  gone’) 
country  above  the  Gap,  points  to  the  traditional  existence 
Hlue  Mts.  are  of  similar  late  forma- 

road  Pn*  should  be  seen  from  the  river,  the 

road,  Table  Rock,  and  Lovers  Leap.  ’ 


16^ 


244  Route  28. 


SCRANTON. 


From  New  York 


Walks  (comp.  Map  supplied  at  the  hotels).  To  Eureka  Falls,  the  Moss 
Grotto,  2jiidi  Relecca'' s Bath,  by  the  carriage-road  through  the  Ga{)  to  (VsM.) 
the  first  creek.  — Hunters"  Spring,  1/3  M.  farther  up  the  ^-Eureka  Glen,  is 
also  reached  by  a white-marked  path  diverging  to  the  right  from  the  Mt. 
Minsi  path  (see  below).  — The  Silvan  Way,  beginning  at  the  small  lake 
near  the  Water  Gap  House  and  indicated  by  white  marks,  leads  via  Cooper's 
Cliff  and  Table  Rock  (500  ft.  above  the  river)  to  (V2  M.)  Caldeno  Falls,  the 
Moss  Cataract,  Diana's  Bath.  — By  turning  to  the  left  200  yds.  farther 
on  we  can  descend  to  the  (1/4  M.)  Ridge  Fa^  (red  marks)  and  follow  it 
to  the  left,  past  Lovers'  Retreat,  back  to  (V2M.)  the  hotel.  — To  ascend 
Mt.  Minsi  (15(X)  ft.;  1V2-2  hrs.)  we  follow  the  Ridge  Path  (see  above;  red 
marks),  passing  the  Lovers'  Retreat  and  Winona  Cliff,  and  making  a slight 
digression  (path  with  yellow  marks)  to  "Prospect  Point  (1  M.  from  hotel; 
700  ft.  above  the  river;  view).  The  top,  2 M.  farther  on,  commands  an 
extensive  *View.  The  summit  is  also  known  as  the  Sappers'  View,  from 
the  Honourable  Corps  of  Sappers  and  Miners,  an  association  of  New  Yorkers 
and  Philadelphians,  which  had  about  100  officers  of  various  grades  to 
command  a single  individual  known  as  the  ‘High  Private'.  This  body 
made  many  of  the  paths  and  roads  in  the  vicinity.  — On  the  top  of 
Winona  ClifiT  is  the  Lovers'  Leap,  reached  by  a blue-marked  path  diverging 
from  the  Eidge  Path.  — To  ascend  Mt.  Tammany  (1480  ft.;  lV2-2hrs.)  we 
cross  the  river  and  start  below  the  slate-factory. 

Among  the  favourite  Drives  are  those  tp  Stroudsburg  (4  M.),  Deer  Park 
and  Cherry  Valley  (a  round  of  10  M.),  Butiei'niilk  Falls  (3  M.),  Falls  of 
Winona  (12  M.),  Marshall's  Falls  (7  M.),  and  Castle  Rock  (4  M.). 

A small  Steamer  plies  on  the  Delaware,  and  Boats  may  be  hired  for 
rowing  or  fishing.  Among  the  places  visited  along  the  river  are  the  Indian 
Ladder  Bluff,  Mather's  Spring,  and  the  Point  of  Rocks. 

From  Philadelphia  (p.  259)  the  Delaware  Water  Gap  is  reached  by  the 
Pennsylvania  R.  R.  in  31/2  hrs.,  via  Trenton  (p.  258). 

In  leaving  the  Water  Gap  tlie  train  crosses  Brodhead  Creek  and 
penetrates  Rock  Difficult  by  a narrow  cutting.  — Beyond  (93  M.) 
Stroudsburg  (400  ft.)  we  soon  begin  to  ascend  the  steep  slope  of 
Pocono  Mt.,  passing  through  a tunnel  near  the  top  (view).  At  (119  M.) 
Tohyhanna  (1930  ft.)  we  begin  to  descend  the  W.  slope  of  the 
Allegheny  Mts.,  at  places  very  rapidly.  — 145  M.  Scranton  (1060  ft. ; 
Jermyn,  $3-6;  Terrace,  $ 2-3),  with  (1900)  102,000  inhab.,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Roaring  Brook  and  the  Lackawanna,  owes  its  im- 
portance to  the  vast  adjoining  fields  of  anthracite  coal.  Its  iron 
industries  are  extensive.  — Beyond  Scranton  we  pas  s several  small 
stations  and  enter  New  York  State  (‘Empire  State’). 

207  M.  Binghamton  (845  ft ; Arlington , R.  from  $ 1 ; Hotel 
Bennett,  $2Y2”4-)3  manufacturing  town  of  39,647  inhab.,  is  the 
junction  of  railways  to  Albany  (D.  & H.  R.  R. ; p.  202),  Richfield 
Springs  (p.  234),  Syracuse  (p.  235),  Utica  (p.  233),  etc.,  and  ol 
the  Erie  Railway  (R.  28  d).  — Our  line  here  turns  to  the  W.  and 
follows  the  same  course  as  the  Erie  Railroad  (p.  247),  the  one  on 
the  right  and  the  other  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Susquehanna.  228  M. 
Owego  (815  ft. ; Ahwaga,  $ 2),  at  the  confluence  of  the  Owego  and 
the  Susquehanna,  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  Ithaca  (p.  236). 

264  M.  Elmira  (855  ft. ; Raihhun,  $ 272-5?  fj^om  $ 1 ; Frasier, 
Delevan,  $2;  Gleason  Sanitarium,  $2-3^2)?  an  industrial  town  with 
35,672  inhab.,  contains  large  rolling  mills,  the  car -shops  of  the 
Erie  Railroad,  a Female  College,  and  an  Academy  of  Science.  The 


to  Niagara  Falls.  PORT  JERYIS.  28.  Route.  245 

Elmira  Reformatory  has  played  an  important  part  in  the  reformatory 
treatment  of  criminals. 

Railways  radiate  hence  to  Watkins  Glen  (p.  237)  and  Rochester  (p.  238) 
to  Ithaca  (p.  236)  and  Canastota  (p.  234),  to  Harrisburg  (p.  2^)  and  Phila'- 
delphia  (p.  259),  and  through  the  Lehigh  Valley  (p.  282). 

282  M.  Corning  (930  ft.;  Dickinson  Ho.,  $2),  with  11,061  in- 
hab.,  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Rochester  (p.  238)  and  Williamsport 
(p.  284}.  At  (326  M.}  Wayland  (1360  ft.)  we  part  company  with 
the  Erie  line,  which  here  turns  to  the  N.  334  M.  Dansville  (1040  ft. ; 
Jackson  Sanitarium,  $ 31/2-5);  365  M.  Rochester  ^ Pittsburg  Junction] 
for  lines  to  the  N.  to  Rochester  and  to  the  S.  to  Pittshurff. 

410  M.  Buffalo,  see  p.  239. 

From  Buffalo  to  Niagara  Falls^  see  p.  242  or  p.  217. 


d.  Vi^  Erie  Railroad. 

445  M.  Erie  R.  R.  to  (425  M.)  Buffalo  in  II-I2V2  hrs.  (fare  $ 8 : parlor-car 
or  sleeper  $ 2);  to  (445  M.)  Suspension  Bridge  in  12-15  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

The  train  starts  from  Jersey  City  (comp.  p.  8;  ferries  from  23rd  St. 
and  Chambers  St.).  — This  line,  constructed  in  1836-52,  passes  some  fine 
scenery  in  penetrating  the  Allegheny  Mts. 

Jersey  City,  see  p.  67.  The  train  threads  the  Bergen  Tunnel 
(p.  243)  and  traverses  the  Salt  Marshes  of  the  Hackensack. 

These  extensive  marshes  are  covered  with  reeds  and  sedge  grass 
growing  in  soft  mud,  which  is  sometimes  40  ft.  deep.  They  are  over- 
flowed at  high  tide. 

Beyond  (10  M.)  Rutherford  we  cross  the  Passaic.  13  M.  Passaic 
(p.  243);  17  M.  Paterson  (p.  243).  At  (32  M.)  Suffern  (300  ft.) 
we  enter  New  York  State  (p.  244).  — 34  M.  Ramapo,  in  the  pictur- 
esque valley  of  that  name.  ~ 39  M.  Tuxedo. 

About  11/2  M.  to  the  W.  is  Tuxedo  Lake,  the  property  of  the  Tuxedo 
Park  Association,  a club  of  wealthy  New  Yorkers,  who  have  made  this 
one  of  the  most  fashionable  pleasure-resorts  and  game-preserves  in  the 
country  On  the  shores  of  the  lake  are  the  club-house  and  the  cottages 
ot  members.  A good  golf-course  has  been  laid  out. 

48  M.  Turners  (558  ft. , Rail.  Restaurant)  is  the  junction  of  a 
line  to  Newburgh  (p.  195).  — 50  M.  Monroe  (Monroe  Hotel,  $2). 

About  10  M.  to  the  S.  lies  “^Grreenwood  Lake  (625  ft.),  a favourite 
resort  of  hunters  and  fishermen,  9 M.  long  and  1 M.  wide,  also  reached 

a direct  railway  from  Jersey  City.  The  chief  hotels  are  the  Brandon 
House  in  Greenwood  Lake  Village,  the  Windermere  and 

Waterstone  Cottage,  all  at  the  N.  end  of  the  lake,  and  the  Ferncliff  Lake- 
side HoteU  ($  3),  on  the  W.  bank.  The  lake  is  surrounded  by  well-wooded 
hills,  attaining  a height  of  1500  ft. 

junction  of  a line  to  Kingston  and  Rondout 
(p.  Middletown  (6Q0  ft  - Madison  Ho.,  $2),  with  14,500 

inhah.,  junction  of  the  New  York,  Ontario,  & Western  R.  R.  to  Oswego 
(comp.  R.  47 e).  Beyond  (71  M.)  Howells  the  line  ascends  the 
Shawangunk  Range,  and  the  scenery  improves.  Beyond  (76  M.) 
Otisyille  the  train  reaches  the  summit  (870  ft.)  by  a long  rocky 
cutting  and  begins  to  descend  rapidly  into  the  valley  of  the  Delaware. 

89  M.  Port  Jervis  (440  ft. ; Fowler  Ho.,  from  $ 2 ; Delaware  Ho., 


246  Route  28. 


PIKE  COUNTY. 


From  New  York 


from  $172)?  situated  at  tlie  junction  of  tlie  Delaware  and  tlie  Never^ 
sink^  is  a village  of  9385  inhab.,  frequented  as  a summer-resort. 

At  Port  Jervis  the  Delaware  abruptly  changes  its  course  from  S.E.  to 
S.W.  and  runs  hence,  parallel  to  the  Allegheny  Mts.,  to  (42  M.)  the  Dela- 
ware Water  Gap,  where  it  again  turns  to  the  S.E.  in  breaking  through 
the  Blue  Ridge.  A fine  road,  much  frequented  by  bicyclists,  runs  along 
the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  shaly  bluffs  on  the  right  bank  ^ and  the  scenery 
of  this  section  of  the  Upper  Delaware,  in  *Pike  County  (Penna.),  is  de- 
servedly famous  and  much  visited  by  artists.  Numerous  picturesque  falls 
and  gorges  are  formed  by  the  streams  descending  from  the  highest  part  of 
the  ridge,  here  known  as  the  Pocono  Mts.  (comp,  above),  to  the  Delaware. 
For  an  area  of  about  40  sq.  M.  the  region  is  as  yet  uninvaded  by  the  rail- 
way. Among  the  chief  points  on  the  road  are  the  following.  — 8 M.  Milford 
(Fauchere.,  $3  5 Bluff  Ho.).,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sawkill^  the  beautiful  falls 
of  which  are  2/4  M.  distant.  Close  by  is  an  experimental  station  of  the 
Yale  School  of  Forestry.  OtteFs  or  Utter's  Cliff  (800  ft.),  to  the  S.  of  Mil- 
ford, affords  a fine  view  of  the  valley,  with  the  blue  wall  of  the  Kitta- 
tinny  Mts.  (see  below)  bounding  the  view  to  the  S.W.  Just  below  this 
point  the  river  is  joined  by  Adams  Brook.,  popular  with  artists  for  its  wild 
scenery.  — 12  M.  Mouth  of  the  Raymondskill.,  with  a fine  cataract,  I1/2  M. 
back  from  the  river.  — 18  M.  DingmanA  Ferry  {High  Falls  Ho..,  $2-3),  at 
the  mouth  of  Dingman's  Creek.,  with  an  old  ferry  and  a ruined  bridge. 
There  are  several  small  falls  near  the  village,  and  3 M.  up  the  creek  is 
Childs  Park,  in  a lovely  little  glen  with  a fine  waterfall.  Silver  Lake  is 
3 M.  farther  up,  near  the  headwaters  of  the  stream.  — 22  M.  New  Egypt 
(inns),  on  Tom's  Creek,  a famous  angling  stream.  — 27  M.  Bushkill  (Peters 
Ho.,  Riverside  Ho.),  at  the  confluence  of  the  Big  and  Little  Bushkill  Creeks. 
The  falls  of  the  latter  (2  M.)  are  the  most  beautiful  in  the  district.  The 
Delaware  here  makes  the  famous  ‘Walpack  Bend’  or  ‘Fiddler’s  Elbow’, 
shaped  like  the  letter  S.  — At  (36  M.)  Marshall's  Creek,  also  with  a fall, 
the  highroad  to  Stroudsburg  (p.  244)  diverges  to  the  right  (inland).  — 
42  M.  Delaware  Water  Oap,  see  p.  243. 

The  Tri-States  Rock,  to  the  S.  of  Port  Jervis,  marks  the  ineeting  of 
New  York,  New  Jersey,  and  Pennsylvania.  — Among  other  picturesque 
resorts  within  easy  reach  of  Port  Jervis  are  High  Point  (1600  ft.;  The  Inn, 
$4)  and  Lake  Marcia,  4 M.  to  the  E.,  on  the  ridge  of  the  Kittatinny  or 
Shawangunk  Mts.  (coach). 

From  Port  Jervis  the  N.  Y.,  Ontario,  & Western  Railway  runs  to  (24  M.) 
Moniicello  (1700  ft. ; Mansion  Ho.  $ 2)  and  via  (22  M.)  Summitville  (p.  343) 
to  (55  M.)  Kingston  (p.  283). 

Beyond  Port  Jervis  tbe  train  crosses  the  Delaware  into  Fenn~ 
57/Zpania  (‘Keystone  State’)  and  runs  along  its  right  bank,  bigb  above 
tbe  river.  Great  engineering  difficulties  were  overcome  in  making 
this  part  of  tbe  line,  where  tbe  river-gorge  is  deep  and  tortuous.  At 
(111  M.)  Lackawaxen  (650  ft.)  tbe  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal 
crosses  tbe  Delaware  by  an  aqueduct.  Like  most  of  tbe  other  small 
stations  in  tbe  '‘Delaware  Highlands'  this  is  a summer-resort  with 
several  unpretending  hotels  and  boarding-houses. 

At  (117  M.)  Mast  Hope  we  recross  tbe  river  and  re-enter  New 
York.  About  4 M.  to  tbe  W.  is  tbe  domain  of  tbe  Forest  Lake  As- 
sociation  (1500  ft.).  At  (123  M.)  Narrowsburg  the  valley  is  very 
narrow.  Beyond  (177  M.)  Deposit  (1010ft.)  we  quit  tbe  Delaware, 
turn  to  tbe  left  (S.W.),  and  begin  to  ascend  tbe  ridge  separating  it 
from  tbe  Susquehanna.  Fine  scenery.  From  (185  M.)  Gulf  Summit 
(1375  ft.)  we  descend  rapidly,  soon  obtaining  a fine  *^View  of  tbe 
Susquehanna  (right).  We  cross  tbe  Cascade  Bridge  (180  ft.  high)  and 


to  Niagara  Falls. 


EASTON. 


28.  Route.  247 


the  Starrucca  Viaduct.,  1200  ft.  long  and  110  ft.  high.  193  M.  Sus- 
quehanna (915  ft.),  with  railway  repair-shops,  lies  on  the  left  hank 
of  the  river.  — The  line  now  descends  through  the  Susquehanna 
Yalley.  Beyond  (216  M.)  Binghamton  (870  ft.  5 p.  244)  it  runs 
parallel  with  the  Lackawanna  Railway  (R.  28  c),  on  the  opposite 
(right)  bank.  238  M.  Owego  (p.  244) ; 274  M.  Elmira  (p.  244).  At 
(292  M.)  Corning  (940  ft. ; p.  245)  a branch-line  to  Rochester 
(p.  238)  runs  to  the  right  (N.). 

At  (333  M.)  Hornellsville  (1160  ft. ; Sherwood.,  Osborne  Hotel, 
Page  Ho.,  $2-2^2  5 Restaurant),  a town  of  11,918  inhab.,  with 
railroad  works,  the  Buffalo  branch  diverges  to  the  right  from  the 
main  line , which  goes  on  to  (414  M.)  Salamanca  and  (461  M.) 
Dunkirk  (p.  344).  — 363  M.  Portage  (1315  ft.;  Ingham  Ho.,  $2) 
is  the  station  for  the  *Portage  Falls,  formed  by  the  Genesee  River. 

The  Upper  or  Horseshoe  Falls,  70  ft.  high,  are  2/4  M.  below  the  village. 
About  1/4  M.  farther  down  are  the  Middle  Falls,  110  ft.  high,  with  a cave 
called  the  ‘DeviTs  Oven’  in  the  rocks  near  the  foot  of  the  precipice.  For 
2 M.  farther  the  river  descends  through  a narrow  rocky  defile  and  then 
reaches  the  Lower  Falls  (150  ft.). 

The  train  crosses  the  Genesee  by  a bridge  235  ft.  high,  affording 
a view  of  the  Upper  and  Middle  Portage  Falls.  367  M.  Castile 
(1400  ft.);  370  M.  Silver  Springs,  6 M.  from  Silver  Lake;  394  M. 
Attica  (1000  ft.);  422  M.  Clinton  Street  (East  Buffalo;  610  ft.). 

425  M.  Bulfalo,  see  p.  239. 

The  trains  for  Niagara  Falls  follow  practically  the  same  route  as 
the  N.  Y.  0.  R.  R.  (p.  242).  433  M.  Tonawanda ; 439  M.  La  Salle; 
444  M.  Niagara  Falls  (p.  248) ; 445  M.  Suspension  Bridge  (p.  248). 
The  trains  cross  the  bridge  (comp.  p.  334)  and  connect  at  (446  M.) 
Niagara  Falls,  Ontario  (p.  339),  with  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  of 
Canada. 

e.  Vi^  Lehigh  Valley  Railroad. 

464  M.  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  to  (451  M.)  Buffalo  in  IIV2-I2  hrs.  (fare 
$8;  sleeper  $2);  thence  to  (464  M.)  Suspension  Bridge  in  1 hr.  more  (same 
fares).  — The  line  starts  from  the  Pennsylvania  Station  in  Jersey  City 
(p.  8;  ferries  from  Cortlandt,  Desbrosses,  and  W.  23rd  Sts.).  The  ‘Black 
Diamond  Express’  leaves  at  10.25  a.m. 

Jersey  City,  see  p.  67.  — The  first  section  of  this  line  follows 
practically  the  same  route  as  the  Central  of  New  Jersey  R.  R.  (p.  8). 
9 M.  Newark  (p.  257) ; 13  M.  Elizabeth  Junction;  27  M.  South  Plain- 
field;  33  M.  Bound  Brook  (p.  258).  Beyond  (64  M.)  Pattenburg 
we  thread  the  Musconetcong  Tunnel,  nearly  1 M.  in  length.  At 
(76  Y2  M.)  Philippsburg,  an  iron-making  town  and  railway-junction, 
we  cross  the  Delaware  and  enter  Pennsylvania. 

771/2  M.  Easton  (*Paxinosa  Inn,  $ 4;  Huntington,  $ 3;  United 
States  Ho. , $ 2Y2"3),  at  the  Forks  of  the  Delaware , an  industrial 
town  of  25,238  inhab.  , is  the  site  of  Lafayette  College,  a well-known 
Presbyterian  institution  (430  students),  founded  in  1826.  It  is  an 
important  railway  centre  (p.  243).  The  Carnegie  Library  is  one 


248  Route  29. 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


Hotels. 


of  the  prominent  buildings.  The  Ingersoll  Seargeant  Co.  (mining 
machinery)  employs  13,000  men.  The  Paxinosa  Inn  (p.  247)  is  a 
favourite  summer-resort,  2 M.  above  the  town  (electric  car). 

891/2  Bethlehem,  and  thence  to  (451  M.)  Buffalo,  see  R.  34. 
— Hence  to  Niagara  Falls,  see  p.  242.  The  direct  route,  diverges 
at  Batavia  (comp.  p.  238).  — 464  M.  Suspension  Bridge,  see  p.  247. 


29.  Ifiagara  Falls. 

Hotels.  International  Hotel  (PI.  a;  B, 4),  $8-51/2;  Cataract  Hotel 
(PI.  b;  B,  4),  close  to  the  river, ^with  good  cuisine,  $8-51/2;  Kaltenbach 
(PI.  d : C,  4),  German,  well  spoken  of,  from  $8;  Prospect  House  (PI.  c; 
C,  4),  well  spoken  of,  $81/2-51/2;  Imperial  (PI.  e;  C,  4),  $272-4;  Tower 
(PI.  f ; B,  4),  $ 21/2-4.  The  first  two  are  open  in  summer  only.  These  are  all 
on  the  American  side,  in  the  city  of  Niagara  Falls.  — Lafayette  (PI.  g; 
A,  8),  opposite  the  Canadian  end  of  the  Upper  Steel  Arch  Bridge,  $ 21/2-81/2, 
open  all  the  year  round;  Clifton  House,  being  rebuilt. 

Railway  Stations.  New  York  Central,  cor.  of  Falls  St.  and  Second  St., 
also  used  by  the  Michigan  Central,  West  Shore,  Lehigh  Valley,  and  the 
H.  W.  & 0.  railways;  Erie  Depot,  cor.  of  Niagara  St.  and  Second  St.  — 
The  Canadian  lines  make  connection  for  Niagara  Falls  at  Suspension  Bridge, 
2 M.  to  the  N. ; and  there  are  also  stations  on  the  Canadian  side  at  Niagara 
Falls  (Ontario),  Victoria  Park,  and  Falls  View  (comp.  p.  884).  — Niagara 
Falls,  N.  Y.,  is  also  connected  with  Suspension  Bridge  by  tramway  (5c.). 

Carriages.  The  former  extortionate  charges  and  impertinent  demeanour 
of  the  Niagara  hackmen  have  been  greatly  abated.  The  rates  are  $172  for 
the  first  and  $1  for  each  addit.  hr.,  with  two  horses  $2  and  $11/2;  but 
it  is  always  advisable  to  make  a distinct  bargain  with  the  driver,  and 
lower  terms  than  the  legal  rates  may  often  be  obtained,  especially  by  a 
party.  It  should  be  expressly  stipulated  who  is  to  pay  the  tolls  in 
crossing  the  bridges;  and  the  driver  should  be  strictly  enjoined  not  to 
stop  at  any  of  the  bazaars  or  other  pay-places  unless  ordered  to  do  so. 
A single-horse  conveyance  should  not  cost  more  than  $ 8 for  half-a-day 
or  $5  for  a whole  day.  — Park  Vans  make  the  round  of  the  American 
Reservation  at  frequent  intervals  (fare  25  c.,  for  Goat  Island  15  c.),  and 
passengers  are  entitled  to  alight  at  any  number  of  points  and  finish  the 
round  by  any  subsequent  vehicle  on  the  same  day.  — Omnibus  from  the 
station  to  the  hotels  25  c. 

Electric  Tramways.  The  Niagara  Falls  Park  and  River  Railway  runs 
along  the  Canadian  bank  from  Queenston  (p.  254;  see  PI.  B,  1)  to  (1172  M.) 
Chippewa  (beyond  PI.  C,  6;  p.  254;  fare  45  c.),  taking  I72  hr.  to  the  trip 
and  stopping  at  Brock'‘s  Monument  (10  c.),  the  Whirlpool  (20  c.) , Niagara 
Falls  Town  (25  c.),  Niagara  Falls  Park  (30  c.),  and  Dufferin  Islands  (30  c.). 
The  Niagara  Gorge  Railroad  ( Great  Gorge  Route),  on  the  American  side, 
runs  through  the  gorge  and  along  the  brink  of  the  river  to  (7  M.)  Lew- 
iston (p.  254;  fare  50  c.,  there  and  back  75  c.)  and  thence  on  to  Youngs- 
town and  (14  M.)  Fort  Niagara  (p.  254;  65  c.,  85  c.).  — These  lines  aflord 
admirable  views  of  the  rapids,  gorge,  and  falls.  Visitors  are  recom- 
mended to  take  the  Canadian  line  to  Queenston,  cross  the  suspension 
bridge  to  Lewiston,  and  return  on  the  American  side  (or  vice  versa; 
round-trip  fare  $ 1).  This  is  known  as  ‘The  International  Belt  Line’. 

Fees.  Since  the  establishment  of  the  American  and  Canadian  National 
Parks  and  Reservations,  most  of  the  former  extortionate  fees  have  been 
abolished;  and  any  visitor  who  is  able  to  walk  a few  miles  can  see  all 
the  chief  points  at  very  little  cost.  Goat  Island  and  all  the  best  views 
of  the  Falls  are  free;  and  the  only  extra  expenses  which  the  visitor  is 
advised  to  incur  are  the  trip  in  the  '"Maid  of  the  MisV,  including  the  visit 
to  the  Canadian  side  (50  c.),  the  Gave  of  the  Winds  ($1;  or  the  similar  trip 
on  the  Canadian  side,  50  c.),  and  the  view  of  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  (50  c.; 
stop-overs  allowed  on  Electric  Lines  without  extra  charge). 


tarkpf^ 


: 4e^‘eS.*6 


Parting  ofWabe/'s 


LiitLe-Brother  I. 


R cu  p ids 


NltA\©A\lA  FALLS 

1 : 3L000 


3000 


Metres 


'’Buffalo 


^Chippewa-  C 


^er  & Debes’  Geog’.  Eslal^^T. 


Horseshoe  Fall.  I^IAGARA  FALLS.  29.  Route.  249 

Photographs.  Among  the  best  photographs  of  Niagara  are  those  of 
Zyhacli  & Go.j  Niagara  Falls,  Ontario  (p.  335). 

Reservations.  The  JVew  York  State  Reservation  at  Niagara  comprises 
107  acres  and  was  opened  in  1885.  It  includes  Prospect  Park  and  Goat 
Island.  — The  Gueen  Victoria  Niagara  Falls  Park^  on  the  Canadian  side, 
covers  154  acres  and  was  opened  in  1888.  — The  New  York  Commissioners 
issue  a folder  of  useful  ‘Suggestions  to  Visitors’,  which  may  be  obtained 
(free)  at  any  of  the  hotels  or  from  the  officers  of  the  Reservation. 

Plan  and  Season  of  Visit.  The  description  in  the  text  follows  the 
best  order  in  which  to  visit  the  Falls.  The  American  side  is  seen  to 
greatest  advantage  in  the  morning,  the  Canadian  side  in  the  afternoon, 
the  sun  being  then  at  our  backs  as  we  face  the  Falls.  The  Whirlpool 
Rapids  are  best  seen  from  the  Canadian  side.  It  is  possible  to  see  all  the 
chief  points  in  one  day,  but  it  is  better  to  allow  2-3  days  for  the  visit. 
May,  the  first  half  of  June,  the  second  half  of  Sept.,  and  Oct.  are  good 
seasons  to  visit  Niagara,  which  is  hot  and  crowded  in  midsummer.  No 
one  who  has  an  opportunity  to  see  them  should  miss  the  Falls  in  the 
glory  of  their  winter  dress. 

The  ***‘Falls  of  Niagara  (‘Thunder  of  Waters’),  one  of  the 
greatest  and  most  impressive  of  the  natural  wonders  of  America, 
are  situated  on  the  Niagara  River,  22  M.  from  its  head  in  Lake  Erie 
and  14  M.  above  its  mouth  in  Lake  Ontario.  This  river  forms  the 
outlet  of  the  four  great  Western  lakes  (Erie,  Huron,  Michigan,  and 
Superior),  descending  about  330  ft.  in  its  course  of  36  M.  and  af- 
fording a channel  to  a large  part  of  the  fresh  water  in  the  globe. 
Its  current  is  swift  for  about  2 M.  after  leaving  Lake  Erie,  but  be- 
comes more  gentle  as  the  channel  widens  and  is  divided  into  two 
parts  by  Grand  Island  (Bedell  Ho.,  a popular  summer-hotel,  $ 2-3). 
Below  the  island  the  stream  is  2^/2  M.  wide.  About  15  M.  from  Lake 
Erie  the  river  narrows  again  and  the  rapids  begin,  flowing  with  ever 
increasing  speed  until  in  the  last  3/4  M.  above  the  Falls  they  descend 
55  ft.  and  flow  with  immense  velocity.  On  the  brink  of  the  Falls, 
where  the  river  bends  at  right  angles  from  W.  toN.,tbe  channel  is 
again  divided  by  Qoat  Island,  which  occupies  about  one-fourth  of 
the  entire  width  of  the  river  (4770  ft).  To  the  right  of  it  is  the 
**Americaii  Fall,  1060  ft  wide  and  167  ft  high,  and  to  the  left  of 
it  is  the  *’^’Canadian  or  Horseshoe  Fall,  158  ft  high,  with  a con- 
tour of  3010  ft  The  volume  of  water  which  pours  over  the  Falls  is 
15  million  cubic  ft  per  minute  (about  1 cubic  mile  per  week),  of 
which  probably  nine-tenths  go  over  the  Canadian  Fall.!  Below  the 
Falls  the  river  contracts  to  1000-1250ft,  and  rushes  down  foaming 
and  boiling  between  lofty  rocky  walls.  Two  miles  farther  down  it 
is  barely  800  ft  wide,  and  at  the  Whirlpool  (p.  253)  the  huge 
volume  of  water  is  compressed  into  a space  of  250  ft  Within  7 M. 
these  lower  rapids  descend  over  100  ft,  but  at  Lewiston  the  river 
once  more  becomes  wider  and  smoother. 

The  gorge  through  which  the  river  runs  has  been  formed  by  the  action 
ot  the  vast  body  of  water  rushing  through  it,  and  the  Falls  themselves 
are  receding  up  the  river  at  a rate  which  in  1842-90  averaged  21/5  ft.  per 


international  boundary  passes  through  the  middle  of  the  so- 
called  Canadian  Fall. 


250  Route  29. 


NIAGARA  PALLS. 


Prospect  Park, 


annum  on  the  Canadian  side  and  2/3  ft.  on  the  American  side.  The  rocks 
passed  through  by  the  receding  falls  are  sandstone,  shale,  and  limestone. 
At  present  the  formation  over  which  the  water  pours  is  limestone,  with 
shale  lying  80-90  ft.  below  it^  and  the  frequent  fall  of  great  masses  of 
limestone  rock  is  occasioned  by  the  erosion  of  the  underlying  shales.  At 
the  Whirlpool  the  continuity  of  the  rock-formation  is  interrupted,  and 
the  whole  wall  of  the  ravine  is  formed  of  drift.  Geologists  tell  us  that 
a farther  retrocession  of  about  2 M.  will  cut  away  the  layers  of  both  lime- 
stone and  shale  and  leave  the  falls  stationary  on  the  sand  stone,  with 
their  height  reduced  about  50  per  cent. 

Niagara  Falls  appear  under  the  name  of  Ongiara  in  Sanson’s  Map  of 
Canada  (Paris,  1657),  but  the  first  white  man  known  to  have  seen  Niagara 
Falls  was  Father  Hennepin^  a member  of  La  Salle’s  party  in  1678.  He 
described  them  as  ‘a  vast  and  prodigious*  Cadence  of  Water,  which  falls 
down  after  a surprizing  and  astonishing  manner,  insomuch  that  the  Uni- 
verse does  not  afford  its  Parallek  . . . The  Waters  which  fall  from 
this  horrible  Precipice  do  foam  and  boyl  after  the  most  hideous  manner 
imaginable,  making  an  outrageous  Noise,  more  terrible  than  that  of  Thun- 
der-, for  when  the  Wind  blows  out  of  the  South,  their  dismal  roaring  may 
be  heard  more  than  15  leagues  off’.  The  sketch  he  made  of  the  Falls  shows 
several  points  of  difference  from  their  present  state. 

The  Indians  have  a tradition  that  the  Falls  demand  two  human  victims 
every  year^  and  the  number  of  accidents  and  suicides  is  perhaps  large 
enough  to  maintain  this  average.  Many  lives  have  been  lost  in  foolhardy 
attempts  to  cross  the  river  above  Goat  Island. 

The  American  city  of  Niagara  Falls  closely  adjoins  the  river 
and  contains  (1900)  19,457  inhabitants.  The  chief  source  of  its  pro- 
sperity has  long  been  the  influx  of  sightseers  ; but  it  is  now,  thanks 
to  the  tapping  of  the  Falls  by  tunnels  and  power  canals  (see  below), 
rapidly  becoming  an  industrial  centre  of  great  importance.  It  is 
estimated  that  about  700,000  tourists  visit  the  Falls  yearly, 

A "^Tunnel  (PI.  B-D,  4),  29  ft.  deep  and  18  ft.  wide,  has  been  excavated 
through  the  solid  rock  from  a point  just  below  the  Upper  Steel  Arch  Bridge 
to  a point  about  IV4  M.  above  the  Falls,  where  it  is  165  ft.  below  the  level 
of  the  river.  It  passes  below  the  city  at  a depth  of  about  2(X)  ft.  A short 
canal  diverts  a portion  of  the  river  to  the  head  of  the  tunnel,  where  a 
maximum  of  120-150,000  horse-power  is  attained  by  the  descent  of  a stream 
of  water  which  does  not  perceptibly  diminish  the  volume  of  the  Falls. 
The  district  upon  which  the  mills  are  erected  is  quite  out  of  sight  of  the 
Falls,  the  picturesque  grandeur  of  which  is  not  in  any  way  marred  by 
signs  of  intrusive  utilitarianism.  A similar  tunnel  has  been  constructed 
on  the  Canadian  side.  Including  the  surface  canals,  it  is  estimated  that 
Niagara  Falls  now  supply  400,000  horse-power,  used  not  only  for  industrial 
purposes  but  also  for  hundreds  of  miles  of  electric  railways  and  the  lighting 
of  several  towns. 

A visit  may  be  made  to  the  NaHral  Food,  Conservatory  (PI.  C,  4),  pn 
Buffalo  Ave.,  where  the  well-known  shredded  wheat  biscuits  are  made. 
Besides  the  processes  of  manufacture,  the  visitor  will  find  many  features  of 
interest  in  the  arrangement  of  the  factory,  including  the  employees’ 
dining-room,  the  marble  bathroom,  and  the  auditorium.  Guides  are  pro- 
vided to  show  visitors  over  the  huge  building  (no  charge).  Splendid  view 
from  roof-observatory. 

We  may  begin  our  visit  to  the  Falls  by  entering  Prospect  Park 
(PI.  B,  4),  12  acres  in  extent,  which  adjoins  the  gorge  close  to  the 
American  Fall.  At  ^Prospect  Point,  protected  by  an  iron  parapet,  we 
stand  on  the  very  brink  of  the  Fall  and  see  it  dash  on  the  rocks  below. 
Hennepin's  View,  a little  to  the  right  (N.),  commands  a good  general 
*View.  Near  the  point  is  the  Superintendenf s Office,  whence  an  In- 


Cave  of  Winds,  NIAGARA  FALLS. 


29,  Route.  251 


dined  Railway  (5  c.)  and  a Flight  of  Steps  descend  to  the  bottom  of 
the  gorge  and  the  dock  of  the  ‘Maid  of  the  Mist’  (see  p.  252^ 

Following  the  parkway  to  the  left  (W.)  from  Prospect  Point,  we 
reach  (3  min.)  the  Goat  Island  Bridge  (360  ft.  long),  crossing  the 
right  arm  of  the  river,  a little  above  the  American  Fall.  It  commands 
a fine  view  of  the  * Upper  Rapids,  To  the  right  are  several  little 
rocky  islets,  including  Avery's  Rock,  where  an  unfortunate  man  found 
foothold  for  18  hrs.  before  being  swept  over  the  fall  by  the  impact 
of  a boat  let  out  with  ropes  in  an  attempt  to  save  him.  The  bridge 
ends  at  Green  Island,  whence  another  short  bridge  crosses  to  *Goat 
Island  (80  acres  in  extent).  Here  we  follow  the  path  to  the  right 
to  (4  min.)  *Luna  Island,  a rocky  islet  between  the  main  American 
Fall  and  the  ^Centre  Fall,  named  from  the  lunar  rainbows  seen  here 
at  full  moon.  The  continuation  of  the  path  along  the  W.  side  of 
Goat  Island  leads  in  a minute  or  two  more  to  the  Biddle  Stairs  (free) 
and  the  office  where  a guide  and  dress  are  obtained  for  a descent  to 
the  *Cave  of  the  Winds  (fee  $ 1 ; small  gratuities  expected). 

Everyone  should  descend  the  stairs  and  follow  the  path  along  the 
foot  of  the  cliffs  towards  the  base  of  the  Centre  Fall  but  only  those 
of  good  nerves  should  attempt  the  trip  through  the  Cave  of  the  Winds, 
which,  however,  is  quite  safe  and  is  often  made  by  ladies.  For  those 
who  can  stand  it  the  experience  is  of  the  most  exciting  and  pleasurable  de- 
scription. After  passing  over  the  gangways  and  bridges  amid  the  rocks 
and  spray  in  front  of  the  Centre  Fall,  we  are  conducted  through  the 
‘Cave  of  the  Winds’  behind  it,  where  the  choking,  blinding,  and  deafen- 
ing  tumult  of  wind  and  water  defies  description.  The  visitors  grasp  each 
other  by  the  hand  and  sidle  through  on  a narrow  ledge,  with  a perpen- 
dicular wall  of  rock  within  an  inch  of  their  noses  and  the  mighty  volume 
of  the  fall  at  their  backs. 

Beyond  the  Biddle  Stairs  the  path  on  Goat  Island  leads  to 
(4  min.)  Porter  s Bluff,  overlooking  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  the  Cana- 
dian Rapids,  and  the  ravine  below  the  Falls.  A staircase  and  bridge 
descend  hence  to  **Terrapin  Rock,  on  the  edge  of  the  Horseshoe 
Falls,  affording  the  best  view  of  these  from  this  side.  The  tower 
which  used  to  be  here  has  been  removed  as  unsafe. 

‘The  river  here  is  evidently  much  deeper  than  the  American  branch, 
and  instead  of  bursting  into  foam  where  it  quits  the  ledge,  it  bends  sol- 
idly over  and  falls  in  a continuous  layer  of  the  most  vivid  green.  The 
tint  is  not  uniform,  but  varied,  long  strips  of  deeper  hue  alternating  with 
bands  of  brighter  colour  . . . From  all  this  it  is  evident  that  beauty 
IS  not  absent  from  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  but  majesty  is  its  chief  attribute. 
The  plunge  of  the  water  is  not  wild,  but  deliberate,  vast,  and  fascinating’ 
( Tyndall).  — A condemned  warship  sent  over  the  Fall  in  1829  drew  18  ft. 
of  water,  but  passed  without  touching  the  ledge. 

Our  path  next  leads  along  the  S.  side  of  Goat  Island  to  (7-8  min.) 
the  series  of  bridges  leading  to  the  * Three  Sister  Islands,  which 
afford  the  best  view  of  the  imposing  '^'Canadian  Rapids,  running 
at  the  rate  of  30  M.  an  hour.  The  Third  Sister  is  adjoined  by  a 
smaller  rock  known  as  the  Little  Brother, 

We  may  now  return  through  the  centre  of  Goat  Island  to  (5 min.) 
the  bridge  leading  to  the  mainland,  but  those  who  have  time  should 
follow  the  path  to  (4  min.)  the  ‘Parting  of  the  Waters’  at  the  head 


252  Route  29. 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


Table  Booh. 


of  Goat  Island,  where  we  obtain  a good  view  of  the  broad  and  quiet 
river  above  the  cascades,  with  Grand  Island  (p.  249)  in  the  back- 
ground. Thence  the  path  leads  back  along  the  N.  side  of  Goat  Island, 
affording  a view  of  the  American  Rapidsy  to  (5-6  min.)  the  bridge. 

We  may  now  cross  to  the  Canadian  side  of  theriverby  the*Rpper 
Steel  Arch  Bridge  (PI.  B,4),  about  250  yds.  below  the  Falls  (see  p. 
253),  erected  in  1897-98  to  take  the  place  of  the  suspension-bridge 
formerly  at  this  spot.  The  main  span,  the  largest  of  the  kind  in  the 
world,  is  840  ft.  long,  while  the  flanking  spans  increase  the  total 
length  of  the  bridge  to  1240  ft.  It  is  49  ft.  wide.  An  electric  tram- 
way crosses  in  the  centre,  and  on  each  side  are  carriage-ways  and 
footpaths.  The  bridge  is  195  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  water. 
Bridge-toll  10  c.,  return  15  c.,  inch  tramway  fare.  — Just  below  it, 
on  the  American  shore,  is  the  mouth  of  the  tunnel  described  at 
p.  250.  On  the  bank  above  is  a group  of  mills  and  manufactories, 
run  by  the  power  of  a surface  canal. 

On  reaching  the  Canadian  end  of  the  bridge,  we  turn  to  the  left 
and  reach  (3  min.)  *Q,ueen  Victoria  Niagara  Falls  Park,  which  ex- 
tends along  the  river  for  2^/2  M.  (electric  railway,  see  p.  248).  The 
park  contains  a bronze  statue  of  Colonel  Ozowskiy  its  chief  promoter. 
Splendid  general  views  are  obtained  as  we  proceed  of  the  Falls 
and  the  gorge,  especially  from  the  (3  min.)  ^Ramblers  Rest  and 
(4  min.)  ^Inspiration  Point.  To  the  right,  3-4 min.  farther  on,  are 
Picnic  Grounds  and  a Restaurant ; and  in  3 min.  more  we  reach  the 
Table  Rock  House  and  '^*Table  Rock  (PI.  A,  5),  which  affords  an 
indescribably  grand  view  of  the  Horseshoe  Falls.  Beautiful  rain- 
bows are  seen  on  the  spray  in  the  afternoon.  The  roar  of  the  water  is 
deafening. 

The  name  of  Table  Rock  still  adheres  to  this  point,  though  the  last 
portion  of  the  overhanging  ledge  that  gave  rise  to  it  fell  into  the  abyss 
in  1850.  — An  elevator  here  affords  an  opportunity  to  those  who  wish  to 
go  under  the  Falls  (25c.,  with  dress  50  c.).  This  trip  does  not  necessitate 
the  removal  of  clothing,  but  only  the  protection  of  oil-skin  suits.  It  has 
been  improved  by  the  construction  of  a tunnel  (200  ft.  long)  and  now 
affords  imposing  Views  of  the  falls  from  behind  and  below. 

Visitors  with  time  to  spare  may  extend  their  walk  through  the  Park 
above  the  Falls  to  (3-4  min.)  Cedar  Island  and  (1  M.)  *DufFerin  Islands,  en- 
joying good  Adews  of  the  Canadian  Rapids  (see  above).  No  time  need  be 
wasted  on  the  so-called  Burning  Spring  (adm.  50  c.).  — Falls  Vieu)  Station 
of  the  Michigan  Central  R.R.  (see  p.  334),  lies  just  outside  the  Park,  opposite 
the  lower  end  of  Cedar  Island.  — A road  diverging  near  Table  Rock  leads 
to  the  battlefield  of  Lundy'^s  Lane^  where  the  Anglo-Canadian  forces  defeated 
the  Americans  after  a bloody  struggle  on  July  25th,  1814. 

No  one  should  omit  to  take  the  **Trip  in  the  little  steamer  the 
Maid  of  the  Mist,  which  starts  near  the  foot  of  the  Inclined  Railway 
descending  from  the  Library  (see  p.251),  steams  up  the  river  nearly 
to  the  foot  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  and  touches  at  a wharf  on  the 
Canadian  side  (fee  50  c.,  inch  water-proof  dress).  The  **View  it 
affords  of  the  Falls  is  one  of  the  best  to  be  had ; and  the  trip  is 
perfectly  safe.  Passengers  may  disembark  on  the  Canadian  side 


Whirlpool  Rapids.  NIAGARA  FALLS.  29.  Route.  253 

(where  a steep  path  ascends  to  the  National  Park)  and  return  hy 
any  later  trip  of  the  steamer  the  same  day. 

The  river  and  its  hanks  below  the  bridge  offer  many  points  of 
great  interest.  The  Lower  Rapids  and  the  Whirlpool  (see  below) 
are  both  seen  to  greatest  advantage  from  the  Canadian  side. 

From  the  N.  end  of  the  bridge  we  follow  the  road  (electric 
railway,  see  p.  248)  descending  along  the  edge  of  the  cliff  to  (2  M.) 
the  ^Cantilever  Bridge  (PI.  B,  1)  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad^ 
one  of  the  first  examples  of  this  method  of  construction,  completed 
in  1883.  It  is  entirely  of  steel  and  has  a total  length  of  900  ft.  The 
two  cantilever  arms,  395  ft.  and  375  ft.  long,  are  connected  in  the 
centre  by  a fixed  span  of  125  ft.  It  is  245  ft.  above  the  water. 
About  100  yds.  below  this  bridge  is  the  *Lower  Steel  Arch  Bridge 
of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway^  erected  in  1897  on  the  site  of  the 
former  Railway  Suspension  Bridge,  with  a roadway  below  the  rail- 
road track  (toll  10  c.,  incl.  return).  The  length  of  the  bridge,  in- 
cluding approaches,  is  1100  ft.,  half  of  which  is  absorbed  by  the 
arch  itself.  The  highest  point  is  226  ft.  above  the  water.  It  com- 
mands a fine  view  of  the  Whirlpool  Rapids,  but  the  Falls  are  partly 
hidden  by  the  Cantilever  Bridge. 

A little  below  the  Lower  Steel  Arch  Bridge  is  the  entrance  to  the 
so-called  Rapids  Park,  where  we  descend  an  Inclined  Railway  (50  c.) 
to  view  the  ^Whirlpool  Rapids,  which  in  their  own  way  are  as  wonder- 
ful as  the  Falls.  The  immense  volume  of  water  is  here  forced  to 
flow  through  so  narrow  a channel  (300  ft.)  that  it  actually  assumes 
a convex  form , the  centre  of  the  river  being  20  ft.  higher  than  the 
edges.  Three  other  elevators  (each  50  c.)  descend  to  the  Rapids  on 
the  American  side. 

The  impression  of  force  is  overwhelming.  ‘The  surges  did  not  look 
like  the  gigantic  ripples  on  a river's  course,  as  they  were,  but  like  a 
procession  of  ocean  billows;  they  rose  far  aloft  in  vast  bulks  of  clear 
green,  and  broke  heavily  into  foam  at  the  crest’  (Howells). 

It  was  in  an  effort  to  swim  down  these  Rapids  that  Capt.  Webb  lost 
his  life  in  1883,  but  since  then  several  persons  have  passed  through  them 
safely  in  barrels.  The  old  ‘Maid  of  the  Mist’  was  successfully  piloted 
through  the  Rapids  to  Lewiston  in  1861.  Blondin  and  others  have  crossed 
the  gorge  above  the  Rapids  on  ropes  of  hemp  or  wire. 

Kear  the  wooden  staircase  ascending^  to  the  DeviVs  Hole  is  a tablet 
commemorating  an  Indian  massacre  in  1763. 

We  may  now  cross  the  railway-bridge  and  return  along  the 
American  side  (tramway,  see  p.  248). 

About  1 M.  below  the  Railway  Bridge  is  the  * Whirlpool,  of 
which  we  get  a good  distant  view  from  the  top  of  the  cliff.  The 
river  here  bends  suddenly  at  right  angles  to  its  former  course,  and 
the  Whirlpool  is  occasioned  by  the  full  force  of  the  current  im- 
pinging against  the  cliffs  of  the  left  bank. 

‘Here,  within  the  compass  of  a mile,  those  inland  seas  of  the  North, 
Superior,  Huron,  Michigan,  Erie,  and  the  multitudes  of  smaller  lakes,  all 
pour  their  floods,  where  they  swirl  in  dreadful  vortices,  with  resistless 
undercurrents  boiling  beneath  the  surface  of  that  mighty  eddy.  Abruptly 


254  Route  29. 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


from  this  scene  of  secret  power,  so  different  from  the  thunderous  splen- 
dours of  the  cataract  itself,  rise  lofty  cliffs  on  every  side,  to  a height  of 
two  hundred  feet,  clothed  from  the  water's  edge  almost  to  their  crests 
with  dark  cedars.  Noiselessly,  so  far  as  your  senses  perceive,  the  lakes 
steal  out  of  the  whirlpool,  then,  drunk  and  wild,  with  brawling  rapids 
roar  away  to  Ontario  through  the  narrow  channel  of  the  river.  Awful  as 
the  scene  is,  you  stand  so  far  above  it  that  you  do  not  know  the  half  of 
its  terribleness ; for  those  waters  that  look  so  smooth  are  great  ridges  and 
rings,  forced,  by  the  impulse  of  the  currents,  twelve  feet  higher  in  the 
centre  than  at  the  margin.  Nothing  can  live  there,  and  with  what  is 
caught  in  its  hold,  the  maelstrom  plays  for  days,  and  whirls  and  tosses 
round  and  round  in  its  toils,  with  a sad  maniacal  patience'.  (Hoicells.) 

The  River  Road  ascends  along  the  American  side  of  the  river  from 
Goat  Island  Bridge  to  (1  M.)  the  Old  French  Landing^  where  La  Salle  and 
Father  Hennepin  are  said  to  have  embarked  in  1678  after  their  portage 
from  Lewiston.  Nearly  opposite,  on  the  Canadian  shore,  is  the  village  of 
Chippewa^  where  the  Americans  defeated  the  English  in  1814.  About  1 M. 
farther  up  is  the  Schlosser  Landing^  fortified  by  the  French  in  1750  and 
by  the  English  in  1761.  Navy  Island.,  near  the  Canadian  shore,  gave 
shelter  to  the  insurgents  of  the  ‘Mackenzie  War’  (1837-38).  Just  above  is 
Grand  Island  (26sq.M.  in  area^  comp. p. 249),  which  obtained  some  notoriety 
in  1820,  when  Major  Noah  proposed  to  found  here  the  city  of  Ararat,  as  a 
universal  refuge  for  the  Jews.  Opposite  Grand  Island,  on  the  American 
shore,  5 M.  above  the  Falls,  is  the  mouth  of  the  Cayuga^  where  La  Salle 
launched  the  ‘Griffon’,  the  first  vessel  to  navigate  the  Great  Lakes  (1679). 

. The  Observation  Trains  of  the  N.Y.C.R.R.  between  Niagara  Falls  and 
(7  M.)  Lewiston  (return-fare  25c.)  afford  admirable  *Views  (to  the  left)  of 
the  gorge  of  the  Niagara.  — Lewiston.,  a pleasant  little  village,  is  the 
starting-point  of  the  steamers  across  Lake  Ontario  to  Toronto  (comp. 
Baedeker's  Canada).  A fine  suspension-bridge,  erected  in  1899  , 800  ft.  in 
span,  and  traversed  by  an  electric  tramway,  connects  Lewiston  with 
Queenston^  on  the  opposite  shore,  where  Gen.  Brock  fell  on  Oct.  11th,  1812 
(spot  marked  by  a monument  19o  ft.  high).  Queenston  is  a station  on  the 
Michigan  Central  R.R.  (electric  tramway,  see  p.  248).  — About  8 M.  to  the 
N.E.  of  Niagara  Falls  is  the  Reservation  of  the  Tuscarora  Indians  (p.  233*, 
baskets,  etc.,  for  sale).  — Fort  Niagara.,  at  the  (14  M.)  mouth  of  the  river, 
first  established  in  1678,  is  now  garrisoned  by  U.  S.  troops  (tramway, 
see  p.  248).  Opposite  is  the  watering-place  of  Niagara-on-the-Lake.  — 
Comp.  Baedeker's  Handbook  to  Canada. 


30.  The  St.  Lawrence  River  and  the  Thousand  Islands. 

Passengers  who  make  the  St.  Lawrence  trip  from  American  soil  usu- 
ally ioin  the  steamer  at  Clayton  (p.  255),  which  is  reached  from  New 
York  (340  M.)  via  the  N.  Y,  C.  R.  R.  to  (233  M.)  Utica  and  the  Rome, 
Watertown,  & Ogdensburg  R,  R.  thence  (9-12  hrs.^  through -carriages-,  fare 
$ 8.27  ^ comp.  R.  28  a).  — The  Montreal  steamer  of  the  Richelieu  & On- 
tario Navigation  Co.  leaves  Toronto  daily  in  summer  at  4 p.m.,  and  Kingston 
(where  it  receives  most  of  its  passengers)  about  6 a.m.,  calling  at  Clayton 
IV4  hr.  later  (fare  from  Clayton  to  Montreal  $5.!^).  Montreal  is  reached 
about  6.30  p.m.  — Those  who  wish  merely  to  visit  the  Thousand  Islands 
may  do  so  by  one  of  the  steamers  which  make  daily  round-trips  from  Clayton 
(fare  50  c.);  the  ‘Lawrence’,  equipped  w.ith  a powerful  search-light,  makes 
her  trip  in  the  evening.  Comp.  Baedeker's  Handbook  to  Canada. 

The  St.  Lawrence,  the  outflow  of  the  Great  Lakes,  has  a length  (from 
Lake  Ontario  to  its  mouth)  of  500  M.  and  pours  more  fresh  water  into  the 
Ocean  than  any  other  river  except  the  Amazon.  It  is  navigable  for  large 
vessels  to  Montreal  and  for  small  steamers  all  the  way,  though  some  of 
the  rapids  have  to  be  avoided  by  means  of  canals  by  boats  ascending  the 


St.  Lawrence  River.  THOUSAND  ISLANDS.  30.  Route.  255 


river  (comp.  p.  256).  During  4-5  months,  however,  the  navigation  of  the 
lower  St.  Lawrence  is  stopped  by  ice.  Comp.  Baedeker's  Canada, 

Distances  in  the  following  route  are  calculated  from  Kingston. 

Kingston  {H6t,  Frontenac^  $172“^;  British  American  Hotels 
$172~^)i  3-  city  of  17,960  inhab. , with  picturesque  fortifications, 
situated  at  the  point  where  the  St.  Lawrence  issues  from  Lake  On- 
tario^ is  described  in  Baedeker's  Canada.  A small  steamer  plies  re- 
gularly to  Cape  Vincent  (Carleton  Hotel,  $272“3). 

On  leaving  Kingston  our  steamer  almost  at  once  begins  to  traverse 
the  expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence  known  as  the  *Lake  of  the  Thou- 
sand Islands,  which  is  40  M.  long  and  4-7  M.  wide  and  contains 
about  1700  islands,  big  and  little.  Many  of  these  islands  are  favourite 
summer-resorts,  with  hotels  and  boarding-houses,  while  others  are 
private  property,  with  the  country-houses  of  rich  Americans  and 
Canadians.  The  voyage  through  them  is  picturesque,  and  many  of 
the  islands  are  illuminated  on  Wed.  & Sat.  evenings,  when  search- 
light steamer-excursions  are  run.  Our  course  at  first  lies  between 
Wolfe  or  Long  Island  (r.)  and  Howe  Island  (1.). 

25  M.  (r.)  Clayton  {New  Huhhard^  $2-4;  Izaak  Walton.^  $2; 
Manatauck^  Prospect  Point),  a village  and  summer-resort  with  1913 
inhab.,  is  the  terminus  of  the  R.,  W.,  & 0.  R.  R.  from  (107  M.)  Utica 
(comp.  p.  233).  It  is  the  starting-point  of  several  steamers  making 
short  trips  among  the  Thousand  Islands  (comp.  p.  254).  Opposite 
is  the  large  Grindstone  Island.^  behind  which,  on  the  Canadian  shore, 
lies  Gananoque  (Oananoque  Inn,  $3). 

28  M.  (r.)  Round  Island  or  Frontenac^  with  the  Hotel  Frontenac 
($4).  — Opposite  lies  Murray  Isle  (Hot.  Murray  Hill,  $4). 

31  M.  (1.)  Thousand  Island  Park  {Columbian.,  $ 3-4;  Thousand 
Island  Park  Ho.,  $272)5  ^ great  Methodist  resort,  at  the  W.  end  of 
Wellesley  Island.  — A little  lower  down  is  the  8t.  Lawrence  Park 
(r.),  with  the  Lotus  Hotel  ($272“'^)* 

41  M.  (r.)  Alexandria  Bay  {Crossmon,  $4;  Thousand  Isle  Ho., 
$3-5;  Edgewood  Park,  New  Marsden  Ho.,  $3;  Central  Park  Ho., 
$2-3),  the  chief  resort  among  the  Thousand  Islands,  lies  on  the 
American  shore,  opposite  Wellesley  Island,  and  counts  pretty  scenery 
and  good  boating  and  fishing  among  its  attractions.  Among  the  most 
prominent  viDas  on  the  neighbouring  islets  are  those  belonging  to 
the  Pullman  Family  and  to  H.  H.  Warner  (of  the  ‘Safe  Cure’).  — 
Westminster  Park  (Hotel  Westminster,  $2-3)  lies  at  the  E.  end  of 
Wellesley  Island,  opposite  Alexandria  Bay. 

Farther  on  we  pass  the  Summerland  Islets  (1.)  and  the  long  Qre^ 
nadier  Island  (1.),  leave  the  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Isles,  and  reach 
the  open  river,  here  about  2 M.  wide.  For  some  distance  now  the 
voyage  is  monotonous  and  uninteresting. 

66  M.  (1.)  Brockville  {Strathcona,  $3;  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  $2) 
is  a Canadian  city  with  8940  inhab.  and  good  fishing. 

80  M.  (1.)  Prescott  (Daniels  Ho.,  $2-3).  — Opposite  lies  — 


256  Route  30. 


CORNWALL.  St,  Lawrence  River, 


83  M.  (r.)  Ogdensburg  {Seymour  Ho..,  $2-3;  Windsor,  Norman, 
$2),  a city  with  12,633  inhab.  and  a.  trade  in  grain.  From  Ogdens- 
burg  to  Rouse's  Point,  see  p.  150;  to  Rome  and  Utica,  see  p.  233. 

About  10  M.  below  Ogdensburg  we  pass  through  the  Galoup 
Rapid  (71/2  M.  long),  which  is  followed,  41/2  M.  lower,  by  the  Ra- 
pide  Plat.  Neither  of  these  is  very  noticeable,  though  each  is  avoided 
by  a canal  (Canadian  side)  in  going  upstream.  Between  them  we 
pass  the  narrowest  point  in  the  river  (500  ft.).  Numerous  islands. 

95  M.  (1.)  Morrishurg,  just  below  the  Rapide  Plat. 

109  M.  (r.)  Louisville  Landing,  whence  stages  run  to  (7  M.) 
Massena  Springs  (Hatfield  Ho.,  $2^/2]  White,  $2-3;  comp.  p.  234). 

109  M.  (1.)  Dickinsons  Landing,  at  the  head  of  the  *Long  Sault 
Rapids,  between  the  Canadian  shore  and  Long  Sault  Island.  The 
rapids  are  9 M.  long  and  are  tumultuous  enough  to  give  a slight 
suggestion  of  danger  to  the  process  of  ‘shooting’  them.  They  are 
avoided  in  ascending  by  the  Cornwall  Canal,  II1/2M.  long. 

121  M.  (1.)  Cornwall  {Rossmore  Ho.,  $2),  a town  of  6700  in- 
hab., at  the  foot  of  the  Long  Sault  Rapids.  — The  boundary  between 
the  United  States  and  Canada  bends  away  from  the  river  here,  and  the 
Indian  village  of  St.  Regis,  opposite  Cornwall,  is  in  the  Province  of 
Quebec.  The  Adirondack  Mts.  (p.  209)  are  now  visible  to  the  right. 

135  M.  Lancaster  lies  on  the  expansion  of  the  river  named  Lake 
St.  Francis,  28  M.  long  and  5-7  M.  wide.  Nearly  opposite  is  Stanley 
Island  (Algonquin  Hotel).  — Beyond  (142  M.)  Port  Louis  (r.)  both 
banks  are  in  Quebec. 

At  (151  M.)  Coteau  Landing  the  river  is  crossed  by  a railway 
swing-bridge  (comp.  Baedeker  s Canada).  We  now  enter  a series  of 
rapids  which  follow  each  other  at  short  intervals,  with  a combined 
length  of  about  11  M. : Coteau  Rapid,  Cedar  Rapid,  Split  Rock  Rapid, 
and  the  * Cascades.  These  are  avoided,  in  going  upstream,  by  the 
Beauharnois  Canal,  11 V4  long.  The  large  Roman  Catholic 

churches  of  the  villages  that  line  the  banks  are  now  very  conspicuous. 

164  M.  (r.)  Beauharnois,  at  the  foot  of  this  series  of  rapids,  lies 
opposite  the  mouth  of  thQ  Ottawa  River , which  enters  the  St.  Lawrence 
by  two  channels,  enclosing  the  island  of  Perrot.  The  village  of 
Ste.  Anne,  on  theE.  bank  of  the  E.  branch,  is  the  scene  of  Tom  Moore’s 
well-known  ‘Canadian  Boat  Song’.  — The  Lake  St.  Louis,  which 
we  now  traverse,  is  12-15  M.  long. 

180  M.  (1.)  Lachine  (Dominion,  $2;  Imperial;  Lake  View)  lies 
at  the  head  of  the  famed  ^Lachine  Rapids,  the  shortest  (3  M.)  but 
most  violent  of  aU,  forming  an  exciting  and  dramatic  close  to  our 
voyage.  The  rapids  begin  just  below  the  fine  bridge  of  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway.  Soon  after  leaving  the  rapids  we  pass  under  the 
* Victoria  Jubilee  Bridge.  To  the  left  lies  — 

194  M.  Montreal  (see  Baedeker  s Handbook  to  Canada). 


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267 


31.  From  New  York  to  Philadelphia. 

a.  Vi^  Pennsylvania  Railroad. 

90  M.  Railway  in  2V4-2V2  hrs.  (fare  $21/2^  parlor-car  50  c.).  The  huge 
railway-station  is  in  Jersey  City  (p.  85  ferries  from  23rd  St.,  Desbrosses  St., 
Cortlandt  St.,  and  Brooklyn). 

Jersey  City^  see  p.  67,  The  train  runs  to  the  W.  to  (9  M.)  Newark 
[Continental,  $2-3),  a prosperous  city  on  the  Passaic,  with  (1900) 
246,070  inhab.,  handsome  churches,  pleasant  parks,  large  breweries, 
and  extensive  manufactures  of  jewelry,  iron  goods,  celluloid,  paper, 
and  leather  (value  in  1900,  $ 127,000,000).  One  of  the  most  notable 
buildings  in  the  city  is  the  office  of  the  Prudential  Insurance  Co., 
designed  by  Geo.  B.  Post,  with  interior  decorations  by  Blashfield 
and  Mowbray  Siddons.  Among,  the  numerous  private  galleries  of  art, 
in  which  the  Barbizon  school  is  especially  well  represented,  are  those 
of  Dr.  Leslie  D.  Ward  and  Senator  Dryden.  Newark  was  the  birth- 
place of  Aaron  Burr  (1756-1836).  The  railway  passes  through  the 
town  ‘at  grade’.  — At  (14  M.)  Elizabeth  (Burkely  Hotel,  $2^2)?  ^ 
well  laid-out  city  with  (1900)  52,130  inhab.,  we  cross  the  Central 
R.R.  of  New  Jersey.  A tablet  to  mark  the  original  site  of  the  College 
of  New  Jersey  (see  below)  was  unveiled  here  in  1897.  — 1972 
Rahway,  with  (1900)  7935  inhab.  and  considerable  trade  and  manu- 
factures.— 24  M.  Menlo  Park,  the  former  home  of  Thomas  A.  Edison, 
the  ‘Wizard  of  Menlo  Park’.  — 31  M.  New  Brunswick  (Mansion  Ho., 
Palmer  Ho.,  $2-3),  on  the  Raritan,  a manufacturing  city  of  (1900) 
20,000  inhab.,  is  the  site  of  Rutgers  College  (seen  to  the  right),  a 
ell-known  institution  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  chartered  in 
1766  (225  students).  In  entering  the  city  we  cross  a bridge  over 
the  river,  the  Delaware  ^ Raritan  Canal,  and  the  road.  ■ — At  (41  M.) 
Monmouth  Junction  diverges  the  line  to  Long  Branch,  etc.  (R.  33  c). 
— 47  M.  Princeton  Junction,  for  the  branch  to  (3  M.)  Princeton 
(*Princeton  Inn,  $4;  The  Nassau,  $272)?  with  (1900)  3900  in- 
habitants. Princeton  is  the  home  of  ex-President  Cleveland. 

Princeton  University,  formerly  The  College  of  New  Jersey , founded  at 
Elizabeth  (see  above)  in  1746  and  transferred  to  Princeton  in  1757,  ranks 
high  among  the  American  universities  and  is  attended  by  about  1530 
students.  The  university  buildings,  among  the  chief  of  which  are  Nassau 
Hall.  Alexander  Hall,  Marquand  Chapel,  the  John  C.  Green  School  of  Science, 
the  Library  (180,000  vols.),  Blair  Hall,  Little  Hall,  and  the  new  Gymnasium, 
stand  in  a beautiful  tree-shaded  ‘campus',  225  acres  in  extent.  The  last 
three  building,  situated  on  the  W,  margin  of  the  campus,  are  among 
the  finest  examples  of  the  collegiate  Gothic  style  in  America.  The  Con- 
tinental Congress  sat  at  Nassau  Hall  from  June  16th  to  Nov.  4th,  1783,  and 
here  Washington  received  the  nation's  thanks  for  his  successful  conduct  of 
the  Revolution-  The  boating  lake  was  created  at  the  expense  of  Mr.  Andrew 
Carnegie  by  damming  up  the  stream  that  flows  past  the  university.  — The 
Princeton  Theological  Seminary  (Presbyterian),  a separate  institution,  has 
about  170  students.  — The  Battle  of  Princeton  (Jan.  3rd,  1777),  in  which 
Washington  defeated  the  British,  was  one  of  the  most  important  in  the 
early  part  of  the  Revolutionary  struggle.  — At  Rocky  Hill,  4 M.  to  the  N. 
of  Princeton,  is  the  house  where  Washington  wrote  his  Farewell  Address 
to  the  Army  in  1783,  now  preserved  as  a historical  museum  (adm.  25  c.).  — 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Eilit.  17 


258  Route  31. 


PLAINFIELD. 


The  Lawrenceville  School^  5 M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Princeton,  ranks  among  the 
best  in  the  country. 

The  line  now  descends  towards  the  Delaware.  — 57  M.  Trenton 
( Winds  or  j $ 272“3,  R.  from  $ 1 ; Trenion^  American^  $ 2-3),  the  capital 
of  New  Jersey,  is  a well-built  town,  situated  on  the  Delaware,  at 
the  head  of  navigation.  Pop.  (1900)  73,300.  Its  chief  industry  is 
the  making  of  pottery,  the  material  for  which  is  found  on  the  spot 
(total  value  of  manufactures  in  1900,  $ 31,645,695).  The  State  House 
is  a handsome  edifice  overlooking  the  river;  the  State  Lunatic  Asy- 
lum and  Penitentiary  are  large  buildings.  The  Delaware  ^ Raritan 
Canal  intersects  the  city. 

On  Dec.  26th,  1776,  Washington  crossed  the  Delaware  here  and  sur- 
prised and  routed  the  Hessians  under  Rail,  following  up  this  success  by 
the  battle  of  Jan.  2nd,  1777,  in  which  he  maintained  his  ground  against 
Lord  Cornwallis.  — Trenton  is  the  junction  of  a branch  to  Manunlca  Chunk 
and  the  Delaware  Water  Oap  (see  R.  28  c). 

Bordentown  {Bordentown  Ho..,  $ I1/2),  about  5 M.  to  the  S.  of  Trenton, 
was  from  1815  till  1832  the  home  of  Joseph  Bonaparte,  ex-king  of  Spain, 
whose  fine  park  is  still  shown. 

Crossing  the  Delaware,  we  now  enter  the  ‘Keystone  State’  of 
Pennsylvania  and  traverse  a rich  farming  country.  To  the  right  is 
the  canal.  At  (58  M.)  Morrisville  the  French  general  Moreau  lived 
from  1806  to  1813,  in  a house  built  by  Robert  Morris,  the  ‘banker 
of  the  Revolution’.  67  M.  Bristol.  As  we  approach  Philadelphia  we 
leave  the  Delaware  and  traverse  a district  full  of  mills,  manufac- 
tories, and  artizans’  dwellings.  81  M.  Frankford  is  the  junction  of 
the  ‘bridge’  trains  to  Atlantic  City  (see  p.  280).  85  M.  North  Phila- 
delphia (formerly  Germantown  Junction'),  an  important  suburban 
railway-centre  (comp.  p.  275). 

As  we  enter  Philadelphia  we  cross  and  recross  the  Schuylkill 
(‘Skoolkill’).  *Views  of  the  city  and  Fairmount  Park  (p.  273). 

90  M.  Philadelphia  (Broad  Street  Station),  see  p.  259. 

b.  Vi&  Royal  Blue  Line. 

(Bound  Brook  Route.) 

90  M.  Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey  and  Philadelphia  & Reading 
R.  R.  in  2-31/2  hrs.  (fares  as  above).  The  route  is  much  the  same  as  the 
Penna.  R.  R.  — ■ Station  in  Jersey  City  (see  p.  8;  ferry  from  Liberty  St.). 

Jersey  City,  see  p.  67.  The  train  crosses  Newark  Bay  hj  abridge 
2 M.  long,  with  views  of  Newark  (p.257)  to  the  right  and  Staten  Is- 
land (p.  66)  to  the  left.  10  M.  Elizabethport,  the  junction  of  branches 
to  Newark  and  to  the  New  Jersey  seaside-resorts  (R.  33),  is  the 
seat  of  the  Singer  Sewing  Machine  Co.  (5000  hands).  11^/2^.  Elizabeth 
(see  p.  257).  — 24  M.  Plainfield  (^Netherwood,  Kensington,  $ 2 V2  i 
Mountain  View  Inn,  oh  the  hills  near  the  town),  a pleasant  residential 
town  with  (1900)  15,369  inhabitants.  On  the  Orange  Hills,  to  the 
right,  is  Washington'' s Rock,  whence  that  general  is  said  to  have  ob- 
served the  movements  of  the  British  troops.  — At  (30  M.)  Bound 
Brook,  on  the  Raritan,  we  pass  on  to  the  tracks  of  the  Philadelphia 


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32.  Rmite.  259 


if  Reading  R.  R.  In  1777  the  Americans  were  defeated  here  hy  Lord 
Cornwallis.  The  line  now  traverses  corn-fields  and  orchards.  — From 
(57  M.)  Trenton  Junction  a short  hranch-line  runs  to  (4  M.)  Trenton 
(p.  258).  Our  line  crosses  the  Delaware  hy  a fine  bridge  (views) 
at  (60  M.)  Yardley.  67  M.  Langhorne^  a summer- resort  of  the  Phila- 
delphians; 79  M.  Jenkintown,  the  junction  of  a line  to  Bethlehem 
(p.  281).  From  (85  M.)  Wayne  Junction  lines  radiate  in  all  directions 
(comp.  p.  281),  and  the  New  York  & Washington  expresses  of  the 
B.  & 0.  R.  R.  here  connect  with  the  Phil.  & Reading  R.  R.  system. 

90  M.  Philadelphia  (Reading  Terminal  Station ; see  below). 


32.  Philadelphia. 

Railway  Stations.  Broad  Street  Station  (Pl.F,  6;  restaurant),  facing  the 
City  Hall,  for  the  trains  of  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  to  New  York,  Baltimore, 
Washington,  Pittsburg,  Chicago,  Gettysburg,  Atlantic  City,  and  numerous 
local  lines;  Reading  Terminal  Station  (PI.  F,  6 ; restaurant),  of  the  Phila- 
delphia and  Reading  R.R.,  for  New  York  (R.  31b),  Washington,  Baltimore, 
Gettysburg,  Lehigh  Valley,  etc.;  Baltimore  & Ohio  Station  (PI.  E,  6;  re- 
staurant), cor.  of  Chestnut  St.  and  24th  St.,  for  Washington,  the  West,  etc. ; 
West  Philadelphia  Station  (PI.  D,  6),  a secondary  station  of  the  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  for  all  lines  (some  of  the  trains  between  New  York  and  the  South 
touch  here  only  and  do  not  run  into  the  Broad  St.  Station);  West  Jersey 
R.  R.  Station  (PI.  I,  6),  Camden,  reached  by  ferry  from  Market  St.  (see 
PI.  H,  I,  6),  for  Cape  May,  Atlantic  City,  and  the  Amboy  Division  of  the 
Penna.  R.  R. ; Philadelphia  & Atlantic  City  R.  R.  Station  (PI.  I,  8),  Camden 
(ferry  from  Chestnut  St.  or  South  St.),  for  Atlantic  City,  etc.  — Tramways 
run  from  all  these  stations  or  ferries  to  the  chief  centres  of  the  city,  and 
Hotel  Omnibuses  (25  c.)  meet  the  principal  trains.  Cahs^  see  p.  260. 

Hotels.  *Bellevue-Stratford  (PI.  a;  F,  6),  Broad  and  Walnut  Sts., 
a huge  edifice  resembling  the  Waldorf-Astoria  at  New  York  and  under 
the  same  management,  R.  from  $21/2;  Hotel  Flanders,  Walnut  and  I5th 
Sts.  (PI.  F,  6),  R.  from  $ 2;  Stenton  (PI.  1;  F,  7),  Broad  St.,  cor.  Spruce  St., 
R.  from  $ 11/2;  St.  James,  Walnut  and  13th  Sts.  (PI.  F,  6),  $4-6;  Walton 
(PI.  k;  F,  6,  7),  a large  house  at  the  cor.  of  Broad  and  Locust  Sts.,  R. 
from  $172;  Rittenhouse  (PI.  b;  E,  6),  Chestnut  St.,  cor.  of  22nd  St., 
$ 31/2-4,  R.  $ 11/2-2;  Colonnade  (PI.  d:  F,  6),  Chestnut  and  15th  Sts.,  from 
$ 31/2,  R.  from  $ 1;  Aldine  (PI.  e;  E,  6),  1910  Chestnut  St.,  a good  fami.ly 
hotel,  $31/2-6,  R.  $ 1-5;  Lorraine  (PI.  n;  F,  4),  cor.  N.  Broad  St.  and  Fair- 
mount  Ave.,  at  some  distance  from  the  centre  of  the  city,  $31/2;  Nor- 
mandie, Chestnut  and  36th  Sts.  (PI.  C,  6),  from  $ 31/2;  Continental  (PI.  f; 
G,  6),  9th  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  $21/2-4,  R.  from  $1;  Green’s  (PI.  h;  G,  6), 
8th  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  R.  $ I-I1/2;  Bingham  (PI.  i;  F,  6),  llth  and  Market 
Sts.,  $ 21/2,  R.  $ 1,  well  spoken  of;  Windsor  (PI.  c;  F,  6),  1225  Filbert  St., 
from  $2,  R.  from  $1;  Dooner’s,  27  S.  10th  St.,  R.  $1-2  (men  only),  very 
fair;  Hanover  (PI.  g;  F,  6),  12th  and  Arch  Sts.,  from  $ 21/2,  R.  from  $ 1; 
Vendig  (PI.  m ; F,  6),  12th  land  Market  Sts.,  R,  $ I-21/2. 

Restaurants.  ^Bellevue-Stratford Hotels  see  above,  somewhat  expensive; 
"Boldt^  Bullitt  Building,  4th  St.,  below  Chestnut  St.;  Hotel  Walton  Cafi^ 
see  above;  Colonnade  Hotels  see  above;  Dooner^  see  above;  Oreen^  see  above, 
D.  60  c. ; Soulas’’  Rathskeller  & Restaurant^  in  the  basement  of  the  Betz  Build- 
ing (p.  263),  City  Hall  Square,  D.  (from  12  to  3)  50c.;  Soulas^  5th  St., 
above  Chestnut  St.,  for  men;  Booihhy ^ 1233  Chestnut  St.,  near  13th  St. 
(oysters);  Partridge^  15  N.  8th  St.;  Sooy^  1309  WaJnut  St.;  Wanamakers^'' 
see  p.  262;  DenneWs  Lunch  Rooms ^ 529  Chestnut  St.,  13  S.  9th  St.,  and  122 
& 1309  Market  St.  (low  prices);  Bourse  Restaurant^  see  p.  264;  Women's 
Exchange^  12th  St.,  to  the  S.  of  Chestnut  St. 


17* 


260  Route  32. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Practical  Note^^. 


Tramways  (Street  Cars).  Electric  Cars  traverse  all  tlie  principal  streets 
(fare  5 c.,  transfer-tickets  8 c.).  Cars  run  to  the  E.  on  Columbia  Ave. 
Jefferson,  Girard  Ave.,  Wallace,  Green,  Spring  Garden,  Callowhill,  Race’ 
Arch,  Filbert,  Market,  Chestnut,  Spruce,  snd  Lombard  Streets;  to  the  w! 
on  Columbia  Ave.,  Master,  Girard  Ave.,  Poplar,  Fairmount  Ave.,  Spring 
Garden,  CallowhilJ,  Vine,  Arch,  Market,  Sansom,  Walnut,  Pine,  and  S^outh 
Streets;  to  the  N.  on  3rd,  5th,  8th,  9th,  11th,  13th,  16th,  18th,  19th  and 
23rd  Streets;  to  the  S.  on  2nd,  4th,  6th,  7th,  10th,  12th,  15th,  17th  ’l9th 
20th,  and  23rd  Streets.  ’ ’ 

Cabs.  — (1).  Pennsylvania  R,R.  Service.  Hansoms  (1-2  pers.)  IV2  M.,  25c. 
each  1 M.  addit.  15  c.,  per  hr.  65c.,  each  addit.  1/4  hr.  20c.;  no  trunks 
carried.  Four-wheelers  : 1-2  pers.,  40c.,  20c.,  75c.,  20c.;  each  addit.  pers. 
10  c. ; each  trunk  25c.  , small  article  carried  outside  10c.  — (2).  Reading 
R.R.  Service.  Four-wheelers,  1-2  pers.  50c.,  25c.,  75c.,  25c.;  each  addit.  pers. 
25c.  — (3).  City  Service.  Carriages  (two  horses):  1 pers.,  1 M.  75c.,  2 pers 
$1.25,  each  addit.  pers.  25c.;  2 M.,  $1.25,  $1.75,  25c.;  each  1 M.  addit.* 
each  pers.  50c. ; per  hr.,  1-2  pers.,  $ 1.50,  each  pers.  addit.  25c.  One  trunk 
or  valise  free,  each  extra  article  of  luggage  6c. 

Ferries  cross  the  Delaware  to  Camden  (p.  275)  from  Market,  Vine 
South,  Chestnut,  and  Shack amaxon  Sts.  (3  c.),  and  to  Gloucester  (p.  275) 
from  South  St.  (10  c.).  ^ 

Steamers.  Steamers  ascend  the  Delaware  to  Burlington  and  other 
points.  Steamers  also  ply  to  Liverpool.^  London.,  Antwerp.,  Hamburg.,  New  York 
Boston,  Baltimore,  Savannah,  Charleston,  Florida,  Jamaica,  etc.  ’ 

Theatres.  Garrick  (PI.  F,  6),  Chestnut  St.;  Academy  of  Music  (PI.  F 7) 
Broad  St.,  cor.  of  Locust  St.  (2900  seats),  used  for  operas,  concerts,  balls’ 
etc.;  Chestnut  Street  Opera  House  (PI.  G,  6),  1023  Chestnut  St.;  Chestnut 
Street  Theatre  (PI.  F,  6),  1211  Chestnut  St.;  Broad  St.  Theatre  (PI.  F 7) 
near  Locust  St. ; Walnut  St.  Theatre,  cor.  Walnut  and  9th  Sts  (PI  g’  6)  • 
KeitKs  New  Theatre  (PI.  F,  6),  Chestnut  St. ; Arch  Street  Theatre  (PI.  g’  6)’ 
613  Arch  St.,  for  German  plays  (1800  seats);  Park  Theatre  {P\.  F,  4),  Broad 
St.,  cor.  of  Fairmount  Ave.  (2200  seats);  Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  F,  3) 
N.  Broad’  St.,  cor.  of  Montgomery  Ave. ; Eleventh  Street  Opera  House  (PI.  F,  6)’ 
near  Chestnut  St.  (minstrel  entertainments);  Gilmore'' s Auditorium,  Walnut 
St.,  between  8th  and  9th  Sts.  (PI.  G,6);  Kensington  Theatre,  cor.  E.  Norris  St 
and  Frankford  Ave.  (PI.  H,  2);  National  Theatre  (PI.  G,  5),  10th  St.  and 
Callowhill  St.  (varieties) ; 'Washington  Park  Theatre,  see  p.  275.  — BostocYs 
N.  Broad  St.  (p.  266),  for  performances  by  trained  animals.  — Zoological 
Garden,  see  p.  275. 


Clubs.  Philadelphia,  N.W.  cor.  13th  and  Walnut  Sts. ; Rittenhouse  1811 
Walnut  St. ; University,  1510  Walnut  St. ; Union  League  (PI.  F,  6),  Broad  St. 
cor.  of  Sansom  St.;  Markham,  1424  Walnut  St.;  Lawyers,  1507  Walnut  St  • 
Mercantile  Club  (PI.  F,  3),  N.  Broad  St.,  cor.  of  Master  St.;  Art  Club,  see 
p.  270.  — The  well-known  dinners  of  the  Clover  Club  are  usually  held  in 
the  old  Bellevue  Hotel.  Philadelphia  is  the  American  head(j^uarters  of 
Cricket.  The  chief  clubs  are  the  Belmont,  near  49th  St.  Station;  Mei'ion 
at  Ardmore;  Philadelphia,  Wissahickon  Heights;  Germantown,  at  Manheim’ 
near  Queen  Lane  Station.  ’ 


Tourist  Agents.  Raymond  & Whitcomb  Co.,  1005  Chestnut  St.;  Thos. 
Cook  (b  Son,  828  Chestnut  St. 

Post  Office  (PI.  G,  6),  cor.  of  Chestnut  and  9th  Sts.;  also  several  sub- 
stations and  numerous  letter-boxes. 


Exhibitions  of  Art.  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  see  p.  266 ; Memorial  Hall, 
Fairmount  Park,  see  p.  274;  Art  Club,  see  p.  270. 

British  Consul,  Mr.  Wilfrid  Powell,  255  S.  4th  St. 

Philadelphia  (the  ‘Quaker  City’),  the  third  city  of  the  United 
States  in  extent  and  population  (1,293,700  inhab.  in  1900),  lies 
mainly  upon  a broad  plain  between  the  Delaware  and  the  Schuylkill, 
96  M.  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  is  22  M.  long  from  N.  to  S.  and 


History. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


32.  Route.  261 


5' 10  M.  wide,  covering  130  sq.  M.,  or  a little  more  than  the  parlia- 
mentary district  of  London,  though,  of  course,  not  so  completely 
built  over.  It  probably  contains  a larger  proportion  of  small  houses 
than  any  other  large  city  in  the  world  (4.5  inhab.  per  house;  New 
York  16.37)  and  is  sometimes  called  the  ‘City  of  Homes’.  It  is  laid 
out  with  chessboard  regularity  (see  below)  and  contains  1500  M. 
of  streets,  of  which  900  M.  are  paved  and  225  M.  macadamized. 
The  characteristic  Philadelphia  house  is  a two-storied  or  three- 
storied structure  of  red  pressed  brick,  with  white  marble  steps  and 
white  or  green  window-shutters.  The  two  rivers  give  it  about  30  M. 
of  water-front  for  docks  and  wharfage,  and  it  is  the  headquarters  of 
two  of  the  greatest  American  railways  (the  Pennsylvania  and  the 
Reading).  Its  commerce  by  sea  and  land  is  very  large,  and  as  a 
manufacturing  centre  it  ranks  next  to  New  York  and  Chicago.  The 
great  wholesale  business-thoroughfare  is  Market  Street,  running 
E.  and  W.  between  the  two  rivers,  while  Chestnut  Street,  parallel 
with  it  on  the  S.,  contains  the  finest  shops,  the  newspaper- offices, 
etc.  Broad  Street  is  the  chief  street  running  N.  and  S.  Among 
the  most  fashionable  residence-quarters  are  Rittenhouse  Square  and 
the  W.  parts  of  Walnut^  Spruce^  and  Pine  Streets.  Eighth  Street  is 
the  great  district  for  cheap  shops. 

History.  Philadelphia,  the  ‘City  of  Brotherly  Love’  or  ‘Quaker  City’, 
was  founded  in  1682  by  a Quaker  colony  under  William  Penn  (1644-1718), 
who  purchased  the  site  from  its  Indian  owners.  [A  Swedish  colony,  how- 
ever, settled  on  the  Delaware,  a little  lower  down,  in  1638  (comp.  p.  271), 
and  many  of  Penn’s  original  patentees  were  descendants  of  these  settlers.] 
The  city  attracted  large  numbers  of  immigrants  and  received  its  charter 
from  Penn  in  1701,  when  it  had  about  4500  inhabitants.  From  about  that 
time  to  the  19th  century  it  rivalled  Boston  as  the  leading  city  of  the 
country,  and  it  was  the  scene  of  the  most  important  ofdcial  steps  in  the 
Revolution.  The  first  Continental  Congress  assembled  here  in  1774;  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed  here  on  July  4th,  1778;  the  Con- 
stitution of  the  United  States  was  drawn  up  and  promulgated  here  in  1/87 ; the 
first  President  of  the  United  States  resided  here;  and  here  Congress  assem- 
bled till  1797.  From  Sept.,  1777,  to  June,  1778,  the  city  was  in  the  posses- 
sion of  the  British.  During  the  19th  century  its  history  was  one  of  quiet 
and  rapid  growth.  In  1876  Philadelphia  was  the  scene  of  the  Centennial 
Exhibition.!  held  in  honour  of  the  100th  anniversary  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence.  — After  William  Penn,  the  man  whose  name  is  most  in- 
timately associated  with  Philadelphia  is  Benjamin  Franklin  (pp.  266,  271), 
who  came  here  in  1723  at  the  age  of  eighteen.  The  Friends  or  Quakers 
still  form  a very  important  element  in  Philadelphia,  many  of  the  oldest, 
wealthiest,  and  most  esteemed  families  belonging  to  this  sect. 

Industry  and  Commerce.  The  value  of  the  manufactures  of  Phila- 
delphia in  1900  was  $ 603,500,000  (120,700,000/.),  the  number  of  hands  em- 
ployed being  247,000.  The  chief  products  are  machinery,  locomotives,  iron 
wares,  ships,  carpets,  woollen  and  cotton  goods,  leather,  sugar,  drugs,  and 
chemicals.  The  value  of  its  exports  in  1903  was  $73,318,516.  In  11.03  the 
port  was  entered  and  cleared  by  2007  sea-going  vessels,  with  an  aggregate 
tonnage  of  3,369,575,  and  by  2395  coasting  vessels  of  3,157,447  tons. 

Streets.  In  planning  his  city  Penn  laid  out  two  wide  thoroughfares 
crossing  it  at  right  angles  (High,  now  Market  St.,  and  Broad  St.),  with 
an  open  space  at  their  intersection  and  four  other  squares  (Washington, 
Franklin,  Logan,  and  Rittenhouse  Squares)  near  the  outer  corners  of  his 
plan.  The  other  streets  were  all  laid  out  parallel  to  the  two  above-named, 
and  this  rule  has  also  been  observed  in  the  subsequent  extensions  o f the 


262  Route  32. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


City  Hall. 


city.  Those  parallel  to  Market  St.  have  names  (often  taken  from  trees), 
while  those  parallel  with  Broad  St.  are  numbered  (Front,  Second,  etc.). 
The  prefixes  North  and  South  distinguish  respectively  the  numbered  streets 
to  the  N.  and  S.  of  Market  St.  The  houses  on  the  N.  or  E.  side  of  the 
street  have  odd  numbers,  and  those  on  the  S.  or  W.  side  even  numbers. 
The  numbers  of  the  E.  and  W.  streets  begin  at  the  Delaware,  those  of  the 
N.  and  S.  streets  at  Market  St.  With  each  new  block  a new  century  of 
numbers  begins,  although  there  are  seldom  more  than  40  numbers  in  a 
block.  With  this  system  a very  slight  familiarity  with  the  city  enables 
one  to  find  his  way  to  any  house.  Thus,  e.c^.,  1521  Arch  St.  must  be 
between  N.  15th  St,  and  N.  Ibth  St. 

In  City  Hall  Square  (PI.  F,  6) , at  tlie  intersection  of  Broad 
St.  and  Market  St.,  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  stands  City  Hall 
(PI.  F,  6),  generally  known  as  the  Public  Buildings^  a huge  pile  with 
a granite  basement-story  and  white  marble  superstructure,  begun 
in  1874.  It  is  486  ft.  long  from  N.  to  S.  and  470  ft.  in  breadth, 
covering  a greater  area  (4^2  acres)  than  any  other  building  in  the 
United  States  (Capitol  at  Washington,  3^2  acres;  St.  Peter’s  at 
Rome,  45/0  acres;  Palais  de  Justice  at  Brussels,  61/4  acres).  The 
Tower j 510  ft.  high,  is  surmounted  by  a statue  of  William  Penn, 
37  ft.  in  height.  The  style  of  the  building  is  modified]  French 
Renaissance;  the  architect  was  John  McArthur  Jr.  (d.  1890).  Its  cost, 
including  the  furnishing,  was  about  $25,000,000.  Visitors  may 
ascend  to  the  roof  (elevators),  which  commands  an  extensive  view ; 
a special  permit  (obtained  in  Room  113)  is  necessary  for  the  tower. 

The  building  contains  750  rooms.  The  N.  side  is  devoted  to  the  Mayor'^s 
Office.,  the  Council  Chamber^  and  other  offices  of  the  municipal  government. 
The  S.  side  contains  the  Supreme  Court  of  Pennsylvania  and  other  courts. 

The  broad  pavement  round  the  City  Hall  is  to  be  adorned  with  statues. 
Those  of  Gen.  Reynolds  (1820-63),  Gen.  McClellan  (1826-85),  and  Stephen  Girard 
(p.  2T0)  have  already  been  erected. 

On  the  W.  side  of  City  Hall  Sq.,  opposite  the  City  Hall,  is  the 
*Broad  Street  Station  (PI.  F,  6)  of  the  Penna.  Railroad,  an  enormous 
structure,  lately  rebuilt.  The  train-shed  has  a span  of  304  ft.  The 
handsome  waiting-room  contains  a large  allegorical  relief , while 
one  wall  is  covered  with  a mammoth  railway  map  of  the  United 
States.  Adjacent  is  the  Arcade  Building.,  connected  with  the  station 
by  an  overhead  bridge  over  Market  St.,  forming  a convenient  mode 
of  reaching  the  trains.  — On  the  N.  side  of  the  square,  at  the  corner 
of  Broad  St.  and  Filbert  St.,  is  the  ^Masonic  Temple  (PI.  F,  6),  a 
huge  granite  structure  in  the  Norman  style,  erected  in  1868-73  at 
a cost  of  $ 1,500,000  (300, 000^.).  Among  its  most  prominent  features 
are  the  tower,  250  ft.  high,  and  the  elaborately  carved  Norman  porch. 
The  lodge-rooms  are  finished  in  accordance  with  seven  different  styles 
of  architecture  (Egyptian,  Ionic,  Corinthian,  Norman,  Gothic,  Renais- 
sance, and  Oriental).  — On  the  E.  side  of  the  square,  occupying  the 
block  bounded  by  the  square,  Market  St^  13th  St.,  and  (Chestnut 
St.,  is  Wanamaker's  Store  (PI.  F,  6J  the  Bon  Marche  or  Whiteley’s 
of  Philadelphia,  with  4500  employees  (restaurant,  see  p.  259).  — On 
the  S.  side  of  the  square  is  the  tall  Betz  Building.,  completed  in  1893. 

^Chestnut  Street  (PI.  A-H,  6)  is  the  chief  street  of  Philadelphia, 


Independence  Hall.  PHILADELPHIA. 


3^.  Route.  263 


containing  many  of  tlie  liandsomest  and  most  interesting  buildings; 
and  we  now  follow  it  towards  tbe  Delaware  (E.  or  left).  The  S. 
side  pavement  is  the  fashionable  promenade  of  the  Quaker  City.  To 
the  left,  at  the  corner  of  Broad  St.  and  adjoining  the  Betz  Building 
(p.  262)  on  the  S.,  is  the  Oirard  Trust  Building.,  while  to  the  riglit 
rises  the  fine  office  of  the  ^Real  Estate  Trust  Co.  At  the  corner  of 
12th  St.  (left)  is  the  tall  Commonwealth  Trust  Building^  and  at  the 
corner  of  10th  St.,  on  the  same  side,  is  the  New  York  Mutual  Life 
Insurance  Co.  At  1217  Chestnut  St.  are  the  temporary  headquarters 
of  the  Philadelphia  Free  Library  (250,000  vols.),  which  has  fourteen 
branches  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  while  Mr.  Carnegie  has  offered 
a sum  of  $ 1,500,000  for  the  erection  of  other  thirty. 

In  12th  St.,  to  the  N.,  is  the  William  Penn  Charter  School  foxinded  in 
1689.  In  10th  St.,  also  to  the  N.,  is  the  Mercantile  Library  (Pl.G,  6),  with 
210,000  vols.  and  a free  reading-room  (9-10).  — In  the  same  street,  to  the 
S.,  is  the  Jefferson  Medical  College  (PI.  Gr,  6),  with  an  anatomical  museum. 

Between  10th  and  9th  Sts.,  to  the  left,  are  the  City  Trust  Co.., 
the  Penn  Mutual  Life  Building  (with  an  elaborate  fagade),  and  tbe 
Office  of  the  ^Record'.  At  the  corner  of  9th  St.,  extending  on  the  N.  to 
Market  St.,  is  the  '^Tost  Office  (PI.  G,  6),  a large  granite  building  in 
the  Renaissance  style,  erected  at  a cost  of  $ 5,000,000  (1,000, 000  L). 
It  also  contains  the  United  States  Courts  and  the  offices  of  various 
Federal  officials.  In  front  of  the  Post  Office  is  a colossal  seated  figure 
of  Benjamin  Franklin  (1706-90),  by  John  J.  Boyle  (1900).  Between 
8th  and  7th  Sts.  (left)  is  the  highly  ornamented  front  of  the  Union 
Trust  Co.  This  neighbourhood  contains  a large  number  of  news- 
paper-offices. At  the  corner  of  6th  St.,  on  the  Public  Ledger  Build- 
ing, is  another  statue  of  Franklin. 

In  7th  St,,  a little  to  the  N.  of  Chestnut  St.,  is  the  FranJclin  Institute 
(PI.  G,  6),  with  a library,  museum,  and  lecture-hall.  Opposite  is  the  free 
exhibition  of  the  Builders’'  Exchange. 

¥/e  now  reach,  on  the  right,  between  5th  and  6th  Sts.,  ^Independ- 
ence  Hall  (PI.  G,  6),  or  the  old  State  Rouse  (open  on  week-days, 
9-4),  a modest  brick  edifice  (1732-35),  which  is  in  some  respects 
the  most  interesting  building  in  the  United  States.  The  steeple  was 
added  afterwards.  Here  the  Continental  Congress  met  during  the 
American  Revolution  (1775-81),  and-  here,  on  July  4th,  1776,  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  was  adopted.  In  1897-98  the  whole 
building  was  restored  as  far  as  possible  to  its  original  condition. 

Passing  through  the  door  in  the  centre,  we  first  enter  (right)  the  State 
Supreme  Court  or  West  Room,  containing  the  original  court  chairs  and  portraits 
of  Chief  Justices  McKean,  Chew,  and  Allen. 

To  the  left  is  the  East  Room  or  Independence  Hall  proper,  the  actual 
scene  of  the  deliberations  of  those  statesmen  of  whom  William  Pitt  wrote : 
‘I  must  declare  that  in  all  my  reading  and  observation,  for  solidity  of 
reasoning,  force  of  sagacity^  and  wisdom  of  conclusion,  under  such  a 
complication  of  difficult  circumstances,  no  body  of  men  could  stand  before 
the  National  Congress  of  Philadelphia’.  With  the  exception  of  a new 
flooring,  the  room  is  substantially  in  the  same  state  as  when  the  Congress 
sat,  and  the  old  furniture  has  been  replaced  in  it,  including  the  table  on 
which  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed.  On  the  back  of  the 
chair  of  the  President  of  the  Congress  (John  Hancock)  is  the  emblem  of 


264  Route  32. 


PHILADELPHIA.  Carpenters^  Hall, 


which  Franklin  said  that  he  had  often  wondered,  before  the  success  of  the 
Kevolution  was  assured,  whether  it  was  the  rising  or  the  setting  sun.  On 
the  E.  wall  hangs  a facsimile  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  of  which 
the  original  is  preserved  at  Washington  (see  p.  320).  Also  on  the  walls 
are  portraits  of  Washington  (by  Peale)  and  of  nearly  all  the  signers  of  the 
Declaration. 

On  the  upper  floor  we  first  enter  a Room  containing  portraits  of  Key 
(author  of '•The  Star  Spangled  Banner’),  William  Penn,  Robert  Morris, 
Patrick  Henry,  and  many  others,  the  original  Charter  of  Philadelphia  (1701), 
a piece  of  the  Penn  Treaty  Elm,  and  a picture  of  his  wampum  belt.  — 
The  Banqueting  Hall  contains  the  sofa  and  church-pew  of  George  Wash- 
ington, a painting  of  Penn’s  Treaty  with  the  Indians,  by  Benjamin  West.,  and 
portraits  of  Martha  Washington,  British  sovereigns,  Washington’s  generals, 
naval  officers,  and  other  worthies  of  the  Revolutionary  period.  Part  of 
the  original  floor-boards  are  shown  under  glass.  — The  Council  Chamber 
or  Governors''  Room  cont’ains  portraits  and  relics. 

In  the  small  back-hall  at  the  foot  of  the  staircase,  opposite  the  main 
entrance,  under  glass,  stands  the  famous  ^Liberty  Bell^  the  first  bell  rung 
in  the  United  States  after  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  It  was  after- 
wards used  on  various  occasions  of  national  importance,  but  was  cracked 
in  1835,  in  tolling  for  the  funeral  of  Chief  Justice  Marshall,  and  since  1843 
has  never  been  sounded.  It  was  originally  cast  in  England,  but  was  recast 
in  Philadelphia.  In  the  same  room  are  portraits  of  Marshall,  Penn,  Governor 
Hamilton,  and  the  Chevalier  Girard.  — On  the  walls  of  the  Stairway  are 
portraits  of  Lafayette,  Washington,  and  George  III. 

The  central  part  of  the  State  House  is  connected  by  open  arcades 
(restored  to  their  original  appearance)  with  two  smaller  wing -buildings, 
containing  a National  Museum  of  relics,  such  as  books,  posters,  wood-cuts, 
engravings,  newspapers,  costumes,  models,  views  and  plans  of  Philadelphia, 
the  ‘Serpent  Flag’,  and  Ben.  Franklin’s  lightning  rod.  Those  in  the  W. 
building  illustrate  the  Colonial,  those  in  the  E.  the  Revolutionary  Period. 
Adjoining  that  to  the  W.,  at  the  corner  of  6th  St.,  is  the  old  Congress 
Hall.,  in  which  Washington  was  inaugurated  in  1793  and  Adams  in  1797. 
To  the  E.,  at  the  corner  of  5th  St.,  is  the  Old  City  Hall.,  dating  from  1791 
and  occupied  by  the  U.  S.  Supreme  Court  in  1791-1800.  — In  front  of  the 
State  House  is  a Statue  of  Washington.,  by  Bailly,  erected  in  1869.  — Behind 
the  State  House  lies  Indepejidence  Square.,  an  open  space  4 acres  in  extent. 

Opposite  Independence  Hall  is  the  picturesque  gabled  building 
of  the  Pennsylvania  Trust  Co, 

In  S.  5th  St.,  just  below  Chestnut  St.,  is  the  American  Philosophical 
Society,  an  outgrowth  of  the  Junto  Club.,  founded  by  Franklin  in  1743. 
It  is  the  oldest  learned  society  in  the  United  States,  and  contains  a library 
of  65,000  vols.  and  many  interesting  relics. 

Beyond  5th  St.,  Chestnut  St.  is  flanked  on  both  sides  with  hand- 
some banks  and  insurance-offices.  At  the  corner  of  5th  St.,  to  the 
right,  is  the  white  marble  *Drexel  Building  (PI.  G,  6).  The  roof, 
to  which  visitors  are  admitted,  commands  an  excellent  view.  Ad- 
jacent is  the  Custom  House  (PI.  G,  6),  with  a Doric  portico,  orig- 
inally erected  in  1819-24  for  the  United  States  Bank. 

In  5th  St.,  to  the  N.  of  Chestnut  St.,  stands  the  "Bourse  (PI.  G,  6), 
erected  in  1895  at  a cost  of  $ 1,500,000,  and  containing  the  offices  of  the 
Board  of  Trade,  the  Commercial  Exchange,  and  other  business  organisa- 
tions. The  two  lower  stories  are  a good  example  of  the  style  of  Francis  I. 
Visitors  are  admitted  to  the  galleries  flanking  the  huge  glass-covered  hall. 
There  is  a restaurant  upstairs. 

A lane  diverging  to  the  right  between  4th  and  3rd  Sts.,  opposite  the 
Fidelity  Trust  Co..,  leads  to  ^Carpenters’  Hall  (PI.  G,  H,  6 ; open  on 
week-days,  9-3),  where  the  First  Colonial  Congress  assembled  in  1774. 


Historical  Society.  PHILADELI^IIIA. 


32.  Uoute.  265 


It  contains  tlie  chairs  used  at  the  Congress,  various  historical  relics, 
and  the  inscription : ‘Within  these  walls  Henry,  Hancock,  and  Adams 
inspired  the  delegates  of  the  colonies  with  nerve  and  sinew  for  the 
toils  of  war’.  — Chestnut  St.  ends  at  the  Delaware  Eiver. 

No.  133  South  Second  Street  occupies  the  site  of  the  ‘Slate-roof  House’, 
the  home  of  William  Penn. 

Walnut  Street  (PI.  A-H,  6)  runs  parallel  to  Chestnut  St.,  a 
little  to  the  S.  In  this  street,  at  the  intersection  of  Dock  St.  and 
3rd  St.,  is  the  Stock  Exchange^  formerly  the  Merchants*  Exchange 
(PI.  H,  6) , a recently  reconstructed  building  with  a semicircular 
portico  facing  towards  the  river  (visitors  admitted  to  the  gallery, 
10-3).  Near  it  (in  3rd  St.)  is  the  Girard  Bank^  originally  built  for 
the  first  U.S.  Bank  and  long  owned  by  Stephen  Girard  (p.  270).  At 
4th  St.  is  the  fine  building  of  the  Manhattan  Insurance  Co. 

Three  blocks  to  the  S.,  at  the  corner  of  Pine  St.  and  3rd  St.,  is  St.  Peter'' s 
Church  (PL  H,  7),  dating  from  1758-61  and  little  changed  in  appearance.  The 
brave  Commodore  Decatur  (1779-1820)  is  buried  in  the  old  churchyard. 

In  4th  St.,  to  the  S.  of  Walnut  St.,  is  the  Philadelphia  Commercial 
Museum  (PL  G,  6^  open  free  on  week-days  9-4,  Sun.  1-4),  established  in 
1S95,  to  disseminate  knowledge  of  the  products  and  requirements  of  different 
parts  of  the  world.  It  includes  interesting  collections,  samples  of  goods 
and  of  raw  materials,  testing  laboratories,  a bureau  of  information,  and 
a commercial  library.  Part  of  the  collections  has  already  been  removed 
to  the  new  buildings  in  34th  St.  (PL  C,  D,  7;  see  p.  272). 

Between  6th  and  7th  Sts.  Walnut  St.  passes  Washington  Square 
(PI.  G,  6,  7;  p.  261),  with  a great  variety  of  trees.  At  the  N.W. 
corner  of  Washington  Square  is  the  Philadelphia  Saving  Fund  Society., 
erected  in  1868  and  1897.  At  the  S.W.  corner  of  Walnut  and  10th 
Sts.  (PI.  G,  6)  is  the  Western  Saving  Fund  Society.  No.  1323  Wal- 
nut St.  contains  the  headquarters  of  the  Book  Lovers  ^ Tabard  Inn 
Libraries,  which  operate  both  in  the  United  States  and  England.  At 
the  N.W.  corner  of  Walnut  St.  and  Juniper  St.,  to  the  right,  is  the 
tall  Witherspoon  Building,  with  the  offices  and  historical  museum 
of  the  Presbyterian  Church  (North). 

Two  blocks  to  tbe  S.  of  Walnut  St.,  bounded  by  Spruce,  Pine,  8tb, 
and  9th  Sts.,  stands  the  Pennsylvania  Hospital  (PL  G,  7),  the  oldest  in  the 
city.  It  contains  West’s  picture  of  ‘Christ  healing  the  sick’,  and  in  the 
garden,  towards  Pine  St.,  is  a statue  of  William  Penn.  — No.  413  S.  10th  St., 
the  house  in  which  Henry  George  (d.  1897)  was  born,  has  been  fitted  up  as 
a memorial  ‘single  tax’  library  and  reading-room.  — At  the  corner  of 
Locust  St.  and  l3th  St.,  one  block  to  the  S.  of  Walnut  St,,  stands  the 
building  of  the  " Historical  Society  of  Pennsylvania  (PL  F,  7 ; open  9-5), 
founded  in  1824,  which  contains  highly  interesting  historical  relics,  paint- 
ings, and  autographs.  In  the  Fireproof  Room  on  the  groundfloor  are  a 
letter  of  President  Lincoln  (1864)  and  the  play-bill  of  the  theatre  on  the 
night  he  was  assassinated;  the  Bradford  Almanack  of  1686  (printed  1685), 
the  first  book  printed  in  the  Middle  States ; many  other  examples  of  Brad- 
ford.^ Franklin.,  and  other  printers  of  the' Middle  States  before  1800;  relics 
of  Washington^  Jefferson,  and  Franklin;  handbill  printed  at  Charleston  (1860), 
announcing  the  dissolution  of  the  Union;  William  Penn'' sBibl^  and  razor; 
the  OTiguiO^.  Instructions  of  Penn  regarding  Pennsylvania;  first  copy  of  Poor 
Richard'' s Almanack;  one  of  ilie.  Stamp  Act  stamps;  German  Bible  and  other 
works  printed  by  Christopher  Saur,  including  the  First  Bible  printed  in 
America.  — On  the  Upper  Floor  are  the  Tower  Collection  of  Colonial  Laws 
down  to  1789;  portraits  of  Penn,  Washington,  Franklin,  Morris,  etc.;  relics 


266  Route  32. 


PHILADELPHIA.  Philadelphia  Library. 


of  Robert  Morris;  the  News  of  the  Battle  of  Lexington.,  passed  on  to  Phila- 
delphia in  the  manner  of  the  ‘Fiery  Cross’  (Ap.  19-24th,  1775),  with  attesta- 
tions of  the  persons  through  whose  hands  it  passed;  letter  of  Washington ; 
original  MSS.  of  ‘Home,  Sweet  Home’  and  ‘The  Star-Spangled  Banner’’; 
telescope  of  Paul  Jones;  letters  and  will  of  John  Brown  (p.  328);  chairs  that 
belonged  to  Penn;  and  part  of  Franklin'' s Printing  Press  (front  room). 

At  the  N.E.  corner  of  Locust  and  13th  Sts.  is  the  College  of  Physi- 
cians (PL  F,  6),  incorporated  in  1787 , with  a fine  medical  library.  The 
large  hall,  in  which  the  Anatomical  Museum  is  displayed,  contains  a good 
chimney-piece. 

At  the  corner  of  Locust  St.  and  Juniper  St.  is  Vae,  Academy  of  the  Pro- 
testant Episcopal  Church.^  a well-equipped  and  well-managed  day-school  for 
boys,  founded  in  1785  and  of  considerable  interest  from  its  bearing  on  local 
history.  — The  Philadelphia  Library  (PI.  F,  6),  also  at  the  corner  of  Lo- 
cust St.  and  Juniper  St.,  was  founded  by  Dr.  Franklin  and  others  in  1731 
and  contains  220,000  vols.,  a clock  said  to  have  belonged  to  Cromwell, 
part  of  Franklin’s  electrical  machine,  and  other  relics. 

Walnut  St.  now  crosses  Broad  St.,  to  the  W.  of  which  it  consists 
mainly  of  private  residences.  No.  1524  is  the  home  of  Dr.  8.  Weir 
Mitchell,  the  novelist.  Between  18th  and  19th  Sts.  we  pass  Ritten- 
house  Square  (PI.  E,  6;  p.  261),  a fashionable  residence-quarter. 

*jSt.  Maries  Church,  Locust  St.,  between  16th  and  17th  Sts.,  is  a singularly 
pure  example  of  the  early  Decorated  Gothic  style. 

On  reaching  the  bridge  at  the  Schuylkill  River  (PI.  D,  6)  v.^e 
may  descend  the  flight  of  steps  to  the  right  and  follow  24th  St.  to 
the  spacious  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railway  Station  (PI.  E,  6),  which 
lies  on  the  river,  in  Chestnut  St.  Following  the  latter  street  towards 
the  E.,  we  pass  the  Lutheran  Church  of  the  Holy  Communion,  on 
the  right,  and  the  First  JJnitariar^^  Church  and  the  Swedenborgian 
Church  (cor.  22nd  St.)  on  the  left.  At  15th  St.  are  the  Colonnade 
Hotel  (p.  259 ; right)  and  the  Young  Mens  Christian  Association 
(PI.  F,  6;  r.),  containing  a fine  hall.  To  the  right,  at  the  corner  of 
Broad  St.,  is  the  tall  Land  Title  Building,  erected  in  1897-98  and 
extended  in  1904  (14  stories). 

We  now  again  reach  our  starting-point  at  Broad  St.  (comp.  p.  261), 
where  we  may  either  turn  to  the  left  and  proceed  past  the  City  Hall 
and  up  North  Broad  St.,  or  follow  South  Broad  St.  to  the  right. 

North  Broad  Street  (PL  F,  6-1),  beginning  on  the  N.  side  of  City 
Hall  Square,  a handsome  street,  113  ft.  wide,  contains  in  its  upper 
portion  many  of  the  finest  private  residences  in  Philadelphia.  To  the 
right,  at  the  corner  of  Filbert  St.,  is  the  Masonic  Temple  (see  p.262), 
which  is  adjoined  by  the  handsome  Arch  Street  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  are  the  tall  buildings  of 
the  United  Gas  Improvement  Co.  and  the  Fidelity  Mutual  Life  Asso- 
ciation. To  the  right  is  the  Odd  Fellows'  Temple,  a handsome  build- 
ing, erected  in  1895  at  a cost  of  $ 1,000,000,  and  at  the  next  corner 
is  Bostoclfs  Animal  Arena  (p.  260). 

To  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  Cherry  St.,  is  the  Pennsylvania 
Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts  (PI.  F,  6),  a building  in  the  Yenetian 
style  of  architecture  (admission  free;  catalogue  25c.;  Director, 
Mr.  Harrison  8.  Morris').  The  Academy  was  founded  in  1805,  and 


32.  Route.  267 


Academy  of  Arts.  PHILADELPHIA. 

besides  its  collections  supports  an  excellent  art-scbool,  the  lecture- 
hall  of  which  (groundfioor)  is  adorned  with  effective  decorations  hy 
the  pupils.  Its  collections  include  500  paintings,  numerous  sculp- 
tures, several  hundred  casts,  and  50,000  engravings.  The  early 
American  school  is  especially  well  represented.  Annual  exhibitions 
of  the  works  of  living  artists  are  held  here  in  winter.  The  letters 
prefixed  to  the  number  on  the  pictures  on  the  catalogue  show  the 
section  to  which  the  work  belongs  (A  = American,  B = British,  etc.). 

The  Stairway  and  the  Corridors  adjoining  the  head  of  it  contain  a 
number  of  large  historical  and  other  canvasses,  among  which  may  be 
mentioned : 2.  W.  AUston.^  Resuscitation  of  a dead  man  (2nd  Kings,  xiii,  21); 
501.  Bouguereau.,  Orestes  and  the  Furies;  546.  Wittkamp,  Deliverance  of 
Leyden  in  1574;  199-  Ben.  West.,  Death  on  the  Pale  Horse;  529.  J.  J.  Le 
Fehvre.^  Psyche;  525.  Portrait  of  Lord  Baltimore,  founder  of  the  State  of 
Maryland,  by  an  Unknown  Artist;  463.  C.  J.  Vernet.,  Royal  family  of  Naples 
at  Portici;  201.  Ben.  West.,  Rejection  of  Christ;  7.  H.  8.  Bisbing.,  In  the 
meadows;  524.  Peter  J.  T.  Janssen.^  Peter’s  Denial  of  Christ.  — We  begin 
our  round  of  the  rooms  with  those  on  the  S.  side  of  the  building. 

Gallery  B.  To  the  left:  314.  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence  (V),  Portrait  of  George 
Meade;  49.  J.  McLure  Hamilton.^  W.  E.  Gladstone  in  Downing  St.;  197.  E.  L, 
Weeks.,  The  .three  beggars  of  Cordova;  424.  Ribera  (Spagnoletto).,  The  Cid; 
60.  W.  Hunt,  Flight  of  Night;  452.  B.  van  der  Heist.,  Violinist;  77.  Ridgway 
Knight,  Hilling  the  ferry;  408.  Duplessis,  Benj.  Franklin;  50.  J.  M.  Hamil- 
ton, Richard  Vaux ; 94.  John  Neagle,  Pat  Lyon  at  the  forge;  C.  W.  Peale, 
100.  Robert  Morris  (‘the  financier  of  the  Revolution’),  107.  The  artist  him- 
self; Thos.  Sully,  164.  G.  F.  Cooke  as  Richard  III.,  163.  Mrs.  Kemble,  167. 
Eliza  Leslie,  164.  Charles  Kemble;  65.  Inman,  Lord  Macaulay ; twenty-two 
portraits  by  Gilbert  Stuart,  the  largest  collection  of  this  master’s  works 
(■^140.  Mrs.  Blodgett;  *157.  ‘Lansdowne’  Portrait  of  Washington ; 149.  Pre- 
sident Madison;  151.  President  Monroe;  158.  Washington). 

South  Transept.  Left:  549.  Ziem,  Grand  Canal,  Venice;  430.  Schalcken, 
Henrietta  van  Haavens;  75.  F.  L.  Kirkpatrick,  In  the  3Iuseum;  507.  Daubigny, 
Twilight  on  the  Seine;  503.  Corot,  River  scene. 

Galleries  C & D contain  a "Collection  of  paintings  and  sculptures  be- 
queathed by  Mr.  Henry  C.  Gibson  (1896).  — Gallery  C.  Left : 1008.  Jules 
Breton,  Potato  harvest;  1004.  F.  A.  Bonheur.,  Landscape  and  cattle;  1028. 
Diaz,  The  coming  storm;  1009.  Cabanel , Birth  of  Venus;  1017.  Courbet, 
Great  Oak  of  Ornans;  1094.  Revelation ; 1038.  G4r6me,  The  Guar- 

dian ; 1058.  Meissonier,  Cavalier  waiting  an  audience;  1021.  Daubigny,  View 
on  the  Seine;  1086.  Troyon,  Crossing  the  ford;  1016.  Corot,  Landscape; 
1032.  Dupri,  Sea-piece;  *1063.  Millet,  Return  of  the  Hock;  1020.  Daubigny, 
Landscape ; 1010.  Galame,  Lake  of  Lucerne  ; 1096.  Zamaco'is,  Contemplation  ; 
1034.  Forticny,  Council  House,  Granada;  1095.  Zamacois,  On  the  lookout. — 
Gallery  D.  Left:  1065.  A.  de  Neuville,  Surprise  in  the  environs  of  Metz;  1001. 
A.  Achenbach , Coast-scene ; 1064.  Munkacsy,  Bringing  in  the  night-rovers ; 
1039.  Van  Mar  eke.  The  herd;  1025.  Detaille,  Charge  of  cuirassiers  at  Reichs- 
hoffen,  1870;  1027.  Diaz,  Fontainebleau;  1088.  Martin  Rico,  Venice;  1093. 
Vibert,  Calling  the  roll  after  pillage;  1043.  H.  Hansen,  Interior,  Copen- 
hagen; 1046.  Henner,  Nymph;  1048.  Isabey,  Departure  of  the  Rouen  dili- 
gence; 1082.  Alfred  Stevens,  In  the  country;  1018.  Couture,  The  thoirny 
path;  1005.  Rosa  Bonheur,  Highland  sheep;  1015.  P.  J.  Clays,  Dead  calm. 
Coast  of  Holland;  1090.  Van  Maveke,  Seeking  shelter. 

Gallery  E.  Modern  European  Works.  329.  George  i/oWawc?,  Landscape ; 
307.  T.  Sidney  Cooper,  Cattle;  337.  Richard  Wilson,  Falls  of  Tivoli;  514. 
Fed.  Faruffini,  Caesar  Borgia  and  Macchiavelli ; 416.  Pieter  Molyn,  Nicolas 
Duval;  426.  Salvator  Rosa,  Old  man’s  head. 

Corridor,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  building.  336.  Henry  Thomson,  Baron 
Williams;  305.  Cole,  Stable  interior ; 613.  Frank  Duveneck,  Recumbent  tomb- 
figure  of  Mrs.  Duveneck  (plaster  cast;  original  in  the  Protestant  Cemetery, 
Florence). 


268  Route  32. 


PHILADELPHIA.  United  States  Mint. 


Gallery  F.  Temple  (American)  Collection.  1.  John  W.  Alexander.  Cafe; 
173.  Tanner^  Nicodemus;  *506.  Dagnan-Bouveret,  Breton  peasant;  512.  Per 
Ekstrdm^  Snowstorm;  *12.  Be  Forest  Brush,  Mother  and  child;  177.  Trego., 
Light  artillery;  121.  Wm.  L.  Picknell,  Marsh;  34.  Duveneck.,  Turkish  page; 
*15^.  Wm.  M.  Chase.,  Lady  with  white  shawl ; 59.  Winslow  Homer,  Fox-hunt; 
510.  Carolus-Duran,  Mme.  Modjeska;  78.  Koehler,  The  Holy-Day  occupation; 
53.  Alex.  Harrison,  The  wave;  189.  R.  W.  Vonnoh,  Companion  of  the  studio; 
28.  G.  H.  Davis,  Brook;  540.  A.  Struys,  Forgotten;  119.  Ghas.  S.  Pearce,  Fan- 
tasie;  183.  Tryon,  Evening;  91.  Anna  L.  Merritt,  Piping  shepherd;  190. 
Vonnoh,  November;  90.  Qari  Melchers,  Skaters;  174.  Tarhell,  The  golden 
screen;  4.  Cecilia  Beaux,  New  England  woman;  36.  Thos.  Eakins,  Cello- 
Xilayer;  185.  B.  XJhle,  Male  head. 

TheNoRTH  Transept  and  the  Central  Rotunda  contain  casts  and  marbles. 

Corridor,  at  the  E.  end  of  the  building.  433.  Snyders,  Dead  game 
and  dog;  631.  A.  St.  Gaudens,  Bust  of  Gen.  Sherman. 

Galleries  G,  H,  & J are  used  for  temporary  exhibitions. 

Print  Room  (groundfloor).  Field  Collection:  401.  Bonifazio  Veronese, 
Last  Supper;  410.  Attributed  to  Benozzo  Qozzoli,  Virgin  and  Child;  131. 
J.  S..  Sargent,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John  W.  Field;  Prints  bequeathed  by  John 
S.  Phillips. 

Sculptures.  Among  the  hitherto  unmentioned  sculptures , mainly  in 
the  corridors,  are:  625.  Hiram  Powers,  Proserpine;  906.  A.  Kiss,  Amazon 
attacked  by  panther;  701.  John  Lough,  Battle  of  Centaurs  and  Lapithee  (cast 
from  original  model);  913V2.  Auguste  Rodin,  Recumbent  figure. 

Farther  on  (No.  145),  to  the  right,  is  the  Armoury  of  the  State 
Fencihles  (PI.  F,  5,  6). 

Race  Street  (PI.  E-H,  5)  leads  to  the  left  to  Logan  Square  (PI.  E,  5; 
p.  261),  on  the  E.  side  of  which  stands  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral 
of  SS.  Peter  & Paul  (^Pl.  E,  F,  5),  a large  edifice,  with  a Corinthian  portico 
and  a dome  210  ft.  high.  The  interior  is  adorned  with  mural  paintings, 
and  over  the  high-altar  is  a Crucifixion  by  Brumidi.  — On  the  S.  side  of 
the  square,  at  the  corner  of  19th  St.,  is  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences 
(PI.  E,  5,6),  erected  in  1875  and  recently  much  enlarged.  The  society  was 
founded  in  1812.  Its  museum  (open  free  9-5,  Sun.  1-5;  entr.  in  19th  St.) 
contains  valuable  and  extensive  *Collections  of  Natural  History,  among 
which  may  be  specified  the  Morton  Collection  of  Crania  (1200),  the  huge 
Collection  of  Shells  (200,000  specimens),  the  Herbarium,  the  Peruvian  mum- 
mies, and  the  Ornithological  Cabinet,  which  furnished  Audubon  with  many 
of  his  types.  The  library  contains  50,000  volumes. 

On  the  W.  side  of  Broad  St.,  between  Race  and  Vine  Sts.,  are 
the  Hahnemann  College  and  Hospital  (PI.  F,  5),  probably  the  chief 
homeopathic  institution  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  Beyond  the  First 
Regiment  Armoury  (V\.F,b')  we  cross  above  the  subway  of  i\^Q Redding 
Railway.  To  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  Spring  Garden  St.,  is  the 
Spring  Garden  Institute  (PI.  F,  5),  for  instruction  in  drawing,  paint- 
ing, and  the  mechanic  arts  (750  students).  Adjacent  is  the  Appren^ 
tices  Library  (40,000  vols.).  Opposite  are  the  ^Baldwin  Locomotive 
Works,  a highly  interesting  industrial  establishment  employing 
11,000  men  and  turning  out  three  or  four  locomotives  daily  (adm. 
after  previous  application,  supported  by  an  introduction). 

Spring  Garden  Street,  a pleasant  residence-street,  leads  to  the  W. 
to  (I  31.)  the  S.  end  of  Fairmount  Park  (see  p.  273).  On  the  S.  side  of 
this  street,  between  16th  and  17th  Sts.,  stands  the  new  ^United  States  Mint 
(PI.  F,  5),  a large  granite  and  marble  building  in  a simple,  massive,  and 
imposing  classical  style,  erected  in  19(X)  at  a cost  of  $ 2,400,000  (open 
free  daily,  9-2,  Sat.  9-11;  visitors  are  shown  round  by  guides,  who  do  not 
expect  a gratuity).  The  Philadelphia  Mint,  established  in  1792,  is  the  parent 
mint  of  the  United  States.  The  various  processes  of  coining  are  interesting. 


Girard  College. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


32.  Route.  269 


and  the  machines  used  have  no  superiors  The  total  value  of  the  pieces 
coined  here  from  1793  to  1903  was  : gold  $ 1,023,177,924,  silver  $463,390,093, 
minor  coins  $ 41,535,405.  In  1903  the  silver  dollars  issued  here  numbereci 
4,652,755.  The  Mint  also  does  considerable  coinage  for  the  South  & Central 
American  Republics  ($2,430  000  pieces  in  1903)  and  for  the  Philippines 
(48,150,431  pieces  in  1903).  In  a room  upstairs  is  2k -Collection  of  American 
and  other  Coins.  The  most  interesting  are  the  Selections  in  the  central  case, 
including  the  ‘Widow's  Mite’  (No.  3116),  found  among  the  ruins  of  the 
Temple  at  Jerusalem.  — To  the  E.  of  Broad  St.,  at  the  N.W.  corner  of 
Spring  Garden  St.  and  13th  St.,  is  the  Philadelphia  Normal  School  for  Girls. 

The  Assembly  Hall  of  the  German  Society  of  Pennsylvania^  farther  to  the 
E , at  the  corner  of  Marshall  St.,  is  said  to  contain  the  best  German 
library  in  America  (50,000  vols.). 


A little  farther  on  are  the  Bot/s’  Central  High  School  (PI.  F,  5 ; 
left),  an  unusually  large  and  handsome  structure,  and  the  Synagogue 
E ode f Shalom  (r.),  in  a Moorish  style, 

i.«  from  the  City  Hall,  leads  to  tlie 

lett  to  (1/2  M.)  the  Eastern  Penitentiary  (PI.  E,  4),  a laree  and  well- 
manapd  prison  (1100-1200  inmates),  rendered  widely  known  by  a somewhat 
sensational  passage  in  Dickens's  ‘American  Notes’  (adm.  by  ticket  from 
one  of  the  Board  of  Inspectors).  The  penitentiary,  which  covers  11  acres 
ot  ground,  is  built  on  the  radiating  plan,  and  is  conducted  on  the  so- 
called  individuad  system,  in  which  an  attempt  is  made  by  discriminating 
ti’eatment  to  bring  about  a reform  of  the  criminals.  There  is  about 
1 warder  to_  dO  prisoners  (1  to  10  in  similar  English  prisons):  and  most 
European  visitors  will  be  struck  with  what  may  seem  the  unreasonable 
comtorts  of  the  cells  (many  containing  pictures,  flowers,  birds,  etc.),  the 
abundant  rations,  and  the  large  amount  of  liberty  granted  to  the  prisoners. 
Knitting,  carpentry,  and  the  making  of  cigars,  brushes,  etc.,  are  actively 
carried  on.  Dickens  s criminal  served  12  sentences  in  the  penitentiarv  and 
request,  brought  here  to  die.  — Girard  College 
(see  below)  lies  about  1/2  M.  to  the  R. 

Farther  up  Broad  St.  are  numerous  handsome  private  houses 
churches,  and  other  edifices.  At  the  N.W.  corner  of  Broad  St.  and 
Girard  Ave.  (see  below)  is  the  handsome  Widener  Mansion  (Pl.F  3 4) 
recently  presented  to  the  city  and  used  as  a branch  of  the  Free 
Library  (p.  266).  Beyond  Master  St.,  to  the  left  (No.  1424),  is  the 
elaborate  home  of  the  Mercantile  Club  (PI.  F,  3 ; p.  260),  and  beyond 
^ford  St.,  on  the  same  side,  is  the  Century  Wheelmen  Club 
i Grace  Baptist  Temple  (PI.  F,  2)  has  accommodation 

for  bOUO  worshippers.  Opposite  is  the  entrance  to  Moiiument  Ceme- 
farther  out  are  the  Base  Ball  Grounds 
^ Beyond  this  Broad  St.  runs  out  to  Germantown  fp.  275), 

6 M.  from  the  City  Hall.  ^ 

Near  Monument  Cemetery  (see  above),  at  the  corner  of  18th  St.  and 
Diamond  St  , IS  the  ’ South  Memorial  Church  of  the  Advocate  (PI  E 2)  a 

French  Gothic  style  of  which 
presents  the  best  illustration.  It  is  165  ft.  long,  105  ft 
tvansept),  and  106  ft.  high.  The  fleche  over  the  cro^ssing  is 
profusely  adorned  with  carving,  and  has  65 
of  ? windows  by  Clayton  & Bell.  The  vaulting  is,  unfortunately 

of  wood  only,  painted  to  resemble  stone.  ndieiy, 

n/  (P1.H-H,4)  runs  to  the  W.  from  N.  Broad  St.  to 

^ Oirard  College  (P1.E,3,4),  one  of  the  richest  and  most 

notable  philanthropic  institutions  in  the  United  States,  founded  ip 


270  Route  32. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Art  Club. 


1831  by  Stephen  Girard  (1750-1831),  a native  of  France,  for  the 
education  of  poor  white  male  orphans  (adm.  on  previous  application 
to  the  Director  or  Secretary  or  at  the  office  of  the  Girard  Estate,  12th 
St.,  to  the  N.  of  Chestnut  St.,  but  strangers  sometimes  admitted 
without  this  formality;  no  clergymen  admitted).  It  now  accommo- 
dates about  1600  boys,  and  the  value  of  Mr.  Girard’s  bequest  of 
$2,000,000  has  increased  to  about  $16,000,000  (3,200, OOOL). 

The  Building  is  a dignified  structure  in  the  Corinthian  style 

by  T.  U.  Walter,  resembling  the  Madeleine  at  Paris.  In  the  vestibule  are 
a statue  of  Stephen  Girard,  by  Oevelot.,  and  his  sarcophagus;  and  a room 
on  the  groundfloor  contains  several  relies  of  him.  The  other  buildings, 
about  a dozen  in  all,  include  school-rooms,  dormitories,  dining-halls  (one 
for  1200  boys),  a swimming-bath,  a technical  institute,  and  a chapel.  The 
services  in  the  last  are  conducted  by  laymen,  as  Mr.  Girard’s  will  forbids 
the  presence  of  a clergyman  within  the  college  enclosure.  The  Grounds^ 
which  are  41  acres  in  extent,  are  lighted  by  seven  electric  masts,  125  ft. 
high,  and  contain  a monument  to  former  pupils  who  fell  in  the  Civil  War. 

Opposite  Girard  College  are  the  Mary  J.  Drexel  Home  and  the  German 
Hospital  (PI.  E.  4).  To  the  N.  of  Girard  College  are  the  Women's  Medical 
College  and  Hospital.  — In  Stiles  St.,  to  the  E.,  between  17th  and  18th  Sts., 
are  the  large  Church  of  the  Gesii  and  various  Rom.  Catholic  institutions. 


South  Bhoad  Street  (PI.  F,  6-8)  leads  to  the  S.  from  City  Hall 
Square.  Its  intersection  witb  Chestnut  St.,  just  to  the  S.  of  the  City 
Hall,  is  environed  with  tall  office-buildings  (comp.  pp.  263,  266). 
— To  the  right  is  the  annex  of  the  Land  Title  Building  (p.  266, 
319  ft.  high)  extending  to  Sansom  St.  Opposite  (left),  adjoining 
the  Real  Estate  Trust  Co.  (p.  263),  is  the  North  American  Building 
(PI.  F,  6 ; 20  stories),  named  after  the  newspaper  which  occupies 
the  upper  five  floors  (fine  view  from  the  roof ; free  pass  obtained  on 
the  16th  floor).  Also  to  the  right,  at  the  opposite  corner  of  Sansom 
St.,  stands  the  substantial  building  of  the  * Union  League  Club 
(PI.  F,  6),  the  chief  Republican  club  of  Pennsylvania  (1950  mem- 
bers). On  the  same  side  is  the  large  Bellevue  - Stratford  Hotel 
(p.  259).  Farther  on,  to  the  right,  is  the  *Art  Club  (PI.  F,  6),  in 
the  Renaissance  style,  in  which  exhibitions  of  paintings,  concerts, 
and  public  lectures  are  held.  At  Locust  St.,  to  the  right,  is  the 
Academy  of  Music  (p.  260),  while  to  the  left  are  the  Hotel  Walton 
(p.  259)  and  the  Broad  Street  Theatre  (p.  260).  Lower  down,  to 
the  right,  are  the  Horticultural  Hall  (flower-shows)  and  the  Beth- 
Eden  Baptist  Church.  At  the  corner  of  Pine  St.  (r.)  is  the  * Penn- 
sylvania School  of  Industrial  Art  (PI.  F,  7),  incorporated  in  1876, 
with  a special  view  to  the  development  of  the  art  - industries  of 
Pennsylvania,  and  now  attended  by  300  students.  One  of  its  most 
characteristic  features  is  the  Department  of  Weaving  and  Textile 
Design.  The  Industrial  Museum  Hall  (p.  274)  is  connected  with 
this  excellent  institution.  — Below  Pine  St.,  Broad  St.  contains 
few  buildings  of  importance.  The  visitor,  however,  should  go  as 
far  as  the  *Ridgway  Library  (PI.  F,  8;  open  9-5),  which  stands  to 
the  left,  between  Christian  and  Carpenter  Sts.,  nearly  1 M.  from 


Christ  Church. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


32.  Route.  271 


the  City  Hall.  This  handsome  building  was  erected,  with  a legacy  of 
$ 1,500,000  left  by  Dr.  Rush  in  1869,  as  a branch  of  the  Phila- 
delphia Library  (p.  266),  and  contains  120,000  vols.,  some  interest- 
ing relics,  and  many  rare  books.  — Broad  St.  ends,  4 M.  from  the 
City  Hall,  at  League  Island  Park,  300  acres  in  extent.  League  Is- 
land itself,  in  the  Delaware,  contains  a U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  among 
the  chief  objects  of  interest  in  which  are  the  U.  S.  ram  ‘Katahdin’, 
some  monitors  used  in  the  Civil  War,  and  a fortyton  crane. 

Market  Street  (PI.  A-H,  6),  the  chief  wholesale  business-thor- 
oughfare of  the  city,  contains  little  of  interestto  the  visitor.  A little 
to  the  E.  of  City  Hall  Sq.  it  passes  the  Philadelphia  & Reading 
Railway  Station  (PL  F,  6),  a tall  Renaissance  building,  with  a 
train-shed  little  smaller  than  that  of  the  Penna.  R.  R.  (p.  262). 
The  department  store  of  Gimbel  Brothers  (PI.  G,  6),  on  the  S.  side 
of  the  street,  between  8th  and  9th  Sts.,  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the 
world.  The  Penn  National  Bank  (PI.  G,  6),  at  the  corner  of  S. 
7th  St.,  occupies  the  site  of  the  house  in  which  Jefferson  wrote 
the  Declaration  of  Independence.  The  street  ends  at  the  Delaware, 
in  a busy  quarter  of  wharves,  railway-stations,  etc. 

In  N.  Second  St.,  a block  above  Market  St.,  is  Christ  Church  (PI. 
H,  6;  Epis.),  erected  in  1727-37,  in  the  style  of  St.  Martin’s  in  the 
Fields,  London,  on  the  site  of  an  older  church  of  1695,  and  attended 
by  the  Royal  officers  and  early  officials  of  the  American  Republic. 

No.  239,  Arch  Street  (PI.  E-H,  6),  a little  to  the  N.,  between  2nd 
and  3rd  Sts.,  is  the  House  in  which  the  first  American  flag  (13  stars 
and  13  stripes)  was  made  by  Betsy  Ross  (Mrs.  John  Ross)  in  1777. 
It  was  purchased  by  a patriotic  society  in  1898  for  preservation 
a a national  monument  (open  free,  9-5).  — At  5th  St.  is  the  Christ 
C^  urch  Burial  Ground  (PI.  G,  6),  with  many  interesting  tombs.  A 
railed  opening  in  the  wall  (in  Arch  St.)  shows  the  flat  tombstone 
of  Benjamin  Franklin  (1746-90)  and  his  wife.  Opposite,  at  the 
S.W.  corner  of  5th  St.,  is  the  building  which  was  originally  the 
meeting-house  of  the  Free  Quakers,  referred  to  in  Dr.  Weir  Mit- 
chell’s ‘Hugh  Wynne’,  with  a tablet  in  the  gable  stating  that  it  was 
built  in  the  year  8 ‘of  the  Empire’.  The  * Church  of  the  Evangelists, 
Catharine  St.  No  77,  near  7th  St.  (PI.  G,  7),  is  built  in  the  Basilica 
style,  and  has  an  interior  elaborately  decorated  in  the  early  Italian 
style.  Over  the  door  (inside)  is  a painting  of  Charles  I.  of  England. 
The  neighbourhood  is  largely  occupied  by  Italians. 

One  of  tke  most  interesting  historical  buildings  in  Philadelphia  is  the 
Old  Swedes’  Church  or  Church  of  the  Gloria  Dei  (PI.  H,  8;  reached  by  2nd 
St.  tramway),  in  Swanson  St.,  near  the  Delaware  end  of  Christian  St,, 
erected  in  1700,  on  the  site  of  an  old  wooden  church  of  1646  (comp.  p.  261). 
The  descendants  and  successors  of  the  Swedish  founders  ultimately  joined 
the  American  Episcopal  Church  in  a body,  and  the  services  have  long  been 
carried  on  in  the  English  language  (interesting  tombstones).  Adjacent  is 
the  Cooper's^  Shop  where  the  ladies  of  Philadelphia  provided  meals  for  the 
troop‘d  passing  S.  during  the  war.  In  the  neighbourhood  is  th“  huge  Sprockets 
Sugar  Definery.  — At  Shackamaxon,  in  Peach  St.,  is  the  small  Penn  Treaty 


272  BouU  32, 


PHILADELPHIA. 


University. 


Park  (Pl.H,  4),  supposed  to  occupy  the  spot  where  Penn  made  his  treaty 
with  the  Indians  in  1682,  under  an  elm  that  has  long  since  vanished  (a 
compact,  in  the  words  of  Voltaire,  ‘never  sworn  to  and  never  broken’). 
The  island  in  the  river  here  is  known  as  Treaty  Island.  — A little  farther 
to  the  N.,  at  the  foot  of  Ball  St.,  are  "Cramp's  Ship  Building  Yards  (PI.  1,3), 
one  of  the  chief  American  yards  for  the  building  of  iron  and  steel  ships 
(U.  S.  war-vessels,  etc.  ^ pass  necessary  for  visitors). 

West  PhiladelpMa,  the  extension  of  the  city  beyond  the  Schuyl- 
kill, contains  many  of  the  chief  residence-streets  and  several  public 
buildings  and  charitable  institutions. 

The  ’^'University  of  Pennsylvania  (PI.  C,  D,  6,  7),  founded  in 
1740,  and  removed  to  West  Philadelphia  in  1872,  occupies  a group  of 
about  thirty  buildings  scattered  over  an  area  of  60  acres  bounded 
by  Woodland  Ave.,  Cleveland  Ave.,  Pine  St.,  and  32nd  St.  (reached 
by  Market  St.,  Walnut  St.,  or  South  St.  cars).  It  is  now  attended 
by  nearly  2700  students. 

The  College  Hall  (PI.  2;  C,  7),  or  main  building,  stands  facing  Wood- 
land Ave.,  between  34th  and  35th  Sts.  The  Library  (PI.  8^  C,  6,  7),  opened 
in  1890,  i8  excellently  arranged.  It  contains  220,0()0  vols.  and  numerous 
interesting  relics,  and  is  open  to  the  public.  — The  Medical  School  (PI.  9, 10; 
C,  7),  Dental  School,  and  Law  School  (PI.  7;  C,  6),  are  all  provided  with  spa, 
cious  and  well-equipped  buildings.  — Houston  Hall,  behind  College  Hall- 
is  the  social  centre  of  the  University  student  life.  — The  Wistar  Institute 
of  Anatomy  <t  Biology  (PI.  1 ; C,  7),  the  Morgan  Laboratory  of  Physics,  the  Har- 
rison Laboratory  of  OAemisfry  (PI.  6;  D,  7),  the  Gymnasium  U,  7),  and 

the  Dormitories  (PI.  3;  C,7)  may  also  be  mentioned.  — Franklin  Field,  ad- 
joining 33rd  St.,  is  the  athletic  ground  of  the  University  and  contains  a large 
stadium  (Pl.D,  7). 

The  -Free  Museum  of  Science  and  Art  (PI.  11 ; D,  7;  open  free,  10-5,  Sun. 
2-6)  occupies  a tasteful  building  in  Spruce  St.,  owing  part  of  its  inspiration 
to  the  Certosa  di  Pavia,  and  is  divided  into  five  sections.  Its  value  is  lar- 
gely due  to  the  fact  that  many  of  its  contents  were  found  by  expeditions 
organized  by  the  University  itself,  thus  placing  their  provenance  beyond 
doubt.  — The  American  Section  includes  objects  from  cliff-dwellings,  mound 
pottery,  and  objects  from  existing  Indian  tribes.  — A main  feature  of  the 
General  Ethnological  Section  is  the  collection  from  Borneo.  — The  "Baby- 
lonian Section,  probably  inferior  only  to  those  of  the  British  Museum  and 
the  Louvre,  chiefly  consists  of  objects  found  by  Professor  Hilprecht 
in  excavations  at  Nippur  in  Central  Babylonia.  Every  period  of  Babylonian 
history,  from  B.C.  4500  to  700  A.D.,  is  represented  by  inscriptions.  — The 
Egyptian  & Mediterranean  Section,  including  many  Etruscan  antiquities, 
will  also  well  repay  the  specialist.  — The  Glyptic  Section  consists  of  a 
valuable  collection  of  engraved  gems  presented  by  Professor  Max\vell 
Sommerville.  In  connection  with  it  is  a highly  interesting  reproduction 
of  a Buddhist  temple,  also  presented  by  Prof.  Sommerville. 

To  the  S.  of  the  University  are  the  large  Blockley  Almshouses 
(PI.  C,  7),  the  PhiladelpMa  Hospital,  and  the  new  buildings  of  the 
Philadelphia  Commercial  Museum  (PI.  C,  D,  7 j comp.  p.  265).  — A 
little  to  the  N.E.,  at  the  corner  of  Chestnut  St.  and  32nd  St.,  is  the 
*Drexel  Institute  (PI.  D,  6),  founded  by  A.  J.  Drexel  at  a cost  of 
$3,000,000  and  opened  in  1891.  Visitors  are  admitted  (9-6). 

The  chief  object  of  the  institution  is  ‘the  extension  and  improvement 
of  industrial  education  as  a means  of  opening  better  and  wider  avenues 
of  employment  to  young  men  and  women.’  It  also  provides  free  lectures, 
classical  concerts,  and  evening  classes  and  contains  a free  library  and  a 
museum.  The  latter  includes  collections  of  wood  and  metal  work,  cera- 


Fairmount  Park.  PHILADELPHIA. 


32.  Route.  273 


mics,  embroideries,  and  textiles.  , In  the  E.  wing  is  a picture-gallery 
opened  in  1903  and  containing  a collection  of  paintings  bequeathed  by 
Mr.  J.  D.  Lankenau,  including  examples  of  Achenbach,  Corot,  Diaz,  Dau- 
bigny, Ziem,  Calame,  Van  Marche  etc.  The  library  contains  a fine  ^^Collection 
of  Rare  Prints^  MSS.,  and  Autographs,  presented  by  Mr.  G.  W.  Childs  (incl. 
MSS.  of  Thackeray’s  lecture  on  George  III.,  and  Dickens’s  ‘Our  Mutual 
Friend’,  a vol.  containing  autograph-letters  of  every  President  of  the  United 
States,  MSS.  of  Hood  and  Leigh  Hunt,  etc.).  The  institute  is  attended  by 
2000  students. 

To  the  N.  of  Market  St.,  between  42nd  St.  and  49th  St.,  is  the 
enormous  Pennsylvania  Insane  Asylum  (Kirkbride's  Hospital; 
PI.  A,  B,  6),  situated  in  large  grounds  (no  adm.  on  Sat.  or  Sun.).  — 
The  U.  S.  Naval  Asylum  (PI.  D,  7)  accommodates  150  old  sailors. 
A little  to  the  S.  is  the  Schuylkill  Arsenal  (PI.  D,  8),  now  devoted 
to  the  manufacture  of  army  clothing. 

On  the  W.  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  a little  below  the  B.  & 0.  R.  R. 
bridge,  lies  *Bartram^s  Garden  or  Park  (beyond  PI.  B,  8),  which 
may  be  reached  by  the  Woodland  Ave.  trolley-line,  passing  within 
Vs  M.,  or  by  train  from  the  B.  & 0.  station  to  Eastwick's.  This 
park,  27  acres  in  extent,  was  part  of  the  farm  of  the  botanist  John 
Bartram  (1699-1771)  and  is  interesting  as  the  cradle  of  scientific 
botany  in  America,  though,  owing  to  a century’s  neglect,  its  col- 
lections are  now  rather  picturesque  than  important.  Bartram’s  house 
built  in  1731,  is  also  quaint  and  interesting.  * 

About  11/2  M.  to  the  S.  of  Bartram  Park,  between  the  Schuylkill  and 
the  Delaware,  lies  Girard  Park,  a small  public  park  containing  the  house 
of  Stephen  Girard  (p.  270).  It  may  be  reached  by  tramways  running  S, 
to  Passyunk  Ave.  and  thence  by  tramway  to  21st  St. 


Philadelphia  prides  herself  on  few  things  more  than  on  *Pair- 
mount  Park  (PI.  A-D,  1-5),  one  of  the  largest  city  parks  in  the  world, 
which  covers  an  area  of  3340  acres  (Prater  4270,  Richmond  2250)’. 
The  park  proper  extends  along  both  banks  of  the  Schuylkill  for 
about  4 M.,  and  the  narrow  strip  along  the  Wissahickon  (p.  274), 
11  M.  long,  is  also  included  in  the  park  limits.  Its  natural  beauties 
are  considerable,  but  comparatively  little  has  been  done  to  it  by  art. 
Several  statues  have  been  erected. 

c.  entrances  (2-3  M.  from  City  Hall)  are  at  the  end  of  Oreen 

St.  (FI,  V,  0),  which  is  to  be  connected  with  the  City  Hall  (p.  262)  bv  the 
wide  Park  Boulevard,  and  of  Girard  Ave.  (PI.  C,  D,  4).  The  ‘Park  Trolley’ 
(0  c.)  affords  a convenient  means  of  obtaining  a general  view  of  the  park. 
Entering  by  the  Green  St.  Gate,  we  have  to  our  left  the  original Vmr 
from  which  the  park  takes  its  name.  Close  by  (right)  is  the 
• Memorial  (40  ft.  high),  by  Rudolf  Siemering  of  Berlin,  erected 

‘ . consists  of  a platform  bearing  an  equestrian  statue  of  George 
M ashington,  with  allegorical  fountain-groups  at  the  corners,  representing 
the  rivers  Dela'ware,  Hudson,  Potomac,  and  Mississippi.  The  pedestal  is 
also  adorned  with  allegorical  groups  and  medallions.  On  the  top  of  the  hill 
( View)  IS  a huge  Reservoir,  to  which  the  river-water  is  pumped  up  by  the 
adj  oining  Water  Works  (VI.  D,  5).  A little  farther  on  we  cross  a plaza,  with 
a statue  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  beyond  which  is  Lemon  Hill  (P1.D,4),  crowned 
by  a restaurant  occupying  the  site  of  the  house  of  Robert  Morris.  At  the 

Schuylkill,  are  several  picturesque 
boathouses  belonging  to  different  clubs.  To  the  right  is  a reproduction  of 
Thom  s statues  of  Tam  0 Shanter  and  Souter  Johnny  at  Ayr  (see  Baedeker's 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


274  Route  32. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Memorial  Hall. 


Great  Britain).  On  reaching  the  handsome  Girard  Bridge  (PI.  C,  4),  one 

of  the  widest  in  the  world  (120  ft.),  near  the  end  of  which  &re  Statues  of 
Humboldt  and  Joan  of  Arc,  we  cross  it  to  the  larger  portion  of  the  park 
on  the  W.  hank  of  the  river.  To  the  left  we  see  the  Zoological  Garden 
Td  275)  Following  the  Lansdowne  Drive,  we  pass  (to  the  left)  the  Penn 
House  the  old  home  of  William  Penn,  transferred  hither  from  Letitia  St., 
near  Market  and  Second  Sts.  A little  farther  on  we  pass  Stone  Age 
Group  (by  J.  J.  Boyle),  bend  round  to  the  left,  and  pass  through  the 
Memorial  Entrance  (PI.  B,  4),  a structure  of  white  granite,  with  bronze 
statuary  designed  by  J.  H.  Windrim  and  erected  to  officers  of  the  Civil 
War  with  a bequest  of  $ 500,000  from  the  late  Richard  Smith.  Beyond 
this  we  reach  ‘^Memorial  Hall  (PI.  B,  3),  bii^ilt  as  part  of  the  Centennial 
Exhibition  of  1876,  at  a cost  of  $1,500,000  (3()0,000Z.)  and  now  confining  a 
permanent  collection  of  art  and  industry  {Pennsylvania  Museum  of  Indt^tmal 
Art-  open  from  9.30,  on  Won.  from  12,  on  Sun.  from  1,  to  1/2  hr.  before 
sunset:  about  600,000  visitors  annually).  In  front  of  the  building  are  two 
colossal  winged  steeds  in  bronze.  The  collections  include  paintings,  sculp- 
tures, casts,  stoneware,  majolica,  pottery,  metal  work,  ivory  carvings, 
electroplate  reproductions,  tapestry,  furniture,  mod^s, 
obiects^from  British  India,  embroideries,  etc.  The  Collection  of 

Paintings  (catalogue  25  c.),  for  which  a special  building  is  to  be  erected 
is  at  present  accommodated  in  Memorial  Hall.  It  includes  examp^s  of 
AchenMch,  Breton,  Bonington,  Eosa  Bonheur, 

von  Bremen,  Canaletto,  Chase,  Cabanel,  Clays,  Corot,  Pieter  Codde  Con- 
stable, Courbet,  Daubigny,  Dupre,  Diaz,  Fromentin,  Hondecoeter,  Guido 
Reni,  Inness,  Moroni,  Meissonier,  Gerome,  Lessing,  Leys,  Gabriel  Max, 
Munkacsy,  Murillo,  Palamedes,  Harrison  (‘Le  Grand  Miroir),  Rousseau, 
Rubens,  Ruvsdael,  Snyders,  Troyon,  Lhermitte,  Teniers,  Jan  Steen, 
Tintoretto,  Van  Marcke,  Van  der  Reer,  Rico,  Tiepolo,  Weenix,  Vollon, 

Zamacois,  Schreyer,  Whistler,  Van  Dyck,  Van  Goyen  Verboeckhoven,  Bas- 
tien- Lepage,  Delacroix,  Gainsborough,  Raeburn,  Ziem,  and  many  other 
modern  masters,  mainly  French  or  American.  The  sculptures  include  works 
b^  PowSs,  Barye,  and  Rinehart  (bust  of  Wm.  P.  Wilstach).  The  absence 
of  seats  makes  a visit  to  Memorial  Hall  somewhat  fatiguing.  — Among  the 
monuments  near  Memorial  Hall  Statues  of  Goethe 
Meade.  A little  to  the  N.  is  the  large  ^Horticultural  Hall  (PI.  A,  3),  another 
survival  of  the  Centennial,  finely  situated  above  the  Schuylkill  and  con- 
taining an  admirable  collection  of  tropical  flora.  In  the  vicinity  are  the 
picturesque  St.  George^s  House  (the  English  building)  and  a few  other  Cen- 
tennial buildings.  [Those  who  wish  may  now  return  to  the  city  by  tram- 
way from  Elm  Avenue,  a little  to  the  S.  of  Memorial  Hall;  ^ 

A little  to  the  W.  of  the  Horticultural  Hall  is  an  allegorical  Fountam, 
which  lies  at  the  base  of  George's  Hill  (Wiew).  About  1 M. 
hill  is  the  old  Belmont  Mansion  (now  a restaurant),  and  about  lartner 

on  we  reach  Ghamounix  and  the  R.  boundary  of  the  W.  Park.  The  bridge 
here  crosses  the  river  to  the  village  of  Schuylkill  Falls.  . , . 

By  turning  to  the  right  on  the  E.  bank,  we  may  follow  the  river-drive 
through  the  E.  Park  back  to  (81/2  M.)  the  Green  St.  entrance  (see  P-  2^- 
In  this  case  we  skirt  ===Laurel  Hill  Cemetery  (PI.  C,l;  entrances  in  Ridge 
Ave  ) which  here  occupies  the  high  bank  of  the  river,  containing  many 
handsome  monuments  and  affording  fine  views.  Near  the  mam  e^rance  is 
a group,  by  Thom,  of  Old  Mortality  and  Sir  Walter  Scott.  Among  the 
statues^  Le  oi  Harry  Wright  (d.  18^,  tlie  ‘Father  of  Base  Ball 

nark  to  the  S.  of  the  cemetery,  is  the  equestrian  statue  ot  The  Medicine 
Man  (Pi!  C 2),  by  C.  E.  Dallin,  erected  in  1904.  Not  far  off  is  - Statue 
of  General ' Grant  (PI.  B,  C,  3),  by  Dan.  C.  French  and  J*®'’ . 

By  turning  to  the  left  on  crossing  to  Schuylkill  Fam  (not  far  from 
which,  in  Clearfield  St.,  is  the  small  but  beautiful  Gothic  Church  of  Si. 
James  the  Less,  with  its  churchyard,  the  buriahplace  of  m^y  ^ /A® 
principal  Philadelphia  families),  we  may  follow  the  ^Wissahickon  Drive 
which^  ascends  the  romantic  valley  of  th&  Wissahickon  Creek,  an  Alpine 
gorge  in  miniature,  with  sides  200-300  ft.  high,  to  (6  Umiu 

affording  a scene  of  singular  loveliness  to  be  included  within  the  limits 


Zoological  Garden.  PHILADELPHIA. 


52.  Route.  275 


of  a city.  The  gorge  is  crossed  by  several  bridges,  including  the  lofty 
viaduct  of  the  Reading  Railway  (TO  ft.  liigh),  near  the  entrance.  Near  the 
suinmit  of  the  gorge  (to  the  right)  is  a Statue  of  William  Penn,  inscribed 
ioleration  . Along  the  stream  (on  both  banks)  are  several  inns,  frequented 
X?  summer  for  catfish  and  waffles’.  Four-horse  coaches  usually  ply  along 
the  Wissahickon  I>iive  in  summer.  Two  new  approaches  are  Houston's 
hamble,  which  is  to  be  continued  to  Germantown  by  the.  Lincoln  Drive,  and 
the  Oresheim  Valley  Road,  between  Chestnut  Hill  and  Germantown. 

The  *Zoological  Garden  (PI.  0, 4),  to  the  S.  of  West  Falrmount 
Park,  is  one  of  the  best  collections  of  the  kind  in  America  (adm.  25  c., 
children  10  c.).  It  occupies  a tract  of  ground  once  owned  by  John  Penii,’ 
grandson  of  William  Penn,  and  contains  his  house,  the  >SoiitMde(1786). 
The  garden  may  be  reached  by  train  from  Broad  St.  or  by  tramway 
(2oth  St.  or  Girard  Ave.).  Near  Wayne  Junction  (see  below)  is  Stenton 
Park  (14  acres),  with  the  old  Logan  Mansion  (18th  cent.). 

Of  the  Philadelphians  are  Gloucester  (ferry, 
see  p.  i60),  visited  for  its  ‘planked  shad’^  Washington  Park,  near  Gloucester 
with  a long  pier,  a theatre,  etc. 5 Lincoln  Park,  on  the  Delaware,  some 
miles  below  the  city;  and  Willow  Grove,  with  good  music  and  other 
attractions,  15  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  city  by  the  Reading  R.  R. 

industrial  and  commercial  city 
if  2^  ^5,935  inhab.,  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Delaware,  opposite 
P*  the  residence 

of  the  poet  mzt?nan  (1819-92).  - It  is  the  terminus  of  the  West  Jersey 

and  the  Philadelphia  & Atlantic  Railways  (comp.  pp.  259,  280). 

Fkom  Philadelphia  to  Germantown  and  Chestnut  Hill  11  M raH- 
the  Reading  Terminal  Station  in  30-40  minutes.  — Beyond 
(5  M.)  Wayne  Junction  (p.  259)  the  line  turns  to  the  N.W.  and  traverses 
^Germantown,  the  principal  residential  suburb  of  Philadelphia,  stopping 
at  several  stations,  of  which  (T  M.)  Chelten  Avenue  is,  perhaps,  the  nearest 
parts  of  the  district.  Germantown  is  very  prettily  laid  out, 
mu  gardens,  and  contains  some  interesting  old  houses. 

The  battle  of  German^^wn  in  which  Washington  was  defeated  by  Lord 
Howe,  was  fougbt  on  Oct.  4th,  17T7.  The  old  Chew  House  (with  marks  of 
cannon-balls),  the  Johnson  House,  the  quaint  old  Mermaid  Inn.  and  the 
Wakefield  Mills  are  interesting  relics.  The  Church  of  St.  Michael 
contains  a fine  stained-glass  window  (after  Guido  Reni).  Germantown  is 
Qif  tramway.  - 9 M.  ML  Pleasant; 

9/3  M.  ml  A^ry;  10  M.  Wyndmoor.  — ii  M.  Chestnut  Hill,  another  pleasant 
residence  suburb.  ’ o y. 

From  Philadelphia  to  West  Chester,  27  M.,  railway  from  Broad  St. 
Station  in  1-1 1/2  hr.  This  line  crosses  the  Schuylkill,  runs  to  the  S.  along 
, beyond  Woodland  Cemetery,  and  runs 

towards  the  S.W.  through  a pleasant  district.  — 11  M.  Swarihmore,  the 
of  Swarthmove  College  (right),  an  important  Hicksite  Quaker  establish- 
ment, attended  by  200  male  and  female  students.  West  House,  now  occupied 
® professors,  was  the  birthplace  of  Benjamin  West  (1738-1820). 
- Media  0^0  ft.)  a pleasant  little  town  (S075  inhab.)  in  a pretty 

w-iT*  1 much  atfected  by  Philadelphians  as  a residence.  — 16  M. 

the  site  of  the  Williamson  Free  School  of  Mechanical  Tr-ades,  found- 

^Cl  in  Icao  nV  TVit  T of  ^ J*  d»0  r\r\r\  rhr\e  r\r\r\  x 


^.1  ir.  -iq'qq  p^ieeibcnooi  oj  Mec/iamcal  Trades,  loiind 

at  an  expense  of  $2,125,000  (425,000L) 
res  (permission  to  visit  obtained  at  119  S 


Tx  X j — • cti  an  expense 

It  standsin  pretty  grounds  of  200  acres  (permission  tu  visit  uutamtju  at  xiu  o. 
Pliiladelphia).  — 27  M.  West  Chester,  a town  with  9524  inhabitants. 

"’Aoai“  “f  Philadelphia  are  Bryn 

^^oin  Philadelphia  to  Reading,  see  R.  35;  to  Baltimore,  see  R.  40: 
to  EHe  Tee^P  ^36  Buffalo,  see  R.  34;  to  Pittsburg,  see  R.  37; 


18 


276 


33.  Summer  and  Winter  Eesorte  of  New  Jersey. 

a.  From  New  York  to  Long  Branch  and  Point  Pleasant  by  Rail. 

60  M New  York  and  Long  Branch  Railroad  in  2-3  hrs.  (fare  to  Long 
Branch  $1,  to  Point  Pleasant  $1.31;  return-fares  $1.50  and  $2.05).  Tickets 
bv  this  route  are  also  available  by  tbe  Sandy  Hook  route  (p.  277).  — 
Passengers  start  in  Tersey  City,  either  from  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  Station 
(p  8*  ferries  from  23rd,  Desbrosses,  and  Cortlandt  Sts.)  or  from  the  Central 
R.  r]  of  New  Jersey  Station  (p.  8;  ferries  from  Liberty  and  Rector  Sts.). 

The  Central  R.B.  of  New  Jersey  branch  crosses  Newark  Bay  to 
(10  M.)  Elizabethport  (p.  258)  and  then  runs  to  the  S.  to  (22  M.) 
Perth  Amboy  (17,700  inhah.),  where  it  is  joined  by  the  Penna.  R.  R. 
train,  coming  via  Rahway.  We  then  cross  the  Raritan  River  to  (24  M.) 
South  Amboy.  29  M.  Matawan,  for  lines  to  Freehold  (p.  279)  and 
to  Keyport  and!  Atlantic  Highlands.  — 39  M.  Red  Bank  (^Qlobe,  $ 2), 
on  the  estuary  of  the  Navesink  (view  to  the  right),  is  a yachting  and 
ice-yachting  resort  and  the  junction  of  the  New  Jersey  Southern 
R.  R.  (for  Atlantic  Highlands,  etc.).  Farther  on  we  cross  the  Shrews- 
bury River.  — 44  M.  Branchport. 

45  M.  Long  Branch,  see  p.  277.  The  two  'following  stations, 
Hollywood  ^ V^est  End  (46  M.)  and  Elberon  (47  M.)  are  practically 
parts  of  Long  Branch  and  are  described  with  it  at  p.  278. 

The  line  now  skirts  the  shore,  affording  good  views  of  the  ocean 
to  the  left.  — 49  M.  Deal  Beach  (Hathaway  Iim,  $3-5,  well  spoken 
of).  51  M.  Asbury  Park  ^ Ocean  Grove. 

Asbury  Park  {Coleman  Ho. , Brunswick,  from  $ 4 ; West  End, 
Columbia,  Ocean  Ho.,  $3-4j  Plaza,  $21/2“^,  and  many  others; 
hoarding-houses),  a prosperous  town  with  at  least  50,000  annual 
visitors,  is  largely  frequented  by  those  who  object  to  the  religious 
management  of  Ocean  Grove  (see  below),  but  appreciate  the  ‘no 
licence’  policy  of  its  sister-town.  It  has  a good  beach,  skirted  by 
a plank-walk  1 M.  in  length,  and  is  divided  from  N.  Asbury  on  the 
N.  by  Sunset  Lake  and  from  Ocean  Grove  by  the  narrow  Wesley  Lake. 

Ocean  Grove  {Sheldon,  $3-4;  Arlington,  $2^2“^!  La  Pierre, 
$3;  Atlantic,  $2-3;  many  other  hotels  and  boarding-houses),  a sea- 
side-resort established  in  1870  by  an  Association  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church  and  now  frequented  yearly  by  20-25,000  people. 

This  extraordinary  settlement,  possible  only  in  America,  in  which 
many  thousands  of  persons,  young  and  old,  voluntarily  elect  to  spend 
their  summer  vacations  under  a religious  autocracy,  which  is  severe  both 
in  its  positive  and  negative  regulations,  is  curious  enough  to  repay  a 
short  visit.  It  is  bounded  by  the  sea  on  the  E.,  by  lakes  on  the  N.  and 
S and  by  a high  fence  on  the  W. ; and  its  gates  are  closed  at  lU  p.  m. 
daily  and  all  day  on  Sunday.  The  drinking  of  alcoholic  beverages  and  the 
sale  of  tobacco  are  strictly  prohibited,  and  no  theatrical  performances  of 
any  kind  are  allowed.  No  bathing,  riding,  or  driving  is  permitted  on 
Sunday.  Innumerable  religious  meetings  of  all  kinds  are  held  daily,  the 
chief  place  of  assemblage  being  a huge  Auditorium,  which  can  hold  iU,UUy 
people.  The  annual  Gamp  Meeting  is  the  great  event  of  the  season.  Near 
the  Auditorium  is  a large  Model  of  Jerusalem.  One^  section  of  the  place 
consists  solely  of  tents.  The  excellent  bathing  beach  is  skirted  by  a plank- 
walk,  3/4  M.  long. 


SEA  BRIGHT. 


33.  Route.  277 


We  now  pass  the  small  seaside-resorts  of  Avon^  Delmar^  Como, 
and  Spring  Lake.  57  M.  Sea  Qirt  (see  below)  is  the  site  of  the  an- 
nual summer-camp  of  the  New  Jersey  National  Guard. 

60  m.  Point  Pleasant  {Carrollton,  Leighton,  $3;  Resort  Ho., 
$ 272-3 ; Stratford,  $ 272)?  a frequented  watering-place,  forming 
the  terminus  of  the  New  York  # Long  Branch  Railroad. 

Beyond  this  point  we  may  go  by  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  to  Bay 
Head,  Seaside  Park,  and  other  points  on  Barnegat  Bay  (p.  278). 

b.  From  New  York  to  Long  Branch  vi^  Atlantic  Highlands 
and  Sandy  Hook. 

32  M.  Steamer  from  Rector  St.  (PI.  A,  2,  3)  to  (21  M.)  Atlantic  High- 
lands  in  11/4 hr.;  Railway  thence  to  (11  M.)  Long  Branch  in  1/2 hr.  (through- 
fare  $ 1).  — This  is  the  pleasantest  route  to  Long  Branch  in  fine  weather. 

The  steamer  affords  an  excellent  view  of  New  York  Harbour 
(comp.  p.  28)  and  lands  at  (21  M.)  Atlantic  Highlands  {Lockwood 
Ho.,  $272),  a modern  watering-place  with  1383  inhah.,  at  the  base 
of  the  Navesink  Highlands  (200-300  ft.),  often  the  first  land  seen  on 
approaching  New  York  by  ocean  steamer.  — 24M.  Highland  Beach 
(Swift  Ho.,  $3-4),  a small  bathing-place,  on  the  narrow  strip  of 
sand  connecting  Hook  (p.  2)  with  the  mainland.  Adjacent 

is  the  Navesink  Lighthouse  (250  ft.),  with  two  castellated  towers, 
the  light  of  which  is  visible  for  40  M.  Farther  on  life-saving  stations 
occur  at  frequent  intervals,  as  vessels  mistaking  the  entrance  to 
New  York  harbour  in  foggy  weather  are  often  wrecked  on  this  coast. 
251/2  M.  Normandie-hy-the-Sea  (*Hotel,  $4-5). 

261/2  M.  Sea  Bright  {Octagon,  Rutherford  Arms,  $4;  Sea  Bright 
Ho.,  $31/2-4:;  Peninsula  Ho.,  $31/2)?  one  of  the  liveliest  resorts  on 
the  coast,  with  golf,  polo,  cricket,  and  lawn-tennis  clubs.  The  nu- 
merous ice-houses  show  that  fishing  is  extensively  carried  on  here. 
— 28  M.  Galilee,  a quaint  fishing- village.  — 29  M.  Monmouth  Beach, 
a group  of  private  cottages,  with  a club-house  and  a casino ; 30  M. 
North  Long  Branch;  31  M.  East  Long  Branch,  the  station  for  Pleasure 
Bay  (Avenel,  $ 3). 

32  M.  Long  Branch,  see  below. 

c.  From  Philadelphia  to  Long  Branch. 

94  M.  Pennsylvania  Railroad  in  2V3-43/4  hrs.  (fare  $2.25). 

From  Philadelphia  to  (49  M.)  Monmouth  Junction,  see  R.  31. 
The  Long  Branch  line  here  diverges  to  the  right.  66  M.  Freehold, 
with  a monument  commemorating  the  battle  of  Monmouth  (1778); 
74  M.  Farmingdale  (p.  279);  82  M.  Sea  Girt  (see  above);  88  M. 
Asbury  Park  (p.  276)  ; 94  M.  Long  Branch  (see  below). 

Local  trains  also  run  from  the  West  Jersey  R.  R.  Station  in  Camden 
(p.  275)  to  (82  m.)  Long  Branch,  via  Whitings  (p.  279)  and  Tom's  River  (p.  279). 

Long  Branch.  — There  are  railway-stations  at  Long  Branch  proper, 
for  the  old  village,  the  pier,  and  the  E.  end  (omn.  to  the  best  hotels  50  c.)  ; 
at  West  End  & Hollywood,  near  the  best  hotels;  and  at  Elheron,  the  fashion- 
able cottage  part  of  Long  Branch.  The  trains  stop  at  all  these  stations. 


278  Route  33. 


LONG  BRANCH. 


New  Jersey 


Hotels.  *Hollywood,  finely  situated 'among  trees,  near  the  Holly  wood 
station  and  1/2  from  the  sea,  one  of  the  most  luxurious  and  expensive 
hotels  in  America,  with  excellent  cuisine,  R.  from  $5  a day,  food  a la 
carte^  open  all  the  year.  — West  End,  a huge  caravanserai  on  the  sea, 
Howland,  Scarboro,  $4;  these  nearest  West  End  Station.  — Elberon, 
at  Elberon.  — Ocean  Hotel;  Brighton,  from  $ 31/2*,  Atlantic;  Pannacci, 

$ 3;  these  near  the  pier  and  E.  end.  — Numerous  Boarding  Houses.^  $ 10-15 
per  week.  — Cottages  {i.e.  villas)  $400-4000  for  the  season.* 

Bathing.  Hours  for  bathing  announced  by  the  hoisting  of  a white 
flag  at  the  hotels  (not  hoisted  in  dangerous  weather). 

Long  Branch,  one  of  tlie  most  popular  watering-places  in  the 
United  States  (50,000  summer-guests)  and  also  one  of  the  most 
fashionable,  in  the  sense  in  wMcli  the  word  is  used  by  those 
who  ‘fondly  imagine  that  lavish  display  of  wealth  is  evidence  of  high 
social  position’  (Kobhe),  takes  its  name  from  the  ‘long  branch’  of 
the  Shrewsbury  River.  Permanent  population  (1900)  8872.  The 
original  village  lies  about  1 M.  inland,  but  the  modern  watering 
place  occupies  a bluff,  which  here  faces  the  sea,  at  a height  of 
20-35  ft.  above  the  beautiful  sandy  beach.  Along  the  edge  of  the 
bluff,  which  is  being  gradually  worn  away  by  the  action  of  the  sea 
in  spite  of  the  protection  of  strong  bulkheads,  runs  the  *Ocean 
Avenue,  a wide  road  5 M.  long,  which  presents  a scene  of  wonderful 
animation  on  summer  afternoons  and  evenings,  being  crowded  with 
vehicles  of  every  description.  The  Iron  Pier  at  the  E.  end  of  the 
Avenue  was  recently  washed  away,  but  has  been  replaced  by  a 
much  finer  one.  Most  of  the  hotels  (see  above)  face  the  Avenue, 
which  turns  slightly  inland  beyond  the  West  End  Hotel  and  is 
thenceforward  bordered  with  houses  on  both  sides.  The  finest  villas 
are  at  Elberon,  but  being  mostly  of  timber  hardly  vie  with  the 
Newport  cottages  (see  p.  89).  Among  the  most  interesting  are  that 
which  was  General  Grant’s  summer-home  for  16  years  and  the 
reddish  brown  house  (Franklyn  Cottage),  a little  to  the  W.  of  the 
Elberon  Hotel,  in  which  President  Garfield  died  in  1881.  The 
leading  show-place  of  Long  Branch  is  Hollywood,  the  estate  of  the 
late  Mr.  John  Hoey  (d.  1892),  a little  inland  from  the  West  End 
Hotel,  the  somewhat  meretricious  attractions  of  which,  however, 
scarcely  satisfy  a fastidious  taste.  The  flower-gardens  and  conser- 
vatories (open  to  visitors)  are  fine.  The  annual  show  of  the  Mon- 
mouth County  Horse  Show  Association  takes  place  in  these  grounds 
and  attracts  thousands  of  visitors.  A Grand  Carnival  and  Lawn 
Tennis  Tournament  are  held  at  Long  Branch  in  August. 

Many  pleasant  drives  may  be  made,  the  fRA^^ourite  being  the  Beach  Drive 
between  Highlands  (p.  277)  and  Bay  Head  (p.  277 ; 20  M.),  of  which  Ocean 
Avenue  is  a part.  — Eatontown  (p.  279),  4 M.  inland,  is  visited  for  its  pic- 
turesque old  mill.  Farthet  on  are  JShrewshurp  and  the  Tinion  Falls  (p.  279). 

d.  Barnegat  Bay. 

Barnegat  Bay,  27  M.  long  and  1-4  M.  wide,  extends  from  Point 
Pleasant  (p.277)  to  a point  a little  to  the  N.  of  Atlantic  City  (p.  280). 
It  is  more  like  a lake  than  a bay,  being  separated  from  the  ocean 
by  two  long  strips  of  sandy  beach,  and  entered  by  a narrow  inlet 


Resorts, 


LAKEWOOD. 


33,  Route.  279 


between  them.  The  bay  is  a great  resort  of  sportsmen,  affording 
excellent  fishing  and  wild-fowl  shooting.  Among  the  places  chiefly 
resorted  to  are  MantoloMng  (Albertson,  $2-3),  Seaside  Park  (Sea- 
side Park  Ho.,  $ 2^2  5 Manhasset,  $ 2-2^2),  Barnegat  City  (Oceanic 
Ho.,  $ 21/2),  and  Beach  Haven  (Engleside,  Baldwin,  $3-4),  on  the 
island-strips;  and  Forked  River  (Lafayette  Ho.,  $2),  Tom^s  River 
(Riverside,  Ocean,  $2),  Waretown  (Bayview,  $2^/2),  and  Barnegat 
(Clarence,  $2),  on  or  near  the  mainland  coast.  The  last  are  the 
special  haunts  of  sportsmen.  All  these  places  are  reached  by  the 
Penna.  or  Central  New  Jersey  R.  R. 

e.  From  New  York  to  Lakewood  and  Atlantic  City. 

137  M.  Central  Railroad  of  New  Jersey  to  (5972  M.)  Lakewood  in  172- 
23/4  krs.  (fare  $ 1.45) ; to  (137  M.)  Atlantic  City  in  3-674  lirs.  (fare  $ 3.25).  — 
The  train  starts  from  Jersey  City  (see  p.  8;  ferry  from  Liberty  St.). 

From  Jersey  City  to  (39  M.)  Red  Bank^  see  R.  33a.  Our  line  here 
diverges  to  the  right  from  the  line  to  Long  Branch  (p.  277).  — 41  M. 
Shrewsbury  ^ a small  town  dating  from  1665,  with  some  old  build- 
ings. About  21/2  fo  S.  are  Tinton  Falls.  — At  (43  M.) 
Eatontown  we  enter  the  Jersey  Pine  Plains.,  a stretch  of  forests, 
broken  only  by  the  settlements  along  the  railway.  The  district  has 
lately  been  coming  into  reputation  on  account  of  the  health-giving 
odour  of  the  pines.  • — At  (52  M.)  Farmingdale  we  cross  the  line 
from  Freehold  to  Sea  Girt  (p.  277). 

591/2  M.  Lakewood  (^‘Laurel  House,  ^Laurel  in  the  Pines,  belong- 
ing to  the  same  proprietors,  with  700  beds,  from  $4;  ^Lakewood, 
with  600  beds,  $ 5;  Palmer  House,  from  $ 3),  a pleasant  little  settle- 
ment in  the  heart  of  the  pine  woods,  has  recently  become  a frequent- 
ed winter-resort  (Oct.-May)  on  account  of  its  sheltered  situation 
and  comparatively  high  temperature  (10-12°  warmer  than  in  New 
York).  It  belongs  to  an  association,  which  has  laid  out  pleasant 
drives  and  walks  through  the  woods,  the  most  popular  being  that 
through  the  Cathedral  Pines.  The  village  is  adjoined  by  two  pretty 
little  lakes,  Carasaljo  and  Manetta.  The  Lakewood  Golf  Links,  which 
witness  many  important  matches,  are  laid  out  on  the  grounds  of 
Georgian  Court,  the  magnificent  residence  of  Mr.  George  Gould. 

67  M.  Lakehurst  (Pine  Tree  Inn,  $3),  the  junction  of  a line  to 
Tom's  River  (see  above)  and  Barnegat  (see  above).  At  (73  M.) 
Whitings  we  cross  the  line  from  Philadelphia  to  Long  Branch  (see 
p.  277).  — At  (1051/2  ^0  Winslow  Junction,  we  reach  the  Penn.  R.  R. 
(Atlan.  City  Division).  Hence  to  (137  M.)  Atlantic  City,  see  p.  280. 

The  line  we  bave  been  following  goes  on  to  (122  M.)  Vineland  (Baker 
Ho.,  $2),  a glass-making  and  fruit-growing  town,  with  (1800)  4370  inhab. ; 
134  M.  Bridgeton,  also  a glass-making  town  (13,913  inbab.  in  1800);  and 
(144  M.)  Bay  Side,  on  tbe  N.  bank  of  tbe  estuary  of  tbe  Delaware. 

f.  From  Philadelphia  to  Atlantic  City. 

1.  Reading  Railroad  C Atlantic  City  Lind)  ivcm  Kaighn’' s Point,  Camden 
(ferry  from  Pbiladelpbia,  see  p.260),  to  (56  M.)  Atlantic  City  in  1-173  br.  (fare 
$ 1).  — 2.  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  (three  routes):  a.  From  Broad  St.  Station 


280  Route  33. 


ATLANTIC  CITY. 


New  Jersey 


via  tlie  Delaware  River  Bridge  at  FranTcford  (p.  258;  65  M.)  in  IVs  lir. 
ffare  $1).  b.  From  Federal  St.  Station,  Camden  (ferry  from  Market  St., 
Philadelphia,  see  p.  259)  via  Haddonfield  (58  M.)  in  1V3-2  hrs.  (fare  $ 1). 
c.  From  Federal  St.  Station  (ferry  as  above)  via  Newfield  (64 M.)  in  2-23/4  hrs. 
(fare  $ 1).  The  last  two  belong  to  the  West  Jersey  & Seashore  Division  of 
the  Penna.  R.  R. 

Routes  1 and  2b  (see  above)  follow  practically  the  same  route 
and  touch  many  of  the  same  stations.  Both  pass  through  Winslow 
Junction  (p.  279),  241/2  M.  from  Camden  by  the  first  route  and 
27  M.  by  the  second.  39  M.  (41  M.)  Egg  Harbor,  with  manufactures 
of  native  wine.  — 56  M.  (58  M.)  Atlantic  City,  see  below. 

Route  2c  runs  farther  to  the  S.  9 M.  Woodbury;  30  M.  New- 
field;  59  M.  Pleasantville.  64  M.  Atlantic  City,  see  below. 

On  the  ‘Bridge’  route  the  trains  follow  the  main  New  York  line 
of  the  Penna.  R.  R.  to  (9  M.)  Frankford,  cross  the  Delaware  to 
Fisher's  Point,  and  join  R.  2b  at  Haddonfield  (6  M.  from  Camden). 

Atlantic  City.  — Hotels.  Marlborough,  St.  Charles,  Garden, 
Chalfonte,  Rudolf,  Traymore,  Brighton,  Dennis,  Haddon  Hall,  Isle- 
worth,  Windsor,  Wiltshire,  Loraine,  Gladstone,  Dunlop,  Savoy,  Royal 
Palace,  Raleigh,  Chelsea,  Strand,  Young’s,  Seaside,  Shelburne,  all 
from  $ 3 or  $ 4 up;  Grand  Atlantic,  $ 21/2-872,  R.  from  $ li/2i  Pennhurst, 
$21/2-8;  and  about  100  others,  from  $11/2  np-  Galen  Hall,  hotel  and 
sanitarium,  $ 21/2-4.  — Boarding  Houses,  $ 10-25  a week.  Cottages  from 
$200  for  the  season. 

Carriages  from  the  railway-stations  to  the  hotels,  1-2  pers.  oUc.,  each 
addit.  pers.  25  c.;  per  hr.  $ 11/2-  — One-horse  Coaches  ply  to  any  point  in 
the  town  for  10  c.  each.  — Tramway  along  Atlantic  Ave. 

Atlantic  City,  one  of  the  foremost  seaside-resorts  of  America,  lies 
on  Absecon  Island,  a small  sand-strip,  separated  from  the  New  Jer- 
sey Coast  by  5 M.  of  sea  and  salt-meadows.  It  contains  a permanent 
population  of  (1900)  27,838,  which  is  increased  fivefold  to  tenfold 
in  summer,  when  it  is  more  or  less  over-run  by  excursionists  from 
Philadelphia.  It  is  also  frequented  in  spring  and  winter,  when  its 
clientMe  is  more  select.  The  beach  is  one  of  the  finest  in  America, 
and  from  50,000  to  100,000  people  have  bathed  here  in  one  day 
(bath,  with  dress,  25  c.).  It  is  bordered  by  a *Board  Walk,  40  ft. 
wide  and  4 M.  long,  flanked  on  the  landward  side  by  shops  and 
places  of  amusement  of  all  kinds.  This,  the  Piers  (600-1000  ft. 
long;  adm.  10c.),  and  the  Brighton  Casino  are  the  favourite  haunts 
of  visitors. 

Among  the  favourite  Excursions  are  the  Beach  Drive,  10  M. ; to  South 
Atlantic  City,  5 M.;  to  (7  M.)  Longport  (Aberdeen,  Devonshire,  from  $ 3), 
near  the  S.  end  of  the  island,  by  road  or  electric  railway;  from  Longport 
across  Great  Egg  Harbor  by  steamer  to  Somers  Point  or  Ocean  City  (p.  281); 
to  Brigantine  Beach  (Holland  Ho.,  $ 4)  and  PeteFs  Beach  (hotel),  by  steam- 
ferry  and  trolley;  and  to  Barnegat  Bay  (p.  278).  — Absecon  Lighthouse 
(160  ft.  high)  is  open  to  Visitors,  9-12.  — Boating  and  Sailing  are  carried 
on  mainly  in  the  Inlet,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  island  (sail-boat  $ 5T0  per 
day;  sailing  excursions,  25  c.  each).  — Fishing  and  Wild  Fowl  Shooting  are 
also  popular.  — The  Country  Club,  near  Pleasantville  (see  above),  includes 
excellent  golf-links,  tennis  courts,  and  a polo  field  among  its  attractions. 
It  may  be  reached  by  electric  car  or  by  the  famous  bicycle  track  that 
runs  all  the  way  from  Atlantic  City  to  Philadelphia. 


Seaside  Uesorts. 


CAPE  MAY. 


33.  Route.  281 


g.  From  Philadelphia  to  Cape  May. 

1.  West  Jersey  & Seashore  Railroad  (Penna.  System)  from  Camden 
(ferry  from  Philadelphia,  see  p.  260)  to  (81  M.)  Gape  May  City  in  IV2-2V2  hrs. 
+ 2.  Reading  Railroad  from  Kaighn^s  Point  (ferry,  p.  261) 

to  (781/2  Gape  May  m IV2-2V2  hrs.  (fare  as  above).  — Steamers  also  ply 
in  summer  down  Delaware  Bay  to  Cape  May  (6  hrs.  ^ return-fare  $ 1),  ^ 

The  West  Jersey  R.  R.  route  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  At- 
^^0  Newfield  (p.  280).  34  M.  Vineland,  see 
p.  279.  — From  (61  M.)  Sea  Isle  Junction  a branch-line  runs  to 
(OM.)  Sea  Isle  City  and  (16  M.)  Ocean  City  (see  below).  81  M. 
Cape  May  (see  below). 

The  Reading  route  runs  via  (241/2  M.)  Winslow  Junction  (p.  248) 
and  then  follows  the  Atlantic  City  R.  R.  52  M.  Tuckahoe  is  the 
junction  of  lines  to  (12  M.)  Sea  Isle  City  (Continental,  $ 3:  Tivoli 
$2)  and  (13  M.)  Ocean  City  (yEtna,  from  $21/2;  Brighton,  Strand,’ 
Traymore,  $2-272),  two  popular  sea-bathing  resorts.  — 67  M.  Cape 
May  Court  House.  — ^81/2  M.  Cape  May  (see  below). 

Cape  May.  Hotels.  Lafayette,  Stockton  House  (1000  beds) 
Windsor,  Congress  Hall  (750  beds),  Baltimore  Inn,  Elberon,  all  these 
^ ® ^1/  Aldine,  Columbia,  Chalponte,  Arlington,  from  $2 

or  8 -<51/25  and  many  others.  — Boarding  Houses,  $5-20  a week. 


Cape  May  City,  at  the  extreme  S.  point  of  Cape  May,  the  E.arm 
of  Delaware  Bay,  a village  with  (1900)  2257  inhab.,  a popular  sea- 
bathing resort  of  the  Philadelphians  and  also  frequented  to  some 
extent  by  Southerners  and  Westerners,  is  a somewhat  more  fashion- 
able edition  of  Atlantic  City  (p.  280).  Its  beach,  5 M.  long,  is  hard 
and  smooth.  The  Esplanade,  skirting  the  sea-front,  is  most  thronged 
between  11  and  1 and  between  5 and  8.  Excursions  may  be  made  to 
Cape  May  Point  (electric  cars),  Cold  Spring,  SewelVs  Point  (electric 
cars),  along  the  beach,  etc.  The  cape  is  named  after  a Dutch  navi- 
gator, Carolis  Jacobsen  Mey,  who  visited  Delaware  Bay  in  1623. 


34.  From  Philadelphia  to  Buffalo, 

a.  Vi^  Bethlehem  and  Mauch  Chunk. 

416  M.  Philadelphia  and  Reading  R.  R.  to  (57  M.)  Bethlehem,  and 
to  (359  M.)  Buffalo.  Through -trains  in 
111/3  hrs.  (fare  $9.2o;  sleeper  or  parlor-car  $2). 

Philadelphia,  see  p.  259.  The  train  traverses  the  N.  part  of  the 
city  and  passes  several  suburban  stations.  5 M.  Wayne  Junction 
(p.  259);  972  M.  Elkins  Park,  with  the  Ogontz  Girls’  School;  11  M 
Jenkintown  (Beechwood  Inn,  $ 3-5).  Beyond  (33  M.)  Sellersville  we 
penetrate  the  Landis  Hills  by  a tunnel,  72  M.  long. 

57  M.  Bethlehem  (Hot.  Wyandotte,  at  S.  Bethlehem,  $272-3- 
Eagle,  %2^l2',Sun,  a modernized  relic  of  the  18th  century,  $2),  athriv- 
ing  town  of  20,5o4  inhab.  (inch  South  Bethlehem^,  lies  on  the  Lehigh 
a small  stream  which  joins  the  Delaware,  12  M.  lower  down.  It  is 
noted  as  the  chief  American  centre  of  the  Moravian  Brothers,  who 


MAUOH  CHUNK.  From  Philadelphia 


282  Route  3d. 

settled  here  under  Count  Zinzendorf  in  1740-41.  Many  of  the  old 
Moravian  schools  and  other  buildings  are  still  extant,  and  the  town 
is  an  educational  centre  of  some  importance  through  these  and  more 
modern  foundations  (see  ‘History  of  Bethlehem’,  by  Bishop  J.  M. 
Levering;  1904).  Lehigh  University,  above  the  town,  is  attended  by 
600  students  and  ranks  very  high  for  its  work  in  engineering,  Physics, 
chemistry,  biology,  and  metallurgy.  Its  library  contains  ld0,000 
volumes.  The  chief  industries  are  silk-weaving  and  the  making  of 
brass,  zinc,  steel,  and  iron.  The  Bethlehem  Steel  Co.  employs  3o00 
men  and  makes  a large  quantity  of  armour-plate,  shafts  for  marine 
engines,  and  heavy  ordnance.  Fountain  Hill,  on  the  S.,  and  Market 
St.,  on  the  N.,  are  the  pleasantest  residence-quarters.  Electric  tram- 
ways run  to  Philadelphia,  Easton  (12  M. ; p.  247),  etc. 

The  train  now  ascends  the  *Lehigh  Valley,  with  the  tortuous 
stream  to  the  right.  Numerous  iron- works  are  passed.  62  M.  Allen- 
town (AUen,$  21/2-3;  American  Ho.,  $2-21/2),  an  iron  and  silk 
making  town  with  35,416  inhabitants.  — 65  M.  Catasauqua;  bb  M. 
Hokendauqua;  67  M.  Coplay,  all  with  iron-works,  blast-furnaces, 
and  heaps  of  slag.  The  iron-works  now  disappear  for  a time  and  the 
scenery  improves.  78  M.  Slatington  is  the  outlet  for  the  most  ex- 
tensive slate-quarries  in  America.  To  the  right  is  the  bridge  of  the 
Lehigh  and  New  England  Railroad.  About  2 M.  farther  on  we  pene- 
trate the  Blue  Mts.  by  the  *Lehigh  Water  Gap  (Hotel  Craig),  in 
which  two  railways,  the  river,  and  a canal  are  compressed  between 
perpendicular  cliffs.  Beyond  this  point  the  valley  expands,  and  the 
iron-works  soon  re-appear.  87^2  M.  Lehighton  is  the  station  for 
Weissport  (to  the  right),  the  seat  of  a settlement  of  Moravian  Indians, 
brutally  massacred  by  the  whites  in  1757.  — At  (89  M.)  Packerton 
are  the  workshops  of  the  Lehigh  Yalley  R.B.  and  huge  scales  in  which 
cars  of  coal  are  weighed  while  in  motion.  A little  farther  on  the 
valley  contracts  and  our  line  crosses  to  the  N.  bank  of  the  river. 

91  M.  Mauch  Chunk  (530  ft.;  American,  $2-3),  a small  town 
with  4029inhab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  a rocky  shelf  on  the 
brink  of  the  river,  in  one  of  the  narrowest  parts  of  the  valley,  with 
mountains  towering  overhead,  is  visited  annually  by  thousands  o 
travellers.  It  has  but  two  streets,  one  running  along  the  river  and 
the  other  extending  at  right  angles  to  it  up  a cleft  in  the  mountains  ; 
while  the  slope  is  so  abrupt  that  the  man  who  enters  his  front-door 
on  the  street-level  may  step  into  his  back-yard  from  the  second 
story  window.  The  Bear  Mt.  (Indian,  Mauch  Chunk)  from  which  it 
takes  its  name  rises  to  a height  of  700  ft.  immediately  above  the 
town.  Mauch  Chunk  lies  in  the  midst  of  a rich  coal- district,  and  an 
immense  traffic  in  coals  is  carried  on  by  the  railways  and  canals. 

The  chief  lion  of  Mauch  Chunk  is  the  ^^Switchback  or  * 

originally  built  in  1827  to  bring  the  coals  out  from  *Vare  7^- 

but  now  used  by  pleasure-seekers  only  (^ou^  V"*?  ^ ' a 

omn.  to  foot  of  railway  25c.).  The  train  is  A^^A^ence 

stationary  engine  to  C/2  M.)  the  top  of  Mt.  Pisgdh  (1370  ft. , )) 


to  Buffalo, 


WILKES-EARRfi. 


3i,  Route.  283 


it  descends  by  gravity  to  (6V2  M.)  the  foot  of  Mt.  Jefferson  (1530  ft. ; *View). 
It  is  drawn  up  another  inclined  plane  (gradient  1:41/2)  on  this  hill,  and 
then  runs  on  a level  to  (1  M.)  Summit  Hill  (1485  ft.  ^ Eagle  Hotel,  $ 2),  a 
mining  village  with  2986  inhab.,  frequented  by  summer- visitors.  One  of 
the  points  of  interest  here  is  a Burning  Mine.,  which  has  been  smouldering 
for  70  years.  The  descent  to  Upper  Mauch  Chunk.,  near  our  starting-place, 
a distance  of  9 M.,  is  made  by  gravity  in  25  minutes.  — Good  views  are 
also  obtained  from  Prospect  Rock  and  Flagstaff  Peak  (1700  ft.). 

Beyond  Maucli  Chunk  the  railway  continues  to  follow  the  nar- 
row winding  gorge  of  the  river.  — 93  M.  Glen  Onoko  (Hotel  Wah- 
netah,  $2^2)5  ^ beautiful  little  glen,  traversed  by  a stream  form- 
ing a series  of  falls.  It  is  much  frequented  by  excursion-parties.  — 
At  (114  M.)  White  Haven  (1140  ft.)  we  leave  the  river  and  ascend 
the  mountains  to  the  left.  — 125  M.  Glen  Summit  (1730  ft. ; Hotel, 
$3-4,  meal-station),  on  the  watershed  between  the  Delaware  and 
the  Susquehanna,  commands  a distant  view  of  the  main  ridge  of  the 
Alleghenies  (W.).  We  now  descend  rapidly  into  the  * Wyoming 
Valley  (see  below),  a beautiful  *View  of  which,  with  Susquehanna 
River.,  is  suddenly  disclosed  to  the  right. 

145  M.  Wilkes-Barre  (550  ft.;  Hot.  Sterling,  $21/2-5;  Wyo- 
ming Ho.,  $2-4;  Exchange,  $2),  the  chief  town  in  the  Wyoming 
Valley,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Susquehanna,  contains  51,721  inhab., 
who  owe  their  prosperity  to  the  rich  coal-mines  of  the  district.  It 
is  connected  by  a bridge  with  Kingston  (3846  inhab.)  on  the  op- 
posite  bank. 

^The  -Valley  of  Wyoming  (a  corruption  of  the  Indian  Maughwauwama 
or  large  plains’) , the  name  given  to  this  expansion  of  the  Susquehanna 
Valley,  is  about  20  M.  long  and  3-4  M.  wide  and  is  inclosed  by  two  par- 
allel ranges  of  hills,  800-1000  ft.  high.  The  Susquehanna  (‘broad  and 
shallow  river’),  which  has  a total  length  of  400  M.  from  Otsego  Lake  (see 
p.  201)  to  Chesapeake  Bay,  enters  the  valley  through  the  Lackawannock  Gap 
and  leaves  it  through  the  narrow  Nanticoke  Gap.  Within  the  valley  its 
course  is  generally  placid,  but  it  forms  two  sets  of  rapids  (the  Wyoming 
and  Nanticoke  Falls)  and  receives  several  tributaries  from  the  mountains. 
Numerous  coal-pits,  culm-heaps,  and  smoking  chimneys  testify  to  the  pre- 
vailing industry  of  the  valley.  A good  -View  of  the  valley  is  obtained  from 
Prospect  Rock  (750  ft.),  2 M.  from  Wilkes-Barre.  CamphelVs  Ledge,  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  Lackawannock  Gap,  is  also  a good  point  of  view.  — 

Park  (stat.  on  the  Central  R.  R.  of  New  Jersey),  8 M.  to  the  E..  is  a 
favourite  resort  of  excursionists.  — A steamer  descends  the  Susquehanna 
from  Wilkes-Barre  to  (8  M.)  Nanticoke. 

The  name  of  the  valley  is  widely  known  from  the  harrowing  incidents 
narrated  by  Campbell  in  his  ‘Gertrude  of  Wyoming’.  In  June,  1778  a 
force  of  British  troops  and  Indians  entered  the  valley  and  defeated  the 
settlers  in  a battle  fought  on  July  3rd.  The  battle  was  followed  by  an 
atrocious  massacre,  in  which  the  British  officers  were  unable  to  set  any 
bounds  to  the  butchery  of  their  savage  allies,  who,  it  is  estimated,  slew 
oOO  men,  women,  and  children.  Fort  Forty,  the  scene  of  the  battle  4 M. 
above  Kingston  (see  above),  is  marked  by  an  Obelisk,  62^/2  ft.  high:  and 
about  o M.  farther  up  is  Q.ueen  Esther'^s  Rock,  where  the  half-breed  queen 
of  the  Senecas  tomahawked  14  defenceless  prisoners. 

About  18  M.  to  the  W.  of  Wilkes-Barre,  on  a branch  of  the  Lehigh 
Valley  R.  R. , is  the  picturesque  Harveffs  Lake  or  Lake  Shawanese  (The 
Uneonta,  $3-4^  Lake  Hotel,  $1-2),  now  a favourite  resort.  Farther  off, 
reached  by  the  same  branch-railway,  is  {^M.)Ganega  Lake  (2320  ft. ; North 
Mountain  Ho.,  $21/2). 


WILLIAMSPORT. 


284  Route  34. 


From  Wilkes-Barre  to  Nineveh,  93  M.,  Delaware  4:  Budson  R.  R.  in 
31/2  lirs.  (fare  $2.84).  This  line  traverses  a coal-mining  district.  — 9 M. 
Pittston  (see  helow);  11  M.  Avoca;  16  M.  Minooka;  19  M.  Scranton,  an  im- 
portant junction  (p.  244) ; 35  M.  Carbondale  (Harrison  Ho.,  New  American  Ho., 
$21/2)1  a busy  coal-mining  city  with  13,536  inhabitants.  — The  train  now 
ascends  to  (55  M.)  Ararat  Summit  (2500  ft.),  beyond  which  it  descends 
into  the  valley  of  the  Susquehanna.  71  M.  Jefferson  Junction;  16  M. 
boro;  81  M.  Windsor;  85  M.  East  Windsor;  89  M.  Centre  Village.  — 93  M. 
Nineveh,  see  p.  202. 

The  train  now  ascends  along  the  E.  bank  of  the  Susquehanna. 
The  Wyoming  Monument  (see  p.  283)  is  seen  across  the  river  to  the 
left.  — 153  M.  Pittston  (570  ft.;  see  above),  with  12,556  inhab., 
lies  near  the  point  where  the  Lackawanna  pours  into  the  Susque- 
hanna. Above  rises  CamphelVs  Ledge  (p.  283). 

Beyond  Pittston  the  scenery  is  less  interesting.  At  (238  M.) 
Athens  (770  ft.)  we  cross  the  Chemung  River.  — Beyond  (239  M.) 
Sayre  Junction  (for  lines  to  Auburn,  Owego,  Waverly,  etc.)  we  cross 
the  Erie  R.  R.  (R.  28  d).  At  (255  M.)  Van  Etten  the  line  forks,  the 
left  branch  running  to  Geneva  (see  below)  via  Watkins  (p.  237)  and 
Seneca  Lake  (p.  237),  while  that  traversed  by  most  through  - trains 
runs  to  the  N.  to  (275  M.)  Ithaca  (p.  236)  and  skirts  the  W.  side 
of  Cayuga  Lake  (p.  236).  299  M.  HayCs  Corners.  — 313  M.  Geneva, 
see  p.  237.  — 348  M.  Rochester  Junction,  for  (13  M.)  Rochester 
(p.  238).  --  379  M.  Batavia  (p.  239);  412  M.  East  Buffalo  (p.  239). 

416  M.  Buffalo,  see  p.  239. 


b.  Vi^  Williamsport  and  Emporium. 

417  M.  Pennsylvania  Railroad  in  13V2-14^/2  hrs.  (fares  as  above). ^ 

From  Philadelphia  to  (105  M.)  Harrisburg,  see  R.  37.  Our  line 
here  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  line  to  Pittsburg  and  runs  to 
the  N.  along  the  Susquehanna.  — 158  M.  Sunbury  (450  ft.;  9810 
inhab.),  on  the  left  bank  of  the  wide  Susquehanna,  is  an  important 
outlet  for  the  Shamokin  Coal  District.  — At  (160  M.)  Northumber- 
land, at  the  confluence  of  the  N.  and  S.  branches  of  the  Susque- 
hanna, Dr.  Joseph  Priestley , discoverer  of  oxygen  gas,  lived  from 
1794  till  his  death  in  1804.  He  is  buried  in  the  cemetery  here.  — 
Farther  on  our  line  runs  parallel  with  the  Reading  line. 

198  M.  Williamsport  (Updepm/f,  $3-4;  Park,  2V2-4:),  a city  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  S.  (or  W.)  branch  of  the  Susquehanna,  with 
28,757  inhab.,  chiefly  engaged  in  the  timber  trade.^  The  huge ‘Boom’ 
on  the  river  here  can  contain  300  million  feet  of  timber.  Williams- 
port is  a station  of  the  long  Seaboard  Oil  Pipe  Line  (comp.  p.  299). 

From  Williamsport  to  Satterfield  , 55  M. , Williamsport  & 

Branch  R.  R.  in  21/4  hrs.  This  line  crosses  the  Phil.  Reading  R.  A. 
at  (10  M.l  Halls  and  traverses  a picturesque  district  which  has  been  am- 
bitiously dubbed  the  ‘Adirondacks  of  Pennsylvania’.  — The  chief  resorts 
are  Highland  Lake  (2000  ft. ; Essick,  Highland  Ho.),  reached  by  coach  (IV^ ^r.) 
from  (19  M.)  Picture  Rocks  (670  ft.)  or  (21  M.)  CtaowriL*  Eagles  Mere  (2200  ft-  *, 
Hotel  Eagles'  Mere,  Lakeside,  Raymond,  Crestmont,  ^ \ 

gheny,  $2),  reached  by  a short  branch-line  (8  M Hrom  (32  M.)  Sonestown; 

Lake  Mokoma  (La  Porte  Hotel),  4 M.  from  (37  M.)  Nordmont. 

From  Williamsport  to  Harrisburg,  see  p.  288. 


READING. 


35.  Route.  285 


We  turn  to  tlie  left  (W.),  cross  the  Lycoming  Creek  and  the  Sus- 
quehanna, and  ascend  on  the  right  hank  of  the  latter.  223  M.  Lock 
Haven^  another  lumbering  town  (7210  inhab.),  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Susquehanna.  The  scenery  here  and  as  we  advance  far- 
ther up  the  river  is  picturesque.  We  cross  and  recross  the  stream. — 
250  M.  Renovo  (670  ft. ; Renovo  Hotel,  $2),  a summer-resort,  finely 
situated  in  the  Susquehanna  valley,  among  hills  800-1000  ft.  high. 

At  (263  M.)  Keating  (720  ft.)  the  train  leaves  the  Susquehanna, 
after  following  it  for  160  M.,  and  begins  to  ascend  the  Sinnemahoning. 
The  dreary  district  we  now  traverse  is  known  as  the  Great  Horseshoe 
of  the  Alleghenies.  — 278  M.  Driftwood.^  junction  of  a line  to  Pitts- 
burg (p.  295).  — 296  M.  Emporium  (1030  ft.;  CityHotef  St.  Charles^ 
$2),  a hill-surrounded  village  with  2463  inhab.,  is  the  junction  of 
the  Pennsylvania  R.R.  route  to  Erie  (R.  36).  Our  line  runs  to  the  N.  to 
(320  m.)  Port  Allegany.^  and  then  follows  the  Allegheny  River  to 
(347  M.)  Clean  (^Olean  Ho..,  from  $2),  on  the  Erie  R.  R.  (p.  344), 
one  of  the  largest  petroleum  storing  places  in  the  world.  Pop.  9462. 

— To  the  left,  near  (367  M.)  Franklinville,  is  Lime  Lake. 

417  M.  Buffalo,  see  p.  239. 

35.  From  Philadelphia  to  Reading  and  Williamsport. 

199  m.  Philadelphia  & Reading  Railroad  in  6V2-8V4  hrs.  (fare  $5.78). 

— The  Pennsylvania  Railroad  (Broad  St.  Station)  is  also  available,  the 
trains  following  nearly  the  same  route  (fare  as  above;  comp.  R.  37).  — Both 
lines  traverse  the  Schuylkill  Valley  and  connect  the  great  anthracite  coal- 
fields of  Pennsylvania  with  the  ocean. 

Philadelphia^  see  p.  259.  The  train  crosses  the  Schuylkill  (p.  260), 
touches  the  N.  end  of  Fairmount  Park  (p.  273) , and  ascends  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  parallel  with  the  Schuylkill  Valley  Division 
of  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  on  the  opposite  bank.  The  valley  is 
thickly  populated  and  presents  a scene  of  busy  industry , with  its 
numerous  factories  and  mills.  — 17Y2  M.  Bridgeport  lies  opposite 
Norristown  i^West  End,  $ 2Y2;  Montgomery,  $ 2),  a thriving  manufac- 
turing city  (22,265  inhab.).  — 24  M.  Valley  Forge  (Washington  Inn, 
$ 2),  the  headquarters  of  Washington  and  the  American  army  during 
the  trying  winter  of  1777-78.  The  farm-house  in  which  Washington 
had  his  quarters  is  still  preserved  (to  the  left  of  the  railway).  — 
Beyond  (28  M.)  Phoenixville , at  the  foot  of  Black  Rock,  with 
9196  inhab.  and  the  huge  Phoenix  Iron  and  Steel  Works,  we  thread 
a tunnel  nearly  Y2  ^1-  long.  Our  train  then  crosses  the  river,  chang- 
ing sides  with  the  Pennsylvania  line.  We  are  now  in  the  district  of 
the  so-called  ‘Pennsylvania  Dutch’,  a hard-working  race  of  Teutonic 
origin,  speaking  a curious  dialect  of  South  German,  with  an  infusion  of 
English,  hi  ear  (41  M.)  Pottstown,  another  iron-making  place  (13,696 
inhab.),  are  the  Ringing  Rocks,  emitting  a musical  sound  when  struck 
(electric  tramway).  We  cross  the  Manatawny  by  a long  bridge. 

58Y2  M.  Reading  (270  ft.;  Mansion  Ho.,  from  $3;  Central, 
$2-2Y2j  -P.  ^ R>  Railway  Restaurant),  a busy  manufacturing  city 


286  Route  35. 


POTTSVILLE. 


witli  78,961  inliab.,  lies  on  a comparatively  level  plateau  hemmed 
in  by  Fenri’s  Mt.  on  the  E.  and  Neversink  Mt.  on  the  S.  The  Court 
House  is  a handsome  building,  with  a portico  borne  by  six  columns 
of  the  old  red  sandstone  found  in  the  adjacent  mountains.  The  chief 
industry  is  iron-making,  and  the  shops  of  the  Reading  Railway  give 
employment  to  about  3000  men. 

Penn's  Mt.  (1040  ft.),  at  the  top  of  wbicb  is  tbe  Summit  Hotel  ($  2V2-3), 
is  ascended  by  a ‘switchback’  railway.  The  White  Spot.,  1000  ft.  above 
the  river,  a remnant  of  Potsdam  sandstone  lying  unconformably  on  Lau- 
rentian  rock,  is  a favourite  point  of  view.  — Another  mountain-railway 
(views)  climbs  to  the  top  of  Neversink  Mt.  (850  ft.),  with  its  large  hotel 
($  3V‘i).  — Heading  is  an  important  railway-centre,  lines  radiating  hence 
in  all  directions. 

On  the  ‘Columbia  Division’  of  the  Reading  R.  R.,  22  M.  from  Reading, 
lies  Ephrata  {Ephrata  Ho..,  $ iy2),  one  of  the  centres  of  the  sect  known 
as  Dunkards  or  Tunkers,  whose  characteristically  simple  costume  is  common 
in  this  whole  region.  The  cells  of  the  half-ruinous  ‘Brother’  and  ‘Sister 
Houses’  at  Ephrata  now  contain  about  a dozen  inmates  only. 

Beyond  Reading  our  line  continues  to  follow  the  Schuylkill  Tal- 
ley, and  the  long  ridge  of  the  Blue  Mts.  looms  up  ahead  of  us,  changing 
from  grey  to  blue  as  we  approach  it.  — At  (79  M.)  Port  Clinton 
(410  ft.)  , at  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Schuylkill,  we  pass  through  a 
gap  in  the  ridge,  similar  to,  but  less  picturesque  than  those  men- 
tioned at  pp.  282,  243.  Port  Clinton  stands  on  the  S.  edge  of  the 
great  anthracite  coal-region,  and  has  a busy  traffic  in  coal.  Our 
railway  forks  here,  the  left  branch  going  on  to  Pottsville,  the  right  to 
Williamsport  via  the  Catawissa  Talley  (see  below). 

From  Port  Clinton  to  Pottsville,  15  M.,  railway  in  Vz-Vi  hr.  — The 
line  follows  the  Schuylkill.  — 5 M.  Auburn;  11  M.  Schuylkill  Haven.  — 
15  M.  Pottsville  (615  ft.^  Allan,  $2-3),  a city  with  15,710  inhab.,  in  the 
gap  where  the  river  breaks  through  Sharp  Mt.  (1395  ft.),  lies  in  the  great 
S,  or  Schuylkill  Coal  Basin,  which  produces  10,000,000  tons  of  anthracite 
coal  annually,  or  one-fourth  of  the  total  production  of  Pennsylvania. 
The  surrounding  district  is  a network  of  railways. 

The  Williamsport  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Little  Schuyl- 
kill and  traverses  a busy  coal-mining  district.  — IO41/2  M.  Last 
Mahanoy  Junction.  Farther  on  we  traverse  the  picturesque  Catawissa 
Valley.  At  (146  M.)  Catawissa  (475  ft.)  we  cross  the  Susquehanna. 
169  M.  Milton  Junction;  189  M.  Jah^is,  the  junction  of  theWilliamsport 
& North  Branch  R.  R.  (p.  284). 

199  M.  Williamsport,  see  p.  284. 

36.  From  Philadelphia  to  Erie. 

415  M.  Pennsylvania  Railroad  in  12V4*16i/2  hrs.  (fare  $ 10.25). 

From  Philadelphia  to  (296  M.)  Emporium,  seeR.  34b.  — 316  M. 
St.  Mary's  (1670  ft.),  in  a lumbering  and  bituminous  coal  district 
has  a large  German  Benedictine  college  and  convent.  — 341  M. 
Wilcox  (1525  ft.),  with  a large  tannery.  : — 350  M.  Kane  (2020  ft.; 
Griffin  Hotel,  $2),  with  5296  inhab.,  frequented  for  deer-shooting 
and  fishing.  We  now  begin  to  descend  on  the  Lake  Erie  side  of  the 
ridge. — -379  M.  Warren  (1195  ft.),  at  the  confluence  of  ih.&  Alleghe^iy 


BKYN  MAWR. 


37.  Route.  287 


and  the  Conewango,  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  Dunkirk  (p.  330).  — 

408  M.  Corry  (1445  ft.),  an  industrial  town  (5369  inhah.). 

From  Corry  to  Pittsburg  and  to  Buffalo  ^ see  p.  299.  Corry  is  also 
the  junction  of  lines  to  Jamestown  (p.  345),  etc. 

419  M.  Union  City;  426  M.  Waterford  (1190  ft.),  on  the  Le 
Boeuf  Lake.  Beyond  (434  M.)  Jackson  (1225  ft.)  we  cross  the  water- 
shed between  the  Ohio  and  Lake  Erie,  here  only  8 M.  from  the  latter. 

445  M.  Ene,.see  p.  330. 

37.  From  Philadelphia  to  Harrisburg  and  Pittsburg. 

354  M.  Pennsylvania  Railroad  to  (105  M.)  Harrisburg  in  2V2'3V2  hrs. 

(fare  $3.15,  parlor-car  $1.50);  to  (354  M.)  Pittsburg  in  8V2-I2V2  hrs.  (fare 
$9,  parlor-car  $2,  sleeper  $2).  This  line,  forming  part  of  the  fine 
through-route  from  New  York  to  Chicago  (see  R.  47a),  traverses  the  beau- 
tiful valleys  of  the  Susquehanna  and  Juniata. 

Leaving  the  handsome  Broad  St.  Station  (p.  259)  the  train 
crosses  ilaQ Schuylkill  and  runs  to  theN.W.  ihron^WesiBhiladelphia 
(p.  272),  passing  various  suburban  stations,  mostof  which  are  taste- 
ful little  buildings  surrounded  with  flower-gardens.  9 M.  Haver- 
ford  College.,  with  the  most  important  college  of  the  Orthodox 
Quakers,  situated  in  a finely  wooded  park  to  the  left.  — 10  M.  Bryn 
Mawr  (415  ft. ; Welsh  ‘great  hill’;  Bryn  Mawr  Ho.),  is  the  site  of 
*BrynMawr  College,  one  of  the  youngest  (1880)  and  best  colleges 
for  women  in  the  United  States  (450  students).  The  tower  of  the 
main  building  is  conspicuous  to  the  right.  The  latest  addition  to  I 

the  college-buildings  is  Rockefeller  Hall  (1903).  — Near  (12  M.)  | 

Villa  Nova^  with  a R.  0.  college,  monastery,  and  farm,  is  the  Red 
Rose  Inn,  a favourite  resort  of  cyclists  and  other  visitors  from 
Philadelphia.  — To  the  left,  at  (I6Y2  M.)  Devon.,  is  the  large  Devon 
Inn  ($  4-5),  a favourite  summer- resort.  — At  (20  M.)  Paoli  (535  ft.) 
the  British  defeated  the  Americans  on  Sept.  20th,  1777  (monument). 

It  was  the  birthplace  of  ^Mad’  Anthony  Wayne  (1745-96;  p.  188). 

The  train  now  leaves  the  region  of  suburban  homes  and  enters 
the  ^Garden  of  Pennsylvania',  one  of  the  richest  and  most  carefully 
cultivated  farming  districts  in  America.  A splendid  ^Yiew  of  the 
peaceful  Chester  Valley  is  disclosed  to  the  right  as  we  cross  the  ridge 
(550  ft.)  of  a S.  outlier  of  the  Alleghenies  and  emerge  on  the  hill- 
side. We  follow  the  ridge  for  some  time  and  then  descend  to  the 
valley.  — 32Y2  M.  Downingtown.  Iron-works  and  lime-kilns  now 
appear.  — At  (38Y2  M.)  Coatesville  (380  ft. ; 5721  inhab.)  we  cross 
the  West  Brandywinehy  a bridge  73  ft.  high.  — 51  M.  Gap  (560  ft.) 
lies  in  an  opening  in  Mine  Hill,  on  the  watershed  between  the  Del- 
aware and  the  Susquehanna,  and  the  train  now  descends  into  the 
Pequea  Valley,  with  its  fields  of  wheat,  maize,  and  tobacco.  — Cross- 
ing the  Conestoga  Creek,  which  preserves  the  name  of  the  Conestoga 
Indians,  we  reach  (69  M.)  Lancaster  (360  ft. ; Stevens  Ho.,  $2Y2; 

American  Ho.,  $ 2),  a prosperous  manufacturing  town  of  41,460  in- 
hab. and  an  important  market  in  tobacco  and  farm  produce. 


288  Boute  37. 


HARRISBURG. 


From  Philadelphia 


The  Franklin  & Marshall  College  and  the  Theological  Seminary  here  both 
belong  to  the  German  Reformed  Church.  ^Woodward  Hill  Cemetery  con- 
tains the  grave  of  President  Buchanan  (1791-1868).  The  district  is  largely 
peopled  by  the  descendants  of  German  colonists.  A railway  runs  hence 
to  Hanover  and  Gettysburg  (p.  291). 

Beyond  (87  M.)  Elizabethtown  tbe  train  enters  the  picturesque 
defiles  of  the  South  Mountain.  At  (90  M.)  Conewago  we  cross  the 
stream  of  that  name  (view).  Farther  on  we  reach  the  W.  bank  of  the 
Susquehanna a wide,  shallow  stream,  thickly  strewn  with  rocks. 
96  M.  Middletown.,  with  5608  inhab.,  is  an  iron-making  place.  — At 
(102^2  M..')  Steelton  (pop.  12,086)  are  the  huge  works  of  the  Penn- 
sylvania Steel  Co.,  employing  several  thousand  men. 

105  M.  Harrisburg  (320  ft. ; Commonwealth^  Lochyel  Ho..,  $ 3-6 ; 
Bolton.,  from  $ 21/2)?  capital  of  Pennsylvania,  is  finely  situated 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Susquehanna,  here  about  1 M.  wide.  Pop. 
50,167.  Except  when  the  legislature  is  in  session,  it  is  a somewhat 
dull  place.  The  Capitol,  conspicuously  situated  on  a hill,  was  burned 
down  in  1897,  but  has  been  rebuilt  on  a scale  of  greater  size  and 
magnificence.  Opposite  its  W.  facade  is  a Statue  of  Gen.  Hartranft 
(1830-89),  by  Ruckstuhl  (1898).  In  State  St.  is  a War  Monument, 
110  ft.  high.  An  enclosure  in  Harris  Park  contains  the  grave  of  John 
Harris,  father  of  the  founder  of  the  town,  and  the  stump  of  the  tree 
to  which  he  was  tied  by  drunken  Indians  (1718),  who  meant  to 
burn  him  alive.  The  Susquehanna  is  crossed  here  by  four  bridges. 

From  Harrisburg  to  Gettysburg,  471/2  M.,  railway  in  2-2V3hrs.  — The 
train  crosses  the  Susquehanna,  just  below  the  old  bridge  (see  above),  and 
runs  to  the  S.W.  — 22  M.  Carlisle  Junction,  for  a branch-line  to  (6  M.) 
Carlisle  (see  below).  Near  (23  M.)  Mt.  Holly  Springs  we  pass  through  a gap 
(1000  ft.)  in  the  South  Mountain.  As  we  approach  Gettysburg  we  traverse  the 
field  of  the  first  day’s  battle  (see  p.  293).  — 471/2  M.  Gettysburg,  see  p.  291. 

From  Harrisburg  to  Winchester,  116  M.,  Cumberland  Valley  R.  R.  in  4- 
41/3  hrs.  This  line  traverses  the  fertile  "Cumberland  Valley,  between  the  Blue 
Mis.,  on  the  right,  and  the  South  Mountain,  on  the  left.  — The  train  crosses  the 
Susquehanna  as  above.  — 18  M.  Gettysburg  Junction,  for  the  line  to  Gettys- 
burg (see  above).  — 19  M.  Carlisle  (480ft.;  Mansion  Ho.,  $2),  a pleasant 
little  town  of  9626  inhab.,  with  a Government  Indian  Training  School,  in 
which  about  1100  Indian  children  are  taught  the  arts  and  methods  of  civil- 
isation. Carlisle  was  Washington’s  headquarters  during  the  ‘Whiskey  War’ 
of  1794,  and  it  was  captured  by  Gen.  Lee  in  1863.  — About  5 M.  beyond 
(63  M.)  Greencastle  the  train  crosses  the  famous  Mason  and  Dixon's  Line 
(see  p.  291)  and  enters  Maryland  (‘Old  Line  State’),  the  northernmost  of 
the  old  slave-holding  states.  — 74  M.  Hagerstown  (570  ft.;  Baldwin,  $2-3), 
a town  of  13,591  inhab.,  on  the  Antietom,^  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Wash- 
ington (see  p.  SrS),  Harper’s  Ferry  (via  Weverton;  see  p.  328),  and  the 
Shenandoah  Valley  (R.  68).  It  was  a centre  of  military  operations  in  the 
Civil  War.  — At  (81  M.)  Williamsport  Gen.  Lee  crossed  the  Potomac  on  his 
retreat  after  the  battle  of  Gettysburg  (p.  294).  We  here  enter  West  Virginia 
(‘Pan  Handle  State’).  — At  (94  M.)  Martinsburg  (635  ft.),  on  the  Tuscarora, 
we  intersect  the  B.  & O.  R.R.  (p.  327).  — 116  M.  Winchester. 

From  Harrisburg  to  Reading,  54  M.,  railway  in  11/4-2 V2  hrs.  — The 
chief  intermediate  station  is  (26  M.)  Lebanon.  — 54  M.  Reading,  see  p.  285. 

From  Harrisburg  to  Williamsport,  93  M.,  Northern  Central  Railroad 
in  21/4-3  hrs.  This  railway  ascends  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Susquehanna  to 
(53  M.)  Sunbury  (p.  284).  Thence  to  (93  M.)  Williamsport,  see  p.  284. 

From  Harrisburg  to  Baltimore,  see  p.  308. 


to  Pittshurg. 


ALTOONA. 


37.  Route,  289 

Beyond  Harrisburg  tbePenna.  R.  R.  runs  to  the  N,  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Susquehanna  to  (110  M.}  Rockville.^  where  it  bends  to  the  W 
and  crosses  the  river  by  a bridge  2/3  m.  long  (^View).  It  then  turns* 
to  the  N.  again  and  passes  ihQ Dauphin  Gap  (350ft.).  The  river  now 
to  the  is  wide  shallow,  and  nearly  choked  with  grassy  islets. 

Beyond  (120  M.)  Duncannon  the  line  leaves  the  Susquehanna 
and  begins  to  ascend  to  the  left  through  the  valley  of  the  ‘beautiful 
blue’  Juniata^  ‘which  has  been  the  theme  of  more  song  and  rom- 
ance tha.n  almost  any  other  American  river’  (Cook). 

All  this  river,  as  we  cross  ridge  after  ridge  of  the 

Alleghenies,  is  of  the  most  picturesque  character;  and  the  entire  geolog- 
A formation  of  Pennsylvania  is  exhibited  to  the  student,  as  thi  rivfr 
cuts  Its  way  through  a stratification  6-7  M.  in  thickness.  The  line  follows 
he  windings  of  the  river  (views  chiefly  to  the  right).  The  district  traversld 
T of  histoncal  reminiscences  of  the  struggles  of  the  earlv  Scoto- 

tfto  Indians  and  of  the  enterprise  of  David  Brainerd 
u “.'«®>ooaries^.  An  immense  traffic  in  coal  and  iron  is  carried 
on  by  this  line,  and  the  coal-trains  are  sometimes  of  extraordinary  fength^ 

At  (138  M.)  Millerstown  (410  ft.)  we  thread  the  *rtiscarora  Gap 
where  the  railway,  river,  road,  and  canal  squeeze  their  way  side  hy 
side  through  a narrow  defile.  This  lay  in  the  land  of  the  Tuscarora 
Indians  (see  p 233).  Beyond  (164  M.)  Mifflin  we  pass  through  the 
picturesque  Lewistown  or  Long  Narrows,  where  the  railway  runs 
for  several  miles  along  one  side  of  the  stream,  with  the  road  and 
canal  on  the  other.  The  slopes  of  the  hills  (1000  ft.)  are  covered 

rf  o it  fdKn®-  (500  ft.),  a prosperous  little 

place  with  4450  inhab.,  lies  at  the  mouth  otihe  Kishicoquillas  Valley. 

n this  valley,  a little  above  Lewistown,  was  the  home  of  the  famous 

barred  friendship  for  the  white  man  was  changed 

Hatred  by  the  cruel  massacre  of  his  family.  lo 

191 M Mt.  Union  lies  at  the  entrance  o{*Jack’s Narrows (m  ft  ) 
made  by  the  river  forcing  its  way  throngh  Jack’s  Mt.  — 203  M 
Huntingdon  (Brunswick,  $2),  the  largest  town  on  the  Juniata  (6063 
inhab.)  occupies  the  site  of  the  ‘Standing  Stone’,  where  the  Indians 
assembled  for  centuries  to  hold  their  grand  councils. 

*1,  ^ (^09M.)Pet€rs6Mrp(680ft.)we  leave  the  canal,  which  follows 

and  ascend  the  Little  Juniata. 
— At  (222  M ) Tyrone  (905  ft.)  we  reach  the  E.  base  of  the  main 
range  of  the  Alleghenies,  turn  sharply  to  the  left  (S.W.),  and  enter 
the  Luckahoe  Valley.  Bald  Eagle  Valley  opens  to  the  N.E. 

urde^/round  waTereoVs'e’!®®  a singular 

'’ase  of  the  Alleghenies 
NoM^  Altoona  (1180  ft.;  Logan  iJo.,  $3;  Altamont 

Jdolet,  Poitoap  Bestaurant),  a busy  town  of  38,973  inhab., 

whn^  i'?2®50  by  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  and  consisting  almost 
wholly  of  Its  workshops  and  workmen’s  houses. 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  19 


290  Route  37. 


JOHNSTOWN. 


Altoona  is,  perliaps,  the  most  representative  railway-town  in  America. 
The  works  cover  133  acres,  employ  9500  men,  and  produce  300  locomo- 
tives, 200  passenger-cars,  and  1500  freight-cars  annually,  besides  being  the 
general  repair-shops  of  the  company.  Some  of  the  locomotives  built  here 
weigh  168  tons.  — Those  who  wish  to  see  the  fine  passage  of  the  Alle- 
ghenies by  daylight  may  pass  the  night  here.  Good  views  are  obtained  from 
prospect  Hill  to  the  S.  and  Gospel  Hill  to  the  N. 

Beyond  Altoona  the  train  gradually  ascends  to  the  summit  of 
the  mountains,  climbing  a gradient  of  90  ft.  to  the  mile.  At  (242 M.) 
Kittaning  Point  (1595  ft.)  the  line  is  carried  round  the  famous 
^Horseshoe  Curve  (views  to  the  left),  where  the  line  crosses  two  ra- 
vines on  a lofty  embankment  and  cuts  away  the  promontory  dividing 
them.  The  sides  of  the  curve  are  parallel,  so  that  trains  travelling 
the  same  way  may  be  moving  in  opposite  directions.  A little  farther 
on  we  pass  through  a Tunnel^  M.  long  and  2160  ft.  above  the  sea, 
crossing  the  Alleghenies  and  the  watershed  between  the  Atlantic  and 
the  Mississippi.  The  top  of  the  ridge  is  210  ft.  above  the  tunnel. 

The  descent  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  mountains  is  less  abrupt. 
249  M.  Gallitzin,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  tunnel,  is  named  in  honour  of 
Prince  Demetrius  Gallitzin  (d.  1840),  who  laboured  as  a missionary 
in  this  district  for  40  years.  — From  (252  M.)  Cresson  (2015  ft.) 
coaches  ply  to  Loretto,  founded  by  Prince  Gallitzin  (see  above).  — 
We  descend  along  the  upper  waters  of  the  Conemaugh^  and  the 
scenery  increases  in  attractiveness.  Numerous  vestiges  are  seen  of 
the  old  Portage  Railroady  which  formerly  served  the  traffic  across 
the  Alleghenies  by  a series  of  inclined  planes,  communicating  at 
each  end  with  canals.  — Near  (269  M.)  Mineral  Point  (1415  ft.)  we 
cross  the  Conemaugh.  Conemaugh  Lake  (1460  ft.),  the  bursting  of 
the  dam  at  which  caused  the  terrible  disaster  of  1889  (see  below), 
lies  a little  to  the  left.  273  M.  Conemaugh  (1275  ft.). 

275  M.  Johnstown  (1185  ft.;  Merchants^  Hotels  $3),  an  iron-mak- 
ing city  at  the  confluence  of  the  Conemaugh  and  Stony  Creek^  was 
founded  in  1791  by  a German  pioneer,  named  Joseph  Jahns.  it 
contains  35,936  inhab.  and  has  to  a great  extent  recovered  from  the 
effects  of  the  inundation.  The  huge  '^Cambria  Steel  Works,  on  the 
N.  side  of  the  river,  were  partly  destroyed  by  the  inundation  in  1889, 
but  have  been  restored  and  again  give  employment  to  8000  men. 

A glance  at  the  deep  narrow  valleys  with  their  high  enclosing  walls, 
at  the  junction  of  which  the  city  lies,  goes  far  to  explain  the  possibility 
of  so  tremendous  a catastrophe  as  that  which  overwhelmed  Johnstown 
on  May  31st,  1889.  Conemaugh  Lake  (see  above),  21/2  M.  long  and  1^/2  M. 
wide,  was  reserved  as  a fishing-ground  by  a club  of  Pittsburg^  anglers, 
and  its  waters  were  restrained  by  a dam  1000  ft.  long,  110  ft.  high,  80  ft. 
thick  at  the  base,  and  25  ft.  thick  at  the  top.  A continuance  of  violent 
rains  filled  the  lake  to,  overflowing,  and  all  efforts  to  save  the  dam  were 
fruitless.  The  break  occurred  about  3 p.m.,  a gap  of  300  ft.  being  at  once 
formed.  The  water  that  burst  through  swept  down  the  valley  in  a mass 
1/2  M.  wide  and  40  ft.  high,  carrying  away  everything  in  its  way  and 
completely  destroying  Johnstown  and  the  other  towns  and  villages  in  its 
track.  The  distance  of  18  M.  between  Johnstown  and  the  lake  was  traversed 
in  about  7 min.  The  mass  of  houses,  trees,  machinery,  railway  iron,  and 
human  bodies  was  checked  by  the  massive  railway-bridge  below  Johnstown, 


GETTYSBURG. 


38.  Route.  291 


and  soon  caught  fire,  probably  burning  to  death  some  hundreds  of  persons 
imprisoned  in  the  wreckage.  The  estimated  loss  of  life  varies  from  2280 
to  5000.  The  value  of  property  destroyed  was  at  least  $ 10,000,000  (2,000,000^.). 

The  train  descends  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Conemaugh. 
295M.  .BoZfoar(1030ft.)  lies  at  the  entrance  to  the  beautiful  *Pack- 
saddle  Narrows,  where  the  river  breaks  through  the  Chestnut  Range, 
the  W.  ridge  of  the  Alleghenies,  which  tower  1200  ft.  above  the  water’ 
At  (300  M.)  Blairsville  Intersection  (1115  ft.)  the  line  forks,  the  main 
line  leaving  the  Conemaugh  and  running  direct  to  Pittsburg,  while 
the  right  branch  runs  via  Blairsville  to  Allegheny  City  (p.  299). 

The  district  we  traverse  as  we  approach  Pittsburg  is  a veritable 
‘Black  Country’,  full  of  coal-pits,  coke-ovens,  and  smelting-furnaces. 
313  M.  Latrohe;  323  M.  Greenslurg  (1090  ft.).  We  approach  the 
Monongahela  at  (344  M.)  Braddock  s (15,654  inhab.),  which  marks 
the  scene  of  the  memorable  defeat  of  General  Braddock  on  July  9th, 
1755,  on  his  expedition  against  Fort  Du  Quesne  (see  p.  296).  It 
was  in  rallying  the  defeated  British  forces  that  Washington  won 
his  first  military  laurels.  The  huge  Edgar  Thomson  Steel  Works  are 
situated  here  (see  p.  298).  — 347  M.  Wilkinsburg  (926  ft.). 

354  M.  Pittsburg,  see  p.  295. 


38.  Gettysburg.  + 

Gettysburg  is  reached  from  New  York  via  the  Pennsylvania  or  the  Read- 
f ^ 6.50),  from  Philadelphia  via  the  same  railways  in 

4 /2-03/4  hrs.  (comp.  p.  288;  $4),  and  from  Washington  via  Baltimore  in  41/2- 
bV2hrs.  by  the  Western  Maryland  or  the  Northern  Central  R.R.  (comp.  p.  305). 

Gettysburg  (iJogrie,  $2-3;  Gettysburg  Springs  Hotel,  $3-3V2; 
Hot.  Gettysburg,  $2-21/2)1  a small  town  with  (1900)  3495  inhab. 
Jies  about  40  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Harrisburg  (p.  288)  and  7 M.  to  the 
N.  of  the  boundary  between  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland,  the  famous 
Mason  and  Dixon  s Line  (p.  288),  which,  before  the  war,  marked  the 
N.  limit  of  slavery.  On  July  lst-3rd,  1863,  the  vicinity  of  this 
town  was  the  scene  of  what  is  regarded  as  the  chief  contest  of  the 
American  Civil  War  and  as  the  ‘turning-point  of  the  Rebellion’. 
Many  of  the  chief  points  are  now  accessible  by  electric  railway. 

The  battle-ground  covers  about  25  sq.  M.  and  lies  mainly  to  the  S.W. 
of  the  town.  The  Gettysburg  Battlefield  Memorial  Association,  an  organ- 
isation representing  the  soldiers  engaged,  has  marked  all  the  important 
points  by  monuments  placed  on  ground  acquired  for  the  purpose.  The 
tracts  along  the  lines,  aggregating  450  acres,  are  the  land  upon  which  the 
most  important  movements  were  executed.  There  are  over  400  monuments 
on  the  field,  erected  with  the  utmost  care  in  the  exact  localities,  and 
standing  m woods  or  open  fields,  by  the  roadside,  on  the  stony  ridges,  in 
7 designs,  executed  in  bronze,  marble,  or  granite. 

Uver  S 7,OfO,OtO  has  been  expended  on  the  grounds  and  monuments  Several 
iron  view-towers  have  been  erected  at  the  highest  points.  The  battlefield 
^oth  topographically  and  by  art,  than  any 
other  battlefield  in  the  world. 

t This  account  of  Gettysburg  was  prepared  for  Baedeker's  Handbook 
to  the  United  States  by  Mr,  Joel  Cook,  of  the  ‘Philadelphia  Public  Ledger’ 
who  was  present  at  the  battle  as  a special  correspondent.  ^ 

19* 


GETTYSBURG. 


292  Route  38. 


There  were  engaged  in  the  battle  about  80,000  men  on  each  side,  the 
Union  army  having  839  cannon  and  the  Confederates  293.  Generals  George 
Gordon  Meade  and  Robert  Edward  Lee  were  the  respective  commanders, 
and  it  was  among  the  most  hotly  contested  battles  of  the  war  and  the 
largest  in  actual  numbers  engaged.  The  Union  loss  was  3072  killed,  14,497 
wounded,  and  5434  prisoners,  a total  of  23,003;  and  the  Confederate  loss, 
2592  killed,  12,709  wounded,  and  7467  prisoners,  total  23,768. 

The  long  curving  ridges  and  deep  intervening  valleys  of  the  Allegheny 
mountain  ranges  cross  Central  Pennsylvania,  the  South  Mountain  ridge 
passing  to  the  W.  of  Gettysburg,  with  the  Cumberland  Valley  beyond  if, 
having  two  prominent  towns,  Chambersburg  in  Pennsylvania  and  Hagers- 
town on  the  Potomac  river,  in  Maryland.  Two  parallel  ridges  border  the 
plain  on  which  Gettysburg  stands.  The  long  Seminary  Ridge,  stretching 
from  N.  to  S.  about  a mile  to  the  W.  of  the  town,  gets  its  name  from 
the  Lutheran  Theological  Seminary  standing  upon  it;  and  the  Cemetery 
Ridge,  to  the  S.  of  the  town,  which  runs  up  its  slopes,  has,  on  its  N.  flat- 
topped  hill,  the  village  cemetery,  wherein  the  chief  grave  was  that  of 
James  Gettys  after  whom  the  town  was  named.  An  outlying  eminence 
known  as  Culp's  Hill  is  farther  to  the  E.,  making,  with  Cemetery  Ridge, 
a formation  bent  round  not  unlike  a fish-hook,  with  the  cemetery  at  the 
bend  and  Culp's  Hill  at  the  barb,  while  down  at  the  S.  end  of  the  long 
straight  shank  with  the  intervening  rocky  gorge  of  the  'Devil's  Den  , 
nearly  3 M.  away,  are  two  peaks  formed  of  tree-covered  crags,  known  as 
Little  Round  Top  and  Big  Round  Top.  These  long  ridges  with  the  inter- 
vale and  the  country  around  them  are  the  battlefield,  a topographical  con- 
figuration displaying  the  ground  to  great  advantage,  the  many  monuments 
marking  the  respective  lines  of  battle.  Comp.  Plan. 

After  their  victory  at  Chancellorsville  (p.  4r8)  m May,  1863,  the  Con- 
federates determined  to  carry  the  war  to  the  N.  into  the  enemy’s  country. 
Lee  gathered  nearly  90,000  men  at  Culpeper  (Va.),  including  J.  E.  B.  Stuart  s 
cavalry  force  of  10,000  men.  The  Union  army,  commanded  by  General 
Hooker,  was  then  encamped  along  the  Rappahannock  river,  opposite  Fred- 
ericksburg (p.  408),  150  M.  to  the  S.  of  Gettysburg.  Lee  started  to  the 
17  across  the  Potomac,  but  Hooker  did  not  discover  it  for  some  days,  and 
then  followed  him.  The  Confederates  crossed  between  June  ^2nd  and 
June  25th  and  concentrated  at  Hagerstown  (p.  288),  in  the  Cumberland 
Valley,  up  which  thev  made  a rapid  march,  overrunning  the  entire  coun- 
try to  the  Susquehanna  River  (p.  284).  Hooker  was  late  in  movement  aud 
crossed  the  Potomac  to  the  E.  of  Lee  on  June  28th,  thus  making  a north- 
ern race,  with  Lee  in  advance  but  on  the  longer  route  of  the  outer 
circle.  There  were  10,000  Union  troops  in  the  garrison  at  Harper  s Ferry 
fp  328)  on  the  Potomac,  and  Hooker  asked  that  they  be  added  to  ms 
army ; but  the  government  declined,  and  Hooker  immediately  resigned  Ins 
command.  He  was  succeeded  by  Gen.  Meade,  who  thus  on  the  eve  of  the 
battle  became  the  Union  commander.  This  was  on  June  28th,  when  Meade 
was  near  the  Potomac,  and  Ewell  with  Lee's  advance  guard  had  gone  up 
the  Cumberland  Valley  as  far  as  Carlisle  (p.  288)  and  was  threatening 
Harrisburg  (p.  288).  The  main  body  of  Confederates  lay  at  Chambersburg, 
with  nobodv  opposing  them.  Lee,  then  hearing  of  the  Union  pursuit  and 
being  far  from  his  base,  determined  to  face  about  and  cripple  his  pur- 
suers, fixing  upon  Gettysburg  as  the  point  of  concentration.  He  ordered 
Ewell  to  march  to  the  S.  from  Carlisle  and  the  others  to  the  E.  from 
Chambersburg  through  the  mountain-passes.  Meade’s  cavalry  advance  un- 
der Buford  reached  Gettysburg  on  June  30th,  ahead  of  the  Confederates, 
and  Meade’s  army  was  then  stretched  for  60  M.  back  towards  the  Poto- 
mac. When  he  heard  of  Lee’s  changed  tactics,  Meade  concluded  that  his 

extended  formation  was  too  risky  and  decided  to  concentrate  in  a strong 
position  upon  the  Pipe  Creek  Hills  in  Maryland,  about  15  M.  to  the  b.  oi 

Gettysburg.  Thus  the  battle  began  with  each  army  executing  a move- 
ment for  concentration.  ^ ^ -NT 

The  battle  opened  on  July  1st,  the  Union  Cavalry  to  the  W.  and  JN. 
of  Gettysburg  becoming  engaged  with  the  Confederate 
from  the  passes  through  the  South  Mountain.  The  cavalry  was 


GETTI'SBUIIG 


GETTYSBURG. 


38.  Route.  293 

victorious  bat  was  afterwards  overwhelmed  hj  superior  numbers,  and 
With  their  infantry  supports  under  Gen.  Reynolds,  who  was  killed,  were 
driven  back  through  Gettysburg  to  the  cemetery  and  Culp’s  Hill  These 
were  manned  by  fresh  troops  that  had  come  up.  Meade  was  at  Pipe  Creek 
laying  out  a defensive  line , when  he  heard  of  Reynolds’  death  and  (he 
defeat,  and  he  sent  Hancock  forward  to  take  command,  who  -determined 
that  the  Cemetery  Ridge  was  the  place  to  give  battle.  Ewell  in  the  mean- 
tiine  had  extended  his  wing  round  to  the  E.  of  Culp’s  Hill  and  held 
Gettysburg 5 but  active  operations  were  suspended,  and  both  sides  spent 
the  night  getting  their  forces  up.  ^ 

T second  day  opened  with  the  armies  confronting  each  other  in 

line  of  battle,  the  Union  forces  along  the  Cemetery  Ridge,  and  the  Con- 
federates upon  the  Seminary  Ridge  to  the  W.  and  also  stretching  round 
through  Gettysburg,  to  the  N.  of  the  Cemetery,  2 M.  to  the  E.  along  the 
base  Ox  Culp  s Hill.  In  the  long  intervening  valley  and  upon  the  ravines 
and  slopes  of  the  Cemetery  Ridge  and  Culp’s  Hill  the  main  battle  was 
fought.  Lee  opened  the  attack  by  Longstreet  advancing  against  the  two 
Round  lops,  but  after  a bloody  struggle  the  Unionists  held  them.  Sickles 
who  held  the  line  to  the  S.  of  Little  Round  Top,  thought  he  could  improve 
his  position  by  advancing  1/2  M.  towards  Seminary  Ridge,  thus  making  a 
broken  Union  line  with  a portion  thrust  out  dangerously.  The  enemy 
fell  upon  Sickles,  front  and  flank,  almost  overwhelming  his  line  in  the 
Peach  Orchard  and  driving  it  back  to  the  adjacent  ‘Wheat  Field.’  Rein- 
forcements were  poured  in  and  there  was  a hot  conflict,  Sickles  being 
seriously  wounded  and  his  force  almost  cut  to  pieces. 

Ewell  then  made  a terrific  charge  from  out  of  Gettysburg  upon  the 
Culp’s  Hill  with  the  ‘Louisiana  Tigers’  and  other  troops, 
effecting  a lodgement,  although  the  defenders  wrought  great  havoc  with 
their  heavy  cannonade.  The  Union  guns  on  Little  Round  Top  having  ul- 
Umately  cleared  the  Wheat  Field’,  the  combatants  rested:  Lee,  inspirited 
by  fus  partial  successes,  determining  to  renew  the  attack  next  morning. 

On  the  third  and  last  day  Gen.  Meade  opened  the  combat  by  driving 
® Culp’s  Hill  early  in  the  morning.  Lee  did  not  hear 

Of  this,  but  had  an  idea  that  both  the  Union  centre  and  right  win«-  had 
been  weakened  the  previous  day,  and  during  the  night,  he  planned  an  attack 
in  front  to  be  aided  by  a cavalry  movement  round  that  wing  to  assail 
the  rear,  thus  following  up  Ewell’s  supposed  advantage.  To  give  Stuart 
with  his  cavalry  time  to  get  around  to  the  rear,  the  la-ont  attack  was  not 
made  uL  afternoon.  Each  side  got  cannon  in  position  during  the  morn- 
ing, Lee  having  120  guns  along  Seminary  Ridge,  and  Meade  80  in  the 
Cemetery  and  along  a low  irregular  stone  pile,  forming  a sort  of  rude 
wall  along  Uie  Taneytown  road  leading  to  the  S.  from  Gettysburg.  About 
1 p.m.  the  Confederates  opened  fire,  and  the  most  terrific  artillery  duel 
of  the  war  followed  across  the  intervening  valley,  six  guns  being  dis- 
charged every  second.  The  troops,  lying  low,  suffered  little,  but  several 
nion  gu^ns  were  dismounted.  After  two  hours’  deafening  cannonade  Lee 
grand  attack,  the  celebrated  charge  by  Gen.  Pickett,  a force 
ot  14,U0J  men  with  brigade  front  advancing  across  the  valley.  They  had 
’ marching  swiftly,  but  before  they  got  halfway  across,  all 
.he  Union  guns  were  trained  upon  them.  The  attack  was  directed  at  an 
umbrella-shaped  clump  of  trees,  at  a low  point  of  the  Cemetery  Ridge, 
where  the  rude  stone  wall  made  an  angle  with  its  point  outside.  Hancock 
commanded  this  portion  of  the  Union  line,  and  while  the  grape  and  canister 
Of  the  cannonade  ploughed  furrows  through  Pickett’s  ranks,  when  the 
Hancock  opened  musketry  fire  with  terrible 
effect.  Tnousands  fell,  and  the  brigades  broke  in  disorder,  but  the  ad- 
v.ince,  headed  by  Gen.  Armistead  on  foot  continued,  and  about  150  men 
leaped  over  the  stone  piles  at  the  angle  to  capture  the  Union  guns.  Lieut, 
fnwo  wounded  in  both  thighs,  ran  his  last  serviceable  gun 

towards  the  wall,  and  shouted  to  his  commander  ‘Webb,  I will  give  them 
one  more  shot  . He  fired  the  gun  and  died.  Armistead  put  his  hand  on 

I""  cold  steel, 

bo>s  j then  pierced  by  bullets,  he  fell  dead  alongside  Cushing.  Both  lay 


294  Route  38. 


GETTYSBURG. 


near  the  clumps  of  trees  about  30  yds.  inside  the  wall,  their  corpses  mark- 
the  farthest  point  to  which  Pickett’s  advance  penetrated,  where  the 
Water  Mark  Monument’  now  marks  the  top  of  the  flood  tide  of  the 
reSion  for  afterwards  there  was  a steady  ebb.  There  was  a hand  to 
hand  conflict,  Webb  was  wounded  and  also  Hancock,  and  the  slaughter  was 
The  Confederates  were  overwhelmed,  and  not  one-fourth  of  the 
Slant  charging  column  composed  of  the  flower  of  the  Virginia  troops 
Scaped,  the  remnant  retreating  in  disorder.  StuarCs  ca^valry  tailed  to 
fobperate,  having  unexpectedly  met  the  Union  cavalry  about  4 M to  the 
t of  Gettysburg  and  the  conflict  that  ensued  prevented  their  attacking 
fte  uSo^rea?’  After  Pickett’s  retreat  there  was  a general  Union  ad- 
v7nce  which  closed  the  combat.  Daring  the  n>gl>t  Lee  began  a retreat, 
and  aided  by  the  heavy  rains  usually  following  great  battles,  the  Confedei- 
ates  next  dav  withdrew  through  the  mountain-passes  towards  Hagerstown, 
and  Srwards  escaped  across  the  Potomac.  The  day  of  Lee’s  retreat 
Vicksbur7sur?endere"d  to  Gen.  Grant  (see  p.  402)  and  these  two  great 
events  wire  the  beginning  of  the  Confederacy’s  downfall. 

battletteld  is  now  covered  with  monuments  and  marking  po.sts 
designating  the  positions  of  the  opposing  armies.  Its  survey  is  best  begun 
ht  a®  tour  to  the  K.  and  W.  of  the  town,  the  scene  of  the  first  day’s  fight. 
The  morl  i^erlsting  tour,  however,  is  to  the  S.  from  Gettysburg  Ascend- 
inp-  Ccmeterv  Hill  we  pass  by  tbe  roadside  tbe  home  of  Jenny  Wade,  the 
™ly  Xl^kiUed^n  the  little,  accidentally  shot  while  baking  bread. 
ThJ  rounded  Cemetery  Hill  is  a strong  and  elevated  position  f>taring 
many  monuments,  and  here,  alongside  the  little  village-graveyard,  the 
Government  has  a National  Cemetery  of  17  acres,  where  35^2  soldiers  are 
buried  over  1000  being  the  unknown  dead.  A magnificent  battle  monu- 
ment rises  above  them,  surmounted  by  a statue  of  Liberty,  ^d  having 
ligures  of  War,  History,  Peace,  and  Plenty  at  the  base  of  the  shaft  This 
ch  rming  spot  was  the  centre  of  the  Union  line,  then  a rough,  rocky  hill. 
This  cemetLy  was  dedicated  on  Nov.  19th  1863  Edward  Everett  deliver- 
inir  the  oration:  the  monument  was  dedicated  on  July  1st,  1^9.  The 
cemetery  cost  $ 150,000.  At  the  ceremony  of  its  dedication  ^President 
Lincoln  was  present,  and  made  the  famous  twenty  line  acWress,  which  is 
regarded  as  the  most  immortal  utterance  of  the  martyr.  The  Westminster 
Review  described  it  as  an  oration  having  but  one  equal,  m tha,t  pronounced 
upon  those  who  fell  during  the  first  year  of  the  Peloponnesian  War,  and 
L being  its  superior,  because  ‘natural,  fuller  of  feeling  more  touching 
and  pathetic,  and  we  know  with  an  absolute  certainty  that  it  was  really 
delivered’.  The  President,  when  requested  to  say  a few  words  by  way  of 
dedication,  drew  from  his  pocket  a crumpled  piece  of  paper,  on  which  he 
had  written  some  notes,  and  spoke  as  follows;  — ^ ^ 

‘Fourscore  and  seven  years  ago  our  fathers  brought  forth  upon  this 
continent  a new  nation,  conceived  in  liberty,  and  dedicated  to  the  pro- 
position that  all  men  are  created  equal.  Now  we  are 
civil  war,  testing  whether  that  nation,  or  any  nation,  f 
dedicated  can  long  endure.  We  are  met  on  a great  battlefield  of  that 
war  We  are  met  to  dedicate  a portion  of  it  as  the  final  resting-place,  of 
those  who  here  gave  their  lives  that  that  nation  might  live.  It  is  alto- 
gether fitting  and  proper  that  we  should  do  this.  But,  in  a larger  sense, 
we  cannot  dedicate,  we  cannot  consecrate,  we  cannot  hallow  this  ground. 
The  brave  men,  living  and  dead,  who  struggl^ed  here  have 
far  above  our  power  to  add  or  detract.  The  world  will  little  note  nor 
long  remember  what  we  say  here,  but  it  can  never  /ojgetjvhat  they  did 
here.  It  is  for  us,  the  living,  rather  to  be  dedicated  here  iin- 

finished  work  that  they  have  thus  far  so  nobly  carried  on.  R ^^er 
for  us  to  be  here  dedicated  to  the  great  task  remaining  before  us-that  from 
these  honoured  dead  we  take  increased  devotion  to  the  cause  for  cE 
they  here  gave  the  last  full  measure  of  devotion— that  we  ^’S^y 

resolve  that  the  dead  shall  not  have  died  in  vain-that  the  ^^mn  shall, 
under  God,  have  a new  birth  of  freedom,  and  that  ^ 

people,  by  the  people,  for  the  people,  shall  i.ot  perish  ^rom  the  earth. 

^ From  the  cemetery  the  Lutheran  seminary  is  seen  a mile  acro.ss  the 


reauptei 


Iridtftv 


1 1 Duqitesne  ThealX'  -5' 

12  ^urofi  ” D'J 

3 Grand  " ('3' 


pinrTrSiUR© 


A\lLLi©«HJENjY 


Ml.Wjishiiigtoii 


■Wa^erA-  DeTjes'^og^  Estab^  Leipzig. 


PITTSBURG. 


39.  Route.  295 

valley,  the  most  conspicuous  landmark  of  the  Confurlpm+n  ^ ■> 

H;  is  to  theS.B  strWn  with  boulders  anriimbe^^^^ 

here'L  ?he  old  onef  Mr'‘’T’he*’‘fh;ariel1‘'‘X''  “-d  ^^P’^^'-ted 

and  beyond  .we  “o^^down  amo\g"'’jb1‘1rfgs  t S'Cw'Irs”  oT  the“  vTj 

preserved  as  in  the  battle.  Cannon  surmount' the"  ‘Rinnd  'PnlV'*”'*’®"’’ 
senting  the  batteries  there  during  the  battle  To  (be  W arrn«^  »?.  ’’*1?''®' 

is  the  long  fringe  of. timber  that  masked  the  Con^iWate  L,ftinf !?'’ 

ground  has  been  located  alongside *the  ‘Round 

s^prdurTu‘g\rM.se^^^^^^^^ 

f"orttr‘Newirgi:L"h';UTn"d'se‘^^^^^ 

colonel,  Paul  Revefe,  was  killed  1 fhe  ba“(?e  ' ^a  iev^^tt 

tourist  returns  to  the  N.  along  the  Confederate  linf  wh^l  n ‘ 

t^ffie  w'  0fVe^?vsh®  ’"“ii  **‘®  ®®®.“?  day’^corn"  ct  ’is  reacbe": 

fpii  iviof  cttysburg.  Here  a granite  stone  marks  where  Revnolrlq 

SiS  ‘s- 

S?!?.’;!;.!!,**’  V '!“  '«"■«■>"••■»  Si. il: 

39.  Pittsburg. 

P R^R^'^fn^^  Chief  are  the  Union  Station  (PI.  D 3)  of  the 

LLpobst  S"n‘(Pk  “ct'ir  for®‘ibe  B'^dt  O^ires'^T  ’ ‘"® 

Lake  Erie  Station  (Pi  C 4 , for  trains  To  1 P^tUhurg  and 

etc.,  and  the  m,6L  Statdi  In.  C?3X  for  the' wlb’asbtnes’ 

?iv“nv"7pi?^t  fl^^’s'lT  V.’ 

large  house  near  Schenley  Park  (bevond  PI  P 31  fuo^t’o  .^ohenlev,  a 
centre  of  the  city,  from  $ I./s,  E from  ff:/ ’■  M’o?,;HetEL  tpi  a“r  '31® 
peasantly  situated  at  the  river-end  of  Smithfleld  St.,  $ 3-4 ; ' Andebson 
fPl’  c’  C situated  but  somewhat  noisy,  $ 3-5;  *Duquesne 

ViCTOBii^’CPl.’ d®”c"‘3?''R®  iVom  Fifth  Ave. ; 

C 3),  Smilhli^d’s?.’,  ESfomt”sVvEB^fAv*E"K^B®%f^g.''r3TI”2/;k;^ 
Si.  Charles  (PI.  f;  C,  3),  $2-3;  Colobial,  sSrjt  $®i3  ’ 

s.i”SSSiS5S£irH5-““- 


296  Route  39. 


PITTSBURG. 


History. 


Tramways  (electric)  run  through  the  chief  streets  and  to  the  suburbs. 
— Inclined  Railways  (10  in  all),  a characteristic  feature  of  Pittsburg,  lead 
to  various  points  on  the  enclosing  hills. 

Theatres.  Nixon  (PI.  2^  D,  3),  opened  in  1903,  at  a cost  of  $1,500,000; 
Bijou  (PI.  C,  3);  Alvin.^  Hyde's.^  both  in  the  same  block  as  the  Bijou;  Grand 
(PI.  3;  C,  3);  Avenue.^  in  the  same  building  as  the  Grand;  Duquesne  Theatre 
(PI.  1;  C,  3). 

Post  Office  (PI.  C,  3),  Smithfield  St.,  cor.  of  4th  Ave. 

‘ Pittsburg  (745  ft.),  tlie  second  city  of  Pennsylvania  and  one  of 
the  chief  industrial  centres  of  the  United  States,  occupies  the  tongue 
of  land  between  the  Monongahela  and  the  Allegheny^  which  here 
unite  to  form  the  Ohio.,  and  also  a strip  of  land  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
Monongahela.  The  sister  city  of  Allegheny  lies  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
Allegheny  and  extends  down  to  the  Ohio.  Pop.  (1900)  of  Pittsburg 
821,616,  of  Allegheny  City  129,896.  For  all  practical  purposes  the 
two  cities  may  be  regarded  as  one  (like  Manchester  and  Salford), 
though  they  have  separate  municipal  governments.  The  point  of  the 
tongue  is  quite  flat,  and  also  the  immediate  river -banks;  but  the 
tongue  rises  rapidly  towards  its  root,  and  there  are  only  narrow 
strips  of  level  ground  between  the  rivers  and  the  abrupt  heights  on 
the  S.  side  of  the  Monongahela  and  the  N.  side  of  the  Allegheny. 
The  residential  quarters  are  mainly  on  the  highlands  of  Pittsburg 
to  theE.  and  those  of  Allegheny  to  the  N.  The  rest  of  the  delta  and 
the  river-banks  are  given  over  to  manufacturing  and  are  generally 
covered  with  a pall  of  dense  black  smoke.  The  two  cities  are  sub- 
stantially built,  and  the  rivers  are  crossed  by  numerous  bridges. 

Pittsburg  occupies  the  site  of  the  French  Fort  Duquesne.,  erected  in 
1754  and  abandoned  on  the  advance  of  Gen.  Forbes  in  1758.  Its  place 
was  taken  by  the  English  Fort  Pitt  (see  p.  297),  and  the  laying  out  of  the 
town  of  Pittsburg  may  be  dated  from  about  1765.  Its  early  importance 
was  due  to  its  trade  with  the  Indians,  and  its  commercial  advantages  are 
still  conspicuous;  but  the  great  basis  of  the  prosperity  of  the  ‘Iron  City’ 
has  been  the  fact  that  it  stands  in  the  centre  of  one  of  the  richest  coal 
districts  in^the  globe,  the  four  counties  immediately  adjoining  Pittsburg 
yielding  58,300,000  tons  of  coal  in  1902.  Pittsburg  also  stands  in  the  centre 
of  the  chief  natural  gas  district  (see  below),  and  the  use  of  this  as  fuel 
gave  a great  impetus  to  its  manufacturing  industry,  though  it  is  now 
mainly  used  for  domestic  purposes.  The  iron  ore,  of  which  Pittsburg  uses 
about  8,003,000  tons  annually,  comes  chiefly  from  Lake  Superior  (pp.  372, 
373).  ,The  Pennsylvania,  New  York,  W.  Virginia,  and  E.  Ohio  oil-fields 
lie  mainly  in  the  basin  of  the  Allegheny  and  Ohio  Rivers  to  the  N.E.,  S., 
and  S.W.  of  Pittsburg  and  in  1901  yielded  49,657,205  barrels  of  petroleum. 
The  staple  manufactures  of  Pittsburg  are  iron,  steel,  and  glass  (comp, 
p.  298).  The  total  value  of  its  manufactures  in  190()  was  $203,261,251. 

Natural  Gas  is  one  of  the  gaseous  members  of  the  paraffin  series 
(of  which  petroleum  is  a liquid  member)  and  consists  mainly  of  marsh 
gas,  the  ‘fire  damp’  of  the  miner.  Its  origin  is  the  decomposition  of  forms 
of  animal  or  vegetable  life,  and  it  is  stored  under  pressure  below  strata 
of  rock,  being  set  free  when  those  are  pierced.  Usually  it  has  but  little 
odour.  Natural  gas  has  been  known  to  exist  in  America  for  over  a 
century,  but  the  first  economical  use  of  it  was  made  in  1821,  when  the 
town  of  Fredonia,  New  York,  was  lighted  with  the  product  of  a small 
well.  Its  use  in  iron-making  in  Western  Pennsylvania  began  in  1874  at 
the  mills  of  Leechhurg.,  34  M.  above  Pittsburg.  It  was  first  used  in  Pitts- 
burg itself  in  1886,  when  the  gas  from  the  Haymaker  Well  in  Murrysville., 
the  chief  field  of  supply  for  Pittsburg,  was  conveyed  in  pipes  to  the  city,  a 


Court  House. 


PITTSBURG. 


39.  Route.  297 


distance  of  19  M.  The  annual  consumption  of  natural  gas  at  Pittsburg 
at  present  may  be  estimated  at  about  30,000,000,000  cubic  ft.  fully  one- 
balf  of  which  is  used  for  domestic  purposes.  Its  price  is  25’c.  per  1000 
cubic  feet  to  private  individuals,  and  7-15  c.  to  manufacturers.  There  is 
no  question  but  that  the  supply  is  gradually  giving  out:  audit  is  al- 
ready too  high-priced  for  the  rolling  mills,  which  are  reverting  to  coal 
and  other  for^  of  fuel  gas.  The  illuminating  power  of  natural  gas  is 
low.  About  1300  M.  of  pipping  are  used  in  leading  the  gas  to  Pittsburg,  in 
about  7 different  lines.  The  pressure  at  the  wells  averages  100  lbs.  per 
sq.  inch  and  has  been  measured  up  to  700  lbs.  In  fuel  value  12  cubic  ft. 
of  gas  are  equal  to  1 lb.  of  coal.  The  process  of  drilling  for  gas  is  sim- 
ilar  to  that  of  drilling  for  petroleum.  Those  who  wish  to  visit  a gas- 


Smithpield  Street  (PI.  C,  3),  diverging  from  Liberty  Avenue 
(P1*G“P, 1-3^,  near  tlie  Union  Stution^  l^s^ds  to  tlie  river  Monongah-ela* 
and  the  visitor  is  recommended  to  begin  by  following  this  street  to’ 
the  (V2  M.)  bridge  (tramway)  and  crossing  it  to  obtain  the  view  of 
the  city  from  Washington  Heights.  On  the  way  we  pass,  to  the  right 
the  City  Hall  (PI.  C,  3).  A little  farther  on,  to  the  left,  is  the  Post 
Office  (PI.  0,  3).  At  the  bridge  are  the  Monongahela  Hotel  (r.)  and 
tlie  Baltimore  Ohio  Station  (1.). 

Crossing  the  Smithfield  Street  Bridge  (PI.  C,  4),  we  should  ascend 
to  the  top  of  Mt.  Washington  (370  ft.)  by  one  of  the  three  Inclined 
Railways  (5  c.)  on  this  side.  These  interesting,  but  at  first  somewhat 
startling,  pieces  of  apparatus  are  worked  by  ropes  (not  cog-wheels) 
and  transport  horses  and  carriages  as  well  as  persons. 
fTvo  from  the  top  of  the  busy  cities  of  Pittsburg  and  Allegheny, 

the  three  rivers,  and  the  encircling  hills,  all  more  or  less  enveloped  in 
smoke,  is  highly  imposing  and  picturesque.  At  night,  when  the  cold  gleam 
wn  the  lurid  glare  of  the  furnaces  and  smelting 

®tfect  IS  still  more  weird  and  fascinating.  The  deep  basin  in 
which  Pittstog  lies  has  suggested  the  name  of  ‘Hell  with  the  lid  olP. 
The  Court  House  and  Post  Office  are  conspicuous.  The  view  is  most 
extensive  on  Sun  , owing  to  the  absence  of  smoke. 


The  finest  building  in  Pittsburg  and  one  of  the  best  in  the 
United  States  is  the  ^Allegheny  County  Court  House  (PI.  0,  D 3) 
in  Grant  St.,  a splendid  example  of  H.  H.  Richardson  s treatment  of 
Romanesque,  erected  in  1888  at  a cost  of  $2,500,000  (500,000^.). 
The  massive  Gaol  is  connected  with  the  Court  House  by  a finely 
handled  stone  bridge.  The  main  tower  (*View)  is  320ft.  high.  The 
three  entrances  in  the  chief  facade  seem  somewhat  low  and  depress- 
ed for  the  size  of  the  building. 

rni  remnant  of  Fort  Pitt  (p.  296)  is  an  old  Block  House 

(PI.  B,  3),  in  Fort  St.,  near  Point  Bridge,  which  has  recently  been 
restored  by  the  Daughters  of  the  American  Revolution  (tablet,  1764). 

Allegheny  River,  are  the  Exposition  Buildings 
(PL  B,  o),  in  which  annual  exhibitions  are  held. 

The  Pennsylvania  Incline  (PL  E,  2),  17th  St.,  is  interesting  from 
the  manner  in  which  it  is  led  down  over  the  top  chord  of  the  bridge 
spanning  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  at  its  foot.  — Other  buildings 
of  importance  are  the  Frick  Building,  a granite  office-structure  of 


298  Route  39. 


PITTSBURG. 


Carnegie  Institute. 


20  stories  at  the  corner  of  Fifth  Ave.  and  Grant  St.  (PI.  C,  3); 
the  Carnegie  Building.^  the  Farmers"  Deposit  Bank  Building.,  the  Park 
Building,  and  the  School  of  the  Ursuline  Nuns  (these  four  also  in  Fifth 
Avenue);  the  German  National  Bank;  the  National  Bank  of  Com- 
merce; the  Duqitesne  Club;  the  Arrott  Building;  and  Trinity  Church. 
The  R.  C.  Cathedral  of  St.  Paul  also  stands  in  Fifth  Avenue,  at  the 
cor.  of  Craig  St.,  about  1 M.  beyond  our  plan. 

To  the  E.  of  the  city  (beyond  PI.  F,  2,  3)  lies  Schenley  Park, 
given  to  the  city  by  Mrs.  Mary  E.  Schenley  and  containing  the  fine 
Phipps  Conservatory  and  the  Hall  of  Botany,  both  presented  by 
Mr.  Henry  Phipps.  — Near  the  Forbes  St.  entrance  to  the  Park  is 
the  *Carnegie  Institute,  built  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style  in 
1892-95  and  presented  to  the  city  by  Mr.  Andrew  Carnegie.  The 
cost  was  $ 800,000,  besides  $ 300,000  given  for  branch-libraries. 

Two  stories  in  the  main  building  are  occupied  by  the  Free  Library, 
which  has  a present  capacity  of  200,000  volumes;  but  the  extension  now 
under  way , at  an  additional  cost  of  $ 5,000,000,  will  increase  the  capacity 
of  the  library  to  about  1,100,000  volumes.  The  building  also  includes  a 
Music  Hall  (with  2000  seats),  an  Art  Gallery  for  exhibitions,  and  the  Mu- 
seum (natural  history,  including  the  Bayet  collection  of  100,000  fossils, 
historical  relics,  etc.)  and  Department  of  Fine  Arts  of  the  Carnegie  Institute. 

The  third  department  of  the  Institute  is  the  Carnegie  Technical  Schools, 
which  are  being  built  near  the  Library.  These  will  cooperate  with  the 
public  schools,  although  having  a special  board  of  trustees  and  their  own 
special  management. 

To  see  tbe  pleasant  residence-quarters  on  the  bills,  we  take  a 
Highland  Avenue  Electric  Car,  aligbt  at  its  terminus,  and  walk  up 
to  (1/4  M.)  Highland  Park  (5  M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  City  Hall),  which 
commands  a fine  *View,  especially  of  the  Allegheny.  The  park 
contains  the  town-reservoirs  and  a good  zoological  collection.  We 
may  return  to  Pittsburg  by  the  Negley  Ave.  cars. 

No  one  should  leave  Pittsburg  without  visiting  one  at  least  of 
the  great  iron  and  steel  works  which  have  made  its  prosperity  and 
reputation.  Among  these  are  the  Edgar  Thomson  Steel  Works,  the 
Homestead  Steel  Works,  the  Duquesne  Steel  Works,  the  American 
Bridge  Co.,  the  Jones  ^ Laughlins  Works,  the  Oliver  Iron  ^ Steel  Co., 
the  Crescent  Steel  Works,  and  the  Pressed  Steel  Car  Co. 

Those  who  wish  to  visit  the  four  first-named  works  apply  for  a pass 
at  the  office  of  the  Carnegie  Steel  Co.,  Carnegie  Building,  Fifth  Aves 
(PI.  C,  3).  Half-a-day  at  least  should  be  allowed  for  the  visit.  PerhapH 
the  best  way  is  to  go  to  Bessemer,  on  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  (from  Union 
Station);  visit  the  Edgar  Thomson  Works;  proceed  thence  by  the  tramway 
passing  the  works  to  Munhall  (5  c.),  alighting  at  the  gate  of  the  Homestead 
Works;  take  the  tramway  thence  to  Duquesne  (5  c.),  getting  off  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Duquesne  Steel  Works;  and  return  to  Pittsburg  by  the  P.  R.  R.  to 
Fourth  Ave.  or  Union  Station.  — The  Edgar  Thomson  Works  have  an 
annual  capacity  for  the  production  of  1,100,000  tons  of  metal,  their  chief 
product  being  steel  rails.  The  Homestead  Steel  Works  have  an  annual 
capacity  of  400,000  tons  of  Bessemer  steel  and  1,500,000  tons  of  open  hearth 
steel.  Large  quantities  of  nickel-steel  armour-plates  are  made  here.  Natural 
gas  is  largely  used  for  fuel  at  both  works.  The  two  works  employ  about 
6000  men.  The  Duquesne  Steel  Works,  on  the  Monongahela,  3 M.  above 
Homestead,  ha-  e four  of  the  grea'est  bla.=t  furnaces  in  the  world,  producing 
2200  tons  of  pig  iron  per  day.  — The  American  Bridge  Works  at  A mb  ridge, 


Allegheny  City.  PITTSBURG.  39.  Route.  299 

on  the  Ohio,  20  M.  below  Pittsburg,  are  the  largest  and  most  modern 
wo.rks  of  the  kind  in  the  world. 

The  American  Iron  <i;  Steel  Works  (Jones  & Laughlins)  are  on  the  S. 
bank  of  the  Monongahela,  opposite  Pittsburg.  — The  Westinghouse  Electrical 
Works  at  East  Pittsburg  also  repay  a visit. 

The  Pittsburg  Plate  Glass  Wjrks  and  the  Macbeth  Glass  Works  (pro- 
ducing 50,000  dozen  lamp-chimneys  per  week)  are  at  Charleroi^  40  M.  up  the 
Monongahela,  and  may  be  reached  either  by  train  or  boat  (see  below).  — 
Glass  works  at  Ford  City^  see  below. 

Allegheny  Gity  (Hotel  Federal),  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Allegheny, 
offers  few  attractions  to  the  visitor.  The  value  of  its  manufac- 
tures in  1900  was  $54,137,000.  Taking  a tramway-car  in  6th  St. 
(PI.  C,  3),  we  cross  the  river  and  follow  Federal  St.  to  the  City 
Hall  and  the  * Carnegie  Free  Library  (PL  C,  2).  Thence  we  may 
follow  Ohio  St.  to  the  S.W.,  passing  St.  Peter  s Church,  to  the  Park 
(PI.  B,  2).  To  the  left  rises  a hill  crowned  by  the  Soldiers'  Monu- 
ment (PI.  B,  2),  to  which  we  should  ascend  for  its  *View  of  the  two 
cities.  Walkers  may  descend  on  the  other  side  and  return  to 
Pittsburg  via  the  old  covered  Union  Bridge  (PI.  B,  2,  3).  The 
Western  Penitentiary  is  so  called  in  contradistinction  to  the  Eastern 
Penitentiary  at  Philadelphia  (p.  269). 

River  Navigation.  Through  the  Monongahela,  Allegheny,  and  Ohio 
more  than  20,000  M.  of  inland  navigation  are  open  to  the  steamers  of  the 
cities  of  Pittsburg  and  Allegheny,  and  regular  communication  is  thus 
kept  up  with  JVew  Orleans  (p.  461),  2000  M.  distant.  The  tonnage  of  the 
river-craft  of  Pittsburg  (2,500,000  tons)  is  said  to  be  greater  than  that  of 
New  York  or  all  the  Mississippi  ports  put  together.  This  is  owing  to 
the  enormous  coal  traffic,  and  stern-wheel  tug-boats  may  frequently 
be  seen  conveying  a train  of  barges  with  a total  cargo  of  25,C00  tons  of 
coal.  — The  Davis  Island  Dam  (movable),  on  the  Ohio,  4 M.  below  the 
city,  was  constructed  at  a cost  of  nearly  $1,000,000  (200,000^.)  and  has 
one  lock  500  ft.  long  and  110  ft.  wide.  Much  has  also  been  done  and  is 
doing  to  improve  the  navigation  of  the  Monongahela  and  the  Allegheny. 

A trip  up  the  Monongahela  by  steamer,  as  far  as  Monongahela  City  or 
Brownsville,  is  very  interesting.  The  river  is  lined  with  coal  ‘tipples’. 

From  Pittsburg  to  Connellsville,  either  by  the  IF.  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  (56  M.)  or  by  the  B.  dt  0.  R.  R.  (57  M.),  in  13/4-3  hrs.  — Connells- 
V ille  (Yough  Ho.,  $2),  a town  of  7160  inhab.,  on  the  Youghiogheny,  lies 
in  the  midst  of  one  of  the  two  chief  coke  regions  in  the  world,  the  other 
being  that  of  Durham,  England.  About  6,000,000  tons  of  coke  are  pro- 
duced here  annually. 

From  Pittsburg  to  Buffalo,  269  M.  , in  8-82/4  hrs.  (Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  to  Oil  City,  132  M.^  Western  New  York  & Pennsylvania  R.  R.  thence 
to  Buffalo,  137  M.).  This  line  runs  through  one  of  the  chief  petroleum 
districts,  and  numerous  oil-wells,  in  operation  or  deserted,  are  passed. 
Petroleum  is  obtained  from  oil-bearing  sands  by  pipes  of  varying  diameter, 
sunk  to  a depth  of  300-3000  ft.  The  oil  is  transmitted  to  the  large  storage 
tanks  of  the  Pipe  Line  Companies  by  pipe  lines,  which  are  sometimes 
hundreds  of  miles  long.  — The  railway  at  first  follows  tYiC  Allegheny  River. 
41  M.  Ford  City,  with  the  largest  plate-glass  works  in  the  world  (64  acres 
under  roof).  — 132  M.  Oil  City  (Arlington,  $2-3),  a city  of  13,26Unhab.,  is 
the  great  centre  of  the  Oil  District,  and  all  the  processes  of  procuring, 
preparing,  and  shipping  the  oil  may  be  conveniently  observed  here.  In  1892 
Oil  City  was  the  scene  of  a terrible  disaster,  caused  by  the  catching  fire  of 
a large  petroleum  tank.  The  burning  oil,  OA'^erspreading  the  water  in  the 
creek,  set  fire  to  many  buildings  and  caused  the  loss  of  many  lives.  — The 
train  now  follows  the  valley  of  Oil  Creek,  with  many  abandoned  wells. 
It  is  calculated  that  somewhere  about  1805  this  valley,  between  Oil  City 


300  Route  40. 


WILMINGTON. 


and  Titusville,  contained  75,000  people.  At  least  60  million  barrels  of  oil, 
valued  at  $200,000,000,  were  taken  from  the  valley  in  ten  years.  The 
present  yield  is  insignificant.  — 148  M.  Titusville  {Brunswick.,  Mansion  Ho., 
$ 2),  with  8244  inhab. , is  another  busy  oil-centre.  — 176  M.  Gorry  (5369 
inhab.).  — 205  M.  Mayville,  at  the  head  of  Chautauqua  Lake  (1300  ft.),  is 
the  junction  for  (4  K.)  Chautauqua  (see  p.  345).  — 219  M.  Brocton,  and 
thence  to  (289  M.)  Buffalo,  see  R.  46a. 

Fkom  Pittsburg  to  Erie,  148  M.,  Pennsylvania  Railway  in  43/4.51/3  hrs. 

— 17  M,  Economy,  a picturesque  village  on  a plateau  above  the  Ohio, 
owned  by  the  Harmonists,  or  disciples  of  Father  Rapp.  Most  of  the  houses 
are  now  rented  to  outsiders,  as  the  community  has  dwindled  to  a mere 
handful.  — 25  M.  Rochester  (see  below) ^ 47  M.  Lawrence  Junction;  92  M. 
Jamestown;  133  M.  Girard,  and  thence  to  (148  M.)  Erie,  see  R.  46a. 

From  Pittsburg  to  Cleveland,  150  M.,  Penna.  R.  R.  in  31/2-6  hrs. 

— This  line  diverges  from  that  to  Erie  at  (25  M.)  Rochester.  - 48  M.  Wells- 
ville;  93  M.  Alliance;  124  M.  Hudson.  — 150  M.  Cleveland,  see  p.  331. 

From  Pittsburg  to  Wheeling,  68  M.,  B.  & 0.  R.  R.  in  2V6-23/4  hrs.  — 
Wheeling,  see  p.  329. 

From  Pittsburg  to  Columbus  and  Cincinnati,  see  R.  44b ^ to  Chicago, 
see  R.  44b. 


40.  From  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore. 

96  M.  Pennsylvania  Railway  in  2-31/4  hrs.  (fare  $2.80;  parlor-car  50  c.). 
From  New  York  (186  M.)  in  41/4-6  his.  (fare  $5.30).  — The  Baltimore  & 
Ohio  R.  R.  follows  almost  the  same  route  (similar  times  and  fares). 

Philadelphia  (Broad  St.  Station),  see  p.  259.  The  train  crosses 
the  Schuylkill  and  runs  to  the  S.W.,  not  far  from  the  W.  bank  of  the 
Delaware.  1 M.  West  Philadelphia  (p.  272).  The  University  of  Penn- 
sylvania (p.  272)  and  the  Blockley  Almshouses  (p.  272)  are  seen  to 
tile  right.  1372  M.  Chester,  with  the  Pennsylvania  Military  Academy 
and  33,988  inhab. , was  settled  by  the  Swedes  in  1643.  Between 
(17  M.)  Linwood  and  (19  M.)  Claymont  we  cross  a small  stream  and 
enter  the  State  of  Delaware  (‘Diamond  State’).  Farther  on  we  cross 
the  Brandywine  (see  below)  and  reach  — 

27  M.  Wilmington  {Clayton  Ho.,  $ 272;  Wilmington,  $ 2-872)7 
the  chief  city  of  Delaware,  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Dela- 
ware, Brandywine,  and  Christiana,  with  76,508  inhab.  and  exten- 
sive manufactures,  including  the  making  of  iron  (Diamond  State 
Steel  Works,  Diamond  State  Iron  Works,  etc.),  carriages,  railway- 
cars,  iron  and  wooden  ships  (Harlan  & Hollingsworth  Shipyards), 
gunpowder,  morocco  and  other  leather,  and  cotton  goods  (total  value 
in  1900,  $ 28,372,000).  The  most  interesting  point  is  the  Old  Swedes 
Church  (seen  to  the  right  as  we  enter  the  station),  which  dates  from 
1698  and  marks  the  site  of  the  first  Swedish  colony  in  America 
and  the  first  permanent  European  settlement  in  the  valley,  of  the 
Delaware  (1638).  The  Wilmington  Institute  has  a library  of  over 
50,000  volumes. 

Picturesque  walks  may  be  taken  in  the  -Glen  of  the  Brandywine  (public 
park).  — Battle  of  the  Brandywine,  in  which  Washington  was  defeated 
by  the  English  in  Sept.,  1777,  was  fought  about  13  M.  to  the  N.W. 

From  Wilmington  to  Cape  Charles,  192  M.,  railway  in  51/2  hrs.  This 
line,  which  descends  the  narrow  peninsula  to  the  E.  of  Chesapeake  Bay 
(p.306  ),  is  of  some  importance  as  forming  part  of  a through-route  from 


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BALTIMORE. 


41,  Route,  301 


New  York  to  Old  Point  Comfort  (p.  415^  IOV2-II  hrs.)  and  as  a means  of 
bringing  fruit  and  vegetable  supplies  to  the  Northern  cities.  It  runs 
through  the  famous  peach  district  of  Delaware.  One  perfectly  straight 
section  of  this  line,  90  M.  long,  is  said  to  be  the  longest  tangent  in  the 
United  States  From  (192  M.)  Cape  Charles  steamers  ply  to.(24M.)  Old 
Point  Comfort  (p.  415)  and  (36  M.)  Norfolk  (p.  414).  ( / ^ \ 

Beyond  (39  M.)  Newark,  the  seat  of  I^elaware  College  (1*20 
students),  the  train  crosses  the  famous  Mason  ^ Dixon's  Line  (p.f291) 
and  enters  Maryland  (‘Old  Line  State’).  Near  (51  M.)  North-East  wq 
see  Chesaieake  Bay  (p.  306)  to  the  left.  — About  4 M.  to  tby  N.W. 
(railway)  of  (59  M.)  Perryville  is  Port  Deposit  (Falls  Ho.,  $2)  on  the 
Susquehanna,  with  the  *Jacob  Tome  Institute,  the  richest  endow- 
ment for  secondary  education  in  the  United  States.  The  chief  feature 
is  the  Boys"  Boarding  School,  which  is  admirably  equipped  in  every 
way,  but  there  are  also  various  other  schools  and  a kindergarten.  ■ — 
At  (61  M.)  Havre-de- Grace  we  cross  the  wide  Susquehanna,  which 
here  enters  the  head  of  Chesapeake  Bay.  Farther  on  we  cross  several 
wide  shallow  rivers  or  arms  of  the  Bay. 

96  M.  Baltimore  (Union  Station),  see  below. 


41.  Baltimore.*^ 

Railway  Stations.  Union  or  Charles  Street  Station  (PI.  C,  D,  2,3),  for 
the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  and  its  branches,  inch  the  N.  Central  and  Bal. 
& Pot.  R.  R.,  and  also  for  the  Western  Maryland  R.  R. ; Camden  Station  (PI 
C,  5,  6),  Camden  St.,  for  the  B.  & 0.  lines ^ Mt.  Royal  Station  (PI.  C,  3),  cor. 
Mt.  Royal  Ave.  and  Cathedral  St.,  also  for  B.  & 0.  trains  (comp.  p.  306): 
Calvert  St.  Station  (PI.  D,  4),  for  trains  of  the  Northern  Central  and  Balti- 
more and  Potomac  lines  5 Hillen  St.  Station  (PI.  D,  4),  for  the  West  Mary- 
land R.  R.^  North  Avenue  Station  (PI.  C,  2),  for  local  trains  (Baltimore 
& Lehigh  R.  R.).  — Cah  to  hotel  25  c.  for  each  person. 

^Belvedere  (PI.  m ; C,  3),  S.E.  corner  of  Charles  and  Chase  Sts  , 
R.  from  $2;  "The  Stafford  (PI.  e;  C,  4),  cor.  of  Charles  and  Madison  Sts.,  R. 

c/,  C,  4),  cor.  of  Charles  and  Centre  Sts.,  from 
Rennert  (PI.  aj  C,  4),  cor.  Saratoga  & Liberty  Sts.,  R.  from 
situated  in  Eutaw  Place,  with  view, 
^272-41/2,  R.  from  $1;  Eutaw  House  (PI.  d;  C,  5),  Eutaw  St.,  $272-5: 
Albion  (PI.  g,  C 3),  a quiet  family  hotel,  $372-5:  The  Studio  (PI  k - C 3) 
cor.  Mt.  Royal  Ave.  and  Charles  St.,  R.  from  $11/2.  ’ ’ 

Restaurants.  At  the  Belvedere,  Stafford,  St.  James,  and  Rennert  Hotels, 
see  ^ove^  restaurants  at  Union  and  Camden  Stations  f Women^s  Exchange 
cor.  Charles  and  Pleasant  Sts.  (for  ladies);  Crown  Luncheon  Room,  Lexington 
St.,  frequented  by  ladies;  Kellifs  Oyster  Saloon,  9 N.  Eutaw  St. 

Tramways  (5c.)  traverse  the  chief  streets  and  run  to  various  suburbs! 

Cabs.  Within  district  bounded  by  Broadway,  North  Ave.,  Pennsylvania 
o7®*’  ^^’Ijngton  Ave.,  Cross  St.,  and  the  Harbour,  each  pers. 

25  c.  By  time  75  c.  per  hr.  To  Druid  Hill  Park,  1-2  pers.  $11/2,  3-4  pers. 

, T On  Sunday,  Feb.  7th,  1904,  while  this  edition  of  the  Handbook  was 
in  preparation,  the  financial  and  wholesale  business  quarter  of  Baltimore 
was  devastated  by  one  of  the  most  destructive  conflagrations  on  record, 
ine  lire  swept  over  an  area  of  150  acres,  destroying  buildings  and  other 
property  to  the  value  of  $ 60,000,000.  Fortunately,  no  lives  were  lost.  The 
burned  area  corresponds  pretty  closely  with  Squares  C5  and  D5  on  our 
1 Ian  01  the  city  • but  its  reconstruction  on  improved  lines  was  immed- 
iately begun. 


302  Route  41, 


BALTIMORE. 


History, 


$2.  Hacks  (with  two  horses)  50-75 c.  for  1 pers.,  each  pers.  addit.  25c., 
per  hr.  $ IV2.  Night-fares  higher. 

Theatres.  Academy  of  Music  (PI.  C,  4);  New  Maryland  Theatre^  Franklin 
St.,  between  Eutaw  and  Howard  Sts.  (PI.  0,  4)-,  Ford's  Opera  House  (PI.  C,  5)^ 
Lyceum  (PI.  C,  Holliday  Street  Theatre  (PI.  D,  5)  5 The  Lyric  (PI.  C,  3), 
opposite  Mt.  Royal  Station,  for  concerts  and  public  meetings. 

Post  Office  (PI.  D,  5),  Monument  Sq. 

British  Consul,  OilLer'i  Fraser^  412  Exchange  Place. 

Baltimore  (the  ^Monumental  City') , the  chief  city  of  Maryland 
and  on^  of  th^  great  seaports  of  America,  is  finely  situated  on  the 
broad  estuary  of  Patapsco  River^  14  M.  from  Chesapeake  Bay  (p.  306) 
and  204  M.  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The  city,  which  is  well  laid 
out  and  built  mainly  of  a cheerful  red  brick,  is  divided  into  two 
sections  by  a stream  named  Jones's  Falls,  toward  which  the  ground 
slopes  rapidly  on  either  side.  In  1900  Baltimore  contained  508,957 
inhabitants.  The  Roman  Catholic  Archbishop  of  Baltimore  (Card, 
(ribbons)  is  Primate  in  the  United  States. 

Baltimore  was  first  laid  out  as  a town  in  1729,  and  received  its  name 
from  the  title  of  the  Barons  of  Baltimore  (Co.  Longford,  Ireland),  founders 
and  proprietaries  of  the  Maryland  Colony.  In  1780  it  had  grown  sufficiently 
in  importance  to  be  made  a port  of  entry,  and  it  was  incorporated  as  a 
city  in  1796.  After  the  conclusion  of  the  war  of  1861-65  its  population 
rapidly  increased,  and  of  late  years  several  populous  suburbs  have  been 
included  in  its  limits.  Baltimore  has  been  in  one  respect  more  fortunate 
than  other  cities  of  the  Southern  States.  During  the  War  of  Independence 
it  was  threatened,  but  not  attacked;  in  the  war  with  Great  Britain  in  1814 
it  successfully  resisted  a combined  attack  by  water  and  land;  and  in  the 
war  between  the  States  it  lay  outside  the  area  of  actual  combat.  Its  history 
is,  therefore,  an  almost  unbroken  chronicle  of  peace  and  prosperity.  For 
the  fire  of  1904,  see  p.  301  (footnote).  — Dr.  Holmes  has  remarked  that 
three  short  American  poems,  each  the  best  of  its  kind,  were  all  written 
at  Baltimore:  viz.  Poe’s  ‘Raven’,  Randall’s  ‘Maryland,  my  Maryland’,  and 
Key’s  ‘Star  Spangled  Banner’.  The  last  was  written  in  1814,  while  its 
author  was  a prisoner  on  one  of  the  British  ships  bombarding  Fort  Mc- 
Henry (p.  306).  Jerome  Bonaparte,  brother  of  Napoleon  I.,  married  a Miss 
Patterson  of  Baltimore,  and  their  descendants  still  live  in  the  city. 

The  total  value  of  the  manufactures  of  Baltimore  in  1900  was  $ 161,250,000 
(32,250,000?.),  in  the  production  of  which  79,000  hands  were  engaged.  It 
is  the  chief  seat  of  the  canning  industry  of  the  United  States,  the  materials 
being  the  famous  oysters  of  Chesapeake  Bay  and  fruits  from  its  shores. 
The  annual  product  is  50,000,000  cans,  and  about  15,000  hands  are  em- 
ployed in  this  industry.  Iron,  steel,  and  copper  are  produced;  and  the 
Bessemer  Steel  Works  at  Sparrow's  Point  (9  M.  from  Baltimore)  have  a 
daily  capacity  of  2000  tons.  The  cotton-duck  mills  in  and  near  Baltimore 
run  150,000  spindles,  employ  about  6000  hands,  and  produce  three-fourths  of 
the  sail-duck  made  in  the  United  States.  In  brick-making  Baltimore  ranks 
fourth  among  American  cities,  producing  annually  150,000,(X)0.  Next  to 
New  York  it  is  the  largest  grain-market  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  its  annual 
receipts  being  50-70  million  bushels.  The  value  of  the  exports  of  Balti- 
more in  1903  was  $ 84,347,2^8.  In  1901  its  harbour  was  entered  and  cleared 
by  1468  sea-going  vessels  of  2,795,962  tons’  burden  (besides  3770  coasters). 

The  water-supply  of  Baltimore  is  furnished  by  the  Gunpowder  River 
and  Jones's  Falls,  and  is  stored  in  8 reservoirs  with  an  aggregate  capa- 
city of  2275  million  gallons,  capable  of  a daily  supply  of  300  million  gal- 
lons, the  daily  consumption  being  175  millions.  The  water  from  Gunpow- 
der River  is  brought  through  a tunnel  almost  7 M.  long. 

Before  the  days  of  railway- transportation  Baltimore  was  the  prin- 
cipal centre  for  the  trade  with  the  West,  the  produce  from  which  was 
carried  in  huge  ‘Conestoga’  wagons  across  the  mountains  and  over  the 


Wallen  Collection. 


BALTIMORE. 


41,  Route.  303 


national  turnpike  to  this  city.  As  curious  relics  of  that  period  there 
still  remain  in  the  older  portion  of  the  city,  near  Jones’s  Falls,  in  a 
neighbourhood  locally  known  as  ‘Old  Town’,  a few  old  inns  or  taverns 
with  spacious  yards  attached,  where  stabling  was  found  for  these  wagons 
and  their  long  teams  of  mules.  Though  now  falling  into  decay,,  they  pre- 
serve the  type  of  the  old-fashioned  post-houses.  For  visiting  /th/bni,  alnd  a 
few  quaint  streets  containing  houses  characteristic  of  the  last  ceiitury  the 
guidance  of  a resident  is  desirable.  ' , 


The  natural  centre  for  the  visitor  to  Baltimore  is  *Mt.  Yernioni 
Place  (PI,  0,4),  a small  square,  prettily  laid  out  and  suggesting 
Paris  in  its  tasteful  monuments  and  surrounding  buildings.  An  the 
middle  rises  the  Washington  Monument  (PI.  C,  4),  a column  130  ft. 
high,  resting  on  a base  35  ft.  in  height  and  surmounted  by  a colossal 
statue  of  George  Washington.  The  *View  from  the  top  (open  from 
9 a.m.  till  5 p.m. ; adm.  15  c.)  forms  the  best  introduction  to  the  city. 

^ The  monument  stands  at  the  intersection  of  Charles  St.  (p.  304)  run- 
Monument  St.,  running  E.  and  W.  To  the  S.  lies 
the  harboun  The  dark-grey  building  to  the  E.,  just  beyond  the  railway, 
13  the^ao;(Pl.  D,4).  Johns  Hopkins  Hospital  (p.  305)  is  conspicuous  to  the  E. 

The  other  monuments  in  the  square  include  ^‘Bronzes  of  Peace,  War 
Force,  Orte  and  a Lion,  by  Barye  (p.  304)^  a statue  of  Chief  Justice 
ianey  (p.  oOg,  by  Rinehart;  a statue  of  Peabody  (see  below),  by  Story  (a 
replica  of  the  one  in  London)^  a statue  of  John  Eager  Howard  by  Frimiet  • 
and  a ligure  of  Military  Courage,  by  Dubois. 

At  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  square  is  the  handsome  Mt.  Vernon 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  (PI.  C,  4).  At  the  S.E.  corner  of  the 
square  stands  the  * Peabody  Institute  (PI.  C,  4),  founded  and 
endowed  by  Mr.  George  Peabody  (p.  123),  for  the  encoaragement  of 
science,  art,  and  general  knowledge. 

The  (9-10.30),  on  the  groundfloor,  contains  150,000  well-selected 

vols.  ^ the  Reading  Room  is  large  and  handsome. 

The  Art  Gallery  (9-4),  on  the  first  floor,  contains  collections  of  casts 

Collection  consists  of  casts  (Nos! 
llb-139,  16d-167,  168-182)  of  the  works  of  William  H.  Rinehart  (1825-74)  a 
native  of  Maryland.  -No.  106  (Clytia)  is  an  original. 

The  institution  also  includes  a Conservatorium  of  Music. 

Also  on  the  S.  side  of  the  square  (No.  5)  is  the  house  of  Mr, 
Henry  Walters,  containing  the  celebrated  * Walters  Collection^ 
one  of  the  finest  private  collections  of  art  in  America  (open  to  the 
public,  11-4,  on  Wed.  in  Feb.,  March,  and  April,  on  Sat.  also  in 
April;  tickets  50  c.,  sold  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor,  at  the  Stafford, 
Belvedere,  and  Rennert  Hotels,  Albaugh’s  Ticket  Office,  Charles  St. 
etc.;  also  at  1113  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  Washington).  ’’ 

The  Collection  of  Paintings  (250),  in  a beautiful  gallery  lighted  from 
the  roof,  consists  mainly  of  masterpieces  of  modern  French  masters  and 
IS  remarkable  for  its  uniformly  high  rank  of  excellence,  almost  everv 
canvas  being  good  of  its  kind.  Among  the  most  noted  pictures  are  the 
lollowing:  8 (1807-74),  Lost  illusions^  n Alma  Tadema, 

Triumph  of  Titus;  -13.  /.  .8  OoroK1796-1875),  Martyrdom  of  St.  Sebastian 
canvas,  8 ft- X 4 ft.);  19.  Briton  Rivikre,  Syria  (the  Night  Watch)  • 
^4.  atlberl  Stuarl  (1755-1828),  George  Washington;  ‘32.  AlL(  Tadma, 
r (1838-74),  Hindoo  snake-charmers;  *43.  B. 

7m  (1810-35),  Cattle  drinking; 

(1814-15),  Potato  harvest;  63.  fi'f'rdme  (1824-1904),  Last  prayer  If 
Christian  martyrs;  '74.  (1798-1863),  Crucifixion;  «85!  Paul 

ZieioreeAe (1797-1856),  Hemicycle  du  Palais  des  Beaux-Arts',  a reduced  replica. 


304  Route  41. 


BALTIMORE. 


R.  C.  Cathedral. 


by  the  master's  own  brush,  of  the  mural  painting  in  the  Palais  des  Beaux- Arts 
at  Paris,  with  figures  of  great  artists  and  allegorical  figures  of  art,  etc.; 
83.  E.  van  Marcke  (d.  1891),  The  approaching  storm;  92.  J.  J.  Henner.,  Nymph; 
101.  Horace  Yernet  (1789-1863),  Italian  brigands  surprised  by  papal  troops; 
“103.  Th.  Rou^&eau  (1812-67),  Le  Givre  (winter  solitude);  *109.  G&rdme.,  The 
duel  after  the  masquerade;  111.  J.  L.  E.  Meissonier  (1816-91),  The  jovial 
trooper;  118.  Alma  Tad^ma^  A Roman  Emperor  (Claudius);  119.  A.  de  Nen- 
viUe  (1836-86),  Attack  at  dawn;  135.  Jules  Duprd  (1812-89),  Sunset;  133. 

I Jivies  ISreton.,  Returning  from  the  fields;  *141.  Millet.,  Sheepfold;  Engine 
heXacroix.,  Jesus  on,  the  Sea  of  Galilee;  *154.  Meissonier.,  ‘ISli’  (Napoleon 
on  the  netreat  ffom  Moscow);  157.  Turner.,  Grand  Canal,  Venice. 

WAfEK  Colours,  Drawings,  etc.,  in  small  rooms:  *200.  Millet,  The  An- 
gelus  (original  design  for  the  well-known  painting);  201.  Millet,  Shepherd 
at  the  fold;  208.  Rosa  Bonheur,  Andalusian  bulls;  209.  E.  Detaille,  Keady 
to  march;  212-217.  Water-colours  by  Fllix  Ziem;  221.  Meissonier,  Court- 
yard of  the  artist's  studio;  224.  Rosa  Bonheur,  Conversation;  *226.  Millet, 
The  Sower;  236.  0.  Achenhach,  Posilipo;  238.  Fred.  Walker  (1840-75),  Fish- 
market;  242.  Alex.  Bida,  Religious  fanatics;  Alma  Tadema,  245.  'Twixt 
Venus  and  Bacchus,  246.  Xanthe  and  Phaon ; 248.  Millet,  Shepherdess;  250, 
251.  Meissonier,  Portraits  of  himself. 

Hall.  *300.  W.  H.  Rinehart  ZO^),  Woman  of  Samaria;  E.  D.  Palmer, 
301.  First  Disappointment,  302.  Infant  Flora. 

The  Oriental  Room  contains  a magnificent  * Collection  of  Chinese 
and  Japanese  bronzes,  enamels,  porcelain,  ivory-carvings,  paintings,  etc. 

A room  upstairs  (not  usually  shown)  contains  the  most  extensive 
existing  collection  of  *Bronzes  and  Drawings  by  A.  L.  Barye  (1796-1875). 

The  other  treasures  of  the  collection,  many  of  them  stowed  away  in 
closed  cabinets  or  in  rooms  not  shown  to  visitors,  include  art- furniture, 
European  porcelain  and  metal-work,  mosaics,  Limoges  enamels,  and  ob- 
jects of  bric-a-brac  of  all  kinds.  The  whole  collection  is,  however,  to  be 
concentrated  in  a new  building  erecting  in  the  rear  of  Mr.  Walters'  house. 

Charles  Street  (PI.  C,  1-8),  one  of  tlie  cMef  tliorouglifares  of 
the  city,  leads  to  tbe  N.  from  tbe  Washington  Monument  past  the 
Union  Station  (PI.  C,  D,  2,  3;  p.  301),  near  which,  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  B.  & 0.  tunnel  (p.  306),  is  the  handsome  Mt.  Royal  Station 
(p.  301).  Following  Charles  St.  to  the  S.,  we  pass  (right)  the  First 
Unitarian  Church  (PI.  C,  4)  and  the  hack  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Cathedral  (PI.  C,  4),  which  faces  Cathedral  St.  It  is  surmounted 
by  a dome,  125  ft.  high,  and  contains  some  interesting  paintings. 
Three  plenary  councils  have  been  held  here.  Adjacent  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Archbishop  (p.  302). 

In  W.  Mulberry  St.,  a little  to  the  W.  of  tbe  Cathedral,  is  the  ^Enoch  Pratt 
Free  Library  (PI.  C,  4),  a white  marble  building,  with  216,000  books.  — 
At  the  corner  of  Cathedral  and  Mulberry  Sts.  is  the  Calvert  Hall  College 
(PI.  C,  4). 

At  the  corner  of  Charles  St.  and  Saratoga  St.,  to  the  right,  is  the 
Y.  M.  C.  Association  (PI.  C,  4 5 right).  Opposite  is  the  New  Mercan^ 
tile  Library  (75,000  vols.). 

In  W.  Saratoga  St.  stands  the  Athenaeum  (PI.  D,  4),  with  the  Mary- 
land Historical  Society  (10-4),  containing  a library  and  some  interesting  por- 
traits and  relics. 

In  W.  Fayette  St.,  in  the  graveyard  of  the  Westminster  Presbyterian 
Church  (PI.  C,  5),  is  the  tomb  of  Edgar  Allan  Poe  (1809-49),  with  a small 
monument.  Near  this  point,  at  the  corner  of  Lombard  and  Greene  Sts., 
is  the  University  of  Maryland  (PL  C,  5). 

The  *Lexington  Market  (PI.  C,  5),  a little  to  the  N.  of  this  point, 
should  be  visited  for  its  picturesque  illustrations  of  Southern  produce 
and  manners  (best  on  Tues.  & Frid.  mornings  and  Sat.  night). 


City  Hall. 


BALTIMORE. 


41.  Route.  305 


Farther  on  Charles  St.  passes  the  Masonic  Temple  (PI.  0,  4,  5 • 
left),  intersects  Baltimohe  Street  (PI.  A-G,  5),  the  chief  business 
street  of  the  city,  and  is  continued  to  South  Baltimore. 

In  the  meantime,  however,  we  may  follow  E.  Fayette?  S/t.  to  the 
left  to  the  Court  House  (PI.  D,  5),  a handsome  white  marble 
building,  and  the  Post  Office  (PI.  D,  5),  in  front  of  which  rises  th^ 
Battle  Monument.,  erected  in  1815  in  memory  of  the  struggles  of 
the  previous  year.  Adjacent  is  a bronze  slab,  placed  here  in  1895 
to  commemorate  the  old  Court  House,  from  the  steps  of  which  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  was  read  on  July  29th,  1776.  To  the 
E.  of  the  Post  Office  is  the  *City  Hall  (Pi.  D,  5),  a large  and  hand- 
some building,  with  a dome  260  ft.  high  (view;  open,  9-3). 

These  three  important  buildings  just  escaped  the  dre’of  1904  which 
pestroyed  the  part  of  the  city  immediately  to  the  S.  of  them  (see  p ’SOI)  — 
The  new  Federal  Buildingr,  on  the  site  of  the  old  Custom  House  (PI.  D 5) 
now  being  erected  in  Water  St.,  was  seriously  damaged  by  the  fire  ’ ’ 

A little  farther  along  E.  Fayette  St.,  just  beyond  the  stream,*  is  the 
Merchants  Shot  Tower  (PI.  D,  5),  a curious  relic  of  1828,  246  ft.  high 


A little  to  the  W.  of  Mt.  Yernon  Place,  between  Howard  St.  and 
Eutaw  St. , are  the  unpretentious  buildings  of  the  *Johns  Hopkins 
University  (PI.  C,  4;  President  Bemsen). 

This  institution,  which  forms  the  highest  expression  of  the  phenomenal 
development  of  education  in  Baltimore  since  the  Civil  War  (comp,  below) 
was  founded  in  1876  with  a legacy  of  31/2  million  dollars  (700,000  be- 
queathed by  Johns  Hopkins  (d.  1873),  a Baltimore  merchant,  and  offers  special 
advantages  for  post-graduate  work.  It  is  now  attended  by  700  students, 
three-fifths  of  whom  are  graduates  of  other  colleges  and  universities.  Its 
success  and  influence,  however,  cannot  be  measured  by  the  number  of 
its  students^  and  its  system  of  instruction,  publications,  etc.,  have  been 
of  the  greatest  importance  in  stimulating  the  higher  learning  and  original 
research.  Its  laboratories  and  other  institutions  are  well  equipped  and 
its  library  contains  110,000  volumes.  The  hall  on  the  groundfioor  con- 
tains good  portraits  of  the  president  and  professors. 


The  *J ohns  Hopkins  Hospital  (PI.  F,  4 ; tramway  via  Centre  St.), 
opened  in  1889,  is  also  due  to  the  liberality  of  Mr.  Hopkins,  who 
bequeathed  over  $ 3,000,000  (600,000^.)  for  its  foundation. 

Both  as  a scientific  and  charitable  institution,  this  hospital  is  a worthy 
pendant  to  the  University;  and  in  the  completeness  of  its  equipments  and 
excellence  of  its  system,  it  ranks  with  the  foremost  hospitals  in  the  world. 

Among  the  numerous  other  Charitable  Institutions  of  Baltimore,  many 
of  which  are  of  great  interest,  are  the  Bay  View  Asylum  or  City  Alms 
House,  for  paupers;  the  State  Blind  Asylum  (PI.  D,  2);  the  Children's  Aid 
Society;  the  City  Hospital  (PI.  D,  4);  the  Church  Home;  Si.  Joseph's  Hospital 
and  other  noble  charities  of  the  R.  C.  church;  and  Wilson  Sanitarium, 
0 M.  from  Baltimore  (p.  307),  for  affording  change  of  air  to  sick  children 
and  their  mothers  in  summer. 


The  Wells  & McComas  Monument  (PI.  E,  4),  passed  on  the  way  to  the 
Johns  Hopkins  Hospital,  is  to  the  memory  of  two  youths  who  killed  the 
Bidtish  commander,  Gen.  Ross,  at  the  battle  of  North  Point  (Sept.  12th 
1814),  and  were  themselves  killed  immediately  afterwards. 

Persons  interested  in  tbe  bigber  education  of  women  should  not 
omit  to  visit  tbe  *Woman^s  College  (PI.  D,  2),  St.  Paul  St.,  and  tbe 
*Bryn  Mawr  School  (PI.  C,  3 ; built  by  H.  B.  Marshall),  Cathedral 
St.,  two  admirable  and  well-equipped  Institutions.  The  Friends' 


Baedeker'S  United  States.,  3rd  Edit. 


20 


306  Route  4L 


BALTIMORE. 


Excursions. 


School,  in  Park  Ave.,  at  the  cor.  of  Laurens  St.  (PL  0,  3,  4),  may 
also  be  mentioned.  — The  * First  Presbyterian  Church  (PL  C,  4), 
Park  St.,  is  a good  specimen  of  Dec.  Gothic,  with  a spire  250  ft. 
high.  — T\iq  Synagogues  of  the  Baltimore  Hebrew  Congregation,  at 
the  corner  of  Robert  St.  and  Madison  Ave.  (PL  B,  2),  and  of  the 
Oheb  Shalom  Congregation,  at  the  corner  of  Eutaw  PI.  and  Lanvale 
St.  (PL  B,  3),  are  two  imposing  structures.  To  the  S.W.  of  the 
Bryn  Mawr  Sch'ool,  at  the  corner  of  Bolton  & Hoffmann  Sts.,  is  the 
Fifth  Regiment  Armoury  (PI.  C,  3). 

Baltimore  prides  itself  with  justice  on  "^Druid  Hill  Park  (PL 
A,  B,  1),  a pleasure-ground  of  about  700  acres,  which  owes  its 
beauty  in  great  part  to  the  fact  that  it  had  been  preserved  as  a private 
park  for  100  years  before  passing  into  the  hands  of  the  city.  Its  hills 
afford  beautiful  views.  Druid  Lake,  1/2  long,  is  one  of  the 
reservoirs  of  the  city  waterworks  (p.  302).  The  old  Mansion  House 
contains  a restaurant,  and  there  is  a small  zoological  collection  near 
by.  Washington,  Columbus,  Wallace  (replica  of  the  statue  at  Stir- 
ling), and  Poe  (1904)  are  commemorated  by  monuments  in  Druid 
Hill  Park.  The  Main  Entrance  may  be  reached  by  tramway  via 
Madison  Ave.  or  Druid  Hill  Ave.  Those  who  drive  should  choose 
the  route  through  *Eutaw  Place  (PL  A,  B,  2,  3). 

Clifton  Park  (PI.  G,  1),  in  the  K.E.  part  of  the  city,  contains  the  old 
mansion  of  Johns  Hopkins  (p.  305).  — Patterson  Park  (PI.  G,  5),  the  ‘lung’ 
of  the  E.  quarters  of  the  city,  contains  earthworks  thrown  up  to  defend 
the  city  against  the  British  in  1814  (p.  302).  — Greenmount  Cemetery  (PI. 
D,  E,  2,  3)  contains  the  graves  ofMme.  Patterson  Bonaparte  (d.  1879;  see 
p.  302),  Junius  Brutus  Booth  (d.  1852),  the  actor  (father  of  Edwin  Booth), 
Johns  Hopkins,  etc.  — The  best  view  of  the  water-front  is  obtained 
from  Federal  Hill  Park  (PI.  D,  6),  in  S.  Baltimore. 

The  Harbour,  3 M.  long  and  V2-"^/4  wide,  consists  of  an  outer 
bay  accessible  to  the  largest  vessels  and  an  inner  basin  for  vessels 
of  lighter  draught.  Its  entrance  is  commanded  by  Fort  McHenry 
(PL  G,  8;  electric  tramway),  which  offers  little  beyond  its  historical 
interest  (see  p.  302). 

The  elaborate  system  of  Tunnels  by  which  the  railways  traverse 
Baltimore  deserves  the  attention  of  the  engineer.  The  Pennsylvania  R.  B. 
crosses  the  city  from  E.  to  W.  by  the  Union  Tunnel  (2/3  DI.)  and  the  Balti- 
more & Potomac  Tunnel  (l^/s  M.),  with  an  open  stretch  of  2/4  M.  (containing 
the  Union  Station)  between  them.  The  Baltimore  & Ohio  Tunnel  runs  from 
N.  to  S.  (IV2  M.),  and  the  trains  passing  through  it  are  worked  by  electricity. 

Excursions  from  Baltimore. 

Chesapeake  Bay  is  the  largest  inlet  on  the  Atlantic  coast,  with  a 
length  of  200  M.  and  a breadth  of  10-20  M.  It  receives  the  waters  of  the 
Susquehanna,  Potomac,  James,  and  other  rivers,  and  is  navigable  for  the 
largest  vessels.  The  bay  is  a favourite  resort  of  sportsmen,  and  its  game 
(canvas-back  ducks,  etc.),  fish,  terrapins,  and  oysters  have  a wide  repu- 
tation. The  E.  shore  is  not  much  frequented,  but  there  are  several  sum- 
mer-resorts on  the  W.  shore,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  Bay  Ridge 
(32  M.),  with  fair  hotels  and  other  accommodation.  Tolchester  Beach  (25  M.) 
is  on  the  E.  shore.  In  summer  steamers  run  regularly  to  different  points 
in  tbe  Bay  (see  daily  papers),  and  the  visitor  is  recommended  to  make  a 
day-trip  on  one  of  these,  the  numerous  inlets  into  which  they  .penetrate 


ANNAPOLIS. 


41.  Route.  307 


with  the  mails  imparting  constant  variety  to  the  scenery.  Annapolis  {sQa.hQ'.ow) 
Old  Point  Comfort  (p.  415)  and  Norfolk  (p.  414^  ‘Bay  Line’  in  12-13  hrs.)^, 
etc.,  may  be  reached -by  steamer  on  Chesapeake  Bay.  Steamer  to  Wash- 
ington., see  p.  308. 

Lake  Poland  (225  ft.),  8 M.  to  the  N.  (N.  Cen.  R.  R.),  one  of  the  chief 
reservoirs  of  the  Baltimore  Waterworks,  is  frequently  visited^  and  Gun- 
powder River.,  another  source  of  the  water-supply,  is  also  attractive. 

At  Ellicott  City.,  15  M.  to  the  W.  of  Baltimore  (B.  & O.  R.  R.),  is  the 
large  Maryland  Hotel  Sanitarium.,  with  all  sorts  of  hydropathic,  galvanic, 
and  other  appliances  (city  office,  1221  Madison  Ave.). 

Anaong  other  favourite  resorts  of  the  Baltimoreans  are  those  in  the 
Blue  Ridge  Mts.  (see  below)  ^ and  excursions  may  also  easily  be  made  to 
Gettysburg  (p.  291),  Harper's  Ferry  (p.  328),  Washington  (p.  309),  the  Shenan- 
doah Valley  (p.  429),  etc. 

From  Baltimore  to  Cuerr?  Run,  103  M.,  Western  Maryland  Railroad 
(Hillen  St.  or  Union  Station)  in  41/4-5  hrs.  (return-fare  to  Blue  Mt.  House 
or  Gettysburg  $ 3.60).  This  line  leads  to  several  favourite  resorts  in  the 
Blue  Ridge  Mts.  and  to  Gettysburg.  — The  train  runs  to  the  N.W.  8 M, 
Mt.  Hope.,  with  a large  Retreat  for  the  Insane;  13  M.  Mt.  Wilson.,  with 
the  Sanitarium  mentioned  at  p.  305;  20  M.  Emory  Grove.,  the  junction  of 
a branch-line  to  (51  M.)  Gettysburg  (see  p.  291);  34  M.  Westminster  (TOO  ft.); 
49  M.  Bruceville  (415  ft,),  for  (17  M.)  Frederick  (p.  328).  69  M.  Blue  Ridge 
(1375  ft.),  where  the  line  crosses  the  summit  of  the  Blue  Ridge  Mts.,  is 
the  station  for  Monterey  Springs  (Hotel,  $21/2).  701/2  M.  Bue7ia  Vista.,  con- 
nected by  tramway  with  (2  M.)  Buena  Vista  Spring  Hotel.  — 71  M.  Pen-Mar 
(1200  ft.;  Pen-Mar  Ho..,  Washington  Cliff  Ho.,  Mt.  Royal  Inn,  $2;  Imperial, 
$ 11/2-2),  named  from  its  situation  on  the  boundary  between  Pen(nsylvania) 
and  Mar(yland),  is  one  of  the  most  popular  resorts  in  the  Blue  Ridge  Mts. 
A fine  view  of  the  Cumberland  and  Shenandoah  Valleys  (pp.  288,  429)  is  ob- 
tained from  (2^  M.)  -High  Rock  (2000  ft.),  and  -Mt.  Quirauk  (2500  ft.)  is 
another  good  view-point.  — 72  M.  Blue  Mountain  House  ($8-31/2),  a large 
and  excellent  hotel,  is,  perhaps,  the  best  point  for  those  who  wish  to  stay 
a few  days  in  the  neighbourhood,  being  less  invaded  by  the  excursionist 
than  Pen-Mar.  — 75  M.  Edgemont  is  the  junction  of  the  Cumberland  Valley 
branch  to  Chambersburg  (p.  292).  87  M.  Hagerstown  (p.  288)  ; 93  M.  Williams- 
port (p,  284).  — 103  M.  Cherry  Run. 

From  Baltimore  to  Harrisburg,  85  M.,  Northern  Central  R.R.  in 
21/2-31/3  hrs.  — 7 M.  Hollins;  46  M.  Hanover  Junction;  57  M.  York;  83  M. 
Bridgeport.  — 85  M.  Harrisburg,  see  p.  288. 

From  Baltimore  to  Annapolis,  Annapolis  <!t  Baltimore  Short  Line 
(26  M.)  in  1 hr.  (return-fare  $1.25,  on  Sat.  80  c.).  The  line  skirts  Chesa- 
peake Bay  (left),  crossing  several  of  its  arms.  The  intermediate  stations 
are  unimportant.  — Annapolis  may  also  be  reached  by  the  B.  & 0.  R.  R. 
(38  M. ; I-I1/4  hr.),  via  Annapolis  Junction,  or  by  the  Penn.  R.  R.  (33  M.; 
return-fare  $11/2),  with  change  of  cars  at  Odenton  or  Annapolis  Junction. 

26  M.  Annapolis  {Carvel  Hall,  from  $3;  The  Maryland,  $21/2-,  board, 
^iss  Buchanan' s,  Maryland  Ave.,  cor.  of  Harrison 
St.,  $ 2,  and  at  Mrs.  Handy's  and  Mrs.  Iglehart's,  Church  Circle),  the  quaint 
and  quiet  little  capital  of  Maryland,  with  8525  inhab.,  is  pleasantly  situated 
at  the  influx  of  the  Severn  into  Chesapeake  Bay.  It  carries  on  a con- 
smerable  trade  in  oysters.  The  traveller  is  advised  to  begin  his  visit  with 
the^  'Wiew  from  the  dome  (200  ft.  high)  of  the  State  House  (apply  to 
janitor),  near  the  centre  of  the  town.  The  Senate  Room  (to  the  right  on 
scene  of  Washington’s  surrender  of  his  commission  in 
1783  and  of  the  First  Constitutional  Convention  in  1786.  In  front  of  the 
State  ^use  is  a colossal  Statue  of  Chief  Justice  Taney  {illl-^&m,  by  Rine- 
hart. To  the  left  is  a Statue  of  Gen  Be  Kalb  (1721-80).  The  Old  City  Hotel 
was  once  frequented  by  George  Washington  (adm.  on  application  to  janitor), 
borne  of  the  old  Colonial  houses  and  churches  are  interesting  (comp.  p.  xci), 
such  as  the  so-called  Richard  Carvel  House  (from  Winston  Churchill’s  novel- 
School  of  the  Sisters  of  Notre  Dame)  and  the  vine-covered  Church 
Qf  St.  Anne,  opposite  the  large  new  Post  Office.  The  chief  lion  of  Annapolis 

20* 


308  Route  42. 


ODENTON. 


is,  however,  the  "United  States  Naval  Academy,  founded  in  1845  for  the 
education  of  officers  for  the  navy,  as  West  Point  (p.  194)  was  for  army 
officers.  The  cadets,  of  whom  there  are  about  330,  are  nominated  in  the 
same  way  as  the  West  Point  cadets  and  are  under  similar  discipline.  The 
course  of  instruction  comprises  four  years  at  the  Academy  and  two  at 
sea.  Among  the  chief  points  of  interest  for  visitors  are  the  Old  Ships; 
old  Fort  Severn^  now  a gymnasium^  the  Boat  House^  with  its  rigging-loft 
ballroom;  the  Seamanship  Eouse^  with  its  models;  the  Steam  House^  for 
instruction  in  everything  connected  with  steamships ; the  Armoury^  400  ft. 
long;  the  Ship  House;  and  the  new  Cadet  Quai^ers  (the  largest  granite 
building  in  the  world),  with  mess-rooms,  etc.  The  drills,  parades,  and 
fencing  take  place  after  4 p.m.,  when  the  ‘recitations'  (classes)  end. 


42.  From  Baltimore  to  Washington. 

a.  Via,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  & Washington  Bailroad. 

43  m.  Railway  in  1-13/4  hr.  (31.20;  parlor-car  25c.).  This  forms  part 
of  the  Pennsylvania  line  from  New  York  to  Washington  (228  M.;  express 
in  5-8  hrs.,  36.50;  sleeper  32,  parlor-car  31-25). 

The  trains  start  from  the  Calvert  and  Union  Stations  (see  p.  301) 
and  pass  below  the  N.W.  quarters  of  the  city  by  a tunnel  IV3  M. 
long.  19  M.  Odenton  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (14  M.)  Annapolis 
(p.  307)  and  (18  M.)  Bay  Ridge  (p.  306).  4OV2M.  Navy  Yard  (p.  323). 
In  approaching  Washington  we  thread  a tunnel  300  yds.  long.  Fine 
view  of  the  Capitol  to  the  right. 

43  M.  Washington,  see  p.  309. 

b.  Yik  Baltimore  & Ohio  Bailroad  (‘Boyal  Blue  Line’). 

40  M.  Railway  in  3/4-I3/4  Ju*,  (fares  as  above).  Express  from  New  York 
n 5-5V2  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

Baltimore^  seep.  301.  At  (9  M.)  Relay  Station  the  train  crosses 
the  fine  Washington  Viaduct,  the  oldest  railway-bridge  of  stone  in 
America,  over  the  Patapsco  River.  From  (18  M.)  Annapolis  Junction 
a line  runs  to  (20  M.)  Annapolis  (p.  307).  34  M.  Hyattsville. 

40  M.  Washington,  see  p.  309. 

c.  By  Water. 

Steamers  of  the  Wee7ns  Steamboat  Co.  leave  Pier  9,  Light  St.,  Balti- 
more, on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  & Sat.  at  5p.m.,  and  reach  Washington  (7th  St. 
Wharf)  on  the  following  days  at  11  p.m.  (fare  32;  stateroom  3IV2-2V2; 
meals  50  c.  each). 

The  steamers  ply  down  Chesapeake  Bay  (p.  306)  and  up  the 
Potomac  (p.  310),  calling  at  many  small  stations.  Among  the  places 
passed  after  rounding  Point  Lookout  (right)  and  entering  the  river 
are  St.  Marys  City  (r.),  the  landing-place  of  Leonard  Calvert,  first 
Governor  of  Maryland,  in  1634;  Wakefield  (left) , the  birthplace  of 
George  Washington  (1732-99),  with  a monument  erected  in  1897; 
Mathias  Point  (1  ),  heavily  fortified  by  the  Confederates  in  the  Civil 
War ; Indian  Head,  with  Government  proving  ground  for  heavy  ord- 
nance ; Mt.  Vernon  (p.  325) ; and  Alexandria  (p.  325).  The  trip  is, 
perhaps,  better  made  in  the  reverse  direction,  when  these  points  of 
historic  interest  are  passed  by  daylight.  — Washington,  see  p.  309. 


.BaOtlTnorp 


Nalioaal 

^Cemetery 


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309 


43.  Washington. 


s-ifo:  inirarif;  ViS; 

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WeTAViti:l%:  from® 

vania  Aye.  and  16th  St.,  ? 3,  E.’  from  3 1 Smsconi  fPI  V P p“lh 
Ive  l2v‘4  E NatIok^  (pf  nVE’ij’  Penn’ 

H L , $ 4 si  JaS^s  fPl  ’o  Tlf  P^"!'  “5  '^-  3).  nth  atd 

Hotel  (PI  x-D  3)  oor  o/p^nii^if k $1;  La  Fetra’s  Temperance 

Ai_„  ^ ^ bts.,  nnpreteiidine'  S1V9-2  P from d 

Famt7y  Hotels  and  Boarding  Houses  ($10-20  a week') 

slSSsa» 

l5S,€igl»Sr£££»i 

,.A|t?7£<r  X"  S.i"S5S‘.K£'  ■'“•”>  “*  »”“■”• 

S.squarL^wf  afnthTfT2V6“a“^^^  25c.,  each  addit. 

35c.'’Two!hor/e  Hacks;  14'’pfr's  ^p?r  tr  “h/s h 
Mington  $5,  Solders’  BoZ  35’,  ^Oreat  mk  'of  PolZlac  320 

Oia  flirV‘^c®:^n.Tn^'|2(f  « f (P.  414), 

frol  7tL)t.  Wharrto^lfjLl?f;,f;:T25?>a'r^’irc“) 

paitment  f^Rlqt  1«7  G St.,  opposite  the  Treasu^rDe- 

paitment  (p  319),  daily,  including  Sun.,  at  10  a.m  and  2p.m.  ffare  50  c 1 

Gallery,  see  p ^324*ron^Tlinrs  -P’  Waggaman''s  Private 

charity  : tickets  at  Til?  p1  ^^'^5  fee  50c.,  devoted  to 

luy  , tickets  at  lllo  Pennsylvania  Ave.^  free  on  Sunday  p.m.). 


310  Route  43. 


WASHINGTON. 


History. 


Clubs.  Metropolitan  (PL  C,  3)^  Army  d:  Navy,  16221  St.  -,  Cosmos  (scientific^ 
PI  D 3)*  University ; Gridiron  Club;  Washington,  for  ladies,  1710  i St. 

General  Post  OtTice  (PI.  D,  3),  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  between  11th  and 
12tb  Sts* 

British  Embassy  (PI.  C,  2),  Connecticut  Ave.  ^ Sir  Henry  Durand,  G.  C. 
M.  G.,  K.  C.  B.,  Ambassador. 

• Note  Visitors  will  find  all  the  official  addresses  and  much  miscellan- 
eous information  of  a useful  nature  in  the  Congressional  Directory  (35  c.)* 

Tlie  City  of  Washington,  the  capital  of  the  United  States,  lies 
on  tlie  left  bank  of  the  Potomac,  at  the  confluence  of  the  main  stream 
with  the  E.  branch,  156  M.  from  Chesapeake  Bay  and  185  M.  from 
the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  covers  an  area  of  about  10  sq.  M.,  and  in 
1900  had  218,196  inhab.  (with  Georgetown,  232,745).  The  city  is 
in  many  respects  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  United  States, 
being  finely  laid  out,  with  wide  asphalted  streets,  opening  up 
vistas  of  handsome  public  buildings,  monuments,  or  leafy  squares, 
with  the  Capitol  and  the  Washington  Monument  dominating  the 
entire  view.  Its  plan  may  be  described  as  that  of  a wheel  laid  on  a 
gridiron,  the  rectangular  arrangement  of  the  streets  having  superim- 
posed upon  it  a system  of  radiating  avenues,  lined  with  trees  and 
named  for  the  different  states  of  the  Union.  The  streets  running  N. 
and  S.  are  numbered,  those  running  E.  and  W.  are  named  by  the 
letters  of  the  alphabet.  The  Circles  formed  by  the  intersection  of 
the  streets  and  avenues  are  one  of  the  most  charming  features  of  the 
city.  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  between  the  Capitol  and  the  White 
House  (a  distance  of  11/3  M.),  is  the  chief  thoroughfare,  and  other 
important  business-streets  are  7th  St.,  14th  St.,  9th  St.,  and  F St. 
Among  the  finest  residence-streets  are  *New  Hampshire  Avenue, 
’^‘Massachusetts  Ave.,  Vermont  Ave.,  Connecticut  Ave.,  16th  St. 

Tbe  present  site  of  the  national  capital  of  the  United  States  was 
selected  in  1790,  mainly  through  the  agency  of  George  Washington and 
the  Federal  District  of  Columbia,  100  sq.  M.  in  area,  was  ^t  apart  for 
this  purpose,  on  territory  ceded  by  Maryland  and  Virginia  Jhe  Virginia 
portion  of  the  district  was,  however,  retroceded  in  nn  wn! 

area  of  the  District  of  Columbia  is  65  sq.  M.  Its  populaUon  in  ^^00  was 
278  718  (92,000  coloured).  The  district  is  ruled  directly  by  the  President 
and  Congress,  through  a board  of  Commissioners  appointed  under  an  act 
of  1874:  and  its  inhabitants  belong  to  no  state  and 

in  national  or  local  government.  The  plan  of  the  city  of  Washington  was 
due  to  Maior  V Enfant,  a French  officer  of  engineers^  and  the  intention 
w^as  to  make  the  Capitol  (see  p.  311)  its.  centre,  with  streets 
radiating  from  it  in  all  directions.  It  was  at  first  Proposed  to  call  it 
Federal  City,  but  this  name  was  changed  to  Washington  iii  iiyi. 

The  foundation-stone  of  the  Capitol  was  laid 
government  was  removed  to  Washington  in  1£00^ 

received  its  charter.  In  1814  the  city  was  ^^ken  by  the  British  who 
burned  the  Capitol.  In  1810  the  population  was  8x08;  in  1840 
23,364;  and  in  1890  it  was  188,932.  In  1871  the  city  was  still  in  a very 
backward  condition-,  but  the  substitution  in  that  year  ^f  a territorial  to 
a municipal  government  inaugurated  a series  of  reforms,  which  eempiet^y 
revolutionized  the  appearance  of  the  city  and  left  it  one  of  the  . 

fortable  and  beautiful  in  the  world.  The  com  merce  and  ^ 

Washington  are  unimportant,  and  its  prosperity  depends  on  i^ 
the  seat  of  Congress  and  the  Government  Offi  these 

40,000  army  and  navy  officers  and  civil  servants  in  Washinglon, 


Capitol. 


WASHINGTON. 


43.  Route.  3ll 


“ '*/!?  proportion  of  tte  population.  It  is  empliati- 
caiiy  tne  scientific  centre  of  the  country  and  its  tpn  QPiPvi+i’flr*  o/-.  • *.• 
contain  WO  zneznbers.  The  sobriquet  It  ‘Ci?y  of  Magnmeenf  DiS^^^ 
applied  to  Washington  when  its  framework  seemed  unnecessarily  large 
for  its  growth,  is  still  deseryed,  perhaps,  for  the  width  of  its  streets  and 
the  spaciousness  of  its  parks  and  squares.  streets  and 

whirh^^pt^^«®f  Washington  is  during  the  sitting  of  Congress 

vears*^  and  tHl  “"“i  ‘o  “arch  4th  in  the  odd-numbered 

till  June,  July  or  later  in  the  even-numbered  years.  The  citv 
f*  • advantage  in  May  or  October.  Ih  summer  fjulv^ 

deserted  by  many  of  its  inhabitants.  The  Public 

attendants  will  show  on  application  any  rooms  not  actually  occupied 

I T""?  on  ^ Wll  90  ft.  above  the 

level  of  the  Potomac,  dominates  the  entire  city  with  its  soarinedome 
and  ranks  among  the  most  beautiful  buildings  in  the  world.  It  is 
r,f  “‘1 121-324ft.  wide,  and  consists  of  a main  edifice 

ol  sandstone,  painted  white,  and  of  two  wings  of  white  marble.  It 
covers  an  area  of  3'/2  acres.  The  main  building,  with  its  original 
low-crowned  aome,  was  completed  in  1827;  the  wings  and  the  new 
iron  Dome  were  added  in  1851-66.  Numerous  architects  have  been 
erapl^ed  on  the  building,  of  whom  it  may  be  enough  to  mention  Mr 
I.  U.Waher,  designer  of  the  extensions  and  the  dome.  The  general 
style  IS  classic,  with  Corinthian  details.  The  principal  fafade  looks 
'“y  "'as  expected  to  spread  in  that  direction, 
u id  the  Capitol  thus  turns  its  back  upon  the  main  part  of  the  citv 
government  buildings.  A fine  marble  ^Terrace 
fvie^  j,  ft.  long,  approached  by  two  broad  flights  of  steps  has 
ItpTv’  I®®".  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Capitol  and  adds 

l6Si/'^frb-\  • "io"'  of  the  building.  The  dome,  which  is 

19i/'i  b-  by  a figure  of  Liberty,  by  Crawford, 

19  k ft-  high  (comp.  p.  316).  The  total  cost  of  the  building  up  to  the 
present  time  has  been  $ 16,000,000  (3,200,000^ ) ^ 

nut  SO  acres  in  extent,  laid 

uort,^/  xn  the  plaza  on  the  E.  side,  opposite  the  central 

1 rtico,  IS  a colossal  Statue  of  George  Washington,  by  Oreenough. 
entJuc  or  East  iiapade  IS  preceded  by  three  porticos,  the  main 

th^  TJtl  J 1 ® portico  is 

lift  fs  thp™D  America,  a marble  group  by  Greenough;  to  the 

if  tb  ! of  America,  a figure  of  Columbus  by  Persieo. 

b V Dtrriu  ^ of  America, 

ufp^Tf  ’ alcove  the  N.  portico  is  a group  re- 

presenting the  Civilization  of  the  United  States,  by  Crawford  ^The 

ZT:T:'  of  the  United  s’tatJs  take  place  on 

the  broad  steps  in  front  of  the  main  doorway.  ^ 

*£ro«"  /”,Va«’kdo™%rw-1i  per  hr.).  The  beautiful 

walls  are  adorned”  w-'th®  diameter  and  180  ft.  high.  The 

left):  1 (to  tberight)  Lan®dtg\"/?iSLr;ri^^^^^ 


312  Route  43. 


WASHINGTON. 


Capitol, 


barkation  of  the  Pilgrims  at  Delftbaven  in  1620,  by  Weir;  3.  Wasbington 
resigning  bis  commission  at  Annapolis  in  1783,  by  Trumlull;  4.  Surrender 
of  Cornwallis  in  1781,  by  Trumbull;  5.  Surrender  ofBurgoyne  at  Saratoga 
in  1777,  by  Trumbull;  6.  Signing  tbe  Declaration  of  Independence  (1776),  by 
Trumbull;  7.  Baptism  of  Pocahontas  (1613),  by  Chapman;  8.  Discovery  of 
the  Mississippi  by  De  Soto  in  1541,  by  Powell.  Above  these  paintings  is  a 
band  of  frescoes,  in  imitation  of  relief,  by  Brumidi  and  Costagini^  representing 
scenes  from  American  history  from  the  Landing  of  Columbus  to  the  Celebra- 
tion of  the  Centennial  of  Independence  at  Philadelphia.  The  ceiling  paint- 
ing, also  by  Brumidi^  depicts  the  Apotheosis  of  Washington,  with  figures  of 
Liberty,  Victory,  the  13  Original  States,  and  other  allegorical  groups.  The 
reliefs  above  the  doors  represent  the  Landing  of  the  Pilgrims,  Penn's 
Treaty  with  the  Indians,  Pocahontas  and  Capt.  Smith,  and  Daniel  Boone 
and  the  Indians.  The  Rotunda  also  contains  statues  of  Lincoln  (by  Miss 
Ream,^  now  Mrs,  Hoxie)^  Jefferson  (by  David  d"' Angers).,  Hamilton  (by  Stone)., 
Grant  (by  Simmons).,  and  E.  D.  Baker  (by  Stone).  — A staircase  at  the 
N.W.  corner  of  the  Kotunda  ascends  to  the  Whispering  Gallery.,  in  the 
interior  of  the  dome,  and  to  the  lantern  on  the  top  of  the  dome  (268V2  ft  ), 
which  commands  a splendid  *View  of  Washington.  Pennsylvania  Avenue 
(r.)  and  Maryland  Avenue  (1.)  diverge  like  the  spokes  of  a fan,  and  be- 
tween them  is  the  Mall , a broad  enclosure  containing  the  Smithsonian 
and  other  public  institutions,  with  the  tall  Washington  Monument  towering 
above  all.  The  Pension  Ofiice  is  conspicuous  to  the  H.W.  and  the  Post 
Office  is  prominent  on  the  left  side  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  The  White 
House  is  almost  concealed  by  the  Treasury  (at  the  end  of  Pennsylvania 
Ave.).  — The  door  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Rotunda  leads  to  the  rooms 
formerly  occupied  by  the  Congressional  Library  (p.  313). 

The  door  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Kotunda  leads  to  the  Old  Hall  of 
Representatives,  now  the  * National  Hall  of  Statuary,  a semicircular 
apartment,  containing  statues  of  eminent  Americans,  each  State  being 
allowed  to  send  ‘effigies  of  two  of  her  chosen  sons’.  There  are  also  a 
statue  of  Washington  (cast  of  HoudoiTs  statue,  p.  409) , a bronze  bust  of 
Washington  presented  in  1904  by  the  Count  de  Kochanibeau,  the  Marquis 
de  Lafayette,  and  other  Frenchmen,  and  a few  portraits.  The  allegorical 
Clock  is  by  Framoni.  A brass  plate  in  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  floor  marks 
the  spot  where  John  Quincy  Adams  fell  on  Feb.  21st,  1848,  two  days  before 
his  death.  This  room  has  some  curious  ‘whispering  gallery’  properties, 
which,  however,  require  the  aid  of  an  habitue  to  discover. 

Leaving  the  Statuary  Hail  by  the  corridor  on  its  S.  side,  we  next 
enter  the  wing  devoted  to  the  House  of  Representatives. 

The  Hall  of  Representatives  (open  to  visitors  before  noon,  when  the 
House  meets ^ gj-lleries  open  at  all  times),  occupying  the  centre  of  this 
wing,  is  a plain  and  business-like  apartment,  139  ft.  long,  93  ft.  wide,  and 
38  ft.  high.  It  contains  desks  for  352  members  and  4 delegates.  To  the 
right  of  the  Speaker  is  the  pedestal  on  which  the  mace  is  placed  when 
the  House  is  called  to  order.  To  the  right  and  left  are  portraits  of  Wash- 
ington (by  Vanderlyn)  and  Lafayette  (by  Ary  Schemer).  On  the  same  wall 
is  a fresco  by  Brumidi  (Washington  demanding  the  surrender  of  Cornwallis 
at  Yorktown).  Like  the  House  of  Commons,  the  hall  is  lighted  through 
glass-panels  in  the  ceiling.  The  Galleries  round  the  Hall  can  seat  2500 
IDeople;  different  sections  are  reserved  for  ladies  (with  their  escorts), 
gentlemen,  the  press,  the  diplomatic  corps,  and  the  families  of  members 
and  officials.  The  general  proceedings  of  the  House  are  roughly  similar 
to  those  of  the  House  of  Commons,  but  the  noise  and  confusion  are 
greater  and  it  is  a rare  thing  for  a speaker  to  receive  the  attention  of 
the  whole  House.  The  Republicans  atfect  one  side  of  the  hall,  and  the 
Democrats  the  other.  The  Speaker  has  no  distinguishing  dress,  and 
members  do  not  wear  their  hats  in  the  House.  A novel  feature  to  the 
European  visitor  is  the  presence  in  the  House  of  a number  of  page-boys, 
who  are  summoned  by  the  clapping  of  hands. 

The  Hall  is  surrounded  with  corridors , affording  access  to  Committee 
Rooms  (many  of  them  with  frescoes)  and  the  Rooms  of  Officials. 

On  the  E.  and  W.  are  Staircases  ascending  to  the  Galleries.  On  the 


Congress  Library,  WASHINGTON. 


43,  Route.  313 


^ painting,  by  Carpenter,  of  the  Signing  of 
CabiLt  rSent  portraits  of  Lincoln  and  his 

of -r  3&63);  at  its  foot  IS  a statue  of  Jefferson,  hy  Powers- 

and  at  its  head  are  portraits  ofPIenry  Clay  and  others.  On  theV  stair’ 
® painting  of  Westward  Ho,  with  a view  of  the  Golden 

Gate,  by  below;  at  the  foot  of  the ’staircase  Is  a bronze  ^ 

The  ^ portrait  of  Chief  Justice  Marshall^ 

flnnT.  ^ contains  various  Committee  Rooms.  - The  basement- 

of  Representatives,  contains  a good  RestanrarJ 
0^  the  Rotunda  (p.  311}  leads  into  the  N wino- 
Capitol  (see  p.  311),  on  the  right  (E.)  side  of  which  is  the 
?T  ^ourt  Roona,  formerly  the  Senate  Chamber  (open  to  visitors)  The 

Y'J:  ^^Prerne  Court  consists  of  a Chief  Justice  (Hon.  M.  W Fuller)  and 
^ssociate  Justices.  Sessions  from  Oct.  to  May  (12-4).  The  judges  wear 
obes  but  no  wigs,  the  counsel  neither  gowns  nor  wigs  — In  the  Robinry 
Roorn  ^ve  portraits  of  former  Chief  Justices.  ^ ^ 

through  a corridor  leading  to  the  Senate  Wing  The 
Senate  Chamber  is  smaller  (113ft.  long,  801t.  wide,  and  36ft  WaM  and 
moie  oinate  th^n  the  House  of  Representatives.  The  general  arrangements 

meel%Tnoof'?il®Vv^ 

. ^ice-President  of  the  United  States  is  the  official  Pre- 
Pi?pfi?^a^  niches  in  the  walls  contain  busts  of  all  the  Vice- 

Presidents.  The  Senators  are  10  in  number.  — To  the  N of  thp  Spmfp 
^e  Room,  richly  adorned  with  frescoes  and  gilding:  the  Senators'' 

Reception  Hall  or  Marble  Room;  and  the  Vicer Presidents  Rnn'^n  tfui.  o e 
portrait  of  Washington,  by  Rembrandt  Peale.  When  the  Senate ’is  in  session^ 
visi.ors  to  these  rooms  require  the  permission  of  a Senator:  at  other  times 

Sera^^of^thl%pl^Tp'^  the  messengers  if  closed. 

At  theVooVof  th^?!  Rooms  are  also  handsomely  decorated.  — 

me  loot  ot  the  E.  Staircase,  ascending  to  the  Galleries  is  a statup  of 
ranklm  by  Powers;  on  the  wall  is  Perry's  Victory  on  Lake  Erie  riSI3t 

and'^cfav  *’“irfhp^f'^T^f’tif‘  w®  ^‘'®  of  Webster,  Calhoun; 

* At  the  foot  of  the  IF.  Staircase  is  a statue  ot  John  Hancock 

Arthe%Tad  nVm*  of  Chapultepec,  Mexico  (1847),  by 

C W Pea/e  ^ Thp^  ^ * a'®  is  a portrait  of  Washington  by 

o.  w.  Peale.  The  rooms  and  corridors  of  the  Upper  Floor  contair  varimi« 
portraits  and  paintings.  In  the  basement  is  a RestaurZt  ' 

ihe  •.erow^e  Doors  of  the  Senate  Wing,  opening  on  the  KE  r^ortipn 
SBlsement^oftbe  C^^  Ristory,  in  relief,  by  Craw/ord,'  ’ 

some  of  the  Committee  Rooms  are  also  handsomely  decorated 
ThT^iZ  ^ A a small  vestibule,  reached  from  the  oXidTbv 

We  may  leave  the  building  by  the  W.  terrace  and  steps  (see  p/Slt). 

rpi  "p  Capitol  stands  the  ^library  of  Congress 

ATfi  ft  1 ’ structure  in  the  Italian  Renaissance  style, 

was  accomplished  by  Gen.  T.  L.  Casev 
Chief  of  Engineers  U.  S.  A.,  with  the  aid  of  Bernard  R.  Green, 

A.  B.  Casey,  J L.  Smithmeyer,  and  P.  J.  Peltz.  It  is  in  the  form 
of  a quadrangle,  enclosing  four  courts  and  a central  rotunda  sur- 

tTe’ W td  ' " main  entrance,  on 

erriJ;  ^ “^ht  of  steps  and  a granite 

terrace,  against  the  retarning  wall  of  which  is  an  effective  fountain 


314  Route  43. 


WASHINGTON.  Congress  Library. 


by  R.  Hinton  Perry.  At  each  corner  and  in  the  middle  of  tbe  W. 
and  E.  facades  are  projecting  pavilions.  Tbe  sculptural  adornment 
of  tbe  ornate  W.  facade  includes  a series  of  ethnological  beads  (over 
tbe  windows),  busts  of  Demostbenes , Emerson,  Irving,  Goetbe, 
Franklin,  Macaulay,  Hawthorne,  Scott,  and  Dante  (portico) , and 
groups  representing  Literature,  Art,  and  Science  (spandrels  of  the 
entrance-porch).  Tbe  three  bronze  doors  represent  Printing  (centre), 
Tradition  (left),  and  Writing  (right),  tbe  first  by  Fred.  Macmonnies^ 
the  others  by  Olin  L.  Warner.  — The  library  can  accommodate  4 
or  5 million  vols.,  and  at  present  contains  over  1,100,000,  besides 
100,000  MSS.,  69,000  maps,  366,000  pieces  of  music,  and  142,000 
prints.  Its  use  is  free  to  all  adults,  but  none  but  members  of 
Congress  and  a few  privileged  officials  have  the  right  to  take  books 
out  of  the  building.  The  staff  numbers  300.  The  building  is  open 
to  visitors  from  9 a.m.  to  10  p.m.  Descriptive  handbooks  at  the 
entrance  (10  and  25  c.).  Restaurant  in  the  attic  of  the  pavilion 
(elevator). 

The  ’‘Interior  of  the  Congressional  Library  is  sumptuously  adorned 
with  painting,  sculpture,  coloured  marbles,  and  gilding.  These  decora- 
tions, while  very  unequal  in  merit  and  at  times  somewhat  confused  and 
over-garish,  produce  on  the  whole  a very  imposing  effect.  No  fewer  than 
fifty  American  artists  are  represented  in  the  work.  Only  a few  of  the 
numerous  paintings  can  be  mentioned  below  \ for  details  the  reader  is 
referred  to  the  works  themselves  and  to  the  special  handbooks  mentioned 
above.  The  W.  portico  opens  on  the  Main  Entrance  Hall,  constructed 
of  white  Italian  marble.  To  the  right  and  left  are  massive  marble  stair- 
cases, richly  adorned  with  sculpture  and  with  bronze  figures  as  lamp- 
bearers.  The  ceiling  of  the  Hall,  72  ft.  above  the  marble  flooring,  is 
resplendent  in  blue,  green,  and  yellow.  The  arcade  or  vestibule  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  hall  has  stucco  figures  of  Minerva  and  a coffered  ceiling 
in  white  and  gold.  The  arcade  to  the  S.  is  adorned  with  "Paintings  by 
Henry  0.  Walker.^  representing  Poetry.  In  the  N.  arcade  are  paintings  by 
C.  S.  Pearce^  representing  the  Family,  Religion,  Labour,  Study,  Recreation, 
and  Rest  as  factors  in  civilisation.  The  E.  arcade,  opening  from  the  Hall 
by  a triple  Commemorative  Arc\  contains  the  Evolution  of  the  Book,  painted 
by/.  W.  Alexander.  The  lobby  beyond,  leading  to  the  Reading  Room  (see 
below,  this  entrance  for  readers  only),  has  five  paintings  'bj  Elihu  Vedder.^ 
symbolizing  different  forms  of  Government.  To  the  left  of  the  E.  arcade 
is  the  Librarian's  Room^  with  a ceiling-painting  of  Literature  by  E.  J. 
Holslag.  — The  S.W.  Curtain  Corridor  (on  the  side  next  the  court), 
leading  to  the  S.  from  the  Entrance  Hall,  has  Greek  Heroes  by  Walter 
McEwen.  It  opens  on  the  gorgeous  House  of  Representatives  Reading 
Room.  In  the  S.W.  Pavilion  is  the  more  dignified  Senate  Reading  Room, 
opposite  which  is  the  entrance  to  the  Periodical  Reading  Room.  — The 
N.W.  Curtain  Corridor  has  paintings  of  the  Muses  by  Edw.  Simmons.  The 
N.W.  Pavilion  is  decorated  by  Dodge  and  Thompson;  it  contains  an 
interesting  exhibition  of  maps  and  charts,  continued  in  the  Map  Room. 

We  now  ascend  to  the  first  floor.  The  Corridors  above  the  arcades  of 
the  Entrance  Hall  are  adorned  with  symbolical  frescoes  of  the  Virtues  (in  a 
Pompeian  style)  by  Maynard  (N.  and  S.),  the  Senses  (on  the  ceiling)  and 
figures  of  Wisdom,  Understanding,  Knowledge,  and  Philosophy  by  Robert 
Reid  (N.),  the  Departments  of  Literature  by  Barse  (E.),  the  Graces  and 
the  Seasons  by  F.  W.  Benson  (S.),  and  the  Sciences  by  Shirlaw  (W.).  The 
other  decorations  are  also  elaborate.  — The  frescoes  in  the  S.W.  Gallery, 
by  Kenyon  Cox  ^ illustrate  the  Sciences  and  Arts,  those  in  the  S.W.  Pa- 
vilion, by  Maynard.,  illustrate  the  Discovery  and  Settlement  of  America. 
These  two  rooms,  as  well  as  the  S.  Gallery,  are  used  for  the  exhibition 


: 1.700 


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'National  Museum. 


WASHINGTON. 


43.  Route.  816 


of  etcliiugs,  engravings,  vs^oodcnts,  and  tlie  like.  Tlie  S.  Gallery  also 
contains  views  and  models  of  Washington,  past,  present,  and  future.  — The 
panels  of  Peace  and  War  in  the  N.W.  Gallery  are  by  Melchers  (Japanese 
and  Chinese  prints  5 folio  and  other  valuable  editions  of  Shakspeare; 
P>ibles^  early  American  imprints);  the  paintings  of  Art,  Literature,  Muaic, 
Science,  and  Ambition  (ceiling)  in  the  N.W,  Pavilion  are  by  W.  L.  Dodge 
(historical  relics,  autographs,  etc.);  the  Elements  in  the  S-E.  Pavilion  are 
by  R.  L.  Dodge  and  E.  E.  Qarnsey ; ihe  Seals  of  the  U.  S.  in  the  N.E. 
Pavilion  are  by  Garnsey  and  Van  Ingen. 

From  the  E.  corridor  (see  above)  a short  staircase,  the  landing  of  which 
is  adorned  with  a fine  mosaic  of  Minerva  by  Elihu  Vedder.^  ascends  to 
the  visitors’’  gallery  of  the  "Reading  Room  Rotunda,  perhaps  the  finest 
and  most  thoroughly  satisfactory  part  of  the  whole  building.  The  cham- 
ber, which  is  ICO  ft.  in  diameter  and  125  ft.  in  height,  accommodates  about 
300  readers  (British  Museum  Reading  Room  360;  Bates  Hall  at  Boston 
250-3C0).  It  is  richly  adorned  with  dark  marble  from  Tennessee,  red 
marble  from  Numidia,  and  yellow  marble  from  Siena.  The  eight  massive 
piers  are  surmounted  by  symbolical  female  figures  of  Religion  (Baur), 
History  (French),  Art  (A.  St.  Gaudens),  etc.;  and  along  the  parapet  of  the 
gallery  are  sixteen  bronze  statues  of  persons  eminent  in  the  fields  denoted 
by  the  symbolic  figures.  Among  these  are  Homer,  by  L.  St.  Gaudens, 
Shakspeare,  by  Maemonnies,  Herodotus,  by  French,  etc.  The  dome  is 
covered  with  elaborate  coffered  ornamentation  in  stucco,  and  round  its 
‘collar’  are  frescoes  by  E.  H.  Blashfield.,  representing  the  Progress  of  Civil- 
ization (best  seen  from  the  floor  of  the  reading-room).  Among  the  alleg- 
orical figures  in  this  frieze  may  be  detected  portraits  of  Ellen  Terry 
(England),  Mary  Anderson  (Middle  Ages),  and  Abraham  Lincoln  (America). 
The  inside  of  the  lantern  is  embellished  with  an  allegorical  group  of 
‘Human  Lnderstanding’,  also  by  E.  H.  Blashfield  (not  visible  from  the  gal- 
lery). The  stained-glass  windows  exhibit  combinations  of  the  arms  of  the 
Fnion  and  the  various  States.  The  clock  was  designed  by  J'o/zw 
Winding  iron  staircases  in  the  piers  ascend  to  the  lantern  and  to  an  outside 
gallery  encircling  the  rotunda  and  commanding  a beautiful  view.  — The 
reading-room  is  admirably  lighted,  and  the  arrangements  for  bringing  the 
books  from  the  ‘stacks’  to  the  readers  and  the  other  practical  equipments 
are  of  the  latest  and  best  description.  It  is  connected  with  the  Capitol  by 
a tunnel  V4  M.  long,  6 ft.  high,  and  4 ft.  wide,  by  means  of  which  a Member 
of  Congress  can  procure  a book  in  3 minutes. 

The  basement  contains  a Reading  Room  for  the  Blind  offices,  lava- 
tories, and  store-rooms. 

At  tbe  foot  of  tbe  flights  of  steps  descending  from  the  terrace 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  Capitol  is  a heroic  Statue  of  Chief  Justice 
Marshall  (1755-1835),  by  Story.  The  broad  walk  to  theN.  (r.)  leads 
to  the  Naval  or  Peace  Monument^  by  Simmons.  The  walk  to  the  S.  (1.) 
leads  to  the  Statue  of  President  Garfield  (1831-81),  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward. 

The  first  part  of  the  Reservation  is  occupied  by  the  Botanic 
Gardens  (PL  E,  E,  4;  9-6),  with  palm-houses,  conservatories,  and 
the  handsome  Bartholdi  Fountain. 

We  may  now  walk  through  the  two  small  parks  to  the  W.  of  this 
point,  cross  the  railway,  and  visit  the  building  of  the  United  States 
fish  Commission  (Pl.E,  4 ; entr.  in  6th  St. ; 9-4),  where  the  processes 
of  fish-breeding  may  be  inspected  (aquarium).  — A little  farther  to 
the  W.,  beyond  7th  St.,  stands  the  Army  Medical  Museum  (Pl.E,  4; 
9-4),  containing  a pathological  collection,  a collection  of  army 
medical  supplies,  and  a library  of  200,000  volumes.  The  exhibits 
ail  bear  labels,  and  explanatory  tablets  are  placed  at  the  entrances 
to  many  of  the  rooms.  In  the  library  are  cases  with  rare  and  old 


316  Route  43, 


WASHING-TON.  National  Museum. 


works  on  medicine,  a touch-piece  used  for  the  King’s  Evil,  and 
other  curiosities.  — Adjacent  are  monumentfj  to  Daguerre  and  to 
Dr.  Samuel  D.  Gross  (1805-84);  the  latter,  by  A.  St.  Calder,  was 
erected  hy  American  physicians  in  1897. 

Immediately  to  theW.  of  the  Medical  Museum  is  the  ^National 
Museum  (PI.  E,4),  a large  brick  building  325  ft.  square,  containing 
valuable  and  excellently  arranged  collections  of  natural  history, 
anthropology,  and  geology,  derived  mainly  from  the  scientific  opera- 
tions of  the  IT.  S.  Government.  It  is  under  the  direction  of  the 
Smithsonian  Institution  (p.  317).  Over  the  entrance  is  a group 
representing  Columbia  as  protectress  of  Science  and  Industry.  Ad- 
mission free,  9-4.30  (closed  on  Sun.). 

Department  of  Anthropology.  The  North  Hall  or  Hall  of  American 
History  (PI.  1),  which  we  lirst  enter,  is  mainly  devoted  to  a chronologically 
arranged  series  of  collections  illustrating  American  history  from  the  period 
of  discovery  to  the  present  day.  Among  the  more  interesting  of  the  per- 
sonal relics  are  those  relating  to  Washington,  Lincoln,  Franklin,  and 
Grant.  The  wall-ca'^es  are  mainly  occupied  by  musical  instruments.  Over 
the  entrance  is  a large  panel  of  Limoges  fayence,  representing  man’s 
triumphs  over  the  material  universe,  and  at  the  entrance  to  the  Rotunda 
are  two  large  vases  of  Limoges  fayence  made  to  commemorate  the  cen- 
tennial of  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  — The  Rotunda  (PI.  II)  is 
embellished  with  a fountain,  above  which  rises  the  original  model  of  the 
statue  of  Liberty  on  the  dome  of  the  Capitol  (p.  311).  Large  figures  of 
Buddha  and  Vishnu.  Case  with  Buddhistic  relics  from  Burmah^  others 
with  historical  relics  of  the  war  with  Spain  (from  Cuba  and  the  Philip- 
pines). — In  the  West  North  Range  (PI.  XI)  is  the  "Collection  of  Paint- 
ings by  George  CatUn.,  illustrating  the  mannersand  customs  of  the  North 
American  Indians.  Mr.  Catlin  spent  8 years  (i832-40)  among  the  Indians, 
visiting  48  different  tribes  and  painting  all  of  the  GOO  paintings  from  nature. 
The  floor-cases  illustrate  the  arts  and  customs  of  Ihe  Indian  tribes  between 
the  Atlantic  coast  and  the  Rocky  Mts.  — To  the  S.  lies  the  North  West 
Range  (PI.  XII),  with  interesting  exhibits  pertaining  to  the  tribes  of  the 
N.W.  coast  of  N.  America  (totem-poles,  etc.)  and  of  the  Esquimaux  on  the 
Arctic  shores.  — To  the  left  is  the  North  West  Court  (PI.  XVII),  the 
exhibits  of  which  illustrate  the  life  of  the  Pueblo  Indians  of  the  S.W.. 
(comp.  p.  318).  The  gallery  above,  entered  from  the  Rotunda,  contains  col- 
lections of  tribes  in  the  S.W.  part  of  N.  America  and  Mexico.  — The  West 
Hall  (PI.  XIII),  entered  from  the  N.W.  Range,  contains  European,  African, 
and  Asiatic  collections,  the  Japanese  and  Corean  exhibits  being  especially 
attractive.  Here  also  is  part  of  the  Glover  Collection  of  Chinese  coins. 
The  N.  Gallery  has  Polynesian  collections,  and  the  S.  Gallery  has  a col- 
lection of  religious  ceremonial  objects. 

We  now  cross  the  Rotunda  to  the  East  Hall  (PI.  VII),  which  con- 
tains collections  illustrating  human  progress  in  transportation,  electricity, 
domestic  arts,  etc.  In  the  8.E.  corner  is  a small  Restaurant.  — The  North 
East  Range  (PI.  VIII)  is  occupied  by  a very  extensive  series,  illustrating 
naval  architecture.  — The  North  East  Court  (PI.  X),  entered  from  the 
East  Hall,  is  occupied  by  the  graphic  art  exhibit.  The  gallery  contains 
collections  of  ceramics,  etc.  — The  East  North  Range  (PI.  IX)  is  used 
as  a lecture-hall.  The  walls  are  hung  with  Flemish  tapestry. 

[The  extensive  collection  of  American  antiquities  is  exhibited  in  the 
Smithsonian  building,  fir>t  floor  (see  p.  318).] 

Department  of  Biology.  This  Department  covers  the  field  of  zoology 
and  botany.  The  collections  exhibited  are  chiefly  American,  but  the 
museum  is  also  rich  in  material  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  — To 
the  S.  of  the  East  Hall  is  the  South  East  Range  (PI.  IV),  with  casts  ot 
American  fishes,  reptiles,  and  hatrachians.  — The  East  South  Ranoe 


Smithsonian  Institution.  WASHINGTON.  43.  Route.  317 

contains  an  extensive  osteologieal  collection  arranged  systemaf- 
ht  In  I , ® * Humpback  wbale,  32  felt  long,' willi 

e skeleton  inserted  in  it,  and  skeletons  of  various  other  ivhales  are 
fh?n”‘*“‘i  the  eeiiing.  Special  scries  illustrating  such  subjects  as 

of  tMth  “’sfil*  cL*’'®  *’’®  structure  and  modilications 

0 teeth  , skin  , etc.,  are  also  exhibited,  and  an  extensive  series  of  em- 
bryological  inodels.  The  collections  include  specimens  of  great  raritv 
such  as  skeletons  of  the  extinct  Arctic  Sea  Cow  from  the  Commander  Is- 
Great  Auk  from  Coast  of  Labrador,  andTe  Cig^Uc 
of  Abingdon  Island,  m the  Galapagos  Archipelago.  — The 
South  Hall  (PI.  Hi)  is  devoted  to  mammals.  The  groundfloor  is  occupied 
extensive  series  of  American  mammals,  including  well -moused 
bison,  moose,  caribou,  and  prong-horn  antelope,  with 
surroundings  A series  of  papier- 
The^Hlw  f features  of  the  collection. 

taHnn  nf  fU  ^ (entrance  from  the  Rotunda)  contains  a represen- 

Department  of  Geology,  The  South  PAMni?  •VT'\r\  i n 

are  exhibited  (a)  collections  of  rock-forming  minerairfrd  rnrtr 

L 11?  Illustrating  the  mineral  resources  of  the  United  States  Tn  tha 

ga  lery  IS  a systematic  series  of  economic  products/compriS  ores 

fpi  Vr*7ntere‘d  ®‘»-  - The  Sooth  EaIt  Coout 

InstitnHon  rPl^nl  ‘'‘®  ^Smithsonian 

institution  (PI.  D,  4;  open  free  on  weekdays,  9-4  301  a red-store 

$ 450  000  r90  ooon^^h '‘V  i“  1847-56  at  a cost  If 

In  frnu t nf  ^^6  loftiest  of  the  nine  towers  Is  145  ft.  high. 

In  front  of  it  is  a Statue  of  Prof.  Joseph  Henry  {1799-18781  the  first 

SecreLry,  Hr.  S.  V Langle? 

of  $615  000bequeathed”bv*al!*Ti'”  the  proceeds  of  a legacy 

uatural’sou  ome  dIL  If  I 

of  knowledge  among  rnen>  So  u’  ^ increase  and  diffusion 

distinguished  as  rchSt  nIver  idVi.a  T"".”’’'  Smi'hsou,  who  was 
relations  with  that  country  - and  hi<i  personal 

lishment  of  his  institution  is  “uuosed  to  he  ‘*’®  ®®'®’’- 

democratic  principles  represented'^by  the  Western  Ee|IXr  AIpoHcy 

SmifhsoilalXliuutror  *"  “ th? 


318  Boute43. 


WASHINGTON.  Washington  OhelisTc. 


of  the  Institution  is  to  encourage  research,  and  it  has  been  the  chief 
promotor  of  the  scientific  investigation  of  the  climate,  products,  and 
antiquities  of  the  United  States.  It  possesses  a library  of  250,000  vols.  (de- 
posited in  the  Library  of  Congress)  and  issues  three  series  of  publications 
(‘Contributions  to  Knowledge’,  ‘Miscellaneous  Collections’,  and  ‘Annual 
Reports’)  of  great  scientific  value.  The  Museum  issues  Reports,  Proceed- 
ings, and  Bulletins. 

The  Ground  Floor  is  devoted  to  part  of  the  exhibits  of  the  Biological 
Department  of  the  Rational  Museum  (p.  316).  The  Main  Hall  contains  a 
systematic  Collection  of  Birds  (9(X)0  specimens)  and  also  the  Collection 
of  Mollusks.  A small  room  to  the  S.,  opposite  the  entrance,  contains 
birds,  insects,  shells,  corals,  sponges,  and  minerals  arranged  for  the  study 
of  children.  — In  the  adjoining  Corridor  Hall  is  the  Collection  of  Rorth 
American  Insects,  with  exhibits  illustrating  protective  mimicry  and  kindred 
phenomena.  — The  West  Hall  contains  the  Marine  Invertebrates,  in- 
cluding the  Corals  collected  by  the  U.  S.  Exploring  Expedition  in  1838-42 
and  the  Crinoids  dredged  by  the  U.  S.  Fish  Commission  steamer  Alhatross. 
From  the  roof  hang  models  of  the  giant  squid  and  the  octopus. 

The  First  Floor  is  devoted  to  the  '^Archaeological  Collections  of  the 
Department  of  Anthropology  (p.  316),  which,  as  regards  American  anti- 
quities, are  among  the  most  extensive  in  the  world.  A number  of  ‘Cul- 
ture Regions’  are  especially  well  represented:  — 1.  Mexican  and  Central 
American  Collections^  including  numerous  casts  of  stone  monuments.  — 
2.  Miscellaneous  Collections  of  Indian  Relics , such  as  are  found  generally 
distributed  over  the  United  States  and  the  British  Possessions.  — 3.  Collections 
from  the  Mounds^  including  sculptures,  tobacco-pipes,  pottery,  and  im- 
plements ot  stone,  bone,  shell,  and  copper  in  great  variety. 

Tbe  next  part  of  the  Mall,  beyond  12tb  St.,  contains  tbe  building 
of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  (PI.  D,  4;  9-4),  which  may  be 
visited  by  those  interested  in  scientific  agriculture  and  horticulture. 
It  includes  a library,  museum,  herbarium,  and  conservatories  of 
economic  plants  (all  open  to  visitors);  and  the  grounds  in  front  of 
it  are  devoted  to  an  arboretum  arranged  by  families.  The  museum 
is  in  the  wooden  building  behind  the  main  brick  building.  To  the 
El.  of  the  main  building  is  the  Sequoia  Tree  Tower,  formed  of  a 
section  of  a huge  Sequoia  (p.  556),  which  was  26  ft.  in  diameter 
at  the  base  and  300  ft.  high. 

In  B St.,  near  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Agricultural  Grounds , is 
the*Bureau  of  Engraving  and  Printing  (PI.  D,  4),  where  the  highly 
interesting  processes  of  the  manufacture  of  paper  money,  bonds,  and 
stamps  are  shown  to  visitors  (9-11.45  and  12.30-3). 

We  have  now  reached  the  open  grounds  in  which  the  ^Washing- 
ton Obelisk  (PI.  H,  4),  a unique  monument  of  dignity  and  simpli- 
city, rears  its  lofty  form  to  the  skies. 

The  Washington  Obelisk,  a worthy  memorial  of  a great  man,  was 
began  in  1848,  abandoned  in  1855,  resamed  in  1877,  and  finished  in  1884, 
at  a total  cost  of  $1,300,000  (260,000 Z.).  It  is  constructed  of  white  Maryland 
marble  and  is  655  ft.  high,  a height  greater  than  any  other  structure  of 
masonry  in  the  world  (Philadelphia  City  Hall,  547  ft.  ^ spires  of  Cologne 
Cathedral  511  ft.).  The  walls  are  15  ft.  thick  at  the  base  and  IV2  ft.  at 
the  top.  The  pyramidal  roof  is  55  ft.  high  and  is  capped  wiih  a piece  of 
aluminium.  The  monument  is  open  from  9 to  5.30,  and  may  be  ascended 
either  by  the  900  steps  (fatiguing;  20-25  min.)  or  by  the  elevator  (8  min. ; 
free)>  which  runs  every  V2  br.  (last  ascent  at  4.30).  Stone  tablets  presented 
by  different  States  and  corporations  are  inserted  in  the  walls. 


White  House. 


WASHINGTON. 


43,  Route,  319 


The  top  commands  a magnificent  *View  of  the  city  of  Washington 
and  its  surroundings.  Arlington  (p.  325)  is  seen  to  the  E.  across  the 
Potomac.  Among  the  points  at  a little  distance  are  the  Observatory 
(p.  o23i  N.W.),  the  Soldiers’  Home  and  Howard  University  (p.  324:  N ) 
the  R.  C.  University  (p.  324;  H.E.),  and  Alexandria  (p.  325:  S.).  On  ’a 
clear  day  the  Blue  Ridge  Mts.  are  seen  to  the  the  prominent  Sugar- 

loaf  being  about  50  M.  distant. 


To  the  S.  of  the  Washington  Monument  are  the  Propagating 
Gardens  and  (^farther  off)  the  Long  Bridge  (PI.  0,  5),  over  which  the 
N.  troops  marched  into  Virginia  during  the  Civil  War.  To  the  W. 
are  the  V.  8.  Fish  Ponds  (PI.  C,  D,  4). 

We  may  now  ascend  15th  St.,  skirting  the  President's  or  Executue 
Grounds  (PL  C,  D,  3,  4;  band  in  summer)  on  the  left  and  passing 
Chasers  Theatre  ( Grand  Opera  House)  and  the  Light  Infantry  Armoury 
on  the  right.  To  the  left,  opposite  the  Regent  Hotel,  is  the  fine 
equestrian  ^Monument  of  General  Sherman  (1820-91),  by  Rohl- 
Smith,  erected  in  1903.  The  pedestal  is  embellished  with  bronze 
reliefs,  medallions,  and  figures  of  Indian  women,  and  at  the  corners 
of  the  podium  are  four  sentinels.  — To  the  N.  of  this,  opposite  F St. 
stands  the  ^Treasury  Building  (PL  D,  3;  9-2,  parties  led  round 
between  11  & 12  and  1 & 2),  an  immense  edifice,  510  ft,  long  and 
280  ft.  wide,  with  an  Ionic  colonnade  on  the  E.  front  and  porticos 
on  the  other  three  sides. 


Among  the  chief  objects  of  interest  shown  to  visitors  are  the  U.  8. 
Cash  Room.,  in  the  R.  corridor;  the  Redemption  Division.,  in  the  basement; 
the  Silver  Vaults.,  containing  bullion  and  coin  to  the  value  of  hundreds  ( f 
millions  of  dollars;  the  Portraits  of  Secretaries  of  the  Treasury  in  the  Secre- 
tary’s Department  (first  floor);  and  the  Secret  Service  Division,  W.  side  of 
2nd  floor,  with  its  collection  of  forged  money  and  portraits  of  forgers. 


In  Pennsylvania  Ave. , to  the  N.  of  the  Treasury,  stands  the 
Department  of  Justice;  and  a little  farther  to  the  N.,  at  the  corner  of 
15th  and  H Sts.,  is  the  Columbian  or  George  Washington  University 
(PL  D,  3;  1300  students).  — Following  Pennsylvania  Ave.  towards 
the  W.,  we  reach  (to  the  right)  Lafayette  Square  (PL  C,  D 3) 
with  a bronze  Statue  of  Gen.  Andrew  Jackson  (1767-1845),  by  ()lark 
Mills,  the  Rochambeau  Monument  (S.  W.),  by  F.  Hamar  (1902),  and 
the  Lafayette  Monument  (S.E.),  by  Falguiere  and  Mercie'.  On  the 
E.  side  of  the  square  is  the  Lafayette  Theatre  (PL  D,  3),  occupying 
the  site  of  the  house  in  which  an  attempt  was  made  to  assassinate 
Secretary  Seward  in  1865. 

A statue  of  Kosduszko  is  also  to  be  erected  in  this  square. 

Opposite  Lafayette  Sq.  is  the  entrance  to  the  *White  House  or 
Executive  Mansion  of  the  President  of  the  United  States  (PL  D 3). 
■«7n  ^ two-storied  stone  building,  painted  white, 

im  tt.  long  ^d  8b  ft.  deep,  with  an  Ionic  portico.  It  was  founded  in  1792 
occupied  hy  President  Adams  in  1800,  burned  by  the  British  in  1814,  and 
Jono  V lolo.  Extensive  alterations  and  additions  were  made  in  1902- 
1903  by  Mr.  McKim,  who  restored  many  features  of  the  original  architect, 
James  Hoban.  The  public  entrance  is  now  in  a colonnade  to  the  E. 

basement- corridor,  hung  with  portraits  of  Mistresses  of  the 
W hite  House,  leads  to  the  staircases  ascending  to  the  public  rooms.  The 
corresponding  esplanade  or  terrace  on  the  W.  side  connects  the  house 


820  Route  43,  WASHINGTON.  Corcoran  Gallery. 

with  the  new  Executive  Offices  and  Cabinet  Room.  — The  large  East  Room 
(80  ft.  x-iO  ft.  x22  ft.)  is  open  to  the  public  from  iO  to  2.  The  Reception 
Rooms.,  which  contain  portraits  of  Presidents  and  valuable  gifts  from 
royal  and  other  personages,  are  shown  by  special  order  only.  The  rest 
of  the  house  is  private.  — The  Grounds  surrounding  the  house  are  75  acres 
in  extent. The  Marine  Band  (p.  323)  gives  public  concerts  in  the  grounds 
to  the  S.  of  the  house,  on  Sat.  afternoons  in  summer,  and  children  have 
the  privilege  of  rolling  their  coloured  eggs  here  at  Easter. 

To  the  W.  of  the  White  House  is  the  building  that  accommodates 
the  State,  War,  and  Navy  Departments  (PI.  0,  3;  9-2),  a huge 
parallelogram,  enclosing  two  courts  and  measuring  567  ft.  in  length 
by  342  ft.  in  breadth. 

The  N.  and  W.  wings  are  occupied  by  the  War  Department,  where 
the  Secretary’s  Apartments  and  the  adjoining  corridors  contain  a collec- 
tion of  Portraits  of  Secretaries  of  War  and  Generals.,  including  one  of 
Washington  by  D.  Huntington.  The  Library.,  on  the  4th  floor,  contains 
a fine  collection  of  books  on  military  science  and  the  late  Civil  War. 

The  Navy  Department  is  in  the  E.  part  of  the  building  and  contains 
models  of  war-ships,  portraits,  etc.  The  Library.,  on  the  3rd  floor,  is  a 
fine  room  with  25,000  volumes. 

The  ^Department  of  State  (corresponding  to  the  Foreign  Office  in  Lon- 
don) occupies  the  S.  part  of  the  building.  Among  the  rooms  usually  shown 
to  visitors  are  the  Diplomatic  Reception  Rooms,  containing  portraits  of  the 
Secretaries  of  State  from  1789  to  the  present  day,  and  the  Library  (2nd 
floor;  66,000  vols.),  with  Jefferson’s  original  draft  of  the  Declaration  of 
Independence  and  other  relics. 

The  Mills  Building  (Pi.  C,  3)  is  an  annex  of  the  Navy  Department,  and 
Winder'‘s  Building  (PI.  C,  3)  is  used  by  the  War  Office.  The  red  building 
at  the  corner  of  17th  St.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  formerly  the  Corcoran 
Gallerv  (see  below),  is  now  the  Court  of  Claims  (PI.  C,  3). 

To  the  S.  of  the  State  Building  is  the  old  Van  Ness  House,  a large 
yellow  building  among  trees.  — To  the  S.W.  is  a grey  painted  house  which 
was  General  Grant’s  headquarters  during  the  Civil  War. 

In  17tb  St.,  to  tbe  S.W.  of  tbe  State  Building,  between  New 
York  Ave.  and  E St.,  is  tbe  *Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art  (PI.  C,  3), 
built  and  endowed  by  tbe  late  Mr.  W.  W.  Corcoran  and  open  daily, 
from  9.30  (Mon.  from  12)  till  4 and  on  Sun.  from  1.30  to  4.30 
(holidays  10-2;  adm.  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  & Frid.  25  c.;  other  days  free; 
closed  on  Christmas  and  from  July  1st  to  Oct.  1st).  The  present 
building,  erected  in  1894-97,  is  a handsome  white  marble  structure 
in  a Neo-Grecian  style,  by  Ernest  Flagg.  The  semicircular  part  at 
the  N.  end  is  occupied  by  a School  of  Art  (300  pupils).  The  steps  to 
the  main  entrance  are  flanked  by  colossal  bronze  lions,  modelled  on 
those  by  Canova  at  the  tomb  of  Pope  Clement  AIII.  Catalogue  25  c. 

Ground  Floor.  The  Atrium  contains  casts.  — The  numbers  over  the 
doors  are  not  the  numbers  of  the  rooms,  but  the  following  description 
begins  on  the  E.  fide,  to  the  left  of  the  staircase,  and  takes  them  in  con- 
secutive order.  Boom  I.  Bronzes  by  Barye  (over  100  pieces).  — Boom  II. 
Original  sculptures,  inclitding  busts  by  Hiram  Powers  and  Rauch  (Alex,  von 
Humboldt).  — Boom  III.  Sculptures.  *2310.  Powers,  Greek  slave  (1843); 
2006.  Canova,  Colossal  head  of  Napoleon;  2015.  Rinehart,  Endymion.  — 
Boom  IV.  Large  English  and  Japanese  vases.  Electrotype  reproductions. 
Booms  V-VII.  Casts.  — The  other  rooms  on  this  floor  are  occupied  by 
the  library,  offices,  etc.  ^ , , , 

Upper  Floor.  Central  Hall.  *Last  Days  of  Napoleon  I.,  a seated  marble 
figure  by  Vincenzo  Vela.  — Boom  I(N.W^.).  Loan  Collection  of  Pictures. 


Pension  Office. 


WASHINGTON. 


43,  Route,  321 


Room  II  (N.E.).  To  the  left:  Thomas  Cole^  2.  The  departure,  3.  (farther  on), 
The  return 5 4.  C.  E.  Boughton^  The  heir  presumptive;  1.  G.  L.  Elliott^ 
Portrait  of  Mr.  Corcoran;  33.  Edwin  Lord  Weeks^  Departure  for  the  hunt 
(India);  31.  8.  R.  Gifford of  the  Parthenon;  29.  Whittredge^  27.  Inness^ 
23.  Kensetty  Landscapes;  24.  F.  E.  Churchy  Niagara  Falls ; 20.  Bridgman^  Pro- 
cession of  the  Sacred  Bull  Apis-Osiris;  21.  Harry  Chase^  Harbour  of  New 
York;  18.  Boughton^  Edict  of  William  the  Testy;  12.  W.  T.  Richards^  Coast- 
scene;  9.  0.  8.  Truesdell^  Going  to  pasture;  7.  R.  N.  Brooke.,  Pastoral  visit.  — 
In  small  room  adjoining  are  a few  small  pictures,  including  165.  Land- 
scape, by  Joseph  Jefferson.,  the  actor.  — Room  III.  Left:  140.  George  Fuller., 
Loretto;  "187.  Brush,  Mother  and  Child;  53.  W.  P.  Lamb,  The  road  to 
Concarneau;  no  number,  Ben  Foster,  The  lonely  road;  iQ.  A.  Bierstadt, 
Mt.  Corcoran;  42.  G.  8.  Reinhart,  Washed  ashore.  — Room  IV.  98.  Ziem, 
Constantinople;  94.  8chreyer,  Watering-place;  101.  /.  A.  Breton,  Breton 
widow;  95.  Pauwels,  Justice  to  Lievin  Pyn;  97.  Gazin,  Moonlight  in  Hol- 
land; 96.  Diaz,  Approaching  storm;  no  number,  Josef  Israels,  By  the 
cradle;  91.  J.  Faed,  Shakspeare  and  his  contemporaries;  "92.  Gorot,  Wood- 
gatherers;  88.  Dupri,  The  pond  of  the  great  oak;  83.  Van  Mar  eke.  Land- 
scape with  cattle;  84.  Otto  von  Thoren,  Lost  dogs;  85.  Daubigny,  Scene  on 
the  Seine;  79.  G.  L.  Muller,  Charlotte  Corday  in  prison;  74.  Vibert,  The 
schism;  73.  Benner,  Joan  of  Arc  in  infancy;  68.  Leroux,  The  Vestal  Tuccia; 
69.  Troyon,  Going  to  drink;  67.  Jsabey,  Wedding;  87.  Gotirhet,  Landscape; 
65.  F.  H.  Kdmmerer,  Beach  at  Scheveningen ; *63.  Detaille,  Passing  regiment; 
153.  Priou,  Family  of  satyrs;  61.  Erskine  Nicol,  Paddy’s  mark. — Room  V. 
Several  small  pictures ; Aivasowsky,  118.  The  relief  ship,  119.  Distributing 
supplies  in  a Russian  famine;  117.  Renouf,  A helping  hand;  Braekeleer, 
115.  Happy  family,  116.  Unhappy  family;  113.  Bjdrek,  Nail-makers ; 109. 
George  Morland,  The  farm-house.  — Room  VI.  Portraits  of  Presidents  and 
others,  including  works  by  Gilbert  8tuart,  Healy,  8ully,  Malbone  (portrait 
of  himself),  R.  Peale , Duplessis , Lenbach  (Bismarck),  and  Gutherz  (Miss 
Susan  B.  Anthony).  — Room  VII.  138.  Raphael  Mengs,  Adoration  of  the 
Shepherds;  173.  Detaille,  General  of  the  First  Empire;  175.  Gazin,  Land- 
scape; 182.  Van  Marcke,  Cows  in  a meadow;  177.  M.  Mempes,  The  vista; 
181.  Rosa  Bonheur,  Bull;  no  number,  E.  L.  Warner,  Broadway  on  a rainy 
evening  (watercolour);  137.  Detaille,  French  cuirassiers  with  Bavarian 
prisoners.  — Room  VIII.  149.  0.  Achenbach,  Festival  at  Naples;  151.  Ary 
8cheffer,  Count  Eberhard  of  Wurtemberg;  152.  Emile  Breton,  Sunset;  102. 
G.  Becker,  Pope  Julius  II.,  with  Vittoria  Colonna,  Raphael,  Michael  Angelo, 
and  Bramante,  viewing  the  newly  exhumed  Apollo  Belvedere;  186.  V/. 
M.  Ghase,  The  model  (pastel);  154.  Vail,  Ready  about;  156.  Dumaresq,  The 
Geneva  Conference;  157.  Gerdme,  Csesar  dead;  268.  Healy,  Guizot. 

We  may  now  return  to  the  Treasury  (p.  319)  and  follow  F St. 
towards  the  E.  To  the  right,  between  8th  and  7th  Sts.,  is  the  General 
Land  Office  (PI.  E,  3),  a handsome  building  in  the  Corinthian  style, 
formerly  the  post-office  but  now  used  by  the  Interior  Department. 
Opposite  stands  the  "^Department  of  the  Interior  (PI.  E,  3 ; 9-2), 
often  called  the  Patent  Office  from  one  of  its  most  important  bureaux, 
a huge  building  453  ft.  long  and  330  ft.  deep,  with  a Doric  portico. 
The  centre  is  of  stone,  and  the  wings  of  marble. 

This  building  contains  the  rooms  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior,  the 
Indian  Office,  etc.,  which  may  be  viewed  on  application  to  the  attendants. 
The  Upper  floor  is  occupied  by  four  halls  containing  a huge  Gollection  of 
Patents  and  Models.  Some  of  the  most  interesting  have  been  removed  to 
the  National  Museum  (p.  316). 

At  5th  St.  F St.  reaches  Judiciary  Square  (PI.  E,  3),  on  the  N. 
side  of  which  stands  the  Pension  Office  (open  9-4) , an  enormous 
barn-like  structure  of  brick , 400  ft.  long  and  200  ft.  wide  (said  to 
be  the  largest  brick  building  in  the  world).  It  is  surrounded  by 

Ba:deker’8  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  21 


322  Route  43. 


WASHINGTON.  Halls  of  the  Ancients, 


a terracotta  frieze,  illustrating  military  and  naval  operations.  The 
interior,  with  its  mammoth  columns,  is  rather  imposing,  and  can 
accommodate  about  20,000  people  at  an  inauguration  hall.  — On  the 
S.  side  is  the  District  Court  House  (or  City  Hall')^  occupied  by  the 
District  of  Columbia  Courts  and  the  District  Commissioners  (p.  310). 
In  front  is  a column  bearing  a Statue  of  Lincoln^  by  Flannery.  Hard 
by,  in  the  triangle  between  3rd  Str.  and  Indiana  Ave.  (PI.  E,  3),  is 
a statue  of  General  Albert  Pike.  Near  by,  in  B St.,  between  1st  and 
2nd  Sts.,  is  the  large  Census  Bureau  (PI.  E,  F,  4),  in  which  a large 
staff,  enormously  reinforced  at  the  decennial  periods  of  the  national 
census,  is  constantly  at  work.  The  enumerating  machines  are  espe- 
cially interesting.  This  bureau  belongs  to  the  newly  created  Ministry 
of  Commerce  ^ Lab  our  ^ the  temporary  offices  of  which  are  at  513 
14th  St. 

A little  to  the  N.E.  of  this  point,  at  the  corner  of  North  Capitol 
St.  and  H St.,  is  the  Government  Printing  Office  (PI.  F,  3;  parties 
conducted  round  the  building  at  10  and  2),  a large  12-story  building 
constructed  at  a cost  of  $2,000,000.  — Ford's  Theatre  (PI.  D,  3; 
now  used  by  Government) , in  which  President  Lincoln  was  assas- 
sinated by  Wilkes  Booth  on  April  14th,  1865,  is  in  10th  St.,  between 
F St.  and  E St.  A house  opposite  (No.  576)  bears  a tablet  stating 
that  Lincoln  died  there  and  contains  a collection  of  Lincoln  relics 
(adm.  25  c.).  — On  the  S.  side  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.,  between 
11th  and  12th  Sts.,  is  the  Post  Office  (PI.  D,  3),  with  facades  200 
and  300  ft.  long,  and  a tower  300  ft.  high.  It  was  completed  in  1899 
and  accommodates  the  U.S.  Post  Office  Department,  the  Auditor  for 
the  P.  0.  Department,  and  the  City  Post  Office.  The  Dead  Letter 
Office  Museum,  on  the  groundfloor,  is  open  from  9 to  4.  — At  the 
corner  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  14th  St.  is  the  new  Municipal 
Building  (PI.  D,  3).  — The  Baltimore  ^ Potomac  Railway  Station 
(PI.  E,  4)  was  the  scene  of  Garfield’s  assassination  by  Guiteau  (July 
2nd,  1881). 

At  1312  New  York  Ave.,  between  13th  and  14th  Sts.,  are  the 
**‘Halls  of  the  Ancients  (PI.  D,  3 ; open  9-6  ; adm.  25  c.),  erected  by 
Mr.  Franklin  W.  Smith  (comp.  pp.  226,448)  ‘to  demonstrate  the  faci- 
lity of  reconstructions  illustrative  of  the  art,  architecture,  and  do- 
mestic environment  of  ancient  nations’.  The  present  fa9ade  is  merely 
temporary  and  is  no  adequate  index  of  the  interest  of  the  interior. 

From  tlie  vestibule  we  enter  the  Egyptian  Hall  of  Gods  and  Kings, 
with  twelve  huge  columns  30  ft.  high,  with  lotus-bud,  palm,  and  Hathor 
cav'itals.  The  Upper  Egyptian  Hall  reproduces  Ihe  court  and  interior  of 
an  ancient  Egyptian  house.  The  Assyrian  Throne  Pioom  contains  repro- 
ductions of  the  throne  of  Xerxes  from  Persepolis  and  casts  of  the  Nineveh 
and  Nimroud  slabs  in  the  British  Museum.  The  Roman  Hall  is  a repro: 
duction  of  the  House  of  the  Vettii  at  Pompeii  and  is  even  finer  than  the 
House  of  Pansa  at  Saratoga  (p.  226).  The  Saracenic  Hall  reproduces  the 
House  of  Bensaquin  at  Tangiers  and  contains  casts  of  the  ornamentation 
of  the  Alhambra.  The  Lecture  Hall  contains  a huge  mural  painting  of 
Rome  in  the  time  of  Emp.  Constantine  (312  A.  D.),  after  Biihlmann  and 
Wagner.  — The  primary  object  of  the  Halls  of  the  Ancients  is  to  illustrate 


Navy  Yard. 


WASHINGTON. 


43.  Route.  323 


Mr.  Smitli’s  far-reacMng  scheme  for  a series  of  National  Galleries  of  History 
and  Art,  models,  and  designs  of  which  may  be  inspected  in  the  Hall  of 
the  Model.,  while  the  details  may  be  studied  in  Mr.  Smith’s  pamphlets. 

Souvenirs  of  the  various  halls  are  on  sale  in  the  Roman  ‘Taberna’, 
forming  an  annex  to  the  main  building. 

Following  New  York  Ave.  towards  the  N.E.,  we  soon  reach  Mt. 
Vernon  Square,  containing  the  ^Public  Library  (PI.  E,  3),  a tasteful 
white  marble  building,  erected  in  1902  from  the  designs  of  Acker- 
man & Ross,  at  the  expense  of  Mr.  Andrew  Carnegie.  It  contains 
at  present  about  30,000  volumes. 

Not  far  off,  at  1439  K St.,  is  the  office  of  the  Carnegie  Institute, 
founded  by  Mr.  Carnegie  in  1902  to  encourage  investigation,  re- 
search, and  discovery,  and  endowed  by  him  with  $ 10,000,000. 

According  to  the  Trust  Deed  the  chief  object  of  the  founder  is  ‘to 
secure  if  possible  for  the  United  States  of  America  leadership  in  the 
domain  of  discovery  and  the  utilization  of  new  forces  for  the  benefit  of 
man’.  So  far  the  funds  have  been  used  mainly  in  the  promotion  of 
astronomical,  physical,  chemical,  geological,  geographical,  and  archaeolog- 
ical research , and  for  the  preparation  of  an  economic  history  of  the 
United  States. 

A visit  may  be  paid  (tramway  along  7th  St.)  to  the  Washington 
Barracks  (PI.  E,6),  now  used  as  an  artillery  station  (drill  9-11  a.m.). 
'The  reservation  of  the  Washington  Barracks  also  contains  the  Army 
War  College,  founded  in  1903;  and  close  by  this  will  be  the 
Statue  of  Frederick  the  Great  presented  to  the  United  States  by 
Emp.  William  II. 

About  1 M.  to  the  N.E.  (tramway  on  M St.),  on  the  Anacostia  or 
E.  branch  of  the  Potomac,  is  the  Washington  Navy  Yard  (PI.  G,  5; 
open  from  9 a.m.  to  sunset),  which  contains  a museum  and  other 
points  of  interest.  Ships  are  not  built  here,  hut  the  gun-foundry 
is  very  important  and  large  quantities  of  naval  stores  are  made.  — 
A little  to  the  N.  are  the  Marine  Barracks  (PI.  G,  5),  where  the  famous 
band  plays  in  summer  every  Mon.  at  11  a.m.  — Farther  to  the  E. 
are  the  Congressional  Cemetery  (PI.  H,  5),  containing  the  graves  of 
many  Members  of  Congress;  the  U.  S.  Jail  (10-4);  and  the  Alms 
House.  — On  the  S.  side  of  the  Anacostia  is  the  large  Government 
Insane  Asylum  (PI.  G,  6;  1500  inmates).  — From  the  Jail  we  may 
return  through  Massachusetts  Ave.  to  (3/4  M.)  Lincoln  Square  (PI. 
G,  H,  4),  with  BalFs  Emancipation  Group  (comp.  p.  104),  whence 
tramways  and  omnibuses  run  to  the  Capitol  and  the  city. 

The  new  Naval  Observatory  (PI.  A,  1 ; 9-3),  in  the  N.W.  part 
of  the  city,  should  be  visited  by  all  interested  in  astronomical  work. 
Its  equipments  and  instruments  are  excellent.  Visitors  are  some- 
times admitted  on  Thurs.  evening  to  look  through  the  26 -inch 
equatorial  telescope  (by  special  permit  from  the  Superintendent).  — • 
The  old  Naval  Observatory  has  been  converted  into  a Government 
Museum  of  Hygiene  (PI.  B,  3;  open  free,  9-2). 

The  ^Signal  Office  and  Weather  Bureau  (PI.  B,  2;  9-2),  at  the 
corner  of  M and  24th  Sts.,  is  also  well  worth  a visit.  The  arrange- 
ments for  forecasting  the  weather  are  most  interesting. 

21* 


324  Route  43. 


WASHINGTON. 


Environs, 


Many  of  the  Circles  formed  by  the  intersection  of  the  streets  and 
avenues  (see  p.  310)  are  adorned  with  statues,  among  which  are  the  follow- 
ing: Washington  (equestrian),  by  Clark  Mills,  in  Washington  Circle  (PI, 

B,  3);  Admiral  Dupont^  by  Launt  Thompson,  in  Dupont  Circle  (PL  C,  2); 
Gen.  Winfield  Scott  (equestrian),  by  H.  K.  Brown,  in  Scott  Circle  (PL  C, 
D,  2);  Adm.  Farragut.^  by  Mrs.  Hoxie  (Vinnie  Ream),  in  Farragut  Sq.  (PL 

C,  3)  5 Gen.  McPherson  (equest.),  by  Rebisso,  in  McPherson  Sq.  (PL  D,  3); 

Gen.  Thomas  (equest.),  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  in  Thomas  Circle  (PL  D,  2)^ 
Martin  Luther  (just  to  the  N.  of  the  last),  a replica  of  the  figure  by  Riet- 
schel,  in  the  Reformation  Monument  at  Worms  ^ Ben.  Franklin.,  by  Plass- 
man  and  Juvenal,  at  the  intersection  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  10th  St. 
(PL  D,  3)^  Aog'aw  (equest.),  by  F.  A.  Simmons,  in  Iowa  Circle  (PI.  D,  2) ; 
Gen.  W.  S.  Hancock  (equest.),  by  Ellicott,  and  Gen.  Rawlins^  by  Bailly,  at 
the  crossing  of  Louisiana  Ave.  and  Pennsylvania  Ave.  (PL  E,  4);  Gen. 
Greene  (equest.),  by  Brown,  in  Stanton  Sq.  (PL  G,  3,  4).  Scott  Circle  also 
contains  a monument  to  Hahnemann  (1755-1843),  the  founder  of  homeopathy, 
by  Ch.  H.  Niehaus.  ‘ 

The  Columbia  Institute  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  (PL  G,  2),  in  Ken- 
dall Green.,  incorporates  what  is  said  to  be  the  only  college  for  deaf-mutes 
in  the  world.  In  the  grounds  is  a bronze  group  by  Dan.  C.  French,  Gal- 
laudet  teaching  a deaf  child. 

One  of  the  favourite  Drives  in  Washington  is  that  to  the  ^Soldiers* 
Home,  a large  asylum  for  old  soldiers  (750  inmates),  situated  in  a beautiful 
park  to  the  IST.  of  the  city,  3 M.  from  the  Capitol  (also  reached  by  tram- 
way). On  the  way  to  it  we  pass  the  Howard  University  (PL  E,  1),  founded 
in  1867  for  the  education  of  youth  irrespective  of  colour  or  sex  (900  stud- 
ents). The  grounds  of  the  Soldiers’  Home  afford  fine  views  (‘Capitol 
Vista’,  etc.)  and  contain  a Statue  of  Gen.  Scott.,  founder  of  the  Home,  by 
Launt  Thompson.  President  Lincoln  spent  part  of  the  summers  of  his  pre- 
sidential term  in  one  of  the  cottages  at  the  Soldiers’  Home.  — To  the  N. 
lies  the  National  Military  Cemetery,  with  the  graves  of  Gen.  Logan,  Gen. 
Kearney,  and  7C(X)  soldiers.  On  the  W.  this  is  adjoined  by  Rock  Creek  Cem- 
etery, containing  St.  Gaudens’s  beautiful  *Monument  of  Mrs.  Henry  Adams. 
— To  the  E.  of  the  Soldiers’  Home  Park  is  the  Catholic  University  of 
America  (160  students).  We  may  now  return  via  Glenwood  Cemetery  (PL  F,  1). 

Georgetown,  or  West  Washington  (tramway),  beyond  Rock  Creek,  lies 
at  the  head  of  the  Potomac  navigation  and  is  the  port  of  entry  for  the 
District  of  Columbia.  It  contains  large  flour-mills,  the  handsome  build- 
ings of  Georgetown  University,  an  old  Jesuit  institution  founded  in  1789  (650 
students^  fine  library),  and  the  Convent  of  the  Visitation.  In  M St.,  near 
the  Aqueduct  Bridge,  is  the  house  in  which  Francis  Scott  Key,  author  of 
the  ‘Star-spangled  Banner’  (p.  302),  lived.  In  Oak  Hill  Cemetery  (PL  B,  2) 
is  the  grave  of  J.  Howard  Payne  (1792-1852),  author  of  ‘Home,  Sweet 
Home’.  The  Waggaman  Gallery,  3300  0 St.  (adm.,  see  p.  309),  contains 
chiefly  Dutch  water-colours  and  Japanese  porcelain,  bronzes,  weapons, 
articles  of  jade,  and  ivory  carvings  5 it  now  belongs  to  Georgetown  University. 

To  the  N.  of  Georgetown,  on  Rock  Creek,  lies  the  “^National  Zoological 
Park  (comp.  PL  C,  1),  reached  from  Washington  in  V2  hr.  by  two  lines 
of  tramway.  This  large  park  (170  acres-,  open  free)  is  still  in  a some- 
what wild  state,  and  a visit  to  it  entails  a good  deal  of  walking.  It  does 
not  contain  a very  large  number  of  animals,  but  it  is  interesting  to  see 
such  native  animals  as  the  bison  and  moose  in  the  comparative  freedom 
of  their  extensive  enclosures.  The  beavers  and  prairie  dogs  should  not 
be  overlooked.  — One  line  of  cars  goes  on  past  the  Zoological  Park  to 
Chevy  Chase,  with  its  country- club  and  golf-links.  — *Rock  Creek  Park, 
to  the  N.  of  the  Zoological  Park,  has  an  area  of  over  1600  acres  and 
extends  to  the  District  line.  Its  natural  beauties  of  forest,  hill,  and  stream 
are  very  great,  and  many  attractive  drives  have  been  cut  through  it.  — 
On  Mt.  St.  Alban,  near  Woodley,  to  the  N.W.  of  Georgetown,  is  the  Peace 
Cross,  a large  Celtic  cross  erected  at  the  close  of  the  war  with  Spain 
(1898)  on  the  grounds  of  the  proposed  Episcopal  cathedral.  It  affords  a 
fine  view  of  Washington. 


Environs, 


WASHINGTON. 


43,  Route.  325 


♦To  Arlington  and  National  Cemetery.  This  interesting  trip  should  not 
he  omitted.  Those  who  do  not  drive  all  the  way  (carr.  $ 5)  may  go  by  tram- 
way to  the  Union  Station  (PI.  A,  2)  at  the  Georgetown  Aqueduct  (PI.  A,  3), 
cross  the  bridge  (omn.  across  and  back  5 c.),  and  take  the  electric  car  to 
(1/4  hr.)  the  gate  near  (1  M.)  Fort  Myer  (return-fare  15  c.).  Or  they  may 
take  the  electric  car  from  the  cor.  of  Pennsylvania  Ave.  and  I31/2  St.  to 
the  Sherman  Gate  of  the  cemetery  (hourly),  crossing  the  Long  Bridge  (p.  319; 
return-fare  20  c.).  Public  carriages  (hardly  necessary)  meet  the  cars  at  the 
Fort  Myer  gate  and  make  the  round  of  the  cemetery  (25  c. ; stopover  al- 
lowed at  the  mansion).  The  National  Cemetery  (PI.  A,  4,  5)  contains  the 
graves  of  about  16,(X)0  soldiers.  *Arlington  House,  in  the  middle  of  the 
grounds,  200  ft.  above  the  river,  was  once  the  residence  of  George  Washing- 
ton Parke  Custis  (step-grandson  of  Washington)  and  afterwards  of  Gen. 
Robert  Lee.,  the  famous  Confederate  commander,  who  married  Miss  Custis. 
It  affords  a fine  ' View  of  Washington,  but  now  contains  little  of  interest. 
Near  the  house  are  the  graves  of  Gen.  Sheridan  (d.  1888),  Admiral  Porter 
(d.  1891),  Gen.  Lawton  (d.  1899),  and  other  distinguished  officers.  To  the  S. 
is  a tomb  containing  the  remains  of  2111  unknown  soldiers.  The  sailors 
destroyed  by  the  blowing  up  of  the  ‘Maine’  in  1898  and  other  victims  of 
the  war  with  Spain  are  buried  in  the  S.  part  of  the  cemetery. 

♦From  Washington  to  Mount  Vernon,  15  M.,  steamer  daily  from  7th 
St.  S.W.  Wharf  (PI.  E,  5)  at  10  a.m.  and  2.30  p.m.  (1.45  p.m.  in  winter), 
allowing  2 hrs.  at  Mt.  Vernon,  and  regaining  Washington  at  2,15  and 
6.15  p.m.  (1.40  and  5.15  p.m.  in  winter;  return-fare  75  c.,  including  ad- 
mission to  Mt.  Vernon).  [Mt.  Vernon  may  also  be  reached  by  electric 
tramway  via  Alexandria;  return-fare  50c.]  This  interesting  trip  to  the 
old  home  of  George  Washington  should  on  no  account  be  omitted.  — The 
steamer  descends  the  Potomac.  6^2  M.  Alexandria  [Braddock  Ho..^  $ 2; 
Fleischmann  Ho..,  $ 2,  R.  from  $ 1),  a quaint  old  Virginian  city  of  14,588 
inhab.,  with  the  church  (Christchurch)  which  Washington  and  Gen.  Robert 
Lee  used  to  attend  (pews  still  pointed  out).  The  old  Carlyle  House  was  the 
head-quarters  of  Gen.  Braddock  in  17.55.  Tint  Lord  Fairfax  House  is  a fine 
example  of  the  Colonial  style.  Col.  Ellsworth,  the  first  man  to  die  in  the 
Civil  War,  was  killed  in  the  Marshall  House.  Adjoining  the  city  is  another 
National  Cemetery.,  with  4000  graves.  — 8V2  M.  Fort  Foote.,  Maryland,  an  aban- 
doned earthwork  of  the  Civil  War;  12  M.  Fort  Washington.,  an  old  stone  fort. 

15  M.  Mount  Vernon,  an  old-fashioned  wooden  mansion,  96  ft.  long, 
stands  on  a bluff,  200  ft.  above  the  river,  and  commands  a splendid  view. 
The  estate,  originally  named  Hunting  Greek  and  comprising  8000  acres,  was 
inherited  by  George  Washington  in  1752  from  his  brother  Lawrence,  who 
had  changed  the  name  in  honour  of  his  former  commander,  Adm.  Vernon 
of  the  British  navy.  The  central  part  of  the  house  was  built  by  Lawrence, 
and  the  wings  were  added  by  George  Washington.  The  house  and  2(X)  acres 
of  land  around  it  were  bought  by  the  Mt.  Vernon  Ladies  Association  in 
1859  for  $ 200,000  (raised  in  great  part  through  the  exertions  of  Mr.  Edward 
Everett)  and  have  been  restored  as  nearly  as  possible  to  their  condition  in 
George  Washington’s  lifetime.  — In  ascending  from  the  wharf  to  the  house 
we  pass  the  plain  brick  Tomb  of  George  Washington.,  containing,  behind 
an  iron  grating,  two  sarcophagi  with  the  remains  of  the  General  (1732-99) 
and  his  wife  Martha  (1730-1802).  The  house  (adm.  25  c.)  contains  a number 
of  interesting  relics,  of  which,  perhaps,  the  key  of  the  Bastille  is  the 
most  notable.  Different  rooms  have  been  restored  by  the  various  States. 
The  room  in  which  Washington  died  is  at  the  S.  end  of  the  first  floor, 
and  Mrs.  Washington  died  in  the  one  immediately  above  it.  The  room 
marked  Mrs.  Washington"* s Sitting  Room  was  more  probably  George  Wash- 
ington'‘s  Business  Room.  Light  refreshments  are  sold  in  the  Kitchen.  The 
tiles  in  the  piazza  were  brought  from  the  Isle  of  Wight.  The  brick  Barn., 
dating  from  1733,  is  probably  the  oldest  part  of  the  buildings.  The  Coach 
House  contains  Washington’s  carriage.  The  Negro  Quarters  are  to  the  W. 
of  the  house.  The  '^Garden  contains  trees  planted  by  Washington,  Jefferson, 
and  Franklin. 

From  the  Union  Station  at  Georgetown  (p.  324)  the  Washington  and 


326  Route  44, 


CANTON. 


From  Pittsburg 

Great  Falls  Electric  Railway  runs  along  the  Palisades  of  the  Potomac  to 
(7  M.)  Cabin  John  Bridge^  one  of  the  largest  stone  arches  in  the  world 
(220  ft.;  Petrnsse  Valley  Bridge  in  Luxembourg  275  ft.),  built  by  Gen.  Meigs 
for  the  Washington  Aqueduct  (fare  10  c.).  About  1 M.  short  of  the  bridge 
is  Glen  Echo  Park.,  the  headquarters  of  the  Red  Cross  Society.  The  Conduit 
Road,  skirting  the  railway,  is  a resort  of  cyclists.  About  5 M.  beyond  the 
bridge  are  the  ^Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac.  — On  Wesley  Heights.,  to  the  N. 
of  this  line,  is  the  new  American  University  (Methodist). 

From  Washington  to  Norfolk,  196  M.,  steamer  daily  (from  7th  St. 
Wharf)  at  6.30  p.m.,  arriving  at  8 a.m.  (fare  $ 3,  stateroom  $ 1-3;  second 
class  $ 2,  berths  free).  — From  Washington  to  Mt.  Vernon.,  see  p.  325;  thence 
to  (105  M.)  Point  Lookout.,  see  p.  308.  — 184  M.  Fort  Monroe,  see  p.  415; 
192  M.  Newport  News.,  see  p.  414.*  — 193  M.  Norfolk.,  see  p.  414. 

Railway  Excursions  may  be  easily  made  from  Washington  to  Anna- 
polis (p.307).  Harper's  Ferry  (p.  328),  the  Shenandoah  Valley  (p.  429),  etc.  — 
From  Washington  to  Chicago.,  see  R.  45;  to  Baltimore,  see  R.  42;  to  New 
York,  see  R.  42;  to  Richmond,  see  R.  66;  to  New  Orleans,  see  R.  67. 


44.  From  Pittsburg  to  Chicago. 

a.  Vi5.  Crestline  and  Fort  Wayne. 

468  M.  Pennsylvania  Co,’s  Lines  in  1272-14  hrs.  (fare  $12,  sleeper  $272). 

— From  New  York  to  Chicago  by  this  route,  see  R.  47a. 

Pittsburg^  see  R.  39.  The  train  crosses  the  Allegheny  River 
(p.  299),  runs  through  Allegheny  City  (p.  299),  and  follows  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ohio  for  some  distance.  25  M.  Rochester  (710  ft.),  at 
the  confluence  of  the  OMo  and  the  Beaver  River.,  wMch  we  now  fol- 
low towards  the  N.  (right).  30  M.  Beaver  Falls.  Farther  on  we  turn 
again  to  the  W.  (left)  and  beyond  (45  M.)  Enon  (995  ft.)  we  enter 
Ohio  (see  p.  330).  — 83  M.  Alliance  (1100  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  a 
branch-line  to  Cleveland  (p.  330).  — 101  M.  Canton  {Hot.  McKin- 
ley, $ 21/2-4;  Barnett  Ho.,  $ 2-21/2),  a city  of  30,667  inhab.,  in  a 
fine  wheat-growing  district,  was  the  home  of  President  McKinley 
(d.  1901),  to  whom  an  elaborate  monument  has  been  erected.  — 

— 175  M.  Mansfield  (17,640  inhab.).  — 189  M.  Crestline  (1170  ft.) 
is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Toledo,  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Indiana- 
polis, etc.  — 201  M.  Bucyrus  (6560  inhab.),  on  the  Sandusky  River. 
Beyond  (288  M.)  Van  Wert  we  enter  Indiana  (p.  333). 

320  M.  Fort  Wayne,  an  important  railway- centre  (comp.  p.  334). 
From  this  point  the  route  is  substantially  the  same  as  that  described 
at  p.  334.  — 360  M.  Warsaw,  on  the  Tippecanoe  River ; 384  M.  Ply- 
mouth; 415  M.  Wanatah;  424  M.  Valparaiso  (p.  334).  We  now 
approach  Lake  Michigan  (right).  Yarious  suburban  stations. 

468  M.  Chicago  (Canal  St.  Station),  see  R,  48. 

b.  Via  Columbus  and  Logansport. 

507  M.  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Chicago,  & St.  Louis  Railway  (Penn- 
sylvania Co.’s  ‘Pan  Handle  Line’)  in  16-19  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

Pittsburg,  see  R.  39.  This  line  runs  at  first  almost  due  W., 
crossing  the  narrow  arm  of  West  Virginia  (p.  328),  interposed 
between  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio.  Beyond  (42  M.)  Wheeling  Junction 
we  cross  the  Ohio  River  and  enter  Ohio  (see  above).  43  M.  Steuben- 


to  Chicago, 


COLUMBUS. 


44,  Route,  327 


ville  (730  ft. ; Imperial,  $ 2-21/2  ; Lacy,  from  $ 2),  an  industrial  city 
of  14,350  inhab.,  on  the  W.  bank  of  tbe  OMo.  92  M.  Dennison; 
124  M.  Coshocton;  138  M.  Trinway,  tbe  junction  of  a line  to  Cin- 
cinnati. 160  M.  Newark. 

193  M.  Columbus.  — Hotels.  Chittenden,  Haetman,  from  $ 3; 
Grand  Southern,  $2^2-5;  Neil  IIo.,  R.  from  $ Park  Hotel,  from  $ 2, 
R.  from  $ 1 •,  Smith  s European  Hotel.  — Tramways  traverse  the  prin- 
cipal streets.  — Post  Office.^  Capitol  Sq.,  cor.  of  State  St.  and  Third  St. 

Columbus  (745  ft.),  tbe  capital  of  Ohio,  is  a thriving  city  of 
(1900)  125,560  inbab.,  situated  on  tbe  E.  bank  of  tbe  Scioto  River, 
Its  commerce  is  important,  and  it  bas  manufactures  of  iron  and 
steel  goods,  carriages,  and  agricultural  implements  (value  in  1900, 
$ 40,000,000).  Its  streets  are  broad  and  much  better  paved  than  is 
usual  in  American  cities.  Broad  Street^  in  particular,  affords  a delight- 
ful drive  of  7 M.  over  an  asphalted  roadway  shaded  with  trees.  — 
Tbe  State  Capitol  is  a large  and  somewhat  odd-looking  building,  sur- 
rounded by  a small  park  full  of  tame  grey  squirrels.  Other  important 
buildings  are  tbe  Ohio  State  University  (1735  students),  tbe  Central 
Ohio  Lunatic  Asylum.,  tbe  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  tbe  State  Peni- 
tentiary, tbe  U.  S.  Barracks  (in  a pretty  park),  tbe  Court  House,  tbe 
Starling  Medical  College,  tbe  Idiot  Asylum,  tbe  Blind  Asylum,  and 
tbe  Board  of  Trade.  Goodale  Park,  at  tbe  N.  end  of  tbe  city,  is 
prettily  laid  out. 

From  Columbus  to  Cincinnati  see  p.  380.  Railways  also  run  hence  to 
Toledo.,  Cleveland,  Indianapolis,  etc. 

Beyond  Columbus  we  pass  numerous  unimportant  stations. 
240  M.  Urbana  (6808  inbab.),  a railway  - centre ; 266  M.  Piqua 
(12,172  inbab.).  At  (276  M.)  Bradford  Junction  tbe  railway  forks,  tbe 
left  branch  leading  to  Indianapolis  (p.  378)  and  St.  Louis  (p.  389), 
while  tbe  Chicago  line  keeps  to  tbe  right.  At  (297  M.)  Union  City 
we  enter  Indiana  (p.  333).  350  M.  Marion  (11,862  inbab.).  388  M. 
Anoka  Junction  (jg.  379).  — 390  M.  Logansport  (605  ft.;  Barnett, 
$ 21/2-3 ; Johnston,  $ 2),  a city  of  16,204  inbab.,  at  tbe  confluence  of  tbe 
Wabash  River,  Eel  River,  and  Wabash  ^ Erie  Canal , is  an  intersect- 
ing point  of  several  railways  (comp.  p.  379).  — 415  M.  Winamac; 
466  M.  Crown  Point.  — In  entering  Chicago  tbe  railway  crosses  tbe 
Drainage  Canal  (p.  352)  by  tbe  largest  swing-bridge  in  tbe  world, 
400  ft.  long  and  112  ft.  wide;  it  is  laid  with  eight  tracks. 

507  M.  Chicago  ( Canal  St.  Station),  see  R.  48. 

45.  From  Baltimore  to  Chicago. 

860  M.  Baltimore  & Ohio  Railroad  in  263/4  hrs.  (fare  $17,  sleeper  $5). 
This  line  passes  some  fine  scenery.  — From  New  York  to  Chicago  by  this 
route,  see  p.  345. 

From  Baltimore  to  (40  M.)  Washington,  see  R.  42.  A good  view 
of  Washington  is  enjoyed  as  we  leave  it.  The  line  runs  towards  tbe 
N.W.  through  Maryland  (p.  288).  Beyond  (76  M.)  Dickerson  tbe  Po- 
tomac comes  into  sight  on  tbe  left.  — 83  M.  Washington  Junction. 


328  Route  45. 


HARPER’S  FERRY.  From  Baltimore 


This  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (15  M.)  Frederick  (9296  inhah  ),  the 
scene  of  Barbara  Frietchie’s  exploit  with  the  flag  and  Stonewall  Jackson 
(see  Whittier’s  poem  and  Mrs.  Caroline  Dali’s  hook).  Francis  Scott  Key 
(1779-1843),  author  of  ‘The  Star-Spangled  Banner’  (p.  802),  is  hurled  in 
Mt.  Olivet  Cemetery,  opposite  the  entrance  of  which  is  a handsome  mon- 
ument, hy  Alex.  Doyle,  erected  to  him  in  1898. 

At  (84  M.)  Point  of  Rocks  (230  ft.)  we  thread  a tunnel  helow  a 
promontory  of  the  Catoctin  Mts..^  a prolongation  of  the  Blue  Ridge. 

Farther  on  the  valley  contracts  and  the  hills  grow  higher.  Near 
(93  M.)  Weverton  (250  ft.),  the  junction  of  a line  to  (24  M.)  Hagers- 
town (p.  288),  took  place  the  hattle  of  South  Mountain  (Sept.  14th, 
1862).  The  scenery  here  is  very  picturesque.  The  train  soon  crosses 
the  Potomac  and  enters  West  Virginia  at  — 

96  M.  Harper’s  Ferry  (270ft.;  Conner  s^  OatrellHo..,  $2;  Morrell 
Ho..,  Hill  Top  Ho.,  Lockwood  Ho.,  on  the  hill),  magnificently  situated 
on  the  point  of  land  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Potomac  and 
Shenandoah,  with  the  Maryland  Heights  on  the  one  side  and  the  Vir- 
ginian or  Loudon  Heights  on  the  other.  Pop.  1675,  including  Bolivar, 
whose  name  is  widely  celebrated  through  the  famous  raid  of  John 
Brown  (see  helow),  practically  the  first  scene  of  the  Civil  War.  The 
armoury  and  arsenal,  destroyed  during  the  Civil  War,  have  not  been 
rebuilt. 

John  Brown  of  Ossawattomie,  at  the  head  of  a party  of  about  20 
armed  Abolitionists,  entered  Harper’s  Ferry  by  the  bridge  on  the  night  of 
Oct.  16th,  1859,  and  took  possession  of  the  Arsenal,  intending  to  liberate 
the  negro-slaves  and  occupy  the  Blue  Ridge  as  a base  of  hostilities  against 
the  slave-owners.  The  negroes,  however,  did  not  rise,  and  Brown  and 
most  of  his  companions  were  killed  or  captured,  after  two  days’  fighting, 
by  a squad  of  U.  S.  Marines  that  had  come  to  the  aid  of  the  Virginia 
militia.  The  small  engine  house  in  which  John  Brown  made  his  last 
stand  (known  as  ‘John  Brown’s  Fort’)  was  removed  to  Chicago  in  1893, 
but  was  brought  back  after  the  World’s  Fair  and  placed  in  a small  park  on 
the  Shenandoah,  about  4 M.  from  Harper’s  Ferry.  Its  original  site  is 
marked  by  a small  monument.  John  Brown  and  six  of  his  associates 
were  hanged  at  Charlestown  (p.  429),  10  M.  to  the  S.W. 

The  visitor  should  ascend  from  the  station  to  (5-10  min.)  the  top  of 
the  promontory  (about  300  ft.  above  the  river),  which  commands  a fine 
*View  of  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  and  of  the  gap  made  in  the  Blue 
Ridge  by  their  combined  waters  bursting  through  it.  Just  below,  on  the 
Shenandoah  side,  is  a curious  pile  of  rocks  known  as  Jefferson‘*s  Rock.  We 
may  follow  the  path  along  the  Shenandoah  (high  above  it)  and  then  go 
on  by  road,  passing  the  large  Storer  College,  to  (1  M.)  the  top  of  the 
ridge  called  Bolivar  Heights,  which  commands  a splendid  *View  of  the  rich 
and  fertile  Valley  of  Virginia  (Shenandoah  Valley),  backed  by  the  Alle- 
gheny Mts.,  30  M.  away.  To  the  N.  lies  the  battlefield  of  Antietam  (p.  429). 
— A fine  drive  may  be  taken  on  the  road  round  the  promontory  at  the 
foot  of  the  cliffs.  — The  ascent  of  ^Maryland  Heights  (1455  ft.  ^ view) 
takes  IV2  hr.  (bridle-path).  We  cross  the  bridge  over  the  Potomac  and 
turn  to  the  left.  About  2/3  of  the  way  up  we  take  the  less  promising 
path  to  the  left. 

Beyond  Harper’s  Ferry  the  line  leaves  the  Potomac  for  a time. 
103  M.  Shenandoah  Junction  is  the  junction  for  tbe  railway  through 
the  Shenandoab  Valley  (see  R.  68).  114  M.  Martinshurg,  tbe  junc- 
tion for  Harrisburg,  seep.  288.  Farther  on  we  cross  North  Mt.  (550  ft.) 
and  rejoin  tbe  Potomac  (right),  on  tbe  other  side  of  which  are  the 


to  Chicago. 


WHEELING. 


45.  Route.  329 


ruins  of  Fort  Frederick  (1755).  The  line  hugs  the  winding  stream, 
with  the  hills  rising  abruptly  on  each  side.  144  M.  Sir  John's  Run^ 
so  named  after  Sir  John  Sinclair,  Gen.  Braddock’s  Quartermaster. 
Beyond  (184  M.)  Patterson^s  Creek  we  cross  the  Potomac  and  re-enter 
Maryland.  — 192  M.  Cumberland  (640  ft. ; Queen  City  Hot.,  with  rail, 
restaurant,  $2-3),  a city  with  17,128  inhah.,  rolling-mills,  and 
glass-works. 

Cumberland  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (150  M.)  Pittsburg  (p.  295),  run- 
ning via  the  picturesque  Youghiogheny  Valley,  Gonnellsville,  and  McKeesport. 

Our  line  turns  to  the  S.W.  and  continues  to  follow  the  Potomac. 
The  scenery  is  rugged  and  picturesque.  Near  (216  M.)  Keyser  (800  ft.) 
we  cross  the  river  Into  W est  Yirginia,  hut  soon  recross  it.  At  (221  M.) 
Piedmont  (930  ft.)  we  leave  the  river  and  begin  the  steep  ascent  of 
the  Allegheny  Mts.  228  M.  Frankville  (1700  ft.) ; 233  M.  Swanton 
Water  Station  (2280  ft.) ; 237  M.  Altamont  (2620  ft.) , the  highest 
point  of  the  line.  The  descent  is  more  gradual,  and  we  pass  at  first 
through  a comparatively  level  district  known  as  the  Glades.,  on  the 
crest  of  the  Alleghenies  and  containing  the  headwaters  of  the  Yough- 
iogheny. 241 M.  Deer  Park  Hotel  (2455  ft. ; from  $ 3^/2),  a large  sum- 
mer-resort ; 243  M.  Mountain  Lake  Park  (Hotel,  $ 2-3)  ; 246  M.  Oak- 
land (2370ft.;  Oakland,  Glades,  $2-3),  another  summer- 

resort  amid  beautiful  scenery;  256  M.  Terra  Alta  (2550ft.).  We  now 
descend,  passing  through  numerous  cuttings  and  tunnels,  to  the  Cheat 
River  Valley,  crossing  the  river  at  (268  M.)  Rowlesburg  (1390  ft. ; 
*yiew  to  the  right).  We  now  begin  another  steep  ascent  to  the  crest 
of  Laurel  Hill.  273  M.  Anderson  (1855  ft.).  Beyond  (275  M.)  Tunnel- 
ton  (1820  ft.)  we  pass  through  the  Kingvcood  Tunnel,  M.  long. 
281 M.  Newburg  (1215  ft.).  At  (294M.)  Grafton  (995  ft. ; 5650  inhab.), 
on  the  Tygart’s  Valley  River,  we  leave  the  mountains. 

Our  line  (to  Wheeling  and  Chicago)  here  diverges  to  the  right 
from  the  line  to  Parkersburg,  Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis  (see  R.  57  d) 
and  runs  towards  the  N.W.,  down  the  Tygart’s  River.  Beyond  (316  M.) 
Fairmount  (875  ft.),  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Monongahela, 
we  ascend  the  picturesque  ravine  of  Buffalo  Creek , passing  through 
the  head  of  the  pass  (1150  ft.)  by  a tunnel.  We  then  descend  along 
a branch  of  Fish  Creek,  threading  several  tunnels.  At  (382  M.) 
Moundsville  (640  ft.)  we  approach  the  Ohio  (to  the  left). 

The  place  takes  its  name  from  an  Indian  Mound,  70  ft.  high  and  820  ft. 
in  circumference  at  the  base,  in  which  two  sepulchral  chambers  were  found, 
containing  three  skeletons  (comp.  p.  387). 

At  (389  M.)  Benwood  we  cross  the  river  and  enter  Ohio.  Beyond 
this  point  we  run  by  Central  Time  (p.  xviii). 

Wheeling  (645  ft.  ^ Windsor,  $2-3;  McClure  Ho.,  $21/2-31/2),^  on  the  Ohio, 
4 M.  above  Benwood,  is  the  largest  city  in  West  Virginia  (38,878  inhab.) 
and  has  manufactures  of  nails,  iron,  pottery,  and  glassware  (value  in  19C0, 
$ 16,750,000).  It  is  an  important  railway-centre  (to  Pittsburg,  see  p.  395). 

390  M.  Bellaire  (655  ft.)  lies  on  the  Ohio  side  of  the  river,  oppo- 
site Benwood  (see  above).  — 469  M.  Zanesville  (710  ft.,  Clarendon, 
$ 2 Y2"3 V2 ) l^ogge,  $ 2-3 Y2))  manufacturing  city  with 23,538  inhab., 


330  Route  46. 


ERIE. 


at  tlie  confluence  of  the  Muskingum  River  and  the  Licking  River.  We 
cross  the  former  river  by  a bridge  170  yds.  long.  — At  (494  M.) 
Newark  (820  ft. ; Warden,  from  $ 2),  with  18,157  inhab.,  we  cross  the 
Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis  R.  R.  (see  p.  327).  Our  line 
runs  N.W.  to  (556  M.)  Mansfield  (p.  326)  and  (582  M.)  Chicago 
Junction.,  where  it  forks,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Chicago,  the  right 
to  (29  M.)  Sandusky  (p.  333).  The  stations  beyond  this  point  are 
unimportant.  670  M.  Defiance ; 707  M.  Auhum  Junction;  748  M.  Mil- 
ford Junction;  840  M.  Rock  Island  Junction;  841  M.  South  Chicago. 

860  M.  Chicago  (Grand  Central  Station).,  see  R.  48. 


46.  From  Buffalo  to  Chicago. 

a.  Via.  Lake  Shore  & Michigan  Southern  Railroad. 

540  M.  Railway  in  13-18  hrs.  (fare  $14^  sleeper  or  parlor-car  $3).  This 
line  skirts  the  S.  shore  of  Lake  Erie.  From  New  York  to  Chicago  by  this 
route,  see  R.  47d. 

Probably  the  fastest  long  railway  run  on  record  was  that  made  on 
this  line  in  Oct.,  1895  (510  M.  in  470  min.,  or  upwards  of  65  M.  per  hour). 

Buffalo,  see  R.  28  a.  Several  small  stations  are  passed.  32  M. 
Silver  Creek  was  the  home  of  Kitty,  in  ‘A  Chance  Acquaintance’, 
by  W.  D.  Howells.  At  (40  M.)  Dunkirk  (Gratiot,  from  $2;  Erie, 
$ 2-2^2)  connection  is  made  with  the  Erie  R.  R.  (comp.  p.  344). 
Pleasant  views  of  Lake  Erie  to  the  right.  49  M.  Brocton  Junction 
(for  Chautauqua,  etc.),  see  p.  300.  — 58  M.  Westfield  is  the  point  of 
intersection  with  the  ‘Old  Portage  Road’,  a military  route  constructed 
by  the  French  explorers  in  1753.  At  (68  M.)  State  Line  we  pass 
into  Pennsylvania.  — 88  M.  Erie  (^Reed  Ho.,  $ 2-4t/2;  Liehel  Ho., 
$2-272;  Union  Depot  Hotel;  Massasauga  Point,  on  the  lake),  a lake 
shipping-port  with  a good  harbour  (enclosed  by  Presque  Isle)  and 
52,733  inhab.,  occupies  the  site  of  a French  fort  built  in  1749  and 
was  the  headquarters  of  Commodore  Perry  when  he  defeated  the 
Anglo-Canadian  fleet  in  1813.  It  contains  some  handsome  build- 
ings, including  the  Pennsylvania  Soldiers'  and  Sailors  Home,  and 
has  important  manufactories  of  boilers  and  engines.  It  is  the  junc- 
tion of  lines  to  Philadelphia  (p.  259) , Pittsburg  (p.  295),  etc.  — 
103  M.  Girard  (p.  300).  Beyond  (108  M.)  Springfield  we  enter  Ohio 
(the  ‘Buck-eye  State’,  so  called  from  the  buckeye-tree,  JEsculus 
flava  or  glabra).  129  M.  Ashtabula  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  Oil 
City,  Pittsburg,  etc.  154  M.  Painesville  is  also  the  junction  of  a line 
to  Pittsburg.  161  M.  Mentor  was  the  home  of  Pres.  Garfield  (d.  1881), 
whose  large  white  house  may  be  seen  beyond  the  station,  to  the  left. 
— In  approaching  Cleveland  we  cross  Gordon  Park  (p.  332). 

183  M.  Cleveland.  — Railway  Stations.  Union  Depot  (PI.  C,  1,  2),  at 
the  foot  of  Bank  St.;  Erie  Depot  (PL  C,  2),  near  the  Viaduct;  New  York, 
Chicago,  & St.  Louis  Railroad  (PL  E,  3),  Broadway;  Cleveland  d'  Canton  Rail- 
road (PL  D,  2),  Ontario  St.;  Valley  Railway  (PI.  C,  2),  S.  Water  St. 

Hotels.  Hollenden  (PL  a;  D,  2),  Superior  St.,  cor.  of  Bond  St.,  a large 
house,  R.  from  $ 1;  Euclid  (PL  h;  D,  2),  Euclid  Ave.,  K.  from  $1,  with 


Walter ^;T)eljes  C€og^Estal>^ Leipzig. 


; 


^cie(v  for  Savinns  C.2 . 

ianWerof  Commerce  CD.2. 
ose  BuUdinq  D.  2. 

^ Garfield  3).2. 

Century ClzLb  D.2.  A 

^cOwga.'Buildiriq  D.2./^ 

dUamsoTh  » ‘ D.2.*™^ 


9 SchofLeUt  ■>  D 2 

10  Public  LihrciPY  D 2 

11  GoloTual  Theaire  D 2 

12  Empire  „ D 2 

13  Vnion  Club  D 2 


G 


CLEVELAND. 


46.  Route.  331 


I 


ba>tli  from  $1^/2^  Colonial,  in  the  Colonial  Arcade  Cp.  332);  Forest  City 
(PL  d;  C,  2),  Monument  Park,  $ 2-3;  Kennaed  (PI.  e;  C,  2),  $ 2-3;  American 
(PI.  f;  C,  2),  $2-2V2;  Beverley  (PL  g;  E,  2),  430  Euclid  Ave.,  from  $21/2; 
Hawley  Ho.,  $2,  R.  from  75  c.;  Baldwin  (PL  i;  D,  2),  for  men  only,  B. 
from  $ 1. 

Restaurants.  '^Hollenden^  see  p.  330;  Zewwoa:,  Euclid  Ave.  and  Erie  St.; 
BoehmJee.,  250  Erie  St. ; Savarin.,  Ontario  St. ; Stranahan.^  in  the  Arcade. 

Electric  Tramways  traverse  the  chief  streets  in  all  directions  and  run 
to  various  suburban  points  (fare  within  the  city  3 c.).  — Cab  from  station 
to  hotel,  each  pers.  50  c.,  inch  baggage;  per  hour,  $11/2;  other  fares  in 
proportion;  50  per  cent,  more  after  11  p.m. 

Places  of  Amusement.  Opera  Hovse  (PL  D,  2),  Euclid  Ave.;  Empire 
Theatre  (PL  12;  D,  2;  first-class  vaudeville);  Colonial  Theatre  (PL  11;  D,  2; 
vaudeville);  Lyceum  Theatre  (PL  C,  2);  Star  Theatre  (PL  D,  2);  Cleveland, 
Theatre  (PL  C,  2).  y ^ , 

Post  Office,  Superior  St.,  between  Bank  and  Seneca  Sts.  (PI.  C,  2;' 
emporarily;  comp,  below). 

Cleveland  (580  ft.  above  tbe  sea),  tbe  largest  city  of  Ohio,  with 
(1900)  381,768  inhab.,  lies  on  the  S.  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  small  Cuyahoga  River ^ and,  with  its  broad  and  well- 
paved  streets,  its  green  lawns  and  squares,  and  its  numerous  trees 
(‘Forest  City’),  makes  a favourable  impression  on  the  visitor.  Its 
important  iron  and  steel  works  produce  goods  to  fthe  annual  value 
of  $ 40,000,000;  it  is  the  chief  seat  of  the  Standard  Oil  Co. ; and  it 
carries  on  a very  extensive  trade  through  its  excellent  harbour.  Most 
of  its  factories,  among  which  may  aLo  be  mentioned  those  for  the 
making  of  sewing-machines,  electro-dynamic  machinery,  and  electric 
lamp  carbons,  are  tucked  away  in  the  river-valley  below  the  level  of 
the  plateau  on  which  the  city  lies,  or  are  in  West  Cleveland  and 
along  the  river-front. 

Cleveland  was  founded  in  1796,  but  did  not  begin  to  grow  with  any 
rapidity  until  the  completion  of  the  Ohio  Canal,  connecting  Lake  Erie 
with  the  Ohio  (1834).  Its  pop.  in  1830  was  1000,  in  1860  it  was  43,417, 
in  1880  it  was  160,142,  and  in  1890  it  was  261,353.  Cleveland  is  one  of 
the  chief  ship-building  cities  in  the  United  States.  The  value  of  its 
manufactures  in  1900  was  $140,000,000  (28,0C0,000L) ; 59,000  hands  were 
employed. 

The  chief  business-street  is  Superior  Street  (PI.  C-F,  2,  1),  a 
really  fine  and  wide  thoroughfare,  the  W.  end  of  which  is  lined  with 
substantial  business  blocks,  such  as  the  Perry-Payne  Building  (Nos. 
103-109).  A little  farther  on  the  street  expands  into  '^Monumental 
Park  or  the  Public  Square  (PI.  C,  D,  2),  containing  a Soldiers'' 
Monument  and  a Statue  of  Gen.  Moses  Cleaveland  (1754-1806), 
founder  and  godfather  of  the  city.  The  new  Federal  Building,  now 
in  course  of  erection,  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  square,  will  contain 
the  Post  Office.,  the  Custom  House.,  and  the  Court  House.  At  the 
N.W.  corner  is  the  Old  Court  House  (PI.  C,  2),  adjoined  by  the 
American  Trust  Building  (14  stories).  On  the  N.  side  of  the  square, 
at  the  corner  of  Ontario  St.,  is  the  handsome  building  of  the  ^Society 
for  Savings  (PI.  1;  C,  2),  established  in  1849  and  now  containing 
upwards  of  45  million  dollars  (nine  millions  sterling).  There  are  no 
stock -holders,  the  entire  profits  going  to  the  73,000  depositors  (*View 
from  the  top  of  the  building).  Adjacent  is  the  Chamber  of  Com- 


332.  Route  46.  CLEVELAND.  From  Buffalo 

merce  (PI.  2;  C,  D,  2).  In  Superior  St.,  beyond  tbe  Federal  Building, 
is  tbe  massive  City  Hall  (PI.  D,  2),  which  is  adjoined  by  the  PuUic 
Library  (PI.  10;  212,000  vols.).  — A little  to  the  N.  of  this  point 
is  the  huge  New  Central  Armoury  (PL  D,  1). 

*Euclid  Avenue  (PL  D-G,2,  Ij,  which  begins  at  the  S.E.  angle 
of  the  Public  Square,  is  at  its  E.  end  also  an  important  artery  of 
business  and  farther  out  becomes  one  of  the  most  beautiful  residence  | 

streets  in  America,  with  each  of  its  handsome  houses  surrounded  , 

by  pleasant  grounds  and  shady  trees.  To  the  left  is  the  *Arcade  I 
(PL  D,  2),  400  ft.  long,  180  ft.  wide,  and  144  ft.  high,  with  a fine 
five-balconied  interior,  running  through  to  Superior  St. ; and  to  the 
right  is  the  Colonial  Arcade  (PL  D,  2),  running  through  to  Pro- 
spect St.  At  the  corner  of  Bond  St.  are  the  tall  Garfield  (10  stories! 
and  New  England  (16  stories)  Buildings  (PL  4,  5;  D,  2),  the  top 
floor  of  the  latter  occupied  by  the  New  Century  Club.  Near  Erie  St. 
is  the  Citizens  Building  (PI.  8 ; D,  2) , and  at  the  corner  are  the 
Lennox  Building  (PI.  D,  2;  1.)  and  the  Schofield  Building  (PL  9;  i 
D,  2 ; r.).  At  the  corner  of  Muirson  St.  is  the  handsome  new  build- 
ing of  the  Union  Club  (PI.  13;  D,  2).  Farther  on  are  several  fine 
churches.  About  41/2  M.  from  the  square  (street- car)  Euclid  Ave. 
reaches  the  beautiful  *Wade  Park,  which  contains  statues  of  Com- 
modore Perry  (p.  330)  and  Harvey  Rice.  Opposite  the  Park  are  the 
buildings  of  the  Western  Reserve  University  (including  Adelbert 
College^  Cleveland  Medical  College,  etc. ; 875  students)  and  the  Case 
School  of  Applied  Sciences  (450  students).  About  lt/2  M.  farther  on, 
the  avenue  ends  at  ‘^Lake  View  Cemetery,  containing  the  * Garfield 
Memorial  (adm.  10  c. ; erected  in  1890  at  a cost  of  $ 130,000),  the 
top  of  which  (165  ft.  high)  affords  a splendid  *View. 

Prospect  Street  (PI.  D-G,  2),  which  runs  parallel  to  Euclid  Ave.  on  the 
S.,  is  little  inferior  to  it  in  beauty.  At  the  corner  of  Erie  St.  are  the 
Rose  Building  (PI.  3^  D,  2)  and  the  handsome  building  of  the  Young  Men'^s 
Chi'istian  Association  (PI.  D,  2;  r.).  — Another  favourite  resort  is  '-Gordon 
Park,  to  the  N.E.  of  the  city,  on  the  lake,  connected  with  Wade  Park 
by  a fine  boulevard,  which  also  extends  to  the  new  Rockefeller  Park.  — 

The  huge  Market  (PI.  D,  2),  in  Ontario  St.,  is  well  equipped. 

Cleveland  is  connected  with  West  Cleveland.,  on  the  other  side 
of  the  Cuyahoga  Valley,  by  an  enormous  ^Viaduct  (PI.  C,  2), 
1070  ft.  long,  completed  in  1878  at  a cost  of  $2,200,000  (440,000(.) 
and  deservedly  regarded  as  a wonderful  feat  of  engineering.  The 
main  portion  of  the  viaduct  is  of  stone,  but  the  central  part  is  of 
iron  lattice-work  and  swings  open  to  allow  the  passage  of  vessels. 

The  *View  of  the  manufacturing  quarters  in  the  valley  from  this 
viaduct  is  very  imposing,  especially  at  night.  There  are  three  other 
similar  viaducts  at  different  parts  of  the  city  (see  PI.  D,  2;  F,  3). 

Driving  parties  may  cross  the  Viaduct  and  follow  Lakeside  Ave.  and 
Retroit  St.  to  (8  M.)  Rocky  River.,  a favourite  supper-resort  in  summer.  ^ 

A visit  may  also  be  paid  to  the  great  Oil  District  at  the  S. 
end  of  Wilson  Ave.  (comp.  PI.  G,  5),  where  the  enormous  tanks 
and  refining  works  of  the  Standard  Oil  Co.  are  situated. 


to  Chicago, 


TOLEDO. 


4:6,  Route.  333 


The  huge  Ore  Docks  of  the  Erie  R.  R.,  on  the  W.  side  of  the 
city,  sometimes  contain  2,000,000  tons.  — The  Harbour  (PI.  A, 
B,  1,  2)  and  Breakwater  (2  M.  long)  also  repay  inspection. 

Cleveland  is,  naturally,  an  important  Railway  Centre,  from  wliicli 
lines  radiate,  more  or  less  directly,  to  Pittsburg  (p.  295),  Marietta.^  Colum- 
bus (p.  326),  Cincinnati  (p.  3S4),  Toledo  (see  below),  Chicago  (p.  346),  etc.  — 
Steamers  ply  to  all  important  points  on  tbe  Great  Lakes. 

At  (208  M.)  Elyria  the  line  forks,  the  branches  reuniting  at  Mill- 
bury  (see  below).  The  chief  station  on  the  right  branch  is  (243  M.) 
Sandusky  (West  Ho..,  Sloane  Ho..,  $2-3),  with  a good  harbour,  a 
Soldiers'  Home  (visible  to  the  left),  the  State  Fish  Hatchery.,  and  a 
large  trade  in  fish  and  fruit  (see  p.  341).  Pop.  19,664.  Ileyond 
Sandusky  we  cross  the  Bay  Bridge  (4  M.  long,  including  approach- 
es), affording  a fine  view  of  the  lake.  — The  left  or  inland  line  runs 
via  (217  M.)  Oherlin  (with  a college  open  to  both  sexes,  white  or 
coloured  ; 1500  students;  good  art-collection,  bequeathed  in  1904) 
and  (238  M.)  Norwalk.  — 288  M.  Millbury. 

296  M.  Toledo  (Boody  Ho.,  $ St.  Charles,  $21/2-4,  R. 

from  $ 1 ; Madison,  Jefferson,  $ 2-3 ; Rail.  Restaurant),  a city  and 
important  railway  - centre  on  the  Maumee  River , 6 M.  from  Lake 
Erie,  with  131,822  inhab.,  has  a large  trade  in  grain,  clover-seed, 
coal,  iron  ore,  and  timber,  and  numerous  manufactures  (value  in 
1900,  $ 37,000,000).  Among  the  handsomest  of  its  buildings  are 
the  '^Public  Library  (50,000  vols.),  the  Soldiers'  Memorial,  and  the 
Toledo  Club  House.  One  of  its  new^spapers  is  named  the  Toledo 
Blade,  The  Monument  to  President  McKinley  is  by  Albert  Weinert. 
Many  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  on  the  Maumee  River. 

From  Toledo  to  Detroit,  65  M.,  railway  in  2-272  brs.  (fare  $ 1.30). 
The  chief  stations  are  (25  M.)  Monroe  and  (44  M.)  Trenton.  — 65  M.  Detroit, 
see  p.  335. 

Beyond  Toledo  the  line  forks,  the  branches  rejoining  each  other 
at  Elkhart  (see  below).  The  ‘Air  Line’  (used  by  through-trains)  en- 
ters Indiana  (‘Hoosier  State’)  at  (337  M.)  Archibald  and  runs  through 
that  state  to  (429  M.)  Elkhart.  The  ‘Old  Line’  enters  Michigan 
erine  State’)  beyond  (307  M.)  Sylvania  and  passes  (329  M.)  Adrian 
(810  ft. ; 9654  inhab.  in  1900),  the  centre  of  a rich  farming  country, 
(362  M.)  Hillsdale,  a fine  summer-resort,  (408  M.)  Sturgis  (with  the 
Lewds  Art  Gallery),  and  (420  M.)  White  Pigeon,  the  junction  of  a 
line  to  Kalamazoo,  Grand  Rapids  (p.  338),  and  Mackinaw  (p.  338). 

439  M.  Elkhart  (735  ft.;  Depot  Hotel,  $ 21/2;  Rail.  Restaurant) 
is  a busy  little  city,  with  15,184  inhabitants.  454  M.  South  Bend 
(725  ft.;  Oliver,  $21/2-5;  Sheridan,  Johnson,  $2),  a city  with 
36,000  inhab.,  on  the  St.  Josephs  River,  is  known  for  its  carriages 
and  wagons  (Studebaker’s  wmrks).  — 481  M.  La  Porte  (Teegarden 
Ho.,  $ 2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a little  town,  with  7113  inhab.,  hand- 
some buildings , and  brisk  industries , lies  near  a chain  of  small 
lakes  ( Clear,  Stone,  Pine  Lakes),  which  afford  pleasant  excursions 
(hotels,  $11/2-2;  small  steamers).  La  Porte  is  the  junction  of  a 


FORT  WAYNE. 


From  Buffalo 


B34:  Route  d6. 


line  to  Indianapolis  (p.  378).  491  M.  Otis.  Lake  Michigan  (p.  342) 
soon  comes  into  sight  on  the  right,  and  we  enter  Illinois  (‘Prairie 
State’)  at  (499  M.)  Chesterton.  Various  surburban  stations  are 
passed  before  we  reach  the  La  Salle  St.  Station  at  — 

540 M.  Chicago  (see  p.  346). 


b.  Vik  New  York,  Chicago,  and  St.  Louis  Railroad. 

623  M.  Railway  C Nickel  Plate  Line')  in  15-19  lirs.  (fare  $ 12  ^ sleeper 
or  parlour-car  $ 3).  ' 

Buffalo.,  see  p.  239.  As  far  as  (184  M.)  Cleveland  (p.  330)  this 
line  runs  parallel  with  the  one  above  described  and  passes  the  same 
stations.  Beyond  Cleveland  it  follows  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie  pretty 
closely.  210  M.  Lorain.,  the  junction  of  a line  to  Elyria  (p.  333). 
Beyond  (221  M.)  Vermillion  the  line  bends  to  the  left  and  runs  in- 
land. 240  M.  Kimball;  248  M.  Bellevue  (Rail.  Restaurant);  260  M. 
Green  Springs  (Oak  Ridge,  $21/2),  with  copious  sulphur  springs; 
280  M.  Fostoria,  the  junction  of  several  railways ; 286  M.  Arcadia 
(carriages  changed  for  points  on  Lake  Erie  & Western  R.  R.)  ; 300  M. 
McComb;  310  M.  Leipsic  Junction^  for  a line  to  Dayton  and  Cincin- 
nati. Beyond  (349  M.)  Payne  we  enter  Indiana. 

371  M.  Fort  Wayne (775  ft.;  Aveime  Ho..,  Wayne  Ho.,  $2^ 1 2-^^ 1 2'^ 
Rail.  Restaurant),  an  industrial  city  of  45,115  inhab.,  on  the  Maumee 
River,  here  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Joseph  and  the  St. 
Mary,  occupies  the  site  of  an  old  fort  (first  built  in  1764),  which 
plays  a considerable  part  in  Colonial  history.  It  is  a railway-centre 
of  great  importance  (comp.  p.  326).  — Near  (424  M.)  Tippecanoe 
Gen.  Harrison  (‘Old  Tippecanoe’)  defeated  Tecumseh,  at  the  head 
of  the  Miamis  and  Shawnees,  in  1812.  — 477  M.  Valparaiso,  with 
a normal  school  and  business  college  attended  by  4000  students 
and  having  a medical  department  in  Chicago.  — Farther  on  we 
enter  Illinois.  514  M.  Grand  Crossing;  5I6V2  M.  Englewood;  522  M. 
Thirty-First  Street  (Chicago). 

523  M.  Chicago  (Grand  Central  Station),  see  p.  346. 


c.  Via  Michigan  Central  Railroad. 

536  M Railway  (North  Shore  Line  or  Niagara  Falls  Route')  in  j3-16  brs. 
(fare  $ 13;  parlour-car  or  sleeper  $3).  This  line  runs  on  the  N.  side  of 
Lake  Erie,  through  the  Canadian  province  of  Ontario  It  affords  a good 
view  of  Niagara  Falls  (see  below).  Luggage  checked  to  United  States 
points  is  not  examined^  small  packages  examined  in  crossing  the  Canti- 
lever Bridge  (p.  253). 

Buffalo,  see  p.  239.  The  train  descends  along  the  right  bank 
of  the  Niagara  River  (comp.  p.  242)  to  (22 M.)  Niagara  Falls,  N.  Y. 
(p.  250),  and  (24  M.)  Suspension  Bridge  (p.  247).  It  then  crosses 
the  river  by  the  ^Cantilever  Bridge  described  at  p.  253  (*View  of 
rapids)  to  (241/2  m.)  Niagara  Falls,  Ontario  (p.  339).  Thence  it 
runs  to  the  S.,  along  the  Victoria  Park  (p.  252),  to  (251/2  M.)  Victoria 
Park  and  (27  M.)  Falls  View,  where  all  trains  stop  five  minutes 
to  allow  passengers  to  enjoy  the  splendid  *View  of  Niagara  Falls 


G^tfaven>| 


<BayCy  PMi-uron 


-JcJep 


Eiistern.  Conti 


1:36.000 


.70^ 


Warner  ftDeTies’  Geog^^Estabt^  Leipzig. 


to  Chicago. 


DETROIT. 


46.  Route.  335 


(p.  249).  We  then  turn  to  the  right  (W.).  38  M.  Welland,  a small 
town  with  3000  inhah.,  lies  on  the  Welland  Ship  Canal  (27  M.  long) 
uniting  Lake  Ontario  with  Lake  Erie.  It  is  the  junction  of  a direct 
line  to  Buffalo  and  of  a line  to  Hamilton  and  Toronto.  791/2 
Hagersville.  — 139  M.  St.  Thomas  (Grand  Central,  $2-2V2;  Rail. 
Restaurant,  meal  75  c.,  very  fair),  a thriving  town  with  12,500  in- 
hab.,  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Toronto,  London  (p.  340),  St.  Clair 
(p.  338),  and  Port  Stanley,  the  last,  the  chief  harbour  on  the  N.  side 
of  Lake  Erie,  lying  8 M.  to  the  S.  — 194  M.  Fargo;  220 M.  Comber; 
234  M.  Essex.  At  (250  M.)  Windsor  (Crawford  Ho.,  $3;  British 
American  Hotel,  $ 2)  the  train  is  run  on  to  a large  steam-ferry  and 
carried  across  the  Detroit  River  to  (2ol  M.)  Detroit. 

Detroit.  — Railway  Stations.  Central  Station  (Mich.  Cen.  R.  R.) 
cor.  of  Third  and  River  Sts.  Union  Station  (Wabash,  Detroit  Southern, 
Pere  Marquette,  and  Can.  Pac.  railways),  cor.  of  Third  and  Fort  Sts. 
Brush  Street  Station,  at  the  foot  of  Brush  St.,  for  the  Grand  Trunk  and 
Lake  Shore  & Mich.  Southern  railways. 

Hotels.  -Cadillac  (PL  a^C,  4),  Michigan  Ave.,  $3-8^  Russell  House 
(Pl.b:  C,4),  Campus  Martins,  $3-6,  R.  from  1V2^  Ste.  Claire  (Pl.c;  C,3,4), 
cor.  of  Randolph  St.  and  Monroe  Ave.,  $ 2V2-3V2,  R*  from  $ 1;  The  Wayne 
(PL  d;  B,  4),  opposite  the  M.  C.  R.  R.  Depot,  $2-3V2,  R-  from  $ 1;  Gris- 
wold (PL  e-,  C,  4),  cor.  of  Griswold  St.  and  Washington  Ave.^  Normandie 
(Pl.f;  C,4),  from  $2,  R.  from  $ 1;  Gies  (Pl.g^  C,  4),  Oriental  (Pl.h;  C,3,4^ 
with  good  Turkish  baths),  Metropole  (PL  i^  C,  4),  these  three  commercial. 
— Swan's  Restaurant.,  87  Woodward  Ave.  ^ 

Electric  Tramways  traverse  the  principal  streets  (5  c.)  and  run  to  var- 
ious neighbouring  points.  — Cabs : drive  within  the  city  limits,  up  to 
V2M.,  Ipers.  25  c.,  within  2 M.  50  c.,  3 M.  75  c.;  first  hour  1-4  pers.  $ IV2, 
each,  addit.  hr.  $1;  fare  and  a half  between  11p.m.  and  5 a.m.;  trunk 
over  50  lbs.  25  c. 

Ferries  ply  from  the  foot  of  Woodward  Ave.  to  Belle  Isle  and  to 
Windsor  every  V4  br.,  and  to  Amherstlurg  and  Bois  Blanc  Parle  at  9 a.m. 
and  3.30  p.m.,  and  from  the  foot  of  Joseph  Campau  Ave.  to  Belle  Isle  and 
to  Walkerville  every  ^/2  hr.  — Steamboats  ply  to  Put-in-Bay  Islands  (p.  34il), 
St.  Clair.,  Cleveland,  Buffalo,  Port  Huron,  SauU  Ste.  Marie,  Mackinaw,  and 
other  points  on  the  Great  Lakes. 

Theatres.  Detroit  Opera  House,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Campus  Martius 
(PI.  C,  4);  Avenue,  Jefferson  and  Woodward  Aves.,  Temple,  Monroe  Ave., 
two  vaudeville  houses. 

Post  Office  (PI.  C,  4),  Fort  St.  West,  corner  of  Shelby  St. 

Detroit  (580  ft.),  tbe  chief  city  of  Michigan,  with  (1900) 
285,700  inhab.,  is  situated  18  M.  from  Lake  Erie,  on  the  N.W.  bank 
of  the  Detroit  River,  which  connects  that  lake  with  the  small  Lake 
St.  Clair  (530  ft.),  just  above  the  city,  and  so  with  Lake  Huron 
(p.  341).  It  is  a well-built  town,  with  numerous  trees,  carries  on  a 
large  traffic  in  grain,  wool,  pork,  and  copper,  and  has  many  important 
manufactures.  Most  of  its  streets  (which  are  notable  for  their  clean- 
liness) are  laid  out  on  the  rectangular  plan,  but  several  avenues 
radiate  from  a centre  like  the  spokes  of  a wheel.  The  city  is  lighted 
by  electricity  by  a system  of  lofty  steel  towers  (150-175  ft.  high). 

The  ,si!e  of  Detroit  was  visited  by  Frenchmen  in  1670  and  1679  (La 
Salle),  and  in  1701  the  Sieur  de  la  Motte  Cadillac  (p.  134)  founded  Fort 
Pontchartrain  here.  In  1760  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  English,  and 
in  1763-C6  it  was  successfully  defended  for  15  months  against  the  Indian 


336  Uoute  46. 


DETROIT. 


From  Buffalo 


chief  Pontiac.  It  was  nominally  ceded  to  the  United  States  in  1783,  hut 
the  Americans  did  not  become  masters  of  it  till  179(3.  The  fort  was  taken 
by  the  British  in  1812  and  retaken  by  the  Americans  in  1813.  Detroit 
was  incorporated  as  a city  in  1824,  with  about  1500  inhabitants.  In  1850 
the  population  was  21,019,  in  1880  it  was  134,834,  in  1890  it  was  203,876. 

Some  idea  of  the  volume  of  traffic  on  the  Great  Lakes  may  be 
gathered  from  the  fact  that  at  least  60,000  vessels  pass  Detroit  yearly  in 
the  seven  months  during  which  navigation  is  open,  carrying  about  50  million 
tons  of  freight. 

The  staples  of  its  manufactures,  the  value  of  which  in  1900  was  over 
$ 1(X),000,000  (20,000,0(X)^.),  are  iron  and  steel  goods,  cars  and  car-wheels, 
stoves  (150,000  annually),  drugs,  confectionery,  fur,  salt,  and  tobacco. 

The  huge  soda  ash  plants  of  the  JSolvay  Process  Go.^  J.  B.  Ford  & Go.., 
and  the  Michigan  Alkali  Go.^  taking  advantage  of  the  immense  deposits  of 
salt  in  this  locality  and  the  near  proximity  of  good  limestone,  are  situated 
on  the  river  just  below  the  city. 

The  finest  private  art-gallery  in  Detroit  is  the  Whistler  Gollection  of 
Mr.  Charles  L.  Freer,  33  Ferry  Ave.,  which  the  owner  is  willing  to  show 
to  those  really  interested. 

Woodward  Avenue  (PI.  A-C,  1-4),  running  N.W.  from  the  river 
and  dividing  the  city  into  two  nearly  equal  parts,  is  the  main  busi- 
ness thorough-fare  and  the  chief  centre  of  life.  Most  of  the  principal 
buildings  are  on  or  near  it.  Near  its  foot  (S.E.  end)  are  the  chief 
Steamboat  Wharves  and  the  Ferry  to  Windsor  (p.  335;  PI.  C,  4). 
About  1/2  M.  from  the  river  the  street  expands  into  the  Campus 
Martius  (PI.  0,  4),  adorned  with  a handsome  fountain,  from  which 
Michigan  and  Gratiot  Avenues  diverge  to  the  left  and  right.  To  the 
left  stands  the  City  Hall  (PI.  C,  4;  to  be  remodelled),  the  tower 
(view)  of  which  contains  a clock  with  a dial  872  ft*  in  diameter.  In 
front  of  the  City  Hall  is  the  Soldiers'  Monument.^  by  Randolph  Rogers, 
and  in  front  of  the  Opera  House  (p.  335)  is  a Bust  of  ex-Governor 
Bagley.  At  the  corner  of  Woodward  Ave.  rises  the  tall  Majestic 
Building  (PI.  C,  4;  fine  view  from  the  roof,  10  c.). 

In  Gratiot  Ave.,  near  the  Campus  Martius,  is  the  Public  Library 
(PI.  C,  4),  containing  180,000  vols.  and  some  historical  relics.  At  the 
corner  of  Griswold  St.  (running  parallel  with  Woodward  Ave.  on  the  W.) 
and  Grand  River  Ave.  is  the  Young  Men  s Ghristian  Association  (PI.  C,  4). 
The  Chamber  oj  Commerce  (PI.  C,  4),  at  the  corner  of  Griswold  and  State 
Sts.,  is  13  stories  high.  — The  Post  Office  (PI.  C,  4),  in  Fort  St.,  adjoining 
the  site  of  the  old  Fort  Lernovlt.,  is  a handsome  building.  The  evacuation 
of  Fort  Lernoult  by  the  British  on  July  11th,  1796,  was  the  closing  act 
of  the  War  of  Independence  (memorial  tablet). 

Just  to  the  E.  of  the  Campus  Martius,  in  the  block  bounded  by  Congress, 
Fort,  Brush,  and  Randolph  Sts.,  stands  the  *County  Building  (PI.  C,  4).  It  is 
in  a plain  Renaissance  style  with  a Corinthian  portico  over  the  main  entrance, 
sculptures  in  the  pediment,  and  a tower  surmounted  by  a gilded  dome. 

A little  farther  on  Woodward  Ave.  reaches  Grand  Circus  Park 
(PI.  B,  C,  3),  a square  with  trees  and  fountains.  At  the  corner  of 
Edmund  Place,  1/2  M.  farther  on,  are  the  * First  Unitarian  and  First 
Presbyterian  Churches  (PL  B,  3),  two  fine  Romanesque  buildings  of 
red  stone.  To  the  right,  at  the  head  of  Martin  Place,  is  the  hand- 
some Harper  Hospital  (PI.  B,  2) ; and  Grace  Hospital  (PI.  B,  2)  is 
also  seen  to  the  right  (cor.  of  Willis  Ave.  and  John  R.  St.)  a little 
farther  on.  To  the  left,  a little  higher  up,  is  the  Detroit  Athletic 
Club  (PI.  B,  2;  Nos.  833-865).  The  N.  end  of  Woodward  Avenue 


to  Chicago.  DETROIT.  46.  Route.  337 

and  the  adjoining  streets  form  the  principal  residence-quarter  of 
the  town. 

Jefferson  Avenue  (PI.  O-F,  2-4),  which  runs  at  right  angles 
to  Woodward  Ave.,  crossing  it  1/5  M.  from  the  river,  contains  many  of 
the  chief  wholesale  houses,  and  towards  its  N.E.  end  has  also  many 
pleasant  residences.  The  site  of  Fort  Pontchartrain  (p.  336)  was  at  the 
corner  of  Jefferson  Ave.  and  Griswold  St.,  two  squares  to  the  W.  of 
Woodward  Ave.  (memorial  tablet  on  the  Griswold  St.  side  of  the 
office  of  the  Michigan  Mutual  Life  Insurance  Co.).  To  the  E.,  on  the  left 
side  of  the  street,  are  the  R.C.  Cathedral  ofSS.  Peter  and  Paul  and  the 
Jesuit  College  (C,  D,  4),  and  on  the  right  side  the  Academy  of  the  Sacred 
Heart  (PI.  0,  4).  On  the  same  side,  at  the  corner  of  Jefferson  Ave. 

- and  Hastings  St.,  about  1/2  M.  to  the  E.  of  Woodward  Ave.,  stands  the 
'‘^Museum  of  Art  (PI.  D,  4 ; Sun.  and  Mon.,  2-4,  other  days,  9-4,  free). 

The  chief  contents  of  the  Museum  are  the  Scripps  Collection  of  Old 
Masters  and  the  Stearns  Collection  of  Japanese.^  Chinese.,  and  East  Indian 
Curiosities.  The  former  contains  a painting  by  Eubens  (David  and  Abigail), 
pen-and-ink  drawings  by  Raphael  and  Michael  Angelo^  and  works  ascribed 
to  Lippi.,  Pinturicchio.,  Masaccio.,  BelUni.,  Da  Vinci.,  Matsys.,  Titian.,  Del  Sarto, 
Correggio,  Carracci,  Guido  Reni,  Cuyp,  Rembrandt,  Teniers,  Murillo,  Corn,  de 
Vos,  De  Hoogh,  etc. 

At  Nos.  1022-1056  Jefferson  Ave.,  near  Elmwood  St.,  are  the  large 
Michigan  Stove  Works  (PI.  E,  3). 

In  Atwater  St.,  near  this  point,  is  the  huge  Drug  Manufactory  of 
Messrs.  Parke,  Davis,  <lk  Co.  (PI.  E,  3).  From  the  foot  of  Campau  Ave.  (PL  E 3) 
a ferry  runs  to  Walkerville,  with  its  large  distilleries.  ’ ’ 

About  3 M.  from  Woodward  Ave.  we  reach  the  bridge  crossing 
an  arm  of  the  river  to  ^Belle  Isle  (PI.  F,  3,  4,  and  inset-plan),  which 
is  about  700  acres  in  extent  and  forms  a beautiful  public  park,  with 
fine  trees  and  still  retaining  many  of  its  natural  features  unimpaired. 
It  contains  a small  Zoological  Collection  and  a large  Aquarium.  In 
summer  park- carriages  take  visitors  round  for  a small  fee.  Fine  view 
of  Lake  St.  Clair  from  its  E.  end.  The  Detroit  Boat  Club  here  has  the 
finest  boathouse  in  the  country,  an  artistic  building  of  brick  and  cement 
(1902),  which  cost  $80,000  (visitors  welcome).  Ferries,  see  p.  335. 

Among  other  points  of  interest  in  Detroit  are  ^Elmwood  Cemetery 
(PI.  E,  2),  in  the  E.  part  of  the  city,  about  1/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of 
Jefferson  Ave.;  Fort  Wayne,  on  the  river,  31/2  M.  to  the  S.W.  of 
Woodward  Ave.  (tramway  through  Fort  St.),  garrisoned  by  a few 
companies  of  U.  S.  troops;  Water  Works  Park  (beyond  PI.  F,  2),  on 
the  river,  about  4 M.  from  the  centre  of  the  city;  Palmer  Park  (bey. 
PI.  A,  1),  about  5 M.  out  along  Woodward  Ave.;  and  Clark  Park, 
a piece  of  original  forest  in  the  W.  part  of  the  city.  — A wide 
Boulevard  has  been  constructed  round  the  entire  city,  beginning 
and  ending  at  the  river-front. 

In  summer  Detroit  forms  an  admirable  centre  for  water  and  otker 
excursions.  — To  the  N.  lies  the  beautiful  Lake  District  of  Oakland  County, 
easily  reached  by  the  Detroit  & Pontiac  Trolley  Line  in  IV4-IV2  hr  The 
terminus  of  this  line  is  (25  M.  5 fare  25  c.)  Pontiac,  about  6 M.  from  which 
IS  Orchard  Lake,  the  chief  resort  of  the  district.  — Among  other  favourite 
resorts  are  Grosse  Pointe  (with  country  club  and  golf  links),  on  Lake 

Baedekek’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  02 


MACKINAC  ISLAND.  From  Buffalo 


338  Route  46. 


St.  Clair  9 M.  to  ihe  E.,  with  the  country-houses  of  inauy  of  the  citizens  j 
St'  Clair  Flat f..,  a shooting  and  fishing  resort,  with  its  hotels  and  cottages 
built  on  piles*,  Windsor  (p.  335);  Me.  Clemens  (see  below;  also  reached  by 
trolley-line,  passing  the  curious  Grotto  of  theVir gin.,  7M.  from  Detroit) ; St.Clair 
Springs  (Somerville,  $272-5;  Oakland,  from  $3);  Kingsville  (Ont  ),  on  the 
N.  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  30  M.  from  Detroit;  and  Put-in-Bay  Islands  (p.  341). 

From  Detroit  to  Toledo.,  see  p.  333. 

From  Detroit  to  Lansing  ' and  Grand  Rapids,  153  M.,  railway  (Pere 
Marquette)  in  4-5  hrs.  — 23  M.  Plymouth.  — 85  M.  Lansing  {Downey,  $ 2-372; 
Hudson,  $2-272),  the  capital  of  Michigan,  is  a manufacturing  city  of  (1900) 
16  485  inhab.,  on  the  Grand  River.  Adjoining  the  Capitol  is  a statue  of 
Gov  Austin  Blair,  erected  in  1898.  — 150  M.  Grand  Rapids  {Morton  Ho., 
$272-4;  Livingston,  $ 272-472),  a busy  city  of  (1900)  87,565  inhab.,  with  fine 
water-power  afforded  by  a fall  of  18  feet  on  the  Grand  River  (value  of 
manufactures  in  1900,  $25,000,000). 

From  Detroit  to  Port  Huron,  59  M. , railway  in  13/4hr.  — 22  M. 
Mt.  Clemens  (Avery,  $ 3-5;  Egnew,  Park,  $ 2-4).  - 59  M.  Port  Huron  (p.  340). 

From  Detroit  to  Mackinaw  City  (Mackinac  Island),  291  M.,  railway 
in  9 hrs.  — This  railway  traverses  nearly  the  entire  length  of  Michigan 
from  S.  to  N.,  passing  through  one  of  the  greatest  ‘lumbering’  regions  in 
America.  60  M.  Lapeer;  87  M.  Vassar,  the  junction  of  a line  to  (22  M.) 
Saginaw  City  (42,345  inhab.  in  1900).  — 108  M.  Bay  City  {Fraser  Ho.,  $ 272-8), 
situated  near  the  point  where  the  Saginaw  empties  into  Saginaw  Bay,  with 
(1900)  27,628  inhab.  and  a large  trade  in  timber,  fish,  and  salt.  --  142  M. 
Alger  • 228  M.  Gaylord.  — 291  M.  Mackinaw  City  (Wentworth,  $ 2),  with 
(1900)* 564  inhab.,  lies  at  the  N.  extremity  of  Michigan,  on  the  Straits  of 
Mackinac  (4  M.  wide),  which  connect  Lake  Michigan  (p.  342)  and  Lake  Huron 
(p.341).  Steamers  run  hence,  in  connection  with  the  trains,  to  Ignace 
(p.  372),  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Straits,  and  to  (8  M.)  Mackinac  Island 
(see  below),  while  others  run  to  Sault-Ste- Marie  (p.  374),  Manistique,^  etc. 

’'•Mackinac  Island,  a rocky  and  wooded  little  islet,  9 M.  in  circum- 
ference, contains  a good  deal  of  picturesque  scenery  in  its  narrow  limits 
and  has  become  a favourite  place  of  summer-resort.  Its  fresh  breezes, 
clear  water,  excellent  fishing,  and  romantic  legends  are  additional  attrac- 
tions On  the  S.  side  of  the  island  lies  the  picturesque  village  of  Mackinac, 
with  665  inhabitants.  On  the  cliff  above  it  stands  Fort  Mackinac,  and  a 
little  farther  inland  are  the  ruins  of  Fort  Holmes  (300  feet ; 'Views), 
by  the  British.  The  largest  hotel  on  the  island  is  the  Grand  Hotel 
(1300  beds;  $372-5),  on  a bluff  near  the  village;  and  good  accommodation 
may  also  be  obtained  at  the  Astor  House  ($272-3),  the  Mission  House  {^  6), 
fhQ  Murray  ($2-3),  the  Island  House  ($272-4),  the  Mackinac  and 

other  smaller  inns  and  boarding-houses.  Among  the  chief  points  of  interest 
on  the  island  are  the  ^Arch  Rock,  on  the  E.  side,  150  ft.  high;  the  Lover  s 
Leap,  145  ft.  high ; Rohertson^s  Folly,  the  GianCs  Causeway,  Sugar  Loaf 
Rock!  ScoWs  Cave,  the  British  Landing  (1812),  etc.  Excursions  may  be 
made  to  St.  Ignace  (p.  372),  the  Cheneaux  Islands,  Bois  Blanc  etc. 

A steamboat  tour  round  the  island  should  also  be  made.  The  island 
was  frequently  yisited  by  the  early  French  travellers  and  remained  in 
possession  of  France  from  1610  to  1761,  when  it  was  ceded  to  Great 
Britain.  It  came  into  the  hands  of  the  United  States  in  1796,  was  taken 
by  the  English  in  1812,  and  was  restored  to  the  United  States  in  l^o- 
The  Astor  House  (see  above)  was  the  headquarters  of  the  Astor  Fur  Go., 
founded  by  John  Jacob  Astor,  in  1809-50.  Comp,  the  Annals  of  Fort 
Mackinac’,  by  D.  H.  Kelton,  and  ‘Anne’,  by  Constance  Fenimore  Woolson.  — - 
Mackinac  Island  is  also'  reached  from  Detroit  by  steamer. 

From  Detroit  to  Cincinnati,  263  M.,  railway  in  7-8  hrs  The  chief  inter- 
mediate stations  are  (60  M.)  Toledo  (p.  333),  Zma  (131  M.),  Daymen  (204  M.; 
p.  345),  and  Hamilton  (237  M. ; p.  379).  — 263  M.  Cincinnati,  see  p.  384. 

From  Detroit  to  Columbus,  184  M.,  railway  in  9 hrs.  We  diverge 
from  the  above  line  at  (60  31.)  Toledo,  and  follow  the  Hocking  \ alley  Rail- 
way. — 184  M.  Columbus,  see  p.  327. 


to  Chicago. 


ANN  ARBOR. 


dS.,  Route.  339 


Beyond  Detroit  the  line  runs  almost  due  W.,  across  tlie  State  of 
Michigan.  2681/2  M.  Wayne  Junction;  2801/2  M.  Ypsilanti,  a paper- 
making town  of  (1900)  7378  inhah.,  on  the  Huron  River,  which  we 
now  follow.  — 288  M.  Ann  Arbor  (770  ft.;  American,  $ 2-3;  Cook 
Hotel,  from  $2;  New  Arlington,  $2),  a flourishing,  tree-shaded  city 
of  (1900)  14,500  inhah.,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Huron  River, 
is  the  seat  of  the  University  op  Michigan,  founded  in  1837. 

important  educational  institutes  in 
the  United  States,  is  attended  by  about  4000  students,  of  whom  1/5  or  Vg 
are  women.  It  differs  from  tbe  large  Eastern  universities  in  being  a State 
institution.  It  is  richly  endowed  and  has  several  fine  buildings,  good 
museums  and  laboratories,  and  a library  of  about  175,000  volumes. 

Ann  Arbor  is  also  connected  with  Detroit  by  electric  tramway  (fare  50  c.). 

327  M.  Jackson  (925  ft.;  Hibbard,  Ruhl,  $2-3),  an  industrial 
town  on  the  Grand  River,  has  (1900)  25,180  inhah.,  and  is  the  seat 
of  the  state-prison,  which,  with  its  central  tower,  may  be  seen  to 
the  right.  It  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Lansing  (p.  338),  Grand 
Rapids  (p.  338),  etc.  Beyond  (337  M.)  Parma  we  follow  the  wheat- 
growing valley  of  the  Kalamazoo  River.  348  M.  Albion;  359  M. 
Marshall.  372  M.  Battle  Creek  is  famous  for  its  manufactories  of  cereal 
foods  (Force,  Korn  Krisp,  etc.),  a visit  to  which  is  of  some  interest. 

(Burdick  Ho.,  $ 21/2-3),  an  agricultural  centre  with 
(1900)  24,404  inhab.  and  a Baptist  College  (175  students),  is  the  junc- 
tion of  lines  to  Grand  Rapids  (p.  338)  and  South  Haven  (with  inter- 
esting factories  for  making  crates  and  baskets).  — Our  line  now  runs 

(^‘^87  inhab. 

in  1900).  469  M.  New  Buffalo.  We  now  enter  Indiana  and  have 

Lake  Michigan  to  the  right.  479  M.  Michigan  City,  with  the  state- 
prison  for  N.  Indiana;  500  M.  Lake.  Beyond  (515  M.)  Hammond 
we  enter  Illinois.  522  M.  Kensington;  530  M.  Hyde  Park. 

536  M.  Chicago  (Illinois  Central  Station),  see  R.  48. 


d.  Via,  Grand  Trunk  Railway. 

541  M.  Eailwat  in  15-18  hrs.  (fares  as  atove).  This  line  passes  through 
Oift  of  the  province  of  Ontario,  one  of  the  most  fertile 

aistr.cts  in  Canada.  — Hand-baggage  examined  in  crossing  the  Niagara  and 
St.  Clair  Elvers.  - For  fuller  details,  see  Baedeker's  Canada. 

^ From  Buffalo  (p.  239)  we  proceed  to  (24  M.)  Suspension  Bridge 
either  hy  the  N.  V.  C.  & H.  R.  R.  R.  or  the  Erie  R.  R.  Thence  we 
cross  the  river  by  the  Lower  Steel  Arch  Bridge  (p.  253).  From  the 
Canadian  village  of  (241/4  M.)  Niagara  Falls  (Kail.  Restaurant)  the 
line  runs  almost^  due  W.  At  (34  M.)  Merritton  we  pass  through  a 
tunnel  below  the  Welland  Ship  Canal  (p.  335),  the  vessels  in  which 
may  be  seen  sailing  above  our  beads  as  we  emerge.  — 36  M, 
St.  Catharine" s (Welland,  $2),  a town  of  9946  inbab.,  on  tbe  Welland 
Lanai,  with  mineral  springs.  Lake  Ontario  is  now  often  in  view  to 
the  right.  5U  M.  Grimsby  Park,  with  a Methodist  camp-meeting  ground, 
district  producing  abundance  of  peaches  and  other  fruit. 

68  M.  Hamilton  (255  ft. ; Royal,  $ 21/2-4 ; Waldorf,  $ 2-3 ; Revere, 

22* 


340  Route  46. 


PORT  HURON. 


From  Buffalo 


St.  Nicholas,  $ 2;  Rail.  Restaurant)^  finely  situated  at  tlie  W.  end  of 
Lake  Ontario,  a busy  industrial  and  commercial  city  of  48,980  inhab., 
is  tbe  junction  of  tbe  railway  to  Toronto,  wMcb  may  also  be  reached 
by  steamer.  — 87  M.  Harrisburg  (735  ft.),  tbe  junction  of  various 
lines;  115  M.  Woodstock  (960  ft.). 

144 M. London  (805ft.;  Tecumseh Ho..,  $2-3]  Origg  Ho.^  $11/2-2; 
Rail.  Restaurant).^  an  important  agricultural  and  railway  centre,  with 
37,981  inbab.  and  a considerable  trade.  — 203  M.  Sarnia  (Bell 
Cbamber,  Yendome,  $2),  on  Lake  Huron,  with  8176  inbabitants. 
We  now  pass  from  Canada  to  tbe  United  States  (Michigan)  by  a 
*Tunnel^  II/0  M.  long,  under  tbe  St.  Clair  River. 

This  was  constructed  in  1889-90  at  a cost,  including  approaches,  of 
$2,7GO,000  (540,000  ?.).  It  consists  of  a cast-iron  tube,  with  an  inside  dia- 
naeter  of  20  ft.,  and  was  designed  by  Mr.  Joseph  Hobson. 

Central  time  is  now  tbe  standard.  203  M.  Port  Huron  (Harring- 
ton., $21/2-31/2;  Huron  Beach  Hotel;  Rail.  Restaurant),  with  (1900) 
19,158  inbab.,  lies  on  Lake  Huron,  at  tbe  mouth  of  tbe  Black  River, 
and  carries  on  a trade  of  considerable  importance  (lumber,  fish,  etc.). 
Tbe  train  now  runs  to  tbe  S.W.  through  Michigan.  251  M.  Lapeer 
(p.  338).  From  (288  M.)  Durand  (Rail.  Restaurant)  a line  diverges 
to  Grand  Haven,  on  Lake  Michigan,  whence  a steamer  plies  to  Mil- 
waukee  (p.  359).  320  M.  Lansing  (p.  338) ; 365  M.  Battle  Creek  (p.  339 ; 
Rail,  Restaurant);  396  M.  Schoolcraft;  442  M.  South  Bend  (p.  333); 
485  M.  Valparaiso  (p.  334);  521  M.  Blue  Island  Junction. 

541  M.  Chicago  (Dearborn  Station),  see  R.  48. 


e.  By  Steamer. 

It  is  possible  to  go  the  whole  way  from  Buffalo  to  Chicago  by  water, 
through  Lakes  Erie,  Huron,  and  Michigan,  without  change  of  steamer^ 
— The  ‘North  Land’  and  ‘North  West’,  the  two  magnificent  steamers  of 
the  Northern  Steamship  Co.  (each  3S6  ft.  long,  of  5000  tons  burden,  and 
accommodating  500  passengers),  leave  Buffalo  (w’^harf  at  foot  of  Main  St.) 
every  Wed.  and  Sat.  in  summer  at  8 p.m.  (central  time).  The  ‘North 
Land’  goes  through  to  Chicago,  which  it  reaches  on  Sat.  at  1 p.m.  •,  the 
‘North  West’  goes  to  (3  days)  Dtiluth  (comp.  p.  372),  and  Chicago  passengers 
must  change  at  (IV2  day)  Mackinac  Island.  Through  - fare  to  Chicago 
S 13.50,  berths  extra  (to  Mackinac  from  $ 3 up).  Luggage  up  to  150  lbs.  is 
free.  Fares  to  Cleveland,  $2.50^  to  Detroit,  $4.75;  to  Mackinac  Island, 
$ 8.50;  to  Sault-Ste- Marie,  $10.75;  to  Duluth,  $17.50.  These  steamers  are 
admirably  appointed  in  every  way  and  afford  most  comfortable  quarters. 
The  Northern  S.S.  Co.  works  in  connection  with  the  Great  Northern  Rail- 
way and  offers  a large  choice  of  circular  and  other  tours  by  land  and 
water.  — At  Mackinac  Island  (see  above)  Chicago  passengers  on  the  ‘North 
West’  change  to  the  steamer  ‘Manitou’  (3000  tons)  of  the  Manitou  Steam- 
ship Co.,  which  reaches  the  ‘Windy  City’  in  one  day  more  (from  Buffalo 
2V2  days;  meals  on  ‘Manitou’  a la  carte,  berth  from  $ 1).  As  the  ‘Manitou’ 
does  not  call  at  Milwaukee,  passengers  for  that  city  are  sent  on  from  Chicago 
by  the  Goodrich  Line  without  extra  charge. 

The  steamers  of  the  Anchor  Line  (‘Tionesta’  the  best)  leave  Buffalo 
(Atlantic  Dock,  foot  of  Evans  St.)  once  or  twice  weekly  between  May  1st 
and  Oct.  1st  for  Duluth,  which  they  reach  in  about  4 days  (through- fare,  in- 
cluding berth  and  meats,  $ 27).  They  call  at  Erie,  Cleveland,  Detroit,  Mackinac 


to  Chicago. 


LAKE  ERIE. 


46.  Route.  341 


Island,  Sault-Sie- Marie,  Marquette,  Houghton,  and  Hancock.  At  Sault  Sfp 
Mane  they  connect  with  atearaers  for  Milwaukee  (1  day)  Chicago  Tthroueh* 
fare  from  Buffalo^  $ 24.20,  inch  meals  and  berth).  If  the  steamer  ‘Maniton’ 
IS  taken  at  Mackinac  Island  the  through-fare  is  $22  not  inplnHino-  ma  i 
or  berths  between  Mackinac  and  Chicto.  ’ including  meals 

Even  if  he  has  not  time  for  the  whole  voyage,  the  traveller  who 
bv  watt"  g .be  glad  to  make  part’at  1 tsrof  the 

on  'i?  “*®  fl>-s‘-class  passengers 

on  application.  Warm  wraps  should  be  taken  even  in  midsummer  ® 

^be  commerce  carried  on  by  the  Great  Lakes  niav  h<a 
gathered  from  the  fact  that  they  are  regularly  traversed  by  a fleet  of  6000 
vessels  of  li/j-S  million  tons’  burden  and  manned  by  40,000  men  fall  this  ex 
elusive  of  fishing-smacks,  etc.).  New  vessels  are  h,,m  -k 

burden  of  about  120,000  tons..  Comp,  pp  331,  ^o!  a 

Buffalo,  see  p.  239.  The  steamer  plies  to  the  W.  through  Lake 
Erie,  a description  of  which  has  been  given  at  p.  240.  The  foliowing 
are  the  points  usually  called  at  by  the  steamers  of  the  Anchor  Lino 
! • ashore  is  generally  allowed  (consult  the  cap- 

tain).  [The  vessels  of  the  Northern  S.S.  Co.  touch  at  Cleveland  and 
Detroit  only  before  reaching  Mackinac.] 

80  M.  see  p.  331.  The  picturesque  harbour  is  protected  by 
Presque  Isle.  Hither  Commodore  Perry  brought  his  prizes  after  defeat- 

near  tb  ~ Beyond  Erie  the  steamer  runs 

near  the  weli-wooded  shore,  passing  Ashtabula  (p.  330). 

176  M.  Cleveland  (p.  331) , one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities 

r’  « “on®r?-,®”  *®  advantage  from  the  steamer.  The 
Garfield  Memorial  (p.  332)  is  conspicuous  as  we  approach.  Several 
hours  are  usuaHy  spent  here.  — Then  the  coast  becomes  more 
picturesque  Sandusky  (p.  333)  is  the  chief  place  passed  before 
wc  leave  Lake  Erie.  The  *Put-m-Bay  Islands,  near  the  mo.ith  of 
tbe  JJetroit,  are  a favourite  summer-resort  (several  hotels) 

Detroit  River,  which  we  ascend  on  leaving  Lake  Erie,'  is  25  M 
long  and  varies  in  width  from  4 M.  at  its  mouth  to  1/2  M.  opposite 
® OBK  J*  generally  presents  a very  animated  scene  (comp.  p.  335'> 
286  M.  Detroit,  see  p.  335.  " 

We  now  pass  EeMe  Ish  (p.  337)  by  the  Canadian  channel  and  soon 
enter  Lake  St.  Clair  (530  ft.),  a shallow  lake,  25  M.  in  diameter 
and  about  20  ft.  deep.  The  intricate  navigation  of  the  shallow 
upper  end  IS  folded  by  a canal  I1/2  M.  long.  The  lake  is  connect- 
ed  with  Lake  Huron  by  the  St.  Clair  River,  a strait  40  M.  long. 

shore^°iYl  P-  340.  Opposite,  on  the  Canadian 

at  n qin  ^®  P®®®  *®  mentioned 

^ p.  340  Between  Fort  Gratiot  and  Fort  Edward,  just  above  Port 
Huron,  the  strait  narrows  to  330  yds. 

wide^23  Kon  ®"*®^>  '®  1®“S>  50-200  M. 

wide,  23,800  sq.  M.  in  area,  680ft.  above  the  sea,  and  300-1700  ft 

storms^  TbfT*  islands,  and  is  often  visited  by  violent 

* .r  „ steamer  makes  no  stop  before  reaching  — 

often CP;  338),  where  passengers  for  Chicago 
ten  have  to  change  steamers  (hotels,  see  p.  338).  Those  who  wish 


342  Route  46. 


LAKE  MICHIGAN. 


to  go  on  at  once  take  tlie  steamer  ‘Maniton’,  wMch  makes  close  con- 
nection with  the  Buffalo  boats ; hut  there  are  several  other  steamers 
plying  regularly  between  Mackinac  Island  and  Chicago. 

The  steamer  on  which  we  have  been  travelling  hitherto  (with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  ‘North  Land’)  goes  on  through ihe  beautiful  St  Mar y^s  River 
r65  M.  long),  connecting  Lakes  Huron  and  Superior,  (b95  M.)  Sault- 
Ste-Marie  (p.  374).  Thence  it  traverses  Lake  Superior  to  (lUbO  M.  ^ 3-5  days 
from  Buffalo  according  to  steamer)  Duluth  (p.  371)  as  described  in  the 
reverse  direction  in  R.  53b. 

The  Chicago  steamer  passes  through  the  Straits  of  Mackinac 
(p  338),  and  enters  Lake  Michigan  (590  ft.  above  the  sea),  the 
largest  lake  within  the  United  States  (360  M.  long,  108  M.  wide; 
greatest  depth  900  ft.).  Some  of  the  steamers  call  en  xoute  at  — 

360  M.  (980  M.  from  Buffalo)  Milwaukee  (see  p.  359),  about 
16  hrs.  from  Mackinac,  but  the  ‘Manitom  (comp.  p.  340)  goes  direct 
to  Chicago.  — 450  M.  (1070  M.)  Chicago  (see  p.  346). 


47.  From  New  York  to  Chicago. 

a.  Yik  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburg. 

912  m.  Pennsylvania  Railroad  in  23-33  hrs.  (fare  $24,255  continuous 
passage  $205  sleeper  $5).  To  the  W.  of  Pittsburg  we  may  go  either  via 
Crestline  and  Fort  Wayne  or  via  Columbus  and  Logansport  (see  R 44). 
The  Pennsylvania  Limited  Train  on  this  route  (fare  $ 29,  ijicl.  sleeper), 
starting  from  New  York  at  10.25  a.m.  and  reaching  Chicago  at  b.2o  a.m.  (central 
time)  next  day,  consists  entirely  of  Pullman  vestibuled  cars  and  offers 
every  imaginable  comfort  to  the  traveller.  It  is  provided  with  a dmmg-car, 
a library,  a smoking  and  outlook  car,  a barber’s  shop,  a bath,  a ladies 
maid,  and  a stenographer.  Through-cars  on  the  other  trains  also. 

From  New  York  to  (90  M.)  Philadelphia,  see  E.  3i;  from 
Philadelphia  to  (444  M.)  Pittsburg,  see  R.  37 ; from  Pittsburg  to 
(912  M.)  Chicago  (Canal  St.  Station),  see  E.  44.  The  most  beautiful 
part  of  the  route  is  that  between  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburg,  most 
of  which  is  traversed  by  the  Limited  Train  by  daylight. 

b.  Vi5.  Buffalo  and  Detroit. 

There  are  various  combinations  by  which  this  route  can  be  effected. 
Through-carriages  are  run  on  the  following:  — rA/iOM 'k 

(a.)  976  M.  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River  R.  R.  to  (^0  M.) 
Buffalo  and  Michigan  Central  R.  R.  thence  to  (976  M.)  Chicago  in  24-3.^  hrs. 

(faie  $20,^^sl^ep^^$T)-g^oRE  railroad  to  (429  M.)  Buffalo  and  Wabash 
R.  R.  thence  to  (954  M.)  Chicago  in  27V2-35  hrs.  (fare  $18  5 sleeper  $ 5 5 
reclining  chair  cars  free).  Between  Suspension  Bridge  and  mndsor  (p.  343)  the 
line  is  operated  jointly  by  the  Grand  Trunk  and  Wabash  Railroac^. 

(a.)  From  NewYork  to  (440M.)  Buffalo,  seeE.28a  ; fromBuffalo 
to  (976  M.)  Chicago  (Illinois  Central  Station),  see  R.  46  c.  This  line 
affords  a good  view  of  Niagara  Falls  (see  p.  334). 

(b)  From  New  York  to  (429  M.)  Buffalo,  see  R.  28b.  Irom 
Buffalo  to  (454  M.)  Suspension  Bridge  the  Wabash  route  coincides 
with  the  Erie  line  as  described  in  R.  28  d.  Beyond  Suspension 
Bridge  it  is  parallel  with  R.  46  c.,  passing  (472  M.)  (500  M.) 

Canfield  Junction,  (529  M.)  Simcoe,  (551  M.)  Tilsonburg,  (57b  M.J 


CAMPBELL  HALL. 


47.  Route.  343 


^ TAomM,  (603  M.)  Gleneoe,  (637  M.)  Chatham,  and  (683  M) 
Wabash  R.  E runs  to  the  S.W.,  passing  through  a rich  farming 

country.  743M.  Adnara,  see  p.  333;  780M.  MowtpeOer.  The  line  now 
^rns  to  the  W.  804  M.  Ashley- Hudson;  820  M.  Wolcottville;  876  M 
North  Liberty ; 900  M WestviUe;  914  M.  Crocker;  939  M.  Engle- 
wood (p.  347).  — 964  M.  Chicago  (Dearborn  Station),  see  p.  346. 

c.  Via  Buffalo  and  Port  Huron, 

Prom  New  York  to  (463  M.)  Suspension  Bridge,  see  R.  28  e ; from 
Suspension  Bridge  to  (982 M.)  Chicago  (Dearborn  Station),  see  R.  46^ 

d.  Vi^  Buffalo  and  Cleveland. 

K.a.f,r  s “-‘■v-er; 'aifs  a 

aS  “ S 5:! 

r980®i/A““  JVem  Porfc  to  (440  M.)  Buffalo,  see  R.28a;  thence  to 
(980  M ) (^icago  (La  Salle  St.  Station),  see  R.  46  a.  This  line  runs 
along  the  S.  shore  of  Lake  Erie. 

P ^0  Buffalo,  see  R.  28b;  from 

u alo  to  (962  M.)  Chicago  (La  Salle  St.  Station),  see  R.  46  b 

Buffa'lo^fmq  m"!  pv*"  28c;  from 

Buffalo  to  (933  M.)  Chicago  (La  Salle  St.  Station),  see  R.  46c. 

e.  Vih  Oswego  and  Suspension  Bridge. 

•?  S'  "i’  ™ “■  or 

the  Central  New  England  E.  R.  (p.  193)  and  of  the  Walikill  Valiev 
Line  (for  Lake  Mohonk)  to  Kingston  Tt)  195^  RpvAnrq  ran  nr  ? 

Tf  hneVt"  rS'l'p®;  f (540  ft.),  the  junction 

Meih!  Ho^^  1600  ft  (^  ^0  Bllenville  (Mt. 

ivieenagna  Ho.,  1600  ft.  above  the  sea,  2 M.  from  the  station!  a 

summer -resort  among  the  Shawangunk  Mts.,  and  to  (35  M)  King- 


344  Route  47. 


OSWEGO. 


From  New  York 


ston  fp.  195).  We  now  skirt  the  S.W.  side  of  the  Catskills  fp.  202) 
and  begin  to  ascend  the  Delaware  Mis.  103  M.  Mountain  Dale 
TOGO  ft  • Park  Ho.,  from  $2).  — 120  M.  Liberty  (1580  ft. ; Ye  Lan- 
cashire inn,  from  $ 3 ; Wawonda,  Buckley,  Mansion  Ho.,Piney  Woods 
Inn,  $2-3),  a summer  and  winter  health-resort,  with  the  well- 
known  Loomis  Sanitarium,  for  cases  of  incipient  consumption.  It  is 
a good  centre  for  excursions.  — At  Young's  Oap  (1800  ft.)  we  reach 
the  highest  point  of  the  line  and  begin  to  descend.  125  M.  Parks- 

(1680  ft.);  137  M.  Rockland  (_m6  ft.)  142  M.  Cook's  Falls 
ril85  ft.),  on  the  BeaverkilL  From  (162  M.)  Cadosia  (1000  tt.) 
a branch -line  runs  to  (54  M.)  Scranton  (p.  244). 

(1460  ft.).  I8OV2  M.  Walton  (1220  ft.),  for  a branch  to  (17  M.)  Delhi. 
Farther  on  the  line  crosses  the  watershed  between  the  Delaware  and 
the  Susquehanna.  191  M.  Franklin  (1200  ft.),  amid  the  N.W.  foot- 
hills of  the  Catskills;  199  M.  South  Vnadilla  (1300  ft.),  the  station 
for  (1 V2  M.)  Vnadilla  (p.  202).  At  (202  M.)  Sidney  (1000  ft.),  on 
the  Susquehanna,  we  intersect  the  Del.  & Hudson  line  from  Albany 
to  Binghamton  (see  p.  244).  205  M.  New  Berlin  Junction,  for  lines 
to  Edmeston,  Utica  (p.  233),  and  other  points  ; 245  M Randallsvilk, 
junction  of  a branch-line  to  (32  M.)  Utica  (p. 

Castle  we  intersect  the  West  Shore  R.  R.  (comp.  p.  242). 
r267V9  M.)  Oneida  (p.  234)  we  skirt  the  N.  shore  of  Lake  Oneida. 
276  M.  Sylvan  Beach  (Hot.  St.  Charles,  from  $ 21/2)-  ^.t  (298  M.) 
Central  Square  we  cross  the  R.  W.  & 0.  R.  R.  (see  below). 

325  M.  Oswego  {Hotel  Deep  Rock,  $ 2-3)  is  a busy  hour-making 
city  and  port,  with  22,200  inhab.,  on  Lake  Ontario  (p.  339). 

We  now  pass  on  to  the  Rome,  Watertown,  & Ogdensburg  R.  R., 
which  skirts  the  S.  shore  of  Lake  Ontario.  363  M.  Wallington; 
393  M Windsor  Beach.  From  (394  M.)  Charlotte  a branch-line  runs 
to  (7  Ml  Rochester  (p.  238).  415  M.  Morton;  471  M.  Lewiston.  — 
476  M.  Suspension  Bridge  (p.  243).  Hence  to  (978  M.)  Chicago 
(Dearborn  Station),  see  R.  47b. 

f,  Vi^i.  Salamanca  and  Marion. 

998  M.  Erie  Railroad  in  25-32  hrs.  (fare  $ 18,  sleeper  $ 5). 
through-train  leaves  New  York  at  2 p.m. 

From  New  York  to  (332M.)  Hornellsville  (1160  ft.),  see  R.  28  d. 
Our  line  here  diverges  to  the  left  from  the  line  to  Buffalo  (p.  247). 
359  M.  Wellsville  (1525  ft.).  At  (384  M.)  Cuba  (1700  ft.)  we  pass  the 
culminating  point  of  the  route  and  begin  to  descend.  From  (dUb  M.J 
OUan  (1440  ft.)  to  Buffalo,  see  p.  285.  408  M.  Carrollton. 

414  M.  Salamanca  ^385  ft.;  Keating,  Dudley,  $1^,  with  4250 
inhab.,  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (43  M.)  Dunkirh  (p.  330).  .£*„*!*' 
time  here  becomes  the  standard.  — 447  M.  Jamestown  (1320  ft.; 
Sherman  Ho.,  Humphrey  Ho.,  $2-4),  a eity  ’ 

the  S.  outlet  of  Lake  Chautauqua  (p.  345),  and  (453  M.)  lakewoo 
[Kent,  $ 4),  at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  are  frequented  as  summer-resorts. 


The  solid 


to  Chicago, 


CHAUTAUQUA. 


47 , Route.  345 


*Lake  Chautauqua  (1290  ft.  above  the  sea;  720  ft.  above  Lake  Erie), 
18  M.  long  and  2 M.  wide,  is  only  8 M.  from  Lake  Erie  but  empties  its 
waters  into,  the  Atlantic  through  the  Conewango,  Allegheny,  Ohio,  and 
Mississippi.  It  is  surrounded  by  low  hills.  Steamers  ply  regularly  from 
Jamestown  and  Lakewood  to  Mayville  (p.  300),  Chautauqua  (see  below),  and 
Point  Chautauqua  (Grand  Hotel,  $ 3*31/2). 

• Chautauqua  500  beds,  $21/2-4;  numerous  small  hotels 

and  boarding-houses),  a pretty  little  place  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  lake,  is 
famous  as  the  summer  meeting-place  (July  & Aug.)  of  the  Chautauqua 
Assembly,  a huge  system  of  popular  education,  including  home-reading 
circles  and  correspondence  classes,  which  has  spread  all  over  the  United 
States  since  its  foundation  by  Bishop  Vincent  and  Lewis  Miller  in  1878. 
It  has  had  about  200,(X)0  members.  The  National  Home  Reading  Union  of 
England  has  been  founded  on  the  same  model.  The  public  buildings  of 
Chautauqua  include  assembly-halls,  lecture-rooms,  club-houses,  a museum, 
a gymnasium,  and  a model  of  Palestine,  300  ft.  long.  The  Summer  School 
has  classes  in  language,  literature,  science,  art,  and  music,  taught  by  up- 
wards of  50  instructors  from  various  American  colleges  and  universities. 
The  usual  summer-recreations,  such  as  boating,  bathing,  fishing,  golf, 
and  tennis,  may  all  be  enjoyed  here.  A so-called  '"Citizen  Tax'  is  levied 
on  all  frequenters  of  the  Chautauqua  Summer  Assembly  (above  twelve 
years  of  age):  40c.  per  day,  $ IV2  per  week,  $5  per  season.  The  tuition 
fees  are  $5  for  one  department,  $ 10  for  two  or  more.  The  official  address 
of  the  Assembly  is  Chautauqua,  N.  Y.  — The  Jamestown  <k  Lake  Erie  R.  R. 
runs  from  Jamestown  to  Chautauqua  and  Mayville  (comp.  p.  300). 

About  15  m.  beyond  Jamestown  we  mtQi  Pennsylvania.  Beyond 
(474  M.)  Carry  (1430  ft. ; p.  287)  we  descend  the  valley  of  French 
Creek.  — 503  M.  Cambridge  Springs  (1300  ft. ; Hotel  Rider,  $21/2-5; 
Riverside,  $2-3;  Cambridge,  $ 2-2V2;  , $2),  an  attractive 

health-resort  with  chalybeate  and  other  medicinal  springs,  effi- 
cacious in  dyspepsia,  rheumatism,  gout,  and  nervous  prostration. 
Pleasant  drives  and  walks  may  be  taken  in  the  neighbourhood,  and 
there  is  a golf-course.  — 516  M.  Meadville  (1080  ft.;  10,290  in- 
hab.)  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (36  M.)  Oil  City  (p.  299).  Near 
(559  M.)  Sharon  we  enter  Ohio.  572  M.  Youngstown,  the  junction 
of  a line  to  Pittsburg  (p.  295);  589  M.  Leavittshurg  (890  ft.),  the 
junction  of  a line  to  (49  M.)  Cleveland  (p.  330);  610  M.  Ravenna, 
an  agricultural  and  industrial  town,  with  4000  inhab. ; 627  M.  Akron 
(1005  ft.),  a flour  and  woollen  making  city  of  42,728  inhabitants. 
At  (693  M.)  Mansfield  (1155  ft.;  see  p.  326)  we  intersect  the  Penn- 
sylvania and  B.  & 0.  railroads.  729  M.  Marion  (960  ft.)  is  the  junc- 
tion for  (84  M.)  Dayton  (p.  383)  and  (143  M.)  Cincinnati  (p.  384). 
825  M.  Decatur;  856  M.  Huntington;  913  M.  Monterey;  978  M. 
Hammond;  992  M.  Englewood;  994  M.  47th  Street  (Chicago). 

998  M.  Chicago  (Dearborn  Station),  see  next  page. 

g.  ViH,  Baltimore  and  Washington. 

1048  M.  Baltimore  & Ohio  Railroad  in  31  hrs.  (fare  $ 18 ; sleeper  $ 5). 
The  Vestibule  Limited  Train  (no  extra  fare)  leaves  New  York  at  12.55  p m 
and  arrives  in  Chicago  at  7 p.m.  on  the  following  day. 

From  New  York  to  (90  M.)  Philadelphia,  see  R.31b;  from  Phila- 
delphia to  (186  m.)  Baltimore,  see  R.40;  from  Baltimore  to  (226 M.) 
Washington,  see  R.  42;  from  Washington  to  (1048  M.)  Chicago 
(Grand  Central  Station),  see  R.  45. 


346 


48.  Chicago. 

Plans.  In  the  subjoined  General  Plan  of  Chicago  (scale  1:100,000), 
referred  to  as  Gen.  PL,  clearness  is  aimed  at  by  the  omission  of  some  of 
the  streets.  The  important  central  section  of  the  city  is  also  given  in  a 
Special  Plan  (1:28,5()0),  referred  to  in  the  text  as  P1.+ 

Kailway  Stations.  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  (PL  C,  5),  at  the  S.  end  of 
Lake  Park,  also  used  by  the  C.  C.  C.  & St.  L.,  the  Wisconsin  Central  R.  R., 
and  the  M.  C.  R.  R.  (suburban  stations  at  the  foot  of  Randolph  St.,  PL  C,  2, 
and  at  the  foot  of  Van  Buren  St.,  PL  C,  3 — the  latter  underground)-. 
Canal  St.  Union  Depot  (PL  A,  3),  for  the  C.  & A.,  C.  B.  & Q.,  C.  M.  & St. 
P.,  P.  C.  C.  & St.  L.,  and  P.  Ft.  W.  & C.  R.R.^  Van  Buren  or  La  Salle 
St.  Depot  (PL  B,  3),  for  the  C.  R.  I.  & P. , the  L.  S.  & M.  S. , and  the 
N.  Y.  C.  & St.  L.  R.R.  ^ Dearborn  Station  (PL  C,  4),  cor.  of  Dearborn  and 
Polk  Sts.,  for  the  C.  & G.  T.,  A.  T.  & S.  F.,  Erie,  C.  & E.  I.,  Chic.,  In- 
dianopolis,  & Louisville,  and  Wabash  R.R.^  Grand  Central  Depot  (PL  B,  4), 
Harrison  St.,  for  the  Chic.  Terminal  Transfer  R.  R.  (belt  line  connecting 
with  all  the  railways  entering  Chicago),  the  Pere  Marquette  System,  the 
Chic.  Gt.  West.  R..  R. , and  the  B.  & O.  R.  R.-,  Chicago  & North-Western 
(Wells  St.  Station;  PL  B,  1),  cor.  of  Wells  & Kinzie  Sts.,  also  used  by  the 
U.  P.  R.  R.  — Cab  to  the  principal  hotels,  1-2  pers.  50  c.;  hack  (1-2  pers.) 
$ 1 (comp.  p.  347).  Pai'melee's  Omnibuses.,  50  c.  each. 

Hotels.  Auditorium  (PL  a;  C,  3),  a large  building  in  Michigan  Ave., 
facing  the  lake,  with  a very  elaborate  interior,  $372-5,  R.  $2-4.  It  is 
connected  by  a tunnel  lined  with  white  marble  with  the  ^Auditorium 
Annex,  at  the  opposite  corner  of  Congress  St.  and  Michigan  Ave.,  which 
is  preferable  in  many  ways  to  the  Auditorium  itself  (beautiful  Pompeian 
Room,  with  Tiffany  Fountain).  — Great  Northern  (PL  e;  C,  3),  237  Dear- 
born St.,  well  spoken  of,  $31/2;  *Hotel  Metropole  (Gen.  PL  f;  F,  G,  4), 
Michigan  Ave.,  cor.  of  23rd  St.,  from  $3,  R.  from  $11/2;  Windermere 
(Gen.  PL  t;  H,  7),  cor.  of  Cornell  Ave.  and  5Sth  St.,  $4-6;  Chicago  Beach 
(Gen.  PL  u ; H,  6),  51st  St.  and  Lake  Shore,  from  $ 5,  R.  from  $ 1,  these 
two,  and  especially  the  Windermere,  conveniently  situated  for  visitors  to 
the  University;  Virginia  (PL  i;  C,  1),  Ohio  & Rush  Sts.,  R.  from  $ I1/2; 
Grand  Pacific  Hotel  (PL  d;  B,  3),  Jackson  BouL,  recently  re-opened,  $ 3-5; 
Grace,  next  door  to  the  Union  League  Club  (PL  35;  B,  3),  R.  from  $1; 
Palmer  House  (PL  c;  C,  3),  State  St.,  a large  house,  frequented  by 
business-men  and  politicians,  R.  from  $ 1 ; Stratford  (PL  k ; C,3),  Michigan 
Ave.,  R.  from  $ IV2;  Saratoga,  155  Dearborn  St.,  R.  $1-3;  Ontario  (PL  g; 
C,  1),  Ontario  St.,  $2-5;  Wellington  (PL  h;  C,  3),  cor.  of  Wabash  Ave. 
and  Jackson  St.,  R.  from  $ IV2;  Hyde  Park  (Gen.  PL  r;  H,  6),  cor.  of 


t Legend  of  Special  Plan. 


1 Ashland  B B 2 

Art  Institute  . . . C3 
Auditorium  (see 

PL  a) C3 

2 Board  of  Trade  . . B3 

3 Tribune  Bldg.  . C2,3 

4 Chamber  of  Com- 

merce   B2 

5 Chicago  Club  . . . C3 

6 „ Opera  House  B2 

7 ,,  Burl.  & Quincy 
R.  R.  Office  . . . B3 

8 Chicago  Orchestral 

Ass C3 

City  Hall  & County 
Court  House  . . B2 

9 ColumbusMemorialC2 


10  Illinois  Trust  & 

Savings  Bank  . . B3 

11  Siegel  & Cooper 

Bldg C3 

12  Fair  Building  . . . 03 

13  First  National  Bank  C 3 

14  Garrick  Theatre  . C2 

15  Grand  Opera 

House BC2 

16  Home  Insurance  B.  B3 

17  Power’s  Theatre  . B 2 

18McVicker’s  The- 
atre   C 2, 3 

19  Manhattan  . . . C3,4 

20  Marshall  Field’s 

Store C2 

21  „ „ Wholesale  . B3 


22 Masonic  Temple  .02 
23Monadnock  . . . . C3 

24Monon C3- 

27  Rothschild  Bldg.  . C 3 
29  Portland  Bldg.  . . C2 
30 Pullman  Bldg.  . . C3 

31  Rookery B 3 

32  Royal  InsuranceOo.B  3 

33  Fine  Arts  B C3 

34  Tacoma  B B2 

35  Union  League 

Olub 03 

36  Unity  B C2 


37  Women’s  Temple . B3 
39  Illinois  Theatre  . C3 
40H.G.Selfridge&Co.  C2 
41  Rail.  Exchange  B.  C3 


Hotels. 


CHICAGO. 


48.  Route.  347 


51st  St.  and  LakeAve.,  $21/2-4^  Lexington  (Gen.  PI.  s;  G,  4),  Michigan  Ave., 
cor.  22nd  St.,  from  $3,  R.  from  $1;  Victoria  (PI.  C,  3),  194  Michigan 
Ave.,  $3-5j  Sherman  (PI.  1^  B,  2),  cor.  Randolph  & A Clark  Sts.,  R.  $ 1-4 5 
Kenwood,  cor.  of  47th  St.  and  Kenwood  Ave.  5 McCoy’s ‘(PI.  ni  B,  3), 
Kaiserhof,  S.  Clark  St.  (Kos.  278,  266),  R.  from  $ 1;  Bismarck  (PI.  h^  B,  2), 
180  Randolph  St.,  R.  $ 1-3^  Majestic,  Quincy  St.  & Randolph  St.,  R.  from  $ 1 ; 
Briggs  House,  cor.  of  Fifth  Ave.  and  Randolph  St.,  R.  from  $1^  Windsor- 
Clifton  (PI.  0^  C,  3),  cor',  of  Monroe  St.  and  Wabash  Ave.,  R.  $1-3; 
Gault  (PI.  p^  A,  2),  W.  Madison  St.,  $ 2-21/2,  R.  from  75  c.  — Board  may 
easily  he  obtained  in  any  part  of  the  town  from  $5  to  $15  per  week. 

Restaurants.  ^Auditorium  Annex.,  with  cafe  in  the  Pompeian  Room 
(seep.  346),  much  frequented  after  the  theatre^  "Be  Jonghe.,  45  Monroe  St.  ^ 
."Kinsley.,  105  Adams  St.,  D.  $ 1 5 Rector.,  cor.  of  Monroe  St.  and  Clark  St.  and 
at  31  Adams  St.  (fish,  etc.  ^ frequented  by  actors)  ^ ■*  Wellington  Hotel.,  '^Stratford 
Hotel  (with  handsome  Dutch  Room),  see  p.  346;  Absons  Chop  House.,  16 
Custom  House  Place,  off  Jackson  Boulevard;  Old  England  Chop  House.,  next 
door  to  the  last;  New  English  Dining  Rooms.,  Pullman  Building;  Savoy ^ cor.  of 
Harrison  St.  & Wabash  Ave.;  Kuntz-Remmler^  303  Wabash  Ave. ; St.  Hubert's, 
on  the  top  floor  of  the  Blajestic  Hotel  (see  above);  Eofhrdu.,  118  Monroe  St., 
Union,  109  E.  Randolph  St.,  Bismarck  (see  above),  Vogelsang,  178  Madison  St., 
Schlogl,  109  Fifth  Ave. ; between  Madison  St.  and  Washington  St.  (for  men); 
Mangier,  119  La  Salle  St.  (for  men),  and  many  other  German  houses; 
Edelweiss,  105  Madison  St.;  Gallauer,  cor.  of  N.  Clark  St.  & Germania  PL; 
Gunther's  Luncheon  Rooms,  212  State  St.,  for  ladies;  KohlsaaVs  Luncheon 
Rooms,  196  Clark  St.,  59  Washington  St.,  etc.;  John  R.  Thompson's  Restau- 
rants, 355  and  397  State  St.,  165  Adams  St.,  etc. ; Henrici,  108  Randolph  St.; 
Gaf&  Berlin,  76  State  St.;  Seaver,  86  State  St.;  also  at  most  of  the  other 
hotels  and  at  Marshall  Field's,  G.  H.  Selfridge  & Co.'s,  and  other  large  dry- 
goods  stores.  — Beer  Saloons:  Stein,  Kreischmar,  N.  Clark  St.  (Kos.  649, 
625).  — Wine  Rooms  : Jansen,  163  Washington  St. ; Wilken,  49  La  Salle  St. 
(Californian  wines);  Berkes,  75  Dearborn  St. 

Elevated  Railroads  (similar  to  those  of  New  York,  p.  12;  electric  motors  ; 
uniform  fare  5 c.).  1.  Chicago  <k  South  Side  Rapid  Transit  to  Jackson  Park. 
— 2.  Metropolitan  West  Side  along  W.  Van  Buren  St.  and  Harrison  St.  to 
48th  St.,  with  branches  to  the  N.  and  S.  — 3.  Lake  Street  along  Lake  St.  to 
52nd  St.  and  on  to  Oak  Park.  — 4.  North  Western  along  Fifth  Ave.  and 
Wells  St.  to  Buena  Park  and  Wilson  Avenue.  — In  the  ‘Down  Town 
District’  the  four  companies  use  a common  track,  known  as  the  Union 
Loop,  running  along  Waba.sh  Ave.  from  Van  Buren  St.  to  Lake  St.,  along 
Lake  St.  to  Fifth  Ave.,  along  Fifth  Ave.  to  Van  Buren  St.,  and  so  back 
to  its  starting-point. 

Tramways  (cable  and  electric)  traverse  the  chief  streets  and  run  to 
suburban  points  (fare  5c.).  Cars  stop  at  the  farther  street-crossings  or  at 
other  places  indicated  by  signs.  There  are  now  between  250  and  300  M. 
of  electric  railway  in  Chicago.  — Parmelee' s Omnibuses  run  between  the 
hotels  and  railway-stations  (50  c.). 

Cabs.  With  one  horse:  1-2  pers.  per  mile  50c.,  each  addit.  mile  25c. ; 
per  hr.,  1-2  pers.  75c.,  each  addit.  1/4  hr.  20c.,  in  the  parks  and  beyond 
the  city  limits  $1  and  25c.  With  two  horses  (Hacks):  1-2  pers.  1 M.  $1, 
2 M.  $11/2,  each  addit.  pers.  50c.,  per  hr.  $2,  each  addit.  hr.  $1,  per  day 
$ 8-10.  Ordinary  baggage  free;  if  weight  exceeds  lOOlbs.,  15  c.  per  package. 
Each  vehicle  is  bound  to  exhibit  a tariff  inside,  but  it  is  well  to  come  to 
a clear  understanding  beforehand. 

Steamers  ply  from  Chicago  to  all  points  on  the  Great  Lakes.  Among 
the  chief  lines  are  the  Goodrich,  the  Lake  Michigan  & Lake  Superior  Trans- 
portation Co.,  the  Northern,  the  Anchor,  and  the  Graham  d'  Morton  Trans- 
portation Co.  Steamers  to  Milwaukee  (p.  358)  run  2-3  times  daily.  Small 
steamers  ply  at  frequent  intervals  (esp.  on  Sun.  and  holidays)  to  Jackson 
and  Lincoln  Parks  (pp.  355,  354),  to  St.  Joe  (Mich.),  South  Haven  (Mich.), 
and  other  near  points.  The  steamboat  wharves  are  mainly  along  the 
river,  within  1/2  M.  of  its  mouth. 


348  Route  48.  CHICAGO.  History. 

Theatres  and  Places  of  Amusement.  Auditorium  Theatre  (PI.  a;  C,  3), 
Congress  St.  (comp.  p.  350),  splendidly  fitted  up  and  accommodating  4-6ouO 
people;  Garrick  Theatre  (PI.  14;  C,  2),  Randolph  St.,  built  by  Sullivan,  the 
architect  of  the  Auditorium;  Illinois  (PI.  39:  C,  3),  22  Jackson  Boulevard  • 
Studebaker,  in  the  Fine  Arts  Building  (PI.  33;  C,  3);  Chicago  Opera  House 
(PI.  6,  B 2;  vaudeville),  118  Washington  St.;  McVicker's  Theatre  (PI.  18- 
C,  2,  3),  Madison  St.;  Powers's  Theatre  (PI.  17;  B,  2),  Randolph  St.;  Grand 
Opera  House  (PI.  15;  B,  C,  2),  Clark  St.;  Great  Northern  Theatre  (PI.  e;  C,  3), 
.Tackson  St.,  near  Dearborn  St.;  Academy  of  Music  ^ South  Halsted  St.* 
Cleveland's  Theatre^  cor.  of  Wabash  Ave.  & Hubbard  Court  (vaudeville)’ 
Olympia^  Haymarket,  vaudeville  performances.  — The  ^Concerts  of  ThomaPs 
Orchestra  aie  held  in  the  building  of  the  Chicago  Orchestral  Association 
(p.  350). 

Post  Office  (PI.  B,  3),  in  block  bounded  by  Adams,  Dearborn,  Jack- 
son,  <fe  Clark  Sts.;  general  delivery  open  day  and  night,  on  Sun.  11-1. 
Provisional  Post  Office,  Michigan  Ave.,  opposite  Washington  St.  (Pl.C.  2). 

Booksellers.  McClurg  215  Wabash  Ave.,  one  of  the  biggest  bookshops 
in  the  world;  Brentano^  200  Wabash  Ave.,  cor.  of  Adams  St. 

British  Consul,  Mr.  Alexander  Finn.^  630  Pullman  Buildings. 

Tourist  Agents.  Raymond  tk  Whitcomb  Co..,  103  Adams  St.;  Thos.  Cook 
<t  Son.,  234  South  Clark  St. 

Chicago  (pron.  Shikdhgo;  590  ft.  above  tbe  sea,  15-75  ft.  above 
the  lake),  the  second  city  and  largest  railway- centre  of  the  United 
States,  is  situated  on  the  S.W.  shore  of  Lake  Michigan  (p.  342),  at  the 
m uths  of  the  rivers  Chicago  and  Calumet.  It  is  850  M.  from  Balti- 
more, the  nearestpoint  on  the  Atlantic,  and2415  M.  from  SanFrancisco. 
It  covers  an  area  of  187  sq.  M.,  and  in  1900  contained  1,698,575  in- 
habitants. The  city  has  a water-front  on  the  lake  of  26  M.  and  is 
divided  by  the  Chicago  River  and  its  branches  into  three  portions, 
known  as  the  iVort/i,  Souths  and  West  Sides.  The  site  of  the  city  is 
remarkably  level,  rising  very  slightly  from  the  lake ; and  its  streets 
are  usually  wide  and  straight.  Among  the  chief  business-thorough- 
fares  are  State,  Clark,  Madison,  Randolph,  Dearborn,  and  La  Salle 
Streets,  and  Wabash  Avenue.  Perhaps  the  finest  residence  streets  are 
Michigan  Avenue  and  Drexel  and  Grand  Boulevards,  on  the  S.  side, 
and  Lake  Shore  Drive,  on  the  N.  side. 

It  is  estimated  that  not  more  than  350, CKX)  of  the  inhabitants  are  native 
Americans;  about  600,000  are  Germans,  250,000  are  Irish,  180, (KK)  Scandi- 
navians, 100,000  Poles,  90,000  Bohemians,  30,000  Italians,  35,000  Canadians, 
and  190,000  English  and  Scottish.  ‘In  Chicago  there  are  some  14  languages, 
besides  English,  each  of  which  is  spoken  by  10,000  or  more  persons. 
Newspapers  appear  regularly  in  10  languages,  and  church-services  may  be 
heard,  in  about  20  languages.  Chicago  is  the  second  largest  Bohemian  city 
of  the  world,  the  third  Swedish,  the  third  Norwegian,  the  fourth  Polish, 
the  fifth  German.  In  all  there  are  some  40  foreign  languages  spoken  by 
numbers  ranging  from  half  a dozen  to  half  a million,  and  aggregating 
over  one  million'.  {Prof.  G.  D.  Buck,  in  ‘Decennial  Publications  of  the 
University  of  Chicago’;  1903.) 

History.  The  growth  of  Chicago  has  been  phenomenal  even  among 
American  cities.  The  river  Chicago  (the  Indian  Checagua,  meaning  ‘wild 
onion’  and  ‘pole-cat’)  was,  indeed,  visited  by  the  Frenchmen  Joliet  and 
Marquette  in  1673,  but  it  was  not  until  1804  that  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment erected  Fort  Dearborn,  the  first  permanent  settlement  in  the  swamp 
that  was  afterwards  Chicago.  The  garrison  of  the  fort  was  massacred  by 
Indians  in  1812,  but  the  fort  was  rebuilt  and  re-occupied  two  years  later. 
In  1831  the  little  village  contained  about  100  inhab.  and  in  1837  it  had 
attained  to  the  dignity  of  an  incorporated  city  and  a population  of  4170.  In 


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48,  Route.  349 


1850  its  population  had  increased  to  29,963,  and  its  commercial  enterprize  Lad 
hegun  to  attract  attention.  A signal  instance  of  the  energy  of  the  citizens 
was  given  in  1855,  when  the  level  of  the  entire  city  was  raised  7 ft.,  huge 
buildings  being  elevated  bodily  without  interruption  to  business.  By  I860 
its  population  was  almost  quadrupled  (109,206),  while  its  trade  in  bread- 
stuffs  had  increased  tenfold.  By  1870  Chicago  contained  306,605  inhab. 
and  had  become  one  of  the  leading  commercial  centres  of  the  New  World! 
In  1871  (Oct.  8-lOth)  the  flourishing  city  was  the  scene  of  a terrible  con- 
flagration, which  originated  in  the  W.  side  (at  No.  137  De  Koven  St.  5 PI. 
A,  5),  crossed  to  the  N.  of  the  river,  swept  over  an  area  of  S’A  sq.  M. 

property  to  the  value  of  nearly  $ 200,000,000 
(40,000,000^.),  and  left  100,000  people  homeless.  About  200  people  perished 
in  the  flames.  The  recovery  from  this  disaster  was  rapid  and  complete; 
and  in  a few  years  the  only  trace  of  it  was  the  improved  character  of  tlie 
streets  and  buildings.  The  fire  found  Chicago  of  wood  and  left  it  of  brick 
and  stone.  In  1880  the  population  was  503,185,  in  1890  it  was  1,099,850,  — 
Great  injustice  is  done  to  Chicago  by  those  who  represent  it  as  wholly 
given  over  to  the  worship  of  Mammon,  as  it  compares  favourably  with 
many.  American  cities  in  the  efforts  it  has  m.ade  to  beautify  itself  by  the 
creation  of  parks  and  boulevards  and  in  its  encouragement  of  education 
and  the  liberal  arts  (comp.  pp.  350,  S51,  354,  etc.).  Among  the  private 
collections  of  art  and  literature  may  be  mentioned  those  of  Mr.  Eogerson. 
Mrs.  HutcMnscn,  Mr.  Ellesworth.,  Mr.  Allison  Armour.^  Mr.  Potter  Palmer 
Mr.  Frank,  G.  Logan  (paintings  of  the  Barbison  School),  and  Mr.  G.  J. 
Gunther  (rare  books,  prints,  portraits,  and  MSS.;  autograph  of  Moliere;  alleg- 
ed autograph  of  Shakespeare;  MSS.  of  Tennyson’s  ‘Maud’  and  Swinburne’s 
Atalanta  in  Calydon’).  No  other  one  event  has  stimulated  Chicago’s  higher 
activities  so  much  as  the  holding  within  its  borders  in  1893  of  the  World’s 
Columbian  Exhibition,  celebrating  the  four-hundredth  anniversary  of  the 
discovery  of  America  by  Columbus.  — Chicago  has  long  been  the  favourite 
meeting -place  of  the  conventions  held  by  the  great  political  parties  to 

President.  Lincoln  (1860),  Grant 
G868),  Garfield  (1880),  Cleveland  (1884  and  1892),  Harrison  (188^),  and 
Roosevelt  (1904)  were  all  nominated  here. 

Commerce  and  Industry.  The  trade  of  Chicago  is  second  to  that  of 
X alone  among  American  cities,  and  in  1900  amounted  in  value 

to  2010  million  dollars  (400  millions  sterling).  The  staples  are  grain  (ko 
million  bushels  yearly),  lumber,  live-stock,  and  packed  meat,  in  which 
branches  it  is  the  largest  market  in  the  world.  The  value  of  its  manufac- 
tures in  1900  was  $ 888,950,000  (177,790,000^.),  including  iron  and  steel  wares, 
agricultural  implements,  railway-cars,  textiles,  leather,  beer,  spirits,  chem- 
i^ls,  annual  tonnage  of  vessels  entering  Chicago  Harbour  is 

about  8,(  00,000.  — Among  the  leading  industrial  establishments  may  be 
nientioned  the  Illinois  Steel  Co..,  which  has  three  plants  in  different  parts 
of  the  city  (including  the  largest  rolling  mills  in  the  world  at  South 
Chicago,  covming  334  acres),  has  a capital  of  $35,0  0,000  (7,000,000;.),  and 
employs  10,000  men;  the  McCormick  Harvesting  Machine  Co.,  in  the  S W 
part  of  the  city,  employing  3000  hands  and  producing  150,000  machines 
annually ; the  Leering  Harvester  Co.'s  works  in  the  N.W.  part  of  the  city 
(Gen.  PI.  E,  1),  occupying  60  acres  of  ground  and  employing  3500  men  in 
the  production  of  binder  twine  and  harvesting  machinery;  the  Grant  Loco- 
motive Works  (Gen.  PI.  B,  4),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  city;  and  the  Chicago 
Cold  Storage  Exchange.  Comp,  also  p.  357. 

Architecture.  Chicago  has  become  identified  with  the  erection  of 
enormously  tall  office-buildings,  the  upper  stories  of  which  are  made  ac- 
cessible by  rapid-running  elevators.  The  architectural  beauty  of  these  is 
often  questionable,  but  no  one  can  fail  to  admire  the  wonderful  skill  of 
their  architectural  engineering.  Ihese  ‘sky-scrapers’  are  now  erected  on 
the  steel-frame  system’,  the  walls  affording  no  support  to  the  edifice  but 
merely  forming  a kind  of  veneer  to  the  actual  structural  frame.  The 
interiors  are  often  admirably  fitted  up  and  adorned  (comp.  p.  xcii).  A 
municipal  ordinance  now  limits  the  height  of  buildings  to  150  ft.  - Engineers 


350  Route  48 » 


CHICAGO. 


Lake  Park. 


will  also  be  interested  in  the  Waddell  Lift  Bridge^  over  tbe  S.  branch  of 
the  Chicago  River,  at  S.  Halstead  St.,  near  22nd  St.  (Gen.  PI.  F,  4),  which 
can  be  lifted,  by  means  of  pulleys  and  counter-weights,  to  a height  of 
155  ft.  above  the  channel.  It  is  not  considered  by  any  means  so  successful 
as  the  rolling  lift  or  bascule  bridges  in  other  parts  of  the  city.  — An 
extensive  system  of  subways  or  tunnels  is  now  being  constructed  by  the 
Illinois  Tunnel  Co.  under  the  streets  of  the  crowded  districts  for  the 
handling  of  freight  by  electricity.  The  development  of  this  system  is 
expected  to  work  a revolution  in  the  city’s  streets. 

The  visitor  to  Chicago  cannot,  perhaps,  better  begin  his  exam- 
ination of  the  city  than  by  ascending  to  the  top  of  the  Tower  (270  ft. 
high 5 adm.  25c.)  of  the  ^Auditorium  (PI.  a;  C,  3),  which  affords  a 
splendid  view.  This  huge  building,  erected  by  Sullivan  in  1887-89 
at  a cost  of  $3,500,000,  includes  a large  hotel  (p.  346)  and  a hand- 
some theatre  (p.  348;  5000  seats).  The  tower  is  occupied  by  a U.  S. 
Signal  Service  Station.  The  longest  front  of  the  building,  towards 
Congress  St.,  is  360  ft.  — The  Fine  Arts  or  Studehaker  Building 
(PI.  33  ; C,  3),  adjoining  the  Auditorium,  is  one  of  the  show  build- 
ings of  Chicago,  but,  though  in  several  respects  not  unworthy  of  its 
situation,  it  is  too  palatial  in  character  to  fairly  represent  the  severity 
of  this  city’s  commercial  architecture  (Schuyler).  It  has  deservedly 
been  described  as  the  focus  of  the  artistic  and  intellectual  life  of 
Chicago,  containing  as  it  does  a theatre,  concert,  assembly,  and 
lecture  rooms,  and  the  meeting-places  of  several  artistic  and  literary 
clubs.  — The  beautiful  Romanesque  building  to  the  N.  of  the  Pine 
Arts  Building  is  the  Chicago  Club  (PI.  5;  C,  3).  A little  farther 
to  the  N.,  at  the  corner  of  Jackson  Boulevard,  is  the  tall  Railway 
Exchange  Building  (PI.  41 ; C,  3) , erected  in  1903-4  and  cased  in 
tiles.  Next  to  this  on  the  N.  is  the  new  building  of  the  Chicago 
Orchestral  Association^  used  for  the  Thomas  Concerts  (p.  348). 

All  these  buildings  face  upon  Michigan  Avenue  and  the  Lake 
Park  (PI.  C,D,  2-5),  the  latter  consisting  of  a public  pleasure-ground 
abutting  on  Lake  Michigan.  Tbe  park  is  as  yet  in  a somewhat  in- 
choate condition,  but  has  been  improved  of  late  by  the  depression 
of  the  tracks  of  the  Illinois  Central  Railway  and  by  the  construction 
of  massive  stone  viaducts  connecting  the  park  proper  with  the  lake 
shore.  The  adjoining  part  of  the  lake,  between  the  shore  and  the 
breakwater,  is  to  be  filled  in  and  added  to  the  park.  In  the  Lake 
Park,  Vs  Auditorium  and  opposite  Eldredge 

Place,  is  an  ^Equestrian  Statue  of  Gen.  John  A.  Logan  (1824-86; 
PI.  C,  D,  4),  in  bronze,  by  Aug.  St.  Gaudens,  erected  in  1897  at  a 
cost  of  $80,000  (16,000?.).  The  general,  whose  remains  lie  in  a 
crypt  below  the  monument , is.  represented  as  rallying  his  troops 
before  Atlanta.  — A little  farther  to  the  S.  is  the  * Illinois  Central 
Station  (PI.  C,  5) , an  admirable  and  commodious  railway  terminal 
building. 

Following  Michigan  Ave.  towards  the  N.  from  the  Auditorium, 
we  soon  reach  (right)  the  *Art  Institute  of  Chicago  (PI.  C,  3), 
an  imposing  building  in  a semi  - classical  style,  erected  from  the 


a7„  Institute. 


CHICAGO. 


Route.  351 


plans  of  Charles  A.  Coolidge  in  1892-93.  It  contains  valuable  col- 
lections of  paintings,  sculpture,  and  other  objects  of  art,  and  also 
the  largest  and  most  comprehensive  art  school  in  America  (2000  stu- 
dents). All  the  objects  are  provided  with  explanatory  labels.  The 
collections  are  open  daily,  9-5  (Sun.  1-5);  adm.  25c.,  free  on  Wed., 
Sat.,  and  Sunday.  The  annual  number  of  visitors  is  about  700,000. 
Director,  W.  M.  R.  French.  Catalogue  15  c. 

The  Basement  Floor  is  devoted  to  school-rooms  and  work-rooms. 

Main  Floor.  Booms  1-5,  8,  10,  12,  and  14  contain  the  Elbridge  G.  Hall 
Collection  of  Casts  of  Ancient  and  Modern  Sculpture,  There  are  also  a few 
original  modern  works  in  B.  12.  — Boom  (j  contains  the  - Higinbotham 
GoUeciion  of  reproductions  of  bronzes  at  Naples.  ~ Boom  11  contains  old 
French  sculpture.  — Boom  13  holds  musical  instruments.  — Boom  15 
contains  a small  but  good  collection  of  scarabsei,  beads,  and  other  Egyp- 
tian antiquities,  and  also  Greek  vases,  glass,  and  terracottas.  — Boom  16 
contains  oil-paintings.  — Boom  20,  at  the  back,  is  Blackstone  Hall,  a 
gallery  over  200  ft.  long,  containing  the  Blackstone  Collection  of  Architec- 
tural Casts,  chiefly  of  French  subjects.  — Boom  24  is  the  Ryerson  Library 
of  Fine  Art. 

Floor  are  paintings,  textiles,  and  Japanese  objects.  — 
Boom  d8  (to  the  right  at  head  of  staircase).  Field  Memorial  Collection  of 
Paintings,  chiefly  of  the  Barbison  School:  *131.  Millet,  Bringing  home 
I'>^oyon,  Beturning  from  market:  landscapes  by 
Corot  (108),  Cuzin  and  Constable  (111)^  118.  Detaille,  Mounted  officer : 
101.  Breton,  Song  of  the  lark.  — Boom  39  (Stickney  Boom)  contains  paint- 
modern  masters,  including  examples  of  Whistler  (343)  and  Millet 
(422).  — Boom  40.  Munger  Collection,  with  paintings  by  Meissonier  (174) 
Qirdme,  Michetti , Munkdcsy , Troyon , Fromentin,  and  Faed.  — - Boom  4l 
contains  the  Nickerson  Collection  of  Japanese  Bronzes,  Porcelains,  etc  — 
Boom  42.  Nickerson  Collection  of  Jades  and  Crystals^  also  Modern  French 
and  American  Paintings,  including  specimens  of  Couture,  C.  H.  Davis, 
Mechel,  Ribot;  Wyant,  and  — Boom  44.  Nickerson  Collection  ofWater- 
colours  and  Engravings.  — Booms  43  and  45.  Textiles  and  Decorative  Art  — 
Boom  32  (to  the  left  of  head  of  staircase)  contains  the  most  valuable  works 
including  examples  of  Rembrandt  (^Portrait  of  a girl: 
'^oin  Ostade  (’'Golden  wedding),  Jan  Steen  (Merry  company),  Hobbema 
( Water-mill),  J.  van  Ruysdael  (Castle),  A.  van  de  Velde  (Meadow  with 
Frans  Hals  (*The  artist’s  son,  a late  work),  Murillo  (^Immaculate 
Conception),  Velazquez  (Philip  IV.),  D.  Teniers  (Guard-room),  Terburg  (Gui- 
tar-lesson), Rubens  (Spinola),  and  Van  Dyck  (portrait).  Thirteen  of  the 
most,  in^ortant  works  in  this  room  were  bought  in  1890  from  the  famous 
DemidofF  Collection  at  Florence.  — Boom  31.  Modern  Paintings.  — Boom  33 
contains  Medals,  and  the  Arundel  Collection  of  chromo-lithograpbic  repro- 
the  works  of  the  Old  Masters.  — Boom  29  contains  reproductions 
of  illustrations  from  the  ‘Century  Magazine’.  — Booms  25-30  are  occupied 
by  temporary  exhibitions,  varied  from  time  to  time. 

Farther  to  the  N.,  on  the  opposite  side  of  Michigan  Ave.,  is  the 
^Chicago  Public  Library  (PI.  0,  2),  an  imposing  building  in  a 
style,  designed  by  Shepley,  Rutan,  ^ Coolidge.,  and  erected 
in  1893-97  at  a cost  of  $2,000,000.  This  fine  edifice  is  worthy  to 
rank  with  the  Congressional  Library  (p.  313)  and  the  Boston  Public 
Library  (p.  105).  The  main  entrances  are  to  the  N.  and  S.,  in  Ean- 
dolph  St.  and  Washington  St.  The  interior  is  sumptuously  adorned 
with  marble,  mosaics,  frescoes,  and  mottoes.  It  contains  300,000 
vols.,  but  has  room  for  600,000.  On  the  first  floor  (N.  end)  is  a 
large  Memorial  Hall,  used  by  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Republic  and^ 


352  Route  48^ 


CHICAGO. 


City  Hall. 


covered  I)y  a dome ; it  contains  an  interesting  collection  of  Civil 
War  and  otlier  historical  relics. 

On  the  N.,  Michigan  Ave.  ends  at  the  Chicago  River.  Fort  Dear- 
born (pp.  349,  355)  stood  to  the  left,  on  the  river,  at  the  end  of  the 
avenue  (tablet  at  the  corner  of  River  St.). 

The  Chicago  River.,  a narrow  and  uninviting -looking  stream,  lias  a 
frontage  within  the  city  of  nearly  60  M.,  of  which  one-third  are  navigable. 
The  river  is  crossed  by  numerous  bridges  and  undermined  by  three  tunnels, 
traversed  by  tramway-lines.  As  Chicago  derives  its  drinking-water  from 
Lake  Michigan  (see  p.  354),  the  disposal  of  the  river-drainage  was  long  a 
serious  problem,  until  solved  by  the  construction  of  the  *Drainage  Canal, 
the  greatest  feat  of  sanitary  engineering  in  the  world.  This  canal,  coin- 
pleted  in  1899  at  a cost  of  $33,000,000,  begins  at  the  S.  branch  of  the 
Chicago  River  in  Robey  St.  and  extends  to  (28  M.)  Lockport  (p.  37  0, 
where  it  discharges  the  sewage  of  Chicago  into  the  Desplaines  River  and 
so  ultimately  into  the  Illinois  River,  a tributary  of  the  Mississippi. 
enormous  sewer  reverses  the  natural  course  of  the  river,  and  is  imshed 
by  about  300,000  cubic  feet  of  water  per  minute  drawn  from  Lake  Michigan. 
The  canal  is  also  to  be  used  by  shipping.  — The  Harbour  is  16  ft.  deep  and 
has  an  area  of  about  450  acres;  and  there  is  also  an  external  breakwater, 

1 M.  long,  to  shelter  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

To  see  something  of  the  business- quarters  of  Chicago  and  the 
lofty  office-buildings  for  which  it  is  famous,  we  may  now  follow 
Randolph  St.  (see  PL  A-C,  2)  to  the  W.  to  the  City  Hall  and  County 
Court  House  (PI.  B,  2),  a huge  twin-building  occupying  an  entire 
square  and  erected  at  a cost  of  nearly  $5,000,000.  On  the  ground- 
floor  of  the  City  Hall  (N.)  are  the  headquarters  of  the  Fire  Depart- 
ment (1100  men)  and  of  the  Police  Force  (3200  men).  Adjacent 
to  the  City  Hall  is  the  Drake  Fountain.,  with  a statue  of  Columbus. 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  City  Hall,  in  Dearborn  Ave.,  between 
Michigan  St.  and  Illinois  St.,  stands  the  Criminal  Court  and  County  Jail 
(PI.  C,  1),  a huge  and  gloomy  structure  erected  in  1896. 

La  Salle  Street  (PL  B,  1-3),  leading  to  the  S.  from  the  Court 
House,  contains  some  of  the  finest  office-buildings  in  the  city. 
Among  these  are  the  ^Chamber  of  Commerce  (PL  4,  B2;  14  stories), 
at  the  corner  of  Washington  St.  (left) ; the  Chicago  Stock  Exchange, 
opposite  (13  stories;  right);  the  Tacoma  Building  (PL  34,  B2; 
13  stories),  at  the  corner  of  Madison  St.  (left);  the  Y.  M,  C.  A. 
Building  (13  stories),  a little  farther  to  the  S.  (left);  the  oddly 
shaped  Women's  Temperance  Temple  (PL  37,  B 3;  lo  stories),  at 
the  corner  of  Monroe  St.  (right);  the  New  York  Life  Insurance  Build- 
ing (12  stories),  diagonally  opposite  the  last  (left);  the  Home  In- 
surance Co.  Building  (PL  16,  B 3;  11  stories);  and  the  Rookery 
(PL  31,  B 3;  10  stories),  the  last  two  at  the  corner  of  Adams  St. 
(left).  The  * Interior  (600  rooms)  of  the  last,  lined  with  white 
marble,  is  worth  inspecting,  and  visitors  should  ascend  by  one  of  the 
‘express’  elevators  to  the  rotunda  at  the  top.  To  the  right,  between 
Quincy  St.  and  Jackson  Boulevard,  is  the  Illinois  Trust  ^ Saving. 
Bank  (PL  10 ; B,  3),  a massive  two-storied  edifice,  with  huge  pillars 
on  the  La  Salle  St.  front  and  a fine  central  court  (worth  visiting) 
Below  are  the  safety  deposit  vaults.  At  the  end  of  La  Salle  St.  stands 


Board  of  Trade. 


CHICAGO. 


48.  Route.  353 


tlie  Board  of  Trade  (PI.  2;  B,  3),  witli  a tower  322  ft.  high.  Visitors 
are  admitted  to  the  gallery  (business-hours,  9.30-1.15). 

Jackson  Boulevard  (PL  B,  0,  3)  leads  hence  to  the  E.  to  the 
new  Federal  Building,  containing  the  Custom  House  ^ Post  Office 
(PI.  B,  0,  3)  and  occupying  an  entire  block.  It  is  in  the  Corin- 
thian style,  with  a large  central  dome,  200  ft.  in  height.  The  foun- 
dations consist  of  huge  columns  of  iron  and  cement,  resting  on  the 
bed-rock.  The  Postmaster’s  Room  contains  portraits  of  all  the  Post- 
masters of  Chicago. — Close  by  are  five  very  large  buildings  (16  stories) : 
the  Great  Northern  Hotel  (PI.  e,  C 3;  Dearborn  St.),  the  Fair  Build- 
ing (PI.  12,  C 3;  cor.  of  Dearborn  St.  and  Adams  St.),  the  Man- 
hattan (PI.  19,  C 3 4;  Dearborn  St.),  the  Monon  (PI.  24,  C 3;  Dear- 
born St.),  and  the  Monadnock  (PI.  23,  C 3 ; Jackson  Boul.).  Adjoining 
the  last  is  the  Union  League  Club  (PI.  35 ; B,  3). 

Dearborn  Street  (PI.  C,  3,  4),  leading  hence  to  the  S. , is  also 
lined  with  ‘sky-scrapers’.  To  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  Van  Buren 
St.,  is  the  Fisher  Building  (18  stories),  and  opposite  is  the  Old 
Colony  Building  (16  stories).  At  the  corner  of  Madison  St.  is  the 
handsome  Tribune  Building  (PI.  C,  2,  3). 

We  may  now  follow  Van  Buren  Street  (PI.  B,  C,  3)  to  the  E. 
(left)  to  State  Street  (PI.  C,  1-6),  at  its  intersection  with  which 
are  the  large  ‘department  stores’  of  Siegel  ^ Cooper  (PI.  11 ; C,  3) 
and  A.  M.  Rothschild  (PI.  27 ; C,  3).  Following  State  St.  to  the  left 
(N.),  we  pass  the  department  store  of  H.  G.  Selfridge  Co.  (PL  40, 
C 2j  p.  347),  one  of  the  most  dignified  business  - structures  in 
Chicago;  the  Columbus  Memorial  Building  (PL  9,  C 2;  14  stories), 
at  the  corner  of  Washington  St.  (right),  occupied  almost  entirely 
by  physicians ; Marshall  Field's  Store  (PL  20 ; C,  2),  the  Whiteley’s  of 
Chicago,  at  the  opposite  corner  of  Washington  St.  (r. ; 1,000,000  sq.  ft. 
of  floor-space;  7500-8000  employees);  and  the  enormously  tall 
Masonic  Temple  (PI.  22,  C 2 ; 21  stories),  at  the  corner  of  Randolph 
St.  (r.;  view  from  top,  25  c.). 

Among  other  buildings  of  interest  in  this  Business  Quaetee  are  the 
Unify  Building  (PI.  36,  0 2;  18  stories),  Dearborn  St.,  near  Randolph  St.; 
the  Rand-McNally  Building.^  in  Adams  St.,  near  La  Salle  St.,  one  of  the 
largest  and  finest  publishing  and  printing  houses  in  the  world  (700  hands ; 
built  almost  entirely  of  steel);  the  General  Offices  of  the  Chicago.^  Burling- 
ton., & Quincy  Railroad  (PI.  7;  B,  3),  Adams  St.,  cor.  Franklin  St.;  the 
* Wholesale  Establishment  of  Marshall  Field  <fc  Go.  (PI.  21;  B,  3),  Adams  St., 
designed  by  H.  H.  Richardson  (‘one  of  the  most  individual  examples  of 
American  commercial  building’’;  in  it  ‘the  vulgarity  of  the  commercial 
palace  is  gratefully  conspicuous  by  its  absence,  and  it  is  as  monumental 
in  its  massiveness  and  durability  as  it  is  grimly  utilitarian  in  expression’) ; 
the  Royal  Insurance  Co.  (PI.  32;  B,  3),  Jackson  Boul.,  nearly  opposite  the 
Board  of  Trade;  the  First  National  Bank  Building  cor.  of  Dear- 

born & Monroe  Sts.;  the  Pullman  Building  (PI.  30;  C,  3),  cor.  of  Michigan 
Ave.  and  Adams  St.;  the  Ashland  Block  (PI.  1,  B 2;  16  stories);  the  Schiller 
Building  (^Garrick  Theatre;  PI.  14,  C 2);  the  Chicago  Opera  House  (PI.  6;  B,  2); 
the  Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  15;  B,  2);  the  American  Express  Building\  by 
Richardson,  in  Dearborn  St.  (E.  side),  between  Adams  St.  and  Monroe  St. 
(PI.  C,  3);  the  "^Marquette  Building.^  cor.  of  Dearborn  and  Adams  Sts.;  the 
Cook  County  Abstract.,  100  Washington  Street;  the  Trude  Building.,  S.W.  cor. 

Baedekee’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  23 


354  Route  48, 


CHICAGO. 


Lincoln  Park, 


of  Randolpli  St.  and  Wabash  Ave.^  the  Champlain,^  N.W.  cor.  State  and 
Madison  Sts.  \ the  Reliance,^  S.W.  cor.  State  and  Washington  Sts.  (the  last 
two  mainly  occupied  by  physicians  and  dentists)*  and  the  Owing s Building,^ 
213  Dearborn  St. 

Tbe  ^Public  Parks  of  Chicago,  with  a total  extent  of  2230 
acres,  form,  with  their  connecting  boulevards,  a nearly  complete 
chain  round  the  city,  and  afford  66  M.  of  driveways  within  the  city 
limits.  In  very  hot  weather  the  poor  are  allowed  to  sleep  all  night 
in  the  parks.  — On  the  N.  side  is  Lincoln  Park  (see  below),  reached 
by  tramways  on  N.  Wells,  N.  Clark,  and  N.  State  Streets.  On  the  way 
to  it  walkers  or  drivers  should  pass  the  Water  Works  (Gen.  PI.  G,  2), 
near  the  foot  of  Chicago  Avc.,  the  tower  of  which,  175  ft.  high,  com- 
mands an  extensive  view. 

The  water-supply  of  Chicago,  amounting  to  250  million  gallons  daily, 
is  derived  from  Lake  Michigan  by  means  of  four  systems  of  tunnels  com- 
municating with  ^Cribs\  situated  2-4  M.  from  the  shore.  Throughout  the 
city  are  eight  principal  pumping  stations  and  an  intricate  system  of  land 
tunnels,  connecting  with  those  in  the  lake.  In  all  there  are  now  22  M.  of 
tunnel  and  1700  M.  of  mains  in  use. 

A little  farther  on  begins  th  e *Lake  Shore  Drive  (Gen.  PI.  G,2),  one 
of  the  finest  residence- streets  in  Chicago,  containing  some  very 
handsome  houses,  including  specimens  of  H.  H.  Richardson  (not  in 
his  happiest  manner)  and  R.  M.  Hunt  (next  door).  On  the  N.  it 
ends  at  *Lincoln  Park  (Gen.  PI.  F,  G,  1 ; 300  acres). 

Among  the  attractions  of  this  park  are  the  conservatories,  palm-house, 
lily-ponds,  and  flower-beds^  a small  zoological  collection;  a fountain 
illuminated  at  night  by  electric  light;  the  statues  of  Lincoln  (by  St. 
Gaudens),  Grant  (by  Rebisso),  Beethoven,^  Schiller ^ La  Salle,,  and  Linnoeus; 
and  the  boating  lake.  Near  the  main  entrance  is  the  Academy  of  Sciences 
(open  free  daily,  9-5),  containing  admirably  arranged  and  classified 
collections  illustrating  the  various  natural  sciences;  one  of  the  chief  ob- 
jects of  interest  is  a mounted  mastodon,  80  per  cent  of  which  is  genuine. 
Park-phaetons  20  c.  per  drive. 

A ^Breakwater  Carriage  Drive  has  been  constructed  in  the  lake  along- 
side of  Lincoln  Park,  whence  it  is  prolonged  by  the  Sheridan  Boulevard 
to  Fort  Sheridan  (27  M.).  The  strip  of  water  between  this  drive  and  the 
park  is  used  as  a regatta-course  for  small  boats.  The  E.  lagoon  is  crossed 
by  a huge  bridge.  — Graceland  and  Rosehill  Cemeteries,^  also  in  the  N.  Side, 
deserve  a visit. 

Tbe  S.  Side  parks  are  also  fine.  They  may  be  reached  by  the 
Illinois  Central  R.  R.,  by  the  South  Side  Elevated  R.  R.,  or  by  the 
Cottage  Grove  Ave.  cable-line;  but  the  best  plan  is  to  drive  through 
^IlSicbigan  Avenue  (Gen.  PI.  G,  4,  5)  and  *Drexel  Boulevard 
(Gen.  PI.  G,  6),  two  fine  residence-streets,  with  tasteful  houses  and 
ornamental  gardens.  Michigan  Avenue  also  contains  several  churches, 
the  Calumet  Club  (cor.  20th  St.),  numerous  large  hotels  and  apart- 
ment houses,  and  the  First  Regiment  Armoury  (PI.  C,  6;  entrance 
wide  enough  for  a whole  company  to  march  abreast).  In  Drexel 
Boulevard  is  the  handsome  Drexel  Memorial  Fountain,  We  may 
return  by  *Grand  Boulevard  (Gen.  PI.  G,  6). 

Palatine  Avenue  (Gen.  PI.  G,  4-7)  contains  the  residences  of  P.  D. 
Armour,,  Marshall  Field,,  the  late  George  M.  Pullman  (d.  1897),  and  others 
of  Chicago’s  magnates;  but  few  of  them  are  of  architectural  importance, 
J.  J,  GlessneFs  house,  by  Richardson,  being,  perhaps,  among  the  most  ' 


University. 


CHICAGO. 


48.  Route,  355 


esting  Adjoining  the  Pullmann  house,  at  the  foot  of  18th  St.,  is  the  Fort  Dear- 
born Massacre  Monument.^  commemorating  the  massacre  of  1812  (see  p.  348). 

^Washington  Park  (Gen.  PI.  G,  7;  371  acres)  and  *Jackson 
Park  (Gen.  PI.  H,  7,  8;  523  acres)  are  connected  by  a wide  boulevard 
known  as  the  Midway  Plaisance  (Gen.  PI.  G,  H,  7 ; park -phaetons, 
25  c.  each  pers.,  children  15  c.). 

Washington  Park  is  notable  for  its  fine  tree?,  its  flower  gardening,  its 
water-lily  ponds,  and  its  conservatory.  At  the  entrance  is  an  Equestrian 
Statue  of  Washington^  by  French  and  Potter.  — Jackson  Park  was  the  main 
site  of  the  World’s  Columbian  Exposition  of  1893  (comp.  p.  349),  but  nearly 
all  the  buildings  have  been  removed,  and  the  grounds  have  been  laid  out 
in  public  playing  fields,  drives,  beaches,  and  groves.  Piers  have  been 
constructed  for  the  use  of  pleasure-boats  in  the  lake,  and  bathing 
houses,  gymnasia,  and  a casino  have  been  erected.  Bridges  have  been 
thrown  across  several  arms  of  the  picturesque  lagoons  (electric  launches, 
etc.),  and  the  Japanese  Temple  on  Oalc  Island  remains  as  a memorial  of 
the  World’s  Fair.  The  reproduction  of  the  Convent  of  La  Rahida  has 
also  been  left  standing  as  a sanitarium  for  mothers  and  children.  At  the 
N.  end  of  the  park  is  the  *Field  Columbian  Museum  (open  9-4:  adm.  25  c 
free  on  Sat.  & Sun.  ^ Director,  Mr.  F.  T.  V.  Skiff\  formed  at  the  expense 
of  Mr.  Marshall  Field  out  of  the  Art  Building  of  the  Exhibition  and  con- 
taining natural  history,  anthropological,  and  other  collections  of  great 
extent,  interest,  and  value.  American  Ethnology  and  Economic  Geology 
are  especially  well  represented,  and  the  groups  of  large  mammals  are  ad- 
mirable. The  exhibition  of  the  means  of  transportation  include  full-sized 
reproductions  of  a Viking  ship  and  of  the  caravels  of  Columbus. 

The  W.  Side  parks : Douglas  Park  (Gen.  PI.  D,  4;  180  acres),  Gar- 
field Park  (Gen.  PI.  0,  3;  186  acres),  and  Humboldt  Park  (Gen.  PI. 
D,  2;  200  acres)  are  little  inferior  to  those  of  the  N.  and  S.  Sides. 
The  first  has  a good  natatorium,  while  Garfield  Park  has  an  elaborate 
band-stand,  a bicycle-track,  a conservatory,  and  a boat-house. 

Some  of  the  most  prominent  educational,  scientific,  and  char- 
itable institutions,  of  which  Chicago  is  justly  proud,  are  noted  below. 
The  University  of  Chicago  (Gen.  PI.  G,  7),  between  57th  and  59th 
Sts.,  opened  its  doors  in  1892  with  600  students  and  is  now  attended 
by  eight  times  that  number.  The  total  endowments  amount  to  about 
$ 10,000,000  (or,  including  value  of  buildings  and  equipments, 
$18,000,000),  of  which  Mr.  John  D.  Rockefeller  has  given  about 
$ 7,000,000  (1,400,000^).  The  ground  acquired  for  the  site  of  the 
university  includes  an  area  of  60  acres.  The  university  includes 
faculties  of  Arts,  Literature,  Science,  Commerce  and  Administra- 
tion, Education,  Medicine,  Law,  and  Divinity. 

About  thirty  different  buildings  have  already  been  erected,  mainly  of 
limestone  and  in  a Gothic  style,  from  the  designs  of  Mr.  H.  I.  Cobh  and 
Mr.  CooUdge.  Perhaps  the  most  successful  group  is  that  at  the  corner  of 
57th  St.  and  Lexington  Ave.,  including  an  Assembly  Hall,  a Students'  Club 
House,  the  University  Tower  (a  shortened  reproduction  of  Magdalen  Tower 
at  Oxford),  and  the  University  Commons  (a  reproduction  of  Christ  Church 
Hall,  Oxford).  Other  important  buildings  are  the  Cobb  Lecture  Hall,  the 
Kent  Chemical  Laboratory,  the  Ryerson  Physical  Laboratory,  the  Law  School 
(inspired  by  King’s  College  Chapel,  Cambridge),  the  Zoology,  Botany,  Phy- 
siology, and  Anatomy  Buildings,  the  Walker  Museum,  the  Haskell  Oriental 
Museum,  three  dormitories  for  women  and  two  dormitories  for  men.  The 
handsome  Bartlett  Gymnasium  was  opened  in  1904.  The  libraries  contain 

23*** 


350  Route  48. 


CHICAGO. 


Newberry  Library. 


400,000  volumes.  The  Yerkes  Observatory  at  Williams  Bay  on  Lake  Geneva 
(Wis. ; 91  M.  to  the  N.W.),  containing  one  of  the  largest  refracting  tele- 
scopes in  the  world  (40-inch  lens,  made  by  Alvan  Clark  ^ tube  TO  ft.  long), 
belongs  to  the  University  of  Chicago.  — Connected  with  the  University 
is  the  large  School  of  Education facing  the  Midway  Plaisance,  between 
Monroe  Ave.  and  Kimbark  Ave. 

Among  the  original  features  of  the  University  of  Chicago  may  be 
mentioned  the  continuousness  of  its  work  throughout  the  year  (even  in 
summer),  with  graduation  ceremonies  once  a quarter;  the  assignment  of 
the  junior  classes  to  the  care  of  an  independent  faculty;  the  separation 
of  the  sexes  in  the  instruction  of  the  junior  classes  and  their  cooperation 
in  the  senior  classes  ; the  ‘house'  system  (somewhat  resembling  the  college- 
system  of  Oxford  and  Cambridge),  under  which  groups  of  students  become 
practically  self-governing  under  general  supervision. 

The  * Newberry  Library  (Gen.  PL  F,  2) , endowed  by  the  late 
Mr.  Newberry  with  $3,000,000  (600,000L),  occupies  a handsome 
granite  structure  in  Walton  Place,  on  the  N.  side  of  the  city.  It 
(contains  250,000  vols.,  used  for  reference.  The  musical  and  med- 
ical collections  are  especially  noteworthy. 

Mr.  John  Grerar  (d.  1889)  bequeathed  $ 2,000,000  for  the  etablishment 
of  a similar  library  on  the  S.  Side,  which  is  to  be  devoted  to  science  and 
the  useful  arts.  The  nucleus  of  this  library  (80,000  vols.)  occupies  tem- 
porary quarters  on  the  6th  floor  of  the  Marshall  Field  Building  (p.  353). 

The  Chicago  Historical  Society  (open  free,  daily,  9-5),  one  of 
the  oldest  institutions  in  the  city  (1856),  possesses  numerous  paint- 
ings, MSS.,  and  historical  relics  relating  to  Chicago  and  the  North- 
West;  also  a library  of  25,000  books  and  50,000  pamphlets.  It  suf- 
fered irreparable  losses  in  the  great  fire  (p.  349),  but  now  occupies 
a fire-proof  edifice  at  the  corner  of  Dearborn  Ave.  and  Ontario  St. 
(PI.  C,  1),  in  which  even  the  furniture  is  of  metal. 

The  Churches  of  Chicago  are  comparatively  uninteresting.  Among  the 
most  important  are  the  R.  C.  Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Name.,  at  the  cor.  of 
Superior  and  N.  State  Sts.  (N.  Side);  the  Third  Presbyterian  Church.,  cot.  of 
Ashland  and  Ogden  Aves.  (Gen.  PI.  E,  3),  with  good  stained  glass;  the 
Church  of  the  Epiphany.,  at  the  cor.  of  Ashland  Ave.  and  Adams  St.,  not 
far  from  the  last;  the  Second  Presbyterian  Church.,  Michigan  Ave.,  cor.  20th 
St.  (Gen.  PI.  G,  4);  the  First  Church  of  Christ.,  Scientist.  Drexel  Boul.,  near 
40th  St.;  and  Plymouth  Chyrch.,  Michigan  Ave.,  near  25th  St.  (Gen.  PI.  F,  4). 

The  interesting  ‘Medical  District’,  in  the  W.  Side,  has  for  its  nucleus 
the  large  County  Hospital.,  near  which  are  the  Rush  Medical  College  (affiliated 
with  the  University  of  Chicago  ; 300  students),  the  College  of  Physicians  and 
Surgeons.,  the  Presbyterian  Hospital.,  the  Illinois  Training  School  for  Nurses., 
and  the  Chicago  Homeopathic  Medical  College. 

^Hull  House,  at  the  S.W.  cor.  of  Polk  and  S.  Halsted  Sts.  (Gen.  PI.  F,  3), 
is  a social  settlement  of  women  {Miss  Jane  Addams , Head  Resident), 
resembling  Toynbee  Hall  (see  BaedekeFs  London)  in  its  purpose  of  furnish- 
ing a social , intellectual , and  charitable  centre  for  the  surrounding 
district.  It  includes  an  art  building,  a free  kindergarten,  a creche,  a diet 
kitchen,  and  a free  gymnasium,  while  classes,  lectures,  and  concerts  of 
various  kinds  are  held.  , — The  Lewis  Institute,  founded  and  endowed  by 
the  late  Mr.  A.  A.  Lewis  and  opened  in  1896,  is  designed  to  furnish  a 
])ractical  education  to  boys  and  girls  at  a nominal  cost.  — The  Armour 
Mission,  at  the  corner  of  Armour  Ave.  and  33rd  St.,  includes  a mission  hall, 
a creche,  a library,  a kindergarten,  a free  dispensary,  etc.  The  Armour 
Institute,  one  of  the  best  equipped  institutions  for  higher  technical  education 
in  the  U.  S.,  has  been  endowed  by  its  founders  with  $3,000,000. 

In  Union  Pakk  (Gen.  PI.  E,  3)  is  the  Police  Monument,  erected  to  comme- 
morate the  policemen  killed  by  the  Anarchists  with  bombs  on  May  4th, 


Stoclcyards. 


CHICAGO. 


48,  Route.  367 


1886.  The  Anarchists  executed  for  complicity  in  the  bomb-throwing  are  also 
commemorated  in  a monument  at  Waldheim  Cemetery.  10  M.  to  the  W.  of 
the  City  Hall  (beyond  Gen.  PI.  A,  3-,  C.  <fe  N.  P.  R.  R.). 

F ew  travellers  will  leave  Chicago  without  a visit  to  the  famous  Union 
Stockyards  (Gen.  PI.  E,  F,  6),  The  yards  are  in  South  Halsted  St., 
5Y2M.  tothe  S.W.  of  the  City  Hall,  and  may  he  reached  hy  the  South 
Halsted  St.  or  Centre  Ave.  trolley-lines,  both  running  directly  to 
the  main  entrance  at  41st  St.  Visitors  are  freely  admitted  to  the 
yards  and  will  be  shown  round  by  a guide ; hut  it  is  advisable  to  be 
provided  with  an  introduction  to  one  of  the  great  packing-houses. 
Tues.  & Thurs.  are  the  best  days. 

The  yards  proper  cover  an  area  of  about  500  acres,  have  25  M.  of 
feeding-troughs,  and  20  M.  of  water-troughs,  and  can  accommodate  75,000 
cattle,  g00,0G0  hogs,  50,000  sheep,  and  5000  horses.  The  annual  receipts 
of  cattle  are  between  3 and  4 million  head,  besides  7-8  million  hogs,  3-4 
million  sheep,  and  100,000  horses,  with  a total  value  of  over  300  million 
dollars.  From  two-thirds  to  three- fourths  of  the  cattle  and  hogs  are 
killed  in  the  yards,  and  sent  out  in  the  form  of  meat.  About  25,000 
workers  are  employed  by  the  packing- houses,  and  the  annual  value  of 
their^  products  is  about  320  million  dollars.  The  largest  and  best-known 
packing-houses  are  those  of  Armour  & Co.  and  Swift  & Co.  These  firms 
employ  ab^t  14,000  men  and  produce  goods  to  the  annual  value  of  at 
least  $ 180,000,000,  including  canned  meats,  fertilizers,  glue,  butterine,  etc. 
The  processes  of  killing  the  cattle  and  hogs  are  extremely  ingenious  and 
expeditious,  and  will  interest  those  whose  nerves  are  strong  enough  to 
contemplate  with  equanimity  wholesale  slaughter  and  oceans  of  blood  — 
Market  is  held  in  a large  pavilion  (530  ft.  x 185  ft.),  seating 
4000  people.  — The  Stockyards  contain  a first-class  hotel  (Transit  House) 
and  have  a bank  and  newspaper  of  their  own.  The  Transit  Co.  uses 
30  locomotives  in  handling  the  livestock  between  the  yards  and  the  different 
railway-lines  and  has  245  M.  of  track. 

An  interesting  visit  may  be  made  to  one  of  the  large  Grain  Elevators, 
of  which  there  are  about  40,  with  an  aggregate  capacity  of  nearly 
30  million  bushels.  They  are  all  situated  on  the  river. 

A visit  to  {Florence  Hotel,  D.  $1),  14  M.  to  the  S.  of  the 

Court  House,  on  the  Illinois  Central  Railroad  (^/4  hr.),  may  be  included 
by  all  who  can  spare  half- a- day.  Pullman  was  built  by  the  Pullman 
Palace  Car  Co.,  and  is  a model  little  town,  artistically  planned,  scient- 
ifically constructed,  and  consisting  mainly  of  neat  workmen’s  houses. 
To  the  left  of  the  tasteful  station  are  the  ^Pullman  Car  Works,  the  various 
processes  of  which  are  full  of  interest.  About  150  Pullman  cars,  500  ordi- 
nary passenger-cars,  and  12,000  freight-cars  are  manufactured  annually, 
with  a total  value  of  10-12  million  dollars.  The  Pullman  Car  Co.  now 
owns  and  operates  2400  cars.  Among  the  chief  features  of  the  town  is  the 
Arcade,  a building  which  includes  shops,  a tasteful  theatre,  and  a free 
library  (80(X)  vols.).  The  population  of  the  town  is  about  12,0(X),  most  of 
whom  are  connected  with  the  Pullman  Car  Works.  The  Illinois  Supreme 
Court  having  decided  (1898)  that  the  Pullman  Co.  could  not  engage  in 
any  business  outside  its  charter,  the  company  has  offered  for  sale  all  its 
property  in  Pullman  except  the  car-works,  and  the  town  now  forms  part 
of  the  34th  ward  of  Chicago. 

Other  favourite  points  for  short  excursions  from  Chicago  are  Evanstcn, 
Michigan  City,  St.  Joseph,  Kenosha,  Grand  Haven,  Kewaunee,  Sturgeon  Bay 
(all  reached  by  steamer).  South  Haven,  Ottawa  Beach,  Lake  Forest  (p.  358), 
Highland  Park  (p.  358),  Winnetka,  etc.  The  part  of  Indiana  adjoining  Chicago 
reached  (e.g.)  via  (19  M.)  Indiana  Harbor  (South  Bay  Hotel, 
82-3),  is  said  to  be  an  excellent  district  for  cycling  and  motoring.  — The 
Chicago  Golf  Club  has  its  grounds  at  (25  M.)  Wheaton,  on  the  Chic.  & N.W. 
Railway  (comp,  also  p.  356). 


358 


49.  From  Chicago  to  Milwaakee. 

a.  Vi&  GMcago  & Nortli- Western  Railway. 

85  M.  Railway  in  2-3lirs.  (fare  $2.55^  chair-car  35c.). 

Chicago  (Wells  St.  Station),  see  p.  346.  The  line  runs  to  the  N. 
along  Lake  Michigan^  passing  many  small  stations  forming  suburban 
homes  for  Chicago  merchants.  The  lake  does  not  come  into  siglit 
till  beyond  Waukegan.  — As  we  leave  Chicago  we  see  the  Leering 
Works  (p.  349)  to  the  left.  — 12  M.  Evanston  (Avenue  House,  $2V2" 
3 '72)5  'witli  most  of  the  buildings  of  the  North-Western  University^ 
a Methodist  institution  with  3700  students.  Its  schools  of  medicine, 
law,  and  pharmacy  are  in  Chicago.  — 23  M.  Highland  Park  (Moiaine 
Hotel,  $ 3-10),  a favourite  resort  of  Chicago  business-men;  25  M, 
Fort  Sheridan , a U.  S.  military  post  with  a regiment  of  infantry, 
two  troops  of  cavalry,  and  two  batteries  of  artillery.  28  M.  Lake 
Forest^  another  place  with  the  pleasant  rural  homes  of  Chicagoans,  is 
the  seat  of  Lake  Forest  University  (135  students)  and  the  Ontwent- 
sia  Golf  Club.  36  M.  Waukegan^  with  2 M.  of  ‘Sheridan  Drive’ 
(comp.  pp.  354,  361).  — 42  M.  Zion  City  is  the  headquarters  of 
the  followers  of  John  A.  Dowie , whose  tenets  include  profound 
belief  in  the  efficacy  of  prayer  and  the  laying  on  of  hands.  Tlie 
‘city’  includes  a tabernacle,  a hospital  (without  physicians),  and  a 
college,  and  carries  on  manufactures  of  candy  and  Nottingham  lace. 
The  Overseer’s  house  is  named  Shiloh.  — A little  farther  on  we 
enter  Wiscdnsin  (the  ‘Badger  State’),  a fertile  agricultural  and 
lumbering  state,  with  numerous  interesting  Indian  mounds  and  large 
deposits  of  iron.  More  prehistoric  copper  implements  have  been 
found  here  than  in  any  other  state.  A very  large  number  of  the 
inhabitants  are  of  German  or  Scandinavian  stock. 

51  M.  Kenosha^  with  11,600  inhabitants,  a flourishing  trade  and 
industry,  and  the  large  Pennoyer  Sanitarium  ($  3-5),  seen  to  the 
right.  It  is  also  connected  with  Milwaukee  by  an  electric  railway.  — 
62  M.  Racine  (Hot.  Racine,  $272“'3  5 Merchants,  $2),  the  fourth  city 
of  Wisconsin,  with  (1900)  29,100  inhab.,  has  a good  lake-harbour 
and  carries  on  considerable  trade  and  manufactures  (waggons, 
buggies,  farm  implements,  etc.). 

85  M.  Milwaukee^  see  p.  359. 


b.  Vift.  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  & St.  Paul  Railway. 

85  M.  Railway  in  2-2V2hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Canal  St.  Station),  see  p.  346.  This  line  runs  nearly 
parallel  with  that  above  described,  but  a little  more  inland.  9 M. 
Mayfair;  15  M.  Oolf,  the  seat  of  the  Glen  Yiew  Golf  Club;  32 M. 
Rondout;  43  M.  Wadsworth;  52  M.  Ranney;  62  M.  Corliss^  for  a 
branch  to  (7M.)  Racine  (see  above).  — 85  M.  Milwaukee^  see  p.359. 


MILWAUKEE. 


49.  Routt,  359 


Milwaukee.  — Railway  Stations.  1.  Chicago  dh  W.  Railway 
(PI.  C,  3),  at  the  foot  of  Wisconsin  St.  — 2.  Union  Depot  (PI.  A,  B,  3j,  Everett 
St.,  for  the  Wis.  Central  and  C.  M.  & St.  P.  railways.  — 3.  South  Side 
or  Allis  Station  (PI.  B,  5),  cor.  Barclay  St.  and  National  Ave.,  a subsidiary 
station  of  the  C.  M.  & St.  P.  R.  R. 

Hotels.  Pfister  (PI.  b^  B,  3),  Wisconsin  St.,  cor.  of  Jefferson  St., 
$3-5,  R.  $172-31/2;  Plankinton  House  (PI.  a^  B,  3),  Grand  Ave.,  cor.  of 
West  Water  St.,  $ 21/2-5,  R.  from  $ I1/2;  Schlitz  Hotel  (PI.  c ^ B,  3),  Grand 
Ave.,  cor.  3rd  St.,  with  palm-garden,  R.  from  $ Republican  Ho.  (PI.  d: 
A,  B,  2),  cor.  Cedar  & 3rd  Sts.,  $2-31/2;  St.  Charles  (PI.  e;  B,3),  E.  Water 
St.,  $2-31/2;  Aberdeen  (PI.  f;  A,  3),  drand  Ave.,  near  the  intersection  of 
9th  St.,  $ 2-21/2;  Blatz  (PI.  g;  B,  2,  3)  opposite  the  City  Hall,  R.  from  $ 1. 

Restaurants.  At  the  Hotels;  Blatz  Hotel  Restaurant,^  I).  50  c.;  Pahst 
Theater-Oaf  & (see  below),  German;  F.  M.  C.  A.  Coffee  House,  143  Fourth 
St.;  Women's  Exchange,  415  Milwaukee  St. ; Railway  Restaurants  at  the  two 
main  stations  (see  above).  In  the  suburbs  are  numerous  pleasant  Beer 
Gardens,  in  the  German  style. 

Electric  Tramways  (fare  5c.)  traverse  the  principal  streets  and  run  to 
the  suburbs. 

Gabs  and  Hacks.  For  1-2  pers.  for  1 M.  or  between  the  railroad  de- 
pots $1,  for  2 M.  $11/2,  above  2 M.  $2,  each  addit.  pers.  50  c.  For  the 
first  hour  $1,  each  addit.  hr.  50  c. ; with  two  horses  $2  and  $1.  Baggage 
up  to  lOOlbs.  free;  excess  15  c.  per  package. 

Steamers  ply  regularly  to  Chicago  (comp.  p.  317)  and  to  all  the  chief 
places  on  the  Great  Lakes,  and  to  various  summer-resorts  near  Milwaukee. 

Theatres.  Alhambra  (P1.A,B,3),  cor.  Grand  Ave.  and  Fourth  St. ; Da- 
vidson's (PI.  A,B,3),  3rd  St.,  near  Graod  Ave. ; Bijou  (PI.  B,  3),  2nd  St. ; Pabst 
(Pi.  B,  2),  Oneida  St.,  performances  in  German ; Academy  of  Music  (PI.  B,  3), 
Milwaukee  St.  5 v , y, 

Post  Office  (PI.  C,  3),  Wisconsin  St.  (comp.  p.  360). 

Milwaukee  (580ft.  above  the  sea),  the  largest  city  in  Wisconsin 
and  one  of  the  chief  manufacturing  and  commercial  centres  of  the 
N.¥/.,  occupies  a pleasant  undulating  site  on  the  W.  shore  of  Lake 
Michigan,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Milwaukee.  An  excellent  harbour 
has  been  formed  by  the  erection  of  huge  breakwaters,  and  the  river 
admits  the  largest  lake-vessels  to  the  doors  of  the  warehouses.  The 
Milwaukee  receives  two  tributaries,  the  Menomonee  and  Kinnick- 
innic^  within  the  city.  The  city  is  well  built,  largely  of  a light- 
coloured  brick,  and  many  of  its  streets  are  lined  with  beautiful 
shade-trees,  recalling  some  of  the  older  E.  cities.  Among  the  finest 
residence  - streets  are  Grand  Avenue  (W.  S.),  Prospect  Avenue, 
Waverley  Place,  Juneau  Avenue,  Marshall  Street,  and  Astor  Street 
(E.  S.).  About  two -thirds  of  the  (1900)  285,315  inhab.  are  Ger- 
mans, which  may  account  for  its  successful  cultivation  of  music 
and  art.  There  are  no  fewer  than  75  musical  societies  in  the  city. 

Milwaukee  became  a village  in  1835  and  received  a city-charter  in 
1^6.  Its  growth  ha?  been  rapid,  particulaidy  in  the  last  20  years. 

The  chief  articles  of  its  extensive  commerce  are  grain,  flour,  and 
lumber.  Its  flour-mills  are  very  large  (daily  output  often  10,000 barrels), 
and  its  grain- elevators  have  a capacity  of  5V2  million  bushels.  Milwaukee 
lager  beer  (Pabst,  Schlitz,  Blatz,  etc.)  is  known  all  over  the  United  States, 
and  is  produced  annually  to  the  amount  of  over  3 million  barrels  (value 
$15,000,000).  Pork-packing  is  extensively  carried  on,  and  the  other  staple 
manufactures  include  leather,  machinery,  iron  and  steel  goods,  and  tobacco 
(total  value  in  1900,  $ 123,786,450). 


360  Route  49. 


MILWAUKEE. 


Federal  Building. 


Grand  Avenue  (PI.  A,  B,  3),  wMcli  runs  E.  and  W.,  contains 
many  of  tlie  cMef  buildings  and  best  shops,  while  Wisconsin  Street 
(PL  B,  C,  3)  and  East  Water  Street  (PI.  B,  2-4)  are  also  busy 
thoroughfares.  Among  the  most  prominent  buildings  are  the  new 
Federal  Building  (PI.  C,  3),  a handsome  structure  of  grey  granite 
in  a turreted  baronial  style,  erected  in  1896-98  at  a cost  of  about 
13/4  million  dollars,  occupying  the  block  bounded  by  Jefferson, 
Jackson,  Michigan,  and  Wisconsin  Sts.,  and  accommodating  the  Post 
Office.,  Custom  House.,  and  U.  S.  Court  House  (interior  finely  finished 
in  marble,  mosaics,  mahogany,  and  oak) ; the  County  Court  House 
(PI.  C,  2;  view  from  dome),  a brown  sandstone  edifice,  in  the  square 
bounded  by  Jefferson,  Jackson,  Oneida,  and  Biddle  Sts.;  the  tall 
Wells  Building  (P1.B,3),  at  the  corner  of  Milwaukee  and  Wisconsin 
Sts. ; the  Chamber  of  Commerce  (PI.  B,  3),  Michigan  St. ; Plymouth 
Church  (PI.  0,2),  a massive  but  unecclesiastical  building  at  the 
corner  of  Van  Bureii  and  Oneida  Sts. ; and  St.  Paul’s  Church  (Epis. ; 
PI.  0,  1,  2),  Marshall  St.  The  Exposition  Building  (PI.  A,  2),  in 
Cedar  St.,  contains  a roller  skating  rink  (adm.  15  c.,  skates  10  c.).  — 
The  Layton  Art  Gallery  (PI.  B,  0,  3),  a well-lighted  structure  at 
the  corner  of  Jefferson  and  Mason  Sts.,  has  some  interesting  pictures 
and  statues  (open  daily,  except  Mon.,  10-4,  Sun.  2-4;  adm.  on 
Wed.  & Frld.  25  c. ; catalogue  10  c.).  The  paintings  include  exam- 
ples of  Rosa  Bonheur,  Constable,  Corot,  Millet,  Achenbach,  Alma- 
Tadema,  Clays,  Inness,  Kensett,  Mauve,  Holmberg,  Pradilla,  Mes- 
dag,  Munkacsy,  Van  Marcke,  and  other  modern  masters.  In  the 
Sculpture  Hall  are  works  by  Hiram  Powers  and  Romanelli.  — 
The  magnificent  Public  Library  (PI.  A,  3),  in  Grand  Ave.,  between 
8th  and  9th  Sts.,  contains  150,000  vols.  and  a free  museum  of 
natural  history,  palaeontology,  etc.  — The  curiously  thin -looking 
City  Hall  (PI.  B,  2) , with  one  of  the  largest  bells  in  the  world, 
occupies  a triangular  site  bounded  by  E.  Water,  Market,  and 
Biddle  Streets. 

Other  notable  structures  in  the  business  district  are  the  Germania 
Building  (PI.  B,  3),  at  the  convergence  of  W.  Water,  Wells,  and  2nd  Sts., 
said  to  be  the  largest  and  best  equipped  building  of  any  German  newspaper 
in  America;  the  Evening  Wisconsin  Bu'ilding.,  cor.  Milwaukee  and  Michigan 
Streets;  the  Sentinel,  89  Mason  St.;  the  Neio  Insurance  Building  (PI.  B,  3), 
cor.  Broadway  and  Michigan  St.;  the  Mitchell  Building,  cor.  Michigan  and 
E.  Water  Sts.;  and  the  Pahst  Building  (PI.  B,  3),  cor.  Wisconsin  and 
E.  Water  Sts. 

Among  the  public  monuments  are  statues  of  Washington  (Grand  Ave.) 
and  Bergh,  the  philanthropist  (in  front  of  the  City  Hail),  and  the  Soldiers 
Monument,  at  the  cor.  of  10th  St.  and  Grand  Ave. 

Juneau  Park  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  laid  out  on  a bluff  overlooking  Lake 
Michigan,  contains  statues  of  Solomon  Juneau  (1793-1856),  the 
earliest  white  settler,  and  Leif  Ericson  (p.  109);  it  commands  fine 
views.  Lake  Park.,  farther  to  the  N.,  also  overlooks  the  lake.  Near  it 
is  the  North  Point  Pumping  Station.,  in  a tall  and  graceful  water 
tower.  A pleasant  drive  may  be  taken  to  the  N.  along  the  river 


Breweries. 


MILWAUKEE. 


49.  Route.  361 


to  (6  M.)  Whitefish  Bay  (with  concert-pavilion,  pier,  Ferris  wheel, 
and  other  attractions ; fare  hy  trolley  10  c.)  and  (8  M.)  Fox  Point. 
The  ^Forest  Home  Cemetery^  at  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  city,  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  burial-grounds  in  the  United  States.  The  attrac- 
tions of  Washington  Park.,  on  the  W.  limits  of  the  city,  include  a 
large  herd  of  deer. 

Visitors  to  Milwaukee  should  not  fail  to  inspect  one  of  the  great 
Breweries,  such  as  Pabst's  (Chestnut  St.  5 PI.  A,  2),  which  covers  34 
acres  and  produces  1,000,000  barrels  of  beer  annually;  and  the 
Grain  Elevators  and  Flour  Mills  will  also  repay  a visit.  — To  the  8. 
(Bay  View)  are  the  "^Rolling  Mills  of  the  Illinois  Steel  Co.,  covering 
154  acres  of  ground.  — To  the  S.W.,  chiefly  in  the  valley  of  the 
Menomonee,  are  the  large  Brick  Yards  that  produce  the  light- 
coloured  bricks  which  give  Milwaukee  the  name  of  ‘Cream  City’.  — 
To  the  N.,  along  the  Milwaukee  river,  are  extensive  Cement  Works. 

Sheridan  Drive.,  skirting  the  lake  to  the  S.  for  2 M.,  is  intended  to  be 
prolonged  so  as  ultimately  to  meet  the  boulevard  of  that  name  running  from 
Chicago  to  Fort  Sheridan  (see  p.  354).  — About  3M.  to  the  W.  of  the  centre 
of  the  city  is  the  National  Soldiers'  Home,  with  accommodation  for  2400  dis- 
abled soldiers  and  a fine  park  of  400  acres.  At  Wauwatosa,  2V2M.  to  the  W., 
are  the  large  County  Hospital  and  the  State  Fair  Grounds  (electric  car  lines, 
connecting  with  city  lines;  fare  5 c.).  — One  of  the  favourite  resorts  of 
Milwaukeans  is  Waukesha  (Fountain  Spring  Ho.,  $ 3-5),  a village  20  M.  to 
the  W.,  with  well-known  springs  (Bethesda,  White  Rock,  etc.),  the  water 
of  which  (efficacious  in  diabetes  and  Bright’s  disease)  is  exported  all  over 
the  United  States  and  to  Europe. 

Milwaukee  is  an  important  railway-centre,  lines  radiating  hence  to 
all  points  in  Wisconsin.  Those  running  to  the  N.  and  N.W.  reach  Mar- 
quette, Ashland,  Duluth,  and  other  points  on  Lake  Superior  (comp.  pp.  370- 
373).  From  Milwaukee  to  St.  Paul,  see  below. 


50.  From  Chicago  to  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis. 

a.  ViA  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  & St.  Paul  Kailway. 

420  M.  Railway  to  (410  M.)  St.  Paul  in  12i/2-13  hrs,  and  thence  to  (10  M.) 
Minneapolis  in  1/2-V4  kr.  more  (fare  §11.50;  parlor-car  $1,  sleeper  $2). 
The  fast  mail  line  of  this  service  is  the  route  via  La  Crosse,  described 
below ; but  some  trains  run  via  Madison  and  Prairie  du  Chien  or  via  Dubuque. 

From  Chicago  (Canal  St.  Station)  to  (85  M.)  Milwaukee,  see 
R.  49.  The  line  now  turns  to  the  W.  99  M.  Brookfield  is  the 
junction  of  the  line  via  Madison  (p.  362)  and  Prairie  du  Chien  (see 
p.  364  and  above),  which  diverges  to  the  left.  — 118  M.  Ocono- 
mowoc.  — 130  M.  Watertown  (Commercial,  $2),  an  industrial  city 
on  Rock  River  (good  water-power)  and  the  seat  of  the  N.W'.  Uni- 
versity (Lutheran;  140  students)  and  the  Sacred  Heart  University. 

Beyond  Watertown  our  line  runs  to  the  N.W.  150M.  Columbus; 
178  M.  Portage  City  (Rail.  Restaurant),  a trading  city  with  (1900) 
5460  inhah.,  at  the  head  of  the  navigation  of  the  Wisconsin.  195  M. 
Kilbourn  City  (Finch  Ho.,  $2-2^2)  Is  the  starting-point  for  a visit 
to  the  fantastic  ^Dalles  of  the  iV^sconsm(comp.  p.  505).  240  M.  Tomah; 


362  Route  50. 


MADISON. 


From  Chicago 


267  M.  Sparta.  — 283  M.  La  Crosse  (650  ft. ; Cameron  Ho..,  $2  V2  j Rail, 
Restaurant),  a flourisliing  city  of  (1900)  28,895  inliab.  on  the  E. 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  with  several  large  saw -mills,  annually 
turning  400,000,000  ft.  of  lumber  into  manufactured  products. 

We  now  cross  the  Mississippi,  here  V3  M.  wide,  enter  Minne- 
sota (the  ‘North  Star  State’),  and  ascend  on  the  W.  bank  of  the 
river,  through  picturesque  scenery  (views  to  the  right).  307  M. 
Winona  (The  Winona,  $ 2-4),  with  (1900)  19,714  inhab.,  is  one  of 
the  most  important  grain-shipping  points  in  the  country.  340  M. 
Wabasha  (Hurd  Ho.,  $ 2)  lies  near  the  foot  of  the  beautiful  ex- 
pansion of  the  Mississippi  known  as  *Lake  Pepin  (30  M.  long  and 
3-5  M.  wide).  352^0  M.  Lake  City  (Lyon,  $2)  and  (359  M.)  Fron- 
tenac  (Lake  Side,  $ 2)  are  two  favourite  resorts  in  this  beautiful 
district  (comp.  p.  404).  360  M.  Red  Wing;  390  M.  Hastings. 

410  M.  St.  Paul,  see  p.  365.  — 420  M.  Minneapolis,  see  p.  367. 

b.  Vi^  Chicago  & North-Western  Railway. 

421  M.  Railway  to  (409  M.)  St.  Paul  in  11V2-14  hrs.;  to  (421  M.)  Min- 
neapolis in  3/4  hr.  more  (fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Wells  St.  Station),  see  p.  346.  The  train  runs  to  the 
N.W.,  passing  various  suburban  stations.  63  M.  Harvard  Junction. 
Beyond  this  point  some  trains  run  via  (91  M.)  Beloit  (important 
college,  with  465  students) , just  inside  the  Wisconsin  boundary, 
and  others,  entering  Wisconsin  near  (71  M.)  Sharon,  run  via  (91  M.) 
Janesville  (cotton  and  woollen  mills;  trade  in  locally  grown  tobacco), 
re-uniting  at  (116  M.)  Evansville. 

13872  M.  Madison  (845  ft. ; Park  Hotel,  $ 3-4 ; Avenue,  Capitol, 
Ogden,  $2-272))  tLe  capital  of  Wisconsin,  a pleasant  city  of  (1900) 
19,164  inhab.,  situated  between  the  beautiful  * Lakes  Mendota, 
Monona,  and  Wingra.  The  State  Capitol,  a handsome  building, 
costing  nearly  $ 1,000,000,  was  partially  destroyed  by  fire  in  1904, 
but  has  been  fitted  for  temporary  re-occupancy,  and  will  be  re- 
placed by  a larger  and  better  structure.  Housed  in  the  Capitol 
are  the  State  Law  Library  (40,000  vols.)  and  the  offices  of  the 
Wisconsin  Free  Library  Commission.  The  University  of  Wisconsin, 
finely  situated  on  two  hills  overlooking  Lake  Mendota,  is  attended 
by  3000  students.  Its  observatory  (the  Washburn  Observatory)  is 
one  of  the  best  in  America;  its  departments  of  history,  economics, 
geology,  agriculture,  and  engineering  are  particularly  well-equipped 
and  have  national  reputations.  Opposite  the  campus  is  the  new 
building  of  the  "^Wisconsin  State  Historical  Society,  the  most  im- 
portant institution  of  the  kind  beyond  the  Alleghenies,  which  pos- 
sesses a reference  library  of  260,000  vols.  (its  collection  of  MSS. 
relating  to  the  West  being  exceptionally  important)  and  a historical 
and  ethnological  museum.  In  the  same  building  are  the  libraries 
of  the  University  (125,000  vols.)  and  the  Wisconsin  Academy  of 
Sciences,  Arts,  and  Letters  (10,000  vols.).  Madison  has  several 


to  St.  Paul.  DUBUQUE.  50.  Route.  363 

pretty  public  parbs  and  a system  of  attractive  pleasure  - drives 
35  M.  long. 

Beyond  Madison  we  pass  to  the  N.  of  the  pretty  Lake  Mendota 
(p.  362).  171  M.  Devil's  Lake,  seen  to  the  left;  176  M.  Barahoo, 
in  the  midst  of  what  promises  to  be  an  important  iron -mining 
district.  At  (213  M.)  Elroy  we  diverge  to  the  right  from  the  line  to 
La  Crosse  (p.  362)  and  traverse  a district  of  pine -forests.  Near 
(226  M.)  Camp  Douglas  we  see  several  isolated  rocks  of  fantastic 
(doubtless  water-worn)  formation.  299  M.  Augusta.  321 1/2  M.  Eau 
Claire,  with  (1900)  17,517  inhab.,  the  junction  of  the  branch  to 
Duluth  (p.  370),  is  an  important  lumbering  point  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Chippewa  River,  which  we  cross  here.  345  M. 
Menomonie.  — 389  M.  Hudson,  with  the  O.  W.  Holmes  Sanitarium 
($11/2-272)5  pleasantly  situated  on  the  E.  bank  of  Lake  St.  Croix. 
An  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  *Dalles  of  the  St.  Croix.  We  now 
cross  the  St.  Croix  and  enter  Minnesota  (p.  362). 

409  M.  St.  Paul,  see  p.365.  — 421  M.  Minneapolis,  see  p.  367. 

c.  Vi^  Illinois  Central  Eailroad  (Albert  Lea  Route). 

501  M.  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  to  (382  M.)  Albert  Lea;  BIinneapolis  & 
St.  Louis  R.  R.  thence  to  (490  M.)  Minneapolis  and  (501 M.)  St.  Paul(ib-iQ  hrs. : 
fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Illinois  Central  Station),  see  p.  346.  The  train  runs  to 
the  W.  through  a rich  agricultural  district  in  the  N.  part  of  Illi- 
nois. The  first  station  of  importance  is  (87  M.)  Rockford  (The  Nel- 
son, $21/2-31/2)5  a busy  industrial  city  with  31,000  inhab.,  on  the 
Eock  River.  114  M.  Freeport  (Brewster  Ho.,  $ 2),  on  the  Pecatonica, 
with  13,260  inhab.,  manufactures  buggies,  hardware,  machinery, 
boots,  and  musical  instruments.  166  M.  Galena  (De  Soto,  Grant,  $ 2), 
with  5000  inhab.,  was  once  the  home  of  Gen.  Grant  and  important 
for  its  river-trade  in  lead  and  zinc.  The  train  descends  the  valley 
of  the  Galena  and  crosses  the  Mississippi  by  a long  bridge. 

184 M.  Dubuque  (600  ft.;  Julien  Ho.,  $ 21/2-4;  Merchants,  $ 2), 
the  second  city  of  Iowa  and  the  chief  industrial  city  of  the  state, 
with  (1901)  36,297  inhab.,  large  railway-workshops  and  the  hand- 
some Carnegie-Stout  Free  Library.  It  is  the  centre  of  the  lead  and 
zinc  industries  of  the  N.W. 

Various  rivers  are  crossed  farther  on.  213  M.  Dyersville;  276 
Waterloo,  on  Red  Cedar  River,  with  12,580  inhab.  and  various  in- 
dustries. We  follow  the  valley  of  the  Cedar  River.  At  (323  M.)  Charles 
City  we  cross  the  C.  M.  & St.  P.  Railway.  Beyond  (355  M.)  Mona  we 
enter  Minnesota.  — 382M.  Albert  Lea  (1230ft. ; Winslow  Ho.,  $2; 
Albert,  from  $ 2)  is  a thriving  little  city  with  4500  inhabitants.  ^ — 
424  m.  Waterville;  463  M.  Mcrr^c^m;  482M.  Hopkins. 

490  M.  Minneapolis,  see  p.  367.  — 501  M.  St.  Paul,  see  p.  365. 


364  Route  50. 


PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN. 


d.  ViS.  Chicago,  Burlington,  & Quincy  Railroad. 

442 M.  Railway  in  13-141/2  brs.  (fares  as  above  \ free  reclining  chair  cars). 

Chicago  (Canal  St.  Station),  see  p.  346.  37  M.  Aurora  (650  ft. ; 
Bishop  Ho.,  $ 2V2”^)j  an  industrial  city  with  24,147  inhab.,  claims 
to  have  been  the  first  to  light  its  streets  by  electricity  (1881)  and 
has  the  large  workshops  of  the  C.  B.  & Q.  R.  R.  We  diverge  to  the 
right  (comp.  p.  494)  from  the  line  to  Kansas  City  (p.  507),  Omaha 
(p.  492),  and  Denver  (p.  513).  99  M.  Oregon.  We  now  follow  the 
tracks  of  the  Chicago,  Burlington,  and  Northern  Railroad.  From 
(145  M.)  Savanna  (Rail.  Restaurant)  the  line  runs  to  theN.  along  the 
E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi^  affording  numerous  fine  views  to  the  left. 
171  M.  Galena  Junction,  for  (4  M.)  Galena  (p.  363).  At  (185  M.) 
East  Dubuque,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  opposite  Dubuque  (also 
reached  by  trains  of  this  line),  we  enter  Wisconsin  (p.  358).  — 239  M. 
Prairie  du  Chien  (620  ft.;  Dousman  Ho.,  $3;  Commercial,  $2), 
with  (1900)  3232  inhab.,  was  a French  military  post  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  17th  cent,  and  lies  just  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wis- 
consin River.  298  M.  La  Crosse  (Rail.  Restaurant),  seep.  362;  326  M. 
East  Winona  opposite  Winona  (p.  362).  Numerous  small  stations. 

431  M.  St.  Paul,  see  p.  365.  — 442  M.  Minneapolis,  see  p.  367. 

e.  Via  Wisconsin  Central  Railway. 

475  M.  Railway  in  14Y2-15V2  hrs.  (fares  as  above*,  free  reclining  chair 
cars).  This  route  leads  through  the  most  productive  white  pine  (Pimis 
Strcbus)  district  in  the  world. 

Chicago  (Illinois  Central  Station),  see  p.  346.  This  line  runs 
towards  the  N.  48  M.  Grays  Lake  (Hotel,  $11/2);  54  M.  Lake 
Villa,  the  station  for  the  popular  Fox  Lake  (Mineola  Hotel,  $ 21/2)* 
We  enter  Wisconsin  beyond  (58  M.)  Antioch.  100  M.  Waukesha 
(p.  361).  At  (120  M.)  Rugby  Junction  we  join  the  Wisconsin  Cen- 
tral line  from  Milwaukee  (p.  359).  — 159  M.  Fond  du  Lac  (Pal- 
mer, $ 2-3;  Windsor,  $ IV2))  a manufacturing  city  of  (1900)  15,110 
inhab.,  with  a trade  in  lumber,  lies  at  the  S.  end  of  Lake  Winnebago 
(30  M.  long  and  10  M.  wide),  the  W.  shore  of  which  we  now  follow. 
176  M.  Oshkosh  (Athern,  Tremont  Ho.,  $ 2-3^2))  ^ city  of  (1900) 
28,284  inhab.,  with  saw-mills  and  factories,  is  the  seat  of  the  State 
Normal  School  and  the  State  Insane  Asylum.  At  (189  M.)  Neenah 
we  turn  to  the  left  (W.)  and  leave  the  lake.  252  M.  Stevens  Point, 
on  the  Wisconsin;  306  M.  Abbotsford;  360  M.  Chippewa  Falls,  with 
(1900)  8094  inhab.  and  a trade  in  lumber;  426  M.  New  Richmond 

465  M.  St.  Paul,  see  p.  365.  — 475  M.  Minneapolis,  see  p.  367. 

f.  Via,  Chicago  Great  Western  Railway. 

430  M.  Railway  in  12V2-15  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Harrison  St.  Station),  see  p.  346.  The  train  runs  at 
first  a little  to  theN.  of  W.  .52  M.  Sycamore;  126  M.  Stockton.  We 


ST.  PAUL. 


57.  Route.  365 


reach  the  Mississippi  at  (167  M.)  Dubuque  (see  p.  363).  197  M. 
Dyersville  (p.  363).  At  (240  M.)  Oelwein  (1040  ft.)  we  diverge  to 
the  right  (N.)  from  the  main  line  to  Kansas  City  (p.  507).  From 
(348  M.)  Dodge  Centre  a branch-line  runs  to  Mason  City,  the  seat  of 
Memorial  University. 

420  M.  St.  Paul,  see  below.  — 430  M.  Minneapolis,  see  p.  367. 

m 

g.  Via,  Chicago,  Rock  Island,  and  Pacific  Railway. 

524  M.  Railway  to  (514  M.)  St.  Paul  in  I53/4-I6V4  krs.-,  to  (524  M.) 
Minneapolis  in  3/4  hr.  more  (fares  as  above). 

From  Chicago  to  (222  M.)  West  Liberty , see  R.  85c.  Our  line 
now  diverges  to  the  right  (N.)  from  the  main  line  to  Omaha  and 
traverses  the  great  wheat-fields  of  N.  Iowa.  — 259  M.  Cedar  Rapids 
(see  p.493).  — 316  M.  Cedar  Falls.  — Beyond  (396  M.)  Northwood 
we  enter  Minnesota.  434  M.  Albert  Lea  (see  p.  363).  460  M.  Fari- 
bault, with  an  Anglican  cathedral.  — Our  line  now  runs  almost 
parallel  with  the  Illinois  Central  R.  R.  (see  p.  363). 

514  M.  St.  Paul,  see  below.  — 524  M.  Minneapolis,  see  p.  367. 


51.  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis. 

St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis,  the  ‘Twin  Cities’  of  the  West,  are  so 
intimately  associated  with  each  other  in  all  ways,  that  it  is  con- 
venient to  treat  of  them  together.  Though  their  centres  are  10  M. 
apart , they  have  extended  towards  each  other  so  as  almost  to  form 
one  large  city  with  over  360,000  inhabitants. 

St.  Paul.  — Union  Depot  (PI.  E,  2,  3),  on  tlie  river,  at  the  foot  of  Sib- 
ley St.,  used  by  most  of  the  railways;  Broadway  Depot  (PI.  E,  2),  Broad- 
way, between  E.  4th  St.  and  Prince  St.,  the  station  of  the  Minneapolis  & 
St.  Louis  R.  R.  and  of  trains  to  St.  Croix  Falls. 

Hotels,  *Ryan  (PI.  a;  D,  2),  cor.  Robert  <fe  6th  Sts.,  $3-5,  with  good 
cafe-restaurant;  ^Aberdeen,  cor.  of  Dayton  and  Virginia  Ave.  (beyond 
PI.  A,  2),  from  $4,  recommended  for  a prolonged  stay;  Merchants  (PI.  c; 
E,  3),  cor.  E.  3rd  & Jackson  Sts.,  commercial,  $2-3;  Windsor  (PI.  d;  C,  3), 
cor.  5th  <fe  St.  Peter  Sts.,  $272-5,  R.  from  $ 1,  a family  house;  Metropoli- 
tan (PI.  e;C,  3, 4),  S.W.  cor.  of  Washington  and  4th  Sts.,  $2-3,  R.  from  $1 ; 
BIagee’s  Bachelors’’  Hotel,  R.  $ 1-372;  The  Kendall,  R.  from  75  c. ; Astoria. 

Restaurants.  Magee,  347  Robert  St.;  Carling,  Robert  St.;  Neumann, 
cor.  6th  and  Cedar  Sts.;  Schebens,  15  E.  5th  St.;  Delicatessen,  Robert  St., 
near  4th  St.;  at  the  Ryan,  Windsor,  and  Metropolitan  hotels  (see  above); 
Railway  Restaurant,  at  the  Union  Depot.  — Frog's  legs  are  a common 
item  in  the  bills  of  fare  at  the  restaurants  of  St.  Paul  and  Minneapolis, 
which  are  said  to  be  the  largest  frog-markets  in  the  world  (5,000,000  frogs 
worth  $ 100,000,  sold  in  1903). 

Tramways.  St.  Paul  is  traversed  in  all  directions  by  an  excellent 
system  of  electric  and  cable  cars  (fare  5c.,  incl.  transfer  to  any  intersect- 
ing line).  — Interurban  Electric  Tramway  to  (10  M.)  Minneapolis  (two  lines: 

, Minneapolis  & St.  Paul’,  ‘Como  - Harriet') , starting  at  the  Ryan  Hotel 
(fare  10  c.;  74-I  hr.).  — An  electric  line  also  runs  from  St.  Paul  to  White 
Bear  Lake  (p.  367). 

Cabs.  For  1 pers.,  1 M.  50c.,  IV2  M.  75c.,  2 M.  $1;  each  addit. 
pers.  50c.  for  the  whole  hiring;  per  hr.  $1,  each  addit.  hr.  50c.,  with 
two  horses  $1 72  and  $ 1. 

Steamers  ply  to  all  points  on  the  Mississippi  (comp.  p.  403). 


366  Route  51. 


ST.  PAUL. 


City  Hall. 


Theatres.  Metropolitan  Opera  Ho.  (PI.  D,  2)  ^ Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  C,  3), 
6th  & St.  Peter  Sts.;  Star  Theatre  (PI.  D,  2).i 

Post  Office  (PI.  C,  3),  5th  St.,  near  Rice  Park  (T-7;  Sun.  9-10  a.m.). 

British  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  Edward  H.  Morphy. 

A good  folder,  ‘How  to  See  St.  Paul’,  is  issued  gratis  by  the  Chic., 
St.  Paul,  Minn.,  & Omaha  Railway. 

St.  Paul  (700-800  ft.  above  the  sea),  the  capital  of  Minnesota, 
is  finely  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Mississippi  mainly 
on  a series  of  terraces  rising  from  the  E.  (or  rather  N.)  bank.  The 
business  part  of  the  town  is  well-built  and  regularly  laid  out,  and 
the  suburban  quarters  contain  many  fine  streets  and  handsome  resi- 
dences. St.  Paul  is  a great  railway- centre , and  by  rail  and  river 
carries  on  a large  wholesale  and  retail  trade.  The  annual  value  of 
Its  industrial  products  in  1900  was  $ 38,500,000  (7,700,000z.).  The 
population  in  1900  was  163,065,  including  many  Scandinavians. 

The  first  white  settler,  a Canadian  voyageur,  built  a house  here  in 
1833,  and  in  1841  the  place  received  its  name  from  a French  priest.  In 
1854,  when  it  received  a city  charter,  it  contained  3000  inhab.,  and  since 
then  its  growth  has  been  very  rapid. 

The  traveller  in  St.  Paul  may  begin  his  visit  by  ascending  to  the 
top  of  the  ^Pioneer  Press  Office  (PI.  D,  2,  3),  a 13-story  building  at 
the  corner  of  4th  and  Roberts  Sts.  (elevator).  Another  good  view  is 
obtained  from  the  dome  of  the  Capitol  (PI.  0,2;  hard  to  climb;  key  on 
groundfloor).  The  library  of  the  State  Historical  Society^  in  the  Capitol, 
contains  40,000  books,  50,000  pamphlets,  and  many  patriotic  curios 
and  historical  relics.  The  State  Law  Library  has  25,000  volumes. 

A new  State  Capitol  is  now  being  constructed  Vs  M.  to  the  N.  of  the 
present  building  (beyond  PI.  B,  1),  near  the  junction  of  Cedar  and  Wabasha 
Sts.,  but  it  will  not  be  completed  till  1905.  This  is  a large  and  handsome 
edifice  of  granite  and  Georgia  marble,  with  a lofty  central  dome.  Its  cost, 
with  site,  is  estimated  at  five  million  dollars.  The  architect  is  Cass  Gilbert. 
Some  of  the  sculptural  decoration  is  by  D.  C.  French , while  the  mural 
paintings  inside  are  by  La  Farge.,  Simmons,  Blashfield.^  and  Garnsey. 

A little  to  the  S.  of  the  Capitol  are  the  large  and  fine  new 
Custom  House  (PI.  C,  3),  and  the  City  Hall  (PI.  C,  3),  the  latter 
a large  and  handsome  building,  erected  at  a cost  of  $ 1,000,000 
and  containing  the  Public  Library  (55,000  vols.).  — Among  other 
important  buildings  in  the  business-quarter  are  the  New  York  Life 
Insurance  Building  (PI.  C,  I),2),  cor.  6th  & Minnesota  Sts. ; the  R.  C. 
Cathedral  of  St.  Paul  (PI.  C,  3),  6th  St.,  cor.  of  St.  Peter  St.;  the 
High  School  (PI.  C,  1),  cor.  10th  & Minnesota  Sts.;  the  National 
Guard  Armoury  (PI.  C,  1),  opposite  the  last;  the  Globe  Building 
(PI.  D,  3),  4th  St.,  cor.  Cedar  St.;  the  Germania  Life  Insurance 
Office  (PI.  D,  3),  4th  St.,  cor.  Minnesota  St.  (fine  view  from  the 
roof-garden,  occupied  by  the  Commercial  Club);  the  former  Bank 
of  Minnesota  (PI.  D,  2),  now  used  for  various  offices;  the  Manhattan 
Building  (PI.  D,  2),  cor.  of  5th  & Robert  Sts.  ; the  Gilfillan  Building 
(PI.  D,  E,  2) ; the  Endicott  Arcade  (PI.  U,  2) ; the  Central  Presbyterian 
Church  (PI.  C,  2);  the  Bethel  Hotel  (PI.  B,  3),  resembling  the  Mills 
Hotel  of  New  York  (p.  38);  the  Minnesota  Club  House  (PI.  B,  3); 


) iBRA*^Y 

J JUiNOlS. 


Uotels.  MINNEAPOLIS.  5l.Eoute.3Q7 

the  odd-loohing  Peoples  Church  (PI.  A,  3);  and  the  Great  Northern 
Railway  Offices  (PI.  E,  2). 

The  finest  residence-street  is  ^Summit  Avenue  (PL  A,  B,  1,  2),  of 
which  Mr,  Schuyler  writes  that  very  few  streets  in  the  United  States 
‘give  in  as  high  a degree  the  sense  of  an  expenditure  liberal  without 
ostentation,  directed  by  skill,  and  restrained  by  taste’.  It  begins  at 
Wabasha  St.  and  runs  from  Summit  Park  (PI.  A,  2)  along  a high  ridge. 
The  most  prominent  dwelling  is  the  large  brown-stone  mansion  of  Mr. 
James  J.  Hill,  President  of  the  G.  N.  Railroad,  containing  a good  col- 
lection of  paintings  by  Corot,  Delacroix,  Courbet,Troyon,  Decamps,  etc. 

From  Summit  Ave.  the  visitor  may  descend  to  the  High  Bridge, 
a sloping  bridge  rising  rapidly  from  the  low  N.  (E.)  bank  of  the 
Mississippi  to  the  high  bluffs  on  the  S.  (W.)  side.  It  commands 
an  excellent  *View.  — To  the  W.  of  the  town,  near  the  W.  end  of 
Summit  Ave.,  by  the  river,  is  the  extensive  R^man  Catholic  Seminary 
of  St.  Thomas  Aquinas.  On  the  bluff  above,  at  the  end  of  Grand 
Ave.,  (parallel  to  Summit  Ave.),  are  the  various  buildings  of  the  Hill 
Seminary^  founded  by  Mr.  Hill  (see  above). 

The  Indian  Mounds.,  at  Dayton's  Bluff.,  on  the  Mississippi,  just  to  the 
E.  of  St.  Paul,  command  a fine  view  of  the  city  and  river.  Carver's  Cave., 
in  the  bluff,  was  named  from  Capt.  Jonathan  Carver,  who  made  a treaty 
with  the  Indians  here  in  1767.  Below  the  bluffs,  to  the  E.,  is  a State  Fish 
Hatchery.  — Lake  Como  and  Como  Park  (with  a famous  lily-pond)  lie  about 
3^/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  centre  of  the  city  (tramway).  — Fort  Snelling., 
a IT.  S.  military  post,  lies  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Minnesota,  6 M.  to  the  S.W.  of  St.  Paul,  and  maybe  reached 
by  electric  tramway  (5  c.),  by  the  C.  M.  & St.  P.  R.  R.,  or  by  steamer.  The 
I’ide  to  the  Fort  is  uninteresting,  except  for  the  view  from  the  High  Bridge 
(see  above).  — The  "Minnehaha  Falls  (see  p.  369)  may  be  reached  from  St. 
Paul  by  river  (steamers  in  summeij  or  by  the  C.  M.  & St.  P.  R.  R.  — The 
Minnesota  State  Fair  is  held  in  the  first  week  of  Sept,  in  the  extensive  Fair 
Grounds  to  the  N.W.  of  St.  Paul  (about  230,000  visitors  annually).  — The 
State  of  Minnesota  is  thickly  sown  with  lakes  (7-10,000  in  number,  cover- 
ing an  area  of  4160  sq.  M.),  and  a number  of  these  are  within  easy  reach 
of  St.  Paul.  Among  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  are  White  Bear  Lake 
(10  M.  ^ see  p.  370),  Bald  Eagle  Lake  (11  M. ; see  p.  370),  and  *Lake  Minne- 
tonka (20  M.  ^ see  p.  370). 

From  St.  Paul  down  the  Mississippi  to  St.  Louis.,  see  R.  64. 

Minneapolis  (10  M.)  may  be  reached  from  St.  Paul  by  railway 
(I/2  br.)  or  by  the  Interurban  Electric  Tramway  (p.  365 ; 3/4  br.). 

Minneapolis.  — Railway  Stations.  Union  Depot  (PI.  C,  1),  Bridge 
Sq.  5 Chicago.,  Milwaukee.,  & St.  Paul  (PI.  C,  D,  2,  3),  Washington  Ave. ^ 
Minneapolis  <&  St.  Louis  Railway  (PI.  A,  1),  Washington  Ave.  and  Fourth 
Ave.  FT.;  Chicago  Great  Western  Railway.,  Washington  Ave.  and  Tenth  Ave. 

Hotels.  *West  Hotel  (PI.  a^  A,  B,  2),  Hennepin  Ave.,  cor,  5th  St., 
$3-5;  Nicollet  Ho.  (PI.  b;  B,  2),  Washington  Ave.,  R.  from  $11/2;  The 
Holmes  (PI.  c;  A,  3),  Hennepin  Ave.,  $2V2-4,  R.  from  $ 1;  Brunswick  (PI.  d; 
B,  2),  R.  from  $ 1;  Vendome  (PI.  e;  B,  2),  4th  St.,  near  Hennepin  Ave.,  R. 
from  $ 1;  Hyser  (PI.  f;  B,  2),  cor.  of  4th  St.  & Nicollet  Ave.,  R.  from  $ 1. 

Restaurants,  Scheik's,  3rd  St.  S.,  near  First  Ave.;  at  the  Nicollet  Ho. 
(see  above);  Railway  Restaurant.,  at  the  Union  Depot;  Russell  Coffee  House., 
14  S.  Fourth  St.;  Regan's.,  17  S.  Fourth  St.;  *^Restaurant  on  12th  floor  of 
Guaranty  Loan  Building  (see  p.  368). 

Tramways  and  Cabs  as  in  St.  Paul  (see  p.  365).  The  Interurban  Lines 
(p.  365)  start  at  the  Nicollet  Hotel.  * 


368  Route  51. 


MINNEAPOLIS. 


Public  Library. 


Theatres.  Metropolitan  Opera  House  (PI.  B,  2),  Srd  St.  •,  Lyceum  (PI.  A,  3), 
Hennepin  Ave.^  Bijou  (PI.  B,  2),  Dewey  (PI.  B,  1),  Washington  Ave. 

Post  Office  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  3rd  St.  (7-7 ; Sun.  9-10  a.m.). 

Minneapolis  (800  ft.  above  the  sea),  the  largest  city  in  Minne- 
sota and  the  chief  flour-making  place  in  the  world , lies  on  both 
banks  of  the  Mississippi,  a little  above  St.  Paul,  at  the  point  where 
the  river  descends  over  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  The  population 
in  1900  was  202,718,  including  many  Scandinavians.  Minneapolis 
covers  a larger  area  (53  sq.  M.)  than  St.  Paul  and  is  not  so  much 
built  up;  but  it  contains  many  individual  edifices  that  are  un- 
excelled in  the  sis  ter- city,  while  numerous  trees  and  lawns  add  to  its 
attr?tctions, 

Minneapolis  owes  its  prosperity  and  rapid  growth  to  the  extensive 
and  fertile  agricultural  district  tributary  to  it,  and  to  the  splendid  water 
power  of  the  St.  Anthony  Falls,  with  an  available  perpendicular  fall  of 
50  ft.,  yielding  from  50*0^  to  100,000  horse-power.  The  falls  were  named 
by  Father  flennepin(p.  250)  in  1680,  but  it  was  not  till  1838  that  the  village 
of  St.  Anthony.^  now  included  in  Minneapolis,  was  founded  on  the  E.  bank 
of  the  river.  The  settlement  on  the  W.  bank,  which  received  the  name 
of  Minneapolis  (from  minne.^  the  Sioux  for  water,  and  the  Greek  i>oKs), 
was  founded  in  1852  and  became  a city  in  1867.  In  1870  the  population 
was  13,000,  and  in  1880  it  was  46,000,  while  the  next  decade  showed  an 
increase  of  252  per  cent.  x 

Its  Flour  Mills.,  20-25  in  number,  have  a daily  capacity  of  about  70, WO 
barrels  and  produce  about  16  million  barrels  annually.  Its  Lumber  Mills 
yearly  cut  5()0  million  ft.  of  timber.  The  total  annual  value  of  its  manu- 
factures, which  also  include  iron  goods,  machinery,  street-cars,  etc.,  was 
in  1900  about  $ 110,945,000  (22,189,000/.).  Its  trade  is  also  very  large,  the 
chief  import  being  grain  and  the  chief  exports  flour  and  timber. 

At  the  corner  of  Second  Ave.,  South  and  3rd  St.  stands  the  build- 
ing of  the  ^Guaranty  Loan  Building  Co.  (PI.  C,  2),  one  of  the 
best-equipped  office -buildings  in  the  United  States,  erected  in 
1888-90  at  a cost  of  $ 1,600,000.  The  roof  (172  ft.  high,  tower  48  ft. 
more)  is  laid  out  as  a garden  (concerts  in  summer)  and  commands 
an  excellent  *Yiew  of  the  city  (restaurant,  see  p.  367).  Adjacent  is 
the  Post  Office  (Pl.B,  C,  2),  in  a Romanesque  style. 

We  may  now  follow  3rd  St.  to  the  W.  to  Hennepin  Avenue 
(PL  A-C,  1-3)  and  turn  to  the  left.  To  the  left,  at  the  corner  of  N. 
5th  St.,  is  the  imposing  Lumber  Exchange  (PI.  B,  2).  To  the  right 
are  the  West  Hotel  (p.  367)  and  the  Masonic  Temple  (PL  A,  3).  Farther 
on,  at  the  corner  of  10th  St.,  is  the  ^Public  Library  and  Art  Gal- 
lery (PL  A,  3),  a Romanesque  structure,,  with  an  ornate  facade. 

The  Library  (125,000  vols.)  and  Reading  Rooms  (open  8.30  a.m.  to  10  p m.) 
are  on  the  first  floor.  Upstairs  is  the  Art  Gallery  (1012  & 1.30-6;  Sun., 
2-10),  containing  pictures,  casts,  bric-a-brac,  etc.  Among  the  pictures 
belonging  to  the  Gallery  are  De  NeuvilWs  ‘Storming  of  Tell  el-Kebir  and 
examples  of  David^  Lefebvre.,  Bierstadt^  Kaulbach.,  and  Washington  Allston. 
Among  the  Baker  ‘Incunabula’  are  two  that  belonged  to  Melanchthon.  -- 
On  the  second  floor  are  the  collections  of  the  Minnesota  Academy  of  Natural 
Sciences.  — The  building  also  includes  a School  of  Art. 

Adjoining  the  Public  Library  is  the  *First  Baptist  Church 
(PI.  A,  4).  The  *First  Unitarian  Church  (PL  A,  3),  at  the  corner  of 
Mary  Place  and  8th  St.,  is  also  a fine  building. 


Flour  Mills. 


MINNEAPOLIS. 


51.  Route.  369 


At  tlie  otter  end  of  Hennepin  Ave.  is  the  Union  Depot  (PI.  0,  1). 
The  bridge  at  its  foot  leads  to  the  pleasant  Nicollet  Island  (PL  C,  1). 
— Among  other  prominent  buildings  in  the  business-quarter  are 
the  new  *Court  House  & City  Hall  (PL  0,  3),  a handsome  build- 
ing in  4th  St.,  between  Third  Ave.  and  Fourth  Ave.,  completed  in 
1902  at  a cost  of  $ 3,000,000,  with  a tower  345  ft,  high  ('^View  of 
city);  the  *New  York  Life  Insurance  Building  (PL  B,  3),  5th  St.  and 
Second  Ave.,  with  an  elaborate  interior  (containing  a double  spiral 
staircase  inspired  by  the  rood  - screen  of  St.  Etienne  du  Mont  in 
Paris)  ; the  Bank  of  Commerce  (PL  B,  3) ; the  Qlohe  Building  (PL  B 2) ; 
the  Andrus  Building  (PL  B,  3);  the  Temple  Court  Building  (PL  B,  2); 
the  Glass  Block  Store  (PLB,  3) ; and  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  (Bl.  C,  3), 
3rd  St.  S.  and  Fourth  Ave. 

The  Flour  Mills  of  Minneapolis,  perhaps  its  most  characteristic 
sight,  are  congregated  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  near  St.  An^ 
thony's  Falls  (PL  H,  2 ; p.  368) ; and  no  one  should  leave  the  city 
without  a visit  to  them.  Previous  application  will  generally  secure 
admission  to  any  of  the  larger  mills. 

Little  is  now  to  be  seen  of  the  Falls^  which  are  ‘cribbed,  cabined,  and 
confined’  by  dams,  retaining  walls,  and  a huge  wooden  ‘apron’.  Among 
the  largest  mills  ave  those  of  the  Washhurn-Croshy  Co.^  on  the  right  hank, 
with  a production  of  16,000  barrels  a day.  The  Fillshury  A Mill  (office  in  the 
Guaranty  Loan  Building),  on  the  left  hank,  with  a capacity  of  12,500  bar- 
rels, is  the  largest  single  mill  in  the  world  (order  necessary  for  visitors; 
morning  the  best  time,  as  packers  often  stop  work  at  4 p.m.).  Comp, 
p.  368.  — The  Grain  Elevators^  with  a capacity  of  16 V2  million  bushels, 
are  also  interesting.  The  Union  Elevator  holds  2‘/2  million  bushels. 

A visit  should  also  be  paid  to  the  Lumber  Mills,  the  operations 
of  which  are  of  an  extremely  interesting  nature.  Most  of  them  are 
on  the  river,  above  the  town. 

The  mill  of  the  Bovey  Be  Laittre  Lumber  Co.^  3 M.  above  the  city 
(Camden  Place  electric  tramway),  is  a good  specimen  of  a modern  mill, 
cutting  25-30  million  feet  of  timber  yearly.  The  logs,  each  provided  with 
its  owner's  mark,  used  to  he  floated  down  the  river  and  guided  as  far  as 
possible  into  their  proper  ‘booms’,  but  they  are  now  largely  brought  by 
railway.  The  logs  which  come  by  river  are  drawn  up  an  inclined  plane 
into  the  mill  by  an  endless  chain  with  large  hooks,  passed  under  the 
‘gang’  saw,  and  sawn  into  planks  before  they  are  well  out  of  the  water. 
Among  the  various  improvements  in  machinery,  with  the  object  of  mini- 
mizing the  waste  of  sawdust,  are  the  wonderfully  delicate  band-saws. 

The  University  of  Minnesota  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
between  Eleventh  and  Eighteenth  Avenues,  S.E.  It  possesses  var- 
ious well-equipped  buildings  (*Yiew  from  tower  of  main  building) 
and  is  attended  by  3825  students  (both  sexes). 

Among  the  finest  residence-streets  are  Summit  Avenue  (to  the 
S.W.),  Linden  Avenue^  and  Harmon  Place. 

Minneapolis  is  adjoined  on  the  S.W.  by  several  little  lakes  {Lake  Cal- 
houn.^ Lake  Harriet.^  etc.),  in  connection  with  which  a fine  system  of  Parks 
(1600  acres)  Boulevards  (flbW.)  has  been  constructed,  affording  opportunity 
for  numerous  pleasant  drives.  — About  4 M.  to  the  S.  of  the  centre  of  the 
city  (reached  by  C.  M.  & St.  P.  R.  R.  or  by  electric  cars),  in  a pretty  glen 
preserved  as  a town-park,  are  the  graceful  "Falls  of  the  Minnehaha,  50  ft. 
high,  immortalized  by  Longfellow  and  only  wanting  a little  more  water 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  24 


370  Route  52. 


DULUTH. 


to  be  one  of  the  most  picturesque  cascades  in  the  country.  The  smaller 
fall  below  has  been  nicknamed  the  Minnegiggle.  On  the  opposite  side  of 
the  creek  is  the  Minnesota  Soldiers'*  Home  (fine  grounds).  About  2 M.  below 
the  falls  is  Fort  Snelling  (p.  367),  to  which  an  omnibus  runs  in  summer 
from  the  fork  near  the  falls. 

The  most  delightful  resort  near  Minneapolis  or  St.  Paul  is  *Lake 
Minnetonka  (520  ft.  above  the  sea),  which  lies  about  10  M.  to  the  S.W. 
of  the  former  city  and  is  easily  reached  from  either  by  railway.  The 
lake  is  singularly  irregular  in  outline,  and  with  a total  length  of  12-15  M. 
has  a shore-line  of  perhaps  150  M.  It  is  surrounded  with  low  wooded 
hills,  and  atfords  good  boating  and  fishing.  Steamers  ply  regularly  be- 
tween all  the  chief  points.  The  most  frequented  resorts  are  the  Hotel 
Del  Otero  ($3-5),  on  the  N.  shore,  reached  by  the  G.  N.  R.  R.^  the  Lake 
Park  Hotel  ($3^/2),  reached  by  the  M.  & St.  L.  R.  R. ; and  the  Hotel  St.  Louis 
(3  2),  on  the  E.  shore,  reached  direct  by  the  C.  M.  & St.  P.  R.  R.  There 
are  also  small  hotels  and  boarding-houses  at  Excelsior.,  Wayzata  (p.  374  5 the 
nearest  point  to  Minneapolis  and  the  starting-place  of  the  lake-steamers), 
and  other  points.  The  Upper  Lake  is  wilder  and  less  accessible  than  the 
Lower  Lake,  but  has  simple  hotel  and  boarding-house  accommodation.  The 
Minnehaha  (see  above)  flows  out  of  Lake  Minnetonka. 

From  Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul  to  Sadlt-Ste-Marie,  500  M.,  i/.,  St.  P., 
S.  Ste.  M.  Railway  in  16  hrs.  (fare  $12^  sleeper  $2.50).  — This  line 
runs  to  the  N.E.  through  Wisconsin  and  Michigan.  Stations  unimportant.  — 
600  M.  Sault- Ste- Marie.,  see  p.  374. 


52.  From  St.  Paul  to  Dulntli. 

152  M.  Northern  Pacific  Railway  (‘Duluth  Short  Line’)  in  4V2-7V3hrs. 
(fare  $4.30;  sleeper  $ 1.50).  — Other  routes  are  the  Eastern  Railway  of 
Minnesota  ( Great  Northern  R.  R.  System)  and  the  Chicago.,  St.  Paul.,  Minnea- 
poliSy  & Omaha  Railway. 

St.  Paulj  see  p.  365.  The  district  traversed  is  comparatively  un- 
interesting and  most  of  the  stations  are  unimportant.  At  first  we 
traverse  fields  of  Indian  corn  and  afterwards  tracts  of  unreclaimed 
forest.  Soon  after  leaving  St.  Paul  we  pass  between  (12  M.)  White 
Bear  Lake  (to  the  right)  and  (13  M.)  Bald  Eagle  Lake  (to  the  left), 
two  favourite  summer -resorts  of  the  citizens,  of  St.  Paul  (good 
hotels).  25  M.  Forest  Lake  is  a similar  resort. 

152  M.  Duluth  (610  ft.;  Spalding  Hotels  $272”^;  St.  Louis^  $2- 
372;  McKay.,  $1-272)5  ambitiously  termed  the  ‘Zenith  City  of  the 
Unsalted  Seas’,  is  finely  situated  on  a bay  at  the  W.  end  of  Lake 
Superior,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Louis  River,  and  contained  52,969 
inhab.  in  1900.  In  1860  Duluth  contained  only  70  white  inhabitants, 
and  even  in  1885  it  had  only  3470;  it  owes  its  rapid  increase  and 
its  promise  of  future  greatness  to  its  situation  at  the  head  of  the 
navigation  of  the  Great  Lakes  and  its  extensive  railway-connections 
with  the  rich  agricultural  states  of  the  West  and  the  iron  regions 
to  the  N.  (p.  371).  It  possesses  a large  harbour,  entered  by  a short 
canal  (crossed  by  an  ingenious  aerial  bridge)  and  lined  with  docks 
and  warehouses,  and  carries  on  a very  large  trade  in  grain  and  lumber. 

The  annual  receipts  of  wheat  at  Duluth  amount  to  40  million  bushels, 
and  of  all  kinds  of  grain  70  million  bushels.  About  9000  vessels  enter 
and  clear  its  harbour  annually,  bringing  coal  and  taking  away  flour  and 
iron  ore.  The  mills  in  the  Duluth  district  produced  1150  million  feet  of 


DULUTH. 


52.  Eoute.  371 

lumber  in  1903.  Its  manufactures  include  flour,  iron  goods,  beer,  and 
matches. 

A great  part  of  Duluth  is  well  and  substantially  built.  Among 
the  most  prominent  buildings  are  the  Schools  (especially  the  High 
School),  the  Carnegie  Library,  the  First  National  Bank,  the  Lyceum 
Theatre,  the  Board  of  Trade,  the  Lonsdale,  Torrey,  Wolvin,  and 
Providence  Buildings,  St.  Luke's  Hospital,  tlie  warehouse  of  the 
Marshall  Wells  Hardware  Co.,  and  the  Patrick  Dry  Goods  Co. 
Building. 

The  ^Boulevard  Drive,  on  the  terrace  at  the  back  of  the  town  (an 
old  beach-line  of  Lake  Superior),  4-500  ft.  above  the  lake,  affords 
splendid  views  of  the  town  and  lake.  Lester  Park  lies  6 M.  to  the 
E.  of  the  business  centre. 

From  Duluth  to  Tower  and  Ely,  117  M.,  Duluth  <ft  Iron  Range  R.  R. 
in  47*2  hrs.  — This  line  runs  to  theN.E.,  dAong  iloe,  Bhove.  of  Lake  Superior, 
to  the  iron-shipping  port  of  (27  M.)  Two  Harbors  (3278  inhab.  in  1900), 
and  then  strikes  inland  (N.W.),  running  through  a district  studded  with 
small  lakes  (shooting  and  fishing).  — From  (73  M.)  .4 ZZew a branch 
line  runs  to  (27  M.)  Eveleth  (2752  inhab.),  in  the  Messabi  Range  (see  below). 
— 98  M.  Tower  (1366  inhab.  in  1900),  on  Lake  Vermilion,  is  the  starting- 
point  of  the  route  (stage  and  road)  to  the  Rainy  Lake  Gold  Fields  (through- 
fare  from  Duluth  $ 10).  — The  railway  turns  to  the  E.  and  runs  through 
the  Vermilion  Range  (see  below)  to  (117  M.)  Ely,  a small  mining-town  with 
(1900)  3717  inhabitants. 

From  Duluth  to  Mountain  Iron  and  Hibbing,  84  M.,  Duluth,  Missabe, 
& Northern  Railway  in  374-3 V2  hrs.  — This  line  runs  towards  the  N.  — 31  M. 
Columbia  Junction,  for  Stony  Brook;  66  M.  Iron  Junction,  for  lines  to  Eveleth 
(see  above),  Biwabik,  etc.  — At  (68  M.)  Wolf  the  railway  trifurcates,  the  arm 
to  the  right  going  to  (74  M.)  Virginia,  that  in  the  middle  to  (75  M.)  Moun- 
tain Iron,  and  that  to  the  left  to  (84  M.)  Hibbing  (2481  inhab.  in  1900),  three 
mining  camps  in  the  Messabi  Range  (see  below). 

The  two  railways  just  described  give  access  to  the  important  mining 
district  of  the  Messabi  and  Vermilion  Ranges,  which  in  1903  produced 
1472  million  tons  of  high-grade  iron  ore  (red  hematite).  In  the  same  year 
the  Lake  Superior  Iron  Region,  which  includes  the  Marquette,  Gogebic, 
and  Menominee  districts  (comp,  below  and  p.  372),  produced  24,3(30,600  tons 
of  iron.  Lake  Superior  ore  is  said  to  excel  even  the  best  Swedish  ores 
in  purity,  ease  of  working,  and  high  content  of  metallic  iron. 

53.  From  Duluth  to  Sault-Ste-Marie. 

a.  By  Railway. 

416  M.  Duluth,  South  Shore,  & Atlantic  Railway  in  1572  hrs.  (‘North 
Country  MaiP^  fare  $12^  sleeper  $2.50). 

Duluth,  see  p.  370.  We  cross  a drawbridge,  with  St.  Louis  Bay, 
into  which  the  St.  Louis  flows,  to  the  right,  and  Duluth  Harbour  to 
the  left,  and  enter  Wisconsin  (p.  358).  5 M.  West  Superior,  with  grain 
elevators  (one,  the  largest  in  the  world,  holding  6,000,000  bushels) 
and  ship -building  yards,  including  those  of  the  famous  ‘whale- 
back’  steel  ships;  9 M.  Superior  (31,090  inhab.  in  1900,  incl.  W. 
Superior),  with  a large  trade  in  flour,  timber,  and  coal.  Our  line 
runs  to  the  E.,  a little  to  the  S.  of  Lake  Superior  (p.  373). 

50  M.  Iron  River.  — 72  M.  Bibon  (965  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  a line 

24* 


372  Route  53» 


MARQUETTE. 


From  Duluth 


to  (22  M.)  Ashland  {Knight  Hotel,  $ 21/2-3 V2  5 Chequamegon,  $2-3; 
13,074  inhah.  in  1900),  the  shipping  - port  for  the  rich  hematite 
Bessemer  ore  of  the  Gogebic  Range  (3,000,000  tons  yearly).  Beyond 
(104  M.)  Saxon  we  pass  from  Wisconsin  to  Michigan  (p.  333).  128  M. 
Thomaston  (Rail.  Restaurant).  Lake  Gogebic  (1330  ft.)  lies  to  the 
right,  15  M.  farther  on.  192  M.  Sidnaw.  — 215  M.  Nestoria  (1650  ft.) 
is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (49  M.)  Houghton  (p.  373),  giving  access 
to  the  valuable  copper  mines  in  the  peninsula  of  Keweenaw, 

The  largest  of  these  is  the  famous  Calumet  and  Hecla,  one  of  the  most 
remunerative  mining  properties  in  the  world.  It  has  already  paid  about 
$ 60,000,000  (12,000,000 ^.)  in  dividends,  and  its  annual  profit  is  now  about 
$ 4, (XX), 000.  The  number  of  miners  is  4000.  Its  No.  4 shaft,  8100  ft.  deep, 
is  the  deepest  inclined  shaft  in  the  world,  and  its  Red  Jacket  Shaft 
(4920  ft.)  is  the  deepest  vertical  shaft  next  to  one  (18  ft.  deeper)  at  the 
Tamarack  Mine.  The  total  product  of  copper  in  this  district  (which  includes 
the  towns  of  Hancock,  Calumet,  etc.)  in  i901  was  nearly  150  million  pounds. 

223  M.  Michigamme  (1585ft.),  with  the  lake  of  that  name  to  the 
right.  The  numerous  mineral  trains  we  meet  bear  witness  to  the 
richness  of  the  iron-yielding  land  we  are  traversing.  Our  line  now 
begins  to  descend  rapidly.  — 246  M.  Ishpeming  (13,255  inhab.  in 
1900)  and  (249  M.)  Negaunee  (1440  ft.;  6935  inhab.  in  1900)  are 
the  two  chief  places  of  the  important  mining  district  of  the 
Marquette  Range,  which  in  1903  produced  3,040,000  tons  of  iron, 
besides  gold,  silver,  and  marble. 

About  30  M.  to  the  S.  is  the  Menominee  Range,  another  important  iron 
district  (output  in  1903,  1,741,000  tons). 

261  M.  Marquette  (600  ft.;  Marquette,  $2t/2-3;  Clifton,  $2-3; 
Rail,  Restaurant),  named  from  Pere  Marquette,  the  French  mission- 
ary and  explorer  (of  whom  a statue  has  been  erected) , is  a city  of 
(1900)  10,058  inhab.,  situated  on  Iron  Bay,  on  the  S.  shore  of  Lake 
Superior,  and  forming  the  chief  outlet  for  the  great  iron  district  of 
Michigan.  The  huge  iron  docks  and  wharves  are  seen  to  the  left. 
*Presque  Isle  Park  has  beautiful  walks  and  drives.  — The  train  now 
commands  glimpses  of  Lake  Superior  from  time  to  time,  but  beyond 
(291  M.)  Au  Train  runs  more  inland,  through  a heavily  timbered 
region  affording  no  views.  — 299  M.  Munising  Junction,  for  the 
short  branch-line  to  Munising,  a small  lake-port  with  an  iron-furnace 
(comp.  p.  373).  — 369  M.  Soo  Junction,  for  a line  to  (43  M.)  St.  Ignace 
(p.  338).  As  we  approach  Sault-Ste-Marie  we  skirt  the  St.  Mary^s 
River  (left),  connecting  Lake  Superior  with  Lake  Huron. 

416  M.  Sault-Ste-Marie,  see  p.  374. 

b.  By  Steamer. 

436  M.  Steamers  of  tbe  Northern  8.  S.  Co.  twice  weekly  in  one  day 
(fare  $ 8.50;  berth,  $ and  meals  extra);  of  tbe  Lake  Michigan  & Lake 
Superior  Transportation  Co.  weekly  in  two  days  (fare  8 13,  including  berth 
and  meals);  of  the  Anchor  Line  in  2^/2  days  (inclusive  fare  8 12;  extra 
charge  on  the  ‘Tionesta’’).  Regulations  similar  to  those  mentioned  at  p.  340. 

Lake  Superior  (600  ft.  above  the  sea)  is  the  largest  body  of  fresh 
water  on  the  globe,  being  380  M.  long,  and  160  M.  wide  at  its  widest 


to  Sault-Ste- Marie.  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


53.  Route.  373 


part,  with  an  area  of  about  31,500  sq.  M.  The  mean  depth  is  about 
900  ft.  The  lake  receives  the  waters  of  200  streams  and  contains 
numerous  islands,  chiefly  near  its  E.  and  W.  ends.  Its  coast-line  (ca. 
1500  M.)  is  irregular  and  generally  rock-bound,  some  of  its  cliffs 
and  mountains  being  very  picturesque.  The  water  is  clear  and  very 
cold  even  at  midsummer.  Lake  Superior  whiteflsh  (^Coreyonus  clupei- 
formis)  are  excellent,  and  other  varieties  of  fish  are  also  abundant. 

Duluth.^  see  p.  370.  The  steamer  steers  towards  the  E.  and  threads 
its  way  among  the  picturesque  Apostle  Islands  (ca.  25  in  all),  which 
lie  near  the  coast. 

80  M.  Bayfield  (Parks  Hotel , $ 2),  a seaside-resort , connected 
by  railway  and  small  steamer  with  Ashland  (p.  372).  About  50  M. 
farther  on  Porcupine  Mt.  (2025  ft.)  rises  conspicuously,  and  20  M. 
beyond  it  lies  Ontonagon.  The  steamers  are  saved  the  long  detour 
round  Keweenaw  Point  by  passing  through  Portage  Lake  (20  M.  long, 
1/2-^  M.  wide)  and  the  ship-canal  in  connection  with  it. 

200  M.  Houghton  (Douglas  House,  $272-^)?  with  3359  inhab 
lies  on  the  S.  bank  of  Portage  Lake,  in  a rich  copper  district 
(comp.  p.  372).  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Michigan  College  of  Mines. 
On  emerging  from  the  Portage  Entry  ^ as  this  passage  is  named, 
the  steamer  crosses  Keweenaw  Bay  and  steers  S.  E.  by  E.,  passing 
Point  Abbaye^  the  Huron  Islands^  Big  Bay  Pointy  and  Granite  Island. 

280  M.  Marquette,  see  p.  372. 

About  45  M.  beyond  Marquette  the  steamer  passes  Grand  Island 
and  then,  if  the  weather  permits,  approaches  as  near  shore  as  pos- 
sible to  afford  a view  of  what  is  considered  the  finest  piece  of  scen- 
ery on  the  trip,  the  so-called  ^Pictured  Bocks. 

These  rocks  are  a series  of  sandstone  bluffs,  300 ft.  high,  extending 
along  the  shore  of  Lake  Superior  for  a distance  of  5 M.  and  worn  by 
frost  and  storm  into  the  most  fantastic  and  romantic  forms.  They  owe 
their  name  to  the  vivid  hues  — red,  blue,  yellow,  green,  brown,  and 
gray  — with  which  they  are  stained.  Cascades  fall  over  the  rocks  at 
intervals.  Among  the  chief  points  (named  from  W.  to  E.)  are  Miner'‘s 
Castle^  Sail  Rock  (like  a sloop  in  full  sail),  the  Grand  Portal.^  and  the 
Chapel.  Those  who  wish  to  examine  the  Pictured  Rocks  satisfactorily 
should  disembark  at  Marquette,  proceed  thence  by  railway  to  Munising 
(p.  372),  and  there  hire  a small  boat.  This  is  the  heart  of  the  Hiawatha 
country,  and  Munising  occupies  the  site  of  the  ‘Wigwam  of  Nokomis’. 

About  20  M.  farther  on  the  steamer  passes  Point  au  Sable  (light- 
house), 60  M.  beyond  which  it  rounds  Whitefish  Point  (lighthouse) 
and  steers  to  the  S.E.  across  Whitefish  Bay  towards  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Mary's  River.  This  river  or  strait,  which  connects  Lake 
Superior  with  Lake  Huron  (comp.  p.  342),  is  about  65  M.  long  and 
has  several  islands  and  lake-like  expansions.  In  entering  it  we  pass 
through  Waiska  Bay^  with  Point  Iroquois  to  the  right  (U.  S.)  and 
Gros  Cap  to  the  left  (Canada).  The  St.  Mary  Rapids  are  avoided 
by  a ship-canal,  adjoining  which  lies  the  town  of  Sault-Ste-Marie^ 
generally  pronounced  ‘Soo  St.  Mary’  (see  p.  374). 

The  old  ""St.  Mary’s  or  Soo  Ship  Canal  was  constructed  by  the  State 
of  Michigan  in  1853-55  and  was  1800  yds.  long,  100ft.  wide,  and  12ft.  deep, 


374  Route  53. 


SAULT-STE-MARIE. 


with  two  locks,  each  350ft.  long.  The  present  canal,  constructed  by  the 
U.S.  Government  in  1881,  is  2330  yds.  long,  108  ft.  wide  at  its  narrowest  part 
(the  movable  dam),  and  16  ft.  deep.  Its  original  lock  is  515  ft.  long,  80  ft. 
wide,  and  39V2  ft.  deep.  It  has  a lift  of  18  ft.  and  can  hold  two  large 
lake -steamers.  The  total  cost  of  the  canal  enlargement  was  $2,150,000 
(430,000  Z.).  Even  this,  however,  proved  inadequate  for  the  increasing 
traffic,  and  an  enormous  new  lock,  on  the  site  of  the  two  old  locks  of 
1855,  was  opened  in  1896,  having  a length  of  800ft.,  a breadth  of  100  ft., 
and  a depth  of  431/4  ft.  It  can  accommodate  vessels  drawing  21  ft.  The  cost 
of  this  new  lock  and  the  accompanying  enlargement  of  the  canal  was 
about  $ 5,000,000  (1,000,000  i.).  The  lock  can  be  filled  and  emptied  in 
7 minutes.  — A Ship  Canal,  li/s  M.  long,  has  also  been  constructed  on  the 
Canadian  side  of  the  river  (see  Baedeker' a Canada). 

The  annual  tonnage  of  the  vessels  passing  through  the  8oo  Canal  is  about 
twice  as  great  as  that  passing  through  the  Suez  Canal.  In  1903  the  canal 
(including  the  Canadian  channel)  was  passed  by  18,598  vessels  with  an 
aggregate  tonnage  of  27,736,466  tons  (Suez  Canal  in  1902  15,694,359  tons). 

Sault-Ste-Marie  (615  ft.;  Iroquois,  $2-5;  Park,  from  $21/2; 
Arlington,  $2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a thriving  little  city  with  (1900) 
10,538  inhab.,  originated  in  a French  mission  established  here  in 
1641.  Its  position  on  the  Soo  Canal  and  at  the  convergence  of 
several  railways  gives  it  a considerable  commercial  importance, 
while  its  huge  chemical  and  other  works  show  its  growing  industrial 
importance.  To  the  E.  lies  Fort  Brady,  a U.  S.  military  post.  The 
Oovernment  Fish  Hatchery  is  another  object  of  interest.  The  St. 
Mary’s  River  is  crossed  here  by  the  fine  bridge  of  the  Canadian 
Pacific  Railway.  Frequent  steam-ferries  cross  to  the  Canadian /Saw if- 

Ste-Marie  (Algonquin  Ho.,  $ 172"*^;  P^p.  7169). 

One  of  the  things  to  ‘do’  at  the  Soo  is  to  shoot  the  Rapids  in  a canoe 
guided  by  an  Indian,  an  exciting  but  reasonably  safe  experience  (enquire 
at  hotels).  There  is  good  trout-fishing  above  the  Rapids  and  in  the  neigh- 
bouring streams,  and  the  Indians  catch  whitefish  with  scoop  nets  below 
the  Rapids.  The  island  of  Mackinac  (p.  338)  is  easily  reached  from  the 
Soo.  From  Sault-Ste-Marie  to  Buffalo  by  steamer,  see  R.  46 e. 


54.  From  St.  Paul  to  Winnipeg. 

a.  ViH.  Breckinridge. 

489  M.  Great  Northern  Railway  in  17^/2  hrs.  (fare  $14.20,  2nd  cl. 
$ 11.35;  Pullman  car  $3;  family  tourist-car  $ 1).  Through-tickets  are  issued 
to  points  on  the  Pacific  Coast  over  this  route  (‘Manitoba-Pacific  Route  ) in 
connection  with  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  (comp.  Baedeker's  Canada). 

Harvest  Excursion  Trains  from  St.  Paul  to  points  in  the  Red  River 
Valley  are  run  at  reduced  rates  in  summer  and  autumn  for  visitors  to  the 
wonderful  harvesting  operations  in  this  great  wheat  district  (comp.  p.  376). 

St.  Paul  and  (11  M.)  Minneapolis,  see  R.  51.  Our  train  now  runs 
to  tbe  N.W.  through  the  beautiful  Lake  Park  District  of  Minnesota, 
thickly  sprinkled  with  lakes  (comp.  p.  367).  From  (23  M.)  Wayzata, 
at  the  E.  end  of  Lake  Minnetonka  (see  p.  370),  a branch-line  runs 
to  Hotel  Del  Otero  (p.  370)  and  (7  M.)  Spring  Park.  Numerous  small 
stations  are  passed , in  a thriving  farming  district.  76  M.  Litchfield 
(Howard,  $2),  a summer-resort  on  Lake  Ripley.  — 102  M.  Willmar  is 
the  junction  of  a line  to  (147  M.)  Sioux  (‘Soo’)  Falls  (^Cataract  Ho., 


ST.  CLOUD. 


54.  Route.  37d 


$272-372)7  ill  South  Dakota  (‘Coyote  State’),  and  (225  M.)  Sioux 
City  (^Hot.  Qarretson.,  R.  from  $ 1 ; Mondamin,  $2-372)j  Iowa. 

The  first  of  these  has  a large  water-power  from  the  Big  Sioux  River 
and  contains  10,266  inhab.  and  extensive  flonr-mills.  It  is  the  seat  of  the 
Dakota  Penitentiary  and  the  State  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institute.  — Sioux  City 
is  an  important  manufacturing  centre  with  (1900)  33,111  inhab.,  a large 
foundry,  and  several  pork  and  beef  packing  houses. 

From  (132  M.)  Benson  a line  runs  to  Watertown  and  Huron. 
Other  lines  diverge  to  the  W.  and  E.  at  (192  M.)  Tintah  Junction 
and  (197  M.)  Yarmouth.  At  (214  M.)  Breckinridge  we  reach  the 
Red  River  (p.  376),  which  we  cross  to  (215  M.)  Wahpeton  (960  ft.; 
2228  inhab.),  in  North  Dakota  (p.  469). 

Two  lines  of  the  O.  N.  Ry.  ascend  the  Red  River  Valley  (p.  376), 
one  on  each  side  of  the  river.  Through-trains  generally  follow  that  on 
the  W.  bank,  which  they  reach  on  crossing  from  (260  M.)  Moorhead 
(p.  376)  to  (261  M.)  Fargo  (900  ft.;  p.  376),  where  the  G.  N.  Ry. 
intersects  the  Northern  Pacific  R.  R.  (R.  83).  We  are  here  joined  by 
the  line  running  via  Fergus  Falls  (see  below).  Fine  fields  0 fwheat 
are  passed.  — 339  M.  Grand  Forks  (830  ft.;  Northern.,  $2-272; 
Dacotah^  $ 2-4),  with  7652  inhab.,  large  lumber  mills,  and  the  State 
University  of  North  Dakota  (600  students),  is  the  junction  of  the 
G.  N.  R.  line  to  Montana  described  in  R.  82.  — 419  M.  Neche^  on  the 
49th  parallel  of  N.  lat.,  is  the  last  station  in  the  United  States,  and 
(420  M.)  Gretna  is  the  first  in  Canada  (custom-house  examination). 
We  now  run  over  the  tracks  of  the  Can.  Pacific  Railway^  through 
a district  peopled  with  Scots,  French  half-breeds,  and  Mennonites. 

489  M.  Winnipeg  {^Clarendon,  Queens.,  Leland  Ho..,  etc.),  see 
Baedeker  s Handbook  to  Canada. 

b.  Vi^  Fergus  Falls. 

472  M.  Great  Northern  Railway  in  171/2  brs.  (fares  as  above). 

St.  Paul  and  (11  M.)  Minneapolis.,  see  p.  365.  The  train  ascends 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi^  parallel  to  a track  on  the  other  side 
used  by  trains  running  towards  St.  Paul.  29  M.  Anoka  (3769  inhab. 
in  1900) ; 41  M.  Elk  River ; 47  M.  Monticello.  — At  (77  M.)  St.  Cloud 
(1030  ft.;  Grand  Central.,  $2),  a city  of  (1900)8663  inhab.,  with  large 
granite  quarries,  the  two  lines  from  St.  Paul  unite  with  that  from 
Duluth  (p.  370).  It  is  also  the  junction  of  a line  to  Willmar  (p.  374). 
— Farther  on  we  pass  through  a country  so  thickly  sprinkled  with 
lakes  that  the  line  has  often  had  to  be  led  across  them  on  trestles. 
From  (119  M.)  Sauk  Centre  a branch-line  runs  to  the  N.  to  (91  M.) 
Park  Rapids.  132  M.  Osakis  (Idlewild,  Lake  Ho.,  $2),  on  the  pretty 
lake  of  that  name,  is  a favourite  resort  of  summer-visitors  and  ang- 
lers. 144  M.  Alexandria  (Letson,  Geneva  Beach  Ho.,  $2),  another 
summer-resort,  has  good  fishing  and  shooting.  170  M.  Ashby  (Hotel 
Kittson,  $ 272)-  A.t  (189  M.)  Fergus  Falls  (Grand,  $ 2),  with  (1900) 
6072  inhab.,  the  descent  of  the  infant  Red  River  is  used  by  mills 
and  factories.  We  now  run  through  the  interminable  wheat-fields  of 


376  Route  54. 


RED  RIVER  VALLEY. 


the  fertile  Red  River  Valley,  one  of  the  great  wheat-growing  regions 
of  the  world,  its  crop  often  amounting  to  60  million  bushels.  Num- 
erous grain-elevators  are  seen  in  all  directions.  ‘220  M.  Barnesville  is 
the  point  where  the  double  line  up  the  Red  River  Valley,  mentioned 
at  p.  375,  begins. — 243  M.  Moorhead^  see  p.  471.  — 244 M.  Fargo^ 
see  p.  471.  Hence  to  (472  M.)  Winnipeg,  see  p.  375. 

c.  ViS.  Crookston  and  Pembina. 

483  M.  Northern  Pacific  Railway  in  17V2  livs.  (fares  as  above). 

From  St.  Paul  to  (225  M.)  Winnipeg  Junction^  see  p.  471.  Our 
line  here  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  main  line  (R.  S3)  and  runs 
to  t\\e^.W.i]iTOUgl[i  Red  River  Valley  (see  above).  — 293  M.  Crookston 
(p.  467);  321  M.  Grand  Forks  (p.  375);  369  M.  Grafton.  Beyond 
(414  M.)  Pembina  we  enter  Canada.  Hence  to  (483  M.)  Winnipeg, 
see  Baedeker  s Handbook  to  Canada. 


56.  From  Chicago  to  St.  Louis. 

a.  Via  Illinois  Central  Railroad. 

293  M.  Railway  in  8-9V4  brs.  (fare  $7.50^  sleeper  $2,  parlor-car  $1, 
reclining  chair  car  free;  library-car  on  best  trains,  with  books  and  maga- 
zines). 

From  Chicago  to  (56  M.)  Kankakee,  see  p.  378.  Our  line  crosses 
the  Kankakee  River  and  runs  towards  the  S.,  through  an  ocean  of 
maize  or  Indian  corn.  At  (81  M.)  Gilman  the  St.  Louis  train  di- 
verges to  the  right  (S.W.)  from  the  through-line  to  Centralia,  Ful- 
ton, and  New  Orleans  (see  R.  63).  123  M.  Laurette,  the  junction 
of  a cross -line  to  Rantoul  (p.  402).  At  (148  M.)  Clinton  (Magill 
Ho.,  $172-*^))  a railway-centre  of  some  importance,  a branch-line 
diverges  to  (21  M.)  Decatur  (p.  377).  At  (170  M.)  Mt.  Pulaski  our 
line  is  crossed  by  that  from  Peoria  to  Evansville  (p.  394).  — 193  M. 
Springfield  377).  236  M.  Litchfield  (p.  377);  244  M.  Mt.  Olive; 
257  M.  Alhambra;  289  M.  Bridge  Junction;  290  M.  East  St.  Louis. 

293  M.  St.  Louis,  see  p.  389. 

It  should  be  noticed  that  some  of  the  trains  entering  St.  Louis,  both 
on  this  and  other  lines,  do  not  touch  E.  St.  Louis  but  cross  the  Merchants’ 
Bridc^e  (p.  394)  and  skirt  the  levee  on  the  W.  side  of  the  river. 


b.  Vi^  Chicago  and  Alton  Railway. 

284  M.  Railway  in  8-IOV2  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Canal  St.  Depot),  see  p.  346.  The  line  runs  to  the  S.W. 
through  the  prairies  of  Illinois , passing  at  first  several  suburban 
stations.  ^^U.Lockport  (2659  inhab.),  the  terminus  of  the  Chicago 
Drainage  Canal  (p.352);  37  M,  Joliet  (see  p.  493).  — 1 AM.  Dwight, 
the  original  home  of  Keeley’s  ‘Gold  Cure’. 

At  Dwight  diverges  (to  the  right)  the  line  for  (80  M.)  Peoria,  to  which 
solid  through  - trains  run  from  Chicago  in  4^4  hrs.  — Teona,  {jyattonal, 


SPRINGFIELD. 


55.  Route.  377 


$2-4^  Fey.,  $21/2-31/2;  The  Qrant^  $2-3),  a busy  industrial  city  with  (19C0) 
56-,  100  inhab.,  is  celebrated  for  its  whiskey  and  has  many  substantial 
buildings.  The  value  of  its  industrial  products  in  1900  was  $ 48,871,596. 
It  is  also  connected  by  through- trains  with  Kansas  City  and  St.  Louis. 

124  M.  Normal,  with  large  nurseries,  tlie  State  Normal  College, 
and  a Soldiers’  Orphan  Home.  — I26Y2  M.  Bloomington  (825ft.; 
The  Hills,  from  $2;  The  Illinois,  Folsom,  $2Y2)7  ^ busy  manu- 
facturing town  of  23,286  inhab.  and  an  important  railway-centre. 

185  M.  Springfield  (630  ft. ; Leland  Ho.,  St.  Nicholas,  $2), 
the  capital  of  Illinois,  is  a well-built  and  tree-shaded  city  of  34,1 59 
inhab.  (‘Flower  City’),  the  trade  and  industry  of  which  are  pro- 
moted by  the  rich  coal-mines  whose  smoke  is  visible  all  round. 
The  State  Capitol  is  a large  building,  with  a dome.  The  State  Arsenal 
and  the  extensive  manufactory  of  the  Illinois  Watch  Co.  repay  a visit. 
Oak  Ridge  Cemetery,  2 M.  to  the  N.,  contains  the  grave  of  Abraham 
Lincoln  (1809-65),  marked  by  a handsome  monument,  erected  in 
1 874  at  a cost  of  $ 200,000  (40,000 1.').  The  house  he  occupied  when 
elected  President  in  1861  is  in  Eighth  St.,  four  blocks  from  the 
Court  House.  It  now  belongs  to  the  State  and  is  open  to  the  public, 
but  its  contents  do  not  date  from  Lincoln’s  occupancy.  — 211  M. 
Girard;  252  M.  Godfrey.  — 2571/2  M.  Alton  (470  ft.;  Madison, 
$21/2)5  industrial  city  of  14,210  inhab.,  lies  on  high  ground 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  3 M.  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri.  In  1897  a monument  was  erected  here  to  Elijah  P.  Lovejoy 
(1802-37),  the  anti-slavery  martyr.  — The  train  descends  along  the 
Mississippi  and  at  (281  M.)  East  St.  Louis  crosses  it  by  a fine 
bridge  (p.  393). 

284  M.  St.  Louis,  see  R.  60. 

c.  Vi5.  Wabash  Railroad. 

286  M.  Railway  in  8-10  brs.  (fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Dearborn  Station),  see  p.  346.  The  course  of  this  line 
is  very  similar  to  those  above  described  and  offers  few  features  of 
great  interest.  Most  of  the  stations  named  below  are  points  of  junc- 
tion with  other  lines.  — 34  M.  Steele;  35  M.  Brisbane;  60  M. 
Essex;  67  M.  Reddick.  From  (93  M.)  Forrest  branch-lines  run  to 
(17  M.)  Pontiac  and  (37  M.)  Streator  and  to  (65  M.)  Peoria  (p.  377). 
113  M.  Gibson;  124  M.  Howard;  132  M.  Mansfield-,  140  M.  Lodge; 
146  M.  Monticello.  At  (153  M.)  Bement  we  cross  the  Wabash  line 
from  Detroit  to  Kansas  City.  — 173  M.  Decatur  (St.  Nicholas,  $2-3). 
a busy  railway-centre  (comp.  p.  376)  with  20,754  inhab.,  produced 
goods  to  the  value  of  nearly  $ 6,000,000  in  1900.  — 202  M.  Taylor- 
1/7^^6(4248 inhab.);  234 M.  Litchfield-,  248 M.  Staunton  (2786 inhab.); 
265  M.  Edwardsville  Junction,  for  (2M.)  Edwardsville  (4157 inhab.); 
278m.  Granite  City;  283  M.  East  St.  Louis, 

286  M.  St.  Louis,  see  R.  60. 


56.  From  Chicago  to  Cincinnati. 

a.  ViS.  Lafayette  and  Indianapolis. 

306  M.  Cleveland,  Cincinnati,  Chicago,  & St.  Louis  Railway  CBig 
Four  Line")  in  8-11  hrs.  (fare  $8;  sleeper  $2,  reclining-cliair  $1). 

Chicago  (Illinois  Central  Station),  see  p.  346.  Tlie  train  runs 
along  tlie  lake-front  (p.  350)  to  (9V2  M.)  Grand  Crossing  and  tlien 
turns  to  the  S.  (inland).  56  M.  Kankakee  (625  ft.),  a railway  and 
industrial  centre  with  13,600  inhah.,  on  the  Kankakee  River,  Our 
line  now  runs  to  the  S.E.  and  crosses  the  Kankakee  and /rc^uois  Rivers. 
Beyond  (86  M.)  Sheldon  we  enter  Indiana.  — 131  M.  Lafayette 
(590  ft.;  Lahr  Ho.,  $2V2-3V2),  an  industrial  city  of  18,116  inhah., 
at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Wabash  River.  Purdue  College  has 
1300  students  ofagriculture,  engineering,  and  other  practical  branches. 
The  battlefield  of  Tippecanoe  (see  p.  334)  lies  about  7 M.  to  the  N. 

195  M.  Indianapolis.  — Hotels.  Clatpool  (PI.  a;  B,  3),  from  $3; 
Denison  (PI.  b^  C,  2)-,  Grand  (PI.  c;  B,  3),  English  (PI.  d;  C,  2),  from  $21/25 
Spencer  (Pi.  e;  B,  3),  from  $2;  Occidental  (PI.  f:  B,  3).  — Electric  Cars  (5c.) 
traverse  the  chief  streets.  — Post  Office  (PI.  C,  3),  cor.  of  Pennsylvania  St. 
and  Market  St.  — Em'pire  Theatre  (PI.  C,  2):,  Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  C,  2). 
— Information  to  visitors  given  freely  at  the  Commercial  Club  (PI.  C,  2), 
603  Commercial  Club  Building. 

Indianapolis  (700  ft.),  founded  in  1821,  the  capital  and  largest 
city  of  Indiana,  with  (1900)  169,164  inhah.,  lies  on  the  W.  branch 
of  the  White  River,  in  the  midst  of  a wide  plain.  It  is  a great  railway- 
centre,  carries  on  an  extensive  trade  in  live-stock,  and  produces 
manufactures  to  the  value  of  75  million  dollars  (15,000,000  ^.)  an- 
nually. The  chief  attraction  of^he  city  lies  in  its  beautiful  residence- 
quarter,  the  tasteful  houses,  shady  streets,  and  grassy  lawns  of  which 
make  one  of  the  most  beautiful  scenes  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States. 

The  focus  of  the  city  is  the  circular  Monument  Place  (PI.  0,2, 3), 
from  which  four  wide  avenues  run  diagonally  to  the  four  corners  of 
the  city,  all  the  other  streets  being  laid  out  at  right  angles  to  each 
other.  In  the  centre  of  this  place  rises  the  *Soli)iers  and  Sailors 
Monument,  285  ft.  high,  by  Bruno  Schmitz  of  Berlin  (1893).  — 
A little  to  the  W.  is  the  State  Capitol  (PI.  B,  2,  3),  a large  building 
with  a central  tower  and  dome,  erected  at  a cost  of  $2,000,000.  The 
Court  House  (PI.  C,  3),  also  an  imposing  edifice,  lies  to  the  E.  of 
the  Monument. 

Other  large  and  important  buildings  are  the  Blind  Asylum  (PI.  C,  1), 
Y2  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  Monument;  the  United  States  Arsenal  (Pl.Y,  1), 
on  a hiU  to^^the  E.  of  the  city;  the  Deaf  ^ Dumb  Asylum  (PI.  E,  3), 
also  to  the  E.;  the  *Propylaeum  (PI.  C,  1,  2),  a unique  building, 
owned  and  controlled  by  a stock-company  of  women  for  literary 
purposes;  the  Union  Railway  Station  (PI.  B,  C,  3,  4);  the  Post 
(PL  C,  3);  the  City  Hall',  the  Public  Library  (PI.  C,  2;  100,000 
vols.);  and  several  Churches.  The  Central  Hospital  for  the  Insane 
lies  IV?  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  city,  beyond  the  White  River.  The 


RICHMOND. 


56.  Route.  379 


Riverside  (N.W.),  Broad  Ripple  (N.),  BrooMde  (N.E.),  Fairview 
(N.),  and  Garfield  (S.)  Parks  deserve  mention.  A visit  may  be  paid 
to  Crown  Hill  Cemetery,  2 M.  to  tbe  N.,  and  to  some  of  tbe  large 
Manufactories  (iron,  terracotta,  pork-packers)  and  tbe  Union  Stock- 
yards  (to  tbe  S.W.,  beyond  PI.  A,  4). 

Indianapolis  is  a great  centre  of  electric  railways,  which  radiate  hence 
in  all  directions.  That  running  to  Columbus  (p.  327  ^ about  7 hrs.)  is 
equipped  with  sleeping-cars. 

Beyond  Indianapolis  tbe  train  continues  to  run  towards  tbe 
S.E.  215  M.  Fairland;  242  M.  Qreenshurg.  Tbe  country  becomes 
somewhat  more  diversified  as  we  near  Cincinnati.  Numerous  small 
trestles  and  sand-pits  are  seen.  At  (283  M.)  Lawrencehurg  Junction 
we  reach  tbe  Ohio,  which  we  follow  to  tbe  E.  to  — 

306  M.  Cincinnati  (Central  Union  Station),  see  p.  384. 

b.  Via.  Logansport. 

299  M.  Pittsburg,  Cincinnati,  Chicago,  <fe  St.  Louis  Railway  (‘Pan 
Handle  Route’)  in  8-10  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

From  Chicago  to  (117  M.)  Logansport,  see  R.  44b.  At  (122  M.) 
'Anoka  Junction  our  line  diverges  to  the  right  from  that  to  Columbus 
and  Pittsburg  (see  p.  388).  176  M.  Anderson.  225  M.  Richmond 
(Westcott,  $21/2-472)7  with  18,226  inbab.,  is  tbe  entrepot  of  a rich 
agricultural  district.  At  (241  M.)  Eaton  we  turn  nearly  due  S.269  M. 
Hamilton,  an  industrial  town  with  23,914  inbab.,  on  tbe  Miami. 

299  M.  Cincinnati  (Pan  Handle  Depot),  see  p.  384. 

c.  Via,  the  Monon  Route. 

308  M.  Chicago,  Indianapolis,  & Louisville  Railway  to  (181  M.) 
Indianapolis  and  Cinncinnati,  Hamilton,  & Dayton  Railway  thence  to 
(308  M.)  Cinncinnati  in  hrs.  (through-carriages^  fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Dearborn  Station),  see  p.  346.  At  (21  M.)  Hammond 
(Majestic,  $2),  with  12,376  inbab.,  we  enter  Indiana.  Tbe  line 
then  runs  S.E.  to  (88  M.)  Monon,  where  we  cross  tbe  C.  I.  & L. 
line  from  Michigan  City  (p.  339)  to  Louisville  (p.  395).  — 99  M. 
Monticello.  — At  (184  M.)  Indianapolis  (p.  378),  we  connect  with 
tbe  Cin.,  Hamilton,  & Dayton  line  from  Springfield.  — 223  M.  Rush- 
ville  (4541  inbab.) ; 231 M.  Connersville  (6836  inbab.).  At  (263  M.) 
College  Corner  we  enter  Ohio.  27272  Hamilton,  see  above. 

308  M.  Cinncinnati,  see  p.  384. 

57.  From  New  York  to  Cincinnati. 

a.  Via.  Pennsylvania  Railroad. 

757  M.  Railway  in  19-21  hrs.  (fare  $18*,  Pullman  car  $4). 

From  New  York  to  Philadelphia,  see  R.  31a;  from  Phila- 

delphia to  (444  M.)  Pittsburg,  see  R.  37 ; from  Pittsburg  to  (637  M.) 
Columbus,  see  R.  44  b. 


380  Route  57. 


CHARLOTTESVILLE. 


At  Columbus  our  line  diverges  to  tbe  left  (S.)  from  that  to 
Chicago  (comp. p. 327).  — 692 M. Xenia  (920ft.;  Florence,  $2-21/2), 
a city  of  8696inhab.,  with  paper-mills  and  twine  manufactures,  Wil- 
berforce  University  (400  coloured  students),  a large  Orphan's  Home, 
and  other  well-known  educational  and  charitable  institutions. 

757  M.  Cincinnati  (Pan  Handle  Depot),  see  p.  384. 


b.  Yik  Chesapeake  & Ohio  Railway. 

8*28  M.  Railway  in  24  hrs.  (fare  $18;  sleeper  $4).  The  F.  F.V.  (Fast 
Flying  Virginian)  Vestibule  Limited  Train  on  this  route  leaves  New  York 
at  5 p.m.  (no  extra  charge).  — The  scenery  on  this  route  is  varied  and 
often  very  fine,  especially  in  crossing  the  Blue  Ridge  and  Allegheny  Mts. 
and  in  the  valleys  of  the  Greenbrier  and  the  New  River.  Numerous  places 
connected  with  the  history  of  the  Civil  War  are  passed  in  Virginia.  The 
C.  & O.  Railway  issues  a ‘Battle  Field  Folder’  giving  particulars. 

From  New  York  to  (90  M.)  Philadelphia  (Pennsylvania  R.  R.), 
see  p.  257;  thence  to  (186  M.)  Baltimore (Pennai,.  R.  R.),  seep.  300; 
thence  to  (229  M.)  Washington  (Phil.,  Baltimore,  & Washington 
R.R.),  see  p.  308.  From  Washington  the  line  follows  the  tracks  of 
the  Southern  Railway  (see  R.  67a)  to  (313  M.)  Orange. 

At  (322  M.)  Gordonsville  (440  ft.),  the  scene  of  a battle  on 
Dec.  28th,  1864,  we  are  joined  by  the  line  from  Richmond  and  Old 
Point  Comfort.  Farther  on  we  have  Moore’s  Creek  first  on  one  side 
of  us  and  then  on  the  other. 

344  M.  Charlottesville  (400  ft. ; Jefferson  Park,  at  Fry  Springs, 
$21/2-3;  Gleason,  Clermont,  $3;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a town  of  6449 
iiihab.,  on  Moore’s  Creek,  is  of  interest  as  the  home  of  Jefferson  and 
the  site  of  the  University  of  Virginia. 

The  University  of  Virginia  (visible  to  the  left  from  the  train),  founded 
in  1819,  mainly  through  the  exertions  of  Thomas  Jefferson,  lies  P/2  M. 
to  the  W.  of  the  town  (street  car  5 c.)  and  is  attended  by  600  students. 
The  original  buildings  erected  from  Jefferson’s  designs  consist  mainly  of 
parallel  ranges  of  one-story  dormitories,  the  inner  rows  bordering  a tree- 
shaded  campus,  at  one  end  of  which  stands  the  Rotunda  (view  from  roof), 
rebuilt  by  McKim,  Mead,  & White  in  1897  after  a fire.  The  new  buildings 
include  the  Lewis  Brooks  Museum  of  Natural  History  (8-6;  with  a facsimile 
of  the  mammoth)  and  a good  Observatory.  — Paniops  Academy,  2 M.  off,  is 
frequented  by  boys  from  all  over  the  country  and  also  from  abroad. 

Monticello,  the  home  of  Thomas  Jefferson  (1743-1826),  is  finely  situated 
on  a view-commanding  hill,  21/2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Charlottesville,  and  is 
an  interesting  example  of  the  architecture  of  the  period  (visitors  not  ad- 
mitted to  the  interior;  adm.  to  grounds  25c.).  The  great  statesman  is 
buried  in  a small  private  graveyard  adjoining  the  road  leading  to  the  house. 

A visit  may  be  paid  to  the  interesting  cellars  of  i\ie,  Monticello  Wine  Co., 
where  various  good  wines  are  produced  from  the  grapes  of  the  vicinity. 
The  Charlottesville  Woollen  Mills,  to  the  E.,  make  uniforms  for  army  officers 
and  West  Point  Cadets. 

Charlottesville,  or  its  immediate  vicinity,  is  also  associated  with  Frank- 
lin, Monroe,  Wirt,  Lewis  and  Clark  (the  explorer),  and  many  other  distin- 
guished Americans. 

From  Charlottesville  to  Lynchburg  and  the  South,  see  R.  69a. 

Our  line  now  runs  towards  tbe  W.  and  begins  to  ascend  among 
tbe  Blue  Ridge  Mts.,  threading  many  tunnels.  366  M.  Afton 


LEXINGTON. 


57.  Route.  381 


(1500  ft.;  Afton  Ho.,  $2;  Mountain  Top  Ho.,  IY2  Afton 

and  2000  ft.  above  the  sea,  $2),  pleasantly  situated  near  the  top 
of  tbe  ridge  (tunnel)  and  affording  fine  views  of  tbe  Piedmont  Valley 
far  below  us.  The  orchards  of  this  region  produce  the  famous 
‘Albemarle  pippin’.  At  (370  M.)  Basic  City  (Brandon,  $2-3)  we 
cross  the  Norfolk  & Western  R.  R.  (see  p.  430).  — 383  M.  Staunton 
(1385  ft.;  Eakleton,  $ 2-2Y2j  Palmer  Ho.,  $2),  an  industrial  town 
with  7289  inhab.  and  several  large  educational  institutions,  lies  on 
the  plateau  between  the  Blue  Ridge  and  the  Allegheny  Mts.,  at  the 
head  of  the  Shenandoah  Valley. 

Staunton  is  the  junction  of  a line  (B.  (feO.  R.  R.)  to  (36  M.)  Lexington 
{Lexington.^  $ 2-2V‘j),  the  seat  of  the  Washington  and  Lee  University  (300  stu- 
dents ^ good  portraits  by  C.  W.  Peale  of  Washington  and  Lafayette)  and 
the  Virginia  Military  Institute.  Generals  Robert  E.  Lee  and  '‘StonewalV  Jack- 
son  are  both  buried  here,  and  statues  of  them  have  been  erected. 

North  Mt.  (2075  ft.)  rises  to  the  right  near  (391  M.)  Swoope's 
( 1645  ft.).  4 1 5 M.  Goshen  (1600  ft. ; Allegheny  Hotel,  finely  situated 
on  a bluff  to  the  left,  $ 3-5)  is  the  junction  of  a narrow-gauge  line 
to  the  (9  M.)  Rockbridge  Alum  Springs  (2000  ft.;  Grand,  Brook, 
Central , $ 2-31/2)*  — 422  M.  Millboro  (1680  ft.)  is  the  station  for 
Millboro  Springs^  Bath  Alum  Springs^  etc.  — 439  M.  Clifton  Forge 
(1050  ft. ; Gladys  Hotel,  $ 2V2"3 ; Rail.  Restaurant),  on  the  Jackson 
River.,  is  the  junction  of  the  James  River  Branch  of  the  0.  & 0.  R.R. 
We  now  change  from  Eastern  to  Central  time.  To  the  left  flows  the 
picturesque  Jackson.  — From  (452  M.)  Covington  (1245  ft. ; Inter- 
mont,  $2-5)  a branch-line  runs  to  Hot  Springs. 

From  Covington  to  Hot  Springs,  25  M.,  railway  in  IV4  hr.  (through- 
sleeper  from  New  York  via  Washington).  — Mot  Springs  are  connected  by 
good  roads,  traversed  by  coaches,  with  {2'^ j 2 '^i.)  Healing  Springs  2,^.6.  (5  M.) 
Warm  Springs.  All  these  thermal  springs,  situated  in  a mountain-girt 
valley  2000-2500  ft.  above  sea-level,  are  used  both  for  drinking  and  bathing 
and  are  efficacious  in  gout,  rheumatism,  liver  and  cutaneous  complaints, 
dyspepsia,  scrofula,  etc.  All  are  provided  with  ample  hotel  and  cottage 
accommodation,  the  transient  rates  varying  from  $ 2 per  day  at  the  Healing 
Springs  Hotel  to  $ 3 and  upwards  per  day  at  the  *New  Homestead  and 
Virginia  Hotels  at  Hot  Springs  (cheaper  hy  the  week  or  longer).  The 
Alphin  ($  2>/2-3V2)  at  Hot  Springs,  a smaller  house , is  also  well  spoken 
of.  The  Hot  Springs  have  a temperature  of  78-110°  Fahr.,  the  Warm  Springs 
of  98°,  and  the  Healing  Springs  of  84°.  The  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood 
is  picturesque,  and  numerous  pleasant  excursions  can  be  made.  There  is 
a golf-course  at  Hot  Springs. 

Farther  on  we  cross  Dunlap  Creek  and  Jerry^s  Run  Fill,  220  ft. 
high  and  said  to  be  the  highest  railway-embankment  in  the  world. 
Both  before  and  after  (468  M.)  Alleghany  (2500  ft.),  on  the  crest 
of  the  Allegheny  Mts.,  we  thread  a long  tunnel.  Coaches  run  hence 
to  (9  M.)  Sweet  Chalybeate  Springs  (Hotel,  $2-272)  and  (10  M.) 
Sweet  Springs  (2000  ft.),  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  popular  of  Vir- 
ginian resorts  (water  good  for  dyspepsia,  dysentery,  etc.).  — The 
line  descends.  We  now  enter  West  Virginia. 

474  M.  Greenbrier  White  Sulphur  Springs  (1980  ft.;  * Grand 
Central  Hotel,  $31/2  per  day,  $21  per  week;  The  Greenbriar,  from 


382  Route  57.  WHITE  SULPHUR  SPRINGS.  From  New  York 


$ 3 ; numerous  boarding  bouses  and  cottages),  tbe  largest  and  most 
fashionable  of  tbe  Virginian  spas,  is  finely  situated  in  tbe  heart  of 
tbe  Alleghenies  and  is  visited  annually  by  thousands  of  guests. 

For  over  a century  the  Greenbrier  White  Sulphur  Springs  have  been 
the  typical  resort  of  the  wealth  and  aristocracy  of  the  Souths  and  the 
pictures  of  Southern  life,  beauty,  and  fashion  still  seen  here  will  be  found 
of  great  interest  by  the  European  or  Northern  visitor.  The  valley  is  well 
wooded  and  affords  delightful  drives.  The  gaiety  of  the  place  is  promoted 
by  numerous  balls  and  other  diversions. 

The  temperature  of  the  water  is  62°  Fahr.  and  its  chief  ingredients  are 
nitrogen,  oxygen,  carbonic  acid,  hydro-sulphuric  acid,  sulphates  of  lime  and 
magnesia,  and  carbonate  of  lime.  It  is  used  both  internally  and  exter- 
nally, and  is  efficacious  in  dyspepsia,  liver  complaints,  nervous  affections, 
gout,  rheumatism,  skin  diseases,  asthma,  etc.  Mud  baths  are  also  used. 
'J'he  spring  yields  80  gallons  per  minute.  La’-ge  swimming-baths. 

Among  the  most  prominent  of  the  mountains  enclosing  the  valley  are 
Kate's  Mt.  (3500ft  ),  1 M.  to  the  S.;  Greenbrier  (3500ft.),  1 M.  to  the  W., 
and  the  White  Rock  (3200  ft.),  3 M.  to  the  S.W. 

Tbe  train  now  descends  tbe  valley  of  tbe  Greenbrier.  Many 
tunnels.  Coaches  run  from  (491  M.)  Fort  Spring  (1625  ft.;  inn) 
to  (14  M.)  Salt  Sulphur  Springs  (Hotel,  $2^/2),  and  from  (507  M.) 
Lowell  (1550  ft.)  to  (12  M.)  Red  Sulphur  Springs  (Hotel,  $ 2^/2), 
resembling  tbe  Eaux  Bonnes  of  tbe  Pyrenees  (54®  babr.).  Beyond 
(519  M.)  Hinton  (1375  ft.)  we  follow  tbe  New  River,  with  its  ro- 
mantic falls.  541  M.  Quinnimont  (1195  ft.);  571  M.  HawWs  Nest 
(830  ft. ; hotel),  opposite  a huge  cliff  1200  ft.  high ; 580  M.  Kanawha 
Falls  (705  ft.),  with  a pretty  waterfall  on  tbe  Kanawha  River,  formed 
by  the  confluence  (2  M.  above)  of  tbe  New  River  and  tbe  Gauley. 

Tbe  train  now  leaves  tbe  picturesque  scenery  and  reaches  a more 
open  district.  Numerous  coal-mines.  To  tbe  right  flows  tbe  Kana- 
wha. — 616  M.  Charleston  (600  ft.;  Hot.  Ruffner,  $21/2-^72)? 
capital  of  West  Virginia,  a city  of  11,099  inbab.,  with  a State  House. 
A fine  bridge,  75  ft.  high,  leads  across  tbe  river  from  tbe  station  to 
tbe  city.  — At  (663  M.)  Guyandotte  (560  ft.)  we  reach  tbe  Ohio 
River.  666  M.  Huntington  (Rail.  Restaurant).  673  M.  Kenova  is 
named  from  its  position  at  tbe  conjunction  of  Kentucky,  Ohio,  and 
(W.)  Virginia.  At  (676  M.)  Catlettsburg  (545  ft.)  we  cross  the  Big 
Sandy  and  enter  Kentucky  (tbe  ‘Blue  Grass  State’).  Tbe  train  now 
follows  tbe  left  bank  of  tbe  Ohio  all  tbe  way  to  Cincinnati.  At 
(682  M.)  Ashland  (6800  inbab.)  tbe  line  forks,  tbe  left  branch 
running  via  Lexington  (p.  397)  to  (208  M.)  Louisville  (p.  395). 
686  M.  Russell  or  Ironton  (11,868  inbab.),  on  tbe  Ohio  (right)  bank 
of  tbe  river;  764  M.  Maysville ; 772  M.  South  Ripley;  824  M.  Newport 
(p.  387);  826  M.  Covington  (p.  887).  We  now  cross  tbe  Ohio  to  — 

828  M.  Cincinnati  ( Central  Union  Station),  see  p.  384. 


c.  Vi§.  Cleveland. 

886  M.  Railway  in 20-26  hrs.  (fare  $18;  sleeper  $4).  N.  Y.C.  R.  R.  to 
ai0M.)Buffalo;  LakeShoreRy.  thence  to  (Q2SU.)  Cleveland;  andC.  C.G.&bt  L. 
Ry.  thence  to  (886  M.)  Cincinnati.  Buffalo  may  also  be  reached  by  the  routes 
mentioned  at  pp.  242-248.  Through  sleeping-cars  on  the  express  trains. 


to  Cincinnati.  DAYTON.  57.  Route.  383 

From  New  York  to  (440  M.)  Buffalo.,  see  R.  28  a;  from  Buffalo 
to  (623  M.)  Cleveland.,  see  R.  46  a. 

From  Cleveland  tlie  railway  runs  towards  the  S.W.  Neither  the 
country  traversed  nor  the  stations  passed  are  of  special  interest. 
635  M.  Berea ; 698  M.  Crestline  (p.  326) ; 703  M.  Gallon  (p.  387) ; 
737  M.  Delaware  (925  ft.).  — 761  M.  Columbus,  see  p.  327.  — 
806  M.  Springfield  (990  ft.;  Arcade,  $272-61/2),  a manufacturing 
city  (agricultural  machinery,  etc. ; value  in  1900,  $ 12,777,000)  of 
38,253  inhah.,  with  fine  water-power  furnished  by  the  Lagonda  Creek 
and  Mad  River.  It  has  a large  trade  in  farm  products. 

830  M.  Dayton  (745  ft. ; Beckel  Ho.,  from  $ 21/2  5 Atlas,  R.  from 
$ 1),  a city  of  85,333  inhah.,  lies  at  the  confluence  of  the  Mad  River 
with  the  Great  Miami  and  manufactures  machinery,  flour,  paper, 
etc.,  to  the  value  (1900)  of  $35,700,000.  The  National  Cash 
Register  Co.'s  arrangements  for  the  welfare  of  its  2000  employees 
repay  a visit.  On  a hill  2 M.  to  the  W.  is  the  Central  National 
Soldiers’’  Home,  with  5000  inmates. 

886  M.  Cincinnati  (Central  Union  Station)^  see  p.  384. 

d.  Vifi  Baltimore  & Ohio  Railroad. 

780  M.  Railway  in  211/2-261/4  hrs.  (fare  $16^  sleeper  $4). 

From  New  York  to  (229  M.)  Washington,  see  R.  42b ; thence  to 
(480  M.y  Grafton,  see  R.  45. 

From  Grafton  the  line  runs  to  the  W.  through  a somewhat  un- 
interesting district,  with  petroleum-wells  and  coal-mines.  502  M. 
Clarksburg,  on  the  Monongahela.  584  M.  Parkersburg  (615  ft.;  Jack- 
son,  $ 2-372;  Blennerhassett,  $2-3),  a petroleum-trading  city,  with 
11,703  inhah.,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Little  Kanawha  and  Ohio. 
The  train  crosses  the  latter  river  by  a fine  bridge  and  enters  Ohio.  We 
now  pass  from  Eastern  to  Central  time  (p.  xviii).  586  M.  Belpre. 
— 621  M.  Athens  (655  ft.),  on  the  Hocking,  with  3066  inhah.  and 
Ohio  University  (550  students).  In  the  neighbourhood  are  several 
Indian  mounds.  — 681  M.  Chillicothe  (635ft.),  a city  of  12,976  in- 
hab.,  with  considerable  manufactures,  is  the  centre  of  a rich  agri- 
cultural district.  738  M.  Blanchester.  At  (755  M.)  Loveland  we 
cross  the  Miami.  769  M.  Norwood. 

780  M.  Cincinnati  (Central  Union  Station),  see  p.  384. 

e.  Vifi  Erie  Railroad. 

873  M.  Railway  in  24-33  hrs.  (fare  $16;  sleeper  $4).  Through-cars. 

From  New  York  to  (729  M.)  Marion  Junction,  see  R.  47  f.  From 
this  point  the  line  follows  much  the  same  route  as  the  C.  C.  C.  & 
St.  L.  Railway  (R.  57  c).  778  M.  Urbana  (1030  ft.),  an  industrial 
city  with  6808  inhab.,  is  the  seat  of  a Swedenborgian  College,  and 
of  the  University  of  Illinois,  with  3800  students.  792  M.  Springfield-, 
813  M.  Dayton  (see  above);  837  M.  Hamilton  (p.  379).  873  M. 
Cincinnati,  see  p.  384. 


384 


58.  Cincinnati. 

Railway  Stations.  Central  Union  Station  (.PI.  B,  5),  Central  Ave.  <fe  3rd 
St.,  used  by  the  C.  C.  C.  & St.  L.,  the  B.  & 0.,  the  C.  & O.,  the  L & N., 
and  other  lines;  Pan  Handle  or  Pennsylvania  Depot  (PI.  F,  4),  Pearl  & Butler 
Sts.,  for  the  Pennsylvania  lines,  the  L.  & N.  R.  R.,  etc.;  Cmcinnati^ 
Hamilton^  & Dayton  Depot  (PI.  C,  4,  5),  6th  St. ; Chesapeake  & Ohio  Station 
(PI.  B,  6),  4th  St.,  near  Smith  St.  ; Court  Street  Station  (PI.  E,  3),  for  the 
Cin.,  Lebanon,  & N.  R.  R.  and  other  lines.  — Omnibuses  and  Cabs  meet 
the  principal  trains  (to  the  hotels,  50  c.  each). 

Hotels.  Grand  Hotel  (PI.  a;  B,  4,  5),  Central  Ave.,  cor.  4th  St.,  $3-5, 
R.  from  $1V2;  "St.  Nicholas  (PI.  b;  B,  4),  Race  St.,  cor.  4th  St.,  R.  from 
$2;  Alms  Hotel,  cor.  of  McMillan  St.  and  Alms  PI.  (PI.  F,  G,  1),  $3-5; 
Burnet  Ho.  (PI.  d;  1),  4),  Vine  St.,  cor.  3rd  St.;  Gibson  Ho.  (PL  e;  B,  E,  4), 
Walnut  St.,  near  4th  St.,  $3-5,  R.  from  IV2;  Emery  (PI.  f;  B,  4),  R.  from 
$1;  Bennison,  cor.  of  5th  and  Main  Sts.,  R.  from  75  c.;  Honing,  422  Vine 
St.,  near  4th  St.  (for  men),  R.  from  $ 1;  Martins,  537  Walnut  St.;  Palace 
(PI.  g;  B 4),  $21^-31/2;  Sterling  (PI.  c;  C,  4),  Mound  St.,  from  $2;  The 
Stag  (PI.  h;  B,  4),  420  Vine  St.  (for  men),  R.  from  75  c.;  Munro,  29  W. 
7th  Street  (lor  men),  with  Turkish  Baths,  R.  from  $ 1. 

Restaurants.  -^St.  Nicholas  Hotels  see  above;  Stag  Cafi^  see  above; 
Gibson  Cafi^  Walnut  St.;  Majestic  Cafi^  526  Vine  St.;  Bismarck^  Mercantile 
Library  Building;  Martins^  see  above;  Salamoni^  9 Shillito  Ave.;  Women'' s 
Exchange^  Race  St.,  near  4th  St.  There  are  numerous  fair  restaurants  with 
moderate  charges  throughout  the  business-quarter.  — Beer  Gardens^  in  the 
German  style  (concerts  in  summer),  abound  on  the  bills  round  the  city. 

Tramways  (electric)  traverse  all  the  chief  streets  and  suburbs,  in- 
cluding Covington  and  Newport  (p.  387).  Some  of  them  afford  charming 
rides  of  5-15  M.  Uniform  fare  5 c.  — Cabs;  per  drive,  each  pers.  25-50  c.; 
with  two  horses,  1-2  pers.  $ 1,  each  addit.  pers.  50  c.;  per  hr.  $2,  each 
addit.  hr.  $ IV2;  heavy  luggage  extra.  — Four  Inclined  Planes  (similar 
to  those  at  Pittsburg,  p.  296)  ascend  to  the  tops  of  the  surrounding  hills; 
(1).  Mount  Adams  (PI.  E,  4);  (2).  Cincinnati  & Clifton  (PI.  B,  2);  (3).  Price's 
Hill  (PI.  A,  4);  (4).  Fairview  Heights  Incline  (PI.  C,  2).  Comp.  p.  386.  — 
Steamers  ply  to  the  chief  ports  on  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi. 

Theatres.  Grand  Opera  Ho.  (PI.  B,  4),  Vine  St.;  Walnut  St.  Theatre 
(PI.  B,  E,  4),  Walnut  St. ; Robinson's  Opera  Ho.  (Pl.B,  4),  cor.  Plum  & 9th 
Sts.;  Heuck's  (PI.  B,  3),  1213  Vine  St.;  People's  Theatre  (PI.  B,  3),  cor.  of 
13th  and  Vine  Sts.;  The  Lyceum  (formerly  Freeman’s  Th. ; PI.  B,  4),  Cen- 
tral Ave.;  Columbia  or  Fountain  Sq.  Theatre  (PI.  B,  4),  Lodge  Str.,  ad- 
joining Fountain  Sq.  Some  of  these  are  open  on  Sunday. 

Pleasure  Resorts  (open  in  summer,  with  theatrical  performances, 
concerts,  etc.;  much  frequented  by  all  classes).  Zoological  Gardens.,  see 
p.  386.  The  Lagoon  (beyond  PI.  A,  5),  on  the  Kentucky  side  of  the  river, 
opposite  Price's  Hill,  with  park  and  lake  (tramway  in  1/2  hr.,  5 c.).  — Chester 
Park.,  5 M.  to  the  N.  (tramway  5 c.),  with  a fine  bicycle-track.  — Coney 
Island.,  10  M.  up  the  river,  reached  by  hourly  steamers  from  the  foot  of 
Vine  St.  (PI.  E,  5).  — Clueen  City  Bathing  Beach  at  Bayton,  on  the  Kentucky 
side  of  the  river,  to  the  E.  of  Cinncinnati.  — Symphony  Concerts , every 
fortnight  in  winter  in  the  Springer  Music  Hall  (p.  386). 

Post  Office  (PI.  E,  4),  5th  St.  (6  a.m.  to  10  p.m.). 

Cincinnati  (430-550  ft.  above  the  sea),  the  second  city  of  Ohio' 
and  one  of  the  most  important  manufacturing  and  commercial  centres 
of  the  Middle  West,  is  finely  situated  on  several  terraces  rising  from 
the  right  (N.)  bank  of  the  Ohio  and  is  surrounded  by  an  amphi- 
theatre of  hills  400-500  ft.  high.  It  has  a frontage  of  14  M.  on  the 
river.  The  main  portion  of  the  city  is  regularly  laid  out  and  its 
streets  are  well  paved.  The  chief  shopping  district  is  bounded  by 
4th,  Main,  7th,  and  Elm  Sts.  The  best  residential  quarters  are 


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History* 


CINCINNATI. 


68.  Route.  385 


on  the  surrounding  highlands.  In  1900  Cincinnati  contained 
325,902  inhab.,  of  whom  about  a third  were  of  German  origin.  The 
Germans  formerly  resided  mainly  to  the  N.  of  the  Miami  Canal^  and 
that  district  is  known  as  ‘Over  the  Rhine’.  On  the  opposite  bank  ot 
the  Ohio,  in  Kentucky,  lie  the  cities  of  Covington  and  Newport 
(p.  387),  connected  with  Cincinnati  by  five  fine  bridges. 

Cinciniicati  was  settled  in  1788  and  named  in  honour  of  the  Society  of 
the  Cincinnati  (officers  of  the  Army  of  the  Revolution).  Mounds  con- 
taining relics  seem  to  indicate  that  part  of  the  site  was  occupied  in  pre- 
historic times.  By  the  beginning  of  the  19th  cent,  it  contained  about  7-800 
inhab.,  and  in  1819  it  received  its  city  charter.  Its  growth  dates  mainly 
from  the  construction  of  the  Miami  Canal  (1830)  and  the  advent  of  the 
railway  system  (1840).  In  1850  it  contained  115,436  inhab.,  in  1870  it  had 
216,239,  and  in  1880  it  had  255,708. 

Industry  and  Trade,  The  value  of  Cincinnati’s  manufactures  in  1900 
was  $157,800,000  (31,560,000^.),  produced  by  63,000  hands.  The  staple 
articles  include  iron,  machinery,  carriages,  boots  and  shoes,  furniture, 
ofuce-furnishings , pianos,  soap,  printing-ink,  decorative  pottery,  beer, 
tobacco,  and  whiskey.  Pork-packing  is  also  extensively  carried  on.  Its 
trade,  transacted  by  river  and  rail,  is  also  very  important. 


^Fountain  Square  (PI.  D,E,4),  an  expansion  of  5th  Street,  may, 
perhaps,  be  called  the  business-centre  of  the  city  and  from  it  start 
most  of  the  tramway-lines.  In  the  middle  of  the  square  stands 
the  *Tyler  Davidson  Fountain,  one  of  the  most  successful  works 
of  art  in  the  United  States,  erected  in  1871.  It  was  designed  by 
August  von  'Kreling  and  cast  at  the  Royal  Bronze  Foundry  at 
Munich.  To  the  N.,  at  the  corner  of  5th  St.  and  Walnut  St.,  is 
the  U.  S.  Government  Building  (PI.  E,4),  accommodating  the  Post 
Office,  Custom  House,  and  U.  S.  Law  Courts. 

By  following  5th  St.  to  the  W.  and  turning  to  the  left  down 
Vine  St.,  we  pass  the  entrance  to  the  Emery  Arcade  (PI.  D,  4)  and 
reach,  at  the  corner  of  the  busy  4ih  Street,  the  ’^Chamber  of  Com- 
merce (PI.  D,  4),  designed  by  H.  H.  Richardson  (p.  xciii)  and  per- 
haps the  finest  building  in  the  city.  Opposite,  at  the  N.E.  cor.  of 
4th  and  Vine  Sts.,  stands  the  huge  Ingolls  Building  (PI.  2),  14  stories 
high,  the  highest  wholly  concrete  building  in  the  world.  At  the  N.W. 
corner  of  the  same  streets  is  the  fine  Third  National  Bank  (PI.  4). 

Following  4th  St.  towards  the  W.,  we  soon  reach  Plum  Street 
(Pl.D,  4, 5),  which  we  may  follow  to  the  right  (N.)  to  *St.  Paul’s  Prot. 
Cathedral  (PI.  D,  4;  Epis.),  at  the  corner  of  7th  St.;  the  R.  C. 
Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  (PI.  T>,  4),  at  the  corner  of  8th  St.  (with  an 
alleged  Murillo  and  other  pictures);  and  the  Synagogue  (PI.  U,  4), 
opposite  the  last.  In  the  block  bounded  by  Central  Ave.  and  8th, 
9th,  and  Plum  Sts.  is  the  *City  Hall  (PI.  D,  4),  a large  red 
building  in  a Romanesque  style,  with  a lofty  tower  (*View),  erected 
at  a cost  ot  $ 1,600,000.  A little  to  the  E.,  in  Vine  St.,  between 
6th  & 7th  Sts.,  is  the  Public  Library  (PL  H,  4;  300,000  vols.). 

To  the  N.  of  this  point,  ‘over  the  Rhine’  (see  above),  is  Wash- 
ington Square  (PI.  D,  3),  with  the  Springer  Music  Hall  (p.  384)  and 
the  Exposition  Building. 


Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


25 


386  Route  58, 


CINCINNATI. 


Eden  Park. 


Among  other  buildings  may  be  mentioned  the  County  Court  House 
(PI.  E,  4),  St.  Xavier's  College  (PI.  E,  4),  the  Oddfellows'  Temple  (PI.  D,  4), 
the  Cincinnati  Hospital  (PI.  D,  3,  4),  the  huge  Workhouse.^  and  the  House  of 
Refuge  (both  beyond  PI.  B,  1).  Recently  constracted  buildings  of  the 
modern  type  include  the  Traction  Building  (PI.  5^  E,  4),  the  Mercantile 
Library  (PI.  E,  4),  the  Union  Trust  Building  (PI.  6^  D,  E,  4),  and  the  First 
National  Bank  (PI.  E,  4). 

The  chief  park  of  Cincinnati  is  Eden  Park  (PI.  E,  F,  2,  3),  216 
acres  in  extent,  which  lies  on  the  hills  to  the  E.  and  affords  fine  views 
of  the  city  and  river  (band  on  Sun.).  It  contains  the  Art  Museum 
(see  below),  the  main  reservoir  of  the  City  Water  Works,  the  High 
Service  Pumping  Station,  and  the  Water  Tower.  The  top  of  the  last 
(elevator),  a prominent  landmark,  affords  the  best  *View  of  the  city 
and  its  environs,  the  river,  and  the  Kentucky  Highlands. 

We  may  reach  the  park  by  the  electric  cars  from  Fountain  Sq.,  which 
are  elevated  bodily  by  the  inclined  plane  railway  (PI.  E,  4)  and  run  through 
the  park,  past  the  Art  Museum  (through-fare  5 c.).  [Near  the  head  of  the 
inclined  plane  is  the  Rookwood  Pottery  (see  below visitors  admitted).]  Or  we 
may  take  the  Gilbert  Ave.  electric  cars  to  the  Eden  Park  Entrance,  5 min. 
from  the  Art  Museum.  {Elsinore.^  a towered  gateway,  a little  farther  down 
Gilbert  Ave.,  on  this  route,  was  erected  by  the  City  Water  Works.] 

The  Art  Museum  (PL  F,  3),  a handsome  building  of  rusticated 
masonry  with  a red-tiled  roof,  is  open  daily,  9-5  (Sun.  1-5;  adm.  25  c., 
Sun.  & Sat.  10  c. ; catalogues  10  c.).  Adjacent  is  the  Art  School 
(500  students).  Both  are  maintained  by  a private  corporation. 

The  collections  include  Paintings,  Sculptures,  Engravings,  Etchings, 
Metal  Work,  Textile  Fabrics.,  Pottery,  American  Ethnology  and  Archaeology , etc. 
Among  the  pictures,  on  the  upper  floor,  are  specimens  of  Bol,  Calame,  Hay- 
don,  Lessing,  Maratta,  Rubens  (No.  93),  Tiepolo  (105),  Tintoretto  (106),  and 
modern  French,  German,  and  American  masters.  The  art  of  Wood  Carv- 
ing has  been  successfully  revived  at  Cincinnati,  and  the  specimens  of  this 
are  worth  attention.  Rookwood  Pottery  (see  above),  another  art-product  of 
Cincinnati,  is  also  well  represented  in  the  museum.  The  *^Bookwalter  Loan 
Collection  affords  good  illustrations  of  Oriental  art. 

From  the  top  of  the  Clifton  Heights  Inclined  Railway  (PI.  D,  2) 
we  may  go  by  electric  car  to  the  Burnet  Woods  Park  (PL  D,  1),  a 
fine  piece  of  natural  forest.  To  the  S.  of  it,  facing  Clifton  Ave. 
(PL  D,  1),  are  the  handsome  new  buildings  of  the  University  of  Cin- 
cinnati (1200  students).  — A good  view  is  obtained  from  the  top 
of  the  Price’s  Hill  Inclined  Plane  (PL  A,  4).  — The  *Spring  Grove 
Cemetery,  5 M.  to  the  N.W.,  is  picturesque  and  contains  some  in- 
teresting monuments.  — The  ^Zoological  Garden  (beyond  PL  J),  1 ; 
adm,  25  c. ; open  daily,  Sun.  included),  reached  by  electric  tramways 
from  Fountain  Square,  contains  a fine  collection  of  animals  and  is  a 
favourite  resort  (restaurant ; concerts). 

The  *Suspension  Bridge  (PL  E,  5),  connecting  Cincinnati  with 
Covington,  was  constructed  byRoebling  (p.  37)  in  1865  at  a cost  of 
$ 1,800,000  and  rebuilt  and  enlarged  in  1897  at  an  additional  cost 
of  $ 500,000.  It  is  2720  ft.  long  (including  the  approaches ; between 
the  towers  1005  ft.),  52  ft.  wide,  and  103  ft.  above  low-water  mark 
(toll  2 c.).  The  new  ^Central  Bridge  (PL  E,  F,  5)  is  a handsome 


Serpent  Mound. 


CINCINNATI. 


58.  Route.  387 


cantilever  structure  ; and  there  are  besides  three  Railway  Bridges., 
two  of  which  are  very  massive  and  impressive.  The  Levee  or  PuUic 
Landing  (PI.  E,  5),  below  the  Central  Bridge,  1000  ft.  long,  usually 
presents  a busy  and  animated  sight. 

Covington  (42,938  inhab.)  and  Newport  (28,300  inhab.)  are  two  uninter- 
esting cities  in  Kentucky,  which  need  not  detain  the  stranger.  They  are 
separated  from  each  other  by  the  Licking  River  (crossed  by  a suspension 
bridge)  and  contain  the  residences  of  many  Cincinnati  merchants.  The  U.  S. 
Government  Building  in  Covington  is  a good  specimen  of  modern  Gothic. 

Pleasant  drives  may  be  taken  to  Walnut  Hills.,  Avondale,  ML  Auburn, 
Clifton,  Spring  Grove,  Prices  Hill,  and  Fort  Thomas.  The  last,  one  of  the 
most  important  stations  of  the  U.  8.  army,  is  finely  situated  in  the  hills 
behind  Newport,  partly  on  a promontory  high  above  the  river  (view).  The 
daily  guard-mounting  is  accompanied  by  a concert  by  the  regimental  band, 
and  there  is  a dress-parade  daily  in  summer  (Sat.  and  Sun.  excepted). 
It  may  be  reached  by  electric  car  in  40  min.  (5  c.).  — The  church  of 
St.  Francis  de  Sales  (PI.  G,  1),  in  Walnut  Hills,  contains  the  lai’gest  bell 
in  N.  America,  weighing  15  tons. 

Cincinnati  will  probably  be  the  most  convenient  point  from  which 
the  scientific  traveller  can  visit  the  famous  Serpent  Mound.  This  is 
situated  on  the  bank  of  Brush  Creek,  in  Adams  County,  Ohio,  and  the 
nearest  railway -station  is  Peebles,  71  M.  to  the  E.  of  Cincinnati  hy  the 
Norfolk  Western  Railway  (station  at  cor.  of  Court  St.  and  Broadway). 
The  mound,  which  is  7 M.  from  Peebles  (omn.  or  carr.),  is  in  the  form  of 
a serpent, ^ 1000  ft.  long^  and  5 ft.  high,  and  is  30  ft.  wide  at  the  base.  The 
tail  ends  in  a triple  coil,  and  the  mouth  is  open,  as  if  to  swallow  an  oval 
mound  which  rests  partly  between  the  distended  jaws.  This  oval  is  4 ft 
high,  with  diameters  of  109  and  39  ft.  The  combined  figure  has  been 
supposed  to  represent  the  Oriental  cosmological  idea  of  the  serpent  and 
the  egg. 

From  Cincinnati  to  Chicago,  see  R.  56  ^ to  St.  Louis,  see  R.  59  d;  to 
.Louisville,  Chattanooga,  and  New  Orleans,  see  R.  62. 


59.  From  New  York  to  St.  Louis, 

a.  Vi5.  Cleveland  and  Indianapolis. 

1171  M.  Railway  in  28V2-32  hrs.  (fare  $24.25;  through -sleeper  $ 6)* 
N.  y.  C.  R.  R.  from  New  York  to  (440  M.)  Buffalo,  Lake  Shore  Railway 
thence  to  (623  M.)  Cleveland,  and  C.  C.  C.  & St.  L.  R.  R.  thence  to  (1171  M.) 
St.  Louis. 

From  New  York  to  (440  M.)  Buffalo,  see  R.  28a ; thence  to  (623  M.) 
Cleveland,  see  R.  46  a;  thence  to  (703  M.)  Gallon,  see  R.  57c. 

At  Gallon  our  line  diverges  to  the  right  from  that  to  Cincinnati 
(see  p.  383).  724  M.  Marion;  764  M.  Bellefontaine  (1215  ft.); 
804y2M.  Versailles;  8211/2 M.  TJnionCity  (1110ft.),  partly  in  Ohio 
and  partly  in  Indiana;  870  M.  Anderson. 

906  m.  Indianapolis  (Rail.  Restaurant),  see  p.  378. 

Beyond  Indianapolis  the  train  crosses  the  White  River  and  runs 
to  the  S.W.  through  Indiana.  945  M.  Greencastle  (7 SO  U.) , with 
3661  inhab.  and  the  Depauw  University  (Methodist;  600  students). 
— 978  M.  Terre  Haute  (490  ft;  Terre  Haute  Ho.,  $21/2-4;  Fil- 
leck,  $ 3),  a busy  commercial  and  industrial  city  of  36,673  inhab., 
on  the  Wabash  River,  with  some  fine  buildings  and  several  educa- 
tional institutions.  It  is  an  important  railway- centre,  and  steamers 

25* 


388  Route  59, 


TERRE  HAUTE. 


descend  the  Wahash  hence  to  Vincennes  (p.  389).  — The  train 
now  crosses  the  Wabash  and  enters  Illinois.  997  M.  Paris  (Paris 
Hotel,  $2-3;  Central,  at  the  station,  $2),  with  6105  inhah.  ; 
1035  M.  Mattoon  (p.  402).  At  (1058  M.)  Shelbyville  we  cross  the 
Kaskaskia  and  see  a lofty  trestle  to  the  right  (N.).  1074  M.  Pana; 
1113  M.  Litchfield  (685  ft.).  From  (1148  M.)  East  Alton  (470  ft.) 
the  line  runs  S.  along  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  At  (1168  M.) 
East  St,  Louis  we  cross  the  Eads  Bridge  (p.  393). 

1171  M.  St.  Louis,  see  p.  389. 

b.  Via.  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburg. 

1065  M.  Railway  ( Pennsylvania  Lines)  in  2772-33  hrs.  ($  24.25  ; sleeper  $ 6). 

From  New  York  to  (90  M.)  Philadelphia^  see  R.  31a ; thence  to 
(444  M.)  Pittsburg,  see  R.  37;  thence  to  (720  M.)  Bradford  Junction, 
see  R.  44h.  From  Bradford  Junction  the  line  runs  to  the  S.W.  to 
(758  M.)  Richmond  (p.  379).  825  M.  Indianapolis  (p.  378).  The 
‘Vaiidalia  Line’,  which  we  now  follow,  takes  nearly  the  same  course 
as  the  line  above  described.  861 M.  Greencastle;  897  M.  Terre  Haute 
(p.  387);  965  M.  Effingham;  977  M.  Altamont;  997  M.  Vandalia; 
1014  M.  Greenville;  1062  M.  East  St.  Louis, 

1065  M.  St.  Louis,  see  p.  389. 

c.  Via.  Buffalo  and  Toledo. 

1172  M.  Railway  in  2872-34  brs,  (fare  $ 24.25  ; sleeper  $ 6).  iV.  Y.  G.  R.  R, 
to  (440  M.)  Buffalo;  Michigan  Central  R.  R.  thence  to  (736  M.)  Toledo;  Wahash 
R,  R.  thence  to  (1172  M.)  St.  Louis, 

From  New  York  to  (440  M.)  Buffalo,  see  R.  28  a ; thence  to  (736  M.) 
Toledo,  see  R.  46a.  — From  Toledo  the  train  runs  towards  the  S.W., 
touching  the  Maumee  River  at  (772  Napoleon  (680  ft.)  and  cross- 
ing it  at  (786  M.)  Defiance  (700  ft.).  Beyond  (807  M.)  Antwerp 
we  enter  Indiana.  At  (830  M.)  Fort  Wayne  (p.  334)  we  intersect 
the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  and  ‘Nickel  Plate’  routes  from  New  York  to 
Chicago.  873  M.  Wabash  (740ft.) ; 887  M.  Peru  (685  ft.) ; 903  M. 
Logansport  (p.  327);  940  M.  Lafayette  (p.  378).  At  (961  M.)  Attica 
we  cross  the  Wabash  and  at  (978  M.)  State  Line  we  enter  Illinois. 
1060  M.  Decatur  (p.  377);  1120  M.  Litchfield  (see  above);  1169  M. 
East  St.  Louis. 

1172  M.  St.  Louis,  see  p.  389. 

d.  Via.  Washington  and  Cincinnati. 

1120  M.  Baltimore  & Ohio  R.  R.  in  32-38  hrs.  (fare  $ 21.25;  sleeper  $ 6). 

From  New  York  to  (780  M.)  Cincinnati,  see  R.  57d.  Beyond 
Cincinnati  the  train  (Baltimore  ^ Ohio  ^ South-Western  Railway) 
follows  the  N.  (right)  bank  of  the  Ohio  for  some  distance,  crossing 
the  Great  Miami  and  entering  Indiana  beyond  (795  M.)  North  Bend. 


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ST.  LOUIS. 


60.  Route.  389 


At  (806  M.)  Aurora  (490  ft.)  it  leaves  the  river.  — 853  M.  North 
Vernon  (725  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (58  M.)  Louis- 
ville (p.  395),  At  (931  M.)  Shoals  we  cross  the  S.  fork  of  the  White 
Biver^  and  beyond  (953  M.)  Washington  the  N.  fork  of  the  same 
river.  972  M.  Vincennes.,  a city  with  10,249  inhab.,  on  the  E.  bank 
of  the  Wabash  (steamers  to  Terre  Haute,  see  p.  388).  We  here 
cross  the  Wabash  and  enter  Illinois.  1056  M.  Odin;  1118  M.  East 
St.  Louis. 

1120  M.  St.  Louis,  see  below. 


60.  St.  Louis. 

Arrival.  The  Union  Station  (PI.  F,  2-,  Restaurant),  a magnificent  struc- 
ture erected  in  1895  at  a cost  of  $ 5,000,000,  is  in  Market  St.,  between  18th 
and  20th  Sts.  The  train-shed  is  700  ft.  long  and  600  ft.  wide,  containing 
32  tracks.  The  main  waiting-hall,  with  its  fine  waggon-vault,  is  very 
elaborately  decorated  (best  viewed  from  the  galleries).  Hacks  (p.  390) 
and  hotel-omnibuses  (50  c.)  are  in  waiting.  — There  are  also  smaller 
stations  for  suburban  traffic  at  the  foot  of  Washington  Ave.,  at  the  end 
of  the  St.  Louis  or  Eads  Bridge  (PI.  H,  2),  and  at  the  cor.  of  4th  St.  and 
Chouteau  Ave.  (PI.  H,  3).  — The  Steamhoat  Landings  (PI.  H,  2)  are  near 
the  Eads  Bridge. 

Hotels.  .Jefferson  (PI.  kj  G,  2),  with  1500  beds,  cor.  of  12th  & Locust 
Sts.,  R.  from  $21/2;  St.  Nicholas  (PL  i;  G,  2),  cor.  of  8th  and  Locust  Sts., 
R.  from  $2,  well  spoken  of;  Southern  (PI.  a;H,  2),  a huge  caravanserai 
bounded  by  Walnut,  Elm,  4th  Sts.,  and  Broadway,  $3-41/2,  R.  from  $ I1/2  : 
Planters  (PI.  b;  H,  2),  4th.  St.,  between  Chestnut  & Pine' Sts.,  R.  from 
$ 2;  Washington  (PI.  m-  C,  1),  King’s  Highway,  cor.  of  Washington  BouL, 
R.  from  $2;  Hamilton,  cor.  of  Hamilton  <fe  Maple  Aves.  (beyond  PI.  A,  1), 
R.  from  $2;  Monticello  (PI.  n;  C,  1,  2),  King’s  Highway,  cor.  of  W.  Pine 
BouL,  R.  from  $2;  Usona  (PL  o;  C,  1),  King’s  Highway,  cor.  of  McPherson 
Ave.,  .from  $3;  Berlin  (PL  q;  C,  i),  Taylor  <fe  Berlin  Aves.,  R.  from  $ 2: 
Franklin  (PL  r;  D,  1),  4101  Westminster  PL,  R.  from  $ I1/2,  these  six  all 
near  Forest  Park  and  some  way  from  the  centre  of  the  city;  Terminal 
(PL  s;  F,  2)  at  the  Union  Station,  R.  from  $ I1/2;  Lindell  (PL  c;  H,  2),  cor. 
Washington  Ave.  & 6th  St.,  R.  from  $ 11/2;  Laclede  (PL  e;  H,  2),  Chestnut  & 
6th  Sts.,  R.  from  $ 1;  Moser  (PL  t;  G,  2),  815  Pine  St.,  R.  from  $ 1;  Hotel 
Beers  (PL  d;  E,  1,  2),  pleasantly  situated  in  Olive  St.,  cor.  of  Grand  Ave., 
from  $3,  R.  from  $ 1;  Grand  Avenue  (PL  1 ; E,  1,  2),  nearly  opposite  the 
last,  a family  hotel,  from  $3;  Benton  (PL  u;  G,  2),  819  Pine  St.,  R. 
$ 11/2-21/2  (men  only) ; New  St.  James  (PL  v ; H,  2),  Broadway,  cor.  of  Walnut 
St..  $ 2-31/2,  R.  from  $ 1 ; Pontiac  (PI.  p;  F,  2),  Market  & 19th  Sts.,  R.  from 
.$  1;  Merchants  (PL  w;  G,  2),  12th  & Olive  Sts.,  R.  from  $ 1;  Hotel  Garni, 
Olive  St.,  cor.  of  Jefferson  Ave.  (PL  F,  2),  R.  from  75  c. ; West  End  (PL  h; 
D,  1),  Vandeventer  Ave.,  from  $ 3,  R.  from  $ I1/2;  Normandie  (Pi.  x;  E,  1), 
Franklin  Ave.,  cor.  Theresa  Ave.,  $21/2-4;  Hotel  Rosier  (PL  y;  G,  2), 
cor.  of  13th  and  Olive  Sts.,  R.  from  $ 1. 

Restaurants.  Faust.,  cor.  Elm  St.  and  Broadway;  restaurants  at  the 
“^'Southern  and  most  of  the  other  hotels;  Lippe.,  Chemical  Building,  Olive  & 
8th  Sts.;  McTague,  Century  Building,  Olive  & 9th  Sts.;  Caesar^  210  N. 
6th  St. ; American  Cafi.,  Olive  & 6th  Sts.;  San  Antonio.,  Market  <fe  7th  Sts  ; 
Speers  Vienna  Oafi,  414  Market  St.;  White.,  313  Pine  St.  and  918  Olive  St.; 
Luncheon  Rooms  of  the  Delicatessen  Go..,  124  & 718  Olive  St.,  116  N.  4th  St., 
^ Locust  St.,  and  of  the  Stilwell  Catering  Co.,  921, 
1013,  1214,  & 2621  Olive  St.,  219  Locust  St.,  & 517  Chestnut  St. ; Broadway 
Cafi,  203  N.  Broadway^  restaurants  at  the  large  Dry  Goods  Stores. 

Tramways  (electric)  traverse  the  city  in  all  directions  and  extend  to 
many  suburban  points  (fare  within  the  city-limits  5e.,  beyond,  6 c.  more). 


390  Route  60. 


ST.  LOUIS. 


Theatres. 


In  running  E.  and  W.  it  is  easy  for  the  passenger  to  recognize  his  where- 
abouts by  the  numbers  on  the  houses*,  thus,  916  Olive  St.  must  be  between 
9th  and  10th  Sts.  The  St.  Louis  tram-cars  are  excellent,  and  some  of 
them  can  be  used  either  closed  or  open.  — Carriages.  With  one  horse,  for 
1 M.  25  c.  for  each  pers.,  each  addit.  mile  25  c.  for  1-2  pers. ; per  hr. 
(1-2  pers.)  75  c.,  outside  the  3 M.  radius  $1.  With  two  horses,  50  c.  each 
for  1st  mile,  25  c.  each  for  each  addit.  mile,  per  hr.  $ I72,  each  addit.  hr. 
$1.  Each  package  carried  outside  10  c.  Waiting  (one  stop  of  5 min.,  free) 
10  c.  per  10  min.,  75  c.  per  hour.  — Ferries  to  East  St.  Louis  from  foot  of 
Market  St.,  Carr  St.,  and  Spruce  St.  — Steamers  ply  to  points  on  the 
Mississippi,  Missouri,  Ohio,  Illinois,  Tennessee,  etc. 

Theatres.  Olympic  (PI.  H,  2),  Broadway;  Century  (PI.  G,  2),  Olive  St.; 
Crawford  (PI.  G,  2),  Locust  St.,  cor.  of  l4th  St.;  Havlin's  (PI.  G,  2), 
Standard  (PI.  G,  2);  Walnut  St.;  Imperial  (PI.  G,  2),  cor.  of  Pine  and  10th 
Sts.;  Columbia  (PI.  H,  2),  cor.  of  St.  Chsrles  and  6th  Sts.;  Grand  Opera 
(PI.  H,  2),  Market  St.  (continuous  vaudeville  performances).  — The  Odeon 
(PI.  E,  1),  Grand  Ave.,  is  a large  and  fine  hall  used  for  concerts,  dramatic 
performances,  etc.  (German  performances  twice  weekly).  — The  following 
are  Summer  Theatres:  Uhrig's  Cave  (PI.  F,  2),  Washington  Ave.,  cor.  of 
Jefferson  Ave.;  The  Suburban.,  at  the  terminus  of  the  St.  Louis  & Suburban 
Railway,  Forest  Park  Highlands  (PI.  B,  2,  3);  Koerner'^s  Gardens.,  4900  Ar- 
senal St. ; Delmar  Garden.,  Delmar  Boul.  (beyond  PI.  B,  1);  West  End  Heights., 
near  the  S.W.  corner  of  Forest  Park.  — Theatre- tickets  may  be  bought  in 
advance  at  Bellman's.,  1120  Olive  St. 

Clubs.  St.  Louis,  3633  Lindell  Boul.;  University,  607  N.  Grand  Ave.; 
Union,  cor.  of  Jefferson  & Lafayette  Aves.;  Columbian,  3919  Lindell  Ave., 
Hebrew;  Noonday,  319  N.  4th  St. ; Mercantile,  Locust  & 7th  Sts.,  these  two 
‘down  town’  lunching  clubs;  LiederTcranz,  Chouteau  Ave.  & 13th  St.,  Ger- 
man; Women's  Club,  next  door  to  the  University  Club;  Missouri  Athletic 
Club,  cor.  of  4th  Sh  & Washington  Ave.,  with  fine  baths  and  gj'mnasium; 
Country  Club,  to  the  W.  of  the  city. 

Newspapers.  Globe-Democrat  a widely  known  sheet;  Republic 

(Dem.);  Post-Despatch  ('Independent  Dem.;  evening);  Star  (Repub.;  ev’g.) 
Chronicle  (Dem.;  ev’g.) ; Wesiliche  Post  (Indep.;  Ger. ; m’g.). 

Post  Office  (PI.  G,  2),  Olive  St.,  open  7-11  (Sun.  9-12). 

British  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  Western  Bascome,  725  Century  Building, 

St.  Louis  (4-500  ft.  above  the  sea),  the  largest  city  of  Missouri 
and  the  fourth  of  the  United  States,  lies  on  the  TV.  hank  of  the 
Mississippi,  about  20  M.  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  It  has  a 
frontage  of  nearly  20  M.  on  the  river  and  rises  from  it  in  three  ter- 
races, the  third  of  which  is  about  200  ft.  above  the  river-level.  The 
city  is  regularly  laid  out,  on  the  Philadelphia  plan.  Market  St., 
running  E.  and  TV.,  being  the  dividing  line  between  N.  andS.  The 
streets  running  N.  and  S.  are  numbered,  though  many  of  them  are 
also  known  by  names.  Broadway  or  Fifth  Street  is  the  chief  shop- 
ping thoroughfare,  while  other  important  business  streets  are  Fourth 
St.  (banks),  Olive  St.  (retail  trade),  Washington,  Ave.  (wholesale 
trade).  Third  St.  (printing-offices),  and  1st  (or  Main)  and  2nd  Streets 
(along  the  river;  commission  houses).  The  city  is  also  divided  into 
a N.  and  a S.  section  by  the  valley  of  Mill  Creek  (now  filled  in),  which 
is  spanned  by  seven  bridges.  The  city  has  recently  extended  greatly 
to  the  TV.,  and  commerce  is  steadily  encroaching  on  the  residential 
quarters.  The  population  of  St.  Louis  in  1900  was  575,238,  includ- 
ing about  100,000  Germans  and  35,000  negroes. 

History.  The  fur-trading  station  of  St.  Louis  or  Pain  Court  was  estab- 
lished by  the  French  in  1764,  and  it  still  bears  traces  of  its  French  origin 


Court  House. 


ST.  LOUIS. 


60.  Route.  391 


in  the  names  of  some  of  its  streets  and  leading  fa.milies.  Louis  XV.  had 
just  ceded  the  territory  to  the  E.  of  the  Mississippi  to  England,  while  at 
the  same  time  he  had  made  a secret  treaty,  transferring  the  W.  hank  to 
Spain.  It  was  not  till  1770,  however,  that  Spanish  authority  was  estab- 
lished at  St.  Louis.  In  1804  St.  Louis,  the  population  of  which  was  still 
below  1000,  passed  to  the  United  States,  with  the  rest  of  the  territory  then 
known  as  Louisiana.  This  was  the  signal  for  immigration  from  the  States, 
and  the  English-speaking  inhabitants  soon  outnumbered  the  French. 
St.  Louis  was  incorporated  in  1809  and  by  1831  had  6000  inhabitants.  In 
1840  the  population  had  swollen  to  16,469,  in  1859  to  185,000,  in  1880  to 
350,522,  and  in  1890  to  451,770.  On  May  27th,  1896,  St.  Louis  was  visited 
by  a terrific  tornado,  which  destroyed  300  lives  and  property  to  the  value 
of  $ 10,000,000.  The  floods  of  1903  raised  the  river  38  ft.,  broke  the  levee, 
and  did  great  damage  in  E.  St.  Louis  (p.  377).  In  1904  St.  Louis  was  the 
scene  of  the  Louisiana  Exposition.,  held  to  commemorate  the  centenary  of 
the  purchase  of  Louisiana  from  France  (see  above).  — In  the  first  week 
of  October  St.  Louis  is  the  scene  of  a pop-ular  Fair^  which  attracts  many 
visitors.  During  the  so-called  Fall  Festivities  one  night  is  devoted  to  the 
Procession  of  the  Veiled  Prophet.,  in  the  style  of  the  Mardi  Gras  at  New 
Orleans  (p.  461).  The  ball  in  honour  of  the  Veiled  Prophet,  held  in  the 
Merchants’  Exchange  (p.  392),  is  the  society  event  of  the  year. 

Trade  and  Industry.  St.  Louis’  position  in  the  centre  of  the  great 
Mississippi  Valley  gives  it  an  immense  trade,  among  the  staples  of  which 
are  bread-stuffs,  packed  meats,  tobacco,  livestock,  timber,  grain,  wool,  furs, 
etc.  In  manufactures  St.  Louis  ranks  fourth  among  American  cities,  pro- 
ducing goods  in  1900  valued  at  $233,630,000  (46,726,000?.)  and  employing 
82,700  hands.  It  is  the  chief  tobacco-making  city  in  the  world  (90  million 
pounds  annually),  and  also  produces  immense  quantities  of  beer,  flour, 
boots  and  shoes,  hardware,  stoves,  railway  and  tramway  cars,  wooden 
wares,  bricks,  drugs,  biscuits  (‘crackers’),  etc.  The  Anheuser-Busch  Brewery 
(PI.  G,  4\  cor.  of  9th  and  Pestalozzi  Sts.,  employs  5000  men  and  produces 
1,200, ()00  barrels  of  beer  annually.  Strangers  may  also  be  interested  by 
visits  to  the  Horse  db  Mule  Market  (E.  St.  Louis*,  one  of  the  greatest  mule 
markets  in  the  worlds  comp.  p.  396)*,  to  the  Simmons  Hardware  Store 
(Broadway  and  Charles  St.;  warehouse  at  Cupples  Station);  and  to  the 
Cupples  Wooden  Ware  Co.  The  last-named  is  also  at  Guppies  Station  (PI.  G,  2), 
a large  goods-station  at  the  corner  of  Spruce  <fe  7th  Sts.,  surrounded  by  a 
group  of  huge  buildings  constructed  to  facilitate  direct  shipment  from  the 
warehouses  to  the  trains.  Cupples  Station  now  belongs  to  the  University. 
The  Meyer  Brothers  Drug  Go.  (4th  St.  & Clark  Ave. ; drugs  and  perfumes) 
is  also  interesting. 

Eugene  Field  (1850-95),  the  poet  and  journalist,  was  born  in  St.  Louis, 
probably  in  a house  at  the  corner  of  4th  & Cerre  St.  (PI.  H,  3). 

The  Court  House  (PI.  H,  2),  in  Broadway,  between  Market  and 
Chestnut  Sts.,  is  a large  and  substantial  building  in  the  form  of  a 
Greek  cross.  It  is  surmounted  by  a dome  (175  ft.  high),  the  gallery 
of  which  commands  an  excellent  view  of  the  city  and  river  (open  till 
4 p.m.).  The  building  contains  some  frescoes  by  Wimar  (see  p.  393). 
A little  to  the  E.,  in  3rd  St.,  cor.  of  Chestnut  St.,  is  the  Merchants* 
Exchange  (PI.  H,  2),  the  main  hall  of  which,  with  a painted  ceiling, 
is  220  ft.  long  (business-hours  10-1.15  p.m.;  gallery  open  to  visi- 
tors). The  grand  ball  of  the  Yeiled  Prophet  (see  above)  is  held  here. 
— The  Cotton  Exchange  (PI.  H,  2)  is  at  the  corner  of  Main  and 
Walnut  Sts. 

By  following  Market  St.  to  the  W.  from  the  Court  House  we 
soon  reach  the  square  named  Washington  Park,  with  the  City  Hall 
(PI.  G,  2).  A little  to  the  S.,  in  the  square  enclosed  by  Clark  Ave. 


392  Route  60. 


ST.  T.OUIS. 


University. 


and  Spruce,  llth,  and  12tli  Sts.,  are  tlie  so-called  Four  Courts 
(PI.  H,  2),  built  on  the  model  of  the  Louvre,  with  a large  semi- 
circular gaol  at  the  back.  — A little  to  the  N.  of  the  City  Hall  runs 
the  busy  Olive  Street  (PI.  E-H,  2),  which  we  may  follow  to  the 
left  to  the  Coliseum  (PI.  G,  2),  a building  with  15,000  seats,  used 
for  exhibitions,  concerts,  and  conventions;  or  to  the  right  (E.)  to 
Broadway,  passing  the  Post  Office  (PI.  G,  2)  on  the  left.  Among  the 
numerous  substantial  business-buildings  in  this  part  of  Olive  St. 
are  the  Star  (N.AV.  cor.  of  12th  St.),  Century  (9th  St. ; N.W.  cor.), 
Frisco  (9th  St.  ; S.W.),  Chemical  (8th  St.  ; N.E.),  Missouri  Trust 
(7th  St. ; N.W. ; view  from  the  roof,  adm.  25  c.).  Commercial  (6th  St. ; 
S.E.),  Lacicde  (4th  St. ; S.W.),  Commonwealth  Trust  (Broadway; 
N.E.),  and  National  Bank  of  Commerce  (Broadway;  S.E.).  In 
Broadway  (PI.  G,  H,  2-4),  at  the  corner  of  Locust  St.,  is  the  Mer- 
cantile Library  (PI.  H,  2),  which  contains  130,000  vols.,  statues  by 
Miss  Hosmer,  etc. 

Other  important  buildings  in  this  business-section  of  the  city  are  the 
Security  Building  (at  the  S.W.  cor.  of  4th  & Locust  Sts.) ; the  Mercantile  Trust 
Go.,  by  Isaac  Taylor,  at  the  ^I.E.  cor.  of  8th  & Locust  Sts.  (with  vaults 
closed  by  a circular  steel  door  of  marvellous  mechanism  weighing  41/2  tons)  ^ 
the  '-  St.  Louis  Union  Trust  Co.,  by  J.  L.  Mauran,  at  the  IST.W.  corner  of  4th  & 
Locust  Sts.  ^ the  Mercantile  Club  (PI.  H,  2),  S.E.  cor.  of  Tth  & Locust  Sts.; 
the  Public  Library  (PI.  G-,  2;  175,000  vols.),  Locust  St.,  cor.  of  9th  St.;  the 
Lincoln  Trust  and  Wainwright  Buildings , cor.  of  Tth  & Chestnut  Sts. ; and 
the  Missouri  Pacific  Building,  N.W.  cor.  of  Market  & Tth  Sts. 

A street -car  on  Washington  Ave.  or  Olive  St.  will  bring  us 
near  the  present  temporary  buildings  of  ^Washington  University 
(PI.  E,2),  situated  at  the  corner  of  Beaumont  (27th)  and  Locust  Sts. 

This  university  is  notable  for  the  width  of  its  charter,  which  includes 
an  ordinary  undergraduate  department,  schools  of  engineering,  fine  arts, 
law,  medicine,  dentistry,  and  botany,  a manual  training  school,  and  schools 
for  boys  and  girls.  It  is  attended  by  about  1200  University  students  and 
1000  others. 

The  new  buildings  of  Washington  University,  to  the  W.  of  Forest 
Park  (beyond  PI.  A,  1),  which  will  be  used  for  academic  purposes  on  the 
expiration  of  their  temporary  occupation  by  the  officials  of  the  Louisiana 
Exposition,  are  certainly  among  the  most  successful  and  appropriate  groups 
of  collegiate  buildings  in  the  New  World.  They  were  designed  by  .Messrs, 
Cope  & Stewardson  in  a Tudor-Gothic  style  and  enclose  several  quadrangles. 
The  material  is  red  Missouri  granite.  Among  the  buildings  already  com- 
pleted are  University  Hall,  the  Chemical  & Physical  Laboratories,  the  Architec- 
tural and  Engineering  Buildings,  the  Library  (with  a fine  reading-room), 
various  Dormitories,  and  the  Gymnasium  (at  the  extreme  W.  end  of  the  uni- 
versity grounds,  110  acres  in  extent).  Among  the  chief  donors,  whose 
generosity  made  possible  this  expansion  of  the  university,  are  Mr.  Samuel 
Guppies,  Mr.  Robt.  S.  Brookings,  Mr.  Adolphus  Busch,  and  Mrs.  J.  E.  Liggett. 

At  the  corner  of  Locust  and  19th  Sts,  is  the  handsome  Museum 
of  Fine  Arts  (PI.  E,  2 ; open  9.30-6 ; adm.  25  c. ; free  on  Erid.  & Sat. 
and  on  Sun.  afternoon ; closed  on  Mon.  & Sun.  forenoons). 

The  contents  include  large  collections  of  (7as^5(incl.  the  iEgina  Marbles) 
and  Electrotype  Beproductions  and  well-chosen  selections  of  Pottery,  Glass, 
Ivory  Carvings,  Lace,  Wood  and  Metal  Work,  etc.  Among  the  pictures  are 
several  by  Carl  Wimar  (1829-63),  a St.  Louis  artist  who  painted  character- 
istic Western  scenes  from  nature.  — The  building  is  also  the  seat  of  the 
Art  School  of  the  university  (see  above). 


P^irJcs,  ST.  LOUIS.  60.  Route.  393 


Opposite  tlie  Museum  stands  the  Medical  Department  of  Wash^ 
ington  University  (PI.  F,  Gr,  2). 

The  Parks  of  St.  Louis  are  among  the  finest  in  the  United  States, 
and  their  area  (2300  acres)  is  exceeded  by  those  of  Philadelphia 
alone.  All  those  named  below  are  easily  reached  by  tramway. 

Forest  Park  (PI.  A,  B,  2),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  city,  41/2  M.  from  the 
Court  House,  is  the  largest  park  in  St.  Louis  (1370  acres).  It  has  fine 
trees  and  drives,  but  a great  many  of  the  former  were  cut  down  for  the 
Louisiana  Exposition  (1904),  which  occupied  half  the  area  of  the  park. 
The  muddy  Bes  P^res  River  meanders  through  Forest  Park,  and  it  also 
contains  several  lakes.  — Among  the  streets  leading  to,  and  adjoining 
Forest  Park  are  several  of  the  so-called  ^Places’’,  which  rank  among  the 
finest  residential  streets  in  the  world.  Theso  consist  of  wide  avenues, 
generally  enclosed  by  ornamental  gateways  at  each  end,  and  containing 
tasteful  and  well-to-do-looking  houses  (often  in  an  Italian  style),  each 
standing  in  its  own  grounds.  Westmoi^eland  Place,  Portland  Place  (PI.  B 1) 
and  Vandeventer  Place  (PI.  D,  E,  1)  are  characteristic  specimens.  — ’^Tower 
Grove  Park  (PI.  C,  D,  4),  a long  narrow  oblong  (263  acres)  in  the  S.W. 
part  of  the  city , is  beautifully  laid  out  and  contains  three  fine  bronze 
statues  (Columbus,  *Humboldt,  and  Shakspeare),  by  Ferd.  von  Miller  of 
Munich.  Tower  Grove  Park  is  adjoined  by  Shaw’s  or  the  Missouri  Botanical 
Garden  (PI.  C,  3,  4),  the  finest  garden  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States 
which  was  bequeathed  to  the  city  by  Mr.  Henry  Bhaw  (b.  at  Sheffield,  Eng  ’ 
in  1800;  d.  1889),  the  founder  of  the  botanical  school  in  Washington  Uni- 
versity and  also  the  donor  of  Tower  Grove  Park  (see  above).  The  garden 
(75  acres  in  extent),  which  is  open  to  the  public  on  week-days,  is  excel- 
lently equipped  for  the  purposes  of  the  student  and  is  also  a delightful 
resort  for  the  layman.  At  one  end  of  the  garden  is  Mr.  Bhaw'‘s  House, 
near  which  is  a mausoleum  containing  his  remains.  — A little  to  the  E 
is  Reservoir  Park  (PI.  E,  3),  Compton  Heights.  — The  small  Lafayette 
Park  (PI.  F,  3)  suffered  greatly  from  the  tornado  (p.  391).  It  contains  a 
bronze  replica  of  Houdon’s  Washington  (p.  409)  and  a statue  of  Senator 
Benton.  — Other  parks  are  Carondelet  Park  (183  acres),  in  the  S.  and 
0 Fallon  Patk  (158  acres)  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city.  Adjoining  the  latter 
are  the  extensive  Bellefontaine  Cemetery  (350  acres)  and  Calvary  Cemetery 
(415  acres).  — The  Fair  Grounds,  140  acres  in  extent,  contain  an  amphi- 
theatre, a racecourse,  etc.  On  the  ‘Big  Thursday’  of  Fair  Week  (n  391) 
they  are  visited  by  large  crowds. 


The  great  *St.  Louis  or  Eads  Bridge  (PI.  H,  2),  across  the  Mis- 
sissippi, is  deservedly  one  of  the  lions  of  the  city.  The  visitor  may 
cross  it  on  foot  (toll  5 c.)  for  the  sake  of  the  views  up  and  down 
stream,  and  return  by  ferry  (5  c.)  for  the  view  of  the  majestic  arches 
of  the  bridge  itself;  but  part  of  this  walk  is  not  very  pleasant. 

The  bridge,  which  was  designed  by  Capt  James  B.  Eads  (p.  407),  was 
constructed  in  1869-74  at  a cost  of  $10,000,000  (2,000,000?.).  It  consists 
of  three  steel  spans  (centre  520ft.,  others  502ft.  each)  resting  on  massive 
limestone  piers.  The  total  length  is  2070  yds.  The  bridge  is  built  in 
two  stones,  the  lower  for  the  railway,  the  upper  for  the  roadway  and 
toot-passengers.  Trains  enter  the  lower  track  by  a Tunnel,  1630  yds 
long,  beginning  near  the  corner  of  12th  and  Cerre  Sts.  The  highest  part 
of  the  arches  is  55  ft.  above  the  water. 

The  Merchants’  Bridge,  3 M.  farther  up  the  river,  is  a steel  truss 
bridge,  and  was  built  in  1889-90,  at  a cost  of  $ 3,000,000.  It  is  used  bv 
railways  only.  It  has  three  spans,  each  500  ft.  long  and  70  ft.  high. 

The  St.  Louis  Water  Works  are  at  Chain  of  Rocks,  to  the  N.  of  the 
Merchants  Bridge,  and  there  are  water-towers  (fine  views)  in  Grand  Ave 
and  Reservoir  Park  (see  above). 

Among  other  buildings  of  importance  in  St.  Louis  are  the 


394  Route  60, 


ST.  LOUIS. 


St.  Louis  University  (Pl.E,  2),  a Roman  Catholic  institution  in  Grand 
Ave.,  with  200-300  students;  the  college  - church  of  St.  Xaviers 
(PI.  E,  2),  with  a fine  interior;  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  (PI. 
H,  2),  in  Walnut  St.;  Christ  Church  Cathedral  (Epis. ; PI.  G,  2), 
Locust  St.,  cor.  of  ISthSt. ; the  Church  of  the  Redemptorists  (Pl.E,  1), 
Grand  Ave. ; the  Holy  Trinity  Catholic  Church  (German),  cor.  of 
Mallinckrodt  & 14th  Sts.  (beyond  PI.  G,  1),  a large  and  prominent 
building  with  two  spires;  the  Grand  Avenue  Presbyterian  Church 
(PL  E,  1);  the  First  Presbyterian  Church  (PI.  D,  1),  Washington 
BouL,  cor.  of  Sarah  St. ; the  Second  Presbyterian  Churchy  cor.  of  Taylor 
Ave.  & Westminster  Place  (PI.  C,  1),  with  fine  stained-glass  wind- 
ows; the  Pilgrim  Congregational  Church  (PL  F,  2),  Washington 
Ave.,  cor.  Ewing  Ave. ; the  Church  of  the  Messiah  (PJ.  E,  2),  at  the 
corner  of  Locust  St.  and  Garrison  Ave.,  by  Peabody  and  Stearns; 
the  Jewish  Temple  (PI.  D,  2),  Lindell  Boulevard,  cor.  ofVande- 
venter  Ave.;  the  Temple  Israel  (PI.  F,  2),  Pine  St.,  cor.  Ewing  Ave. ; 
the  University  Club^  a fine  building  at  the  N.W.  corner  of  Grand 
and  Washington  Avenues  (PL  E,  1);  the  handsome  St.  Louis  Club^ 
Lindell  Boulevard,  just  to  the  W.  of  Grand  Ave.  (PL  D,  2);  the 
City  Insane  Asylum;  and  the  U.  S.  Arsenal. 

Among  tlie  favourite  pleasure-resorts  near  St.  Louis  are  Montesano 
(reached  by  boat  and  railway);  Jefferson  Barracks^  12  M.  to  the  S.,  a mil- 
itary post  of  the  first  class,  reached  by  boat,  railway,  and  tramway  (grand 
parade  on  Sun.,  at  noon);  Crystal  City  (see  p.  406);  Creve  Coeur  Lake^  20  M. 
to  the  N.W.  (railway);  Piasa  Bluffs  (boat  and  rail);  and  Meramec  Highlands 
(Highlands  Inn),  reached  hy  rail  and  tramway.  Near  the  last  is  Brown- 
hurst^  the  estate  of  Mr.  D.  S.  Brown,  containing  a splendid  collection  of 
orchids  (shown  to  visitors). 

From  St.  Louis  to  Cairo,  150  M.,  Illinois  Central  Railway  in  5-6  hrs.  — 
Cairo  ^ see  p.  402. 

From  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans  by  railway,  see  R.  63;  to  St.  Paul., 
see  R.  65;  to  Chicago,  see  R.  55;  to  New  York,  see  R.  59;  to  Louisville, 
see  R.  61;  to  Denver,  see  R.  90;  to  Texarkana,  see  R.  91. 


61.  From  St.  Louis  to  Louisville. 

274  M.  Southern  Railway  in  9V4*10  hrs.  (fare  38,  sleeper  $2V2). 

St.  Louis,  see  p.  389.  The  train  crosses  the  Eads  Bridge 
(p.  393)  and  runs  nearly  due  E.  through  Illinois.  15  M.  Belleville; 
64  M.  Centralia  (500  ft. ; 6721  inhab.) , the  junction  of  several 
railways;  86  M.  Mt.  Vernon  (405  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant);  150  M. 
Mt.  Carmel.  We  now  enter  Indiana.  From  (161  M.)  Princeton  and 
(175  M.)  Oakland  railways  run  to  Evansville  (see  below).  — 199  M. 
Huntingburg  (495  ft. ; , Rail.  Restaurant;  2527  inhab.)  is  the  junc- 
tion of  branch-lines  to  (47  M.)  Evansville,  etc. 

Evansville  (380  ft. ; St.  Oeorge,  from  $ 3;  Acme^,  a busy  city  of  Indiana, 
with  59,000  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Ohio  and  carries  on  an  extensive  trade  in 
coal,  timber,  grain,  pork,  flour,  and  tobacco. 

From  (240  M.)  Milltown  we  may  visit  (8^2  M.)  the  Wyandotte 
Cave  (p.  395). 


LOUISVILLE. 


61.  Route.  395 


The  *Wyandotte  Cave,  second  in  size  to  the  Mammoth  Cave  onlj^,  is 
its  superior  in  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  stalactites  and  stalagmites. 
There  is  a small  Hotel  ($  IV2)  at  the  mouth  of  the  cave,  and  three  regular 
routes  are  laid  out  through  the  latter  (as  at  the  Mammoth  Cave),  one 
10-12  M.  long  (fee  $ 1^  all  three  routes  $2).  The  cave  may  also  be  reached 
from  (11  M.)  Corydon  (see  below)  or  from  (5  M.)  on  the  Ohio. 

From  (250  M.)  Corydon  Junction  a short  line  runs  to  Corydon 
(see  above).  267  M.  New  Albany  (20,628  inhab.). — The  train  now 
threads  a tunnel,  crosses  a long  bridge  over  the  Ohio.,  and  reaches 
(274  M.)  Louisville. 

Louisville.  — Eailway  Stations.  Union  Depot.,  on  the  river,  between 
7th  and  8th  Sts.,  for  the  Baltimore,  Ohio,  & South-Western,  the  Southern, 
the  C.  C.  C.  & St.  L.,  and  other  railways^  Union  Station,  10th  St.,  cor.  Broad- 
way (a  handsome  building),  for  the  Louisville  and  Nashville,  and  other  lines. 

Hotels.  Galt  House,  Main  St.,  cor.  1st  St.,  R.  from  $ IVz^  Louisville 
Hotel,  Main  St.,  between  6th  and  7th  Sts.,  $ 3-5,  R.  from  $ IV2;  Seelbach’s, 
R.  from  $2;  Seelbach  Annex  (for  men),  R.  from  $1;  Willard’s,  Fifth 
Avenue,  from  $ 2.  — * VateVs  Restaurant. 

Electric  Tramways  traverse  all  the  principal  streets  and  run  to  the 
suburbs  (5  c.).  Three  interurban  electric  lines  ply  to  Pawee  Valley,  Jeffer- 
son To^^>n(Ky.),  New  Albany  — Cabs  from  the  stations  or  wharf 

into  the  town  25-50  c.  each  person;  per  hr.  $11/2,  each  addit.  hr.  $ 1.  — 
Ferries  ply  to  Jeffersonville.  — Steamers  run  to  Cincinnati,  Evansville, 
and  other  places  on  the  OMo  and  Mississippi. 

Theatres.  Macauley's,  Walnut  St.;  Masonic,  Chestnut  St.;  Hopkins 
(vaudeville).  Market  St.;  Avenue,  Fourth  Ave. ; Buckingham  (burlesques), 
Jefferson  St.  — Pendennis  Club,  Walnut  St.,  near  4th  Ave.  (introductitn 
necessary). 

Post  Office,  cor.  of  4th  Ave.  and  Chestnut  St.  (7-6;  Sun.  9-10  a.m.). 
Louisville  it. the  ‘Falls  City’),  the  largest  city  of  Ken- 
tucky and  the  entrepot  of  the  lower  Ohio,  which  here  descends  26  ft. 
within2M.,  liesonalevel  plain  and  extends  for  6 M.  along  the  river. 
Pop.  (1900)  204,731. 

Louisville  was  founded  by  Col.  George  Rogers  Clark  in  1778  and 
named  in  honour  of  Louis  XVI.  of  France.  It  received  its  city  charter 
in  1828,  when  its  population  was  about  10,000.  In  1850  it  contained 
43,194  inhab.,  in  1870  it  had  100,753,  and  in  1890  it  had  161,129.  In  March, 
1890,  Louisville  was  visited  by  a terrific  tornado,  which  swept  through  the 
heart  of  the  city  with  a width  of  600-800  ft.,  levelling  almost  everything 
that  stood  in  its  way,  destroying  property  to  the  value  of  $3,000,000,  and 
killing  76  persons.  — Audubon  (1780-1851),  the  naturalist,  was  a resident 
of  Louisville  for  some  years.  — The ‘Kentucky  Derby’  is  held  here  in  May. 

Since  the  Civil  War  Louisville  has  rapidly  grown  in  importance  as 
one  of  the  chief  gateways  to  the  S.W.  Its  trade,  both  by  river  and  rail, 
is  very  large;  and  the  value  of  its  manufactures  in  1900  was  $78,746,390 
(15,749, 278L).  It  is  the  largest  leaf  tobacco  market  in  the  world,  the  saJes 
amounting  annually  to  130,000  hogsheads , valued  at  about  $ 11,000,000, 
and  is  second  in  importance  for  manufactured  tobacco.  Its  sales  of 
Kentucky  whiskey  are  also  very  extensive,  and  the  mule-market  rivals  that 
of  St.  Louis  (p.  391).  Other  important  industries  are  pork  packing,  brew- 
ing, and  the  making  of  iron,  farm  waggons,  ploughs,  cement,  leather, 
flour,  blue  jeans,  and  cast-iron  gas  and  water  pipes.  — Natural  gas  (p.  296) 
is  largely  used  here. 

The  Falls  of  the  Ohio,  adjoining  the  Kentucky  & Indiana  Bridge 
(see  p.  396),  are  rapids  rather  than  falls  and  are  scarcely  visible  when  the 
river  is  full.  Vessels  are  enabled  to  avoid  them  by  a canal  2^2  M.  long. 

Louisville  contains  comparatively  little  to  interest  a stranger. 
Perkaps  the  most  prominent  building  is  the  Custom  House,  in 


396  Route  61. 


LOUISVILLE. 


Chestnut  St.,  between  3rd  and  4th  Sts.  The  Court  House  is  in 
Jefferson  St.,  between  5th  and  6th  Sts.,  and  is  adjoined  by  the 
City  Hall,  with  its  square  clock-tower.  — The  Louisville  Public 
Library  (shortly  to  he  merged  in  the  Carnegie  Free  Library),  in 
4th  Ave.,  contains  63,000  vols.,  an  art-gallery,  and  a small  museum, 
including  the  *Troost  Collection  of  Minerals.  The  Farmers  Tobacco 
Warehouse,  in  Main  St.,  the  centre  of  the  tobacco  trade,  has  a storage 
capacity  of  nearly  7000  hogsheads  and  sells  about  30  million  pounds 
of  leaf  tobacco  yearly.  Public  auctions  of  tobacco  take  place  here 
almost  daily.  — The  University  of  Louisville,  cor.  of  9th  and  Chestnut 
Sts.,  is  a handsome  building.  — The  Columbia  Building,  cor.  of  4th 
and  Main  Sts.,  is  13  stories  high. 

No  stranger  in  Louisville  should  omit  to  visit  *Cave  Hill  Cem- 
etery, which  lies  on  the  E.  margin  of  the  city  (tramway)  and  is  very 
prettily  laid  out.  The  high  grounds  in  it  command  good  views. 
The  large  building  with  a dome  seen  to  the  N.E.  is  the  State  Blind 
Asylum,  containing  the  American  Printing  House  for  the  Blind.  A 
little  nearer  is  the  Workhouse.  Among  the  monuments  in  the  cem- 
etery is  one  to  the  family  of  George  Keats,  the  younger  brother  of  the 
poet,  who  emigrated  to  the  United  States  in  1818  and  died  at  Louis- 
ville in  1842.  — Fourth  Avenue  (tramway),  with  many  pleasant 
residences,  leads  S.,  passing  the  pretty  little  Central  Park,  to  the 
Racecourse.  Louisville  possesses  three  fine  parks : Iroquois  Park, 
Cherokee  Park,  and  Shawnee  Park,  to  the  S.,  E.,  and  W.  of  the  city. 

The  Louisville  Bridge,  1 M.  long,  crossing  to  the  W.  end  of 
Jeffersonville,  was  built  in  1868-72  and  has  27  iron  spans  supported 
by  limestone  piers.  The  Kentucky  and  Indiana  Bridge,  leading  to 
New  Albany  (p.  395),  is  V2  M.  long  (1886).  A third  bridge,  also 
leading  to  Jeffersonville,  was  constructed  in  1892. 

Zachary  Taylor  (1784-1850)  is  buried  near  his  old  home,  5 M.  to  the 
E.  of  Louisville  (monument). 

From  Louisville  to  the  Mammoth  Gave,  Nashville,  and  New  Orleans,  see 
R.  62h^  to  Memphis  and  Orleans,  see  R.  62c*,  to  Cincinnati,  see  R.  62  b. 
— A visit  to  the  Wyandotte  Cave  (p.  395)  is  easily  made  from  Louisville  by 
rail  or  steamer. 

From  Louisville  to  Lexington,  87  M.,  Southern  R.  R.  inSi^brs.  (also 
in  about  the  same  time  by  the  L,  <fe  N.  or  C.  <fe  O.  R.  R.).  The  Lexington 
branch  diverges  at  (681/2  M.)  Lawrencehurg  from  the  main  line  to  Chatta- 
nooga. — 87  M.  Lexington,  in  the  ‘Blue  Grass  Country’,  see  p.  397. 


62.  From  Cincinnati  to  New  Orleans. 

a.  Via  Chattanooga  CQueen  ^ Crescent  Route'). 

830  M.  Railway  in  24-25  hrs.  (fare  $21;  sleeper  $5).  Cincinnati,  New 
Orleans,  ik  Texas  Pacific  Railway  to  (338  M.)  Chattanooga;  Alabama  Great 
Southern  R.  R.  thence  to  (634  M.)  Meridian;  New  Orleans  & North  Eastern 
R.  R.  thence  to  (830  M.)  New  Orleans.  This  line  traverses  the  famous  Blue 
Grass  Region  of  Kentucky. 

Cincinnati  (Central  Union  Station),  see  p.  384.  The  train  crosses 
the  Ohio  to  (3  M.)  Ludlow  (to  the  right,  the  pleasure-grounds  known 


LEXINGTON. 


62.  Route.  397 


as  the  Lagoon^  p.  384)  and  runs  through  Kentucky.  The  country 
traversed  is  pleasant,  but  few  of  the  stations  are  important.  21  M. 
Walton  (925  ft.) ; 52  M.  Hinton  (948  ft.) ; 70  M.  Georgetown  (875  ft.). 

82  M.  Lexington  (965  ft.;  Phoenix.,  Leland,  $2-21/2, 

R.  from  $ 1),  a thriving  little  town  with  26,369  inhah.,  is  the  metro- 
polis of  the  famous  Blue  Grass  Country  (see  below)  and  one  of  the 
most  important  horse  and  cattle  markets  in  the  United  States.  It 
received  its  name  from  having  been  founded  in  the  year  of  the 
battle  of  Lexington  (p.  149).  The  city  is  well  built  and  contains 
many  pleasant  residences.  It  is  the  site  of  the  University  of  Ken- 
tucky (1160  students,  including  the  commercial  college)  and  the 
State  Agricultural  Mechanical  College  (600  students),  and  has  large 
distilleries  of  ‘Bourbon’  whiskey.  Henry  Clay  (1777-1852)  is  com- 
memorated by  a monument.  The  trotting-races  held  here  are  largely 
frequented;  the  famous  track  of  the  Kentucky  Horse  Breeders’ 
Association  is  opposite  the  rail,  station. 

Lexington  may  also  be  reached  from  Cincinnati  by  the  Louisville 
Nashville  R.  R.  (99  M.),  which  also  passes  through  part  of  the  Blue  Grass 
Region  (see  below).  From  Lexington  to  Washington,  see  pp.  383,  332:  to 
Louisville,  see  p.  396.  > ? 

The  Blue  Grass  Region,  which  occupies  about  10,000  sq.  M.  in  N. 
Kentucky,  is  an  undulating  and  fertile  plateau  surrounded  by  hills.  The 
soil  is  very  rich,  and  agriculture,  especially  the  raising  of  tobacco  and 
hemp,  is  carried  on  with  great  success.  Its  characteristic  feature,  however, 
consists  of  the  celebrated  pastures  of  ‘Blue  Grass’  (Poa  pratensis),  which 
support  the  horses  and  other  livestock  for  which  Kentucky  is  famous.  Stock 
farms  abound  throughout  the  whole  district,  especially  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Lexington.  The  American  trotting  horse  was  here  brought  to  its  present 
high  state  of  excellence,  the  blood  horses  of  Kentucky  exhibiting  a remark- 
able combination  of  speed  and  endurance.  Among  the  most  famous  stock 
farms  near  Lexington  is  Ashland  (IV2  M.),  formerly  the  home  of  Henry 
Clay  and  now  the  property  of  his  granddaughter,  Mrs.  H.  C.  McDowell. 
‘Mambrino  Chier  and  ‘Dictator’,  two  of  the  most  famous  sires  of  the  American 
stud-book,  were  Ashland  horses.  Woocg)urn,  15  M.  from  Lexington,  was 
the  home  of  the  famous  thorough-bred  ‘Lexington’  and  the  birthplace  of 
‘Maud  S.  who  trotted  a mile  in  2 min.  8^/4  sec.  ‘Haney  Hanks’,  who 
trotted  a mile  in  2.4,  was  bred  by  Mr.  Hart  Boswell  at  Poplar  Hill,  7 M. 
to  the  H.  of  Lexington.  The  home  of  Mr.  J.  B.  Haggin,  4 M.  from  Lexington, 
is  the  handsomest  residence  in  the  State  and  cost  $100, OCX);  it  is  surrounded 
by  4000  acres  constituting  the  largest  and  finest  stock-farm  in  the  world. 
Paris,  on  the  Ken.  Central  R.  R.,  19  M.  to  the  H.E.  of  Lexington,  is  another 
centre  of  racing  stock;  and  there  are  also  important  stud -farms  near 
Cynthiana,  13  M.  farther  to  the  H. 

At  (103  M.)  High  Bridge  (765  ft.)  tbe  train  crosses  the  Kentucky 
Biver  by  a fine  ^Cantilever  Bridge,  280  ft.  high,  with  three  spans  of 
375  ft.  each  (view).  A cave  in  the  cliff  near  the  bridge  is  said  to 
have  been  ocenpied  by  Daniel  Boone,  the  famous  pioneer.  — At 
(109  M.)  Burgin  we  are  joined  by  the  line  from  Louisville  (p.  395). 
II61/2  M.  Danville  (955  ft.),  with  the  Presbyterian  Centre  College; 
121 M.  Junction  Cit2/l(988ft.).  At  (139  M.)  King^s  Mountain  (1170ft.) 
we  pass  through  a tunnel  1300  yds.  long.  161  M.  Somerset  (880  ft.). 
At  (168  M.)  Burnside  we  cross  the  Cumberland  River  (view).  The 
line  here  runs  high  up  on  the  cliffs.  181  M.  Beaver  Gap  is  the  station 


398  Route  62. 


MAMMOTH  CAYE.  From  Cincinnati 


for  the  (1  M.)  Natural  Bridge  of  Kentucky,  which  is  30  ft.  high  and 
has  a span  of  60  ft.  From  (182  M.)  Cumberland  Falls  Station  (i2b0  ft.) 
coaches  run  to  (12  M.)  ^Cumberland  Falls,  60  ft.  high.  Beyond 
(197  M.)  Pine  Knot  (1425  ft.)  we  enter  Tennessee  (the  ‘Volunteer 
State’),  where  the  line  traverses  the  picturesque  district  of  the  foot- 
hills of  the  Cumberland  Mts.,  among  which  are  numerous  pleasant 
summer-resorts.  Beyond  (210  M.)  Oneida  we  reach  the  highest  point 
on  the  line  (1520  ft.).  224  M.  Rugby  Road  (1390  ft.)  is  the  station 
for  Rugby  (7  M.  to  the  W. ; 1400  ft.),  founded  in  1880  by  Tom 
Hughes  (author  of  ‘Tom  BrowiTs  School-Hays’)  and  partly  colonized 
by  Englishmen.  232  M.  Sunbright  (1350  ft.),  on  the  Cumberland 
Plateau;  254  M.  Oakdale  (Babahatchie  Inn),  on  the  Emory  River, 
along  which  the  train  descends.  — 258  M.  Harriman  (Cumberland, 
$ 2),  an  iron-making  place,  is  15  M.  from  Alum  Springs,  a favourite 
resort  amid  the  Cumberland  Mts.  It  is  the  junction  of  the  Southern 
Railway  line  to  Knoxville  and  Asheville  (comp.  p.  424).  — 283  M. 
Spring  City;  300  M.  Dayton  (715  ft.).  Between  Hixson  and  (334  M.) 
Boyce  (695  ft.)  we  cross  the  Tennessee  River.  The  battlefield  of 
Missionary  Ridge  (p.  425)  is  seen  to  the  left. 

338  M.  Chattanooga  (675  ft.),  and  thence  to  — 

830  M.  New  Orleans,  see  R.  67b. 


b.  Vi&  Louisville  and  Nashville. 

925  M.  Louisville  & Nashville  Railroad  in  22-30  lirs.  (fare  $ 21 ; 
sleeper  $5;  free  reclining  chair  car). 

Cincinnati^  see  p.  384.  The  train  crosses  the  Ohio  to  (2  M.) 
Newport  (p.  387)  and  runs  to  the  S.W.  through  Kentucky.  At  (21 M.) 
Walton  we  cross  the  route  above  described.  83  M.  Lagrange  is  the 
junction  of  lines  to  (16 M.)  Lexington  (p.  397),  etc.  98  M.  Anchorage. 

114  M.  Louisville,  see  p.  395.  The  train  now  runs  towards  the 
S.  — From  (136  M.)  Bardstown  Junction  a line  runs  to  (37  M.) 
Springfield  (Ky.),  and  from  (143  M.)  Lebanon  Junction  another 
runs  to  Lebanon  and  Knoxville  (p.  424).  At  (19  M.)  Qethsemane,  on 
the  latter  line,  is  the  only  Trappist  monastery  in  the  United  States.  — 
From  (204  M.)  Glasgow  Junction  a short  line  diverges  to  Mammoth 
Cave  (see  below). 

From  Glasgow  Junction  to  Mammoth  Cave,  9 M.,  railway  in  3/4  hr. 
At  present  there  are  three  trains  daily,  at  7.45  a.m.,  11.35  a.m.,  and 
5.35  p.m.  (returning  at  9,  3,  and  6.15  p.m.).  — At  the  end  of  the  railway, 
on  the  Green  River ^ at  a height  of  900  ft.  above  the  sea,  stands  the  Mammoth 
Cave  Hotel  ($  2-3),  250  yards  from  the  cave.  Guides,  etc.,  are  procured 
at  the  hotel.  About  5000  tourists  visit  the  cave  yearly. 

fi'he  * Mammoth  Cave  of  Kentucky,  accidentally  discovered  by  a 
hunter  in  1809,  is  the  largest  cave  known,  extending  below  the  earth 
for  9-10  M. , while  the  various  avenues  already  explored  have  a total 
length  of  about  175  M.  The  carboniferous  limestone  of  Kentucky,  in 
which  the  cave  occurs,  occupies  an  area  of  8000  sq.  M.,  and  Prof.  Shaler 
estimates  that  there  are  at  least  100,000  miles  of  open  caverns  beneath  it. 
The  interior  contains  a vast  series  of  halls,  domes,  grottoes,  caverns, 
cloisters,  lakes,  rivers,  and  the  like,  to  which  more  or  less  appropriate 


to  New  Orleans. 


NASHVILLE. 


6^.  Route.  399 


names  have  been  given.  There  are  comparatively  few  stalactites  or  sta- 
lagmites, but  some  of  those  found  here  are  of  great  size.  Two  regular 
routes  have  been  established,  over  which  guides  conduct  visitors  at 
stated  times,  but  those  who  wish  to  make  a more  leisurely  exploration 
can  make  special  arrangements.  The  Long  or  River  Route  (ca.  20  M. ; fee 
$ 3)  includes  the  Rotunda,  the  Main  Cave,  the  Bottomless  Pit,  Fat  Man’s 
Misery,  River  Hall,  Dead  Sea,  Echo  River,  and  about  6 M.  beyond,  with 
return  by  the  Corkscrew.  The  Short  or  Pits  and  Domes  Route  (8  M.^  $2) 
takes  in  the  Rotunda,  Main  Cave,  Olive’s  Bower,  Gothic  Avenue,  Giant’s 
Coffin,  Star  Chamber,  Harrison  Hall,  Gorin’s  Dome,  and  the  Labyrinth. 
The  pure  air  and  even  temperature  (52-56'^  Fabr.)  make  these  excursions 
much  less  fatiguing  than  they  would  be  above  ground.  Visitors  often 
accomplish  the  Short  Route  on  the  evening  of  their  arrival  (7-11  p.m.) 
and  the  Long  Route  on  the  following  day  (9  a. m.  - 6 p.m.).  Luncheon  is 
carried  in  from  the  hotel.  Special  fees  ($  1 each)  are  charged  for  visits 
to  the  Mammoth  Dome  and  Chief  City  (540  ft.  long,  200ft.  wide,  and 
120  ft.  high).  The  fees  include  the  fireworks  necessary  to  illuminate  the 
domes  and  chasms.  The  curiosities  of  the  cave  include  eyeless  fish  (Am- 
blyopsis  spelaeus)  and  craw-fish.  It  contains  large  deposits  of  nitrous  earth, 
from  which  saltpetre  was  made  in  1811-15.  A good  account  of  the 
Mammoth  Cave,  by  H.  C.  Hovey  and  R.  E.  Call,  is  sold  at  the  hotel  (50  c.). 
— A visit  may  also  be  paid  to  the  White  Gave  ($  1),  with  fine  stalactites. 

228  M.  Bowling  Green  (Rail.  Restaurant;  8226  inhab.).  At 
(232  M.)  Memphis  Junction  the  line  forks,  one  branch  running  to 
the  S.W.  (right)  to  Memphis  (p.  401) , while  the  other  holds  on 
nearly  due  S.  Near  (254M.)  Mitchellville  we  enter  Tennessee  (p.398). 
289  M.  Edgefield  Junction,  for  the  line  to  St.  Louis  (p.  389). 

301  M.  Nashville  (550  ft.  ; Maxwell  Ho.^  R.  from  $1 ; Duncan, 
$3-5;  Tulane,  from  $2;  Utopia),  the  ‘Rock  City’,  the  capital  of 
Tennessee,  with  (1900)  80,865  inhab.,  occupies  a somewhat  hilly 
site  on  both  banks  of  the  Oumherland  River.  It  contains  extensive 
manufactories  of  hard-wood  wares,  large  flourmills,  and  various 
other  industries  (value  of  products  in  1900,  $ 18,470,000),  and 
it  is,  perhaps,  the  most  important  educational  centre  in  the  South. 
The  most  prominent  building  in  the  city  is  the  State  Capitol  (with 
a tower  205  ft.  high),  conspicuously  situated  on  a hill.  In  its 
grounds  are  a bronze  Equestrian  Statue  of  Andrew  Jackson,  by  Clark 
Mills,  and  the  Tomb  of  President  Polk  (1795-1849),  whose  home  (Polk 
Place)  stood  at  the  corner  of  Vine  and  Union  Sts.  Among  the  other 
chief  buildings  are  the  Court  House,  the  Blind  Asylum,  the  Custom 
House,  the  Vendome  Theatre,  the  Carnegie  Library,  and  the  City  Hall. 
At  the  head  of  the  educational  institutions  stands  the  large  Vander- 
bilt University,  endowed  by  Cornelius  Vanderbilt  with  $ 1,000,000 
and  attended  by  700  students.  In  the  Campus  is  a colossal  statue 
of  the  founder,  by  Moretti,  unveiled  in  1897.  The  academic  depart- 
ment of  the  University  of  Nashville  has  been  converted  into  the 
Peabody  Teachers'  College  (600  students).  The  Fisk  University 
(500  students),  the  Roger  Williams  University  (250  students),  and  the 
Walden  L'niversity  (750  students)  are  the  leading  seats  of  learning 
for  coloured  persons.  Other  large  schools  are  Boscobel  College, 
Belmont  College,  the  Saint  Cecilia  Academy,  and  the  Ward  Seminary. 
1 he  Watkins  Institute  contains  a good  library  and  the  interesting 


400  Route  e2. 


PADUCAH. 


From  Cincinnati 


collections  of  the  Tennessee  Historical  Society . In  1897  the  Tennessee 
Centennial  Exposition  was  held  in  the  W.  suburbs  of  Nashville,  near 
West  End  Park;  and  some  of  its  handsome  buildings  have  been  left 
standing. 

Among  the  places  of  interest  near  Nashville  are  the  Hermitage^  the 
home  of  Oen.  Andrew  Jackson  (1767-1845),  11  M.  to  the  E.  (on  the  railway 
to  Lebanon,  p.  398)^  Belle  Meade^  a famous  stock-farm,  6 M.  to  the  S.W., 
now  owned  by  the  heirs  of  the  late  Gen.  W.  H.  Jackson  (Iroquois,  the  only 
American  winner  of  the  Derby,  was  bred  here)  \ and  the  National  Cemetery^ 
41/2  M.  to  the  N.,  containing  16,500  graves.  — In  the  Battle  of  Nashville^ 
fought  on  Dec.  15-16th,  1834,  Gen.  Hood,  at  the  head  of  a Confederate 
army  of  40,000  men,  was  completely  defeated  by  Gen.  Thomas.  — Lines 
radiate  from  Nashville  to  St.  Louis  (p.  339),  Hickman  (p.  406),  Memphis 
(p.  401),  Chattanooga  (p.  425),  etc. 

The  line  continues  to  run  towards  the  S.  347  M.  Columbia,  on 
the  Duck  River.  At  (394  M.)  State  Line  we  enter  Alabama  (p.  420). 
At  (422  M.)  Decatur  (see  p.  426)  we  cross  the  Tennessee.  455  M. 
Cullman;  508  M.  Birmingham^  see  p.  426 ; 541  M.  Calera. 

604  M.  Montgomery^  and  thence  to  (784  M.)  Mobile  and  — 

925  M.  New  Orleans,  see  R.  67  a. 

c.  Vis.  Louisville  and  Memphis. 

919  M.  Railway  in  26-27  hrs.  (fare  $21;  sleeper  $5).  This  route  follows 
the  Baltimore  <S:  Ohio  South-Western  Railway  to  (130  M.)  Louisville.^  and  the 
Illinois  Central  Railroad  thence  to  New  Orleans. 

Cincinnati  (Central  Union  Station),  see  p.  384.  — The  train 
runs  at  first  towards  the  W.  5 M.  Culloms.  Beyond  (15  M.)  'North 
Bend  we  enter  Indiana.  22  M.  Lawrenceburg ; 26  M.  Aurora;  52  M. 
Osgood;  59  M.  Holton.  — 73  M.  North  Vernon  {Commercial  Ho., 
$2),  with  2823  inhab.,  is  a junction  of  some  importance.  Our  line 
now  bends  to  the  S.  — 86  M.  Paris ; 98  M.  Lexington ; 120  M. 
Watson;  127  M.  New  Albany  (p.  395).  We  now  cross  the  Ohio  and 
enter  Kentucky.  — 130  M.  Louisville,  see  p.  395. 

Beyond  Louisville  the  line  runs  at  first  towards  the  S.  W.  177  M. 
Cecilia;  202  M.  Leitchfield.  Beyond  (248  M.)  Rockport  we  cross  the 
Green  River.  257  M.  Central  City;  310  M.  Princeton;  324  M.  Kut- 
tawa.  A little  farther  on  we  cross  the  Cumberland  and  soon  after 
the  Tennessee,  which  here  (15-20  M.  above  their  mouths  in  the  Ohio) 
approach  within  3-4  M.  of  each  other. 

357  M.  Paducah  {Palmer  Ho.,  $ 3),  a city  of  19,446  inhab., 
lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ohio,  a little  below  the  influx  of  the 
Tennessee.  It  carries  on  a brisk  trade  in  tobacco,  grain,  and  pork. 
— Our  line  now  turns  abruptly  to  the  S.  (left). 

At  (403  M.)  Fulton  {KnighCs  Hotel,  $2)  we  reach  the  line  from 
Chicago  to  New  Orleans  described  in  R.  63.  Some  of  the  trains 
from  Cincinnati  to  New  Orleans  also  follow  the  route  via  Jackson 
(comp.  p.  403).  We  now  enter  Tennessee.  — Beyond  (427  M.) 
Obion  we  cross  the  Obion  River ; beyond  (447  M.)  Dyersburg  the 


to  New  Orleans. 


MEMPHIS. 


62.  Route.  401 


two  branches  of  the  Forked  Deer  River;  and  beyond  1477  M I Hen- 
nm?  3 the  J%  Hatchee.  M.  Covington;  513  M.  Woodstock. 

3 M.  Memphis  (^00  ft. ; yayoso,  Peabody,  $ 21/2-4,  R.  from 
III/*’  -iMehrman's,  for  men,  B.  from 

Clarendon,  PVamtoit,  $2-21/2),  the  first 
city  of  Tennessee  and  the  most  important  on  the  Mississippi  between 
strikingly  situated  on  the  Chickasaw 
Bluffs,  with  a wide  levee  overlooking  the  river.  It  is  one  of  the  most 

3Fft)3?J®188n®f'"ino®Qon  “lann  increased  from 

33,593  in  1880  to  102,320  in  1900.  It  is  of  great  importance  as  a 

distributing  point  for  cotton  (8-900,000  bales),  gtocLies,  shoes, 
hardware,  lumber,  and  other  commodities.  Several  railways  con ’ 
verge  here  (comp  pp.  426,  611)  and  many  lines  of  steamers  ply 

^89911^1^"  f C=°“P-  P-  406).  The  railway-brid^ge 

(1892)  IS  the  only  bridge  across  the  Mississippi  to  the  S.  of  St.  Louis. 

I he  Cotton  Exchange,  the  Merchants'  Exchange,  the  Custom 
House,  the  Office  of  the  Appeal-Avalanclw,  the  St.  Agnes  Academy 
the  buildings  of  the  Tennessee  Club,  the  Chickasaw  Club,  the  Ath- 
eUc  Association,  the  new  Ooodwyn  Institute  (to  contain  a public 
library  and  a large  auditorium),  and  the  Cossett  Free  Library  are 
among  the  most  conspicuous  buildings.  The  Levee  presents  a busy 
and  animated  picture , and  interesting  visits  may  be  paid  to  the 
various  Cotton  Compresses  pn  which  bales  of  cotton  are  prepared  for 
transportation  by  being  reduced  by  hydraulic  pressure  to  one-fourth 
size)  and  Cottonseed  Oil  Mills.  Court  Square  contains 
a bust  of  Gen.  Andrew  Jackson  and  innumerable  squirrels 

PnoM  Memphis  to  New  Orleans  via  Vicksburg  M j’  ar- 

Clayton  we  pass  Beaver  Dam  Lake  and  Beaver  Dam  Bavov  m r 7 
218  M.  iVawLai  C^tlry  0“  *lie  Old  River; 

man  in  lob2,  it  was  finally  captured  bv  Grant  in  rTni-tr  • 

0''  ‘™»p»  (c«““  P xlv  294^  The 

Ndtimal  eatery  above  the  city  contains  16,W graves  ’ 

Port  «:frr'*rom7269  M) 

(P.40T).  Farther  on  we  cros” 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  26 


402  EouU  63. 


CAIBO. 


taker  we  enter  Loui&iana.  — 366  M.  Baton  Rouge  {Mayer  Hotels  $2),  the 
capital  of  Louisiana,  is  a quaint  old  place  with  11,269  inhab.,  on  a blutF 
above  the  Mississippi.  It  contains  the  Louisiana  Slate  University  and  other 
State  institutions.  — Beyond  Baton  Rouge  we  skirt  the  Mississippi,  with 
its  low  banks  and  levees,  sugar-plantations,  and  picturesque  planters’ 
houses.  446  M.  Kenner, 

456  M.  New  Orleans,  see  p.  461. 

Trains  also  run  from  Memphis  to  New  Orleans  by  the  so-called  ‘Frisco 
System’,  following  the  Birmingham  line  to^(96M.)  Tupelo,,  running  thence 
to  the  S.  over  the  Mobile  & Ohio  R.  R.  to  (240  M.)  Meridian  (p.  426)  and 
thence  by  the  New  Orleans  <fe  North-Eastern  R.  R.  to  (434  M.)  New  Orleans 
(p.  461). 

After  calling  in  Memphis  at  the  Poplar  St.  and  Calhoun  St. 
Stations,  the  through  - train  from  Cincinnati  to  New  Orleans  runs 
towards  the  S.E.  536  M.  Horn  Lake;  542  M.  Nesbitt;  574  M.  Sar- 
dis; 603  M.  Oakland.  — At  (625  M.)  Grenada  (p.  403)  we  join  the 
main  line  from  Chicago.  Hence  to  — 

919  M.  New  Orleans,  see  p.  403, 


63.  From  Chicago  and  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans. 

Illinois  Centeal  R.  R.  from  Chicago  to  (922  M.)  New  Orleans  in  26  hrs. 
(fare  $23;  through-sleeper  $6);  from  St.  Louis  to  (706  M.)  New  Orleans 
in  20V2-24*|2  hrs.  (fare  $18;  sleeper  $5). 

The  train  from  St.  Louis  runs  via  Belleville  and  PincJcneyville  and  joins 
the  Chicago  line  (described  below)  at  (95  M.)  Carhondale  (see  below). 

From  Chicago  to  (81  M.)  Gilman,  see  R.  55a.  Our  line  continues 
to  run  towards  the  S.  103  M.  Paxton;  114  M.  Rantoul  (see  p.  376); 
128  M.  Champaign  (Rail.  Restaurant),  junction  of  a line  to  Decatur 
(p.  377);  137  m'.  mono;  158  M.  Areola;  172  M.  Mattoon;  199  M. 
Effingham ; 214  M.  Edgewood ; 244  M.  Odin;  252  M.  Centralia  (Rail. 
Restaurant),  one  of  the  chief  outlets  of  a rich  fruit-growing  country 
(6721  inhab.)  ; 288  M.  Du  Quoin,  the  junction  of  lines  to  El  Dorado 
and  St.  Louis  (p.  389).  — At  (308  M.)  Carhondale , a busy  little 
industrial  town  (3318  inhab.),  we  are  joined  by  the  line  from  St. 
Louis  (see  above).  329  M.  Anna  adjoins  Jonesboro,  a busy  market 
for  fruit  and  cotton.  From  (356  M.)  Mounds  a branch -line  runs 
to  (4  M.)  Mounds  City, 

365  M.  Cairo  {Halllday,  $ 2-5  ; Planters,  $ 2),  a manufacturing 
city  with  12,566  inhab. , lies  on  a low  fiat  tongue  of  land  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio.  In  one  of  its  squares  is  a 
heroic  bronze  figure  of  ‘The  Hewer’,  by  G.  G.  Barnard.  Cairo  is 
said  to  be  the  ‘Eden’  of  ‘Martin  Chuzzlewit’.  — The  train  crosses 
the  Ohio  by  a fine  bridge  and  enters  Kentucky.  392  M.  Clinton. 
At  (406  M.)  Fulton  (p.  400)  we  are  joined  by  the  line  from  Cin- 
cinnati and  Louisville  (R.  62  c)  and  enter  Tennessee.  The  rail- 
way forks  here,  the  right  branch  running  to  Memphis , while  the 
left  runs  via  Jackson  (Tenn.)  to  Grenada  (see  p.403).  The  through- 
trains  from  Chicago,  Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans 
follow  the  former  route. 


JACKSON. 


63.  Route.  403 


Jackson  (Armour^  Few  Southern,  $2),  with  14,511  inhab.,  is  a con- 
siderable cotton-market  and  carries  on  various  industries.  It  lies  64  M.  to 
the  S.  of  Fulton,  and  beyond  it  the  line  goes  on  via  (47  M.)  brand  Junction 
and  (25  M.)  Holly  Springs  (Rail.  Restaurant)  to  (75  M.)  Grenada,  where  it 
unites  with  the  main  line  described  in  this  route. 

From  Fulton  our  train  runs  towards  the  S.W.  424  M.  Moffatt; 
481  M.  Henning ; 510  M.  Millington. 

527  M.  Memphis  (Rail.  Restaurant),  see  p.  401.  We  stop  here 
first  at  the  Poplar  St.  and  then  at  the  Calhoun  St.  station.  Two 
routes  run  hence  to  New  Orleans,  one  via  Yickshurg  (p.  401),  the 
other  via  Grenada.  Our  train  follows  the  latter  and  runs  towards 
the  S.E.  — 551  M.  Hernando;  578  M.  Sardis;  605  M.  Oakland.  — 
At  (628  M.)  Grenada,  on  the  Yalobusha  River,  we  rejoin  the  route  we 
left  at  Fulton  (see  p.402).  681 M.  Durant;  717  M.  Canton.  — 740  M. 

[Edwards  Ho.,  $2^2"^)?  IE©  small  capital  of  Mississippi 
(7816  inhab.),  has  a handsome  State  House  and  other  public  build- 
ings. — 794  M.  Brookhaven;  818  M.  McComb  City.  — Beyond 
(835  M.)  Osyka  we  enter  Louisiana.  870  M.  Hammond.  In  ap- 
proaching New  Orleans  we  cross  the  outlet  of  Lake  Maurepas  (right) 
and  skirt  Lake  Pontchar train  (left).  915  M.  Pacific  Junction. 

922  M.  New  Orleans,  see  p.  461. 


64.  From  St.  Paul  to  New  Orleans  by  the  Mississippi 
Kiver. 

The  Mississippi,  the  ‘Father  of  Waters’,  is  one  of  the  great  rivers  of 
the  world,  with  a length  of  2616  M.  (or,  reckoned  from  the  source  of  the 
Missouri,  of  4191 M.)  and  a drainage-basin  nearly  IV2  million  sq.M.  in  area. 
It  rises  in  the  N.  part  of  Minnesota,  on  the  watershed  between  Hud- 
son’s Bay  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico , and  is  a stream  12  ft.  wide  and  2 ft. 
deep  after  issuing  from  Lake  Itasca.  At  first  it  runs  towards  the  N.E.,  but 
soon  turns  towards  the  S.E.,  and  its  general  course  afterwards  runs  nearly 
due  S.,  though  with  many  bends  and  curves.  The  principal  tributaries 
are  the  Missouri,  which  joins  it  from  the  W.  about  1330  M.  from  its 
source;  the  Ohio,  which  comes  in  from  the  E.  220  M.  farther  on;  and  the 
Arkansas  (W.).  The  best  scenery  is  between  St.  Paul  and  St.  Louis,  where 
the  river  frequently  flows  between  lofty  and  picturesque  bluffs,  100-600  ft. 
high  and  1-5  M.  apart.  The  finest  reaches  are  between  St.  Paul  and 
Dubuque.  After  its  junction  with  the  Missouri  the  waters  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi become  yellow  and  turbid,  and  it  flows  mainly  through  a fiat 
and  monotonous  alluvial  plain.  As  we  near  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  the  vege- 
tation becomes  more  and  more  tropical  in  character,  and  the  river  finally 
loses  itself  in  a wilderness  of  creeks,  bayous,  and  swamps,  reaching  the 
gulf  through  several  outlets.  The  width  of  the  Mississippi  from  St.  Paul 
to  New  Orleans  seldom  varies  much  from  3000  ft. , except  at  the  bends, 
where  it  sometimes  expands  to  1 M.  or  IV2  M.  — The  United  States 
Government  has  spent  many  millions  of  dollars  in  improving  the  navi- 
gation of  the  Mississippi,  which  is  still  apt  to  be  interfered  with  by 
shallows  and  mud-banks.  The  most  important  work  was  the  construction 
of  the  famous  Eads  Jetties  (see  p.  407)  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  — The 
first  European  explorer  of  the  Mississippi  was  De  Soto  (1541),  who  is 
supposed  to  have  reached  it  a little  below  Helena  (p.  406). 

Though  there  is  a considerable  traffic  of  smaller  vessels  above  the 
Falls  of  St.  Anthony  (p.  368),  the  navigation  proper  of  the  Mississippi  begins 
at  St.  Paul.  The  steamers  of  the  Diamond  Jo  Line  leave  St,  Paul  twice 

26* 


404  Route  64. 


TREMPEALEAU. 


Mississippi 


weekly  in  summer  for  (729  M.)  St,  Louis,,  which  they  reach  in  8^/2  days 
(fare  $ 16,  inch  berth  and  meals).  At  the  time  of  going  to  press  there 
were  no  passenger-steamers  plying  from  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans^  but 
as  the  service  may  be  resumed  at  any  time,  and  as  steamers  ply  upon 
various  sections  of  the  route  {e.g.  between  Vicksburg  and  Greenville),  the 
description  in  the  following  pages  has  been  left  as  if  steamers  still  ran 
the  whole  distance.  In  any  case  few  travellers  would  care  to  make  the 
whole  journey  from  St.  Paul  to  New  Orleans;  but  a day  or  two  on  the 
river  -will  be  found  an  agreeable  change  from  the  dusty  railways.  The 
boat- companies  issue  combination-tickets,  allowing  any  part  of  the  journey 
the  traveller  selects  to  be  traversed  by  railway,  and  liberal  ‘stop-over' 
privileges  are  granted  on  all  tickets. 

The  commerce  carried  on  by  the  Mississippi  is  very  large,  but  it  is  nut 
practicable  to  give  trustworthy  statistics. 

In  the  following  description  of  the  voyage  down  the  river  only  the 
more  important  places  on  the  banks  are  mentioned.  The  distances  are 
reckoned  from  St.  Paul. 

St.  Paulj  see  p.  365.  The  steamer  passes  under  five  bridges. 
For  the  first  25  M.  or  so  both  banks  of  the  river  are  in  Minnesota 
(p.  362),  but  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix  River  (left)  the  E. 
bank  is  in  Wisconsin  (p.  359). 

27  M.  (right  bank)  Eastings  (swing-bridge),  see  p.  362. 

30  M.  (1.)  Prescott  (swing-bridge),  at  the  foot  of  Lake  St.  Croix^ 
an  enlargement  of  the  river  of  that  name. 

52  M.  (r.)  Red  Wing  (see  p.  362),  with  Barn  Bluff  (200  ft.). 
A little  farther  on  the  steamer  traverses  the  beautiful  expansion 
of  the  river  known  as  *Lake  Pepin  (seep.  362).  To  the  left  rises 
the  Maiden  Rock  (410  ft.),  to  the  right  is  the  bold  round  headland 
called  Point  No  Point. 

67  M.  (r.')  Front enac,  see  p.  362. — 73M.(r.)jLafce  C%(p.  362). 

— 79  M.  (1.)  North  Pepin.  — 84  M.  (r.)  Read's  Landing  (pontoon 
bridge),  at  the  lower  end  of  Lake  Pepin  and  opposite  the  mouth  of 
the  Chippewa.  — 87  M.  (r.)  Wabasha,,  see  p.  362.  — 117  M.  (1.) 
Fountain  City.  The  next  stretch  of  the  river  abounds  in  islands,  and 
the  flanking  bluffs  are  very  picturesque  in  outline.  — 125  M.  (r.) 
Winona  (two  bridges),  see  p.  362.  — 137  M.  (1.)  Trempealeau,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Black  River.  * Trempealeau  Island,  500  ft.  high, 
commands  a beautiful  view.  This  is  , perhaps , the  most  beautiful 
section  of  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

156  M.  (1.)  La  Crosse  (two  swing -bridges),  see  p.  362.  The 
scenery  continues  to  be  attractive,  while  the  towns  and  villages  on 
the  banks  now  follow  each  other  in  closer  succession. 

187  M.  (1.)  Victory.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  boundary  between 
Minnesota  and  Iowa  (p.  363),  whore  ‘Black  Hawk’  met  his  final 
defeat.  — 199  M.  (r.)  Lansing  (Iowa).  — 228  M.  (1.)  Prairie  du 
Chien  (pontoon  - bridge) , near  the  mouth  of  the  Wisconsin  River 
(see  p.  364).  Fishing  for  clam-shells  for  pearl-buttons  is  carried 
on  in  this  part  of  the  river,  and  not  a few  fresh-water  pearls  are 
found  in  the  course  of  it.  — 231  M.  (r.)  McGregor  (pontoon-bridge). 

— 252  M.  (r.)  Guttenberg.  ~ 260  M.  (1.)  Cassville.  — 289  M.  (1.) 


River, 


KEOKUK. 


64.  Route.  405 


East  Vubuque  (p.  363)  lies  in  Illinois  (p.  334),  just  teyond  the 
Nearly  opposite  rises  Eagle  Point  (300  ft.). 

i90  M.  (r.)  Dubuque  (two  bridges),  see  p.  363.  The  bluffs  now- 
become  lower  and  the  scenery  tamer.  — 335  M.  (1.)  Savanna  is 
connected  with  (337  M. ; r.)  Sahula  (p.  491)  by  a raWay-bridge. 

36o  M.  (1.)  Fulton  (p.  400)  , Lyons  (r.),  and  — 
tj  (P-  493)  are  connected  by  three  bridges.  — 

Beyond  (381  M. ; r.)  Le  Claire  we  shoot  the  picturesque  Upper  Ra- 
pids, which  extend  hence  to  Rock  Island. 

398  M.  (1.)  Rock  Island  (p.  493)  and  (397  M.;  r.)  Davenport 
are  united  by  the  fine  bridge  mentioned  at  p.  497.  A good  view  is 
obtained  of  the  Government  Island  Arsenal.  — 426M.rr.Wws- 
(mtme  (bridge;  Commercial,  $ 2Y2),  a thriving  city  with  14,073  in- 
hab.,  carries  on  a brisk  trade  in  timber,  sweet  potatoes,  and  melons 
.and  has  several  pearl-button  factories  (comp.  p.  4041  — 449  m’ 

Cl>^idge;  1566  inhab.).' 

480  M.  (r  ) Burlington  (bridge),  see  p.  494.-494  M.  (1.)  Dal- 
ias  Citi/.  — 504  M.  {x.')  Fort  Madison  (bridge),  seep.  506.  — 512M. 
(1.)  Vawoo,  a place  of  1321  inhab.,  was  once  a flourishing  Mormon 
city  with! a population  -15  qoo  (see  p.  639).  — 615  M.  (r.)  Mont- 
rWM  * at  the  head  of  the  Lower  Rapids,  which  extend  hence  to 
(027  M. ; r.)  Keokuk  (bridge;  Keokuk  Hotel,  $211^3-  14,641  inhab.) 
at  the  niouth  of  the  Hes  Moines  River,  here  forming  the  boundary 
between  Iowa  and  Missouri  (‘BuUion  State’).  — 531 M (1 1 Warsaw 

568  M.  (1.)  Quiney  (bridge),  see  p.  609.  — 588  M.  (r  1 Hanni- 
bal (bridge),  see  p.  608  - 616  M.  (r.)  Louisiana  (bridge;  5130 

663°'m^V  CfarkuiWe.  — 641  M.  (1.)  Hamburg.  — 

663  M.  (r.)  Cap  au  Gns  - 690  M.  (1.)  Grafton,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  nUrwis  River.  — f 06  M.  (1.)  Alton,  see  p.  377. 

'”’6  reacli  the  confluence  of  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Missouri.  The  latter  river,  flowing  in  from  the  N.W.  has 
a longer  course  than  the  Mississippi  up  to  their  junction  (2908  M. , as 
compared  with  lo30  M.)  and  contributes  a greater  volume  of  water 
to  the  joint  stream,  so  that  it  would  seem  that  the  name  Mississippi 
in  Its  application  below  this  point  has  clearly  usurped  the  place 
of  the  Missouri.  The  clear  waters  of  the  Mississippi  long  refuse  to 
mingle  with  the  turbid  flood  of  the  Missouri. 

magnificent  bridges  are 

Steamls  (iomp  p 4S)'  '' 

nf  Mississippi  differs  materially  from  that 

bLntv^rt!^  the  place  of  landscape 

beauty  is  taken  to  some  extent  by  historic  interest.  The  towns  and 
villages  on  the  banks  usually  follow  each  other  rapidly,  and  innumer- 
able  islands  are  passed.  ^ 

Soon  after  we  leave  St.  Louis,  Jefferson  Barracks  (p.  394)  are 


406  Route  64. 


HELENA. 


Mississippi 


seen  to  the  right.  761  M.  (32  M.  from  St.  Louis ; r.)  Crystal  City 
(see  p.  394).  — 789  M.  (r.)  Ste.  Genevieve  (1707  inhah.).  — 809 M. 
(1.)  Chester  (2832  iiihab.),  with  a large  penitentiary.  — Near 
(849  M. ; 1.)  Grand  Tower,  a favourite  resort  of  the  citizens  of  St. 
Louis,  we  pass  the  island  known  as  the  DeviVs  Tea  Table.  — 879  M. 
(r.)  Cape  Girardeau  (4815  inhah.).  — 894  M.  (r.)  Commerce.  The 
large  island  to  the  right,  a little  farther  on,  is  Power  s Island. 

929  M.  (1.)  Cairo  (315  ft.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  see  p.  402. 

— 951  M.  (1.)  Columbus  (bridge),  the  first  landing-place  in  Kentucky 

(p.  382),  was  strongly  fortified  by  the  Confederates  in  the  Civil  War, 
but  was  ultimately  abandoned  without  attack.  Just  beyond  is  Wolf 
Island  or  Island  No.  5.  — 967  M.  (1.)  Hickman  (1590  inhab.).  — 
Island  No.  10,  off  (986  M. ; r.)  Donaldson  Point,  was  also  strongly 
fortified  in  the  war  and  was  captured  by  the  Federal  gun-boats  in 
April,  1862,  after  a month’s  bombardment.  — 988  M.  (1.)  Wades, 
nearly  opposite,  is  in  Tennessee  (p.  398).  — 999  M.  (r.)  New  Ma- 
drid, 1490  inhab.,  was  captured  at  the  same  time  as  Island 

No.  10.  — 1017  M.  (1.)  Tiptonville.  A little  to  the  E.  Reel  foot 

Lake.  — Numerous  small  and  unimportant  landings  are  now  passed. 

— 1074  M.  (r.)  Hickman's  is  the  first  station  in  Arkansas  (p.  511). 

1119  M.  (1.)  Fort  Pillow,  situated  on  the  First  Chickasaw  Bluff, 

evacuated  by  the  Confederates  in  1862,  was  the  scene  of  what  is 
known  as  the  Fort  Pillow  Massacre  (April  12th,  1864).  The  river 
now  winds  considerably  and  passes  several  islands,  the  largest  of 
which  are  named  Centennial  and  Brandywine. 

1179  M.  (1.)  Memphis  (180  ft.  -,  bridge),  see  p.  401.  Farther  on 
numerous  windings  are  threaded.  — 1207  M.  (1.)  De  Soto  is  the  first 
station  in  Mississippi  (p.  422).  — 1261  M.  (r.)  Helena  (140  ft. ; rail- 
way-ferry) is  a busy  little  city  with  5550  inhab.  and  a trade  in 
timber.  — Numerous  small  stations.  — 1358  M.  (r.)  Mouth  of  the 
White  River,  which  rises  in  Missouri  and  joins  the  Mississippi  after 
a course  of  700  M. 

1365  M.  (r.)  Black  Hawk  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas 
River. 

The  Arkansas  River  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mts. , to  the  W.  oi  South 
Park  (p.  516),  and  has  a course  of  1600  M.,  of  which  800  M.  are  navigable. 

Beyond  the  Choctaw  Bend  we  reach  (1419  M. ; r.)  Arkansas  City 
(95  ft. ; 1090  inhab.).  — Passing  Rowdy  Bend,  Miller  s Bend,  Island  <S2 
(1431  M.),  and  Bachelor^  Bend,  we  reach  (1456  M. ; 1.)  Greenville, 
a small  cotton -trading  city  with  7642  inhabitants.  The  banks  are 
now  lined  with  cotton-plantations,  which  afford  a very  interestiiig 
sight  in  time  of  harvest  (Sept.-Nov.).  The  planters  houses,  especi- 
ally as  we  approach  the  S. , are  often  roomy  and  quaint  old  man- 
sions, surrounded  with  groves  of  fine  trees.  Many  of  the  trees  are 
fantastically  draped  with  Spanish  moss  (Tillandsia  usneoides). 
1484  M.  (r.)  Grand  Lake  is  the  first  station  in  Louisiana  (p.  422).  No 
places  of  any  great  size  or  importance  are  passed  till  we  reach 


Ri'eer.  NATCHEZ.  6 d.  Route.  407 

1579  M.  (1.)  Vicksburg  (40ft.;  railway-ferry;  see  p.  401). — 

1636  M.  (r.)  St.  Joseph.  — 1642  M.  (1.)  Rodney. 

1691m.  (1.)  Natchez  (iVaic/icx , $3-5;  Pearly  $2),  a city  of 
12,210  inbab.,  founded  by  D'Iberville  in  1700,  lies  on  and  at  tbe 
foot  of  a bluff  rising  200  ft.  above  tbe  river.  It  takes  its  name  from 
a now  extinct  tribe  of  Indians,  wbo  were  among  tbe  noblest  speci- 
mens of  Red  Men  in  America.  Some  traces  of  tbe  old  French  fort 
are  still  visible.  A National  Cemetery  adjoins  tbe  city. 

1756  M.  (1.)  Fort  Adams.  — 1767  M.  (r.)  Red  River  Landing^ 
at  tbe  moutb  of  tbe  Red  River.  Beyond  tbis  point  both  banks  of  tbe 
river  are  in  Louisiana.  — 1813  M.  (1.)  Bayou  Sara.  Oranges  and 
figs  may  now  be  seen  growing  in  tbe  open  air. 

The  ‘Swampers’  of  Bayou  Sara  are  a peculiar  community  of  wood- 
cutters, living  on  raft-houses  floating  in  the  swamps. 

1851  M.  (1.)  Baton  Rouge,  see  p.  422.  Tbe  course  of  tbe  river 
between  tbis  point  and  New  Orleans  is  very  circuitous.  Several 
sugar-plantations  are  passed.  — 1871  M.  (r.)  Flaquemine.  — 1883 M. 

(r.)  Bayou  Goula.  — 1896  M.  (r.)  Donaldsonville  (4105  inbab.).  — 

1912  M.  (1.)  Convent.  — 1917  M.  (1.)  Belmont  Plantation.  — 

1938  M.  Fruit  Plantation.  — 1943  M.  (1.)  Bonnet  Carre  Point.  — 

1954  M.  Red  Church.  — 1964  M.  (1.)  Kennerville.  — 1973  M.  Car- 
rollton (p.  466). 

1981  M.  New  Orleans,  see  R.  81. 

Below  Now  Orleans  tbe  trees  disappear,  tbe  river  banks  become 
less  defined,  and  tbe  river  finally  loses  itself  in  a vast  marsb,  tbrougb 
wbicb  various  ‘passes’  or  channels  lead  to  tbe  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Near 
New  Orleans  are  many  vegetable-gardens  and  small  fruit-farms,  often 
irrigated  by  syphon  pipes,  straddling  the  levee.  About  70  M.  from 
New  Orleans  tbe  ocean -steamers  pass  between  Fort  St.  Philip  (left) 
and  Fort  Jackson  (right)  and  soon  after  enter  tbe  South  Pass,  marked 
by  lighthouses.  At  tbe  lower  end  of  tbe  S.  Pass  are  tbe  wonderful 
*Eads  Jetties,  constructed  by  Capt.  Eads  in  1875-79  at  a cost  of 
$5,000,000  (1,000,000  i.)  and  forming  a channel  30  ft.  deep  where 
formerly  tbe  draught  was  not  more  than  10  ft.  Tbe  jetties,  273  and 
172  long,  are  constructed  of  willow  rods,  rubble,  and  concrete. 

Tbe  ends  of  tbe  jetties,  marked  by  two  lights,  may  be  called  tbe 
moutb  of  tbe  Mississippi,  beyond  wbicb  we  are  on  tbe  Gulf  of  Mexico.  f 


65.  From  Washington  to  Richmond. 

116  m.  Washington  Southern  and  Richmond,  Fredericksburg,  <fe  Poto- 
MAC  Railroads  in  3V4-4V4  ln’S.  (fare  $3.50^  parlor-car  50c.).  This  is  part  7 

of  the  Penn,  and  Atlantic  Coast  line  route  to  the  S.  (comp.  R.  75a).  t! 

Washington,  see  p.  309.  Tbe  train  crosses  tbe  Long  Bridge  “j! 

(p.  319),  affording  a view  of  Arlington  House  (p.  325)  to  tbe  right,  |j! 

enters  Virginia  (tbe  ‘Old  Dominion’),  and  skirts  tbe  right  bank  of 


408  Route  65, 


RICHMOND. 


Hotels. 


the  Potomac  to  (7  M.)  Alexandria  (p.  325)  and  (34  M.)  Quantico. 
The  line  now  edges  away  from  the  river  and  skirts  the  ‘ Wilderness', 
a barren  and  unattractive  district  widely  known  from  the  terrible 
struggles  of  the  Civil  War  that  took  place  here  in  1863-64  (p.  xlv). 

55  M.  Fredericksburg  {Exchange  Hotel,  $2),  a quaint  old  city 
of  5068  inhab.,  on  the  Rappahannock,  founded  in  1727.  It  was  the 
scene  of  a hardly-contested  battle  in  1862,  when  the  Confederates 
under  Lee  defeated  the  Union  troops  under  Burnside.  The  huge  Na- 
tional Cemetery,  on  Marye's  Heights,  contains  15,000  graves,  and 
there  is  also  a large  Confederate  Cemetery. 

Those  who  are  concerned  with  studying  the  campaigns  of  the  Civil 
War  will  find  much  to  occupy  their  attention  in  and  around  Fredericks- 
burg. Carriage.  $ 1 per  hr. ; the  negro  driver  will  point  out  the  places 
of  interest.  The  Buttle  of  Chancellor sville  (May  2nd-4th,  1863),  in  which 
‘Stonewall’  Jackson  was  mortally  wounded,  took  place  11  M.  to  the  W., 
resulting  in  another  repulse  to  the  Union  forces,  with  a loss  of  17,000  men. 
A little  to  the  S.  is  Spottsylvania  Court  House,  the  centre  of  some  of  Grant’s 
operations  in  1864  (p.  412).  The  ‘Battles  of  the  Wilderness’  between  Grant 
and  Lee  were  almost  continuous  during  May,  1864;  and  the  losses  of  the 
two  armies  exceeded  60,000.  Comp.  p.  412.  Many  houses  still  have  can- 
non-balls lodged  in  the  walls. 

Qeorge  ^ Washington  spent  his  boyhood  near  Fredericksburg.  His  mother 
died  here  in  1789  and  is  commemorated  by  a monument. 

The  train  runs  towards  the  S.  To  the  left  is  a stone  pyramid 
marking  Hamilton's  Crossing,  where  the  Confederates  were  posted 
in  the  battle  of  Dec.  13th , 1862.  At  (67  M.)  Guinea  Stonewall 
Jackson  died  (see  above;  the  small  house,  with  two  chimneys  at 
one  end , is  visible  to  the  left).  At  (92  M.)  Boswell  we  cross  the 

C.  & 0.  R.  R.  (R.  57  b).  — Henry  Clay  (1777-1852)  was  born  near 
(99  M.)  Ashland,  a favourite  resort  of  the  citizens  of  Richmond. 
It  is  the  seat  of  Randolph  Maccn  College  (125  students).  — 106  M. 
Glen  Allen  (Forest  Lodge),  a favourite  all-the-year-round  resort  of 
the  Richmoiidians. 

116  M.  Richmond.  — Railway  Stations.  Main  Street  Station  (PI. 

D,  2),  for  the  C.  & O.  and  Seaboard  Air  Line  railways;  Southern  Depot 
(PI.  D,  3),  for  the  Southern  Railway;  Byrd  Street  Station  (PI.  C,  3),  for  the 
Atlantic  Coast  Line  and  Rich.,  Fred.,  & Potomac  railways. 

Hotels.  *The  Jefferson  (PI.  a;  A,  2),  Jefierson  St.,  R.  from  $2; 
The  Richmond  (PI.  g;  C,  2),  Capitol  Sq.,  R.  from  $1V2;  Morphy’s  Hotel 
(PI.  c;  C,  2),  801  Broad  St.,  R.  from  $1,  well  spoken  of;  Lexington  (PI.  e; 
C,  D,  2),  cor.  of  12th  and  Main  Sts.  $ 2Y2-4,  R.  from  $1;  Powhatan, 
formerly  Ford’s  (PI.  b ; C,  2),  Capitol  Sq. ; Rdeger’s  (PI.  d ; C,  2),  Capitol 
Sq. , cor.  9th  and  Bank  Sts.,  R.  $1-2. 

Electric  Tramways  traverse  the  chief  streets  and  extend  to  the  suburbs 
(5  c. ; free  transfers  for  intersecting  lines).  — Hacks  and  Omnibuses  meet 
the  principal  trains ; fare  into  the  town  50  c.  each.  — Steamers  ply  down 
the  James  to  Norfolk  (fare  $11/2)5  Old  Point  Comfort,  Newport  News, 
Baltimore,  etc.  — Post  Office  (PI.  C,  2),  Main  St.,  between  10th  & 11th 
Sts.  — Academy  of  Music;  Bijou  Theatre.  — British  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  P. 
A.  S.  Brine. 

Richmond  (150-250  ft.),  the  capital  of  Virginia  and  one  of  the 
most  interesting  cities  of  the  S.,  is  situated  on  seven  low  hills  rising 
from  the  N.  bank  of  the  James  River.  In  1900  it  contained  85,050  in- 


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Capitol. 


RICHMOND. 


66.  Route.  409 

hab.  while  Manchester,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river  with 
which  It  IS  connected  by  several  bridges,  had  9715.  The  total 
estimated  population  of  the  city  and  suburbs  in  1904  was  145  000. 
The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  most  of  the  streets  running  n! 
and  S.  are  denoted  by  numbers.  Fine  water-power  is  afforded  by 
the  James  River,  which  descends  116  ft.  in  9 M 

founded  in  1737,  on  the  site  of  the  home  of  the  famon<» 
Indian  Chief  Powhatan^  and  had  still  only  a few  hundred  inhabitants  wIipti 
made  capital  of  the  State  in  1779.  At  various  nationarcrlses  U wL  chosen 
as  the  meeting-place  of  important  conventions;  and  in  1861  it  became  the 
seat  of  government  for  the  seceding  states.  The  capture  of  Smond 
becanae  ultimately  the  chief  objective  point  of  the  Union  troons  and  it 
with  great  obstinacy  by  the  Confederates,  wh^^hrew^up 
strong  lines  of  earthworks  all  round  it  (comp.  p.  412).  When  finallv 
compelled  to  evacuate  Richmond  (April  2nd,  1865;  comp  *p  410)  the  Con^ 
warehonsea’anaother  s^oresraL  a Sg; 
removed  devastation  have  befn 

K ^ ^ thriving  condition,  carrying  on  a brisk 

Ihe  European  visitor  will  probably  be  struck  by  the  number  of  NpnvtM>^ 

engaged  in  preparing  the  tobacco  for  the  market  and  amuse  themsp1vf»<s 

swe'irbu^enHrl!^Vn’i?a1ner“^ 

rPi  Capitol  Square 

f . 0,  ij,  a tree  shaded  area  of  12  acres,  in  which  the  wonderfully 
aiue  grey  squirrels  are  iuteresting.  Tlie  Capitol  or  State  House 
If  ^ t ■’  V ’ ‘J®®'Sned  alter  the  Maison  Oarre'e  at  Nimes,  occupies 
the  highest  point  of  the  square  and  dates  from  1785 

Confederate  House  of  Representatives  during  the  Civil  War-  it  contains 
The  Storming  of  Yorktown  (1781)’  h^  L ami'  Th^  vrn 

was  the  scene  of  Aaron  Burr  s trial  for  hiffh-trpacinn  rion?!  i 

on?hero?f  iCds  a line 

the  vici^fv  ^ 4121  ‘}»®  River,  and  the  battleBelds  of  ■ 

the  improvUfnt  ofthT  B^l^nT"  « 250,000  for 

Capitol  Square  also  contains  a fine  equestrian  Statue  of 
Washington,  by  Crawford,  with  figures  of  Patrick  Henry,  George 
PhTTV  Jefferson,  Thomas  Nelson,  Andrew  Lewis,  afd 

Jackson  pedestal;  a Statue  of  Stonewall 

Jackson  (18.4-63),  by  Foley,  ‘presented  by  English  gentlemen’  (Rt. 

of  Hunter  Holmes 

McUuire,  the  most  noted  surgeon  of  the  South:  and  a Statue  nf 
Hen^  Clay  (1777-1852),  by  Hart.  The  curious  old  irif  io  Js“  ot 
the  W.  side  of  the  square,  was  formerly  used  hy  the  Public  Guard. 


RICHMOND. 


8t.  John's  Church. 


410  Route  65. 


At  tlie  N.  E.  corner  of  tte  square  stands  tlie  Governor  s Mansion 
(PL  D,  2).  — On  tlie  N.  side,  in  Broad  St.,  is  tLe  City  Hall  (PL  C,  2), 
a handsome  Gothic  structure  with  a clock- tower.  — To  the  E.  of 
the  Capitol  is  the  State  Library  (PL  C,  D,  2),  containing 
80,000  vol.  and  the  largest  State  collection  of  portraits  in  the  coun- 
try, including  portraits  of  all  the  Governors  from  John  Smith  to 

Tyler.  In  St.  PauVs  Church  (PL  C,  2),  at  the  corner  of  9th  St. 

and  Grace  St.,  on  the  W.  side  of  Capitol  Sq.,  Jefferson  Davis  was 
seated  when  he  received  a despatch  from  Gen.  Lee,  announcing  that 
Richmond  must  he  evacuated  (April  2nd,  1865).  . ^ , 

In  12th  St.,  at  the  corner  of  Clay  St.,  a little  to  the  K.  of  Captol 
Sq.,  is  the  Jefferson  Davis  Mansion  (PI.  D,  1),  or  White  House  of  the  Con- 
federacy^ occupied  by  Mr.  Jefferson  Davis  as  President  of  the  Southern 
Confederacy.  It  is  now  fitted  up  as  a Museum  of  Confederate  Relics  (jam. 
25  c 1 In  the  rear  of  the  museum  is  part  of  the  propeller-shaft  ot  the 
‘Merrimac’  (p.  414).  [A  large  and  handsome  Confederate  Memorial  Ha^ll 
is  to  he  erected  in  connection  with  the  Museum  as  a Memorial  of  the 
Confederacy.] 

Following  Broad  St.  to  the  E.  from  Capitol  Sq.,  we  pass  on  the 
left,  near  the  corner  of  College  St.,  the  Monumental  Chur  chiPl.P^.'l), 
erected  on  the  site  of  the  Richmond  Theatre,  at  the  burning  of  which 
in  1811  Gov.  Smith  and  fifty-nine  others  lost  their  lives.  Opposite 
is  the  Memorial  Hospital  (PL  D,  2).  — About  3/^  M.  farther  on,  at 
the  corner  of  24th  St.  (r.),  is  St.  John’s  Church  (PL  F,  2),  erected 

in  1740,  but  since  much  enlarged. 

The  Virginia  Convention  was  held  in  this  church  in  1775,  and  the 
pew  is  pointed  out  in  which  Patrick  Henry  made  his  famous  give  me 
liberty  or  give  me  death'  speech.  The  verger  is  in  attendance  to  show 
the  church  and  sell  photographs,  canes  made  of  the  sycamore  winch 
overshadowed  the  above-mentioned  pew,  etc. 

Twenty-eighth  St.,  1/4  M.  farther  on,  leads  to  the  right  to  Marshall 
Square,  on  Libby  Hill  (Pi.  P,  2),  emhellished  with  a Monument  to 
the  Private.  Soldier  and  Sailor  of  the  Confederacy  (good  fiewj. 

A little  farther  out  is  Chimborazo  Park.  About  1 M.  to  the  R-E.  is 
Oakwood  Cemetery,  the  largest  Confederate  cemetery  in  the  South,  where 
18,000  Confederate  soldiers  are  interred. 


From  Libby  Hill  we  may  descend  to  Main  St.  and  follow  it  to 
the  left,  between  tobacco  warehouses  and  factories,  to  20tb  St.  In 
20tb  St.,  to  the  left,  at  the  cor.  of  Cary  St.,  close  to  the  railway  and 
the  canal , is  an  ice-bouse  wMcb  occupies  the  site  of  the  famous 
Ulhp  Prison  (PL  E,  2,  3),  removed  to  Chicago  in  1889.  — In 
Main  St.  (N.  side,  near  20th  St.)  is  the  Old  Stone  House  {PI. 
E,  2),  the  oldest  building  in  Richmond,  said  to  date  from  173  (. 
The  Post  Office  (PL  C,  2),  between  10th  & 11th  Sts.,  to  the  right, 
was  one  of  the  few  buildings  in  this  part  of  the  city  that  escaped 
the  fire  of  1865  (p,  409).  — At  7th  St.  we  may  diverge  to  the  left 
to  visit  the  Allen  ^ Ginter  Cigarette  Works  (PL  C,  o;  see  p.  409), 
at  the  corner  of  Cary  St.  At  the  corner  of  Main  St.  and  5th  St.,^  to 
the  left,  stood  (till  1891)  the  large  red  brick  Allan  House,  in  which 
Edgar  Allan  Poe  spent  his  boyhood  with  his  foster-father,  Mr.  John 


Bollywood  Cemetery,  RICHMOND. 


65.  Route.  411 


Allan.  Fourtli  St.  leads  to  the  left  from  Main  St.  to  Oamhle's  Hill 
Park  (PL  B,  3) , which  commands  a *View  of  the  river,  with  its 
numerous  falls  and  islands.  Below  lie  the  great  Tredegar  Iron 
Works,  where  most  of  the  cannon  of  the  Confederate  Government 
were  made.  To  the  N.W.  of  the  park  is  the  State  Penitentiary 
(PL  B,  3).  Passing  the  Penitentiary  we  come  (10  min.  more)  to  the 
entrance  to  *HolIywood  Cemetery  (PL  A,  4). 

Near  the  W.  gate  of  the  Cemetery  is  the  Confederate  Monument,  a rude 
pyramid  of  stone  90  ft,  high,  erected  as  a memorial  to  the  16,000  Confed- 
erate soldiers  buried  here.  On  PresidenVs  Hill,  in  the  S.W.  corner  of  the 
cemetery , overlooking  the  river,  are  the  graves  of  Monroe  (1758-1831)  and 
Tyler  (1790-1862^  no  monument),  two  of  the  seven  Presidents  born  in  Vir- 
ginia (‘Mother  of  Presidents’).  John  Randolph  (1733-1837)  of  Roanoke,  Jef- 
ferson Davis  (d.  1889),  Major-General  Pickett  (d.  1875 ^ p.  293),  Gen.  J.  E. 
B.  Stuart  (1833-64),  and  Commodore  Maury  (1830-71)  are  also  interred  here. 
A good  view  is  obtained  of  Belle  Isle,  which  was  a prison-camp  during 
the  war.  — To  the  W.  of  Hollywood  are  the  Riverside  and  Mt.  Calvary 
Cemeteries  and  (3/4  M.)  the  Hew  Reservoir  Park. 

In  the  meantime,  however,  we  leave  the  cemetery  by  its  W.  gate 
and  proceed  to  the  right  (tramway),  through  a poor  district,  to 
(V2  M*)  Avenue,  at  the  beginning  of  which,  in  Monroe  Park 
(PI*  A,  2),  is  a Statue  of  Gen.  Wickham  (1820-88),  by  Valentine. 
Three  blocks  to  the  W.  of  this  statue  is  Howitzer  Place,  containing 
the  Monument  to  the  Richmond  Howitzers.  We  follow  Park  Ave.  to 
the  left  for  1/2  M.  more,  when  we  come  in  sight  of  the  equestrian 
*Statue  of  General  Lee,  by  Mercie  (1890),  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
monuments  in  the  United  States.  Adjacent,  to  the  E.,  is  Richmond 
College,  and  V2“^/4  to  the  W,  are  the  Exposition  Buildings  (in  the 
State  Fair  Grounds^  and  the  Soldiers'  Home. 

We  may  now  return  to  the  centre  of  the  city  by  Franklin  St. 
(tramway),  No.  707  in  which  was  the  home  of  General  Lee  (1807- 
1870)  and  now  contains  the  collection  of  the  Virginia  Historical 
Society  (PL  C,  2).  — At  the  corner  of  11th  and  Clay  Sts.,  near  the 
Davis  Mansion  (p.  410),  is  the  Valentine  Museum  (PL"C,  1),  con- 
taining local  antiquities,  casts,  autographs,  engravings,  specimens 
of  early  printing,  drawings,  and  oil-paintings.  In  this  house,  which 
is  a good  example  of  an  ‘ante  helium’  Virginian  home,  Aaron  Burr 
(p.  409)  was  entertained  during  his  trial  for  treason. 

Among  other  points  of  interest  in  Richmond  are  the  Westmore- 
land Club  (PL  B,  C,  2),  at  the  cor.  of  Grace  and  6th  Sts. ; the  Com- 
monwealth Club  (PL  A,  2),  at  the  cor.  of  Franklin  and  Madison  Sts. ; 
the  Virginia  Club,  2311  East  Grace  St.;  Chief  Justice  Marshall's 
House,  at  the  cor.  of  9th  and  Marshall  Sts.  (PL  C,  2) ; the  Tobacco 
Exchange,  ShockoeSlip;  the  University  College  of  Medicine  lm.C,iy, 
the  Medical  College  of  Virginia  (PL  D,  2) ; the  National  Cemetery, 
2 M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  city  (6540  graves) ; and  the  Sheltering  Arms 
Hospital. 

Battlefields  round  Richmond.  During  the  last  three  years  of  the  Civil 
War  (186^-65)  battles  raged  all  round  Richmond , and  remains  of  the  for- 
tified lines  constructed  to  protect  the  city  are  visible  in  various  parts  of 
the  environs.  Both  the  inner  and  outer  fortifications  may  be  seen  from 


412  Route  65. 


EICHMOND. 


the  *Brook  Road,  which  leads  to  the  Lakeside  Club  House.,  with  its  golf 
links,  bowling  alleys,  and  boating  lake.  Probably  the  best  plan  for  the 
stranger  is  to  hire  a carriage  with  an  intelligent  driver  and  spend  a day 
\'isiting  the  scenes  of  the  principal  battles.  Guides  may  be  obtained  at  the 
hotels.  An  electric  tramway  (fare  5 c.)  runs  every  40  min.  from  the  corner 
of  P St.  and  29th  St.  (beyond  PI.  E,  1)  to  (7  M.)  S&oen  Pines  (see  below),  where 
several  intrenchments  and  earthworks  may  be  seen  near  the  terminus  of  the 
line.  — The  chief  direct  attack  on  Richmond  was  made  on  May  15th,  1862, 
when  the  Union  fleet  attempted,  without  success,  to  force  its  way  past  the 
batteries  at  Brewry  Bluff.,  on  the  James  River,  7 M.  below  the  city  (easily 
visited  by  steamer,  see  p.  413).  Simultaneously  Gen.  McClellan  advanced 
with  the  land-forces  up  the  peninsula  between  the  York  and  James  Rivers 
and  invested  Richmond  on  the  E.  and  N.  This  led  to  the  hardly-contested 
but  indecisive  battle  of  Seven  Pines  or  Fair  Oaks  (May  31st,  1862),  in  which 
the  Confederates  under  Gen.  Joseph  E.  Johnston  attacked  McClellan’s  left 
wing,  to  the  S.  of  the  ChickaJiominy . Large  cemeteries  and  a park  now  mark  the 
spot.  The  district  is  swampy,  and  McClellan  lost  more  men  by  pestilence  than 
in  fighting.  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee  now  assumed  command  of  the  Confederate 
forces  and  made  an  attempt,  in  combination  with  Gen.  Stonewall  Jackson, 
to  overwhelm  McClellan’s  right  wing,  which  was  posted  at  Mechanicsville., 
on  the  Chickahominy,  5V2  M.  to  the  N.  of  Richmond,  and  thus  began  the 
famous  Seven  Days’  Battle  (June  26th-July  2nd,  1862).  Mechanicsville  was 
followed  by  the  battles  of  Oaines  Mill.,  Cold  Harbor.,  Savage's  Station,  Frazier's 
Farm,  and  Malvern  Hill.  The  upshot  of  this  series  of  contests,  in  which  40,000 
men  fell,  was  the  relief  of  Richmond,  as  the  Union  troops  were  compelled 
to  retreat  to  Malvern  Hill , 15  M.  to  the  S.E. , where  they  repelled  the 
Confederates  in  their  last  attack  but  soon  after  withdrew  to  Harrison'^s 
Landing , on  the  James  River.  During  1863  there  were  no  direct  attacks 
on  Richmond.  In  May,  1864,  Gen.  Ulysses  S.  Grant  came  down  through 
the  ‘Wilderness’  (see  p.  408),  attacked  Lee  in  his  entrenched  position  at 
Cold  Harbor  (June  3rd,  1864),  and  lost  15,000  men  without  making  much 
impression  on  the  enemy.  He  then  transferred  his  army  to  the  S.  side  of 
the  James;  and  the  later  stages  of  the  war  were  rather  a siege  of  Peters- 
burg than  of  Richmond  (see  p.  416).  Gen.  Butler  captured  Fort  Harrison 
opposite  Drewry  Bluff,  in  Sept.,  1864.  — Yellow  Tavern,  the  place  of  Genera, 
J.  E.  B.  Stuart’s  death,  is  situated  about  5 M.  to  the  N.W.  of  the  cityi 

From  Richmond  to  West  Point  and  Yorktown,  65  M,  ; railway  to 
(39  M.)  West  Point  in  1V4-23/4  hrs.  and  steamer  thence  to  (26  M.)  Yorktown 
in  13/4  hr.  (through-fare  $ IV2).  The  tradn  runs  to  the  E.,  passing  some  of 
the  battlefields  of  the  Civil  War.  Beyond  (7  M.)  Fair  Oaks  (see  above) 
it  crosses  the  Chickahominy.  39  M.  West  Point  (Terminal  Hotel,  $ 2-4),  with 
1300  inhab. , lies  at  the  head  of  navigation  of  the  York  River,  and  we  are 
here  transferred  to  the  steamer  of  the  Chesapeake  Steamship  Co.  The  trip 
down  the  river  is  pretty.  The  intermediate  stops  are  Allmonds  and  Clay 
Bank.  — 65  M.  Yorktown  {Bayview  Ho.,  $2-272*,  Yorktown  Ho.,  $172-2),  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  river,  10  M.  above  its  mouth,  is  memorable  for  the 
surrender  of  the  British  army  under  Lord  Cornwallis  on  Oct.  19th,  1781, 
forming  the  final  scene  of  the  War  of  Independence.  Remains  of  British  in- 
trenchments are  still  visible,  and  a monument  commemorates  the  surrender. 
Among  the  old  buildings  are  the  Nelson  House  (where  the  surrender  was 
signed)  and  the  Custom  House  (the  oldest  in  the  country).  — From  Yorktown 
the  steamer  ascends  Chesapeake  Bay  to  Baltimore  (p.  301). 

From  Richmond  to  Old  Point  Comfort,  see  R.  66;  to  Charleston,  see 
R.  70;  to  Savannah,  see  R.  73. 


66.  From  Richmond  to  Norfolk  and  Old  Point  Comfort, 

a.  By  Steamer. 

Steamer  down  the  James  River  to  Norfolk  and  Old  Point  Comfort 
(120  M.)  in  10  hrs.  (fare  $172).  This  is  a pleasant  and  interesting  trip. 
The  steamers  of  the  Virginia  Navigation  Go.  start  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  & Frid.  at 
7 a.m.  and  run  to  Newport  News,  Old  Point  Comfort,  and  Norfolk.  Those 


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of  the  Old  Dominion  Co.  leave  daily  at  7 p.m.,  connecting  at  Norfolk  with 
steamers  of  the  same  line  for  New  York. 

Richmond^  see  R.  65.  The  course  of  the  James  River  is  very  cir- 
cuitous and  the  direct  distance  from  Richmond  to  its  mouth  is  only 
about  74  M.  The  water  is  of  a muddy  brown  colour,  telling  of  the 
rich  tobacco-growing  soil  through  which  it  flows.  Its  ancient  name 
was  Powhatan  (comp.  p.  409). 

Just  below  Richmond,  on  the  left  bank,  is  the  site  of  Powhatan’s 
home,  where  Pocahontas  is  said  to  have  saved  the  life  of  Capt.  John 
Smith  (see  below).  Warwick  Park  here  is  a popular  resort.  — 
Farther  on,  on  both  banks,  are  earthworks  of  the  Civil  War. 

8 M.  (r.)  Drewry  Bluif  (120  ft.),  with  remains  of  the  old  for- 
tifications (Fort  Darling;  see  p.  412).  — 81/2  M.  (1.)  Chaffin  Bluff, 
behind  which  lay  Fort  Harrison  (p.  412).  — 1372  M.  The  Dutch  Gap 
Canal,  constructed  by  Gen.  Butler  to  avoid  the  Hewlett  House 
Batteries,  saves  a detour  of  51/2  M.  — 141/4  M.  (1.)  Varina  was  the 
home  of  Pocahontas  and  her  husband  JohnRolfe.  — I5V4M.  Meadow- 
ville  (r,),  with  rich  marshland  reclaimed  by  dykes  and  pumping.  — 
20  M.  Curie’s  Neck  (1.) , with  a fine  modern  house  in  the  Colonial 
style.  — 21  M.  Presque  Isle  (r.).  — 22  M.  Pickett’s,  at  the  foot  of 
Malvern  Hill  (p.  412)  on  Turkey  Island  Bend.  — 29  M.  (1.)  Shirley, 
a plantation  still  owned  by  the  Carters  (here  pron.  ^Cyarter’),  one 
of  the  ‘F.F.Y.’  (first  families  of  Virginia).  Farther  on  (right)  are 
the  lowlands  of  Bermuda  Hundred,  where,  in  Grant’s  significant 
phrase,  Gen.  Butler  was  ‘bottled  up’. 

3172  M.  (r.)  City  Point,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Appomattox  River 
house  of  Dr.  Epps,  the  headquarters  of  Grant  in 
1864-65.  City  Point  is  9 M.  from  Petersburg  (p.  416  j railway).  >— 
3772  M.  Berkeley  (1.),  with  Harrisons  Landing  (p.  412),  was  the 
birthplace  of  the  first  President  Harrison  (1773-1841).  Opposite  is 
Jordan  s Lighthouse.  — 3874  (!•)  Westover,  the  former  home  of 

the  Byrds  and  Seldens,  is,  perhaps,  the  finest  old  Colonial  mansion 
on  the  James  (comp.  p.  xci).  — 40  M.  Blair’s  (r.).  42  M. 

Willcox  Landing  (1.),  a fishing  village,  sends  sturgeon  roe  to  Russia  to 
be  made  into  caviar.  ~ 44  M.  Weyanoke  (1.).  46  M.  (r.)  Fort  Pow- 

toan,  a relic  of  the  war  of  1812.  — 51  M.  Sturgeon  Point.  — 
0272  M.  Oldfield.  — 54  M Brandon  (r.)  and  (56  M.)  Claremont  (r.) 
are  good  examples  of  Colonial  houses;  the  latter  is  made  of  English 
bricks,  said  to  be  a reproduction  of  the  royal  mansion  of  the  same 
name  near  Esher,  in  England.  — Below  (59  M.)  Sandy  Point,  the 
Chickahominy  (p.  412)  joins  the  James. 

68  M.  (l.)  Jamestown,  the  earliest  English  settlement  in  America, 
founded  in  1607  by  Capt.  John  Smith  and  Christopher  Newport.  The 
only  remains  of  the  ancient  town  are  the  tower  of  a ruined  church 
(^in  which  Pocahontas  was  married)  and  a few  tombstones.  The  river 
here  expands  into  a wide  estuary.  Fleets  of  oyster-boats  are  seen. 

A coach  runs  hence  to  (7  M.)  Williamsburg  (p.  415), 


414  Boute  66, 


NORFOLK. 


From  Richmond 


69^2  Scotland  (r.),  the  landing  for  Surry  Court  House  and  the 
terminus  of  the  Surry,  Sussex,  & Southampton  Railway. 

76  M.  Homewood^  known  a few  years  ago  as  the  uncultivated  Hog 
Island^  is  now  a successful  agricultural  village. — 85Y2M.  Fergusson  s. 

100  M.  Newport  News  (Hotel  Warwick^  $2^2"^?  Brit,  vice- 
consul,  Mr.  James  Haughton)  ^ a flourishing  little  city,  with  19,635 
irihab.,  large  grain  elevators,  coal  wharves,  shipbuilding  yards  (new 
dry-dock  860  ft.  long),  and  iron- works.  The  value  of  its  exports  in 
1903  was  $20,521,000.  An  electric  tramway  runs  hence  to  Hampton 
and  Old  Point  Comfort  (p.  415).  Steamers  ply  to  London,  Liver- 
pool, Rotterdam,  and  many  other  ports.  — We  now  enter  Hampton 
Roads,  one  of  the  best  harbours  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  It  was  in 
these  roads  that  the  Confederate  iron-clad  Virginia  (the  old  Merri^ 
mac)  nearly  annihilated  the  wooden  fleet  of  the  Union,  until  it  was 
itself  disabled  by  the  opportune  arrival  from  New  York  of  the  famous 
turret-ship  Monitor  built  by  Ericsson  (p.  30). 

108  M.  Old  Point  Comfort  and  Fort  Monroe,  see  p.  415.  To 
the  N.  (left)  opens  Chesapeake  Bay  (p.  306).  — To  reach  Norfolk  the 
steamer  ascends  the  Elizabeth  River,  an  arm  of  Chesapeake  Bay. 

120  M.  Norfolk  (Monticello,  from  $ 3,  R.  from  $ 1 restaurant 

on  5th  floor,  good  view;  New  Atlantic,  Main  St.,  $2Y2"4;  Neddo, 
small  and  good,  from  $2^2?  from  $1;  Norfolk,  R.  from  $ 1 ; 
New  Gladstone,  $ 2-2 V2;  Lrit.  vice-consul,  Mr.  Barton  Meyers),  vfith. 
46,624  inhab.,  the  second  city  of  Virginia  and  excelled  by  Savannah 
alone  among  the  Atlantic  ports  to  the  S.  of  Chesapeake  Bay,  was 
founded  in  1682.  The  staples  of  its  busy  export-trade  are  cotton, 
coal,  oysters,  and  early  fruits  and  vegetables  (strawberries,  ‘goubers’ 
or  pea-nuts,  etc.).  The  city  is  irregularly  laid  out  but  contains  some 
pleasant  residence-ctuarters.  St.  Paul's  Church,  dating  from  1730, 
was  struck  by  a British  cannon-ball  in  1776,  but  the  one  now  resting 
in  the  indentation  is  not  the  original.  The  churchyard  contains  many 
old  gravestones,  and  in  the  wall  of  the  church  is  one  from  Weyanoke 
(p.  413),  on  the  James  River,  dated  lOSi/g-  ^ 

On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Elizabeth  (ferry,  electric  car  to  Navy  Yard, 
5 c.)  lies  Portsmouth  (Hotel  Monroe),  a city  of  17,427 inhab.,  with  am  excellent 
harbour.  At  Gosport,  the  S.  end  of  Portsmouth,  is  the  Navy  Yard  (open  8-0), 
the  most  important  in  the  country,  with  a huge  dry-dock  and  some  m- 
teresting  relics  of  the  wars  with  Spain  (1898),  China 
(1846)  To  the  N.  is  a large  Naval  Hospital.  — A branch  of  the  Seaboard 
Air  Line  runs  hence  viS,  (79  M.)  Weldon  (where  it  intersects  the  Atlantic 
Coa<?t  Line  T)  426)  to  (426  M.)  Norlina,  on  the  mam  line  (see  p. 

From  Norfolk  a short  branch-railway  (fare  25  c.;  station  2 M.  from  the 
town)  and  an  electric  tramway  (hourly;  same  fare)  run  to  (18  M.) 

Beach  (Princess  Anne  Hotel,  $3-5),  a seaside-resort  on  the  Atlantic  coast, 
surrounded  by  pine-forest.  — An  electric  car  ( Old  Point  Comfort  Express  ) 
leaves  Main  St.  Lurly  for  Ocean  (Hotel,  $ 3),  connecting  with^^ 
to  Old  Point  Comfort  (through-fare  25  c.).  — The  Dismal  ^^amp  (see  P.  4 7) 
may  be  easily  visited  from  Norfolk.  - Currituck  Sound,  30  M.  the  S of 
Norfolk,  offers  splendid  wild-fowl  shooting.  — Steamers  ply  ^ S. w pS 
to  Old  hint  Comfort  (p.  415;  V2  lir. ; fare  25  c.),  Yorktown  and  West  Point 
(p.  412),  Richmond,  New  York,  Baltimore,  Washington,  etc. 


to  Old  Point  Comfort.  HAMPTON.  66.  Route.  415 


b.  Vi§.  Chesapeake  & Ohio  Kailroad. 

Railway  to  (85  M.)  Old  Point  Comfort  in  23/4-81/2  hrs.  (fare  $ 2.50).  Steam 
Ferkt  from  (75  M.)  Newport  News  to  (12  M.)  Norfolk  in  1 hr.  (through- 
fare  $2.50). 

Richmond,  see  p.408.  The  train  runs  to  the  S.E.,  down  the  pen- 
insula between  the  York  River  and  the  James  River,  a flat  region 
of  swamps  and  pine-forest.  We  skirt  the  Chickahominy  Swamp 
(p.  412)  and  cross  that  river  near  (18  M.)  Roxhury.  24  M.  Provi- 
dence Forge.  — 48  M.  Williamsburg  (Colonial  Inn,  $21/2),  the  ancient 
capital  of  Virginia,  a place  of  2044  inhah. , with  a church  of  1678, 
a magazine  of  1741,  and  other  venerable  relics  (memorial  tablets). 

The  old  College  of  William  and  Mary,  chartered  in  1693,  was  the  earliest 
college  in  the  New  World  after  Harvard  (p.  112)  and  has  been  the  Alma 
Mater  of  17  governors,  12  cabinet  ministers,  1 chief  justice,  and  3 Presidents 
of  the  United  States.  Some  of  the  buildings  have  been  more  or  less 
modernized.  The  library  contains  many  interesting  relics.  In  the  quiet 
‘campus’  is  an  old  statue  of  Lord  Botetourt. 

75  M.  Newport  News,  see  p.  414.  Steam  ferry  to  Norfolk  (p.  414), 
see  above. 

78  M.  Hampton  [New  Augusta  Hotel,  from  $2)  is  a pleasant 
little  town  with  2764  inhah.  Close  by  are  a National  Soldiers’’  Home 
(4000  inmates)  and  the  * Normal  and  Agricultural  Institute  for  Ne- 
groes and  Indians,  founded  by  Gen.  S.  0.  Armstrong  in  1868. 

A visit  to  the  latter  is  of  special  interest.  The  institute  is  attended 
by  1100  Negroes  and  100  Indians,  of  whom  the  former  pay  part  of 
their  expenses  by  working.  The  chief  aim  of  the  institute  is  to  train 
teachers  for  the  coloured  schools,  and  in  this,  as  well  as  in  the  education 
of  the  Indians,  its  success  has  been  highly  satisfactory.  Visitors  are  wel- 
come to  the  classes,  parade,  dinner,  etc.  (specimens  of  pupil’s  work  for 
sale).  Hampton  also  contains  a National  Cemetery  (5000  graves),  and  the 
Church  of  St.  John,  built  in  1660  with  English  bricks  (tower  modern).  It  is 
connected  with  (3  M.)  Old  Point  Comfort  by  a fine  shell  road  and  an  electric 
tramway.  Tramway  to  Newport  News,  see  p.  M4. 

The  train  now  crosses  an  arm  of  Hampton  Roads  and  reaches  — 

85  M.  Old  Point  Comfort  or  Fort  Monroe  (*Hotel  Chamberlin, 
close  to  the  sea,  with  470  bedrooms,  from  $5  in  winter  and  $ 3 in 
summer ; Sherwood,  $ 2-3),  consisting  mainly  of  a huge  hotel,  the  most 
elaborate  fortification  in  the  United  States,  and  a group  of  cottages, 
and  situated  on  a small  peninsula  on  the  N.  side  of  the  entrance  to 
Hampton  Roads  (p.  414),  with  the  Atlantic  Ocean  in  front  and 
Chesapeake  Bay  (p.  306)  opening  to  the  N. 

Point  Comfort  received  its  name  from  Capt.  John  Smith  in  1608  and 
has  long  been  a favourite  seaside-resort,  frequented  by  the  Northerners 
in  winter  and  by  the  Southerners  in  summer.  The  Hygeia  Hotel,  which  was 
originally  founded  in  1821,  and  grew  to  be  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
popular  houses  in  the  country,  has  recently  been  removed  to  make  room 
for  the  extension  of  the  fortifications,  but  the  more  modern  Chamberlin  is  a 
worthy  successor.  The  immediate  proximity  of  Fort  Monroe,  with  its  large 
garrison,  adds  a characleristic  feature  to  the  gaiety  of  the  place.  Good 
bathing,  boating,  golf,  and  ‘crabbing’  are  among  the  attractions,  and  the 
H(  tel  Chamberlin  has  a shooting-preserve  of  10,(00  acres  on  the  Chicka- 
hominy River  (quail,  duck  wild  turkey,  woodcock,  snipe,  and  ‘sora’  or  rail  5 


416  Route  66. 


PETERSBURG. 


railway  retnrn-fare  $1.75,  guide  $1.50  per  day,  with  dogs  $2:  shooting 
license  $ 10).  In  winter  the  temperature  rarely  falls  below  40'’  and  in 
summer  it  seldom  exceeds  80°.  ' 

.r,  Mrfolk  0/2  hr.-,  25c.),  Baltimore,  Richmond 

(R.  66a;  fare  $172),  Washington,  and  New  York  (Old  Dominion  Line  in 
24  hrs.).  Norfolk  is  also  reached  by  ferry  to  Willoughby  Spit  and  electric 
car  thence  (through-fare  35  c.).  — Electric  line  to  Hampton  and  Newport 
News  (1  hr.),  see  pp.  415,  414.  Another  electric  tramway  runs  to  (2V2  M.) 
Buckrow  Beach,  with  a new  summer-hotel. 

*rort  Monroe,  100  yds.  from  the  Chamberlin  Hotel,  was  con- 
structed in  1819  et  seq.  to  command  the  mouth  of  the  James  River 
and  the  approach  to  the  Norfolk  Navy  Yard  and  to  furnish  a base  of 
operations  against  a hostile  fleet  attempting  to  enter  Chesapeake 
Bay.  The  ramparts  are  about  2 M.  in  circumference,  affording  a fine 
walk,  and  enclose  an  area  of  80  acres , which  resembles  a beautiful 
park.  Outside  the  ramparts  is  a broad  moat.  Guard  - mounting 
and  dress -parade  are  great  attractions  to  the  visitor.  The  fort 
is  garrisoned  by  a battalion  of  heavy  artillery  and  is  the  seat  of 
the  Artillery  School  of  the  U.  S.  Army.  It  contains  a museum 
of  military  relics.  Jefferson  Davis  was  confined  here  for  a year 
and  a half  after  the  Civil  War,  and  then  released  without  a trial. 
Off-shore  is  the  low  island  of  the  Rip-Raps,  almost  covered  by  the 
works  of  Fort  Wool. 

Pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  from  Old  Point  Comfort  to  Norfolk 
(p.  414),  Hampton  (3  M.),  Newport  News  (p.  4l4),  etc.  The  steamer  ‘Mobjack’ 
leaving  Norfolk  in  the  early  morning  and  calling  at  Old  Point  Comfort 
1 hr.  later,  makes  a pleasant  all-day  excursion  to  points  on  Mobja^'k  Bay 
(fare  $1;  meals  a la  carte). 


c.  Vi^  Norfolk  & Western  Railway. 

110  M.  Railway  to  (104  M.)  Norfolk  in  21/4-31/3  hrs.  (fare  $2.50). 
Steamer  thence  to  (6  M.)  Old  Point  Comfort  in  1/2  hr.  (fare  25  c.).  — 
This  railway  traverses  the  seat  of  the  final  struggles  of  the  Civil  War 
(see  below). 

Richmond,  see  p.  408.  — 8 M.  Drewry  Bluff  {p.  413);  13  M. 
Chester. 

23  M.  Petersburg  (Chesterfield  Ho.,  $3;  Imperial,  Shirley, 
$2-3;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a manufacturing  town  of  21,810  inhah., 
on  the  Appomattox,  is  of  interest  as  the  centre  of  the  final  operations 
of  the  Civil  War.  The  ivy-clad  ruins  of  the  old  Blandford  Church 
are  picturesque.  A large  stone  bowl,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  railway- 
bridge  over  the  Appomattox,  is  known  as  ‘Pocahontas’  Wash  Basin’. 

Battlefields.  When  Grant  crossed  to  the  S.  side  of  the  James  River 
in  June,  1864  (comp.  p.  412),  he  made  City  Point  his  base  of  supplies  and 
spread  his  lines  towards  the  W.,  so  as  to  shut  up  Lee  and  his  Confederate 
forces  in  Petersburg.  The  so-called  Siege  of  Petersburg  lasted  from  June 
16th,  1864,  to  April  2nd,  1865;  and  during  its  continuance  13  pitched  battles 
were  fought  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  intrenchments  of  Lee  and  Grant 
still  form  conspicuous  features  in  the  landscape;  Grant’s  lines  extended 
from  the  Appomattox  to  Fort  Fisher,  and  thence  E.  to  Fort  Bross , a dis- 
tance of  23  M.  One  of  the  best-known  engagements  was  that  of  the  Old 
Crater,  to  the  E.  of  the  city,  on  Griffith''s  Farm,  where  a small  museum 
of  war-relics  is  shown.  Carriages  ($1-1V2  per  hr.)  and  saddle-horses  to 


MANASSAS.  67.  Route.  417 

visit  the  entrenchments  and  battlefields  may  be  hired  at  the  Petersburg 
hotels,  and  guides  may  also  be  obtained. 

Petersburg  was  also  the  scene  of  important  military  operations  in  the 
War  of  Independence  (1781). 

From  Petersburg  a branch-line  runs  to  (123  M.)  Lynchburg^  on  the 
main  line  of  the  railway  (see  below),  passing  (100  M.)  Appomattox,  near 
which,  at  Appomattox  Court  House,  the  Civil  War  ended  on  April  9th 
1865,  in  the  surrender  of  Gen.  Lee  and  his  forces  to  Gen.  Grant.  ’ 

We  now  traverse  a district  of  pine-forest.  36  M.  Disputanta; 
42  M.  Waverly ; 50  M.  Wakefield ; 67  M.  Windsor.  Farther  on  the 
train  skirts  the  N.  margin  of  the  Great  Dismal  Swamp,  which  may 
be  visited  from  (79  M.)  Suffolk  (55  ft.),  at  the  head  of  the  Nanse- 
mond  River. 

The  Dismal  Swamp , 40  M.  long  and  35  M.  wide , is  intersected  by 
canals  (the  chief  one,  22  M.  long,  connecting  Chesapeake  Bay  with 
Albemarle  Sound)  and  yields  a large  quantity  of  cypress,  juniper,  and  other 
timber.  At  Sufifolk  we  may  hire  a man  and  a canoe  to  paddle  us  as  far 
as  (10  M.)  Lake  Drummond  and  back  by  the  Jericho  Run  Canal,  a novel 
and  interesting  trip. 

104  M.  Norfolk,  see  p.  414.  ~ Thence  to  (110  M.)  Old  Point 
Comfort,  see  p.  415. 


67.  From  Washington  to  New  Orleans. 

a.  Vi&  Southern  Railway  and  Atlanta. 

1144  M.  Railway  in  32-36  hrs.  (fare  $27.50;  sleeper  $6.50).  Through 
vestibuled  train  (resembling  that  described  at  p.  342)  from  New  York  to 
New  Orleans  in  39  hrs.  (fare  $34;  sleeper  $8). 

From  Washington  (p.  309)  the  line  runs  at  first  towards  the  S.W. 
Numerous  earth  works  and  rifle-pits,  grim  mementoes  of  the  Civil 
War,  catch  the  practised  eye  on  both  sides  of  the  line.  7 M.  Alexan- 
dria (p.  325).  — To  the  left  lies  the  National  Cemetery  (p.  325).  — 
33  M.  Manassas  (315  ft.;  Manassas  Ho.,  $2)  was  the  scene  of  two 
battles  during  the  Civil  War  (monument  to  the  right). 

In  the  fiTSi  Battle  of  Manassas  ov  Bull  Run  (July  21st,  1861),  which  was 
the  first  important  conflict  of  the  war,  the  Federals  under  McDowell  were 
routed  by  the  Confederates  under  Beauregard  and  thrown  back  on  Wash- 
ington. In  the  second  battle  (Aug.  29-30th,  1862),  fought  on  almost  the 
same  ground,  3 M.  to  the  right,  Lee  defeated  the  Federals  under  Pope. 

At  (57  M.)  Remington  we  cross  the  North  Fork.  68  M.  Culpeper 
(Fairfax,  Waverly,  from  $2)  was  an  important  point  during 
the  Civil  War  and  is  now  the  site  of  a National  Cemetery.  The 
Rapidan  River,  which  we  cross  at  (79  M.)  Rapidan,  was  another 
name  frequently  heard  during  the  struggle  in  Virginia.  85  M. 
Orange.  At  (113  M.)  Charlottesville  (p.  380;  Rail.  Restaurant) 
we  intersect  the  C.  & 0.  R.  R.  (R.  57b).  We  continue  to  run  thence 
towards  the  S.W.,  with  the  Blue  Ridge  at  some  distance  to  the  right. 
173  M.  Lynchburg  (525  ft.;  Carroll,  $31/2-472  5 Arlington;  Rail. 
Restaurant),  an  industrial  and  tobacco-exporting  city  of  18,891  iii- 
hab.,  picturesquely  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  James.  We  here 
intersect  the  Norfolk  & Western  R.  R.  (see  above).  Farther  on  we 

Baedekek's  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  27 


418  Route  67. 


CHARLOTTE. 


From  Washington 


cross  several  streams  and  pass  numerous  small  stations.  — 239  M. 
Danville  (420  ft. ; Burton^  $ 2l/2"3  V2;  Bestaurant)^  a busy  town 
of  16,520  inbab.,  in  the  centre  of  a tobacco-gro^vdng  region,  is  tbe 
junction  of  tbe  line  from  Richmond  (p.  408). 

A little  beyond  Danville  we  enter  ISorth  Carolina  (‘Old  North 
State’).  — 287  M.  Greensboro  (840  ft.;  Benbow^  from  $2^25  Gull- 
fordj  from  $ 2),  a growing  town  of  10,035  inbab.,  with  a trade  in 
tobacco,  coal,  and  iron. 

From  Greensboro  to  Raleigh  and  Goldsboro,  130  M.,  railway  in 
5-8V3  hrs.  This  line  passes  through  a cotton  and  tobacco  growing  country. 
— 17  M.  Flo7i  College;  22  M.  Burliagton ^ with  cotton-mills.  — 47  M.  Uni- 
versity is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (10  M.)  Chapel  Hill^  the  site  of 
the  University  of  North  Carolina,  founded  in  1795  (600  students).  — 55  M. 
Durham  {Carolina^  $ 2V2-4),  a city  of  6679  inhab.,  is  one  of  the  chief  tobacco- 
making places  in  America.  Duke's  Factory  produces  250  million  cigarettes 
annually.  Trinity  College  (375  students)  has  been  handsomely  endowed  by 
the  tobacco  magnates,  Col.  Duke  and  Col.  Carr.  — At  (81  M.)  Raleigh 
(p  427)  we  intersect  the  Seaboard  Air  Line  (R.  67  c).  — 109  M Selma  is  the 
junction  of  the  line  to  Norfolk  (see  below).  — 130  M.  Goldsboro  (100  ft.; 
Hotel  Kennon,  $2'/2-3),  a small  place  with  5877  inhab.,  is  connected  by 
railway  with  (59  M.)  New  Bern  {Hazleton^  Chattawka^  32-272),  at  the  mouth 
of  Neuse  River,  and  (95  M.)  MoreJiead,  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

From  Greensboro  to  Norfolk,  266  M.,  railway  in  IO72  hrs.  — From 
Greensboro  to  (10)  M.)  Selma , see  above.  Our  line  here  diverges  to  the 
left  from  that  to  Goldsboro  and  runs  towards  the  N.  134  M.  Wilson.  At 
(1.50  M.)  South  Rocky  Mount  we  connect  with  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  (p.  434) 
and  cross  the  Tar  or  Pamlico  River.  166  M.  Tarboro;  178  M.  Hohgood; 
192  M.  Kelford;  208  M.  Ahoskey ; 246  M.  Suffolk  (p.  417);  260  M.  Bruce; 
264  M.  Pinner's  Point.  — 266  M.  Norfolk,  see  p.  414. 

A line  also  runs  from  Greensboro,  via  Fayetteville,  to  (179  M.)  Wilm- 
ington (p.  434). 

Just  beyond  Greensboro,  to  tbe  right,  is  tbe  battlefield  of  Guil- 
ford Court  House  (Mar.  15tb,  1781),  where  tbe  British  under  Corn- 
wallis defeated  the  Americans  under  Greene.  — We  traverse  many 
cotton -fields.  Near  Salisbury  we  cross  tbe  Yadkin.  — 336  M. 
Salisbury  (760  ft;  Central,  Mt.  Vernon,  from  $2),  with  6277  in- 
bab., was  tbe  seat  of  one  of  tbe  chief  Confederate  prisons  in  tbe 
Civil  War,  and  tbe  National  Cemetery  contains  tbe  graves  of  more 
than  12,000  soldiers  who  died  here  in  captivity. 

From  Salisbury  to  Asheville  and  Knoxville,  see  R.  69. 

Near  (380  M.)  Charlotte  (725  ft.;  Buford,  Central,  $2-31/2)5  with 
18,091  inbab.  and  important  cotton-manufactures,  are  some  gold 
mines.  It  is  tbe  junction  of  lines  to  Wilmington  (p.  434),  to  Columbia 
and  Charleston  (see  R.  70b),  etc.  — 408  M.  All  Healing  Springs. 
Near  (414  M.)  King^s  Mountain  (940  ft.)  tbe  Americans  defeated 
tbe  British  on  Oct.  7tb,  1780,  and  near  (447 M.)  Cowpens  is  tbe  scene 
of  a more  important  victory  of  tbe  patriots  (Jan.  17tb,  1781).  Tbe 
latter  is  in  South  Carolina  (‘Palmetto  State’). 

456  M.  Spartanburg  (790  ft.;  Spartan  Inn,  Argyle  Inn,  $ 11/2)7 
tbe  junction  of  lines  to  Columbia  (p.  435)  and  Asheville  (p.  431),  is 
a thriving  little  city  of  11,395  inbab.,  in  a district  of  iron  and  gold 
mines  and  mineral  springs.  ■ — 487  M.  Greenville  (975  ft.;  Man- 


to  Ntw  Orleans, 


ATLANTA. 


67.  Route.  419 


sion  Ho.,  $2-3),  a city  with  11,860  inhah.,  on  the  Reedy  River,  is 
the  junction  of  a line  to  Columbia  (p.  435).  — From  (527  M.)  Seneca 
(955  ft.)  the  Blue  Ridge  Railway  runs  to  (9  M.)  Walhalla^  the  nearest 
station  to  (ca.  25  M.)  Highlands  (3815  ft.;  Davis  Ho.,,  $2;  Highland 
Ho.,,  $ 21/2),  tlie  highest  village  to  the  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mts.,  frequented 
for  its  bracing  air  and  charming  scenery.  — Beyond  Seneca  we  cross 
the  Savannah  and  enter  Georgia  (‘Empire  State  of  the  South’).  About 
2 M.  from  (554  M.)  Toccoa  are  the  beautiful  Toccoa  Falls  (185  ft. 
high).  568  M.  Mt.  Airy  (1590  ft.;  Mt.  Airy  Inn,  $2^2)  affords  a 
fine  view  of  Yonah  Mt.  (3025  ft.)  and  the  Blue  Ridge.  — The  line 
now  descends,  — 570  M.  Cornelia  is  the  junction  of  a short  line  to 
(8  M.)  Clarksville  and  (21  M.)  Tallulah  Falls. 

Clarksville  (1480  ft. ; (Proves  ^0.,  Spencer  Ho.,  $2)  is  a convenient  point 
from  which  to  explore  the  fine  scenery  of  the  Georgia  portion  of  the  Blue 
Ridge  Mis.  — The  “"Tallulah  Falls  {Cliff  House  ^ Tallulah  Lodge,  $2-81/2), 
400  ft.  high,  lie  in  the  deep  gorge  of  the  Tallulah  or  Terrora,  which  here 
cuts  across  the  Blue  Ridge.  — Other  points  of  interest  in  this  district 
are  the  Valley  of  Nacoochee,  8-10  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Clarksville,  and  the 
Falls  of  the  Eastatoia,  15  M.  to  the  N.  of  Tallulah  Falls, 

From  (582  M.)  Lula  a branch-line  runs  to  (39  Athens  (p.  428). 
— 594  M.  Gainesville  (1230  ft.;  Arlington,  Mount  View,  $2),  a 
small  town  of  4382  inhab. ; 617  M.  Suwanee  (1030  ft.).  Farther  on 
Stone  Mt.  (1685  ft.),  a huge  mass  of  granite,  is  seen  to  the  left  (in 
the  distance). 

648  M.  Atlanta  (*  T/ie  Piedmont,  R.  from  $ I1/2;  The  Aragon; 
Kimball  Ho.,  $21/2-5,  R.  $ 11/2-^;  Majestic,  $2%  R.  from  $ II/2; 
Ballard,  from  $2,  R.  from  50  c.;  Rail.  Restaurant),  the  capital  of 
Georgia  (the  ‘Gate  City’),  with  89,872  inhab.,  is  a prosperous  com- 
mercial and  industrial  city,  and  an  important  railway-centre  (comp, 
pp.  426,  428,  442).  It  is  well  situated  1000-1100  ft.  above  the  sea, 
and  enjoys  a healthy  and  bracing  climate. 

The  chief  point  of  interest  in  the  history  of  Atlanta,  which  was 
founded  in  1840,  is  its  siege  and  capture  (Sept.  2nd,  1864)  by  Gen.  Sher- 
man, who,  after  holding  the  city  for  two  months,  here  began  his  famous 
‘March  to  the  Sea’  (comp.  p.  440).  The  business-quarter  was  previously 
burned  down,  by  design  or  by  accident,  but  has  been  rebuilt  on  a finer  and 
more  modern  plan.  The  great  staples  of  Atlanta’s  trade  are  tobacco  and 
cotton.  Among  its  industrial  products  are  cotton,  fertilizers,  furniture, 
patent  medicines,  car-wheels,  flour,  and  iron  (value  in  1900,  $16,700,000). 

The  city  is  laid  out  in  the  form  of  a circle , of  which  the  radius 
is  31/2  M.  and  the  large  Union  Depot  the  centre.  A little  to  the  S. 
of  the  station  is  the  *]Sew  State  Capitol,  which  contains  a library  of 
about  60,000  vols.  and  an  interesting  Geological  Collection.  A little 
to  the  N.W.  is  the  New  Court  House  ; and  farther  to  the  N.,  beyond 
the  railway , is  the  Custom  House.  The  City  Hall,  the  Chamber  of 
Commerce,  the  Opera  House,  the  *Carn€gie  Library  (of  white  marble), 
the  Century  Building,  the  Empire  Building,  the  Equitable  Building, 
the  Jewish  Temple,  and  the  First  Methodist  Church  are  notable  edi- 
fices. Among  the  chief  educational  establishments  are  the  Georgia 
School  of  Technology  (400  students;  a branch  of  the  University  at 

27=^ 


420  Route  67.  MONTGOMERY.  From  Washington 

Athens  (p.  428),  the  Atlanta  University  (300  coloured  students), 
the  Agnes  Scott  Institute^  and  the  Clark  University  (600  coloured 
students).  The  finest  private  houses  are  in  Peachtree  Street.  — In 
the  suburb  of  West  End  is  the  home  of  Joel  Chandler  Harris  (‘Uncle 
Remus’).  To  the  S.  of  the  city  are  the  large  McPherson  Barracks. 

From  Atlanta  to  Birmingham,  16S  M.,  Southern  Railway  in  5V2-6V4  hrs. 

— The  chief  intermediate  station  is  (104  M.)  Anniston  (900  ft.  ^ Anni&ton 
Inn.,  $2V2-4^  The  Calhoun.,  Wilmer  Hotel from  $2),  beautifully  situated 
among  the  foot-hills  of  the  Blue  Ridge.  It  is  surrounded  with  rich  beds 
of  brown  iron  ore.  Pop.  (1900)  9695.  Among  its  chief  buildings  are  the 
fine  Church  of  St.  Michael  and  All  Angels,  the  Noble  Institute  for  Boys  and 
Qirls,  and  the  Barber  Memorial  Seminary,  for  coloured  girls' (1893).  — 
168  M.  Birmingham,  see  p.  426. 

Our  train  now  passes  on  to  the  tracks  of  the  Atlanta  ^ West 
Point  R.  R.  — 656  M.  College  Park,  with  the  large  and  handsome 
building  of  the  Southern  Female  College.  687  M.  Newnan  (960  ft.), 
the  junction  of  a line  to  Macon  (p.  442).  At  (735  M.)  West  Point 
(585  ft.)  we  cross  the  Chattahoochee,  enter  Alabama  (‘Cotton  Plant- 
ation State’),  and  join  the  lines  of  the  Western  Railway  of  Alabama. 

— 757  M.  Opelika  is  the  junction  of  branch-lines  to  (29  M.)  Colum- 
bus and  to  Birmingham  (p.  426). 

Columbus  {^Rankin  Ho.,  $272-4^  Racine,  $272-872)  is  a busy  industrial 
town  of  17,614  inhab.,  with  large  cotton,  woollen,  and  flour  mills. 

From  (784  M.)  Chehaw  a railway  runs  to  (5  M.)  Tuskegee  (g  hard), 
with  its  interesting  Normal  and  Industrial  School  for  coloured  pupils 
(about  1500  in  all),  founded  and  conducted  by  Mr.  Booker  W ashington, 
the  distinguished  coloured  educationalist.  The  practical  instruction 
in  scientific  agriculture  is  one  of  the  most  successful  and  interesting 
departments  of  the  school.  In  1903  Mr.  Carnegie  presented  the 
Tuskegee  Institute  with  $ 600,000  as  the  nucleus  of  an  endowment 
fund.  — Farther  on  the  Alabama  River  runs  to  the  right. 

823  M.  Montgomery  (160  ft.  j Exchange,  $2^2“'^)  Olenmore, 
$21/2-31/2;  'Windsor,  $2-2^2)  Mabson,  R.  from  $1;  Rail.  Restau- 
rant), the  capital  and  third  city  of  Alabama,  lies  on  the  high  left 
bank  of  the  Alabama,  at  the  head  of  navigation.  It  contains  (1900) 
30,346  inhab.  and  carries  on  a large  trade  in  cotton  (150,000  bales 
annually)  and  various  manufactures.  The  dome  of  the  State  House, 
in  which  the  Confederate  Government  was  organized  in  Feb.,  1861, 
affords  a extensive  view.  In  the  grounds  is  a handsome  Confederate 
Monument.  The  Post  Office,  Court  House,  Carnegie  Library,  and 
City  Hall  are  large  buildings.  Montgomery,  which  dates  from  1817, 
is  surrounded  by  many  old-fashioned  plantation-residences.  Hidden 
behind  the  houses  in  the  street  between  the  Post  Office  and  the  State 
House  is  an  old  Slave  Market,  with  all  its  details  intact.  Knabes 
Drug  Store  (unchanged)  was  the  telegraph  office  from  which  the 
order  to  fire  on  Fort  Sumter  (p.  436)  was  despatched  in  1861. 

We  now  pass  on  to  the  Louisville  Nashville  R.  R.  867  M.  Green- 
ville. From  (882  M.)  Oeorgiana  a branch-line  leads  to  (48  M.)  Opp 


to  New  Orleans, 


MOBILE. 


67.  Route.  421 


and  another  thence  to  (23  M.)  Florala^  a new  town  on  the  border  of 
Florida  and  Alabama.  904  M.  Evergreen ; 942  M.  Flomaton,  also  a 
station  on  the  line  from  Selma  to  Pensacola  (p.  461).  Farther  on 
we  cross  the  Tensas  and  Mobile  Rivers  and  skirt  the  estuary  of  the 
last  to  — 

1003  M.  Mobile.  — Hotels.  Hotel  Bienville,  B.  $1-21/2;  Battle 
House,  R.  $ 1-3;  Windsor,  Klosky’s,  R.  from  $ 1 ; Southern,  $ 2-3.  — Rail- 
way Restaurant.  — Tramways  traverse  the  chief  streets  (5  c.).  — Steamers 
ply  to  points  on  the  Alabama  and  Tombigbee ; also  to  New  York,  Liver- 
pool, Tampa,  Havana,  Vera  Cruz,  etc.  — Post  Office,  at  the  cor.  of 
Royal  and  St.  Francis  Sts.  — British  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  Nassau  Stephens. 

Mobile.,  the  largest  city  and  only  seaport  of  Alabama,  lies  on  the 
W.  side  of  the  Mobile  River,  just  above  its  entrance  into  Mobile 
Bay,  It  is  situated  on  a plain,  backed  by  low  hills,  and  is  well  laid 
out.  Its  broad  and  quiet  streets  are  shaded  with  magnolias  and  live 
oaks,  and  its  gardens  are  fragrant  with  orange  blossom  and  jessamine. 
The  harbour  is  approached  by  a deep-water  channel  through  Mobile 
Bay  and  now  admits  vessels  of  30  ft.  draught.  At  the  entrance  to 
the  bay,  30  M.  below  the  city,  are  two  forts.  Pop.  (1900)  38,469. 

Mobile  was  founded  about  1710  by  the  Sieur  de  Bienville,  who  trans- 
ferred the  earliest  French  colony  in  this  region  from  Biloxi  (p.  422)  to 
Mobile  Bay.  It  was  the  capital  of  Louisiana  down  to  1723.  In  1763  it 
passed,  with  part  of  Louisiana,  to  Great  Britain ^ in  1780  it  was  handed 
over  to  Spaing  and  in  1803  it  became  part  of  the  United  States  by  the 
‘Louisiana  Purchase’,  though  the  Government  did  not  take  possession  until 
1813.  It  was  incorporated  as  a city  in  1819,  with  2500  inhab.,  a number 
that  had  increased  to  20,515  in  1850  and  to  32,034  in  1870.  In  1864  the 
harbour  was  attacked  and  closed  by  Adm.  Farragut.  The  city  itself  did 
not  surrender  to  the  Federal  troops  till  April  12th,  1865. 

The  chief  articles  of  Mobile’s  commerce  are  cotton,  lumber  and  manu- 
factured wood-products,  grain,  coal,  and  naval  stores.  The  value  of  its 
exports  in  1903  was  $ 15,822,000.  Its  manufactures  include  shingles,  barrel- 
staves,  saddlery,  bricks,  cedar  pencils,  pearl  buttons,  cotton- cloths,  cotton- 
seed oil,  cordage,  cigars,  and  beer. 

Tbe  most  ornate  building  in  the  city  is  the  Custom  House  ^ 
Post  Office,  at  tbe  corner  of  Royal  and  St.  Francis  Sts.,  erected 
at  a cost  of  $250,000  (50,0007.).  Other  important  edifices  are  the 
Cotton  Exchange,  the  Court  House,  the  Young  Mens  Christian  Asso- 
ciation, the  Barton  Academy  (a  large  building  with  a dome),  the 
U.  S.  Marine  Hospital,  the  City  Hospital,  the  Providence  Infirmary, 
the  Medical  College,  three  club-buildings  (the  Fidelia,  Elks  and  Athel- 
stan),  the  Masonic  Temple,  the  City  Bank  ^ Trust  Co.  Buildings,  the 
Southern  Market  and  Armoury,  and  the  Cathedral  of  the  Immaculate 
Conception.  The  most  beautiful  private  residences  are  in  the  shady 
* Government  Street.  In  Duncan  Place,  at  the  foot  of  Government 
St.,  near  the  Union  Station,  is  a statue  of  Raphael  Semmes  (1809- 
77),  commander  of  the  famous  Confederate  cruiser  ‘Alabama’  in  the 
Civil  War.  The  *Shell  Road,  extending  for  8 M.  along  the  Bay,  is 
the  favourite  drive. 

About  6M.  to  the  W.  is  Spring  Hill  (electric  tramway  ^ hotel),  with  a 
large  Roman  Catholic  College  (185  students).  Halfway  to  it  we  pass  a large 
Roman  Catholic  Convent  and  Academy  for  Girls.  — Monroe  Park  is  a pop- 


422  Route  67. 


PASS  CHRISTIAN.  From  Washington 


ular  resort  on  the  Shell  Road  (also  reached  by  tramway).  At  the  S.  end 
of  the  Shell  Road  is  Frederic's  Restaurant  (fish,  game,  and  oysters).  — 
More  distant  resorts  of  the  Mohilians  are  Point  Clear  (Grand  Hotel,  $ 2^/2), 
on  the  E.  shore  of  the  Bay,  Gitronelle  (Hygeia  Hotel,  $ IV2),  30  M.  to  the 
N.,  Alabama  Port.^  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  Bay,  and  Coden  and  Bayou  La 
Batre^  on  the  Gulf  Coast,  33  M.  from  the  city. 

Beyond  Mo]}ile  the  train  runs  near  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  of  which 
it  affords  occasional  views  to  the  left.  It  traverses  a characteristic 
Southern  landscape,  passing  savannahs,  cane-hrakes,  and  pine 
forest,  and  crossing  several  ‘bayous’.  Palmettoes  and  moss-draped 
live-oaks  are  among  the  most  characteristic  vegetation.  Beyond 
(1028  M.)  Grand  Bay  we  enter  Mississippi  (‘Bayou  State’).  At 
(1044  M.)  Scranton  we  pass  on  a low  trestle  across  the  several  forks 
of  the  Pascagoula  River  just  above  their  entrance  into  the  hay  of  the 
same  name.  1060  M.  Ocean  Springs  (Ocean  Springs  Ho. , $ 2-5),  a 
seaside  resort  with  two  chalybeate  springs.  At  (1064  M.)  Biloxi 
(Hotel  de  Montross,  $2-3;  Brit,  vice-consul,  Mr.  J.  J.  Lemon), 
where  we  cross  another  trestle,  the  Sieur  de  Bienville  erected  a fort 
in  1690,  before  he  transferred  his  colony  to  Mobile  (p.  421).  — 
Jefferson  Davis  had  his  country-home  at  (1069  M.)  Beauvoir,  where 
he  died  in  1889.  The  house  has  been  converted  into  a Home  for 
Veterans  of  the  Confederate  Army.  — 1073  M.  Mississippi  City,  a 
seaside-resort  known  for  its  excellent  mackerel  fishing.  — 1076  M. 
Gulfport  (Great  Southern  Hotel,  with  250  rooms,  from  $ 1),  the 
terminus  of  the  Gulf  ^ Ship  Island  R.  R.  to  (159  M.)  Jackson 
(p.  403),  has  a railway-pier  extending  1 M.  into  Mississippi  Sound. 
It  possesses  the  only  deep-water  harbour  between  Mobile  and  New 
Orleans  and  exports  great  quantities  of  pine  lumber  to  domestic  and 
foreign  ports. 

1086  M.  Pass  Christian  (* Mexican  Gulf  Hotel,  $2^2 “5; 
Crescent,  $ 3-5 ; Monsal,  Magnolia,  $ 2-3)  is  the  largest  and  most 
fashionable  of  the  summer  and  winter  resorts  on  the  ‘Gulf  Coast’. 
On  leaving  it  we  cross  a long  trestle  of  creosoted  timber  to  (1091  M.) 
Bay  St.  Louis  (Clifton,  from  $ a flourishing  little  town  with 

2872  inhabitants. 

Beyond  (1103  M.)  Claiborne  we  cross  the  Pearl  River  and  enter 
Louisiana  (‘Pelican  State’).  Farther  on  we  cross  the  outlet  of  Lake 
Pontchartrain  (p.  466)  and  traverse  the  peninsula  between  it  and 
Lake  Borgne.  Lake  Catherine  (r.)  is  an  arm  of  the  former.  1106  M. 
Dunbar,  a noted  fishing  centre,  formerly  known  as  English  Lookout, 
from  its  occupation  by  the  British  army  in  1812.  — 1117  M.  Lake 
Catherine  Station ; 1123  M.  Chef  Menteur;  1142  M.  Pontchartrain 
Junction.  In  entering  New  Orleans,  the  train  runs  down  the  middle 
of  the  wide  street  named  the  ‘Champs  Elysees’. 

1144  M.  New  Orleans,  see  R.  81. 


to  New  Orleans, 


ROANOKE. 


67.  Route.  423 


b.  ViS.  Southern  Railway,  Norfolk  & Western  Railway, 
and  Chattanooga. 

1111  M.  in  343/4  hrs.  Southern  Railway  to  (173  M.)  Lynchburg;  Nor- 
folk <fe  Western  Ry.  thence  to  (377  M.)  Bristol;  Southern  Railway  thence 
to  (619  M.)  Chattanooga;  Queen  & Crescent  Route  thence  to  (1111  M.)  New 
Orleans  (through  - fare  $27.50^  sleeper  $6.50).  — Passengers  from  New 
York  are  forwarded  in  through-sleepers  (through-fare  $ 34,  sleeper  $ 9). 

From  Washington  to  (173  M.)  Lynchburg^  see  p.  417.  We  now 
pass  on  to  the  tracks  of  the  Norfolk  & Western  Railway,  thread  a 
tunnel,  and  begin  to  ascend  towards  the  Blue  Ridge  Mts.  The  finely- 
shaped  *Pea1cs  of  Otter  (3875-4000  ft.)  are  seen  to  the  right.  They 
are  best  reached  by  carriage  (7  M.)  from  (198  M.)  Bedford  (950  ft.; 
Hot.  Bedford,  $ ^ small  town  with  2416  inhab.  and  various 

industries.  To  the  right,  beyond  it,  is  the  handsome  Randolph- Macon 
Academy,  — At  (215  M.)  Blue  Ridge  (1240  ft.),  with  mineral  springs 
and  a hotel  ($  3),  we  begin  to  descend  on  the  other  side  of  the  crest. 

226  M.  Roanoke  (910  ft.;  *Hotel  Roanoke^  $ 21/2-5;  Ponce  de 
Leon.,  $ 21/2-4;  Stratford.,  $ 21/2;  St.  James,  $ 2),  finely  situated  on 
the  Roanoke,  among  the  Blue  Hills,  has  grown  since  1880,  from  the 
insignificant  hamlet  of  Big  Lick  (500  inhab.),  to  a busy  city  of 
21,495  inhab.,  with  large  machine,  iron,  bridge,  carriage,  and  other 
manufactories.  It  is  the  junction  of  various  branches  of  the  Nor- 
folk & Western  R.  R.  (through  the  Shenandoah  Valley  to  Hagers- 
town, see  p.  429;  to  Norfolk,  see  p.  414;  to  Winston-Salem), 

From  (233  M.)  Salem  (1005  ft.)  stages  run  to  (9  M.)  Roanoke 
Red  Sulphur  Springs  (Hotel,  $ 2).  246  M.  Elliston  (1250  ft.) ; 250  M. 
Shawsville  (1470  ft.),  the  station  for  (3  M.)  Allegheny  Springs  (stage) ; 
254  M.  Montgomery,  for  (1  M.)  Montgomery  White  Sulphur  Springs 
(tramway);  259  M.  Christiansburg  (2005  ft.),  for  (3  M.)  Yellow 
Sulphur Springs{%UgQ $21/2). — 270 M. EastRadford{illQii.-, 
Norwood  Hotel,  $2),  on  New  River,  is  the  junction  of  the  Ohio 
Extension  (New  River  Branch)  of  the  N.  & W.  R.  R. 

_ From  East  Radford  to  Columbus  , 409  M.,  railway  in  141/2  lirs.  — 
This  line  descends  through  the  Alleghenies  along  the  left  bank  of  the 
New  River.  22  M.  Pembroke  (1620  ft.)*,  26  M.  Big  Stone  Junction.  At  (39  M.) 
Glen  Lyn  it  leaves  the  New  River  and  ascends  to  (65  M.)  Bluefield,  beyond 
which  it  traverses  the  great  Pocahontas  Coal  Field.  From  (76  M.)  Bluestone 
Junction  a short  branch-line  runs  to  (1  M.)  Pocahontas.  Beyond  (77  M.) 
Cooper  we  thread  a tunnel  the  sides  of  which  are  of  coal.  We  then 
descend  to  the  Elkhorn  and  Tug  River,  passing  below  a corner  of  Ken- 
tucky by  a long  tunnel  at  (158  M.)  Thacker.  From  (186  M.)  Naugatuck  we 
descend  the  Twelve  Pole  River  to  (270  M.)  Kenova,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Ohio  and  the  Big  Sandy.  We  cross  the  former  river  and  enter  Ohio. 
282  M.  Ironton.  At  (309  M.)  Portsmouth  we  leave  the  Ohio  and  ascend  the 
Scioto  Valley,  which  is  full  of  interesting  remains  of  the  ‘Mound  Build- 
ers’ (comp.  p.  Ixvi).  Some  of  the  most  extensive  of  these  are  near  Ports- 
mouth, which  is  35  M.  by  railway  from  Peebles  {Serpent  Mound;  p.  387). 
Near  (333  M.)  Piketon  is  a remarkable  ’‘Graded  Way',  1080  ft.  long.  358  M. 
Chillicothe  (p.  383)  also  lies  amid  numerous  mounds  and  circles.  378  M. 
Circleville.  — 409  M.  Columbus,  see  p.  327. 

285  M.  Pulaski  (1920  ft.;  Maple  Shade  Inn,  open  in  summer 
only,  $ 3 ; Pulaski,  Arlington,  $ 2),  a busy  little  iron  and  zinc  making 


424  Rotife  67. 


KNOXVILLE. 


From  Washington 


town  with  2813  inhab.,  is  connected  by  a branch -line  with  the 
Cripple  Creek  District^  with  its  rich  deposits  of  brown  hematite  iron  ore. 
298  M.  Max  Meadows  (2030  ft.;  inn);  306  M.  Wytheville  (2240  ft.; 
Fourth  Avenue,  $2;  Hancock,  Boyd,  $1V2)5  ^ frequented  summer- 
resort.  To  the  S.  (left)  are  the  Lick  Mts.,  here  dividing  the  valley 
into  two  branches.  319  M.  Rural  Retreat  (2575  ft.),  the  highest  point 
on  the  line;  333  M.  Marion  (2135  ft.),  with  the  State  Insane  Asylum ; 
349  M.  Qlade  Spring;  362  M.  Abingdon. 

377  M.  Bristol  (1690  ft.;  Hamilton.,  St.  Lawrence^  $2-21/2))  an 
industrial  city  and  tobacco  market  with  4579  inhab.,  lies  on  the 
boundary  between  Virginia  and  Tennessee,  — The  scenery  continues 
picturesque.  — 402  M.  Johnson  City  (1640  ft.),  with  a new  Soldiers’ 
Home  (room  for  3500  inmates). 

A narrow-gauge  railway,  known  as  the  '‘Cranberry  Stem  Winder\  as- 
cends through  the  Doe  River  CaJion  (1500  ft.  deep)  and  up  Roan  Mt.  to  (26  M.) 
Roan  Mt,  Station  and  (34  M.)  Cranberry,  From  Roan  Mt.  Station  stages 
($  2)  run  to  (12  M.)  the  Cloudland  Hotel  ($  2^/2),  on  the  summit  (6315  ft.), 
the  highest  human  habitation  to  the  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  The  *View 
hence  is  very  extensive,  some  authorities  considering  it  the  finest  in  Western 
North  Carolina  (comp.  p.  430).  The  rhododendrons  and  azaleas  are  at  their 
best  between  June  20th  and  July  10th.  Excursions  may  be  made  hence 
over  the  mountain-roads  to  Hot  Springs  and  (80  M.)  Asheville  (p.  431). 

On  a hill  to  the  left  as  we  leave  (454  M.)  Greenville  is  the  grave 
monument  of  Andrew  Johnson  (1808-75),  a resident  of  the  district. 
— 466  M.  Morristown  (1280  ft.),  the  junction  of  the  liiie  to  Ashe- 
ville and  Salisbury  described  in  R.  69. 

A short  branch-line  runs  hence  to  Bean's  Station.,  IV2  M.  from  which 
lie  Tate  Springs  (Hotel,  $21/2-31/2),  among  the  Clinch  Mts.  (4200  ft.). 

Beyond  Morristown  we  enjoy  frequent  glimpses  of  the  Holston 
River.,  which  we  cross  before  reaching  Knoxville. 

508  m.  Knoxville  (900  ft. ; Imperial^  $272"5 ; Cumberland^  ^2-3 ; 
Palace.,  $1 V2))  the  chief  city  of  E.  Tennessee,  is  finely  situated  among 
the  foothills  of  the  Clinch  Mts,.,  on  the  Tennessee  River.,  formed  4 M. 
farther  up  by  the  junction  of  the  Holston  and  the  French  Broad, 
Pop.  (1900)  32,637  (with  suburbs,  over  50,000).  It  is  the  centre  of 
the  Tennessee  marble  district,  in  which  600,000  tons  of  this  beauti- 
ful stone  are  annually  quarried.  It  has  a large  trade  in  country 
produce  and  various  manufactures.  About  a dozen  different  lines 
radiate  from  its  two  railway  stations.  Among  the  chief  buildings  are 
the  University  of  Tennessee  (600  students),  the  Agricultural  College 
(belonging  to  the  University),  the  Custom  House,  the  Court  House, 
the  Deaf  ^ Dumb  Institute,  the  City  Hospital,  the  Hospital  for  the 
Insane,  the  Knoxville  College  (coloured  students),  and  the  City  Hall, 

Knoxville  claims  to  have  been  besieged  thrice,  but  never  captured. 
Visits  may  be  paid  to  the  National  Cemetery,  Gray  Cemetery,  Chilhowee  Parh  (E.), 
and  Magnolia  Park  (N.),  for  negroes-  The  Tennessee  is  crossed  at  Knoxville 
by  an  aerial  tramway,  350  ft.  above  the  river,  leading  to  a pleasure-resort 
on  the  opposite  bank. 

Mountaineers  may  go  by  train  to  (10  M.)  Maryville  (Jackson  Ho.,  $2), 
25  M.  (drive)  from  Thunderhead  Peak  (5520  ft.),  one  of  the  finest  of  the 
Great  Smoky  Mts.  (ascent,  with  guide,  in  7-8  hrs. ; "View).  — Not  far  off 
to  the  E.  is  a reservation  containing  about  18(X)  Cherokee  Indians. 


to  New  Orleans.  CHATTANOOGA. 


67.  noute.  425 


A brancli  of  the  Southern  Railway  runs  from  Knoxville  to  (65  M.) 
^Cumberland  Gap  (1665  ft.),  the  chief  pass  across  the  Cumberland  Mts.^ 
between  Virginia  and  Kentucky,  and  to  (69  M.j  Middlesboro  {The  Middle*- 
borough.^  from  $ 2-,  Cumberland  Ho.^  $ 2),  a small  iron-making  town  with 
4162  inhabitants.  In  approaching  the  Gap  the  railway  passes  through 
a tunnel,  3750  ft.  long,  which  begins  in  Tennessee,  passes  under  a corner 
of  Virginia,  and  comes  out  in  Kentucky.  The  Lincoln  Memorial  University^ 
adjoining  the  Gap,  is  attended  by  400  students. 

Railways  also  run  from  Knoxville  to  Louisville  (p.  3'35),  Atlanta 
(p.  419),  etc. 

The  part  of  the  Alleghenies  bounding  the  S.  horizon  at  this  part 
of  our  route  is  known  as  the  Great  Smoky  Mts.  (5-6000  ft.),  fam- 
iliar to  the  readers  of  Charles  Egbert  Craddock's  novels.  At  (537  M.) 
Loudon  (815  ft.)  we  cross  and  quit  the  Tennessee  River.  563  M. 
Athens  (930  ft.),  with  the  preparatory  department  of  Grant  University 
(left ; see  below). 

At  (590  M.)  Cleveland  it. Ocoee  Ho.,  $2),  an  industrial  city 
with  3858  inhab. , the  railway  forks,  one  branch  running  via  Rome 
to  Atlanta,  Macon,  and  Brunswick  (see  p.  426),  while  our  line  leads 
via  Chattanooga  to  Birmingham  and  New  Orleans. 

The  line  from  Cleveland  to  Brunswick  unites  with  that  from  Chatta- 
nooga to  Brunswick  at  (15  M.)  Cohutta  (see  p.  426). 

Farther  on  we  cross  the  Citico  Creek  and  thread  a tunnel. 

619  M.  Chattanooga  (685  ft.;  Stanton  House,  near  the  Central 
Station,  $2Y2~5;  Read  Ho.,  with  an  excellent  restaurant,  R.  from 
$ 1 ; Southern  Hotel,  $ 21/2-3,  these  two  near  the  Union  Station;  Rail- 
way Restaurants),  the  fourth  city  of  Tennessee,  with  30,154  inhab., 
lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tennessee,  in  the  centre  of  a district 
rich  in  iron,  coal,  and  timber.  Its  progress  of  late  has  been  very 
rapid,  and  its  manufactures  (value  in  1900,  $ 12,000,000)  and  trade 
are  of  considerable  importance.  The  river  is  navigable  to  this  point 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and  railways  diverge  in  all 
directions.  The  large  Grant  University  (Methodist)  is  attended  by 
900  students  (inch  those  at  Athens,  see  above).  Gen.  Grant’s  head- 
quarters in  1863  (1st  St.,  near  Walnut  St.)  are  denoted  by  a bronze 
tablet,  and  various  other  points  of  interest  are  also  marked. 

Chattanooga  was  a point  of  great  strategic  importance  during  the  Civil 
War,  and  several  battles  were  fought  in  the  neighbourhood  (comp.  p.  xlv). 
The  best  general  idea  of  the  military  operations  is  obtained  from  *Look- 
out  Mt.  (2125  ft.) , which  rises  to  the  S.  of  the  city  and  commands  a 
superb  *View,  extending  into  seven  states.  The  top  may  be  reached  by 
carriage-road,  or  by  an  inclined  plane  with  cable  - railway  connecting 
with  the  electric  tramway  from  the  town,  and  ending  near  the  large  Lookout 
Inn  ($3-5;  1000  beds,  incl.  the  cottages).  A tramway  (’'Views)  runs  from 
the  head  of  the  inclined  plane  along  the  crest  of  the  mountain,  skirting 
the  point  where  the  ‘Battle  above  the  Clouds’  took  place  on  Nov.  24th, 
1863,  to  Lunar  Lake,  Sunset  Rock  and  (3  M.)  Natural  Bridge.  To  the  E.  rises 
Mi^onary  Ridge  (also  ascended  by  an  electric  tramway),  which  gave  name 
to  the  battle  of  Nov.  25th,  1883.  Another  tramway  (return-fare  25  c.)  runs 
from  the  town  across  the  ridge  to  the  battlefield  of  Ghickamauga  (Sept. 
19th-21st,  1863),  perhaps  the  bloodiest  battle  of  modern  days  (33  009  men 
killed  or  wounded  out  of  121,000  engaged).  About  15  sq.  M.  of  this  battle- 
field and  of  that  of  Lookout  Mountain  and  of  Missionary  Ridge,  have 
recently  been  laid  out  as  a national  park  {Park  Hotel,  near  Crawfish 


426  Boule  67. 


BIRMINGHAM. 


From  Washington 


Springs,  $2^  carriages  in  waiting  at  the  tramway  terminus  for  drives 
over  the  battlefield,  charges  reasonable).  Numerous  memorial  monuments 
have  been  erected,  and  the  positions  of  the  battle-lines  and  batteries  have 
been  marked,  in  many  instances  with  the  guns  actually  used  in  the  battles. 
The  park  contains  100  M.  of  drives.  Other  battlefields  lie  a little  farther 
to  the  E.  The  pretty  Lulu  Falls  are  easily  reached  from  Lookout  Inn.  — 
The  National  Soldiers^  Cemetery.,  with  13,000  graves,  lies  to  the  E.  of  the 
city.  — Chicamauga  was  the  site  of  one  of  the  great  mobilisation  camps 
(50,000  men)  in  the  war  with  Spain  (1898). 

From  Chattanooga  to  Brunswick,  432  M.,  railway  (Southern  Railway) 
in  13-14Y2  hrs.  At  (27  M.)  Cohutta  this  line  joins  the  line  from  Cleve- 
land (see  p.  425)  and  enters  Georgia.  80  M.  Kome  {Armstrong  Hotel,  $ 2Vi'- 
41/2  \ New  Central.,  $ 2),  one  of  the  chief  cities  of  N.  Georgia,  with  7291  inhab. 
and  considerable  manufactures,  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Anniston  (p.  450), 
Attala  (see  below),  and  other  points.  The  railway  now  runs  towards  the 
S.E.  and  passes  near  several  battlefields.  — 154  M.  Atlanta,  see  p.  419. 
From  (205  M.)  Flovilla  a steam- tramway  runs  to  Indian  Springs  (The 
Wigwam,  $ 2V2).  — 242  M.  Macon,  see  p.  442.  — 281  M.  Cochran;  SCO  M. 
Eastman  (De  Leitch  Ho.,  $2),  a winter-resort;  318  M.  Helena.  At  (390  M.) 
Jesup  we  intersect  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  from  Savannah  to  the  S (see 
R.  75b)  and  at  (410  M.)  Everett  the  Seaboard  Air  Line  (R.  75  c).  — 432  M. 
Brunswick  (Oglethorpe,  from  $2^/2;  Brit,  vice-consul,  Mr.  Rosendo  Torras), 
a rising  cotton-shipping  port  and  winter-resort,  with  9081  inhab.,  is  situated 
on  the  Brunswick  River,  near  its  embouchure  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The 
value  of  its  exports  and  imports  in  1903  was  $ 29,176,932.  The  ‘Wanderer’, 
the  last  slave-ship  to  cross  the  ocean,  landed  her  500  slaves  at  Brunswick. 
The  historic  St.  Simon's  Island  (Ocean  View,  $ 11/2-2)  and  other  pleasant 
resorts  are  in  this  vicinity.  Steamer  from  Brunswick  to  Savannah  and 
Florida,  see  p.  443. 

From  Chattanooga  to  Memphis,  310  M.,  Southern  Railway  in  10-111/2  hrs. 
— The  line  enters  Alabama,  crosses  the  Tennessee  at  (30  M.)  Bridgeport, 
and  runs  towards  the  W.  38  M.  Stevenson  is  the  junction  of  a line  to 
iMashville  (p.  399).  97  M.  Huntsville  (610  ft.;  Huntsville  Hotel,  $21/2-8, 

open  in  winter  only;  Monte  Sano,  a summer-hotel  on  a spur  of  the  Cumber- 
land Mts.,  1700  ft.  above  the  sea,  $2-4),  with  15,0C0  inhab.,  was  formerly 
the  capital  of  the  state.  — We  recross  the  Tennessee  to  (122  M.)  Decatur 
(570  ft. ; Bismarck,  American  Hotel,  $ 2),  a little  iron  - making  city  with 
various  manufactures.  Including  the  adjacent  New  Decatur  City  (New 
Decatur  Hotel,  $ 2)  it  has  (1900)  7551  inhabitants.  — 165  M.  Tuscumhia, 
with  the  adjacent  Sheffield  and  Florence  (across  the  Tennessee),  has  an 
industrial  population  of  12,160.  Before  reaching  (196  M.)  luka  (555  ft.)  we 
leave  the  Tennessee  and  enter  Mississippi.  — 217  M.  Corinth  was  a place  of 
some  strategic  importance  in  the  War  and  was  occupied  by  Gen.  Beauregard 
after  the  two  days’  fight  at  Shiloh  (10-12  M.  to  theN.;  April  6-7th,  1862), 
in  which  Gen.  Johnston  lost  his  life  and  the  Confederates  were  defeated 
by  Grant  and  Buell.  Afterwards  Corinth  was  occupied  by  the  Unionists 
under  Rosecrans,  who  repelled  a desperate  attempt  to  take  it  (Oct  3rd-4th, 
1862).  — 258  M.  Grand  Junction.  — 310  M Memphis,  see  p.  401. 

From  Chattanooga  to  Lexington  and  Cincinnati,  see  R.  62a. 

Beyond  Chattanooga  the  New  Orleans  train  runs  to  the  S.W. 
across  Alabama  on  the  tracks  of  the  Queen  # Crescent  Route  (see 
p.  423).  This  traverses  the  scene  of  the  Indian  Wars  of  1811  and 
subsequent  years.  Many  names  and  other  features  bear  witness  to 
the  early  French  settlers  (1805).  669  M.  Fort  Payne  (860  ft.);  705  M. 
Attala  (580  ft.),  the  junction  of  lines  to  Decatur  (see  above)  and 
Rome  (see  above). 

761  M.  Birmingham  (580  ft.;  Hillman,  Florence,  from  $2; 
Metropolitan,  Morris,  R.  from  $ 1),  a busy  manufacturing  city  in 
Jones  Valley,  founded  in  1871  and  containing  38,415  inhab.  in 


to  New  Orleans. 


RALEIGH. 


67.  Route.  427 


1900  (and  very  mucli  larger  with  its  suburbs),  owes  its  rapid  growth, 
phenomenal  among  southern  cities,  to  the  vicinity  (3  M.)  of  Red 
Mountain.,  which  contains  inexhaustible  stores  of  hematite  iron  ore 
in  conjunction  with  abundant  coal  and  limestone.  Its  activity  is 
exhibited  in  large  rolling  mills,  iron-furnaces,  foundries,  machine 
shops,  a large  basic  steel  mill,  etc.  (total  value  of  products  in  1900, 
$ 12,581,000).  Railways  (steam  and  electric)  radiate  hence  in  all 
directions.  — 772  m.  Bessemer  (600  ft.;  Grand  Hotel,  $ 21/2),  founded 
in  1887,  contained  6358  inhab.  in  1900  and  is  already  an  iron- 
making  place  of  considerable  importance.  — 817  M.  Tuscaloosa 
(160  ft. ; Hotel  McLester,  from  $ 2),  a characteristic  old-time  Southern 
town  of  the  best  type,  at  the  head  of  steamboat-navigation  on  the 
Black  Warrior  River ^ has  5094  inhab.  and  is  the  site  of  the  University 
of  Alabama  (400  students).  Its  residence-streets  contain  many  fine 
old  Colonial  houses  and  are  shaded  with  magnificent  oaks.  It  carries 
on  a large  trade  in  agricultural  produce.  — At  (892  M.)  Cuba  we 
enter  Mississippi.  — 915  M.  Meridian  (320  ft. ; Southern,  $2V2“3; 
Grand  Avenue,  $ 2),  an  industrial  city  with  14,050  inhab.,  is  the 
junction  of  lines  to  Vicksburg  (p.  401),  Corinth  (p.  426),  and  Mobile 
(p.  421).  — We  reach  Louisiana  at  (1067  M.)  Nicholson.  In  entering 
New  Orleans  we  cross  Lake  Pontchartrain  (p.  466)  by  a trestle- 
bridge  about  7 M.  long. 

1111  M.  New  Orleans,  see  p.  461. 

c.  Nik  Seaboard  Air  Line  and  Atlanta. 

1191  M.  Railway  in  36  hrs.  (fares  as  above).  Richmond,  Fhedericks- 
BUBG,  AND  Potomac  R.  R.  from  Washington  to  (116  M.)  Richmond;  Sea- 
board Air  Line  from  Richmond  to  (695 M.)  Atlanta;  Atlanta  & West  Point 
R.  R.  from  Atlanta  to  (870  M.)  Montgomery ; Louisville  & Nashville 
R.  R.  from  Montgomery  to  (1191  M.)  New  Orleans. 

From  Washington  to  (116  M.)  Richmond,  see  R.  65;  from  Rich- 
mond to  (139  M.)  Petersburg,  see  p.  416.  The  line  continues  to  run 
towards  the  S.  154  M.  Dinwiddie;  163  M.  McKenney;  180  M.  Cochran; 
195  M.  La  Crosse;  202  M.  Bracey.  We  now  enter  North  Carolina. 

214  M.  Norlina,  a new  and  growing  settlement,  is  the  junction 
of  the  Seabord  Air  Line  branch  to  Portsmouth  and  Norfolk  (p.  414). 

Our  route  runs  towards  the  S.W.  217  M.  Ridgeway;  229  M. 
Henderson  (3746  inhab.),  the  junction  of  a line  to  Durham  (p.  418); 
246  M.  Franklinton ; 256  M.  Wake  Forest,  with  a large  college  • 
263  M.  Neuse.  ’ 

272  M.  Raleigh  (320  ft. ; Yarborough  House,  $21/2-4;  Dorset, 
$2),  the  capital  of  North  Carolina,  with  13,643  inhab.,  lies  on  high 
ground  near  the  centre  of  the  state.  The  State  House  stands  in 
Union  Square,  in  the  centre  of  the  city.  Among  other  large  build- 
ings are  St.  Mary's  College  (pleasant  grounds),  the  Peace  Institute, 
the  Baptist  University  (these  three  for  girls  and  young  women),  the 
Agricultural  ^ Mechanical  College  (500  students),  Shaw  University 
(490  coloured  students),  the  State  Insane  Asylum,  the  State  Geological 


428  Route  67. 


SOUTHERN  PINES. 


Museum j and  the  Post  Office.  A drive  may  he  taken  to  the  Old^ 
Confederate,  and  Federal  Cemeteries  (views). 

From  Raleigh  to  Durham  and  Qreen&horo,  to  Ooldsboro,  and  to  Norfolk, 
see  p.  418. 

Beyond  Raleigh  our  line  continues  towards  the  S.W.  309  M. 
Moncure  is  the  junction  of  a short  line  to  Pittsboro.  — At  (315  M.) 
Sanford  we  connect  with  the  Atlantic  Coast  and  Southern  railways. 

From  (328  M.)  Cameron  a short  branch  diverges  to  (10  M.) 
Carthage.  — 341  M.  Southern  Pines  (600  ft. ; *Piney  Woods  Inn, 
$ 2-4;  Southern  Pines  Ho.,  $ 2-4,  open  all  the  year),  a pleasant  winter- 
resort,  situated  on  dry  sandy  soil,  in  the  heart  of  the  long-leaved 
pine  belt  of  N.  Carolina  (average  winter-temperature  44®Fahr.). 

A light  railway  runs  towards  the  W.  from  Southern  Pines,  through 
peach-orchards,  to  (6  M.)  Piuehurst  (Carolina,  from  3 5^  Holly  Inn,  3 27*2; 
Harvard,  open  all  the  year  round,  3 2),  a winter-resort  among  the  pines, 
with  a casino,  a deer-park,  and  other  attractions. 

370  M.  Hamlet  (Rail.  Restaurant)  is  the  point  where  the  New 
Orleans  line  diverges  from  the  Seaboard  route  to  Florida  (R.  75b). 
At  (395  M.)  Wadesboro  we  intersect  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line.  423  M. 
Monroe  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (104  M.)  Rutherfordton.  Near 
(435  M.)  Waxhaw  we  enter  South  Carolina  (p.  418).  At  (447  M.) 
Catawba  we  intersect  the  Ohio  River  and  Charleston  Railway ; at 
(467  M.)  Chester  we  cross  the  Southern  Railway  from  Charlotte  to 
Columbia;  and  at  (484  M.)  Carlisle  we  cross  the  same  railway’s 
branch  between  Columbia  and  Spartanburg  (p.  418).  513  M.  Clinton 
is  another  point  of  connection  with  the  Southern  Railway  System ; 
541  M.  Greenwood  and  (556  M.)  Abbeville  connect  both  with  the 
Southern  Railway  and  with  the  Central  of  Georgia  R.R.  At  (571  M.) 
Calhoun  Falls  we  cross  the  Savannah  and  enter  Georgia  (p.  419). 
588  M.  Elberton.  — 622  M.  Athens  (850  ft. ; Commercial,  Imperial, 
Windsor,  all  $2),  a small  town  with  10,245  inhab.,  on  the  Oconee 
River,  is  the  educational  centre  of  Georgia.  It  is  the  seat  of  the 
University  of  Georgia  (2000  students),  and  among  its  other  educa- 
tional establishments  may  be  mentioned  the  Lucy  Cobb  Institute  for 
Girls  and  the  Georgia  Normal  College.  It  is  the  junction  of  lines  to 
Macon,  Lula  (p.  401),  Augusta-Olar-Charleston  (p.  445),  and  various 
other  points.  — 660  M.  Lawrenceville ; 677  M.  Tucker. 

695  M.  Atlanta,  and  thence  to  ■ — 

1191  M.  New  Orleans,  see  R.  67  a. 


68.  From  Hagerstown  to  Bristol.  The  Shenandoah 
Valley. 

390  M.  Norfolk  & Western  Railway  in  133/4  hrs.  (fare  3 11. TO;  parlor- 
car  3 2,  sleeper  3 3).  — Passengers  from  New  York  and  the  North  (New 
York  to  Bristol  in  19  hrs.)  reach  Hagerstown  via  Philadelphia,  Lancaster, 
and  Harrisburg  (comp.  p.  288);  those  from  Baltimore  and  Washington  join 
the  route  at  Shenandoah  Junction  (comp.  pp.  328,  429). 


LURAY. 


68.  Route.  429 


Hagerstown^  see  p.  288.  The  line  runs  towards  the  S.,  traversing 
the  battlefield  of  Antietam  (p.xliv),  one  of  the  bloodiest  in  the  Civil 
War.  6 M.  St  James  (465  ft.).  — The  village  of  (14  M.)  Antietam 
(445  ft.)  is  11/2^-  from  Burnside  Bridge,  the  scene  of  the  heaviest 
fighting  on  Sept.  17th,  1862,  and  about  the  same  distance  from 
Sharpsburg,  the  field  of  another  severe  contest.  At  Sharpsburg  is  a 
National  Cemetery,  with  the  graves  of  5000  soldiers.  Numerous  posts 
and  tablets  commemorate  the  chief  incidents  in  the  battle  of  Antie- 
tam. One  monument  commemorates  the  part  played  in  the  battle 
by  President  McKinley,  then  a sergeant  in  an  Ohio  regiment.  — 
We  now  quit  Maryland  and  enter  West  Virginia.  At  (17  M.) 
Shepherdstown  we  cross  the  Potdmac. 

23  M.  Shenandoah  Junction  (515  ft.) , for  lines  to  Baltimore 
and  Washington  (see  R.  45),  Martinsburg  (p.  328),  and  Cumberland 
(p.  329).  We  here  begin  to  ascend  the  lovely  ^Shenandoah  Valley, 
which,  in  addition  to  its  natural  beauties,  offers  the  interest  of  the 
campaigns  of  the  Civil  War. 

The  so-called  •Valley  of  Virginia,  stretching  between  the  Bine  Ridge 
and  the  Allegheny  Mts.  for  about  300  M.,  covers  7500  sq.  M.  of  ground  and 
includes  the  whole  or  part  of  the  valleys  of  the  Shenandoah,  James,  Roa- 
noke, and  New  River.  It  was  the  scene  of  many  conflicts  during  the  war, 
including  Stonewall  Jackson’s  skilful  operations  against  Pope,  Banks,  Fre- 
mont, and  Shields  (1862)  and  Sheridan’s  brilliant  cavalry  feats  (1864). 

The  Shenandoah  runs  at  first  to  the  left,  at  some  distance.  Be- 
yond it  rise  the  Blue  Ridge  Mts.  28  M.  Charlestown  (517  ft.),  the 
scene  of  John  Brown’s  execution  (p.  328),  was  so  called  after  Col. 
Charles  Washington,  a brother  of  the  first  President.  We  cross  the 
river  at  (59  M.)  Riverton  (500  ft.),  which  lies  at  the  confluence  of 
the  N.  and  S.  forks  of  the  Shenandoah.  We  follow  the  S.  fork  (to  our 
left).  The  Shenandoah  Valley  is  here  divided  into  two  branches  by 
Massanutton  Mt..^  an  offshoot  of  the  Alleghenies,  which  is  now  con- 
spicuous to  the  right.  — 62  M.  Front  Royal. 

88  M.  Luray  (820  ft.;  Mansion  Inn,  $2;  Lawrence,  open  in 
summer  only,  $2),  with  1150  inhab.,  finely  situated  on  the  Hawks^ 
hill,  5 M.  from  the  Blue  Ridge  and  3-4  M.  from  Massanutton.  It 
is  frequented  by  thousands  of  visitors  to  the  Luray  Cavern,  justly 
ranked  among  the  most  wonderful  natural  phenomena  of  America. 

To  reach  the  cave  from  the  station  (seat  in  vehicle  there  and  back 
35  c.)  we  ascend  the  main  street  of  the  village  to  (15-20  min.)  the  top  of 
the  hill,  where  we  see  (to  the  right)  the  conical  hill  containing  the  caves 
and  the  cottage  at  the  entrance  (adm.  $1,  after  8 p.m.  $1V2^  electric  lights 
extra  in  winter;  description  of  the  cave  25c.).  The  *Cavern  of  Luray 
is  probably  ‘more  completely  and  profusely  decorated  with  stalactite  and 
stalagmitic  ornamentation’  than  any  other  in  the  world,  surpassing  even 
the  celebrated  Adelsberg  Cave  in  this  respect.  Appropriate  names  have 
been  given  to  the  more  important  formations,  which  are  often  as  beautiful 
in  colour  as  in  shape.  Some  of  the  chambers  are  very  large  and  lofty. 
Small  lakes,  rivers,  and  springs  occur.  The  cavern  has  a pleasant  uniform 
temperature  of  51-58°,  is  traversed  by  dry  and  easy  paths,  and  is  bril- 
liantly lighted  by  electricity , so  that  a visit  to  it  involves  little  fatigue. 
It  takes  about  2-3  hrs.  to  see  the  parts  usually  shown  to  visitors. 

Visitors  to  Luray  may  also  ascend  Stony  Man  (4030  ft.),  one  of  the 


430  BouU  68. 


NATURAL  BRIDGE. 


highest  of  the  Blue  Ridge  summits,  which  rises  5 M.  to  the  E,  and  com- 
mands a fine  view  (one  day : horses  can  go  nearly  all  the  way  to  the  top). 
Accommodation  may  be  obtained  at  (9  M.)  Stony  Man  Camp  ($2),  near  the 
top.  — Luray  is  also  a good  centre  from  which  to  visit  many  of  the  battle- 
fields of  the  Virginia  Valley  campaign. 

Beyond  Luray  the  scenery  of  the  valley  continues  to  increase  in 
picturesqueness.  106  M.  Shenandoah^  with  iron-works  and  railway 
workshops.  — 129  M.  Orottoes  or  Shendun  (1120ft.  ^ Hotel  Fulton, 
$ 2)  is  the  station  for  a visit  to  the  Grottoes  of  the  Shenandoah 
(Weyer  and  Fountain  Caves),  which  lie  V2  M.  from  the  railway. 

The  grottoes  (adra.  $ 1)  are  lighted  by  electricity  and  are  easily  ex- 
plored (2-3  hrs.).  The  stalactites  and  stalagmites  vie  with  those  of  Luray. 

At  (143  M.)  Basic  City  (Belmont,  $2;  Brandon  Hotel,  open  in 
summer  only,  $2-3),  a new  industrial  settlement,  we  intersect  the 
C.  & 0.  Ry.  (see  p.381).  Near(167M.)  Vesuvius  (1420  ft.)  are  the 
Crabtree  Falls.  185  M.  Buena  Vista  is  another  of  the  busy  little 
towns  that  have  recently  sprung  up  to  develop  the  mineral  resources 
of  the  district.  We  cross  the  South  River. 

198  M.  Natural  Bridge  Station  (760  ft.) , on  the  James  River, 
2^2  M.  from  the  Natural  Bridge  (hotel-omnibuses  meet  the  trains; 
fare  50  c.).  The  C.  & 0.  Ry.  has  also  a station  here. 

The  **Natural  Bridge  of  Virginia  (1500  ft.  above  the  sea)  is  a huge 
monolithic  limestone  arch,  215  ft.  high,  lOO  ft.  wide,  and  90  ft.  in  span, 
crossing  the  ravine  of  the  Cedar  Brook.  It  seems  to  be  a remnant  of  a great 
horizontal  bed  of  limestone  rock  that  entirely  covered  the  gorge  of  the 
brook,  which  originally  flowed  through  a subterranean  tunnel.  The  rest 
of  this  roof  has  fallen  in  and  been  gradually  washed  or  worn  away.  The 
bridge  is  finely  situated  in  a beautiful  amphitheatre,  surrounded  by  moun- 
tains. Adjacent  is  a group  of  not  very  first-class  hotels  {Appledori- Pavilion, 
$ 272-8).  A kind  of  Park  has  been  formed,  embracing  the  five  hills  named 
Lebanon,  Mars  Hill,  Mi.  Jefferson,  Lincoln  Heights,  and  Cave  Mt.;  and  drives 
and  bridle-paths  have  been  constructed  in  all  directions. 

The  pathway  to  the  foot  of  the  bridge  (adm.  60c.)  descends  along  a 
tumbling  brook,  overhung  by  grand  old  arbor  vitae  trees.  The  “^View  of 
the  arch  from  below  is  very  imposing.  Among  the  names  upon  the  smooth 
side  of  the  archway  is  that  of  (>eorge  Washington  (W.  side,  about  25  ft. 
up),  which  was  the  highest  of  all  until  a student  named  Piper  actually 
climbed  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  of  the  arch  in  1818.  We  pass  under 
the  bridge  and  follow  the  path  up  the  glen  to  (1  M.)  the  small  but  pretty 
Lace  Falls,  passing  Saltpetre  Gave,  Hemlock  Island,  and  the  Lost  River.  We 
then  return  to  the  gate-house  and  follow  the  road  crossing  the  bridge,  so 
as  to  enjoy  the  *Views  from  the  top  (from  Pulpit  Rock,  Cedar  Cliff,  etc.). 
A pleasant  path  leads  from  the  bridge  along  the  edge  of  Rock  Rvnmon, 
on  the  top  of  the  right  (W.)  bank  of  the  ravine  of  Cedar  Brook  (views). 
— Continuing  to  follow  the  road  we  soon  come  in  sight  of  the  (^4  M.) 
view-tower  on  Mt.  Jefferson,  which  commands  a splendid  Wiew  of  the  Blue 
Ridge  (E.),  the  Peaks  of  Otter  (S.E. ; p.  422),  Purgatory  Mt.  (S.),  House  Mt.  (N.), 
and  North  Mt.  (W.).  — The  view  from  J/L  Lincoln  is  said  to  be  even  better. 

239  M.  Roanoke,  and  thence  to  (390  M.)  Bristol,  see  R.  67b. 


69.  From  Salisbury  to  Asheville  and  Morristown. 

228  M.  Southern  Railway  to  (141  M ) Asheville  in  472-672  hrs.  (fare 
$4.60^  sleeper  $ 2);  to  (228  M.)  Morristown  in  672-9  hrs.  (fare  $ 7.30;  sleeper 
f 2).  From  New  York  to  Asheville  in  21-25  hrs.  (fare  $21.46;  sleeper  $5.) 


ASHEVILLE. 


69.  Route.  431 


This  railway  gives  access  to  the  beautiful  scenery  of  Western  North 
Carolina  (‘Land  of  the  Sky’),  which  may  he  described  as  a plateau  with 
an  average  altitude  of  2000  ft.,  250  M.  long  and  25  M.  wide,  bounded  by 
the  Great  Smoky  MU.  (p.  425)  on  the  W.  and  by  the  Blue  Ridge  (p.  429) 
on  the  E.  It  is  crossed  by  several  spurs  of  the  main  chain,  including  the 
Black.^  the  Balsam.,  the  Pisgah.,  the  Cowee.,  and  the  Nantahala  ranges.  Many 
of  these  are  higher  than  the  main  chains,  the  Black  Mts.  alone  containing 
19  peaks  over  6000  ft.  in  height.  The  district  is  watered  by  numerous  rivers 
that  rise  in  the  Blue  Ridge  and  flow  with  a steep  decline  and  rapid  cur- 
rent across  this  plateau,  cutting  through  the  Great  Smokies  on  their  way 
to  the  Mississippi.  The  French  Broad.,  the  Pigeon.,  the  Tuckaseegee.,  and  the 
Little  Tennessee  are  the  chief  of  these.  In  this  way  the  country  is  cross- 
sectioned  into  many  smaller  valleys,  affording  endlesjs  variety  of  scenery. 
The  fact  that  even  the  highest  mountains  are  densely  wooded  to  their  tops 
adds  much  to  the  picturesqueness  and  softens  the  outlines  of  the  landscape, 

Salisbury,  see  p.  418.  The  line  runs  towards  the  W.  26  M. 
Statesville  (955  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Taylorsville  and  Charlotte 
(p.  418).  Near  (38  M.)  Catawba  we  cross  the  Catawba.  48  M.  Newton 
(1070  ft.).  The  main  Blue  Ridge  (p.  429)  soon  comes  into  sight  on 
the  right,  while  various  spurs  are,  seen  in  the  distance  to  the  left.  — 
58  M.  Hickory  (1140  ft.;  Hickory  Inn,  $2-3,  meal  75  c.). 

From  Hickory  a narrow-gauge  railway  runs  to  (20  M.)  Lenoir  (Lenoir 
Inn,  Clark,  Commercial,  all  ^2),  whence  a drive  of  4 hrs.  brings  us  to 
Blowing  Rock  {Blowing  Rock  Hotel,  $2-21/2;  Green  Park  Ho.,  from  $2), 
2 M.  from  the  famous  precipice  and  mountain  of  this  name  (4()00  ft.). 
The  *View  from  the  latter  is  superb,  including  the  Grandfather  (5895  ft  ) 
on  the  W.,  the  Pilot  Mt.  (2435  ft.),  100  M.  to  the  E.,  King's  Mt.  ft.) 
to  the  S.,  and  Mitchell's  Peak  (p.  432)  to  the  N.  There  are  several  pretty 
waterfalls  and  other  points  of  interest  in  the  vicinity. 

To  the  left,  at  (79  M.)  Morganton  (1185  ft.),  is  the  large  State 
Lunatic  Asylum.  We  enter  the  mountain-district  proper  at  (111  M.) 
Old  Fort  (1450  ft.)  and  ascend  abruptly  through  a romantic  gorge, 
with  its  rocky  walls  overgrown  by  rhododendrons  (in  blossom  in 
June).  The  engineering  of  the  railway  here  is  interesting,  with  its 
numerous  loops,  tunnels,  cuttings,  and  bridges;  at  one  point  four 
sections  of  the  line  lie  perpendicularly  one  above  the  other.  At  the 
head  of  the  gorge  we  thread  a long  tunnel  and  reach  the  plateau  of 
Western  North  Carolina  (see  above).  — 125  M.  Black  Mt.  Station. 

About  2 M.  from  this  station  (good  road)  lies  Montreal  (Hotel  Montreat, 
$ 3),  beautifully  situated  at  the  headwaters  of  the  Swannanoa.  It  forms 
a convenient  starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Mitchell  (p.  432)  and 
other  peaks. 

139  M.  Biltmore  (see  p.  432). 

141  M.  Asheville.  — Hotels.  Battery  Park  Hotel,  on  a hill  above 
the  town,  from  $4;  Kenilworth  Inn,  2 M.  from  Asheville,  near  Biltmore, 
see  p,  432,  from  $5,  open  all  the  year;  'The  Manor,  with  several  cottages, 
in  Albemarle  Park,  $3-4  according  to  season;  ’"Victoria  Inn,  $21/2-372,  on 
a hill,  with  fine  view;  Swannanoa,  from  $272;  Berkeley,  from  $2;  Glen 
Rock,  at  the  station,  $ 2.  — Electric  Tramway  to  the  station  (172  M.  from 
the  centre  of  the  town)  and  to  Biltmore  and  other  suburbs  (5  c.). 

Asheville  (2350  ft.),  finely  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Swan- 
nanoa and  the  French  Broad.,  is  the  chief  town  of  the  district  and  is 
widely  known  as  a health-resort  for  patients  suffering  from  pulmon^? 
ary  and  other  ailments.  Pop.  (1900)  14,694,  About  70,000  persons 


432  Route  69. 


BILTMORE. 


From  Salisbury 


visit  Asheville  annually,  Southerners  frequenting  it  for  its  compara- 
tive coolness  in  summer  (mean  temp.  72®)  and  Northerners  for  its 
mildness  in  winter  (39®)  and  spring  (53®;  chief  seasons,  July  and 
Aug.,  Feh.  and  March).  Its  climate  is  dry  and  bright,  and  there  are 
usually  few  days  in  the  year  in  which  out-door  exercise  is  not  en- 
joyable. It  is  said  to  he  pre-eminently  suitable  for  early  stages  of 
phthisis,  while  sufferers  from  asthma,  hay  fever,  nervous  prostration, 
and  the  after-effects  of  fever  all  derive  benefit  from  a sojourn  in 
Asheville.  The  environs  are  full  of  scenic  attractions  and  offer  abund- 
ant opportunities  for  pleasant  walks,  rides,  and  drives. 

Walks.  Beaumont^  V2  to  the  E.^  grounds  open  to  visitors.  — 
Fernihurst^  IV2  M.  to  the  S. , overlooking  the  junction  of  the  Swannanoa 
and  the  French  Broad  (open  daily,  Sun.  excepted).  — Richmond Hill^  2V2M. 
to  the  I^.W.  (always  open).  — Gouches  Peak  (3  M.)  and  Elk  ML  (5  M.),  to 
the  N.  of  the  town,  are  fine  points  of  view.  — About  2 M.  to  the  S.B.  of 
Asheville,  near  Biltmore  station  (p.  431),  is  *Biltmore,  the  home  of  Mr. 
George  W.  Vanderbilt  and  probably  the  finest  private  residence  in  America. 
The  house,  built  in  the  French  baronial  style  by  Richard  M.  Hunt,  at  a 
cost  of  $ 4,000,000,  stands  upon  a terrace  700  ft.  long  by  300  ft.  wide  and 
commands  ma^gniflcent  views.  It  contains  much  fine  tapestry  and  other 
works  of  art.  Near  the  house  is  a tasteful  model  village,  also  designed  by 
R.  M.  Hunt,  with  cottages  grouped  around  a central  green.  A School  of 
Domestic  Science^  for  coloured  girls,  has  been  opened  here.  Many  miles  of 
beautiful  drives  have  been  constructed  in  the  grounds,  which  have  an 
extent  of  over  100,000  acres,  and  they  show  a wonderfully  varied  display  of 
trees  (views).  Visitors  are  admitted  to  the  grounds  on  Tues.,  Thurs.,  & 
Sat.,  1-6  p.m.,  by  passes  obtained  at  the  Biltmore  Office  in  Biltmore  village 
(large  excursion-parties  not  admitted).  Special  passes  sometimes  issued  for 
other  days.  — Most  of  the  Biltmore  Estate  (excepting  6000  acres  round  the 
chateau)  has  been  leased  by  the  Kenilworth  & Pisgah  Forest  Shooting  & Fish- 
ing Association^  which  offers  its  members  and  their  friends  admirable  op- 
portunities of  sport. 

Drives.  Swannanoa  Drive^  extending  for  several  miles  along  the  river, 
the  banks  of  which  are  thickly  wooded  and  covered  with  rhododendrons, 
kalmia,  and  other  wild  flowers.  — Tahkeeosiee  Farm^  3-5  M.  to  the  W.  — 
The  Sulphur  Springs^  4^/2  M.  to  the  S.,  may  be  reached  by  electric  car 
(fare  15  c.).  — *Hickory  Nut  Gap,  a beautiful  pass  where  the  Broad  River 
penetrates  the  Blue  Ridge,  lies  14  M.  to  the  S.E.  About  9 M.  beyond  the 
entrance  to  the  Gap  is  the  curious  Chimney  Rock.  On  the  opposite  side 
rises  Bald  Mt.  (3860  ft.),  celebrated  in  Mrs.  Frances  Hodgson  BurneWs  ‘Es- 
meralda’. There  are  two  plain  hotels  not  far  from  Chimney  Rock.  Other 
points  of  interest  are  the  Pools  and  the  Hickory  Nut  Falls  (1300  ft.).  — 
Arden  Park  (Hotel,  $2),  10  M.  to  the  S. 

Longer  Excursions  and  Mountain  Ascents.  *Mt.  Mitchell  or  Black 
Dome  (6710  ft.),  the  highest  peak  in  the  United  States  to  the  E.  of  the  Rocky 
Mts.,  rises  in  the  Black  Mts.,  18  M.  to  the  E.  of  Asheville.  Its  base  may  be 
reached  by  carriage  along  the  Swannanoa  or  by  railway  to  Black  Mt.  Station 
(p.  431)  and  thence  (10 M.)  by  carriage.  The  ascent  (arduous  but  not  dangerous) 
takes  5 hrs.  The  *View  is  very  extensive.  Provisions  and  horses  may  be 
obtained  at  the  Hotel  Montreat  (p.  431),  and  the  night  is  usually  spent  in  a 
shallow  cave  near  the  top.  The  name  is  derived  from  Prof.  Elisha  Mitchell.^ 
who  lost  his  life  here  in  1857,  while  determining  the  height  of  the  mountain, 
and  is  buried  at  the  summit.  — *Mt.  Pisgah  (5755  ft.),  one  of  the  loftiest 
peaks  near  Asheville,  lies  18  M.  to  the  S.W.  and  commands  a splendid 
view  of  the  French  Broad  Valley.  Accommodation  for  the  night  can  be 
obtained  in  a farmhouse  at  the  base,  and  the  ascent  may  be  made  on 
horseback  in  2 hrs.  — Craggy  Mt.  (6090  ft.),  an  outlier  of  the  Blue  Ridge, 
14  M.  to  the  E.,  may  be  ascended  on  horseback  in  2 hrs.  (best  in  June, 
when  hundreds  of  acres  of  rhododendrons,  kalmias,  azaleas,  and  heather 


to  Morristown* 


HOT  SPRINGS. 


69.  Route.  433 


may  be  seen  in  bloom).  — *C39sar’s  Head  (3225  ft.),  an  outlier  of  the  Blue 
Ridge,  45  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Asheville,  may  be  reached  either  by  carriage 
the  whole  way  or  by  train  to  Brevard  (see  below)  and  carriage  thence.  On 
the  S.  side  of  the  mountain  is  a precipice  1500  ft.  high,  overlooking  the 
low  country  of  South  Carolina  and  Georgia  for  100  M.  At  the  summit  stands 
a fair  hotel  ($  2).  Various  points  of  interest  are  passed  on  the  way.  — 
Other  distant  points  visited  from  Asheville  are  Hot  Springs  (see  below). 
Highlands  (p.  419),  Roan  Mt.  (p.  424),  Tryon,  and  Blowing  Rock  (p.  431). 

Fkom  Asheville  to  Spaetanburg,  70  M.,  railway  in  3^3-3^ U lirs.  — This 
line  runs  towards  the  S.E.  22  M.  Hendersonville  (2165  ft. ; The  Wheeler, 
from  $ 3 ^ Imperial  Hotel,  from  $ 2V2)  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  Lake 
Toxoway  (see  below).  Farther  on  the  train  reaches  the  picturesque  •Saluda 
Gap,  where  it  descends  rapidly  through  a narrow  gorge.  Fine  views  (best 
to  the  left).  Rhododendrons  numerous.  — 70  M.  Spartanburg.^  see  p.  418. 

From  Henderson  to  Lake  Toxoway,  48  M.,  Transylvania  Railroad  in 
22/3  hrs.  This  railway  penetrates  to  the  heart  of  the  so-called  ’■Sapphire 
Country\  a beautiful  lake  district,  elevated  about  3000  ft.  above  the  sea. 
— The  chief  intermediate  station  is  (22  M.)  Brevard  (Franklin  Inn,  $ 21/2), 
whence  numerous  pleasant  excursions  may  be  made.  It  is  one  of  the 
nearest  stations  to  (16  M.)  Caesar'^s  Head  (see  above).  — 48  M.  Lake  Toxoway 
{^"Toxoway  Inn.^  $ 3).  The  most  accessible  of  the  neighbouring  mountains 
is  Mt.  Toxoway  (5000  ft.  ^ The  Lodge,  $ 2),  which  commands  a fine  view 
of  the  district,  including  100  other  peaks  and  extending  to  the  Smoky 
Mts.  of  Tennessee  (p.  425).  Two  other  charming  sheets  of  water,  each 
about  7 M.  from  Lake  Toxoway,  are  Lake  Fairfield  (Fairfield  Inn,  $ 3-4) 
and  Lake  Sapphire  ($  2V2),  a favourite  fishing-resort. 

From  Asheville  to  Murphy,  124  M.,  railway  in  6V4  hrs.  The  line 
runs  towards  the  S.W.  28  M.  Waynesville  (2755  ft.;  White  Sulphur  Springs 
Ho.,  from  $ 3)  lies  amid  the  Balsam  Mts..^  five  of  which  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  are  over  6000  ft.  high.  — 36  M.  Balsam  (Rail.  Restaurant).  49  M. 
Dillshoro  lies  32  M.  to  the  N.  of  Highlands  (p.  419),  which  is  sometimes 
approached  hence.-—  124  M.  Murphy. 

Beyond  Asheville  the  Morristown  Train  runs  to  the  N.  through 
the  beautiful  valley  of  the  French  Broad  River.  Picturesque  scenery 
(views  first  to  the  right,  then  to  the  left,  and  then  to  the  right  agaiiO. 
153  M.  Alexander. 

179  M.  Hot  Springs  (1325  ft. ; ^Mountain  Park  Hotel,  $ 21/2-5), 
situated  in  a beautiful  little  valley,  1 M.  in  diameter,  surrounded  by 
mountains  3-4000  ft.  high,  has  long  been  frequented  for  its  hot 
springs  and  delightful  climate  (winter  milder  than  at  Asheville). 
The  springs  (temp.  84-104®)  are  efficacious  in  rheumatism,  gout, 
sciatica,  skin  and  blood  affections,  and  nervous  prostration.  Pleasant 
walks  may  be  taken  among  the  hills , but  the  drives  are  limited  to 
those  up  and  down  the  river.  Round  Top  (1840  ft.),  to  the  N.,  across 
the  river,  is  easily  ascended  in  1/2  hr.  and  commands  a good  view. 

At  (184  m.)  Paint  Rock  [1276  ft.)  the  French  Broad  forces  its  way 
through  a gap  between  the  Great  Smoky  Mts.  (left)  and  the  Bald 
Mts.  (right).  We  enter  Tennessee. 

At  (228  M.)  Morristown  [Virginia  Ho.,  $2)  we  join  the  line 
from  Washington  to  Chattanooga  (see  R.  67b). 


Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


28 


434 


70.  From  Richmond  to  Charleston. 

a.  Vi^  Weldon. 

396  M.  Railway  (Atlantic  Coast  Line)  in  9V4-143/4  lirs.  (fare  $ 12.35  •, 
sleeper  $ 3).  This  line  forms  part  of  the  ‘Atlantic  Coast  Line  Route’  from 
New  York  to  Florida  (see  R.  75a;  from  New  York  to  Charleston  in  19V4- 
26  hrs. ; fare  $ 20.50,  sleeper  $ 4.50). 

From  Richmond  to  (23  M.)  Petersburg , see  p.  416.  Some  remains 
of  the  fortifications  of  tlie  Civil  War  are  still  visible  (see  p.  416). 
Near  (76  M.)  Pleasant  Hill  we  enter  North  Carolina.  At  (84  M.) 
Weldon  (70  ft.)  we  intersect  tbe  Seaboard  Air  Line  from  Norfolk 
(see  p.  414).  Tbe  train  now  traverses  a flat  region,  clothed  with 
endless  pine-forests.  121  M.  Rocky  Mounts  tbe  junction  of  lines  to 
Norfolk  (p.  414)  and  to  (75  M.)  Plymouth.,  on  Albemarle  Sound.  At 
(137  M.)  Wilson  tbe  line  forks,  tbe  new  ‘Short  Cut’  running  in  a 
straight  direction,  while  the  line  to  (24  M.)  Goldsboro  (comp.  p.  418) 
and  (108  M.)  Wilmington  diverges  to  the  left. 

Wilmington  (Orton.,  $ 21/2;  Ocean  View.,  $ 21/2,  at  Carolina  Beach;  Sea 
Shore  Hotel.,  at  Wrights ville  Beach,  $ 2^/2 ; British  vice-consul,  Mr.  James 
Sprunt).,  the  largest  city  of  North  Carolina  (20,976  inhab.),  lies  on  the  Cape 
Fear  River.,  20  M.  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  has  a large  foreign  commerce 
and  regular  steamship-communication  with  New  York,  Philadelphia,  and 
Baltimore.  It  is  a prominent  market  for  naval  stores.  The  Atlantic  Coast 
Line  (see  above)  has  its  headquarters  here.  — From  Wilmington  a railway 
runs  to  the  N.  to  (81  M.)  Hew  Bern  (p.  418). 

163  M.  Selma,  the  junction  of  a line  to  Raleigh  (see  p.  418) ; 211 M, 
Fayetteville,  the  junction  of  lines  to  Sanford  and  Greensboro  (p.  418), 
to  Bennettsville,  and  to  Wilmington  (see  above). 

On  the  Bennettsville  line,  25  M.  from  Fayetteville,  lies  Red  Springs 
(Townsend  Hotel),  a frequented  resort  with  two  mineral  springs.  In 
summer  a coach  runs  hence  to  Southern  Pines  (p.  428). 

243  M.  Pembroke,  the  junction  of  a line  to  Charlotte  (p.  418). 
At  (281  M.)  Pee  Dee  we  are  rejoined  by  the  Wilmington  loop-line. 
— 294  M.  Florence  (Central  Hotel,  $ 2-3 ; Jacobi,  from  $ 2),  with 
4647  inhab.,  is  a cotton-market  and  railway-centre  of  some  im- 
portance. We  here  turn  sharply  to  the  left  (S.).  — 342  M.  Lane's 
is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (37  M.)  Georgetown  (Windsor,  Win  yah 
Inn,  $ 2),  a quaint  old  seaport  (400  inhab.).  390  M.  Ashley  Junction 
(comp.  pp.  439,  444). 

396  M.  Charleston,  see  p.  435. 


b.  Nik  Charlotte  and  Columbia. 

520  M.  Southern  Railway  in  14^/4  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

Richmond,  see  p.408.  The  train  crosses  the  James,  passes  (IM.) 
Manchester  (p.  409),  and  runs  to  the  S.W.  through  a tobacco-grow- 
ing district.  At  (53  M.)  Burkeville  (520  ft.)  we  intersect  the  Nor- 
folk & Western  R.  R.  (R.  67b).  73M.  AeT/swZ^e  (625  ft.).  At(90M.) 
Randolph  we  cross  the  Staunton.  From  (109  M.)  South  Boston  we 
follow  the  Dan  River  to  (141  M.)  Danville  (p.  418). 


M Isleof^alms 


Jetties 


-i^-i  S zoo.  ca'cE 


CM  M M CM  CM  M <M 

-<pqp3<pqpqM 


UfWm 


COLUMBIA. 


70.  Route.  435 


From  Danville  to  (282  M.J  Charlotte,  see  p.  418.  We  here  di- 
verge to  the  left  from  the  route  to  New  Orleans  (R.  67a).  Beyond 
(299  M.)  Fort  Mill  we  cross  the  Catawha  River.  307  M.  Rock  Hill' 
326  M.  Chester. 


391  M.  Columbia  (300  ft. ; Wright,  $ 2-4 ; Columbia  Hotel,  from 
$ 21/2;  Caldwtll  House,  $ 2),  the  capital  of  South  Carolina,  lieson  the 
high  hanks  of  the  Congaree,  in  the  district  of  the  Pine  Barrens.  Pop. 
(1900)  21 , 108.  Its  streets  are  wide  and  shady,  and  many  of  the  public 
buildings  are  imposing.  The  most  important  is  the  ^State  House, 
in  the  grounds  of  which  is  a fine  monument  to  the  ‘Palmetto  Regi- 
ment’, which  served  with  distinction  in  the  Mexican  War  (1846-47). 
Other  large  edifices  are  the  State  Penitentiary,  the  Lunatic  Asylum. 
the  Court  House,  and  the  City  Hall.  The  South  Carolina  College  is 
attended  by  225  students.  The  grounds  of  the  Executive  Mansion 
and  Arsenal  Hill  command  fine  views  of  the  valley.  Pleasant  drives 
may  be  taken  in  the  Fair  Grounds  and  Sydney  Park.  The  city  pos- 
sesses large  car,  machine,  and  iron  works. 


Columbia  became  the  state-capital  in  1796.  In  1832  the  ‘Nullification 
convention  sitting  here;  and  on  Dec.  20th, 
IcbO,  another  convention  announced  the  dissolution  of  the  union  between 
o.  Carolina  and  the  other  states.  The  city  was  occupied  by  Gen.  Sher- 
man in  1865  and  suffered  severely  from  fire. 

From  Columbia  to  (67  M.)  Spartanburg,  see  p.  418  to  Augusta,  see  p.  438. 

Beyond  Columbia  our  line  passes  through  a level,  pine-clad 
district.  414  M.  Kingville  is  the  junction  of  branch-lines  to  (38  M ) 
Camden  (p.  445)  and  to  (24  M.)  Sumter.  — At  (457  M.)  Branch- 
ville  (Rail.  Restaurant)  we  join  the  line  described  in  R.  72. 

520  M.  Charleston,  see  below. 


71.  Charleston. 


^ 2V2-6;  Akgyle  (PI.  h;  B,  2),  Meeting 
2),  Meeting  St.,  Calhoun  (PI.  cl 
B,  2),  $ 2-272  (these  two  closed  at  present). 

Electric  Tramways  traverse  the  chief  streets  (5  c.)  and  run  to  various 
suburban  points.  — Omnibuses  meet  the  principal  trains  (return -ticket 
ou  c.). 

Steamers  ply  to  New  YorTc  (50hrs.;  fare  $20),  Boston,  Savannah,  George- 
town, Beaufort,  and  Jacksonville.  A small  steamer  plies  twice  daily  from 
Custom  House  Wharf  to  Mt.  Pleasant,  Sullivan"'s  Island,  and  Fort  Sumter 
(IV2  hr.,  there  and  back;  fare  $ 1). 

cf  Meeting  and  Broad  Sts.  — British  Consul, 

ho  and  Tennessee),  Col.  H.  W.  de  Coetlogon, 

King  s\^  Battery.  — Grand  Opera  House,  Meeting  St.;  Academy  of  Music, 


Charleston,  the  largest  city  of  South  Carolina  and  one  of  the  chief 
seaports  of  the  Southern  States,  occupies  the  end  of  the  narrow  pen- 
insula formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Ashley  and  Cooper  Rivers, 
about  6 M.  from  their  embouchure  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  is  a 
pleasant  old-fashioned  town,  with  its  main  streets  well  paved  and 

28* 


436  Route  71. 


CHARLESTON. 


St.  MichaeVs. 


numerous  picturesque  private  residences  embowered  in  semi-tropical 
flowers  and  trees.  Pop.  (1900)  55,807,  more  than  half  of  wbom  are 
coloured.  The  land-locked  harbour,  since  recent  deepening  and 
improvements,  admits  vessels  of  30  ft.  draught. 

The  small  body  of  colonists  under  Col.  Sayle,  sent  out  by  the  lords 
proprietors  to  take  possession  of  the  Carolinas  in  1669,  after  calling  at 
Port  Royal  settled  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Ashley  River,  but  soon  (ca. 
1680)  transferred  their  town,  named  in  honour  of  Charles  II.,  to  its  present 
site.  In  1685-86  numerous  Huguenot  emigrants  were  added  to  the  population, 
and  I'iOO  exiles  from  Acadia  settled  here  in  1755.  Charleston  took  a pro- 
minent share  in  the  Revolution,  repelled  an  attack  on  Sullivan'' s Island 
(PI.  F,  3)  in  1776  (Col.  Moultrie),  and  was  captured  by  Sir  Henry  Clinton 
in  1780  after  an  obstinate  defence.  The  Civil  War  began  at  Charleston 
with  the  bombardment  of  Fort  Sumter  (PI.  E,  4^  April  12- 1 3th,  1861),  and 
the  city  was  more  than  once  attacked  by  the  Unionists  in  the  ensuing  years, 
being  linally  evacuated  in  Feb.,  1865.  In  1886  Charleston  was  devastated 
by  a severe  earthquake,  which  rendered  seven-eighths  of  its  houses  un- 
inhabitable, destroyed  property  to  the  value  of  $8,000,000,  and  killed 
scores  of  persons.  A few  traces  of  its  action  are  still  visible  in  the  form 
of  ruined  buildings  and  iron  stays  and  clamps. 

Before  the  war  Charleston  was  the  chief  cotton -shipping  port  of 
America,  and  it  still  handles  a good  deal  of  cotton  and  rice.  Its  present 
prosperity  is,  however,  chiefly  due  to  the  discovery  of  extensive  beds  of 
excellent  phosphates  near  the  Ashley  River ^ and  the  annual  value  of  the 
exports  of  this  article  (including  fertilizers)  amounts  to  about  $ 10,000,000. 
A visit  to  the  phosphate-mines  is  interesting.  Charleston  also  carries  on  a 
considerable  trade  in  timber,  fruit,  and  vegetables,  and  manufactures 
cotton,  flour,  carriages,  machines,  and  other  articles  (value  in  1900, 
$ 9,562,500). 

Following  Meeting  Street  (PI.  A,  B,  1,  2),  the  chief  wholesale 
business  street,  from  Southern  Fk,ailw ay  Station  (PI.  B,  1)  towards 
White  Point  (p.  437),  we  pass  Marion  or  Citadel  Square,  adorned 
with  a statue  of  John  C.  Calhoun  (1782-1850),  the  famous  S.  Carolina 
statesman.  On  the  N.  side  of  the  square  is  the  large  South  Carolina 
Military  Academy,  usually  known  as  the  Citadel  (PI.  B,  1),  the 
cadets  of  which  took  a prominent  share  in  the  Civil  War  (see  p.  437). 
— Farther  on  we  pass  the  Argyle  and  Charleston  Hotels  (p.  435); 
the  Market  (PI.  K;  B 2;  interesting  sight  6-9  a.m.) ; the  Circular 
Church  (PI.  B;  left),  rebuilt  some  years  ago  in  a handsome  style; 
the  new  Gibhes  Memorial  Art  Gallery  (PI.  H),  opposite  the  last; 
the  St.  John  Hotel  (p.  435);  and  the  Commercial  Club  (right).  At 
the  intersection  of  the  street  with  Broad  Street  (PI.  B,  2)  stands 
a group  of  public  buildings:  the  Court  House  (PI.  F)  and  Post  Office 
(PI.  P;  a handsome  granite  edifice)  to  the  right  and  the  City  Hall 
(PI.  C;  with  some  interesting  portraits)  and  St.  MichaePs  Church 
(PI.  S;  built  in  1752-61;  comp.  p.  xc)  to  the  left. 

St.  Micbael’s  was  struck  six  times  by  the  Federal  cannon  during  the 
siege,  was  damaged  by  a cyclone  in  1885,  and  nearly  destroyed  by  the 
earthquake  in  1886.  Its  flne  tower  commands  an  extensive  view  and  con- 
tains a good  set  of  chimes.  In  the  churchyard,  close  to  the  iron  gate  in 
Broad  St.,  is  the  tomb  of  a brother  of  Arthur  Hugh  Clough,  with  an 
epitaph  by  the  poet,  who  spent  part  of  his  boyhood  in  Charleston,  where 
his  father  was  a cotton-merchant. 

In  front  of  the  City  Hall  is  a Statue  of  William  Pitt.,  erected  in 
1770^  the  right  arm  was  broken  off  by  a British  cannon-shot  in  1780. 


Custom  House. 


CHARLESTON. 


71.  Route.  437 


Farther  on,  Meeting  St.  passes  numerous  private  houses,  embowered 
in  roses,  jessamines,  and  myrtles.  It  ends  at  *White  Point  Garden 
(PI.  V ; B,  3),  shaded  with  beautiful  live-oaks  and  commanding  a fine 
view  across  the  Ashley  River.  The  Jasper  Monument  commemorates 
a gallant  act  in  the  defence  of  Fort  Moultrie  (June  28th,  1776).  Ad- 
jacent are  a bronze  Bast  of  Wm.  Gilmore  Simms  (d.  1870}  and  a 
round  tower  made  of  blocks  of  phosphate  (see  p.  436).  To  the  E. 
extends  the  Battery  (PI.  B,  2,  3),  a broad  esplanade,  500  yds.  long, 
affording  a good  view  of  the  harbour  and  its  forts. 

On  the  island  opposite  the  battery  is  Castle  Pinc}:ney  (PI.  C,  2),  and  farther 
out  is  Fort  Ripley  (PI.  C,  B,  3),  while  Forts  Moultrie  (PI,  F,  3)  and  Johnson 
(PI.  D,  4)  stand  opposite  each  other  on  Sullivan'‘s  Island  (left)  and  James 
Island  (right).  Modern  fortifications  have  been  erected  on  Sullivan’s  Is- 
land, and  in  1897  a company  of  U.  S.  troops  was  stationed  there  for  the 
first  time  since  the  Civil  War.  Fort  Sumter  (PI.  E,  4)  occupies  a small 
island  in  the  middle  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbour.  The  first  shot  in 
thp  Civil  War  was  fired  by  the  Citadel  cadets  (p.  436),  from  a battery  thrown 
up  on  Morris  Island  (beyond  PI.  E,  4),  against  a vessel  trying  to  take  rein- 
forcements to  the  Union  troops  in  Fort  Sumter  (Jan.  9th,  1861),  On  April 
12th  Fort  Moultrie  and  the  other  batteries  opened  fire  on  Fort  Sumter,  which 
had  been  occupied  by  Major  Anderson  with  a small  body  of  Union  troops, 
and  its  flag  was  hauled  down  on  the  following  day.  In  1883  the  Federal 
fleet  invested  the  harbour  and  began  a bombardment  of  the  forts  and  the 
city,  which  lasted,  with  scarcely  an  intermission,  till  the  final  evacuation 
of  Charleston  in  1865.  Morris  Island  had  to  be  abandoned,  but  Forts 
Sumter  and  Moultrie  defended  themselves  successfully  against  all  attacks. 
Steamer  to  Fort  Sumter,  etc.,  see  p.  435. 

We  now  return  along  East  Bay  (PI.  B,  1,  2),  passing  tbe  old  Post 
Office,  to  tbe  Custom  House  (PI.  G),  built  of  white  marble  (view  of 
harbour  from  back).  A visit  may  also  be  paid  to  one  of  the  Cotton 
Compresses  (no  smoking)  in  this  locality. 

Charleston  prides  itself,  with  some  reason,  on  its  charitable  in- 
stitutions. Perhaps  the  most  prominent  of  these  is  the  Orphan  House 
(PI.  N ; B,  1) , founded  in  1792  and  said  to  be  the  oldest  American 
institution  of  the  kind.  The  Enston  Home  (beyond  PI.  A,  1),  in  King 
St.,  consists  of  a group  of  40  cottages,  with  a church. 

Other  important  buildings  are  the  College  of  Charleston  (PI.  E ; 
B,  2),  founded  in  1788;  St.  Philip's  Church  (PI.  T;  B,  2),  Church 
St.,  with  Calhoun’s  grave  in  the  churchyard  (on  the  other  side  of  the 
street) ; St.  Finbar's  Cathedral  (R.  C;  PI.  R,  B 2),  rebuilt  in  1890 ; the 
old  Huguenot  Church  (Pi.  I ; liturgy  translated  from  the  French)  • the 
Medical  College  (PI.  L);  the  old  Powder  Magazine.,  now  used  as  a 
Chapter  Room  by  the  ‘Colonial  Dames’ ; tbe  Porter  Military  Academy 
(PI.  0;  A,  1);  the  Auditorium  (PI.  A;  A,  2),  now  disused;  and 
the  Boper  Hospital  (PI.  Q ; B,  2).  The  Avery  Normal  School  has 
400  coloured  students. 

To  tbeN.  of  the  city,  3M.  from  the  City  Hall  (tramway  10  c. ; carr.  there 
and  back  $5),  lies  "Magnolia  Cemetery,  which  should  be  visited  for  its  fine 
live-oaks  (draped  with  ‘Spanish  moss'),  azaleas,  magnolias,  camelias,  al- 
mond-trees, etc.  (best  in  May  or  June).  The  boughs  of  one  of  the  live-oaks 
have  a spread  of  100  ft.,  and  the  trunk  of  another  is  17-18  ft.  in  girth.  — 
Hampton  Park  (PI.  A,  1),  to  the  N.W.  of  the  city,  was  in  1901-2  the  seat 
of  a large  Exhibition,  some  of  the  buildings  of  which  are  still  standing. 


438  Route  72. 


AUGUSTA. 


No  one  in  tlie  season  (March-May)  should  omit  to  visit  the  (12  M.)  *"Gar- 
dens  of  Magnolia  (reached  by  railway  or  steamer),  on  the  Ashley,  the 
chief  glory  of  which  is  the  gorgeous  display  of  the  azalea  bushes,  which 
are  sometimes  15-20  ft.  high  and  present  huge  masses  of  vivid  and  unbroken 
colouring.  The  live-oaks,  magnolias,  and  japonicas  are  also  very  fine. 

The  "^Church  of  St.  James's  Goosecreek.,  an  interesting  relic  of  1711,  lies 
in  the  heart  of  a forest  1 M.  from  (L5  M.)  Otranto  Station.  Otranto  was 
the  residence  of  Dr.  Alex.  Garden  (i- 1791),  after  whom  Linnseus  named 
the  gardenia.  Near  the  church  is  a farm  known  as  The  Oaks.,  from  a 
magnificent  '^Avenue  of  Oaks  (200  years  old)  which  leads  to  it. 

Electric  Cars  run  from  (Charleston  to  (7  M.)  Chicora  Park  (return-fare 
20  c.)  and  via  Mt.  Pleasant  (PI.  E,  1)  and  Sullivan"' s Island  (PI.  F,  3;  AUantic 
Beach  Hotel,  $ 2V2)  to  (10  M.)  Isle  of  Palms.,  a resort  on  the  Atlantic  coast 
(return-fare  25  c.).  Osceola  (p.  449)  died  as  a captive  at  Fort  Moultrie  (PI.  F,  3) 
and  is  buried  on  Sullivan's  Island. 


72.  From  Charleston  to  Augusta. 

138  M.  Southern  Railway  in  5-8  hrs.  (fare  $4.50;  parlor-car  75  c.). 

Charleston^  see  p.  435.  The  line  runs  slightly  to  the  N.  of  W. 
16  M.  Woodstock.  — 22  M.  Summerville  [Pine  Forest  Inn.,  from  $ 5, 
winter  only;  Dorchester  Inn,  $ 2^/2),  a favourite  winter-resort  among 
the  pines  and  much  frejijuented  by  the  citizens  of  Charleston.  There 
are  many  beautiful  drives  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  fair  fishing  and 
shooting  are  within  easy  reach.  Its  golf-links  are  good. 

Near  Summerville  is  Pinehurst  Tea  Plantation  (Dr.  Shepard's),  the  only 
one  in  the  United  States.  Its  annual  produce  amounts  to  about  2000  lbs. 

42  M.  PregnalVs  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  Sumter  (p.  435). 

63  M.  Branchville  (Rail.  Restaurant)  is  the  junction  of  the  line 
to  Columbia  (see  p.  435).  Our  line  continues  to  run  towards  the 
W.  and  at  (91  M.)  Blackville  intersects  the  line  from  Columbia  to 
Savannah  (see  p.  440). 

121  M.  Aiken  (560  ft. ; Park  in  the  Pines,  from  $ 5 ; Magnolia 
Inn,  winter  only,  from  $ 2^/2 ; Mken  Hotel,  from  $ 2),  with  4000  in- 
hab.,  a popular  winter -resort,  much  resorted  to  by  consumptive 
and  rheumatic  patients  and  others.  It  lies  in  the  ‘sand  hill’  or  ‘pine 
barren’  district  of  S.  Carolina,  and  is  surrounded  by  vast  forests  of 
fragrant  pines,  growing  in  a soil  of  white  sand.  The  gardens  of 
the  town,  thanks  to  careful  cultivation  and  a liberal  use  of  fertili- 
zers, are  full  of  jessamine,  orange-trees,  and  other  S.  plants.  The 
air  is  dry  and  balmy.  The  mean  temperature  of  winter  is  50®  Fahr., 
of  spring  57®,  of  autumn  64®.  The  Palmetto  Oolf  Links  (18  holes) 
at  Aiken  are  the  best  in  the  S.  and  the  scene  of  various  important 
competitions.  Fox-hunting,  racing,  polo,  tennis,  squash,  and  cricket 
are  also  among  the  amusements. 

Extensive  deposits  of  kaoline  occur  near  the  town , and  this  contains 
a large  percentage  of  aluminium,  for  the  extraction  of  which  large  works 
have  been  recently  erected. 

138  M.  Augusta  (180  ft. ; *Bon  Air  Hotel,  at  Summerville,  p.  439, 
$4-5;  Albion;  Turkish  Baths  Hotel,  R.  from  $ 1 ; ^Hampton  Terrace, 
N.  Augusta,  1/4  hr.  by  trolley  from  Augusta,  from  $ 5),  the  third  city 


BEAUFORT. 


73.  Route.  439 


of  Georgia  (39,441  inhab.),  pleasantly  situated  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Savannah,  at  the  head  of  navigation,  and  connected  by  a bridge 
with  Hamburg  (S.  0.)  on  the  left  bank.  It  carries  on  a large  trade  in 
cotton  (200,000  bales  yearly),  and  its  cotton  mills,  run  by  a system  of 
Water  Power  Canals^  produce  more  unbleached  cotton  goods  than  any 
other  city  in  America  (value  of  manufactures  in  1900,  $10,000,000). 
The  main  canal,  bringing  water  from  the  Savannah,  is  7 M.  long, 
150ft.  wide,  and  14  ft.  deep;  it  is  owned  by  the  city,  and  its  revenues 
pay  nearly  the  whole  interest  on  the  municipal  debt.  Broad  Street, 
120  ft.  wide  and  paved  with  asphalt,  is  one  of  the  handsomest 
business-thoroughfares  in  America;  *Oreen  Street,  with  a fine  double 
avenue  of  trees,  is  the  most  beautiful  residence-street.  In  Broad  St. 
is  a handsome  Confederate  War  Monument.  Among  the  chief  build- 
ings are  the  City  Hall,  the  V.  S.  Building,  and  the  Exchange.  The 
Sibley  Cotton  Milt  is  architecturally  noteworthy.  Close  by  it  rises 
the  tall  Chimney  of  the  Confederate  Powder  Mills,  left  standing  as  a 
memorial  of  the  Civil  War.  Eli  Whitney,  who  invented  and  perfected 
the  cotton-gin  in  Georgia,  in  1792,  is  commemorated  by  a statue. 

On  tke  hills  3 M.  to  the  W.  of  Augusta  (electric  tramway)  lies 
ville  (3245  inhab.),  with  a U.  S.  Arsenal  and  the  Bon  Air  Hotel  (p.  438).  — 
Schultz's  Hill,  at  Hamburg  (see  above),  and  the  Fair  Grounds  are  favourite 
resorts. 

Fkom  Augusta  to  Atlanta,  171  M.,  Georgia  R.  R.  in  53/4.6V2  hrs. 
(fare  $5.15;  sleeper  $1.50).  The  chief  intermediate  stations  are  (47  M.) 
Camak,  the  junction  of  a line  to  Macon  (p.  442);  103  M.  Madison,  the  junc- 
tion of  lines  to  Macon  and  Athens  (p.  428);  and  (119  M.)  Social  Circle, 
connecting  with  the  Gainesville,  Jefferson,  and  Southern  R.  R.  — 171  M. 
Atlanta,  see  p.  419. 

From  Augusta  to  Savannah,  see  R.  74.  Other  lines  connect  it  with 
(84  M.)  Tennille  (Augusta  Southern  R.  R. ; a fruit-growing  centre),  Pori  Royal 
(see  below),  Seneca,  Spartanburg  (p.  418),  etc. 


73.  From  Richmond  to  Savannah. 

a.  Via.  Charleston. 

510  M.  Railway  (Atlantic  Coast  Line)  in  15  hrs,  ($  15.30;  sleeper  $ 3.50). 

From  Richmond  to  (396  M.)  Charleston,  see  R.  70  a.  The  line 
turns  to  the  left  (S.)  at  (402  M.)  Ashley  Junction  (p.  434)  and 
traverses  a marshy  district,  with  forests  of  moss-draped  cypress  and 
oak.  At  (457  M.)  Yemassee  we  intersect  the  railway  from  Augusta 
(see  above)  to  Beaufort  and  Port  Royal. 

Beaufort  (Sea  Island  Ho.,  $2-3V2;  Brit,  vice-consul,  also  for  Port  Royal, 
Mr.  J . E.  Kessler),  on  St.  Helena  Island,  is  a fashionable  Southern  resort, 
with  6000  inhab.  and  a fine  shell-road  and  promenade.  — Port  Royal,  with 
one  of  the  finest  harbours  on  the  coast,  was  the  first  landing-place  of 
the  Charleston  settlers  (see  p.  436). 

487  M.  Hardeeville  (p.  440).  We  cross  the  wide  and  slow  Savan- 
nah before  reaching  (497  M.)  Monteith,  and  beyond  it  we  cross  the 
line  from  Augusta  (p.  442). 

510  M.  Savannah,  p.  440. 


440  Route  73. 


SAVANNAH. 


b.  Via.  Danville  and  Columbia. 

544  M.  Southern  Railway  in  16-17  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

From  Richmond  to  (39i  M.^  Columbia.^  see  R.  70b.  Beyond 
Columbia  the  train  runs  to  the  S.  tbrongb  a flat,  wooded  region. 
423  M.  Perry.  At  (443  M.)  Blackville  (p.  438)  we  intersect  the  line 
from  Charleston  to  Augusta  (see  R.  72),  and  at  (469  M.)  Allendale 
we  cross  the  line  from  Augusta  to  Port  Royal  (p.  439).  482  M. 
Valentine;  499  M.  Pineland.  At  (521  M.)  Hardeeville  we  join  the 
Atlantic  Coast  Line.  Hence  to  (544  M.)  Savannah.^  see  p.  439. 

Savannah.  — Hotels.  De  Soto  (PI.  a;  B,  3),  Madison  Sq.,  a large 
and  handsome  house,  $ 3-5*,  Pulaski  (PI.  b*,  B,  1),  Screven  (PI.  B,  2), 
Johnson  Sq.,  $21/2-3. 

Railway  Stations.  Union  Station.^  for  various  lines,  cor.  E.  Broad  and 
Liberty  Sts.  (PI.  D,  3)^  Central  of  Georgia  Railway  Station.,  cor.  W.  Broad 
and  Liberty  Sts.  (PI.  A,  3).  Stations  of  suburban  lines,  see  p.  441.  — 
Tramways  traverse  the  chief  streets  (5c.).  — Steamers  ply  from  the  wharves 
on  the  Savannah , N.  side  of  the  city,  to  New  Yoric  (45-55  hrs. ; $ 20),  Boston., 
Philadelphia^  Baltimore.,  Norfolk.,  Charleston.,  Florida.,  etc. 

Post  Office  (PI.  B,  2),  Whitaker  and  York  Sts.  — Savannah  Theatre 
(PI,  B,  C,  3),  Chippewa  Sq.  (the  oldest  theatre  in  the  United  States^  1818). 
— British  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  Alex.  Harkness.,  89V2  Bay  St. 

Savannah  (‘Forest  City’),  the  second  city  and  chief  commercial 
centre  of  Georgia,  lies  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  river  of  the  same  name, 
on  a bluff  40  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  river  and  18  M.  from  its  mouth. 
It  is  well  built  and  regularly  laid  out,  and  the  beautiful  semi-tropical 
vegetation  of  its  numerous  parks  and  squares  makes  a very  pleasing 
impression.  Bay  Street  is  the  chief  thoroughfare  for  wholesale  business, 
while  Congress  Street  and  Broughton  Street  contain  the  best  shops. 
Bull  Street  is  the  most  fashionable  promenade.  Pop.  (1900)  54,244. 

Savannah  was  settled  in  1733  by  Gen.  Oglethorpe.,  the  founder  of  the 
youngest  of  the  13  original  states,  and  owes  much  of  its  present  beauty 
to  the  foresight  of  the  plan  he  laid  out.  His  object  was  to  provide  an 
asylum  for  the  poor  of  England  and  the  Protestants  of  all  nations.  John 
and  Charles  Wesley  visited  the  settlement  in  1736,  and  George  Whitefield 
reached  it  in  1737.  In  the  early  troubles  between  the  British  and  Spanish 
colonists  Oglethorpe  and  his  settlers  played  a prominent  part,  penetrat- 
ing to  the  walls  of  St.  Augustine  (p.  447).  In  1778  Savannah  was  captured 
by  the  British,  who  repulsed  a Franco -American  attempt  to  retake  it 
the  following  year.  The  port  of  Savannah  was  closed  to  commerce  by 
the  Federal  fleet  from  1861  to  1865,  and  Sherman  occupied  the  city  in 
Dec.,  1864,  at  the  end  of  his  triumphant  ‘March  through  Georgia’  (comp, 
p.  419).  Since  the  war  its  progress  has  been  rapid.  Savannah  contained  5195 
inhab.  in  1810;  15,312  in  1850;  and  43,189  in  1830.  — The  first  steamship 
to  cross  the  Atlantic  Ocean  started  from  Savannah  in  1819, 

Savannah's  export-trade  is  extensive,  the  chief  articles  being  cotton, 
lumber,  rice,  and  naval  stores  (total  value  in  1903,  $ 58,565,372).  Its  manu- 
factures (value  $6,500,000  in  ITO)  include  railway-cars,  fertilizers,  flour, 
and  iron.  A visit  should  be  paid  to  one  of  the  Rice  Mills  (River  St.)  and 
one  of  the  Cotton  Compresses  (at  the  wharves). 

The  visitor  may  begin  with  a glance  at  the  warehouses  and 
wharves  at  the  foot,  and  at  the  busy  traffic  of  Bay  St.  (PI.  A-0, 1)  on 
the  top  of  the  bluffs  overhanging  the  river.  Among  the  buildings  in 
this  part  of  the  city  are  the  City  Exchange  or  City  Hall  (PL  B,  1 ; 
*Yiew  from  tower)  and  the  Custom  House  (PL  B,  1).  We  then 


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SAVANNAH. 


73.  Route.  441 

follow  *Bull  Street  (p.  440)  towards  the  S.,  crossing  Johnson 
Ij  ^3)  with  a JtfonuTnent  to  Gen.  Greene^  erected  in 
1829,  and  th©  recently  restored  Christ  Church  (^good  interior).  In 
the  building  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  Bull  St.  and  Broughton  St.  the 
Ordinance  of  Secession  was  passed  on  Jan.  21st,  1861.  In  Wright 
Square  (PI.  B,  2)  are  the  handsome  County  Court  House,  built  in 
1889-91,  and  the  Federal  Building,  including  the  Post  Office  and 
the  V.  S.  Court  House.  A boulder-monument  in  this  square  com- 
memorates Tom- O- Chi- Chi,  the  Indian  chief  from  whom  Gen.  Ogle- 
thorpe (p.  440)  acquired  the  site  of  Savannah. 

A little  to  the  W.  of  this  point,  in  Telfair  Place,  is  the  "'Telfair 
Academy  (PI.  A,  B,  2;  adm.  10-5,  Sun.  1-6;  25  c.),  which  is  well  worth  a 
visit.  It  contains  a collection  of  casts  (inch  the  ‘Farnese  Bull’),  a selection 
of  paintings,  and  various  objects  of  art  and  historical  interest,  all  brought 
together  under  the  personal  supervision  of  the  present  director,  Mr.  Carl  L. 
manat.  Among  the  paintings  are  good  works  by  Kaulbach.  Julian  Story, 
DucJcer,  Szymanowski,  J.  von  Brandt,  and  C.  L.  Brandt.  The  galleries  are 
adorned  with  mural  paintings  by  Schraudolpli  and  C.  L.  Brandt. 

At  opposite  corners  of  Oglethorpe  Avenue  are  the  Independent 
Presbyterian  Church  (PI.  B,  3)  and  the  Chatham  Academy  (PI  B 3) 

In  Oglethorpe  Ave.,  a little  to  the  E.,  is  the  Colonial  ParkiPl.  C 3)* 
on  the  Site  of  an  interesting  old  burying-ground.  * * 

We  then  cross  Chippewa  Square  (PI.  B,  3)  and  reach  Liberty 
Street,  in  which,  a little  to  the  E.,  is  the  Convent  of  St.  Vincent 
de  Paul  (PI.  0,  3).  The  fine  *Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  which 
stood  close  by,  was  burned  down  in  1898,  but  has  since  been  rebuilt. 
In  Madison  Square  (PI.  B,  3,  4)  is  Colq  J asper  Monument  (comp.  p.  437) 
erected  in  187^  in  honour  of  Sergeant  Jasper,  who  was  killed  at 
Savannah  in  1779.  The  Green  House,  at  the  N.W.  corner  of  the 
square,  was  the  headquarters  of  Gen.  Sherman  (p.  440).  At  the  S.  W. 
corner  is  the  Guards  Armoury.  Monterey  Square  (PI.  B,4)  contains 
the  Pulaski  Monument,  in  memory  of  Count  Pulaski,  who  fell  at  the 
siege  of  Savannah  in  1779  (see  p.  440). 

We  now  reach  the  beautiful  *ForsytliPark  (PI.  B,4,  5),  with  its 
pines,  roses,  coleas,  palmettoes,  oleanders,  jasmines,  cacti,  magnolias, 
etc.  In  the  centre  is  a fountain.  The  Parade  Ground  (PI.  B,  5,  6), 
forming  an  extension  of  the  park  towards  the  S.,  contains  a fine  Con- 
federate War  Monument  (PI.  B,  5).  At  the  S.  end  of  the  Parade 
Ground  is  the  Telfair  Hospital  {VL  B,  0, 6).  The  Memorial  of  General 
Lawton  (1899),  in  Anderson  St.  (beyondPl.  B,6),  deserves  notice. 
At  the  corner  of  Whitaker  and  Gaston  Sts.,  adjoining  Forsyth  Park 
on  the  W.,  is  Hodgson  Hall  (PI.  B,  4),  w'ith  the  library  and  col- 
lections of  the  Georgia  Historical  Society.  The  First  African  Baptist 
Church  (PI.  A,  1,  2),  Franklin  Square,  has  5000  communicants. 

Cemetery,  4 M.  to  tlie  S.,  reached  by  the 
Coast  Line  72.  22.  (station  at  the  cor.  of  Bolton  St.  and  E.  Broad  St.,  PI. 
D,  b)  or  by  the  Ihunderholt  Shell  Road,  i.s  famous  for  its  avenues  of  live- 
? Spanish  moss.  Thunderbolt,  on  the  Thunderbolt  River, 

w M ^ w’;  resort.  - Another  fine  shell-road  leads  to  the 

W.  to  (9M.)  White  Bluff.  — The  City  and  Suburban  Railway  (cor.  Whitaker 


442  Route  74. 


MACON. 


nd  2nd  St.),  runs  to  (6  M.)  Isle  of  Hope.,  on  tlie  Skidaway  River.,  and 
(9  M.)  Montgomery  (return  - ticket  50  c.),  on  the  Vernon  River.,  two  pretty 
suburban  resorts.  Near  the  latter  is  Beaulieu.  At  (8  M.)  Bethesda , on 
this  line,  is  a large  orphanage,  established  by  George  Whitefield  in 
1740.  — At  the  mouth  of  the  Savannah  River  lies  (18  BI.)  Tybee  Beach 
{Hotel  Tyhee,  from  $21/2),  one  of  the  most  popular  sea-bathing  resorts  of 
the  S.  (reached  by  the  Central  of  Georgia  Railway,  see  below  ^ return-ticket 
50  c.).  It  has  a tine  beach.  Adjacent,  on  Cockspur  Island.,  is  Fort  Pulaski., 
which  has  been  greatly  strengthened  since  its  capture  by  the  Unionists 
in  1862.  — A steamer  plies  twice  weekly  from  Savannah  to  Fernandina 
(p.  446),  calling  at  Brunswick  (p.  426)  and  at  several  points  on  the  "Sea 
Islands,  on  which  large  quantities  of  ‘Sea  Island'  cotton  used  to  be  grown. 
They  are  covered  with  palmettoes  and  live-oaks.  The  S.  end  of  Cumber- 
land Island.,  between  Brunswick  and  Fernandina,  became  the  property 
of  Gen.  Nathaniel  Greene  after  the  Revolution,  and  Washington’s  friend, 
‘Light  Horse  Harry  Lee',  died  here  in  1818.  The  mansion-house  is  named 
Dungeness. 


74.  From  Savannah  to  Atlanta. 

294  BI.  Central  of  Georgia  Railway  in  11  hrs.  (fare  $ 7.81  •,  sleeper  $2). 

Savannah^  see  p.  440.  The  railway  runs  a little  to  the  N.  of  W. 
At  (17  M.)  Meldrim  we  connect  with  the  Seaboard  Air  Line.  30  M. 
Guyton;  35  M.  Brewer;  57  M.  Dover,  the  junction  of  a line  to  (10  M.) 
Statesboro  ,*  66  M.  Rocky  Ford,  the  junction  of  a line  to  (20  M.)  Sylvania. 

At  (79  M.)  Millen  the  railway  forks,  the  right  branch  running  to 
the  N.  to  (53  M.)  Augusta  (see  p.  438).  Our  line  bends  to  the  left 
and  runs  nearly  due  W.  87  M.  Rogers;  96  M.  Midville;  107  M. 
Wadley;  135  M.  Tennille  (p.  439).  Beyond  (146  M.)  Oconee  we 
cross  the  river  of  that  name.  From  (170  M.)  Gordon  a branch-line 
diverges  to  the  right  for  Machen  ( Covington,  Athens). 

191  M.  Macon  (Acu?  Lanier  Ho.,  $2V2-5;  Brown  Ho.,  from 
$ 2V2;  ^drk,  $2-21/2),  a busy  cotton-mart  and  railway-centre,  with 
23,272  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Ocmulgee  River.  The  Wesleyan  Female 
College  here  (400  students)  dates  from  1836  and  claims  to  be  the 
oldest  female  college  in  the  world.  Mercer  College  (275  students) 
is  a Baptist  institution. 

The  Central  of  Georgia  branch  running  to  the  S.  from  Blacon  to 
(71  BI.)  Americus  passes  (60  BI.)  Anderson  or  Andersonville,  the  site  of  the 
great  Stockade  Prison  in  which  so  many  of  the  Union  troops  were  con- 
fined during  the  Civil  War.  The  prison-grounds  have  been  converted 
into  a park,  and  a memorial  monument  has  been  e»ected. 

At  Macon  our  line  crosses  the  Southern  Railway  route  from 
Chattanooga  and  Atlanta  to  Brunswick  (see  p.  426)  and  turns  to- 
wards the  N.W.  — 216  M.  Forsyth,  with  the  flourishing  Monroe 
Female  College;  234  M.  Barnesville.  — 251  M.  Griffin  (Nelms  Ho., 
from  $ 2),  a thriving  little  town  with  6857  inhab.  and  large  cotton  mills 
(Turkish  towelling,  etc.).  Near  Griffin  is  the  Georgia  Experimental 
Farm.  A line  diverges  here  to  the  left  for  Carrollton.  — 267  M. 
Lovejoy;  281  M.  Forest;  288  M.  East  Point;  290  M.  Fort  McPherson 
(p.  420 ; seen  to  the  left). 

294  M.  Atlanta,  see  p.  419. 


443 


75.  From  New  York  to  Florida. 

a.  ViS.  Atlantic  Coast  Line. 

Railway  to  (1014  M.) in  252/3-861/4  Rrs.  (fare  $29.15-,  sleeper 
$6.50)^  to  (1051  M.)  JSt.  Augustine  in  263/4-383/4  Rrs.  (fare  $30.40;  sleeper 
$7);  to  (1254  M.)  Tampa  in  38V4-47  lirs.  (fare  $35.45;  sleeper  $8.50).  The 
‘New  York  & Florida  SpeciaT,  a vestibuled  through-train  similar  to  that 
described  at  p.  342,  leaves  New  York  at  2.10  p.m. 

Florida,  occupying  the  peninsula  in  the  extreme  S.E.  corner  of  the 
United  States,  was  the  first  portion  of  North  America  colonized  by  Europeans 
(comp.  pp.  447,  519)  and  was  named  by  its  Spanish  discoverers  (1512)  be- 
cause first  seen  on  Easter  Sunday  CPascua  Florida"').  Its  mild  and  equable 
winter  climate  has  made  it  a favourite  resort  of  invalids  and  others  who 
wish  to  escape  the  rigours  of  the  North,  while  the  beauties  of  its  luxuriant 
semi-tropical  vegetation  and  its  excellent  opportunities  for  shooting  and 
fishing  are  additional  attractions.  The  game  on  land  includes  deer,  bears, 
pumas  (Felis  concolor)^  wild -cats,  wild  turkeys,  and  numerous  other 
birds,  while  the  fishing  for  tarpon  (Megalops  thrissoides)^  the  largest  and 
gamiest  of  game-fish  (sometimes  201)  lbs.  in  weight),  has  its  headquarters 
in  this  state!  (comp.  pp.  457,  45S).  The  orange  is  believed  to  have  been 
introduced  by  the  Spaniards,  and  about  5 million  boxes  (ca.  175  to  a box) 
were  annually  produced  before  the  severe  frosts  of  1894,  1895,  and  1899 
killed  most  of  the  trees.  The  yield  at  present  has  sunk  to  a few  hundred 
thousand  boxes;  but  the  groves  are  generally  being  replanted.  In  the  S. 
part  of  the  State,  especially  on  the  E.  coast,  large  quantities  of  pine- 
apples are  now  profitably  raised.  Strawberries  and  vegetables  are  also 
extensively  produced  for  early  shipment  to  northern  markets.  Tobacco, 
cotton  (including  the  valuable  ‘sea-island  cotton’,  p.  442),  rice,  maize,  oats,  and 
sugar-cane  are  also  grown,  and  extensive  and  valuable  beds  of  phosphates 
are  worked.  About  three-fourths  of  the  State,  exclusive  of  swamps,  prairies, 
and  hardwood  timber,  is  covered  by  pine-forests ; and  the  lumber  industry 
is  extensive.  Sponge  and  turtle  fishing  are  other  sources  of  wealth.  The 
S.  portion  of  the  State  is  occupied  by  the  Everglades.^  which  may  be  de- 
scribed as  a huge  shallow  lake,  1-6  ft.  deep  and  8000  sq.  M.  in  extent,  filled 
with  low-lying  islands  surrounded  by  clear  water  that  abounds  in  fish. 
A remnant  of  the  Seminole  Indians  still  linger  here,  but  the  district  is 
without  the  pale  of  the  ordinary  tourist. 

‘The  peninsula  of  Florida  affords  the  most  distinct  field,  in  a physio- 
gr.aphic  sense,  of  any  part  of  N.  America.  Including  the  N.  portion  of 
the  State,  it  has  a length  of  about  600  M. , an  average  width  of  near 
100  M. , and  a total  area  greater  than  that  of  New  York,  and  nearly  as 
gieat  as  that  of  New  England,  In  all  this  great  realm  the  maximum  height 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  does  not  exceed  about  400ft.  The  vfhole  of  the 
soil  is  composed  of  materials  recently  brought  together  on  the  sea  floor. 
About  one  fourth  of  the  soil  area  is  limy,  due  to  the  coral  rock  which 
underlies  it.  The  remainder  is  nearly  pure  sand  of  a rather  infertile 
nature.  All  the  soil  owes  its  value  in  the  main  to  the  admirable  climate 
which  the  region  enjoys  (‘Nature  and  Man  in  America’,  by  N.  S.  Shaler). 

The  Season  to  visit  Florida  is  from  Dec.  to  April,  when  all  the  hotels 
aie  open  and  everything  is  seen  to  advantage.  The  communication  with 
the  North  is  excellent  (comp,  above  and  pp.  444,  445),  and  the  hotels  at 
the  chief  resorts  are  unsurpassed  in  the  United  States.  Invalids  should 
not  visit  Florida  without  medical  advice,  and  all  should  remember  that 
the  climate  varies  considerably  in  different  parts  of  the  State.  Clothing  of 
medium  thickness  v ill  be  found  most  suitable,  though  it  is  advisable  to  be 
prepared  for  occasional  great  heat  as  well  as  for  some  really  cold  weather. 
Dust-coats  will  be  found  useful.  Walking  Excursions  are  not  recommended, 
and  most  of  the  roads  are  too  sandy  for  pleasurable  Driving.  Motoring  on  the 
hard  sand-beaches  has  lately  become  a favourite  pastime  (comp.  p.  450). 

From  New  York  to  (228  M.)  Washington  (by  the  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.)j  see  RR.  31  a,  40,  & 42  a;  from  Washington  to  (344  M.)  Rich- 


444  Route  75. 


THOMASVILLE. 


From  New  York 


mond^  see  R.  65;  from  Riclimond  to  (734  M.)  Ashley  Junction.,  see 
R.  70a  (the  ‘Florida  Special’  does  not  run  into  Charleston);  from 
Ashley  Junction  to  (842  M.)  Savannah,  see  R.  73  a. 

From  Savannah  we  run  towards  the  S.W.  The  district  traversed 
is  rather  featureless,  hut  the  traveller  from  the  N.  will  be  interested 
in  the  ‘Spanish  Bayonets’  (Yucca  filamentosa)  and  other  vegetable 
evidence  of  a Southern  clime.  Near  (858  M.)  Ways  we  cross  the 
Ogeechee,  and  beyond  (901  M.)  Johnston  the  Altamaha.  At  (899  M.) 
Jesup  we  intersect  the  line  from  Atlanta  to  Brunswick  (see  p.  426). 

939  M.  Waycross  is  a junction  of  some  importance,  lines  run- 
ning hence  to  Dupont  (see  below),  Jacksonville  (see  p.  446),  Bruns- 
wick (p.  426),  and  Albany.  Numerous  pear-orchards. 

From  Waycross  to  Dupont,  34  M.,  railway  in  3/4-iV2  hr.  From  Dupont 
the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  System  extends  to  the  W.  and  ISl.W.  to  (70  M.) 
Thomasville  (see  below)  and  (281  M.)  Montgomery  (p.  420),  while  to  the  S. 
it  runs  to  Live  Oak  (p.  460),  High  Springs,  Lakeland,  and  (298  M.)  Tampa 
(p.  457).  — Thomasville  (250  ft.  ^ Mitchell  Ho  , Piney  Woods  Hotel,  from  $5, 
winter-hotels  only^  Masury  Hotel,  E.P.,  open  all  the  year),  is  a favourite 
winter-resort  on  a plateau  covered  with  pine-forests.  Pop.  (1900)  5322. 

Its  attractions  include  numerous  walks  and  drives  (Glen  Arvern,  Paradise 
Park,  etc.),  shooting,  an  opera-house,  and  comfortable  hotels.  It  is  supplied 
with  water  by  an  artesian  well  19()0  ft.  in  depth.  Round  the  town  are 
numerous  orchards  of  the  ‘Le  Conte’  pear. 

About  8 M.  to  the  W.  of  Waycross  is  RusTcin,  the  seat  of  a communistic 
society  founded  on  an  industrial  basis.  There  are  about  250  members,  and 
the  colony  is  fairly  successful. 

From  Waycross  our  line  runs  to  the  S.E.  Beyond  (973  M.) 
Folkston  we  cross  the  St.  Mary’s  River  and  enter  Florida  (‘Everglade 
State’).  At  (994  M.)  Callahan  we  cross  the  Seaboard  Air  Line  from 
Fernandina  (p.  446)  to  Tampa  and  Cedar  Key  (R.  79c). 

1014  M.  Jacksonville,  see  p.  446.  Hence  to  (1050  M.)  St.  Au^ 
gustine  and  (1380  M.)  Miami,  see  p.  447 ; to  (1254  M.)  Tampa  and 
(1263  M.)  Port  Tampa,  see  R.  79. 

b.  Vi^  Southern  Railway. 

Railway  to  (1023  M.)  Jacksonville  in  262/3-341/4  hrs.,  to  (1060  M.)  St. 
Augustine  in  273/4-36  hrs.,  to  (1263  M.)  Tampa  in  41-44  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 
The  ‘Southern’s  Palm  Limited’  leaves  New  12.40  p.m. 

From  New  York  to  (228  M.)  Washington,  see  R.  42;  thence  to 
(608  M.)  Charlotte,  see  R.  67a;  thence  to  (717  M.)  Columbia,  see 
p.  435;  thence  to  (870  M.)  Savannah,  see  p.  440. 

Beyond  Savannah  this  route  is  the  same  as  that  above  described, 
except  that  the  Southern  Railway  trains  do  not  run  via  Waycross 
but  proceed  direct  by  the  ‘Jesup  Short  Line’  from  (927  M.)  Jesup 
to  (981  M.)  Folkston. Mid  so  to  (1023  M.)  Jacksonville  (p.  446). 

c.  Vi^  Seaboard  Air  Line. 

Railway  to  (984  M.)  Jacksonville  in  251/3-333/4  hrs.,  to  (1021  M.)  St  Augustine 
in  (2o1/2-36  hrs.,  to  (1196  M.)  Tampa  in  421/3-431/2  hrs.  (fares  as  above).  The 
‘Seaboard  Florida  Limited’,  leaving  New  York  at  12.56  p.m.,  is  the  fastest  , 
train  to  Florida.  ' 


to  Florida. 


CAMDEN. 


75.  Houte.  445 


From  New  York  to  (228  M.)  Washington.^  see  R.  42;  tkence  to 
(344  M.)  Richmond^  seeR.  65 ; tkence  to  (598  M.)  Hamlet^  see  R.  67  c. 

At  Hamlet  we  diverge  from  the  New  Orleans  line  and  soon  enter 
South  Carolina.  — 614  M.  Cheraw;  642  M.  McBee;  651  M.  Bethune. 
— 671  M.  Camden  (240  ft. ; Hobkirh  Inn,  from  $ 5 ; Court  Inn,  from 
$ 4,  these  two  open  in  vvdnter  only ; Bloomsbury,  from  $ 3 ; Kirk- 
wood, at  Camden  Heights),  a winter-resort  among  the  pines. 

Farther  on  we  cross  the  Catawba.  — 704  M.  Columbia,  seep.  435. 
We  here  pass  from  Eastern  to  Central  time  (p.  xviii).  The  line  now 
runs  due  S.  720  M.  (/asion;  730  M.  Woodford.  At  (755  M.)  Denmarfc 
we  cross  a line  from  Aiken  to  Charleston.  765  M.  Olar;  781  M. 
Fairfax;  789  M.  Gifford.  Beyond  (805  M.)  Garnett  we  cross  the 
Savannah  and  enter  Georgia. 

845  M.  Savannah,  see  p.  440.  — We  continue  to  run  towards 
the  S.  At  (855  M.)  Burroughs  we  cross  the  Ogeechee  and  the  Atlantic 
Coast  Line  (p.  444).  Beyond  (888  M.)  Darien  Junction  (for  Darien, 
with  a Brit,  vice-consul),  we  cross  the  Altamaha.  At  (905  M.)  Everett 
we  intersect  the  line  from  Atlanta  to  Brunswick  (see  p.  426). 
Beyond  (947  M.)  Kingsland  we  cross  the  St.  Marys  River  and  enter 
Florida.  — 960  M.  Yulee  is  the  junction  of  the  line  from  Fernandina 
(p.  446)  to  Baldwin,  Tampa,  and  Cedar  Key  (R.  79  c). 

984 M.  Jacksonville,  seep.  446.  Hence  to (102 1 M.^St.  Augustine, 
see  p.  447 ; to  (1196  M.)  Tampa,  see  R.  79c. 


d.  By  Steamer. 

There  are  various  combinations  for  a sea-voyage  on  the  way  from 
New  York  to  Florida. 

Steamers  of  the  Clyde  Steamship  Co.  run  thrice  weekly  (or  oftener)  from 
New  York  (Pier  36,  N.  River)  to  Charleston  and  Jacksonville  (2V2-3  days  5 
fare  $25). 

A steamer  of  the  Mallory  Line  plies  every  Frid.  at  3 p.m.  from  New 
York  (Pier  21,  E.  River)  to  Brunswick  (p.  426  ; 60  hrs.  *,  fare  $20).  From 
Brunswick  a steamer  of  the  Cumberland  (inside’)  Route  runs  in  connec- 
tion  with  the  New  York  boats  to  Fernandina  (p.  446;  3f/2  days;  through- 
fare  $20).  Jacksonville  is  I1/2  hr.  from  Fernandina  by  railway  (see 
p.  446)  and  3V2-4  hrs.  from  Brunswick  via  Everett  (p.  426;  through-fare 
$ 22.25). 

Steamers  of  ihe  Ocean  Steamship  Co.  leave  New  York  (Pier  34,  N.  River) 
3-4  times  weekly  for  Savannah  (50  hrs.;  fare  $20,  to  Jacksonville  $25), 
and  Boston  (Lewis  Wharf)  once  weekly  for  the  same  port  (60  hrs. ; $ 22, 
to  Jacksonville  $27).  From  Savannah  to  Jacksonville  by  railway,  see 
RR.  75a,  75b. 

Steamers  of  the  Merchants  and  Miners  Transportation  Co.  run  thrice 
weekly  from  Baltimore  (foot  of  West  Falls  Ave.)  to  Savannah  (50  hrs; 
fare  $15,  from  New  York  $ 18.80).  From  Savannah  to  Jacksonville  by  rail- 
way as  above  (through-fare  from  Baltimore  $20.65,  from  New  York  $24.45). 

A steamer  of  the  Old  Dommow  ime  leaves  New  York  (Pier 26,  N.  River) 
every  week-day  for  Norfolk  (p.  414;  19-20  hrs.  ; $ 8),  whence  we  may  pro- 
ceed to  the  S.  by  the  Seaboard  Air  Line  via  Norlina  (p.  427),  by  the  At- 
lantic Coast  Line  via  Rocky  Mount  (p.  434),  or  by  the  Southern  Railway 
(p.  423). 


446  Route  76. 


JACKSONVILLE. 


Jacksonville.  — Hotels.  Windsoe,  Geand  View,  Ddval,  from  about 
$21/2  or  $3;  Aeagon,  from  $2^  Roseland^  $2.  — Boarding  Houses^  $6-12 
per  week.  Furnished  Rooms.,  $21/2-6  per  week. 

Electric  Tramways  run  through  the  chief  streets  and  to  the  suburbs. 
Cab  from  the  stations  or  wharves  to  the  hotel,  25  c.  each  pers.  ^ each  trunk 
25  c.  — Steamers  ply  up  the  St.  Johns's  River  (p.  454)  and  to  Mayport, 
Charleston,  New  York,  Boston,  etc.  — Small  Boats,  at  the  foot  of  Market 
St.,  25  c.  per  hr.  — British  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  Edward  Sudlow.  — Post  Office, 
Hogan  St.,  corner  of  Forsyth  St. 

Jacksonville,  tke  commercial  metropolis  of  Florida  (28,429  in- 
kab.  in  1900),  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  tke  St.  John's  River,  22  M. 
from  its  moutk,  was  founded  in  1822  and  named  after  Gen.  Andrew 
Jackson.  Three-fourths  of  the  town  were  burned  down  in  1901,  hut 
it  has  been  substantially  rebuilt.  Jacksonville  is  much  frequented 
by  visitors  from  the  N.  on  account  of  its  dry  and  equable  winter- 
climate  (mean  winter  temp.  55®  Fahr.)  but  offers  comparatively  little 
of  interest  to  the  passing  tourist,  who  will  probably  regard  it  merely 
as  a stage  on  the  way  to  St.  Augustine  and  the  more  picturesque 
parts  of  Florida.  It  carries  on  a large  trade  in  fruit,  timber,  and 
grain,  and  has  some  manufactures.  The  chief  business-streets  are 
Bay  Street  and  Forsyth  Street,  parallel  with  the  river,  and  Laura 
Street  and  Main  Street,  at  right  angles  to  it.  The  residence-streets 
are  generally  shaded  with  bitter-orange  and  other  trees.  The  chief 
streets  are  paved  with  vitrified  brick. 

Pleasant  drives  may  be  enjoyed  on  the  shell-roads  to  the  N.  and 
in  the  Riverside  suburb  (S.W.).  Good  views  of  the  city  and  river 
are  enjoyed  from  the  Viaduct,  which  leads  from  Bay  St.  to  River- 
side Ave.,  and  from  the  ferry  plying  from  the  foot  of  Newnan  St. 
to  S.  Jacksonville.  A Confederate  Monument  was  unveiled  in  1898 
in  St.  James  Park.  A visit  may  be  paid  to  the  Florida  Ostrich  Farm. 

Feom  Jacksonville  to  Feenandina,  36 M.,  railway  inlV2br.  (fare  $ 1.10). 
— Fernandina  (Albemarle,  from  $2V2^  Florida,  from  $21/25  Brit,  vice- 
consul,  Mr.  E.  V.  Nicholl),  a seaport  with  (1900)  3245  inhab.,  situated  on 
the  W.  side  of  Amelia  Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Amelia  River,  was  settled 
by  the  Spaniards  in  1632.  It  has  a fine  harbour  and  carries  on  a trade 
in  phosphates,  naval  stores,  and  timber,  while  steamers  ply  to  Brunswick 
(see  p.  426),  European  ports,  etc.  Its  population  is  much  increased  in 
winter  by  visitors  from  the  N.  A good  shell-road  leads  to  (2  M.)  Amelia 
Beach,  a fine  expanse  for  bathing  and  driving.  Excursions  are  often  made 
to  Cumberland  Island  (p.  442).  — From  Fernandina  to  Baldwin,  Tampa,  and 
Cedar  Key,  see  R.  79  c. 

Feom  Jacksonville  to  Maypoet,  26  M.,  Florida  East  Coast  Railway 
(reached  by  ferry  from  foot  of  Newnan  St.)  in  1 hr.  (fare  65  c.).  — 18  M. 
Pablo  Beach  (Hotel  Pablo,  $ 2 ; Ocean  View,  $ IV2),  one  of  the  most  popular 
summer  and  sea-bathing  resorts  in  Florida,  has  a splendid  beach  and  the 
usual  seaside  attractions.  — 20  M.  Atlantic  Beach  (Continental,  from  $ 2V2), 
another  similar  resort.  — 26  M.  Mayport,  at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John’s 
River.  This  point  may  also  be  reached  by  steamer  from  Jacksonville  or  by 
driving  along  the  beach  from  Pablo  Beach.  From  Mayport  we  may  visit 
Fort  George  Island  by  small  boat. 

From  Jacksonville  to  St.  Augustine  and  Miami,  p.  447  •,  to  Enterprise 
and  Palm  Beach,  see  p.  452-,  up  the  St.  Johns's  River,  see  p.  454-,  to  Pen- 
sacola and  New  Orleans,  see  R.  80  5 to  Tampa,  see  R.  79. 


447 


76.  From  Jacksonville  to  St.  Augustine  and  Miami. 

366  M.  Florida  East  Coast  Railway  in  11-13  lirs.  (fare  $ 11)  j to  (36  M.) 
SL  Augustine  in  I-IV4  br.  (fare  $ 1.25). 

Jacksonville^  see  p.  446.  On  leaving  tlie  station  the  train  crosses 
the  St.  John's  River  by  a steel  bridge,  1320  ft.  long,  and  traverses 
the  suburb  of  South  Jacksonville.  Farther  on  we  see  a few  orange 
groves,  but  most  of  the  journey  for  150  M.  passes  through  pine 
woods.  Between  (13  M.)  Greenland  and  (16  M.)  Bayard  we  cross 
the  Arlington. 

37  M.  St.  Augustine.  — Hotels  (open  in  winter  only)^  *Ponce  de 
Leon  (PI.  a;  B,  4),  from  $ 5^  ’’■‘Alcazar  (PI.  b*,  B,  4),  from  $ 4*,  Alcazar 
Annex  (formerly  the  Cordova;  PI.  c,  B 4),  E.  P.,  these  owned  by  the  Florida 
East  Hotel  Co.*,  Magnolia,  $272-4^  Granada,  Florida  Ho.  (PI.  e-,  B,  3), 
Valencia,  Buckingham,  St.  George,  from  $3;  Barcelona,  $ 2-2V2.  — 
Boarding  Houses.^  $ 8-15  per  week.  — Casino , with  Turkish,  electric,  and 
other  baths.  — Hotel  Omnibuses  and  Carriages  at  the  station,  3/4  M.  from  the 
town  (25  c.  trunk  25  c.). 

Carriages  $ 1V2-3  per  hr.,  $4-5  per  day;  Saddle  Horses  $1  and  $3.  — 
Boat,  with  attendant,  from  25  c.  per  hr.,  $2-5  per  day  (Central  Wharf). 

Post  Office  (PI.  B.  4),  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  (open  8-6). 

For  details,  see  ‘The  Standard  Guide  of  St.  Augustine’’  (25  c.). 

St.  Augustine  (accent  on  first  syllable),  one  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque and  interesting  little  cities  in  America,  lies  on  the  Atlantic 
coast  near  the  S.  end  of  a narrow  peninsula  formed  by  the  Matanzas 
and  St.  Sebastian  Rivers,  and  opposite  Anastasia  Island.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  flat,  sandy,  and  overgrown  with  palmetto  scrub. 
The  older  streets  are  all  very  narrow ; the  old  Spanish  houses  are 
built  of  ‘coquina’  (a  kind  of  shell  limestone),  and  some  of  them  have 
overhanging  balconies.  The  gardens  and  squares  are  full  of  palmet- 
toes,  Spanish  daggers,  orange  and  citron  trees,  date  palms , magno- 
lias, and  bananas.  The  permanent  population  of  St.  Augustine  is 
(1900)  4272,  but  this  is  increased  to  at  least  10,000  during  winter. 
The  climate  is  temperate  and  equable,  the  mean  temperature  for 
the  year  being  about  70®,  for  winter  58®. 

In  1512  the  Spaniard  Ponce  de  Leon  landed  near  the  Indian  town  of 
Seloy  (on  or  near  the  site  of  St.  Augustine),  in  search  of  the  ‘Fountain  of 
Youth’,  but,  not  finding  it,  re-embarked.  Half-a-century  later  (1564)  a col- 
ony of  French  Huguenots , under  Rene  de  Laudonniere , landed  near  the 
same  spot,  but  soon  migrated  to  the  St.  John’s  River.  The  settlement  of 
a Protestant  colony  within  his  trans-Oceanic  dominions  aroused  the  indig- 
nation of  Philip  II.  of  Spain,  who  forthwith  sent  out  an  expedition  under 
Hon  Pedro  Menendez  de  Avilo  to  exterminate  the  invaders.  Menendez  landed 
at  Seloy  on  Sept.  8th,  1565,  found  the  Indians  friendly,  and  erected  the  fort  of 
San  Augustin.  St.  Augustine  is  thus  one  of  the  oldest  permanent  settlements 
of  Europeans  within  the  territories  of  the  United  States  (comp.  p.  519). 
The  Spaniards  lost  no  time  in  carrying  out  the  object  of  their  coming 
by  destroying  the  French  Fort  Caroline  and  massacring  its  inhabitants. 
Haring  the  next  century  St.  Augustine  led  a very  chequered  existence.  It 
was  plundered  by  Sir  Francis  Hrake  in  1586  and  by  Capt.  .John  Havis  in 
1665,  and  it  was  attacked  on  other  occasions  by  the  Indians,  French,  Ca- 
rolinians, and  Georgians  (p.  440).  In  1763  St.  Augustine,  with  the  rest  of 
Florida,  was  yielded  to  Great  Britain,  but  it  was  restored  to  Spain  twenty 
years  later.  Under  the  British  it  contained  about  290  householders  and 
900  negroes.  In  1821  Florida  was  ceded  to  the  United  States,  and  from 


448  Route  76. 


ST.  AUGUSTINE.  From  Jacksonville 


this  time  may  be  dated  St.  Augustine’s  fame  as  a winter-resort,  though  it 
was  not  till  after  the  termination  of  the  troubles  with  the  Seminole  Indians 
(1842)  that  any  large  number  of  Northern  visitors  found  their  way  hither. 

There  are  now  few  persons  of  Spanish  descent  in  St.  Augustine,  all 
having  left  the  city  on  the  British  or  American  occupation;  but  some  de- 
scendants of  a colony  of  Minorcans,  who  arrived  here  in  1769,  are  still  to 
be  seen.  Many  of  the  older  and  more  picturesque  features  of  the  place 
are  disappearing,  though  a laudable  effort  has  been  made  to  erect  new 
buildings  in  a style  in  harmony  with  the  local  atmosphere  and  traditions. 

In  tlie  centre  of  the  city  is  the  *Plaza  de  la  Constitucion 
(PI.  B,  4),  extending  on  the  E.  to  the  sea-wall  and  the  Matanzas^ 
beyond  which  is  seen  the  island  of  Anastasia  (p.  449). 

The  Monument  in  the  centre  of  the  square  was  erected  in  honour  of 
the  Spanish  Liberal  constitution  of  1812,  from  which  it  takes  its  name. 
On  the  E.  side  is  the  Old  Market^  erroneously  known  as  the  Slave  Market. 
On  the  N.  side  is  a Confederate  War  Monument.  The  Roman  Catholic 
Cathedral,  also  on  the  N.  side,  was  rebuilt  on  an  enlarged  scale  after  the 
fire  of  1887.  To  the  W.  is  the  Post  Office,  to  the  S.  the  Episcopal  Church. 

Along  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  runs  the  Alameda  (King  St.)^ 
which  brings  us  at  once  to  a group  of  handsome  modern  buildings  in 
a Spanish  or  Moorish  style  (Pl.B,  4).  To  the  right  is  the  huge  Ponce 
de  Leon  Hotel  (properly  pron.  ‘Ponthe  de  Leon’,  but  usually  called 
‘Pons  dee  Leeon’),  to  the  left  the  Alcazar  Annex  ( Cdrdova  Hotel), 
the  Alcazar,  and  the  Villa  Zorayda,  all  adjoined  by  beautiful  semi- 
tropical  gardens. 

The  -Ponce  de  Leon  (PI.  a),  designed  by  Carrere  & Hasfings  in  the  style 
of  the  Spanish  Renaissance,  is  380  ft.  wide  (facade)  and  520  ft.  long  and  en- 
closes a large  open  court.  The  towers  are  165  ft.  high  (-View).  It  is  built  of 
concrete,  with  red-tiled  roofs  and  brick  and  terracotta  details.  The  scheme 
of  colour  is  very  effective.  The  interior  of  the  Central  Dome  or  Rotunda, 
with  its  four  galleries,  is  elaborately  adorned  with  marble,  carved  oak, 
and  allegorical  paintings.  The  Dining  Room,  150  ft.  long  and  90  ft.  wide, 
is  also  embellished  with  scenes  from  the  history  of  Florida,  Spanish  pro- 
verbs, etc.  The  whole  building  has  been  carried  out  with  a rare  attention 
to  detail  and  every  part  of  it  will  repay  attention.  — The  Alcazar  (PI.  b),  op- 
posite the  Ponce  de  Leon,  is  by  the  same  architects  and  also  in  the  Spanish 
style.  It  includes  a very  large  and  magnificent  "Swimming  Bath,  supplied 
from  a sulphurous  artesian  well.  — The  *Alcazar  Annex  or  Cordova  Hotel 
(PI.  c;  formerly  the  Casa  Monica),  in  a Hispano-Moorish  style,  was  designed 
and  built  by  Mr.  Franklin  W.  Smith  (see  below  and  p.  226),  who  in  this 
building  and  the  Villa  Zorayda  (see  below)  first  demonstrated  the  adaptability 
of  the  monolithic  concrete  architecture  to  modern  buildings.  It  includes 
a fine  sun-parlour,  108ft.  long.  — The  "Villa  Zorayda,  the  earliest  of  this 
group  of  buildings,  was  erected  by  Mr.  Smith  (see  above)  in  1883.  It  is 
in  a Moorish  style,  with  many  suggestions  from  the  Alhambra. 

*St.  George  Street  (Pl.B,  3,  4),  leading  to  tbeN.  fromtbeN.W. 
corner  of  the  Plaza,  is  one  of  the  quaintest  and  most  picturesque 
streets  in  the  city.  It  passes  the  new  Municipal  Buildings  and  ends 
at  the  remains  of  the  old  *City  Gat©  (PI.  B,  3),  consisting  of  two 
pillars,  20  ft.  high,  adjoined  by  fragments  of  coquina  wall.  On  the 
inner  side  of  the  buttresses  are  two  stone  sentry  boxes.  The  gate 
dates  from  the  Spanish  period,  but  its  exact  age  is  unknown.  Out- 
side the  gate  (to  the  left)  is  what  is  known  (without  justification)  as 
the  old  Huguenot  Graveyard.  We,  however,  turn  to  the  right,  to 
visit  *rort  Marion  (PI.  B,  3),  the  most  interesting  relic  of  the 


to  Miami. 


ST.  AUGUSTINE. 


76.  Route.  449 


ancient  city,  wMcli  lies  on  tlie  Matanzas,  at  tlie  N.  end  of  the  sea- 
wall fonen  free,  10-4;  fee  to  the  sergeant  who  acts  as  cicerone). 

Menendez  (p.  447)  erected  a wooden  fort  ( San  Juan  de  Pinos)  on  or  near 
this  snot  The  present  fort,  which  is  made  of  coquina,  was  building  for 
nearly  m)  years  and  was  finished  in  1756.  The  Spaniards  named  it  San  Marco 
and  it  received  its  present  name  in  1821.  The  fort  is  laid  out 
Vauban  system,  with  bastions  at  the  four  chief  angles,  each  protected  by 
a watch-tower,  and  is  surrounded  by  a moat  and  glacis.  We  enter  by  a 
drawbridge,  over  each  end  of  which  are  the  Spanish  coat -of- arms  and  a 
Spanish  inscription.  Among  the  special  features  pointed  out  m the  in- 
terior are  the  Chapel,  the  Dungeon,  and  the  casemate  fr^  which  the 
Seminole  chief  Coacoochee,  who  was  confined  here  with  Osceola,  mc^de 
his  escape  during  the  Seminole  War  (18oO-42). 

The  Sea  Wall  (PL  B,  3,  4),  beginning  at  the  water-battery  of 
the  fort  and  extending  3/^  M.  to  the  S.,  affords  a fine  promenade 
(views).  It  is  made  of  coquina,  capped  with  granite,  and  dates  from 
1835-42.  — At  the  S.  end  of  the  sea-wall  are  the  St.  Francis  Barracks 
(PI.  B 4),  named  from  its  occupying  the  site  of  the  old  Convent  of 
St.  Francis,  some  of  the  coquina  walls  of  which  are  incorporated 
in  the  present  structure.  Guard-mount  and  dress-parade,  with  mili- 
tary music,  attract  many  visitors.  — A little  farther  S.  is  the 
Cemetery  (PL  B,  5),  containing  memorials  of  ‘Dade’s  Command 
(p.  459)  and  other  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  Seminole  War  (order  of 
adm.  necessary  from  the  adjutant  of  the  post).  — A little  to  the  S. 
is  the  Alicia  Hospital  (PL  B,  5).  — In  St.  Francis  St.,  opposite 
the  barracks,  is  what  is  said  to  he  the  Oldest  House  in  the  United 
States  (adm.  25  c.),  huilt  hy  the  Huguenots  (p.447)  in  1564,  occupied 
by  Franciscan  monks  in  1565-80,  and  afterwards  in  possession  ot 
the  same  family  from  1590  to  1882.  It  has  been  ‘restored  and 
contains  a collection  of  relics  connected  with  the  history  of  Florida. 

Among  the  other  buildings  of  interest  in  St.  Augustine  are 
Grace  Church  (Meth.  Epis.-,  PLB,3),  by  Carrere  & Hastings,  at  the 
corner  of  Cordova  St.  and  Carrere  St.,  and  the  elaborate  * Memorial 
Presbyterian  Church  (PL  A,  3),  not  far  from  the  railway- station,  de- 
signed by  the  same  architects  and  erected  by  Mr.  H.  M.  Flagler  in 
memory  of  his  daughter.  — The  museum  of  the  8t.  Augustine  In- 
stitute of  Natural  Science  (open  to  visitors)  occupies  an  interesting 
old  building  at  the  corner  of  Treasury  & Marine  Sts.  (PL  B,  3). 

The  harbour  of  St.  Augustine  is  admirably  adapted  for  Rowing  &nA 
Sailing,  and  excursions  may  be  made  to  Matanzas  (to  the  S.),  up  the  ivor  i 
Amr,  etc.  In  the  ocean,  3V2  M.  from  Matanzas,  is  a hot  Sulfur  Spring. 
Among  the  points  of  interest  on  the  island  of  Anastasia  (bridge  from 
the  foot  of  King  St. : railway  across  the  island)  are  the  South  Beach,  the 
Lighthouse,  and  the  old  Coquina  Quarries.  North  Beach  is  a favourite 
driving  and  riding  resort.  Fair  sea-fishing  (sea-bass,  eto.)  may  be  obtained 
here  and  at  Matanzas.  The  St.  Augustine  Golf  Course,  beyond  the  old  Oit.y 
Gate,  has  nine  holes.  

Leaving  St.  Augustine,  the  train  crosses  the  sluggish  and  marshy 
St.  Sebastian  River  and  runs  to  the  S.W.,  past  (49  M.)  Armstrong 
and  (6AM.)  Hastings  (noted  for  its  fine  crops  of  potatoes),  to  (62  M.) 
East  Palatka^  on  the  bank  of  the  St.  John’s. 

BAEDeKER'’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


29 


450  Route  76. 


DAYTONA. 


From  Jacksonville 


From  East  Palatka  a branch  runs  to  (64  M.)  Palatka  (see  p.  454).  Pass- 
engers also  change  cars  here  for  (66  M.)  San  Mateo^  on  the  St.  John’s. 

Beyond  East  Palatka  the  train  turns  at  right  angles  to  its  former 
course  and  heads  to  the  S.E.,  toward  the  coast,  traversing  a mono- 
tonous region  of  pine-trees  and  palmetto-scrub.  Near  (83  M.)  Espa- 
nola  the  first  lake  of  the  route  appears.  A little  short  of  Ormond  we 
cross  the  Tomoka  Riverain  the  upper  waters  of  which  alligators  abound. 

105  M.  Ormond  (^Ormond^  open  in  winter  only,  $ 4-5;  Mildred 
Villa^  $ 272 ; Granada^  $ 2),  a popular  winter-resort  on  the  Halifax 
River  and  the  ocean  beach.  The  broad  beach,  as  smooth  and  as  hard 
as  a floor,  affording  an  unsurpassed  course  for  driving  and  bicycling, 
stretches  N.  and  S.  for  30  M.  without  a break.  It  is  a favourite  resort 
for  automobile  racing,  and  a mile  is  said  to  have  been  covered  here 
under  40  seconds.  Inland  are  numerous  drives,  chiefly  through 
dense ‘hammock’ (thick  forest  or  jungle  growth).!  In  the  midst  of  the 
hammock  to  the  W.  of  the  town  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  sugar- mill 
reputed  to  have  been  built  by  Spaniards  in  the  16th  century. 
Beyond  Buckhead  Bluffs  on  the  Tomoka,  is  a row  of  cabbage 
palmettoes , marking  the  line  of  the  ‘King’s  Road’,  which  was  built 
in  the  18th  century  by  the  English  from  St.  Mary’s  (Georgia)  for 
400  M.  to  the  S.,  through  Florida.  Excellent  fishing  and  shooting; 
boating  on  the  Halifax,  24  M.  long  and  1/2  wide,  and  up  the 
Tomoka  (steam-launches). 

110  m.  Daytona  (Coionnade5,$  3-4;  The  Breakers^  $3]  Clarendon^ 
from  $ 3,  these  at  Seabreeze  or  East  Daytona;  Ridgewood^  from  $ 3; 
Palmetto^  $2r72j  Grarhd  Atlantic^  Bennett  Ho.^  Parkinson  Ho. , from 
$272;  Seaside  Inn ^ at  Goodall,  $272)  is  another  favourite  resort 
on  the  Halifax  River,  with  2000  inhab.,  fine  trees,  a good  beach, 
a pier,  and  the  winter-homes  of  many  wealthy  Northerners.  A 
beautiful  drive-way,  available  for  bicycles,  leads  to  Ormond,  and  the 
return  may  be  made  on  the  hard  ocean-beach  (see  above).  — 115  M. 
Port  Orange.  The  pine-forests  through  which  we  have  been  trav- 
elling grow  sparser  and  the  palmetto-scrub  grows  thicker.  At  mile- 
post 119  the  train  crosses  a broad  inlet  from  the  Halifax. 

125  M.  New  Smyrna  {^Ocean  Ho.^  from  $ 3),  on  the  Indian  River 
North,  frequented  by  sportsmen,  was  founded  in  1769  by  a colony 
of  1500  Minorcans  and  Greeks  established  for  the  culture  of  indigo 
and  sugar  by  an  Englishman  named  Turnbull  (see  p.  448).  An 
ancient  ruin,  part  of  the  stone  walls  of  which  are  standing,  is 
believed  by  many  antiquarians  to  be  the  remains  of  a chapel  built 
by  men  with  Columbus  on  his  second  voyage,  in  1496  or  1497. 
Shell  mounds  and  other  prehistoric  remains  have  been  found.  Good 
fishing,  shooting,  and  boating.  On  the  peninsula  opposite  New 
Smyrna  is  Coronado  Beach^  a popular  all-the-year-round  resort. 

From  New  Smyrna  to  Orange  City  Junction,  27  M.,  railway  in  1 hr. 
— 20  M.  Lake  Helm  (Harlan  Hotel,  $ 2V'2-3)  is  the  seat  of  the  ‘Southern 
Cassadaga  Spiritualists’  assembly.  — 25  M.  Orange  City.  — 27  M.  Orange 
City  Junction^  connecting  with  the  Atlantic  Coast  Ry.  (see  p.  410). 


to  Miami, 


INDIAN  RIYER. 


76.  Route.  451 


Beyond  (136  M.)  Oak  Hill  we  catch  on  the  left  the  first  glimpse 
of  the  Indian  River,  parallel  with  which,  and  frequently  within 
sight,  the  line  runs  for  the  next  143  M.  A vast  marsh  and  a forest 
of  cabbage  palmettoes  are  traversed,  and  then  for  several  miles 
the  track  skirts  the  river,  here  a broad  bay,  the  farther  shore  dimly 
discernible. 

The  Indian  River,  160  M.  in  length  from  its  head  to  the  S.  end  at 
Jupiter  Inlet,  is  the  most  important  of  the  so-called  ‘rivers’,  but  really 
long  narrow  sounds  or  lagoons,  that  run  parallel  with  the  Atlantic  Ocean 
nearly  all  the  way  from  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John’s  to  Biscayne  Bay. 
They  are  separated  from  the  ocean  by  a narrow  strip  of  land,  broken  by 
a few  inlets,  and  vary  in  width  from  50  yds.  to  about  6 M.  The  Maianzas 
(p.  447),  the  Halifax  (p.  450),  Indian  River  North  (p.  450),  and  Lake  Worth 
(p.  452)  all  belong  to  this  series  of  lagoons.  If  the  sounds  were  continuous, 
there  would  be  only  one  river  some  310  M.  in  length.  Their  continuity 
is  broken  at  various  places,  the  intervals  in  which  no  water-way  exists 
ranging  in  length  from  about  600  yards  to  24  M.  Across  some  of  the  shorter 
isthmuses,  as  well  as  from  Lake  Worth  to  Biscayne  Bay,  canals  have  been 
constructed,  while  others  are  now  in  progress  (see  below).  The  useful- 
ness of  the  sounds  for  shipping,  however,  is  limited  by  their  shallowness. 
The  greatest  depth  does  not  much  exceed  12  ft.,  while  the  minimum  depth 
(after  the  under-noted  improvements  are  completed)  will  be  about  5 or 
6 ft.  The  water  of  these  lagoons  is  salt,  greatly  freshened  by  the  rivers 
that  flow  into  them. 

The  banks  of  the  Indian  River  are  lined  with  luxuriant  semi-tropical 
vegetation,  which  affords  cover  to  large  and  small  game,  including  bears, 
pumas  (p.  443),  wild-cats,  deer,  and  turkeys,  while  the  water  teems  with 
fish.  The  water  is  often  highly  phosphorescent  at  night.  The  Indian  River 
oranges  (groves  on  the  W.  shore)  are  celebrated. 

At  present  no  steamers  navigate  the  Indian  River,  but  the  Florida  Coast 
Line  Canal  & Transportation  Co.  is  now  at  work  improving  the  water- 
ways (comp,  above)  and  expects  to  operate  a line  of  steamers  from  St. 
Augustine  to  Miami  in  1905.  The  route  will  be  down  the  Matanzas  River 
(p. '447),  then  through  a canal  (16  M.  long)  to  the  head  of  the  Halifax 
River  (p.  450),  and  thence  through  that  river  and  the  Mosquito  Lagoon  (or 
Lower  Halifax).  This  lagoon  will  be  connected  with  the  Indian  River  by 
a canal,  11/2  M.  long,  and  the  river  itself,  which  the  steamers  will  follow 
to  Jupiter  Inlet  (p.  452),  has  been  dredged  and  deepened.  Beyond  Jupiter 
the  steamers  will  proceed,  through  the  Lake  Worth  Creek  (straightened)  and 
a canal,  to  Lake  Worth  (p.  452),  which  they  will  enter  about  10  M.  to  the 
N.  of  Palm  Beach  (p.  452)  To  the  S.  of  Lake  Worth  the  steamer  water- 
way will  consist  of  about  40  M.  of  canals  and  improved  channels,  passing 
through  Hillsborough  and  Neio  River  Sounds  and  finally  entering  Biscayne 
Bay  (p.  453),  about  16  M.  to  the  N.  of  Miami  (p.  453).  When  this  new 
line  of  steamers  is  in  operation,  it  will  form  a very  attractive  alternative 
route  to  the  S.  from  Jacksonville  and  St.  Augustine. 

154  M.  Titusville  (Indian  from  $21/2)5  with  (1900)  756  in- 
hab.  and  a considerable  fish  and  oyster  trade,  is  practically  at  the 
head  of  the  Indian  River  (see  above)  and  is  the  usual  starting-point 
of  boating  parties.  It  is  also  the  junction  of  a line  to  Sandford. 

From  Titusville  to  Sandfoed,  47  M.,  Florida  East  Coast  Railway  in 
2-21/2  hrs.  (fare  $ 1.40).  This  line  runs  towards  the  N.W.,  passing  several 
small  stations.  36  M.  Enterprise  {Brock  Ho.,^  $21/2),  on  the  N.  bank  of 
Lake  Monroe^  opposite  Sandford  (p.  457),  has  some  fame  as  a winter-resort. 
At  (40  M.)  Enterprise  Junction  we  join  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  (p.  457).  — • 
47  M.  Sandford,,  see  p.  457. 

169  M.  City  Point;  173  M.  Cocoa  (p.  452). 


29* 


452  Route  76. 


PALM  REACH. 


From  Jacksonville 


175  M.  Rockledge  (Indian  River  ^ $3-4;  Plaza ^ New  Rock- 
ledge,  from  $21/2;  Whites  Cottage,  $2),  a favourite  resort  on  the 
Indian  River,  is  delightfully  situated  on  high  ground  rising  from  the 
W.  hank  of  the  river,  here  11/4  M.  wide.  Beyond  lies  Merritt’s 
Island,  which  is  separated  from  Cocoa  Beach  or  Oceanica,  on  the 
Atlantic,  hy  the  Banana  River.  Coquina  rock  formation  on  the  river- 
hank  suggests  the  name  of  the  place.  A shell-road  connects  Rock- 
ledge  with  Cocoa,  and  cottages  of  winter-residents  border  the  stream 
for  several  miles.  Yachts  of  all  kinds  dot  the  river  during  the 
season ; the  fishing  is  excellent,  and  alligator  hunts  are  frequently 
organized.  Rockledge  is  the  chief  home  of  the  famous  Indian  River 
oranges  (p.  451). 

For  the  next  60  M.  the  line  traverses  an  uninteresting  stretch 
of  white  sand,  producing  scattered  pine-trees  and  abundant  scrub 
palmetto.  The  infrequent  villages  lie  between  the  railway  and  the 
river.  — We  cross  small  creeks  at  (190  M.)  Eau  Gallic,  (194  M) 
Melbourne  (Belleview,  $21/2-3),  and  (200  M.)  Malabar.  In  ap- 
proaching (215  M.)  -ScSaaiian,  junction  of  a line  to  (10  M.)  Cin- 

einnatus  Farms,  we  cross  the  Sebastian  by  a long  draw-bridge. 

242  M.  Fort  Pierce  (Fort  Pierce  Hotel,  $ 21/2)  is  a trading  point  for 
the  Seminole  Indians  and  one  of  the  headquarters  of  tarpon-fishing 
(p.  443).  We  enter  the  pine-apple  region  (p.  443).  For  15  M.  the 
railway  is  bordered  by  pine-apple  plantations,  most  of  them  unpro- 
tected, some  under  sheds.  The  largest  plantations  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood are  at  (254  M.)  Eden  and  (257  M.)  Jensen.  — Between 
Jensen  and  (261  M.)  Stuart  the  line  curves  away  from  the  Indian 
River  and  crosses  the  broad  estuary  of  the  St.  Lucie  River.  • — At 
(283  M.)  West  Jupiter  we  cross  the  Jupiter  River,  with  a view  (left) 
of  Jupiter  lighthouse,  the  Nassau  (p.  454)  cable-station,  Jupiter  Inlet, 
the  mouth  of  Indian  River,  and  breakers  on  the  beach.  ’ 

Jupiter  Inlet  (good  fishing)  lies  at  the  S.  end  of  the  Indian  River  and 
^ , the  *View  from  which  is  very  extensive. 

About  1 M.  to  the  S.  is  a iSf.  Life-Saving  Station.  The  mangrove  thickets 
and  curious  arboreal  forms  are  interesting.  The  Inlet  is  connected  bv  a 
short  canal  with  Lake  Worth  (see  below). 

Beyond  West  Jupiter  the  country  is  tame  to  (299  M.)  West  Palm 
Beach  (Palms,  La  Grange,  Holland,  $ 2-3).  We  cross  Lake  Worth 
on  a bridge  1/2  M.  long.  To  the  left  lies  Munyon^s  Island  (Hotel 
Hygeia),  recently  frequented  by  Northern  visitors. 

300  M.  Palm  Beach.  — Hotels.  *Royal  Poinciana,  an  immense 
structure  in  the  Colonial  style,  with  a frontage  of  1000  ft.  and  room  for 
LOO  guests,  from  $ 5;  *Palm  Beach  Inn,  with  225  bedrooms,  from  $ 3:  -The 
Breakers,  with  TOO  beds,  from  $4^  Hibiscus,  from  $21/2;  also  several 
smaller  hotels  and  boarding-houses. 

Palm  Beach,  situated  on  the  narrow  strip  between  Lake  Worth 
(22  M.  long  and  Y2-I  M.  wide)  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  ranks  as  one 
of  the  most  fashionable  winter-resorts  of  the  United  States,  and  in 
some  respects  rivals  the  resorts  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  season, 
extending  from  Christmas  until  April  10th,  is  at  its  height  in  March, 


to  Miami, 


MIAMI. 


76.  Route.  453 


when  the  hotels  are  crowded.  Unlimited  wealth  has  made  of  the 
surroundings  of  the  chief  hotels  a vast  semi-tropical  paradise.  The 
Royal  Poinciona  [named  for  a tree  with  gorgeous  flowers,  hlooming 
in  summer)  faces  Lake  Worth,  while  the  Palm  Beach  Inn.,  with  which 
it  is  connected  hy  a wide  avenue  of  palms,  1/2  long,  and  The 
Breakers  (with  its  cottages)  face  the  ocean.  The  grounds  are  filled 
with  hearing  cocoanut- trees,  palms  of  many  varieties,  and  countless 
foliage  and  flowering  plants  and  sbruhs,  and  are  adjoined  hy  gardens 
in  which  bananas,  guavas,  grape-fruit,  avocado  pears,  custard  apples, 
maumee  apples,  mangoes,  and  pawpaws  come  to  maturity.  The  cupola 
of  the  Poinciana  yields  an  entrancing  'view  (esp.  at  sunset),  including 
the  entire  length  of  Lake  Worth,  with  the  villas  on  its  hanks,  the 
narrow  peninsula,  clad  in  tropical  verdure,  between  the  lake  and  the 
ocean,  the  Atlantic  stretching  away  to  the  E.  horizon,  and  the 
mysterious  Everglades  on  the  W.  Adjoining  the  Palm^  Beach  Inn  is 
the  Pavilion,  with  a large  swimming  pool.  A long  pier  extending 
into  the  ocean  affords  opportunities  for  fishing  (tarpon,  etc.).  Lake 
Worth  is  also  a favourite  yachting  rendezvous.  The  Palm  Beach  Oolf 
Links  (18  holes)  are  deservedly  popular.  Bicycle  chairs  and  ‘rick- 
shaws^ are  much  in  vogue  for  locomotion. 

Leaving  Palm  Beach,  the  train  re-crosses  Lake  Worth  and  turns 
to  the  S.  Pine-apple  plantations  are  occasionally  passed.  The  soil 
is  light  sand,  almost  pure  white.  312  M.  Boynton  (The  Boynton, 
$21/2-8);  317  M.  Delray;  341  M.  Fort  Lauderdale,  on  the  N.  hank  of 
the  New  River.  — 351  M.  Hallandale,  with  great  fields  of  garden 
truck,  particularly  tomatoes,  which  are  sent  N.  in  Feb.  and  March. 
Bananas  thrive.  — 357  M.  Arch  Creek,  with  a natural  bridge  of 
solid  coquina  rock;  362  M.  Lemon  City. 

866  M.  Miami  (Boyat  Palm,  from  $5,  sometimes  crowded; 
Biscayne,  from  $3;  The  Everglade,  $21/2;  Gautier;  Palm  Hotel, 
from  $ 21/2;  omn.  25  c.),  the  S.  terminus  of  the  Florida  East  Coast 
Ry.,  and  the  southernmost  railway-station  in  the  United  States  (lat. 
25®  50'),  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  State.  It  was  organized  as  a 
modern  city  in  1896 , and  in  1900  had  a population  of  1680,  which 
number  is  greatly  enlarged  during  the  winter  tourist  season.  Miami 
is  situated  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Miami  River,  where  it  enters  BL- 
cayne  Bay,  a large  sheet  of  clear  salt  water,  separated  from  the  ocean 
by  the  first  of  the  long  chain  of  Florida  Keys.  The  bay  is  now  being 
dredged  and  improved  by  the  U.  S.  Government,  and  it  is  expected 
that  vessels  drawing  17  ft.  of  water  will  be  able  to  enter  the  new 
harbour.  Miami  has  a balmy  climate  and  dense  tropical  vegetation, 
and  the  soil  produces  a great  variety  of  tropical  and  semi-tropical 
fruits  and  vegetables.  The  Hotel  Royal  Palm  occupies  the  point  of 
land  between  the  Miami  River  and  the  Bay  and  is  surrounded  by  an 
immense  grove  of  cocoanut- trees.  The  Fishing  is  good.  The  Golf 
Links  are  very  flat. 


454  Route  77. 


PALATKA. 


St.  Johns 


The  Florida  East  Coast  Steamship  Co.  runs  a large  steamer  tri-weekly 
■throughout  the  year  from  Miami  to  (165  M.)  Key  West  (see  p.  458),  th*e 
route  following  the  line  of  the  keys,  sometimes  within,  sometimes  with- 
out (13  hrs.;  fare  $8.75,  incl.  berth  and  meals).  Another  fine  steamer  of 
the  same  company  runs  2-3  times  a week  in  Jan. -April  to  (185  M.)  Nassau 
(Colonial,  from  $5^  Royal  Victoria,  from  $4),  in  the  Bahama  Islands 
(12  hrs.^  fare  $18.50,  incl.  berth  and  meals).  Yet  another  boat  of  the 
same  company  runs  twice  weekly  throughout  the  year  to  (240  M.)  Havana, 
Cuba  (16  hrs. ; fare  $21,  incl.  berth  and  meals). 

About  5 M.  to  the  S.  of  Miami  is  Cocoanut  Qrove.^  overlooking  Biscayne 
Bay,  with  the  Peacock  Inn  ($  2Y2-3Y2),  the  southernmost  hotel  on  the  main- 
land of  the  United  States  (boating,  fishing,  shooting). 


77.  The  St.  John’s  River. 

Steamers  of  the  Clyde's  St.  John's  River  Line  leave  Jacksonville  thrice 
weekly  at  3.30  p.m.  for  Palatka,  Asior,  Beresford  (De  Land),  Sanford  (17  hrs. 
fare  $3.75,  incl.  meals  and  berth),  and  Enterprise  (18  hrs.^  same  fare). 
Other  steamers  run  to  Green  Cove  Springs,  Palatka  and  Crescent  City,  and 
Mayport  (see  p.  446^  daily).  — Travellers  who  start  from  St.  Augustine 
may  join  the  steamer  at  Palatka  (railway  from  St.  Augustine,  28  M.,  in 
IV4-IV2  hr.). 

There  is  no  great  variety  in  the  scenery  of  this  trip,  but  visitors  to 
Florida  should  make  part  of  it  at  least  for  the  sake  of  the  picture  it  aftbrds 
of  luxuriant  semi-tropical  vegetation,  with  occasional  glimpses  of  alliga- 
tors. The  St.  John’s  River  is  about  400  M.  long,  and  its  lower  course 
resembles  a series  of  lakes  1/2-6  M.  wide.  Parts  of  the  upper  river  are 
well-nigh  choked  with  water-hyacinths  (Eichhornia  azurea). 

The  terms  right  (r.)  and  left  (1.)  in  the  following  route  are  used  with 
reference  to  travellers  ascending  the  river. 

Jacksonville , see  p.  446.  The  following  are  some  of  the  chief 
points  passed.  — 10  M.  (r.)  Black  Point.  14  M.  (r.)  Orange  Park 
(rail,  station).  — 15  M.  (1.)  Mandarin,  formerly  the  winter-home 
of  Mrs.  Harriet  Beecher  Stowe.  — 24  M.  (r.)  Magnolia  Point,  one 
of  the  highest  bluffs  on  the  river.  — 241/2  M.  (r.)  Mouth  of  Black 
Creek,  navigable  for  8 M.  — 25  M.  (1.)  Remington  Park. 

28  M.  (r.)  Magnolia  Springs  {Hotel,  from  $ 4;  rail,  stat.)  , a 
favourite  resort  of  consumptives,  amid  pines  and  orange-groves. 

30  M.  (r.)  Green  Cove  Springs  {Clarendon,  $ 3;  /St.  Elmo,  $ 3-4), 
a favourite  resort,  with  a copious  sulphur-spring  (78®) , used  both 
for  bathing  and  drinking.  A beautiful  path  leads  along  the  river 
to  (2  M.)  Magnolia.  — 38  M.  (1.)  Hogarth’s  Landing.  — 44  M.  (1.) 
Piccolata,  an  old  Spanish  settlement.  — 49  M.  (1.)  Tocoi,  the  junc- 
tion of  a (disused)  railway  to  (18  M.)  St.  Augustine  (p.  447).  — 
63  M.  (1.)  Orange  Mills,  with  fine  orange-groves. 

75  M.  Palatka  (/Saratoga,  $ 2^/2  j Oraham,  from  $ 21/2 ; Arlington, 
$ 2;  tramway  between  railway  - station  and  steamer  - landing  5 c.), 
the  largest  town  on  the  St.  John’s  above  Jacksonville  (3301  inhab. 
in  1900),  is  pleasantly  situated  and  attracts  many  winter- visitors. 
It  is  a railway-centre  of  some  importance,  and  is  the  starting-point 
of  the  small  steamers  which  ascend  the  Ocklawaha  (p.  455)  and  of 
others  for  Drayton  Island  (p.  455). 

From  Palatka  to  Rockledge,  Palm  Beach,  and  Miami,  see  R.  76  j to  San- 
ford, see  R.  79a;  to  St.  Augustine,  see  p.  449;  to  Jacksonville  (by  railway). 


River.  WELAKA.  77.  Route.  455 

see  p.  456.  Lines  also  run  hence  to  Lake  City  and  Macon  (pp.  460,  442)  and  to 
Gainesville  (p.  459)  and  Ocala  (p.  459). 

Above  Palatka  the  vegetation  becomes  more  luxuriant  and  trop- 
ical in  character,  including  cypresses,  orange-trees,  magnolias,  pal- 
mettoes,  water-oaks  (Quercus  aquatica),  azaleas,  vines  of  all  kinds, 
etc.  The  river  becomes  narrow  and  winding. 

76  M.  (1.)  Hart's  Orange  Grove , one  of  the  most  productive  in 
Florida.  — 82  M.  (1.)  Dunns  Creek , up  which  the  Crescent  Lake 
steamer  plies  to  Crescent  City.  — At  (85  M.)  Buffalo  Bluff  the  rail- 
way crosses  the  river  (p.  456).  ■ — 93  M.  (1.)  Satsumay  with  fine 
orange-groves.  — 100  M.  (1.)  Welaka  (McClure  Ho.,  $ 2),  on  the 
site  of  Indian  and  Spanish  settlements,  is  nearly  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  Ocklawaha  (see  below).  — 106  M.  (r.)  Fort  Gates.  The  river 
now  expands  into  * Lake  George  ^ 12  M.  long  and  9 M.  wide.  Dray- 
ton Island  has  fine  orange-groves.  To  the  right  is  the  outlet  of  Lake 
Kerr.  On  leaving  Lake  George  we  enter  another  narrow  stretch  of 
river.  — 134  M.  (1.)  Volusia^  on  the  site  of  an  early  Spanish  mis- 
sion. (r.)  Astor.  A little  farther  on  we  cross  Dexter  Lake.  — From 
(162  M.)  Beresford  (1.)  a short  branch-line  runs  via  De  Land  Junc- 
tion to  De  Land  (College  Arms,  $3-5;  Putnam,  $21/2-9),  with  the 
John  B.  Stetson  University  (450  students).  — 168  M.  (1.)  Blue  Spring, 
with  a singular  spring.  We  now  reach  the  most  picturesque  part  of 
the  river.  — 174  M.  (r.)  Mouth  of  the  Kissimmee  River  (not  to  be 
confounded  with  that  mentioned  at  p.  457). 

Farther  on  the  steamer  passes  another  railway-bridge  and  enters 
Lake  Monroe,  5 M.  in  diameter,  on  the  S.  side  of  which  lies  (193  M.) 
Sanford  (p.  457)  and  on  the  N.  (198  M.)  Enterprise  (p.  451). 

Above  Lake  Monroe  the  St.  John's  River  is  navigable  for  a consider- 
able distance  by  steam-launches,  and  sportsmen  and  tourists  occasionally 
go  on  as  far  as  Lake  Harney  (guides , etc. , obtainable  in  Sanford). 


78.  The  Ocklawaha  River. 

Steamers  of  the  Hart  or  Lucas  Lines  leave  Palatka  daily  in  the  season 
(about  noon)  for  (135  M.)  Silver  Springs  (20  hrs.,  down  stream  15  hrs.  •, 
fare  $ 7,  incl.  meals  and  berth).  The  steamers,  though  necessarily  small, 
are  fairly  comfortable.  _ 

This  trip  should  not  be  omitted  by  any  visitor  to  Florida.  The  **Ock- 
lawaha  (‘dark,  crooked  water'),  issuing  from  Lake  Griffin,  near  the  centre 
of  Florida,  joins  the  vSt.  John's  River  (see  above)  after  a course  of  280  M., 
of  which  about  200  M.  are  navigable  by  small  steamers.  It  is  exceedingly 
tortuous,  flows  nearly  all  the  way  through  a vast  cypress-swamp,  and  has 
no  banks  except  the  tree-ti*unks  rising  from  the  water.  The  moss-draped 
cypresses  produce  a most  weird  and  picturesque  effect , especially  when 
lighted  up  by  the  level  rays  of  the  rising  or  setting  sun  or  by  the  flaming 
pine-knots  or  electricity  used  to  help  navigation  at  night.  Alligators, 
snakes,  turtles,  water-turkeys,  herons,  egrets,  and  other  birds  of  brilliant 
Southern  plumage  abound  on  its  banks.  No  shooting  is  allowed  from  the 
steamers.  The  steering- apparatus  is  interesting,  — The  trip  may  also  be 
made  in  the  reverse  direction. 

From  Palatka  to  (25  M.)  Welaka,  see  above.  Our  steamer  now 
leaves  tbe  St.  JobAs  River  and  turns  to  tbe  right  (W.)  into  the 


456  Route  78, 


SILVER  SPRINGS. 


narrow  Ocklawaha,  The  following  are  some  of  the  chief  landings, 
though  none  are  of  any  size  or  importance. 

32  M.  Davenport;  48  M.  Blue  Spring;  58  M.  Fort  Brooke.  — At 
(59  M.)  Orange  Springs  the  Ocklawaha  is  joined  on  the  right  by  the 
Orange  Creek  and  bends  abruptly  to  the  left  (S.).  — About  5 M. 
farther  on  we  pass  a double-headed  palmetto.  — 75  M.  Jola;  78  M. 
Forty  Foot  Bluff;  87  M.  Eureka,  — At  (88  M.)  the  * Cypress  Gate 
we  pass  between  two  huge  cypresses,  barely  leaving  room  for  the 
steamer.  About  7 M.  farther  on  we  pass  a Twin  Cypress  (left),  where 
two  trees  have  grown  into  one.  101  M.  HelVs  Half  Acre  (island); 
103  M.  Gore's;  105  M.  Osceola’s  Old  Field  (comp.  p.  449);  106  M. 
Durisco's;  118  M.  Grahamville. 

Farther  on  (126  M.  from  Palatka)  we  leave  the  muddy  Ockla- 
waha, emerge  from  the  woods,  and  ascend  the  crystal-clear  Silver 
Sprmgs  Run  to  the  right, 

135  M.  Silver  Springs  {Brown  Ho.^  $ 2),  the  largest  and  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  of  the  springs  of  Florida,  claims  to  be  the  ‘Foun- 
tain of  Youth’  of  which  Ponce  de  Leon  was  in  search  (p.  447).  The 
water  is  wonderfully  transparent,  small  objects  being  distinctly 
seen  at  the  bottom  (60-80  ft.  deep).  The  spring  discharges  thou- 
sands of  gallons  of  water  hourly.  The  visitor  should  row  round  the 
pool  in  a small  boat. 

Silver  Springs  is  a station  on  the  Seaboard  Air  Line,  connecting  via 
Ocala  (p.  459),  6 M.  to  the  W.,  with  all  parts  of  the  State. 

The  upper  part  of  the  Ocklawaha,  above  Silver  Springs  Run  (see 
above),  is  seldom  visited  by  the  tourist. 

79.  From  Jacksonville  to  Tampa. 

a.  Yik  Palatka  and  Sanford. 

240  M.  Atlantic  Coast  Railway  in  10  hrs.  (fare  $ 6.30;  >leeper^$  2) . 
Port  Tampa  (p.  458),  the  starting-point  of  steamers  to  Key  West  and  Havana, 
is  9 M.  (35  min.)  farther  on.  Through-sleepers  from  New  York  to  Port 
Tampa  run  on  this  route  (comp.  p.  443). 

From  Jacksonville  (p.  446)  to  Palatka  the  line  follows  the  left 
(W.)  bank  of  the  St.  Johns  River  (p.  454),  which,  however, 4s  seldom 
in  sight.  28  M.  Magnolia  Springs  (p.  454)  ; 30  M.  Green  Cove  Springs 
(p.454) ; 41 M.  West  Tocoi  (comp,  p.454).  — 55  M.  Palatka  (p.454) 

At  (63  M.)  Buffalo  Bluff  i\i.Q  train  crosses  to  the  E.  bank  of  the 
St.  John’s.  Numerous  orange-groves  are  passed.  83  M.  Seville  (Grand 
View,  $2),  with  a picturesque  little  station.  Lake  George  (p.  455) 
lies  4 M.  to  the  W.  — 99  M.  i)c  Leon  Springs.  At  (108  M.)  Beres- 
ford  we  cross  the  short  line  from  De  Land  Landing  (p.  455)  to  De 
Land  (p.  455),  and  at  (112  M.)  Orange  City  Junction  we  connect 
with  that  from  New  Smyrna  (p.  450).  — At  (118  M.)  \Enterprise 
Junction  diverges  the  line  to  Enterprise  and  Titusville  (p.  451). 

Our  line  now  crosses  the  St.  John’s  River  as  it  issues  from  Lake 
Monroe  (p.  455).  121  M.  Monroe. 


TAMPA. 


79.  Route.  457 


125  M.  Sanford  (Sanford  Bo.,  from  $2;  Wilton,  $2-3^  Rail. 
Restaurant),  a thriving  little  city  with  (1900)  1450  inhah.,  is  of 
some  importance  as  the  practical  limit  of  navigation  on  the  St.  John’s 
River  and  the  junction  of  several  railways.  It  lies  on  the  S.  side  of 
Lake  Monroe,  in  which  fair  fishing  is  obtained. 

From  Sanford  to  Tarpon  Springs  and  St.  Petersburg,  153  M.,  Atlantic 
Coast  Line  (no  through-trains).  — 16  M.  Palm  Springs;  26  M.  Glarcona;  28  M. 
Grown  Point  with  lemon  - groves  5 33  M.  Oakland.^  on  Lake  Apopka.,  with 
large  orange -groves;  44  M.  Clermont,  on  Lake  Mineola,  a tomato-growing 
centre;  55  M.  Mascotte.  At  (75  M.)  Trilby,  where  we  cross  the  W.  ctast 
route  from  the  N.  to  Tampa  (see  p.  459),  the  line  changes  from  narrow 
gauge  to  standard  gauge.  The  town  lies  on  Lake  Du  Maurier,  and  its  streets 
are  named  after  the  characters  in  the  well-known  novel.  — 121  M.  Tarpon 
Springs  (The  Oaks.,  The  Ferns,  $2),  a pleasant  resort  on  the  Gulf  Coast, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Anclote  River.  The  late  Duke  of  Sutherland’s  manor 
lies  2 M.  to  the  N.E.  On  the  Anclote  River,  3 M.  to  the  W.,  is  Sponge 
Harbor,  whence  large  quantities  of  sponges  are  exported.  The  total  annual 
value  of  the  sponges  produced  in  Florida  is  over  $ 1,000,000.  — 126  M. 
Sutherland  (San  Marino,  $ 2-4),  a favourite  winter-resort.  — Beyond  (131  M.) 
Dunedin  the  train  traverses  the  Pinellas  Peninsula,  between  Old  Tampa  Bay 
and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  — 136  M.  Belleair  (Bellevue,  from  $ 372)  is  a new 
winter-resort  overlooking  Clearwater  Bay,  with  good  shooting,  tishing,  and 
yachting,  and  a well-made  bicycle- track.  — 153  M.  St.  Petersburg  (Detroit, 
Huntington^  from  $21/2),  a good  fishing-station  on  Tampa  Bay.  Steamers 
ply  from  (153  M.)  St.  Petersburg  Wharf  to  Port  Tampa  (p.  458)  and  the 
Manatee  River. 

From  Sanford  to  Jacksonville  by  steamer,  see  R.  77.  Sanford  is  also 
connected  by  railway  with  Lake  Charm  and  with  Tavares  (on  Lake  Eustis) 
and  Leesburg  (p.  459). 

Beyond  Sanford  we  traverse  a country  thickly  sprinkled  with 
lakes.  — 143  M.  Winter  Park  (Rogers  Ho.,  $ 2-2Y2)  ? ^ charming 
winter-resort,  surrounded  by  lakes  (boating  and  fishing).  — 148  M. 
Orlando  (-San  Juan,  $272"3V2;  Casa,  $ 2;  Barrow,  from  $ 2),  a 
busy  little  city  with  (1900)  2481inhab.,  affords  good  headquarters  for 
guides  and  sporting  supplies.  — 166  M.  Kissimmee  (Kissimee  Hotel, 
from  $2^25  Graves,  Park,  $2),  on  Tohopekaliga  Lake,  is  another  good 
hunting  centre.  It  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Disston  or  Okeechobee  Co., 
which  has  done  much  to  reclaim  the  swampy  land  to  the  S.  Sugar 
is  raised  at  St.  Cloud,  a little  to  the  E.  (branch-line). 

The  Kissimmee  River,  issuing  from  Tohopekaliga  Lake,  flows  through 
Lake  Kissimmee  to  the  large  Lake  Okeechobee,  which  connects  with  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico  by  a canal  and  the  Caloosahatchee  River. 

From  (194  M.)  Bartow  Junction  a branch-line  runs  to  the  S. 
to  (17  M.)  Bartow,  (91  M.)  Punta  Gorda,  and  (101  M.)  Fort  Myers. 

Punta  Gorda  ( Punta  Gorda  Hotel,  open  in  winter,  from  $ 21/2;  Dade  Ho. 
open  in  summer,  $272;  Brit,  vice-consul,  Mr.  A.  F.  Dewey),  on  Charlotte 
Harbor,  is  resorted  to  by  sportsmen  and  fishermen,  who  obtain  good  sport 
on  the  Peace  River  and  in  the  harbour.  The  best  fishing-ground  for  tarpon 
is  within  easy  reach. 

208  M.  Lakeland  (215  ft.;  Tremont  Ho.,  $2^2-3;  Matanzas, 
$ 2)  is  the  junction  of  another  line  to  Bartow  (and  Punta  Gorda) 
and  also  of  the  W.  coast  line  from  the  N.  (comp.  p.  459).  At  (218  M.) 
Plant  City  we  cross  the  Seaboard  Air  Line  (comp.  p.  460). 

240  M.  Tampa  {^Tampa  Bay  Hotel,  with  500  rooms,  a theatre, 
a swimming  bath,  a bicycle-track,  and  golf-links,  from  $4,  variously 


458  Route  79, 


KEY  WEST. 


From  Jacksonville 


reported  on;  Almeria^  from  $ 27-2;  Arno^  $ 2-3;  Palmetto^  DeSoio^ 
from  $2),  the  most  important  commercial  city  on  the  Gulf  Coast  of 
Florida,  with  (1900j  15,839  inhah.  (iiicl.  West  Tampa),  lies  at  the 
head  of  Hillsborough  Bay  [the  E.  branch  of  Tampa  Bay)  and  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Hillsborough  River.  It  is  surrounded  with  lemon  and 
orange  groves  and  has  become  one  of  the  favourite  health-resorts  in 
Florida,  especially  since  the  opening  of  the  huge  and  handsome 
Tampa  Bay  Hotel  (facade  of  511  ft.).  The  bay  swarms  with  fish, 
including  the  tarpon  (p.  443),  and  with  water-fowl,  while  deer  and 
other  game  are  found  inland.  Cigar-making  is  the  leading  industry. 
Tampa  was  one  of  the  great  mobilisation  camps  in  the  Hispano- 
American  war  of  1898. 

About  20  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Tampa,  at  Indian  Hill^  are  some  curious 
shell-mounds  in  which  human  remains  were  found. 

249  M.  Port  Tampa  (*The  Hin^  R.  from  $ 1 ; Brit,  vice-consul,  Mr. 
John  Bradley)^  on  the  peninsula  separating  Hillsborough  Bay  from 
Old  lampa  Bay.,  is  the  starting-point  of  steamers  to  Key  West  and 
Havana.,  Mobile.,  and  various  points  on  Tampa  Bay,  the  Manatee 
River,  etc.  To  reach  deep  water  the  railway  has  to  run  into  the  bay 
on  trestle-work  for  nearly  1 M.,  and  at  the  end  of  this  is  the  pier, 
with  the  inn  and  other  buildings. 

The  Peninsular  & Occidental  S.  S.  Co.^s  steamers  for  Havana,  the 
capital  of  Cuba,  run  thrice  weekly  in  winter  and  twice  weekly  in  summer 
(34  hrs. ; fare  $21.25).  On  the  way  they  call  at  Key  West  West  Hotel, 
$4;  Island  City  Hotel,  $ 3-,  Cripe  Hotel,  $ 1V2-2V2*,  El  Polaco,  Spanish  restau- 
rant-, British  vice-consul;  tramways;  carr.  $1  per  hr.),  the  third  city  of 
Florida  (17,114  inhab.  in  19C0),  situated  upon  one  of  the  long  chain  of  ‘keys’, 
or  small  coralline  islands,  which  lie  to  the  S.  of  the  peninsula.  The  name 
is  said  to  be  a corruption  of  the  Spanish  Cayo  Hueso  (‘Bone  Island’),  which 
took  its  rise  from  the  finding  of  numeroua  human  bones  here  by  the  Spanish 
mariners.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  Cubans,  who  have  established  cigar- 
factories  that  now  produce  125-150  million  cigars  annually.  Other  im- 
portant industries  are  the  sponge -fishery,  turtle-catching,  and  deep-sea 
fishing  (mullet,  etc.).  The  fine  harbour  is  protected  by  Fort  Taylor,  built 
on  a small  island,  and  also  by  more  modern  fortifications.  A visit  may 
be  paid  to  the  Banyan  Tree  adjoining  the  U.  S.  Barracks.  Key  West  is  not 
so  warm  as  many  places  to  the  N.  of  it  (range  50-98°;  mean  for  winter  ca. 
70°),  though  artificial  heat  is  unused  except  for  cooking ; and  its  pure  air 
attracts  many  winter  visitors.  Steamers  ply  regularly  from  Key  West  to 
Port  Tampa  (see  above),  Miami  (p.  453),  New  Orleans  (p.  461),  Galveston 
(p.  593),  New  York  (p.  7),  ar.d  Havana  (9-12  hrs. ; comp,  above). 

Band  Key,  7 M.  to  the  S.S.W.  of  Key  West,  is  the  southernmost  point 
of  the  United  States. 


b.  VIA  Palatka  and  Ocala. 

261  M.  Atlantic  Coast  Line  in  13  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

From  Jacksonville  to  (55  M.)  Palatka,  see  R.  79  a.  Our  line  now 
runs  towards  the  W.,  passing  some  wayside  stations.  At  (93  M.) 
Rochelle  we  diverge  to  the  left  from  the  line  to  (32  M.)  High  Springs 
(p.  444)  and  run  towards  the  S.  — From  (99  M.)  Micanopy  Junction 
a branch-line  runs  to  (8  M.)  Tacoma,  and  from  (106  M.)  Oaklaum 
another  runs  to  (6  M.)  Citra. 


to  Tampa. 


CEDAR  KEY. 


79,  Route.  459 


124  M.  Ocala  [Ocala  Ho..,  from  $ 3;  Montezuma,  from  $21/2)5 
a thriving  little  city  (3380  inlial).),  in  one  of  the  most  fertile 
districts  of  Florida.  Large  phosphate  beds  are  worked  in  the  vicin- 
ity. Ocala  is  also  a station  on  the  Seaboard  Air  Line  (see  below) 
and  the  starting-point  of  a branch  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  to  Dun- 
nellon  (on  the  Withlacoochee  River),  Crystal,  and  (49  M. ) Homosassa, 
on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Line  to  Silver  Springs,  see  p.  456. 

At  (158  M.)  Leesburg,  the  junction  of  a line  to  Astor,  we  bend 
to  the  S.W.  185  M.  St.  Catherine  (see  below).  From  (187  M.)  Croom 
a branch -line  runs  to  (10  M.)  Broohsville.  At  (196  M.)  Trilby 
( p.  457)  we  cross  the  line  from  Sandford  to  St.  Petersburg.  At 
(229  M.)  Lakeland  (p.  457)  we  join  the  route  above  described  and 
follow  it  to  (261  M.)  Tampa  (p.  457). 

c.  Waldo  and  Ocala. 

212  M.  Seaboard  Air  Line  Eailwat  in  8V2-II  ki’s.  (fares  as  above:  to 
Ocala  $ 3.05,  to  Cedar  Key  $ 3.80). 

At  (19  M.)  Baldwin  this  line  diverges  to  the  left  (S.)  from  the 
line  to  Tallahassee  and  New  Orleans  (see  R.  80)  and  joins  the  line 
from  Fernandina (p.446)  to  Tampa.  33  M.  Highland;  38  M.  Lawtey, 
with  orange -groves  and  strawberry -farms.  45  M.  Starke  is  the 
junction  of  a branch-line  to  (60  M.)  Wannee.  At  (51  M.)  Hampton 
we  cross  the  railway  from  Palatka  (p.  454)  to  Macon  (p.  442).  — 
56  M.  Waldo  [Waldo  Ho,,  $3)  is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to 
Cedar  Key  (see  below). 

From  Waldo  to  Cedar  Key,  71  M.,  railway  in  3 krs.  — 14  M.  Gaines- 
ville {Brown  Ho.,  from  $ 2),  a city  and  winter-resort  with  (1900)  3633  in- 
hab.,  is  the  junction  of  railways  to  Palatka,  Ocala,  Live  Oak,  etc.  Excur- 
sions may  be  made  to  the  Alachua  Sink  (alternately  lake  and  prairie)  and 
other  natural  curiosities.  — From  (28  M.)  Archer  a branch-line  leads  through 
a rich  phosphate  district  to  Eagle  Mine  (phosphates).  — 71  M.  Cedar  Key 
{New  Palmetto,  Schlemmer,  $2),  a town  of  740  inhab.,  lies  on  a small  ^cey’ 
off  the  W.  coast  of  Florida  and  has  a harbour  which  admits  vessels  of 
12  ft.  draught.  It  carries  on  a trade  in  fish,  turtle,  oysters,  and  sponges, 
and  cuts  red  cedar  for  lead  pencils.  Steamers  ply  hence  to  the  Suwanee 
River,  etc.  — The  Suwanee  River,  well  known  from  the  negro-song  of 
^The  old  folks  at  home'  (by  S.  G.  Foster),  enters  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  about 
15  M.  to  the  N. 

At  (70  M.)  Hawthorne  we  intersect  the  line  from  Palatka  to 
Gainesville  (see  p.455).  Farther  on  we  skirt  Loch  Loosa  and  cross 
the  E.  brancli  of  OrangeLake,  on  the  S.  shore  of  which  we  traverse, 
for  nearly  1 M.,  the  so-called  Mammoth  Orange  Groves,  now  greatly 
reduced  in  size  (comp.  p.  443).  83  M.  Citra  (see  p.  458).  From 
(98  M.)  Silver  Springs  Junction  a branch-line  runs  to  (2  M.)  Silver 
Springs  (see  p.  456).  — 101  M.  Ocala,  the  junction  of  the  Atlantic 
Coast  Line,  see  above  — From  (127  M.)  Wildwood  a line  runs  to 
Leesburg,  Tavares,  Orlando,  and  Lake  Charm.  135  M.  Panasoffkee, 
at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake  of  that  name.  About  4 M.  to  the  N.  of 
(146  M.)  St.  Catherine  (junction  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line)  is  the 
spot  where  Major  Dade  and  his  detachment  of  110  men  were  sur- 


460  Route  SO. 


TALLAHASSJlE. 


prised  and  slain  by  the  Seminoles  on  Dec.  28th,  1835,  only  three 
soldiers  escaping  alive.  — At  (156  M.)  Lacoochee  we  touch  the  At- 
lantic Coast  line  from  Sanford  to  St.  Petersburg  (see  p.  457).  Near 
(164  M.)  Dade  City  is  the  pretty  Pasadena  Lake.  189  M.  Plant  City, 
see  p.  457.  — 194  M.  Turkey  Creek  ^ the  junction  of  a branch-line 
to  Sarasota.  — 210  M.  Yhor  City^  with  large  tobacco-factories. 

212  M.  Tampa,  see  p.  457. 

From  Turkey  Creek  to  Sarasota,  55  M.,  Florida  West  Coast  Railway 
in  2V2-4V2  5rs.  This  new  line  opens  up  the  '‘Manatee  Country\  a ferti’e 
orange-gi’owing  district,  helow  the  ‘frost-line'.  It  also  offers  good  shoot- 
ing and  fishing.  — 5 M.  Durant;  12  Boyett;  17  M.  Balm;  26  M.  Willow; 
32  M.  Parrish;  35M.  £’ne;  39  M.  Terra  Geia  Junction.,  for  (2IV2M.)  Terra  Ceia; 
4OV2  M.  Ellenton.  — 43  M.  Palmetto  on  the  Manatee  River.,  connects  by 
ferry  0/4  br.)  with  Braidentown  (Hotels).^  the  county-seat,  a pleasant  little 
place  with  1000  inhah.  and  a steamboat-dock.  Braiden  Castle.,  near  here 
(now  in  ruins),  and  the  Gamble  Mansion.,  near  Ellenton  (see  above),  are 
the  two  chief  establishments  of  the  early  sugar-planters  in  this  region.  — 
44  M.  Manatee^  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  river-,  471/2  M.  Oneco.  — 55  M.  Sarasota 
(De  Soto  Hotel,  from  $2),  on  Sarasota  Bay.  The  line  is  to  be  prolonged 
to  Punta  Oorda  see  p.  450- 

80.  From  Jacksonville  to  Tallahassee,  Pensacola, 
and  New  Orleans. 

614  M.  Seaboard  Air  Line  Railway  to  (208  M.)  River  Junction  in  8 hrS. ; 
Louisville  <fe  Nashville  R.  R.  thence  to  (406  M.)  New  Orleans  in  14-15  hrs. 
(through-carriages^  fare  $19.35;  sleeper  $3.50). 

Jacksonville^  see  p.  446.  The  line  runs  nearly  dueW.  At  (19  M.) 
Baldwin  we  cross  the  line  from  Ferhandina  to  Tampa  and  Cedar  Key 
(see  R.  79c).  Beyond  (28  M.)  Macclenny  we  cross  the  S.  fork  of 
the  St.  Mary's  River.  The  Confederates  defeated  the  Federals  at 
(47  M.)  Olustee  on  Feb.  20th,  1864.  — 60  M.  Lake  City  (Central  Ho., 
Lake  City  Hotel,  $ 2),  embosomed  in  trees,  is  the  seat  of  the  State 
Agricultural  College  and  a U.  S.  Experimental  Station  and  the  junction 
of  lines  to  Palatka  (p.  454),  Gainesville  (p.  459),  Macon  (p.  442), 
etc.  It  is  surrounded  by  lakes  and  lakelets.  — At  (82  M.)  Live  Oak., 
8 M.  to  the  N.  of  which  lie  Suwanee  Springs^  we  intersect  the  W.  coast 
route  of  the  Atlantic  Coast  Line  (p.  444),  and  at  (95  M.)  Ellaville  we 
cross  the  rushing  Suwanee  River  (p.  459).  Beyond  (124  M.)  Green- 
ville we  cross  the  Aucilla.  From  (138  M.)  Drifton  a line  runs  N.  to 
(4  M.)  Monticello  and  Thomasville  (p.  444).  147  M.  Lloyd  (Rail. 
Restaurant,  meals  75  c.).  The  country  now  becomes  more  hilly. 

165  M.  Tallahassee  (Leon,  $2-3;  St.  James,  $2),  the  capital 
of  Florida,  is  finely  situated  among  trees,  on  a hill  rising  280  ft.  above 
the  sea.  Pop.  (1900)  2981.  The  chief  buildings  are  the  Capitol,  Court 
House,  and  West  Florida  Seminary.  The  gardens  are  especially 
beautiful  in  the  time  of  roses.  The  Episcopal  Cemetery  contains  the 
grave  of  Prince  Achille  Murat  (d.  1847),  son  of  the  King  of  Naples, 
who  married  a Virginian  girl  and  settled  near  Tallahassee. 

Pleasant  drives  may  be  taken  to  (6  M.)  Lake  Jackson  (fishing), 
lamonia  (12  M.),  Lake  (18  M.),  Bellair  (6  M.),  and  the  'Wakulla 


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81.  Route.  461 


Spring  (15  BI.  to  the  S.).  The  spring  (4^1/2  BI.  from  Wakulla  Station^  on  the 
branch-line  to  St.  MarFs)  is  106  ft.  deep  and  of  wonderful  transparency. 
It  may  also  he  reached  by  boat  from  St.  Blark’s  (2  hrs.). 

From  Tallahassee  the  Caerabelle,  Tallahassee,  & Georgia  Railway 
runs  to  the  S.W.  to  (45  BI.)  Lanark  (Lanark  Inn,  $ 2),  a popular  resort  on 
the  G^lf  of  Mexico.^  and  (60  BI.)  Carrdbelle  (City  Hotel,  $ 2),  a port  with 
fishing  and  lumber  interests,  — From  Carrabelle  steamers  ply  to  (30  BI.) 
Apalachicola  (Fuller.^  $2^  Brit,  vice-consul,  Mr.  T.  F.  Porter).^  another 
fishing  and  lumbering  port,  with  (1900)  3077  inhab.,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Apalachicola  River. 

About  2 M.  beyond  Tallahassee  tbe  Murat  Homestead  (see  p.  460) 
is  visible  to  the  right.  We  cross  tbe  OcUlockonee  River.  Magnolias  grow 
here  in  great  profusion.  189  M.  Quincy.,  with  tobacco-plantations. 

At  (208  m.)  River  Junction,  on  the  Apalachicola  River  (see  above ; 
curious  railw'ay- station,  erected  on  trestle-work  above  the  river),  we 
join  the  Louisville  ^ Nashville  R.  R.  Connection  is  also  made  here  with 
the  Apalachicola  River  steamers.  Our  train  crosses  a long  trestle  over 
the  Apalachicola,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Flint  and  Chcdta- 
hoochee,  2 M.  above.  — 234  M.  Marianna,  on  the  Chipola.  290  M. 
De  Funiak  Springs  (Griffin  Ho.,  $2).  Beyond  (319  M.)  Crestview 
we  cross  Shoal  River.  349  M.  Milton  lies  at  the  head  of  Blackwater 
Bay.  About  10  M.  farther  on  we  cross  Escambia  Bay  by  a trestle  3 M. 
long.  Fine  marine  views  to  the  left. 

369  M.  Pensacola  (Escambia,  from  $ 21/2 ; Merchants  , from  $ 2 ; 
Brit,  vice-consul,  Mr.  Fred.  Bonar),  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name, 
10  M.  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  was  founded  by  the  Spaniards  in  1696 
and  has  (1900)  17,747  inhab.,  a brisk  trade  in  fish  and  timber,  and 
a huge  grain  elevator.  The  ruins  of  Forts  St.  Michael  and  St.  Bernard 
date  partly  from  the  Spanish  period. 

Visits  may  be  made  (small  steamer)  to  the  Navy  Yard,  Ft.  McRae,  Ft. 
Barancas,  and  Ft.  Pickens  (Santa  Rosa  Island).  Steamers  also  ply  to  Eu- 
ropean ports. 

The  train  now  runs  to  the  N.,  along  the  Escambia  River,  and 
enters  Alabama  shortly  before  reaching  (413  M.)  Flomaton.  From 
Flomaton  to  (472  M.)  Mobile  and  — 

614  M.  New  Orleans,  see  R.  67  a. 


81.  New  Orleans. 

Railway  Stations.  Union  (PI.  E,  4),  for  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.,  the 
Illinois  Central  R.  R , and  the  Yazoo  & Blississippi  Valley  R.  R.  • Terminal 
(PI.  E,  F,  3),  for  the  St.  Louis  & San  Francisco  R.  R.  ^ Louisville  & Nashville 
(PI.  F,  4)',  New  Orleans  <&  North  Eastern  (Queen  <k  Orescent  Station;  PI. 
G,  H,  3);  New  Orleans  Southern  (PI.  G,  2)*,  Texas  Pacific  (V\.  F,  5),  on 
the  Levee,  with  ferries  across  the  river  5 Fort  Jackson  (PI.  G,  3),  on  the 
W.  bank^  West  End  (PI.  F,  3)-,  Old  Lake  (PI.  G,  2,  3),  for  local  lines  to 
Lake  Pontchartrain  (p.  466). 

Hotels.  St.  Charles  (PI.  c;  F,  4),  St.  Charles  Ave.,  from  $ 6^/2,  R.  from 
$ IV2;  Grunewald  (PI.  d;  F,  4),  Baronne  St.,  near  Canal  St.,  from  $3^/2, 
R.  from  $ 11/2;  Commercial  (PI.  f;  F,  3,  4),  corner  of  Royal  and  Iberville 
Sts.,  R.  from  $ 1 *,  Denechadd,  at  the  corner  of  Perdido  and  Carondelet  Sts. 
(PI.  F,  4)*,  Cosmopolitan  (PI.  F,  4),  Bourbon  and  Royal  Sts.,  R.  $ IV2; 
F4.bacher'’s,  Iberville  St.,  near  Royal  St.,  commercial  •,  St.  Charles  BIansion^ 


462  Route  81. 


NEW  ORLEANS. 


Situation, 


822  St.  Charles  Ave.,  near  Lee  Circle,  rooms  only.  — Boarding  Houses 
abound  throughout  New  Orleans,  and  the  numerous  Pensions  and  Ghambres 
Garnies  of  the  French  Quarter  are  carried  on  in  genuine  Creole  style. 
During  the  Carnival  (p.  463)  a special  bureau  is  established  for  giving 
information  about  lodgings. 

Restaurants.  In  the  above  hotels;  Fabacher ^ 137  Royal  St.  (ladies’ 
eutr  .nce,  708  Iberville  St.),  open  day  and  night;  Antoine^  713  St.  Louis  St. ; 
Louisiana^  717  Iberville  St. ; Victor^  209  Bourbon  St. ; Figalle^  722  Iberville 
St.,  unpretending,  good  cooking;  Begue^  near  French  Market,  corner  Ma- 
dison and  Decatur  Sts.,  with  famous  noon-breakfast;  Fours.,  at  City  Park; 
TrancMna.,  at  West  End,  on  the  lake;  Christian  Women'' s Exchange.,  corner 
Camp  and  South  Sts.,  on  Lafayette  Square,  clean  and  cheap.  — The 
markets  of  New  Orleans  are  singularly  well  stocked  with  game,  fish,  fruit, 
and  vegetables,  and  its  restaurants  have  a good  reputation.  Among  the 
Creole  dishes  for  v/hich  New  Orleans  is  famous  is  Gumbo.,  a thick  vegetable 
soup,  made  of  okra  and  flavoured  with  chicken,  oysters,  crabs,  or  shrimps. 
— Gafis  abound  in  the  French  Quarter. 

Electric  Tramways  traverse  the  city  in  all  directions  and  run  to  the 
suburbs  (fare  5 c.).  — The  rear-seats  of  each  car  are  ‘Reserved  for  our 
Colored  Patrons’.  Comp.  p.  463.  — Carriages  about  $1  per  hour;  from 
the  railway-stations  to  the  hotels  50  c.  each  person.  — Omnibuses  meet 
the  principal  trains  (25  c.).  — Ferries  ply  to  Algiers.,  Oouldsborough.,  and 
Gretna.,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Mississippi.  — Steamers  ply  to  all  points 
on  the  Mississippi  (comp.  R.  64),  Ohio.,  and  Missouri.,  and  to  Few  York.,  Boston., 
Key  West.,  Havana.,  Vera  Cruz.,  Liverpool,  Hamburg,  South  Africa.,  and  many 
other  American  and  European  ports. 

Places  of  Amusement.  French  Opera  House  (PI.  F,  3),  corner  of  Bour- 
bon and  Toulouse  Sts.  (2000  seats);  Orpheum  (Pi.  F,  4),  St.  Charles  Ave.; 
Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  F,  3),  Canal  St.;  Crescent  Theatre,  Tulane  Theatre, 
Baronne  St.;  Newcomb  Iheaire  (PI.  E,  F,  3,  4);  Elysium  Theatre  (PI.  Gf,  2); 
Athletic  Park  (PI.  B,  C,  2),  for  summer  vaudeville ; West  End  Casino,  at  the 
ake  (p.  466),  for  concerts  in  summer.  — Comp.  p.  466. 

British  Consul  (for  Louisiana,  Arkansas,  Mississippi,  Alabama,  and 
Florida),  Henry  Thomas  Garew-Hunt,  141  Carondelet  St.;  vice-consul, 
J.  Donnelly. 

Post  Office  (PI.  F,  4),  Lafayette  Sq.,  open  6.30  a.m.  to  7 p.m..  Sun.  9-12. 

New  Orleans,  tbe  cMef  city  of  Louisiana,  tbe  twelftli  city  of  the 
United  States,  and  the  largest  to  the  S.  of  St.  Louis,  is  situated  on 
the  Mississippi,  106  M.  above  its  mouth  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
The  great  bulk  of  the  city  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river , which 
is  here  V4"V2  wide  and  makes  the  bend  from  which  New  Orleans 
derives  its  appellation  of  ^Orescent  City’.  A great  part  of  the  city 
is  below  the  level  of  the  river  at  high  water  and  is  protected  by  a 
levee  or  embankment,  15  ft.  wide  and  14  ft.  high.  The  municipal 
limits,  which  extend  on  the  N.  to  Lake  Pontchartrain  (p.  466),  en- 
close an  area  of  187  sq.  M.,  but  while  three-fourths  of  this  is  as  yet 
uninhabitable  swamp,  portions  are  steadily  being  reclaimed.  The 
city  is  laid  out  with  considerable  regularity,  and  many  of  the  chief 
streets  are  wide  and  shaded  with  trees.  The  most  important  busi- 
ness-thoroughfare is  Canal  Street  (PI.  B-F,  1-4),  which  runs  at  right 
angles  to  the  river  and  divides  the  French  Quarter,  or  '‘Vieux  Carre’ 
(see  p.  463),  on  the  N.E.,  from  the  New  City,  or  American  Quarter, 
on  the  S.W.  The  finest  residences  are  in  St.  Charles  Avenue 
(PI.  A-E,  5,  6),  In  1900  New  Orleans  contained  287,104  inhab., 
of  whom  about  one-quarter  are  Coloured,  while  the  remaining  three- 


mstory.  NEW  ORLEANS.  81.  Route.  463 

fourths  include  large  proportions  of  French,  German,  Irish,  Italian, 
and  Spanish  blood. 

New  Orleans  was  founded  in  1718  by  Jean-Baptiste  Lemoine  de  Bien- 
ville, governor  of  the  settlement  made  in  1699  at  Biloxi  (see  p.  422),  and 
became  the  capital  of  Louisiana  in  1721,  while  still  but  little  more  than  a 
village  of  trappers  and  gold-hunters  (comp.  Miss  Grace  King's  ‘Sieur  de  Bien- 
ville’). In  1732  the  population  was  about  5000.  In  1762  it  was  ceded  by  France 
to  Spain,  but  the  inhabitants  rebelled  against  this  transference,  established 
a government  of  their  own,  and  were  not  suppressed  till  1769.  From  1800 
to  1803  New  Orleans  was  again  in  the  hands  of  the  French,  but  in  the  latter 
year  it  was  ceded,  with  the  rest  of  Louisiana,  to  the  United  States.  In 
1804,  when  it  had  about  10,000  inhab.,  it  received  its  city-charter.  In 
1815  the  British  were  defeated  here  in  an  important  battle  by  Gen.  Andrew 
Jackson  (see  p.  466).  In  1840  New  Orleans  was  the  fourth  city  of  the 
United  States,  ranking  after  New  York,  Philadelphia,  and  Baltimore.  New 
Orleans  surrendered  to  the  Unionists  under  Gen.  Ben.  Butler  in  1862,  after 
Adm.  Farragut  had  succeeded  in  passing  the  forts  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Mississippi  and  had  the  city  under  the  gans  of  his  fleet.  By  1850  the 
population  had  increased  to  116,375,  by  1860  to  168,675,  by  1870  to  191,418, 
by  1880  to  216,090,  and  by  1890  to  242,039. 

New  Orleans,  as  the  outlet  of  the  greatest  agricultural  valley  in  the 
world,  with  a grand  natural  harbour,  furnished  with  important  wharves 
and  warehouses,  and  the  largest  Federal  dry-dock,  is  essentially  a com- 
mercial city,  and  its  foreign  export  trade  is  very  important.  In  1903  the 
value  of  its  exports  was  nearly  $ 150,000,000  and  that  of  its  imports 
$ 85,2i2,0(X),  the  combined  total  showing  it  to  be  the  second  port  of  the 
United  States  (after  New  York).  It  is  the  largest  cotton-market  in  the 
world  after  Liverpool,  and  handles  about  21/2  million  bales  annually. 
It  also  exports  large  quantities  of  sugar,  molasses,  rice  (21/2  million  barrels 
in  1903),  pork,  Indian  corn,  wool,  timber,  hides,  and  tobacco,  and  imports 
fruits  from  Central  and  South  America,  including  enormous  quantities  of 
bananas.  The  tonnage  of  ships  annually  entering  the  harbour  exceeds 
5,000,000.  Its  manufactures  (valued  in  1903  at  $ 70,0(X),000,  in  175  varieties) 
include  cotton-seed  oil,  machinery,  barrel-staves,  flour,  rice,  tobacco,  and 
sugar.  — In  spite  of  the  levees  and  embankments  the  lower  Mississippi 
often  breaks  its  bounds,  and  disastrous  inundations  are  of  frequent  occur- 
rence. Within  the  last  150  years  the  E.  bank  of  the  river  at  New  Orleans 
has  greatly  advanced,  the  new  land  or  ‘batture’  being  at  some  points 
as  much  as  1500  ft.  wide. 

New  Orleans  is  in  many  ways  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and  in- 
teresting cities  in  America,  owing  to  the  survival  of  the  buildings,  manners, 
and  customs  of  its  original  French  and  Spanish  inhabitants.  It  has  been 
described  by  Mr.  G.  W.  Cable  as  ‘a  city  of  villas  and  cottages,  of  umbra- 
geous gardens,  intersected  by  470  M.  of  unpaved  streets,  shaded  by  forest 
trees,  haunted  by  song-birds,  fragrant  with  a wealth  of  flowers  that  never 
fails  a day  in  the  year,  and  abundant,  in  season,  with  fruit  — the  fig,  the 
plum,  the  pomegranate,  the  orange’.  The  French  Quarter.,  to  the  N.E.  of 
Canal  St.,  is  largely  inhabited  by  Creoles.,  ‘a  handsome,  graceful,  and  in- 
telligent race,  of  a decidedly  Gallic  type,  whose  name  does  not  necessarily 
imply,  any  more  than  it  excludes,  a departure  from  a pure  double  line  of 
Latin  descent’  (Cable).  Of  late  years  many  negroes  and  Italians  have 
crowded  into  this  quarter.  Among  its  foreign -looking  features  are  the 
walls  of  adobe,  the  lime-washed  stucco  facades,  the  jalousies,  the  grat- 
ings, the  small-paned  windows,  the  portes-co chores,  the  arcades  of  elegant 
slim  pillars,  the  balconies  of  delicate  hand-wrought  iron,  the  tiled  roofs, 
and  the  inner  courts  with  half-hidden  gardens  — the  whole  embosomed 
in  bright-flowering  semi-tropical  plants.  Most  of  the  streets  hear  French 
or  Spanish  names;  and  indeed  the  whole  street -nomenclature  of  New 
Orleans  is  picturesque,  though  the  Anglicised  pronunciation  will  some- 
times puzzle  a stranger.  — The  famous  Carnival  of  Mardi  Gras  (Shrove 
Tuesday),  celebrated  here  with  great  splendour,  since  its  beginning  early  in 
the  18th  century,  is,  perhaps,  the  most  picturesque  festival  in  America.  The 


464  Route  81. 


NEW  ORLEANS. 


Levee. 


city  is  taken  formal  possession  of  by  Rex,  the  King  of  the  Carnival^  and  the 
revels  of  his  retinue,  the  Knights  of  Momns,  the  Mystic  Krewe  of  Comas, 
and  other  societies  are  of  the  liveliest  description.  The  processions  are 
very  elaborate  (comp.  p.  391).  Those  who  mean  to  visit  New  Orleans  at 
this  season  should  secure  rooms  in  advance  (see  p.  462). 

The  visitor  to  New  Orleans  should  be  familiar  with  George  W.  Gable's 
romances  (‘Sieur  George’,  ‘Mme.  Delphine’,  ‘The  Grandissimes’,  etc.).  The 
house  of  ‘Sieur  George’  is  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  Royal  and  St.  Peter  Sts. 
(PI  F 3)  No.  253  Royal  St.,  the  home  of  ‘Mme.  Delicieuse’,  and  ‘Mdme. 
Delphine’s’,  at  294  Barracks  St.  (PI.  F,  3),  near  Royal  St.,  are  replaced  by 
new  stractures.  The  ‘Haunted  House’  of  ‘Mme.  Lalaurie’  still  stands  intact 
at  114")  Royal  St.,  at  the  S.E.  corner  of  Hospital  St.  This  mansion  has 
harboured  Lafayette,  Ney,  and  Louis  Philippe.  Lafitte’s  shop,  when  he 
was  no  longer  a pirate,  is  unchanged,  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  fcourbon  and 
St  Philippe  Sts.  ‘Tite  Poulette’  lived  on  the  S.  side  of  Dumaine  St., 
between  Royal  and  Chartres  Sts.  At  1122  Royal  St.  is  a coart  surrounded 
by  portales  of  the  early  Spanish  barracks.  At  the  N.E.  corner  of  St.  Louis 
and  Chartres  St.  is  the  grand  mansion  designed  to  give  shelter  to  Napoleon 
Bonaparte,  when  Girod  planned  the  escape  from  St.  Helena.  — See  also 
‘New  Orleans:  the  Place  and  the  People’,  by  Grace  King. 

Paul  Morphy  (1837-84),  the  famous  chess-player,  was  a native  of  New 
Orleans  and  is  buried  in  the  old  St.  Louis  Cemetery  (PI.  F,  3). 


The  tourist  will  do  well  to  begin  Ms  exploration  of  New  Orleans 
by  taking  bis  bearings  from  tbe  roof  of  tbe  Hennen  Building.,  at  the 
corner  of  Common  and  Carondelet  Sts.  (PI.  F,  4),  or  from  the  roof  of 
the  Custom  House  (PI.  F,  4).  The  latter  is  a large  granite  building 
in  Canal  Street,  near  the  river,  containing  the  large  Marble  Hall. 

Just  below  the  Custom  House,  Canal  St.  ends  at  the  *Levee  (FI* 
F-H,  3-6),  which  extends  along  the  W.  bank  of  the  Mississippi 
for  about  6 M.  and  presents  a very  animated  and  interesting  scene. 
Following  it  to  the  left  (N.)  we  soon  reach  *Jackson  Square 
(P1.F,3),  the  old  Place  d^Armes,  which  retains  its  ancient  iron  rail- 
ing and  contains  a Statue  of  Gen.  Andrew  Jackson  (see  p.  463)  by 
Mills.  It  is  adjoined  by  the  Catbedral  of  St.  Louis,  a good  specimen 
of  the  Spanish-Creole  style,  built  in  1792-94,  on  the  site  of  the  first 
church  in  Louisiana,  but  altered  in  1850.  It  contains  some  paint- 
ings and  interesting  tombs.  The  buildings  to  the  right  and  left  are 
Court  Houses^  that  to  the  S.  having  been  built  for  the  Cahildo,  or 
City  Council  of  the  Spanish  regime.  In  it  and  in  front  of  it  were 
held  the  ceremonies  attending  the  cession  of  Louisiana  by  the 
French  Government  to  the  United  States  in  1803.  On  the  N.  and  S. 
sides  of  the  square  stand  the  original  Pontalha  Mansions^  of  historic 
brick  and  still  owned  by  that  family.  — On  the  Levee,  just  beyond 
Jackson  Sq.,  is  the  ^French  Market  (PI.  G,  3),  a morning  visit  to 
which  (best  about  6 or  7 a.m. ; on  Sun.  8 or  9 a.m.)  reveals  a scene 
of  the  greatest  picturesqueness  and  animation.  — A little  farther  on, 
at  the  foot  of  Esplanade  Ave.,  is  the  V.  S.  Branch  Mint  (PI.  G,  d), 
a large  building  in  the  Ionic  style. 

We  may  now  take  an  opportunity  for  a stroll 
Quarter  fsee  p.  463),  among  tbe  chief  promenades  of  which  are  Espl(made 
Are  (PL  D-G,^l-3),  Rampart  Street  (PI.  F,  2),  and  Bourbon  Toulouse,  Conh 
and  Roval  Streets  (PI.  F,  3).  At  the  corner  of  Chartres  and  Hospital  Sts.  is 
(PI.  F,  G,  3),  in  the  unchanged  UrsuUne  Convent, 


Cotton  Exchange.  NEW  ORLEANS. 


81.  Route.  466 


built  in  1730,  in  wbich  a Colonial  Museum  has  been  opened  recently 
(visitors  admitted).  Beyond  this,  on  the  Levee  facing  the  river,  is  the 
second  house  of  the  Ursulines,  also  worth  a visit. 

Following  St.  Charles  Ave.  from  Canal  St.  to  the  S.,  we  pass  the 
St.  Charles  Hotel  (right)  and  the  Orpheum  (left;  PI.  F,  4)  and  reach 
^Lafayette  Square  (PL  F,  4),  around  which  are  grouped  the  City 
Hally  the  new  Post  Office^  St.  PatricJcs  Church,  the  First  Presbyterian 
Churchy  and  the  Odd  Fellows'  Hall.  In  the  square  are  a Statue  of 
Frankliny  by  Hiram  Powers , a Monument  to  John  McDonough  (see 
below;  1898),  and  Statue  of  Henry  Clay.  Farther  on  we  come 
to  Lee  Ci-rcle  (PI.  F,  5),  with  a monument  to  Gen.  Robert  E.  Lee. 
At  the  corner  of  Camp  St.  and  Howard  Ave.,  adjoining  Lee  Circle, 
stands  the  * Howard  Library  (PL  F,  4;  open  9-9,  Sun.  1.30-5), 
the  last  work  of  H.  H.  Richardsony  who  was  a native  of  Louisiana. 
Adjacent  (entr.  in  Camp  St.)  is  Memorial  Hally  a museum  of  Con- 
federate relics.  To  the  S.W.,  in  Caron delet  St.,  is  the  Jewish  Temple 
Sinai  (PL  E,  5).  — The  Monument  to  Margaret  Haughery  (PL  F,  5), 
the  ‘Orphan^s  Friend’,  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  statue  of  a woman 
erected  in  the  United  States  (comp.,  however,  p.  153). 

Tulane  Avenue  (PL  C,  D,  2,  3),  named  in  honour  of  the  chief 
benefactor  of  Tulane  University  (see  below) , and  its  continuation 
Common  Avenue  (PL  E,  3,  4)  contain  the  Law  Department  of  Tulane 
University,  the  House  of  Detentiony  St.  Joseph's  Churchy  the  Parish 
Prison  and  Criminal  CourtSy  the  Hotel-DieUy  and  the  large  Charity 
Hospital  (PL  E,  3),  originally  established  in  1784  (800  beds).  The 
large  Cotton  Exchange  (PL  F,  4)  is  at  the  corner  of  Carondelet 
and  Gravier  Sts. ; the  Produce  Exchange  (PI.  F,  4)  is  in  Magazine  St. ; 
and  the  Sugar  Exchange  (PL  F,  4)  is  at  the  foot  of  Bienville  St,  The 
Church  of  the  Immaculate  Conception  (PL  E,  F,  4)  is  in  a singular 
Moorish  style.  — The  Shot  Towery  at  the  corner  of  Constance  St. 
and  St.  Joseph  St.  (PL  F,  4,  5),  commands  a fine  view  (214  ft.  high; 
elevator).  — The  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  (PL  A,  7)  lies  near  the  river. 

*St.  Charles  Avenue  (PL  A-E,  5,  6),  extending  in  a crescent 
from  Lee  Circle  (see  above)  to  Audubon  Park  (p.  466),  is  lined 
with  oaks  and  magnolias  and  contains  many  old  and  admirable  private 
residences,  as  well  as  many  modern  ones  in  more  questionable  taste. 
Among  its  public  buildings  are  Christ  Church  (PL  D,  6),  the  New  Orleans 
University  (600  students),  the  Academy  of  the  Sacred  Heart,  the 
Jewish  Orphan  Homey  and  the  Harmony  Club.  At  the  point  where 
the  avenue  crosses  Audubon  Park  are  the  newer  buildings  of  Tulane 
University  (PL  A,  5),  an  important  and  well-equipped  institution 
with  1225  students  and  a library  of  50,000  volumes.  Associated 
with  Tulane  University  is  the  H.  Sophie  Newcomb  Memorial 
College  for  Women  (PL  E,  6),  founded  in  1886.  — A legacy  of  John 
McDonough  (d.  1850)  has  built  and  equipped  30  handsome  School 
Houses  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  accommodating  16-20,000 
children. 

BAEDEKEa’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


30 


466  Route  81. 


NEW  ORLEANS. 


Cemeteries. 


New  Orleans  is  not  well  provided  with  parks.  The  City  Park 
(PI.  B,  C,  1),  on  the  Metairie  Ridge,  is  150  acres  in  extent.  The 
Audubon  Park  (PL  A,  B,  4-7),  in  which  the  Great  Exhibition  of 
1884-85  was  held,  and  which  now  holds  the  ‘Sugar  Experimental 
Station’  (PI.  A,  7)  of  the  State  of  Lousiana,  is  a narrow  strip  extending 
back  from  the  river,  being  the  ground  in  which  the  sugar-cane  was 
first  grown  in  this  state.  Both  parks  contain  fine  live-oaks.  — The 
^Cemeteries  of  New  Orleans  are  among  its  recognized  sights,  owing 
to  the  fact  that  the  swampy  nature  of  the  soil  prevents  the  digging 
of  graves  and  requires  the  bodies  to  be  interred  in  mounds  above 
ground.  Their  magnolias  and  live-oaks  are  also  picturesque.  The 
Cypress  Grove  Cemetery  (PI.  B,  1) , near  the  City  Park,  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting.  The  Metairie  Cemetery  (PI.  A,  1),  in  the  same 
district,  contains  the  grave  of  Gen.  Albert  Sydney  Johnston  (1803-62), 
with  an  equestrian  statue.  In  Greenwood  Cemetery  (PI.  B,  1)  is  a 
Monument  to  the  Confederate  Dead.  — The  old  French  Graveyards, 
near  the  Jockey  Club  (PI.  D,  1),  in  Esplanade  St.,  are  interesting, 
albeit  devoid  of  any  sense  of  seclusion  or  repose. 

The  two  following  trips  by  electric  car  give  a good  general  survey  of 
the  town:  — a.  Canal  Belt  Line.  This  follows  the  long  and  dreary 
Canal  Street  (PL  B-F,  1-4),  passing  the  above  mentioned  Cemeteries;  skirts 
the  City  Park  (see  above),  with  its  noble  trees;  crosses  the  Bayou  St.  John, 
with  its  memories  of  Cable’s  ‘Posson  done’ ; passes  the  Fair  Grounds 
(PL  D,  E,  1)  and  Race  Track ; and  returns  via  Esplanade  Avenue  (PL  D-G,  1-3) 
to  Canal  St.  Before  regaining  our  starting-point,  however,  we  may  transfer 
(free)  at  the  corner  of  Esplanade  Ave.  and  Rampart  Sts.  (PL  F.  2),  and 
take  the  Dauphine  St.  car  through  the  business  quarter,  then  by  the  slums 
behind  the  Ursuline  Convent  (p.  465)  and  past  Holy  Cross  College,  to  the 
terminus  near  the  pleasant  TJ.  S.  Barracks,  whence  we  may  walk  along 
the  Levee  to  Chalmette  (see  below).  — b St.  Charles  Avenue  Belt  Line. 
This  leads  from  Canal  St.  via  Baronne  St.  to  St.  Charles  Avenue  (p.  465), 
follows  this  street  to  Auduhon  Park  (see  above),  crosses  the  park,  and 
returns  via  Carrollton  Avenue  (PL  A,  B,  4-2)  and  Tulane  Avenue  (p.  465) 
to  Canal  St. 

Excursions.  Among  the  favourite  resorts  of  the  New  Orleaners  is 
"Lake  Pontchartrain,  which  lies  about  5 M.  to  the  N.  of  the  city  and  is 
40  M.  long  and  25  M.  wide.  A fish  or  game  dinner  at  one  of  the  garden 
restaurants  here  is  a regular  feature  of  a visit  to  New  Orleans.  Spanish 
Fort  Park,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Bayou  St.  John,  marks  the  site  of  a fort 
erected  by  the  Spaniards  to  guard  this  approach  to  the  city.  It  is  reached 
by  a drive  along  the  Shell  Road.  West  End  (West  End  Hotel),  also  reached 
by  the  Shell  Road  or  by  electric  car  (cor.  of  Canal  and  Bourbon  Sts.; 
PL  F,  3),  is  a favourite  boating  and  yachting  resort,  with  the  Southern 
Yacht  Club  House,  and  many  restaurants,  a band-stand,  pavilion,  and  a 
garden  along  the  lake.  Milneburg,  to  theE.  of  Spanish  Fort,  is  reached  by 
railway  from  Old  Lake  Station  (PI.  G,  2,  3) , at  the  corner  of  the  Elysian 
Fields  and  Chartres  St.,  or  from  the  Louisville  & Nashville  Station 
(p.  461).  — The  site  of  the  Battlefield  of  New  Orleans  (see  p.  463)  is  at 
Chalmette,  on  the  Mississippi,  about  5 M.  to  the  E.  of  Canal  St  , and  may 
be  reached  by  carriage  or  electric  car  (comp,  above).  Before  reaching 
the  battlefield  we  pass  several  old-time  Creole  mansions.  The  site  of  the 
battle  is  marked  by  an  unfinished  monument,  but  nothing  marks  the  graves 
of  the  American  and  British  soldiers.  The  National  Cemetery,  hard  by, 
contains  12,000  graves  of  Union  soldiers  of  the  Civil  War.  — - The  Carrollton 
Gardens  lie  to  the  N.  of  the  city  (electric  car.).  — A visit  to  one  of  the 
Sugar  Plantations  on  the  Mississippi  will  be  found  interesting;  the  most 


DEVIL’S  LAKE. 


52.  Route.  467 


notable  are  the  Ames,  McCall,  and  Kernoclian  Plantations.  — Good  wild- 
fowl shooting  and  fishing  are  obtained  all  round  New  Orleans. 

Longer  excursions  may  be  made  to  Bayou  Teche  (p.  594),  Pass  Christian 
(p.  422),  Bay  St,  Louis  (p.  422),  Mobile  (p.  421),  the  Eads  Jetties  (p.  407),  etc. 

From  New'  Orleans  to  New  York.,  see  K.E..  67  a,  67  b;  to  Pensacola  and 
Jacksonville.,  see  R.  80 ; to  Mobile.,  see  pp.  422,  421 ; to  points  in  Texas  and 
California.,  see  RR.  104,  105;  to  Cincinnati,  see  R.  62;  to  St,  Louis,  see  R.  63; 
to  Louisville,  see  R.  62,  b,  c ; to  Chicago,  see  R.  63. 


82,  From  St.  Paul  to  Everett  and  Seattle. 

1823  M.  Gkeat  Northern  Railway  to  (1790  M.)  Everett  and  (1823  M.) 
Seattle  in  about  2®/!  days  (fare,  1st  class  $50,  2nd  cl.  $40;  sleeper  $13.50, 
family  tourist-car  $ 5).  Through-carriages  also  run  by  this  route  to  (1181  M.) 
Helena  in  35  hrs.  (fare  $40;  sleeper  $8)  and  to  (1254  M.)  Butte  in  37  hrs. 
(same  fares).  Free  Colonist  Sleeping  Cars  are  attached  to  all  through-trains. 
— Harvest  Trains,  see  p.  374. 

The  G.  N.  R.  through-trains  for  Portland  (1928  M.)  follow  this  route 
to  Spokane  (p.  475)  and  run  thence  over  the  Oregon  R.  R.  <fe  Nav.  Co’s  line 
to  Umatilla  (see  p.  478),  where  they  join  the  route  described  at  p.  505  (fares 
as  given  at  p.  470). 

From  St.  Paul  to  (220  M.)  Barnesville,  see  p.  367.  At  (300  M.) 
Croohston  we  cross  the  Red  Lake  River  and  turn  to  the  left  (W.). 

Some  trains  run  from  Barnesville  to  Grand  Forks  via  Fargo  (comn. 
p.  375). 

At  (322  M.)  Grand  Forks  (p.  378)  we  cross  the  Red  River  and 
the  Manitoba-Pacific  route  (R.  54)  and  enter  North  Dakota  (p.  471), 
continuing  to  traverse  a great  wheat-country  and  passing  numerous 
small  stations.  — 411  M.  DeviVs  Lake  (1490  ft.;  Sevilla  Ho.,  The 
Oakwood,  $2)  lies  on  the  N.  shore  of  the  large  lake  of  that  name, 
50  M.  long  and  2-8  M.  wide,  with  good  bathing  and  fishing  (pick- 
erel, etc.).  On  the  S.  shore  lie  Fort  Totten,  a U.  S.  military  post 
(reached  by  steamer) , and  the  Cathead  Sioux  Indian  Reservation. 
Flocks  of  wild  geese  are  often  seen  from  the  train  in  this  region  in 
spring  and  autumn.  — From  (430  M.)  Church's  Ferry  and  (468  M.) 
Rugby  lines  run  N.  to  points  in  the  Turtle  Mts.  At  (487  M.)  Towner 
and  again  at  (529  M.)  Minot,  where  we  change  to  ‘Mountain’  time 
(p.  xviii)  , we  cross  the  Mouse  River.  At.  (487  M.)  Williston  we 
reach  the  Upper  Missouri  River ^ which  flows  to  the  left.  670  M.  Fort 
Buford,  an  important  military  station,  lies  on  the  Missouri,  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  (p.  472).  Farther  on  we  enter  Montana 
(p.  472).  736  M.  Poplar,  a military  post,  with  a large  Indian  school. 
Beyond  (792  M.)  Nashua  we  leave  the  Missouri  and  follow  the  Milk 
River,  through  ar grazing  district.  806  M.  Glasgow;  638 M.  Bowdoin; 
902  M.  Savoy.  Near  (938  M.)  Chinook  the  Bear  Paw  Mts.  and  the 
Little  Rockies,  spurs  of  the  Rocky  Mts.,  are  seen  to  the  left. 

From  (959  M.)  Havre  (2480  ft.)  a line  runs  to  the  left  (S.)  to 
Great  Falls,  Helena,  and  Butte. 

From  Havre  to  (222  M.)  Helena  and  (295  M.)  Butte,  Great  Nortbern 
Railway  in  10-14  brs.  — 1 his  line  actually  quits  the  trunk  line  at  (4  M ) Pacific 
Junction  (p.  468).  7 M.  Fort  Assiniboine,  amid  the  foot-hills  of  the  Bear  Paw 
Mts.,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  best-equipped  military  posts  in  the  United 

30* 


468  Route  82. 


GREAT  FALLS. 


From  St.  Paul 


Staples,  and  has  a garrison  of  coloured  troops.  — 79  M.  Fort  Benton^  on 
the  Missouri^  which  the  line  now  follows.  — 124  M.  Great  Falls  (3200  ft. ; 
Park  Hotel.,  from  $ 3)  is  a brisk  and  growing  little  industrial  city  of  (1900) 
14,930  inhab.,  with  large  copper-smelting  works.  It  derives  its  name  and 
importance  from  the  falls  formed  here  by  the  Missouri,  with  a total  descent 
of  500  ft.  The  river  contracts  here  from  a width  of  upwards  of  1/2  M.  to 
one  of  3()0  yds.  and  descends  over  the  Black  Eagle  Falls  (50  ft.).  Colters  Falls. 
(12  ft.).  Crooked  Falls  (20  ft.),  "Rainhow  Falls  (48  ft.),  and  Great  Falls  (92  ft.). 
Near  Eainbow  Falls  is  the  Giant  Spring  Fall.,  formed  by  a spring  or  river 
bursting  from  the  bank  of  the  Missouri,  20  ft.  above  the  channel.  Branch- 
lines run  S.  from  Great  Falls  to  (64  M.)  Barker  and  (66  M.)  Neihart  (Belt  Mts.) 
and  N.  to  (199  M.)  Lethbridge  (Canada).  — About  50 M.  beyond  Great  Falls 
the  train  enters  the  Prickly  Pear  Canon.,  threading  the  -Gate  of  the  Moun- 
tains, where  the  Missouri  breaks  through  the  rocky  mountain-wall.  Farther 
on  we  leave  the  river.  — 222  M.  Helena,  see  p.  473.  — From  Helena  to 
(295  M.)  Butte,  see  p.  473.  At  Butte  we  make  connection  with  the  Union 
Pacific  Railway  for  points  to  the  W.  (comp.  p.  503). 

Beyond  Havre  our  line  runs  nearly  due  W.  through  a grazing 
country,  with  tLe  Sweet  Grass  Hills  to  the  N.  963  M.  Pacific  Junction 
(p.  467).  At  (1039  M.)  Galata  (3370  ft.)  vre  have  our  first  view  of 
the  Rocky  Mts.  (see  below).  1064  M.  Shelby  Junction  (3275  ft.),  for 
lines  to  Great  Falls  (see  above)  and  Lethbridge  (Canada).  1115  M. 
Blackfoot  (4140  ft.),  in  the  Blackfeet  Reservation,  which  contains 
about  2000  Indians;  the  Government  Agency  and  School  are  seen 
to  the  right  (N.)  a little  farther  on.  To  the  N.W.,  in  the  distance, 
towers  tile  slender  Chief  Mt.  (10,800  ft.).  At  (1149  M.)  Summit 
(5200  ft.)  we  cross  the  Rocky  Mts.,  at  an  elevation  300-2500  ft.  lower 
than  that  of  any  other  American  railway  (comp.  pp.  474,  497).  The 
scenery  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  Great  Divide  is  imposing.  — 1194  M. 
Belton  (3210  ft.). 

This  is  the  station  for  -Lake  McDonald  (3000  ft.),  a charming  lake  17  M. 
long  and  4-5  M.  broad,  situated  3 M.  to  the  N.,  in  the  heart  of  the  Rockies. 
It  is  traversed  by  a steam-launch,  and  at  the  N.  end  is  the  Glacier  House, 
an  unpretending  inn,  whence  excursions  may  be  made  to  the  "Speri'y 
Glacier,  ’^Avalanche  Basin  and  Lake  (40C0  ft.) , and  other  points. 

We  cross  the  Flathead  River  near  (1209  M.)  Columbia  Falls. 
1224  M.  Kalispell  (2945  ft.),  the  chief  town  of  the  Flathead  Valley. 
At  (1255  M.)  Haskell  Pass  (4145  ft.)  we  cross  the  Cabinet  Mts. 
(tunnel),  on  the  other  side  of  which  we  follow  the  Kootenai  River, 
through  a district  of  gold  and  silver  mines.  Near  (1305  M.)  Jennings 
(2110  ft.)  we  enter  Idaho  (p.  475).  1328  M.  Kootenai  Falls.  At 
(1335  M.)  Troy  (1880  ft.)  we  pass  from  ‘Mountain’  to  ‘Pacific’  time 
(p.  xviii).  From  (1367  M.)  BonnePs  Ferry  (1760  ft.)  the  new  Koo- 
tenai Valley  Railway  runs  to  the  Kootenai  Lake  District  of  British  Co- 
lumbia (comp.  Baedeker  s Canada').  The  line  now  bends  to  the  S. 
1407  M.  Sand  Point,  on  Lake  Pend  d' Oreille  (p.  475).  Farther  on  we 
cross  the  Priest  River  and  Clark's  Fork  of  the  Columbia.  We  enter 
the  State  of  Washington  (p.  475)  at  (1430  M.)  Newport  (2120  ft.). 

1475  M.  Spokane  (1910  ft.),  see  p.  475.  Beyond  Spokane  the 
line  runs  almost  due  W.,  crossing  the  Big  Bend  Wheat  Region.  In 
the  harvest-season  we  may  sometimes  catch  a glimpse  of  a ‘header’, 
a machine,  drawn  by  about  20  horses,  which  cuts,  threshes,  and 


to  Seattle. 


SEATTLE. 


82.  Route.  469 


cleans  the  wheat  and  packs  it  in  sacks.  1510  M.  Edwall;  15*27  M. 
Harrington  (2165  ft.).  We  now  descend,  and  at  (1638  M.)  Rock 
Island  Rapids  we  cross  the  Columbia  River  (p.  505),  which  we  follow 
to  (1649  M.)  Wenatchee  (630  ft.),  whence  steamers  ply  to  *Lake 
Chelan^  situated  amid  splendid  mountain  and  glacier  scenery.  The 
line  then  follows  the  Wenatchee  for  many  miles.  At  (1660  M.)  Old 
Mission  (785  ft.)  beautiful  red  and  yellow  roses  are  offered  for  sale 
in  summer  (5  c.  a basket).  Beyond  (1670  M.)  Leavenworth  (1165  ft.) 
we  pass  through  the  picturesque  Canon.  Two  engines 

are  needed  to  haul  the  train  up  the  ascent  of  the  Cascade  Mts. 
(p.  476).  1705  M.  Cascade  Tunnel  Station  (3375  ft.)  lies  at  the  E. 
end  of  the  huge  tunnel  (21/2  M.  long)  bored  through  the  range  in 
1897-1900,  at  a cost  of  $ 2,500,000.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  tunnel, 
which  is  2000  ft.  below  the  top  of  the  mountain  above  and  saves 
9 M.  of  curves  and  zigzags,  is  (1707V2  M.)  Wellington  (3125  ft.). 
We  now  descend  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Cascade  Range.  The  train 
runs  through  vast  forests  and  along  the  Skykomish  River  to  (1752  M.) 
Index  (515  ft.),  Snohomish  (1781  M. ; p.  470),  and  — 

1790  M.  Everett  {Monte  Crislo  ^ ^ new  and  prosperous 

little  industrial  city  (7838  inhab.  in  1900)  on  Puget  Sound  (p.  597), 
where  we  reach  tide-water.  Mt.  Baker  (p.  597)  is  visible  to  the  N., 
Mt.  Olympus  to  the  W.,  and  Mt.  Rainier  (p.  478)  to  the  S. 

The  Great  Northern  Railway  forks  at  Everett,  one  branch  running 
to  the  N.  to  Vancouver  (see  p.  470),  while  the  main  line  turns  to  the 
left  (S.)  and  runs  along  Puget  Sound  to  — 

1823  M.  Seattle  (three  syllables  5 The  Rainier- Grand ^ Brunswick^ 
Butler.,  Cecil,  R.  at  these  from  $ 1 ; Seattle.  $ 21/2)  K-  from  $ 1),  finely 
situated  in  Elliot  Bay.,  on  a series  of  terraces  rising  from  the  shore  of 
the  Sound,  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  energetic  cities  of  the  Pacific 
North-West  and  the’commercial  centre  of  Puget  Sound.  Founded  in 
1852  and  named  after  an  Indian  chief,  it  had  3533  inhab.  in  1880, 
42,837  in  1890,  and  80,671  in  1900.  Its  prosperity  is  the  more  re- 
markable as  almost  the  whole  of  the  business-quarters  was  burned 
down  in  1889;  but  this  calamity  seems,  as  in  the  case  of  Chicago 
(p.  349),  to  have  served  merely  as  an  opportunity  for  rebuilding  the 
city  in  a more  substantial  manner,  and  for  laying  out  public  parks. 
Among  the  best  buildings  are  the  Court  House.,  the  Opera  House,  the 
High  School,  the  Providence  Hospital,  the  Carnegie  Library,  and  the 
State  University  (650  students).  At  Magnolia  Bluff  is  a U.  S.  Army 
Post.  The  higher  parts  of  the  city  command  splendid  views  of  the 
Olympic  Mts.  — The  spacious  Harbour,  with  its  numerous  wharves, 
and  the  largest  dry- dock  of  the  coast,  is  entered  and  cleared  annually 
by  about  1000  vessels,  the  chief  exports  being  coal  (500,000  tons), 
timber,  hops,  and  fish.  The  value  of  its  manufactures  in  1900  was 
$26,373,400.  Iron  has  also  been  found  in  the  neighbourhood.  Seattle 
is  the  chief  entrepdt  of  the  Alaskan  Gold  Fields  (p.597). 


470  Route  83. 


LITTLE  FALLS. 


About  2 M.  to  the  E.  of  Elliot  Bay  lies  *Lake  Washing  ton  (easily 
reached  by  electric  tramway),  a beautiful  sheet  of  fresh  water,  20  M.  long  and 
2-5  M.  wide.  Small  steamers  ply  to  various  points  on  the  lake,  affording 
beautiful  views  of  the  Cascade  Mts.  (p.  476). 

The  traveller  should  not  fail  to  make  the  excursion  to  the  *Snoqualmie 
Falls  (270  ft.  high),  easily  done  in  a day  by  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway 
(56  M.,  via  Woodinville). 

From  Seattle  to  Vancouver,  168  M. , Great  Northern  Railway  in 

8 hrs.  This  line  runs  to  the  N.  along  the  E.  bank  of  Puget  Sound  and 
Washington  Sound.  From  Seattle  to  (33  M.)  Everett^  see  p.  469.  5572  M. 
Stanwood;  95  M.  Fairhaven^  a thriving  little  place  (4223  inhab.)  on  Belling- 
ham Bay;  98  M.  New  Whatcom  (Byron,  $2-372),  also  on  Bellingham  Bay 
(6834  inhab.).  Beyond  (119  M.)  Blaine  we  enter  British  Columlia.  143V2  M. 
New  Westminster  {Gtni&hon,  $2-3;  Depot  Ho.,  $1-3),  with  6500  inhab.,  is  the 
oldest  settlement  in  this  region.  At  (156  M.)  Port  Moody  we  join  the  main 
line  of  the  Can.  Pac.  Railway.  — 163  M.  Vancouver,  see  BaedekeFs  Canada. 

From  Seattle  to  Vancouver  by  Northern  Pacific  Railway , 178  M. , in 

9 hrs.  This  line  also  runs  directly  to  the  N.  along  the  E,  shore  of  Puget 
Sound.  — From  (38  M.)  Snohomish  (cOOO  inhab. ; New  Brunswick,  $ 2)  branch- 
railways  run  to  (8  M.)  Everett  (p.  469)  and  to  (50  M.)  Monte  Cristo.,  while  stage- 
lines start  here  for  the  gold  and  silver  mining  camps  at  Snltan  River  and 
Silver  Creek.  — 46  M.  Hartford;  60  M.  Arlington;  86  M.  Sedro -Woolley,  the 
junction  with  the  Great  Northern  Railway.  At  (126  M.)  Sumas,  our  train 
enters  British  Columbia  and  joins  the  Can.  Pac.  Railway.  136  M.  Mission 
Junction;  161  M.  Westminster  Junction,  for  (9M.)  New  Westminster  (see  above). 
— 178  M.  Vancouver,  see  BaedekeFs  Canada. 

From  Seattle  to  Tacoma  by  railway,  see  p.  477 ; to  N.  Yakima  and  Pasco 
Junction  (for  the  E.),  see  p.  478.  Lines  also  run  to  various  other 

Steamer  from  Seattle  to  Tacoma,  Victoria,  and  Alaska,  see  R.  105. 
Steamers  also  ply  to  other  ports  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  to  Japan,  and  to 
Europe. 

83.  From  St.  Paul  to  Tacoma,  Seattle,  and  Portland. 

2053  M.  Northern  Pacific  Railway  to  (1909  M.)  Tacoma  in  60  hrs. 
(1st  class  fare  for  continuous  passage  $50,  available  for  30  days  $60; 
2nd  class  fare  $40;  sleeper  $ 12),  to  (1913  M.)  Seattle  in  60  hrs.  (same 
fares),  and  to  (2053  M.)  Portland  in  71  hrs.  (same  fares).  Duluth  (p.  370)  is 
also  one  of  the  E.  termini  of  this  line,  the  line  thence  uniting  with  the 
St.  Paul  line  at  Staples  (see  p.  471).  ^ ^ 

This  important  railway  crosses  a district  of  immense  agricultural  and 
mineral  wealth  and  forms  one  of  the  main  lines  of  communication  between 
the  E.  and  W.  coasts  of  the  United  States,  besides  affording  convenient  access 
to  British  Columbia,  Vancouver  Island,  and  Alaska.  Much  of  the  scenery 
on  the  W.  portion  of  the  line  is  very  fine,  and  the  branch-line  from  Livingston 
(see  p.  473)  affords  a direct  route  from  the  N.  to  the  wonderful  Yellowstone 
Park  (R.  84;  through-sleepers  to  Gardiner,  p.  482). 

St.  Paul,  see  p.  365.  The  train  follows  the  E.  hank  of  the  Mm- 
issippi  (views  to  the  left),  passing  the  State  Fair  Buildings  (p.  367) 
and  Hamline  University.  At  (11  M.)  Minneapolis  (see  p.  367)  we 
cross  and  recross  the  river.  29  M.  Anoka  (p.  375);  41  M.  Elk  River 
(p.  375);  76  M.  St.  Cloud  (p.  375).  Onr  line  now  parts  company 
with  that  of  the  Great  Northern  Railway  (R.  82).  77  M.  Sauk  Rapids. 
From  (108  M.)  Little  Falls  (Buckman,  $2-21/2),  ^^ere  we  leave  the 
Mississippi  Yalley,  branch-lines  run  to  (30  M.)  Brainerd  (1200  ft.), 
an  industrial  city  with  (1900)  7524  inhab.  and  the  N.  P.  R.  work- 
shops (on  the  line  to  Puluth,  p.  370),  and  to  (60  M.)  Glenwood  and 
(88  M.)  Morris. 


MOORHEAD. 


83.  Route.  471 


From  Brainerd  tlie  Minnesota  & International  Railway  runs  to  (61  M.) 
Walker  (Chase  Hotel),  on  Leech  Lake  (37  M.  long  and  17  M.  wide),  in  the 
midst  of  a fine  shooting  and  fishing  district^  to  (92  M.)  Bemidji^  on  the 
lake  of  that  name^  and  to  (132  M.)  Northome. 

The  main  line  crosses  the  Mississippi  and  runs  direct  (N.W.)  to 
(142  M.)  Staples,  where  the  trains  from  Duluth  come  in  (see  p.  470). 
159  M.  Wadena  is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (69  M.)  Fergus 
Falls  and  (168  M.)  Oahes^  where  it  connects  with  the  branch-line 
running  N.  to  Jamestown  (see  below).  172  M.  New  York  Mills,  with 
a large  settlement  of  Finns.  Many  small  lakes  are  passed.  — 204  M. 
Detroit  (1364  ft.;  Minnesota,  $2),  on  a pretty  lake,  has  mineral 
springs  and  excellent  shooting  and  fishing.  About  25  M.  to  the  N. 
is  the  White  Earth  Reservation  of  the  Chippewa  or  Ojibway  Indians. 
— 224  m.  Winnipeg  Junction,  for  a line  to  (257  M.)  Winnipeg 
(R.  54c).  At  (241  M.)  Glyndon  we  cross  the  Great  Northern  Railway. 

249  M.  Moorhead  (905  ft. ; Columbia,  $2-2^2),  a thriving  flour- 
making city  of  (1900)  3730  inhab.,  lies  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Red 
River  of  the  North,  opposite  (250  M.)  Fargo  {Metropole,  $2-3 ; Wal- 
dorf, $2-31/2))  another  busy  grain-trading  city  (9589  inhab.),  which 
lies  in  North  Dakota  (‘Great  Cereal  State’).  Fargo  is  the  junction  of 
a line  to  (88  M.)  La  Maure  and  (110  M.)  Edgeley. 

From  Moorhead  to  Winnipeg,  see  R.  54. 

In  traversing  N.  Dakota  we  pass  some  of  the  huge  prairie  farms 
for  which  the  ‘Great  North-West’  is  famous. 

Some  of  these  ‘Bonanza’  farms  are  10-70  sq.  M.  in  extent,  and  it  is 
no  unfrequent  sight  to  see  a row  of  20  or  more  ploughs,  harrows,  seeders, 
or  reapers  at  work  at  once.  Continuous  furrows  have  been  ploughed  for 
many  miles  in  a straight  line.  Harvesting  generally  begins  about  Aug.  1st 
and  the  vast  expanses  of  yellow  grain  afford  an  extraordinary  and  very 
beautiful  sight.  A yield  of  20-25  bushels  per  acre  is  often  attained.  North 
Dakota,  in  a good  year,  produces  60-65  million  bushels  of  wheat. 

Near  (270  M.)  Casselton  (junction  of  a line  to  Marion,  60  M.)  is 
the  great  Dalrymple  Farm,  with  an  area  of  15,000  acres  (23  sq.  M.). 
292  M.  Tower  City,  with  a mineral  artesian  well.  308  M.  Valley 
City,  on  the  Sheyenne  River.  From  (319  M.)  Sanborn,  a branch-line 
goes  N.  to  (37  M.)  Cooperstown  and  (63  M.)  McHenry.  — 343  M. 
Jamestown  (1395  ft. ; Gladstone,  $ 2-21/2),  a busy  agricultural  centre 
with  2853  inhab.,  the  A.  Dakota  Insane  Hospital,  and  a Presby- 
terian College,  is  prettily  situated  on  the  James  or  Dakota  River. 

A branch-line  runs  hence  to  the  N.  to  (90  M.)  Minnewaukan,  on  Devil  s 
Lake  (p.  467),  and  (108  M.)  Leeds,  while  another  runs  to  the  S.  to  (69  M.) 
Oakes  (see  above). 

The  line  now  traverses  the  rolling  district  between  the  James 
and  the  Missouri  known  as  the  Coteaux  (400  ft.  above  the  rivers). 
Several  small  stations.  — 445  M.  Bismarck  (1670  ft.;  Northwest, 
from  $ 2),  the  capital  of  N.  Dakota,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Missouri, 
here  about  400  yds.  wide.  It  is  the  headquarters  of  navigation  on 
the  Upper  Missouri  and  contains  the  State  Capitol,  Fort  Lincoln 
(comp.  p.  472),  and  several  other  U.  S.  institutions.  Pop.  3319. 

The  train  crosses  the  river  by  a fine  steel  and  iron  truss-bridge, 


472  Route  83. 


PYRAMID  PARK. 


From  St,  Paul 


with  three  main  spans  of  400  ft.  each,  50  ft.  above  high-w'ater. 
450  M.  Mandan  (Inter-Ocean,  $2;  McKinley,  $2),  on  the  W.  hank. 
We  change  here  from  ‘Central’  to  ‘Mountain’  time  (1  hr.  slower ; see 
p.  xviii).  Fine  mounted  heads  and  fur-rugs  are  sold  at  the  station. 
About  6 M.  to  the  S.  lies  old  Fort  Abraham  Lincoln  (abandoned). 
Near  Mandan  are  numerous  prehistoric  mounds  and  other  remains.  We 
cross  the  Heart  River  several  times  in  rapid  succession.  The  district 
we  now  traverse  is  very  sparsely  populated.  Large  numbers  of  prairie- 
dogs  (a  kind  of  marmot)  are  seen.  Sharp  conical  elevations  known 
as  ‘buttes’  (pron.  butes)  rise  from  the  plain  in  all  directions.  Near 
(549  M.)  Gladstone  we  again  cross  the  Heart  River.  560  M.  Dickinson, 
At  (580  M.)  Belfield  we  enter  the  district  known  as  *Bad  Lands  or 
Pyramid  Park,  where  the  buttes  have  been  carved  by  the  action  of 
fire  and  water  into  the  most  fantastic  shapes.  The  colouring  is  also 
very  variegated.  The  name  ‘Bad  Lands'  refers  properly  to  the  diffi- 
culty of  travel  and  not  to  the  soil,  which  affords  excellent  grazing. 
— From  (600  M.)  Medora  (2265  ft. ; hotel),  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
Little  Missouri,  we  may  visit  Pyramid  Park  and  the  Burning  Mine 
(7  M.).  About  16  M.  farther  on  the  curious  Sentinel  Butte  is  con- 
spicuous to  the  left,  and  in  8 M.  more  we  enter  Montana  (‘Bonanza 
State’),  the  third-largest  state  of  the  Union,  in  which  cattle  and 
sheep  raising  and  mining  are  the  chief  industries.  The  native 
‘bunch  grass’,  which  cures  itself  and  stands  as  hay  throughout  the 
winter,  forms,  excellent  fodder. 

666  M.  Qlendive  (2070  ft.)  lies  among  picturesque  scenery  on 
the  S.  bank  of  the  Yellowstone  River,  which  the  line  now  follows  for 
a long  distance.  Numerous  small  tributaris  of  the  Yellowstone  are 
crossed.  — 745  M.  Miles  City  (2350  ft.;  Leighton,  $3),  a busy  little 
place  at  the  confluence  of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Tongue.  747  M. 
Fort  Keogh,  an  important  U.  S.  military  post  (9  companies)  ; 778  M. 
Rosebud,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Rosebud  River;  833  M.  Big  Horn 
(2690  ft.),  at  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Horn  River,  which  we  cross 
by  a long  bridge.  We  then  thread  a tunnel  1100  ft.  long.  About 
30  M.  to  the  S.  of  (839  M.)  Custer  (coach)  is  Fort  Custer,  and 
15  M.  farther  to  the  S.  is  the  spot  where  Gen.  Custer  and  his  com- 
mand of  over  250  men  were  annihilated  by  the  Sioux  in  1876  (the 
‘Ouster  Massacre’;  comp.  p.  496).  Fort  Custer  lies  in  the  midst  of 
an  extensive  territory  to  the  S.  of  this  part  of  the  Yellowstone,  which 
has  been  set  apart  as  a reservation  for  the  Crow  Indians  (ca.  3000 
in  number).  At  (863  M.)  Pompey^s  Pillar,  the  rock  of  that  name 
rises  on  the  right,  so  christened  by  Capt.  Wm.  Clark  (Lewis  and  Clark 
Expedition)  in  1806.  To  the  left,  near  Billings,  is  Skull  Butte,  so 
named  from  an  Indian  legend.  Beyond  (892  M.)  Billings  (3115  it. ; 
Grand,  from  $ 3)  the  scenery  increases  in  grandeur,  and  snow-capped 
mountains  appear  in  the  distance.  From  Billings  to  Lincoln,  by  the 
Burlington  system,  see  p.  496.  — The  train  crosses  the  Yellowstone 
and  skirts  its  N.  bank  to  (932  M.)  Columbus,  where  it  returns  to  the 


to  Portland. 


HELENA. 


83.  Route.  473 


S.  side.  973  M.  Big  Timber^  near  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Boulder  Creek 
(good  fishing).  To  the  N.  rise  the  snow- clad  Crazy  Mts.  988  M. 
Springdale^  the  station  for  (2t/2  M.)  Hunter's  Hot  Springs  (hotel; 
148-168®  Eahr.),  at  the  foot  of  the  Crazy  Mts.  Fine  views  of  the 
Little  Belt  Mts.  to  the  right  and  the  Snowy  Range  to  the  left. 

1007  M.  Livingston  (4485ft. ; Albemarle.,  $3),  a city  of  2778  in- 
hab.,  finely  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Big  Belt  and  Snowy  Ranges., 
is  the  junction  of  the  branch-railway  to  Gardiner,  the  station  for 
the  Yellowstone  Park  (see  p.  479).  It  is  a good  centre  for  shooting 
(elk,  deer,  antelope,  bear,  grouse,  geese,  ducks)  and  fishing  (trout, 
grayling).  The  station  is  attractively  built. 

The  train  now  crosses  and  leaves  the  Yellowstone,  which  we 
have  followed  for  340  M.  The  line  mounts  rapidly  (116  ft.  per 
mile)  to  the  Bozeman  Tunnel.,  1170  yds.  long,  which  crosses  the 
Big  Belt  Mts.,  part  of  the  main  range  of  the  Rocky  Mts.,  at  a height 
of  5570  ft.  Beyond  the  tunnel  we  descend  through  the  wild  *Rocky 
Canon  into  the  wide  valley  of  the  Gallatin.  — 1032  M.  Bozeman 
(4750  ft.;  Hotel  Bozeman,  $2^/2),  a busy  little  city  of  3419  inhab., 
on  the  East  Gallatin.  Large  coal-fields  lie  within  8 M.,  and  deposits 
of  gold,  silver,  iron,  and  copper  are  also  worked.  — At  (1057  M.) 
Logan  (4100  ft.)  the  line  forks,  the  right  or  main  branch  running 
via  Helena  and  the  left  branch  via  Butte.  The  two  lines  reunite  at 
Garrison  (p.  474). 

The  line  from  Logan  to  (71  M.)  Butte  runs  through  a district  of  great 
scenic  beauty.  — Butte  (5700  ft.;  Finlen,  $3-5;  Thornton.,  R.  $1V2',  Butte., 
R.  $1),  fi-unded  in  1864,  contains  (BOO)  £0,470  inhab.  (with  the  contiguous 
settlements,  50-60,000)  and  is  probably  the  chief  mining  city  in  the  country. 
It  is  the  seat  of  the  great  Anaconda  Copper  and  Silver  Mine  (fold  in  1898  for 
$45,000,0(  0)  and  other  gold,  silver,  and  copper  mining  companies,  producing 
ore  to  the  annual  value  of  at  least  $25  000,000  (5,0C0,0C0L).  The  annual 
output  of  copper  is  now  about  250  million  pounds.  A visit  to  one  of  the 
chief  mines  is  very  interesting  (introduction  desirable  and  in  some  cases 
necessary).  — The  smelting  works  at  Anaconda  (Montana  Hotel,  from 
$31/2),  25  M.  to  the  W.,  are  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world.  The 
public  fountain  throws  a jet  220  ft.  high.  — The  line  from  Butte  to  (52  M.) 
Garrison  (see  p.  474)  runs  through  the  picturesque  Deer  Lodge  Valley.,  passing 
(40  M.)  Deer  Lodge  City  (4545  ft.;  1324  inhab  ). 

Beyond  Logan  the  main  line  soon  reaches  (1060  M.)  Gallatin 
(4030  ft.),  the  station  for  Three  Forks.,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Mad- 
ison , Jefferson,  and  Gallatin,  which  unite  to  form  the  Missouri. 
Farther  on  we  thread  a wild  canon,  with  the  Missouri  to  the  left  and 
precipitous  walls  of  rock  to  tlie  right.  1126  M.  Prickly  Peo.r  Junction. 

1130  M.  Helena  (3930  ft. ; Helena,  from  $ 3 ; Grandon,  $ 3-5 ; 
Grand  Central,  $2),  the  capital  of  Montana,  is  a mining  city  of 
10,770  inhab.,  finely  situated  in  the  fertile  Prickly  Pear  Valley,  near 
the  E.  base  of  the  main  range  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  The  State  House 
and  some  of  the  other  official  and  commercial  buildings  are  large  and 
substantial,  and  the  streets  are  lighted  by  electricity  and  traversed 
by  electric  tramways.  A visit  to  the  JJ.  S.  Assay  Office  is  interesting. 

Helena  lies  in  the  heart  of  one  of  the  richest  mining  districts  in  the 
country  and  claims  to  be  among  the  wealthiest  cities  of  its  size  in  the 


474  Eoute  83. 


MISSOULA. 


From  St.  Paul 


world.  It  is  said  that  gold  to  the  value  of  at  least  $ 40,000,000  has  been  taken 
from  the  Last  Chance  Gulch^  which  runs  through  the  city^  and  all  round 
the  city  are  valuable  gold  and  silver  bearing  veins  of  quartz,  besides 
deposits  of  copper,  iron,  and  galena. 

About  3 M.  to  the  W.  of  Helena  (reached  by  electric  tramway^  fare  10  c.) 
is  the  huge  Broadwater  Nataiorium  (400  ft.  long  and  150  ft.  wide  ^ adm.  free), 
fed  by  a hot  spring,  the  temperature  of  which  at  its  source  is  about  160° 
(in  bath  about  100°).  The  waters  are  good  for  rheumatism.  — A visit  to 
one  of  the  Gold  or  Silver  Mine^f  in  the  vicinity  is  of  great  interest.  The 
nearest  are  those  at  Grizzly  Gulch ^ 4 M.  to  the  S.W.  One  of  the  most 
famous  is  the  Drum- Lummon  Mine^  20  M.  to  the  K.,  which  has  yielded 
$ 2,000,000  worth  of  gold  and  silver  in  a single  year.  — A steamer  trip 
may  be  made  through  the  Canon  of  the  Missouri. 

Helena  is  also  a station  on  the  Great  Northern  Railway  (see  R.  82)  and 
a pleasant  excursion  may  be  made  by  taking  the  Montana  Central  Division 
of  this  line  to  ^98  M.)  Great  Falls  (p.  468). 

About  21  M.  beyond  Helena  we  cross  the  main  ridge  of  the 
Rocky  Mts.  by  Mullans  Pass^  where  the  train  passes  through  a tun- 
nel 2/3  M.  long  and  5545  ft.  above  sea-level  (summit  of  mountain 
over  tunnel  5870  ft.).  This  is  from  1800  to  2700  ft.  lower  than  the 
passesjof  the  Santa  Fe'  and  Union  Pacific  Railroads  (comp.  pp.  521, 
497).  The  contrast  between  the  E.  and  the  W.  sides  of  the  ‘Great 
Divide’  is  very  striking,  as  we  at  once  pass  from  a scene  of  wild 
rocky  grandeur  to  one  of  mild  pastoral  beauty.  The  line  descends 
rapidly  to  the  valley  of  the  Little  Blackfoot  River.  At  (1181  M.) 
Garrison  (4315  ft.),  on  the  Deer  Lodge  River we  are  joined  by  the 
line  from  Butte  (see  p.  473).  Beyond  Garrison  we  skirt  the  Deer 
Lodge  River,  which  soon  changes  its  name  to  Hell  Gate  River.  The 
fine  snow-clad  pyramid  of  Mt.  Powell  (13,400  ft.)  is  seen  to  the 
left.  Near  (1189  M.)  Gold  Creek  the  last  spike  of  the  Northern 
Pacific  Railroad  v/as  driven  in  1883,  the  tracks  advancing  from  the 
E.  and  the  W.  meeting  here.  Below  (1214  M.)  Bearmouth  (3790  ft.) 
we  pass  into  Hell  Gate  Canon.,  a picturesque  mountain  - flanked 
valley,  2-3  M.  wide.  At  (1248  M.)  Bonner  the  Hell  Gate  River  is 
joined  by  the  Big  Blackfoot  River  (right),  which  we  cross  beyond  the 
station.  — 1255  M.  Missoula  (3195ft.;  Florence,  $3-4;  Missoula, 
$2;  Rankin,  $2;  Kennedy,  $2),  finely  situated  on  the  Hell  Gate  or 
Missoula  River,  near  its  confluence  with  the  Bitter  Root  River,  is  a 
rising  little  city  of  4366  inhab.  and  the  junction  of  the  Bitter  Root 
Valley  branch.  Fort  Missoula  lies  4 M.  to  the  S. 

Hamilton  (Hotel  Ravelli,  $ 3-4),  on  the  Bitter  Root  line,  47  M.  to  the  S., 
is  a pleasant  stopping-place,  with  big  game  and  good  fishing. 

At  (1261  M.)  De  Smet  the  railway  forks,  our  line  keeping  to  the 
right,  while  the  Ooeur  d’Alene  branch  diverges  to  the  left. 

The  CoEDR  d’Alene  Line  runs,  through  grand  mountain  scenery,  into 
the  heart  of  a famous  mining  district.  At  (3U8  M.)  Harrison  it  reaches  the 
lovely  Coeur  d'Alene  Lake,  which  may  be  crossed  to  Coeur  d'Alene  City  (p.  424). 

Beyond  De  Smet  we  cross  the  Marent  Gulch  by  a steel-trestle  226  ft. 
high.  We  then  follow  the  Jocko  River  and  traverse  the  Reservation 
of  the  Flathead  Indians,  a peaceful  tribe  whose  boast  is  that  they 
never  killed  a white  man  ; their  huts  and  ‘teepees’  are  seen  on  both 


to  Portland. 


SPOKANE. 


83.  Route.  475 


sides  of  the  railway.  The  Agency  Buildings  are  visible  at  the  foot  of 
the  Mission  Range^  5 M.  to  the  E.  Near  (1299  M.)  Jocko  the  Jocko 
joins  the  Flathead  or  Pend  d' Oreille^  which  we  now  follow.  Beyond 
(1313  M.)  Perma  (2490  ft.)  we  cross  the  river  hy  a truss-bridge. 
About  8 M.  farther  on  the  Pend  d’Oreille  is  joined  hy  the'Missoula, 
and  the  combined  rivers  take  the  name  of  the  Clark  Fork  of  the 
Columbia.  The  valley  here  is  narrow  and  rocky,  but  at  (1325  M.) 
Paradise  and  (1332  M.)  Plains  (2460  ft.)  it  widelis  into  two  pleasant 
little  plains,  formerly  used  by  the  Indians  as  wintering-places  for 
their  ponies.  The  white  Coeur  d'Alene  Mts.  rise  to  the  left  and  the 
Cabinet  Mts.  to  the  E.  1357  M.  Thompson's  Falls  (2435  ft.),  at  the 
falls  of  the  Clark  Fork  River.  Picturesque  scenery.  Numerous  bridges 
and  cuttings.  At  (1380  M.)  Trout  Creek  we  change  from  ‘Mountain’ 
to  ‘Pacific’  time  (1  hr.  slower;  comp.  p.  xviii).  Near  (1405  M.)  Heron 
(2260  ft.)  we  enter  Idaho  (‘Gem  of  the  Mountains’),  a mountainous 
state,  the  N.  tip  of  which  we  now  traverse.  We  cross  the  river  and 
skirt  the  N.  bank  of  its  expansion,  *Lake  Pend  d'Oreille^  a beautiful 
sheet  of  water  45-50  M.  long  and  3-15  M.  wide.  — 1428  M.  Hope 
(2110  ft. ; Lakeside.,  $ 2),  a railway-division  town  and  tourists’  resort 
on  the  N.  bank  of  the  lake  (boating  and  fishing).  At  (1444  M.)  Sand 
Point  (p.  468)  we  cross  an  arm  of  the  lake  and  then  quit  it.  The 
scenery  retains  its  wild  character  for  several  miles  and  then  we  cross 
vast  plains  hemmed  in  by  hills  as  far  as  Spokane.  The  line  runs 
towards  the  S.  as  far  as  (1486  M.)  Rathdrum  (2210  ft.).  1492  M. 
Hauser  Junction,  for  a line  to  (14  M.)  Coeur  d'Alene  City  (p.  474). 

— We  now  enter  Washington  (‘Evergreen  State^),  an  important 
agricultural  state,  also  remarkable  for  the  splendid  timber  of  its  W. 
slopes.  Beyond  (1497  M.)  Otis  we  cross  the  Spokane  River. 

1513  m.  Spokane  (pron.  Spokan;  1910  ft.;  Spokane  Hotel,  R. 
from  $1;  Grand  Central,  $2-4;  Columbia,  $2-2^2)?  ^ thriving  city 
of  36,848  inhab.,  settled  in  1878  and  in  great  part  rebuilt  since  a 
fire  in  1889,  lies  on  both  banks  of  the  Spokane  River,  in  the  centre 
of  a district  of  great  agricultural  richness. 

The  two  "Falls,  both  within  the  city,  are  150  ft.  in  total  height  and 
furnish  the  water-power  for  numerous  manufactories,  for  the  electric 
lighting  of  the  town,  and  for  its  system  of  cable  and  electric  tramways. 
Visitors  should  descend  to  the  foot  of  the  lower  falls  and  should  also  go 
to  the  bridge  above  the  upper  falls.  Among  the  most  conspicuous  build- 
ings, many  of  which  are  of  extraordinary  size  and  solidity  for  so  small 
and  young  a city,  are  the  ■■'Opera  House.,  which  has  seats  for  2000  people, 
the  Court  House,  and  the  City  Hall.  The  residence-quarter,  on  1he  hill  above 
the  railway  (on  the  opposite  side  from  the  business-quarter),  contains  many 
houses  of  unusually  good  taste.  The  High  School,  in  this  quarter,  is  a 
handsome  red  building,  with  a tower.  A fine  *View  of  the  city  and  valley 
is  obtained  from  the  Cliff  Heights  (reached  by  cable-cars  and  steam-tramway). 

— Several  railways  diverge  from  Spokane. 

From  Spokane  to  Umatilla,  262  M.,  Oregon  Railroad  Navigation  Co.’. 
in  9 hrs.  This  is  the  route  followed  by  the  through-trains  of  the  G.  N.  E,. 
(comp.  p.  467).  — Chief  stations:  50  M.  Tekoa;  105  M.  Winona;  157  M. 
Starbuck;  204  M.  Walla  Walla;  235  M.  Wallula  (p.  476).  At  (262  M.)  Umatilla 
we  join  the  route  described  at  p.  505. 


476  Route  83. 


PASCO. 


From  St.  Paul 


Beyond  Spokane  tlie  line  runs  to  tlie  S.W.  — 152‘2  M.  Marshall 
Junction. 

From  IVIarshall  Jdnction  to  Lewiston,  138  M.,  railway  in  7 hrs.  This 
line  runs  through  the  fertile  Palouse  District.  — From  (136  M.)  Lcvpwai  a 
short  branch-line  runs  to  (12  M.)  Gul-de-Sac.  — 13S  M.  Lewiston.^  at  the  junction 
of  the  Snake  and  Clearwater  rivers. 

[From  Lewiston  a branch-line  runs  through  the  fertile  lands  of  the 
former  Nez  Perci  Reservation  to  (71  M.)  Kooskia.,  on  the  Upper  Clearwater.,  in 
the  Buffalo  Hump  & Florence  Mining  District.] 

From  (1529  M.)  Cheney  (2340  ft.)  a line  runs  to  (124  M.)  Coulee 
City.,  passing  (10  M.)  Medical  Lake.,  a favourite  invalid  resort.  — 
Beyond  (1554  M.)  Sprague  (1910  ft.)  we  pass  Colville  Lake  (left). 
We  now  traverse  an  elevated  pasturage-district. 

1658  M.  Pasco.,  near  the  confluence  of  the  Columbia  and  Snake 
Rivers^  is  the  junction  of  the  line  into  the  Walla- Walla  and  Pendle- 
ton country. 

This  line  crosses  the  Snake  River  by  a long  iron  bridge  and  joins  the 
Oregon  R.R.  and  Nav.  Co.  at  (16  M.)  Wallula  Junction  (see  p.  475).  Follow- 
ing this  lino  for  27  M.  more,  we  reach  Umatilla.  Thence  to  (187  M.)  Port- 
land., see  R.  88. 

Our  line  crosses  the  Columbia  and  follows  the  valley  of  the  Yakima 
(river  to  the  right)  towards  the  N.W.  Beyond  (1698  M.)  Prosser 
we  traverse  the  Yakima  Indian  Reservation.  The  white  cap  of  Mt. 
Adams  (12,470  ft.),  one  of  the  loftiest  of  the  Cascade  Mts.  (see 
below),  is  seen  to  the  left.  — 1747  M.  North  Yakima  (990  ft.), 
with  3154  inhab.,  is  the  entrepot  of  the  Yakima  Basin.,  a district 
in  which  large  quantities  of  fruit,  vegetables,  hops,  alfalfa,  and 
tobacco  are  grown  by  dint  of  irrigation  We  now  cross  the  river 
and  have  it  to  our  left.  Farther  on  we  pass  through  the  fine  * Yakima 
Canon  (15  M.  long)  and  enter  the  Kittitas  Basin,  another  fertile 
valley,  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  green  Cascade  Mts.,  with  the 
white  peak  of  Mt.  Rainier  or  Tacoma  (p.  478)  rising  beyond.  1784  M. 
Ellensburg  (1510  ft.),  with  1737  inhab.,  saw-mills,  and  machine- 
shops.  At  (1822  M.)  Easton  the  train  begins  to  ascend  the  E.  slope 
of  the  Cascade  Mts.  (see  below)  at  a gradient  of  116  ft.  per  mile. 
Fine  views.  The  crest  is  penetrated  by  the  Stampede  Tunnel 
(2810  ft.;  height  of  summit  above  the  tunnel  3980  ft.),  nearly 
2 M.  long. 

The  Cascade  Mts.  (a  continuation  of  the  Sierra  Nevada;  see  p.  500)  are 
a broad  volcanic  plateau,  with  many  snow-peaks  (9000-14,500  ft. ; average 
• height  6000  ft.),  running  through  Washington  and  Oregon  from  N.  to  S.  and 
dividing  these  states  into  two  regions  diddering  widely  in  climate,  surface, 
and  vegetation.  The  region  we  now  enter  on  the  W.  slope  has  a mild, 
moist  climate  (not  unlike  that  of  England),  and  is  covered  with  dense 
forests,  mainly  of  coniferous  trees. 

We  now  descend  into  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Green  River, 
passing  round  winding  curves,  through  tunnels,  and  over  trestles, 
with  numerous  picturesque  glimpses.  1849  M.  Hot  Springs  (Hotel 
Kloeber),  a small  health-resort.  — 1869  M.  Palmer  Junction. 

From  Palmer  Junction  a branch-line,  formerly  followed  by  the  jhrough 
trains,  runs  to  (43  M.)  Tacoma  through  the  valleys  of  the  White  River  and 


to  Portland, 


TACOMA. 


S3.  Route.  477 


the  Puyallwp  (Poo-allup).  Frequent  -Views  ofMt.  Eainier  are  obtained  to 
the  left,  sometimes  to  the  S.,  sometimes  to  the  E.  of  Ihe  line.  It  rejoins 
the  main  line  at  (33  M.)  Meeker  (see  below). 

From  Palmer  the  main  line  goes  by  the  ‘Palmer  Cnt-off’  to 
(1890  M.)  Auhurn,  whence  most  of  the  through-trains  run  to  the  N. 
to  (1913  M.)  Seattle  (p.  469),  one  of  the  W.  termini  of  the  N.  P.  Rail- 
way. Passengers  for  Tacoma  and  Portland  usually  change  carriages 
at  Auburn,  but  in  some  cases  retain  their  seats  and  are  carried  up 
to  Seattle,  back  to  Auburn,  and  so  to  their  destination. 

The  line  for  Tacoma  and  Portland  runs  to  the  S.  (left)  from 
Auburn.  1897  M.  Summer;  1899  M.  Meeker, 

1901  M.  Puyallup  (70ft.;  Puyallup^  $1-3),  a town  of  1884 
inhab.,  is  the  centre  of  a rich  hop-district,  with  numerous  drying- 
kilns  (very  unlike  the  ‘cowls’  of  Kent).  It  is  also  the  headquarters  of 
the  Puyallup  Indian  Reservation.  Export  hoppickers,  many  of  whom 
are  Indians,  can  earn  $ 11/2-2  (6- 8a.}  per  day  (compared  with  3-4s. 
in  England). 

1909  M.  Tacoma  (30  ft.;  Tacoma  $3-5;  Donnelly^  Touristy 
$ 1),  an  industrial  city  and  seaport  of  (1900)  37,714  inhab.  and  one  of 
the  W.  termini  of  the  N.  Pacific  Railway,  is  finely  situated  on  a series 
of  terraces  rising  from  the  head  of  Commencement  Bay,  the  S.E.  arm 
6f  Puget  Sound  (p.  597).  It  commands  fine  views  of  the  Sound,  the 
Cascade  Mts.,  and  the  grand  white  cone  of  Mt.  Rainier  (S.E. ; see 
p.  478).  Though  scarcely  30  years  old  (300  inhab.  in  1875,  760  in 
1880),  Tacoma  possesses  numerous  substantial  streets  and  buildings. 
Its  industrial  establishments  include  largo  saw -mills,  foundries, 
smelting  works,  railway-workshops,  iron  and  stove  works,  breweries, 
flour  mills,  etc. ; and  it  carries  on  an  extensive  trade  in  grain,  lum- 
ber, coal,  tea,  silk,  and  other  articles.  Among  the  principal  build- 
ings are  the  Court  House,  the  City  Hall,  the  Opera  House,  the  Cham- 
ber  of  Commerce,  the  Carnegie  TAbrary,  St.  Leo's  R.  C.  Church,  the 
Offices  of  the  N.  Pacific  Railway,  and  the  Annie  Wright  Seminary. 
In  the  Court  House  is  housed  the  Ferry  Museum,  which  contains  an 
interesting  collection  of  Indian  baskets,  domestic  utensils,  canoes, 
and  implements  of  hunting  and  war,  as  well  as  casts,  prints,  and 
armour  (open  daily,  2-5;  on  Thurs.  & Sun.  10  c.,  other  days  25  c.). 
The  University  of  Puget  Sound  (‘200  students)  was  incorporated  in 
1903.  A line  of  electric  tramways  connects  the  Railway  Station,  at 
the  end  of  Pacific  Avenue,  the  main  business-street,  with  the  Wharf; 
and  other  electric  or  cable  lines  run  to  the  suburbs.  Point  Defiance, 
Puyallup  (see  above),  etc. 

Many  good  roads  and  bicycle-paths  lead  from  Tacoma  to  the  so-called 
Naivral  Parks,  beginning  6 M.  to  the  S.  of  the  city  and  extending  thence 
for  about  15  M.,  with  a width  of  10  M.  This  large  area,  in  spring  thickly 
carpeted  with  flowers,  is  dotted  with  trees  and  lakes,  the  largest  of  the 
^atler  being  XhQ  American  Lake,  5 M.  long  and  2 M.  wide,  offering  good 
boating  and  fishing.  The  Parks  are  excellent  driving  places,  as  there  is  no 
dust  in  summer  and  no  mud  in  winter. 

Tacoma  is  the  starting-point  of  steamers  to  Alaska  (see  R.  106);  to 


478  Route  S3. 


OLYMPIA. 


jSeatile  (p.  469),  Fori  Townsend  (p.  596),  Olympia  (see  below),  Victoria  (p.  596), 
and  other  points  in  Puget  Sound;  to  San  Francisco  (p.  543)  and  other  Cali- 
fornian ports;  to  China  and  Japan,  etc.  — Tacoma  is  connected  with  Seattle 
(p.  469)  by  the  ^^ortbern  Pacific  Eailway  (41  M.,  in  .IV2  hr.)  and  by  the 
Interurban  Electric  Eailway  (36  M.,  in  IV2  hr.). 

A visit  to  ^Mt.  Eainier  or  Tacoma  (14,530  ft.)  takes  about  3 days.  The 
train  is  taken  to  (32  M.)  Wilkeson^  whence  a bridle-path  leads  to  (25  M.) 
a point  about  Iw  ft.  above  the  sea,  where  a good  view  is  obtained  of 
two  of  the  14  living  glaciers  on  the  mountain.  The  hazardous  ascent  thence 
to  the  summit  should  not  be  attempted  except  by  experts.  Mt.  Eainier, 
like  the  other  isolated  mountains  of  the  Cascade  Eange,  is  an  extinct  vol- 
cano; and  the  two  craters  at  the  summit  still  give  ofl  heat  and  sulphurous 
fumes.  Mountain -goats,  marmots,  and  ptarmigan  are  among  its  fauna. 
Enquiry  as  to  guides  and  horses  should  be  made  at  Tacoma.  — Another 
and  perhaps  finer  trip  may  be  made  to  "Paradise  Park,  on  the  S.  side  of 
Mt.  Eainier.  Trains  run  twice  a day  on  the  new  Tacoma  Eastern  R.  R.  from 
Tacoma  to  (48  M.)  Elhe^  whence  stages  ply  regularly  to  (14  M.)  Longmire's 
Springs  (2850  ft.),  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  Most  travellers  prefer  to 
spend  the  night  here,  though  it  is  possible  to  proceed  on  horseback  the 
same  evening  as  far  as  the  snow-line  at  Paradise  Valley.  A trail  leads 
through  Paradise  Park  from  Longmire’s  Springs  to  the  (7  M.)  Camp  of  the 
Clouds  (6000  ft. ; Hotel  Tent,  meals  and  blankets  $ 2).  The  Alpine  flora  of 
the  Park  is  very  fine.  Close  by  is  * Nisqually  Glacier.,  7 M.  long,  the  finest 
to  the  S.  of  Alaska;  and  many  other  glaciers  and  cascades  may  be  reached 
within  a day's  walk.  The  ascent  of  Mt.  Eainier  from  this  side  is  much 
easier  (2  days).  Other  good  opportunities  for  the  climber  are  afforded  by 
the  ten  jagged  peaks  of  the  Tatoosh  Range  (ca.  7000  ft.). 

From  Tacoma  to  Olympia,  32  M.,  Northern  Pacifc  Railway  in  11/2^  hr.’ 
Some  of  the  Portland  trains  run  by  this  route,  joining  the  route  described 
below  at  (66  M.)  Centralia.  — Olympia  {Olympia^  from  $2),  the  capital  of 
the  State  of  Washington,  is  finely  situated  at  the  head  of  Puget  Sound, 
in  the  midst  of  a thickly  wooded  district.  Pop.  (1900)  3863.  It  carries 
on  a trade  in  agricultural  produce,  fruit,  wool,  and  timber. 

The  Pacific  Division  of  the  Nortliern  Pacific  Railway  runs  to  the 
S.  from  Tacoma  to  Portland.  Fine  views  of  Mt.  Rainier  or  Tacoma 
(40  M.  distant)  are  obtained  to  the  left,  through  breaks  in  the  forest. 
1916  M.  Lake  Fieu;(325  ft.)  is  the  point  of  divergence  of  the  above- 
mentioned  line  to  Olympia.  1941  M.  Tenino  (3 15  ft.),  the  junction 
of  another  line  to  Olympia.  1958  M.  Centralia  (205  ft. ; 1947  inhab. ; 
see  above)  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  Gray  s Harbor.,  on  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  1962  M.  Chehalis,  the  junction  of  a line  to  South  Bend,  on 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  Farther  on  we  descend  along  the  Cowlitz,  and 
glimpses  of  Mt.  Adams  (p.  476)  are  obtained  to  the  left. 

At  (2012  M.)  Kalama  (33  ft.)  the  train  is  transferred  across  the 
wide  Columbia  River  by  a large  steamer.  2017  M.  Goble,  the  junc- 
tion of  a line  down  the  Columbia  river  to  Astoria.  Beyond  (2029  M.) 
Warren  we  skirt  the  Willamette  (p.  584).  In  clear  weather  views 
are  had  of  Mt.  St.  Helens  (9750  ft. ; to  the  N.E .),  Mt.  Hood  (1 1 ,225  ft.), 
and  Mt.  Jefferson  (10;567  ft.  5 to  the  S.E.,  more  distant).  The  first 
of  these  was  in  eruption  in  1898,  emitting  volumes  of  black  smoke. 
2053  M.  Portland,  see  p.  584, 


Gai’dint 


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479 


84.  The  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

The  * -Yellowstone  National  Park,  which,  by  Act  of  Congress  on  March 
1st,  1872,  was  set  apart  as  a public  park  or  pleasure-ground  ‘for  the  bene- 
fit and  enjoyment  of  the  people’,  consists  of  a tract  62  M.  long  from  N 
to  S.  and  54  M.  wide  from  E.  to  W.,  with  an  area  of  3348  sq.  M.  To  the 
S.,  E.,  & N.  of  it  lies  the  Yellowstone  Forest  Reserve  of  13,070  sq.  M.,  and  to 
the  W.  is  the  Madison  Reserve  of  1270  sq.  M.,  both  belonging  to  the  Federal 
Grovernment  but  neither  under  control  of  the  Park  officials.  The  great  bulk 
of  the  Park  lies  in  Wyoming^  but  small  portions  of  it  are  in  Montana  (N.) 
and  Idaho  (W.).  The  central  portion  of  the  Park  consists  of  a broad  vol- 
canic plateau,  with  an  average  elevation  of  8000  ft.  above  sea-level.  Sur- 
rounding this  on  all  sides  are  mountains  with  peaks  and  ridges  rising 
2000-4000  ft.  above  the  general  level.  To  the  S.  are  the  grand  Teton  and 
Wind  River  Ranges;  to  the  E.  the  Ahsaroka  Mts.  To  the  N.E.  a confused 
mass  of  mountains  unites  the  Absarokas  with  the  Snowy  Range  which 
shuts  in  the  Park  on  the  N.  The  beautiful  Gallatin  Range^  on  the’  N.  and 
N.W.,  lies  partly  within  the  national  reservation.  The  whole  district 
has  been  the  scene  of  remarkable  volcanic  activity  at  a comparatively  late 
geological  epoch  ^ and  the  traces  of  this  activity,  in  the  form  of  geysers 
boiling  springs,  terrace  and  crater  formations,  cliffs  of  obsidian,  deeply- 
cleft  canons,  petrified  trees,  sulphur  hills,  and  the  like,  are  of  the  strangest 
and  most  startling  description  (see  below).  Its  geysers  are  the  largest  in 
the  world,  excelling  those  of  New  Zealand  or  Iceland.  Its  lakes  and  water- 
falls are  also  fine,  and  the  marvellously  coloured  Canon  of  the  Yellow- 
stone (p.  489)  perhaps  outstrips  even  the  geysers  as  an  attraction.  A great 
part  of  the  ground  is  covered  with  dense  forests  of  lodge-pole  pine  and 
Douglas  spruce.  The  Park  has  become  a huge  game-preserve,  and  large  num- 
bers  of  wild  animals,  including  the  last  free  herd  of  buffaloes  in  America, 
elk,  deer,  bears,  big-horn  sheep,  etc.,  are  sheltered  in  its  recesses.  These 
free  wild  animals  are  a notable  attraction  to  the  tourist.  No  shooting 
IS  allowed  within  the  Park  precincts  j but  fishing  is  freely  allowed,  and 
excellent  sport  (chiefly  trout  and  grayling)  may  be  obtained  in  the  Yellow- 
stone River,  the  Yellowstone  Lake,  and  in  nearly  all  the  streams.  The  bota 
nist  will  find  much  to  interest  him  in  the  flora  of  the  district,  and  it  need 
scarcely  be  said  that  it  is  a peculiarly  happy  hunting-ground  for  the 
geologist.^  — The  Park  is  under  the  exclusive  control  of  the  Secretary  of 
the  Interior,  except  in  regard  to  improvement  work,  which  falls  to  the 
Secretary  of  War.  Troops  of  U.  S.  cavalry  are  stationed  at  many  points 
to  protect  the  natural  curiosities.  The  rules  of  the  Park  may  be  seen  at 
the  hotels,  and  any  infringement  of  them  is  severely  dealt  with.  — This 
known  to  the  public  by  the  Washburn  Expedition 
ot  lo7U , but  the  fur-traders,  trappers,  and  hunters  had  brought  home 
Ules  of  its  wonders  as  far  back  as  1830.  Since  1870  the  U.  S.  Government 
scientific  topographical  and  geological  expeditions  into 
the  Yellowstone,  which  has  now  been  pretty  thoroughly  explored  and 
mapped  (comp.  p.  481).  b j y 

Geology  of  the  Yellowstone  Park  (by  Arnold  Hague,  U.S.  Geological 
Survey).  Geological  evidence  shows  that  the  processes  of  mountain  building 
were  contemporaneous  in  all  these  ranges  and  took  place  near  the  close 
of  Cretaceous  time.  By  the  upheaval  of  the  mountains  a depressed  basin 
was  formed,  everywhere  shut  in  by  high  land.  Later,  the  pouring  out 
of  vast  masses  of  lavas  converted  this  depressed  region  into  the  Park 
plateau.  Tertiary  time  was  marked  by  great  volcanic  activity,  lavas  be- 
mg  piled  up  until  the  accumulated  mass  measured  more  than  2000  ft 
centres  of  volcanic  eruptions,  Mt.  Washburn 
and  Mt.  Sheridan,  are  known  within  this  area.  The  plateau  built  up 
of  these  lavas  embraces  an  area  of  50  by  40  M.,  the  volcanic  flows  resting 
against  the  steep  spurs  of  ^ the  encircling  mountains.  Strictly  speaking  it 
IS  not  a plateau 5 at  least  it  is  by  no  means  a level  region,  but  presents 
an  undulating  country  characterized  by  bold  escarpments  and  abrupt  edges 
0 mesa-like  ridges.  It  is  accidented  by  shallow  basins  of  varied  outline 


480  Route  84.  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 


Geology. 


and  scored  by  deep  canons  and  gorges.  Evidences  of  fresh  lava  flows 
within  recent  times  are  wholly  wanting^  nevertheless,  over  the  Park 
plateau  the  most  unmistakable  evidence  of  underground  heat  is  every- 
where to  be  seen  in  the  w'aters  of  innumerable  hot  springs,  geysers, 
and  solfataras.  A careful  study  of  all  the  phenomena  leads  to  the  theory 
that  the  cause  of  the  high  temperatures  of  these  waters  is  to  be  found  in  the 
heated  rocks  below  and  that  the  origin  of  the  heat  is  in  some  way  as- 
sociated with  the  source  of  volcanic  energy.  Surface  waters,  in  percolat* 
ing  downward,  have  become  heated  by  relatively  small  quantities  of  steam 
rising  through  fissures  in  the  rocks  from  much  greater  depths.  Geysers 
and  hot  springs  return  these  meteoric  waters  to  the  surface.  They  are 
in  a sense  volcanic  phenomena  and  remain  as  evidence  of  the  gradual 
dying  out  of  volcanic  energy.  If  this  theory  is  correct,  proof  of  the  long 
continued  action  of  thermal  waters  upon  the  rocks  should  be  apparent, 
as  they  must  have  been  active  forces  ever  since  the  cessation  of  volcanic 
eruptions.  Ascending  currents  of  steam  and  acid  waters  have  acted  as 
powerful  agents  in  rock  decomposition  and  have  left  an  ineffaceable  im- 
pression upon  the  surface  of  the  country.  This  is  shown  by  numerous 
areas  of  altered  lavas  and  extinct  solfataras.  No  finer  example  of  the 
action  of  steam  upon  lavas  can  be  seen  than  along  the  walls  of  the  Yellow- 
stone Canon.  To-day  the  greatest  activity  is  found  in  the  geyser  basins. 
The  number  of  hot  springs  in  the  Park  exceeds  4009.  If  to  these  be 
added  the  fissures  and  fumaroles  from  which  issue  large  volumes  of  steam 
and  acid  vapours,  the  number  of  active  vents  would  be  greatly  increased. 
There  are  about  100  geysers  in  the  Park.  Between  a geyser  and  a hot 
spring  no  sharp  line  can  be  drawn,  although  a geyser  may  be  defined  as 
a hot  spring  throwing  with  intermittent  action  a column  of  hot  water  and 
steam  into  the  air.  A hot  sp  ing  may  boil  incessantly  without  violent 
eruptive  energy^  a geyser  may  lie  dormant  for  years  without  explosive 
action  and  again  break  forth  with  renewed  force.  ^ ♦ 

Bunsen’s  theory  of  geyser  action,  which  he  announced  alter  investigat- 
ing the  geysers  of  Iceland,  is  undoubtedly  correct  in  its  essential  principles, 
and  has  stood  the  test  of  careful  study  of  the  varied  hydro-thermal  phen- 
omena in  the  Yellowstone  Park,  where  they  occur  on  so  grand  a scale.  In 
the  latter  locality  it  may  be  shown  that  it  is  not  necessary  that  the  geyser 
conduit  should  be  vertical  or  even  straight.  Bunsen’s  theory  rests  on  the 
well-known  principle  that  the  boiling  point  of  water  increases  with  pres- 
sure and  consequently  the  boiling  point  at  the  bottom  of  a long  tube  is 
much  higher  than  at  the  top.  When  heat  is  applied  to  the  bottom  ot  a 
deep  reservoir,  explosive  action  is  likely  to  follov/,  and  in  the  case  of  a 
geyser  the  expansive  force  of  steam  which  is  generated  drives  out  vio- 
lently the  water  in  the  tube  which  leads  to  the  surface.  i,  j 

The  thermal  waters  of  the  Park  may  be  classed  under  three  heads: 
1st,  calcareous  waters  carrying  calcium  carbonate  in  solution ; 2nd,  sili- 
cious  waters  carrying  free  acid  in  solution^  3rd  silicious  alkaline  wat^s 
rich  in  silica.  Calcareous  waters  are  confined  almost  exclusively  to  the 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  which  lie  just  to  the  N.  of  the  Park  plateau. 
Although  the  waters  break  out  in  close  proximity  to  the  lavas , and  un- 
doubtedly receive  their  heat  from  volcanic  sources,  they  reach  the  surface 
through  limestones.  With  a few  exceptions  silicious  waters  are  found 
issuing  from  the  lavas  from  which  they  derive  their  mineral  contents. 
Acid  waters  may  be  recognized  by  efflorescent  deposits  of  alum  and  soluble 
salts  of  iron,  and  frequently  by  the  presence  of  delicate  sulphur  crystals. 
Alkaline  springs  present  more  of  general  interest  than  acid  waters,  as 
it  is  only  in  connection  with  the  former  that  geysers  occur.  They  are 
the  principal  waters  of  all  the  geyser  basins  and  most  hot^  spring  areas. 
They  deposit  mainly  an  amorphous  silicious  sinter,  but  in  an  endless 
variety  of  forms,  as  is  shown  in  the  geyser  [cones  and  incrustations  on 
the  surface  and  edges  of  hot  pools.  , , 

It  is  these  unrivalled  hydro-thermal  manifestations  and  their  varied 
phenomena  that  have  made  the  Yellowstone  Park  famous  throughout  the 
world,  and  gained  for  it  the  distinction  of  America’s  Wonder^nd. 

Approaches  and  Plans  of  Tour.  The  season  for  visitin  the  Yellowstone 


Routes^ 


YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 


84.  Route.  481 


Park  lasts  from  June  15th  to  Sept.  15th,  and  June  and  September  are  less 
crowded  than  July  and  August.  The  principal  approach  is  via  Living- 
ston on  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  (see  p.  473  and  R.  83).  The  charge 
for  round  trip  ticket  from  Livingston,  including  railway  between  Livingston 
and  Gardiner  (each  way),  stage  fares  for  the  regular  tour  in  the  Park, 
and  board  and  lodging  at  the  Park  hotels  (for  51/2  days)  is  $49.50  (from 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs  $ 44.50).  A return-ticket  from  St.  Paul,  Minneapolis, 
or  Duluth  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  costs  $56.90,  and  includes  only  rail- 
way and  stage  fares.  The  roads  throughout  the  Park  are  kept  up  by  the 
U.S.  Government  at  great  expense,  and  they  are  regularly  watered  to  keep 
the  dust  down  as  far  as  possible.  Some  of  the  drives,  however,  are  rather 
tedious,  as  the  regular  coaches  make  only  5 M.  an  hour  on  an  average, 
and  lighter  vehicles  8 M.  The  transportation  from  Gardiner  is  in  the 
hands  of  the  Yellowstone  Park  Transportation  Company.,  whose  coaches  are 
roomy  and  strong.  Tourists  of  simple  tastes  may  put  themselves  in  the 
hands  of  the  Wylie  Permanent  Gamp  Go.  (Gardiner,  Montana),  which  has 
erected  comfortable  camps  (tents)  in  different  parts  of  the  Park,  and 
charges  $38.30  for  the  round  trip  from  Livingston,  including  six  days' 
board  (two  nights  spent  at  the  Upper  Basin).  Each  additional  day  costs 
$2.50,  and  this  is  the  charge  for  cyclists  and  those  tourists  who  have  their 
own  vehicles.  Carriages  may  be  hired  at  $ 10-21  per  day  (3-7  pers.)  i saddle 
horses  $2V2  per  day.  The  Raymond  & Whitcomb  Co.  (p.  xxvi)  conducts 
parties  from  the  larger  towns  to  the  Yellowstone  at  rates  proportional  to  those 
above  mentioned,  while  similar  parties  are  brought  by  the  Pennsylvania 
R.  R.  from  New  York  and  by  the  Burlington  Route  from  Chicago.  Camping- 
parties  may  secure  a complete  outfit,  guides,  etc.,  at  the  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  Hotel  (p.  482).  — The  Yellowstone  may  also  be  approached  on 
the  W.  from  Monida.,  on  the  Oregon  Short  Line  R.  R.  (p.  503),  whence 
the  Park  (85  M.)  is  reached  in  about  27  hrs.  by  the  coaches  of  the  Monida  d' 
Yellowstone  Co.,  which  also  make  the  regulation  above  mentioned  (fare  about 
the  same  as  from  Gardiner).  Arrangements  have  also  been  made  by  which 
the  tourist  may  enter  the  Park  from  Gardiner  and  quit  it  by  Monida  (and 
vice  versa).  The  charge  for  a return-ticket  from  Omaha  (p.  492)  or  Kansas 
City  (p.  507),  including  the  trip  through  the  Park  from  Monida,  is  about 
$120,  from  Portland  (Ore.)  $85.  — From  the  E.  the  Yellowstone  Park  niay 
be  reached  from  Gody  (p.  496),  the  nearest  railway- station  in  this  direction 
(about  95  M.  from  the  Lake  Outlet,  near  the  Lake  Hotel,  p.  488).  — Warm 
Wraps  are  necessary  in  the  Yellowstone,  as,  however  strong  the  sun  is  by 
day,  the  nights  are  apt  to  be  very  chilly. 

Hotels.  The  hotels  of  the  Yellowstone  Park  Association  (headquarters 
at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs)  are  comfortable  and  well  managed.  The  uniform 
charge  is  $4  a day  for  the  first  week,  then  $3.  The  Association  also 
owns  lunch-stations  at  Norris  and  at  the  Thumb  of  Yellowstone  Lake. 

Guides.  Men  to  point  out  the  way  to  the  various  points  of  interest 
may  be  obtained  at  the  hotels  for  a moderate  fee^  but  really  intelligent 
and  efficient  guides  are  still  a desideratum.  Mounted  guide,  for  longer  ex- 
cursions, $ 5 per  day. 

Bibliography.  The  most  detailed  account  of  the  Yellowstone  is  that  of 
Prof.  F.V.  Hayden  and  his  colleagues  in  the  Twelfth  Annual  U.  S.  Geological 
Report  (1878),  but  the  M^ork  likely  to  be  of  most  use  to  the  tourist  is  Hiram 
M.  Chittenden"' s ‘Yellowstone  National  Park'  (new  ed.,  1903  •,  $1.50).  See 
also  Arnold  Hague^s  ‘Geological  History  of  the  Yellowstone  Park’  (1887). 
Small  Guides  to  the  Yellowstone  Park.,  by  A.  B.  Guptill  (50  c.)  and  W.  C.  Riley 
(25  c.),  may  be  bought  at  the  hotels.  The  little  book  called  ‘Wonder- 
land’, published  by  the  Northern  PaciOc  Railway,  is  revised  annually 
and  may  be  commended  (6  c.).  Good  Photographs.,  by  F.  Jay  Haynes,  are 
also  on  sale. 


Baedekkk's  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


31 


482  Route  86,  YELLOWSTONE  PARK.  Mammoth  Springs. 

a.  From  Livingston  to  Mammotli  Hot  Springs. 

Nokthern  Pacific  Railway  to  (54  M.)  Oardiner  in  21/2  hrs.  Stage 
thence  to  (5  M.)  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  in  1 hr. 

Livingston^  see  p.  473.  — The  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the 
Yellowstone  and  soon  passes  through  (3  M.)  the  * First  Canon  of 
the  Yellowstone  or  Gate  of  the  Mts.^  a gorge  about  1 M.  long,  with 
rocky  walls  2000  ft.  high.  The  wider  reach  then  entered  is  known 
as  Paradise  Valley.  31  M.  Dailey  s (4915  ft.).  To  the  left  is  Emi- 
grant Peak  (10,960  ft.),  at  the  head  of  Paradise  Yalley.  Near  (41  M.) 
Sphinx  (5070  ft.)  we  thread  the  fine  '^Middle  or  Yankee  Jim  Canon. 

‘a  gigantic  and  perfect  piece  of  ice-work,  with  rocky  sides  smoothly 
polished  and  striated  from  the  bottom  to  the  top’  (Oeikie).  As  we 
approach  the  end  of  the  railway,  we  see  Cinnabar  Mt.  to  the  right, 
with  the  curious  *DevWs  Slide^  consisting  of  two  dykes  of  hard  sand- 
stone, 30  ft.  apart,  ascending  the  mountain  for  about  2000  ft. 

54  M.  Gardiner  (5400  ft.;  Hotels;  Wylie  Dining  Station^  comp. 
p.481),  the  terminus  of  the  railway  and  the  beginning  of  the  stage- 
line, lies  at  the  confluence  of  the  Yellowstone  and  the  Oardiner  River ^ 
where  it  enters  the  Yellowstone  Park.  Opposite  the  tasteful  rustic  rai  L- 
way  station  is  a massive  arch  of  rough  basalt,  50  ft.  high,  with  a tablet 
bearing  the  words:  ‘For  the  benefit  and  enjoyment  of  the  People’. 
This  is  the  entrance-gate  to  the  Park.  Beyond  it  the  road  ascends  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Gardiner  and  after  3 M.  crosses  from  Montana 
to  Wyoming  (p.  497).  Between  Gardiner  and  Mammoth  Hot  Springs 
the  road  ascends  800  ft.,  by  a continuous  and  easy  grade. 

5 M.  ^Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Hotel  (6215  ft.;  300  beds,  incl. 
annex ; baths  with  water  from  Hot  Springs)  is  finely  situated  on  a 
plateau  about  800  ft.  above  the  Gardiner,  with  Mt.  Everts  (7900  ft.) 
rising  to  the  E.  (beyond  the  river)  and  Terrace  Mt.  (8100  ft.)  and 
Bunsen  Peak  (9100  ft.)  to  the  S.  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  is  the 
business  and  administrative  centre  of  the  Park,  including  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Superintendent,  of  the  otiicers  in  charge  of  the 
improvement  works  and  weather  observations,  and  of  the  hotel  and 
transportation  companies.  Adjacent  is  Fort  Yellowstone.,  the  military 
headquarters  of  the  park. 

This  is  the  starting-point  and  the  terminus  of  the  circular  tour  round  the 
Park,  which  may  be  made  in  either  direction,  though  that  followed  below 
is  preferable,  as  reserving  the  fine  Yellowstone  Canon  to  the  last.  Trunks 
and  other  heavy  luggage  are  left  here.  The  drive  through  the  Park  is 
made  in  light  vehicles  holding  3-7  people,  and  the  same  carriage  is  retained 
throughout  by  those  who  perform  the  circuit  within  the  usual  time  (51/2 
days:,  fee  to  driver  customary). 

The  Yellowstone  Park  Association'' s Guide  conducts  hotel  guests  over  the 
Terraces  free  of  charge,  starting  about  2 p.m.  It  is,  however,  prefer- 
able to  visit  the  Terraces,  if  possible,  in  the  morning  or  late  evening,  since 
the  heat  reflected  from  the  glaring  white  formations  is  very  trying.  A 
guide  is  not  indispensable,  as  the  hotel  is  scarcely  lost  sight  of.  Smoked 
glasses  are  a desirable  protection  to  the  eyes. 

Opposite  the  hotel,  on  the  slope  of  Terrace  Mt.,  are  the  wonder- 
ful ^Formations  or  Terraces  formed  by  the  calcareous  deposits  of  j 


Obsidian  Cliff.  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 


84.  Route  483 


the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs.  These  deposits  cover  an  area  of  nearly 
200  acres,  comprising  10-12  distinct  terraces  and  70  active  springs, 
with  a temperature  varying  from  65®  to  165®rahr.  The  main  springs 
now  active  lie  just  above  the  Terraces,  the  total  height  of  which  is 
about  200  ft.  The  exquisite  colouring  of  the  formations  (white, 
cream,  salmon,  red,  brown,  yellow,  green,  etc.),  the  singularly  blue 
transparency  of  the  water,  and  the  striking  arrangement  of  the 
terraces  combine  to  form  a scene  that  has  no  rival  since  the  de- 
struction of  the  famous  Pink  Terraces  of  New  Zealand  (18(S6). 

The  first  objects  to  attract  the  visitor’s  attention  on  leaving  the  hotel 
are  the  cones  of  two  extinct  geysers,  named  Liberty  Cap  (38  ft.  high)  and 
the  Gianfs  Thumb.  The  path  usually  followed  in  visiting  the  Formations 
diverges  from  the  main  road  about  200  yds.  to  the  S.  of  the  former  j tlie 
path  near  the  Giant’s  Thumb  is  generally  taken  in  returning.  Among  the 
chief  points  of  interest  are  the  Minerva  Terrace.^  the  Jupiter  Terrace.,  the 
Pulpit  Terrace.,  the  Cleopatra  Terrace  and  Pools.,  the  Narrow  Gauge  Terrace., 
the  Orange  Geyser  (a  hot  spring,  not  a geyser  proper),  Cupid's  Cave,  and 
the  Devil's  Kitchen.  — About  1 M.  to  the  S.  of  the  hotel,  on  the  old  coach 
road,  is  a corral  of  buffaloes. 

Those  who  stay  more  than  a day  at  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  may 
make  several  excursions,  hy  carriage  or  in  the  saddle.  The  drive  around 
Bunsen  Peak  is  of  special  interest,  going  by  "^Middle  Gardiner  Falls  (150  ft. 
high),  in  a canon  500  ft.  deep.  This  trip  may  he  combined  with  the  ascent  of 
Bunsen  Peak  (half-a-day^  ‘^‘View).  Sepulchre  Mt.  (9500  ft.)  and  Electric 
Peak  (see  below)  may  also  be  ascended  on  horseback.  An  ascent  ei  Mt. 
Everts  (p.  482),  including  a visit  to  the  East  Gardiner  or  Undine  Falls, 
takes  about  a day. 


b.  From  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin. 

40  M,  Stage  in  about  lOhrs.,  including  2 hrs.  at  Korris. 

Tbe  road  ascends  gradually  to  the  S.  up  the  N.  slope  of  Terrace 
Mt.  to  (31/2  M.)  tbe  '^Golden  Gate,  where  the  W.  branch  of  the 
Gardiner  passes  between  Bunsen  Peak  and  Terrace  Mt.  The  name 
is  said  to  be  derived  from  the  yellow  moss  which  grows  on  the 
rocky  walls  of  the  pass.  The  Rustic  Falls  here  are  picturesque. 
Fine  retrospect.  On  issuing  from  the  canon,  by  a concrete  viaduct 
of  eleven  arches,  which  carries  the  road  for  225  ft.  along  the  face  of 
the  cliff,  we  pass  a strange  formation  of  white  travertine  rocks  locally 
known  as  the  Hoodoos,  and  reach  Swan  Lake  Flat.  To  the  right  rise 
the  Snow-peaks  of  the  Gallatin  Range,  including  (from  right  to  left) 
Quadrant  Mt.  (10,125  ft.).  Bannock  Peak  (10,330  ft.),  and  Mt. 
Holmes  (10,528  ft.).  Behind  us,  to  the  N.W. , is  Electric  Peak 
(11,155  ft.),  the  highest  mountain  in  the  Park.  About  2 M.  beyond 
Swan  Lake  we  cross  the  middle  fork  of  the  Gardiner.  Farther  on, 
6M.  from  the  Golden  Gate,  are  Willow  Park  and  Apollinaris  Spring, 
with  the  first  Wylie  Camp  (p.  481).  To  the  left,  IY2  M.  farther  on, 
rises  the  ^Obsidian  Cliff,  a ridge  of  volcanic  glass , 300  yds.  long 
and  150-250  ft.  high,  once  a favourite  resort  of  the  Indians,  who 
made  arrow-heads  of  the  obsidian.  In  the  construction  of  the  road 
the  large  blocks  of  obsidian  were  shattered  by  being  first  heated  by 
fires  and  then  douched  with  cold  water.  To  the  right  lies  Beaver 

31* 


484  Route  84.  YELLOWSTONE  PARK.  Fountain  Geyser. 


Lake  (7415  ft.),  so  called  from  the  ancient  heavers’  dams,  now  over- 
grown with  vegetation.  The  road  skirts  the  lake  for  about  1 M., 
crosses  the  Green  Creek.,  and  then  surmounts  the  watershed  (7550  ft. ) 


between  the  Gardiner,  flowing  into  the  Yellowstone,  and  the 
Gibbon,  flowing  into  the  Madison.  We  pass  Roaring  ML  (1.),  the 
little  Twin  Lakes  (r.),  and  the  DeviVs  Frying  Pan  (r.). 

20  M.  (from  Mammoth  Hot  Springs)  is  the  small  Norris  Hotel 
(7527  ft.),  where  a halt  is  made  for  luncheon.  It  lies  in  the  Norris 
Geyser  Basin,  which,  though  not  to  be  compared  with  the  larger  i 
basins  described  at  pp.  485,  486,  contains  features  of  considerable 
interest.  Some  of  its  active  geysers  are  of  quite  recent  origin.  Most 
visitors  will  see  as  much  as  they  wish  of  this  basin  by  walking  on 
about  1 M.  ahead  of  their  carriage.  In  this  way  they  may  see  a boiling 
spring  to  the  left  of  the  road-  the  Black  Growler,  to  the  right;  the 
Hurricane,  a short  way  to  the  right  (sign-post) ; and  the  Constant 
Geyser,  in  a large  tract  of  geyserite  which  is  unsafe  for  walking. 

A path  diverging  to  the  left  leads  to  the  Emerald  Pool,  the  New  Crater., 
and  the  (V2  M.)  Monarch  Geyser.  — Numerous  other  small  geysers  and 
boiling  springs  are  visible  in  various  directions. 

From  Norris  Hotel  to  the  Grand  Canon  Hotel,  12  M.  This  road, 
formerly  used  as  part  of  the  regular  circuit-route  in  returning  to  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs,  ascends  along  the  Gibbon  River.  Near  the  (3  M.)  -'Virginia 
Cascades  it  is  carried  along  the  face  of  the  cliff  by  a clever  hit  of  engineering. 
About  3 M.  farther  on  are  the  Wedded  Trees,  two  pines  connected  by  a 
branch  growing  between  them.  — 12  M.  Canon  Hotel,  see  p.  489. 

From  Norris  Basin  the  road  follows  the  course  of  the  Gibbon  River, 
which  forms  here  a series  of  rapids  a mile  long,  and  about  3Y2  M- 
from  Norris  Hotel  it  enters  a valley  named  Gibbon  Meadows,  beyond 


which  we  descend  the  *Gibbon  Canon. 

About  V2  N.  to  the  E.  (left)  of  the  entrance  to  the  canon  are  the 
Artists'  Paint  Pots,  similar  to  those  described  at  p.  485.  — A path  to  the 
right,  3/4  M.  farther  on,  leads  to  the  Monument  Geyser  Basin,  1000  ft.  above 
the  road,  which  may  be  neglected  by  the  non-scientific  tourist. 


About  2 M.  beyond  the  entrance  of  the  canon,  to  the  right,  is 
* Beryl  Spring,  one  of  the  loveliest  boiling  springs  in  the  Park  (15  ft. 
across).  Near  the  end  of  the  canon,  to  the  left,  3 M.  farther  on, 
are  the  *Gibbon  Falls,  80  ft.  high.  About  II/2  M.  beyond  Gibbon 
Falls  is  a Wylie  Lunch  Station,  at  the  point  of  junction  of  our  road 
with  the  N.  branch  of  the  Monida  Road,  the  W.  approach  (see  p.  503). 
Farther  on  we  descend  gradually,  across  a somewhat  uninteresting 
tract,  to  the  valley  of  the  Firehole  River,  reaching  it  at  (41/2^1-) 
point  where  our  road  is  joined  by  the  S.  branch  of  the  Monida  road. 
The  next  part  of  our  road,  ascending  along  the  Firehole  River,  is 
more  interesting.  In  31/2  reach  its  junction  with  Nez  Perce 

Creek,  so  named  from  the  campaign  of  1877,  waged  by  General 
Howard  against  Chief  Joseph  of  that  tribe.  About  2 M.  farther  on, 
beyond  a flat  plain,  we  come  to  — 

40  M.  ^Fountain  Hotel  (7250  ft.),  the  usual  halting-place  for  the 
first  night  after  leaving  Mammoth  Springs.  Hot  mineral  baths  may 


be  obtained  at  the  hotel. 


Lower  Oeysers.  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 


84.  Route.  485 


Every  evening,  at  a point  about  100  yds.  behind  the  hotel,  a group 
of  bears  may  be  seen  eating  the  kitchen  garbage  of  the  day.  They  are 
so  tame  and  inoffensive  that,  it  is  said,  they  would  eat  apples  from  the 
hands  of  the  onlookers,  if  the  Park  rules  allowed  such  feeding.  A similar 
sight  may  be  witnessed  at  all  the  hotels  in  the  Park  except  that  at 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs. 

The  *Lower  Geyser  Basin,  which  we  have  now  reached , has  an 
area  of  12-13  sq.  M.  and  a mean  elevation  of  about  7250  ft.  It  is 
known  to  contain  about  700  hot  springs,  besides  a score  or  so  of 
geysers,  arranged  in  groups.  Within  a few  hundred  yards  of  the 
hotel  is  the . ^Fountain  Geyser,  which  spouts  every  2-3  hrs. 
Though  not  very  high  (30-50  ft.),  the  eruption  of  this  geyser  is  so 
wide,  has  so  many  interlacing  jets  shooting  in  all  directions,  and 
rises  and  falls  with  so  many  variations,  that  it  ranks  among  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  Park.  The  approach  of  an  eruption,  which  lasts  15- 
20  min.,  is  heralded  by  the  gradual  filling  up  of  the  crater.  — Near 
the  Fountain  Geyser  are  the  very  singular  and  curiously  fascinating 
^Mammoth.  Paint  Pots,  or  Mud  Buffs ^ a group  of  mud  springs  of 
different  colours  (pink,  yellow,  etc.),  within  a crater  about  40  ft.  in 
diameter.  The  mud  is  thrown  up  with  a curious  ‘plopping’  sound 
and  falls  back  into  shapes  resembling  flowers,  etc. 

About  11/2  from  the  hotel,  somewhat  difficult  of  access  on  foot 
owing  to  the  marshy  nature  of  the  ground,  but  easily  reached  by 
tourist  wagon  at  small  charge  (see  p.  486),  is  the  *Great  Fountain 
Geyser,  which  rises  to  a height  of  100-150  ft.  and  is  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  geysers  in  the  Park.  Adjacent  are  many  of  the  most 
interesting  springs,  to  be  found  in  the  Park , notably  Firehole^  Sur~ 
prise j and  Mushroom. 


c.  From  the  Lower  Geyser  Basin  to  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin. 

9 M.  Stage  Coach  in  3-4  hrs  , including  halt  at  the  Midway  Geyser 
Basin  (see  below). 

The  road,  which  runs  at  first  across  a flat  geyserite  plain  and  then 
through  a rolling  country,  reaches  the  Firehole  River  exactly  opposite 
the  Excelsior  Geyser.^  in  the  Midway  Geyser  Basin^  on  the  W.  bank 
of  the  river,  where  a halt  of  an  hour  or  so  is  made. 

This  group  includes  the  great  "Excelsior  Geyser,  the  largest  geyser  in 
the  world,  throwing  up  nearly  as  much  water  as  all  the  rest  put  together. 
With  a short  interval  in  1890,  it  has  not  worked  since  1888,  when  it 
threw  a huge  mass  of  water  to  a height  of  200-300  ft.  Its  crater  is  nearly 
4(X)  ft.  long  and  200-250  ft.  wide,  and  its  walls  rise  15-20  ft.  above  the  level 
of  the  boiling  water  within.  Its  appearance  amply  justifies  the  name  of 
HeWs  Half  Acre,  which  is  sometimes  applied  to  it.  — A little  to  the  N. 
is  the  beautiful  ^Turquoise  Spring,  a pool  100  ft.  in  diameter,  remarkable 
for  the  intense  blueness  of  its  limpid  water.  — To  the  W.  lies  "Prismatic 
Lake  (400  ft.  long  and  250  ft.  wide),  the  marvellous  colouring  of  which  is 
indicated  by  its  name.  The  volumes  of  steam  which  rise  from  it  reflect 
those  colours  in  a very  beautiful  way. 

About  3 M.  beyond  tbe  Middle  Geyser  Basin  we  reach  the  begin- 
ning of  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  (see  p.  486),  which  the  road  to  the 
hotel  traverses,  following  the  course  of  the  Firehole  River.  Among 


486  Route  84.  YELLOWSTONE  PARK.  Old  Faithful. 

the  springs  and  geysers  near  tlie  road  as  we  proceed  are  the  Artemisia 
Spring  (right),  the  * Morning  Glory  (i.e.  convolvulus;  left),  the  Fan 
Geyser  (r.),  and  the  Mortar  Geyser  (r.).  Beyond  the  bridge  are  the 
Riverside  (1.),  the  Grotto  (1.),  the  Giant  (1.),  the  Splendid  (r.),  the 
Comet  (r.),  the  White  Pyramid  (r. ; at  some  distance),  the  Oblong  (1.), 
the  Turban  (1.),  the  Grand  (1.),  the  Saw  Mill  (1.,  these  three  beyond 
the  river),  and  the  Castle  (1.). 

The  "^Tipper  Geyser  Hotel  or  Old  Faithful  Inn  is  at  present  the 
best  in  the  Park. 

The  '^’^Upper  Geyser  Basin  (7300  ft.),  which  is  about  4 sq.  M.  in 
area,  contains  about  40  geysers  (including  the  largest,  after  Excel- 
sior, and  finest  in  the  Park)  and  many  beautiful  hot  springs.  Most 
of  the  large  springs  and  geysers  are  near  the  Firehole  River.  A good 
general  view  of  the  district  is  obtained  from  a mound  near  the  hotel. 

Tlie  chief  points  of  interest  in  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  may  be  seen 
in  two  rounds  of  about  3 M. , one  on  either  side  of  the  river,  and  about 
half-a-day  should  be  allowed  for  each.  Those  who  do  not  wish  to  walk 
can  make  these  trips  in  less  time  and  with  less  fatigue  in  the  ‘tourist 
wagons',  which  are  provided  here,  and  at  the  other  principal  hotels,  for 
a trifling  charge.  Hurried  visitors  who  go  on  foot  will  do  well  to  engage  a 
guide;  in  any  case  they  should  ascertain  what  geysers  are  ‘due’  and  arrange 
their  itinerary  accordingly.  A table  at  the  hotel  gives  the  periodic  times  of 
the  different  geysers,  but  few  of  them,  with  the  exception  of  Old  Faithful, 
can  be  trusted.  Those  who  wish  to  see  all  the  large  geysers  playing  have  to 
stay  several  days  or  even  weeks ; while  some  geysers  intermit  their  eruptions 
for  months  and  years  at  a time.  Most  of  the  chief  geysers  are  marked  by 
little  wooden  signs.  Thick  shoes  or  overshoes  are  desirable,  as  parts  of 
the  formations  are  almost  constantly  wet  from  the  overflow  of  the  geysers. 

"Old  Faithful,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  geysers  in  the  Park,  throws 
its  stream,  at  intervals  of  about  65  minutes,  to  a height  of  125-150  ft.  The 
eruption  lasts  about  41/2  minutes.  — Crossing  the  foot-bridge  in  front  of 
the  hotel,  we  reach  the  "Beehive,  so  called  from  the  appearance  of  its 
cone  (4  ft.  high),  which  throws  a very  compact  stream  of  water  from  its 
nozzle-like  opening  to  a height  of  150-200  ft.  To  the  E.  of  the  Beehive  is 
the  "Giantess,  the  interesting  exhibitions  of  which  are  due  once  a fort- 
night (150  ft.).  A little  to  the  N.W.  of  the  Giantess  is  the  Sponge^  so  call- 
ed from  the  appearance  of  its  crater.  — A little  farther  to  the  N.  are 
the  Lion^  Lioness^  and  C7w6,  to  the  E.  of  which  is  the  Beach,  The  path 
next  i>asses  between  Spasmodic  (r.)  and  the  "Sawmill  (1. , near  a bridge 
over  the  Firehole)  and  reaches  the  Turhan  and  the  "Grand , the  irregular 
eruptions  of  which  last  (200  ft.  high)  are  very  fine.  Near  this  is  the  Young 
Faithful  or  Minute  Man^  a small  geyser  which  goes  off  every  5 min.  and 
lasts  for  1 minute.  Continuing  to  follow  the  path  towards  the  N.,  we  pass 
"Beauty  Spring^  cross  the  river,  pass  the  Oblong  Geyser  with  its  fine  crater 
(to  the  right,  close  to  the  river),  and  reach  (1  M.  from  the  hotel)  the 
"Uiant  Geyser,  perhaps  the  grandest  geyser  in  the  Basin,  which  plays  ir- 
regularly, throwing  its  column  to  a height  of  250  ft.  The  eruption  lasts 
for  lV2hr.  About  200  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  Giant  is  the  "Urotto,  re- 
markable for  its  curiously-shaped  cone.  We  recross  the  river  by  the 
carriage-bridge,  just  above  which,  by  the  river’s  bank,  is  the  attractive 
"Riverside  Geyser  (thrice  daily;  80  ft.).  To  the  N.,  also  adjoining  the  river, 
are  the  Mortar  and  the  Fan^  so  called  from  the  shape  of  its  display, 
which  usually  follows  that  of  Riverside.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road 
is  the  exquisite  "Morning  Glory  Spring,  a most  delicately  tinted  pool,  so 
called  from  its  resemblance  to  a convolvulus  or  morning  glory.  We  may 
now  return  to  the  hotel  (IV2  M.)  by  the  road  passing  the  "Castle,  named 
from  the  shape  of  its  crater  (every  24  hrs.  or  so;  75  ft.).  Near  the  Castle 
is  a pretty  spring  known  as  the  Castle  Well. 


Shoshone  Lake, 


YELLOWSTONE  PARK.  84.  Route.  487 


Fop  our  second  circular  walk  we  leave  the  hotel  by  a path  leading 
through  trees  to  the  N.W.,  with  Iron  Spring  Greek  a little  to  the  left. 
We  cross  this  stream  to  visit  the  beautiful  "Emerald  Pool  and  "Sunset 
Lake,  and  then  recross  it  and  follow  the  path  past  the  little  Mud  Geyser^ 
to  the  curious  Black  Sand  Basin  and  Specimen  Lake^  the  latter  a flat  and  dry 
expanse,  with  numerous  semi-petrified  trees.  A waggon-road  leads  hence 
to  the  N.  to  the  ^'DeviVs  Punch  Bowl^  about  1 M.  from  the  hotel,  and  is 
continued,  sweeping  round  to  the  E.,  to  the  main  carriage-road,  which 
it  joins  above  tbe  Oblong  G-eyser  (see  p.  486).  A digression  to  the  left  (N.) 
win  take  in  the  White  Pyramid  (the  cone  of  an  extinct  geyser),  the  "Splendid 
Geyser  (every  3 hrs.  every  alternate  day;  200  ft.),  and  the  Comet  Geyser, 

Tbe  Biscuit  Basin,,  part  of  the  Upper  Basin  about  2 M.  from  the  hotel, 
is  so  called  from  its  resemblance  to  a huge  oven  with  biscuits  baking.  It 
includes  the  "Sapphire  Pool,  the  Soda  Geyser,  the  Black  Pearl,  and  the  Sil’ 
ver  Globe. 

d.  From  Upper  Geyser  Basin  to  Yellowstone  Lake  Hotel. 

35  M.  Stage  in  9 hrs.,  including  a stoppage  for  luncheon. 

The  road  ascends  to  the  S.E.  along  the  Firehole  River  to  (1 V2  ^0 
Kepler  s Cascades,  where  the  river  comes  down  for  130  ft.  in  a series 
of  leaps.  About  2 M.  farther  on  it  bends  to  the  left  and  follows  Spring 
Creek. 

From  this  point  a side-road  leads  to  C/a  M.)  Lone  Star  Geyser,  which 
plays  every  20  minutes,  to  a height  of  30  to  50  ft.  — About  5 M.  farther 
to  the  S.,  at  the  W.  end  of  Shoshone  Lake,  is  the  Shoshone  Geyser  Basin, 
with  the  Union  and  other  interesting  geysers  and  hot  springs.  Shoshone 
Lake  (7740  ft.),  6V2  M.  long  and  1/2-I  M.  wide,  consists  of  two  expanses 
united  by  a narrow  strait.  It  is  surrounded  by  wooded  hills. 

Our  road  ascends  steadily  through  the  picturesque  Spring  Creek 
Canon,  skirting  the  stream  to  its  source  at  Craig  Pass,  on  the  (4y2  M.) 
^Continental  Divide^  or  Watershed  of  the  Hocky  Mts.  (8250  ft.).  Just 
heyondthe  pass  lies  Isa  Lake,  a small  lily-covered  sheet  of  water  on 
the  summit,  which  sends  its  waters  on  the  one  side  to  the  Atlantic, 
on  the  other  to  the  Pacifl.c  Ocean.  The  ‘Divide’  makes  a curious 
horseshoe  bend  to  the  N.  here,  but  the  road  continues  in  a straight 
direction  and  hence  still  remains  for  some  distance  on  the  Pacific 
slope.  From  Isa  Lake  we  descend  the  steep  and  winding  Corkscrew 
Hill  to  De  Lacy  Creek.  Beyond  the  Creek  we  ascend  again,  passing 
(21/2  M.)  Shoshone  Point,  which  affords  a beautiful  view  of  Shoshone 
Lake  (see  above)  and  a distant  view  of  the  historic  Teton  Mts. 
(13,690  ft.;  ascended  twice  only,  in  1872  and  1898).  We  reach  the 
second  crossing  of  the  Divide  (8350  ft.)  4^2  M.  farther  on,  near  Lost 
Lake.  The  road  then  descends,  passing  Duck  Lake,  to  (4  M.)  Yellow- 
stone Lake  (p.  488),  which  we  reach  at  the  West  Bay  or  Thumb 
(Luncheon  Station).  The  Hot  Spring  Basin  at  the  Thumb  contains 
about  70  hot  springs,  many  of  which  are  remarkable  for  their  brilliant 
colouring.  One  lies  so  close  to  the  lake,  that  it  is  literally  possible 
to  catch  a trout  in  the  lake  and  cook  it  in  the  spring  without  chang- 
ing one’s  position.  About  150  yds.  from  the  lake  is  a group  of  *Pamt 
Pots,  which  any  visitors  consider  more  striking  than  those  described 
at  p.  485.  A small  Steamer  plies  from  this  point  to  (20  M.)  the 
Yellowstone  Lake  Hotel  (see  p.  488). 


488  Route  84,  YELLOWSTONE  PARK.  Yellowstone  Lake. 


This  steamer-trip  forms  a very  attractive  alternative  route  to  the 
hotel.  It  is  included  in  the  price  of  the  Wylie  tickets  (p.  481),  but  all 
other  passengers  pay  $ 3 extra. 

From  the  Thumb  Station  a road  leads  to  the  S.  to  the  (48  M.)  Jackson  Hole 
and  Teton  Mts.  It  is  much  used  as  an  approach  to  the  Park  by  camping 
parties  from  the  S.,  while  many  tourists  also  make  a side-trip  from  the 
Park  to  see  the  grand  scenery  of  the  valley  known  as  the  Jackson  Hole. 

From  the  Thumb  to  the  Hotel  our  road  runs  for  some  way  along 
the  W.  bank  of  *Yellowstone  Lake  (7721  ft.;  1428  ft.  above  the 
top  of  Mt.  Washington,  p.  169),  one  of  the  largest  bodies  of  water 
in  the  world  at  so  lofty  an  altitude,  having  an  area  of  140  sq.  M.,  a 
shore-line  of  about  100  M.,  and  a longest  diameter  of  18  M.  Its 
shape  is  irregular  and  has  been  likened  to  a hand  with  three  fingers 
and  a thumb.  The  outlet  is  at  the  wrist  (N.),  near  the  Yellowstone 
Lake  Hotel.  The  lake  is  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains.  The  Yellow- 
stone River  enters  it  on  the  S.  and  issues  from  it  on  the  N.  After 
5 M.  the  road  quits  the  lake  and  leads  across  the  hills  (a  somewhat 
monotonous  route)  to  (9  M.)  Bridge  Bay^  where  it  regains  the  lake. 
The  bay  gets  its  name  from  a curious  Natural  Bridge,,  40  ft.  high  and 
30  ft.  across,  passed  about  1 1/2  before  we  reach  the  bay.  A drive 
of  2 M.  more  along  the  N.  shore  brings  us  to  the  Hotel. 

The  '^Yellowstone  Lake  Hotel,  35  M.  from  the  Upper  Basin,  is 
well  situated  on  a bluff  overlooking  the  lake  and  backed  by  a forest. 
It  commands  a fine  view  of  the  lake  and  of  the  Absaroka  Mts. 
beyond.  Among  the  chief  of  these  (named  from  N.  to  S.)  are  Mts. 
Cathedral  (10,700  ft.),  Chittenden  (10,190  ft.),  Silver  Tip  (10,400  ft.), 
Grizzly  (9700  ft.),  Doane  (10,500  ft.),  Langford  (10,600  ft.),  Steven- 
son (10,300  ft.),  Atkins  (10,900  ft.),  Schurz  (10,900  ft.).  Eagle  Peak 
(10,800  ft.),  and  Table  (10,800  ft.).  Nearly  due  S.,  considerably  to 
the  right  of  those  just  mentioned,  are  the  Red  Mts.,  culminating  in 
Mts.  Sheridan  (10,250  ft.)  and  Hancock  (10,100  ft.).  The  numerous 
islands  in  the  lake  also  enter  pleasantly  info  the  view. 

Boats  (50c.  per  hour)  may  be  hired  for  excursions,  and  the  fishing  . 
is  excellent,  the  trout  being  large  and  voracious  (use  of  fishing-tackle 
25  c.  a day).  — The  bears  in  the  adjoining  forest  are  almost  as  tame  as 
those  mentioned  at  p.  485. 

Near  the  Yellowstone  Lake  ends  the  E.  approach  to  the  Park,  v'hich 
begins  at  Cody  (comp.  pp.  481,  496),  35  M.  beyond  the  boundary  of  the 
Forest  Reserve,  through  which  and  through  the  Park  it  runs  for  60  M. 
to  this  point.  The  scenery  on  this  route,  particularly  in  Sylvan  Pass  and 
along  the  Shoshone  River,,  is  very  grand. 

e.  From  Yellowstone  Lake  to  the  Grand  Canon. 

17  M.  Stage  in  3V2  hrs. 

The  road  leads  to  the  N.  and  N.W.,  following  the  left  bank  of  the 
Yellowstone  River.  About  71/2  M.  from  the  hotel,  to  the  left,  is  the 
•“^Mud  Caldron  or  Volcano,  one  of  the  weirdest  and  most  extraordinary 
sights  in  the  Park.  It  consists  of  a circular  crater  about  30  ft. 
deep,  the  bottom  of  which  is  filled  with  boiling  mud , constantly 
rising  in  pasty  bubblings,  interspersed  with  more  violent  eruptions. 
The  horrible  appearance  of  the  muddy  pulsations  and  the  groaning 


Grand  Canon. 


YELLOWSTONE  PARK.  8i.  Route.  489 


sounds  which  accompany  them  suggest  an  entrance  to  Inferno,  with 

the  spirits  of  the  damned  making  abortive  efforts  to  escape. The 

road  here  enters  Hayden  Valley,  a broad  open  tract  along  the  Yellow- 
stone. At  Trout  Creek,  2 M.  farther  on,  a branch-road  or  loop  di- 
verges for  the  Sulphur  Mt,  or  the  Crater  Hills  (150  ft.),  where  large 
amounts  of  sulphur  have  been  deposited  by  the  various  vents  The 
large  boiling  spring,  at  the  foot  of  the  highest  hill,  is  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  sulphur,  and  its  fumes  are  very  disagreeable.  To  the 
left  are  several  small  mud-springs.  We  rejoin  the  main  road  near 
(di,  2 M.)  Alum  Creek,  about  21/2  M.  beyond  which  we  arrive  at  the 
head  of  the  rapids  of  the  Yellowstone,  just  above  the  Upper  Falls 
To  the  right  here  is  a new  concrete  and  steel  bridge,  crossing  the 
river  and  giving  access  to  Artist’s  Point  (p.  490).  Our  road  continues 
in  a straight  direction  crosses  a wooden  bridge,  and  passes  close  to 
the  Upper  Falls  (p.  490).  In  1/4  M.  more  we  reach  the  junction  of 
the  cross-road  to  (11  M.)  Norris  (see  p.  484),  then  cross  Cascade 
Creek  on  a steel  arch  bridge  of  250  ft.  span,  and  ascend  the  hill  with 
a capital  view  of  the  Grand  Canon,  to  the  — 

^-Grand  Canon  Hotel  (7710  ft.),  which  is  finely  situated  on  an 
elevated  plateau,  about  1/4  from  tbe  river  and  the  upper  end  of  the 
canon.  It  is  a pleasant  point  for  a stay  of  a few  days,  as  the  attractions 
of  the  canon  demand  repeated  visits,  while  good  fishing  may  be 
enjoyed  in  the  river  above  and  below  the  falls. 

ihe  Grand  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone,  in  some  ways  the  most 
marvellous  and  indubitably  the  most  beautiful  of  the  wonders  of  the 
Yellowstone,  extends  from  the  Great  Falls  (p.  490)  to  a point 
^ distance  of  about  20  M.  Its  depth  is  from  600 
to  UOO  ft.,  and  its  width  at  the  top  varies  from  about  300  yds.  to 
loOO  yds.  The  upper  part  of  the  canon,  where  it  is  at  its  deepest 
and  narrowest,  is  also  the  scene  of  its  most  gorgeous  colouring  the 
tints  of  the  enclosing  cliffs  including  the  most  brilliant  shadU  of 
red,  orange,  yellow,  and  purple,  ‘as  if  a rainbow  had  fallen  from  the 
sky  and  been  shattered  on  the  rocks’.  The  formation  of  the  crags 
and  cliffs  is  exceedingly  bold  and  picturesque.  Far  below  flows  the 
river,  a thread  of  the  most  exquisite  green.  The  margins  of  the  canon 
are  iringed  with  dark-green  pines. 

should  follow  the  good  road  which  leads  to  the  S.E.  from  the 

feads  t^the  brinirof  of  canon  in  hotel),  enters  the  wood,  and 

i ^ i at  oanon,  which  we  reach  near  -Look-out  Point 

appear  the  Lower  Falls 
^elow  Look-out  Point 

r ^ached  by  a steep  but  safe  trail,  also  affords  a good  view  of  the  falls.1 
follow  the  road  along  the  edge  of  the  canon  towards  the  left  (E  ) 
passing  various  good  points  of  view.  A small  geyser  may  he  observed 
sending  up  its  column  of  fteam  far  below  on  the^side  of  the  chasm,  and 
a qxnck  eye  will  easily  detect  some  eagles’  nests  on  the  inaccessible  peaks 

Point^fMW  ft  ^ we  reach 

roint  (lUUU  tt.  above  the  river),  which  commands  a splendid  view  of  the 

and^nf^+^ip^i?^^^  upper  part  of  the  canon  (afternoon-light  the  best) 

limit  nJfhf  . pine-clad  Lower  Canon.®  This  hihi 
limit  of  the  road  in  this  direction  and  we  may  now  retrace  our  steps! 


490  Route  84.  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 


Tower  Falls. 


[Those  who  do  not  care  to  walk  both  ways  can  ride  or  drive  to  Inspiration 
Point  and  Look-out  Point.! 

The  *"Great  or  Lower  Falls  of  the  Yellowstone,  as  striking,  though  not 
so  high,  as  the  famous  falls  of  the  Yosemite  (p.  578),  plunge  from  a 
height  of  310  ft.  into  the  abyss  of  the  chasm.  The  river  suddenly  con- 
tracts here  from  a width  of  250  ft.  to  75  ft.  The  falls  are  reached  from 
the  hotel  in  10-20  min.  either  by  a direct  trail  (steep),  or  by  an  easy  trail 
diverging  from  the  road  at  the  bridge  over  the  Cascade  Falls  (p.  489).  The 
platform  at  the  head  of  the  falls  commands  a fine  view  of  the  canon, 
with  Look-out  Point  conspicuous  to  the  left  (Inspiration  Point  concealed). 
— To  reach  the  -Upper  Falls,  which  are  1/2  M.  farther  up  and  about  110  ft. 
high,  we  cross  the  above-mentioned  bridge,  follow  the  road  for  a few 
minutes  more,  cross  a second  bridge  (to  the  left),  and  then  follow  the 
road  through  the  wood.  The  rapids  above  the  Upper  Falls  are  picturesque  ; 
the  stretch  of  water  between  the  two  falls  is  to  all  appearance  calm  and 
sluggish,  th  ugh  the  current  is  really  very  rapid.  — Some  good  views  are 
also  obtained  •>om  the  opposite  side  of  the  canon,  which  may  be  reached 
by  the  new  bri(i^;e  mentioned  at  p.  489.  One  of  the  grandest  is  that  from 
Artisfs  Point.,  near  where  Thomas  Moran  painted  the  picture  of  the  Yellow- 
stone, now  in  the  Capitol  at  Washington. 

Ascent  of  Mt.  W'lshburn^  see  below. 

f.  Fxoni  the  Grand  Canon  to  Tower  Falls. 

20  M.  Stage  in  5 hrs.,  including  stop  at  the  summit  of  Mt.  Washburn. 

This  is  a remarkable  mountain  drive,  presenting  grand  scenery  of 
a character  entirely  different  from  that  passed  through  in  other  parts 
of  the  circuit  of  the  Park.  From  the  hotel  the  road  ascends  gradually 
along  the  wooded  S.  slope  of  Mt.  Washburn,  affording  beautiful  views 
and  traversing  vast  fields  of  wild  flowers.  At  (7  M.)  Dunraven  Pass 
(8865  ft.)  the  road  divides,  the  main  and  nearly  level  branch  leading 
straight  on  through  the  pass  and  along  the  W.  flank  of  the  mountain. 
We,  however,  take  the  branch  to  the  right,  which  ascends  in  many 
steep  zigzags  and  windings,  to  (3  M.)  the  top  of  Mt.  Washburn 
(10  345  ft.),  about  1500  ft.  above  Dunraven  Pass.  The  splendid  *View 
from  this  point  includes  a large  part  of  the  Park,  Yellowstone  Lake, 
the  Teton  Mts.,  Cinnabar  Mt.,  and  the  Ahsaroka  and  Gallatin  ranges. 
Mt.  Washburn  was  one  of  the  craters  which  threw  out  the  material 
which  now  composes  the  Park  plateau,  and  its  outlines  can  be  traced 
to  the  W.  of  the  summit,  on  the  watershed  of  Tower  Creek.  — From 
the  top  the  road  descends  the  slope  to  (3  M.)  the  point  of  junction 
with  the  main  road  (see  above ; 4 M.  from  the  point  of  divergence). 
It  then  continues  the  descent  to  (6  M.)  Tower  Creek,  which  we  cross 
near  the  *Tower  Falls  (110  ft.  in  height),  perhaps  the  most  beautiful 
in  the  Park.  They  are  not,  however,  visible  from  the  road.  About 
t/2  M.  farther  on  the  road  passes  under  an  overhanging  cliff  on  the 
left  (200  ft.),  while  on  the  right  we  look  down  into  the  chasm  of  the 
Yellowstone,  500  ft.  deep.  Above  the  bed  of  the  river  rises  the 
Needle.,  a vertical  column  of  rock,  360  ft.  high.  Just  beyond  this  is 
the  site  of  the  new  Tower  Falls  Hotel,  which  is  to  be  open  for 
visitors  in  1904  or  1905. 

When  this  hotel  is  ready,  it  will  be  an  excellent  centre  for  excursions 
and  fishing.  Among  the  points  of  interest  are  the  Petrified  Forests,  Lost 
Creek  Canon  and  Falls^  Lamar  River  Cation,  Soda  Butte,  and  Death  Quick, 


COUNCIL  BLUFFS. 


85.  Route.  491 


To  the  E,,  among  the  Absaroka  Mts.  (p.  490),  is  the  region  known  as 
Hoodoo  or  Gohhn  Land,  where  the  extraordinarily  grotesque  forms  of  the 
rocks  and  crags  will  repay  the  lover  of  the  marvellous  who  is  prepared  for 
a somewhat  rough  and  trying  expedition. 

The  region  about  the  Tower  Falls  Hotel  is  known  popularly  as  '■Yancey'' s’' 
from  John  Yancey,  who  died  in  1C03,  after  many  years  here  as  the  landlord 
01  a rude  hotel. 

g.  From  Tower  Falls  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs. 

22  M.  Stage  in  about  4 hrs. 

The  road  at  first  ascends  to  the  N.W.,  passing,  after  31/2  M.,  the 
road  leading  to  the  right  to  Baronette  Bridge,  over  the  Yellowstone. 
It  then  turns  to  the  left  (W.),  passes  near  Yancey’s  Inn  (see  above)’ 
a cends  through  Crescent  HiU  Canon  and  reaches  (5  M.)  a high  plateau. 
Thence  it  descends  gradually  to  (12 M.)  the  high  steel-arched  bridge 
over  the  Middle  Gardiner  river,  and  iy2M.  farther  on  reaches  the 
end  of  the  round  of  the  Park  at  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  (p.  482). 

85.  From  Chicago  to  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha. 

a.  Vi^  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  and  St.  Paul  Eailway. 

492  M.  Railway  in  14-15  hrs.  (fare  $ 12.75;  sleeper  $ 2.50).  — This 
forms  part  oi  tbe  Western  Midland  Route  to  California  (through-cars  from 
Chicago  to  San  Francisco  and  Los  Angeles).  n 

Chicago  (Canal  St.  Station),  see  p.  346.  The  line  runs  towards 
the  W.  through  a farming  district.  31  M.  Elgin  (700  ft.;  Fosgate, 
$2-21/2),  a busy  city  of  22,433  inhab.  on  the  Fox  River,  with  large 
watch  and  other  factories.  From  (80  M.)  Davis  Junction  a line  runs 
to  the  N,  to  (13  M.)  Rockford  (p.  463).  — 138  M.  Savanna  (570  ft.; 
Savanna  Ho.,  Radke  Ho.,  $2),  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  is  the 
junction  of  lines  running  N.  to  Dubuque  (p.  363)  and  S.  to  J^ocA;  Island 
(p.  493).  Our  line  here  crosses  the  river  to  (141  M.)  Sabula  and 
enters  Iowa  (p.  494).  174  M.  Delmar  Junction  (810  ft.);  193  M. 
Oxford  Junction  (720  ft.);  228  M.  Marion,  the  junction  of  a line  to 
Cedar  Rapids  (p.  493)  and  Kansas  City  (p.  507)  ; 282  M.  Tama  City. 
From  (348  M.)  Madrid  and  from  (378  M.)  Herndon  lines  run  to  Des 
Moines  (p.  494),  while  another  line  runs  to  the  N.  from  Herndon  to 
Lakes  Okoboj  and  (125  M.)  Spirit  Lake,  frequented  summer- resorts. 
39d  M.  Coon  Rapids;  427  M.  Manilla,  junction  of  a line  to  Sioux 
City  (p.  375);  468  M.  Neola. 

488  M.  Council  Bluffs  (980  ft.;  Grand  Hotel,  $21/2-4,  R.  from 
$ 1)  , a flourishing  city  of  (1900)  25,802  inhab.,  at  the  foot  of  the 
blufls  of  the  Missouri,  2^2  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  river,  owes  its  prosperity 
mainly  to  the  fact  that  it  is  the  principal  E.  terminus  of  the  great 
Union  Pacific  Railway  (see  R.  87)  and  the  converging  point  of  the 
E.  railways  connecting  with  it.  Many  of  the  public  buildings  are 
large  and  substantial.  Fairmount  Park  is  prettily  laid  out  and  com- 
mands fine  views.  Council  Bluffs  is  connected  with  Omaha  by  two 
railway-bridges  and  a road-bridge. 


492  Route  S5. 


OMAHA . 


From  Chicago 


Our  train  now  runs  into  tlie  (489^/2  M.)  Union  Pacific  Transfer 
Station  and  then  crosses  the  Missouri  by  a substantial  */ron  Bridge^ 
more  than  V2  erected  at  a cost  of  $1,000,000. 

492  M.  Omaha  (1030  ft;  Paxton  Ho.^  from  $ 2%  R.  from  $ 1; 
Millard,  from  $2,  R.  from  $1;  Murray,  $2-3;  Dellone,  $2-3; 
Merchants^  $2-3),  the  largest  city  in  Nebraska  (‘Antelope  State’) 
and  on  the  Missouri,  with  (1900)  102,555  inhah.,  is  situated  on  a 
plateau  sloping  up  from  the  W.  hank  of  the  river.  The  business- 
streets  adjoin  the  river,  while  the  pleasant  residence-quarters  occupy 
the  high  ground.  Among  the  more  important  buildings  are  the  Federal 
Building,  the  Coliseum  (a  convention -hall  with  12,000  seats),  the 
High  School  (fine  view  from  the  lofty  tower),  the  Burlington  Railway 
Station,  the  New  High  School,  the  County  Court  House,  the  Exposition 
Building,  the  City  Hall,  the  Omaha  Club,  the  Board  of  Trade,  the 
Post  Office,  several  Churches,  and  the  offices  of  the  Omaha  Bee  and 
the  New  York  Life  Insurance  Co.  — The  Public  Library  contains 
80,000  vols.  and  the  Byron  Reed  collection  of  arts  and  curios.  — 
The  *Art  Collection  of  Mr.  0.  W.  Lininger,  cor.  of  18th  and  Daven- 
port Sts.  (reached  by  Dodge  St.  cars  to  18th  St.;  open  on  Thurs. 
& Sun.,  to  strangers  at  other  times  also),  includes  paintings  by  Dra 
Angelico,  Guido  Reni,  Guercino,  Del  Sarto,  Solimena,  Giordano,  Rem- 
brandt, Zurbaran,  and  many  modern  masters.  — On  the  N.  side  of 
the  city  was  the  site  of  the  great  Trans- Mississippi  International 
Exposition  (1898),  some  of  the  handsome  structures  of  which  have 
been  permanently  retained. 

Omaha  (the  ‘Gate  CityO  owes  its  commercial  importance  to  its  po- 
sition as  one  of  the  chief  gateways  to  the  West  and  has  grown  rapidly 
since  its  foundation  in  1854.  Its  industries  include  smelting,  brewing, 
distilling,  meat-packing  (excelled  only  by  Chicago  and  Kansas  City), 
machine-shops,  and  the  making  of  bricks  and  steam-engines.  The  total 
value  of  their ‘products  in  1900  (including  S.  Omaha)  was  $ 113,000,000.  At 
(4  M.)  South  Omaha  (26,000  inhab.)  are  the  immense  stock-yards  and  pack- 
ing houses.  It  is  a railway-centre  of  great  importance,  being  practically 
the  E.  terminus  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railway  and  in  more  or  less  direct 
communication  with  all  the  chief  cities  of  the  E.  and  S. 

Fort  Omaha,  4 M.  to  the  N.,  is  the  headquarters  of  the  military  de- 
partment of  the  Missouri. 

From  Omaha  to  Portland,  see  R.  88;  to  Denver,  see  R.  86. 


b.  Via  Chicago  and  North-Western  Railway. 

493  M.  Railway  in  13-16  hrs.  (fares  as  above).  — Through-cars  run  to 
California  by  this  line  also. 

Chicago  (Wells  St.  Station),  see  p.  346.  This  line  follows  nearly 
the  same  general  direction  as  that  above  described.  Few  of  the  sta- 
tions are  of  great  importance.  Beyond  (98  M.)  Dixon  (720  ft.)  we 
follow  the  Rock  River  to  (109  M.)  Sterling,  a small  manufacturing 
city  (6309  inhab.),  with  good  water-power.  — From  (135  M.)  Fulton 
Junction,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  lines  run  N.  to  Savanna 
(p.  491)  and  Dubuque  (p.  363)  and  S.  to  Rock  Island  (p.  493). 
We  cross  the  river  by  a fine  Iron  Bridge,  ^/4  M.  long,  enter  Iowa, 


to  Omaha. 


ROOK  ISLAND. 


85.  Route.  493 


and  reach  (138  M.)  Clinton  (72511;  Windsor,  Revere  Ho.,  $2),  a 
prosperous  city  with  (1900)  22,698  inhab.  and  extensive  ’lumber- 
mills.  — 173  M.  Wheatland.  — 219  M.  Cedar  Rapids  (745  fl; 
Grand,  $2-4;  Delavan,  from  $21/2;  National),  a city  of  (1900) 
25,656  inhab.,  on  Red  Cedar  River,  is  an  important  railv/ay-centre 
(comp.  pp.  365,  491),  carries  on  an  extensive  trade,  and  contains 
large  pork-packing  establishments  and  several  manufactories. 

At  Amana,  20  M,  to  the  S.W.  of  Cedar  Rapids,  is  situated  the  largest 
and  most  prosperous  Communistic  settlement  in  the  country,  consisting  of 
1800  Germans,  styling  themselves  ‘Inspiraiionists’.  They  have  saw  and 
grist-mills,  produce  woolen  and  cotton  fabrics,  cultivate  25,0[)0  acres  of 
land,  and  keep  flocks  and  herds.  All  their  profits  are  shared.  In  their 
four  churches  under  one  roof  are  held  quaint  religious  services. 

244  m.  Relle  Plaine;  270  M.  Tama,'  326  M.  Ames,  the  junction 
of  a line  to  (37  M.)  Des  Moines  (p.  494).  Beyond  (340  M.)  Boone 
(1155  ft.)  we  descend  rapidly  into  the  valley  of  the  Des  Moines  River 
and  the  scenery  becomes  more  interesting.  We  cross  the  river  near 
(345  M.)^  Moingona.  Farther  on  we  again  traverse  a rich  prairie 
district.  363  M.  Grand  Junction.  Ni  M.)  Ma'ple  River  Junction 
we  bend  to  the  left  (S.).  406  M.  Arcadia  (1440  ft. ; 870  above  Lake 
Michigan)  is  said  to  be  the  highest  point  in  the  level  state  of  Iowa. 
Beyond  (424  M.)  Denison  we  pass  through  the  pretty  Boyer  Valley. 
Beyond  (467  M.)  Missouri  Valley  (1020  ft.),  the  junction  of  a line  from 
Sioux  City  (p.  375),  we  have  good  views  of  the  Missouri  and  its  bluffs. 

489  M.  Council  Bluffs,  and  thence  to  — 

493  M.  Omaha,  see  R.  85  a. 

c.  Vi§.  Chicago,  Rock  Island,  and  Pacific  Railway. 

503  M.  Railway  in  14-20  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Yan  Buren  St.  Station),  see  p.  346.  The  train  runs  at 
first  to  the  W.S.W.  through  a great  prairie  region,  which  offers  com- 
paratively little  of  interest  to  the  stranger,  except  the  sight  of  the 
growing  wheat.  — 40  M.  Joliet  (540  ft. ; Munroe,  Palmer,  St.  Nicho- 
las, $2),  an  agricultural  and  industrial  centre  with  29,353  inhab., 
on  the  Des  Plaines  River,  is  the  terminus  of  the  Illinois  and  Michigan 
Canal  and  the  seat  of  the  Illinois  State  Penitentiary.  In  front  of  the 
Public  Library  is  a statue  of  Louis  Joliet  (1645-1700),  the  French 
explorer,  by  S.  Asbjornsen.  The  immense  plant  of  the  Illinois  Steel 
Co.  covers  186  acres  and  is  the  centre  of  probably  the  most  extensive 
manufacture  of  barbed  wire  in  the  world.  In  the  vicinity  are  large 
limestone  quarries,  employing  3000  men.  — 84  M.  Ottawa  (10,600 
inhab.);  99  M.  La  Salle  (10,450  inhab.);  159  M.  Geneseo. 

181  M.  Rock  Island  (470  ft. ; Harper  Ho. , $ 2-3 ; Rock  Island 
Ho.,  $2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  an  important  railway  - centre  and  in- 
dustrial town  of  19,493  inhab.,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi.  It 
lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Moline  Rapids,  which  afford  good  water-power. 
The  island  in  the  river  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  970  acres  in 
area,  is  occupied  by  a large  * United  States  Arsenal. 


494  Route  85. 


DES  MOINES. 


From  Rock  Island  the  train  crosses  the  Mississippi^  by  a fine 
bridge,  enters  Iowa  (the  ‘Hawkeye  State’),  and  reaches  (18B  M.) 
Davenport  (580  ft.;  Kimball  Ho..,  St.  James.,  $^-3),  the  third  city 
of  Iowa,  with  (1900)  35,254  inhah.,  an  important  trade  in  grain  and 
coal,  and  numerous  manufactories.  It  is  well  situated  on  the  slopes 
of  a bluff  rising  from  the  river  and  contains  many  handsome  and 
substantial  buildings.  It  is  also  the  junction  of  a line  to  Kansas  City 
(p.  507).  — At  (222  M.)  West  Liberty  (665  ft.)  we  intersec  t the 
railway  from  Burlington  to  Minneapolis  (p.  367).  — 237  M.  Iowa 
City  (670  ft.;  Burkley  Imperial^  $2-3;  O'Reilly  Ho.,  $2;  St.  James, 
$2),  a city  of  (1900)  7987  inhab.,  on  the  Iowa  River,  with  various 
manufactories,  is  the  seat  of  the  State  University  and  the  State  Historical 
Library  (15,000  vols.).  — 303  M.  Grinnell;  335  M.  Colfax  (750  ft.), 
with  mineral  springs. 

358  M.  Des  Moines  (800  ft.;  Savery,  $ 3-41/2,  R-  $ 1V2"2V2; 
Kirkwood,  $21/2-31/2^  1 j Victoria,  R.  $ 1-2),  the  capital  of 

Iowa,  is  a city  of  (1900)  62,139  inhab.,  situated  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Bes  Moines  and  Raccoon  Rivers,  at  the  head  of  navigation  of 
the  former.  It  is  an  important  railway- centre  and  carries  on  a con- 
siderable trade  and  several  manufactures  (value  of  products  in  1900, 
$ 10,488,000).  Among  the  chief  buildings  are  the  new  State  Capitol 
(erected  at  a cost  of  $ 3,000,000;  almost  destroyed  by  a fire  early  in 
1904,  and  being  rebuilt),  the  Post  Office,  the  City  Hall,  the  Grand 
Opera  House,  Brake  University  (1200  students),  and  the  State  Library 
(50,000  vols.).  — The  train  continues  to  run  towards  the  W.  Be)  ond 
(479  M.)  Neola  we  descend  to  the  level  of  the  Missouri. 

499  M.  Council  Bluffs,  and  thence  to  — 

503  M.  Omaha,  see  R.  85  a. 

d.  Vi&  Chicago,  Burlington,  and  Quincy  Railroad. 

500  M.  Railway  in  14-17  brs.  (fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Canal  St.  Station),  see  p.  346.  The  line  runs  at  first 
towards  the  S.W.,  through  a rich  farming  district  similar  to  those 
mentioned  above. 

37  M.  Aurora  (p.  364);  83  M.  Mendota  (750  ft.);  163  M.  Gales- 
burg (790  ft. ; Union,  Brown’s,  from  $2;  Arlington),  a city  of  18,607 
inhab.,  with  two  flourishing  colleges,  various  industries,  and  a trade 
in  agricultural  produce.  — From  (205  M.)  Carthage  Junction  the 
train  crosses  the  Mississippi  to  — 

206  M.  Burlington  (525  ft. ; Belano,  $2-372;  Union,  $2),  the 
seventh  city  of  Iowa,  with  (1900)  23,201  inhab.  and  a considerable 
trade  by  river  and  railway.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  the 
business-quarters  on  the  river  bottom  and  the  residence-quarters  on 
the  bluffs  above.  The  Burlington  Institute,  the  Free  Public  Library 
(35,000  vols.) , and  the  County  Court  House  are  among  the  chief 
buildings.  — The  line  now  ascends  towards  the  W.  233  M.  Mt.  Plea- 


LINCOLN. 


86.  ttoute.  495 

sant  (725  ft.),  with  two  Methodist  colleges  and  a large  Insane  Asylum* 
280  M.  Ottumwa  (630  ft.),  on  the  Des  Moines,  with  (1900)  18,197  in- 
hah.  and  considerable  trade  and  industry  5 304  M.  Albia  (945  ft)  the 
junction  of  a line  to  (QS  M.)  Des  Moines  (p.  494):  360  M.  Osceola 
(1125  ft.).  Beyond  (393  M.)  Creston  (1250  ft.)  the  line  descends 
towards  the  Missouri  Bottom.  444  M.  Red  Oak  (1030  ft),  the  junction 
of  a line  to  (52  M.)  Nebraska  City  ^ 479  M.  Pacific  Junction  (960  ft.). 

496  M.  Council  Bluffs  and  thence  to  — 

500  M.  Omaha,  see  R.  85  a. 

e.  Vi§.  Illinois  Central  Railroad. 

516  M.  Railway  in  14  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

Chicago  (Central  Station),  see  p.  346.  This  line,  running  nearly 
due  W.,  passes  through  the  N.  portions  of  Illinois  and  Iowa.  From 
(114  M.)  Freeport,  branch-railways  run  to  (66  M.)  Dodgeville  and  to 
(62  M.)  Madison  (p.  362).  Between  (165  M.)  Galena  and  (183  M ) 
Dubuque  we  cross  the  Mississippi.  From  (230  M.)  Manchester  a branch- 
line  runs  to  (42  M.)  Cedar  Rapids  (p.  493);  and  from  (276  M) 
Waterloo  another  leads  to  (106  M.)  Albert  Lea  (p.  363).  At  (375  M.) 
Fort  Dodge  (12,162  inhab.;  Buncombe,  Logan,  $2),  a thriving  to\An, 
the  railway  divides,  the  N.  portion  leading  to  (451  M.)  Cherokee, 
where  it  again  divides  for  (510  M.)  Sioux  City  and  for  (547  M.)  Sioux 

Bodge  there  is  also  a branch-line  N.  to  Albert  Lea  • 
(p.  363).  The  main  line  bends  to  the  S.W.  to  (512  M.)  Council  Bluffs 
and  (516  M.)  Omaha  (p.  492). 


86.  From  Omaha  to  Denver, 

a.  Vi^  Chicago,  Burlington,  and  Quincy  Railroad. 

from  '''  ^ ^ Through-cars 

Omaha,  see  p.  492.  The  line  runs  towards  the  S.W.  and  crosses 
the  Platte  River.  — 31  M.  Ashland. 

55  M.  Lincoln  (Lincoln,  Lindell,  $ 2-31/2;  Windsor,  $ 2;  Capitol, 
capital  of  Nebraska  and  second  city  in  the  state 
with  (1900)  40,169  inhab.,  is  an  important  railway , industrial,  and 
commercial  centre.  Among  the  chief  buildings  are  the  Capitol,  the 
the  Penitentiary,  the  Vniversity  of  Nebraska 
(2250  students),  and  several  other  educational  institutions. 

From  Lincoln  to  Billings,  838  M.,  railway  (Burlington  Route)  in  29  hrs. 

through-route  for  passengers  for  the  Yellow- 
s one  Park  and  the  Pacific  Coast.  We  first  traverse  a farming  region. 
pa^ssing  numerous  small  stations.  - From  (4^/ 2M.)  Edgemont  (4450  ft.)  a branch 
mL w Deadwood  (4540  ft. ; Franklin,  $ 2-3V2 ; Bullock,  $23; 

town  (3498  inhab.)  in  the  important  mining 
Hot  T>akota  This  branch  also  leads  to  (29  M.) 

^ Gillespie,  from  $ 2),  the  water  of 
beneficial  for  rheumatism  and  cutaneous  and  stomachic 
diseases.  There  is  a large  Soldiers’  Home  here.  — Beyond  Edgemont  the 
Billings  line  traverses  a grazing  country.  Fot  far  from  (584  M.)  Minturn, 


496  Route  86. 


AKRON. 


on  the  Belle  Fourche  River,  is  the  curious  DeviVs  Tower  or  Bear  Lodge,  a 
natural  obelisk  of  columnar  basaltic  rock,  1200  ft.  high  and  tapering  from 
a diameter  of  800  ft.  at  the  bottom  to  375  ft.  at  the  top.  It  is  supposed  to 
be  ^he  neck  or  plug  of  an  extinct  volcano,  of  which  the  crater  has  been 
removed  by  erosion.  — 694  M.  Sheridan.  From  (767  M.)  Crow  Agency  we 
)iiay  visit  (2V2  M.)  the  scene  of  the  Custer  Massacre  (p.  472),  now  a national 
cemetery.  — From  (793  M.)  Toluca  a branch-line  runs  to  (129  M.)  Cody,  the 
nearest  railway-station  for  the  E.  road  into  Yellowstone  Park  (see  pp.  481,  488). 

At  (833  M.)  Billings  we  join  the  Northern  Pacific  Railway  (p.  472). 

108  M.  Fairmont;  152  M.  Hastings,  with  7188  inhab.;  206  M. 
Holdrege,  the  junction  for  the  line  to  Cheyenne  (p.  497) ; 229  M.  Ox- 
ford, on  the  Republican,  the  junction  of  the  line  from  St.  Louis  (p.  389). 
At  (283  M.)  McCook  the  time  changes  to  the  ‘Mountain’  standard 
(p  xviii).  The  country  is  now  less  thickly  settled.  We  enter  Colorado 
(p!  512)  at  (356  M.)  Haigler.  426  M.  Akron.  At  (474  M.)  Corona 
we  have  our  first  glimpse  of  Pike’s  Peak  (p.  530)  and  the  Rocky  Mts. 
Farther  on  Long’s  Peak  (p.  515)  is  prominent  to  theN. — In  approach- 
ing Denver  we  pass  the  large  soielting-works  of  Argo  (p.  514). 

538  M.  Denver,  see  p.  513. 

h.  Via.  Chicago,  Rock  Island,  and  Pacific  Railway. 

580  M.  Railway  in  15-18  hrs.  (fares  as  above).  — This  is  part  of  the 
Western  Midland  Route  to  California  (comp.  p.  491). 

Omaha,  see  p.  492.  The  route  is  much  the  same  as  that  above 
described.  — 58  M.  Lincoln,  see  p.  495.  116  M.  Fairbury.  At 
(149  M.)  Belleville  we  are  joined  by  the  line  from  Kansas  City 
(p.  507).  Mountain  time  is  reached  at  (244  M.)  Phillipsburg,  and 
Colorado  (p.  512)  is  entered  at  (383  M.)  Qoodland.  490  M.  Limon 
is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Colorado  Springs  (p.  528). 

580  M.  Denver,  see  p.  513. 

c.  Via.  Union  Pacific  Railroad. 

572  M.  Railway  in  14  hrs.  (fares  as  above). 

From  Omaha  to  (375  M.)  Julesburg,  see  R.  87.  Our  train  here 
diverges  to  the  left  from  the  main  line  to  Ogden  and  Portland  and 
follows  the  course  of  the  Platte  River . 432  M.  Sterling  (3920  ft.) 
526  M.  La  Salle  (4660  ft.). 

572  M.  Denver,  see  p.  513. 

87.  From  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha  to  San  Francisco. 

1795  M.  Union  Pacific  Railroad  to  (1003  M.)  Ogden  in  29-34  hrs.  and 
Southern  Pacific  Railway  thence  to  (1795  M.)  San  Francisco  in  27  hrs. 
(through-fare  $50^  sleeper  $ 11.50).  Through-carriages  (with  baths,  barber  s 
shop,  etc.)  and  dining-cars  (meals  it  la  carte)  are  attached  to  the  tvs  o dailj^ 
trains,  the  ‘Overland  Limited’  and  the  ‘California  Express’,  while  the  former 
also  includes  an  observation  car  and  the  latter  a tourist-car.  The  Uvei- 
land  Limited’  connects  at  Oakland  with  a Pullman  sleeper  for  Los  Angeles 
by  the  Coast  Line  (see  p.  556).  Passengers  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco 
by  this  route  (in  about  4 days;  fare  $80)  change  carriages  at  Chicago 

The  opening  of  the  Union  Pacific  and  Central  Pacific  Railways  (the 
latter  now  absorbed  in  the  Southern  Pacific  system)  in  1869  completed  the 


CHEYENNE. 


<57.  Route.  497 


first  railway  route  from  tlie  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific.  The  underlaking  was 
performed  with  the  aid  of  large  subsidies  in  money  and  land  from  the 
U.  S.  Government.  Though  the  Rockies  and  several  other  mountain-ranges 
are  crossed,  the  gradients  are  seldom  severer  than  1:50,  and  no  tunnels 
were  necessary  except  in  Utah  and  across  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha^  see  pp.  491, 492.  The  train  at  first  tra- 
verses the  manufacturing  suburbs  of  Omaha.  Beyond  (31  M.)  Elkhorn 
(1165  ft.)  we  run  along  the  left  bank  of  the  Platte  River through  a 
farming  and  prairie  district.  At  (49  M.)  Fremont  (1190  ft.)  we  are 
joined  by  a line  from  Sioux  City  (p.  375).  94  M.  Columbus  (1440  ft.), 
the  junction  of  lines  to  Sioux  City  and  other  points.  Our  train 
crosses  the  Loup  Fork  and  enters  upon  an  absolutely  straight 
stretch  of  track  40  M.  in  length.  156  M.  Grand  Island  (1860  ft.), 
a railway- centre  of  some  importance;  199  M.  Kearney  (2145  ft.); 
234  M.  Lexington  (2385  ft.).  At  (294  M.)  North  Platte  (2795  ft.  • 
3640  inhab.)  we  cross  the  North  Platte  River  and  pass  from  ‘Central’ 
to  ‘Mountain’  time  (p.  xviii).  — At  (375  M.)  Julesburg  (3455  ft.), 
the  junction  of  the  direct  line  to  Denver  (see  R.  86  c),  the  line  dips 
into  Colorado  but  returns  almost  at  once  to  Nebraska.  We  now 
quit  the  Platte  River,  which  we  have  followed  for  about  350  M. 

Near  (417  M.)  Sidney  (4090  ft.)  the  train  passes  from  the  farming 
district  of  Nebraska  into  the  grazing  district,  in  which  immense 
herds  of  cattle  are  reared.  Between  (468  M.)  Bushnell  and  (476  M.) 
Pine  Bluffs  we  enter  Wyoming.,  called  the  ‘Equality  State’  because 
its  men  and  women  have  equal  voting  rights.  — 519  M.  Cheyenne 
(pron.  Shyenn;  6050  ft.;  Inter -Ocean  Hotel,  $3-4;  Metropolitan, 
$2),  the  capital  of  Wyoming  (p.  482),  with  14,087  inhab.,  is  the 
junction  of  the  Denver  Pacific  branch  of  the  IJ.  P.  System  (from 
Kansas  City  and  Denver;  comp.  p.  517).  It  is  one  of  the  chief  centres 
of  the  cattle  industry  of  the  N.W.  Fort  Russell  lies  4 M.  to  the  N. 
of  Cheyenne.  — The  snow-clad  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  now  come 
into  sight  on  the  left,  including  Long's  Peak  (p.  515)  and  the  distant 
Spanish  Peaks  (p.  532).  To  the  N.  (right)  are  the  Black  Hills.  The 
train  ascends  rapidly,  passing  (538  M.)  Granite  Canon  (7310  ft.), 
tunnels  through  Sherman  Hill,  and  at  (552  M.)  Sherman  (8000  ft.) 
reaches  the  culminating  point  of  the  line,  where  we  cross  the  main 
ridge  of  the  Rocky  Mts.,  the  great  ‘Continental  Divide’.  To  the  left 
is  the  Ames  Monument,  65  ft.  high,  erected  to  Oakes  and  Oliver  Ames, 
to  whom  the  completion  of  the  U.P.  Railway  was  mainly  due.  To  the 
left  may  be  descried  Pikes  Peak  (p.  530),  165  M.  off.  To  the  right 
&IQ  thQ  Red  Buttes.  — 576  M.  Laramie  (7150  ft.;  The  Thornburg  or 
Railway  Hotel,  $4;  Johnson,  Phillips,  Raster,  each  $2),  a city  of 
8207  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Big  Laramie  River,  in  the  midst  of  the  so- 
called  Laramie  Plains,  one  of  the  best  grazing  districts  in  the  United 
States.  It  is  a wool-market  of  considerable  importance. 

In  summer  stages  ply  from  Laramie  to  "North  Park,  which  lies  about 
60  M.  to  the  S.  North  Park  is  one  of  the  great  natural  parks  of  Colo- 
rado, which  consist  of  large  elevated  plains  or  upland  valleys  surrounded 
by  lofty  mountains.  They  ofter  considerable  attractions  to  the  adventur- 

Baedeker'’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  qo 


498  Route  87. 


OGDEN. 


From  Council  Bluffs 


ous  traveller  and  to  the  sportsman  in  search  of  large  game,  hnt  are  some- 
what beyond  the  range  of  the  ordinary  tourist.  North  Park  has  an  area 
of  2000-2500  sq.  M.,  with  a mean  elevation  of  8-9000  ft.  It  may  also  be 
reached  from  Denver  via  Fort  Collins  (see  p.  515).  The  other  natural 
parks  of  Colorado  are  Middle  Park  (p.  515),  Estes  Park  (p.  515),  Soiith 
Park  (p.  516),  and  San  Luis  Park  (p.  532). 

Beyond  Laramie  the  train  continues  to  descend  through  rugged 
hilly  scenery.  To  the  right  rises  Laramie  Peak  (9000  ft.),  to  the  left 
Elk  Mt.  (11,510  ft.),  the  N.  outpost  of  the  Medicine  Bow  Mts.  615  M. 
Rock  River' 0d700  it: ; Rail.  Restaurant);  637  M.  Allen]  (6815  ft.); 
653  M.  Hanna  (6790  ft.).  Beyond  (678  M.)  Fort  Steele  (6505  ft.) 
we  cross  fhQ  North  Platte,  which,  re-appears  here,  300  M.  from  the  point 
we  last  saw  it  (see  p.  497).  We  now  begin  to  ascend  again.  693  M. 
Rawlins  (6745  ft.).  We  now  cross  another  (725  M.)  ^Continental 
Divide'  (7100  ft.) , beyond  which  the  train  descends  to  the  plains. 
787  M.  Point  of  Rocks  (6505  ft.).  At  (827  M.)  Green  River  (6080  ft.) 
we  cross  the  river  of  that  name,  and  the  scenery  again  improves. 
The  construction  of  the  line  between  Green  River  and  (840  M.) 
Bryan  (6185  ft.)  deserves  attention. 

857  M.  Granger  (6280  ft.)  is  the  point  at  which  the  Portland  line 
(Oregon  Short  Line)  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  main  San  Fran- 
cisco line  (see  p.  503).  The  main  line  continues  to  run  towards  the 
W.  through  a somewhat  monotonous  country.  Good  views  of  the 
snow-clad  Uintah  Mts.  to  the  left.  886  M.  Carter  (6510  ft.).  Beyond 
(901  M.)  Leroy  (6700  ft.)  we  pierce  Aspen  Ridge,  one  of  the  E.  foot- 
hills of  the  Wahsatch  Mountains,  by  a tunnel  1970  yds.  long.  927  M. 
Evanston  (6760  ft.).  About  8 M.  farther  on  we  enter  Utah  (called  by 
the  Mormons  ‘Deseret’).  The  Utah  Enclosed  Basin,  which  we  now 
traverse,  is  remarkable  for  the  fact  that  its  waters  have  no  outlet  to  the 
sea,  but  flow  into  salt  lakes  which  in  summer  get  rid  of  their  surplus 
by  evaporation.  At  (947  M.)  Castle  Rock  (6240  ft.),  where  an  obser- 
vation car  is  attached  to  the  train , we  enter  the  wild  *Echo  Canon, 
with  its  wonderful  rock  and  mountain  scenery.  We  emerge  from 
this  near  (963  M.)  Echo  (5470  ft.),  and  a little  farther  on  reach  the 
* Weber  Canon,  wider  and  less  confined  than  Echo  Canon,  but  in  its 
way  equally  imposing.  Tunnels.  Beyond  (986  M.)  Peterson  (4895  it.) 
we  descend  into  the  Valley  of  Salt  Lake. 


1003  M.  Ogden  (4300  ft.;  Reed  Ho.,  $2-3;  Depot  Hotel,  with 
rail,  restaurant,  $3,  meals  75  c.;  Broom  House,  the  W.  ter- 

minus of  the  Union  Pacific  R.  R.  and  the  E.  terminus  of  this  section 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  R.  R.,  is  a prosperous  industrial  city  of 
(1900)  16,313  inhab.  , situated  on  a lofty  plateau  surrounded  by 
mountains.  It  is  also  the  terminus  of  the  Rio  Grande  Western  Rail- 
way (see  R.  94  a).  Salt  Lake  City  lies  37  M.  to  the  S.  (see  p.  539). 

From  Ogden  to  Pocatello,  13i  M. , Oregon  Short  Line  in  5 krs. 
The  line  runs  to  the  N.,  affording  views  of  Salt  Lake  (P-  5^=^)  I 
left.  Beyond  (9  M.)  Utah  Hot  Springs,  at  the  base  of  the  WaMatch  Mts., 
we  see  to  the  right  some  fine  crag  scenery  with  curious  conical  peaks. 


to  San  Francisco. 


RENO. 


87.  Route.  499 


From  (14  M.)  Willard  a visit  may  be  paid  to  the  (3  M.)  Willard  Falls  and 
Ca%on.  Beyond  this  point  the  ancient  bench-marks  on  the  mountains  are 
very  conspicuous.  Between  (21  M.)  Brigham  and  (30  M.)  Honeyville  we  cross 
a small  shallowjake.  Farther  on  the  scenery  is  imposing,  with  the  deep 
*^B6ar  River  Canon  to  the  left,  while  the  rocky  hills  tower  above  us  to 
the  right.  We  cross  two  lateral  gorges  on  trestles.  On  the  other  side  of 
the  canon  is  an  irrigating  canal,  a fine  piece  of  engineering,  tunnelled 
at  several  points  through  the  rock.  49  M.  Cache  Junction;  71  M.  Dayton; 
111  M.  McCarnmon.  — 134  M.  Pocatello,  see  p.  503. 

Visitors  may  bathe  in  Salt  Lake  (see  p.  542)  by  going  by  railway  from 
Ogden  to  (15  M.)  Syracuse  Beach.,  a pleasant  little  lake-resort.  — Another 
favourite  point  is  the  Ogden  River  Ca%on  (a  drive  of  V2hr.). 

To  the  W.  of  Ogden  we  continue  our  journey  by  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railroad,  which  formerly  was  carried  around  the  N.  end  of  Salt 
Lake,  but  now  crosses  that  sheet  of  water,  nearly  in  the  middle,  on 
a trestle  23  M.  long,  almost  all  of  which  is  to  be  filled  in  with  solid 
earthwork.  By  the  construction  of  this  so-called  ‘Ogden -Lucin 
Out-off  , which  has  already  cost  $4,500,000  (900,000  the  railway 
has  been  shortened  by  44  M.,  and  improved  by  the  consequent  eli- 
mination of  curves  and  grades.  Farther  to  the  W.,  more  than  360  M. 
of  the  original  road-bed  of  the  Central  Pacific  Railroad  have  been 
abandoned.  By  all  this  colossal  work  the  time  of  the  transconti- 
nental journey  will  be  reduced  by  about  7 hrs. 

1108  M.  Lucin  is  the  end  of  the  cut-off.  To  the  S.W.  rises  Pilot 
Peak  (10,900  ft.).  Just  before  reaching  (1120  M.)  Tecoma  (4810  ft.) 
we  enter  Nevada  (‘Sage  Brush  State’),  the  boundary  being  marked 
by  a stone  monument.  At  (1156  M.)  Pequop  (6185  ft.)  we  cross  the 
ridge  of  the  Pequop  Mts.  We  then  descend  into  Independence  Valley 
and  re-ascend  to  (1173  M.)  Moor  (6165  ft.),  in  Cedar  Pass.  1181  M. 
Wells  (5630  ft.),  with  several  springs,  to  some  of  which  no  bottom  has 
been  found;  1213  M.  Halleck  (5230 ft.) ; 1235  M.  Elko  (5065  ft. ; Rail. 
Restaurant).  Elko  Mt.  is  seen  first  to  the  right  and  then  to  the  left. 
Piute  Indians  now  begin  to  show  themselves  at  the  stations,  dickering 
for  their  baskets,  moss-agates  in  tiny  bottles,  and  other  odd  wares. 
1261  M.  Carlin  (4905  ft.).  1270  M.  Palisade  (4840  ft.),  in  a small 
canon,  is  the  junction  of  a narrow-gauge  line  to  (80  M.)  Eureka,  in 
a rich  mining  district.  Farther  on  we  cross  the  Humboldt  River,  and 
follow  it  for  some  time.  To  the  N.  are  the  Cortez  Mts.  1321  M.  Battle 
Mountain  (4510  ft.);  1381  M.  Winnemucca  (4330ft.).  To  the  N.  are 
the  Santa  Rosa  Mts.  1421  M.  Humboldt  (4235  ft.),  a tiny  oasis  in 
the  desert.  A little  farther  on  we  again  cross  the  Humboldt  River, 
which  flows  into  Humboldt  or  Carson  Sink,  to  the  S.  of  the  line.  — 
1482  M.  White  Plains  (3895  ft.),  the  lowest  point  on  the  line  for 
1300  M. ; 1497  M.  Hot  Springs  (1070  ft.).  — At  (1508  M.)  Wadsworth 
(4085  ft.)  we  begin  the  long  ascent  to  the  ridge  of  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
following  the  Truckee River,  which  we  cross  nine  times  before  arriving 
at  Reno.  The  scenery  becomes  picturesque.  Numerous  snow-sheds  are 
passed.  — 1543  M.  Reno  (4500  ft.;  Riverside,  $ 21/2;  Arcade,  $ IV2), 
a busy  little  town  of  4500  inhab.,  with  the  State  University  of  Nevada 
(400  students),  flour-mills,  and  smelting-mills. 


32* 


500  Routes?. 


SIERRA  NEVADA.  From  CouneU  Bluffs 


From  Reno  to  Virginia  City,  52  M.,  railway  in  3 hrs.  The  chief 
intermediate  station  is  (31 M.)  Carson  {Arlington^  $2),  the  capital  of  Nevada, 
a small  city  of  2100  inhabitants.  Stages  run  hence  daily  (fare  $2)  to  (15  M.) 
Olenbyook,  on  Lake  Tahoe  (see  below). 

52  M.  Virginia  City  (6205  ft. ^ International^  $2V2-3),  a silver-mining 
city  of  2695  inhab.,  will  well  repay  a visit  to  all  who  are  interested  in 
mining.  The  famous  Comstock  Lode  has  produced  (since  1859)  gold  and 
silver  to  the  amount  of  $ 500,000,000  (100,000,000?.).  The  Sutro  Tunnel.^ 
which  drained  the  lode , is  nearly  4 M.  long  and  cost  $ 4,500,000.  About 
six  years  ago  the  mine  was  abandoned  and  submerged,  but  efforts  are  now 
being  made  to  pump  it  out  again.  Mt.  Davidson  (7825  ft.)  commands  an 
extensive  view.  — Tourists  may  leave  Reno  in  the  morning,  spend  the 
greater  part  of  the  day  at  Virginia  City,  return  for  the  night  to  Carson, 
drive  to  Olenhrook  (see  below)  next  day,  cross  Lake  Tahoe  to  Tahoe  (see 
below),  and  go  thence  by  train  to  (15  M.)  Truckee  (see  below). 

Beyond  Reno  the  train  enters  California  (‘El  Dorado  State’). 
1578  M.  Truckee  (5820  ft.). 

From  Truckee  to  Tahoe,  15  M.,  railway  in  1 hr.  (return- fare,  including 
steamer-circuit  of  Lake  Tahoe,  $ 5).  — The  narrovz-gauge  line  runs  through 
the  picturesque  Truckee  River  Canon.  11  M.  Deer  Park.^  for  (2^2  M.)  Deer 
Park  Springs  (Hotel,  $21/2-3).  — 15  M.  Tahoe  {Tahoe  Tavern^  with  room 
for  250  guests,  $31/2)  lies  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  beautiful  ^Lake  Tahoe 
(6700  ft.),  which  is  22  M.  long,  10  M.  wide,  and  1500  ft.  deep.  Its  clear, 
ice-cold  water  never  freezes,  although  surrounded  by  snow-clad  mountains. 
It  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  scenic  features  of  California,  and  well 
worthy  of  a visit.  — A small  steamer,  plying  in  connection  with  the  trains, 
makes  the  round  of  the  lake  (8  hrs.),  calling  at  McKinney''s  (Hotel,  $ 10-15 
per  week),  Rubicon  Park  ($  2),  Tallac  (-Tallac  Hotel,  from  $ 2V2),  Olenhrook 
(Lake  Shore  House),  Brockway  (Hotel,  from  $21/2),  and  other  points. 

About  3 M.  to  the  W.  of  Truckee  is  the  pretty  Lake  Bonner.^  the 
name  of  which  is  associated  with  a sad  tale  of  suffering  and  death  in 
the  early  annals  of  the  pioneers  of  California  (1846-47).  The  train 
continues  to  ascend,  through  imposing  scenery,  and  reaches  the  highest 
point  of  the  pass  across  the  Sierra  Nevada  at  (1592  M.)  Summit 
Station  (7020  ft.) , where  we  thread  a tunnel  530  yds.  long.  About 
4 M.  to  the  N.  is  Mt  Stanford  or  Fremont's  Peak  (9175  ft.;  ^Yiew). 

The  Sierra  Nevada  (‘Snowy  Range’)  is  the  name  given  in  Calitornia 
to  the  magnificent  range  the  N.  continuation  of  which,  in  Oregon  and 
Washington,  is  known  as  the  Cascade  Mts.  (see  p.  476).  It  forms  the  W.  edge 
of  the  highest  portion  of  the  Cordillerean  system  (p.  Ixx)  and  is,  perhaps, 
on  the  whole  the  most  conspicuous  chain  of  mountains  in  the  country. 
From  Mt.  San  Jacinto  to  Mt.  Shasta  it  is  about  600  M.  long;  but  ^me 
geographers  consider  that  the  Sierra  proper  ends  at  Lassen  s Peak,  lOUM. 
to  the  S.  of  Mt.  Shasta.  Geologically,  this  is  certainly  true,  for  the  Cas- 
cades, including  Lassen’s  Peak  and  Shasta,  are  volcanic,  and  the  Smrra 
is  not  (comp.  p.  584).  The  average  elevation  of  the  Sierra  is  5-10,000  tt., 
and  several  of  its  peaks,  such  as  Mt.  Whitney  (p.  564),  Mt.  Shasta  (p.  583), 
and  Mt.  Corcoran  (14,095  ft.),  attain  heights  of  over  14,000  ft.  The  Yosemtte 
Valley  (p.  574)  and  its  enclosing  peaks  are,  perhaps,  the  best-known  part 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada;  but  it  abounds  throughout  in  the  grandest  mountain- 
scenery  and  offers  many  opportunities  for  the  Alpine  explorer.  There  are 
some  large  glaciers  in  the  N.  part  of  the  range. 

As  we  descend  on  tbe  Californian  side  of  tlie  range  the  scenery 
continues  to  be  very  picturesque,  while  the  change  in  vegetation  and 
the  brilliance  of  the  flowers  announce  the  mild  climate  of  the  Pacific 
Slope.  The  descent  is  very  rapid , and  the  transition  from  snow- 
wreaths  to  sub-tropical  vegetation  comes  with  startling  swiftness. 


to  San  Francisco. 


SACRAMENTO. 


87.  Route.  501 


At  places  the  line  runs  along  the  face  of  precipices,  on  ledges 
barely  wide  enough  to  accommodate  the  tracks.  Snow-sheds,  built 
in  1869  at  a cost  of  $ 2,000,000  and  covering  about  37  M.  of  the 
track,  cut  off  much  of  the  view  at  first;  but  this  has  been  greatly 
remedied,  of  late,  by  the  rebuilding  of  many  miles  of  sheds,  with 
openings  on  the  level  of  the  car- windows.  Many  traces  of  the  placer- 
mining of  the  ‘Forty-Niners’  are  visible  on  both  sides.  — 1614  M. 
Emigrant  Gap  (5225  ft.);  1619  M.  Blue  Canon  (4695  ft.);  1625  M. 
Alta  (3605  ft.);  1631  M.  Dutch  Flat  (3395  ft.).  Before  reaching 
(1643  M.)  Colfax  (2420  ft.)  we  pass  the  rocky  promontory  known 
as  ^Cape  Horn.  1661  M.  Auburn  (1360  ft.).  Orchards  and  vineyards 
are  now  numerous.  Oranges  grow  at  (1674  M.)  Newcastle  (955  ft.). 
1687  M.  Roseville  Junction  (165  ft. ; p.  582). 

1705  m.  Sacramento  (30ft.;  Golden  Eagle from  $3;  Capitol, 
R.  from  $1),  the  capital  of  California,  with  29,282  inhab.,  lies  on  the 
E.  bank  of  the  Sacramento  River,  just  below  its  confluence  with  the 
American  River.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  wide  straight  streets, 
shaded  with  trees  and  bordered  by  gardens.  It  is  an  important  rail- 
way-centre and  carries  on  an  active  trade.  The  most  conspicuous 
building  is  the  State  Capitol,  a large  and  handsome  structure  contain- 
ing a library  of  130,000  vols.  and  surrounded  by  a pleasant  park  (fine 
view  from  dome).  Other  important  edifices  are  the  Court  House,  the 
Free  Public  Library  (36,000  vols.),  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral, 
and  other  churches.  The  Crocker  Art  Gallery  contains  pictures, 
Californian  minerals,  and  a school  of  art.  The  State  Agricultural 
Society  has  a large  exhibition  building.  Fort  Sutter  Park  contains  a 
reproduction  of  the  fort  established  here  in  1840.  — A pleasant  drive 
leads  along  the  Sacramento  to  (4  M.)  Riverside. 

From  Sacramento  to  Poi'tland,  see  R.  102. 

From  Sacramento  to  Lathrop,  57  M.,  railway  in  274  hrs.  This  line 
formed  part  of  the  old  route  from  Sacramento  to  San  Francisco.  — 35  M. 
Lodi  (55ft.).  — 48  M.  Stockton  (25  ft.;  YQsemite,  from  $ 2,  R.  from  $1; 
Imperial,  from  $2),  a well-built  and  flourishing  little  city  of  17,506  inhab., 
with  large  flour-mills,  lies  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  San  Joaquin 
(‘Wahkeen’)  River.  Along  the  river-bottom  above  and  below  the  town 
are  vast  ‘truck-farms'  for  the  earliest  markets.  The  most  prominent 
building  is  the  State  Insane  Asylum,  seen  to  the  right  as  we  enter  the 
station.  From  Stockton  to  the  Calaveras  Grove,  see  below.  — At  (57  M.) 
Lathrop  we  join  the  Southern  Pacific  line  from  San  Francisco  to  the  S. 
(comp.  p.  564). 

Stockton  (see  above)  is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (30  M.)  Milton, 
whence  stage-coaches  run  in  24  hrs.  (inch  overnight  halt)  to  (50  M.)  the 
Calaveras  Grove  of  Big  Trees.  The  night  is  spent  at  Murphy''s  Gamp 
(Blitchler  Ho.,  $2).  — The  ^Calaveras  Grove  (Mammoth  Grove  Hotel)  is  the 
northernmost  of  the  Californian  groves  of  big  trees,  and  it  is  the  nearest 
to  San  Francisco.  It  is,  however,  comparatively  seldom  visited,  as  the 
Mariposa  Grove  (see  p.  576)  is  conveniently  included  in  the  usual  route 
to  the  Yosemite.  The  Sequoia  or  Wellingtonia  gigantea,  the  ‘big  tree'  of 
California,  is  found  only  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  Sierra,  while  the  Redwood 
‘Or  Sequoia  sempervirens,  belonging  to  the  same  genus,  is  confined  to  the 
Coast  Ranges  (see  p.  555).  The  Calaveras  Grove  (4750  ft.  above  the  sea) 
covers  an  area  about  1100  yds.  long  a|,nd  70  yds.  wide  and  contains  about 
100  trees  of  large  size,  besides  many  smaller  ones.  The  tallest  now  standing 


502  Route  87. 


OAKLAND. 


is  the  Keystone  State  (325  ft.  high,  45  ft.  in  girth).  The  Mother  of  the  Forest 
(denuded  of  its  hark)  is  315  ft.  high  and  has  a girth  of  61  ft.,  while  the 
prostrate  Father  of  the  Forest  measures  112  ft.  in  circumference.  Two 
other  trees  are  over  300  ft.  high  and  many  exceed  250  ft.  A house  has 
been  built  over  a stump  of  a diameter  of  24  ft.  The  bark  is  sometimes 
1-1V2  ft.  in  thickness.  — About  5 M.  to  the  S.  is  the  Stanislaus  or  South 
Grove.,  also  containing  many  fine  trees,  which  may  be  visited  on  horseback. 

Stockton  is  also  the  junction  of  the  Merced  branch  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railway  to  (34  M.)  Oakdale.,  whence  the  Sierra  Railway  runs  to 
(45  M.)  Sonora  and  (57  M.)  Tuolumne  (p.  582).  This  latter  line  affords 
one  of  the  favourite  approaches  to  the  Yosemite,  connecting  at  (35  M.) 
Chinese  with  stage-coaches  running  to  (ca.  50  M.)  the  Valley,  via  Big  Oak 
Flat  (comp.  p.  574). 

The  train  crosses  the  river  at  Sacramento  and  runs  toward  the  W., 
passing  (1718  M.)  Davis  (65  ft.)  and  reaching  at  (1745  M.)  Suisun 
no  ft.;  ‘Sooisoon’)  a swampy  district  overgrown  with  tule^  a kind 
of  reed.  To  the  S.  is  Suisun  Bay.,  with  Mt.  Diablo  (p.  553)  rising 
beyond  it.  — 1762  M.  Benicia.,  with  2751  inhab.,  a XJ.S.  Arsenal,  and 
large  wharves,  lies  on  the  N.  side  of  the  narrow  Straits  of  Cdrquinez 
(I/2  M.),  uniting  the  bays  of  Suisun  and  San  Pablo.  It  is  accessible 
for  ships  drawing  23  ft.  of  water.  This  was  the  home  of  Heenan,  the 
‘Benicia  Boy’,  and  the  forge-hammer  he  used  is  still  kept  here.  — 
The  train  crosses  the  strait  on  the  ‘Solano’,  a huge  ferry-boat,  424  ft. 
long  and  accommodating  a train  of  24  passenger-coaches.  — 1763  M. 
Port  Costa.,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  strait,  also  has  large  wharves  from 
which  wheat  is  shipped  direct  to  Europe.  — We  now  follow  the  S. 
shore  of  San  Pablo  Bay  (views  to  the  right).  1766  M.  Vallejo  Junction 
(‘Vallayho’),  the  starting-point  of  the  ferry  to  Vallejo  (see  p.  552), 
on  the  opposite  shore.  To  the  right  lies  Mare  Island  (see  p.  551). 
Farther  on  we  turn  to  the  S.  (left)  and  see  the  '^Bay  of  San  Francisco 
(p.  551)  on  the  W.  (right),  with  Mt.  Tdmalpais  (p.  552)  rising  beyond 
it.  — 1783  M.  Berkeley.,  named  in  honour  of  Bishop  Berkeley 
(p.  91),  with  the  Colleges  of  Letters  and  Science  of  the  University 
of  California.,  situated  among  trees  on  the  left. 

The  ^University  of  California,  founded  in  1868,  has  played  a very  im- 
portant part  in  tbe  educational  development  of  the  Pacific  Slope  and  will 
repay  a visit.  Its^  other  departments  are  at  San  Francisco  (see  p.  548)  and 
Mt.  Hamilton  (p.  558).  The  university  is  attended  by  about  4G00  students, 
three-fourths  of  whom  are  at  Berkeley  and  nearly  one-third  women.  Tuition 
is  free  except  in  some  of  the  professional  departments.  The  total  income 
of  the  university  amounts  to  upwards  of  $800,000.  Some  of  the  buildings 
at  Berkeley  are  handsome,  and  the  picturesque  grounds , 250  acres  in 
extent,  command  a splendid  ’'‘View  of  the  Golden  Gate  (p.  545)  and  San 
Francisco.  The  experimental  grounds  have  been  of  great  service  to  the 
farmers  of  California.  The  very  interesting  open-air  ’'Greek  Theatre.,  built 
in  1903  on  the  general  type  of  the  theatre  at  Epidaurus,  accommodates 
12,000  spectators  and  is  used  for  university  meetings,  commencement 
exercises,  and  concerts.-  The  museums,  the  library  (130,000  vols.),  the 
observatory,  and  the  laboratories  also  deserve  attention.  — The  State  Deaf 
and  Dumb  Asylum  is  also  at  Berkeley. 

1788 M.  Oakland  {Touraine,  $2Y2"^;  Metropole.,  $2^12’,  Albany., 
$2-3),  the  ‘Brooklyn’  of  San  Francisco,  is  a flourishing  city  of 
66,960  inhab.,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  E.  shore  of  the  Bay  of  San 


POCATELLO. 


88.  Route.  603 


Francisco.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  live-oaks,  which  originally 
covered  the  site  of  the  city,  many  of  them  still  to  he  seen  in  streets 
and  gardens.  Within  the  town-limits  lies  the  little  Lake  Merritt 
(boating).  Among  the  buildings  may  be  mentioned  the  Free  Library^ 
the  Board  of  Trade,  and  the  Merchants^  Exchange.  The  value  of  its 
manufactures  in  1900  was  $ 9,174,257 ; its  magnificent  harbour,  with 
15  M.  of  water-front,  has  large  ship-yards  and  coal-bunkers. 

Visitors  to  Oakland  are  recommended  to  take  the  cable-car  to  Piedmont 
Park,  in  order  to  enjoy  tbe  splendid  *View  of  San  Francisco,  the  Bay,  and 
the  Golden  Gate  from  Inspiration  Point  (especially  good  at  sunset). 

The  San  Francisco  train  skirts  the  W.  side  of  Oakland  and  runs 
out  into  San  Francisco  Bay  on  a mole  l^sM.  long,  at  the  end  of 
which  we  leave  the  train  and  enter  the  comfortable  and  capacious 
ferry-boat  which  carries  us  across  the  bay  (4M.,  in  20  min.).  In 
crossing  we  see  Goat.,  Alcatraz,  and  Angel  islands  to  the  right,  with 
the  Marin  Peninsula  beyond  them  and  the  Golden  Gate  opening  to 
the  W.  of  Alcatraz. 

1795  M.  San  Francisco,  see  p.  543. 


88.  From  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha  to  Portland. 

1803  M.  Union  Pacific  Railroad  to  (857  M.)  Granger  in  2-4-28  hrs. ; 
Oregon  Short  Line  thence  to  (1393 M.)  Huntington  in  14  hrs.;  Oregon  Rail- 
road & Navigation  Co.  tbence  to  (1803  M.)  Portland  in  18  hrs.  (through- 
fare  $50;  sleeper  $11.50).  Dining-cars  are  attached  to  the  through-trains 
(meals  d la  carte').  For  general  remarks  on  the  Union  Pacific  System  and  its 
connections,  see  p.  496. 

From  Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha  to  (857  M.)  Granger,  see  pp.  497- 
498.  — Our  train  now  runs  towards  the  N.W.,  at  first  on  a level 
and  then  gradually  descending.  Between  (940  M.)  Cokeville  (6200  ft.) 
and  (955  M.)  Pegram  we  enter  Idaho  (‘Gem  of  the  Mountains’). 
972  M.  Montpelier  (5945  ft.),  near  Bear  Lake  (left);  1003  M.  Soda 
Springs  (5780  ft.;  Idaiiha,  $ 3;  Williams  Ho.,  $ 2-3),  a favourite 
summer-resort,  with  numerous  powerful  springs. 

1071  M.  Pocatello  (4465  ft. ; Pacific,  from  $ 31/2;  Neeley  Ho.,  $ 2), 
a town  of  4046  inhab.,  in  the  Fort  Hall  Indian  Reservation,  is  the 
junction  of  lines  running  S.  to  (134  M.)  Ogden  (comp.  p.  498)  and 
(171  M.)  Salt  Lake  City  (see  p.  539),  and  N.  to  (263  M.)  Butte  and 
(351  M.)  Helena  (see  p.  473).  Circular  tickets  are  issued  by  the  Rail- 
way for  tours  from  Pocatello  to  the  Shoshone  Falls  (p.  504)  ^ the 
Yellowstone  Park  (p.  479),  Butte,  Helena  (p.  473),  etc. 

On  the  line  to  Helena,  130  M.  from  Pocatello,  isMonida  (7030  ft.),  the 
starting-point  of  the  daily  stage-line  to  the  Yellowstone  Park  (comp.  p.  481 ; 
fare  $ 14).  The  coach  starts  in  the  morning  and  stops  for  the  night  at  (65  M.) 
Dwelle's  Grayling  Inn,  near  the  W.  margin  of  the  Park.  Next  day  it  starts 
at  8 a.m.  and  runs  through  the  Firehole  Basin  (p.  484)  to  (31/2  hrs. ; 25  M.) 
the  Fountain  Hotel  (p.  484).  The  route  traverses  Centennial  Valley,  passes 
Red  Rock  Lakes,  crosses  the  Divide  by  the  Red  Rock  Pass,  near  Lake  Henry 
ISinS  9'  ’ Tetons,  p.  487),  and  again  at  the  Targhe  or  Tyghee  Pass 

C1O6O  ft.),  and  descends  along  the  Madison  PJver  (p.  484). 


504  Route  88. 


BOISE  CITY.  From  Council  Bluffs 

Beyond  Pocatello  the  train  traverses  the  Great  Snake  River  Lava 
Fields^  overgrown  with  sage-brush  and  greasewood;  the  snow- clad 
Rocky  Mts.  bound  the  distant  horizon  on  the  right.  We  cross  the 
river  at  (1097  M.)  American  Falls  Station  (4340  ft.)  by  a bridge, 
600  ft.  long,  affording  a good  view  of  the  *Falls.  To  the  N.  rise  the 
Three  Buttes  of  Lost  River  and  (farther  to  the  W.)  the  Saw-Tooth 
Mts.  In  front,  to  the  left,  appear  the  snow  peaks  of  the  Washoe 
Range.  — 1179  M.  Shoshone  (3970  ft. ; pron.  Sho-sho-ny),  the  start- 
ing-point for  the  stage  to  the  (25  M.)  Shoshone  Falls  (3^/2  hrs.). 

The  road  to  the  falls  runs  to  the  S.  across  a sage-brush  plain,  passes 
some  lava  ridges,  and  suddenly  reaches  the  deep  ravine  of  the  Snake 
River.,  1200  ft.  below  it.  We  cross  the  river  by  a substantial  ferry  and 
soon  reach  the  small  Shoshone  Falls  Hotel.  The  ’^Great  Shoshone  Falls, 
with  a breadth  of  950  ft.,  fall  from  a height  of  210  ft.  and  deserA'^edly 
rank  with  the  waterfalls  of  the  Yosemite  or  the  Yellowstone.  Just 
above  the  main  cataract  is  the  Bridal  Veil  Fall  (80  ft.),  and  3 M.  higher 
are  the  Twin  Falls  (180  ft.).  An  area  of,  perhaps,  250,000  sq.  M.  in  the 
states  of  Washington , Oregon,  California,  and  Idaho  is  covered  by  the 
so-called  ‘Columbia  Lava’,  a deposit  i/z-iJU.  in  thickness.  Through  this 
the  Snake  River  has  carved  its  mighty  canon,  at  places  4000  ft.  deep,  and 
surpassed  in  grandeur  by  that  of  the  Colorado  River  alone  (p.  522).  To- 
wards the  bottom  of  the  canon  may  be  seen  the  ancient  crystalline  form- 
ations of  the  mountains  covered  by  the  lava-sheet.  The  soil  of  this  lava 
district  is  peculiarly  valuable  for  wheat-growing,  and  it  is  nearly  all  used 
for  this  purpose.  About  5 M.  below  the  falls,  a little  to  the  N.  of  the  river, 
are  the  picturesque  Blue  Lakes.,  where  boating  and  fishing  may  be  enjoyed. 

A branch-line  runs  to  the  N.  from  Shoshone  to  (57  M.)  .STm/ey  (5340  ft.) 
and  (TO  M.)  Ketchum  (5820  ft.).  The  Hailey  Hot  Springs  (hotel),  V/2  M. 
from  the  station  (temp.  150°),  are  efficacious  in  rheumatism , dyspepsia, 
and  other  ailments.  Near  Ketchum  are  the  Guyer  Hot  Springs  (hotel). 

Near  (1214  M.)  Ticeska  tbe  railway  again  reaches  the  Snake  River , 
the  right  bank  of  which  we  now  skirt  more  or  less  closely.  1231  M. 
Glenn's  Ferry  (2565  ft.).  Level  plains  give  place  to  small  rolling 
hills  and  bluffs,  but  the  scenery  continues  to  be  uninteresting. 
1316  M.  Nampa  (2490ft.)  is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (20 M.) 
Boise  City  (2885  ft.;  Capitol  Hotels  Overland  Hotel.,  $2-3),  the 
capital  of  Idaho,  a busy  little  mining  city,  with  5957  inhabitants.  — 
1325  M.  Caldwell  (2370  ft.).  Between  (1340  M.)  Parma  and  (1398  M.) 
Huntington  we  cross  the  Snake  River  thrice,  the  last  crossing  bring- 
ing ns  into  Oregon  (p.  583).  1375  M.  Weiser  (2120  ft.)  is  the  gate- 
way of  the  district  known  as  the  ^ Seven  Devils' .,  named,  apparently, 
from  the  hills  seen  to  the  right.  Farther  on  the  Snake  River  flows 
through  a picturesque  canon  (*yiew  to  right  from  the  bridge). 

At  (1393  M.)  Huntington  (2110  ft. ; Union  Pacific  Hotel.,  from 
$2)  we  reach  the  line  of  the  Oregon  Railroad  Navigation  Co.  and 
change  from  ‘Mountain’  to  ‘Pacific’  time  (1  hr.  slower ; see  p.  xviii). 
We  now  leave  the  Snake  River  and  ascend  the  picturesque  *Burnt 
River  Valley.,  crossing  the  stream  repeatedly  and  threading  rock- 
cuttings  and  tunnels.  Near  (1418  M.)  Durkee  we  leave  the  Burnt  River. 
Beyond  (1445  M.)  Baker  City  (3440  ft.)  we  ascend  across  the  Blue 
Mts.  and  then  descend  rapidly,  passing  several  snow-sheds,  into  the 
fertile  and  beautiful  ^Grande  Eonde  Valley,  watered  by  the  river  of 


to  Portland. 


DALLES. 


88.  Route.  505 


that  name.  1485  M.  Union  (2720  ft.);  1497  M.  La  Grande  (2785  ft.) ; 
1516  M.  Kamela  (2910  ft.);  1522  M.  Meacham  (*Rail.  Restaurant), 
1530  M.  Huron  (2918  ft.);  1572  M.  Pendleton  (1070ft.),  the  junc- 
tion of  a branch-line  to  (47  M.)  Walla  Walla  (p.  475)  and  (251  M.) 
Spokane;  1615  M.  Umatilla  (300  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  a branch- 
line to  (93  M.)  Grange  City  and  (246  M.)  Spokane  (p.  475).  Our  line 
is  here  joined  by  the  direct  Portland  trains  of  the  G.  N.  R.  R.  and  the 
N.P.R.  R.  (comp.  pp.  467,  475).  Near  (1640  M.)  Castle  Pock  (250  ft.) 
the  train  reaches  the  wide  Columbia  River  (700-800 yds.  across),  the 
left  bank  of  which  we  now  follow  all  the  way  to  Portland.  The  object 
of  the  shields  and  barricades  noticed  here  is  to  preveint  the  fine 
loose  sand  bordering  the  river,  from  accumulating  on  the  tracks, 
by  which  trains  have  been  derailed.  1660  M.  Arlington  (230  ft.); 
1691  M.  Grant's  (180  ft.),  with  fine  basaltic  cliffs.  Farther  on  we 
cross  the  Des  Chutes  River  (view  to  left).  — 1702  M.  Celilo  lies  at 
the  beginning  of  the  narrow  and  rapid  stretch  of  the  river  known  as 
the  ^Dalles  of  the  Columbia,  extending  to  Dalles  (see  below). 

The  name  (derived  from  the  sheets  of  lava  well  exhibited  on  or  near 
the  river  here)  is  sometimes  confined  to  the  gorge  just  above  Dalles,  where 
the  river  is  compressed  for  about  2^2  M.  into  a channel  only  130  ft.  wide. 
The  river-valley  here  seems  to  have  been  obstructed  during  a recent  geolog- 
ical period  by  a lava-flow,  through  which  it  has  eroded  this  extraordinary 
channel.  — As  we  approach  Dalles  we  have  a good  view  of  Mt.  Hood  (see 
below),  on  the  left  front. 

1714  M.  Dalles  (105  ft. ; Umatilla.,  $2)  is  a small  place  of  3542 
inhab.,  with  a considerable  trade  and  some  manufactures.  It  stands 
at  the  head  of  the  finest  scenery  of  the  Lower  Columbia,  which  pierces 
the  Cascade  Mts.  a little  lower  down. 

Passenger-steamers  ply  regularly  between  this  point  and  Portland,  and 
the  traveller  is  advised  to  perform  the  rest  of  the  journey  by  water 
(110  M.),  as  the  scenery  is  seen  to  the  best  advantage  from  the  deck  of 
the  steamer.  The  large  ‘fish-wheels'  are  interesting.  Comp.  p.  585. 

The  scenery  for  the  remainder  of  the  journey  to  Portland  is  very 
grand,  including  beautiful  river-reaches,  sharp  rocks  and  crags, pleas- 
ant green  straths,  noble  trees,  romantic  waterfalls,  and  lofty  moun- 
tains. Beyond  (1723  Rowena  we  see  (to  the  right)  the  island  of 
Memaloose,  the  ancient  burial-place  of  the  Chinook  Indians,  with  a 
tall  shaft  marking  the  grave  of  Victor  Trevet,  a pioneer  and  friend 
of  the  Indians.  Beyond  (1730  M.)  Hosier  (100  ft.)  the  railway  and 
river  pass  through  the  gorge  proper  of  the  Cascade  Mts.  (p.  476). 
— 1737  M.  Hood  River  (Country  Club  Inn). 

From  this  station  stages  run  in  summer  (return-fare  $ 7.50)  to  (27  M.) 
Cloud  Cap  Inn  (6000  ft.),  situated  at  the  foot  of  Ihe  glaciers  on  the  N.  side 
of  Mt.  Hood  (11,225  ft.;  comp.  p.  586)  and  affording  a grand  *View.  About 
5 min,  from  the  inn  is  the  fine  "Eliot  Glacier.,  and  excursions  may  be  made 
to  many  other  glaciers  and  cascades.  The  ascent  to  the  top  of  (4  M.)  Mt. 
Hood  takes  6-10  hrs.  (there  and  back)  and  is  somewhat  trying,  though 
often  made  by  ladies.  The  last  900  ft.  are  facilitated  by  a rope-line,  and 
alpenstocks  are  also  desirable.  The  *View  from  the  top  embraces  the  v^hole 
of  the  Cascade  Range,  including  the  snow-peaks  St.  Helens,  Adams,  Rainier, 
and  (sometimes)  Baker  to  the  N.,  and  Jefferson,  the  Three  Sisters,  Diamond 
Peak,  and  Pitt  to  the  S.  The  Blue  Mts.,  on  the  E.,  and  the  Pacific  Ocean, 


506  Route  89. 


FORT  MADISON. 


on  the  W.,  are  sometimes  seen.  The  view  also  includes  the  Coast  Range 
and  the  valleys  of  the  Columbia  and  Willamette.  Mt.  Shasta,  250  M.  to 
the  S.,  is  said  to  be  visible  with  a good  glass.  The  ascent  may  also  be 
made  on  the  S.  side  (carr.  from  Portland,  ca.  60  M.). 

From  Hood  River  we  may  also  drive  to  (27  M.)  Trout  Lake  (good  fish- 
ing), near  which  are  fine  ice  and  lava  caves.  From  the  lake  a trail  leads 
to  (40  M.)  Mt.  Adams  (12,470  ft.) , the  ascent  of  which  (from  and  to  the 
timber-line)  takes  8-l2  hrs.  The  glaciers  of  Mt.  Adams  are  very  fine  and 
have  been  little  explored. 

At  (1757  M.)  Cascade  Locks  tlie  river  descends  25  ft.  in  a series 
of  picturesque  rapids. 

To  avoid  this  obstruction  the  U.  S.  Government  has  constructed  a 
canal  (V4  M.  long)  and  two  locks  on  the  S.  or  Oregon  shore,  at  a cost  of 
about  $4,000,000.  The  locks  are  the  largest  in  the  country  after  those 
at  Sault-Ste-Marie  (p.  374). 

Among  tlie  numerous  small  waterfalls  on  tlie  left  of  the  line 
between  (1761  M.)  Bonneville  and  (1776  M.)  Latourelle.,  the  most 
picturesque  are  the  Horse  Tail.,  the  Oneonta  (at  the  head  of  its 
narrow  gorge),  the  * Multnomah  (605  ft.  high),  the  Bridal  Veil,  and 
the  Latourelle.  The  towering  crags  passed  above  or  below  here  in- 
clude Castle  Rock  (rising  1000  ft.  on  the  N.  side  of  the  river),  Cape 
Horn  (500  ft.  high),  the  * Pillars  of  Hercules,  forming  a noble  gate- 
way for  the  railroad,  and  Rooster  Rock  (in  the  river).  Beyond 
(1801  M.)  East  Portland  and  (1802  M.)  Albina  the  train  crosses  the 
Willamette  (p.  584),  a broad  tributary  of  the  Columbia.  A good  view 
is  obtained  of  Mts.  Hood  and  St.  Helens  to  the  S.  and  Mts.  Adams 
and  Rainier  to  the  N. 

1803  M.  Portland  (35  ft.),  see  p.  584. 


89.  From  Chicago  to  Kansas  City. 

a.  ViS,  Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  Railway. 

458  M.  Railway  in  I2V2-I4V2  l^rs.  (fare  $12.50;  sleeper  $2.50;  tourist 
car  $ 1.25).  This  line  forms  part  of  the  through  Santa  F4  Route  from  Chicago 
to  California  (comp.  p.  517). 

From  Chicago  (Dearborn  Station)  to  (41 M.)  Joliet  this  line  follows 
practically  the  same  route  as  that  described  at  p.  493.  — Beyond 
(54  M.)  Blodgett  we  cross  the  Kankakee.  — ^ 94  M.  Streator  (14,079 
inhab.).  At  (100  M.)  Ancona  the  line  forks,  the  left  branch  running 
to  St.  Louis  (p.  389).  At  (134  M.)  Chillicothe  (Rail.  Restaurant)  we 
cross  the  Illinois  River  and  the  Rock  Island  Railway.  — 182  M. 
Galesburg  (Rail.  Restaurant),  an  important  railway  - centre  (comp, 
p.  494).  — At  (229  M.)  Dallas  we  reach  the  Mississippi,  which  we 
cross  at  (236  M.)  East  Fort  Madison.  — 237  M.  Fort  Madison  (Ani/tcs, 
Metropolitan,  $2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, in (p.  494),  IS  a thriving  little  city  with  (1900)  9278  inhab. 

The  line  bends  to  the  S.W.  and  near  (257  M.)  Dumas  crosses  the  Des 
Moines  River  and  enters  Missouri  (p.  405).  — 352  M.  Marceline  (Rail. 
Restaurant).  From  (416  M.)  Lexington  Junction  a branch-line  runs  1 
to  St.  Joseph  (p.  509)  and  Atchison  (p.  517).  Our  line  now  crosses  1 
the  Missouri.  457  M.  Grand  Avenue  (Kansas  City).  J 


KANSAS  CITY. 


89.  Route.  507 


458  M.  Kansas  City.  — Hotels:  Coates,  $ 21/2-5,  R.  from  $ "'Mid- 
land, $ 21/2-5,  R.  $ I-31/25  Baltimore,  R.  $ 11/2-5;  Savoy,  $ 21/2-872,  R.  $ 1- 
11/2;  Brunswick,  Victoria,  Centropolis,  $ 2-2i/2.  — Brit.  Vice-Consul,  Mr. 
Frank  8.  Young. 

Kansas  City.,  the  second  city  of  Missouri,  with  (1900)  163,752 
inhah.,  lies  on  the  S.  hank  of  the  Missouri,  just  helow  the  influx  of 
the  Kansas  River.  It  had  only  3500  inhah.  in  1865,  hut  is  now  an 
important  industrial,  commercial,  and  railway  centre  (value  of  manu- 
factures in  1900,  $ 36,527,392).  Among  the  most  prominent  buildings 
are  the  Court  House.,  the  Board  of  Trade.,  the  Custom  House,  the  Grand 
Central  Depot,  and  the  Winner  Building.  The  Missouri  is  crossed 
here  hy  three  fine  bridges.  The  Troost,  Fairmount,  and  Washington 
Parks  are  the  finest  features  of  the  system  of  parks  and  boulevards. 

On  the  W.,  Kansas  City  (Mo.)  is  adjoined  hy  Kansas  City,  Kansas 
(AUmon,  Armourdale,  Metropolitan,  Garmo  Ho.,  $2),  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kansas  River,  the  largest  city  in  Kansas,  with  51,418  inhah.  and  the  second- 
largest  stock-yards  and  packing-houses  (Armour,  etc.)  in  the  country  (value 
of  products  in  19()0,  $ 82,768,943). 

From  Kansas  City  to  (507  M.)  Fort  Worth,  (517  M.)  Dallas,  (834  M.) 
Houston,  and  (884  M.)  Galveston,  Missouri,  Kansas,  and  Texas  Railway  in 
193/4  hrs.,  20  hrs.,  34hrs.,  and  36  hrs.  This  railway  traverses  Indian  Ter- 
ritory and  affords  a direct  route  to  points  in  Texas,  hut  is  of  no  great 
interest  to  the  tourist.  Its  extreme  N.  terminus  is  Hannibal  (p.  508),  and 
passengers  from  St.  Louis  may  join  it  at  Sedalia  (p.  510).  — Beyond  (160  M.) 
Chetopa  we  enter  Indian  Territory  (see  p.  518).  189  M.  Vinita ; 238  M.  Wagoner. 
— 254  M.  Muskogee  (Station  Hotel),  with  (1900)  4254  inhah.,  is  the  seat  of 
the  U.  S.  Indian  Agency  for  the  Five  Tribes  (p.  518),  of  an  Indian  University, 
and  of  some  Indian  schools.  Visits  may  be  made  hence  to  Tahlequah  and 
Okmulgee,  two  centres  of  Indian  life.  — At  (316  M.)  Soath  McAlester  (Rail. 
Restaurant)  we  cross  a railway  from  Memphis  to  Oklahoma  518).  — 
360  M,  Atoka,  one  of  the  chief  cities  of  the  Choctaw  Nation  (p.  518),  is  the 
junction  of  a line  to  (14  M.)  Coalgate,  a mining  town  with  2614  inhah.,  and 
(133  M.)  Oklahoma  (p,  518).  [From  Coalgate  we  may  go  hy  train  to  Tisho- 
mingo (Fisher  Hotel)  and  Ardmore  (5681  inhah.),  two  of  the  chief  cities  of 
the  Chikasaws  (p.  518).]  At  (411  M.)  Denison,  a railway- centre  with  11,807 
inhah.,  we  enter  Texas  (p.  589).  The  line  forks  here,  one  branch  running  to 
(507  M.)  Fort  Worth  (p.  595),  the  other  to  (517  M.)  Dallas  (p.  595).  The  latter 
is  continued  to  (834  M.)  Houston  (p.  592)  and  (884  M.)  Galveston  (p.  593). 

b.  Vifi  Chicago  and  Alton  Railroad. 

489  M.  Railway  in  15  hrs.  (fares  as  above).  Dining-cars. 

From  Chicago  to  (126  M.)  Bloomington,  see  R.  55h.  The  Kansas 
City  line  diverges  to  the  right  from  that  to  St.  Louis.  — 1711/2  M. 
Mason  City.  — 216  M.  Jacksonville  (620  ft.;  Dunlap  Ho.,  Pacific, 
from  $2),  a city  of  15,078  inhah.,  with  two  flourishing  colleges  and 
several  State  asylums.  — 237  M.  Roodhouse,  the  junction  of  a line 
to  Godfrey  (p.  377).  Beyond  (243  M.)  Drake  we  cross  the  Illinois 
River,  and  beyond  (266  M.)  Pleasant  Hill  we  cross  the  Mississippi 
and  enter  Missouri  (p.  405).  — 302  M.  Vandalia.  Near  (326  M.) 
Mexico  (800  ft.),  the  junction  of  a line  to  Jefferson  City  (p.  610),  is 
Florida,  the  birthplace  of  Mark  Twain  (Samuel  L.  Clemens ; h.  1835). 
Beyond  (381  M.)  Glasgow  (630  ft.)  we  cross  the  Missouri.  434  M. 
Higginsville  (645  ft.);  487  M.  Grand  Avenue  (see  p.  506). 

489  M.  Kansas  City,  see  above. 


508  Route  89. 


HANNIBAL. 


From  Chicago 


c.  Vi&  Wabash  Kailroad. 

512  M.  Railway  in  22  hrs.  (fares  as  above).  Dining-cars. 

From  Chicago  (Dearborn  Station)  to  (173  M.)  Decatur^  where  our 
line  diverges  from  that  to  St.  Louis  (p.  389),  see  R.  55  c.  — The  next 
important  station  is  (213  M.)  Springfield  (p.  377).  246  M.  Jack- 
sonville (p.  507).  At  (267  M.)  Naples  we  cross  the  Illinois  River. 
Beyond  (301  M.)  Kinderhook  we  cross  the  Mississippi  and  reach 
(313  M.)  Hannibal  (470  ft. ; Union  Depot  Hotel.  $ 2-21/27 50  c. ; 
Windsor^  Kettering.,  $2),  in  a river-port  and  railway- centre 

(comp.  pp.  405,  507),  with  12,780  inhab.,  a brisk  trade  in  tobacco, 
timber,  and  farm-produce,  and  numerous  manufactories.  About  1 M. 
to  the  S.  is  the  Hannibal  Cave.,  immortalized  in  ‘Tom  Sawyer’,  which 
runs  for  miles  under  the  bluffs  and  the  Mississippi  itself.  — From 
(383  M.)  Moberly  (880  ft. ; 8012  inhab.)  a branch-line  runs  to  (57  M.) 
Kirksville.,  with  the  original  American  School  of  Osteopathy  (700 
students).  422  M.  Brunswick  (630  ft.).  We  now  have  a view  of  the 
Missouri  to  the  left.  446  M.  Carrollton;  470  M.  Lexington  Junction 
(p.  506).  We  skirt  the  N.  bJnk  of  the  Missouri  and  cross  it  at  (510  M.) 
Harlem. 

512  M.  Kansas  City,  see  p.  507. 

d.  Vi^  Chicago,  Rock  Island,  and  Pacific  Railway. 

519  M.  Railway  in  I52/4  krs.  (fares  as  above).  Dining-cars  (meals  a la 
carte). 

From  Chicago  to  (183  M.)  Davenport^  see  R.  85  c.  Our  line  here 
diverges  to  the  left  from  the  Omaha  line  and  runs  towards  the  S.W. 
210  M.  Muscatine  (545  ft.),  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Mississippi.,  is  a 
river-port  of  some  importance  (lumber,  etc.;  comp.  p.  405).  At 
(231  M.)  Columbus  Junction  (585  ft.)  we  cross  the  Red  Cedar  River, 
and  at  (294  M.)  Eldon  the  Des  Moines  River.  At  (378  M.)  Lineville 
we  enter  Missouri  (p,  405).  449  M.  Altamont,  the  junction  of  a line 
to  St.  Joseph  (see  p.  509).  At  (463  M.)  Cameron  Junction  we  diverge 
to  the  left  from  the  line  to  Leavenworth  (p.  512)  and  Atchison  (p.  517). 
493  M.  Kearney  (635  ft.);  518  M.  Harlem  (see  above). 

519  M.  Kansas  City,  see  p.  607. 

e.  Vi^  Chicago  Great  Western  Railway. 

597  M.  Railway  in  21-24  hrs.  (fares  as  above).  Dining-cars. 

From  Chicago  to  (240  M.)  Oelwein,  where  we  diverge  to  the  left 
(S.)  from  the  line  to  Minneapolis  and  St.  Paul,  see  p.  365.  266  M. 
Waterloo  (Irving,  from  $2;  Logan,  $21/4-21/2)1  ^ busy  little  town 
v/ith  12,580  inhab.  and  varied  industries.  314  M.  Marshalltown.  — 
372  M.  Des  Moines,  see  p.  494.  — At  (421  M.)  Afton  Junction  we 
intersect  the  Burlington  and  Quincy  Railroad.  Beyond  (463  M.) 
Blockton  we  enter  Missouri  (p.  405).  491  M.  Conception,  the  junction 
of  a line  to  Omaha  (p.  492). 


to  Kansas  City, 


QUINCY. 


89.  Route.  509 


528  M.  St.  Joseph  (^Metropole^  $ 2V2"^;  Charles^  $ 2-3),  a city 
of  102,979  inhah.,  on  the  E.  hank  of  the  Missouri^  is  an  important 
railway-centre  and  has  immense  stock-yards, numerous  factories  (value 
of  products  in  1900,  $31,690,736),  and  a large  trade.  The  City  Hall 
is  a handsome  building.  — The  train  now  descends  on  the  E.  bank 
of  the  Missouri.  548  M.  Dearborn^  the  junction  for  Atchison  (p.  506), 
on  the  other  side  of  the  river;  566  M.  Leavenworth  (p.  512). 

597  M.  Kansas  City,  see  p.  507. 

f.  Vil.  Burlington  Route. 

489  M.  Chicago,  Burlington,  and  Quincy  Railroad  in  14^/4  brs.  . 
(fares,  etc.,  as  above). 

From  Chicago  to  (163  M.)  Galesburg^  see  R.  85  d.  Our  lin. 
diverges  from  that  to  Omaha  (p.  494)  and  runs  towards  the  S.  192  Me 
Bushnell;  241  M.  Camp  Point. 

263  M.  Quincy  (^Newcomb ^ $2-3^2?  Tremont  Ho..,  $2-3),  the 
third  city  of  Illinois,  with  36,252  inhab.,  lies  on  a high  bluff  on 
the  E.  bank  of  the  Mississippi.  It  carries  on  a brisk  trade,  and  its 
manufactures  in  1900  were  valued  at  $9,234,988.  — 267  M.  West 
Quincy.,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  is  in  Missouri  (p.405).  We 
now  follow  the  tracks  of  thQ  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph  Railroad.  278  M. 
Palmyra  Junction.,  for  the  line  to  (15  M.)  Hannibal  (p.  508);  333  M. 
Macon;  393  M.  Chillicothe.  At  (435  M.)  Cameron  the  line  forks,  one 
branch  leading  to  St.  Joseph  (see  above).  Our  line  runs  to  the  S. 
by  the  route  described  above. 

489  M.  Kansas  City,  see  p.  507. 

g.  Vi§.  Chicago,  Milwaukee,  and  St.  Paul  Railway. 

498  M.  Railway  in  143/4-15  brs.  (fares,  etc.,  as  above). 

From  Chicago  to  (138  M.)  Savanna.,  see  R.  85  a.  Our  line  here 
diverges  to  the  left  (S.)  from  that  to  Omaha  (p.  491).  145  M.  Fulton; 
178  m.  Moline;  183  M.  Rods  Island  (p.  493);  186  M.  Davenport 
(p.  494);  210  M.  Muscatine  (p.  508).  At  (292  M.)  Ottumwa  (p.  495) 
we  cross  the  Des  Moines  River.  Beyond  (348  M.)  Sewal  we  enter  Mis- 
souri (p.  405).  412  m.  Chillicothe;  460  M.  Lawson.,  the  junction  for 
St.  Joseph  (see  above);  465  M.  Excelsior  Springs  (The  Elms,  $3). 

498  M.  Kansas  City,  see  p.  507. 

90.  From  St.  Louis  to  Kansas  City  and  Denver. 

1041  M.  Missouri  Pacific  Railway  to  (283  M.)  Kansas  City  in  7-10  brs. 
(fare  $7.50^  sleeper  $2);  tbence  to  (1041  M.)  Denver  in  27  brs.  (tbrougb- 
fare  $ 25.65  ^ sleeper  $5.50). 

Kansas  City  may  also  be  reached  from  St.  Louis  by  tbe  Wahash  R.  R. 
(277  M.),  tbe  Chicago  and  Alton  R.  R.  (323  M.),  and  tbe  Chicago.,  Burlington^ 
and  Quincy  R.  R.  (337  M.);  while  from  Kansas  City  to  Denver  the  tourist 
may  also  travel  by  tbe  Atchison.,  Topeka.,  and  Santa  F&  Railway  (752  M.),  tbe 
Union  Pacific  Railway  (639  M.;  see  R.  92  a),  tbe  Chicago.,  Rock  Island^  and 
Pacific  Railway  (633  M.),  and  tbe  C.  B.  & Q.  R.  R.  (654  M.).  Over  all  these 
routes  run  through-cars  for  various  large  Western  cities. 


510  Route  90. 


SEDALIA. 


8t.  Louis , see  p.  389.  At  (45  M.)  Lahadie  (600  ft.)  we  reach 
the  Missouri  River ^ which  flows  on  our  right  for  the  next  80  M.  — 
125  M.  Jefferson  City  (625ft.;  Madison  Ho.,  $2-3;  Monroe  Ho., 
$2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  the  capital  of  Missouri,  is  a prosperous 
place  of  9664  inhahitants.  The  State  Capitol,  built  in  1858-60, 
was  enlarged  in  1887-88.  — A little  farther  on  we  leave  the  river. 
188  M.  Sedalia  (890  ft.;  Huckins,  $2-21/25  The  Elks,  from  $2)  is  a 
busy  industrial  city  of  15,231  inhabitants. 

The  line  forks  at  Sedalia,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Kansas  City  via 
Pleasant  Hill  (see  below),  while  the  right  branch  runs  via  (56  M.)  Lexington 
(735  ft.),  a place  of  4190  inhab.,'  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Missouri. 

At  (249  M.)  Pleasant  Hill  the  line  forks  again. 

The  left  branch,  which  affords  an  alternative  route  to  Pueblo  and 
Denver  (1064  M.  from  St.  Louis),  runs  via  Fort  Scott,  El  Dorado,  and 
Wichita  (p.  518),  joining  the  route  described  below  at  Oeneseo  from 

St.  Louis). 

We  follow  the  right  branch.  273  M.  Independence. 

283  M.  Kansas  City,  see  p.  507. 

Our  line  now  runs  towards  the  S. , entering  Kansas  at  (310  M.j 
Newington.  At  (344  M.)  Ossawatomie  (4191  inhab.;  Rail.  Restau- 
rant), the  Kansas  home  of  John  Brown  (monument),  we  turn  to  the 
right  (W.).  365  M.  Ottawa  (900  ft.;  Marsh,  Occidental,  $ 1) , a 

summer-resort  with  6934  inhab.;  379  M.  Lomax,  the  junction  of  a 
line  to  (39  M.)  Topeka  (p.  512) ; 397  M.  Osage  City  (1075  ft. ; 2792  in- 
hab.); 435  M.  Council  Grove  (1240  ft.;  2265  inhab.).  — From 
(488  M.)  Gypsum  City  (Rail.  Restaurant)  a loop-line  runs  to  (17  M.) 
Salina  (6074  inhab.)  and  back  to  (42  M.)  Marquette  (see  below).  — 
531  M.  Marquette.  At  (550  M.)  GeneseowQ  are  joined  by  the  line  from 
Pleasant  Hill  mentioned  above.  We  are  now  ascending  the  basin  of  the 
Arkansas  River,  which,  however,  flows  far  to  the  S.  of  the  railway. 
At  (584  M.)  Hoisington  we  change  from  ‘Central’  to  ‘Mountain’  time 
(1  hr.  slower;  p.  xviii).  641  M.  Brownell;  707  M.  Scott  City;  756  M. 
Horace.  At  (771  M.)  Towner  we  enter  Colorado  (p.  512).  Beyond 
(791  M.)  Brandon  we  cross  Big  Sandy  Creek.  846  M.  Arlington; 
901  M.  Boone. 

923  M.  Pueblo,  see  p.  532.  — Beyond  Pueblo  we  follow  the  line 
of  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  R.  R.  (see  R.  94  a). 

1041  M.  Denver,  see  p.  513. 


91.  From  St.  Louis  to  Texarkana. 

490  M.  St.  Louis,  Iron  Mountain,  and  Southern  Railway  in  16-22  hrs. 
(fare  $14.80,  sleeper  $3.50).  Through-carriages  run  by  this  line  to  Arkansas 
Hot  Springs,  Fort  Worth,  San  Antonio,  Laredo,  Dallas,  Houston,  Galveston, 
and  El  Paso  (for  Los  Angeles  and  San  Francisco  via  Texas  Pacific  Railway). 

St.  Louis,  see  p.  389.  The  line  runs  to  the  S.  along  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Mississippi  as  far  as  (26  M.)  Riverside.  It  then  leaves  the  river 
and  runs  to  the  S.W.  through  the  great  mineral  district  of  E.  Mis- 
souri. From  (61  M.)  Mineral  Point  (860  ft.)  a branch-line  runs  to 


LITTLE  ROCK. 


91.  Eoute.  511 


(4  M.)  Potosij  with  several  lead-mines.  At  (75  M.)  Bismarck  (1025  ft. ; 
Rail.  Restaurant)  the  railway  forks,  the  left  branch  leading  to  Columbus 
(Ky. ; p.  406),  while  the  Texas  line  runs  nearly  due  S.  About  6 M. 
farther  on  the  famous  Iron  Mt.  (1075  ft.)  is  seen  to  the  left. 

This  is  an  irregular  hill,  consisting  mainly  of  porphyry,  intersected 
by  numerous  mineral  veins  and  capped  with  a deposit  of  specular  iron 
ore,  6-30  ft.  thick  and  yielding  nearly  70  per  cent  of  pure  iron.  The 
amount  of  mineral  already  taken  from  this  hill  exceeds  five  million  tons. 

Pilot  Knob  (1015  ft.),  seen  on  the  same  side,  6 M.  farther  on, 
also  contains  a wonderful  bed  of  iron  ore,  12-30  ft.  thick.  88  M. 
Ironton  (910  ft.)  uses  the  fine  magnetic  ore  of  Shepherd  Mt.^  which 
is  free  from  phosphorus  and  sulphur.  The  line  now  passes  through 
the  charming  Valley  of  Arcadia  and  then  intersects  the  Ozark  Mts. 
(good  views).  166  M.  Poplar  Bluff  the  junction  of  a line  to  (71  M.) 
Bird's  Pointy  opposite  Cairo  (p.  402).  Beyond  (181  M.)  Neelyville 
(305  ft.)  we  enter  Arkansas  (‘Bear  State’;  pron.  ‘Arkansaw’).  At 
(198  M.)  Knobel  (270  ft.)  the  through-carriages  to  Memphis  (p.  401) 
diverge  to  the  left.  224  M.  Walnut  Ridge  (Rail.  Restaurant).  At 
(262  M.')Newport  (230  ft.)  we  cross  the  White  River  (p.  406).  288  M. 
Bald  Knob^  the  junction  of  a line  to  (94  M.)  Memphis  (p.  401). 

345  M.  Little  Rock  (260  ft.;  Capitol,  $21/2-4:;  Pratt,  $21/2; 
Oleason,  from  $21/2;  R(^d.  Restaurant),  the  capital  and  largest  city 
of  Arkansas,  with  (1900)  38,307  inhab.,  is  well  situated  on  the  wide 
Arkansas  River  and  carries  on  a large  trade  in  cotton  and  other  goods 
both  by  railway  and  steamer.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  many  of 
its  streets  are  pleasantly  shaded  by  magnolias.  The  principal  buildings 
include  the  State  House,  the  U.  S.  Court  House,  the  County  Court 
House,  the  State  Insane  Asylum,  the  Deaf-Mute  Institute,  the  School 
for  the  Blind,  the  Post  Office,  the  Board  of  Trade  Building,  Little 
Rock  University,  and  the  Medical  Department  of  Arkansas  Industrial 
University.  Railways  radiate  hence  in  all  directions. 

388  M.  Malvern  (280  ft. ; Commercial,  $ 2)  is  the  junction  of  a 
branch-line  to  (25  M.)  the  famous  Arkansas  Hot  Springs. 

The  town  of  Hot  Springs,  Arkansas  (425  ft. ; '^Arlington,  from  $ 3^  East- 
man, from  $3^  Park,  $3-6*,  Majestic,  from  $3;  Waverly,  $2-372;  Great 
Northern,  E,.  $1-3;  Waukesha,  $272-372;  Imperial,  small,  well  spoken  of,  $2), 
with  (1900)  9973  inhab.,  is  situated  in  a narrow  gorge  between  Hot  Springs  Mt. 
and  West  Mt.,  in  a spur  of  the  Ozark  Mts.,  and  has  become  one  of  the  most 
frequented  health  and  pleasure  resorts  in  America.  The  wide  main  street  is 
flanked  on  one  side  with  hotels  and  shops  and  on  the  other  with  a row  of 
handsome  bath-houses.  The  Springs,  of  which  there  are  upwards  of  70, 
rise  on  the  W.  slope  of  Hot  Springs  Mt. , above  the  town,  vary  in  tem- 
perature from  76°  to  158°  Fahr.,  and  discharge  daily  about  500,000  gallons 
of  clear,  tasteless,  and  odourless  water.  They  are  used  both  internally  and 
externally,  and  are  beneficial  in  rheumatism,  gout,  neuralgia,  and  affections 
of  the  skin  and  urinary  organs.  They  contain  a little  silica  and  carbonate 
of  lime^  but  the  efficacy  of  the  water  is  ascribed  mainly  to  its  heat  and 
purity.  The  price  for  a single  bath  is  15-50  c. , for  21  baths  $ 4-10.  The 
ground  on  which  the  springs  rise  is  the  property  of  the  U.  S.  Government, 
and  a large  Army  and  Navy  Hospital  has  been  erected  here  for  the  use  ot 
officers,  soldiers,  and  sailors.  Among  the  numerous  pleasant  points  for 
walks,  rides,  and  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Hot  Springs  are  the  Valley 
of  the  Ouichita,  the  Ostrich  Farm,  Oulpha  Gorge,  HelVs  Half  Acre,  Happy 


512  Route  92. 


TOPEKA. 


Hollow,  Ball  Baxjou,  Crystal  Mt.,  and  Whittington'' s Peak.  There  are  several 
springs  within  easy  reach,  the  chief  of  which  are  Gillen-^s 
White  Sulphur  Springs,  Potash  Sulphur  Springs,  and  Mountain  Valley  Springs 
each  with  a hotel.  Good  shooting  and  fishing  are  also  obtainable. 


409  M.  Daleville;  426  M.  Gurdon;  457  M.  Hope  (360  ft.). 

490  M.  Texarkana  (300  ft. ; Cosmopolitan,  R.  $ 1 ; Randolph,  from 
$2),  a town  with  4914inhah.,  on  the  border  of  Texas  and  Arkansas, 
is  an  important  railway-junction,  from  which  connection  can  easily 
he  made  for  all  important  points  in  Texas,  via  the  Texas  and  Pacific 
and  other  railways  (comp.  p.  594). 


92.  From  Kansas  City  to  San  Francisco. 

a.  Vi^  Union  Pacific  Railway  System. 

2024  M.  Union  Pacific  System  in  721/2  hrs.  (fare  $50;  sleeper  $ 10.50). 
an-  iages  changed  at  Denver  or  Cheyenne.  Dining-cars  on  the  through-trains. 

Kansas  City,  see  p.  507.  The  train  at  first  follows  the  Kansas 
River  towards  the  W.  (views  to  the  left).  — 39  M.  Lawrence  (760  ft. ; 
Eldridge  Ho.,%2^1^,  a pleasant  little  commercial  city  of  10,862inhab.] 
situated  on  both  banks  of  the  Kansas  River,  is  the  seat  of  the  State 
University  (1300  students)  and  also  contains  the  Haskell  Institute,  a 
government  training-school  for  Indians.  We  are  here  joined  by  the 
line  from  (34  M.)  Leavenworth. 

Leavenworth  (750ft.;  New  Planters,  $21/2;  Imperial  R.  from  $1),  on  the 
on ■-70!?'^^  of  the  Missouri,  is  a busy  industrial  and  commercial  city  with 
20,7o5  inhabitants.  A colossal  bronze  statue  of  Gen,  U.  S.  Grant  was  erected 
here  in  1889.  To  the  N.  is  Fort  Leavenworth,  an  important  military  post. 

We  now  traverse  the  great  prairies  of  Kansas,  an  excellent  farming 
and  grazing  country.  — 67  M.  Topeka  (820  ft.;  Throop,  Copeland, 
$2-3;  National,  $2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  the  capital  of  Kansas,  a flour- 
ishing city  of  33,608  inhab.,  on  both  sides  of  the  Kansas  River.  The 
chief  buildings  include  the  State  Capitol,  the  Post  Office  and  Custom 
House,  the  State  Insane  Asylum,  the  Reform  School,  the  Free  Library 
(25,000  vols.),  Grace  Church  Cathedral,  Washburn  College,  and  Bethany 
College.  Topeka  has  large  mills  (value  of  products  in  1900,  $ 9,977,605) 
and  a brisk  trade.  — 104  M.  Wamego  (930  ft.).  We  cross  the  Blue 
River.  — 118  M.  Manhattan  (960  ft.),  with  the  State  Agricultural 
College.  135  M.  Fort  Riley,  an  army  post  with  an  important  mili- 
tary school.  The  Ogden  Monument  marks  the  geographical  centre  of 
the  United  States  (excl.  Alaska).  — 139  M.  Junction  City  (1020  ft.), 
for  a line  to  Clay  Centre  and  Belleville,  etc.  The  Smoky  Hill  River 
here  flows  to  the  left.  — 163  M.  Abilene  (1095  ft.;  Rail.  Restau- 
rant). Large  crops  of  wheat  and  other  grains  are  raised  here.  — 
186  M.  Salina  (p.  510).  We  now  cross  the  river.  223  M.  Ellsworth 
(1470  ft.);  289  M.  Hays,  Fort  Hays.  At  (303M.)  E^Zzs(2055ft. ; 
Rail.  Restaurant)  we  change  to  ‘Mountain’  time  (p.  xviii).  377  M. 
Oakley  (2980  ft.) ; 420  M.  Wallace  (3285  ft. ; Rail.  Restaurant).  We 
now  begin  to  pass  from  an  agricultural  to  a grazing  district,  where  the 


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DENYER. 


92.  Route.  513 


useful  ‘bunch-grass’  of  the  W.  affords  food,  both  summer  and  win- 
ter, to  millions  of  cattle.  Beyond  (452  M.)  Arapahoe  we  enter  Colo- 
rado (‘Silver  State’).  462  M.  Cheyenne  Wells  (4260  ft. ; Rail.  Restau- 
rant). — At  (473  M.)  First  View  we  obtain  the  first  view  of  the 
Rocky  Mts.j  still  about  170  M.  distant.  Pike's  Peak  (p.  530)  is  con- 
spicuous, nearly  due  W.  — Beyond  (487  M.)  Kit  Carson  (4275  ft.), 
named  after  the  well-known  scout,  we  follow  the  Big  Sandy  Creek 
(left)  towards  the  N.W.  535  M.  Hugo  (5025  ft.) , on  the  middle  fork 
of  the  Republican  River.  At  (550  M.)  Limon  we  cross  the  Rock  Is- 
land Railway.  563  M.  Cedar  Point  (5695  ft.)  is  the  highest  point  on 
this  part  of  the  line.  618  M.  Watkins  (5515  ft.). 

640  M.  Denver.  — Hotels.  "Brown  Palace  (PI.  a ^ C,  3),  R.  from  $ 1 1/2  ^ 
Metropole  (Pl.b;C,D,3),  from  $3,  R.  from  $1;  Oxford  (Pl.g:B,2),  R. 
$1-2;  Adams  (Pl.k;C,  3),  $3,  R.  from  $11/2;  Albany  (PI.  d *,0,3),  from 
$21/2,  R.  from  $1;  American  Ho.  (PI.  h;B, 2),  $2,  R $1;  Windsor  (PI.  c : 
C,  2),  $2,  well  spoken  of;  Graymont,  R.  $1-2;  St.  James  (Pl.e;  C,3),  $ 2- 
31/2,  R.  $1-11/2;  New  Markham,  R.  from  $1.  — Restaurants  at  the  Brown 
Palace,  Oxford,  and  other  hotels  on  the  European  plan. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  Harold  V.  Pearce. 

Denver  (5270  ft.),  the  capital  and  largest  city  of  Colorado,  lies  on 
the  S.  bank  of  the  South  Platte  River about  15  M.  from  the  E.  base 
of  the  Rocky  Mts.,  of  which  it  commands  a superb  view.  Denver, 
the  ‘Queen  City  of  the  Plains’,  was  founded  in  1858  and  is  a strik- 
ing example  of  the  marvellous  growth  of  western  cities,  reaching  a 
total  of  35,630  inhab.  in  1880  and  no  fewer  than  133,859  ’in  1900. 
Many  of  Denver’s  buildings  are  large,  handsome,  and  substantial,  and 
the  private  residences  and  gardens  are  often  very  tasteful.  The  busi- 
ness-streets are  paved  with  asphalt.  It  owes  its  prosperity  to  its  posi- 
tion in  the  heart  of  a rich  mining  district  and  as  the  centre  of  nu- 
merous important  railways  (comp.  pp.510,  527,  etc.);  while  in  1900 
its  manufactures,  including  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  flour,  machi- 
nery, beet-sugar,  and  carriages,  were  valued  at  $41,000,000. 

The  Z7nwuDcpot(Pl.B,2)  lies  at  the  foot  of  Seventeenth  Street, 
one  of  the  chief  business-thoroughfares,  and  electric  cars  start  from 
here  for  all  parts  of  the  city.  The  traveller  is  recommended  to  ascend 
17th  St.  and  17th  Ave.  by  electric  car  to  the  City  Park  (PI.  F,  2,  3 ; 
320  acres)  and  then  to  walk  across  to  Colfax  (or  15th)  Ave.  and  return 
by  it.  On  the  way  out  we  pass  the  Equitable  Building  (PI.  4,  C 3 ; cor. 
of  Stout  St.),  the  roof  of  which  affords  a superb  *View. 

The  Rocky  Mts.  are  seen  to  the  W.  in  an  unbroken  line  of  about 
1<0  M.,  extending  from  beyond  Long’^s  Peak  (p.  515)  on  the  N.  to  Pikes 
Peak  (p.  530)  on  the  S.  Among  the  loftiest  of  the  intervening  summits 
are  Grafs  Peak  (p.  515),  Torrey'^s  Peak  (p.  515),  and  Mi.  Evans  (14,330  ft ). 
The  bird’s-eye  view  of  the  city  at  our  feet  includes  the  State  Capitol 
(see  below)  and  the  fine  residences  of  Capitol  Hill  on  the  E. 

At  the  corner  of  17th  and  Glenarm  Sts.  is  the  ^Denver  Club 
(PI.  C,  3),  and  at  the  corner  of  Sherman  Ave.  are  the  University 
Club  (r.)  and  the  Central  Presbyterian  Church  (1.;  PI.  D,3).  — In  re- 
turning through  Colfax  (or  15th)  Ave.  we  pass  the  State  Capitol 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  33 


514  Jtoute  92.  GEORGETOWN*  From  Kansas  City 

(PL  D,  4),  an  imposing  building  erected  at  a cost  of  $2,500,000 
(in  tbe  basement  are  a few  war  relics).  The  County  Court  House 
(PI.  C,  3)  occupies  the  block  bounded  by  Court  Place  and  15th, 
16th,  and  Tremont  Sts.  — The  Custom  House  and  Post  Office 
(PI.  C,  3),  16th  St.,  is  another  imposing  building.  — A visit  may  also 
be  paid  to  the  U.  S.  Mint  (PI.  C,  4),  cor.  of  Colfax  Ave.  and  Evans  St. 

The  other  important  buildings  of  the  city  include  the  '^Denver 
High  School  (PL  C,  2,  3),  Stout  St.,  betw.  19th  and  20th  Sts.j  the 
City  Hall  (PI.  B,  3),  cor.  14th  and  Larimer  Sts.  ; the  Mining  Ex- 
change (PL  B,  C,  3);  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  (PL  3,  B 3;  with  the 
Mercantile  Library)’,  the  Baptist  College  (Montclair);  the  Tabor 
Opera  House  Block  (PL  5;  C,  3);  the  Broadway  Theatre  (PL  1;  C, 
1),  3);  the  Bijou  (Curtis  St.);  the  Denver  Athletic  Club;  Trinity 
Church  (PI.  C,  D,3),  Broadway  and  18th  St.;  the  Westminster  Uni- 
versity of  Colorado;  and  the  Jesuit  College  of  the  Sacred  Heart  (Col- 
lege Ave.,  cor.  of  Homer  Ave.).  — On  Capitol  Hill  (beyond  PLr,3) 
are  the  new  buildings  of  St.  Mary's  Cathedral  (R.  C.)  and  St.  John^s 
Cathedral  (Episc.).  The  Art  Museum,  in  Montclair  (see  below),  con- 
tains a collection  of  paintings  and  other  objects  of  art.  The  new 
Museum  in  the  City  Park  includes  an  interesting  collection  of  Colo- 
rado animals. 

A visit  should  also  be  paid  to  one  of  the  great  Smelting  Works 
of  Denvej,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  the  Boston  ^ Colorado 
(at  Argo,  see  below)  and  the  American  Smelting  ^ Refining  Co.,  both 
to  the  N.  of  the  city.  The  value  of  the  ores  reduced  here  annually 
amounts  to  $10,000,000. 

A good  idea  of  Denver’s  suburban  growth  is  obtained  by  taking 
the  electric  tramway  at  the  end  of  the  17th  Ave.  electric  line  and 
going  to  the  E.  over  Capitol  Hill  (fine  residences)  and  through  Mont- 
clair to  Aurora.  — Yisits  may  also  be  paid  by  electric  or  cable  cars 
to  ElitcKs  Zoological  Garden  (adm.  25  c.),  Berkeley  Lake  and  Park, 
and  Manhattan  Beach.  The  ‘Seeing  Denver’  Observation  Cars  (comp, 
p.  17)  start  twice  daily  from  the  Brown  Palace  Hotel  (fare  50  c.), 
taking  two  distinct  routes,  the  ‘Scenic  Section’  and  the  ‘Residence 
Quarter’. 

Denver  was  one  of  the  first  cities  to  adopt  the  interesting  prin- 
ciple of  a separate  court  for  juvenile  offenders  (comp.  p.  50),  and 
its  Childrens  Court  (Judge  B.  B.  Lindsey)  has  been  singularly  suc- 
cessful. 

Denver  is  a good  centre  for  numerous  excursions , a few  of  which 
are  enumerated  below.  Comp,  also  p.  528  (Colorado  Springs,  Denver 
& Rio  Grande  R.  R.)  and  p.  510. 

From  Denver  to  Golden,  Central  City,  and  Silver  Plume,  54  M., 
Colorado  Southern  Railway  in  4 hrs.  Observation-cars  are  attached  to 
the  trains.  — Beyond  (2  M.)  Argo  (5215  ft.)  and  (3  M.)  Argo  Junction  we 
have  a good  retrospect  of  Denver,  with  Pike’s  Peak  (p.  530)  in  the  distance. 
To  the  E.  is  the  Platte  River,  to  the  W.  rise  the  Rocky  Mts.  Farther  on 
we  descend  into  the  Clear  Creek  Valley.  At  (8  M.)  Arvada  we  turn  ^ke  W. 
16m.  Golden  (5655  ft. ; Avenue,  Crawford,  $2),  at  the  base  of  the  Table  mts. 


to  San  Francisco.  CENTRAL  CITY. 


92.  BouU.  515 


is  a small  industrial  and  mining  city,  with  2152  inhabitants.  We  now 
ascend  the  picturesque  ''Clear  Greek  Canon^  where  the  cli£fs  are  sometimes 
1000  ft.  high.  24  M.  Elk  Greek.  — 29  M.  Forks  Greek  (6830  ft.;  Rail.  Restau- 
rant), at  the  confluence  of  the  N.  and  S.  branches  of  Clear  Creek,  is  the 
junction  of  the  line  to  Central  City  (see  below).  — The  Silver  Plume  train 
follows  the  South  Clear.  37  M.  Idaho  Springs  (7540  ft.;  Beehe.^  Portland., 
$ 272),  in  the  midst  of  a gold  and  silver  mining  district,  is  frequented  for  its 
hot  and  cold  mineral  springs  (large  baths).  An  excursion  may  be  made 
to  (13  M.)  ''Chicago  Lakes  (11,000  ft.).  — We  continue  to  ascend  rapidly. 

50  M.  Georgetown  (8475  ft.;  H6t.  de  Paris.,  from  $3),  a silver*mining, 
town  with  1418  inhab.,  is  also  frequented  as  a summer-resort  on  account  of 
its  pure  air  and  beautiful  environment.  Excursions  may  be  made  to  (3  M.) 
Green  Lake  (10,400  ft.;  hotel).  Clear  Lake  (372  M.),  Elk  Lake  (6  M.),  etc. 
Four-horse  coaches  run  thrice  weekly  from  Georgetown,  through  the  "Ber- 
ihoud  Pass.,  to  (56M.)  Grand  Lake  (Hotels,  $2-272),  and  (47 M.)  Hot  Sulphur 
Springs  (The  Willows,  $3;  Kinney  Ho.,  $2),  in  Middle  Park,  the  second 
of  the  great  Natural  Parks  of  Colorado  mentioned  at  p.498.  Middle  Park, 
the  only  one  on  the  W.  side  of  the  ‘Continental  Divide’’,  has  a mean  ele- 
vation of  about  7500  ft.  and  an  area  of  3000  sq.  M.  It  is  a noted  resort 
for  sportsmen  in  search  of  big  game.  The  baths  of  Hot  Sulphur  Springs 
are  efficacious  in  rheumatism,  neuralgia,  and  cutaneous  affections. 

Above  Georgetown  the  train  threads  the  Devil's  Gate  and  climbs  up 
the  mountains  by  means  of  the  famous  -^Loop.,  where  it  bends  back  on 
itself  and  crosses  the  track  just  traversed  by  a lofty  bridge.  A little 
higher  up  it  makes  two  other  sweeping  curves,  which  nearly  bring  it 
back  upon  itself.  54  M.  Silver  Plume  (9175  ft. ; Windsor  Hotel,  $ 2)  is  now 
the  terminus  of  the  railway. 

At  either  Silver  Plume  or  Georgetown  horses  may  be  hired  for  the 
ascent  of  ^'Gray’s  Peak  (14,440  ft. ; 4-5  hrs.),  one  of  the  loftiest  of  the  Rocky 
Mts.  The  *View  is  superb,  including  in  clear  weather  Longa’s  Peak  (see 
below)  and  Pike‘’s  Peak  "(p.  530).  Adjacent  is  Torrey's  Peak  (14,335  ft.),  which 
may  also  be  ascended. 

[The  line  from  Forks  Creek  to  Central  City  (see  above;  11  M.,  in 55  min.) 
ascends  the  North  Clear  Creek.,  passing  numerous  quart/  mines.  Beyond 
(7  M.)  Black  Hawk  (8030  ft.)  it  overcomes  the  heavy  gradient  by  long 
‘switchback’’  curves.  From  Black  Hawk  the  Gilpin  County  Tramway  (gauge 
2 ft.),  for  the  conveyance  of  ore , ascends  rapidly  to  the  California  Mine 
(94S0  ft.).  — 11  M.  Central  City  (8500  ft.;  Teller.,  $23),  a busy  little 
mining  city,  with  3114  inhabitants.  An  ascent  may  be  made  of  James  Peak 
(13,280  ft.;  *View),  and  a pleasant  walk  or  ride  may  be  taken  to  (6  M.) 
Idaho  Springs  (see  above)  via  Bellevue  Hill  (fine  view  of  the  Front  Range).] 

From  Denver  to  Boulder  and  Fort  Collins,  74  M.,  Colorado  & Southern 
Pi,ailicay  in  4 hrs.  Beyond  (3  M.)  Argo  Junction  (see  p.  514)  the  train 
runs  to  the  N.  to  (30  M.)  Boulder  (5335  ft.;  St.  Julian;  Bowen.,  $2),  a 
small  mining  city  (6150  inhab.)  and  the  site  of  the  University  of  Colorado 
(970  students),  at  the  mouth  of  ^Boulder  Canon,  which  may  be  visited 
by  carriage  (to  the  Falls.,  9 M.,  and  back,  $5).  A branch-line  runs  from 
Boulder  to  (13M.)Nwwse!;(7695ft.).  — Beyond  Boulder  our  line  ascends  to  (44  M.) 
Longmont  (4935  ft.)  and  (61  M.)  Loveland  (4970  ft. ; Loveland  Ho. , Bushnell, 
$ 2).  From  the  latter  a stage-coach  runs  to  (24  M.)  Estes  Park  (6810  ft. ; 
Estes  Park  Hotel.,  $2-272;  Elkhorn  Lodge.,  $2-3),  a smaller  edition  of  the 
Great  Natural  Parks.  [Estes  Park  is,  perhaps,  best  reached  from  Denver 
by  the  Burlington  & Missouri  River  R.  R.  to  Longmont  (see  above)  and 
(48  M.)  Lyons.,  whence  stages  run  to  (20  M.)  the  hotels.]  Long’’s  Peak 
{Long''s  Peak  Ho..,  $2;  14,270  ft.)  rises  on  the  S.  side  of  the  park  and  may 
be  ascended  from  the  hotel  in  4-6  hrs.  (guide  necessary;  fatiguing);  the 
*View  includes  a large  section  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  For  the  ascents  of 
other  mountains  around  Estes  Park,  see  F.  H.  Chapin'" s ‘Mountaineering 
in  Colorado.’  Near  the  hotel  is  the  cottage  of  the  Earl  of  Dunraven,  a 
member  of  a company  that  owns  much  of  the  park.  — Beyond  Loveland 
the  train  runs  on  to  (74  M.)  Fort  Collins  (4970  ft.;  views),  connected  by 
railway  with  (25  M.)  Greeley  (p.  517)  and  with  Colorado  Junction. 

33* 


516  Route  92. 


SOUTH  PARK. 


From  Kansas  City 


From  Denver  to  Leadville  , 151  M.,  Colorado  & Southern  Railway  in 
91/4  iirs.  — The  line  runs  to  the  S.,  crossing  the  Platte  River.  8 M.  Sheridan 
Junction  (5285  ft.),  with  Fort  Logan.  About  12  M.  farther  on  we  reach 
the  ^Platte  Canon  (5490  ft.)  and  begin  to  ascend  rapidly.  29  M.  South  Platte 
(6035  ft.)  5 32  M.  Dome  Rock  (6200  ft.)  5 42  M.  Pine  Grove  (6740  ft.).  The  gorge 
contracts.  52  M.  Estahrook  (7550ft.),  a summer-resort-,  69  M.  Webster  (8980  ft.). 
The  line  curves  nearly  back  upon  itself  as  we  approach  the  summit  at 
(76  M.)  Kenosha  (9970  ft.).  As  we  begin  to  descend  we  have  a fine  '=View 
of  South  Park  (see  below).  — At  (88  M.)  Como  (9775  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant)  the 
Leadville  line  diverges  to  the  right  from  that  to  Gunnison  (see  below).  We 
now  again  ascend  rapidly,  passing  several  old  placer-workings.  94  M. 
Halfway  (10,530  ft  ).  At  (99  M.)  Boreas  (il,470  ft.),  at  the  summit  of  the 
Breckenridge  Pass^  we  reach  the  culminating  point  of  the  line,  on  the 
Continental  watershed  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  The  descent  is  abrupt  and 
tortuous.  110  M.  Breckenridge  (9525  ft.;  Denver  Hotel,  $3),  on  the  Blue 
River.  To  the  W.  and  S.W.  rise  Mts.  Fletcher.,  Quandary.,  Buckskin.,  and  other 
peaks;  to  the  N.,  Gray'" s Peak.,  Torrey's  Peak.,  and  Mt.  Powell.  Gold-mining  is 
actively  carried  on  all  along  this  part  of  the  route.  — Beyond  Breckenridge 
the  train  descends  to  the  K.,  along  the  Blue  River.  116  M.  Dickey  (8980ft.)  is 
the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (7  M.)  Keystone.  Farther  on  we  bend  to 
the  left  and  pass  through  the  Ten  Mile  Canon.  135  M.  Robinson  (10,820  ft.), 
in  a rich  mining  district.  To  the  left  towers  Mt.  Fletcher  (14,265  ft.).  To 
the  N.W.  rises  the  famous  Mt.  of  the  Holy  Cross  (14,175  ft.),  so  called  from 
the  cruciform  appearance  presented  by  two  snow -filled  ravines  which 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles  (best  seen  from  a point  on  the  road  to  the 
W.  of  Robinson).  — At  (137  M.)  Climax  (11,290  ft.)  we  reach  the  top  of  Fre- 
mont’s Pass  and  begin  to  descend.  145  M.  Bird's  (10,635  ft.).  — 151  M. 
Leadville  (10,185  ft.),  see  p.  533.  Leadville  is  also  reached  from  Denver 
via  the  D.  & R.  G.  and  Col.  Midland  R.  R.  (comp.  pp.  535, 537). 

From  Denver  to  Gunnison  and  Baldwin,  219  M.,  Colorado  and  Southern 
Railway  in  20  hrs.  — From  Denver  to  (88  M.)  Como.,  see  above.  Our  line 
continues  to  run  towards  the  S.W.,  through  South  Park.,  surrounding  or 
flanking  the  rocky  spurs  sent  out  by  the  loftier  mountains.  105  M.  Garos 
(9170  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (10  M.)  Fairplay  (9885  ft.) 
and  (16  M.)  Alma  (10,230  ft.) , both  near  the  centre  of  South  Park  (see 
below).  — The  valley  widens.  114  M.  Platte  River  (8935  ft.).  From  (120  M.) 
Bath  or  Hill  Top  (9460  ft.)  we  obtain  a view  of  the  Sawatch  or  Saguache 
Range.,  separating  the  Gunnison  and  San  Juan  country  from  the  valley  of 
the  Arkansas  and  culminating  in  Blanca  Peak  (14,465  ft.),  the  highest  of  the 
Rockies.  We  descend  rapidly.  127  M.  McGee's  (8650  ft.).  — 133  M.  Schwanders 
(7815  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (4  M.)  Buena  Vista  (7945  ft.).  About 
8-10  M.  to  the  W.  of  Buena  Vista  are  the  three  ‘Collegiate’  peaks  of  the 
Saguache  Range:  3ffs.  Yale  (14,185  ft.),  Princeton  (14,190  ft.),  and  Harvard 
(14,375  ft.).  Near  their  bases  are  (6  M.  from  Buena  Vista; 

stage).  — Beyond  Schwanders  wecrosstheDenver& Rio  Grande  R.  R.  (p.535). 
142  M.  Mt.  Princeton  Hot  Springs  (8170  ft.;  Hotel,  well  spoken  of;  mountain 
to  the  right);  153  M.  St.  Elmo  (10,040  ft.).  About  6 M.  beyond  (156  M.) 
Romley  (11,005  ft.)  we  reach  the  ^Alpine  Tunnel  (11,600  ft.),  590  yds.  long, 
one  of  the  highest  pieces  of  railway  in  the  world.  We  cross  the  Continental 
Divide  in  the  middle  of  the  tunnel  and  begin  to  descend  towards  the 
Pacific.  The  Wiew  on  emerging  from  the  tunnel  includes  the  San  Juan 
Mts.  (150  M.  to  the  S.W.),  the  Uncompahgre  Range  (p.  536),  the  valley  of 
the  Gunnison.,  the  Elk  Mts.  (right),  and  (in  the  foreground)  Mi.  Gothic  and 
Crested  Butte.  The  line  runs  along  a narrow  ledge,  with  perpendicular 
rocky  walls  on  the  one  side  and  the  deep  valley  on  the  other.  The  descent 
is  very  abrupt.  175  M.  Pitkin  (9180  ft.);  190  M.  Partin's  (7910  ft.).  — At 
(202  M.)  Gunnison  (7650  It.),  our  line  meets  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande 
Railway  (see  p.  535).  For  other  routes  to  the  Gunnison  district,  comp, 
p.  535.  — Beyond  Gunnison  our  line  runs  on  to  its  terminus  at  (219  M.) 
Baldwin. 

C South  Park  (see  above),  separated  from  Middle  Park  (p.  515)  by  a 
range  of  lofty  mountains,  has  a mean  elevation  of  about  9C00  ft.  and  an 


to  San  Francisco. 


TOPEKA. 


92.  Route.  517 


area  of  2000  sq.  M.  Its  climate  is  milder  than  that  of  the  Parks  to  the 
N.,  and  the  railways  make  it  more  accessible.  Numerous  excursions  may 
be  made  from  Fairplay  (p.  516),  one  of  the  finest  of  which  is  the  ascent 
of  "Mt.  Lincoln  (14,295  ft.),  easily  accomplished  (carriages  available 
nearly  to  the  top).  The  mountain-view  is  very  grand  and  extensive.  The 
beautiful  Lales  (9330  ft.),  at  the  E.  base  of  the  Saguache  Range,  are 
most  easily  reached  from  Granite  (p.  535).] 

One  of  the  finest  .excursions  that  can  be  made  from  Denver  is  that 
arranged  by  the  Denver  & Rio  Grande  Railroad  under  the  name  of  Around 
THE  Circle,  or  1000  M.  through  the  Rocky  Mts.  (fare  $23;  tickets 
available  for  60  days).  On  this  round  we  cross  and  recross  the  Great 
Divide,  thread  four  wonderful  canons,  surmount  four  mountain-passes  (one 
by  coach),  reach  a height  of  11,000  ft.,  and  pass  through  some  of  the  grandest 
scenery  in  America.  The  round  may  be  accomplished  in  4 days,  with 
halts  for  the  night  at  Durango,  Silverton,  and  Ouray;  but  it  is  better  to 
spend  a much  longer  time  on  it  and  make  various  side-trips.  — The 
different  sections  of  this  circular  tour  are  described  elsewhere.  From 
Denver  to  Colorado  Springs.,  PneMo^  and  {ilQM..)  Guchar a Junction.,  see  R.  94  a; 
from  Cuchara  Junction  to  Durango.,  Silverton.,  and  (345  M.)  Red  Mountain., 
see  p.  533;  from  Red  Mountain  to  (8  M.)  Ouray  (stage),  see  p.  534;  from 
Ouray  to  (35  M.)  Montrose  and  back  to  (353  M.)  Denver.,  see  pp.  538-523. 

From  Denver  to  La  Junta,  181  M.,  Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  F4  R.  R, 
in  6-7  hrs.  Through-carriages  run  by  this  route  to  Kansas  City,  to  Chicago, 
and  to  Californian  and  Mexican  points.  — From  Denver  to  (117  M.)  Pueblo 
this  line  runs  parallel  with  the  Denver  & Rio  Grande  Railway  (see  R.  94  a), 
passes  the  same  stations,  and  enjoys  the  same  scenery.  — Beyond  Pueblo 
it  strikes  off  towards  the  S.E.  — 181  M.  La  Junta,  see  p.  519. 

At  Denver  the  San  Francisco  line  turns  sEarply  to  tlie  right  and 
runs  to  the  N.,  along  the  S.  Platte  River  and  parallel  with  the  Rocky 
Mts.,  30-40  M.  to  the  W.  (fine  views  to  the  left).  — From  (658  M.) 
Brighton  (4970  ft.)  a branch-line  runs  to  Boulder  (seep.  515). — 
686  M.  La  Salle  (4665  ft.),  the  junction  of  a line  to  Juleshurg 
(p.  496);  691  M.  Greeley  (4635  ft.;  Oasis  Hotel,  from  $ 2),  a thriv- 
ing town  of  3023  inhab.,  on  the  Cache  la  Poudre  River  (line  to  Fort 
Collins,  see  p.  515).  Considerable  quantities  of  ‘alfalfa’  or  ‘lucerne’ 
(a  kind  of  clover)  and  other  crops  are  grown  all  along  this  line  on 
land  which  is  perfectly  barren  without  irrigation. 

747  M.  Cheyenne  (6050  ft,),  and  thence  to  — 

2024  M.  San  Francisco,  see  p.  497. 


b.  Vi^  Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  Railway. 

2118  M.  Railway  in  63  hrs.  (fare  $50;  sleeper  $11.50).  Through- 
carriages  run  from  Chicago  to  San  Francisco  by  this  route  (2576  M.)  in 
75  hrs.  (fare  $ 62.50;  sleeper  $14;  tourist-car  8 7).  A large  part  of  the 
district  traversed  is  semi-arid,  but  some  points  of  considerable  interest 
are  passed  (see  p.  519),  while  the  wonderful  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado 
is  most  easily  reached  from  Williams  (p.  522). 

Kansas  City,  see  p.  507.  The  line  runs  to  the  W. , along  the 
S.  side  of  the  Kansas  River,  and  ascends  steadily.  At  (14  M.)  Hoi- 
liday  (760  ft.)  we  are  joined  by  the  branch  horn  Leavenworth  (p.  512). 
40  M.  Lawrence  (p.  512).  At  (67  M.)  Topeka  (885  ft. ; see  p.  512) 
we  are  joined  by  the  branch  from  Atchison  (p.  506).  We  now  pass 
through  a prosperous  district  with  many  small  towns.  93  M.  Bur- 
lingame (1040  ft.);  101  M.  Osage  City;  128  M.  Emporia;  148  M, 


518  Route  92. 


OKLAHOMA. 


From  Kansas  City 


Strong  City ; 173  M.  Florence;  185  M.  Peabody  (1350  ft.).  — 201  M. 
Newton  (1440  ft.;  Arcade  Hotel),  the  junction  of  a line  running  S. 
to  Galveston , is  the  centre  of  the  Mennonite  settlements , made  up 
of  over  100,000  German  and  Russian  Quakers,  who  have  immigrated 
since  1874.  They  are  industrious  and  thrifty,  and  have  huilt  a large 
academy  in  Newton. 

From  Newton  to  Galveston  , 750  M.,  A.  T.  & S.  F.  Railway  in  30  lirs. 

— Among  the  most  important  intermediate  stations  are  (27  M.)  Wichita 
(24  671  inhab. ; Carey  Hotel,  $ 2-3);  43  M.  Mulvane;  65M.  Winfield (bNyl  inhab. ; 
St.  James,  $ 2);  79  M.  Arkansas  City  (1065  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a flourishing 
place  with  6140  inhabitants.  We  now  cross  the  Arkansas  River  and  enter 
Oklahoma  Territory  (the  ‘Boomers’  Paradise’),  formerly  part  of  Indian 
Territory,  but  purchased  from  the  Creeks  in  1889  and  opened  to  white 
settlers.  It  has  an  area  of  38,830  sq.  M.  and  a population  (1900)  of  398,331 
(62,390  in  1890),  exclusive  of  about  14,000  Indians.  The  rush  across  the 
border  as  soon  as  the  new  territory  was  opened  has  become  historical,  tent 
towns  with  thousands  of  inhabitants  springing  up  in  a single  day.  Oklahoma 
is  preeminently  an  agricultural  and  cattle-breeding  district,  and  the 
development  of  agriculture  since  1890  has  been  extraordinary.  The  produce 
includes  maize,  wheat,  cotton,  and  fruit.  It  will  probably  be  very  soon 
united  with  Indian  Territory  to  form  a State  of  the  Union  (comp,  below). 

— 92  M.  Newkirk.  Near  (104  M.)  Ponca  City  (hotel)  is  the  white  Eagle 
Agency  of  the  Ponca  Indians.  139  M.  Perry.  — 168  M.  Guthrie  (930  ft.; 
Hotels^,  the  capital  of  Oklahoma,  is  a busy  little  place  with  (1900) 
10,006  inhabitants.  — 199  M.  Oklahoma  {Lee,  from  $ 2V2)  had  10,037  inhab. 
in  1900  and  has  many  more  now.  A side-trip  may  be  made  hence  to  Shawnee, 
with  its  Kickapoo  bark-lodges.  At  (232  M.)  Purcell  we  cross  the  Canadian 
River  and  enter  Indian  Territory,  a tract  of  about  31,000  sq.  M.,  set  apart 
for  the  Indian  tribes  to  the  E.  of  the  Mississippi  but  now  largely  peopled 
by  whites  (comp,  also  p.  507).  The  chief  civilised  tribes  located  here  are 
the  Cherokees,  Chickasaws,  Seminoles,  Creeks,  and  Choctaws,  and  these  ‘Five 
Nations’  have  long  enjoyed  a considerable  measure  of  Home  Rule.  The 
recent  large  influx  of  white  immigrants  has,  however,  necessitated  im- 
portant changes  in  the  direction  of  the  extension  of  complete  Federal 
iuri.^diction  over  the  Territory;  and,  in  all  probability,  it  will  soon  be 
united  in  one  State  with  Oklahoma  (see  above).  Farming  is  the  chief 
occupation,  but  as  a rule  the  Indians  rent  their  lands  to  white  cultivators. 
The  Territory  contains  numerous  schools,  churches,  public  buildings,  etc. 
Between  1890  and  1900  the  population  rose  from  186,390  to  392,060.  — We 
now  tr  werse  the  lands  of  the  Chickasaw  Nation,  crossing  the  Washita 
two  or  three  times.  254  M.  PauVs  Valley ; 266  M Ardmore  (p.  507).  Beyond 
{325  M.)  Thackerville  we  cross  the  Red  River  and  enter  Texas  (p.  589). 
339  M.  Gainesville;  405  M.  Fort  Worth  (see  p.  595);  432  M.  Clehurne  (Rail, 
Restaurant),  the  junction  of  a line  to  Dallas  (p.  595).  From  (498  M.) 
McGregor  a line  runs  to  (20  M.)  Waco  (‘Geyser  City’;  McClelland  Ho.), 
with  20,683  inhab.,  warm  Artesian  wells,  and  a large  natatorium.  531  M. 
Temple  Junction  (Rail.  Restaurant);  576  M.  Milano,  the  junctioq  of  a line 
to  Austin  (p.  592);  608  M.  Somerville;  684  M.  Rosenberg  Junction;  721  M. 
Alvin.  — 750  M.  Galveston,  see  p.  593. 

211  M.  Halstead  (1385  ft,);  236  M.  Hutchinson  (1525  ft). 
We  now  follow  the  general  course  of  the  Arkansas  River  (left), 
passing  through  a good  agricultural  and  cattle  - raising  district 
276 M.  Ellinwood  (1780ft);  333  M.  Kinsley  (2160ft).  At  (369  M.) 
Hodge  City  (2475  ft;  1942  inhab.)  we  change  from ‘Central’  to 
‘Mountain  time  (1  hr.  slower;  comp.  p.  xviii).  419  M.  Garden 
C%  (2825  ft).  — Beyond  (485  M.)  Coolidge  (3360  ft)  we  enter 
Colorado  (p.  513).  496  M.  Amity,  with  a flourishing  Salvation  Army 
Colony,  owning  10,000  acres  of  fertile  prairie  land;  519  M.  Lamar 


to  San  Francisco. 


SANTA  FE. 


92.  Route.  519 


(3600  ft.).  Fartlier  on  the  Rocky  Mts.  begin  to  come  into  sight  in 
front,  to  the  right.  — 571  M.  La  Junta  (pron.  ‘La  Hoonta’;  4060  ft.), 
a place  of  2513  inhah.,  is  the  junction  of  the  line  from  Denver 
described  at  p.  517.  Pifcc’s  Peak  (p.  530)  is  seen  to  the  right.  Our 
line  runs  towards  the  S.W.  — 653  M.  Trinidad  (5995  ft. ; * Carde- 
nas, at  the  station;  Columbian,  $3),  the  industrial  and  commercial 
centre  of  S.E.  Colorado,  is  a thriving  city  of  5345  inhah.,  in 
which  the  characteristics  of  old  Mexico  and  young  America  are  in- 
extricably mixed  (comp,  below). 

At  (662  M.)  Morley  (6745  ft.)  we  begin  to  ascend  the  Raton  Mts,, 
which  form  a conspicuous  feature  in  the  views  from.  Trinidad. 
The  gradient  is  steep.  Fine  views,  especially  of  the  Spanish  Peaks 
(p.  532;  right).  At  the  top  of  the  pass  (7620  ft.)  we  pass  througii 
a long  tunnel  and  enter  New  Mexico  (p.  532).  The  descent  is  also 
rapid.  676  M.  Raton  (6620  ft.).  The  line  runs  through  the  central 
valley  of  New  Mexico,  about  20  M.  wide,  which  is  traversed  by 
the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte  and  several  other  streams,  and  flanked  by 
mountains  6000-10,000  ft.  high.  Agriculture  is  carried  on  in  the 
side-valleys  and  plains  by  careful  irrigation , but  the  greater  part 
of  the  Territory  is  better  adapted  for  grazing.  — 742  M.  Wagon 
Mound.  — From  (787  M.)  Las  Vegas  (6380  ft.;  Montezuma,  $ 4; 
Castaneda,  $ 3-4),  an  important  wool-market  with  3552  inhah.,  on 
a fork  of  the  Pecos  River,  an  electric  railway  runs  to  (6  M.)  Las  Vegas 
Hot  Springs. 

Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs  (6770ft.  ^ *‘Mo7iiezuma  Hotel,  $ 3V2  6),  about  40  in 
number,  lie  on  the  S.E.  slope  of  the  Santa  Fe  range  of  the  Rocky  Mts.  and 
vary  in  temperature  from  75°  to  140°  Fahr.  The  water  resembles  that  of 
the  Arkansas  Hot  Springs  (p.  511)  and  has  similar  results.  It  is  used  both 
for  bathing  and  drinking.  Mud-baths  are  also  used  ($  3,  including  mas- 
sage). Many  pleasant  excursions  can  be  made  in  the  vicinity.  The  mean 
annual  temperature  is  59°  Fahr.  (summer  73°). 

Near  (832  M.)  Rowe  lies  (r.)  the  curious  bid  Pecos  Church,  a relic 
of  a Franciscan  mission,  dating  from  early  in  the  17th  cent,  and 
abandoned  in  1840.  Farther  on  we  cross  another  ridge  by  the  Glorieta 
Pass  (7535  ft.)  and  descend  to  (851  M.)  Lamy  Junction  (6460  ft.; 
hotel),  where  the  line  to  (18M.)  Santa  Fe  diverges  to  the  right. 

[Santa  Fe  (7040  ft.;  Palace  Hotel,  $ 2V2-3;  Clare),  the  capital 
of  New  Mexico,  is,  next  to  St.  Augustine  (p.  447),  the  most  ancient 
town  in  the  United  States,  having  been  founded  by  the  Spaniards 
in  1605,  while  the  site  was  occupied  long  before  this  by  a village  of 
the  Pueblo  Indians  (p.  Ixvii).  It  is  in  many  ways  a most  quaint  and 
interesting  place,  with  its  narrow  streets,  adobe  houses,  and  curious 
mingling  of  American,  Mexican,  and  Indian  types.  It  lies  in  the 
centre  of  an  important  mining  district  and  carries  on  a considerable 
trade.  Pop.  (1900)  5603.  The  focus  of  interest  is  the  Plaza,  or 
public  square,  with  a Soldiers^  Monument.  On  one  side  extends  the 
Governor  s Palace,  a long  low  structure  of  adobe,  which  has  been  the 
abode  of  the  Spanish,  Mexican,  and  American  governors  for  nearly 


520  Eoute  92. 


ALBUQUERQUE.  From  Kansas  City 


300  years.  It  harbours  the  Museum  of  the  Nev)  Mexico  Historical 
Society^  containing  old  Spanish  paintings,  historical  relics,  and  Indian 
curiosities.  The  Cathedral  of  San  Francisco^  a large  stone  building 
with  two  towers,  incorporates  parts  of  the  old  cathedral,  dating 
from  1622.  The  Church  of  San  Miguel,  originally  built  about  the 
middle  of  the  17th  cent.,  was  destroyed  by  Indians  in  1680  and  restored 
in  1710.  Other  points  of  interest  are  the  new  (now  abandoned)  and 
the  old  Fort  Marcy^  San  Miguel  College.^  and  the  Ramona  Industrial 
School  for  Indian  Children.  Among  the  chief  modern  structures  are 
the  State  Capitol  and  the  Federal  Building.  A visit  should  be  paid 
to  the  makers  of  Mexican  silver  filigree-work,  whose  shops  are  mainly 
in  or  near  the  Plaza.  Gen.  Lew  Wallace  wrote  ‘Ben-Hur’  in  the 
Palace,  while  Governor  of  New  Mexico  (1879-82).  — About  9 M. 
to  the  N. W.  of  Santa'  Ee  is  the  interesting  pueblo  of  the  Tesuque 
Indians^  who  visit  the  city  daily,  bringing  firewood  on  their  ‘burros’ 
(donkeys).  From  Santa  Fe  to  Espanola  and  AntonitOj  see  p.  532.] 


Near  (882  M.)  Thornton  (5245  ft.),  on  the  Rio  Grande^  are  the 
pueblos  of  Santo  Domingo  (grand  festival  on  Aug.  4th)  and  San 
Felipe.  We  now  follow  the  bank  of  the  large  and  rapid  Rio  Grande, 
919  M.  Albuquerque  (4930  ft. ; "^Alvarado.,  $3-5,  connected  with 
the  station  by  an  arcade;  Highland.,  burned  down  in  1904;  European, 
$ 2) , with  6238  inhab.  and  a brisk  trade  in  wool  and  hides,  is  the 
connecting-point  with  the  Santa  Fe  line  to  El  Paso  and  Mexico, 
though  the  actual  point  of  divergence  is  13  M.  farther  on  (see  below). 
The  Railway  Station  and  the  Alvarado  Hotel  are  built  in  the  pictur- 
esque Spanish  Mission  style ; the  latter  contains  an  interesting  col- 
lection of  the  ‘Arts  and  Crafts’  of  the  Moki,  Zuni,  Navajo,  Apache, 
and  Pima  Indians. 

From  Albuquerque  to  El  Paso,  253  M.,  railway  in  9-10  hrs.  Through- 
sleepers  run  via  this  route  from  Kansas  City  to  El  Paso , connecting  with 
the  Mexican  Central  Railway  (comp.  p.  589).  — We  diverge  from  the  line 
to  California  at  (13  M.)  Isleta  Junction  (see  below)  and  run  towards  the  S. 
30  M.  Helen  (4785  ft.).  The  mezquite  ( Prosopis  juUflora)  now  begins  to  ap- 
pear. 76  M.  Socorro;  86  M.  San  Antonio;  103  M.  San  Marcial  (Rail.  Restau- 
rant) 5 141  M.  Engle.  177  M.  Rincon  (4015  ft. ; Rail.  Restaurant)  is  the  junction 
of  a line  to  Deming  (p.  588).  210  M.  Las  Cruces.  — 253  M.  El  Paso,  see  p.  589. 

The  main  route  continues  due  W.,  wlile  at  (932  M.)  Isleta  (see 
above)  the  line  to  El  Paso  diverges  to  the  S.  We  leave  the  Rio 
Grande,  and  run  through  a semi-arid  and  monotonous  country,  which, 
however,  makes  some  response  to  irrigation.  The  curious-looking 
Yuc(fa  is  now  seen;  this  and  the  Artemisia  are  often  the  only  vege- 
tation in  the  desert,  though  the  foothills  are  dotted  with  groves  of 
pinon  and  cedar.  At  (985  M.)  Laguna  (5765  ft.)  the  railway  runs 
through  an  Indian  pueblo,  the  houses  of  which  are  built  in  terraces 
two  and  three  stories  high.  This  is  the  most  modern  of  the  pueblos, 
its  foundation  dating  from  1699. 

Visitors  to  tbis  pueblo  find  accommodation  in  the  house  of  one  or 
other  of  the  four  or  five  white  families  here.  The  Indians,  some  of  whom 


to  San  Francisco. 


FLAGSTAFF. 


92.  Route.  521 


have  been  educated  at  Carlisle  (p.  288)  and  speak  good  English,  welcome 
visitors  and  offer  hand-made  pottery  for  sale.  Their  houses  are  of  stone, 
plastered  with  adobe,  and  some  of  them  are  entered,  with  the  aid  of  lad- 
ders, through  the  roofs.  The  Roman  Catholic  adobe  church  is  nearly  two 
centuries  old.  — About  16  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Laguna  lies  Acoma^  the  most 
interesting  of  all  the  pueblos,  discovered  by  Coronado  in  1540.  In  situation 
it  is  as  striking  as  in  structure,  being  ‘nobly-perched’  on  the  plateau  of 
a huge  rock  elevation  (carr.  there  and  back  $ 5^  for  3 or  more  pers.  $2 
each;  blankets  and  light  camp-outfit  desirable)-. 

Between  Laguna  and  Acoma,  3 M.  to  the  E.  of  the  latter,  rising  pre- 
cipitously 430  ft.  above  the  valley,  is  the  so-called  Mesa  Encantada^  or  ‘En- 
chanted Table-land’  (inaccessible  except  by  ladders  and  ropes).  This  was 
sealed  by  F.  W.  Hodge  in  1897  and  found  to  bear  evidence  of  former  ab- 
original occupancy,  thus  verifying  a tradition  of  the  Acomas  that  their  an- 
cestors lived  on  the  height,  but  were  forced  to  abandon  their  village  after 
a storm  had  destroyed  the  only  trail,  and  caused  those  left  on  the  summit 
to  perish. 

Beyond  Laguna  Mt.  Taylor  or  San  Mateo  (11,388  ft),  tbe  loftiest 
mountain  iiiNew Mexico,  is  seen  to  tlieN.(riglit).  Between (1002 M.) 
McCarty  s and  (1015  M.)  Grant's  tlie  railway  follows  a stupendous 
flow  of  black  lava.  About  30  M.  farther  on  we  pass  the  Continental 
Divide  (7300  ft.),  but  there  is  nothing  in  the  surroundings  to 
suggest  that  we  have  reached  so  high  an  elevation  or  are  passing 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  slope.  — 1065M.TFmpa<c  (6715  ft.), 
3 M.  from  Fort  Wingate.  — 1077  M.  Gallup  (6480  ft.;  Rail.  Restau- 
rant), with  large  coal-mines,  is  the  supply  station  for  Fort  Defame 
(stage  $272)  s-nd  the  Agency  of  the  great  Navajo  (‘Nahvaho’)  In- 
dian Reservation.,  which  lies  at  some  distance  to  the  N.  of  the  line. 
Indians  may  be  seen  at  the  railway-stations,  selling  fine  Navajo  blan- 
kets, silver-work,  and  other  home-made  articles. 

Gallup  is  also  the  usual  starting-point  for  a visit  to  the  famous  pueblo  of 
Zuni,  which  lies  about  40  M.  to  the  S.  (carr.  there  and  back  $ 10,  2-4  pers.  $ 15). 

Beyond  (1093  M.)  Manuelito  (6230  ft.)  we  enter  the  Territory  of 
Arizona  (‘Sunset  Land’).  — 1131  M.  Navajo  Springs.  — From 
(1151  M.)  Adamana  (Forest  Hotel)  a visit  may  be  paid  to  the  extra- 
ordinary Petrified  or  Chalcedony  Forests  of  Arizona^  the  most  access- 
ible of  which  lies  about  7 M.  to  the  S.  (carr.  there  and  back  in 
6-7  hrs. ; fare  $ 3,  two  or  more  pers.  $ 2^/2  each).  These  forests  are 
also  visited  from  (1172  M.)  Holbrook  (5050  ft. ; Holbrook  Ho.,  $21/2; 
Brunswick).  The  trip  to  the  largest  of  them  (about  18  M.  to  the  S.) 
requires  a day,  and  necessitates  a stop-over  at  Holbrook  of  two  nights 
(carr.  there  and  back  $ 2V2  each).  The  seven  Moki  or  Hopi  Villages., 
the  ancient  ‘Province  of  Tusayan’,  are  also  visited  from  Holbrook; 
the  famous  ‘Snake  Dances’  occur  in  the  latter  half  of  August.  — 
1205  M.  Winslow  (4825  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant).  Farther  on  we  cross 
a bridge,  540  ft.  long  and  222  ft.  high,  spanning  the  (1230  M.) 
Canon  Diablo. 

1263  (6935  ft.;  New  Bank  Ho.,  $ 21/2)  was  the  starting- 

point  of  the  old  stage-route  to  (70  M.)  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colo- 
rado (see  p.  522).  To  the  N.rise  the  San  Francisco  Mts.  (12,794  ft.), 
extinct  volcanoes,  surrounded  by  a district  of  cinder  cones  and  lava 


522  Route  92.  GRAND  CANON.  ^From  Kansas  City 

beds,  like  the  Phlegraeaii  Fields  of  Italy.  The  one  known  as  Hum- 
phrey s Peak  may  be  ascended  with  little  trouble  (7  M.  by  carriage 
and  3 M.  in  the  saddle).  It  affords  an  extensive  *View  of  the  N.  wall 
of  the  Canon,  the  Navajo  and  Buckskin  Mts.,  the  ‘Painted  Desert’  and 
the  Moki  Buttes  and  villages.  The  Percival  Lowell  Observatory  is 
visible  from  the  train,  to  the  N.W.  of  the  town,  and  visitors  are  made 
welcome. 

Driving  excursions’ from  Flagstaff  may  be  made  to  the  Cliff  Dwellings  in 
Walnut  Canon  (8  M.  to  the  S.);  to  Coconimo  Butte.,  witb  cave-dwellings  (9  M. 
to  the  N.E.);  and  to  the  Natural  Bridge  (275  ft.  high^  60  M.  to  the  S,). 

1297  M.  Williams  (6725  ft.;  Grand  Canon  Hotel,  $3),  a cattle- 
shipping point  with  1400  inhab.,  is  the  station  for  the  branch-line 
to  the  Grand  Canon  (see  below).  The  traveller  who  stops  over  night 
may  ascend  Bill  Williams  Mt.  (9265  ft. ; 5 hrs.,  easy  bridle-path). 
The  alleged  grave  of  the  famous  scout,  who  gave  his  name  to  the 
mountain  and  the  town,  is  pointed  out  on  the  top,  but  he  is  really 
buried  50  M.  to  the  S.,  where  he  was  killed  by  Indians.  To  the  N.W. 
rises  Mt.  Floyd. 

From  Williams  to  Grand  CaSon  Station,  631/2  M.,  railway  in  3 hrs. 
(retnrn-fare  $6.50;  chair-car  50  c.;  sleeper  $2).  There  is  a daily  train 
each  way,  starting  at  2 p.m.  from  Williams  and  at  9 a m.  from  Grand 
Canon  station.  These  connect  with  the  transcontinental  trains  E.  and  W., 
and  usually  waitf  or  them  when  they  are  belated.  A Pullman  sleeper  for 
the  canon  (berth  through  $ 5)  is  attached  to  the  train  leaving  Los  Angeles 
at  8 p.m.  on  Thurs.  in  winter  and  picks  up  passengers  at  Williams  from 
the  west-bound  transcontinental  train.  This  sleeper  returns  on  Mon.,  by 
the  9 a.m.  train  from  the  canon,  and  is  taken  through  to  Los  Angeles  by 
the  transcontinental  train.  Another  special  train  (no  sleeper)  leaves  the 
cation  at  7 p.m.  every  Frid.  in  winter,  connecting  with  the  through 
W.  train. 

Perhaps  the  most  favourable  season  for  this  trip  is  in  the  early  spring 
(April,  May,  or  even  June),  before  the  intense  heat  arrives.  In  the  winter 
months,  preferably  Dee.  and  Jan.,  while  the  keen,  thin,  cold  air  makes 
the  driving  and  horseback  excursions  less  agreeable,  the  effects  given  by 
cloud  and  snow  under  the  brilliant  skies  are  varied  and  striking.  If  possible, 
the  stay  here  should  be  made  under  a full  moon,  and  should  be  prolonged 
for  a week  at  least. 

From  Williams  tbe  canon  train  runs  to  the  N.  over  level  tracts 
of  sage-brush  desert,  stony  land  with  dwarf  firs  and  pines , sparse 
bunch-grass,  and,  finally,  pasturage.  From  (52  M.)  Apex  (6600  ft.) 
we  make  a slight  descent  to  (68^/2  M.)  Grand  Canon  Station,  two 
minutes  walk  from  the  Bright  Angel  Hotel  (simple,  primitive,  clean; 
$ 3).  The  house  itself,  with  wooden  outbuildings,  stands  almost  on 
the  edge  of  the  canon.  A larger  hotel  is  in  course  of  construction 
near  by,  and  may  be  ready  for  visitors  early  in  1905. 

The  **Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado,  one  of  the  most  stupendous 
natural  wonders  of  the  world,  is  3000-5000  ft.  deep  and  217  M.  long, 
following  the  river.  Its  ordinary  width  is  about  10  M. ; at  Bright 
Angel  it  measures  13  M.  from  the  N.  to  the  S.  rim.  The  river,  300  ft. 
wide  at  its  broadest,  is  2400  ft.  above  the  sea -level.  The  walls 
of  the  canon,  which  are  terraced  and  carved  into  a myriad  of 


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GRAND  CANON. 


92.  Route.  523 


pinnacles  and  towers,  are  tinted  with  various  brilliant  colours.  The 
canon  was  first  made  specifically  known  to  the  world  by  Major  Powell, 
late  Chief  of  the  U.  S.  Geological  Survey , who  in  1869  descended 
it  by  boat  from  the  Green  River  (p.  536)  to  the  Virgin  River^  a distance 
of  1000  M.  He  believes  that  the  river  was  running  here  before  the 
mountains  were  formed,  and  that  the  canon  was  created  by  the  erosion 
of  the  water  acting  simultaneously  with  the  slow  upheaval  of  the 
rocks.  The  geological  student  has  unfolded  to  him,  in  the  sides  of  the 
canon,  all  the  strata  from  the  carboniferous  formations  down  to  the 
Archaean  granite. 

Comp.  Major  J.  W.  PowelVs  ‘Canyons  of  tke  Colorado’  (1893),  Capt. 
Dutton's  ‘Tertiary  History  of  tbe  Grand  Canon  District’  (1892),  Fred.  S.  Dell'en- 
laugWs  ‘Eomance  of  the  Colorado  River’  (1903),  and  Geo.  Wharton  James's 
‘In  and  Around  the  Grand  Canon’. 

There  are  three  main  trails  by  which  the  traveller  can  reach  the 
bottom  of  the  canon,  without  danger  though  not  without  fatigue, 
either  on  foot  or  in  the  saddle.  Horses  and  guides  are  supplied  at 
the  hotels.  — 1.  The  Bright  Angel  Trail,  572  M.  down  from  rim  to 
river,  of  which  a small  distance  must  be  done  on  foot,  requires  3 hrs. 
for  the  descent  and  3^2  lirs.  for  the  return,  with  2 hrs.  for  rest  and 
luncheon  (charge  $ 4 each,  including  luncheon,  horse,  and  guide).  — 
2.  The  Grand  View  Trail  is  reached  by  stage  (electric  railway  pro- 
jected) from  Grand  Canon  Station,  leaving  daily  at  8.30  a.m.,  or  by 
private  conveyance  from  Bright  Angel  Hotel  (return-fare,  $ 3)  to  the 
(14  M.  to  the  E.)  Grand  View  Hotel,  a favourite  summer  stopping- 
place  ($  3 a day,  $ 18  weekly).  This  was  the  terminus  of  the  old 
stage-line  from  Flagstaff  (p.  521).  The  altitude  at  this  point  (7500  ft.) 
permits  vast  outlooks  up  and  down  the  river  and  canon,  and  beyond 
its  E.  boundary  wall.  The  trail,  which  begins  about  1 M.  to  the  W. 
of  the  hotel,  is  8 M.  in  length,  of  which  about  1500  ft.  must  be  taken 
on  foot.  — 3.  About  4 M.  to  the  E.  of  the  hotel  is  Hances  New  Trail, 
commonly  called  Red  Canon  Trail,  672  M.  from  rim  to  river.  This 
is  the  best  of  all  the  trails,  especially  for  the  descent,  and  may  be 
ridden  all  the  way.  — Parties  are  made  up  at  the  Grand  Yiew  Hotel 
for  a three  days’ trip,  descending  by  Hance’s  Trail  and  returning  by 
the  Grand  Yiew  Trail,  two  nights  being  spent  in  camps  at  the  river 
and  half-way  up  the  Grand  Yiew  Trail.  Shelter  and  food  are  provided 
by  the  hotel  without  extra  charge  beyond  the  daily  rate,  and  each 
person  pays  $4  daily  for  his  horse  and  his  share  of  the  guide. 

About  272  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  Grand  Yiew  Hotel  is  Hances 
Ranch  Hotel,  also  on  the  verge  of  the  canon,  a rough  structure  for 
about  30  summer-visitors.  It  is  the  starting-point  for  the  trip  to 
(28  M.)  Little  Colorado  Canon. 

Some  grand  views  are  obtained  by  walking  or  driving  from  the 
Bright  Angel  Hotel  to  HNeilVs  Point,  272  M.  to  the  E.,  and  to  Rowe's 
Point,  272  M.  to  the  W.  The  latter  may  be  included  in  the  drive  to 
(26  m.)  Bass's  Camp  (6600  ft. ; Havasupai  Hotel,  simple),  another  point 
commanding  a superb  view  of  the  canon.  The  Mystic  Spring  Trail 


524  Route  92. 


MOJAVE  DESERT.  From  Kamas  City 


(5V2  in  length),  which  begins  here,  is  of  great  interest,  though 
comparatively  little  used.  It  descends  by  an  easy  grade  (practicable 
for  horses  all  the  way)  to  the  Colorado  River,  which  is  215  ft.  wide 
at  this  point.  Crossing  by  boat,  we  may  mount  the  N.  bank  to  Swampy 
Point  and  Duttons  Pointy  on  the  extreme  brink  of  PoweWs  Plateau. 
The  view  from  here,  1000  ft.  higher  than  the  S.  wall,  while  not  com- 
parable with  that  from  the  other  side,  is  well  worth  this  climb.  Four 
days  are  required  for  this  trip  from  Bass’s  Camp  and  back;  and  it  may 
be  lengthened  for  two  days  more,  by  the  ride  to  Point  Sublime. 

Cataract  Canon  and  its  Indian  Village  may  be  visited  from  Bass’s 
Camp  on  horseback  (30  M.),  or  direct  from  Bright  Angel  Hotel  by 
carriage.  The  U.  S.  official  in  charge  of  this  Havasupai  Reservation 
can  admit  visitors  only  when  they  bring  a letter  guaranteeing  them 
to  be  ‘genuine  travellers’  (freely  given  by  any  Santa  Ee  station-master). 


Before  reaching  (1320  M.)  Ash  Fork  (Rail.  Restaurant)  we  thread 
tiie  rocky  Johnson^s  Canon. 

From  Ash  Fork  to  Ph(enix  (194  M.),  Santa  Fd,  Prescott.,  and  Phoenix  Rail- 
way in  9 hrs.  — 39  M.  Jerome  Junction.,  for  Jerome.,  with  the  huge  United 
Verde  Copper  Mines.,  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world  (annual  protit 
about  $ 10,000,000)^  57  M.  Prescott  (5300  ft.),  in  the  midst  of  a rich  mineral 
region ; 123  M.  Congress  Junction.,  for  Congress.  — 194  M.  Phoenix,  see  p.  588. 

At  (1347  M.)  Seligman  (5219  ft.)  the  time  changes  from  ‘Moun- 
tain’ to  ‘Pacific’  standard  (1  hr.  slower;  comp.  p.  xviii).  The  country 
now  becomes  more  broken,  with  wide  lava  beds  and  frequent  rock- 
formations. 

From  (1385  M.)  Peach  Springs  (Railway  Restaurant;  no  hotel, 
but  lodgings  may  be  found)  another  trail  (too  hot  for  summer-travel) 
leads  through  the  Diamond  Creek  Canon  to  (23  M.)  the  Grand  Canon 
(p.  522),  descending  gradually  from  a height  of  4780  ft.  to  the  level 
of  the  Colorado  River  (2000  ft.).  The  view  is  limited  to  the  river 
and  its  opposite  wall.  Carriages  may  be  obtained  at  Peach  Springs. 

At  (1403  M.)  Tinnaka  we  pass  a new  Government  Indian  school 
on  the  right.  1408  M.  Hackberry  (3520  ft.),  in  a mining  district. 
From  (1435  M.)  Kingman  (Railway  Restaurant)  the  Arizona  and  Utah 
R.  R.  runs  to  (26  M.)  Chloride^  whence  stage  and  horseback  routes 
lead  to  the  rich  mining  districts  of  (28  M.)  the  White  Hills;  (51  M.) 
Eldorado  Canon,  (66  M.)  Rioville,  (83  M.)  St.  Thomas,  and  (96  M.) 
Overton. 

1485  M.  Pocock  (formerly  Mellen')  is  the  last  station  in  Arizona, 
and  just  beyond  it  we  cross  the  wide  Colorado  River  by  a noble 
cantilever  bridge  1100  ft.  long,  and  enter  California.  1497  M. 
Needles  (Railway  Restaurant,  with  bedrooms)  is  so  named  from  the 
curious  pinnacles  of  purple  porphyry  and  trachytic  granite,  which 
have  been  for  many  miles  in  sight,  15  M.  to  the  S.  Our  train  now 
runs  to  the  W.  across  the  great  Mojave  Desert  (‘Mohahvd’),  an 
elevated  sandy  plateau,  interspersed  with  salt  lakes  and  alkali  tracts, 
with  little  vegetation  except  yucca-palms,  small  pinons  (nut-pines,' 


to  San  Francisco,  HANFORD.  92.  Route,  o2o 

Finns  monophylla),  junipers,  and  sage-brush.  Mountains  are  seen 
to  the  N.  in  the  distance. 

From  (1528  M.)  Goffs  a branch-line  runs  to  the  N.  to  (29  M.) 
Barnwell  and  (45  M.)  Ivanpah,  1588  M.  Bagdad  (785  ft.;  lunch- 
counter).  From  (1612  M.)  Ludlow  a branch-line  runs  to  the  S.  to 
(8  M.)  Camp  Rochester, 

At  (1666  M.)  Barstow  (2210  ft. ; Railway  Restaurant,  with  bed- 
rooms) the  through-train  divides,  one  section  going  to  Los  Angeles 
(see  R.  93). 

The  main  line  to  San  Francisco  continues  to  the  W.  through  the 
Mojave  Desert,  here  bordered  by  low  mountains  rich  in  minerals. 
1699  M.  Kramer  (2480  ft.). 

Fkom  Kramer  to  Johannesburg,  28  M.,  Randshurg  Railway  in  IV2  lir. 
Tin's  line  serves  the  wonderful  mining  district  of  Randsburg^  where  are 
found  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  platinum,  antimony,  sulphur,  borax, 
asbestos,  and  fuller’s  earth.  From  (:28  M.)  Johannesburg  stages  run  to  Bal- 
larat and  Randshurg. 

We  now  cross  the  vast  bed  of  a dry  lake,  and  at  (1737  M.) 
Mojave  we  join  the  track  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway,  which  our 
train  follows  to  (1805  M.)  Bakersfield  (see  p.  565).  Beyond  this 
point  the  Santa  Fe  Railway  has  its  own  line  into  San  Francisco, 
more  or  less  parallel  with  that  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  (R.  97). 

1870  M.  Corcoran  lies  2 M.  to  the  E.  of  Lake  Tulare  (see  p.  565). 
The  country  between  here  and  the  mountain-ranges  on  the  E.  and  S. 
is  still  almost  unexplored,  and  is  inhabited  by  the  Mariposa  and 
Moquelumnan  Indians,  whose  hand-work,  in  bowls  and  baskets,  is 
highly  valued  by  collectors. 

From  Corcoran  a loop-line  runs  to  the  E.  and  then  to  the  K.  and 
W.,  crossing  King's  River  and  regaining  the  main  line  at  (71  M.)  Fresno 
(see  below).  25  M.  Calva- Visalia  (Palace  Hotel,  $2),  on  this  loop,  one  of  the 
earliest  towns  that  was  settled  by  Americans  in  the  State  (1^52).  It  is 
the  most  convenient  stai’ting-point  for  excursions  to  the  High  Sierra  on 
the  E.  (see  p.  5(54).  Stages  leave  daily  in  summer  for  the  various  parks 
and  peaks.  The  Government  road  (^  M.)  to  the  National  Sequoia  Park 
affords  a delightful  drive,  and  the  round  trip  from  Visalia,  with  3 days  in 
the  Park,  costs  § 35.  To  the  K.  and  W.  is  the  G^eral  Grant  National 
Park.  To  the  N.E.  are  King's  River  and  Kern  River  Canons^  and  Mt.  Whiiin^y 
(15,084  ft.),  the  highest  peak  in  the  country  outside  of  Alaska.  The  ascent 
is  not  difficult,  and  a splendid  *View  is  obtained  from  its  summit.  Three 
weeks  can  he  given  pleasantly  to  this  region.  Parties  are  made  up  at 
Visalia  and  fitted  out  with  animals,  guides,  and  camping  equipment,  at  a 
cost  of  S 2V2-3  a day, 

1887  M.  Hanford^  a well-built  little  town,  is  tbe  centre  of  a stock- 
raising,  dairy-farming,  and  fruit-growing  region.  At  (1895  M.)  Baton 
are  tbe  offices  of  tbe  Laguna  de  Tache  Ranch  of  60,000  acres.  — 
917  M.  Fresno,^  also  a station  on  tbe  Southern  Pacific  line  (p.  564). 

Farther  on  we  cross  tbe  San  Joaquin  River  and  many  of  its 
branches,  traversing  a land  rich  in  grain  and  cattle.  Beyond  (1975  M.) 
Merced  (p.  564)  are  vast  fields  of  the  famous  ‘Merced  Sweets’  (sweet 
potatoes  or  yams);  here  grows,  too,  tbe  ‘bubacb’,  from  which  insect- 
powder  is  made.  We  cross  tbe  Merced^  Tuolumne^  and  Stanislaus 
rivers,  the  names  of  which  recall  Bret  Harte’s  stories  and  poems ; the 


526  Route  93, 


SAN  BERNARDINO. 


great  placer-mining  district  of  the  Argonauts  of  1848  and  1849  stret- 
ches away  to  the  N.E.  Passing  (2040  M.)  Stockton  (p.  501),  we 
turn  more  to  the  W.,  with  Mt.  Diahlo  on  the  left,  and  the  N.  arm  of 
San  Francisco  Bay  (San  Suisun  and  San  Pablo  Bays)  on  the  right. 
After  passing  (2090  M.)  Muir,  the  train  crosses  a huge  viaduct, 
giving  a grand  view  over  Alhambra  Valley  to  the  above-named  bays 
aad  the  Straits  of  Carquinez.  At  (2092  M.)  Franklin  we  run  into 
the  famous  tunnel  of  that  name  (6000  ft.  long),  coming  out  near 
(2094  M.)  Fernandez. 

Our  train  passes  through  (2110  M.)  Port  Richmond,  the  former 
terminus  of  the  line,  and  runs  to  the  S.  along  the  bay  to  (21  M.) 
Oakland  (p.  502)  and  (2114  M.)  Oakland  Pier,  whence  the  ferry- 
boat carries  us,  in  20  minutes,  to  — 

2118  M.  San  Francisco  (p.  543). 


93.  From  Kansas  City  to  Los  Angeles. 

1807  M.  Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  Fft  R.  R.  in  55  hrs.  (fares,  etc., 
as  above).  Through-carriages  run  by  this  route  from  Chicago  to  (2265  M.) 
Los  Angeles  (fare  $62  50^  sleeper  $14^  tourist-car  $7)  and  to  San  Diego. 

From  Kansas  City  to  (1666  M.)  Barstow  (p.  525),  see  R.  92  b. 

From  Barstow  our  line  runs  to  the  S.,  through  the  desert,  follow- 
ing the  course  of  the  Mojave  River;  in  the  distance  are  seen  dry  lakes 
and  extinct  volcanic  peaks.  At  (1711  M.)  Hesperia  are  large  groves 
of  yucca.  From  (1722  M.)  Summit  (3820  ft.)  we  descend  the  Cajon 
Pass,  with  its  stunted  pines  and  scanty  vegetation.  To  the  W.  are 
seen  Mt.  San  Antonio  (p.  527),  to  the  E.  (farther  off)  the  peaks  of 
San  Bernardino  (11,600  ft.)  and  San  Gorgonio. 

1747  M.  San  Bernardino  (1075  ft.;  Stewart,  $2-3V2;  St.Charles, 
$ 2-21/2))  3-  busy  but  uninteresting  town  of  (1900)  6150  inhabitants, 
well  situated  near  the  E.  margin  of  the  valley  of  its  own  name.  It 
was  originally  laid  out  by  Mormons  in  1851,  and  has  prospered  as 
the  railway- centre  of  a rich  fruit-growing  region.  Pleasant  drives 
may  be  taken  to  Arrowhead  Hot  Springs  (2005  ft.),  on  a level  bench 
on  the  mountain  side,  famous  for  their  sulphur  curative  qualities, 
and  to  the  Squirrel  Inn,  on  the  crest  of  the  mountains.  San  Bernar- 
dino is  the  junction  of  a line  to  San  Diego  and  National  City  (see 
below). 

From  San  Bernardino  to  (141  M.)  San  Diego  and  (147  M.)  National 
City,  railway  in  5 hrs.  At  (4  M.)  Colton  (p.  586)  this  line  crosses  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railway  (see  R.  103).  6 M.  Highgrove  is  the  junction  of  a 

branch-line  to  (18  M.)  Perris,  a small  settlement  supplying  an  agricultural 
and  a mining  district.  ■ [From  Perris  a line  runs  to  (19  M.)  San  Jacinto, 
passing  through  a country  that  is  one  great  grain-field.  From  (17  M.)  Hemet 
on  this  latter  line  stages  start  for  Idyllwild  and  Strawberry  Valley  Lodge, 
a favorite  summer  camping-ground  in  the  San  Gorgonio  mountains.  Near 
San  Jacinto  is  the  small  Indian  village  of  Sobobo,  one  of  the  scenes  in 
‘Ramona’.  — From  Perris  another  branch-line  goes  to  (14  31.)  Elsinore, 
a summer-resort  on  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  with  many  hot  springs  of 
curative  repute,  in  a mountainous  region  rich  in  minerals  and  in  One  clay 


MONROVIA. 


94.  Boute.  527 


for  pottery,  and  to  (26  M.)  Temecula,  famous  in  ‘Ramona’  and  in  the  essays 
of  Mrs.  Helen  Hunt  Jackson.]  . -u  • 

9 M Riverside  (875  ft.  ^ Glenwood,  a building  of  Spanish-Mission 

architecture,  tastefully  furnished  and  well-managed,  from  $3^  Reynolds, 
commercial,  from  $ 2),  a town  of  (1900)  7973  inhah.,  offers,  with  the  region 
around,  a notable  instance  of  the  transformation  of  an  uninviting  desert 
into  a garden,  by  virtue  of  industry  and  courage.  It  is  the  centre  of  the 
seedless  navel  orange  culture,  the  groves  nearly  covering  a county  about 
the  size  of  Massachusetts.  The  original  tree  from  which  these  groves  h^e 
sprunc^  is  guarded  by  an  iron  railing,  within  the  town.  Over  2,500,000 
boxes^’of  oranges  (worih  $ 2,000,000)  are  exported  annually,  each  box  con- 
taining from  80  to  200  oranges.  Lemons  are  also  cultivated  with  success. 
The  town  is  beautifully  laid  out,  with  wide  streets  bordered  by  ornamental 
trees.  ^'Magnolia  Avenue  is  10  M.  long  and  130  ft.  wide,  with  double  rows 
of  pepper-trees.  No  bars  nor  ‘saloons’  are  allowed  in  the  town,  and  Brad- 
street’ ranks  it  as  the  richest  community,  per  caput,  in  the  country.  She7^- 
man  Institute,  a famous  Indian  school,  is  situated  here.  The  Albert  S.  White 
Park  within  the  city  limits,  contains  an  unrivalled  collection  of  cacti.  The 
attractive  Public  Library  is  built  in  the  Mission  style.  There  are  many 
most  delightful  drives  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  give  the  visitor,  along 
with  the  views  of  the  San  Bernardino  Range,  perfect  pictures  of  every  stage 
of  orange-growing.  Riverside  is  a favourite  resort  of  tourists  and  health- 
seekers,  the  air  being,  curiously  enough,  at  once  stinaulating  and  soothing. 

From  (24  M.)  Corona,  once  known  as  South  Riverside  (600  ft.),  we  follow 

the  windings  of  the  Santa  Ana  River  through  its  wild  and  lovely  canon  to 
(47  M.)  Orange,  where  we  join  the  line  from  Los  Angeles  to  San  Diego  (p.  572). 

Beyond  San  Bernardino  our  line  continues  towards  tRe  W.  Be- 
tween (1759  M.)  Etiwanda  and  (1763  M.)  North  Cucamonga  stretch 
immense  vineyards,  and  good  wine  is  made  at  the  latter  place. 
1767  M.  Upland  (1210  ft),  formerly  North  Ontario,  is  a great  ship- 
ping point  for  the  citrus- growing  district  of  which  it  is  the  centre. 
An  electric  tramway  runs  to  (2*/2  M-)  Ontario  (p.  586)  through 
^Euclid  Avenue,  which  is  planted  with  eucalyptus  and  pepper-trees. 
The  ascent  of  Mt.  San  Antonio  (‘Old  Baldy’;  8752  ft.)  may  he  made 
from  Upland  by  driving  for  9 M.  through  San  Antonio  Canon,  and 
then  continuing  the  ascent  on  a burro  (p.  571). 

From  (1772  M.)  North  Pomona,  a suburb  of  Pomona  (junction 
with  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway,  see  p.  586),  the  line  runs  between 
vineyards,  orange-groves,  and  olive-groves,  broken  by  desert  wastes. 
1780  M.  Glendora,  a centre  for  citrus  fruit  and  berries.  ^ 1783  M. 
Azusa  (Azusa  Hotel,  $2^2}  ^ San  Gabriel  Valley, 

with  its  numerous  streams  giving  good  fishing  for  large  mountain 
trout.  1788  M.  Monrovia  (Grand  View  Hotel,  from  $ 2),  where  our 
line  crosses  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  (see  p.  586),  is  also  con- 
nected with  Los  Angeles  by  electric  cars.  1792  M.  Santa  Anita  is 
often  made  the  starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Wilson  (p.  570). 
1794  M.  Lamanda  Park  (1738  ft.). 

1797  M.  Pasadena,  and  thence  to  — 

1807  M.  Los  Angeles  (Arcade  Station),  see  p.  566. 


528 


94.  From  Denver  to  Salt  Lake  City  and  Ogden, 

a.  Vi^  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad. 

753  M.  Railway  in  26-28  hrs.  (fare  $ 18;  sleeper  $5).  Through-cars  run 
on  tliis  line  to  SOfii  Fr^-ncisco  via  Lcadvillo  (S66  p.  538)^  l)ut  lovors  of 
the  picturesque  may  choose  the  narrow-gauge  route  over  Marshall  Fa^s 
uniting  with  the  other  line  at  Grand  Junction  (comp.  pp.  536,  538)  ' ’ 

The  somewhat  ambitious  title  of  '‘Scenic  Line  of  the  World\  adopted 
by  this  railway,  is  much  more  justified  by  facts  than  is  usually  the  case 
with  such  assumptions , for  the  railway  actually  passes  through  some  of 
the  grandest  scenery  in  the  United  States,  and  presents  many  features  pro- 
bably unequalled  on  any  other  railway. 

Denver^  see  p.  513.  The  line  runs  towards  the  S.,  parallel  with 
the  Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  (p.  517).  To  the  right  flows 
the  Platte  River ^ while  in  the  distance  are  the  dim  snowy  peaks  of  the 
Rocky  Mts.  (comp.  p.  513).  25  M.  Sedalia  (5835  ft.);  33  M.  Castle 

Rock  (6220  ft.),  so  named  from  a.  rock  that  rises  from  the  plain  to  the 
left.  Pike’s  Peak  (p.  530)  may  now  he  seen  in  front,  to  the  right.  — 
43  M.  Larkspur  is  the  station  for  Perry  Park,  with  its  fantastic  rock 
formations.  To  the  right,  about  8M.  farther  on,  rises  the  Casa  Blanca^ 
a huge  white  rock  1000  ft.  long  and  200  ft.  high.  — 52  M.  Palmer 
Lake  (7240  ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant),  on  the  watershed  between  the 
Platte,  flowing  N.  to  the  Missouri,  and  the  Arkansas,  flowing  S.  to 
the  Mississippi.  Glen  Park  (hotel),  ‘Colorado’s  Chautauqua’,  lies 
^/2  M.  to  the  S.  A road  leads  to  the  S.W.  from  Palmer  Lake  to 
( 35  M.)  Manitou  Park  (p.  537).  — The  line  traverses  cattle  and 
sheep  ranches.  The  snowy  mountains  re-appear  from  their  temporary 
concealment  behind  the  foot-hills.  — 62  M.  Busted  (6595  ft.) 
Several  fantastic  rocks  are  seen  to  the  left.  67  M.  Edgerton  (6420  ft.) 
is  the  nearest  station  to  Monument  Park  (p.  531).  — As  we  approach 
Colorado  Springs  we  have  a splendid  view,  to  the  right,  of  Pike’s 
Peak  (p.  530)  and  the  Gateway  of  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  (p.  530). 
To  the  left  lies  Monument  Creek  Park  (p.  529). 

75  M.  Colorado  Springs  (6000  ft.;  ^The  Antlers,  R.  from  $11/2; 
Alamo,  $21/2-4,  R.  from  $1;  Plaza,  from  $21/2,  R.  from  $1;  Alta 
Vista,  R.  from  $1;  ^Broadmoor  Hotel,  connected  with  the  Casino, 
p.  529,  $3-4),  a city  of  (1900)  21,085  inhab.,  on  an  elevated 
plateau  near  the  E.  base  of  Pike’s  Peak,  is  pleasantly  laid  out,  with 
wide  tree-shaded  streets,  and  resembles  a well-kept  and  well-to-do 
New  England  country-town.  It  is  the  principal  health-resort  of 
Colorado,  and  has  become  the  permanent  residence  of  many  who  are 
unable  to  bear  the  changeable  climate  of  England  or  the  E.  coast. 
Tramways  traverse  the  chief  streets  and  run  to  various  suburban  points. 

Colorado  Springs  was  founded  in  1871,  though  a settlement  had  been 
made  somewhat  earlier  at  Colorado  City  (‘Old  Town’),  a small  industrial 
colony  (2914  inhab.),  2 M.  to  the  N.W.  (comp.  p.  537).  No  manufacturing 
is  carried  on  at  Colorado  Springs,  which  has  been  carefully  kept  as  a 
residential  and  educational  centre,  and  no  ‘saloons’  are  permitted.  It  is 
the  pleasantest  headquarters  for  exploring  the  surrounding  district  (Manitou 
and  Pike’s  Peak  included). 


Su£iia-Tista> 


fTzdieT-jq[B'}sa;^^oa0  , S9qe([  ocau^'Bjy^ 


to  Ogden. 


COLORADO  SPRINGS. 


94.  Route.  529 


The  *View  of  the  mountains  from  Colorado  Springs,  well  seen  from 
Cascade  Avenue,  near  Colorado  College,  is  very  grand.  Pike's  Peak  (p.  530) 
dominates  the  scene,  while  to  the  S.  of  it  (named  from  right  to  left) 
rise  Cameron  Cone  (10,685  ft.),  Sachett  Mt..,  Bald  Mt.  (12,347  ft.),  Mt.  Rosa 
(11,427  ft.),  and  Cheyenne  Mt.  (see  below).  To  the  right  of  Pike’s  Peak  opens 
the  Ute  Pass  (p.  537),  and  still  farther  to  the  right  lies  the  Garden  of 
the  Gods  (p.  530).  The  Cheyenne  Canons  (p.  530)  lie  between  Cheyenne  Mt. 
and  Mt.  Rosa.  In  the  foreground  is  the  high -lying  plateau  known  as 
the  Mesa  (Span,  ‘table-land’).  To  the  E.  and  S.  of  the  town  spreads  the 
illimitable  prairie,  which  in  certain  states  of  the  atmosphere  looks  start- 
lingly like  the  ocean  — an  illusion  intensified  by  the  moving  shadows, 
the  smoke  of  distant  locomotives , and  the  outcrop  of  lines  of  rocks  re- 
sembling breakers. 

The  Climate  of  Colorado  Springs  resembles  that  of  Davos  and,  like  it, 
is  especially  good  for  consumption  or  as  a pi’eventive  for  those  predis- 
posed to  that  disease.  It  is  also  well  suited  to  persons  suffering  from 
nervous  exhaustion,  malarial  poisoning,  and  other  debilitating  affections, 
but  is  usually  harmful  to  the  aged  and  to  those  with  organic  affections  of 
the  heart  or  nerves.  It  has  more  wind  and  dust  than  Davos,  but  also  more 
sunshine  and  dryness ; and  as  the  ground  is  bare  most  of  the  winter, 
there  is  no  period  of  melting  snow  to  prevent  the  invalid  staying  all  the 
year  round.  Riding,  driving,  and  the  usual  winter -sports  can  be  freely 
indulged  in.  There  is  no  rain  from  Sept,  till  April.  In  the  winter  (Nov.- 
Mar.)  of  1883-89  the  average  temperature  at  Davos  was  26^^  Fahr.,  of  Colora  do 
Springs  30^^;  the  latter  had  300  hrs.  more  sunshine  than  the  former.  The 
prevailing  winds  at  Colorado  Springs  are  S.E.  and  N. ; the  average  per- 
centage of  humidity  is  47.  The  town  is  sheltered  by  the  foot-hills,  except 
to  the  S.  E.,  where  it  lies  open  to  the  great  plains;  and,  being  situated 
where  they  meet  the  mountains,  it  enjoys  an  openness  and  free  supply  of 
fresh  air  like  the  sea-shore,  without  its  dampness.  The  soil  is  dry  sand 
and  gravel,  with  a shallow  top-layer  of  garden  soil.  There  are  no  springs 
beneath  the  town-site.  Good  water  is  brought  from  the  mountains,  and 
the  sewerage  system  is  excellent.  The  accommodation  for  invalids  is 
comfortable  and  there  are  several  good  physicians,  one  of  whom  is  English 
(Dr.  Solly).  No  invalid  should  come  or  remain  without  medical  advice. 

Colorado  Springs  is  a capital  centre  for  innumerable  attractive 
drives  and  excursions.  Among  the  most  prominent  buildings  are 
Colorado  College  (650  students)  and  its  preparatory  school,  Cutler 
Academy;  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Deaf,  Dumb,  and  Blind;  the 
National  Printers^  Home]  the  Opera  House]  and  the  Hotels  and 
Hospitals.  Helen  Hunt  Jackson  (-H.  H.’ ; 1831-85)  is  buried  in  Ever- 
green Cemetery.  Several  charming  Parks  have  been  laid  out  within 
the  city  itself  and  on  the  surrounding  bluffs,  the  latest  addition  being 
that  on  Monument  Creek,  with  its  three  springs,  on  the  W.  side  of 
the  city.  The  principal  clubs  are  the  El  Paso  Club,  the  Pike's  Peak 
Club,  the  New  Elks,  the  Oolf  Club,  and  the  Country  Club  (polo,  golf, 
tennis,  etc.;  see  p.  530). 

Excursions  from  Colorado  Springs. 

(1) .  Palmer  Park,  formerly  Austin  Bluffs,  about  3^2  M.  to  the  N.E., 
is  connected  with  the  city  by  two  boulevards  and  commands  a m.agnificent 
*View  of  the  Rocky  Mts.,  the  city,  and  the  plains.  The  Spanish  Peaks, 
100  M.  to  the  S.,  are  clearly  discernible.  To  the  W.  are  the  peaks  mentioned 
above.  To  the  N.  is  the  Divide,  ,or  watershed  between  Colorado  Springs 
and  Denver. 

(2) .  Cheyenne  Mt.  and  the  Cheyenne  Canons.  The  foot  of  Cheyenne  Mt. 
(9407  ft.),  which  rises  5 M.  to  the  S.W.  of  Colorado  Springs,  is  easiJy 
reached  in  Vi  hy  electric  tramway  (10  c.),  passing  near  the  pleasant 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  34 


530  Route  94. 


PIKE’S  PEAK. 


From  Denver 


quarters  of  the  Country  Club  (p.  529)  and  the  "Broadmoor  Casino^  with 
its  boating-lake,  a good  restaurant  (D.  $ 1.25),  hall-rooms,  and  orchestral 
concerts.  A group  of  attractive  cottages  is  clustered  round  it.  Cheyenne 

Mt.  Road  leads  across  the  flank  of  the  mountain,  commanding  exquisite 
views,  in  which  the  brilliant  red  rocks,  the  blue  sky,  the  green  trees, 
and  the  dazzling  white  snow  offer  wonderful  combinations  of  colour.  The 
road  is  well  kept,  but  is  steep  and  narrow,  so  that  steady  horses,  driver, 
and  head  are  desirable.  It  goes  on  to  (SOM.)  Cripple  Creek  (p.  531)  and  (22M.) 
Seven  Lake^  (10,350  ft.  •,  inn,  sometimes  closed),  but  many  visitors  turn  back  at 
the  (2V2  M.)  Horseshoe  Curve.  The  summit  of  the  mountain  may  be  reached 
by  a path  (1  M.)  diverging  to  the  left  near  the  saw-mill.  — The  ’^Cheyenne 
Canons  are  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and  the  electric  tramway  ends 
near  their  entrance.  The  "S.  Canon  (adm.  50  c.,  on  Sun.  25  c.)  may  be 
followed  on  foot  to  (1  M.)  the  ''■'Falls,  which  descend  500  ft.  in  seven  leaps. 
From  the  top  of  the  flights  of  steps  we  may  ascend  to  the  left  to  the 
brink  of  the  canon  ("View)  and  go  on  thence  to  the  above-motioned  road, 
where  our  carriage  may  be  ordered  to  meet  us.  The  H.  Canon  (fine  falls, 
pools,  and  cliffs)  may  be  followed  for  3-4  M.  A good  view  of  both  canons 
is  obtained  from  the  Cripple  Creek  Railway  (p.  531). 

(3) .  Garden  of  the  (>ods  (5M.).  The  road  leads  to  the  N.W.  across  the 
Mesa  (p.  529),  passing  (4  M.)  the  entrance  to  '^Olen  Eyrie,  a private  estate 
(visitors  admitted),  containing  fantastic  rocky  scenery  (Cathedral  Rock, 
Major  Domo,  etc.).  About  1 M.  farther  on  we  reach  the  * Gateway  of 
the  Garden  of  the  Gods^  consisting  of  two  enormous  masses  of  bright 
red  rock,  330  ft.  high  and  separated  just  enough  for  the  roadway  to  pass 
between.  The  ^Garden  of  the  Gods  is  a tract  of  land  about  500  acres  in 
extent,  thickly  strewn  with  grotesque  rocks  and  cliffs  of  red  and  white 
sandstone.  Among  the  chief  features  are  the  Cathedral  Spires,  the  Balanced 
Rock,  etc.  On  reaching  the  cross-roads  on  the  other  side  of  the  Garden  we  may 
either  proceed  to  the  right  to  (P/z  M.)  Maniiou  Springs  (see  below)  or  re- 
turn to  the  left,  via  Colorado  City  (p.  537),  to  (4V2  M.)  Colorado  Springs. 

(4) .  Manitou  (6320  ft.  ^ Cliff  Ho.,  $3-5;  The  Mansions,  $2V2-5;  Barker, 
$ 3-5 ; Norris,  Grand  View,  Pittsburg,  $ 2-4 ; Sunnyside,  Buxton,  $ 2-3),  situated 
in  a small  valley  among  the  spurs  of  Pike’s  Peak,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Ute  Pass  (p.  537),  is  largely  frequented  for  its  fine  scenery  and  its  effervescing 
springs  of  soda  and  iron.  It  is  reached  from  Colorado  Springs  by  the  railway 
(via  Colorado  City,  6 M.;  10  c.),  by  electric  tramway  (10  c.),  or  by  driving 
across  the  Mesa  or  through  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  (ca.  5 M. ; comp,  above). 
The  waters,  which  belong  to  the  group  of  weak  compound  carbonated 
soda  waters  and  resemble  those  of  Ems,  are  beneficial  in  dyspepsia,  diseases 
of  the  kidneys,  and  consumption.  The  chief  springs  are  the  Navajo, 
Manitou,  Shoshone,  TAttle  Chief,  and  Iron.  The  water  is  very  palatable  and 
is  used  both  for  drinking  and  bathing;  there  is  a well-equipped  Bath 
House.  Among  the  numerous  pleasant  points  within  reach  of  Manitou  are 
the  picturesque  '^Ute  Pass  (comp.  p.  537),  with  the  fine  Rainbow  Falls  (IV2  M. 
from  Manitou)  and  the  Grand  Caverns  (adm.  $ 1 ; fine  stalactites  and  stalag- 
mites, often  gorgeously  coloured);  Williams  Canon,  with  (1  M.)  the  Cave 
of  the  Winds  (S  1;  these  two  walks  easily  combined  by  a trail  near  the  entrance 
of  the  Cave  of  the  Winds);  the  (3  M.)  Red  Canon;  Ruxton's  Glen  and 
EnglemarCs  Canon;  the  (31/2  M.)  Garden  of  the  Gods  (see  above);  Monument  Park 
(p.  531) ; the  Cheyenne  Canons  (see  above ; 8 M.) ; and  the  Seven  Lakes,  (see  above ; 
9 M.  by  trail,  25  M.  by  road).  Manitou  Park  (p.  537) , at  the  head  of  the 
Ute  Pass,  is  20  M,  distant. 

(5) .  *Pike’s  Peak  (14,107  ft.),  one  of  the  best-known  summits  of  the 
Rocky  Mts.,  rears  its  snowy  crest  about  6 M.  to  the  W.  of  Colorado  Springs 
and  just  above  Manitou-.  It  is  usually  ascended  by  the  *Manitou  and  Pike’s 
Peak  Railway,  which  was  built  upon  the  Abt  cog-wheel  system  and  opened 
in  1891.  The  railway  begins  in  Engleman’s  Canon,  a little  above  Manitou 
Iron  Springs  (p.  537).  Its  length  is  8^/4  M.,  with  a total  ascent  of  7500  ft.  or 
an  average  of  846  ft.  per  mile  (steepest  gradient  1 : 4).  The  ascent  (return- 
fare  $5)  is  made  in  about  3hrs.,  including  a stoppage  at  the  -Halfway 
House  (meal  75c.),  a pleasant  little  hotel  in  Ruxton  Park,  frequented  by 
summer- visitors.  — The  Carriage  Road  to  the  top  of  Pikes  Peak 


to  Ogden. 


MONUMENT  PARK. 


94.  Route.  531 


begins  at  Cascade.^  6 M.  from  Manitou  (railway  5 comp.  p.  537).  It  is  17  M. 
long  and  has  a comparatively  easy  gradient  (carr.  to  the  top  and  back  in 
8 hrs.,  $5  each).  — The  Bridle  Path  (6  hrs.  on  foot  or  on  horseback; 
horse  $6)  begins  near  the  railway-station  and  ascends  through  Engle- 
mans  Canon  (trail  well  defined;  guide  unnecessary  for  experts).  Another 
trail,  472  M.  long,  now  seldom  used,  ascends  from  the  Seven  Lakes 
(p.  530).  — The  summit  is  occupied  by  a small  Inn^  open  in  summer  (meals 
$ 1),  containing  a large  telescope.  The  '-View  is  superb,  embracing  thou- 
sands of  square  miles  of  mountain  and  plain.  The  Spanish  Peaks  (p.  532) 
and  the  grand  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range  (including  Sierra  Blanca)  are  seen 
to  the  S.  and  Long’s  Peak  to  the  N.,  while  the  other  peaks  visible  include 
Mt.  Lincoln  (N.),  Gray’s  Peak,  Mt.  Bross,  and  the  neighbouring  mountains 
named  at  p.  529.  Denver,  Pueblo,  Colorado  Springs,  and  Manitou  are  all 
visible.  The  ascent  of  Pike’s  Peak  can  be  safely  made  in  summer  only, 
owing  to  the  snow ; the  mountain-railway  begins  running  in  June. 

(6) .  From  Colorado  Springs  to  Cripple  Creek,  46  M.,  Colorado  Springs 
(k  Cripple  Creek  District  Railway  in  2^/4  hrs.  (fare  $2.75;  return -fare, 
good  for  ten  days,  $5,  or  for  passengers  by  the  transcontinental  trains, 
$ 2.75;  through-carriages  from  Denver  to  Cripple  Creek,  observation-car 
from  Colorado  Springs).  This  railway,  popularly  known  as  ‘The  Short  Line’, 
connects  Colorado  Springs  with  the  rich  Cripple  Creek  Gold  District,  and 
affords  a trip  of  singular  attractiveness  in  its  views  of  scenery,  its  glimpses 
of  gold-mining,  and  the  engineering  achievement  of  its  construction.  It 
winds  round  the  rim  of  the  canons,  curving  in  quick  loops  and  sudden 
returns  almost  on  itself,  and  passing  through  nine  tunnels.  — Leaving  Co- 
lorado Springs,  the  train  ascends  along  the  margin  of  North  Cheyenne 
Canon  (p.  530)  to  (7  M.)  Point  Sublime  (7159  ft.),  affording  fine  views  of  the 
canon,  Colorado  Springs,  and  Crescent  Lake.  On  the  right,  far  above  us,  are 
the  Silver  Cascade  Falls.  At  (11  M.)  Fairview  (7926  ft.)  we  reach  the  junction 
of  the  N.  Canon  with  the  South  Cheyenne  Canon^  along  the  edge  of  which 
we  now  mount,  passing  (15  M.)  St.  Peter's  and  (18  M.)  Duffields^  to  (21  M.) 
Summit  (9918  ft.),  where  the  view  is  singularly  impressive.  Along  the 
line  we  have  seen  many  favourite  camping-grounds  by  the  side  of  prettv 
mountain -streams,  which  give  abundant  trout  - fishing.  At  (30  M)  Clyd'e 
(372  M:.  from  Seven  Lakes.,  see  above)  is  Cathedral  Park.,  with  fantastic  rock- 
formations  and  a cavern  of  perpetual  ice.  At  (40  M.)  Camernw  (the  junction 
of  the  Midland  Terminal  Railway  to  Divide,  p.  537)  our  line  forks,  the  branch 
to  the  right  crossing  Hoosier  Pass  (10,360  ft.)  and  then  dropping  suddenly  to 
(46  M.)  Cripple  Creek  (see  below),  while  the  left  branch  crosses  the  lower 
pass  into  (45  M.)  Victor  (see  below).  Both  passes  afford  views  of  the  W.  slope 
of  Pike’s  Peak  (p.  530)  and  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range  (p.  535). 

Cripple  Creek  (9800  ft. ; National  Hotel,  R.  from  $ 1)  has  changed  since 
1891  from  a small  cattle-ranch  into  one  of  the  chief  gold-mining  towns  in 
the  country , with  (1900)  10,147  inhab.  and  numerous  substantial  build- 
ings. The  annual  value  of  its  gold-production  is  now  about  $20,000,000. 
It  is  connected  by  electric  tramway  with  Victor  (The  Baltimore,  $272), 
another  important  mining- centre,  with  4986  inhab. ; and  a circle-tour  by  the 
‘High  Line’  and  the  ‘Low  Line’  (fare  25  c.)  gives  an  excellent  survey  of 
the  various  gold-camps  of  the  district. 

(7) .  Monument  Park  {Monument  Hotel),  ati*act  of  curiously  eroded  sand- 
stone rocks,  similar  to  those  of  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  (see  p.  530),  may  be 
reached  from  Colorado  Springs  by  road  (9  M. ; carr.  $ 6-8)  or  by  railway  to 
Edgerton  (p.  528),  from  which  it  is  1/2  M.  distant. 

^ Among  other  points  of  interest  near  Colorado  Springs  are  Bear  Creek 
Canon,  3 M.  to  theW. ; My  Garden  (so  named  by  H.  H.),  4 M.  to  the  S.W., 
on  the  slope  of  Cheyenne  Mt.  (view);  Templeton's  Gap  and  Colorado 
Springs  Garden  Ranch,  472  M.  to  the  N.E.;  and  Athol,  a lovelv  glen 

to  the  FT.  of  Glen  Eyrie  (p.  530). 

Beyond  Colorado  Springs  our  line  continues  to  run  towards  the  S. 
To  the  right  we  see  Cheyenne  Mt.  (p.  529);  to  the  left  extends  the 
boundless  prairie.  Stations  unimportant. 


532  Route  9i. 


ALAMOSA. 


From  Denver 


119  M.  Pueblo  (4665  ft;  Union  Depot  Hotel  4’  Restaurant,  $3, 
meal  75  c.;  Imperial,  $3-4;  Maine,  $3-4;  Royal,  Southern,  $2), 
situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Arkansas  River  and  the  Fontaine 
qui  Bouille  Creek,  is  an  active  commercial  and  industrial  city  of 
28,157  inhah.,  with  smelting  and  steel  works.  It  is  an  important 
railway- centre  and  the  outlet  of  a rich  mining  district  (coal,  iron,  etc.) 
and  also  trades  in  agricultural  products.  The  Mineral  Palace,  a 
curious  building  with  a ceiling  formed  of  28  domes,  contains  speci- 
men s of  all  the  minerals  produced  in  the  State. 

Beyond  Pueblo  -tbe  D.  & R.  G.  R.  R.  runs  due  S.  on  to  (210  M.  from 
Denver)  Trinidad  (p.  519),  where  it  joins  the  main  line  of  the  Atchison, 
Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  (see  R.  92  b). 

Cuchara  Junction  (5940  ft.),  169  M.  from  Denver,  is  the  point  of  diverg- 
ence of  the  Silverton  branch  of  the  D.  & R.  G.  R.  R.,  forming  part  of  the 
‘Around  the  Circle’  tour  mentioned  at  p.  517.  Between  Cuchara  and  (191  M.) 
La  Veta  (7025  ft.)  the  isolated  Spanish  Peaks  (13,620  ft.  and  12,720  ft.)  are 
well  seen  to  the  left  (S.).  Beyond  (195  M.)  Francisco  we  begin  to  ascend 
the  *Veta  Pass,  the  summit  of  which  (207  M.)  is  9390  ft.  above  the  sea.  Two 
engines  are  required  to  draw  the  train  up  the  steep  incline,  and  great  en- 
gineering skill  has  been  shown  in  overcoming  its  difficulties  (maximum 
gradient  1 : 10).  The  most  abrupt  bend  is  known  as  the  Mule-Shoe  Curve. 
To  the  right  rises  Veta  Mt.  (11,175  ft.).  We  now  begin  to  descend  into  the 
■ San  Luis  Valley  or  Park,  the  largest  of  the  Great  Parks  of  Colorado 
(p.  498).  It  is  100  M.  long,  60  BI.  wide,  and  about  7000  ft.  above  the  sea-level, 
and  is  surrounded  by  mountains  11-14,000  ft.  high.  215  M.  Blanca;  221  M. 
Mortimer;  228  M.  Garland  (7935  ft.).  To  the  right  towers  the  triple-peaked 
Blanca  Peak  (14,465  ft.),  the  southernmost  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range 
and  loftiest  of  the  Rocky  Bits.  — 252BI.  Alamosa  (7545  ft. ; Victoria,  $ 3 ; Rail. 
Restaurant),  a brisk  little  town  of  1141  inhab.,  on  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte, 
is  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (68  BI.)  Creede  and  of  another  to  Villa 
Grove  and  Salida  (see  p.  534).  [The  Creede  branch  ascends  along  the  Rio 
Grande  del  Norte.  17  BI.  Monte  Vista  (7665  ft.;  Blanca,  $2-3);  31  BI.  Del 
Norte  (7880  ft.;  Windsor  Ho.,  $ 2);  47  BI.  South  Fork.  Farther  on  (61  BI.) 
we  pass  through  the  * Wagon  Wheel  Gav,  a picturesque  mountain  pass, 
with  Hot  Springs  (Hotel,  $272).  70  BI.  Creede  (^Zang,  $2)  was  one  of  the 
most  wonderful  of  the  silver  cities  of  Colorado,  dating  only  from  the  dis- 
covery of  the  ore  here  in  1891,  but  already  containing  7000  inhab.  and  pro- 
ducing silver  to  the  value  of  $ 4,000,000  in  1892.  Its  ‘boom’,  however, 
soon  gave  out,  and  in  1900  its  population  had  sunk  to  938.1  — From 
Alamosa  our  line  runs  towards  the  S.  266  BI.  La  Java  (‘La  Habra’ ; 7610  ft.) ; 
272  M.  Manassa,  a Blormon  settlement.  — 280  BI.  (7890  ft. ; Palace, 

$ 2)  is  the  junction  of  a line  running  S.  to  (91  BI.)  FspoHola  and  (125  BI.) 
Santa  Fe. 

[The  Espanola  branch  enters  New  Mexico  (p.  533)  at  (12  M.)  Palmilla 
and  traverses  a district  inhabited  mainly  by  Spanish-speaking  Blexicans. 
From  (65  BI.)  Barranca  a stage  runs  to  (H  BI.)  the  hot  springs  of  OjoJJaliente. 
About  6 BI.  farther  on  the  train  enters  the  romantic  "^Comanche  Canon  CCo- 
manchay’).  — 73  BI.  Emludo  (5820  ft.),  where  we  reach  the  Rio  Grande  del 
Norte  (see  above),  is  the  starting-point  for  a visit  to  the  (20  M.)  Puehlo  de 
Taos  (‘Tows’),  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  complete  of  the  cities  of 
the  Pueblo  Indians  (see  p.  Ixvii).  A grand  festival  is  held  here  on  Sept.  80th. 
The  curious  mysteries  celebrated  by  Los  Hermanos  Penitentes  in  Passion 
Week  include  much  self-flagellation  and  culminate  at  Easter  in  a realistic 
drama  of  the  Crucifixion.  — 92  BI.  Espanola  (5590  ft.),  a small  hamlet,  is 
the  S.  terminus  of  the  D.  & R.  G.  R.  R.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Rio 
Grande  is  the  old  Mexican  town  of  Santa  Cruz,  with  a 16th  cent,  church. 
Excursions  may  also  be  made  to  the  (4  M.)  Puehlo  of  San  Juan,  the  Puehlo 
of  Santa  Clara,  fho,  Puehlo  de  Taos  (see  above),  etc.  Espanola  is  connected 
with  (33  M.)  Santa  Fi  (p.  519)  by  extension  of  the  D.  <fe  R.  G.  R.  R.] 


to  Ogden. 


TELLURIDE. 


9d.  Route.  533 


From  Antonito  the  Silver  ton  line  rnns  towards  the  W.,  gradually  as- 
cending from  the  San  Luis  Valley  towards  the  Conejos  Mis.  (‘Conehos’).  We 
repeatedly  cross  and  recross  the  boundary  between  Colorado  and  New 
Mexico  (‘Sunshine  State').  Beyond  (306  M.)  Sublette  the  railway  bends  round 
Phantom  Curve.,  so  called  from  the  spectral  sandstone  rocks  bordering  the 
track.  Below  us  (left)  lies  the  Los  Pinos  Valley.  The  alignment  of  the  railway 
here  is  of  the  most  tortuous  character.  Beyond  (309  M.)  Toltec  we  thread 
a tunnel  and  enter  (315  M.)  the  imposing  "Toltec  Gorge,  the  bottom  of  which 
lies  1500  ft.  below  us.  The  best  view  is  obtained  from  the  bridge  crossed 
soon  after  emerging  from  the  tunnel;  and  just  beyond  this,  to  the  left,  is  a 
Memorial  of  President  Garfield  (d.  1881).  At  (331  M.)  Cumbres  (10,115  ft.)  we 
reach  the  top  of  the  pass  across  the  Conejos  or  San  Juan  Mts.  and  begin  the 
descent.  344  M.  Chama  (7860  ft. ; Bail.  Restaurant,  meal  75  c.).  From  (390  M.) 
Pagosa  Junction  a branch-line  runs  to  (31  M.)  Pagosa  Springs  (7110  ft. ; hotel ; 
springs,  140°  Fahr.).  404  M.  Arholes  (6015  ft.).  At  (426  M.)  Ignacio  we  reach 
a reservation  of  the  IJte  Indians.  — 452  M.  Durango  (6520  ft. ; Strater  House^ 
from  $2;  Palace.,  Inter-Ocean.,  $2),  a progressive  town  of  3317  inhab.,  on 
the  Rio  de  las  Animas,  is  the  commercial  centre  of  S.W.  Colorado. 

fFrorn  Durango  the  tourist  may,  if  he  prefer,  continue  the  ‘Circle’ 
by  the  Rio  Grande  Southern  R.  R.,  rejoining  the  main  route  at  Ridgway 
(p.  534).  This  line  passes  Fort  Lewis,  crosses  the  Animas  watershed  at 
(21 M.)  Cima  (8590  ft.),  and  descends  the  Mancos  Valley  to  (40  M.)  Mancos. 
This  is  the  starting^-point  of  the  trail  to  the  (20M.)  famous  "ClifiF  Dwellings 
of  the  Mancos  Canon,  which  rank  among  the  most  important  remains 
of  the  mysterious  cliff-dwellers  and  should  be  visited  by  every  student 
of  the  native  races  of  America  (guide  and  horses  on  application  to  the  rail- 
road agent  at  Mancos).  Comp.  p.  Ixvi  and  ‘The  Land  of  the  Cliff  Dwellers’, 
by  F.  II.  Chapin.  — At  (47  M.)  Millwood  (7640  ft.)  we  cross  the  Chicken 
Creek  Divide  and  then  descend  through  Lost  Canon  to  (60  M.)  Dolores  (6960  ft. ; 
hotel).  Thence  we  ascend  througli  the  Dolores  Valley  and  the  narrow 
Dolores  Canon  to  (96  M.)  Rico  (8735  ft.;  Enterprise  Hotel,  $2^2),  a mining 
centre  (pop.  811)  amid  the  San  Miguel  Mts.  From  Rico  the  train  climbs 
(gradient  11:100)  to  (110  M.)  the  Lizard  Head  Pass  (10,250ft.),  whence  it 
descends  on  the  other  side  of  the  San  Miguel  Mts.,  passing  (113 M.)  "Trout 
Lake  (9800  ft. ; hotel).  This  descent,  by  means  of  the  (117  M.)  Ophir  Loop 
(9220ft.)  and  numerous  zigzags,  iron  bridges,  and  rock-cuttings,  taxed  the 
skill  of  the  engineer  to  the  utmost.  Fi*om  (124M.)  Vance  (8115  ft.) 

a line  runs  to  (8M.)  Telluride  (8760ft. ; Sheridan,  $3),  a beautifully  situated 
mining  town  (pop.  2446),  passing  the  large  Keystone  Placer  Mine.  Beyond 
(136  M.)  Placerville  (7295  ft. ; hotel)  we  cross  the  Horse-Fly  Range,  a spur 
of  the  Uncompahgre  Mts.,  at  the  (149  M.)  Dallas  Divide  (8990ft.),  and  then 
descend  into  the  fertile  '^Dallas  or  Pleasant  Valley,  surrounded  by  snow- 
capped peaks.  154  M.  High  Bridge  (7960  ft.).  — 162  M.  Ridgway,  see  p.  534.] 

Beyond  Durango  the  Silver  or  ‘Rainbow’  Route  turns  to  the  N.  and  fol- 
lows the  Rio  de  las  Animas.  Beyond  (459  M.)  Trimble  Hot  Springs  (6645  ft. ; 
Hermosa,  $3)  the  valley  contracts  and  at  (469M.)  i2ocA:«^ooc7(7365  ft.)  we  reach 
the  beautiful Animas  Cafion,  the  walls  of  which  rise  500  ft.  above  us  on  the 
one  side  and  drop  1000  ft.  below  us  on  the  other.  A single  mile  of  track 
here  cost  $140,000  (28,000  7.)  to  build.  On  issuing  from  the  cafion  we  see 
the  carious  Needle  Mts.  towering  to  the  right.  We  then  traverse  the  pretty 
little  Elk  Park.  To  the  left  rises  Garfield  Peak  (12,135  ft.).  — 497  M.  Sil- 
verton  (9225  ft. ; Grand  Central,  $3),  a mining  town  with  1360  inhab.,  and 
the  terminus  of  this  branch  of  the  D.  & R.  G.  R.  R.,  lios  in  Baker  Park, 
near  the  base  of  Sultan  Mt.  (13,500  ft.),  one  of  the  grandest  of  the  San 
Juan  Mts. 

We  now  follow  the  Silverton  Railway,  one  of  the  most  extraordinary 
feats  of  engineering  in  America,  which  ascends  over  Red  Mt.  (13,335  ft.) 
to  (16  M.)  Red  Mountain,  a small  mining  town.  The  line  winds  backwards  and 
forwards  like  the  trail  of  a serpent  and  finally  attains  a height  of  11,235  ft. 
(^000  ft.  above  Silverton).  The  scenery  is  of  the  grandest  description, 
and  the  View  from  the  summit  is  superb.  The  descent  is  as  wonderful 
as  the  ascent.  Numerous  mines  are  passed. 

At  Red  Mountain  v/e  leave  the  railway  and  proceed  by  stage  to  (12  M. ; 


534:  Route  94. 


SALIDA. 


From  Denver 


a drive  of  2V2lirs.)  Ouray.  The  road  is  good  and  the  scenery  magnificent.  To 
the  left  rises  Mt.  Abrahams  (12,600  ft.).  We  pass  the  Bear  Creek  Falls  (250  ft. 
high)  and  the  ’'Uncompahgre  CaHon. 

Ouray  (7720  ft.^  -Beaumont  Hotel,  $ 3;  Wilson,  $ 2V2,  from  $ 1),  where 
we  again  reach  the  D.  & R.  G.  R.  R.,  is  a picturesque  mountain-town  with 
2196  inhab.,  frequented  for  its  grand  scenery  and  its  hot  medicinal  springs. 
To  the  S.  rise  Ml.  Hardin  and  Mt.  Hayden;  to  the  N.W.  is  Uncompahgre  Peak 
(14,420  ft.).  — The  distance  from  Ouray  to  Montrose  (see  p.  536)  is  36  M. 
On  the  way  the  railway  passes  the  confluence  of  the  Uncompahgre  and  the 
Dallas,  (10  M.)  Ridgway  (7000  ft.:  Mentone,  $3-4^  see  p.  533),  the  (22  M.) 
old  Los  Pinos  Agency,  and  (26  M.)  Fort  Crawford,  a U.  S.  military  post. 
From  Montrose  to  Salida  and  Denver  and  to  Salt  Lake  City,  see  p.  536. 

Our  line  from  Pueblo  now  diverges  to  tbe  right  (W.)  from  the 
line  running  S.  to  Trinidad  (see  p.  532).  We  follow  the  course  of  the 
Arkansas  River  (left),  crossing  various  tributaries.  To  the  right  fine 
views  are  enjoyed  of  Pike’s  Peak  (p.  530),  towering  above  the  lower 
mountains.  — 152  M.  Florence, ^iih.  large  petroleum  tanks  and  derricks. 

From  Florence  to  Cripple  Creek,  49  M.,  railway  in  3 hrs.  (through 
cars  from  Denver  in  8 hrs.).  This  line  opens  up  an  important  mining 
district.  34  M.  Wilbur;  43  M.  Victor  (p.  531).  — 49  M.  Cripple  Creek,  see  p.  531. 

161  M.  Canon  City  (5345  ft.;  Strathmore,  $3;  /St.  Cloud,  from 
$21/2;  Hot  Springs  Hotel,  2 M.  to  the  W.,  $2-3),  a small  health- 
resort  (3775  inhab.),  frequented  for  its  hot  mineral  springs,  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Royal  Gorge,  2 M.  to  the  W.  About  10  M.  off 
is  Dawsons  Camp.,  a rich  gold  mine  lately  discovered  on  the  site  of 
the  ‘Copper  King’,  an  abandoned  copper  mine.  — Beyond  Canon  City 
we  pass  between  the  Hot  Springs  Hotel  (left)  and  the  State  Peniten- 
tiary (right)  and  enter  the  famous  ’*’Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas, 
8 M.  of  stupendous  rocky  scenery  (granite),  through  which  the  railway 
barely  makes  its  way  along  the  boiling  river.  At  the  narrowest  point, 
known  as  the  Royal  Gorge,  where  the  train  stops  for  a few  minutes, 
the  rocks  tower  to  a height  of  2600  ft.  and  the  railway  passes  over 
a bridge  hung  from  girders  mortised  into  the  smooth  sides  of  the 
canon.  Beyond  the  canon  we  still  foUow  the  foaming  Arkansas, 
passing  numerous  fantastic  rocks  and  crags.  Farther  on  we  obtain  a 
good  view,  in  front,  of  the  superb  snow'-clad  *Sangre  de  Cristo  Range. 
To  the  left  is  the  Broadside  Range.  As  we  near  Salida  the  Collegiate 
Peaks  (^Mts.  Harvard,  Yale,  and  Princeton,  see  p.  516)  come  into 
sight,  in  front  (N.W.). 

216  M.  Salida  (7050  ft. ; Monte  Cristo,  at  the  station,  $ 3 ; Palmer 
Ho.,  in  the  town,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  $2),  a small  towui 
(3722  inhab.),  beautifully  situated  and  commanding  a grand  moun- 
tain-view (to  the  S.,  the  lower  N.  peaks  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo 
Range;  to  the  S.W.,  Mts.  Ouray  and  Shavano;  to  the  N.W.,  the 
Collegiate  Peaks).  The  small  hill  in  front  of  the  station  (I/2  hr. ; very 
steep  path)  is  a commanding  point  of  view. 

From  Salida  passengers  by  the  Denver  & Rio  Grande  R.  R.  have  a 
choice  of  two  routes,  uniting  at  Grand  Junction  (p.  536).  The 
narrow-gauge  line  (left)  crosses  Marshall  Pass  (p.  535),  while  the 
standard-gauge  line,  with  through-carriages  (comp.  p.  528),  runs 


to  Ogden. 


GUNNISON. 


94.  Route.  535 


via  Leadville  (p.  538).  The  latter  route,  which  coincides  to  some 
extent  with  the  Colorado  Midland  Railway  (p.  037),  is  here  given  in 
small  type,  while  the  Marshall  Pass  line  is  given  as  the  main  route. 

Fkom  Salida  to  Grand  Junction  via  Leadville,  235  M.,  railway  in 
9-10  hrs.  — The  train  runs  towards  the  N.,  with  Mt.  Shavano  (14,240  ft.)  to 
the  left.  7 M.  Brown  Cct%on;  18  M.  Nathrop  (7695  ft.);  26  M.  Buena  Vista 
(see  p.  516).  To  the  left  tower  the  Collegiate  Beaks  (p.  534).  43  M.  Granite 
(8945  ft. ; comp.  p.  516)  is  the  best  point  for  excursions  to  the  Twin  Lakes 
(p.  517),  one  of  the  finest  points  in  South  Park  (p.  51G).  — 56  M.  Malta 
(9580  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  the  branch-line  to  (4  M.)  Leadville  (see  p.  538). 
— 60  M.  Leadville  Junction.  At  (66  M.)  Tennessee  Pass  (10,440  ft.)  we  cross 
the  Continental  watershed  (tunnel)  and  begin  to  descend  towards  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  To  the  left  rises  Mt.  Massive  (14,300  ft.),  at  the  foot  of  which  is 
Evergreen  Lake.  Just  before  reaching  (74  M.)  Pando  we  have  a good  view 
(left)  of  the  Mountain  of  the  Holy  Gross  (14,175  ft.  ; see  p.  516).  A little 
farther  on  we  pass  through  the  short  but  fine  Red  Cliff  CaHon.  79  M.  Red 
Cliff  (8670  ft.).  About  5 M.  farther  on  is  the  Eagle  River  Canon,  where  the 
mining-shafts  and  miners’  dwellings  are  seen  clinging  to  the  sides  of  the 
cliffs,  2000  ft.  above  our  heads.  Near  (87  M.)  Minturn,  to  the  right,  is  a 
rock  known  as  the  Lioness.  From  (104  M.)  Wolcott  stages  run  to  (70  M.) 
Steamboat  Springs,  with  a large  group  of  mineral  springs.  Beyond  (133  M.) 
Botsero,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Eagle  and  Grand  Rivers,  we  enter  the  fine 
'•'Canon  of  the  Grand  River,  which  is  16  M.  long  and  has  rocky  sides  reaching 
a height  of  2000-2500  ft.  We  pass  through  three  tunnels,  the  last  444  yds. 
long.  — 146  M.  Glenwood  Springs  (5770  ft.),  see  p.  538.  A branch-line  runs 
hence  to  (41  M.)  Aspen  (see  p.  538).  To  the  S.E.  towers  Mt.  Sopris{\2,WlC  ft.). 
Beyond  Glenwood  we  continue  to  follow  the  Grand  River,  which  flows  to 
the  left.  158  M.  Newcastle,  and  thence  to  (235  M.)  Grand  Junction,  see  p.  538. 

Beyond  Salida  the  narrow-gauge  line  runs  at  first  towards  the 
S.AfV.  — 220  M.  Poncha  (7480  ft. ; Poncha  Hot  Springs  Ho.,  Jackson 
Ho.,  $2),  with  hot  springs  (90-185®),  is  the  junction  of  a branch- 
line to  (11  M.)  Monarch.  — From  (228  M.)  Hears  Junction  (8435  ft.) 
a line  runs  S.  to  (74  M.)  Alamosa  (p.  532). 

This  line  also  runs  through  a picturesque  district,  affording  good  views 
(left)  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range,  including  the  Three  Tetons  (p.  487), 
Music  Peak  (13,300  ft.),  and  Blanca  Peak  (p.  532). 

We  continue  to  ascend  rapidly,  the  line  winding  backwards  and 
forwards  in  a series  of  the  most  abrupt  curves,  and  affording  a strik- 
ing spectacle  of  engineering  skill.  Lofty  mountains  rise  on  every 
side.  The  top  of  the  ^Marshall  Pass,  one  of  the  loftiest  passes  across 
the  main  ridge  of  the  Rocky  Mts.,  is  10,858  ft.  above  the  sea.  The 
view  includes  Mt.  Ouray  (14,400  ft.),  rising  close  to  the  line  on  the 
right,  and  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  Range  to  the  S.E.  Snow  lies  here  all 
the  year  round. 

The  first  part  of  the  descent  is  very  rapid,  and  numerous  abrupt 
curves  are  turned  (no  standing  on  the  platform  allowed).  — 259  M. 
Sargent  (8480  ft.).  We  now  traverse  a bleak  moorland  district. 
Beyond  (278  M.)  Parlin  (7950  ft.)  we  repeatedly  cross  the  meander- 
ing Tomichi.  — 290  M.  Gunnison  (7680  ft.;  La  Veta  Hotels  with 
railway-restaurant,  $3,  meal  75  c.),  a town  of  1200  inhab.,  is  of 
considerable  importance  as  the  outlet  of  a rich  mining  district. 

A branch-line  runs  from  Gunnison  to  (28  M.)  Crested  Butte  (8880  ft . ; 
Elk  Mountain  Ho.,  $2),  a small  town,  in  a district  rich  in  coal,  silver, 
and  gold.  The  Crested  Butte  is  close  to  the  town.  The  Elk  Mts.,  a little 
to  the  W.,  rise  finely  from  the  plain  and  afford  good  shooting. 


536  Route  94. 


GRAND  JUNCTION, 


From  Denver 


Beyond  Gunnison  we  follow  the  Gunnison  River ^ at  first  on  one 
side  and  then  on  the  other.  — 316  M.  Sapinero  (7245  ft.)  is  the 
junction  of  a line,  running  through  *Lake  Fork  Canon^  to  (37  M.) 
Lake  Junction^  near  the  beautiful  Lake  San  Cristobal.  An  observation 
car  is  attached  to  the  train  for  the  passage  of  the  *Black  Canon,  or 
Grand  Gorge  of  the  Gunnison^  which  is  15  M.  long  and  in  some  re- 
spects even  grander  than  the  Royal  Gorge.  Among  the  most  promi- 
nent individual  features  are  the  Chippeta  Falls  (right)  and  the  *Cur- 
recanti  Needle^  a lofty  pinnacle  of  rock  surmounted  by  a flag-staff 
(about  halfway  down  the  canon).  The  river,  which  we  cross  and  re- 
cross, alternates  between  foaming  rapids  and  pleasant  quiet  reaches. 
Near  the  end  of  the  canon  we  diverge  to  the  left  from  the  Gunnison 
and  follow  the  canon  of  its  tributary,  the  * Cimarron^  one  of  the  finest 
pieces  of  the  whole  gorge.  From  (329  M.)  Cimarron  (6895  ft. ; Rail. 
Restaurant)  we  ascend  rapidly  to  (335  M.)  Cerro  Summit  (7965  ft.), 
and  then  descend,  nearly  as  rapidly,  towards  the  Lower  Gunnison. 
The  country  now  traversed  is  arid  and  unattractive.  — 343  M.  Cedar 
Creek  (6750ft.).  352 M.  Montrose  (5790  ft;  Belvidere,  %%!%  with 
rail,  restaurant)  is  the  junction  of  the  line  to  Ouray  (see  p.  534).  The 
Uncompahgre  Mts.^  culminating  in  XJncompahgre  Peak  (14,420  ft.), 
are  seen  to  the  S.W.  (left).  Beyond  (374  M.)  Delta  (4980  ft.),  the 
junction  of  a branch-line  to  Paonia^  and  (44  M.)  Somerset,  in  a fruit- 
growing district,  we  pass  through  the  Canon  of  the  Lower  Gunnison, 
where  the  smooth-faced  sandstone  cliffs  are  striking.  Beyond  (398  M.) 
Bridgeport  we  thread  a tunnel  722  yds.  long.  In  approaching  Grand 
Jiinction  we  cross  the  Grand  River,  just  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Gunnison. 

424  m.  Grand  Junction  (4580  ft.;  Buena  Vista,  Grand,  $2; 
Rail.  Restaurant)  is  of  importance  as  the  junction  of  the  Denver 
and  Colorado  Midland  railways  (see  p.  538).  We  continue  to  follow 
the  Grand  River  (left).  To  the  right  are  the  fantastic  Little  Book 
Cliffs.  We  traverse  the  bare  '‘Colorado  DeserV.  At  (458  M.)  Utah  Line 
we  enter  Utah  (pp.  498,  539).  To  the  left,  in  the  distance,  are  the  * 
La  Sal  and  San  Rafael  Mis.  To  the  right  are  the  Roan  or  Book  Mts. 
(7000-9000  ft.),  with  their  variegated  cliffs.  480  M.  Cisco.  — At 
(530  M.)  Green  River  (4070  ft.)*  we  cross  the  river  of  that  name  and 
enter  another  stretch  of  desert. 

Beyond  Green  River  the  train  ascends  steadily  towards  the  Wah- 
satch  Range.  At  (555  M.)  Lower  Crossing  (4630ft.)  we  cross  the 
S.  fork  of  the  Price  River.  595  M.  Price  (5560  ft.)  ; 602  M.  Helper 
(Rail.  Restaurant).  At  (606  M.)  Castle  Gate  (6165  ft.)  we  reach  the 
’^Castle  or  Price  River  Canon,  the  entrance  to  which  is  formed  by 
two  pinnacles  of  sandstone,  450-500  ft.  high , barely  leaving  room 
for  the  railway  and  river  to  pass  between  them.  620  M.  Colton 
(7185  ft.).  At  (627  M.)  Soldier  Summit  (7465  ft.)  we  reach  the  top 
of  the  pass  over  the  Wahsa.tcli  Mts.  and  begin  to  descend  on  the 
other  side.  633  M.  Clear  Creek  (6245  ft.).  — 652  M.  Thistle  (5040  ft.) 


to  Ogden. 


tJTE  PASS. 


94.  Route.  537 


is  tlie  Junction  of  a line  to  Manti^  Salina,  and  (132  M.)  Marysvale. 
A little  farther  on  we  pass  through  the  pretty  little  Spanish  Fork 
Canon  and  emerge  in  the  beautiful  Utah  Valley  (p.  539).  To  the 
S.  rises  Mt.  Neho  (12,000  ft.).  From  (667  M.)  Springville  (4565  ft.) 
a branch-line,  with  a wonderful  double-circle  loop,  runs  through  the 
Goshen  Valley  to  (43  M.)  Silver  City,  in  the  Tintic  Mining  District 
(p.  542).  To  the  left  lies  Utah  Lake,  with  the  Oquirrh  Mts.  rising 
beyond  it.  — 672  M.  Provo  (4530  ft.),  a thriving  little  Mormon  city, 
with  6185  inhab.,  situated  on  the  Provo  River,  a little  above  its 
mouth  into  Utah  Lake.  A branch-line  runs  hence  through  the  Provo 
Canon  (waterfalls)  to  (26  M.)  Heher  (Hot  Pots  Hotel),  with  its  so- 
called  ‘Hot  Pots’  or  natural  craters  of  boiling  water.  — 688  M.  Lehi 
(4545  ft.;  comp.  p.  542).  Farther  on  we  see  (left)  the  small  river 
Jordan,  connecting  Utah  Lake  with  the  Great  Salt  Lake  (p.  542). 
706  M.  Bingham  Junction  (4380  ft.).  As  we  approach  Salt  Lake 
City  we  have  a view  to  the  right  of  the  Mormon  Tabernacle  and 
Temple. 

716  M.  Salt  Lake  City  (4368  ft.),  see  p.  539. 

Beyond  Salt  Lake  City  the  train  runs  to  the  N.,  with  Great  Salt 
Lake  generally  in  sight  to  the  left.  To  the  right  rise  the  Wahsatch 
Mts.  In  the  lake  are  the  large  and  mountainous  Antelope  Island  and 
(farther  on)  Fremont  Island.  725  M.  Wood's  Cross;  731  M.  Far- 
mington; 735m.  Kaysville;  738 M.  Layton;  746 M.  Hooper  or  Roy. 

753  M.  Ogden  (4300  ft.),  see  p.  498. 

b.  Vi§.  Colorado  Midland  Railway. 

706  M.  Railway  in  26-28  brs.  (fare  $ 18  ; sleeper  $5).  Through-carriages 
to  San  Francisco.  This  line  (‘Pike’s  Peak  Route’)  also  traverses  much 
line  scenery. 

From  Denver  to  (74  M.)  Colorado  Springs  the  train  uses  the 
tracks  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka,  and  Santa  Fe  Railway  (see  p.  517), 
practically  coinciding  with  that  above  described.  From  Colorado 
Springs  the  line  runs  towards  the  W.  78  M.  Colorado  City,  see 
pp.  528, 530 ; 81  M.  Manitou,  seep.  530.  82  M.  Manitou  Iron  Springs 
(6550  ft.),  the  starting-point  of  the  Pike’s  Peak  Railway  (p.  530). 
Beyond  Manitou  the  train  ascends  through  the  beautiful  *1Jte  Pass, 
on  the  shoulder  of  Pike’s  Peak  (p.  530),  so  called  because  formerly 
the  regular  route  of  the  Ute  Indians  in  passing  across  the  moun- 
tains to  the  plains.  86  M.  Cascade  Canon  (7240  ft.;  Ramona,  $3; 
Rail.  Restaurant),  the  starting-point  of  the  carriage-road  to  the  top 
of  Pike’s  Peak  (comp.  p.  531);  87  M.  Ute  Park  (7510  ft. ; Ute  Hotel); 
90  M.  Green  Mountain  Falls  (71^6 it.-.  Hotel,  $2-3);  95  M.  Wood- 
land Park  (8485  ft. ; hotel),  at  the  head  of  the  Ute  Pass,  affording  a 
splendid  view  of  Pike’s  Peak.  From  (100  M.)  Manitou  Park  Station 
(8465  ft.)  a four-horse  coach  runs  to  (7  M.)  ^Manitou  Park  (7500  ft. ; 
Hotel,  well  spoken  of,  $3).  On  leaving  the  Ute  Pass  we  cross  the 
(102  m.)  Hayden  Divide  (9200  ft.),  part  of  the  Continental  watershed. 


538  Route  94, 


LEADYILLE. 


From  Denver 


From  Divide  tlie  Midland  Terminal  Railway  runs  towards  the  S.  to  (29  M.) 
Cripple  Creek  (p.  531;  1^/4  hr. ; through-cars  from  Denver  in  6-7 hrs.),  pass- 
ing (6  M.)  Oillett^  (23  M.)  Victor  (p.  531),  and  (27  M.)  Anaconda^  all  important 
mining  points. 

From  Divide  we  descend,  passing  (111  M.)  Florissant  (8150  ft.), 
to  tlie  fine  ^Granite  or  Eleven  Mile  Canon,  thronglx  wMcli  rushes  the 
South  Platte  River.  We  are  now  traversing  South  Park  (p.  516). 
1-23  M.  Howhert  (8520  ft.);  133  M.  Spinney  (8630  ft.);  144  M. 
Hartsel  Hot  Springs  (8890  ft. ; Hotel,  $ 2-21/2),  one  of  the  chief  re- 
sorts in  South  Park.  After  crossing  the  Trout  Creek  Pass  (9345  ft.) 
we  descend  to  (176  M.)  Buena  Vista  (p.  516),  in  the  valley  of  the 
Arkansas.  194  M.  Granite  (8960  ft.);  201  M.  Snowden  (9305  ft.). 

213  M.  Leadville  (10,100  ft.  ; Vendome,  $ 3-4 ; Fifth  Avenue, 
R.  from  $1;  Cottingliam,  $2-21/2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  one  of  the 
highest  cities  and  most  celebrated  mining  centres  in  the  world,  is 
finely  situated  amid  towering  mountains.  Pop.  (1900)  12,455.  It  is 
especially  interesting  in  all  points  connected  with  mines  and  miners. 

Leadville  was  founded  in  1859  under  the  name  of  California  Quick 
and  was  for  several  years  one  of  the  richest  gold-washing  camps  in  Colo- 
rado. In  1876  the  great  carbonate  beds  of  silver  were  discovered,  and 
the  population  rose  for  a time  to  30,000.  The  annual  yield  of  silver  in 
the  Leadville  mines  amounts  to  about  $ 15,0(X),(X30,  and  its  gold-mining  has 
also  again  become  profitable.  The  total  yield  of  its  mines  has  been  over 
$ 250,000,000. 

Among  the  favourite  excursions  from  Leadville  are  those  to  the  Soda 
Springs  on  Mi.  Massive,  5 M.  to  the  W.  (reached  by  a fine  boulevard),  and 
to  the  Twin  Lakes  (p.  517),  14  M.  to  the  S.  — From  Leadville  to  Denver, 
etc.,  by  the  Denver  & Rio  Grande  R.  R.,  see  R.  94a. 

Beyond  Leadville  the  train  ascends  rapidly  towards  the  ridge  of 
the  Saguache  Mts.,  passing  the  ‘Continental  Divide’  by  the  (226  M.) 
Busk  Twnnei  (10,945  ft.)below  the  HaycrmccnPass(l  1,530  ft.).  It  then 
descends  rapidly,  past  *Hell  Gate.  — From  (265  M.)  Basalt  (6615  ft. ; 
Rail.  Restaurant)  a branch-line  runs  to  (19  M.)  Aspen  (comp.  p.  535). 

Aspen  (7950  ft. ; Jerome,  R.  from  $ 1),  finely  situated  in  the  heart  of  the 
Rockies,  is  a mining  town  with  3300  inhabitants.  Silver  and  lead  are  the 
chief  sources  of  its  wealth,  but  gold  is  also  found  in  the  vicinity. 

We  continue  to  descend  along  the  Roaring  Fork.  — 289  M. 
Glenwood  Springs  (5770  ft.;  * The  Colorado,  with  well-kept 
grounds,  $4-5;  Hotel  Glenwood,  $21/2-672;  Kendrick's  Cottages, 
R.  75  c.),  at  the  junction  of  the  Roaring  Fork  and  the  Grand  River, 
has  of  late  come  into  prominence  on  account  of  its  beautiful  situation 
and  hot  salt  mineral  springs.  The  springs,  rising  on  both  sides  of 
the  Grand  River,  have  a temperature  of  120-140®  Fahr.,  are  highly 
mineralized,  and  are  beneficial  in  rheumatism,  gout,  and  most  dis- 
eases of  the  blood  and  skin.  The  bathing  arrangements  are  excellent, 
including  a large  swimming  basin,  640  ft.  long  and  110  ft.  wide 
(temp.  95®).  A natural  Turkish  bath  may  be  enjoyed  in  one  of  the 
Vapour  Caves  (105-110®).  From  Glenwood  a branch-line  leads  to 
(41 M.)  Aspen  (see  above). 

301  M.  Newcastle;  315  M.  Rifle  (5100  ft.);  332  M.  Parachute; 
345  M.  De  Beque.  At  (378  M.)  Grand  Junction  (p.  536)  we  pass 


to  Ogden. 


SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


9d.  Route.  639 


on  to  tlie  lines  of  the  Rio  Grande  Western  Railway ; and  the  journey 
hence  to  (670  M.)  Salt  Lake  City  and  (706  M.)  Ogden  is  the  same 
as  that  described  in  K.  94  a. 


Salt  Lake  City.  — Hotels.  Knutsford  (PI.  C,  2,  3),  cor.  of  Third 
South  aud  State  Sts.,  from  $4^  Kenyon  (PI. b; C, 2),  cor.  Main  and  Second 
South  Sts.,  from  $27-2,  R.  from  $1;  New  Wilson  (PI.  c^  0,2),  Second 
South  St.,  R.  from  $1;  Cdllen  (PI.  d;B,  2),  Second  South  St.,  from  $2; 
Grand  Pacific  (PI.  f^  A,  2),  cor.  S.  Temple  and  Third  West  Sts. 

Railway  Stations.  Rio  Qrande  Western  (Pi.  A,  2,  3),  cor.  of  2nd  S.  and 
5th  W.  Sts. ; Oregon  Short  Line  (PI.  A,  2) , cor.  of  S.  Temple  and  3rd  W.  Sts. 
Salt  Lake  & Ogden  (PI.  A,  B,  2),  3rd  W.  St. 

Tramways  (electric)  traverse  the  principal  streets  (fare  5 c.).  — The 
‘Seeing  Salt  Lake  City’  Observation  Cars  (comp.  p.  17)  atford  a complete 
and  speedy  tour  of  the  town  (2  hrs.).  They  start  twice  daily  (10  a.m.  and 
2p.m?^  fare  50c.)  from  the  corner  of  Second  South  and  Main  Streets, 
stopping  at  the  chief  hotels  to  pick  up  passengers. 

Post  Office  (PI.  B,  2),  W.  Temple  St.,  cor.  2nd  South  St. 

Streets.  Salt  Lake  City  is  laid  out  on  a rectangular  plan,  and  its  streets 
are  named  and  numbered  in  such  a way  that  it  is  easy  to  find  any  given 
point.  The  centre  of  the  city  is  Temfle  Square  or  Block  (PL  B,  1,  2), 
the  streets  enclosing  which  are  named  North  Temple^  West  Temple.,  South 
Temple.,  and  East  Temple  Streets.  The  streets  to  the  N.  of  N.  Temple  St. 
are  known  as  1st  North,  2nd  North,  and  so  on;  those  to  the  W.  of  W. 
Temple  St.  as  1st  W.,  2nd  W.,  etc.;  those  to  the  S.  of  S.  Temple  St.  as 
1st  S.,  etc.;  those  to  the  E.  ofE.  Temple  St.  as  1st  E.,  etc.  Each  block  is 
i/s  M.  long.  First  East  St.  was  recently  renamed  State  St.  Popularly,  East 
Temple  St.  is  known  as  Main  St., 'South  Temple  St.  as  Brigham  St.,  and 
North  Temple  St.  as  Jordan  St.  On  the  bench  in  the  N.E.  part  of  the 
city  the  blocks  are  smaller,  and  the  streets  narrower  and  named  differently. 

Salt  Lake  City  (4368  ft.),  tbe  headquarters  of  the  Church  of 
Jesus  Christ  of  Latter  Day  Saints  or  '^Mormons'  and  the  capital  of  the 
state  of  Utah,  is  admirably  situated  in  a spacious  upland  valley, 
encircled  by  mountains,  which  approach  the  city  closely  on  the  N. 
and  E.  (Wahsatch  Range),  while  they  are  ,20  M.  distant  to  the  S. 
and  48  M.  distant  to  the  S.W  (Oquirrh  Range).  Great  Salt  Lake 
(p.  542)  lies  12  M.  to  the  N.W.  The  city  is  regularly  laid  out 
and  the  streets  are  wide  and  shaded  with  trees.  Each  house  in 
the  residence-quarters  stands  in  its  own  garden,  the  general  effect 
being  cool  and  pleasant.  In  1900  the  population  was  53,531. 

Salt  Lake  City  was  founded  in  1847  by  the  Mormons,  under  Brigham 
Young  (p.  540),  who  had  been  driven  from  Nauvoo  (111.;  see  p.  405)  the 
previous  year  and  had  made  a long  and  perilous  journey  across  the  In- 
dian-haunted plains.  The  district  was  then  a barren  and  unpromising 
desert,  but  the  industrious  Mormons  set  to  work  at  once  to  plough  and 
plant  and  began  that  system  of  irrigation  which  has  drawn  out  the  latent 
capabilities  of  the  soil  and  made  the  Utah  valleys  among  the  most  produc- 
tive regions  in  the  country.  The  Territory  of  TJtah  was  organized  in  1850, 
with  Brigham  Young  (d.  1877)  as  the  first  governor.  A copious  stream  of 
Mormon  immigrants  soon  set  in  from  Europe;  and,  in  spite  of  numerous 
collisions  with  the  U.  S.  Government  on  the  question  of  polygamy,  the 
history  of  the  city  and  territory  has  been  one  of  steady  progress  and  devel- 
opment. Of  late  years  the  proportion  of  ‘Gentile"  (L^-  Non-Mormon)  in- 
habitants in  Salt  Lake  City  has  increased  very  rapidly  and  introduced  many 
new  features  and  problems  into  the  situation.  Polygamy  has  been  declared 
illegal  by  the  U.  S.  Courts  and  has  been  nominally  discontinued.  In  1896 
Utah  was  admitted  to  statehood. 


540  Route  9d, 


SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


Tabernacle. 


t ‘Early  in  1820,  at  Manchester  (N.  Y.),  Joseph  Smiihy  then  fourteen  years 
old,  became  interested  in  a religious  revival  but  was  puzzled  by  the  conflict- 
ing doctrines  taught.  He  asked  of  God  in  prayer,  which  sect  was  right. 
In  answer  he  saw  a vision  of  God  the  father  and  his  son  Jesus  Christ,  and 
was  told  that  all  the  sects  were  wrong.  In  subsequent  visions  he  learned 
that  he  was  to  be  the  instrument  in  restoring  the  Gospel  and  the  Holy 
Priesthood  of  the  Son  of  God  to  men,  and  in  establishing  the  Church  and 
Kingdom  of  God  upon  the  earth,  never  more  to  be  overthrown;  also  where 
he  would  find  the  inspired  history  of  the  aborigines  of  America  engraved 
in  ancient  characters  on  metal  plates.  This  he  afterwards  translated  into 
English,  by  the  power  of  God,  and  published  in  1830,  as  the  Book  of 
Mormon.  It  has  been  translated  and  published  in  Danish,  French,  German, 
Italian,  Welsh,  Swedish,  Spanish,  Dutch,  Hawaiian,  Samoan,  and  Maori,  and 
translated  into  Hindostanee,  Turkish,  and  Hebrew.  On  May  15th,  1829,  John 
the  Baptist  appeared  to  Joseph  Smith  and  Oliver  Cowdery.^  laid  his  hands  on 
them,  and  conferred  upon  them  the  Aaronic  or  Lesser  Priesthood.  The  same 
year  the  apostles  Peter,  James,  and  John  appeared  to  them  and  conferred 
upon  them  the  Apostleship  of  the  Melchisedek  or  Higher  Priesthood. 

‘The  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints  was  organized  with 
six  members,  on  April  6th,  1830,  at  Fayette  (N.  Y.),  by  Joseph  Smith,  by 
appointment  and  instruction  from  God.  Twelve  apostles,  also  seventies, 
high  priests,  elders,  bishops,  priests,  teachers,  and  deacons,  have  been  since 
ordained,  now  numbering  many  thousands.  They  have  preached  the  Gospel 
to  many  nations,  and  hundreds  of  thousands  of  believers  have  been  baptized. 
Joseph  F.  Smith.,  a nephew  of  the  original  founder,  is  the  present  president 
of  the  Church,  with  John  R.  Winder  and  Anthon  H.  Lund  as  his  counsellors, 
the  three  constituting  the  First  Presidency. 

‘Driven  from  Missouri  and  Illinois,  with  their  prophet  and  president, 
Joseph  Smith,  and  his  brother  Hyrum  murdered  in  Carthage  jail  (111.)  on 
June  27th,  1844,  by  an  armed  mob,  the  Latter-day  Saints  were  led  by 
Jirigham  Young  to  Salt  Lake  in  1847,  spreading  since  into  the  regions 
about.  They  now  number  over  346,000  and  have  built  six  Temples  to 
the  Lord,  the  most  imposing  of  which  is  at  Salt  Lake  City. 

‘The  Latter-Day  Saints  believe  in  God  the  Father;  his  son  Jesus  Christ 
and  his  atonement;  the  Holy  Ghost;  the  Gospel,  the  first  principles  being 
faith,  repentance,  baptism  by  immersion  for  remission  of  sins,  and  the 
laying  on  of  hands  for  imparting  the  Holy  Ghost;  the  resurrection  of  the 
dead,  and  the  eternal  judgment;  the  necessity  of  divine  authority,  by 
calling  and  ordination,  to  jireach  the  Gospel  and  administer  its  ordinances; 
apostles,  prophets,  seventies,  high  priests,  elders,  bishops,  priests,  teachers, 
and  deacons,  for  the  work  of  the  ministry;  revelation  from  God;  the  Bible, 
Book  of  Mormon,  and  other  inspired  books;  the  gathering  of  Israel  and 
the  building  up  of  Zion  and  Jerusalem;  the  sacredness  and  eternity  of 
marriage;  and  the  personal  reign  of  Christ  upon  the  earth  as  King  of 
Kings  and  Lord  of  Lords.* 

Temple  Block  (PI.  B,  1,  2),  the  Sacred  Square  of  the  Mormoiist 
lies  near  the  centre  of  the  city  and  forms  the  chief  object  of  interes, 
to  strangers.  It  is  10  acres  in  area,  is  surrounded  by  a high  adobd 
wall,  and  contains  the  Tabernacle,  the  Temple,  the  Assembly  Hall, 
and  the  Bureau  of  Information.  Visitors  are  admitted  from  8 to  6. 

The  Bureau  of  Information,  near  the  S.  gate  of  the  grounds,  was  estab- 
lished in  1902  lor  the  benefit  of  strangers,  who  can  procure  guides  here 
(gratis)  for  the  Tabernacle  and  other  points  of  interest. 

The  *Tabernacle  (P1.B,2),  built  in  1864-67,  is  a huge  and  ex- 
traordinary structure , in  the  shape  of  an  oval  or  ellipse , 250  ft. 
long,  150  ft.  wide,  and  70  ft.  high.  It  is  surmounted  by  a wooden 

t This  statement  of  the  origin  and  doctrines  of  Mormonism  was  drawn 
up  for  BaedekeFs  United  States  in  the  office  of  the  President  of  the  Church 
of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-Day  Saints. 


Assembly  Hall, 


SALT  LAKE  CITY, 


04.  Eoute,  541 


roof  with  iron  shingles,  resembling  the  shell  of  a turtle  or  the  in- 
verted hull  of  a ship,  supported  by  44  sandstone  pillars. 

The  Interior,  presenting  one  of  the  largest  unsupported  arches  in  the 
world,  has  seats  for  over  80C0  people  and  can  accomniodate  about  12,000. 
Amorphous  though  it  he,  there  is  something  imposing  in  its  size  and 
proportions,  while  it  is  well  adapted  for  speaking  and  hearing.  The  build- 
ing is  surrounded  by  a gallery,  except  at  the  W.  end,  where  there  are 
a platform  for  speakers,  seats  for  the  choir  and  others,  and  an  immense 
and  fine  organ.  Public  religious  services  are  held  in  the  Tabernacle  every 
Sunday  at  2 p.m.,  and  it  is  also  used  for  lectures,  sacred  concerts,  and  other 
meetings.  It  is  open  to  visitors  daily,  8^5. 

A little  to  the  E.  of  the  Tabernacle  is  the  *Temple  (PI.  B,  2)t 
a large  and  handsome  building  of  granite,  erected  in  1853-93,  at  a 
cost  of  over  $4,000,000.  It  is  186  ft.  long  from  E.  to  W.  and 
99  ft.  wide.  At  each  end  are  three  pointed  towers,  the  loftiest  of 
which,  in  the  centre  of  ^the  E.  or  principal  facade,  is  ‘210  ft.  high 
and  is  surmounted  by  a colossal  gilded  figure  high)  of  the 

Angel  Moroni  (by  C.  E.  Ballin'). 

The  Interior  (not  accessible  to  strangers)  is  elaborately  fitted  up  and 
artistically  adorned.  The  Temple  is  used  for  the  administration  of 
ordinances,  including  marriage  (for  this  world  and  the  next,  or  for  eternity 
alone),  baptism  for  the  dead,  prayer,  theological  lectures,  preaching, 
teaching,  ordinations,  etc. 

The  Assembly  Hall  (PI.  B,2),  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Tabernacle,  is 
a granite  building  with  accommodation  for  3000  people,  intended 
tor  divine  service.  — The  famous  Endowment  House  ^ which  stood 
at  theN.W.  corner  of  the  Temple  Enclosure,  has  been  pulled  down. 
At  the  corner  of  North  Temple  and  Main  Sts.  stands  the  Latter-Day 
Saints  or  Zion  University  (PI.  C,  1 , 2),  attended  by  over  1000  students. 
At  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Temple  Square  is  the  Pioneer  Monument, 
surmounted  by  a copper  Statue  of  Brigham  Young  (p.  540)  which 
was  unveiled  in  1897,  50  years  after  the  arrival  of  the  first  band  of 
pioneers  in  the  valley. 

"We  now  follow  kSouTH  Temple  Stkeet  towards  theE.  To  the  right 
is  the  Deseret  News  Block  (PI.  C,  2),  a large  brown-stone  building 
where  the  oldest  newspaper  to  the  W.  of  the  Missouri  is  published. 
To  the  left  are  the  Tithing  Office  and  Tithing  Storehouse^  where 
the  Mormons  pay  their  tithes  in  kind.  A little  farther  on,  also  to 
the  left,  are  the  Lion  House  (PI.  0,2 ; with  a lion  over  the  entrance), 
one  of  the  residences  of  Brigham  Young;  the  Office  of  the  President 
of  the  Mormon  Churchy  and  the  Beehive  House  (PI.  C,  2 ; surmounted 
by  a beehive,  Utah’s  emblem),  another  of  Brigham  Young’s  houses. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  (right)  are  the  huge  shoe-factory 
and  warehouse  of  Zions  Co-operative  Mercantile  Institution  (PI.  C,  2) ; 
the  office  of  the  ’■Juvenile  Instructor  ; the  office  of  the  Historian 
of  the  Mormon  Church;  and  the  Oar  do  House  (PI.  C,  2),  or  Amelia 
Palace,  opposite  the  Beehive  House. 

A little  farther  to  the  N.E. , through  the  Eagle  Gate,  is  Brigham 
Young's  Grave  (PI.  0,  2),  surrounded  by  an  ornamental  iron  railing. 

About  1/2  M.  to  the  N.  of  this  point  is  Prospect  Hill  (PI.  C,  1),  with  a 
tower  commanding  an  excellent  *View  of  tbe  city,  its  environs,  and  Salt 


542  Route  94, 


GREAT  SALT  LAKE. 


Lake.  Fort  Douglas  (see  below)  is  seen  to  tbe  E.  — A still  more  extensive 
view  is  obtained  from  Ensign  Peak  (5050  ft.),  which  rises  a little  farth<'.r 
to  the  N.  and  may  be  ascended  nearly  all  the  way  by  carriage.  To  the  N. 
lies  City  Greek  Canon^  with  some  pretty  scenery. 

The  other  parts  of  the  city  call  for  no  especial  comment.  The  Salt 
Lake  Theatre  (PI.  C,  2),  at  the  corner  of  State  and  1st  S.  Sts.,  is  a 
large  building.  The  Grand  Theatre^  near  the  corner  of  Second  South 
and  State  Sts.  (PI.  0,  2),  is  more  recent.  The  imposing  City  and 
County  Building  is  in  Washington  Sq.  (PL  C,  3),  and  the  new 
Federal  Building  (PL  B,  3)  is  in  Main  St.,  between  Third  and  Fourth 
South  Sts.  A new  Capitol  is  in  contemplation  in  Capitol  Grounds 
(PL  C,  1),  near  Prospect  Hill  (see  above).  Among  the  educational 
establishments  are  the  Utah  State  University  (800  students),  to  the 
E.  of  the  city,  near  Fort  Douglas,  and  the  High  School  (PI.  B,  1), 
in  Union  Sq.  The  Exposition  Grounds^  where  annual  fairs  are  held, 
are  in  Agricultural  Park,  near  the  banks  of  the  Jordan  (beyond 
PL  A,  1).  — The  Salt  Palace  (PL  C,  4),  to  the  S.  of  the  city  (tram- 
way), is  used  for  dramatic,  musical,  and  other  performances. 

On  a plateau  (500  ft.),  3 M.  to  tbe  E.  of  tbe  city,  is  Fort  Douglas 
(PL  F,  1-4),  a U.  S.  military  post,  reached  by  electric  tramway  (fare  5 c.). 
Fine  views  from  tbe  post  and  from  tbe  road  to  it.  Parade  and  band- 
concert  every  afternoon. 

’“  Great  Salt  Lake,  tbe  nearest  point  of  wbicb  is  12  M,  to  tbe  N.W.  of 
Salt  Lake  City,  is  80  M.  long  and  30  M.  wide.  Several  rivers  flow  into 
it,  but  it  bas  no  outlet  and  gets  rid  of  its  superfluous  water  by  evapora- 
tion. Its  water,  wbicb  is  extraordinarily  buoyant,  contains  about  25  per 
cent  of  pure  salt  (ocean  3-4  p.  c.-,  Dead  Sea  24  p.c  ).  A batbe  in  it  is  very 
exhilarating,  but  bathers  should  be  careful  not  to  get  any  of  tbe  brine  into 
their  mouth  or  eyes.  Tbe  lake  contains  several  islands,  tbe  largest  of  wbicb 
are  Antelope  and  Stansbury.  It  is  very  shallow  in  places,  and  varies  in 
depth  and  extent  periodically.  Tbe  tints  of  tbe  water,  especially  at  sunse% 
are  often  very  beautiful.  There  is  said  to  be  a submarine  volcano  in  the 
arm  of  tbe  lake  near  Ogden  (p.  498).  Tbe  lake  may  be  conveniently  visited 
by  taking  tbe  Salt  Lake  (k  Los  Angeles  R.  R.  to  (14  M.)  Saltair,  a well- 
equipped  bathing  resort  with  a comfortable  hotel. 

Tbe  Warm  Sulphur  Springs,  just  to  tbe  N.  of  tbe  city,  and  Beck's  Hot 
Springs,  2 M.  farther  on,  are  frequented  for  their  medicinal  qualities. 

Among  tbe  chief  points  of  resort  among  tbe  Wahsatch  Mts.  are  tbe  Big 
Cottonwood  Canon,  a day’s  drive  from  tbe  city;  tbe  Little  Cottonwood  Canon; 
tbe  Weber  and  Ogden  Canons,  to  tbe  N.  (p.  498);  and  tbe  American  Fork  and 
Provo  Canons,  to  tbe  E.  of  Utah  Valley,  to  tbe  S. 

From  Salt  Lake  City  to  Calientes,  337  M.,  San  Pedro,  Los  Angeles, 
& Salt  Lake  Railway  in  20  brs.  (fare  $11.80;  sleeper  to  Modena  $272).  This 
new  railway  opens  up  a good  mining  region  and  is  to  be  prolonged  to 
Los  Angeles  (p.  566).  — Tbe  line  runs  towards  tbe  S.  From  (29  M.)  Lehi 
Junction  a branch-line  runs  to  (50  M.)  Tintic  Junction,  in  tbe  Opbir  and 
Tintic  mining  district.  At  (471/2  M.)  Provo  (p.  537)  we  intersect  tbe  Rio 
Grande  Western  Railway.  From  (88  M.)  Nephi  a branch-line  run  to  (42  M.) 
Manti.  At  (132  M.)  Lynn  Junction  we  unite  with  the  line  coming  from  Salt 
Lake  City  via  Tintic  Junction  (see  above).  221V2  M.  Milford.  257  M.  Lund 
and  (287  M.)  Modena  are  tbe  usual  starting-points  for  a visit  to  tbe  upper 
valley  of  tbe  Virgin  Biverf,  in  S.W.  Utah.  Tbe  stages  (from  Lund,  30  M., 
daily;  from  Modena,  60 M.,  thrice  weekly)  run  across  tbe  lower  end  of  the 


L Tbe  data  for  this  account  of  tbe  Virgin  River  Valley  were  supplied 
by  Mr.  F.  S.  Dellenhaugh,  who  visited  it  in  1903. 


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SAN  FRANCISCO. 


95.  Route.  543 


Escalante  Desert  to  St.  George  (ca.  2800  ft.;  Daggett  Ho.,  well  spoken  of)) 
a small  town  of  about  2500  inbab.,  with  a mild  and  dry  climate  and  more 
days  of  sunshine  than  any  other  spot  in  the  United  States.  It  is  com- 
pletely surrounded  by  high  cliffs  and  mountains,  the  highest  being  the  Pine 
Valley  Range  (ca.  10  000  ft  ).  Travellers  who  do  not  wish  to  be  tied  to  the 
settlements  should  hire  a conveyance  and  camp -outfit  here.  The  valley 
contains  some  of  the  most  extraordinary  cliff  and  canon  scenery  in  the 
West,  rivalling  the  Yosemite  and  the  Grand  Canon.  About  20  M.  to  the 
'N’.E.  of  St.  George  lies  Tokerville  (Stapley  Ho.),  and  the  entire  stretch  of 
river  above  this  point  is  a wonderland  of  magnificent  cliffs.  There  are 
two  branches,  called  by  the  Indians  Paroonuweap  and  Mukoontoweap.  The 
latter  is  the  remarkable  valley  named  Little  Zion  by  the  Mormons,  who 
have  a settlement,  Springdale near  its  foot.  The  dominating  note  is  the 
Great  Temple  Butte  (7500  ft. ; 4000  ft.  above  the  river),  a stupendous  vertical 
mountain  of  bare  rock,  which  rises  at  the  junction  of  the  two  branches. 
The  colours  of  this  rock  are  as  remarkable  as  the  Titanic  form ; the  red  of 
the  base  merges  into  yellowish  white  at  the  top,  with  a supreme  cap,  on 
the  plateau-like  summit,  of  a dark  red.  The  colours  vary  with  the  light 
also.  Throughout  the  region  there  is  an  extravagant  play  of  colour,  with 
very  little  green.  Sheer  precipices  compose  the  sides  of  the  Great  Temple, 
which  has  never  been  surmounted.  Everywhere  are  more  or  less  vertical 
cliffs  of  startling  proportions.  There  are  no  bridges  over  the  river,  which 
however,  is  easily  crossed,  except  in  time  of  flood.  Along  this  portion  lie 
the  villages  of  Virgin^  Grafton.,  Rockville.,  and  Springdale  (see  above),  where 
accommodation  may  be  obtained  in  small  inns.  Both  branches  of  the  river  are 
accessible  by  waggon  or  on  horseback  for  a considerable  distance  above  the 
settlements.  When  the  ‘Narrows’  of  the  Mukoontoweap  are  reached,  farther 
progress  is  impossible,  except  on  foot,  as  the  walls  approach  to  within  12-15  ft. 
of^each  other,  and  the  canon  is  more  than  1500  ft.  deep,  the  narrowest  deep 
canon  in  the  country.  The  similar  narrows  of  the  Paroonuweap  branch  are 
harder  to  reach,  as  there  is  a dense  growth  of  underbrush  for  several  miles. 
— 337  M.  Calientes. 


95.  San  Francisco. 

Arrival.  Railway  Passengers  from  the  N.,  E.,  and  S.  leave  the  train 
at  Oakland  (see  p.  502)  and  reach  San  Francisco  at  the  Union  Ferry  Depot 
(PI.  G,  2),  at  the  foot  of  Market  St.,  where  cabs  (50  c.),  hotel-omnibuses 
(50  c.),  and  cable,  electric,  and  horse  cars  (5  c.)  meet  the  steamer.  — Those 
arriving  by  Steamer  also  land  in  the  same  neighbourhood.  — The  only  regular 
Railway  Station  in  the  city  is  that  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Co.  (PI.  G,  5),  at  the 
cor.  of  3rd  and  Townsend  Sts.,  for  Menlo  Park,  Santa  Clara,  Santa  Cruz,  San 
Jose,  Tres  Pinos,  Monterey,  Paso  Robles,  etc.  (comp.  p.  556). 

Hotels.  Faikmodnt  (PI.  k,  F3;  to  be  opened  early  in  1805),  a colossal 
structure,  with  a fine  outlook,  covering  with  dependencies  the  square  bounded 
by  California,  Sacramento,  Mason,  and  Powell  Sts. ; St.  Francis  (PI.  1,  F 3; 
450  beds),  corner  of  Powell  St.  and  Union  Square,  R.  from  $ 2.  — Palace 
(PI.  a;  F,  3),  at  the  corner  of  Market  St.  and  Montgomery  St.,  a huge 
building  (1200  beds)  surrounding  an  interior  court,  front-room  from  $ 4, 
court-room  (undesirable)  from  $2.  — Occidental  (PI.  f,  F 3),  cor.  of 
Montgomery  and  Bush  Sts.,  a resort  of  army  and  navy  men  with  their 
families,  from  $3,  R.  from  $1;  California  (PI.  b;  F,  3),  Bush  St.;  Lick 
House  (PI,  e;  F,  3),  cor.  of  Montgomery  and  Sutter  Sts.,  R.  from  $ 1; 
Russ  House  (PI.  i;  F,  3),  cor.  of  Montgomery  and  Pine  Sts.,  from  $2,  R. 
from  $1,  these  last  two  mainly  for  nfien:  Grand  (PI.  d;  F,  3),  opposite 
the  Palace,  of  which  it  is  an  annex,  R.  $ 1-5.  — Family  Hotels  in  quieter 
districts  (special  terms  for  prolonged  stay).  Colonial  (PI.  m;  E,  3),  S.E. 
corner  of  Pine  and  Jones  Sts.;  Plymouth  (PI.  n;  E,  3),  N.E.  cor.  of  Bush 
and  Jones  Sts.;  Savoy  (PI.  o;  F,  3),  cor.  of  Post  St.  and  Union  Square; 
Seqcoia  (PI.  p;  E,  4),  N.W.  cor.  of  Hyde  and  Geary  Sts.;  Knickerbocker 
(PI.  q ; D,  3),  1606  Van  Ness  Ave.,  between  Sacramento  and  California  Streets. 


544  Route  95. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Practical  Notes, 


Restaurants  (the  San  Francisco  restaurants  are  generally  excellent-, 
perhaps  in  no  city  in  the  world  can  so  perfect  a dinner  be  had  at  so  moderate 
a cost).  At  the  St.  Francis.,  Palace.,  Occidental.,  California,  and  other  hotels 
(seep.  543)^  -Marchand,  cor.  of  Geary  and  Stockton  Sts.-,  Poodle  Dog  (old; 
in  same  building  for  over  50  yrs. ; shabby  but  good),  445  Bush  St.;  New 
Poodle  Dog,  cor.  of  Eddy  and  Mason  Sts. ; Pup  Rotisserie,  10  Stockton  St. ; 
Tortoni,  lit  O’Farrell  St.;  Delmonico,  112  O’Farrell  St.;  Jules,  317  Pine  St. 
(excellent  Californian  wines);  Techau  Tavern,  109  Mason  St.;  Babcock,  323 
Larkin  St.;  Matias  (Mexican),  525  Broadway;  La  Madrilena  (Span),  273 
O’Farrell  St.  — Places  frequented  by  ladies  are  the  Vienna  Model  Bakery, 
222  Sutter  St.;  Swain’' s Bakery,  207  Post  St.;  The  Peacock,  229  Geary  St.; 
Woman'' s Exchange,  26  Post  St.  — Chinese  Restaurants  {sqq  p.  549),  642  Jack- 
son  ^t. ; 808  Dupont  St.  ^ ^ 

Tramways.  An  excellent  system  of  "Cable  and  Electric  Cars  (fare  5c.) 
traverses  all  the  main  thoronghfares  and  neutralizes  the  steepness  of  most 
of  the  streets  (comp.  p.  545).  An  elaborate  system  of  transfers  makes  it 
possible  to  go  from  almost  any  point  in  the  city  to  any  other  point  for 
a single  fare.  The  stranger  should  visit  one  of  the  ‘Cable  Power  Houses’ 
{e.g.  at  the  cor.  of  Market  and  Valencia  Sts.),  or  the  main  ‘Electric  Power 
House’  at  North  Beach  (reached  by  the  Fillmore  St.  cars).  Permits  to  view 
these  houses  may  be  obtained  at  the  Chief  Engineer’s  Office  in  the  first- 
mentioned  house.  — Steam  Cars,  communicating  with  the  street-lines  at 
Central  Ave.  (PI.  B,  3,  4)  run  to  Sutro  Heights  and  the  Cliff  House  (p.  551  -, 
through-fare  5 c.,  inch  transfer).  — An  Observation  Car  (fare  25  c.;  comp, 
p 17)  starting  daily  at  10  a.m.  and  2 p.m.  from  the  cor.  of  Market  and 
Montgomery  Sts.  (returning  at  1.30  p.m  and  5.30  p.m.),  traverses  20  M.  of 
streets,  stopping  at  the  Mission  (p.  048),  the  Affiliated  Colleges  (p.  548),  and 
the  Cliff  House  (p.  551),  and  affording  a good  general  survey  of  the  city. 

Cabs.  With  one  horse,  one  pers.,  1 M.  50  c.,  with  two  horses  (hacks)  8 IV2, 
two  pers.  $1,  $2V2-,  per  hr.  $1  (2  pers.),  $3  (4  pers.),  eachaddit.hr.  $1, 
$ 2.  Heavy  baggage  is  usually  transported  by  the  transfer  companies.  — 
Ferries,  plying  from  the  foot  of  Market  St.,  see  p.  551. 

Places  of  Amusement.  Majestic  Theatre  (PI.  E,  5),  at  the  S.E.  cor.  of 
10th  and  Market  Sts. ; California  Theatre  (PI.  F,  3),  414  Bush  St.  (tastefully 
fitted  up);  Grand  Opera  House  (PI.  F,  4) , Mission  St.,  between  3rd  and  4th  Sts. ; 
Columbia  Theatre  (PI.  F,  4),  Powell  St.,  between  Eddy  and  Ellis  Sts.;  AUazar 
(PI.  F,  3,  4;  stock  company),  114  O’Farrell  St.;  Orpheum  (PI.  F , 4), 
opposite  the  last  (variety  show);  Tivoli  Opera  House  (PI.  F,  4),  cor.  m Eddy 
and  Mason  Sts.  (cheap  but  fair  performances  of  opera);  Fischers  Theatre, 
122  O’Farrell  St.  (PI.  F,  4;  burlesques).  In  the  last  three  houses,  smoking 
is  allowed,  but  not  drinking.  — Chinese  Theatres,  see  p.  549.  — The  Chut^, 
in  Fulton  St.,  near  10th  Ave.,  is  a popular  place  of  entertainment,  with 
park,  theatre,  chutes,  etc.  — Racecourses  at  Ingleside,  to  the  S.  of  the 
Affiliated  Colleges  (PI.  A,  B,  7),  at  Emeryville,  Oakland,  and  at  Tanforan, 
in  San  Mateo  County.  These  three  tracks,  belonging  to  the  California  Jockey 
Club  (racing  season  from  Nov.  to  May),  are  for  running  horses  only.  There 
is  a training  track  for  trotters  at  Alameda.  The  Pleasanton  and  the  Petalunaa 
race-tracks  ar-e  IV2  ffr.  distant  from  San  Francisco  by  rail.  — Golf  Links  in 
the  Presidio  Reservation  and  at  Oakland.  — Public  Tennis  Courts  in  Golden 
Gate  Park.  — Sutro  Heights,  see  p.  551.  wu 

Baths.  Salt-water  baths  may  be  obtained  at  the  Sutro  Baths  at  the  Glm 
House  (p.  551);  at  the  Lurline  Baths,  Larkin  St.,  near  Bush  St.;  and  at  the 
Harbour-View  Baths,  on  the  beach  near  Baker  St.  Turkish  Baths:  11  Grant 
Ave.,  222  Post  St.,  and  415  Sutter  St. 

Clubs.  Pacific  Union  (PI.  F,  3),  N.E.  cor.  of  Post  and  Stockton  Sts. ; 
Union  League  (PI.  F,  3),  N.W.  cor.  of  Post  and  Stockton  Sts. ; Bohemian 
(PL  F,  3),  N.E.  cor.  of  Post  St.  and  Grant  Ave.  (literary  men,  artists, 
actors,  etc.);  Cosmos,  1534  Sutter  St  ; Olympic  (PL  E,  F,  3;  athleti^,  62t 
Post  St. ; University,  722  Sutter  St. ; Press,  123  Ellis  St. ; Sierra,  Mills  Build- 
ing Bush  and  Montgomery  Sts.;  Camera,  819  Market  St.;  San  Francisco 
Verein  (German),  cor.  of  Post  and  Leavenworth  Sts.;  Ligue  N^tonale  Fran- 
caise,  135  Geary  St.;  Cercle  Frangais,  336  Post  St.  (these  two  French);  Cow- 
cordia  (Hebrew),  cor.  of  Van  Ness  Ave.  and  Post  St.  women  s Clubs. 


Climate, 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


95,  Route.  545 


Centurt/,  1215  Sutter  St.;  California^  Y.W.  C.  A.  Biiilding,  cor.  of  Mason  and 
Ellis  Sts.;  Sorosis,  1620  California  St.;  Town  and  Country^  23  Post  St. 

Booksellers.  Paul  Elder  Co.^  238  Post  St.  (also  specialties  in  arts 
and  crafts);  Payot,  Upham,  & Go.,  Battery  and  Pine  Sts.;  New  Book  Store, 
23  Grant  Avenue. 

Tourist  Agents.  Raymond  & Whitcomb , 637  Market  St. ; Thos.  Cook 
& Son,  621  Market  St. 

Information  and  Statistical  Bureau:  California  Promotion  Committee, 
25  New  Montgomery  St.  (free). 

Post  Office  (PI.  F,  4,  5),  at  the  cor.  of  Mission  and  7th  Sts.  (open 
7.30  a m.-ll  p.m.;  Sun.  12-1.30  p.m.).  Branch  Offices  at  the  Union  Ferry 
Depot,  and  at  the  cor.  of  Mission  and  New  Montgomery  Sts. 

River  Steamboats  for  Sacramento,  Stockton,  and  Vallejo,  daily,  from 
piers  immediately  to  the  S.  of  Union  Ferry  Depot.  — Steamships.  Oceanic 
S.  S.  Co.  to  Australia  via  Honolulu,  Samoa,  and  New  Zealand  (Pier  No.  7, 
foot  of  Pacific  St.);  Pacific  Mail  S.S.  Co.  to  Panama,  Honolulu,  Japan,  and 
China  (pier  foot  of  1st  and  Brannan  Sts.;  office,  421  Market  St.);  Pacific 
Coast  S.  S.  Co.,  coast-line  (for  Santa  Barbara,  Los  Angeles,  and  San  Diego, 
Thurs.  and  Sat.,  Pier  19,  foot  of  Union  St.;  for  Puget  Sound  and  Alaska, 
Pier  9,  foot  of  Broadway). 

British  Consul,  Mr.  Courtenay  Walter  Bennett,  520  Battery  St. 

San  Francisco^  the  largest  city  of  California  and  tlie  Pacific 
Coast  and  the  ninth  city  of  the  United  States,  is  grandly  situated 
in  37®  47'  N.  lat.,  at  the  N.  end  of  a peninsula  30  M.  long,  separat- 
ing the  Pacific  Ocean  from  San  Francisco  Bay  (see  p.  551).  The 
city  lies  mainly  on  the  shore  of  the  hay  and  on  the  steep  hills  rising 
from  it,  hut  is  gradually  extending  across  the  peninsula  (here  6 M. 
wide)  to  the  ocean.  On  the  N.  it  is  hounded  hy  the  famous  "^Golden 
Oate^  the  narrow  entrance  (1  M.  across)  to  San  Francisco  Bay. 
The  city  is  on  the  whole  well  and  substantially  huilt  hut  contains 
fewer  large  buildings  of  architectural  importance  than  any  other 
city  of  its  size  in  the  country.  In  1900  it  contained  342,782  inhah., 
including  about  10,000  Chinese  (comp.  p.  549)  and  3500-4000 
Japanese. 

The  Mission  of  San  Francisco  (see  p.  548)  was  founded  by  the  Mexi- 
cans in  1776,  but  the  modern  city  really  sprang  from  the  village  of  Yerba 
Buena  (‘good  herb’’,  i.  e.  wild  mint),  founded  in  1835,  about  3 M.  to  the  W. 
In  1846  Yerba  Buena  came  under  the  American  flag,  and  in  the  following 
year  its  name  was  changed  to  San  Francisco.  In  1848,  the  year  of  the  dis- 
covery of  gold  in  California,  its  population  was  about  500;  in  1850  it  was 
about  25,00(),  and  each  subsequent  decade  has  seen  an  extraordinary  in- 
crease (56,802  in  1860;  149,473  in  1870;  233,956  in  1880  ; 293,997  in  1890). 
San  Francisco  received  a city-charter  in  1850,  but  its  corrupt  municipal 
government  led  in  1856  to  the  formation  of  a Vigilance  Committee,  which 
took  the  law  into  its  own  hands  and  made  a very  thorough  reformation 
(comp.  p.  547).  — To  make  the  present  site  of  San  Francisco  suitable  for 
a large  city,  an  immense  amount  of  work  had  to  be  done  in  cutting  down 
hills  and  ridges,  filling  up  gullies,  and  reclaiming  the  mud  flats  on  the 
bay  (comp.  p.  99).  The  city,  however,  is  still  remarkably  hilly;  and  one 
of  its  most  characteristic  sights  is  the  cable-cars  crawling  up  the  steep 
inclines  like  flies  on  a window-pane. 

The  Climate  of  San  Francisco  is  wonderfully  equable.  The  mean 
annual  temperature  is  about  57°Fahr.,  and  no  month  varies  to  any  great 
extent  from  this  average.  September  has  the  highest  average  (about  61°), 
and  a few  hot  days  (80-90°)  occur  about  midsummer.  The  mean  tempera- 
ture of  January  is  about  50°.  Visitors  should  always  have  warm*  wraps  at 
hand,  especially  in  the  afternoon,  when  a strong  wind  usually  blows  in 
from  the  sea.  The  summer  climate  is  not  generally  considered  beneficial 

Baedeker's  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  35 


546  Boute  95. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Marhel  Street. 


for  persons  of  weak  lungs,  owing  to  this  wind,  the  fog  brought  in  by  it’ 
and  the  sand  driven  by  it;  but  this  has  been  greatly  ameliorated  of  lat® 
years  by  the  asphalting  and  paving  of  the  streets  and  the  laying  out  o 
Golden  Gate  Park.  The  man  of  ordinary  health  finds  the  air  invigorating^ 
and  stimulating  all  the  year  round.  The  annual  rainfall  is  25  inches.  — 
Earthquakes  occur  occasionally  in  San  Francisco  but  are  never  very  de- 
structive. The  severest  (1868)  damaged  .some  old  and  badly  built  structures 
and  caused  the  loss  of  one  life. 

The  Commerce  of  San  Francisco  is  extensive,  the  annual  value  of  its 
exports  and  imports  amounting  to  about  $210,000,000.  Among  the  chief 
exports  are  gold  and  silver,  wine , fruit,  wool,  oil,  lumber,  flour,  and 
bread-stuffs;  the  imports  include  coal,  timber,  rice,  sugar,  tea,  and  coffee. 
The  Manufactures  include  iron,  flour,  silk  and  woollen  goods,  canned  fruits 
and  vegetables,  leather  and  shoes , liquors,  ship-building,  meat-packing, 
carriages,  silver-ware,  sugar,  glass,  brass,  machinery,  cigars,  cordage,  etc., 
and  had  in  1900  a value  of  $ 133,070,000  (est.  in  1903,  $ 152,500,000).  Industry 
has  been  much  stimulated  of  late  by  the  discovery  of  oil  in  the  State, 
affording  a cheap  and  admirable  fuel  (20, (XX), COO  barrels  produced  in  1903). 

The  Population  is  very  heterogeneous,  every  European  nationality 
being  represented  here,  to  say  nothing  of  the  Mexicans,  Chinese  (p.  549), 
Japanese,  Africans  (relatively  few),  Filipinos,  Haw’^aians,  and  other  non- 
European  races. 

Market  Street  (PI.  G-C,  2-7),  the  chief  business-thoroughfare, 
extends  to  the  S.W.  from  the  ’^‘Umon  Ferry  Depot  (PI.  G,  2),  a hand- 
some structure  by  A.  Page  Brown,  with  a tower  250  ft.  high,  to  a 
point  near  the  twin  Mission  Peaks  (935  ft.),  a distance  of  about  3^2 

The  Ferry  Depot  contains  the  Alaskan  Museum  (upper  floor;  open  free 
on  Mon.,  Wed.,  & Frid.,  9-5);  the  Agricultural  Collections  of  the  Board  of 
Trade;  the  Pacific  Commercial  Museum;  and  the  Btate  Mining  Bureau^  with 
an  interesting  collection  of  Californian  minerals  and  relics  (these  three  open 
free  on  week-days,  9-5). 

Following  Market  St.  towards  the  S.W.,  we  pass,  at  the  intersec- 
tion with  Battery  St.,  the  Labour  Monument^  a vigorous  bronze  group 
by  Douglas  Tilden  (1899),  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  Peter  Donahue 
of  the  Union  Iron  Works  (p.  551).  At  the  triangle  formed  by  the 
meeting  of  Market,  Kearny,  and  3rd  Sts.  rises  the  tall  Spreckels 
Building  (300  ft.  high)  and  the  Chronicle  Building  (PI.  F,  3),  the 
top  of  either  of  which  affords  a good  bird’s-eye  view  of  the  city 
from  a central  point. 

This  view,  an  excellent  way  to  begin  the  inspection  of  the  city,  may 
be  supplemented  by  following  Kearney  Street  (PI.  F,  1-3),  with  many  of 
the  best  shops,  to  "Telegraph  Kill  (PI.  F,  1;  295ft.),  which  commands  a 
good  view  of  the  Golden  Gate  (p.  545),  the  water-front  of  the  City,  the  Bay, 
Mt.  Tamalpais  (K.W.;  p.  5ol),  Mt.  Diablo  (K.K.E.;  p.  553),  etc. 

Continuing  to  follow  Market  St.  towards  the  S.W.  from  the 
Chronicle  Building,  we  pass  many  large  office-buildings.  To  the 
right,  at  the  corner  of  Grant  Ave.  (PI.  F,  3),  is  the  Phelan  Building^ 
with  various  military  offices.  Farrell  Street  {VI.  C-F,  4),  running 
to  the  W.  from  this  corner,  contains  several  theatres.]  To  the  left 
(819  Market  St.)  stands  the  Academy  of  Sciences  (PI.  F,  4),  containing 
a fine  inside  staircase  of  gray  Californian  marble,  a library  of 
10,000  vols.,  a museum  of  natural  history  (week-days,  9-5;  free), 
and  the  rooms  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  California.  Adjacent 
is  the  huge  Parrott  Building^  which  contains  the  Emporium ,,  the 


City  Hall. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


95.  Route.  547 


‘Whiteley’s’  of  San  Francisco,  and  also  houses  the  California  Histori- 
cal Society  (good  library).  On  the  right,  at  the  corner  of  Powell  St. , 
is  the  large  Flood  Building. 

The  three  learned  societies  just  mentioned  offer  much  that  is  of  interest 
to  the  scholarly  visitor,  and  the  historical  student  should  also  inspect  some 
of  the  old  Spanish  grants  in  the  Surveyor  General  s Office  (612  Commercial  St.). 

Powell  St.  leads  to  Union  Square  (PI.  F,  3),  with  the  St.  Francis  Hotel 
(p.  543)  and  a Naval  Monument  commemorating  Ihe  exploits  of  the  U.  S. 
fleet  in  the  Philippines  during  the  war  with  Spain  (1898). 

At  the  junction  of  Market  St.  with  Mason  St.  (PI.  F,  4)  is  a 
Monument,  hy  Douglas  Tilden , commemorating  the  admission  of 
California  to  the  Union  (1850).  [In  Mason  St.  is  the  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
Building.~\  At  the  corner  of  Taylor  St.  is  the  Donahue  Building.  To 
the  left,  at  the  corner  of  7th  St.  (PI.  E,  4),  is  the  Grant  Building  and 
opposite  stands  the  tall  clock-tower  of  the  Odd  Fellows  Hall,  and 
between  them  we  catch  a glimpse  of  the  long  frontage  of  the  new 
Post  Office  (PI.  E,  F,  4;  p.  544).  — Just  beyond  this  corner  we  reach 
a small  triangular  park, with  the  large  Californian  Monument,  designed 
by  Frank  Happersberger  and  presented  to  the  city  by  Mr.  James  Lick 
(comp.  p.  558).  Adjoining  this  park,  on  the  spot  that  served  as  the 
pioneer  burial-ground  of  Yerba  Buena,  stands  the  large  City  Hall 
(PI.  E,  4,  5),  an  effective  and  original  structure,  erected  in  1892-96 
at  a cost  of  over  $ 4,000,000  (800, 000^.).  It  contains  a Free  Public 
Library,  with  153,000  volumes.  — Farther  along  Market  St.  are  the 
Mechanics'  Pavilion  (PI.  E,  5),  a large  hall  belonging  to  the  Mechanics' 
Institute  (31  Post  St.,  with  a library  of  116,000  vols.),  and  the  im- 
portant Church  and  College  of  St.  Ignatius  (PI.  E,  5). 

The  TJ.  S.  Branch  Mint  (PL  F,  4),  in  5th  St.,  at  the  corner  of 
Mission  St.,  contains  interesting  machinery  and  a collection  of  coins 
and  relics  (adm.  on  week-days,  9-12).  In  1903  it  coined  bullion 
to  the  value  of  $36,256,716  in  U.  S.  currency,  besides  ‘Philippine 
money’  to  the  value  of  41,361,000  pesos. 

Among  the  other  chief  buildings  in  the  business-quarter  are  the 
Stoch  Exchange  (PI.  F,  3) , 329  Pine  St. ; the  Merchants'  Exchange 
(PI.  F,  3),  and  the  Bank  of  California  (PI.  F,  3),  California  St. ; the 
First  National  Bank  (PL  F,  3),  at  the  corner  of  Bush  and  Sansome 
Sts.  The  Crocker  Building,  the  lofty  Mills  Building,  the  Hayward 
Building,  and  the  Offices  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  are  in  Mont- 
gomery St.  (PI.  F,  1-3),  the  first  and  principal  thoroughfare  of  the 
early  town.  — The  "^California  Market  (PL  F,  3),  extending  from 
California  St.  to  Pine  St.,  presents  a wonderful  show  of  fruits  and 
vegetables  (best  in  the  early  morning).  — Mission  Street  (PL  E-H, 
5-3)  contains  the  headquarters  of  the  colossal  Wells,  Fargo,  ^ Co. 
express  agency,  the  tall  Rialto  Building,  and  many  wholesale  houses. 
— A bronze  tablet  at  No.  219  Sacramento  St.  (PL  G,  2),  marks  the 
site  of  ’‘Fort  Gunnybags\  the  headquarters  of  the  Vigilance  Committee 
of  1856  (comp.  p.  545).  — At  the  corner  of  Battery  and  Washington 
Sts.  stands  the  Custom  House  (PL  F,  2),  a characteristic  relic  of  the 

35* 


548  Route  95. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Presidio. 


early  town.  — The  Mercantile  Library  (PL  E,  4),  the  oldest  library 
in  the  state  (1853),  with  an  excellent  collection  of  80,000  vols.,  is  in- 
stalled in  a handsome  and  well- equipped  building  in  Sutter  St.  — At 
24  Fourth  St.  is  the  building  of  the  Society  of  Californian  Pioneers 
(FI.  F,  4).  — The  California  Eye  ^ Ear  Hospital  (PI.  E,  3)  is  in 
Sutter  St.  — In  Portsmouth  Square  (PI.  F,  2),  bounded  by  Kearny, 
Washington,  Dupont,  and  Clay  Sts.  and  Brenham  Place,  is  a monument 
(by  Bruce  Porter  and  Willis  Polk)  to  Robert  Louis  Stevenson  (1850-94  ), 
in  the  form  of  a Spanish  galleon  on  a granite  pedestal.  On  the  W. 
side  of  the  square  stands  the  Hall  of  Justice,  an  excellent  new 
building.  — A little  to  the  N.W.  is  Washington  Square  (PI.  F,  2), 
where  the  Russian  Church,  like  the  neighbouring*  jR-wssian  Hill  (W.), 
keeps  alive  the  memory  of  the  Russian  traders. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  historical  relics  of  San  Francisco  is 
the  old  Mission  Dolores  (PI.  D,  7 ; see  p.  545),  at  the  corner  of  Do- 
lores and  16th  Sts.  (reached  by  16th  St.  cars,  with  transfer  from 
Valencia  St.  or  Mission  St.  lines).  The  old  church,  dating  from 
about  1778,  is  built  of  adobe  (‘adoby’),  and  is  adjoined  by  a tangled 
and  neglected  little  churchyard.  Adjacent  is  a new  R.  C.  church  of 
no  special  interest,  and  opposite  is  the  imposing  College  of  Notre 
Dame  (R.  C.). 

Among  the  educational  institutions  of  San  Francisco  may  be 
mentioned  the  Cooper  Medical  College  (PI.  C,  D,  3);  the  handsome 
buildings  of  the  Medical  and  Legal  Departments  of  the  University 
of  California,  known  as  the  Affiliated  Colleges,  near  Golden  Gate  Park 
(PI.  A,  7 ; comp.  p.  550) ; the  Cogswell  Polytechnic  School  (cor. 
Folsom  and  26th  Sts.);  the  California  School  of  Mechanical  Arts 
(Utah  St.,  PI.  F,  6 ; founded  by  Mr.  James  Lick,  p.  558);  the  Boys^  High 
School  fPl.  D,  3);  the  Girls'  High  School  (cor.  Geary  and  Scott  Sts.; 
PI.  0,  4) ; and  the  Mission  High  School,  an  attractive  building  at  the 
corner  of  18th  and  Dolores  Sts.  (PI.  D,  7).  San  Francisco  possesses 
about  100  Kindergartens,  20  of  which  are  endowed  in  perpetuity. 
The  Central  Kindergarten,  560  Union  St.,  is  probably  the  most 
perfectly  equipped  in  the  world. 

The  Presidio  (PI.  A,  1,  2),  or  Government  Military  Reservation 
(approached  by  the  California  St. , Union  St. , or  Jackson  St.  cable 
cars),  garrisoned  by  two  regiments  of  U.  S.  infantry,  besides  cavalry 
and  coast  artillery,  has  an  area  of  1500  acres  and  stretches  along  the 
Golden  Gate  for  about  4 M.  Its  walks  and  drives  afford  beautiful 
views,  the  finest,  perhaps,  being  that  from  Fort  Point  or  Winfield 
Scott.  A military  band  plays  at  the  Presidio  on  Mon.,  Wed.,  & Frid., 
3-4  p.m.  — There  is  another  small  military  reservation  at  Black 
Point  (PI.  D,  1;  reached  by  Union  St.  cars),  with  Fort  Mason. 

‘Nob  Hill’  was  the  name  given  about  1870  to  that  section  of 
California  Street  between  Powell  St.  and  Leavenworth  St.  (PI.  E, 
F,  3),  as  containing  many  of  the  largest  private  residences  in  San 


Chinese  Quarter.  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


95.  Route.  549 

Francisco.  Most  of  these  are  of  wood,  and  no  expense  was  spared  to 
make  them  luxurious  dwellings,  but  a great  opportunity  to  develop 
something  fine  in  timber  architecture  was  lost  in  an  unfortunate 
attempt  to  reproduce  forms  that  are  suitable  for  stone  buildings  only. 
Many  of  these  houses  are  now  deserted  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
year  and  the  ‘HilF  has  lost  its  vogue  as  a residential  quarter;  but  a 
good  idea  of  these  buildings  may  be  obtained  by  a visit  to  the  former 
residence  of  Mr.  Mark  Hopkins,  at  the  corner  of  Mason  St.,  now  the 
Mark  Hopkins  Institute  of  Art  (PI.  F,  3),  which  contains  some  well- 
executed  wood-work  (not  in  the  best  of  taste)  and  a collection  of 
various  objects  of  art  belonging  to  the  University  of  California  (open 
on  week-days,  9-5  ; adm.  25  c. ; free  on  the  1st  Frid.  of  each  month). 

The  present  fashionable  residential  quarter  is  on  Pacific  Heights, 
including  the  parts  of  Jackson  St.  {Teois  House j at  the  cor.  of 
Taylor  St.)  and  of  Washington  St.,  Pacific  Ave.,  and  Central  Ave. 
There  are  also  imposing  houses  in  Van  Ness  Ave.,  such  as  the 
Spreckels  House,  at  the  corner  of  Clay  St.  (PI.  D,  3). 

At  the  corner  of  Lyon  & Washington  Sts.  (PI.  B,  3)  is  the  tiny  JSweden- 
borgian  Church,  containing  simple  yet  fine  wood- work  and  adorned  with 
beautiful  paintings  by  Wm.  Keith  and  '^‘Stained  Glass  by  Brace  Porter. 

The  ^Chinese  Quarter  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  charac- 
teristic features  of  San  Francisco,  and  no  one  should  leave  the  city 
without  visiting  it.  It  may  be  roughly  defined  as  lying  between  Stock- 
ton,  Sacramento,  Kearny,  and  Pacific  Streets  (comp.  PI.  F,  2)  and 
consists  partly  of  tall  tenement  buildings,  divided  by  narrow  alleys 
and  swarming  with  occupants,  but  mainly  of  the  mansions  of  the  early 
settlers  of  the  ‘Fifties’,  converted  to  their  own  uses  by  the  Chinese.  This 
hillside,  sloping  up  from  the  old  Plaza,  now  Portsmouth  Sq.  (comp, 
p.  548),  was  the  earliest  substantial  residential  quarter  of  the  young 
town,  and  many  of  its  once  grand  houses  remain  intact  as  to  fabric. 

the  day  strangers  may  visit  Chinatown  unattended  without 
danger;  but  the  most  interesting  time  to  visit  it  is  at  night,  when  every- 
thing IS  in  full  swing  until  after  midnight,  and  it  is  then  necessary  to  be 
accompanied  by  a regular  guide.  The  guides,  who  are  generally  detec- 
tives, may  be  procured  at  the  hotels  and  charge  $5  for  a party  of  not 

features  of  Chinatown  is  the 
Theatres  (adm.  10-2oc.;  for  white  visitors,  who  are  taken  on  to  the  stage, 
oOc.j,  remarkable  for  the  length  of  the  performances  (a  single  play  often 
extending  over  days  or  even  weeks),  the  primitive  scenery  and  absence  of 
illusion,  the  discordant  music,  the  curious-looking  audience,  the  gorgeous 
costumes,  and  the  seeming  want  of  plot  and  action.  No  women  appear 
tbe  female  parts  are  taken  by  men.  Among  the  other 
points  of  interest  usually  visited  by  strangers  are  the  Jo&s  Houses  (where 
visitors  are  expected  to  buy  bundles  of  scented  incense-tapers),  the  Opium 
(extraordinary  remedies),  the  Curiosity  Shops,  etc. 
ihe  visit  IS  usually  wound  up  at  one  of  the  Chmese  Restaurants  in  Dupont 
be  enjoyed  of  tea  and  various  Chinese  delicacies  may 

Chinatown  contains  about  10,000  inhabitants,  their  numbers  having 
been  lessened  of  late  years  by  the  working  of  the  Exclusion  Act.  A large 
proportion  of  these  are  men,  and  children  are  scarce.  There  are  several 
Chinese  Missions  with  schools,  etc. 

To  the  S.  of  Chinatown  is  the  Japanese  Quarter;  and  to  the  K.,  spreading 


550  Route  95. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Excursions. 


about  the  base  of  Telegraph  Hill,  is  tbe  so-named  Latin  Quarter,  peopled 
by  Italians,  Greeks,  Mexicans,  and  a few  Germans.  Their  bouses,  shops, 
and  restaurants  are  most  characteristic. 

The  largest  of  tbe  public  parks  of  San  Francisco  is  ^GoldenGate 
Park  (PI.  A,  5,  6;  reached  by  several  lines  of  electric  and  cable  cars), 
which  extends  from  Stanyan  St.  to  (3  M.)  the  Pacific  Ocean,  with 
an  area  of  1013  acres  and  a width  of  V2  M.  It  is  prolonged  towards 
the  E.  by  the  long  and  narrow  ‘Pan  Handle’  (PI.  B,  5, 6).  The  landward 
end  of  the  park  is  tastefully  laid  out  and  planted  with  trees  (eucalyptus, 
Monterey  cypress,  Monterey  pine,  etc.),  but  the  seaward  end  is  still 
in  the  condition  of  bare  sand-dunes  characteristic  of  the  entire 
peninsula.  The  reclaimed  portion  of  the  park  contains  monuments 
to  President  Garfield,  Francis  Scott  Key  (author  of  the  ‘Star-spangled 
Banner’-  by  W.  W.  Story),  Gen.  Halleck,  Thomas  Starr  King  (by 
Daniel  6.  French),  Balboa  (by  Linden),  and  President  McKinley  (by 
Roltert  I.  Aitkin;  at  the  Baker  St.  entrance).  The  park  also  contains 
the  Crocker  Conservatory,  with  specimens  of  the  Victoria  Regia  lily 
and  other  rare  exotics;  a children’s  play-ground;  a tennis-court ; and 
a charming  Japanese  tea-house  and  garden.  Here,  too,  is  the  Art 
Gallery  of  the  Midwinter  Exhibition  of  1894,  now  containing  an 
interesting  Museum  (daily,  9-4),  with  a collection  of  South  Sea 
implements,  Chinese  and  Japanese  articles,  French  and  Flemish  laces 
and  fans,  and  admirable  specimens  of  the  basket-work  of  the  California 
Indians.  Good  views  are  obtained  of  the  Golden  Gate  and  (from  the 
W.  end)  of  the  surf  rolling  in  on  the  ocean-beach,  especially  from 
Strawberry  Hill,  the  most  conspicuous  point  in  the  Park.  This  is 
crowned  by  a picturesque  Observatory,  and  near  by,  on  a lower  em- 
inence, rises  ‘Prayer-Book  Cross’,  commemorating  the  landing  in  the 
bay  of  Sir  Francis  Drake  and  the  first  Church  of  England  service  on 
this  shore.  Band  on  Sun.  afternoons  in  fine  weather.  — Hill  Park, 
now  Buena  Vista  (Pi.  B,  C,  6),  1/2^.  from  the  E.  end  of  Golden 
Gate  Park,  commands  fine  views  (highest  point  5^0  tt.). 

Near  the  N.E.  corner  of  Golden  Gate  Park  is  a group  of  cem- 
eteries (no  longer  used  for  burials),  the  largest  of  which  is  the  ’I^aurel 
Hill  Cemetery  (PI.  A,  B,  4),  containing  many  fine  monuments.  The 
adjoining  Calvary  Cemetery,  formerly  * Lone  Mountain  (PI.  B,  4; 
470  ft.),  the  top  of  which  is  marked  by  a large  wooden  cross,  com- 
mands a splendid  *View  of  the  city,  the  Ocean,  San  Francisco  Bay, 
the  Golden  Gate,  Mt.  Tamalpais,  and  Mt.  Diablo.  The  Yerba  Buena 
(p.  551)  grows  on  Lone  Mt.  — The  Presidio  Reservation  (p.  548)  lies 
a little  to  the  N.  of  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery. 

Excuesions.  The  most  popular  short  excursion  from  San  Francisco 
is  that  to  (6  M.)  Point  Lohos,  with  Suiro  B eights , the  ff 

Sipal  Rocks  which  may  be  reached  by  driving  via  the  Golden  Gate  Faik 
or  Geary  St.  (Point  Lobos  Avenue),  by  the  ‘Ellis  St.,  Park,  ^ud  Ocean  ^^ac 
electric  tramway  (p.  551),  skirting  the  S.  side  of  nn  p 4^ 

the  Cliff  Railway  from  the  N.E.  corner  ol  Laurel  Hill  f ’ 

transfer  at  Central  Avenue  from  several  car-lines).  It  is  advisable  to  go 
one  w^y  and  return  another.  The  through-fare,  incl.  transfers,  is  5 c.  The 


Excursions, 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


95.  Route.  561 


Cliff  Railway  skirts  the  rocks  overhanging  the  Oolden  Gate  (p.  545),  of 
which  it  affords  a magnificent  " View,  and  ends  near  the  entrance  to  ■ Sutro 
Heights  Park,  the  beautifully  laid-out  grounds  of  the  late  Mr.  Adolph 
Sutro  (freely  open  to  the  public).  The  fine  trees  and  plants  here  grow 
luxuriantly  on  the  originally  sandy  but  now  well-watered  site.  The  statuary 
could  be  dispensed  with.  Fine  "‘View  from  the  terrace  over  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  with  the  Farralone  Islands  30  M.  to  the  W.  (lighthouse).  At  our 
feet  lies  the  "Cliff  House,  a hotel  and  restaurant.  The  chief  attraction 
here  is  the  view  from  the  piazza  of  the  "Seal  Rocks,  a stone's  throw 
from  the  land,  which  are  covered  with  hundreds  of  huge  sea-lions  (Span. 
lohos  marinos\  basking  in  the  sun.  Some  of  the  animals  are  12-15  ft.  long 
and  weigh  from  1000  lbs.  upwards  5 and  their  evolutions  in  the  water  are 
very  interesting.  Their  singular  barking  is  easily  audible  amid  the  roar 
of  the  breakers.  Near  the  Cliff  House  are  the  huge  and  magnificent  *Sutro 
Public  Baths,  with  salt-water  swimming  pools,  an  aquarium,  restaurants, 
and  a theatre.  — The  station  of  the  Ocean  Beach  Railway  (see  p.  550)  lies 
on  the  beach,  a little  to  the  S.  of  the  Cliff  House.  Drivers  who  have  come 
by  Geary  St.  or  Golden  Gate  Park  may  vary  the  route,  in  returning,  by 
following  the  beach  for  about  3 M.  and  then  taking  the  San  Miguel  Toll 
or  Mission  Pass  Road  (comp.  Plan;  fine  views).  To  the  right,  near  the 
beginning  of  this  road,  lies  Lake  Merced. 

Among  the  short  drives  or  trips  by  electric  car  from  San  Francisco 
may  be  mentioned  that  to  Mt.  San  Bruno  (1325  ft.),  7 M.  to  the  S.  (2  M. 
from  Baden,  p.  556),  a good  point  of  view.  — A drive  along  the  water-front 
gives  some  idea  of  the  commercial  activity  of  San  Francisco  and  may  include 
visits  to  the  large  Union  Iron  Works  (by  permission  obtained  at  city-office) 
at  Potrero  Point  (PI.  H,  7 ; also  accessible  by  electric  car),  where  iron  ships 
of  war  are  built,  and  to  the  Dry  Dock  at  Hunter"' s Point. 

The  Government  Posts  in  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  may  be  visited  by 
the  steamer  ‘General  McDowelF,  which  sails  thrice  daily  from  the  foot  of 
Washington  St.  (PI.  G,2)  to  Alcatraz,  Angel  Island,  Fort  Mason  (Black  Point), 
and  the  Presidio  (permit  for  any  day  except  Thurs.  and  Sun.  at  the  Military 
Headquarters  in  the  Phelan  Building,  p.  546).  Alcatraz  Island  is  strongly 
fortified  and  contains  a military  prison  and  a torpedo  station.  Angel  Island 
is  also  fortified,  and  serves  as  the  Quarantine  Station.  Yerba  Buena,  known 
popularly  as  Goat  Island,  is  the  naval  training -station,  and  the  ‘Pensacola’, 
an  old  man-of-war,  is  moored  here  as  a school-ship.  The  Presidio  and  Fort 
Mason  are  described  at  p.  548.  — ^The  largest  naval  station  near  San  Francisco 
is  at  Mare  Island,  reached  via  Vallejo  Junction  and  Vallejo  (see  p.  552). 
The  island  is  the  headquarters  of  the  U.  8.  Pacific  Naval  Squadron  and  of 
the  U.  8.  Marine  Corps,  and  contains  a Navy  Yard,  with  large  dry  docks 
and  interesting  machinery. 

"San  Francisco  Bay,  a noble  sheet  of  water  50  M.  long  and  10  M. 
wide,  gives  San  Francisco  one  of  the  grandest  harbours  in  the  world  and  af- 
fords numerous  charming  excursions.  The  various  Ferries  start  from  the 
foot  of  Market  St.  (Pl.G,  2).  A steamer  starts  daily  from  the  foot  of  Mission 
St.,  morning  and  afternoon,  making  the  round  of  the  bay.  Excursion- 
steamers  also  ply  sometimes  through  the  Golden  Gate  to  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
standing  out  to  sea  for  a short  distance  and  then  returning. 

(1).  The  steamer  starting  farthest  to  the  N.  plies  to  the  N.  across  the 
Bay,  affording  a good  view  of  the  Golden  Gate  (left)  and  Belvedere  (right), 
a hilly  peninsula  jutting  into  the  bay  from  the  N.  shore,  with  many  summer 
homes  and  a hotel,  to  (6  M.)  Sausalito  ( Geneva,  Hollyoaks),  a pleasant  little 
yachting,  bathing,  and  fishing  resort,  with  many  scrub-oaks  and  a few 
laurels,  eucalyptus-trees,  and  willows  (sausal;  the  last  once  much  more 
numerous).  A pleasant  walk,  with  good  views  of  the  Golden  Gate,  leads 
round  the  promontory  via  Lime  Point  to  (4  M.)  Bonita  Point,  the  N.  horn 
of  the  Golden  Gate  (lighthouse). 

[From  Sausalito  the  North  Shore  Electric  Railway  (‘third-rail’  system) 
runs  to  the  N.  to  (81  M.)  Cazadero.  — From  (5  M.)  Mill  Valley,  a charming 
region,  thick  with  villas  and  cottages,  on  a branch  of  this  line,  a winding 
mountain-railway  (views)  ascends  to  (8^/4  M.)  the  top  of  Mt.  Tamalpais 


552  Route  95. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Excursions. 


(2604  ft.;  2 hrs.  from  San  Francisco;  through-fare  $1.15,  return  $1.90). 
The  railway  terminates  at  the  Tavern  of  Tamalpais  (from  $3),  about  200  ft. 
below  the  summit.  The  *View  from  the  top  includes  the  Paciflc  Ocean, 
the  Coast  Range,  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  Santa  Cruz  Mts.,  the  Contra  Costa 
Hills  (overtopped  by  Mt.  Hamilton),  Mt.  Diablo,  San  Francisco,  and  San 
Francisco  Bay.  A trail  has  been  cut  from  the  railway  to  Bolinas  Ridge.,  etc. 
From  Mill  Valley  excursions  may  also  be  made  to  the  Red  Wood  Canon  and 
other  points  of  interest.  — 10  M.  San  Anselmo.,  the  junction  of  a short  line 
to  San  Rafael  (see  below);  24  M.  Camp  Taylor;  26  M.  Tocaloma;  32  M. 
Point  Reyes.,  a shooting  and  fishing  preserve,  at  the  head  of  Tomales  Bay. 
Beyond  (63  M.)  Occidental  (600  ft.)  we  pass  through  a fine  redwood  district. 
— 81  M.  Cazadero  {fCazadero  Hotel.,  $ 2),  a favourite  sporting  and  summer 
resort  in  the  midst  of  the  redwoods.  Stages  run  hence  to  the  N.  along 
the  coast.] 

(2) .  The  second  ferry  plies  to  (6  M.)  Tiburon,  the  starting-point  of  the 
railway  to  San  Rafael.,  Petaluma.,  and  Willits  (see  below) 

[From  Tiburon  to  Willits,  132  M.,  California  North-Western  Railway.,  in 
7 hrs. — 9 M.  San  Rafael  (generally  pron.  ‘SanRafell’;  "Hotel  Rafael.,  from 
$3;  Jordan.,  $1V2;  many  small  hotels  and  boarding-houses),  a charming 
little  resort,  affording  a pleasant  and  balmy  relief  from  the  dusty  winds  of 
San  Francisco,  should  be  visited  by  every  tourist,  especially  in  the  time 
of  roses.  It  may  also  be  reached  from  Sausalito  by  (12  M.)  the  North  Shore 
Railway.  — 31  M.  Petaluma  (American  Hotel,  $2),  with  3871  inhab.,  has 
a thriving  trade  in  grain  and  fruit.  At  (46  M.)  Santa  Rosa  (Grand,  Occidental, 

$ 2)  an  omnibus  meets  trains  for  (2V2  M. ; fare  50  c.)  White  Sulphur  Springs. 
51  M.  Fulton.,  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  Querneville  and  Camp  Vacation., 
18  M.);  52  M.  Mark  West,  with  sulphur  springs;  60  M.  Healdshurg.  From 
(68  M.)  Geyserville  stages  run  to  (3  M.)  Skaggs''  Springs,  with  a number 
of  warm  sulphur  springs.  — From  (78  M.)  Cloverdale  (United  States  Hotel, 

$ 1V2-2V2)  a stage-coach  runs  to  (18  M. ; fare  $ 2)  the  "'Geyser  Springs  (2000  ft. ; 
Hotel,  $21/2),  a number  of  boiling  springs  in  the  DeviVs  Canon,  near  the 
Pluton  River.  These  springs  vary  greatly  in  temperature,  appearance,  and 
character,  but  there  are  no  true  geysers  among  them  (comp.  p.  4!r’5).  The 
accepted  theory  ascribes  them  to  chemical  action.  A guide  is  procured  at 
the  hotel  to  point  out  and  name  the  most  interesting  features.  The  Geyser 
Springs  may  also  be  reached dfrom  Calistoga  (p.  553).  — Beyond  Cloverdale 
the  line  continues  to  run  towards  the  N.,  with  the  Russian  River  at  some 
distance  to  the  right.  From  (92  M.)  Hopland  stages  ply  to  various  points 
in  the  picturesque  Clear  Lake  District  (numerous  mineral  springs).  92  M. 
Ukiah.  — It  is  proposed  to  extend  the  line  from  (132  M.)  Willits,  the  present 
terminus,  to  Eureka,  on  Humboldt  Bay.  Stages  now  cover  the  gap  between 
Willits  and  Scotia,  to  which  point  the  railway  has  been  built,  23  M.  to  the  S. 
of  Eureka.] 

(3) .  The  third  ferry  is  that  to  Oakland,  already  mentioned  at  p.  503. 
This  is  the  route  for  the  chief  railways  to  the  N.,  S.,  and  E.  and  also  for 
the  San  Francisco,  Oakland,  & San  Josi  Electric  Railway,  commonly  known 
as  the  ‘Key  Route’. 

(4) .  Another  line  plies  to  (3  M.)  Alameda  Mole,  whence  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railway  runs  to  (6  M.)  Alameda  {Park  Hotel,  from  $2^/2;  Leona), 
a pleasant  Suburban  town  (16,464  inhab  ),  adjoining  Oakland  on  the  S., 
with  attractive  gardens  and  well-kept  streets.  The  narrow-gauge  line  to 
Santa  Cruz  (R.  b‘6)  also  begins  at  Alameda  Mole. 

From  San  Francisco  to  Calistoga,  73  M.,  Southern  Pacific  Railway  in 
3V4-3V2  hrs.  — From  San  Francisco  to  (29  M.)  Vallejo  Junction,  see  p.  502. 
We  then  cross  the  strait  by  steamer  to  (31  M.)  South  Vallejo.  32  M.  North 
Vallejo  (‘Vallayho’),  a small  town  of  7985  inhab.,  opposite  Mare  Island 
(p.  551).  The  train  now  runs  to  the  N.  through  the  fertile  ^'Napa  Valley, 
which  is  especially  rich  in  grapes  and  other  fruits.  — From  (38  M.)  Napa 
Junction  branch-lines  run  to  (13  M.)  Suisun  (p.  502),  and  to  Sonoma  (p.  553), 
Glen  Ellen,  and  Santa  Rosa  (see  above).  From  (46  M.)  Napa  (hotel,  $2),  a 
busy  little  city  of  4036  inhab.,  we  may  drive  to  the  (6  M.)  Napa  Soda  Spring^' 
Beyond  (55  M.)  Yountville  we  traverse  extensive  vineyards.  64  M.  St.  Helena, 


Excursions. 


SAN  FRANCISCO. 


95.  Route.  663 


with  many  fine  vineyards,  is  the  starting-point  of  stages  to  White  Sulphvr 
Springs  (2  M.  ^ 25  c.),  £:tna  Springs  (16  M. ; stage  daily  in  3 hrs.  ^ fare  $11/2), 
and  Angevin^  on  Howell  Mountain.^  a plateau  of  pine  and  balsam  firs,  famous 
for  curative  results  in  throat  and  lung  maladies.  — 73 M.  Calistoga  {Calistoga., 
$2),  the  terminus  of  the  railway,  is  a pretty  little  town  of  1200  inhab.,  with 
several  warm  mineral  springs.  About  5 M.  to  the  W.  is  the  curious  ^•^Petri- 
fied Forest.^  a tract  4 M.  long  and  1 M.  wide,  over  which  are  scattered  the 
remains  of  about  100  petrified  trees.  — About  12  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  Ca- 
listoga rises  Mt.  St.  Helena  (4345  ft.),  an  extinct  volcano,  which  may  be 
ascended  on  horseback  and  affords  an  extensive  view.  Hear  by  is  R.  L. 
Stevenson’s  ‘Silverado’.  From  Calistoga  stage-coaches  run  daily  to  (27  M. ; 
$2  30)  the  Geyser  Springs  (p.^552)  and  to  points  in  Clear  Lake  District  (p.  552). 

From  San  Francisco  to  Mount  Diablo.  — We  proceed  by  ferry  and 
train  to  (36  M.)  Martinez^  as  described  at  p.  564,  and  there  take  the  San 
branch -line  (S.  P.  R.)  to  (13  M.)  Walnut  Creek.  Here  horses  and 
carriages  can  be  hired  for  (7  M.)  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  of  which  two- 
thirds  may  be  done  in  carriage,  the  remainder  on  horseback  or  on  foot. 
Mt.  Diablo  (3855  ft.),  a conspicuous  object  for  many  miles  round  and  well 
seen  from  San  Francisco  (28  M.  distant  as  the  crow  flies),  commands  a very 
extensive  '"'View,  including  the  valleys  of  the  Sacramento  to  the  H.  and 
the  San  Joaquin  to  the  S.,  the  Sierra  Nevada  from  Lassen’s  Peak  on  the  N. 
to  Mt.  Whitney  on  the  S.,  the  Coast  Range,  and  San  Francisco. 

Sonoma  {Union  Ilotel.^  $ I72),  a city  of  652  inhab.,  in  the  Sonoma  Valley., 
to  the  N.  of  Saa  Pablo  Bay,  is  interesting  as  one  of  the  chief  seats  of 
the  Californian  vine- culture.  The  wine  is  kept  in  tunnels  excavated  in 
the  hills  of  volcanic  sandstone.  Sonoma  is  reached  by  railway  (37  M.) 
from  Tiburon  (p.  552)  or  from  (15  M.)  Napa  Junction  (p.  552). 


Californian  Wine  (communicated).  — Wine -making  in  California 
dates  from  an  early  period,  the  European  vine  having  been  brought  here 
by  the  early  missionaries.  No  record  has  been  found  of  the  date  of  the 
event,  nor  can  the  species  introduced  be  identified  with  any  known  sort. 
It  was  probably  brought  from  one  of  the  Balearic  Isles,  the  first  mis- 
sionaries having  all  been  Catalans  from  Majorca,  or  it  was,  perhaps,  a 
seedling  raised  on  the  spot.  However  this  may  be,  it  had  attained  a 
wide  diffusion  before  the  transfer  of  the  country  to  the  United  States 
and  was  then  found  growing  at  almost  all  the  Missions.  Its  fruit  is 
abundant  and  quite  palatable  for  the  table,  but  makes  a strong  heady 
wine,  not  suited  to  the  demands  of  commerce,  though  popular  enough 
among  a pastoral  people,  whose  lives  were  spent  out  of  doors  and  largely 
in  the  saddle.  The  first  effort  of  the  American  immigration  to  improve 
the  native  wines  did  not  meet  with  a distinguished  success.  They  rea- 
soned, justly  enough,  that  California  had  within  her  borders  every  variety 
of  soil  and  a climate  decidedly  superior  to  that  of  any  part  of  Europe, 
because  free  from  the  unseasonable  storms  and  inopportune  frosts  which 
so  affect  the  viticulturists  of  the  old  world.  They  were,  however,  ignorant 
that  besides  soil  and  climate  it  was  indispensable,  in  order  to  make  a 
good  wine,  to  have  the  proper  sorts  of  grapes ; for  a fine  wine  can  no 
more  be  made  from  a vulgar  grape  than  the  proverbial  ‘silk  purse  from 
a sow’s  ear’.  In  fact  the  most  eminent  French  authority  on  the  subject 
lays^  down  the  rule  broadly  that  ^ihe  brand  of  the  wine  is  in  the  grape"*.  The 
distinctive  character  of  the  wine  of  Burgundy  is  derived  from  the  Pinot 
grape  5 and,  in  like  manner,  those  of  the  Rhine,  the  Moselle,  and  the  Medoc 
derive  their  essential  characteristics  from  the  particular  sorts  of  grapes 
cultivated  in  those  districts.  But  while  the  character  of  the  wine  depends 
on  the  grape  from  which  it  is  made,  its  quality,  within  the  range  of  that 
defined  character,  depends  on  soil,  situation,  exposure,  and  climate.  Ail 
this  is  now  recognized  as  elementary  truth,  but  was  little  known  even 
a couple  of  decades  ago. 

The  Germans  were  the  first  to  improve  the  native  wines.  Finding 
the  Mission  grape  did  not  make  a wine  suited  to  their  national  taste 


554  Route  95. 


SAN  FEANCISCO. 


they,  at  an  early  date,  imported  scions  of  the  favourite  stocks  of  their  own 
country  and  propagated  them.  As  a rule  the  Germans  make  white  wine, 
and  their  choice  of  sorts  was  limited  to  those  appropriate  for  such.  Hence 
the  white  wines  of  California  experienced  a marked  improvement  twenty 
years  ago,  while  her  red  wines  continued  to  he  still  made  of  the  mission 
grape.  The  late  Col.  Harasthy  introduced  many  years  since  the  Zinfandel 
and  some  other  European  vines  for  the  production  of  red  wine,  hut  they 
were  all  what  the  French  term  ^c^pages  d'*ahondance\  i.  e.  sorts  which  pro- 
duced large  crops.  With  the  grape,  however,  as  with  many  other  things, 
quantity  and  quality  go  in  inverse  proportion.  The  Zinfandel  grape  was 
extensively  propagated  and  became  popular,  for  it  was  a decided  improve- 
ment on  the  mission  sort,  had  the  advantage  of  being  an  early  and  abundant 
bearer,  and  made  a wine  which  matured  in  two  years.  To  the  immigrants 
from  the  South  of  Europe  — Frenchmen,  Spaniards,  Italians,  Greeks, 
Dalmatians,  etc.,  of  whom  such  large  numbers  are  to  be  found  on  the 
Pacific  Coast  — it  was  quite  a boon,  for  it  supplied  them  with  their 
accustomed  beverage,  at  a reasonable  price,  and  it  came  just  at  the  time 
when  the  devastations  of  the  phylloxera  in  France  rendered  it  almost  im- 
possible to  obtain  any  ordinary  claret  of  that  country  pure.  Within  the 
limits  of  the  domestic  demand,  too,  its  production  was  profitable,  by 
reason  of  its  bountiful  crops.  But  that  limit  was  rigidly  fixed.  The 
product  of  the  Zinfandel  grape  is  essentially  a peasant's  wine^  its  con- 
sumption cannot  be  indefinitely  extended  by  mere  cheapness.  No  converts 
were  ever  made  from  whiskey  or  beer  to  wine  by  such  a beverage,  and 
those  accustomed  to  the  use  of  wine  as  a luxury  — consumers  of  the 
better  sorts  of  French  wines  — found  it  decidedly  unpalatable.  Hence 
production  soon  trod  closely  on  the  heels  of  consumption,  and  ere  long 
outstripped  it.  For  some  years  there  has  been  no  profit  in  the  industry. 

Meantime  about  1880  and  1881  intelligent  Americans  had  their  attention 
directed  to  viticulture,  and  ere  long  learned,  as  the  Germans  had  learned 
before  them,  with  respect  to  white  wines,  that  to  make  red  wines,  fit  to 
compete  with  the  products  of  the  French  vineyards,  the  first  requirement 
was  to  have  the  proper  sorts  of  grapes.  They  accordingly  began  about 
the  date  mentioned  to  import  and  propagate  the  sorts  from  which  the 
great  wines  of  France  are  made,  and  from  that  period  dates  the  marked 
improvement  of  California  red  wines.  A characteristic  of  these  grapes, 
however,  is  the  largely  enhanced  expense  of  cultivating  them,  the  small- 
ness of  their  crops,  and  the  length  of  time  necessary  to  bring  their  wine  to 
maturity  and  render  it  fairly  potable;  so  that  the  cost  of  the  wine  to  the 
producer  is  enhanced  in  a degree  quite  proportioned  to  its  increased  value. 
The  wine-dealers  who  have  become  accustomed  to  the  cheap  blends  made 
on  a Zinfandel  base  are  averse  to  the  burden  of  carrying  stocks  for  four 
or  five  years  without  an  assured  return  for  enlarged  rents,  quadrupled 
stocks  of  cooperage,  and  quadrupled  care  in  handling.  From  this  cause 
those  in  quest  of  the  best  California  wines  — especially  red  wines  — 
have  to  seek  them  in  the  hands  of  the  producers.  This  state  of  affairs  has 
been  bettered  of  late  by  the  large  capitalization  of  companies,  able  to  bear 
the  expense  of  storage  and  blending,  and  willing  to  assure  to  the  growers 
a fixed  and  paying  price  for  their  products. 

The  principal  districts  of  the  state  in  which  the  vine  has  been  ex- 
tensively cultivated  are:  1.  The  plain  of  which  Los  Angeles  may  be  con- 
sidered the  centre  and  which  was  the  centre  of  population  in  Spanish  and 
Mexican  days;  2.  The  San  Joaquin  Valley;  3.  Napa  and  Sonoma  Counties.^ 
to  the  N.  of  San  Francisco  Bay;  4.  Santa  Clara  County^  with  the  adjoining 
Alameda  County  on  the  N.  and  the  protecting  mountains  of  Santa  Cruz 
on  the  S.  The  Livermore  Sauternes  (Alameda  Co.)  are  famous.  The  Los 
Angeles  and  San  Joaquin  Valleys,  from  their  great  heat,  are  best  able  to 
produce  wines  of  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  types.  From  the  proper 
sorts  of  grapes,  grown  in  these  districts,  are  made  fair  ports  and  sher- 
ries, while  brandy  and  very  fine  raisins  are  also  produced  there  in  con- 
siderable quantities.  Irrigation  is  needed  in  these  districts  for  the  growth 
of  these  grapes,  but  it  is  inimical  to  the  growth  of  other  species.  No  good 
dry  wines  are  produced  from  irrigated  soil.  In  Napa  and  Sonoma  the  vine 


SANTA  CRUZ  BIG  TREES. 


96.  Route,  555 


is  extensively  cultivated,  and  excellent  white  wines  of  the  Rhenish  type 
are  made,  as  well  as  excellent  white  Burgundies  of  the  Chablis  variety.  The 
out -put  of  the  Swiss  Colony  at  Asti  (Sonoma  County)  is  especially  noted 
among  dry  wines.  The  prevailing  use  of  the  Zinfandel  grape  has  hitherto 
been  hostile  to  the  production  of  red  wines  of  any  high  quality  in  this 
district-,  but  a change  may  be  brought  about  in  this  matter  by  the  ravages  of 
the  phylloxera,  as  the  destroyed  vines  have  very  generally  been  replaced  by 
‘resistant  stock’  of  a better  quality  (comp.  p.  557).  The  Santa  Cruz  mountains, 
and  especially  the  adjoining  foot-hills  in  Santa  Clara  County,  are  producing 
quite  a considerable  amount  of  excellent  wine  of  the  Bordeaux  type,  both 
red  and  white.  Bordeaux  stocks  have  been  imported  and  extensively  planted, 
and  the  local  situation  resembles  so  strikingly  that  of  the  Medoc  as  to 
suggest  a natural  correspondence  in  products.  In  fact  Santa  Clara  and 
the  S.  part  of  San  Mateo  counties  are  thrust  out  between  the  waters  of  the 
Ocean  and  those  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  just  as  the  Medoc  is  between 
the  Bay  of  Biscay  and  the  estuary  of  the  Garonne,  and  the  tempering 
effects  of  these  large  bodies  of  water  on  the  climate  and  vegetation  of  the 
intermediate  tongue  of  land  must  constitute  an  important  factor  in  the 
quality  of  the  viticultural  products. 

The  production  of  wine  and  brandy  .iin  the  State,  according  to  tbe 
reports  of  the  State  Viticultural  Commission,  rose  from  about  4,000,000gallons 
in  1877  to  22,000,000  gallons  of  dry  wines,  10,000,000  gallons  of  sweet  wines, 
and  5,700,000  gallons  of  brandy  in  1903. 


96.  From  San  Francisco  to  Santa  Cruz  via  the  Narrow- 
Gauge  Railway. 

Ferkt  to  (9  M.)  Alameda;  Railway  thence  to  (46  M.)  San  Josi  (fare 
$1.25^  return-fare.  Sat.  to  Sun.,  $1.75)  and  to  Santa  Cruz  ($2,80). 

This  excursion,  which  should  not  be  omitted  by  any  visitor  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, may  be  made  by  holders  of  through-tickets  between  Los  Angeles  and 
San  Francisco,  in  either  direction  (see  R.  97,  p.  556).  The  line  is  being 
broadened  to  the  standard  gauge. 

From  San  Francisco  to  (3  M.)  Alameda  Mole  and  (9  M.)  Alameda^ 
see  p.  552.  The  line  skirts  the  E.  shore  of  San  Francisco  Bay  (views  to 
the  right).  17  M.  San  Lorenzo;  24  M.  Alvarado;  29  M.  Newark.  At 
(38  M.)  Alviso  we  reach  the  smiling  Valley  of  Santa  Clara  (p.  557). 
44  M.  Santa  Clara  (p.  557).  — 46  M.  San  Jose,  see  p.  557. 

The  most  picturesque  part  of  the  line  soon  begins  now,  as  it 
ascends  over  the  Santa  Cruz  Mts.  (views).  55  M.  Los  Gatos  (‘The 
Cats’;  400  ft.),  a pretty  little  town  on  the  E.  slope  of  the  mountains, 
lies  in  the  warm  belt  and  grows  oranges  successfully.  Farther  on 
we  ascend  through  a canon  with  fine  rock-scenery  and  towering  red- 
wood trees.  58  M.  Alma  (560  ft.) ; 61  M.  Eva.  From  (62  M.)  Wright 
(900  ft.)  we  descend  rapidly,  through  similar  scenery,  towards  the 
coast.  73  M.  Felton  (275  ft).  — 74  M.  Big  Trees  (270  ft.),  the  station 
for  the  famous  *Big  Trees  of  Santa  Cruz. 

This  grove  (adm.  25  c.)  contains  about  a score  of  the  genuine  Redwood 
(Sequoia  sempervirens;  comp.  p.  501)  with  a diameter  of  10  ft.  and  upwards. 
The  largest  is  23  ft.  across  ^ one  of  the  finest,  named  the  Pioneer^  has  a 
circumference  of  70  ft.  A large  hollow  tree  is  shown  in  which  Gen.  Fre- 
mont camped  for  several  days  in  1847.  Another  stump  is  covered  with  an 
arbour,  which  holds  12-14  people. 

76  M.  Rincon  (300  ft.). 

80  M.  Santa  Cruz  {8t.  Oeorye,  in  tlie  town,  from  $ 3;  Pope  Ho., 


556  Route  96. 


MENLO  PARK. 


for  weekly  boarders;  Sea  Beach  Ho.^  from  $ 3,  at  the  beach,  1 M.  from 
the  town,  open  all  the  year),  a small  city  of  5659  inhab.,  originating 
in  the  Mission  de  la  Santa  Cruz  (1791),  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the 
N.  end  of  the  Bay  of  Monterey  (p.  559)  and  is  a favourite  summer 
and  winter  resort.  Its  attractions  include  an  excellent  bathing-beach 
(with  a casino,  band-stands,  fresh  water  lakes,  and  cold  and  hot  water 
plunge  baths),  fine  cliffs,  good  fishing,  caves  and  recesses  abounding 
in  sea-anemones,  beautiful  flower-gardens,  and  picturesque  sur- 
roundings. The  slow  freight-boats,  carrying  a few  passengers  up  and 
down  the  coast, put  inhere.  A grand  drive,  affording  splendid* Views 
of  forest  and  mountain  scenery,  may  be  made  to  the  (6  M.)  Big  Trees 
(p.  555),  returning  by  the  cliffs  along  the  shore.  A stage  runs  daily 
to  (38  M. ; 7 hrs.)  Pescadero  (see  below). 

From  Santa  Cruz  to  Fajaro,  see  p.  559. 

97.  From  San  Francisco  to  Los  Angeles, 

a.  Vi&  Coast  Line. 

476  M.  Southern  Pacific  Railway  in  143/4  brs.  (fare  $15^  sleeper  $ 2.50). 
Unlimited  tickets  (S  16.75)  are  also  available  by  the  narrow-gauge  railway 
allowing  a stoppage  at  Santa  Cruz  (see  above),  whence  we  rejoin  the  main 
coast-line  at  Pajaro  (p.  559).  For  stop-over  at  the  Del  Monte  Hotel,  see  p.  559. 

San  Francisco^  see  p.  543.  The  train  starts  from  the  station  at 
the  corner  of  3rd  and  Townsend  Sts.  (p.  543),  stops  again  at  the  corner 
of  26th  and  Valencia  Sts.,  and  soon  leaves  the  city  behind.  At  (7  M.) 
Ocean  View  (290  ft.)  we  see  the  Pacific  Ocean  to  the  right.  About 

3 M.  beyond  (9  M.)  Colma^  a small  wayside  station,  San  Francisco 
Bay^  which  we  skirt  for  30  M. , comes  into  view  on  the  left.  12  M. 
Baden, ^ 15  M.  San  Bruno;  17  M.  Millbrae^  with  the  large  country 
house  of  Mr.  D.  0.  Mills  (right).  — 22  M.  San  Mateo  (Mateo,  from 
$2'/2;  Union,  from  $ 2),  a pleasant  little  town,  embosomed  in  live- 
oaks,  is  the  starting-point  of  a daily  stage-line  to  (33  M.)  Pescadero 
(through-fare  $3.10;  starting  at  10  a.m.  and  reaching  Pescadero  at 

4 p.m.). 

The  road  to  Pescadero  crosses  the  Sierra  Morena  (views),  passing  the 
interesting  old  village  of  Spanishtown.  The  *Cliffs  at  Gordori's  Landing 
tower  250  ft.,  above  the  sea,  recalling  the  Shakspeare  Cliff  at  Dover.  — 
Pescadero  {Swanton  Ho.,,  Pescadero  Ho.,,  $ ir/2-2),  a small  village  on  the  Pa- 
cific coast,  at  the  mouth  of  Pescadero  Valley,  is  famous  for  its  Pebble  Beach, 
on  which  agates,  opals,  jaspers,  and  other  similar  stones  are  found. 

26  M.  Belmont.  — 29  M.  Redwood  (Capitol , $ 2) , so  named 
from  the  trees  (see  p.  555)  in  the  timber  of  which  it  does  its  prin- 
cipal trade.  A good  road  runs  hence  across  the  Sierra  Morena  to 
San  Gregorio,  traversing  a splendid  redwood  forest  (* Views).  There 
is  also  a stage  from  Redwood  daily,  at  10.15  a.m.  to  (31  M.)  Pesca- 
dero (see  above),  arriving  at  5p.m.  (through-fare  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, $ 3.05). 

33  M.  Menlo  Park  {Menlo  Park  Hotel,  Oak  Grove  Villa,  from 
$172)  is  a favourite  residence  of  the  wealthy  merchants  of  San 


SAN  JOSE. 


97.  Route.  557 


Francisco  and  contains  many  fine  houses,  surrounded  by  beautifully 
laid  out  grounds  and  noble  trees.  Beyond  Menlo  Park  the  red  roofs 
of  the  Stanford  University  (see  below)  may  be  seen  to  the  right.  — 
34  M.  Palo  Alto  (Palo  Alto  Hotel,  $ 2),  taking  its  name  (‘tall  tree’) 
from  a great  redwood  to  the  left  of  the  railway,  is  the  nearest  station 
to  the  (1  M.)  University. 

-Leland  Stanford  Jr.  University,  founded  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Leland  Stan- 

upwards 

I ^rVoA  (6,000,000/.),  was  opened  m 1891  and  has  now  a staff  of 
about  IdO  instructors  and  an  attendance  of  1400  students,  of  whom  many 
are  womem  It  is  finely  situated  on  the  former  Palo  Alto  stock-farm  (a 
tract  of  8400  acres,  deeded  to  the  University),  on  a plain  near  the  foot  of 
the  coast  mountains.  The  buildings  were  mainly  designed  by  JI.  H.  Richard- 
son^ who  took  the  motif  of  their  architecture  from  the  cloisters  of  the 
San  Antonio  Mission  The  material  is  buff,  rough-faced  sandstone,  sur- 
mounted by  red-tiled  roofs,  producing  brilliant  effects  of  colour  in  con- 
junction with  the  live-oak,  white  oak,  and  eucalyptus  trees  outside 
the  tropical  plants  in  the  quadrangle,  and  the  blue  sky  overhead  The 
a low  quadrangle,  enclosing  a court  586  ft.  long  and 
24 b It.  wide,  with  a beautiful  colonnade  on  the  inner  side;  an  outer,  two- 
stomed  quac^angle,  with  cloisters  on  the  outside;  a memorial  arch;  a chapel 
with  a Richardsonesque  tower;  various  dormitories;  an  art  museum;  a 
mechanical  department;  and  a little  village  of  professors’  houses.  — Near 
the  University  were  the  celebrated  -Palo  Alto  Stables  and  Paddocks  (Mr.Stan- 
ford  s),  which  are  now  closed,  all  the  stock  having  been  sold.  Among  the 
most  famous  horses  bred  at  this  stud  were  SuHol  (who  trotted  a mile  in 
2 mm.  71/2  sec.),  and  whose  grave  is  shown,  Palo  Alto  (2.83/4),  Arion,  Elec- 
Honeer,  Electricity,  and  Advertiser.  ’ ’ 


40  M.  Mountain  View  is  the  nearest  station  to  (6  M.)  Cupertino 
the  vineyard  of  Mr.  John  T.  Doyle,  where  one  of  the  finest  red  wines 
in  California  is  produced  ( Las  Palmas).  This  vineyard  has  of  late 
years  suffered  greatly,  as  have  many  in  this  valley,  from  the  phylloxera, 
but  the  replanting  of  ‘resistant  stock’  has  redeemed  it.  The  railway 
now  follows  the  *8anta  Clara  Valley,  one  of  the  fairest  and  most 
fertile  valleys  in  California,  sheltered  on  either  hand  by  mountains. 
Large  quantities  of  fruit  (esp.  grapes,  prunes,  and  peaches)  and 
wheat  are  grown  here.  At  Agnews,  as  we  approach  Santa  Clara,  a 
large  Insane  Asylum  is  seen  to  the  left. 

48  M Santa  Clara  (70 ft.;  Santa  Clara,  $ II/2),  a pretty  little 
town  with  obOOinhab.,  is  the  seat  of  Santa  Clara  College,  a large 
institution  founded  hy  the  Jesuits  in  1851  (160-200  students') 
Its  church,  belonging  to  the  old  mission  of  1777,  is  one  of  the  best 
preserved  in  the  state.  The  town  has  become  an  Important  ship- 
ping centre  for  frnit.  Santa  Clara  is  connected  with  (31/2  M.)  San 
Jose  (see  below)  by  the  * Alameda,  a fine  avenue  traversed  by  an 
electric  tramway  (fare  10  c.).  It  is  well  worth  while,  especially  in 
the  rose  season,  to  leave  the  train  at  Santa  Clara  and  drive  (carr  or 
tramway)  through  the  Alameda  to  San  Jose7 

51  M.  San  Jose  (‘Hosay’;  90  ft.;  *JIotel  Vendome,  with  pleasant 
grounds  and  snn-parlonr,  $ 3-4;  New  St.  James,  from  $ 3,  E.  from 
$ 1),  a beautiful  city  of  21,600  inhab.,  is  of  importance  as  the  chief 
place  in  the  fruitful  Santa  Clara  valley  (see  above)  and  is  also  frg. 


558  Route  97. 


SAN  JOSE. 


From  San  Francisco 


quented  on  account  of  its  delightful  climate.  The  most  conspicuous 
building  is  the  Court  House,  the  dome  of  which  affords  an  extensive 
*View,  including  the  Calaveras  Mts.  (with  Mt.  Hamilton)  to  the  E., 
the  Santa  Cruz  Mts.  to  the  S.,  the  Contra  Costa  Mts.  to  the  W.,  and 
San  Francisco  Bay  to  the  N.  The  City  Hall  and  Fost  Office  are  large 
buildings.  San  Jose  also  contains  several  good  schools  and  colleges. 

San  Jose  is  tlie  starting-point  for  (26  M.)  Lick  Observatory.,  on  Mt.  Ham- 
ilton. Stages  start  every  morning  (except  Sun.)  and  reach  the  Observatory 
about  1.30  p.m..  halting  1 hr.,  and  regaining  San  Jose  at  6 p.m.  (return 
fare  $ 4,  from  San  Francisco  $ 6.50).  On  Sat.,  when  visitors  are  allowed 
to  look  through  the  great  telescope  between  7 and  10  p.m.,  the  stage 
starts  at  about  1 p.m.  and  returns  about  midnight  (return-fare  $ 5,  from 
San  Francisco  $ 7.50).  Parties  of  four  or  more  should  hire  a private 
carriage.  The  road,  though  uphill  nearly  all  the  way,  is  so  well  made 
and  easily  graded  that  a fair  rate  of  speed  is  maintained,  while  the 
beautiful  and  ever-varying  views  prevent  weariness.  Innumerable  wild- 
flowers  line  the  way,  while  the  manzanita,  live-oaks,  and  other  trees 
are  also  interesting.  The  Observatory  is  in  sight  most  of^  the  time.  We 
cross  two  intervening  ridges.  About  7 M.  from  San  Jose  we  pass  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Penitencia  Canon  (so  called  because  the  monks  of  the 
San  Jose  Mission  kept  their  retreats  here),  which  has  been  reserved  as  a 
city-park,  and  contains  Alum  Rock  and  several  mineral  springs  (hotel; 
electric  car  from  San  Jose).  On  crossing  the  second  of  the  intervening 
ridges,  we  descend  into  Smith  Creek  (2145  ft.),  where  a halt  is  generally 
made  for  dinner  (50  c.)  at  the  Santa  Ysdbel  Hotel  (good  food  and  beds). 
The  hotel  lies  at  the  base  of  Mt.  Hamilton,  2 M.  from  the  Observatory 
in  a direct  line  (footpath),  but  7 M.  by  the  road,  which  is  said  to  make 
365  bends.  Visitors  sometimes  spend  Sat.  night  here  and  return  to  San 
Jose  on  Sun.  morning.  — The  "Lick  Observatory,  founded  with  a legacy 
of  $700,000  (140,000  i.)  left  by  Mr.  James  Lick  (1793-1876)  of  San  Francisco 
(comp.  p.  547),  stands  on  the  summit  of  Mt.  Hamilton  (4444  ft.),  and  is  in 
point  of  situation,  equipment,  and  achievement  one  of  the  leading  obser- 
vatories of  the  world.  It  forms  the  astronomical  department  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  California  (p.  502).  The  Great  Telescope  is  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  powerful  refracting  telescopes  in  existence;  its  object-glass,  36 inches 
in  diameter,  was  made  by  Alvan  Clark  of  Cambridge  (p.  115).  Mr.  Lick  is 
buried  in  the  foundation-pier  of  the  telescope.  Visitors  are  received  courte- 
ously at  the  Observatory  and  shown  all  the  objects  of  interest  (10-4,  Sat.  7-10 
in  the  evening;  no  admission  on  Sun.),  but  there  is  no  inn  or  restaurant 
nearer  than  Smith  Creek.  The  •"Wiew  from  the  Observatory  is  very  ex- 
tensive, sometimes  including  wonderful  effects  of  cloud  and  mist.  It  em- 
braces, on  a clear  day,  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  Pacific  Ocean,  Santa  Clara 
Valley,  Angel  Island  (p.  551),  Mt.  San  Bruno  (p.  551),  and  Mt.  Tamalpais 
(p.  551).  Loma  Prieta  (see  p.  559)  is  conspicuous  to  the  S.  Comp.  ‘Hand- 
book of  the  Lick  Observatory’,  by  E.  S.  Holden. 

About  12  M.  to  the  S.  of  San  Jose,  in  a spur  of  the  coast-range,  are 
the  interesting  New  Almaden  Quicksilver  Mines.^  which  may  be  reached  by 
railway  (fare  35  c ).  — An  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  Pacific  Congress 
Springs  (700  ft.),  10  M.  to  the  S.W  , which  are  beneficial  in  rheumatism.  The 
return  may  be  made  along  the  foot-hills  by  way  of  (6  M.)  Los  Gatos  (p.  555). 

San  Jose  is  also  a station  on  and  proceed  the  narrow-gauge  railway 
Santa  Cruz  (comp.  p.  555). 

Beyond  San  Jose  the  Lick  Observatory  (see  above),  on  the  top 
of  Mt.  Hamilton.,  is  seen  to  tbe  left.  56  M.  Hillsdale  (150  ft.); 
69  M.  Madrone  (340  ft.),  6 M.  to  tbe  W.  of  tbe  Madrone  Springs.  — 
81  M.  Gilroy  (190ft. ; South ern Pacific  Hotel,  $2),  a busy  little  city  of 
1820  inbab.,  13  M.  to  tbe  W.  of  tbe  frequented  Gilroy  Hot  Springs 
(Hotel,  $21/2;  stage  daily  in  21/2  brs.).  From  Gilroy  a brancb-line 


to  Los  Angeles » 


MONTEREY. 


97.  Route.  559 


leads  to  the  S.  to  (95  M.)  Hollister  and  (101  M.)  Tres  Pinos^  a centre 
of  the  grain  and  cattle  trade.  — Our  line  bends  to  the  W.  and  runs 
towards  the  coast.  100  M.  Pajaro  (‘Paharo’},  the  junction  of  the  line 
to  Santa  Cruz. 

From  Pajaro  to  Santa  Cruz,  21  M.,  railway  in  1 iir.  — This  line  runs 
to  the  N.W.,  with  the  pointed  Loma  Frieta  (‘Black  Mt.  5 3790  ft.),  one  of 
the  loftiest  of  the  Santa  Cruz  Mts.,  rising  to  the  right.  13  M.  Aptos  and 
(16  M.)  Gapitola  are  two  resorts  on  Monterey  Bay.  20  M.  Santa  Cruz  Beach. 
— 21  M.  Santa  Cruz,  see  p.  555. 

Beyond  Pajaro  our  line  runs  to  the  S.W.  through  a valley  shut  in 
by  ravined  hills  to  (110  M.)  Castroville,  the  junction  of  the  branch- 
line to  Monterey.,  the  Hotel  del  Monte.,  and  Pacific  Grove. 

From  Castroville  to  Monterey  and  Pacific  Grove,  17  M.,  railway 
in  3/4  hr.  Through  unlimited  tickets  between  San  Francisco  and  Los  Angeles 
(see  p.  556)  allow  a stop-over  at  Del  Monte  on  payment  of  the  return-fare 
(90  c.)  between  Castroville  and  Del  Monte.  A special  ticket  (price  $22) 
covers  the  journey  from  San  Francisco  to  Los  Angeles,  the  detour  to  Del 
Monte,  and  two  days  board  at  the  hotel  . Week-end  return-tickets  (Sat.  to 
Mon.)  from  San  Francisco  to  Del  Monte,  including  hotel  board,  are  also 
sold  for  $10. 

This  branch-line  leaves  the  orchards  and  meadows  through  which  we 
have  been  journeying,  runs-  between  the  sand-dunes  and  chaparral  that 
fringe  the  shore  of  Monterey  Bay , and  crosses  the  Salinas  River  near  its 
mouth.  14  M.  Del  Monte,  see  below;  15  M.  Monterey,  see  below.  — 17  M. 
Pacific  Grove  [Hotel  El  Garmelo,  from  $ 2,  under  the  same  management  as 
the  Del  Monte),  a sSaside  resort  also  connected  with  Monterey  ^and  Del 
Monte  by  an  electric  tramway  skirting  the  coast. 

Monterey  [Monterey  Hotel,  R.  from  $1),  situated  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
bay  of  that  name,  85  M.  from  San  Francisco  by  sea,  contains  1748  inhab., 
largely  of  Spanish  blood,  and  is  one  of  the  quaintest  of  Californian  towns 
its  atmosphere  still  drowsy  with  the  Spanish-Mexican  spirit  of  ^pocotiempo’'] 
Its  site  was  visited  by  the  Spaniards  in  1602,  but  it  was  not  until  1770 
^that  the  Mission  de  San  Carlos  de  Monterey  was  founded  on  this  spot. 
Monterey  was  the  capital  of  California  before  and  for  a while  after  its  con- 
quest by  the  Americans  in  1846,  but  with  the  removal  of  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment went  the  commercial  importance  and  life  of  the  little  town,  which 
is  now  one  of  the  quietest  places  in  the  State.  It  is,  however,  extensively 
visited  on  account  of  its  balmy  climate  (warm  in  winter  and  cool  in  sum- 
mer; mean  temp,  of  Jan.  ca.  50®,  of  June,  July,  and  Aug.  60-64®),  its 
beautiful  sandy  beach,  and  its  charming  surroundings.  Many  of  its  build- 
ings are  of  adobe.  Some  remains  of  the  old  Spanish  fort  still  remain 
while  the  Rondan  Catholic  Church  occupies  the  site  of  the  Mission  which 
was  removed  to  Carmelo  Valley  in  1771  (see  p.  560).  The  historic’  Custom 
House  of  Spanish  and  early  American  rule  is  well  preserved.  The  house 
in  which  Robert  Louis  Stevenson  lived  in  1878  is  pointed  out.  Colton  Hall 
was  the  first  capitol  of  California. 

The  -Hotel  del  Monte  (‘Hotel  of  the  Forest) , 1/3  M.  from  the  above 
mentioned  station  and  one  of  the  most  comfortable,  best-kept,  and  most 
attractive  hotels  in  America,  lies  in  the  midst  of  exquisite  -Grounds, 
in  some  ways  recalling  the  fine  country  parks  of  England,  though,  of 
course,  the  vegetation  is  very  different.  Among  the  noble  old  trees  which 
surround  it  are  innumerable  live-oaks  and  Monterey  pines  and  cypresses, 
while  the  '^Gardens  offer  a continual  feast  of  colour.  One  section  of  the 
gardens,  known  as  ‘Arizona’,  is  devoted  to  cacti  of  all  kinds,  and  in 
another  part  of  the  grounds  is  a Maze  of  cypress  hedges.  A little  to  the  N. 
of  the  hotel  is  the  pretty  little  boating  lake  named  the  Laguna  del  Rey, 
while  on  the  beach,  1/2  M.  from  the  hotel,  is  a large  Bathing  House,  in- 
cluding four  swimming-basins  and  hot  water  tanks.  Nearly  opposite  the 
hotel  is  the  Hotel  del  Monte  Club  House,  and  near  by  are  Golf  Links  and 
Polo  Grounds. 


560  Routt  97. 


PASO  ROBLES.  From  San  Francisco 


The  chief  excursion  from  the  hotel  is  the  so-called  ’^’’■‘Seventeen  Mile 
Drive,  leading  round  the  peninsula  on  which  Monterey  lies.  As  we  leave 
the  town,  going  towards  the  W.,  we  see,  on  the  hill  to  the  left,  a Statue 
of  Padre  Juniper o Serra^  the  founder  of  the  Mission,  erected  in  1891.  To 
the  right  is  the  Bay  of  Monterey^  with  its  white  sandy  beach.  On  the  left 
is  a still  unfinished  shaft,  its  stones  contributed  by  the  counties  and  societies 
of  California,  to  be  surmounted  by  a statue  of  Commodore  Sloat,  who  first 
raised  the  American  flag  on  the  Pacific  coast,  in  1846.  We  pass  Ord  Barracks^ 
a U.  S.  army  post  and  reservation  to  the  left;  on  the  beach  beyond  are 
the  low  gray  huts  of  Chinese  and  Japanese  fishermen.  About  1 M.  beyond 
Pacific  Orove  (p.  559)  we  pass  near  the  lighthouse  on  Point  Pinos^  the 
S.  headland  of  the  Bay  of  Monterey,  and  turn  to  the  left.  The  next  part 
of  the  road  lies  mainly  through  trees,  passing  not  far  from  the  little  Lake 
Majella.  To  the  right  is  the  Moss  Beach  (fine  algfe,  or  sea-mosses).  Farther 
on  we  have  a fine  unimpeded  view  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  about  7 M. 
from  Monterey  reach  the  "Seal  Rocks^  where  we  enjoy  a spectacle  similar 
to  that  mentioned  at  p.  550.  Another  mile  brings  us  to  "Cypress  Pointy  with 
its  flat,  umbrella-like  Monterey  cypresses  ( Gupressus  macrocarpa)^  a sing- 
ular, crooked,  mis-shapen  tree  indigenous  to  this  locality.  Beyond  Cypress 
Point  the  road  runs  to  the  E.,  passing  Pebble  Beach^  where  agates,  etc., 
may  be  picked  up;  Chinese  Cove.,  with  a small  Chinese  settlement;  the 
nucleus  of  a small  Zoological  Garden  (grizzly  bear,  buffaloes,  etc.);  and 
the  sandy  Pescadero  Beach.  The  road  then  turns  to  the  left  (N.),  and  a 
short  digression  may  be  made  to  the  right,  to  visit  the  old  Carraelo  Mission, 
the  burial-place  of  Junipero  Serra,  where  the  original  church  has  been 
supplied  with  a new  roof.  The  remainder  of  the  drive  (5  M.)  runs 
through  woods. 

A favourite  outing  is  to  drive  (2V2-3  hrs.)  to  Law^elles  Ranch,  to  the  S., 
a comfortable  annex  of  the  Del  Monte,  and  to  stay  there  for  a day  or  two 
(tariff  as  at  the  Del  Monte). 

Good  trout  fishing  is  obtained  in  the  Carmelo  River.  Fishing,  also,  in 
the  bay,  where  ‘glass-bottom’  boats  may  be  hired,  with  a Japanese  diver. 
Deer  and  quail  shooting  may  be  enjoyed  in  the  adjacent  woods  and 
mountains. 

From  Castro ville  the  main  line  runs  to  the  S.E.  along  the  righf 
bank  of  the  Salinas  river,  through  the  wide,  wooded  valley  of  that 
name.  — 118  M.  Salinas  (Barden  Ho.,  Abbott  Ho.),  a place  with 
nearly  5000  inhab.  Here  are  the  huge  oil-supply  tanks  of  the  S.  P.  Ry. 
A stage  runs  from  Salinas  to  (40  M.)  Tassajara  Hot  Springs  (1500  ft.), 
over  an  unusually  attractive  road.  — At  (144  M.)  Soledade  are  the 
scanty  ruins  of  a mission  founded  in  1791.  A stage  runs  from  here 
to  (8  M.)  Par  also  Springs  (1000  ft.),  in  the  Santa  Lucia  Mountains. 
— 164  M.  King's  City  is  the  point  for  the  carriage- drive  to  (26  M.) 
San  Antonio  Mission,  the  beautifully  situated  ruins  of  one  of  the 
most  famous  of  California  Missions.  Its  preservation  is  now  the  care 
of  the  ‘Landmark  Club’  (p.  571).  — At  (208  M.)  San  Miguel  the 
remains  of  the  mission,  founded  in  1797,  are  visible  from  the  train.  — 
217  M.  Paso  Robles  (720  ft. ; El  Paso  de  Bohles  Hotel,  from  $2^/2; 
Alexander,  $ lt/2-2)  is  situated  in  a vast  natural  park  of  live-oak, 
from  which  its  name  '‘El  Paso  de  Robles  (‘Pass  of  the  Oaks’)  is 
derived.  It  is  frequented  for  its  hot  sulphur  springs  (95-110®  Fahr.) 
and  its  mud  baths  (140®  Fahr.),  which  are  efficacious  in  rheuma- 
tism, gout,  and  skin  diseases.  Among  the  many  pleasant  drives 
from  Paso  Robles  is  that  to  (6  M.)  Santa  Ysabel  Hot  Springs  in 
the  hills  to  the  E.  — From  Paso  Robles  the  train  climbs  gradually 


to  Los  Angeles,  SAN  LUIS  OBISPO. 


97.  Route.  561 


throTigli  a pass  in  the  Santa  Lucia  Mountains^  leaving  the  fertile  and 
wooded  Salinas  Yalley.  Beyond  (236  M.)  Santa  Margarita  (996  ft.), 
at  the  head  of  the  Salinas  River , the  line  ascends  in  windings  to  its 
highest  point  (1340  ft.),  4 M.  farther  on.  We  then  pass  through 
seven  tunnels  and  descend  hy  a superb  curve  to  (253  M.)  San  Luis 
Obispo  it.  \ Hotel  Ramona,  $31/2;  French^  $^V2))  a pleasant 
little  town  of  about  3000  inhab.,  situated  in  a great  grazing  valley, 
broken  by  cone-shaped  foot-hills.  The  mission,  founded  in  1772 
and  now  disfigured  by  a poor  modern  steeple,  has  given  its  name  to 
the  town,  once  the  centre  of  Spanish  wealth  in  this  valley.  To  the 
N.  of  the  town  is  the  State  Polytechnic  School. 

From  San  Luis  Obispo  a short  branch-line  runs  io  (10  M.)  Fort  Harford^ 
on  the  coast,  whence  regular  slow-freight  steamers,  carrying  a few  passengers 
run  N.  to  San  Francisco  and  S.  to  San  Diego. 

Another  branch-line  runs  inland  from  San  Luis  Obispo  to  (32  M.)  Santa 
Maria.^  (54  M.)  Los  Alamos.,  and  (66  M.)  Los  Olivos^  whence  a stage  runs  to 
Gaviota  (see  below). 

Our  train  now  runs  through  a flat  grazing  valley,  with  occasional 
glimpses  of  the  sea  between  the  sand-dunes.  277  M.  Guodaluye.,  the 
northernmost  town  in  the  huge  Santa  Barbara  County,  which  the 
train  takes  3 hrs.  to  traverse.  Its  scenery  is  very  picturesque,  and  its 
coast,  facing  due  S. , is  protected  by  a background  of  mighty  moun- 
tains and  recalls  the  Riviera.  The  products  of  the  district  include 
hay,  beans,  walnuts,  lemons,  beet-sugar,  olives,  olive-oil,  petroleum, 
poultry,  and  pigeons.  — Beyond  Guadalupe  we  cross  the  long  narrow 
Santa  Maria  Valley , with  the  San  Rafael  Sierra  to  the  E.  From 
(304  M.)  ^wr/’ onwards  the  sea  is  almost  continuously  in  sight  to  the 
right  for  over  100  M.  farther  south. 

From  Surf  a brancb-line  runs  to  (9  M.)  Lompoc.,  a thriving  oil-centre. 

We  pass  Point  Concepcion,  with  its  lighthouse,  and  descend 
gradually  through  a rolling  grazing  land  between  the  sea  and  the 
Santa  Ynez  Mts.  to  (34  M.)  Oaviota,  whence  a stage  runs  daily 
(fare  $ 2)  to  (24  M.)  Los  Olivos  (see  above) , across  the  Santa  Ynez 
Mts.,  affording  a most  delightful  drive.  At  (356  M.)  Naples,  we  get  a 
good  view  of  the  four  long  islands  forming  a chain  bounding  and 
protecting  Santa  Barbara  channel.  Our  line  turns  inland  through 
orchards  of  olives  and  other  fruit 

370  M.  Sa>iita<  Barbara.  {Potter,  a large  hotel  on  the  shore,  terms 
by  arrangement;  Arlington,  $ 3-5 ; Miramar,  with  cottages,  from  $ 15 
a week),  a city  of  6587  inhab.,  the  ‘American  Mentone’,  is  charmingly 
situated  on  the  coast-plain,  at  the  base  of  the  foot-hills,  with  the 
Santa  Ynez  Mts.,  a little  farther  off,  forming  a fine  screen  against 
the  cold  N.  and  W.  winds.  It  has  a well-deserved  reputation  as  one 
of  the  most  attractive  winter-resorts  in  California,  due  to  its  mild,  dry, 
and  equable  climate  (mean  temp.,  winter  50-55®,  summer  65-70®)] 
the  beauty  of  its  surroundings,  the  luxuriance  of  its  roses  and  other 
flowers,  the  excellent  bathing-beach  (with  a large  bathing-pavilion), 
and  its  pleasant  society.  The  main  street,  2 M.  long,  is  paved  with 

Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  QB 


562  Route  97, 


SANTA  BARBARA.  From  San  Francisco 


asphalt  and  lined  with  substantial  business  blocks.  Behind  these,  in 
side-streets,  are  traces  of  the  Mexican  and  Spanish  days,  notably  the 
low  and  wide  adobe  house,  with  verandahs  around  its  court-yard,  of 
Governor  de  la  Guerra.  Most  of  the  private  houses  are  surrounded  by 
delightful  gardens.  The  chief  lion  of  the  place  is  the  old  ^Mission, 
founded  by  Padre  Junipero  Serra  (p.  560)  in  1786.  It  lies  on  a hill 
3/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  town,  and  may  be  reached  by  following  the 
electric  tramway  which  diverges  to  the  right  from  Main  St.  at  the 
Arlington  Hotel.  The  end  of  the  tramway-line  is  at  the  Mission, 
with  its  colonnaded  front,  red  roof,  and  two-towered  church. 

Visitors  are  admitted  8-5  daily  (women  are  not  admitted  to  the  inner 
garden^  small  fee  expected).  The  points  shown  include  the  plain  white- 
washed church  (containing  a few  paintings),  refectory,  dormitory,  and  garden. 
About  a dozen  of  the  old  Franciscan  monks  still  remain.  The  Mission 
commands  a splendid  *View  (best  from  the  church-tower)  of  Santa  Barbara 
and  the  Pacific,  with  the  islands  in  the  background.  On  the  wall  about 
100yds.  behind  the  Mission  is  a sun-dial  with  the  inscription:  ‘Lux  dei 
vitse  viam  monstiat  sed  umbra  horam  atque  fldem  docet’. 

After  visiting  the  Mission  we  may  ascend  the  picturesque  Mission  Canon 
behind  it,  crossing  the  ancient  stone  bridge  and  turning  to  the  left  (sign- 
post ‘Up  the  Canon’).  The  canon  contains  some  pretty  waterfalls.  Near 
its  entrance,  we  get  a glimpse  of  Miradero^  an  excellent  sanitarium  for 
nervous  invalids. 

To  the  right,  short  of  the  bridge,  is  the  steep  approach  to  the  (16  M.) 
Mountain  Drive.  The  drive,  which  must  be  entered  at  this  end,  commands 
beautiful  views  and  comes  out  near  the  foot  of  Hot  Springs  Ave.,  whence 
we  may  return  via  Montecito.,  situated  in  a pretty  valley,  4 M.  to  the  E.  of 
Santa  Barbara,  with  numerous  beautiful  gardens.  The  *Drive  along  this 
slope  between  these  gardens  is  well  worth  making. 

On  a hill  about  1 M.  to  the  E.  of  Montecito  (!=ign-boards),  at  the  head 
of  Hot  Springs  Avenue,  are  the  Hot  Springs  (1400  ft.  \ temp.  114-118°),  whence 
a climb  of  V4  hr.  brings  us  to  Point  Look  Out.,  commanding  a fine  view.  — 
The  San  Ysidro  Ranch , about  1 M.  beyond  Montecito  , has  good  accommo- 
dation for  tourists  and  fine  orange  and  lemon  groves. 

On  the  W.  side  of  Santa  Barbara  is  the  fine  (12  M.)  Cliff  Drive.  The 
road  runs  near  the  W.  shore,  passing  around  i\iQ  Dihhlee Mansion  and  grounds, 
situated  on  a height  just  outside  the  town  ("View),  continues  as  far  as  the 
lighthouse,  and  returns  by  way  of  Hope  Ranch  and  Lake. 

Another  drive  (3  4hrs.),  perhaps  the  finest  of  all,  leaves  Santa  Barbara 
on  the  N.W.  for  the  *'San  Marco  Pass  (2225  ft.)  leading  to  the  Santa  Ynez 
Valley,  with  two  old  missions.  The  road  u inds  round  the  precipitous  sides 
of  the  hills,  which  are  clad  with  beautiful  shrubs,  and  beyond  the  summit 
of  the  pass  descends  rapidly  amidst  woods.  Good  luncheon  is  obtainable 
at  Cold  Springs  Mountain  Resort  (well  spoken  of).  — La  Piedra  Pintada 
(‘painted  rock’),  an  interesting  relic  of  aboriginal  art,  is  on  the  Santa  Ynez 
Mts.,  near  the  head  of  Montecito  Valley. 

Among  other  noted  points  near  Santa  Barbara  are  Sycamore  Canon{2  M.), 
BartletVs  Canon  (10  M.),  Glen  Annie  (13  M.),  the  Cathedral  Oaks  (6  M.),  Goleia 
(8M.),  Ortega  Hill  (5  M.),  Hollister's  Ranch  (12  M.),  with  a beautiful  avenue 
of  date-palms,  and  Cooper^s  Ranch  (15  M.),  with  a large  olive-grove.  Near 
the  town  we  may  notice- the  Chinese  vegetable  gardens,  the  fields  of  Pampas 
grass  (cultivated  for  its  plumes),  and  the  groves  of  walnut.  Flowers  grow 
here  most  luxuriantly:  at  a flower-show  in  Santa  Barbara  160  varieties  of 
roses  were  exhibited,  all  cut  from  one  garden  on  the  same  morning.  — The 
curious  nest  of  the  Trapdoor  Spider  is  often  found  near  Santa  Barbara.  — 
Travellers  on  the  mountains  should  be  careful  to  avoid  the  poison  oak 
shrub,  contact  with  which  is  apt  to  be  troublesome. 

Ocean  Yachts  make  excursions,  on  a usually  perfectly  calm  sea,  to 
various  points  on  the  coast  and  to  the  islands  of  Santa  Cruz  (26  M.)  and 


to  Los  Angeles. 


VENTURA. 


97.  Route.  563 


Santa  Rosa  (31  M.).  The  former  is  the  larger  of  the  two  and  is  inhabited 
by  a few  farmers.  The  beautiful  Abalone  shells  are  found  in  great  abun- 
dance on  these  islands.  — In  the  bed  of  the  ocean,  about  10  M.  to  the  N.W. 
of  Santa  Barbara  and  IV2  M.  from  shore,  is  a huge  spring  of  petroleum,  the 
oil  from  which  may  be  seen  floating  on  the  surface  in  calm  weather  one 
of  many  similar  sub-marine  oil  wells  on  this  coast.  ’ 

P’y  (280  m.)  San  Francisco 

(p.  543),  San  Diego  (p.  572),  San  Pedro  (p.  568),  etc. 

Beyond  Santa  Barbara  our  line  passes  through  Montecito  (p.  562) 
to  (378  M.)  Siimmerland^  where  the  presence  of  sub-marine  oil-wells 
is  evident.  At  (382  M.)  Carpinterix,  and  beyond,  we  run  close  to  the 
sea,  the  mountains  at  places  barely  leaving  room  for  the  tracks  (views 
to  the  right). 

400  M.  Ventura,  the  railroad  name  for  San  Buenaventura  (45  ft.  • 
Ease,  from  $2;  Anacapa,  from  $ a city  of  2460  inhab.,  pleas- 
antly  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  valley  of  the  Ventura^  carries  on 
a large  trade  in  lima  beans  (a  staple  food  along  the  coast)  and  other 
vegetables,  fruits,  nuts,  sugar-beets,  grain  and  petroleum  oil.  It  is 
also  a health-resort.  Its  electric  car  lines  run  in  many  directions 
inland.  The  well-preserved  chapel  of  the  Spanish  Mission  (founded 
1782)  dates  from  1809  and  is  still  in  use. 

A branch-line  runs  hence  to  the  N.  to  (15  M.)  Nordhoff  (Hotel  Oiai, 
from  a mountain  village  in  the  beautiful  -Ojai  Valley  (‘Ohigh’)  at 

a height  of  600-1200 ft.,  surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of  mountains  of 
which  Mt.  Topotapa  (600()  ft.)  is  the  chief.  This  valley  is  a favourite  winter 
res^t  for  invalids,  and  is,  perhaps,  the  richest  in  wild  flowers  of  any  soot 
in  California. 


405  M.  Montalvo  is  the  junction  of  the  line  (formerly  the  main 
route)  to  Saugus. 

Feom  Montalvo  to  Saugus,  45  M.,  railway  in  IV2  hr.  This  line  runs 
to  the  E.  up  the  Santa  Clara  Valley  (not  to  be  confused  with  the  valley  of 
the  same  name  farther  to  the  hi.;  see  p.  557).  At  (4  M.)  Saticoy  we  lose 
sight  of  the  sea.  11  M.  Santa  Paula,  a busy  little  place,  in  the  midst  of 
truck-farms  small  vineyards,  and  grazing  fields.  We  cross  the  Santa  Clara 
River  near  (2o  M.)  Piru^  a pretty  town  among  orange,  lemon,  and  pepper 
trees.  At  (30  M.)  Camulos,  on  the  right,  is  seen  the  home  of  ‘Ramona’ 
a typical  Spanish  ranch.  — 40  M.  Castaic.  The  mountains  now  close  in  • 
on  the  N.  are  the  foot-hills  of  the  San  Rafael  range,  on  the  S.  the  higher 
peaks  of  the  Sierra  San  Fernando.  — 45  M.  Saugus,  the  junction  of  the 
San  Joaquin  Valley  line  (see  p.  566). 


From  Montalvo  the  coast-line  runs  to  the  S.E.  to  (409  M.) 
Oxnard  (2000  inbab.),  situated  amid  a fertile  sugar-beet  country  and 
containing  large  sugar-factories.  We  now  turn  to  tbe  E.  to  (439  M.) 
Santa  Sussna,  in  a narrow  valley  between  the  Sierra  San  Fernando 
on  the  N.  and  the  Sierra  de  Santa  Monica  on  the  S.  About  4 M. 
farther  on,  we  enter  a newly  cut  tunnel,  IV2  M.  long.  At  (447  M.) 
Chatsworth  Park,  the  Srst  town  in  Los  Angeles  County  and  the  centre 
of  a famed  hay- district,  are  the  vast  quarries  that  supply  the  stone 
for  the  government  breakwater  at  San  Pedro  (see  p.  568).  Here  the 
line  reaches  the  Los  Angeles  River,  crossing  it  at  (457  M.)  Encino, 
and  runs  following  its  left  bank  through  a dry  sandy  valley  to  (466  M.) 
Burbank,  on  the  San  Joaquin  Valley  line  (p.  566).  Hence  to  — 
476  M.  Los  Angeles,  see  p.  566. 


36* 


564  Route  97. 


FRESNO. 


From  San  Francisco 


b.  Vi^  tlie  San  Joaquin  Valley. 

484  M.  Southern  Pacific  Railway  in  15-21  bra.  (fare  $ 15^  sleeper  $ 2.50). 

From  San  Francisco^  via  Oakland.,  to  (32  M.)  Port  Costa ^ see 
pp.  503,  502.  36  M.  Martinez^  the  usual  starting-point  for  an  ascent 
of  Mt.  Diablo  (see  p.  553) , which  rises  to  the  right.  At  (50  M.) 
Cornwall  we  leave  Suisun  Bay  (p.  502)  and  turn  towards  the  S. 
About  2 M.  to  the  S.  of  (68  M.)  Byron  are  the  Byron  Hot  Springs 
(130°  Fahr. ; Hotel,  from  $ 3).  — 83  M.  Tracy  (65  ft.)  is  the  junction 
of  the  old  route  to  San  Francisco  via  Livermore  (famous  for  its 
Sauternes)  and  Niles  and  of  a line  to  Fresno  (see  below)  via  Los  Banos 
and  Mendota^  on  the  W.  side  of  the  San  Joaquin  (‘Wahkeen’)  River. 
A little  farther  on  we  cross  the  San  Joaquin  and  reach  (94  M.)  Lathrop 
(25  ft.;  Hotel,  with  rail,  restaurant,  $2-3,  meal  75  c.),  the  junction 
of  the  old  line  to  Sacramento  via  Stockton  (p.  5()1).  We  now 
ascend  the  great  San  Joaquin  Valley,  the  granary  of  California, 
200  M.  long  and  30  M.  wide,  producing  endless  crops  of  grain  and 
fruit,  including  oranges,  figs,  olives,  raisins,  and  grapes.  Irrigation 
is  practised  here  on  a gigantic  scale,  and  many  oil-wells  are  seen.  1 14  M. 
Modesto  (90  ft. ; 2024  inhab.).  — 152  M.  Merced  (170  ft. ; 1969  inhab.), 
a thriving  trading  and  shipping  centre,  is  the  starting-place  of  one  of 
the  chief  routes  to  the  Yosemite  Valley  (see  p.  574).  Various  rivers 
are  crossed.  — 178  M.  Berenda  (255  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  a branch- 
line to  (22  M.)  Raymond.,  forming  the  usual  approach  to  the  Yose- 
mite Valley  (see  R.  101).  The  Sierra  Nevada  is  visible  to  the  left, 
including  Mts.  Lyell  (13,040  ft.),  Tyndall  (ca.  14,000  ft.),  Whitney 
(14,898  ft.),  and  Goddard  (ca.  14,000  ft.).  — 185  M.  Madera  (280  ft.), 
a ship  ping- point  for  timber,  brought  from  the  mountains  by  a ‘flume’, 
50  M.  long.  Near  (197  M.)  Herndon  we  cross  the  San  Joaquin.  — 
207  M.  Fresno  (290  ft.;  Hughes.,  Grand  Central.,  $ 2-2^2) i ^ well- 
built  and  well-paved  city  with  12,470  inhab. , is  the  centre  of  a 
large  raisin-growing  district,  which  annually  produces  75,000,000 
pounds  of  raisins.  The  value  of  these  and  its  other  products,  com- 
prising brandy,  olive-oil,  fruits,  grain,  lumber,  and  dairy  produce, 
amounted  in  1903  to  $ 15,000,000.  The  water  necessary  for  irriga- 
tion its  brought  from  the  mountains  by  an  extensive  system  of  canals. 

From  Fresno  a loop-line  runs  via  (88  M.)  Exeter  to  (141  M.)  Famoso 
(p.  565),  where  it  rejoins  the  main  line.  On  this  line  lies  (20  M.)  Sanger 
Junction  (Hotel),  whence  a tri-weekly  stage  runs  to  (45  M.)  Millwood  (through 
return- fare  from  San  Francisco  $ 19.40).  3 M.  to  the  S.  of  the  latter  lies  the 
General  Grant  Parlc^  comprising  125  mammoth  trees,  including  ‘General  Grant', 
one  of  the  largest  Sequoias  known  (106  ft.  in  circumference  at  its  base). 
About  7 M.  farther  to  the  S.  lies  the  Sequoia  National  Park  (see  below). 

At  (227  M.)  Kingsburg  (300 ft.)  we  cross  Kings  River  by  a trestle- 
bridge.  241  M.  Goshen  (285  ft.)  is  the  junction  of  a line  running 
to  the  W.  to  (60  M.)  Alcalde  and  the  productive  oil  fields  of  Coalinga^ 
and  of  another  running  to  the  E.  to  (17  M.)  Exeter.,  on  the  above- 
mentioned  loop-line  from  Fresno  to  Famoso. 

On  this  line,  8 M.  from  Goshen,  lies  Visalia  (p.  525),  whence  stages  run 
thrice  weekly  to  (30  M.)  Redstone  Park.,  going  on  the  next  day  to  (i23  M.) 


to  Los  Angeles. 


MOJAVE. 


97.  Route.  565 


the  Sequoia  National  Park  or  Giant  Forest  (6500  ft.  ^ Camp,  $2),  which  lies 
in  the  High  Sierra,  40  M.  to  the  E.  of  the  railway,  and  contains  splendid 
forests  of  sequoias,  besides  most  remarkable  gorges,  peaks,  and  caverns. 
The  tree  named  ‘General  Sherman’’  is  StOft.  in  height  and  34  ft.  in  girth. 
The  proprietors  of  the  coaches  provide  excellent  tent  accommodation  and 
good  food,  while  they  also  furnish  guides,  pack-trains,  and  camp-outfit  for 
those  who  wish  to  visit  ML  Whitney,  Kern  and  King'‘s  River  Canons,  and 
other  attractive  points  in  the  Sierra. 

251  M.  Tulare  (280  ft. ; Grand  Hotel,  $ 2),  a flourishing  little 
town  with  2216  inhah.  The  irrigation  in  this  district  is  largely  pro- 
vided by  artesian  wells,  the  water  being  raised  by  electric  pumps. 

About  7 M.  to  the  W.  of  (261  M.)  Tipton  (265  ft.)  lies  Tulare 
Lake,  a large  body  of  water,  at  one  time  over  50  M.  long,  but  which 
is  gradually  drying  up,  and  now  appears  much  of  the  time  like  a vast 
barren  desert  of  mud.  282  M.  Delano.  From  (294  M.)  Famoso 
coaches  also  run  to  (60  M.)  the  Sequoia  National  Park  (see  above).  — 
314  M.  Bakersfield  (415  ft.;  Southern,  $2-2Y2;  Grrand,  $21/2)?  with 
4836  inhabitants. 

From  Bakersfield  to  Olig,  50  M.  railway  in  3 hrs.  This  line  runs 
to  the  W.,  traversing  one  of  the  rich  oil  regions  of  the  Upper  San  Joaquin 
vallejq  of  which  Bakersfield  is  the  central  shipping  and  marketing  centre. 
Pipe-lines  lead  from  this  region  to  (300  M.)  Port  Richmond,  for  loading  into 
vessels  in  the  bay  of  San  Francisco.  This  oil  has  greatly  developed  the 
manufacturing  possibilities  of  the  State  (comp.  p.  546),  its  cost  as  fuel  being 
only  one-third  that  of  coal.  Bakersfield  is  becoming  a busy  manufacturing 
town,  and  factory- chimneys  and  oil-derricks  are  now  much  in  evidence. 
The  grain  and  fruit  lands  of  this  region  (150,(X)0  acres)  are  irrigated  by 
3300  M.  of  canals,  supplied  with  water  by  the  Kern  Eiver. 

At  (336  M.)  Caliente  (1290  ft.)  we  leave  the  San  Joaquin  Valley 
and  begin  to  ascend  the  *Teli^cliapi  Pass,  which  crosses  the  Sierra 
Nevada  between  this  valley  and  the  Desert  of  Mojave.  The  con- 
struction of  the  railway  here  is  a very  remarkable  piece  of  engineer- 
ing. The  line  winds  backwards  and  forwards  and  finally,  at  the  *Loop 
(3050  ft.),  crosses  its  own  track,  at  a height  of  about  80  ft.  above 
the  tunnel  it  has  just  threaded.  Eight  other  short  tunnels  are 
passed  through  before  the  summit  is  gained  at  (362  M.)  Tehachapi 
(4025  ft.),  beyond  which  the  train  runs  along  a plateau  for  some 
miles,  passing  a small  salt  lake,  before  beginning  the  descent  to  the 
desert.  371  M.  Cameron  (3785  ft.). 

382  M.  Mojave  (‘Mohahve’;  2750  ft.;  Railway  Hotel,  $ 3),  the 
junction  of  the  Santa  Ft  and  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroads  (see 
p.  525),  is  a handful  of  wooden  shanties  on  the  edge  of  the  cheer- 
less Mojave  Desert  described  at  p.  524.  The  Los  Angeles  line  runs 
towards  the  S.  across  the  desert,  forming  an  almost  absolutely 
straight  line  for  many  miles.  Old  Baldy  (p.  570)  is  seen  in  front, 
to  the  left,  while  the  San  Bernardino  Mts.  are  faintly  seen  on  the 
horizon  (farther  to  the  left).  396  M.  Rosamond  (2315  ft.).  Beyond 
(407  M.)  Lancaster  (2350  ft.)  we  quit  the  desert  for  a hilly  country, 
passing  through  several  short  tunnels  and  crossing  the  Soledad  Pass 
(3200  ft.).  417  M.  HaroZ(Z  (2820  ft.);  427M.  Acton  (2670  ft.).  We 
now  descend  steadily,  through  cuttings  and  over  bridges. 


566  Route  08. 


LOS  ANGELES. 


Hotels. 


452  M.  Saugus  (1160  ft.}  is  the  junction  of  a hranch-line  to 
Montalvo  (see  p.  563). 

The  Los  Angeles  line  runs  towards  the  S.  and  beyond  (454  M.) 
Newhall  (hotel),  a grain  and  cattle  point,  penetrates  the  San  Fernando 
Mts.  (ca.  3000  h.)  by  a tunnel  1^4  M.  long  (1470  ft.  above  the  sea), 
and  traverses  a gap  of  brown  hills  with  live  oaks.  The  Valley  of  San 
Fernando^  which  we  now  enter,  is  a great  grazing  valley,  and  its  green 
orange  and  olive  groves  form  a strong  contrast  to  the  desert  we  have 
been  traversing.  463  M.  Fernando  (1068  ft.),  with  the  ruins  of  the 
Spanish  Mission  of  San  Fernando.  474  M.  Bwr&anfe  (555  ft.),  famous  for 
its  alfalfa,  is  the  junction  of  the  main  Coast  line  (see  p.  563).  478  M. 
Tropico  (435  ft.)  is  famed  for  its  strawberries  (‘Tropino  beauties’). 

484  m.  Los  Angeles  (290  ft.),  see  below. 


98.  Los  Angeles. 

Railway  Stations.  Southern  Pacific^  Fifth  St.;  Santa  Fi  (Atchison.^ 
Topeka.,  and  Santa  Santa  Fe  Ave. ; Salt  Lake  (San  Pedro.,  Los  Angeles, 
and  Salt  Lake).,  E.  First  St. 

Hotels.  Westminster,  cor.  of  4th  & Main  Sts.,  from  $ 3,  R.  from 
$ 1 ; Pepper,  Lexington  (these  two  new) ; Angeles,  cor.  of  4th  & Spring  Sts., 
from  $ 4,  R.  from  $ 1;  Van  Nuts  Hotel,  cor.  of  4th  <fe  Main  Sts.,  R.  $ .1-5; 
Hollenbeck,  R,  from  $ 1 ; Nadeau,  R.  from  $ 1.  — The  following  hotels 
are  less  expensive  and  in  quieter  parts  of  the  town:  Melrose,  Grand  Ave., 
from  $ 2:  Bellevue  Terrace,  with  grounds,  from  $21/2;  Abbotsford  Inn, 
from  3 2;  and  several  smaller  hotels  about  the  narks  (see  p.  567).  — 
Fremont,  at  the  cor.  of  4th  & Olive  Sts.,  from  3272. — Travellers  report 
that  at  some  of  the  larger  hotels  in  Los  Angeles  it  is  desirable  to  come 
to  a clear  understanding  about  prices  beforehand. 

Restaurants.  Hollenbeck  Hotel;  Van  Nuys  Hotel;  Del  Monte;  Levy's. 

Electric  Cars  (5  c.)  traverse  the  chief  streets  and  run  to  the  suburbs.  — 
'‘Seeing  Los  Angeles'  Observation  Cars  and  Automobiles  (comp.  p.  17),  with 
guides,  several  times  daily. 

Post  Office,  Main  St.,  cor.  of  8th  St. 

British  Vice-Consul,  Mr.  Charles  White  Mortimer. 

Hotel  and  Travel  Bureau,  L.  L.  Whitlock.,  207  W.  Third  St. 

Los  Angeles.,  or  La  Puehla  de  Nuestra  Senora  la  Reina  de  Los 
Angeles  (‘City  of  Our  Lady  the  Queen  of  the  Angels'),  the  metro- 
polis of  Southern  California,  lies  on  the  Los  Angeles  River.,  20  M. 
above  its  mouth  and  15  M.  in  a direct  line  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
It  was  founded  by  the  Spaniards  in  1781  and  passed  into  American 
possession  in  1846.  It  was,  however,  of  no  great  importance  till 
after  1880,  when  it  underwent  an  almost  unprecedentedly  rapid 
increase  in  wealth  and  population.  Its  population  rose  from  11,183 
in  1880  to  50,395  in  1890  and  to  102,479  in  1900,  and  its  adobe 
houses  have  given  place  almost  entirely  to  stone  and  brick  business 
blocks  and  mansions  and  tasteful  wooden  residences.  It  is  now  a 
crowded  and  lively  town  of  wide  streets  and  spacious  side -walks, 
with  an  extensive  residential  quarter,  130  churches,  over  60  public 
schools,  and  about  1700  manufactories,  with  a total  annual  produce  of 
the  value  of  $ 30,000,000;  it  publishes  newspapers  in  seven  languages. 

Loa  Angeles  is  a railway-centre  of  great  importance  and  is  the  head- 


Main  Street. 


LOS  ANGELES. 


98.  Route.  567 


quarters  of  the  characteristic  Californian  industry  of  fruit-growing.  The 
plains  and  valleys  around  it  are  covered  with  vineyards,  olive,  orange,  and 
lemon-groves,  and  orchards.  In  1803  the  value  of  the  fresh  and  canned 
fruit  exported  from  Los  Angeles  amounted  to  $ 13,000,000.  Los  Angeles 
is  also  the  centre  of  a district  that  produces  petroleum  and  asphalt. 

Though  less  specifically  a health  resort  than  some^  other  places  in 
Southern  California,  Los  Angeles  enjoys  a mild  and  equable  climate,  with 
a tendency  to  coolness  at  night  (mean  annual  temp.,  Jan.  52°,  Aug.  70°). 
The  city,  especially  the  residential  quarters,  is  embowered  in  vegetation, 
among  the  characteristic  features  of  which  are  the  swift-growing  eucalyptus, 
the  graceful  pepper-tree,  an  occasional  palm,  Norfolk  Island  pines,  live-oaks, 
india-rubber  trees,  orange-trees,  roses,  geraniums,  yuccas,  century  plants, 
bananas,  calla  lilies,  and  pomegranates. 

Southern  California,  of  which  Los  Angeles  is  the  principal  city,  possesses, 
perhaps,  an  all-the-y ear-round  climate  that  approaches  perfection  as  nearly 
as  any  other  known  to  us.  It  is  a semi-tropical  climate  with  little  frost, 
no  snow,  and  moderate  winter  rains,  remarkable  for  its  equableness  and 
dryness.  Winter  and  summer  are  terms  that  here  lose  their  ordinary 
significance,  their  place  being  taken  by  what  may  almost  be  called  a perpetual 
spring.  Sea-bathing  may  be  practised  in  Dec.  or  Jan.,  while  the  dryness 
of  the  atmosphere  and  the  ocean  breezes  make  the  summer  much  less 
trying  than  in  places  farther  to  the  E.  The  wild  flowers  of  S.  California, 
of  which  the  golden  poppy  (EschschoUzia  Calif ornica)  is  one  of  the  most 
characteristic,  are  extraordinary  in  number,  variety,  and  brilliancy.  ‘The 
greatest  surprise  of  the  traveller  is  that  a region  which  is  in  perpetual 
bloom  and  fruitage,  where  semi-tropical  fruits  mature  in  perfection,  and 
the  most  delicate  flowers  dazzle  the  eye  with  color  the  winter  through, 
should  have  on  the  whole  a low  temperature,  a climate  never  enervating, 
and  one  requiring  a dress  of  woollen  in  every  month’  (Warner).  Comp. 
‘Our  Italy’,  by  Ghas.  Dudley  Warner ; ‘California  of  the  South’,  by  W.  Lindley 
and  J.  P.  Widney  (1888)^  ‘To  California  and  Back’,  by  0.  A.  Higgins  (1903); 
and  ‘Southern  California’,  by  G.  A.  Keeler  (1903). 

Main  Street  is  the  dividing  line  for  E.  and  W.  (as  First  St.  is 
for  N.  and  S.)  and  contains  many  substantial  buildings.  Among  these 
are  the  Federal  Building  ^ the  County  Court  House  in  Temple  St, 
and  the  City  Hall  in  Broadway.  The  latter  contains  a good  Public 
Library.^  with  over  90,000  volumes.  Other  edifices  worthy  of  mention 
are  the  Women's  Club,  in  the  ‘Mission -Renaissance’  style,  the  new 
Chamber  of  Commerce and  the  State  Normal  School.  The  Viaduct 
of  the  Electric  Tramway^  in  San  Fernando  St.,  spanning  the  railway 
tracks  on  the  E.  side  of  the  city,  is  an  interesting  piece  of  engineering. 
Los  Angeles  also  contains  four  Theatres  and  several  Paries  (including 
the  Griffith  Park  of  3000  acres,  and  the  Eastlake  and  Westlake  Parks, 
each  with  a small  lake).  There  is  a new  and  model  Race  Course  in 
the  suburbs.  The  small  plaza,  with  the  Church  of  Our  Lady,  at  the 
N.  end  of  the  business-town,  is  interesting  as  a survival  of  the  ancient 
settlement.  Just  beyond  is  a genuine  Chinatown  (p.  549),  keeping 
many  of  the  original  adobe  structures.  Sonora  Town,  the  surburb  to 
the  N.,  remains  unchanged  since  Fremont  hoisted  the  flag  in  1846. 
A visit  may  also  be  paid  to  one  of  the  open  Zanjas,  or  irrigating 
canals,  in  the  suburbs,  and  to  the  oil  belt,  with  its  curious  pumps. 

Los  Angeles  is  a busy  centre  for  short  trips,  chiefly  made  now  by  electric 
cars,  which  are  both  more  frequent  and  more  accessible  than  the  steam 
railways.  Round-trip  tickets  may  be  procured  either  from  the  conductor 
or  at  the  offices  (latter  advisable  on  crowded  days  to  ensure  a seat).  The 
Traction  Go.  manages  all  the  intramural  cars  and  issues  transfers  for  the 


568  Route  98. 


LOS  ANGELES. 


Environs. 


other  lines.  The  Los  Angeles  & Pacific  R.  R.  Go.  has  its  office  at  316  W. 
4th  St.  •,  the  Los  Angeles  & Redondo  R.  R.  Co.  at  217  W.  2n(i  St. ; the 
California  Pacific  Ry.  Go.  at  the  cor.  of  3rd  and  Hill  Sts.  •,  and  the  Pacific 
Electric  Ry.  Go.  at  the  cor.  of  6th  and  Main  Streets. 

From  Los  Angeles  to  Santa  Monica,  17  M.,  Southern  Pacific  Railway 
in  50  min.  5 or  Los  Angeles  &:  Pacific  electric  car  in  1 hr.  (round-trip  50  c.  ^ 
cars  every  1/2  hr.  •,  four  routes  *,  advisable  to  go  one  way  and  return  another). 

— On  the  way  we  pass  Hollywood.^  a suburb  of  charming  homes,  and  Saw- 
ielle.^  with  the  Pacific  branch  of  the  National  Soldiers'  Home  (2000  veterans). 

— Santa  Monica  (Arcadia,  from  $3;  Santa  Monica.^  from  $2),  a popular 
seaside-resort,  has  a good  beach,  on  which  surf-bathing  may  be  enjoyed 
all  the  year  round  (bath-house  with  warm -water  swimming-pool).  Adjacent 
is  Port  Los  Angeles.,  with  a large  wharf.  The  trip  may  be  extended  by 
taking  a car  to  Ocean  Park  (Holborow  Hotel,  $2),  a new  sea-side  resort,  and 
returning  via  The  Palms  to  Los  Angeles. 

From  Los  Angeles  to  Redondo  Beach,  by  the  Santa  Fe  Railway  (few 
trains),  23  M.,  in  3/4  hr. ; or  by  electric  cars  (20  M. ; hourly ; round-trip  50  c.).  — 
The  Los  Angeles- Pacific  cars  proceed  via  Inglewood.,  a pleasant  town  of 
suburban  homes,  and  Playa  del  Rey.,  and  then  along  the  coast  to  Redondo 
Beach.  — The  Los  Angeles  d-  Redondo  Ry.  proceeds  either  via  Inglewood  (see 
above)  or  via  Gardena.  — Redondo  Beach  {^Redondo  Beach  Hotel.,  from  $ 3), 
another  pleasant  sea-bathing  resort,  has  a beautiful  beach  and  good  facilities 
for  boating  and  fishing.  The  great  Tent  City  for  summer  residents,  with 
its  large  Auditorium  accommodating  40(X)  people,  is  a novel  feature.  There 
is  a deep-water  pier,  and  Redondo  is  becoming  of  importance  as  a shipping- 
port.  Steamers  ply  hence  to  San  Francisco  and  San  Diego. 

From  Los  Angeles  to  Long  Beach,  21  M.,  Salt  Lake  Railway  in  2/4  hr. 
(see  below) , or  Pacific  Electric  Railway  (every  1/4  hr.  ^ round-trip  50  c.).  — 
Long  Beach  (Amem,  $2-3;  Del  Mar,  from  $2;  Julian,  $2-2V2),  a frequented 
summer-resort,  with  2250  inhab.,  has  an  excellent  beach,  a bath-house  with 
280  swimming-pools  (costing  $90,000),  and  other  attractions. 

From  Ljs  Angeles  to  San  Pedro,  22  M.  , Southern  Pacific  Railway  in 
50  min.,  or  Calif  or  nia- Pacific  Electric  Railway  (hourly;  round-trip  50  c.).  — 
5M.  Florence,  the  junction  of  the  line  to  San  Diego  (p.572);  10 M.  Compton; 
18 M.  Thenard,  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (4  M.)  Long  Beach  (see  above); 
19  M.  Wilmington,  a small  seaport.  — 22  M.  San  Pedro  (^Clarence,  Colonial, 
S IV2),  with  1787  inhab.,  is  the  chief  seaport  of  Los  Angeles,  with  a harbour 
that  has  been  improved  at  a cost  of  over  $3,000,0(X)  and  admits  vessels 
of  20  ft.  draught.  Steamers  ply  hence  regularly  to  San  Francisco,  Santa 
Barbara,  San  Diego,  etc.  — San  Pedro  may  also  be  reached  by  the  Salt 
Lake  Railway  (27  M.,  in  Ihr.),  which  runs  via  (21 M.)  Long  Beach  (see  above) 
and  ends  at  East  San  Pedro,  on  Rattlesnake  Island. 

[From  San  Pedro  steamers  ply  regularly  to  (25  M.)  Santa  Catalina,  a 
beautiful  mountainous  island,  with  fine  rocky  coasts,  which  has  lately  been 
much  frequented  for  its  delightful  climate  (usual  temperature  60-70°  Fahr.) 
and  excellent  fishing.  The  only  resort  is  Avalon  (J/e^ropoZc,  $3-7;  Grand 
View,  from  $2,  simple  and  good;  Glenmore,  from  $ IV2;  numerous 
boarding-houses  and  lodgings),  situated  on  the  S.E.  side  of  the  island, 
facing  a crescent-shaped  bay  under  the  lee  of  the  mountains.  Wild  goats 
may  be  hunted  among  the  hills,  and  the  quail-shooting  is  also  good.  Trips 
in  glass-bottomed  boats,  with  open-sea  aquarium  in  sight  below,  golf,  and 
inland  drives  are  among  the  diversions  of  the  place.  Wild  flowers  are  very 
abundant.  Avalon  has  the  credit  of  having  started  the  first  and  probably 
the  only  newspaper  entirely  dependent  on  wireless  dispatches,  which  are 
sent  daily  by  its  correspondent  at  Los  Angeles.  The  paper  is  called  ‘The 
Wireless’.  — See  ‘Santa  Catalina’,  by  C.  F.  Holder.'] 

From  Los  Angeles  to  San  Gabriel,  'bj  Southern  Pacific  Railway,  ^FL., 
in  1/2  hr.  (comp.  p.  570),  or  by  Pacific  ElectricltSiXS  (every  1/2  hr.).  The  route 
passes  Stoneman''s  Ranch  and  Shorh  (see  p.  586).  — San  Gabriel,  with  its 
mission  church,  see  p.  586. 

From  Los  Angeles  to  Monrovia,  18  M.,  Pacific  Electric  Go.  every  1/2  hr. 
This  is,  perhaps,  the  pleasantest  trolley-trip'near  Los  Angeles,  running  through 
orange-groves  and  affording  the  best  view  of  the  San  Bernardino  Mts.  The 


Excursions. 


LOS  ANGELES. 


98.  Route.  569 


route  passes  (17  M.)  Arcadia,  the  station  for  Baldwin's  Ranch,  with  a race- 
track and  the  best  stud  of  thoroughbred  horses  in  the  West.  — Monrovia 
(Vista  Grande  Hotel)  may  also  be  reached  by  railway  (comp.  pp.  527  586). 

From  Los  Angeles  to  Mt.  Lowe,  by  Pacific  Electric  Railway  (rkurn- 
fare  $ 2.50).  This  trip  may  be  made  in  a short  day,  starting  at  9 or  10  a.m. 
and  regaining  Los  Angeles  between  3 and  6 p.m.  — For  a description  of 
the  route,  see  pp.  570,  571. 

From  Los  Angeles  to  Mt.  Wilson  (return-fare  $2.40).  A favourite 
route  is  by  the  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  to  (15  M.)  Santa  Anita,  thence  by  omnibus 
to  the  foot  of  the  ‘Wilson  trail’,  and  by  burro  to  the  (8  M.)  top  (comp, 
p.  570).  — The  ascent  may  also  be  made  via  Pasadena  (see  below). 

Trip  round  the  ‘Kite  Shaped  Track’  (166  M.).  This  popular  excursion 
by  the  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  may  be  made  in  one  day  (with  start  at  8.30  a.m.)  or 

may  be  spread  over  several  days  (fare  $4.10^  special  excursion-rate  $2.75). 

The  train  runs  via  Pasadena  (see  below),  Santa  Anita  (p.  527),  Upland  (p.  527) 
and  San  Bernardino  (p.  526)  to  (69  M.)  Redlands  (1350  ft.;  Windsor,  from 
$21/2;  Casa  Loma,  from  $3),  an  orange-growing  city  with  4797  inhab.,  finely 
situated  on  the  slopes  of  the  foot-hills,  with  good  views  of  the  San  Bernardino 
Mts.  (K.)  and  the  San  Jacinto  Mts.  (S.).  Time  is  allowed  here  for  luncheon 
or  for  a drive  to  the  beautiful  Smiley  Heights  and  Canon  Crest  Park.  Leaving 
Redlands  (about  1 p.m.)  we  return  via  (72  M.)  Mentone  and  ^9  M.)  Highland 
to  (87  M.)  San  Bernardino,  whence  we  proceed  over  the  larger  loop  via 
Colton  (p.  526),  to  Riverside  (p.  526),  where  the  train  halts  for  about  2 hrs 
to  allow  of  a drive  (comp.  p.  526).  Thence  we  return  to  (166  M.)  Los  Angeles 
via  Casa  Blanca,  Corona,  Orange  (p.  571),  Anaheim  (p.  571),  La  Mirada,  and 
Redondo  Junction  (p.  571). 

The  ‘Inside  Track  Flyer’  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  .offers  an 
excursion  similar  to  the  above,  lasting  from  9 a.m.  to  6.30  p.m.  It  takes 
us  via  San  Gabriel  (p.  586),  Pomona  (p.  586),  Ontario  (p.  587),  and  Colton 
(p.  586)  to  Riverside  (p.  526;  halt  of  2^2  hrs  ),  then  via  Loma  TAnda  (Loma 
Linda  Hotel)  to  Redlands  (see  above;  stop  of  2 hrs.),  and  finally  back  via 
(30  M.)  Pomona  to  (33  M.)  Los  Angeles. 

^ [From  Redlands  (see  above)  a coach  (fine  views)  runs  thrice  weebly 
via  (18  M.)  Fredalba  to  (41  M.)  Bear  Valley  (6400  ft. ; Henry’s  Hotel),  where 
a gigantic  reservoir  has  been  formed  by  damming  up  a mountain-gorge.] 

From  Los  Angeles  to  Pasadena,  see  R.  99;  to  San  Diego,  see  R.  100;  to 
Santa  Barbara  San  Francisco,  see  R.  97;  to  New  Orleans,  etc.,  see  R.  104. 


99.  From  Los  Angeles  to  Pasadena. 

Santa  Fe  Railway  to  (10  M.)  Pasadena  in  25  min.  (fare  25  c.;  return- 
fare  35  c.). 

Pacific  Electric  Railway  to  (10  M.)  Pasadena,  two  routes,  in  45  and 
55  min.  respectively  (fare  15  c.;  return -fare  25  c.),  and  thence  to  (6  M.) 
Altadena  in  1/4  hr. 

Pasadena  may  also  be  reached  by  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  via 
Shorb  (p.  568;  11  M.,  in  1/2  br.)- 

Los  Angeles,  see  p.  566.  Both  railways  ascend  the  valley  of  the 
Arroyo  Seco  (‘dry  river’),  passing  several  small  intermediate  stations. 

10  M.  Pasadena  (830  ft. ; ^Hotel  Green,  with  large  annex,  $3-8; 
Raymond;  La  Pintoresca,  from  $4;  Maryland,  $4-6;  Quirnalda, 
Casa  Grande,  these  two  open  all  the  year ; many  smaller  hotels  and 
boarding-houses),  a thriving  business  city  and  health-resort , with 
a resident  population  of  (1900)  9117,  lies  on  the  level  floor  of  the 
fertile  San  Gabriel  Valley,  about  5 M.  from  the  base  of  the  Sierra 
Madre  Range  (2000-11,000  ft.).  To  the  S.E.  rises  Oak  Knoll  (crowned 
hy  the  Raymond  Hotel),  a small  hill  commanding  a splendid  ^Yiew 


570  Route  99. 


PASADENA. 


across  the  valley,  with  its  glossy-green  orange-groves,  to  the  snow- 
topped  wall  of  the  Sierra  Madre.  Mt.  San  Antonio  (see  below),  in  the 
San  Bernardino  Range,  is  seen  overtopping  the  Sierra  Madre  to  the 
N.E.,  while  the  San  Jacinto  Peaks  (p.  587)  are  visible  on  the  S.E. 
horizon.  To  the  S.  and  S.W.  lies  the  ocean,  with  the  mountainous 
islands  of  Santa  Catalina  (p.  568)  and  San  Clemente  (with  its  curious 
rivers  of  sand  and  relics  of  an  unknown  race). 

The  city  of  Pasadena  is  well  laid  out  and  contains  good  Schools. 
Churches^  Public  Library  (notable  both  for  architecture  and  excellent 
management),  an  Opera  House^  and  other  substantial  buildings.  The 
Museum  of  the  Pasadena  Academy  of  Sciences  contains  an  interesting 
collection  of  antiquities,  fossils,  and  objects  of  natural  history.  The 
wealth  of  vegetation  in  the  streets  and  gardens  includes  the  eucalyptus, 
pepper-trees,  olives,  lemon  and  orange  trees,  cork  and  india-rubber 
trees,  date  and  fan  palms,  bananas,  guavas,  Japanese  persimons, 
locust  trees,  and  other  trees  and  shrubs  too  numerous  to  name.  The 
annual  Floral  Parade  (Jan.  1st)  attracts  thousands  of  onlookers  from 
Los  Angeles  and  elsewhere.  The  roads  in  the  neighbourhood  are 
good,  and  many  pleasant  drives  may  be  made.  Comp.  ‘All  about 
Pasadena’,  by  C.  F.  Holder. 

One* of  tlie  most  popular  excursions  from  Pasadena  is  the  ascent  of 
Echo  Mountain  and  of  Mount  Lowe  (see  p.  571).  — The  ascent  of  -Mt.  Wilson 
(5760  ft.)  is  generally  accomplished  by  omnibus  to  tbe  foot  of  the  trail  and 
thence  to  the  summit  by  burro  (fare,  there  and  back,  including  mule  and 
guide,  $21/2).  A good  road,  9 M.  long,  beginning  at  Eaton  Canon  (5  M. 
from  Pasadena  and  2‘/2  M.  from  Altadena,  see  below:  omnibus  twice  daily 
to  this  point)  ascends  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Harvard  (5433  ft.  ^ Martin’s  Camp, 
open  throughout  the  year,  $ 2),  an  adjacent  peak,  whence  the  top  of  Mt. 
Wilson  is  easily  reached.  The  *View  is  extensive  and  very  beautiful.  The 
ascent  of  the  two  peaks  is  also  often  made  from  Santa  Anita  (p.  527).  — 
The  *"San  Gabriel  Mission  (see  p.  586)  lies  3^/2  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Pasadena; 
the  road  to  it  leads  through  large  orange-groves.  — Among  other  easily 
accessible  points  of  interest  near  Pasadena  are  Stoneman's  Ranch^  with  line 
orange-groves,  1 M.  to  the  S.  *,  Sunny  Slope  Winery,  d^/2  M.  to  the  E.  •,  the  Shorb 
or  San  Gabriel  Winery,  2^/2  M.  to  the  S.,  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world; 
Baldwin''s  Ranch  (p.  569) , 5 M.  to  the  E. ; the  Ostrich  Farm  (adm.  25  c.), 
1V2M.  to  the  N.W.;  Millards"  Canon,  5 M.  to  the  N.;  Arroyo  Seco  Canon, 
5 M.  to  the  N.W.,  reached  via  the  Devil's  Gate  (tramway);  Linda  Vista,  2 M. 
to  the  N.E ; and  ^La  Canada  Valley,  41/2  M.  to  the  N.W.  The  last  five  points 
may  be  easily  combined  in  one  circular  drive.  Mt.  Disappointment  (5200  ft.) 
and  Brown's  Peak  (5300  ft.)  may  be  ascended  (with  guide)  by  those  who  are 
fond  of  mountain-climbing.  Mt.  San  Antonio  {Old  Baldy ; 10,140  ft.),  27  M. 
to  the  N.E.,  is  best  ascended  from  Upland  (p.  527). 

The  sportsman  will  find  abundance  of  game  for  his. gun  in  the  vicinity 
of  Pasadena,  including  bears  in  the  remoter  recesses  of  the  mountains. 
Coursing  is  also  practised,  the  hares  or  jack-rabbits  affording  good  sport. 

Beyond  Pasadena  tbe  ‘Short  Route’  of  the  Pacific  Electric  Co* 
(see  p.  569)  goes  on  to  (6  M.)  Altadena  (1300  ft.),  near  the  foot  of 
the  Sierra  Madre.  Immense  tracts  here  are  covered  in  winter  by 
brilliant  poppies. 

From  Altadena  the  Mount  Lowe  Electbic  Kail  way,  starting  from 
Los  Angeles,  runs  to  (2.1/2  M.)  the  PmUo  Falls  in  the  Rubio  Canon  (1900  ft.), 
whence  a Great  Cable  Incline,  1000  yds.  long,  ascends  to  the  summit  of 
-Echo  Mountain  (3500  ft. ; return-fare  from  Los  Angeles  $ 1 Vzh  which  com- 
mands a wide  and  beautiful  view.  Here  are  the  Lowe  Observatory  (with  a 


LuNOlS. 


ANAHEIM. 


100.  Emu.  571 


16-inch  equatorial  telescope  open  to  visitors)  and  a collection  of  native  wild 
animals.  — From  Echo  Mt, , the  mountain-railway  goes  on  to  the  Alpine 
Tavern  (5000  ft.;  $3-3V2).  Hence  we  may  ascend  on  foot  or  on  pony-hack 
($  1 each,  including  share  of  guide)  to  the  top  of  Mt.  Lowe  (60C0  ft.),  which 
commands  a *View  extending  for  over  100  in  every  direction.  The  route 
skirts  the  wonderful  Grand  Canon  The  return-trip  from  Alpine  Tavern  to 
Echo  Mt.  is  made  by  gravity. 


100.  From  Los  Angeles  to  San  Diego  and  National  City. 

Coronado  Beach. 

132  M.  Santa  F6  Railway  to  (126  M.)  San  Diego  in  i hrs.  (fare  $3.85; 
return-fare,  good  for  14  days,  $6,  for  30  days  $7  50;  chair-car  50  c.)  and 
to  (132)  National  City  in  41/2  hrs.  (fare  $3.95). 

Los  Angeles.^  see  p.  566.  2 M.  Redondo  Junction^  for  the  line  to 
Redondo  Beach  (p.  668).  The  train  runs  at  first  through  groves  of 
oranges  and  walnuts  and  afterwards  over  meadows.  A good  view  is 
obtained  to  the  left,  above  the  foot-hills,  of  the  Sierra  Madre  (p.  570). 
Beyond  (7  M.)  Bandini  we  cross  the  San  Gabriel  River.  At  and  beyond 
(10  M.)  Rivera  many  oil-well  pumps  are  seen  on  the  heights.  13  M. 
Santa  Fe  Springs  (155  ft.);  27  M.  Anaheim  (Commercial  Hotel,  $2), 
a pleasant  little  town,  in  one  of  the  best  orange-growing  districts  of 
the  State.  We  cross  the  S.  Pac.  Railway.  English  walnut-trees  are 
frequent,  and  we  now  meet  with  the  fir^t  olive- orchards,  with  small 
gray  trees  like  those  of  S.  France.  Before  reaching  (32  M.)  Orange 
(180  ft.;  The  Yilla,  from  $1^/4),  the  junction  of  the  line  from 
San  Bernardino  (see  p.  526)  and  a centre  for  celery  and  peanut 
growing,  we  cross  the  wide  sandy  bed  of  the  Santa  Arm  River.  This 
part  of  the  jline  passes  through  numerous  fine  orange-groves.  — 
34  M.  Santa  Ana,  a fruit-packing  town,  is  the  junction  of  a short 
line  to  (11  M.)  Newport  Beach,  on  the  coast.  Near  (47  M.)  El  Toro 
(425  ft.),  whence  stages  run  to  (9  M.)  Laguna  Beach  (fare  25  c.), 
is  ModjesTca,  the  winter -home  of  Mme.  Modjeska.  We  now  de- 
scend rapidly  through  a rolling  green  country,  not  unlike  the  fells 
near  Appleby  and  Carlisle.  To  the  left,  at  (56  M.)  Capistrano,  are 
seen  the  interesting  ruins  of  the  Mission  of  San  Juan  Capistrano, 
founded  in  1776_  and  overthrown  by  an  earthquake  in  1812.  It  has 
been  rescued  from  farther  ruin  and  partly  restoredby  the  ‘Landmarks 
Club’,  which  devotes  itself  to  such  work  along  this  coast,  and  is  still 
used  for  services.  We  reach  the  ocean  at  (59  M.)  San  Juan  (‘Whahn^), 
and  henceforward  for  nearly  60  M.  have  it  close  to  us  on  the  right. 
A little  below  is  Dana's  Point,  over  which  the  hides  were  hurled,  as 
narrated  in  Dana’s  ‘Two  Years  before  the  Mast’.  — From  (85  M.) 
Oceanside  (Anchorage,  new;  Miramar,  from  $ 2)  a drive  (team  with 
driver,  $ 2)  may  be  taken  to  the  (4  M.)  Mission  of  San  Luis  Rey  de 
Francia,  which,  after  standing  empty  and  in  ruins  for  nearly  a 
century,  is  again  occupied  by  Franciscans.  A branch-line  runs  from 
Oceanside  to  (20  M.)  Fallhrook  and  (23  M.)  Escondido.  Fine  views 
of  the  ocean  to  the  right.  At  (108  M.)  Sorrento  we  begin  the  ascent  of 
a steep  grade  to  (112  M.)  Miramar,  beyond  which  we  descend,  pass- 


572  Route  100. 


SAN  DIEGO. 


From  Los  Angeles 


ing  from  a rich  fruit-growing  country  of  lemons,  figs,  loquats,  olives, 
and  many  other  varieties,  into  a country  of  vast  plains,  rolling  hack 
to  the  foot-hills  on  the  east,  all  given  over  to  sheep-grazing. 

126  M.  San  Diego  (Rolinson^  situated  on  a hill  above  the  town, 
$2Y2"5;  Peters j on  University  Heights,  new;  Helir.j  from  $2,  small 
but  well  spoken  of;  Brewster^  from  $21/2^  from  $1;  Brit,  vice- 
consul,  Mr.  W.  T.  Allen).,  a city  of  (1900)  17,700  inhab.,  has,  like 
many  other  Californian  towns,  been  the  subject  of  a ‘boom’  which  has 
led  it  to  lay  out  streets  and  town-lots  in  places  likely  to  be  mere 
pasture-land  for  many  years  to  come.  It  is  now,  however,  steadily 
growing,  carries  on  a considerable  fish -industry,  and  contains  many 
churches,  schools,  public  buildings,  and  public  parks.  It  lies  on 
a bay  of  its  own  name  and  has  the  best  harbour  on  the  Pacific  Coast 
after  that  of  San  Francisco.  Steamers  ply  regularly  to  San  Pedro 
(p.  568),  San  Francisco,  and  ports  in  Lower  California,  and  sailing 
vessels  to  Hawaii,  Australia,  and  numerous  Californian  ports,  while 
a through-car  (sleeper)  runs  over  the  Santa  Fe  route,  on  the  ‘California 
Limited’ , to  Chicago  in  3 days.  The  climate  is  mild  and  equable 
(mean  temp.,  Jan.  54®,  Aug.  69®),  and  the  country  is  very  fertile, 
both  in  fruit  and  grain.  Mulberry-trees  thrive  here,  and  a silk-industry 
is  growing  up.  The  city  contains  a U.  S.  garrison  (Fort  Rosecrans),  and 
also  possesses  a U.  S.  jety,  new  quarantine  and  naval  coaling  stations, 
and  fortifications.  The  following  excursions  may  be  made  nearly  as 
well  from  Coronado  Beach  (see  below)  as  from  San  Diego. 

About  6V2  M.  to  tlie  N.  of  San  Diego  is  the  old  Mission  of  San  Diego.,  the 
first  settlement  (1769)  made  by  white  men  in  California.  Its  olive-groves 
are  very  prolific.  The  Mission  may  he  reached  by  taking  the  electric  car 
to  (4  M.)  the  hills  overlooking  the  Mission  Valley.,  and  thence  by  burro  (hard 
to  find),  or  on  foot  (2^/2  M.  to  Mission  from  car-terminus)^  or  we  may 
drive  all  the  way,  descending  the  curious  and  very  steep  '‘Mission  Grade'. 
Drivers  should  return  by  the  Old  Town  of  San  Diego  (the  original  settle- 
ment), with  its  adobe  buildings,  the  house  in  which  Ramona  was  married 
(see  H.  H.'s  ‘Ramona’),  the  Spanish  church- bells  (100  years  old),  and  a 
mission-school  attended  by  Indian  and  white  children.  — Other  favourite 
points  are  (5  M.)  Paradise  Valley;  the  Sweetwater  Dam  (14  M.  to  the  E.), 
396  ft.  long,  90  ft.  high,  and  12-46  ft.  thick,  forming  a reservoir  with  a 
capacity  of  6,000,000,000  gallons  (these  two  best  reached  by  the  National  City 
Otay  ,R.  R.  from  San  Diego  to  Tia  Juana  (p.  573;  return-fare  $1);  Pacific 
Beach  reached  by  a steam-tramway  (10  M.);  La  Jolla  Gave  (‘Holya’),  with  the 
curious  ‘Alligator  Rock’,  14  M.  to  the  N.W.,  which  can  he  entered  only 
when  the  tide  is  out  (this  and  Pacific  Beach  may  be  combined  with  a visit 
to  the  Old  Town  by  taking  the  San  Diego,  Pacific  Beach,  & La  Jolla 
Railroad);  and  El  Cajon  Valley  (‘Gabon’),  15  M.  to  the  N.E.  (reached  by 
the  San  Diego,  Cuyamaca,  & Eastern  R.  R.). 

An  interesting  trip  by  steamer  (once  weekly)  may  be  made  from  San 
Diego  to  (11  hrs.)  Ensenada  (Iturbide,  $2),  a town  in  Lower  California, 
Mexico,  with  golf-link's,  a fine  climate,  and  wild  scenery. 


Coronado  Beach,  on  a small  peninsula  immediately  opposite 
San  Diego  and  forming  the  outer  arm  of  San  Diego  Bay,  is  reached 
from  San  Diego  Railway  Station  in  20  min.  by  an  electric  car  (5  c.) 
and  ferry  (5  c.),  connecting  with  an  electric  car  leading  to  the  hotel 


to  National  City.  CORONADO  BEACH. 


100.  'Route.  573 


(5  c. ; liotel-automobiles  from  the  station  to  the  hotel  50  c.,  inch  ferry 
and  hand-haggage).  Coronado  Beach,  about  12  M.  in  length,  consists 
of  a narrow  tongue  of  sand,  running  to  the  N.  from  the  mainland  and 
ending  in  the  expansions  known  as  the  South  and  North  Beach^  each 
about  11/2  M.  square.  The  latter,  opposite  Point  Loma  (see  below), 
forms  the  S.  horn  of  the  entrance  to  San  Diego  Bay  and  is  still  mainly 
a waste  of  sand  and  chaparral,  kept  as  a game  preserve  (of  rabbits 
and  quail  chiefly)  for  the  guests  of  the  hotel.  The  South  Beach,  on 
the  other  hand,  has  been  partly  laid  out  as  a city  and  contains  several 
hundred  cottages,  tine  trees,  beautiful  gardens,  a Japanese  cottage 
and  tea-garden  (adm.,  including  tea  and  cake,  25  c.),  golf-links  with 
club-house,  and  other  attractions.  Its  permanent  population  is  about 
1500.  The  University  of  California  (p.  502)  has  a small  marine 
biological  station  on  this  beach,  which  is  to  he  enlarged  and  have  an 
Aquarium  added.  The  *Hotel  del  Coronado  (from  $3,  summer  and 
pension  rates,  less)  is  one  of  the  largest,  finest,  and  most  comfortable 
hotels  in  California,  and  is  delightfully  situated  close  to  the  ocean 
and  an  excellent  sandy  beach.  Adjacent  are  bathing-tanks  of  salt- 
water, for  summer  and  winter  use,  while  steam-yachts,  launches, 
and  boats  afford  opportunity  for  excursions  by  water.  Flowers  thrive 
wonderfully  on  Coronado  Beach,  and  the  flower-beds  adjoining  the 
hotel  are  of  astonishing  brilliancy.  The  tower  of  the  hotel  commands 
a splendid  *View. 

The  Climate  of  Coronado  Beach  is  mild,  dry,  and  equable  (mean  winter 
temp.  53°,  spring  59°,  summer  68°,  autumn  65°).  The  daily  range  is  sin- 
gularly small,  the  difference  between  the  lowest  and  the  highest  mean 
temperature  of  the  24hrs.  amounting  in  some  years  to  only  10°.  The  average 
annual  rainfall  is  ten  inches,  and  the  average  number  of  rainy  days  is 
less  than  a score.  The  Coronado  Mineral  Water.,  used  in  the  hotel,  has  been 
found  efficacious  in  liver  and  kidney  complaints. 

Among  the  points  of  interest  on  South  Beach  are  Hat  Ostrich  Farm  (adm. 
25  c.)  and  the  beautiful  *'Boianical  Gardens  (2/3 M.  from'  the  Hotel;  station 
on  the  electric  line  to  the  ferry).  Near  the  hotel  is  a Tent  City  (summer 
under  the  same  management,  consisting  of  1000  tents  furnished  as 
hotel-bedrooms,  with  a hydrant  at  each,  and  including  a theatre,  a restaurant, 
shops,  and  reading  and  concert  rooms.  Expenses  may  be  comfortably  limited 
here  to  $1  daily.  — An  excursion  should  be  made  to  Zowa  ("  View), 

the  N.  horn  of  the  entrance  to  San  Diego  Bay,  reached  by  boat  to  Ballast 
Point  (2  M.  below  the  view-point)  or  by  carriage  from  San  Diego.  The 
uppermost  of  the  two  lighthouses  here,  500  ft.  above  the  sea,  is  said  to  be 
the  most  loftily-situated  lighthouse  in  the  world  (now  disused).  About 
midway  between  the  landward  end  and  the  extreme  point  of  the  headland 
is  the  site  of  a Theosophical  In'stiiution  of  the  ‘Universal  Brotherhood’, 
with  its  ‘Homestead  Hotel’  (from  $ 3).  — Other  excursions  may  be  made  to 
the  places  mentioned  in  connection  with  San  Diego  and  National  City.  — 
Good  fishing  for  mackerel,  barracouda,  halibut,  and  bluefish  is  obtained 
in  the  bay  or  ocean , while  quail  may  be  shot  on  North  Beach  and  wild- 
fowl along  the  shore. 


Beyond  San  Diego  the  railway  soon  reaches  its  terminus  at 
(132  M.)  National  City  {San  Miguel.,  $2-3),  with  1086inhab.,  con- 
nected by  a steam-motor  line  with  (13  M.)  Tia  Juana  (‘TeeaHooahna’; 
Aunt  Jane),  situated  just  beyond  the  Mexican  frontier. 


574 


101.  The  Yosemite  Valley. 

Approaches.  The  usnal  and  most  convenient  approach  to  the  Yosemite 
Valley  is  that  described  below,  via  Berenda  and  Raymond  Yivs.  from  San 
Francisco^  18  hrs.  by  the  special  express  route,  p.  575).  The  Valley  is  also 
sometimes  entered  via  Stockton^  Oakdale^  Chinese^  and  the  Big  Oak  Flat  Road 
(see  below),  or  via  Merced  and  the  Goulterville  Road  (see  below).  The 
approach  via  Stockton  is  now  hardly  ever  used.  The  picturesque  Hetch- 
Hetchy  Valley  (p.  581)  and  the  Calaveras  Grove  (p.  501),  though  not  on 
any  of  the  recognized  Yosemite  routes,  may  be  included  in  the  Yosemite 
trip  if  the  visitor  is  willing  to  make  the  necessary  detours.  At  least  one  day 
extra  would  be  required  in  either  case.  Circular  tickets  of  any  desired 
character,  including  transportation  only,  going  and  returning  by  one  or 
diverse  routes,  or  including  all  necessary  expenses  at  hotels  and  on  the 
trails  while  in  the  Valley , may  be  obtained  during  the  summer  season  at 
the  San  Francisco  office  of  the  Yosemite  Stage  <k  Turnpike  Co.  (613  Market 
St.),  or  at  the  offices  of  other  transportation  lines  into  the  Valley.  From 
San  Francisco,  the  price  of  the  standard  round-trip  ticket,  including  trans- 
portation only,  is  $38^  the  minimunr  charge  for  board  at  the  hotels  on 
the  way  and  in  the  Valley  (two  days)  averages  about  $ 3 per  day.  Trail 
expenses  in  the  valley  depend  entirely  on  circumstances,  but  if  animals 
and  guides  are  used  will  amount  to  not  less  than  $3  per  day.  Similar  tickets 
may  be  procured  at  Los  Angeles  (standard  round-trip  $46.20)  and  other 
places  where  these  companies  have  offices.  It  is  advisable  to  apply  for 
tickets  several  days  in  advance,  as  the  stage-accommodation  in  entering 
the  Valley  is  limited^  and  the  same  precaution  should  be  observed  in 
leaving  the  Valley. 

Travellers  approaching  the  Valley  via  the  Stockton  and  Oakdale  route 
take  the  train  from  San  Francisco  to  (103  M.  *,  4 hrs.)  Stockton  (p.  601)  and 
from  Stockton  to  (34  M. ; IV2  hr.)  Oakdale.,  proceeding  by  the  Sierra  Railway 
to  (35  31.  \ IVs  hr.)  Chinese.,  and  go  on  tbence  by  stage  to  (ca.  50  M.)  the  Valley 
(comp.  p.  502). 

Travellers  ente.  ing  via  Merced  (pp.  525,  564)  take  the  train  from  San 
Francisco  to  (143-152  M.  ^ 4 hrs.)  Merced.,  and  the  stage  thence  to  (42  M.  •, 
8 hrs.)  Coulterville,  where  the  night  is  spent  at  a good  hotel.  Next  morning 
they  start  at  6 a.m.  and  proceed  via  Hazel  Green  (luncheon-station),  reached 
at  noon,  10  (46  31.)  the  Valley,  which  is  reached  at  5 p.m.  At  Hazel  Green 
begins  what  is  known  as  the  ‘Double  Loop’,  which  means  that  in  going 
towards  the  Valley  .we  go  past  Co.q  Merced  Big  Trees  and  through  the  Merced 
Canon.,  while  in  returning  we  pass  the  Tuolumne  Big  Trees  (round-trip 
from  San  Francisco  $28.50;  50  lbs.  of  baggage  free). 

Hotels.  The  only  hotel  in  the  Valley  itself  (p.  577)  affords  reason- 
ably comfortable  quarters.  There  are  also  fair  hotels  at  the  stopping- 
places  of  the  stages  on  the  way  into  the  Valley,  and  likewise  a good  inn 
at  Glacier  Point  (p.  579).  Two  comfortable  camps  are  now  established, 
where  the  visitor  gets  a bed  in  a tent  and  substantial  food  for  considerably 
less  than  the  hotel  rates  (Gurry's  Camp  and  Yosemite  Camp.,  each  $2  a day). 

Season.  Plan  of  Tour.  The  season  of  travel  in  the  Yosemite  begins 
about  April  1st  and  ends  about  Nov.  1st.  Perhaps  the  middle  of  May 
is  on  the  whole  the  best  time  for  a visit,  as  the  roads  are  then  generally 
free  from  snow  or  dust,  the  temperature  is  pleasantly  warm  by  day  and 
cool  at  night,  the  waterfalls  are  still  full  of  water,  the  snow-effects  on 
the  mountains  are  lovely,  and  the  wild-flowers  are  in  profusion.  On  the 
other  hand  some  of  the  trails  may  still  be  closed  by  snow.  Campers  com- 
monly visit  the  Valley  in  June,  July,  or  Aug.,  and  suitable  camping-places 
are  set  apart  for  their  use.  It  is  possible  to  see  all  the  points  usually  visited 
in  about  three  days,  but  it  is  advisable  to  spend  at  least  a week  in  the 
Valley.  Those  who  have  time  for  one  trip  only  should  select  that  to 
Glacier  Point,  which  gives  a view  of  the  Valley  itself,  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
and  the  Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls.  Next  in  importance  come  the  Falls  just 
named.  Eagle  Peak  and  the  Yosemite  Falls,  and  Cloud’s  Rest  (this  last 
tor  the  more  energetic).  No  one  should  fail  to  see  the  sunrise  reflected 
in  Mirror  Lake,  a sight  which  can  be  included  in  any  of  the  ordinary  daily 


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Wawona. 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


101.  Route.  575 


excursions.  The  charges  for  horses,  mules,  carriages  and  guides  are  reason- 
able, and  are  fixed  by  the  Board  of  Commissioners  (tariff  on  application 
at  the  hotel).  The  roads  on  the  floor  of  the  Valley  are  good,  and  the 
mountain-trails  are  as  a rule  excellent  bridle-paths,  though  nervous  persons, 
or  those  inclined  to  dizziness,  may  find  some  of  them  rather  trying  to  ride 
down.  In  this  case,  however,  it  is  easy  to  dismount  and  go  on  foot,  letting 
the  mule  follow.  The  Guides  ($  3)  are  usually  courteous  and  obliging,  but 
do  not  compare  in  intelligence  or  knowledge  of  the  country  with  the  best 
Swiss  guides.  The  trails  are  so  unmistakable  that  their  functions  are  mainly 
confined  to  looking  after  the  horses. 

Bibliography.  The  standard  work  on  the-  Yosemite  is  the  ‘Yosemite 
Guide-book’’  by  Prof.  J.  D.  Whitney  (published  in  three  sizes,  but  at  present 
unfortunately  out  of  print).  See  also  J.  M.  Hutchings'*  ‘Yosemite  Valley  and 
Big  Trees’’,  and  D.  J.  Foley'' s ‘Yosemite;  Souvenir  and  Guide’.  Excellent 
maps  of  the  Yosemite  Valley  have  been  published  by  the  U.  S.  Corps  of 
Engineers  (Wheeler  Survey)  and.the  Geological  Survey  of  California.  Good 
photographs  may  be  obtained  from  Taber  & Co.,  the  Sunset  Photo  & Engraving 
Co.,  and  R.  J.  Waters,  at  San  Francisco,  t)r  from  George  Fiske,  in  the  Valley 
itself.  — The  botanist  will  find  the  Yosemite  Valley  a place  of  great  interest, 
and  the  number  and  variety  of  its  wild  flowers  are  especially  remarkable.  The 
singular  ( Sar codes  sanguinea).,  elsewhere  rare,  is  frequently  found 

in  or  near  the  Yosemite  in  May  and  June.  It  has  the  form  of  a bright  scarlet 
column,  3-12  inches  high,  and  grows  on  the  edge  of  snow  drifts  or  in  ground 
recently  covered  with  snow.  Good  shooting  and  fishing  may  also  be  obtained. 

According  to  tlie  present  time-tahles  the  train  (through-sleeper 
from  San  Francisco  at  11.25  p.m.  to  Raymond)  leaves  Berenda  (see 
p.  564)  early  in  the  morning  and  runs  towards  the  E.  to  (22  M.) 
Raymond  (hotel).  The  stages,  in  which  the  seats  we  are  to  retain 
till  we  reach  our  destination  are  assigned  to  us  by  number,  leave 
Raymond  about  6.45  a.m.  [After  May  1st  a ‘Special  Limited  Stage’ 
leaves  Raymond  at  6 a.m.,  arriving  at  the  Yosemite  at  6 p.m.  of  the 
same  day.]  The  first  part  of  the  drive  is  comparatively  uninteresting, 
as  well  as  hot  and  dusty  in  summer;  it  is  therefore  hoped  that  the 
railway  may  be  extended  to  Ahwanee  (see  below).  Beyond  (12  M.) 
Grab  Gulch  we  are  accompanied  for  some  time  by  a long  ‘flume’  for 
bringing  timber  down  the  mountains.  To  the  right  is  a Gold  Mine, 
worked  by  electric  power. 

20 M.  Ahwanee  {Hotel.,  $3,  R.  $ 1)  is  the  luncheon-station.  — The 
scenery  now  improves.  Look-out  Point  commands  a fine  retrospect, 
extending  over  the  plain  to  the  coast-hills.  The  timber  along  the 
road  is  striking,  including  sug3iT-'pines  (Pinus  LambertianaJ^  yellow 
pines  (Pinus  ponder osa)^  silver  firs  (Abies  magnifica),  cedars  (Libo- 
cedrus  decurrens)  and  oaks,  besides  pretty  blossoming  trees  like  the 
dogwood  ( Cornus  Florida).,  buckeyefAescw^us  Californica),  and  Cali- 
fornia lilac  f Ceanothus  integerrimus).  The  curiously  twisted  and  red- 
trunked manzanita  ( Arctostaphylos  glauca)  is  also  abundant. 

40  M.  Wawona  or  Big  Tree  Station  (3925  ft. ; Hotel,  $ 3-4,  S., 
R.,  & B.  $31/2)5  usual  halting-place  for  the  night  (reached  about 
6 p.m.),  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  S.  fork  of  the  Merced  River 
(p.  576)  and  forms  pleasant  headquarters  for  a prolonged  stay.  The 
principal  point  of  interest  in  the  vicinity  is  the  Mariposa  Grove  of 
Big  Trees,  8 M.  to  the  S.W.,  usually  visited  by  Yosemite  travellers 
on  their  way  out  of  the  valley  (additional  cost,  $2).  — The  roads 


576  Route  101.  YOSEMITE  YALLEY.  Inspiration  Point. 

from  Merced  (p.  564)  and  Madera  (p.  564),  "by  wMcli  a few  visitors 
approach  the  Yosemite,  join  ours  at  Wawona. 

The  "Mariposa  Grove  of  Big  Trees  (6500  ft.),  so-called  from  its  situ- 
ation in  Mariposa  (‘butterfly'')  county,  occupies  a tract  of  land,  4 sq.  M.  in 
area,  reserved  as  a State  Park,  and  consists  of  two  distinct  groves,  V2 
apart.  The  Lower  Grove^  which  we  reach  first,  contains  about  100  fine 
specimens  of  the  Sequoia  giganiea  (see  p.  501),  including  the  ‘Grizzly  Giant’, 
the  largest  of  all,  with  a circumference  of  94  ft.  and  a diameter  of  31  ft. 
Its  main  limb,  200  ft.  from  the  ground,  is  6V2  ft.  in  diameter.  In  ascend- 
ing to  the  Upper  Grove ^ which  contains  365  big  trees,  the  road  goes 
through  a tunnel,  10  ft.  high  and  91/2  ft.  wide  (at  the  bottom),  cut  directly 
through  the  heart  of  a living  Sequoia,  27  ft.  in  diameter.  The  road  passes 
close  to  nearly  all  the  largest  trees  in  the  Grove,  the  names  and  dimen- 
sions of  which  will  be  supplied  by  the  driver.  About  10  of  the  trees  ex- 
ceed 250  ft.  in  height  (highest  272  ft.)  and  about  20  trees  have  a circum- 
ference of  over  60  ft.,  three  of  these  being  over  90  ft.  The  Calaveras  Grove 
(see  p.  501)  has  taller  trees  than  any  in  the  Mariposa  Grove,  but  the  latter 
has  those  of  greatest  circumference.  Many  of  the  oldest  trees  have  been 
marred  and  reduced  in  size  by  fire.  The  wood  of  the  Sequoia  giganiea.^  like 
that  of  the  Sequoia  sempervirens  (redwood;  comp.  p.  555),  is  easily 
worked,  durable,  and  susceptible  of  a high  polish.  Small  articles  made 
of  it  may  be  bought  at  the  pavilion  in  the  Upper  Grove. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Wawona  Hotel  rises  Signal  Peak  (7860  ft.),  the  top 
of  which  (7  M.)  may  be  reached  by  a good  road.  The  *View  embraces 
the  San  Joaquin  Valley  (p.  564)  and  innumerable  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada. — The  "Ghilnooalna  Falls  (a  cascade  of  2000  ft.),  2 M.  to  the  N.h,  are 
reached  by  a good  bridle-path  and  will  repay  a visit. 

Good  fishing  and  shooting  (with  some  chance  for  a bear)  are  obtain- 
able round  Wawona.  — Close  to  the  hotel  is  the  Studio  of  Mr.  Ihomas 
Hill.^  well  known  for  his  pictures  of  the  Yosemite.  Dried  flowers,  ex- 
quisitely mounted  by  Mrs.  Hill,  Jr.,  may  be  bought  here. 

Beyond  Wawona  the  scenery  traversed  is  of  a very  high  order. 
The  road  mounts  rapidly,  commanding  a series  of  grand  views,  and 
finally  attains  an  elevation  of  6500  ft.  The  descent  is  equally  rapid. 
At  (53  M.)  Eleven  Mile  Station  the  horses  are  changed.  At  (55  M.) 
Chinquapin  Station  the  direct  road  to  Glacier  Point  diverges  to  the 
right  (see  p.  580).  About  6 M.  farther  on  we  reach  ^^Inspiration 
Point  (5600  ft.),  where  we  obtain  the  first  view  of  the  valley,  with 
El  Capitan  to  the  left,  Cathedral  Spires  and  Sentinel  Dome  to  the 
right,  and  the  Half  Dome  and  North  Dome  in  the  background. 
Earther  on  we  descend  a winding  road,  with  rapid  turns,  ‘hair-pin’ 
bends,  and  glorious  views  of  the  Valley.  On  reaching  the  floor  of 
the  Valley,  we  skirt  the  Merced  River  and  pass  near  the  foot  of  the 
Bridal  Veil  Fall  (right,  p,  579),  while  views  of  the  Virgins  Tears 
and  (farther  on)  of  the  Yosemite  Falls  (p.  578)  are  obtained  to  the 
left.  The  Coulterville  and  Big  Oak  Flat  roads  come  in  from  the  N. 
and  run  along  the  other  (N.)  bank  of  the  river.  — 67  M.  Yosemite 
Village  (4000  ft.),  with  the  Sentinel  Hotel  ($  2^/2-4)  and  the  office 
of  the  Guardian  of  the  Yalley  (see  p.  577).  The  stage  arrives  here 
about  1 p.m.  (one-day  express-stage,  see  p.  575). 

The  ’‘^Yosemite  Valley  (‘full-grown  grizzly  bear’ ; pron.‘Yosemity’) 
is  a gorge  or  canon  on  the  W.  slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  traversed 
by  the  Merced  River  and  enclosed  by  rocky  and  almost  vertical  walls. 


El  Capitan. 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY.  101.  Boute.  577 


The  nearly  level  floor  of  the  valley  is  8 M.  long  and  about  3850  ft. 
above  sea-level,  while  the  enclosing  walls  are  3000-5000  ft.  higher. 
The  width  between  the  walls  varies  from  ^2  M.  to  2 M.  At  several 
points  huge  waterfalls  are  precipitated  over  the  face  of  the  rocky 
walls  into  the  valley  below.  The  park-like  floor  of  the  valley  is 
carpeted  with  fine  flower-studded  grass  and  freely  sprinkled  with 
beautiful  trees  and  shrubs,  while  the  emerald-green  Merced  flows 
through  it  in  alternate  reaches  of  calm  and  turmoil. 

‘The  principal  features  of  the  Yosemite,  and  those  by  which  it  is 
distinguished  from  all  other  known  valleys,  are:  first,  the  near  approach 
to  verticality  of  its  walls 5 second,  their  great  height,  not  only  absolutely, 
but  as  compared  with  the  width  of  the  Valley  itself  ^ and  finally,  the  very 
small  amount  of  talus  or  debris  at  the  base  of  these  gigantic  cliffs.  These 
are  the  great  characteristics  of  the  Yosemite,  throughout  its  whole  length; 
but,  besides  these,  there  are  many  other  striking  peculiarities,  and 
features  both  of  sublimity  and  beauty,  which  can  hardly  be  surpassed,  if 
equalled,  by  those  of  any  mountain  valleys  in  the  world'  (Whitney). 

The  visitor  standing  on  the  floor  of  the  valley  sees  no  outlet  in  any 
direction  and  feels  curiously  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  Per- 
haps no  single  valley  in  Switzerland  combines  in  so  limited  a space  such 
a wonderful  variety  of  grand  and  romantic  scenery. 

The  formation  of  the  valley  was  at  first  ascribed  to  erosion  or 
even  to  glacial  action;  but  Prof.  Whitney  has  proved  to  the  satis- 
faction of  most  authorities  that  it  was  most  probably  due  to  a mighty 
convulsion  of  nature,  caused  by  the  subsidence  of  a limited  area, 
marked  by  lines  of  ‘fault’  or  fissure,  crossing  each  other  nearly  at 
right  angles.  The  ragged  masses  of  rock  that  fell  into  the  chasm 
were  gradually  covered  up  by  the  action  of  the  river,  ultimately 
producing  the  smooth  level  floor  that  the  valley  now  presents.  The 
geological  formations  are  entirely  granitic. 

The  Yosemite  Valley  was  first  seen  by  white  men,  so  far  as  is 
known,  in  1851,  when  a small  party  of  soldiers  came  upon  it  sud- 
denly when  in  pursuit  of  Indians.  The  first  settlement  was  made 
in  1857,  and  other  buildings  were  soon  erected  as  the  attractions 
of  the  Valley  became  known  and  tourists  began  to  crowd  in.  In 
1864  an  Act  of  Congress  was  passed,  handing  the  valley  itself, 
with  the  adjacent  territory  for  a distance  of  about  2 M.  all  round 
it,  to  the  State  of  California  for  the  purposes  of  a State  Park. 
This  park  is  managed  by  the  Governor  and  a board  of  State  Com- 
missioners, and  these  are  represented  on  the  spot  by  the  Guardian 
of  the  Valley,  whose  office  is  near  the  Sentinel  Hotel..  The  State 
Park  is  enclosed  by  the  Yosemite  National  Park^  which  takes  in  the 
entire  watershed  of  the  rivers  of  the  valley.  About  a score  of  the  so- 
called  Digger  Indians  (Shoshonians),  who  originally  occupied  the 
valley,  still  survive.  They  are  of  the  lowest  type  of  red  men,  suppor- 
ting themselves  partly  on  roots  and  acorns  and  partly  by  fishing. 

Perhaps  the  most  striking  object  in  the  valley,  to  most  visitors,  is 
the  cliff  known  as  *E1  Capitan  (7012  ft.),  which  rises  prominently  as 
the  N.  W.  buttress  of  the  canon.  It  is  not  by  any  means  the  highest  part 
of  the  canon-walls,  though  rising  to  a height  of  3300  ft.  above  the 

Eaedekee’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  37 


578  Route  101.  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


South  Dome. 


floor  of  the  valley,  but  produces  its  effect  by  its  dominating  position^ 
its  majestic  form,  the  bareness  and  verticality  of  its  face,  and  the 
narrowness  of  the  valley  in  front  of  it.  It  has  two  faces,  one  look- 
ing W.  and  the  other  S.,  which  join  each  other  almost  at  right  ang- 
les. The  summit  cannot  be  reached  without  a long  and  arduous 
journey,  which  is  seldom  undertaken.  The  Bibhon  Fall  or  the  Fir- 
gins  Tears.,  about‘2000  ft.  high,  descends  over  the  cliffs  just  to  the 
W.  of  El  Gapitan.  It  is  a beautiful  fall  in  the  early  part  of  the  sea- 
son, but  loses  most  of  its  water  in  summer.  — To  the  E.  of  El  Gapitan 
are  the  fine  peaks  named  the  Three  Brothers,  the  highest  of  which, 
known  also  as  Eagle  Peak  (7751  ft.),  is  a favourite  view-point  (see 
p.  580).  — In  the  recess  to  the  E.  of  Eagle  Peak,  near  the  centre  of 
the  valley,  are  the  '^^Yosemite  Falls,  where  the  creek  of  that  name 
descends  to  the  valley  in  three  leaps,  with  a total  height  of  2500  ft. 
The  Upper  Fall  has  a vertical  descent  of  1436  ft. ; the  Middle  Fall 
consists  of  a series  of  cascades  with  a total  descent  of  626  ft. ; while 
the  Lower  Fall  is  400  ft.  high.  This  is  the  highest  waterfall  in  the 
world  with  anything  like  the  same  body  of  water.  At  the  top  it  is 
about  35  ft.  wide.  Seen  at  its  best,  this  fall  is  certainly  one  of  the 
grandest  features  of  the  valley;  but  it  dwindles  considerably  as  the 
season  advances.  A splendid  ice-cone,  500  ft.  high,  forms  at  the  foot 
of  the  Upper  Fall  in  winter.  Trail  to  the  top,  see  p.  580.  — The 
projection  to  the  E.  of  the  Yosemite  Falls  is  named  Yosemite  Point 
(6897  ft.)  and  commands  a splendid  view  (comp.  p.  581).  The  ravine 
to  the  E.  of  this  is  known  as  Indian  Canon.  The  w^all  of  rock  on 
the  other  side  of  Indian  Ganon  is  known  as  the  Eoyal  Arches,  so 
called  from  the  semicircular  cavities  on  its  front.  Adjoining  these,  at 
the  angle  formed  by  the  beginning  of  the  Tenaya  Ganon  (see  below), 
rises  the  Washington  Tower  or  Column  (5856  ft),  which  is  itself  a 
cub  or  spur  of  the  huge  North  Dome  (7525  ft.). 

We  have  now,  in  our  survey,  reached  the  head  of  the  Yosemite 
Valley  proper,  where  it  splits  into  the  three  narrow  canons  of  the 
Tenaya  or  N.  fork  of  the  Merced  to  the  N.,  the  Merced  proper  in 
the  middle,  and  the  Illilouette  or  S.  fork  of  the  Merced  to  the  S. 
(comp.  p.  581).  To  the  S.  of  the  Tenaya  Ganon,  opposite  the  N. 
Dome  and  forming  the  E.  terminus  of  the  Yosemite  Valley,  rises 
the  singularly  shaped  **South.  or  Half  Dome  (8927  ft.),  which  dis- 
putes with  El  Gapitan  the  place  of  the  most  remarkable  single  feature 
of  the  valley.  ‘It  strikes  even  the  most  casual  observer  as  a new  re- 
velation in  mountain  forms ; its  existence  would  be  considered  an 
impossibility  if  it  were  not  there  before  us  in  all  its  reality ; it  is  a 
unique  thing  in  mountain  scenery,  and  nothing  even  approaching  it 
can  be  found  except  in  the  Sierra  Nevada The  Half  Dome 
was  first  ascended  in  1875  by  a man  named  Anderson,  who  scaled 
the  summit  on  the  S.E.  side  by  means  of  a rope  attached  to  pegs 
driven  into  the  rock.  Anderson’s  ladder  has,  however,  been  allowed 
to  go  to  ruin,  and  at  present  the  top  of  the  Half  Dome  is  inacces- 


Glackr  Point. 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY.  101.  Eotite.  579 


sible.  — To  the  S.W.  of  the  Half  Dome,  at  the  angle  formed  by  the 
Tenaya  and  Merced  Canons,  rises  Grizzly  Peak  (6207  ft.),  a grim, 
wooded,  and  nearly  inaccessible  summit. 

Passing  over  the  Merced  Canon,  which  enshrines  the  Vernal  and 
Nevada  Waterfalls  (see  p.  580),  we  now  come  to  the  S.  wall  of  the 
Yosemite  Valley,  the  first  (easternmost)  peak  of  which  is  **Glacier 
Point  (7297  ft.),  the  most  frequently  visited, ’and  in  many  respects 
the  finest,  of  the  points  of  vantage  from  which  to  view  the  valley. 
A description  of  the  trail  to  it  and  the  view  from  it  is  given  at  p.  580. 
— For  about  1 M.  to  the  W.  of  Glacier  Point  the  wall  of  the  valley 
runs  nearly  in  a straight  line  and  is  almost  wholly  covered  with 
talus  or  debris.  Above  this,  but  a little  back  from  the  valley,  rises 
the  Sentinel  Dome  (8205  ft.),  which  commands  a very  extensive 
view  (see  p.  580).  The  front- wall  just  mentioned  ends  on  the  W.  in 
the  ^Sentinel  Kock  (7005  ft.),  the  most  conspicuous  rock  on  the  S. 
face  of  the  valley.  Its  ascent  is  not  difficult  nor  dangerous  for  clim- 
bers. — Next  in  order,  as  we  proceed  towards  the  W.,  come  the  slen- 
der Cathedral  Spires  (5934  ft.),  adjoined  by  the  imposing  ^Cathedral 
Eocks  (8831  ft.),  opposite  El  Capitan.  Over  the  W.  side  of  the  lower 
part  of  these  rocks  pours  the  *Bridal  Veil  Fall,  which  some  visitors 
deem  the  finest  in  the  valley.  It  has  a clear  vertical  fall  of  about 
630  ft.,  with  a width  of  50-70  ft.  The  name  is  derived  from  the 
effect  on  it  by  the  wind,  which  often  makes  it  flutter  like  a white 
veil.  Like  most  of  the  other  falls,  it  loses  much  of  its  grandeur  as 
the  summer  advances.  A fine  rainbow  is  generally  visible  on  this 
fall  between  4 and  6 p.m. 

The  above  enumeration  includes  most  of  the  principal  points  in 
the  valley  itself  or  in  its  immediate  walls.  Below  follows  a short 
description  of  the  routes  leading  to  these  as  well  as  to  other  points 
not  included  in  the  valley  itself  but  generally  visited  thence.  The 
hotel  (p.  576)  is  taken  as  starting-point.  For  information  as  to  horses, 
guides,  and  so  on,  comp.  p.  575. 

(1.)  "Lower  Round  Drive  (12-20  .M.),  on  the  floor  of  the  Valley  (fare 
$21/2  each  5 inch  Mirror  Lake  and  Cascades,  $31/2).  This  drive  gives  a 
very  good  general  idea  of  tbe  Yosemite  wonders,  but,  as  most  of  tbem 
are  almost  as  well  seen  on  entering  the  valley  by  stage,  it  need  not  be 
taken  by  those  whose  time  is  limited.  The  points  visited  include  the 
foot  of  the  Yosemite  and  Bridal  Veil  Falls  (see  p.  578  and  above),  and  it  is 
well  to  time  the  drive  so  as  to  see  the  afternoon  rainbow  on  the  latter 
(see  above).  The  Cascade  Falls  are  about  31/2  M.  below  the  Bridal  Veil  Fall, 
beyond  the  limits  of  the  valley  proper.  Mirror  Lake  (see  p.  581)  is  about 
3 M.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  hotel. 

(2.)  Glacier  Point  (51/2  M.  •,  horse  $ 3).  The  Glacier  Point  trail  (well- 
made  but  somewhat  trying  on  horseback  for  those  liable  to  giddiness,  esp. 
in  descending  5 quite  safe  and  not  very  steep  for  walking)  begins  near  the 
foot  of  Sentinel  Rock,  not  far  from  the  hotel.  The  trail  ascends  the  steep 
face  of  the  cliff  in  zigzags.  Union  Point.,  about  two-thirds  of  the  way  up, 
commands  a fine  view.  Close  by  is  the  singular  Agassiz  Column.  ""Glacier 
Point  (7297  ft.),  marked  by  a flagstaff,  where  an  iron  rail  has  been 
fixed  between  two  rocks,  commands  a splendid  view  of  most  of  the 
Valley,  the  floor  of  which  lies  almost  perfectly  sheer  below  us.  A little 
way  from  the  edge  of  the  cliff  is  the  small  and  unpretending,  but  fairly 

37:5: 


580  Route  101.  YOSEMITE  VALLEY.  Vernal  Falls. 


comfortable  Glacier  Point  Hotel  ($3,  meal  $!),_  tbe  porcb  of  which  com- 
mands a magnificent  ""View  of  the  Merced  Canon,  with  the  Vernal  and 
Nevada  Falls  and  the  Cap  of  Liberty,  the  Half  Dome,  and  the  High  Sierra.^ 
including  (named  from  right  to  left)  Mt.  Starr  King,  Red  Mt.,  Gray  Mt., 
Mt.  Clark,  Mt.  Bitter  (in  the  extreme  distance),  Mt.  Florence,  Mt.  McClure, 
Tenaya  Peak,  and  Mt.  Lyell  (p.  582).  Nearly  every  evening  a fine  display 
of  fireworks  (announced  by  a horn)  is  given  here  by  throwing  burning 
brands,  etc.,  over  the  cliff  (well  seen  from  below).  — Glacier  Point  is 
accessible,  for  those  who  can  neither  ride  nor  walk  up  the  trail,  by 
carriage-road  from  Chinquapin  (seep.  576),  but  this  roundabout  journey  takes 
about  a day  (5^/2  hrs.  each  way)  instead  of  4-5  hrs.  It  may  also  be  reached 

Nevada  Fall  (see  below),  and  those  who  spend  the*  night  here  may 
return  by  this  route.  Many  visitors  now  ascend  from  the  Sentinel  Hotel 
to  Glacier  Point  and  drive  thence  to  (14  M.;  5V2  hrs.)  Wawona  (p.  575). 
— The  top  of  Sentinel  Dome  (p.  579)  is  about  11/4  M.  from  Glacier  Point 
and  is  easily  reached  thence  on  foot  or  horseback  (no  extra  charge).  From 
Sentinel  Dome  the  excursion  may  be  extended  to  the  (IV2  M»)  so-called 
■Fissures  (horse  75  c.  extra). 

(3.)  **Vernal  and  Nevada  Falls  (51/2  M.  •,  horse  $3).  The  excellent 
Anderson  Trails  which  as  far  as  Vernal  Fall  is  so  broad  and  easy  as  to  give 
no  cause  for  nervousness,  begins  about  21/4  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Sentinel 
Ho.  and  winds  along  the  flank  of  Grizzly  Peak  (p.  579),  with  the  beautiful 
Merced  River  rushing  downwards  on  the  right.  A good  distant  view  is  ob- 
tained (right)  of  the  Illilouette  Falls  (p.  581).  About  1/4  M.  below  the  Vernal 
Fall  we  cross  the  river  by  a bridge,  which  commands  one  of  the  best  views 
of  it.  Beyond  the  bridge  is  the  so-called  Register  Rock,  where  the  trail 
forks,  the  left  branch  leading  to  the  flat  Lady  Franklin  Rock,  near  the  foot 
of  the  Vernal  Fall.  The  (2  M.)  * Vernal  Fall  has  a vertical  descent  of  350  ft., 
with  a width  of  70-80  ft.  Behind  rises  the  picturesque  '^Cap  of  Liberty  (7060  ft.). 
We  may  now  ascend  to  the  top  of  the  fall  by  an  easy  path  protected  by 
an  iron  chain.  From  Register  Rock  (see  above)  the  trail  (now  narrower 
and  steeper)  makes  a wide  sweep  to  the  right  before  reaching  the  top 
of  Vernal  Fall,  where  the  flat  rock,  with  a natural  parapet,  permits  an 
approach  to  the  verge  of  the  water.  Just  above  is  the  beautiful  -^Emerald 
Pool.  The  trail  recrosses  the  river  about  halfway  between  the  top  of  the 
Vernal  Fall  and  the  bottom  of  the  Nevada  Fall.  Above  the  bridge  is  the 
■'Diamond  Cascade  and  below  it  is  the  -'Silver  Apron.  We  soon  obtain  a 
fine  view  of  the  (33/4  M.)  superb  ""Nevada  Fall,  which  has  a slightly  sloping 
descent  of  about  600  ft.  and  ranks  with  the  Yosemite  Falls.  — Many  visit- 
ors turn  at  the  foot  of  the  Nevada  Fall,  but  those  who  have  time  and 
strength  should  certainly  follow  the  steep  trail  to  (3/4  M.)  its  top. 

The  trail  to  the  Little  Yosemite  and  Cloud's  Rest  (see  p.  581)  diverges  to 
the  left  before  we  reach  the  bridge  above  the  falls. 

Beyond  the  bridge  the  trail  goes  on,  along  the  flank  of  Mt.  Starr  King 
(9197  ft.),  to  (12  M. ; 17  M.  from  the  hotel ; horse  $ 6)  Glacier  Point  (see 
p.  581)  5 and  this  route  is  recommended  to  those  who  have  time.  The 
night  may  be  spent  at  Glacier  Point  Hotel  (see  above).  This  trail  crosses 
the  Illilouette  just  above  the  falls  (see  p.  581). 

(4.)  *Eagle  Peak  and  Yosemite  Falls  (6-672  M.  ^ horse  $ 3).  To  reach 
Eagle  Peak  trail,  a steep  but  well-made  bridle-path  (not  so  dizzy  as  the 
Glacier  Point  trail),  we  cross  the  bridge  behind  the  Sentinel  Hotel  (p.  576), 
turn  to  the  left  a little  farther  on,  and  cross  the  bridge  over  the  creek 
descending  from  the  Yosemite  Fall.  The  trail  diverges  to  the  right  about 
V4.M.  beyond  the  last-named  bridge,  ascends  round  and  up  the  ledges 
adjoining  the  Falls  canon,  and  then  descends  to  (IV2  hr.)  a hitching-place 
near  the  foot  of  the  *'‘TJpper  Yosemite  Fall  (see  p.  578).  We  clamber  over  the 
rocks  and  approach  as  near  the  fall  as  we  care  to  penetrate  through  the 
clouds  of  spray,  gaining  an  overwhelming  impression  of  the  stupendous 
power  and  volume  of  this  marvellous  waterfall.  (Continuing  to  follow  the 
trail,  we  keep  to  the  left,  where  a path  to  the  right  diverges  to  the  top  of 
the  Yosemite  Fall  and  again  to  the  left  at  the  next  fork,  where  the  path  to 
the  right  leads  to  Lake  Tenaya  (comp.  p.  582).  The  Wiew  from  Eagle  Peak 


Oto lid's  Rest. 


YOSEMITE  VALLEY.  101.  Route.  581 


(p.  578}  extends  farther  to  the  W.  than  that  from  Glacier  Point  and  includes 
some  peaks  of  the  High  Sierra.  — If  time  allows,  a visit  to  the  top  of  the 
Yosemite  Fall  (see  above)  should  certainly  be  combined  with  this  trip. 
The  'View  of  the  fall  from  above  is  as  impressive  in  its  way  as  that 
from  below.  A large  boulder  about  12  yds.  below  the  bridge  above  the 
fall,  on  the  left  (E.)  side  of  the  stream,  shakes  or  rather  jerks  perceptiblv 
at  irregular  intervals,  as  may  be  felt  by  leaning  against  it.  This  movement 
is  probably  caused  by  the  water  of  the  fall  entering  some  cavern  far  below. 
The  trail  crossing  the  above-mentioned  bridge  leads  to  Yosemite  Point  578), 
which  commands  a view  similar  to  that  from  Eagle  Point.  If  time  and 
strength  do  not  allow  a visit  to  both,  the  top  of  the  Yosemite  Falls  and  Yose- 
mite Point  should  be  preferred  to  Eagle  Peak. 

(5.)  -Mirror  Lake  (carr.  $ 1),  a small  piece  of  water,  about  4M.  to  the 
N.E.  of  the  Sentinel  Hotel,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tenaya  Canon,  is  visited 
for  its  wonderful  reflections  of  the  North  and  South  Domes  and  Mt.  Wat- 
kins. Its  surface  is  generally  most  unruffled  early  in  the  morning,  and  visitors 
usually  go  to  see  the  sun  rise  in  it  over  the  Half  Dome  (about  8 a.m.  in  sum- 
mer). The  reflections  are  also  good  .by  moonlight. 

(6.)  Cloud’s  Rest  (9-10  M.  \ horse  $ 5).  This  excursion  is  one  in  high 
favour  among  the  more  energetic  visitors  to  the  Valley.  It  is  accomplished 
in  one  day  (12hrs.).  The  trail  is  good  and  not  difficult,  but  the  upper 
part  of  it  is  apt  to  be  buried  in  snow  in  the  early  part  of  the  season.  — 
From  the  hotel  to  the  point  where  the  trail  diverges  from  that  to  the  top 
of  the  Nevada  Fall,  see  p.  580.  A little  farther  on  the  trail  to  the  so-called 
Little  Yosemite  (6000  ft.)  diverges  to  the  right  from  the  Cloud’s  Rest  trail. 
Cloud’s  Rest  (9912  ft.)  commands  a splendid  *View  of  the  walls  of  the 
Yosemite  Valley  and  of  the  High  Sierra.  Immediately  to  the  S.W.  is  the 
Half  Dome^  to  the  N. , across  the  Tenaya  Canon,  rises  Mt.  Watkins  (see 
below).  Among  the  most  prominent  peaks  of  the  Sierra  (named  from  N. 
to  S.)  are  Mt.  Hoffman,  Tenaya  Peak  (with  Tenaya  Lake  belowit) , the 
Cathedral,  Mt.  Dana,  Mt.  Gibbs,  Mt.  Lyell,  Mt.  Clark,  and  Mt.  Starr  King 
(see  p.  580). 

(7.)  Falls  of  the  Illilouette  (21/2  M.).  The  falls  of  the  Illilouette 
ov JYululaweak  may  be  reached  by  a somewhat  rough  scramble  up  the 
canon  of  the  Illilouette,  opening  to  the  S.  of  the  Merced  Canon  (comp, 
p.  579).  The  total  height  is  about  600  ft.  ^ the  main  fall  is  400  ft.  high. 
They  are  also  passed  on  the  trail  from  Nevada  Fall  to  Glacier  Point  (see 
p.  580).  Most  visitors  will  content  themselves  with  the  distant  view  from 
the  Vernal  Fall  trail  (see  p.  580).  A good  echo  is  returned  from  Echo 
Wall^  in  the  Illilouette  Canon. 

(8.)  Mt.  Watkins  (8200  ft.)  rises  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Tenaya  Canon 
and  is  sometimes  ascended  from  the  N. 

Among  the  longer  excursions  in  the  High  Sierra,  which  can  be  made 
by  those  who  prolong  their  stay  in  the  Yosemite  Valley,  are  those  named 
below.  Guides  are  necessary  in  all  cases,  and  a little  experience  in  moun- 
tain-climbing is  desirable  for  some  of  the  ascents.  Rough  acommodation  for 
the  night  can  sometimes  be  procured,  but  in  other  cases  camping  out  is 
necessary.  — About  12  M.  to  the  N.  of  Yosemite  is  the  -Canon  of  the 
Tuolumne  (four  syllables),  a stream  which,  in  this  part  of  its  course, 
runs  nearly  parallel  with  the  Merced  and  is  very  attractive  from  the  beauty 
and  variety  of  its  waterfalls  and  the  grandeur  of  its  overhanging  cliffs. 
The  upper  part  of  the  canon  can  be  easily  reached  on  horseback  by  the 
Virginia  Creek  Trail.,  which  leaves  the  trail  to  Mono  Lake  at  Tenaya  Lake 
(see  p.  582)  and  soon  brings  us  to  the  first  and  uppermost  of  three 
picturesque  groups  of  cascades,  with  a total  descent  of  2000ft.  within 
IV2  M.  (comp.  p.  578).  About  20  M.  lower  down  is  the  -Hetch-Hetchy,  a 
remarkable  counterpart  of  the  Yosemite,  on  a somewhat  smaller  scale,  but 
closely  resembling  it  in  its  main  features,  with  similar  high  cliffs  and  fine 
waterfalls.  It  cannot  easily  be  reached  by  descending  the  canon,  but  is 
approached  by  the  Tioga  Road.,  running  N.  from  Crocker  s Station  on  the  Big 
Oak  Flat  Road  (comp.  p.  574).  From  Crocker’s  to  (56  M.)  the  Hetch-Hetchy 


682  Route  102, 


CHICO. 


Valley^  a stage  runs  during  June,  July,  and  August^  saddle-horses  and  ve- 
hicles can  he  hired  at  Crocker’s.  Those  who  make  this  trip  must  provide  their 
own  food  and  camp-accommodation.  — Lake  Tenaya,  18  M.  N.E.  from  the 
Sentinel  Hoteh  via  the  Eagle  Peak  trail  (comp.  p.  580),  reached  also  from 
Crocker’s  (p.  081),  lies  near  the  head  of  the  Tenaya  Canon,  in  the  midst 
of  a grand  mountain  amphitheatre.  Tenaya  Peak^  on  its  E.  side,  may  he 
ascended  with  little  difficulty.  Beyond  this  lake  the  trail  (to  the  left  the 
Virginia  Creek  trail,  see  above)  goes  on  to  the  (5  M.)  "Tuolumne  Meadows 
(85C^ft.),  at  the  head  of  the  Tuolumne  Canon  (p.  531).  The  scenery  here 
is  very  fine.  Near  the  head  of  the  Meadows  are  the  (5  M.)  Soda  Springs^  a 
favourite  camping-ground  for  those  making  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Dana  or  Mt. 
Lyell  (see  helow).  The  trail  goes  on  to  (20  M.)  Mono  Lake.  — Mt.  Bana 
(13,225  ft. ; there  and  hack,  3-4  days),  the  loftiest  peak  near  the  Yosemite, 
commands  a very  extensive  view  and  is  generally  ascended  from  Soda 
Springs  (see  above  ^ no  particular  difficulty).  — Mt.  Lyell  (13,217  ft.)  is 
more  difficult  and  should  not  be  attempted  except  by  experts  (3-4^  days). 
It  is  also  ascended  from  Soda  Springs.  — Mt.  Hoffmann  (10,870  ft.  *,  "View) 
may  be  ascended  from  Tenaya  Lake  in  half-a-day.  — Visitors  to  the  Little 
Yosemite  (see  p.  580)  may  go  through  the  gorge  at  its  head,  passing  the 
Silver  Chain  Cascade.^  to  the  Lost  Valley  (there  and  back  in  one  day). 


102.  From  San  Francisco  to  Portland. 

772  M.  Southern  Pacific  Railway  (‘Shasta  Route’)  in  36  hrs.  (fare  $ 20^ 
sleeper  S 5).  This  line  traverses  some  fine  scenery  and  affords  good  views  of 
ML  Shasta  (p.  583)^  some  of  the  engineering  difficulties  were  very  great. 

Steamers  of  the  Oregon  R.  R.  & Navigation  Co.  leave  San  Francisco 
every  5 days  for  Portland  (2  days ; fare  $ 16,  inch  berth  and  meals).  The 
voyage  is  a pleasant  one  and  usually  calm  in  summer. 

From  San  Francisco  to  (90  M.)  Sacramento  and  (108  M.)  Rose- 
ville Junction^  see  pp.  503-501.  Our  line  here  diverges  to  the  left 
from  that  to  Ogden  and  runs  to  the  N.,  ascending  the  valley  of  the 
Sacramento.^  which  flows  at  some  distance  to  the  left.  142  M.  Marys- 
ville (65  ft.),  a city  of  3497  inhab.,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Feather 
and  Yuha  Rivers.  To  the  left  rise  the  Marysville  Buttes  (1800-2100  ft.). 
At  (163  M.)  Biggs  (100  ft.)  we  cross  the  Feather  River.  186  M. 
Chico  (195  ft.;  2640  inhab.).  A fine  fruit-growing  country  is  tra- 
versed. Near  (213  M.)  Tehama  (220  ft.)  we  cross  the  Sacramento. 

Beyond  (260  M.)  Redding  (555  ft.),  near  the  head  of  the  Lower 
Sacramento  Valley,  we  enter  upon  a stretch  of  very  picturesque  scenery 
(observation- car),  where  the  train  crosses  the  winding  Sacramento 
18  times  and  threads  12  or  more  tunnels  in  80  M.  At  (269  M.)  Copley 
(600  ft.)  the  Indians  spear  salmon.  Between  (277  M.)  Rennet  (670  ft.) 
and  (282  M.)  Morley  (720  ft.)  the  Sacramento  is  joined  by  the  Pitt 
River.  To  the  right  rise  the  McCloud  Mts.  The  McCloud  River,  which 
flows^into  the  Pitt  River,  is  one  of  the  finest  trout-streams  in  California. 
298  M.  Delta  (1140  ft.),  a good  fishing-station.  Near  (306  M.)  Gibson 
(1390  ft.)  we  pass  through  fine  pine-forest.  To  the  left,  near  (320  M.) 
Castle  Crag  (2085  ft.;  Hotel,  $lV2-^)j  rise  the  imposing  *Castle 
Crags,  towering  to  a height  of  4000  ft.  above  the  river  and  forming 
a very  striking  piece  of  scenery.  Near  (324  M.)  Dunsmuir  (2195  ft.) 
we  obtain  our  first  view  of  the  huge  snow-clad  dome  of  Mt.  Shasta 
(in  front,  to  the  right).  325  M.  Upper  Soda  Springs  (2360  ft.;  Hotel, 


CRATER  LAKE. 


202.  Route.  583 


$ 2) ; 327  M.  Shasta  Springs ^ -with  the  pretty  Mosshrae  Falls,  A little 
farther  on  we  cross  the  Sacramento  for  the  last  time  and  ascend 
rapidly,  round  the  * Great  Bend^  to  (333  M.)  Mott  (3150  ft.).  — At 
(338  m.)  Sisson  (3555  ft.;  *Sisson  Tavern,  $ lV2-^V2)j  iri  Straw- 
berry Valley^  we  enjoy  a grand,  unimpeded  view  of  Mt.  Shasta.  The 
town  was  almost  totally  burned  down  in  June,  1904.  To  the  left 
rise  the  Scott  Mts.  {Mt.  Eddy^  9150  ft.). 

The  top  of  ""Mt.  Shasta  (14, MO  ft.)  is  12  M.  from  Sisson  and  may  he 
ascended  thence  (there  and  hack)  in  30-36  hrs.  (guides,  horses,  etc.,  at 
Sisson  Tavern 5 total  expense  $ 15-20  each).  The  night  is  spent  at  )Sisso7is 
Camp  (9000  ft.),  just  above  the  timher-line.  There  is  a Geodetic  Monument 
on  the  main  peak.  Mt.  Shasta  is  a huge  extinct  volcano,  and  its  volcanic 
character  is  clearly  discernible  in  the  Crater  or  W.  Peak  (12,900  ft.),  where 
there  is  a crater  V-i  M.  in  diameter  and  2500  ft.  deep.  Hot  springs  and 
solfataric  action  are  also  visible  near  the  top  of  the  main  peak.  The 
" View  from  the  summit  is  very  extensive. 

From  (341  M.)  Upton  a branch-line  runs  to  (18  M.)  McCloud^  a 
model  lumber  camp,  employing  about  750  men.  At  (345  M.)  Black 
Butte  Summit  (3900  ft.)  the  train  reaches  the  summit  of  the  pass 
across  the  N.  part  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  begins  its  descent.  To  the 
right  we  obtain  views  of  the  five  distinct  cones  of  Midr's  Peak  or 
Black  Butte  (6500  ft.).  The  trees  through  which  we  run  include  the 
sugar  pine  {Pinus  Lamhertiana ; with  cones  12-18  inches  long),  tlie 
yellow  pine  (P.  ponder osa)^  the  contorted  pine  (P.  contorta)^  the  cem- 
bra  pine  (P.  flexilis)^  and  the  nut  pine  (P.  Sahiniana;  cones  12  inches 
long  and  6 inches  thick).  355  M.  Edgewood  (2955  ft.)  commands 
a good  retrospect  of  Mt.  Shasta.  We  now  ascend  the  Shasta  Valley^ 
with  the  Shasta  River  at  some  distance  to  the  right.  From  (377  M.) 
Montague  (2540  ft.)  the  Siskiyou  Mts.  (7660  ft.)  are  visible  to  the 
left.  From  (389  M.)  Thrall  a branch-line  runs  to  (12  M.)  Klamath 
Springs  Station,  whence  stages  (fare  $2^/2)  P^Y  to  (^  M.)  Klamath 
Hot  Springs  (2700  ft. ; Hotel,  $ 2-2V2)j  at  the  junction  of  the  Klamath 
River  and  Shovel  Creek,  a beautifully  situated  health  and  pleasure 
resort,  with  mineral  springs  and  mud  baths  (efficacious  in  rheumat- 
ism, etc.).  Near  (395  M.)  Hornhrook  (2155  ft.)  we  cross  the  Klamath 
River  and  begin  to  ascend  the  Siskiyou  Mts.  (gradient  4: 100).  Beyond 
(404  M.)  Coles  (2905  ft.)  we  enter  Oregon  (‘Webfoot  State’).  The 
line  passes  through  a long  tunnel  just  before  reaching  the  summit  at 
(414  M.)  Siskiyou  (4130  ft.).  To  the  right  is  Pilot  Rock  (6430  ft.), 
the  S.  outpost  of  the  Cascade  Mts.  (p.  476).  — The  train  now  descends 
rapidly,  through  tunnels  and  around  curves,  into  Rogue  River  Valley, 
— 431  M.  Ashland  (1900  ft. ; 2634  inhab.).  Mt.  Pitt  (9760  ft.)  rises 
to  the  right.  — 446  M.  Medford  (1400  ft.)  is  the  nearest  station  to 
(85  M.)  the  curious  Crater  Lake. 

’"Crater  Lake  (6240  ft.)  lies  on  the  summit  of  the  Cascade  Mts.,  occupying 
the  abyss  formed  by  tbe  subsidence  of  an  extinct  volcano  of  tbe  size  and 
height  of  Shasta.  It  is  6 M.  long  and  4 M.  wide.  Its  most  peculiar  feature 
is  the  perpendicular  enclosing  wall  of  igneous  rock,  1000-2000  ft.  high,  in 
which  there  are  but  one  or  two  openings.  There  is  no  visible  affluent  or 
outflow,  but  the  water,  though  destitute  of  animal  life,  is  fresh  and  sweet 


584  Route  102. 


PORTLAND. 


and  of  a phenomenally  clear  ultramarine  hue.  The  lake  is  2000  ft.  deep 
and  thus  the  deepest  body  of  fresh  water  on  the  continent.  '^Wizard  Island.^ 
in  the  centre  of  the  lake,  845  ft.  high,  is  an  extinct  volcanic  cone  and  is 
a curious  instance  of  a crater  within  a crater.  The  road  to  the  lake  is 
fair,  and  the  descent  to  the  water’s  edge  may  he  made  in  about  V2  lir. 
For  a visit  to  the  lake  from  Ashland  or  Medford  6-8  days  should  be  allowed. 
Conveyances,  camping  outfits,  and  information  may  be  obtained  at  both 
places.  The  district  containing  this  lake  has  been  set  apart  as  the  Oregon 
National  Park.  Government  has  recently  placed  some  trout  in  Crater  Lake 
For  an  excellent  account  of  the  lake,  see  Mazama  (p.  585),  Vol.  1,  l^o.  2. 

Beyond  Medford,  to  the  right,  stands  Table  Rock.  476  M.  Grant's 
Pass  (960  ft.);  510  M.  Glendale  (965  ft.);  552  M.  Myrtle  Creek 
(635  ft.);  574  M.  Roseburg  (490  ft.;  1690  inhab.),  on  the  Umpqua 
River.  To  the  right  is  Diamond  Peak  (8807ft.),  and  farther  on,  on  the 
same  side,  are  the  Three  Sisters  (8500  ft.).  Beyond  (649  M.)  Eugene 
(455  ft.)  we  descend  the  pretty  and  well-wooded  valley  of  th^Willdm- 
ette  (left).  667  M.  Harrisburg  (335  ft.).  — 692  M.  Albany  (240  ft.) 
is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (11  M.)  Corvallis  and  (83  M.)  Yaquina, 
on  Yaquina  Bay  (p.  586).  — 720  M.  Salem  (190  ft.;  Willamette 
Hotels  $ 2-3),  the  capital  of  Oregon,  a small  city  with  10,422  inhab.,  the 
State  Capitol.,  and  various  other  State  buildings  and  institutions.  — 
757  M.  Oregon  City  (95  ft.),  with  3494  inhab.,  possesses  a fine  water- 
power  supplied  by  the  Falls  of  the  Willamette  (40  ft.).  — 771  M. 
East  Portland  (55  ft.).  The^train  then  crosses  the  Willamette. 

772  M.  Portland  (*The  Portland^  from  $3;  Imperial,  B.  $ 1-2; 
Perkins,  R.  from  $ 1 ; Grand  Central;  Brit.  Consul,  Mr.  James  Laid- 
law),  the  business  capital  of  the  Pacific  North-West,  is  advantageously 
situated  on  the  Willamette,  12  M.  above  its  confluence  with  the  Co- 
lumbia. Pop.  (1900)  90,426,  including  East  Portland  and  Albina,  now 
incorporated  with  the  city.  These  figures  include  about  3000  Chinese. 
Its  position  at  the  head  of  deep-sea  navigation  on  the  Columbia  and 
Willamette  and  its  extensive  railway  connections  with  the  N.,  E.,  and 
S.  have  made  Portland  an  important  commercial  centre,  and  it  ranks 
among  the  wealthiest  cities  of  its  size  in  the  country. 

Portland  was  first  settled  in  1843,  and  its  growth  since  then  has  been 
rapid  and  uninterrupted.  The  annual  value  of  its  exports  now  amounts 
to  about  $25,000,000  (5,000,000  ?.),  the  chief  articles  being  wheat,  lumber, 
hour,  wool,  and  fish  (salmon,  etc.).  It  manufactures  pig  iron,  woollen 
Soods,  flour,  furniture,  beer,  cordage,  and  other  goods  to  the  annual  value 
of  $23,450,000  (4,700,0(X)?.).  It  has  steamship  lines  to  San  Francisco  and 
other  ports  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  Puget  Sound,  British  Columbia,  Alaska, 
China,  and  Japan,  while  its  sailing  vessels  ply  to  Great  Britain,  China,  South 
America,  and  New  York.  — The  annual  rainfall  at  Portland  is  46  inches. 

In  1905  Portland  is  to  be  the  scene  of  a Centennial  Fair  to  commemorate 
the  crossing  of  the  Continent  by  the  intrepid  explorers  Meriwether  Lewis 
and  William  Clark  in  1805.  See  the  section  on  Portland  in  Powell's 
‘Historic  Towns  of  the  Western  States’  (1901). 

The  Union  Railway  Station,  at  the  corner  of  N.  6th  and  Irv- 
ing Sts.,  is  a roomy  and  handsome  building,  with  a tall  clock-tower. 
About  3/4  M.  to  the  S.  of  it,  in  the  block  enclosed  by  Jefferson,  Ma- 
dison, 4th,  and  5th  Sts.,  is  the  City  Hall,  containing  i\e  Orego7i 
Historical  Society's  Museum  and  the  Hawkins  Museum  of  Natural 


PORTLAND. 


102.  Route.  685 


History.  Other  important  edifices  in  the  business  part  of  the  city  are 
the  Chamber  of  Commerce  (Stark  St. ; with  an  Intelligence  Bureau  for 
strangers),  the  Post  Office  ^ Custom  House  (5th  St.),  the  Court  House 
(4th  St.),  the  Opera  House  (Morrison  St.),  the  Masonic  Temple 
(Morrison  St.),  the  Daily  Oregonian  Office  (cor.  of  6th  and  Alder  Sts.), 
and  the  Marquam  Block  (Morrison  St.).  The  Portland  Library^  Stark 
St.,  is  a tasteful  Romanesque  building,  containing  also  the  Art  Asso- 
ciation Rooms^  with  etchings,  casts  etc.  The  Portland  Industrial  Ex- 
position Building^  in  Washington  St.,  is  used  for  annual  exhibitions. 
The  most  notable  churches  are  the  Presbyterian  Church  (cor.  of  Alder 
& 12th  Sts.),  the  White  Temple  (Baptist;  cor.  of  Taylor  & 12th  Sts.), 
and  the  new  Episcopal  Cathedral  (cor.  of  19th  & Everett  Sts.). 

The  Willamette,  which  is  lined  with  docks,  warehouses,  and  saw- 
mills, is  spanned  by  four  bridges  connecting  the  suburbs  to  the  E. 
with  the  business  and  old  residential  districts  to  the  W.  of  the  river. 
The  finest  residences  are  on  the  King^s  Hilf  Couch  Adition^  Portland 
Heights^  and  Willamette  Heights  on  the  W.  side,  and  in  Hawthorn 
Avenue  and  Irvington  on  the  E.  side.  The  upper  part  of  King’s  Hill 
is  occupied  by  the  City  Park^  easily  accessible  by  the  Washington  St. 
trolley-cars  and  well  worth  a visit.  To  the  N.W.  is  the  wilder  scenery 
of  McClay  Park^  with  a deep  canon  and  primitive  forest,  through 
which  passes  th€  attractive  Cornell  Road.  The  Riverside  Drive,  S.  of 
the  city,  along  the  Willamette,  is  a^lso  picturesque. 

The  visitor  to  Portland  will,  however,  bestuse  his  leisure  by  ascend- 
ing the  Portland  Heights  on  the  W.  side  of  the  city  (easily  reached 
on  foot  or  by  tramway)  for  the  sake  of  the  magnificent  *Motjn- 
TAiN  Yiew  they  command. 

Mt.  Hood  (p.  586),  60  M,  to  the  S.E.,  is  the  most  prominent  peak,  but 
the  rounded  dome  of  ML  St.  Helens  (p.  478  ^ 50  M.  to  the  N.) , ML  Adams 
(p.  476),  and  Mt.  Rainier  (p.  478)  are  visible,  and  the  view  also  includes 
the  Coast  and  the  valleys  of  the  Columbia  and  Willamette.  The  best 

point  for  this  view  is  Council  Crest  or  Fairmount , 1000  ft.  above  the  city 
and  about  1 hr.’s  walk  or  2/4  hr.’s  drive  from  its  centre.  Practically  the 
same  view  may  be  had  from  the  fine  drive  way  called  the  Boulevard  that 
now  encircles  the  hills  a little  below  the  top,  about  800  ft.  above  the  city. 

Portland  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Mazamas , an  Alpine  Club  (200 
members)  founded  in  1894 , which  has  done  much  to  make  the  mountain- 
scenery  of  the  Pacific  Korth-West  better  known  through  its  periodical  the 
Mazama  and  in  other  ways  (annual  dues  $3). 

Excursions  from  Portland. 

The  favourite  excursion  from  Portland  is  the  voyage  up  the  "Columbia 
River  to  (60  M.)  the  Cascades  and  to  (110  M.)  The  Dalles  (fare  $3'/2^  return 
fare  $5^  comp.  p.  505;  Or.  E.  R.  & Nav.  Co.  Office,  cor.  of  3rd  and  Washing- 
ton Sts.).  The  traveller  may  take  the  trains  to  Dalles,  spend  the  night 
there,  and  return  next  morning  by  the  steamer.  If  the  trip  is  made  only 
one  way,  the  steamer  should  be  preferred,  as  the  scenery  is  not  seen  to 
the  best  advantage  from  the  train.  The  boats  leave  early  in  the  morning, 
but  travellers  can  go  on  board  the  night  before.  On  the  way  we  pass  (18  M.) 
Vancouver,  the  military  headquarters  of  the  Department  of  the  Columbia. 

Steamers  (office  as  above)  also  descend  the  Lower  Columbia  to  (106  M.) 
Astoria  (ca.  8 hrs.),  affording  a good  view  of  the  wide  estuary  of  a great 
river.  A visit  to  a Salmon  Cannery  may  be  combined  with  the  trip.  Astoria 


586  Route  103. 


COLTON. 


may  also  be  reached  by  the  Astoria  db  Columbia  River  R.R.  (100  M.).  — Astoria 
(Occident  Hotels  $2;  Brit,  vice-consul,  Mr,  P.  L.  Cherry)^  a small  seaport 
with  8381  inhab.,  formerly  famous  for  its  fur-trade,  bas  3 M.  of  wharves 
on  the  Columbia.  Excursions  may  be  made  hence  to  (16  M.)  Clatsop  Beach 
(hotel)  and  North  Beach  (in  Washington;  return-ticket  from  Portland  to 
either  of  the  Beeches,  $4^/2). 

The  Willamette  affords  another  pleasant  trip,  steamers  plying  regularly 
to  Oregon  City  (p.  584),  Dayton.^  and  Corvallis  (p.  584). 

"Mt.  Hood  (11,225  ft.)  is  conveniently  ascended  from  Portland  by  taking 
the  train  to  (66  M.)  Hood  River  (comp.  p.  505). 

Mt.  St.  Helens  (a  more  or  less  active  volcano),  Mt.  Adams.,  Mt.  Jefferson., 
and  the  Three  Sisters  may  also  be  visited  from  Portland;  but  the  trails  are 
rough,  and  camping  out  is  necessary  in  each  case. 

Among  other  points  of  interest  visited  from  Portland  are  the  Multnomah 
Falls  (p.  506),  Crater  Lake  (p.  583),  and  Yaqtiina  (p.  584),  Newport  (Ocean 
House),  and  other  places  on  Yaquina  Bay  (8  hrs.  by  train;  return-fare  $6). 

From  Portland  to  Tacoma  (for  Seattle.,  British  Columbia.,  Alaska.,  etc.), 
see  R.  105;  to  Omaha  and  the  East.,  see  R.  88. 


103.  From  San  Francisco  to  New  Orleans. 

2490  M.  Southern  Pacific  Railway  (‘Sunset  Routed  in  about  4 days 
(fare  $57.50;  30-days  ticket,  with  ‘stop-oveF  privileges,  $67.50;  sleeper 
$ 14).  Through-carriages. 

From  San  Francisco  to  (484  M.)  Los  Angeles.,  see  R.  97b. 

Beyond  Los  Angeles  the  train  runs  to  tbe  E.  through  the  fruitful 
San  Gabriel  Valley  (p.  569).  From  (488  M.)  Shorb  (AQO  ft.)  branch- 
lines  diverge  to  (5  M.)  Pasadena  (p-  569)  and  to  (10  M.)  Monrovia 
(p.  527)  and  (12  M.)  Duarte.  — 491  M.  San  Gabriel  (410  ft.;  Hotel 
San  Gabriel,  known  as  ‘The  Grape  Yine’,  with  a huge  trellised 
vine,  100  years  old,  in  its  garden)  is  the  site  of  the  interesting 
^Mission  de  San  Gabriel  Arcangel,  founded  in  1771.  The  Mission 
Churchy  erected  in  1804  with  material  imported  from  Spain,  is  seen 
to  the  left,  just  before  we  enter  the  station.  The  old  Mission  gardens 
and  vineyards  deserve  a visit.  Pasadena  (see  p.  569)  lies  about  3 M. 
to  the  N.W.  To  the  N.  and  E.  is  the  Sierra  Madre  Range  (p.  569).  — 
At  (498  M.)  Bassett  (290  ft.)  a loop-line  diverges  to  Covina^  rejoining 
the  main  line  at  Pomona.  — 516  M.  Pomona  (860  ft.;  The  Palo- 
mares,  $21/2)?  5526  inhab.,  is  one  of  the  i^rettiest  and  most 

prosperous  of  the  fruit-growing  towns  in  the  San  Bernardino  Valley 
(p.  527).  Large  crops  of  alfalfa  (six  yearly)  and  beet-root  are  also 
raised  here.  A little  to  the  S.E.  is  the  admirable  Experimental 
Station  of  the  University  of  California.  — 525  M.  Ontario  (980  ft. ; 
Ontario,  $2),  a brisk  little  fruit-growing  town  with  2600  inhab.,  lies 
in  the  midst  of  a striking  landscape,  with  the  four  highest  mountains 
of  S.  California  in  sight  (Mt.  St.  Bernardino  and  Grayback  to  the  E., 
San  Jacinto  to  the  S.E.,  and  Mt.  San  Antonio  or  OldBaldy  to  the  N.). 
It  is  connected  with  (2^2  ^0  Upland  (p.  527)  by  the  beautiful 
*Euclid  Avenue^  planted  with  eucalyptus  and  pepper  trees  and 
traversed  by  an  electric  tramway.  A branch-line  runs  to  CMno,  with 
a large  beet-sugar  factory.  — 524  M.  South  Cucamonga. 

540  M.  Colton  (965  ft.;  Trans -Continental  Hotel.,  $U/2-3; 


YUMA. 


103.  Route.  587 


Capital,  $2),  a town  of  1285  inliab.,  is  of  importance  as  tlie  junction 
of  lines  to  San  Bernardino  (p.  526),  on  the  N.,  and  San  Diego 
(p.  572),  on  the  S.  It  grows  large  quantities  of  fruits  of  various 
hinds  and  is  widely  known  for  its  excellent  black  and  white  marble 
(comp.  p.  546). 

The  train  now  begins  to  ascend  rapidly  towards  the  ridge  of  the 
San  Bernardino  Mis.,  which  we  cross,  at  (563  M.)  Beaumont,  by 
the  San  Gorgonio  Pass  (2560  ft.).  On  the  other  side  we  descend  as 
rapidly  towards  the  Colorado  Desert  (see  below).  To  the  right  are 
the  striking  San  Jacinto  Mts.  (highest  summit  10,800  ft.),  to  the 
left  the  San  Bernardino  Range. 

The  Colorado  Desert,  which  we  now  traverse  for  about  150  M., 
is  a barren  sandy  wilderness,  a great  part  of  which  actually  lies 
below  sea-level  (see  below).  Almost  nothing  grows  on  it  except  cac- 
tus and  yuccas.  The  Gulf  of  California  would  seem  to  have  exten- 
ded to  the  vicinity  of  the  San  Gorgonio  Pass  and  when  it  receded  left 
a large  inland  sea  of  salt-water,  which  finally  dried  up,  leaving  large 
deposits  of  salt  near  Salton  (see  below).  — 569  M.  Banning  (2320  ft.) ; 
575 M.  Cahazon  (1780  ft.);  583 M.  White  Water  (1125ft.).  The  so- 
called  ‘Hog  Wallows’  of  this  district  are  oblong  mounds,  a foot  or  two 
above  the  general  level,  produced  by  wind  and  drifting  sand.  — About 
7 M.  to  the  S.W.  of  (589  M.)  Palm  Springs  (585  ft.)  lies  Palm  Valley 
(inn),  at  the  E.  base  of  the  San  Jacinto  Mts.,  with  the  only  natural 
grove  of  date-palms  in  California  and  a curious  hot  sand-spring.  It  is 
now  frequented  to  some  extent  as  a health-resort  (as  it  was,  byanother 
race,  long  before  the  Spaniards  found  it  in  1537),  and  fruit-growing 
is  also  carried  on.  — 612  M;  Indio  (Southern  Pacific  Hotel,  $2),  also 
frequented  by  consumptive  patients,  is  an  attractive  place,  with  fine 
palms  and  cottonwood  trees.  The  tract  between  here  and  Yuma  is  a 
desolate  desert,  hot  even  in  mid-winter.  At  Indio,  we  are  about 
50  ft.  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  at  (637  M.)  Salton  we  reach  a 
depth  of  263  ft.  below  sea-level.  In  1891  a lake,  30  M.  long,  10  M. 
wide,  and  4 ft.  deep,  was  created  near  Salton  by  the  Colorado  River, 
the  country  thus  partly  reverting  for  a time  to  the  physical  conditions 
mentioned  above.  From  (666  M.)  Old  Beach,  a branch-line  runs  to 
the  S.  to  (27  m.)  Imperial,  an  oasis  made  by  irrigation.  At  (671  M.) 
Flowing  Well  we  are  again  5 ft.  above  sea-level.  683  M.  Mammoth. 
— About  47  M.  farther  on  we  cross  the  Colorado  River,  and  enter 
Arizona  (p.  521). 

731 M.  Yuma  (140ft.;  Southern  Pacific  Hotel,  with  Rail.  Restaurant, 
$2V2i  Gandolfo,  R.  from  $1),  with  4125  inhab.,  one  of  the  hottest 
places  in  the  country,  was  established  by  the  Spanish  missionaries 
in  1700  and  lies  on  the  Colorado  just  below  its  confluence  with  the 
Gila  (‘Heela’).  The  Mexican  frontier  is  only  7 M.  to  the  S.  The 
Yuma  Indians,  specimens  of  whom  sell  bows  and  arrows,  etc.,  at 
the  railway-station,  have  a reservation  adjoining  the  Colorado.  The 
Territorial  Prison  is  situated  at  Yuma. 


588  Route  103.  TUCSON.  From  San  Francisco 

The  train  now  follows  the  conrse  of  the  Gila  (left)  through  an 
arid  and  unattractive  district.  Cacti  are  abundant,  including  many 
specimens  of  the  giant  cactus  (Cereus  giganteus;  Mex.  sahuaro), 
often  40  ft.  high  and  ‘looking  like  a Corinthian  column  surmounted 
by  candelabra’.  Mirages  are  often  seen  in  crossing  Arizona  by  this 
route.  To  the  left  rise  the  Castle  Dome  Mts.,  to  the  right  the  Oila 
Range.  Farther  on  other  mountains  are  seen  on  both  sides  and 
vegetation  appears  sparsely,  the  desolation  being  relieved  by  the 
wonderful  colouring  and  curious  rock-formation.  The  sunrises  and 
sunsets  here  are  worth  seeing.  The  line  gradually  ascends  from 
Yuma,  affording  views  of  the  Gila  river  at  intervals.  854  M.  Gila 
Bend  (735  ft.;  The  Kindall);  873  M.  Estrella  (1520  ft.).  — - From 
(896  M.)  Maricopa  (1175  ft.)  a branch-line  runs  to  the  N.  to  (34  M.) 
Phoenix  (^Adams  Ho.,  from  $3,  R.  from  $1;  Commercial  Hotel, 
R.  from  $ 1;  Ford  Ho.,  $ 21/2-5);  the  capital  of  Arizona,  a well- 
built,  modern  city  of  5544inhah.,  in  the  well-irrigated  and  amazingly 
fertile  Salt  River  Valley.  The  remains  of  several  prehistoric  towns 
have  been  found  in  the  vicinity.  From  Phoenix  to  Ash  Fork,  see 
p.  524.  — About  16  M.  to  the  N.  (2  hrs.  by  stage)  of  (917  M.)  Casa- 
Grande  (1395  ft.;  Casa  Grande,  Woods  Ho.,  $21/2)  are  the  inter- 
esting remains  of  the  pueblo  of  Casa  Grande  or  Chichitilaca,  with 
enormous  adobe  walls.  — We  continue  to  ascend  steadily. 

982  M.  Tucson  (pron.  ‘Toosohn’;  2390  ft.;  Santa  Rita,  $5; 
St.  Xavier,  at  the  station,  from  $21/2;  Hew  Orndorff,  $2-3;  San 
Augustin,  from  $21/2;  Windsor,  R.  from  $ 1),  a quaint  old  Spanish- 
looking  place  with  7531  inhab.,  is  the  largest  city  of  Arizona  and 
carries  on  a considerable  trade  with  Mexico.  Copper,  cattle,  and  the 
railroad  shops  are  its  chief  sources  of  wealth.  Tucson  contains  the 
Territorial  University,  an  Indian  School,  and  an  interesting  Desert 
Botanical  Laboratory  in  connection  with  the  Carnegie  Institute 
(p.  323).  In  its  vicinity  is  a U.  S.  Agricultural  Station  for  ex- 
perimental work.  About  9 M.  to  the  S.  is  the  old  mission-church  of 
St.  Xavier  del  Bac,  founded  at  the  close  of  the  17th  century  (since 
when,  it  is  said,  service  in  it  has  never  ceased). 

Beyond  Tucson  the  Santa  Rita  Mts.  are  seen  to  the  right,  cul- 
minating in  Mt.  Wrightson  (10,315  ft.);  to  the  left  are  the  Santa 
Catalina  Mts.  — Crossing  the  San  Pedro  river,  we  reach  (1031  M.) 
Benson  (3580  ft.),  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (353  M.)  Guay- 
mas,  on  the  W.  coast  of  Mexico  (Gulf  of  California).  At  (1053  M.) 
Dragoon  (4615  ft.)  we  reach  the  highest  point  of  this  part  of  the 
line  and  begin  to  descend  slightly.  1073  M.  Wilcox  (4165  ft.) ; 
1081  M.  Railroad  Pass  (4395  ft.).  From  (1097  M.)  Bowie  (3760  ft.), 
a branch-line  runs  to  (35  M.)  Solomonsville.  At  (1127  M.)  Stein's  Pass 
(4350  ft.),  in  the  Peloncillo  Range,  we  enter  New  Mexico  (p.  533). 
1147  M.  Lordshurg  (4245  ft.),  the  junction  of  a branch-line  to  (71 M.) 
Clifton  and  its  rich  copper-mines.  — 1207  M.  Deming  (4335  ft. ; 
Depot  Hotel,  from  $ 3;  Faywood,  from  $2^/2),  a place  of  1341  inhab., 


to  New  Orleans. 


EL  PASO. 


103.  Route.  589 


is  the  junction  of  the  A.  T.  & S.  F.  line  to  Rincon  (for  La  Junta, 
Denver,  etc.,  see  p.  520)  and  also  of  a short  line  to  (48  M.)  Silver 
City.  — 1215  M.  Zuni  (4185  ft.;  not  to  he  confused  with  the  pueblo 
mentioned  at  p.  521).  One  mile  beyond  (1288  M.)  Rogers  we  cross 
the  wide  and  deep  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  (itself  here  an  in- 
significant stream)  by  a superb  steel  bridge,  and  enter  Texas  (‘Lone 
Star  State’),  the  largest  state  in  the  Union  (265,780  sq.  M.,  or  largei 
than  France).  Texas,  besides  raising  cattle,  is  rapidly  growing  in 
commercial  importance,  producing  cotton,  wine,  iron,  coal,  oil,  and 
rice  which  rivals  that  of  Carolina, 

1294  M.  El  Paso  (3715  ft.;  Angelas,  from  $21/2,  F.  from  $ 1; 
Sheldon,  $ 3-5,  R.  $ Orndorff,  $2Y2'’4:;  Pierson,  R.  from 

$ 1;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a city  of  15,906  inhab.,  is  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  has  become  a place  of  some  in- 
dustrial importance,  with  silver -smelting  works  and  cattle -yards, 
iron-foundries,  and  railroad-shops.  It  is  the  chief  gateway  of  the  trade 
between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  and  ‘the  Pass’  to  everywhere 
being  the  S.  terminus  of  the  A.  T.  & S.  F.  line  (R.  92  b),  the  W.  ter- 
minus of  the  Texas  & Pacific  Railway  (R.  104),  the  N.  terminus  of 
the  Mexican  Central  Railway  (R.  108),  the  E.  terminus  of  the  El 
Paso  & South-Western  Railway,  and  a junction  of  the  Rock  Island 
system.  Just  across  the  river  is  the  Mexican  town  of  Ciudad  Juarez 
or  El  Paso  del  Norte  (see  p.  613),  connected  with  El  Paso  by  an  ‘inter- 
national’ tramway.  — Railway  time  changes  here  from  the  ‘Pacific’ 
to  the  Central  standard  (2  hrs.  faster) ; local  time  accords  with  the 
‘Mountain’  standard  (comp.  p.  xviii). 

Beyond  El  Paso  the  line  rises  and  falls,  as  it  follows  the  general 
course  of  the  Rio  Grande,  here  forming  the  boundary  between 
Texas  and  Mexico.  Antelopes  are  occasionally  seen  from  the  train 
and  prairie-dogs  frequently.  1307  M.  Ysleta  (3665  ft.) ; 1348  M.  Fort 
Hancock  (3520  ft.);  1387  M.  Sierra  Blanca  (4510  ft.),  a junction  with 
the  Texas  Pacific  Railway  (p.  596;  1456  M.  Valentine  (4425  ft.)- 
1491  M.  Marfa  (4690  ft.),  the  main  depot  for  Fort  Davis,  a little 
to  the  N.,  the  centre  of  a district  for  large  game,  including  bears, 
panthers,  and  mountain-lions.  — At  (1506  M.)  Paisano  (5080  ft.) 
we  reach  the  highest  point  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  between 
San  Francisco  and  New  Orleans  (1055  ft.  higher  than  the  Tehachapi 
Pass,  p.  565).  Fine  mountain- scenery  in  the  distance.  — 1566  M 
Raymond  (mb  n.)-  1611  M.  Sanderson  (2780  ft.;  Rail.  Restau- 
rant); 1683  M.  Langtry  (1320  ft.),  a military  post.  The  Rio  Grande 
IS  again  in  sight.  Beyond  (1694  M.)  Shumla  (1420  ft.)  we  cross  the 
Pecos  River  by  a fine  cantilever  bridge,  2184  ft.  long  and  321  ft.  high 
(one  of  the  highest  railway-bridges  in  the  world).  To  the  S.,  be- 
tween  Pecos  and  Devil’s  River,  in  a canon  of  the  Rio  Grande,  lies 
Painted  Cave,  a large  cavern  with  some  curious  and  undeciphered 
Indian  hieroglyphics.  As  we  approach  (1735  M.)  DeviVs  River  (970  ft.) 


590  Route  103. 


SAN  ANTONIO.  From  San  Francisco 


we  see,  to  the  left,  the  singular  Palisades^  in  the  Castle  Rock  Canon, 
Beyond  (1748  M.)  Del  Rio  (955  ft.;  Del  Rio  Hotel,  $ 2),  we  leave 
the  Rio  Grande  and  traverse  a cattle -raising  district.  — From 
(1785  M.)  Spofford  Junction  (1015  ft.)  a line  runs  to  (35  M.)  Eagle 
Pass,  the  starting-point  of  the  Mexican  International  Railway  route 
to  Mexico  (see  p.  612).  1826  M.  Uvalde  (930  ft.);  1877  M.  Dunlay 
(1010  ft.). 

1918  M.  San  Antonio.  — Hotels.  New  Southern,  $2V2-4^  Menger, 
from  $3;  Bexar,  simple^  St.  James;  New  Maverick,  R.  from  $1;  The 
Argtle,  on  Adams  Heights,  excellent  for  a prolonged  stay;  Hot  Sulphur 
Wells  Hotel,  near  tlie  town,  open  in  winter  only,  $ 4-6.  — Good  restau- 
rant at  the  Bexar  Hotel;  Torreon's  Restaurant;  Rail.  Restaurant. 

San  Antonio  (685  ft.),  the  chief  city  of  Texas  and  the  ‘cradle  of 
Texas  liberty^  is  a well-built  city,  of  a distinctly  Spanish  cast, 
situated  on  the  San  Antonio  River,  which,  with  its  small  affluent 
the  San  Pedro , divides  the  city  into  three  parts,  and  by  its  wind- 
ings gives  occasion  for  innumerable  bridges  and  culverts  within  the 
city  limits.  San  Antonio  is  an  important  wool,  cotton,  horse,  mule, 
and  cattle  market,  and  is  the  centre  of  numerous  railways  (see 
pp.  591,  592).  It  is  also  the  seat  of  a United  States  military  post 
p.  591).  Its  population  of  (1900)  53,321,  the  largest  of  any  city  in  the 
state,  consists  in  nearly  equal  proportions  of  Americans,  Mexicans, 
and  Germans,  with  a few  Coloured  people.  San  Antonio  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  cities  in  the  country  and  will  repay  a day’s  halt.  It 
is  probably  unique  in  the  United  States  as  a town  where  gambling- 
dens  are  still  maintained  openly,  conducted  in  an  honest  and  orderly 
manner,  and  where  genuine  Mexican  cock-fighting  is  a Sun.  after- 
noon diversion.  San  Antonio  is  frequented  as  a winter-resort  by 
persons  of  weak  lungs  (mean  temp.,  winter  52®,  summer  82®). 

San  Antonio  de  Bexar  was  settled  by  tlie  Spaniards  about  1690-1700, 
and,  like  most  of  their  settlements,  combined  the  character  of  a presidio, 
or  military  post,  with  that  of  a mission  (San  Antonio  de  Valero).  The  most 
outstanding  event  in  its  history  is  the  ‘Fall  of  the  Alamo’  in  1836.  Texas  had 
determined  to  resist  certain  obnoxious  laws  imposed  by  Mexico,  and  the  latter 
sent  an  army  under  Santa  Ana  to  reduce  the  rebels.  The  advance-guard  of 
4000  men  reached  San  Antonio  on  Feb.  22nd  and  found  the  fortified  Church 
of  the  Alamo  (see  below)  garrisoned  by  a body  of  145  Americans  (after- 
wards joined  by  25  or  30  more),  under  Travis,  Bowie,  and  Davy  Crockett, 
who  refused  to  surrender.  After  a siege  of  12  days,  the  church  was  finally 
carried  by  assault  (Mar.  6th)  and  all  the  survivors  of  the  gallant  little  band 
of  defenders  were  put  to  the  sword.  ‘Remember  the  Alamo’  became  a 
burning  watchword  in  subsequent  struggles.  See  ‘San  Antonio  de  Bexar’,  a 
handsomely  illustrated  volume  by  Wm.  Corner,  including  a sketch  by  Sydney 
Lanier  (price  $ 1.25),  ‘Remember  the  Alamo’,  a novel  by  Mrs.  Barr,  and  the 
‘Historical  Sketch  of  the  Alamo’,  by  Leonora  Bennett,  sold  in  the  building. 

The  first  object  of  interest  for  most  visitors  to  San  Antonio  is  the 
*Ohue,ch  op  the  Mission  del  Alamo,  situated  in  the  Alamo  Plaza, 
in  the  quarter  to  the  E.  of  the  San  Antonio  River.  The  church,  which 
seems  to  have  derived  its  name  from  being  built  in  a grove  of  alamo 
or  cottonwood  trees  (a  kind  of  poplar;  Populus  monilifera),  is  alow 
and  strong  structure  of  adobe,  with  very  thick  walls.  It  was  built  in 


to  New  Orleans. 


SAN  ANTONIO. 


103.  Route.  591 


1744,  but  has  lost  many  of  its  original  features.  It  is  now  preserved 
as  a national  monument  (visitors  admitted  free).  — At  the  N.  end 
of  the  Alamo  Plaza,  in  Houston  Street:,  is  the  handsome  Federal  Build- 
ing. On  the  W.  side  of  the  plaza  is  the  building  containing  the  San 
Antonio  Club  and  the  Grand  Opera  House. 

Following  Houston  St.  towards  the  left  (W.),  we  cross  the  San 
Antonio  and  T^d^oAiSoledad  Street.,  which  leads  to  the  left  to  the  Main 
Plaza  (Flaza  de  Las  Yslas)^  pleasantly  laid  .out  with  gardens.  On  its 
S.  side  rises  the  imposing  Court  House  and  on  its  W.  side  stands 
the  Oathedral  of  San  Fernando,  dating  in  its  present  form  mainly 
from  1868-73,  but  incorporating  parts  of  the  earlier  building,  where 
Santa  Ana  had  his  headquarters  in  1836.  — To  the  W.  of  the  Oath- 
edral is  the  Military  Plaza  (Plaza  de  Armas),  with  the  City  Hall. 

The  *Military  Post  (Fort  Sam  Houston),  one  of  the  largest  in 
the  United  States,  is  finely  situated  on  Government  Hill,  1 M.  to  the 
N.  of  the  city,  and  deserves  a visit.  The  tower  (88  ft.  high)  in  the 
centre  of  the  quadrangle  commands  a splendid  *View  of  the  city  and 
its  environs. 

No  stranger  in  San  Antonio  should  neglect  to  visit  some  of  the  other 
old  Spanish  Missions  near  the  city.  Those  most  often  visited  are  the  First 
and  Second  Missions  (see  below),  hut,  if  time  allows,  the  Third  and  Fotirth 
Missions  should  he  included.  They  can  all  he  seen  hy  a drive  of  5 or  6 hrs. 

The  Mission  of  the  Conception,  or  First  Mission,  lies  about  2V4  M.  to 
the  S.  of  the  city  (reached  via  Garden  St.),  dates  from  1731-52,  and  is  well 
preserved.  The  church  has  two  W.  towers  and  a central  dome.  The 
sculptures  on  the  W.  door  should  he  noticed.  — The  ^Mission  San  Jose 
de  Aguayo,  or  Second  Mission,  4 M.  to  the  S.  of  the  city,  dates  from  1720-31 
and  is  the  most  beautiful  of  all.  Among  the  points  to  he  noted  are  the 
W.  facade  of  the  church  and  the  doorway,  window,  and  capitals  of  the 
sinall  chapel  or  baptistry.  To  the  W.  of  the  church  is  the  Mission  Granary, 
with  its  arched  stone  roof  and  flying  buttresses  (now  used  as  a dwelling). 
The  line  of  the  rampart  of  the  Mission  Square  is  now  obscured  by  adobe 
huts  erected  on  its  ruins.  — The  Mission  San  Juan  de  Capistrano,  or  Third 
Mission,^  6 M.  to  the  S.  of  San  Antonio,  dates  from  1731.  The  line  of  its 
square  is  well  defined,  and  its  ruined  church,  chapel,  and  granary  are  inter- 
esting. About  1/2  M.  distant  is  a solid  old  Aqueduct,  taking  water  to  the 
Fourth  Mission.  — The  Mission  San  Francisco  de  la  Espada,  or  Fourth 
Mission,  on  the  W-  bank  of  the  San  Antonio  River,  9 M.  to  the  S.  of  the 
city,  also  dates  from  1731.  At  the  S.E.  corner  of  the  Mission  Square  is  a 
well-preserved  Baluarte  or  bastion.  The  Church  has  been  restored  and  is 
regularly  used  for  service  by  the  Indians  here. 

About  3 M.  to  the  S.  of  San  Antonio  are  the  International  Fair  Grounds 
and  Buildings,  reached  either  by  the  Aransas  Pass  Railway  or  by  electric 
tramway.  It  was  on  these  grounds  that  ‘Roosevelt’s  Rough  Riders’  were 
organized  in  1898.  Adjacent  is  Riverside  Park,  with  fine  groves  of  pecan 
ivees  (Gary a olivaeformis).  San  Pedro  Park,  1 M.  to  the  N.  of  the  city 
contains  fresh  springs  and  a zoological  collection.  ^ 

From  San  Antonio  to  Rockport,  159  M.,  San  Antonio  & Aransas  Pass 
R.  R.  in  6V2  hrs.  The  line  runs  towards  the  S.E.  61  M.  Kenedy  is  the 
junction  of  a line  to  (177  M.)  Houston  (see  p.  592).  — 138  M.  Gregory  is 
the  junction  of  a line,  crossing  Corpus  Christi  Bay,  to  (11  M.)  Corpus 
Christi  (St.  James,  Merriman,  % 2),  a city  of  4703  inhab.,  frequented  as  a 
summer-resort.  It  has  a considerable  shipping-trade  and  is  connected  by 
the  Texas  & Mexican  Railway  with  Laredo  (p.  592).  The  King  Ranch, 
45  M.  to  the  S.  of  Corpus  Christi,  is  the  largest  cattle-ranch  in  the  United 


592  Route  103. 


HOUSTON.  From  San  Francisco 


States  owned  by  one  person  (Mrs.  Richard  King).  It  covers  700,000  acres 
(10^  sq.  M.)  and  is  stocked  with  100,000  cattle  and  30(X)  brood-mares.  — 
159  M.  Rockport  {Bay  View  Ho..,  The  Del  Mar.,  $ 2;  The  Shell.)  2 M.  from 
the  town,  $ 2V2-3),  a place  of  1153  inhab.,  situated  on  Aransas  Bay^  is  a 
favourite  resort  for  bathing  and  for  its  fine  tarpon  and  other  fishing.  The 
famous  Tarpon  Club.,  consisting  of  wealthy  fishermen  from  all  over  the 
country,  has  its  club-house,  an  elaborate  structure,  on  St.  Josephus  Island. 
Rockport  has  a good  harbour,  entered  by  Aransas  Pass.,  which  has  been 
improved  by  the  construction  of  stone  jetties.  The  country  round  Aransas 
Rass  and  Corpus  Christi  is  very  fertile  and  produces  large  quantities  of  fruit. 

From  San  Antonio  to  Austin,  79  M.,  International  and  Great  Northern 
R.  R.  in  2V2-3  hrs.  — 32  M.  Neu- Braunfels.,  a German  town  founded  by  the 
‘Deutscher  Adelsverein’  in  1844 ; 49  M.  San  Marcos.  — 79  M.  Austin  (Driskill) 
R.  $ 1-2V2^  Avenue,  $ 2-2V2;  Hancock,  $ 2-21/2),  the  capital  of  Texas,  a 
pleasant  little  city  with  22,2o8  inhab.,  lies  on  the  Colorado  River,  in  full 
view  of  the  Colorado  Mts.  Its  handsome  red  panite  '^'Capitol,  finely  situated 
on  high  ground,  was  built  by  Chicago  capitalists  in  1881-88,  at  a cost  of 
31/2  million  dollars,  in  exchange  for  a grant  of  3 million  acres  of  land.  It 
is  the  largest  capitol  in  America,  after  that  at  Washington,  and  is  said  to 
be  the  seventh-largest  building  in  the  world.  Other  prominent  buildings 
are  the  State  University  (1350  students),  the  Land  Office,  the  Court  House, 
and  various  Asylums.  About  2 M.  above  the  city  is  the  • Austin  Ram,  a huge 
mass  of  granite  masonry,  1200  ft.  long,  60-70  tt.  high,  and  18-66  ft.  thick, 
constructed  across  the  Colorado  River  for  water-power  and  water-works. 
Lake  McDonald,  formed  by  the  dam,  is  25  M.  long. 

From  San  Antonio  to  Laredo,  153  M.,  International  and  Great  Northern 
R.  R.  in  6V3  5rs.  The  intermediate  stations  are  unimportant.  — Laredo 
{Hamilton,  $ 2-3 ; Ross,  $ 2-2V2),  a busy  commercial  city  with  13,429  in- 
hab., lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte  or  Rio  Grande.  — 
Mexican  National  Railroad  hence  to  the  City  of  Mexico,  see  R.  106, 

Beyond  San  Antonio  the  New  Orleans  line  passes  a number  of 
stations  of  no  great  importance.  1993  M.  Harwood  (460ft.)  5 2049  M, 
Columbus  (210  ft);  2098  M.  Rosenberg  (110  ft). 

2126  M.  Houston  (65  ft.;  Rice  Ho.)$S-6  ] Bristol^  $2-2t/2,R.from 
$ 1;  Tremont^  $1V2;  Burnett,  $2),  locally  pronounced  ‘Hewston’, 
the  second  city  of  Texas  in  population  in  1900  (44,633),  lies  on  the 
narrow  hut  navigable  Buffalo  Bayou,  50  M.  above  Galveston.  It  is  a 
characteristic  specimen  of  a ‘hustling  , go-ahead,  ‘Western’  city,  with 
more  than  usually  extravagant  hopes  of  future  development  It  carries 
on  a large  trade  in  cotton,  sugar,  timber,  and  cotton-seed  oil.  The 
numerous  manufactories  employ  about  5000  workmen  and  in  1900 
produced  goods  to  the  value  of  $ 10,640,000.  Among  the  principal 
buildings  are  the  Market  ^ City  Hall,  the  Cotton  Exchange,  the 
Court  House,  the  Rost  Office,  and  the  Masonic  Exchange.  A visit  to 
one  of  its  large  Cotton  Presses  is  interesting.  Houston  is  a railway 
centre  of  great  importance , about  a dozen  lines  radiating  hence  in 
all  directions,  and  is  the  E.  centre  for  the  workshops  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Railway.  

From  Houston  to  Galveston,  Galveston,  Houston  # Henderson 
R.  R.  (50  M.)  in  IV2  Galveston,  Houston  4^  Northern  Railway 

(57  M.)  in  2 hrs.  The  chief  intermediate  stations  on  each  line  are 
(6  M.  or  7 M.)  Harrisbury  and  (39  M.  or  47  M.)  Texas  City  Junction. 
From  (22  M.)  Strang  (G.  H.  & H.  R.  R.)  a branch-line  runs  to  (3  M.) 


to  New  Orleans, 


GALV  ESTON. 


103,  Route.  593 


Sylvan  Beach^  a small  watering-place.  As  we  approach  our  destina- 
tion we  cross  a trestle,  more  than  2 M.  long,  leading  over  the  channel 
between  the  two  wings  of  Galveston  Bay  to  Galveston  Island. 

57  M.  Galveston  ("Trcmont,  $21/2“^;  Grand;  Atlanta^  $ 11/2“ 
2^2?  Hotel,,  $ IV2;  British  Consul,  Mr.  H.  D.  Nugent) ^ 

the  fourth  city  of  Texas  in  population  (37,789  in  1900)  hut  the  first 
in  commercial  importance,  lies  at  the  N.E.  extremity  of  the  long  and 
narrow  Galveston  Island,  at  the  entrance  to  Galveston  Bay.  It  is  a 
most  interesting  place,  well  worth  a visit.  In  the  hurricane  of  Sept.  8th, 
1900,  the  city  was  almost  entirely  destroyed  hy  a tidal  wave,  causing 
the  death,  direct  or  indirect,  of  6-8000  people.  The  loss  of  property 
was  also  immense,  hut  Galveston,  owing  to  the  courage  and  rare  civic 
spirit  of  its  inhabitants  and  to  the  enterprise  of  an  unusually  efficient 
city  government,  has  rallied  bravely  from  the  blow,  is  rapidly  in- 
creasing in  commercial  importance,  and,  with  the  opening  of  the 
Panama  Canal,  seems  destined  for  a great  future.  It  claims  to  be 
the  first  grain  and  cotton  shipping  port  in  the  United  States,  and 
other  important  exports  are  wool,  hides,  flour,  fish,  and  fruit  (total 
value  of  exports  in  1903 , $ 144,355,000).  The  Gulf  Fisheries  Co. 
maintains  packing-houses  and  a fleet  of  boats  here,  supplying  fresh 
fish  to  Denver  and  all  the  West.  Galveston  has  a commodious  har- 
bour, and  about  50  regular  freight  and  passenger  steamer-lines  ply 
to  New  York,  New  Orleans,  Key  West,  Havana,  Yera  Cruz,  and 
various  South  American  and  European  ports.  Galveston  Bay  has  a 
total  area  of  about  450  sq.  M.  and  is  guarded  at  its  entrance  by  a long 
bar,  through  which  the  U.  S.  Government  has  constructed,  at  vast 
expense,  a deep  water-channel  flanked  by  stone-jetties,  5 M.  long. 
These  have  been  repaired  since  the  storm  of  1900,  and  the  channel 
farther  deepened.  An  immense  sea-wall  has  also  been  built  on  the 
outer  side  of  Galveston  Island  (on  the  inner  side  of  which  the  city 
chiefly  lies),  to  prevent  a recurrence  of  the  catastrophe.  This  wall,  made 
of  crushed  granite  sand  and  cement,  is  3^2  M.  long  and  17  ft.  high, 
16  ft.  wide  at  its  base  and  5 ft.  wide  at  the  top,  the  outer  wall  being 
curved  toward  the  sea,  and  is  built  on  a foundation  of  piles  driven 
44  ft.  deep.  The  shoreward  fllling-in,  sloping  down  to  the  level  of  the 
streets,  is  200  ft.  in  width,  affording  room  for  a spacious  boulevard 
and  driveway,  to  be  planted  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  There  is  also 
a promenade  along  the  top  of  the  wall.  The  general  level  of  the  city, 
formerly  little  above  the  level  of  the  bay,  has  also  been  raised  some 
10  ft.,  and  Galveston  Island  is  to  be  joined  with  the  mainland  by  a 
concrete  causeway,  500  ft.  wide.  To  assist  the  city  in  these  brave  and 
stupendous  undertakings,  the  State  remitted  its  taxes  for  15  years. 
The  streets  are  wide  and  straight,  bordered  with  palms  and  young 
trees,  and  the  residence-quarters  abound  in  luxuriant  gardens,  shaded 
with  oleanders,  magnolias,  etc.  The  parks  and  trees  in  the  streets 
are  in  charge  of  an  association  of  women.  Among  the  principal  build- 
ings are  the  Masonic  Temple,  with  an  Athletic  Club,  the  new  Custom 
Baei'ekek’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  38 


594  Route  103. 


MORGAN  CITY. 


House  ^ Post  Office,  tRe  Cotton  Exchange,  tlie  City  Hall,  tlie  Court 
House,  tlie  Bail  Free  School  (a  large  building  with  a dome),  the 
Rosenberg  Free  School,  the  Free  Public  Library,  and  the  R.  C.  University 
and  Hospital  of  St.  Mary.  There  is  also  a good  monument  to  the 
Texan  heroes  of  1836  (see  p.  590).  Magnolia  Grove  Cemetery  may 
be  visited.  — On  the  seaward  side  of  the  wall  is  a splendidly  smooth 
and  hard  *Beach,  30  M.  long,  affording  an  unrivalled  drive  or  walk. 
Good  tarpon  and  other  fishing  is  obtainable.  The  mean  temperature 
of  winter  here  is  about  62®,  of  summer  82®. 

From  Galveston  to  Fort  Worth  and  Newton,  see  p.  518  ^ to  Texarkana 
(for  St.  Louis,  etc.),  see  p.  510. 


Beyond  Houston  the  New  Orleans  line  continues  to  run  towards  the 
E.,  traversing  the  great  timber-producing  part  of  Texas.  At  (2176  M.) 
Liberty  (40  ft.)  we  cross  the  Trinity  River.  2210  M.  Beaumont  (30  ft.  5 
Clarendon  $2V2-3;  Cordova,  $272)5  with  9427  inhab.,  is  one  of  the 
centres  of  an  extensive  oil-belt,  running  from  Louisiana  to  Texas, 
recently  discovered  and  still  only  partially  exploited.  It  is  connected 
by  an  electric  line  with  Sour  Lake  (Sour  Lake  Hotel,  $3),  another 
oil-centre,  the  population  of  which  is  said  to  have  risen  from  50  to 
10,000  within  a few  months.  Beaumont  is  the  junction  of  lines  N.  to 
Dallas  (p.  595)  and  S.  to  Sabine  Pass  (Brit,  vice-consul),  with  a har- 
bour improved  by  the  U.  S.  Government.  Beyond  (2233  M.)  Orange 
(20  ft.)  we  cross  the  Sabine  River  and  enter  Louisiana  (p.  422).  2271 M. 
Lake  Charles;  2344  M.  Lafayette  (50  ft.).  The  line  now  bends  to- 
wards the  S.  The  flatness  of  the  great  stretches  of  plain  next  traversed 
contrasts  strikingly  with  the  billow-like  prairies  farther  to  the  N. 
The  features  of  the  scenery  are  tree-lined  ‘bayous’,  magnolia-groves, 
live-oaks  and  cypresses  draped  with  Spanish'moss  (Tillandsia  usneoi- 
des),  and  plantations  of  sugar-cane,  cotton,  and  tobacco.  — 2409  M. 
Morgan  City  (Costello,  $272;  ^332  inhab.),  with  a small  zoological 
and  botanical  garden  (Oneonta  Park)  , may  be  made  the  starting- 
point  of  an  interesting  steamer-trip  up  the  picturesque  Bayou  Teche, 
penetrating  the  district  to  which  the  Acadians  were  removed  (comp. 
Longfellow’s  ‘Evangeline’).  — At  (2489  M.)  Algiers  (p,  462)  we 
leave  the  train  and  cross  the  Mississippi  by  ferry. 

2490  M.  New  Orleans,  see  p.  461. 


104.  From  New  Orleans  to  Dallas,  Fort  Worth, 
and  El  Paso. 

Texas  and  Pacific  Railway  to  (512  M.)  Dallas  in  21-22  brs.  (fare  $ 15.30), 
to  (545  M.)  Fort  Worth  in  24  brs.  ($15.30),  and  to  (1160  M.)  FI  Faso  in  47  brs. 
($  29.90).  — Passengers  by  tbis  route  connect  at  Forth  Worth  with  through- 
carriages  for  Los  Angeles  and  San  Francisco,  following  the  tracks  of  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railway  (R.  103)  beyond  El  Paso. 

New  Orleans,  see  p.  461.  The  line  at  first  ascends  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Mississippi,  finally  parting  company  with  the  river  near 


FORT  WORTH. 


104.  Route.  595 


(85  M.)  Plaquemine.  From  (89  M.)  Baton  Rouge  Junction  a short 
line  runs  to  (8  M.)  Port  Allen,  opposite  Baton  Rouge  (p.  402). 
From  (162  M.)  Bunkie  a liiio  runs  to  (27  M.)  Simmesport.  From 
(169  M.)  Cheneyville  a line  runs  to  the  S.  to  Lafayette  (p.  594), 
on  the  S.  Pacific  Railway.  — 194  M.  Alexandria  (Rapides,  $ 2-21/2) 
is  a pleasant  little  town  of  5648  inhah.,  on  the  Red  River.  Steamers 
];)ly  hence  to  Shreveport  (see  below). 

324  M.  Shreveport  Junction^  for  (2  M.)  Shreveport  (The  Inn, 
$21/2-31/2;  Phoenix,  from  $ 2;  Caddo,  $ 21/2),  a busy  industrial  and 
commercial  city  with  16,013  inhab.,  on  the  Red  River.  Its  chief  ex- 
ports are  cotton  and  live-stock.  Steamers  ply  regularly  to  Alexandria 
and  New  Orleans.  Shreveport  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  Vicksburg 
(p.  401)  and  Houston  (p.  592).  — Our  line  now  bends  to  the  left 
(W.)  and  enters  Texas  (p.  589)  between  (341  M.)  Greenwood  and 
(347  M.)  Waskom. 

368  M.  Marshall  (400  ft.;  Genocchio,  $21/2-;  De  Elgin,  $2-21/2),  a 
brisk  little  city  with  7855  inhab.,  machine-shops,  and  other  factories, 
is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (67  M.)  Texarkana  (p.  512),  connecting 
there  with  the  Iron  Mountain  Line  (R.  91).  — 390  M.  Longview 
(335  ft.;  Mobberly,  Magnolia,  $2-21/2)  is  the  junction  of  the  Inter- 
national and  Great  Northern  Railway  to  Austin  (p.  592),  San  Antonio 
(p.  590),  and  Laredo  (p.  592).  — 437  M.  Mineola  (400  ft.> 

512  M.  Dallas  (465  ft. ; Oriental,  $2V2-5;  McLeod  Hotel,  $2-3  ; 
Windsor;  Lakeside,  at  Oak  Cliff),  the  third  city  in  Texas,  lies  on  the 
Trinity  River,  in  the  centre  of  a rich  corn,  wheat,  and  cotton  pro- 
ducing district.  Pop.  (1900)  42,638.  It  is  a railway-centre  of  great 
importance,  lines  branching  off  to  all  points  of  the  compass;  and  the 
annual  value  of  its  trade  is  $ 45,000,000,  of  its  manufactures  about 
$ 11,000,000.  The  Court  House  and  City  Hall  are  large  buildings. 
In  1897  a Confederate  Monument  was  erected  here,  consisting  of  a 
shaft  of  Texas  granite  50  ft.  high,  with  statues  of  Jefferson  Davis, 
Stonewall  Jackson,  Robert  Lee,  and  Sydney  Johnson  at  its  base. 
On  the  bluffs  (200  ft.)  to  the  S.  of  Dallas  is  the  suburban  town  of 
Oak  Cliff,  with  a large  Female  University. 

545  M.  Fort  Worth.  (640  ft. ; Worth,  from  $ 3;  Delaware,  $3 ; 
Metropolitan,  R.  from  50  c.),  a city  with  (1900)  26,688  inhab.,  on 
the  Trinity  River,  is  the  chief  railway-centre  of  Texas,  including 
lines  to  Wichita  (p.  518)  and  Newton  (p.  518),  Austin  (p.  592),  San 
Antonio  (p.  590),  and  Houston  (p.  592).  This  is  the  headquarters 
of  the  stock-men  of  the  N.  part  of  Texas  and  has  large  stockyards, 
grain  elevators,  flour- mills,  and  mammoth  packing-houses,  besides 
foun  dries,  large  railroad  shops,  and  factories.  The  annual  value  of  its 
trade  is  estimated  at  $40,000,000.  It  has  a University  (820  students), 
a Carnegie  Library,  and  other  notable  buildings.  Its  extensive  elec- 
tric street-railway  system  includes  a line  to  Dallas.  To  the  W.  are 
Arlington  Heights  (180  ft.) , with  a Country  Club,  a winter-resort 
commanding  a splendid  view  of  Trinity  Valley. 


38^ 


596  Route  104. 


LLANO  ESTACADO. 


Beyond  Fort  Worth  the  line  traverses  an  interminable  cattle-rais- 
ing district,  with  few  points  of  interest  for  the  traveller.  Stations  un- 
important. 578  M.  Weatherford  (865  ft.).  662  M.  Cisco  (1610  ft.)  is 
the  junction  of  the  Houston  and  Central  Texas  R.  R.  708  M.  Abilene; 
749  M.  Sweet  Water;  814  M.  Big  Springs. 

To  the  N.  of  this  part  of  the  line  extends  the  Llano  Estacado  or  Great 
Staked  Plain.,  a district  of  50,000  sq.  M.,  consisting  of  a vast  elevated  plateau 
nearly  5000  ft.  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by  an  escarpment  of  erosion  re- 
sembling palisades.  On  the  N.  it  is  hounded  by  the  Canadian  River  and 
on  the  E.  by  the  Pecos.  The  name  is  said  to  be  due  to  the  stakes  driven 
into  it  by  the  Spaniards  to  mark  their  way.  The  soil  is  generally  a brown 
loam,  covered  with  grama  grass  (Bouieloua  digostachya)  and  low  mesquite 
shrubs,  but  there  are  also  large  tracts  of  sand.  There  is  no  other  vegetation. 
The  surface  is  almost  perfectly  level,  except  where  a slight  variation  is 
afforded  by  the  sandhills.  There  is  no  surface-water,  except  in  a few 
scattered  ponds,  but  numerous  wells  have  been  sunk,  and  the  Staked 
Plain  has  thus  now  become  a vast  cattle  pasturage.  The  geological  condi- 
tions are  interesting  to  the  scientific  visitor. 

Beyond  (874  M.)  Odessa  we  see  the  White  Sand  Hills  to  the  right. 
947  M.  Pecos  City.,  on  the  Pecos  River.,  is  the  junction  of  the  Pecos 
Valley  R.  R.  to  (163  M.)  Rosiccii  and  (207  M.) /I mcrnV^o.  From  (966  M.) 
Toyah  stages  run  to  Fort  Davis  and  Fort  Stockton.  We  now  enter  a 
mountainous  district,  with  the  Guadalupe  Mts.  to  the  right  and  the 
Apache  Mts.  to  the  left. 

Between  (1044 M.)  Altamore  and  (1054  M.)  Eagle  Flight  the  Carrizo 
Mts.  may  be  seen  to  the  right.  From  (1067  M.)  Sierra  Blanca  to  — 
1160  M.  El  Paso,  see  p.  589. 

105.FromTacomatoPuget  Sound,  Victoria,  andAlaska. 

The  tourist  traffic  to  Alaska  is  mainly  in  the  hands  oii'hc  Pacific  Coast 
Steamship  Co.  of  San  Francisco,  and  a pamphlet  with  all  necessary  inform- 
ation, including  stateroom-plans  of  the  steamers,  may  be  obtained  from 
C.  D.  Dunanu,  10  Market  St.,  San  Francisco,  or  from  any  agent  of  the  com- 
pany. The  steamer  ‘Spokane’  of  this  company  (2000  tons  burden)  makes 
about  six  trips  from  Tacoma  fo  Sitka  and  back  every  summer  (June- Aug.), 
taking  about  11  days  to  the  round  journey  (fare  $ 100-250,  according  to 
position  of  berth  and  stateroom,  the  highest  charge  securing  the  sole  occu- 
pancy of  a large  deck-stateroom).  This  steamer  carries  comparatively  little 
freight  and  calls  at  Seattle,  Victoria,  Ketchikan,  Wrangell,  Juneau,  Tread- 
welFs,  Skagway,  the  Taku  and  Davidson  Glaciers,  Glacier  Bay,  Killisnoo, 
Kasaan,  and  Sitka.  — The  steamships  ‘City  of  Topeka’,  ‘Cottage  City’, 
and  ‘City  of  Seattle’  of  the  same  company  sail  fortnightly  the  year  round, 
carry  freight  as  well  as  passengers,  take  12-14  days  for  the  round  trip 
from  Tacoma  (fares  $FO-200),  and  call  at  more  points  in  Alaska.  Return- 
tickets  are  also  issued  from  San  Francisco  (fare  from  $124),  passengers 
travelling  by  sea  between  that  city  and  Victoria  (p.  596)  or  Port  Townsend 
(p.  595).  The  fares  from  Seattle,  Port  Townsend,  or  Victoria  are  the  same 
as  those  from  Tacoma.  Passengers  should  secure  their  berths  in  advance. 

The  arrangements  of  the  Alaska  trip  resemble  those  on  the  trip  to  the 
North  Cape  (see  Baedeker'' s Norway  and  Sweden').,  and  it  involves  no  greater 
hazard  or  fatigue.  There  are  only  a few  hotels  in  Alaska,  and  passengers  live 
almost  entirely  on  the  steamers.  The  weather  is  generally  pleasant  in  June, 
July,  or  Aug.,  though  rain  and  fog  may  be  looked  for  at  some  part  of  the 
voyage,  and  forest-fires  are  apt  to  obscure  the  sky  in  the  first  part  of  the 
trip,  especially  in  July  and  August.  Warm  winter  clothing  should  be 
taken,  as  the  nights  on  board  are  often  very  cold,  though  the  sun  may  be 
quite  powerful  during  the  day.  Stout  boots  are  desirable  for  the  short  ex- 


PUGET  SOUND. 


105.  Route.  597 


cursions  on  land,  and  waterproofs  are  indispensable.  Deck-chairs  may  be 
bought  or  hired  at  the  port  of  departure.  Nearly  the  whole  of  the  voyage 
is  in  the  calm  channel  between  the  coast-islands  and  the  mainland,  so  that 
sea-sickness  need  not  be  dreaded.  The  steamers,  though  not  so  luxurious  as  the 
Atlantic  liners  or  the  Fall  River  boats,  are  safe  and  reasonably  comfortable. 
The  ■ Scenery  passed  en  route  is  of  a most  grand  and  unique  character, 
such  as,  probably,  cannot  be  seen  elsewhere  at  so  little  cost  and  with  so 
little  toil^  or  adventure.  In  the  description  of  the  text  the  usual  route  of  the 
‘Spokane'  is  followed.  The  approximate  distances  from  Tacoma  by  this  course 
are  given  in  nautical  miles  (7  naut.  miles  = about  8 statute  miles).  Native 
curiosities  can,  perhaps,  be  best  obtained  at  Sitka  (p.  606),  furs  at  Juneau 
(p.  60f).  In  buying  the  latter  the  traveller,  if  not  an  expert,  should  be  on  his 
guard  against  deception  and  should  in  no  case  buy  except  at  the  larger  stores. 

The  recent  inining  developments  in  the  Upper  Yukon  District  have 
caused  the  establishment  of  several  more  or  less  temporary  steamboat  lines 
to  various  points  in  Alaska,  but  these  hardly  come  within  the  scope  of  the 
present  Handbook.  Comp.  pp.  605,  607,  and  Baedeker'' s Canada. 

Tacoma.,  see  p.  477.  The  first  part  of  tbe  voyage  lies  through 
*Puget  Sound,  named  from  a lieutenant  on  Vancouver’s  vessel,  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  salt-water  estuaries  in  the  world,  surrounded 
hy  finely  wooded  shores  and  lofty  mountains.  Its  area  is  about 
2000  sq.  M.,  while  its  extremely  irregular  and  ramified  shore-line  is 
nearly  1600  M.  long.  The  usual  width  is  4-5  M.  The  depth  varies 
from  300  to  800  ft.,  and  at  many  points  ‘a  ship’s  side  would  strike 
the  shore  before  the  keel  would  touch  the  ground’.  There  are  nu- 
merous islands.  A very  large  trade  is  carried  on  in  Puget  Sound  in 
timber,  coal,  and  grain.  As  we  proceed  Mt.  Rainier  or  Tacoma 
(p.  478)  is  conspicuous  to  the  S.E.,  while  the  Olympic  Mts.  (6- 
8000  ft.)  are  seen  to  the  W. 

25  M.  Seattle,  see  p.  469. 

As  the  steamer  continues  to  plough  its  way  towards  the  N.,  we 
obtain  a view  of  Mt.  Baker  (10,800  ft.),  the  last  outlier  of  the  Cas- 
cade Mts.,  far  ahead  of  us  (right).  The  steamer  bends  to  the  left  into 
Admiralty  Inlet,  the  main  entrance  to  Puget  Sound.  To  the  right 
lies  Whidbey  Island. 

65  M.  Port  Townsend  (Central,  Delmonico,  R.  from  $15  Brit, 
vice-consul,  Mr.  Oscar  Klocker),  a picturesque  little  town  of  3443  in- 
hab.,  lies  partly  on  the  shore  and  partly  on  a steep  bluff  behind, 
reached  by  long  flights  of  steps.  It  lies  at  the  head  of  the  Strait  of 
Juan  de  Fuca  and  is  the  port  of  entry  for  Puget  Sound.  The  large 
grey-stone  building  on  the  bluff  is  the  Custom  House.  To  the  left  lies 
Fort  Townsend,  with  a large  marine  hospital.  — Passengers  coming 
from  San  Francisco  by  sea  usually  join  the  regular  Alaska  steamers 
here,  but  it  is  not  called  at  by  the  ‘Spokane’. 

Our  boat  now  steers  to  the  N.W.  across  the  Strait  of  Juan  de 
Fuca.  To  the  left  are  the  Olympic  Mts.,  ahead  lies  Vancouver  Island  ; 
to  the  right,  in  the  distance,  rises  Mt.  Baker.  As  we  approach  Vic- 
toria the  little  city  presents  a very  picturesque  appearance.  The 
conspicuous  building  on  the  height  to  the  right  is  the  house  of  the 
late  Mr.  Dunsmuir,  a wealthy  coal-owner.  To  the  left  of  the  pier, 
among  trees,  are  the  barracks  of  Esquimau  (p.  598). 


598  Route  105. 


VICTORIA. 


From  Tacoma 


100  M.  Victoria  {Dallas.^  Briard^  $3-5;  Victoria,  $ 3-5,  R.  from 
$ 1;  Clarence;  Poodle  Dog  Restaurant,  D.  75  c.;  U.  S.  Consul,  Mr. 
A.  E.  Smith;  cabs  cheap),  the  capital  of  British  Columbia,  is  a quaint 
and  quiet  little  city  with  21,000  inhab.,  forming  a strong  contrast 
to  the  bustling  and  raw-looking  cities  we  have  just  been  visiting  on 
the  American  shores  of  the  Sound.  Victoria,  however,  is  also  of 
recent  origin,  having  been  founded  as  a station  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co. 
in  1842  and  not  beginning  to  develop  into  a town  until  the  gold- 
mining excitement  of  1858.  The  population  includes  a strong  con- 
tingent of  Chinamen.  The  centre  of  the  town  (lt/2  M.)  is  reached 
from  the  wharf  by  tramway  (5  c.).  The  * Government  Buildings, 
forming  a tasteful  group  in  a square  adjoining  James  Bay,  include  the 
Parliament  House,  the  Provincial  Museum  ^ Library,  and  the  Gov- 
ernment Offices.  The  monument  in  front  commemorates  Sir  James 
Douglas,  first  governor  of  the  colony.  ^Beacon  Hill  Park  should  also 
be  visited.  The  streets  are  wide  and  clean,  and  most  of  the  private 
residences  stand  in  gardens  rich  in  shrubs  and  flowers.  The  roads  in 
the  vicinity  of  Victoria  are  unusually  good  and  afford  charming 
drives  through  luxuriant  woods  of  pine,  maples,  alders,  arbutus, 
madronas,  fern-trees,  and  syringas. 

About  3 M.  to  the  W.  of  Victoria  (tramway,  10  c.)  lies  Esquimalt, 
the  headquarters  of  the  British  Pacific  Squadron,  with  a good  harbour,  a 
dockyard  (closed  at  5 p.m.),  a fine  dry-dock,  barracks,  and  a naval  arsenal. 
Some  British  men-of-war  may  generally  be  seen  here. 

From  Victoria  to  Nanaimo,  see  below.  — Steamers  ply  regularly  from 
Victoria  to  Vancouver  (see  Baedeker'' s Canada). 

Vancouver  Island,  at  the  S.  extremity  of  which  Victoria  lies,  is  290  M. 
long  and  50-80  M.  wide,  with  an  area  of  20,000  sq.  M.  The  greater  part  of 
its  surface  is  covered  with  mountains,  reaching  a height  of  6-7000  ft.  (Vic- 
toria Peak,  7485  ft.)  and  but  little  has  been  reclaimed  or  settled  by  Europ- 
eans since  its  exploration  by  Vancouver  in  1793.  The  two  native  tribes 
are  the  Nootkas  and  Belish,  of  whom  a few  degenerate  specimens  may  be 
met  in  Victoria. 

From  Victoria  our  course  lies  to  the  N.,  through  the  Canal  de 
Haro,  which  was  decided  by  the  arbitration  of  the  King  of  Prussia 
in  1872  to  be  the  line  of  demarcation  between  American  and  British 
possessions.  To  the  left  lies  Vancouver  Island,  to  the  right  the 
San  Juan  Islands,  beyond  which  the  cone  of  Mt.  Baker  is  long  visible. 
Looking  backward,  we  see  the  Olympic  Mts.,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Juan  de  Fuca  Strait.  On  issuing  from  the  archipelago  of  Haro 
Strait,  we  enter  the  broader  v/aters  of  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  (20-30  M. 
wide).  Various  islands  lie  off  the  shore  of  Vancouver. 

130  M.  Nanaimo  (Windsor,  Wilson  Ho.,  $2-2Y2j  U*  Con- 
sular Agent),  a small  town  on  the  E.  coast  of  Vancouver,  with  6100 
inhab.,  is  of  importance  as  the  outlet  of  the  extensive  collieries  of 
the  New  Vancouver  Coal  Co.  The  Alaska  steamers  often  stop  to  coal 
here  either  in  going  or  returning.  The  pretty,  rose-gardened  cottages 
of  Nanaimo  are  very  unlike  the  grimy  abodes  of  coal- miners  in 
England,  and  many  of  the  miners  own  them  in  freehold.  Nanaimo 
is  connected  with  (73  M.)  Victoria  by  the  only  railway  on  the  island. 


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DISCOVERY  PASSAGE.  105.  Route.  699' 


^ — Vancouver  (see  BaeclekeVs  Canada)  lies  on  tlie  mainland,  directly 
opposite  Nanaimo  (steamer,  $ 2). 

Farther  on  we  see  few  settlements  or  signs  of  life.  The  shores  are 
low  and  heavily  wooded,  but  lofty  mountains  rise  behind  them  on 
both  sides,  those  on  the  mainland  covered  with  snow.  Long,  deep, 
and  narrow  fjords,  flanked  with  lofty  mountains,  run  up  into  the  land. 
To  the  right  lie  Lesqueti  Island  and  the  large  Texada  Island,^  covering 
the  entrance  to  Jervis  Inlet ^ one  of  the  just-mentioned  fjords.  About 
80  M.  beyond  Nanaimo  we  leave  the  Gulf  of  Georgia  and  enter  *Dis- 
covery  Passage,  a river-like  channel,  25  M.  long  and  1-2  M.  wide, 
which  separates  Vancouver  Island  from  Valdes  Island  and  is  flanked 
by  mountains  3-6000  ft.  high.  Valdes  Island,  ending  on  the  S.  in 
Cape  Mudge^  occupies  nearly  the  whole  channel,  and  a scheme  has 
been  in  consideration  for  running  a railway  from  the  mainland  to 
Vancouver  Island  by  bridges  constructed  over  the  narrow  waterways 
here.  About  the  middle  of  Discovery  Passage  are  the  fsimous* Seymour 
Narrows,,  2 M.  long  and  t/2  M.  wide,  through  which  the  water  rushes 
with  great  velocity  (sometimes  12  knots  an  hour). 

Discovery  Passage  is  succeeded  by  * Johnstone  Strait,  another 
similar  channel,  55  M.  long  and  1-3  M.  wide,  between  Vancouver 
Island  on  the  left  and  the  mainland  itself,  or  islands  hardly  distin- 
guishable from  it,  on  the  right.  The  Prince  of  Wales  Range,,  on  Van- 
couver Island,  reaches  a height  of  about  4600  ft. ; and  the  white 
summits  of  the  Cascade  Range  rise  to  the  right  beyond  the  lower  in- 
tervening hills.  The  varied  beauty  of  the  scenery  cannot  easily  be 
indicated  in  words ; but  few  travellers  will  weary  of  the  panorama 
unfolded  before  them  as  the  steamer  advances.  — Beyond  Johnstone 
Strait  we  thread  the  shorter  Broughton  Strait  (15  M.  long),  between 
Vancouver  Cormorant  Sind  Malcolm  Islands.  On  Cormorant  Island 
lies  the  Indian  village  of  Alert  Bay,  with  a salmon-cannery,  a totem 
pole,  and  a native  graveyard.  The  conical  summit  to  the  left  is  ML 
Holdsworth  (3040  ft.). 

On  emerging  from  Broughton  Strait  we  enter  Queen  Charlotte’s 
Sound,  which  is  10-30  M.  wide  and  contains  many  islands,  mostly 
adjoining  the  mainland.  On  the  shore  of  Vancouver  lies  Fort  Rupert, 
an  old  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.,  with  an  Indian  village.  A little 
later  we  pass  through  Qoletas  Channel  and  then  say  farewell  to  Van- 
couver Island,  the  N.  point  of  which.  Cape  Commerell,  we  leave  to 
the  left.  For  a short  time  (40  M.)  we  are  now  exposed  to  the  swell 
of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  but  this  is  seldom  enough  in  summer  to  cause 
uneasiness  even  to  bad  sailors.  To  the  N.W.,  in  the  distance,  loom 
the  large  Queen  Charlotte  Islands. 

Our  course  now  hugs  the  mainland  and  leads  at  first  through 
^Fitzhugh  Sound,  a deep  and  narrow  channel,  the  W.  shore  of  which 
is  formed  by  a continuous  series  of  islands.  The  sharp  peak  of  Mt. 
Buxton  (3430  ft.)  rises  on  Calvert  Island,  As  we  near  the  N.  end 
of  the  Sound  the  scenery  becomes  very  grand,  huge  snowy  peaks 


600  Route  105.  GRENVILLE  CHANNEL.  From  Tacoma 


towering  above  the  pine-clad  hills  that  line  the  channel.  Beyond  the 
large  Hunter  s Island  we  turn  sharply  to  the  left  and  enter  the  ex- 
tremely narrow  and  winding  *Lama  Passage,  between  it  and  Denny 
Island.  On  Campbell  Island,  to  the  left,  is  the  Indian  village  of 
Bella  Bella,  opposite  which  is  a graveyard,  with  totem-poles  (comp, 
p.  601).  Farther  on  we  pass  through  the  wider  Sea  forth  Channel 
and  reach  Millbank  Sound,  the  only  other  point  on  the  voyage  where 
we  are  exposed  for  a brief  interval  to  the  waves  of  the  open  sea. 
Beyond  this  sound  we  enter  Finlay  son  Channel,  24  M.  long  and  2 M. 
wide,  between  the  large  Princess  Royal  Island  (48  M.  long  and  25  M, 
wide)  and  the  mainland.  Numerous  fjords,  short  and  long,  run  into 
the  mainland,  and  several  high  waterfalls  descend  from  the  cliffs.  Fin- 
layson  Channel  is  continued  by  Tolmie  Channel,  Graham  Reach,  and 
Frazer  Reach,  beyond  which  we  pass  through  McKay  Reach,  between 
the  N.  end  of  Princess  Royal  Island  and  Gribbell  Island,  into  Wright’s 
Sound.  From  this  we  enter  *Grenville  Channel,  which  runs  for  50  M. 
ill  an  almost  perfectly  straight  line  between  Pitt  Island  and  the  main- 
land. It  is  flanked  on  both  sides  with  steep  mountains  1500-3500  ft. 
high,  while  still  higher  mountains  rise  in  the  background  to  the 
right.  At  places  the  channel  is  only  a few  hundred  feet  wide.  Signs 
of  glacier  action  are  seen  on  the  more  distant  mountains,  while  the 
courses  of  long  bye-gone  avalanches  may  be  traced  by  the  light-green 
streaks  of  the  younger  growth  of  trees.  Crossing  an  expansion  of 
Grenville  Channel,  we  next  enter  the  short  Arthur  Passage,  between 
Porcher  Island  (1.)  and  Kennedy  Island  (r.),  which  leads  to  Malacca 
Passage  and  the  wide  Chatham  Sound.  To  the  right  is  the  mouth  of 
the  Skeena  River.  The  E.  side  of  the  Sound  is  bounded  by  the  large 
Chim~sy~an  or  Tsimpsean  Peninsula,  which  is  connected  with  the 
mainland  by  a very  narrow  neck  of  land.  On  this  lies  Old  Metla- 
katla,  the  scene  of  Mr.  Wm.  Duncan’s  interesting  experiences  in 
educating  the  natives  (see  p.  602)  and  now  a missionary  station  of  the 
Episcopal  Church  of  Canada.  Higher  up  is  Port  Simpson,  a station 
of  the  Hudson  Bay  Co.,  established  in  1831.  To  the  left  lie  the  Dun- 
das  Islands,  opposite  the  northernmost  of  which  opens  Portland  Inlet. 
Just  here  we  cross  the  boundary-line  between  the  British  and 
American  possessions  (54®  40'  N.  lat. ; the  famous  ‘fifty-four  forty 
or  fight’  of  1842)  and  enter  Alaska  t.  To  the  left  opens  Dixon  En- 
trance, between  Graham  Island  (S.)  and  Prince  of  Wales  Island  (N.). 

The  territory  of  Alaska  received  its  name  from  Charles  Sumner  in  a 
speech  addressed  to  the  Senate  in  favor  of  the  purchase  of  the  terri- 
tory. It  is  a corruption  of  an  Aleut  word  referring  to  the  continent  as 
distinguished  from  the  Aleutian  islands.  The  boundaries  of  the  territory 
comprise  the  continent  and  islands  adjacent,  to  the  W.  of  141®  W.  Ion., 
and  also  a strip  to  the  W.  of  a line  drawn  parallel  to  the  coast  from  the 
vicinity  of  Mt.  St.  Elias  (p.  607)  in  a S.E.  direction  to  the  N.  extreme  of 


t The  exact  boundary  between  Alaska  and  Canada  was  not  definitely 
settled  till  Oct.,  1903,  when  it  was  determined  by  a Commission,  meeting 
in  London  and  composed  of  delegates  from  the  United  States,  Great  Britain, 
and  Canada.  Comp.  Map,  p.  598. 


to  Alaska. 


ALASKA. 


105.  Route.  601 


Portland  Canal,  througli  the  canal  in  mid-channel,  and  westward  to  the 
ocean  on  the  parallel  of  54°  40'  N.  lat.  The  W.  limits  of  the  territory,  to 
the  N.  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  include  the  Aleutian  chain,  the  islands  of 
Bering  Sea,  and  the  eastern  of  the  two  Diomede  Islands  in  Bering  Strait. 

The  territory  is  divisible  by  its  physical  characteristics  into  several 
diverse  regions.  The  Sitkan  Region^  including  the  coast  and  islands  to 
Cook’s  Inlet  on  the  N.  and  the  Kadiak  group  on  the  W.,  has  a rough  and 
naountainous  topography  with  many  glaciers,  a bold  sea-coast,  numerous 
fjords  and  islands,  a moist,  cool,  and  equable  climate,  and  a dense  covering 
of  chiefly  coniferous  forests.  — The  Aleutian  Region  includes  the  peninsula 
of  Alaska,  the  Aleutian  chain,  and  the  Pribiloff  or  Fur  Seal  Islands.  It 
also  has  a cool  and  equable  climate,  with  much  fog  and  wind  but  less 
rain  than  in  the  Sitkan  region.  It  consists  of  broad  level  areas  with 
numerous  clusters  of  mountains,  few  glaciers,  many  volcanic  cones,  many 
harbours  and  anchorages^  and,  while  totally  destitute  of  trees,  nourishes 
luxuriant  crops  of  grass,  herbage,  and  wild  flowers.  The  Aleutian  chain 
represents  an  old  line  of  fracture  in  the  earth’s  crusty  and,  contrary  to  the 
usual  idea,  a large  proportion  of  the  islands  are  not  volcanic  but  com- 
posed of  crystalline  or  sedimentary  rocks.  — The  Yukon  Region  includes 
the  mass  of  the  continent  to  the  K.  of  the  great  peninsula,  which  has  on 
its  N.  border  true  Arctic  conditions,  on  its  W.  shores  a mild  summer  and 
an  Arctic  winter,  and  in  the  interior  a hot  short  summer  and  a dry  cold 
winter,  much  like  that  of  Minnesota.  It  is  a region  of  Tundra:  low,  un- 
dulating ranges  of  grassy  mountains,  and  extensive,  level,  more  or  less 
wooded  river-valleys. 

The  products  of  the  Sitkan  region  are  timber,  precious  metals,  salmon, 
halibut,  and  other  sea-fish.  Petroleum,  copper  ores,  lignitic  coal,  and  ex- 
tensive beds  of  marble  exist  in  many  places.  The  Aleutian  region  pro- 
duces chiefly  fox  and  sea  otter  fur,  the  fur-seal  pelts,  and  a certain  amount 
of  coal.  Extensive  cod-fisheries  are  prosecuted  along  its  shores.  The  Yukon 
region  produces  gold,  furs,  and  salmon.  A remarkable  characteristic  of  the 
Territory  is  that,  though  bordering  on  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  in  the  S. 
teeming  with  glaciers,  it  has  still  never  been  subjected  to  the  action  of 
a continental  ice  sheet,  such  as  have  ground  down  the  coasts  of  the  ana- 
logous fjord-regions  of  New  England  and  Norway. 

The  native  inhabitants  of  Alaska  belong  to  four  ethnologic  stock  races ; 

Eskimo  or  Innuii.^  with  their  special  offshoot  the  Aleutian  people^  the 
Haida  Indians  of  Alaska^  the  Tlinkit  stock  of  the  Sitkan  region  ^ and  the 
Tinneh  or  Athabascan  Indians  of  the  great  interior  region.  In  all  there  are 
between  twenty  and  thirty  thousand  of  these  natives,  independent,  self- 
sustaining,  and  mostly  well  disposed.  They  are  in  no  direct  way  related 
to  any  of  the  present  Asiatic  races  as  is  so  often  assumed,  but,  from  the 
evidences  of  the  prehistoric  shell-heaps,  have  occupied  the  region  for  many 
centuries.  They  live  by  fishing  and  hunting^  the  moose,  the  caribou,  and 
the  salmon,  in  the  interior,  and  the  hair-seal,  the  beluga,  the  cod  and  other 
sea-fishes,  the  salmon,  and  wild  fowl,  on  the  coasts,  furnish  their  chief 
supplies.  The  fjords  and  rivers  are  their  roads  ^ with  hardly  an  exception 
they  are  canoe-men  everywhere,  and  throughout  the  N.  drivers  of  dogs 
and  sledges. 

Among  the  Tlinkit  and  Haida  people  one  custom  is  forced  on  the 
attention  of  all  who  visit  their  villages..  It  is  that  of  erecting  what  are 
called  Totem  Poles^  which  have  various  significations,  the  most  common 
being  that  of  a ‘genealogical  tree’.  A man  erects  one  of  their  large  com- 
munal houses,  and,  in  memory  of  this  achievement,  puts  up  in  front  of 
it  a cedar  pole  carved  with  figures  emblematic  of  the  totems  of  himself 
and  his  ancestors,  one  above  another.  The  door  of  the  house  is  frequently 
cut  through  the  base  of  the  pole  under  the  totem  of  the  builder;  while, 
above,  the  successive  totems  (which  by  their  social  laws  must  change 
with  every  generation)  appear  in  the  order  of  remoteness. 

The  estimated  area  of  the  territory  is  590,894  sq.  M.  (thrice  that  of 
France);  its  total  population  about  (1900)  64,000,  of  which  one-third  may  be 
accounted  civilized;  its  chief  archipelago,  in  the  Sitkan  region,  is  said  to 
contain  6000  islands  j its  total  shore  line  amounts  to  some  18,200  M. ; its 


602  Route  106. 


FORT  WRANGELL. 


AldsJca* 


principal  commercial  port  is  in  about  the  same  latitude  as  Liverpool  5 its 
southernmost  islands  lie  on  the  parallel  of  Brussels^  its  westernmost  vil- 
lage is  as  far  W.  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  Oregon,  as  Eastport, 
Maine,  is  E.  from  that  point;  it  includes  within  its  boundaries  the  highest 
mountains,  the  most  superb  glaciers  and  volcanos  in  America  to  the  N.  of 
Mexico;  and  presents  the  anomaly  of  a territory  with  only  about  one  in- 
habitant to  9 sq.  M.  which  in  20  years  paid  more  than  eight  million  dollars 
in  taxes.  It  was  transferred  by  Russia  to  the  United  States  in  1867  for  the 
sum  of  $ 7,250,000. 

The  fullest  account  of  Alaska  is  contained  in  the  record  of  the  ‘Harri- 
man  Alaska  Expedition’  (1899),  a work  in  five  huge  volumes,  written  by 
the  various  members  of  the  Expedition  and  profusely  illustrated  (1903-1904). 
A more  manageable  and  also  authoritative  work  is  ‘Alaska  and  its  Re- 
sources’ by  Dr.  Wm.  H.  Dali.,  who  kindly  drew  up  the  above  paragraphs 
for  this  Handbook.  A good  popular  account  is  given  in  Miss  E.  R.  Scidmore's 
‘Alaska  and  the  Sitkan  Archipelago’.  See  also  Miss  Scidmores  excellent 
‘Guidebook  to  Alaska’  (Appleton)  and  A.  P.  Swineford's  ‘Alaska:  its  History, 
Climate,  and  Natural  Resources’  (1898). 

To  the  right,  as  we  proceed,  juts  out  Cape  Fox^  with  the  small 
station  of  Fort  Tongas,  The  steamer  next  enters  the  Revillagigedo 
Channel.,  with  Duke  Island  and  Annette  Island  to  the  left.  The  latter, 
the  largest  of  the  Grravina  group  (E.),  is  the  seat  of  Port  Chester.,  with 
the  new  Metlakatla.,  founded  by  Mr.  Duncan  on  leaving  his  original 
station  (see  p.  600).  To  the  right,  opposite  (to  the  N.  of)  Annette 
Island,  lies  the  large  island  of  Revillagigedo,  the  chief  places  on 
which  are  Ketchikan  (usually  the  first  stopping-place  of  the  steamer 
‘Spokane’  after  leaving  Victoria)  and  Loving,  with  an  important  sal- 
mon-cannery. Opposite  Ketchikan  lies  the  island  of  Gravina  (left), 
and  on  emerging  from  the  narrow  channel  separating  it  from  Re- 
villagigedo we  enter  Clarence  Strait,  which  is  100  M.  long  and 
4-12  M.  wide  and  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  Prince  of  Wales  Island 
(130  M.  long  and  30  M.  wide).  This  is  the  home  of  the  Haidas,  the 
cleverest  of  the  Alaskan  tribes  (comp.p.  601),  and  the  steamers  some- 
times call  at  Old  Kasaan,  on  the  E.  shore,  to  allow  tourists  to  see  its 
wonderful  totem-poles  (75-100  in  number,  better  than  those  at  Fort 
Wrangell).  We  are  now  within  what  is  known  as  the  Alexander 
Archipelago,  about  1100  of  the  islands  of  which  appear  on  the  U.S. 
charts,  while  innumerable  small  islets  are  disregarded.  The  moun- 
tains on  each  side  of  the  strait  are  fine  in  size,  proportions,  and 
colouring.  Near  the  head  of  Clarence  Strait  we  steer  to  the  right  (E.); 
between  Etolin  Island  (r.)  and  Zaremho  Island  (1.)  and  run  into 
Fort  Wrangell, 

790  M.  (from  Tacoma)  Wrangell,  situated  on  the  N.  end  of 
the  island  of  the  same  name , opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Stikine 
River,  was  formerly  a place  of  some  importance,  as  the  outlet  of  the 
Oassiar  Mines,  but  is  liow  a dirty  and  dilapidated  settlement  inhabit- 
ed by  about  250  Tlinkits  (p.  601)  and  a few  whites.  It  was  named 
from  Baron  Wrangell,  Russian  Governor  of  Alaska  at  the  time  of  its 
settlement  (1834). 

To  tbe  tourist  Wrangell  is  of  interest  as  containing  a good  collection 
of  Totem  Poles,  though  their  execution  is  by  no  means  so  fine  as  that  of  the 
Haidas  (see  p.  602).  The  totems  here  are  20-40  ft.  high.  One  is  surmounted 


Alaska. 


TAKU  INLET. 


105.  Route.  603 


l)y  a bear,  another  by  a head  with  a ‘Tyhec''  hat,  the  badge  of  a Shaman 
or  ‘Medicine  Man’.  A specimen  of  such  a hat,  said  to  be  400  years  old, 
is  shown  in  one  of  the  houses.  The  old  Graveyard  is  so  overgrown  with 
vegetation  as  to  be  difficult  of  access  and  now  contains  little  of  typical 
interest.  The  carved  figure  of  a bear  (or  wolf)  which  surmounted  one  of 
the  graves  now  lies  on  the  ground  near  two  totem-poles. 

The  Tlinkits  themselves  will  interest  the  visitors,  who  will  at  once 
notice  such  customs  as  the  blackening  of  the  faces  of  the  girls  (said  to 
have  or  its  object  the  preservation  of  the  complexion)  and  the  wearing  of 
lahrets.,  or  small  plugs  of  silver,  ivory,  wood,  or  bone,  in  the  lower  lip. 
Curiosities  of  various  kinds,  including  labrets,  silver  bracelets,  carved  horn 
and  wooden  spoons,  reed  baskets,  halibut  hooks,  gaily  painted  canoe-paddles, 
the  carved  rattles  of  the  Shamans,  and  fine  carvings  in  slate  may  be 
purchased  from  the  natives ; and  the  inquisitive  may  visit  the  imperfectly 
ventilated  interior  of  one  of  the  huts. 

At  the  end  of  the  village  farthest  from  that  with  the  totem-poles  are 
the  Court  House  and  a Mission  School  for  Girls.^  the  teacher  of  which  is  glad 
to  give  information  to  interested  visitors. 

The  Stikine  River  is  said  to  receive  no  fewer  than  300  glaciers,  and 
its  scenery  is  very  fine.  It  was  for  a time  used  as  one  of  the  routes  to 
the  gold  mines  of  the  Klondike  Region  (see  Baedeker's  Canada). 

Soon  after  leaving  Wrangell  we  thread  our  way  through  the 
devious  "^Wrangell  Narrows , where  the  channel  is  marked  by  stakes 
and  buoys.  The  shores  here  are  well-wooded,  and  at  places  stretches 
of  grass  border  the  water  like  the  lawns  of  an  English  country-house. 
Farther  on,  in  Soukhoi  Channel.,  the  scenery  is  of  a more  majestic 
character.  The  mountains  on  either  side,  though  apparently  of  no 
very  great  height,  are  covered  with  snow  to  within  1000  ft.,  or  less, 
of  the  water ; and  their  shapes  are  very  varied  and  beautiful.  One 
of  the  most  striking  is  the  DeviVs  Thumb  (9080  ft.) , a peaked 
monolith  recalling  the  Dolomites  of  Tyrol.  We  here  see  the  first 
glaciers  of  the  voyage  (all  to  the  right)  : the  Le  Conte  Glacier.,  high  up 
on  the  mountain-side;  the  larger  Patterson  Glacier;  and  the  Baird 
Glacier.,  in  Thomas  Bay.  About  this  part  of  the  trip,  too,  we  may 
meet  our  first  piece  of  floating  ice;  while  the  indescribably  beauti- 
ful effects  of  the  late  sunsets  (9-10  p.m.)  will  rouse  the  most 
sluggish  enthusiasm.  The  huge  slopes  of  neve.,  or  hardened  snow, 
are  fine. 

Soukhoi  Channel  widens  into  Frederick  Sound.,  with  Cape  Fan- 
shawe  to  the  right  and  Kupreanoff  Island  to  the  left;  but  our  course 
soon  leaves  this  sound  and  carries  us  to  the  N.  through  the  long 
Stephens  Passage^  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the  large  Admiralty  Island. 
Holkam  or  Sum  Bum  Bay.,  to  the  right,  has  been  the  scene  of  some 
placer-mining.  Near  the  head  of  the  passage,  to  the  right,  opens 
*^Taku  Inlet,  with  its  fine  glaciers,  one  of  which  has  a sea-face  Y2 
long  and  100-200  ft.  high.  The  steamer  now  usually  enters  this 
inlet  to  afford  a close  view  of  this  glacier  as  a substitute  for  the 
Muir  Glacier  (see  p.  605).  The  muddy  grey  water  of  the  inlet  is 
filled  with  ice-floes  and  bergs.  The  surrounding  mountains  are  of  a 
fantastic,  Dolomitic  appearance.  The  chief  settlement  of  Admiralty 
Island  is  Killisnoo  (sometimes  visited  by  the  passenger- steamers), 
on  its  W . coast,  with  large  oil-works.  — Just  beyond  the  mouth  of 


604  Route  105. 


JtJNEAU. 


Alaska. 


the  Taku  Inlet  we  enter  the  pretty  Oastineau  Channel.,  between 
Douglas  Island  and  the  mainland. 

990  M.  Juneau,  one  of  the  chief  towns  of  Alaska,  is  situated 
on  the  mainland,  on  a narrow  strip  of  comparatively  level  ground 
between  the  sea  and  a precipitous,  snow-seamed  mountain  (3300  ft.). 
Settled  in  1880  and  named  after  a nephew  of  the  founder  of  Mil- 
waukee (p.  360),  it  is  occupied  mainly  by  miners.  In  1900  it  con- 
tained 1864  inhab.,  about  equally  divided  between  whites  and  natives 
or  half-breeds.  Juneau  is  one  of  the  outfitting  stations  for  the  Yukon 
miners,  and  contains  a theatre,  several  churches,  two  or  three  hotels, 
a woollen  mill  and  other  industrial  establishments,  and  some  shops 
for  the  sale  of  Alaskan  furs  (sea-otter,  seal,  otter,  beaver,  bear, 
musk-rat,  fox,  etc.;  see,  however,  p.  597)  and  the  famous  Chilkat 
Blankets.  The  last  are  made  of  the  hair  of  mountain  - goats  and 
coloured  with  native  dyes,  but  genuine  examples,  worth  $60-100, 
are  now  rare,  and  most  of  those  offered  for  sale  are  made  of  wool  and 
stained  with  aniline  dyes.  Juneau  supports  two  newspapers. 

About  V2  to  the  N.  of  Juneau  is  a village  of  the  Auk  Indians.^  a 
curious  and  primitive,  but  very  dirty  settlement,  which  will  repay  a visit. 
The  traveller  may  bargain  here  for  a trip  in  an  Indian  canoe.  Behind  the 
village  is  a native  Cemetery.^  with  curious  little  huts  containing  the  cremated 
remains  and  personal  effects  of  the  deceased. 

A well-made  road  leads  from  Juneau  through  the  highly  picturesque 
Canon  of  the  Gold  Creek.,  with  its  waterfalls  and  small  glacier,  to  (3V2  M.) 
Silver  Bow  Mines,  and  offers  a trip  well  worth  making  if  time  allows. 
The  Silver  Bow  Basin  contains  gold  mines  of  great  promise,  and  both 
quartz  and  placer  mining  are  successfully  prosecuted. 

On  Douglas  Island,  nearly  opposite  Juneau,  is  the  famous  *Treadwell 
Gold  Mine,  at  which  the  steamers  generally  call.  The  mine,  which  is  close 
to  the  wharf  and  easily  visited,  has  one  of  the  largest  quartz- crushing 
mills  in  the  world,  employing  880  stamps.  The  quartz  does  not  produce 
more  than  $ 3-4  of  metal  per  ton,  but  is  so  easily  and  economically  worked 
that  the  profits  are  said  to  be  enormous.  The  gold  actually  in  sight  is 
estimated  to  be  worth  4-5  times  as  much  as  the  price  paid  for  the  entire 
district  of  Alaska  (p.  602).  Many  of  the  best  workers  in  the  mine  are 
natives,  who  earn  $ 2V2  per  day.  Many  others  are  Slavonians. 

As  Gastineau  Channel  has  not  been  charted  above  Juneau,  the 
steamer  now  returns  to  its  S.  end  and  then  proceeds  to  the  N. 
through  Saginaw  Channel.,  on  the  W.  side  of  Douglas  Island.  This 
debouches  on  *Lynn  Canal,  a fine  fjord  extending  for  60  M.  towards 
the  N.  It  is  flanked  with  snow-mountains,  rising  abruptly  from  the 
very  edge  of  the  water  to  a height  of  6000  ft.,  and  presents,  perhaps, 
the  grandest  scenic  features  we  have  yet  encountered.  To  the  right, 
on  Resurrection  Bay,  a little  to  the  N.  of  Berner  s Bay,  lies  Seward 
City  (500  inhab.),  whence  a railway  is  being  built  to  the  Tanana  River 
(ca.  400  M.).  About  a score  of  glaciers , large  and  small , descend 
from  the  ravines  into  the  fjord,  among  which  the  Auk,  Eagle  (r.), 
and  Davidson  Glaciers  are  conspicuous.  The  last- mentioned,  near 
the  head  of  the  fjord  and  on  its  W.  side,  spreads  out  to  a width  of 
3 M.  as  it  reaches  the  water-level,  its  front  being  partly  masked  by  a 
tree -grown  moraine.  Passengers  are  generally  landed  here  for  a 
closer  inspection  of  the  glacier. 


Alaska. 


MUIR  GLACIER. 


1 05.  Route.  605 


Lynn  Canal  ends  in  two  prongs,  named  the  Ghilkoot  andChilkat 
Inlets,  which  have  recently  come  into  prominence  in  connection 
with  the  rush  to  the  gold  district  of  the  Klondike.  In  these  inlets 
the  tourist  reaches  the  highest  latitude  of  his  trip  (ca.  59®  10'  N. ; 
about  that  of  the  Orkney  Islands,  Christiania,  and  St.  Petersburg). 
At  midsummer  there  are  not  more  than  3-4  hrs.  of  partial  dark- 
ness here. 

On  the  E,  bank  of  Cbilkoot  Inlet  (the  E.  arm)  lies  Skagway  (hotels), 
a busy  little  town  of  (1900)  3117  inhab.,  the  terminus  of  the  White  PavSs 
Railway  (see  below),  now  forming  practically  the  only  route  used  in 
approaching  the  Klondike  and  Yukon  districts  from  the  coast.  The  steamer 
stops  here  long  enough  to  allow  of  an  excursion  to  the  head  of  the  pass.  Dyea., 
on  the  W.  bank,  was  formerly  a ri^al  of  Skagway  but  has  been  deserted 
since  the  opening  of  the  railway.  — On  Chilkat  Inlet  lie  Pyramid  Harbor 
and  Chilkat.,  with  prosperous  salmon-canneries.  There  are  also  other  settle- 
ments on  the  inlet.  This  is  the  district  in  which  the  fine  Chilkat  blankets 
(p.  604)  are  made.  Good  echoes  may  be  wakened  off  the  glaciers. 

From  Skagway  to  White  Horse,  110  M.,  railway  (two  trains  daily) 
in  7-lOhrs.  (fare  $ 20;  return-fare  to  White  Pass  $ 5).  Travellers  are  strongly 
recommended  to  make  ^he  trip  to  the  summit  of  the  pass  and  back,  as 
the . mountain , clilf,  and  canon  scenery  is  very  striking,  while  the  con- 
struction of  the  line  itself  is  also  interesting.  — The  line  runs  through  a 
level  wooded  country  to  (41/2  M.)  Boulder.,  at  the  foot  of  the  pass,  and  then 
begins  to  ascend  rapidly.  8V2  M.  Clifton;  14  M.  Glacier;  19  M.  Switchback. 
2OV2  M.  'White  Pass  (2600  ft.),  grandly  situated  at  the  head  of  the  pass  and 
commanding  a superb  view.  — We  here  reach  the  Canadian  frontier.  For 
details  of  the  descent  to  (40Y2  M.)  Bennett  (Rail.  Restaurant)  and  the  con- 
tinuation of  the  journey  to  (110  M.)  White  Horse  and  thence  (by  steamer) 
to  (450  M.)  Dawson  (90()0  inhab.),  the  capital  of  the  Yukon  District,  see 
Baedeker''s  Canada. 

We  now  return  to  the  S.  end  of  Lynn  Canal  and  then  bend  to  the 
right  (N.W.)  into  Icy  Strait.  Opening  off  this  to  the  right  is  ^Glacier 
Bay,  which  extends  to  the  N.  for  about  45  M.,  with  a width  contract- 
ing from  12  M.  to  3 M.  The  mountains  immediately  abutting  on  the 
bay  are  comparatively  low  (4000-7000  ft.),  but  as  we  ascend  it  we 
enjoy  a magnificent  **View  to  the  left  of  the  Fairweather  Range, 
including  (named  from  left  to  right)  Mt.  La  Perouse  (10,740  ft.), 
Mt.  Crillon  (15,900  ft.),  Mt.  Lituya  (11,830  ft.),  and  Mt.  Fair- 
weather  (15,290ft.).  At  the  head  of  the  bay  is  the  wonderful  **Muir 
Glacier,  the  visit  to  which  was,  prior  to  1899,  the  grandest  single 
feature  of  the  Alaskan  expedition.  An  earthquake  in  that  year, 
however,  changed  the  conditions  so  entirely,  by  disrupting  the 
glacier  and  filling  the  bay  with  ice,  that  the  steamer  cannot  now 
approach  nearer  than  a point  5-10  M.  from  the  face  of  the  glacier. 

This  stupendous  glacier,  throwing  the  large  ice-fields  of  Switzerland 
entirely  into  the  shade,  enters  the  sea  with  a front  IV2  M.  wide  and  150- 
2(X)  ft.  high,  probably  extending  700  ft.  below  the  water.  Nine  main  streams 
of  ice  unite  to  form  the  trunk  of  the  glacier, which  occupies  a vast  amphi- 
theatre, 30-40  M.  across.  Seventeen  smaller  arms  join  the  main  stream. 
The  width  of  the  glacier  when  it  breaks  through  the  mountains  {Pyramid 
Peak  to  theW.,  Mt.  Wright  and  Mt.  Case  to  the  E.)  to  descend  to  the  sea 
is  about  3 M.  The  superficial  area  of  the  glacier  is  350  sq.  M.,  or  about 
the  same  as  that  of  Huntingdonshire.  Dr.  John  Muir  was  the  first  to 
visit  the  glacier  (1879).  Prof.  G.  F.  Wright,  who  explored  the  glacier  in 
1886,  estimated  its  rate  of  movement  at  70  ft.  per  day  in  the  centre  and 


606  Route  105. 


SITKA. 


Alaska. 


10  ft.  at  tlie  sides  (an  average  of  40  ft.),  as  compared  with  1V2-3  ft.  at  the 
Mer  de  Glace,  but  Prof.  H.  F.  Reid,  of  the  Case  School  of  Applied  Science 
(p.  332),  who  spent  the  summers  of  1890  and  1892  here,  found  the  most 
rapid  movement  not  more  than  7 ft.  per  day.  In  August  about  200,000,000 
cubic  feet  of  ice  fall  into  the  inlet  daily.  Though  the  glacier  thus  moves 
forward  at  a comparatively  rapid  rate,  investigation  shows  that  it  loses 
more  ice  in  summer  than  it  gains  in  winter  and  that  its  front  is  retrogra- 
ding steadily  from  year  to  year.  It  is  evident  from  the  general  appearance 
of  the  enclosing  hills  that  the  ice-stream  once  occupied  the  whole  of  Glacier 
Bay^  and  numerous  features  of  the  moraines  and  adjacent  rocks  give  proof 
of  more  recent  retrocession.  Vancouver  found  the  bay  blocked  by  a wall 
of  ice  in  1794.  A visit  to  the  glacier  made  by  Mr.  C.  L.  Andrews  in  1903 
showed  that  it  had  receded  about  2V2  M.  since  1899  and  makes  it  ‘not  im- 
probable that  the  end  of  the  career  of  the  Muir  as  a tidewater  glacier  is  at 
hand’.  See  the  very  interesting  reports  (with  maps,  etc.)  of  Prof.  H.  F.  Reid’s 
two  expeditions  and  the  article  by  Mr.  Andrews  in  the ‘National  Geographic 
Magazine’  for  Dec.,  1903. 

The  nearest  way  from  Glacier  Bay  to  Sitka  would  he  through 
Cross  Sound  and  down  the  W.  side  of  Chicliag off  Island^  hut  to  avoid 
the  unpleasantness  of  an  outside  passage  the  steamer  usually  returns 
through  Icy  Strait  (p.  605)  and  Chatham  Sound  (p.  600).  About 
one-third  of  the  way  down  the  latter  we  diverge  to  the  right  through 
"^Feril  Strait^  between  the  islands  of  Chichag off  (N.)  rndBaranoff  (S.). 
This  strait  is  wide  at  first  but  ultimately  contracts  to  a width  of  t/2  M., 
where  its  wooded  hills  and  islets  recall  the  scenery  of  Loch  Lomond. 
As  we  approach  Sitka  we  have  a fine  view,  to  the  right,  of  Mt.  Edge- 
cumbe  (see  below),  with  its  crater  half  filled  with  snow. 

1420  m.  Sitka  {^Millmores  Hotels  $2)}  capital  of  Alaska 
and  seat  of  the  governor,  is  very  beautifully  situated  on  the  W.  side 
of  Baranoff  Island,  with  a fine  bay  dotted  with  green  islands  in  front 
and  a grand  range  of  snow-mountains  behind.  The  bay  is  sheltered 
by  Kruzoff  Island^  with  the  extinct  volcano  Mt.  Edgecumbe  (2800  ft.), 
while  immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  town  towers  Mt.  Verstovaia 
(3210ft.).  In  1900  Sitka  contained  1400  inhab.,  two-thirds  of  whom 
were  natives.  The  town  was  founded  in  1804  by  Alex.  Baranoff,  the 
first  Russian  governor  of  Alaska  (see  W.  Irving^s  ‘Astoria’).  Sitka 
lies  in  57®  N.  lat.,  and,  owing  to  the  Kuro  Siwo^  or  Japanese  current 
has  a milder  winter  climate  than  Boston,  in  spite  of  the  propinquity 
of  eternal  snow  (mean  summer  temp.  54®,  winter  32®).  The  tempera- 
ture seldom  falls  to  zero.  The  rainfall  is  high  (ca.  110  inches). 

On  a height  to  the  right  of  the  dock  (fine  view)  stand  the  ruins  of 
Baranoff  Castle^  the  former  residence  of  the  Russian  governors,  burned 
down  in  1894.  — Near  the  head  of  the  main  street,  leading  from  the 
wharf  into  the  town,  is  the  Russo-Greek  Church,  with  its  green  roof  and 
bulbous  spire,  which  contains  some  interesting  paintings  and  vestments 
(small  fee  charged  for  admission).  Many  of  the  natives  and  half-breeds 
are  members  of  the  Greek  church,  and  Sitka  is  the  seat  of  the  Orthodox 
Greek  bishop  of  the  United  States.  Several  of  the  substantial  old  Log 
Houses  of  the  Russians  are  still  in  use.  — Turning  to  the  right  at  the 
head  of  the  main  street  and  following  the  road  along  the  beach,  we  reach 
the  buildings  of  the  Presbyterian  Mission,  where  visitors  are  welcome.  The 
*Sitka  Museum,  a highly  interesting  collection  of  Alaskan  products,  is  in- 
stalled in  a building  in  the  mission-grounds,  fitted  up  like  the  dwelling  of 
a native  chief,  with  a totem-pole  at  the  entrance.  — By  passing  up  between 
these  buildings  we  reach  the  " Indian  River  Walk  (a  round  of  about  2 M.) 


Alaska. 


SITKA. 


105.  Route.  607 


where  the  visitor  with  preconceived  ideas  of  Sitka’s  arctic  climate  will 
be  surprised  to  find  luxuriant  vegetation,  fine  trees,  and  a brawling  brook, 
not  unlike  such  typical  English  walks  as  the  Torrent  Walk  at  Dolgelley. 
One  of  the  characteristic  plants  is  the  ‘Devil’s  Club’  (Echinopanax  horrida). 

The  Native  Village,  or  Bancherie.,  lies  to  the  left  of  the  wharf  and  is 
occupied  by  800-1000  Sitkans,  including  many  interesting  specimens  such 
as  ‘Mrs.  Tom’  and  ‘Sitka  Jack’,  who  are  always  at  home  to  steamboat 
visitors.  Tourists  occasionally  get  up  canoe  races  among  the  natives,  and 
exhibitions  of  native  dancing  are  often  arranged  for  their  benefit.  Behind 
the  village  is  the  native  and  Russian  cemetery. 

Native  curiosities  may  be  bought  at  Sitka  comparatively  cheap,  and  a 
Russian  samovar  may  still  occasionally  be  picked  up  here.  Travellers  should 
also  visit  the  office  of  the  Alaskan  (10  c.),  a weekly  paper. 

Sitka  is  the  turning-point  of  our  voyage,  and  we  now  retrace  tbe 
way  we  have  come  (via  Icy  Strait,  Chatham  Sound,  Frederick  Sound, 
etc.).  The  distance  to  Tacoma  is  about  1200  M.,  taking  5-6  days. 
As  a rule  few  stops  are  made  on  the  homeward  journey;  but  much 
fine  scenery,  previously  passed  at  night,  is  now  seen  by  daylight. 
Passengers  for  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  leave  the  steamer  at 
Victoria  and  proceed  thence  by  a smaller  steamer  to  Vancouver  (see 
BaedekeVs  Handbook  to  Canada). 

Tourists  who  wish  to  go  farther  to  the  N.  may  avail  themselves  of  the 
Alaska  Commercial  Cg.'’s  steamer,  which  leaves  Sitka  for  XJnalaska  about  the 
8th  day  of  each  month  while  navigation  is  open  (round  trip  of  2500  M.,  taking 
about  a month;  fare  $ 120).  This  excursion  affords  splendid  views  of  the 
St.  Elias  Alps  and  the  enormous  glaciers  of  the  Alaska  mainland.  The  sea  is 
generally  smooth  in  summer.  Holders  of  return-tickets  of  the  Pacific  Coast 
Steamship  Co.  are  entitled  to  stop  over  at  Sitka  and  return  by  a later  steamer. 
Stemers  of  the  Alaska  Pacific  Navigation  Co.  also  ply  from  Seattle  to  Sitka 
and  XJnalaska. 

Steamers  now  run  regularly  from  Seattle  (9  days)  and  other  ports  to 
Nome  (Hotels).,  near  Cape  Rodney.,  about  800  M.  to  the  N.  of  XJnalaska.  This 
is  the  headquarters  of  a district  in  which  large  quantities  of  gold  have 
been  discovered  [since  1898  and  is  the  largest  town  in  Alaska  containing 
12,488  inhab.  in  1900.  It  communicates  by  small  steamers,  with  (180  M.) 
St.  MicJiaeVs.,  a U.  S.  military  post  on  Norton  Sound,  whence  river-steamers 
ascend  the  Yukon  to  (1650  M.)  Dawson  (see  p.  605  and  Baedeker'' s Canada).  — 
Other  steamers  ply  to  Valdez.,  at  the  head  of  Prince  William  Sound,  the 
outlet  of  a copper-mining  region. 

Mt.  Logan  (19,539  ft.),  for  a time  believed  to  be  the  highest  mountain  in 
N.Amerika,  is  situated  in  Canada,  just  beyond  the  Alaskan  frontier,  to  the  N. 
of  60®  N.  lat.  and  about  45  M.  from  the  coast.  A little  to  the  W.  of  it  is 
Mt.  St.  Elias  (18,024  ft.),  first  ascended  by  Prince  Luigi  of  Savoy  in  1897. 
These  mountains  are  nearly  300  M.  to  the  W.  N.  W.  of  Glacier  Bay  (p.  605) 
and  are  not  visible  on  any  part  of  the  trip  a.bove  described.  — Mt.  McKinley 
(20, 300ft.),  the  real  monarch  of  N.  American  mountains,  rises  in  Alaska  about 
300  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  international  boundary  and  about  130  M.  to  the  N.  of 
Cook  Inlet,  in  ca.  63°  N.  latitude.  It  stands  at  the  watershed  of  the  Yukon 
(see  above),  XhclKuskokewim,  and  the  Susheina,  the  three  greatest  rivers  of 
Alaska,  and  presents  on  every  side  a succession  of  granite  cliffs  and  over- 
hanging glaciers.  The  largest  of  the  latter  are  the  FidHe  and  Ruth  Glaciers, 
on  the  E.  slope,  and  the  Hanna  Glacier,  on  the  W.  On  the  W.  Mt.  McKinley 
rises  abruptly  out  of  a low  marshy  country,  abounding  in  big  game,  but  on 
the  E.  it  is  screened  by  a belt  of  mountains  12,000  ft.  in  height.  From  the 
S.E.  it  appears  like  ‘a  great  bee-hive,  weighted  down  with  all  the  snow  it 
can  possibly  carry.  Aside  from  its  great  height,  Mt.  McKinley  is  remark- 
able in  being  the  steepest  and  the  most  arctic  of  the  great  mountains  of 
the  world’.  Mt.  McKinley  has  never  been  surmounted;  the  highest  point 
yet  reached  (ca.  11,0C0  ft.)  was  attained  by  Dr.  Ferd.  A.  Cook  in  1903. 


608 


MEXICO. 


The  Republic  of  Mexico , occupying  the  S.  part  of  N.  America, 
consists  of  a confederation  of  27  States,  two  Territories,  and  a Federal 
District  (in  which  is  situated  the  city  of  Mexico).  Its  total  area  is  about 
770,000  sq.  M.  and  its  population  in  1900  was  13,545,462.  About  80  per  cent  of 
the  inhabitants  a.re  of  pure  or  mixed  Indian  blood,  and  only  20  per  cent 
belong  to  the  Spanish  and  other  Caucasian  races.  With  the  exception  of  the 
flat  and  narrow  strips  along  the  coasts  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  the  country  consists  of  a huge  table-land  bounded  on  each  side  by 
mountain-ranges,  forming  the  N.  prolongation  of  the  Andes.  The  main 
range,  bounding  the  W.  side  of  the  table-land,  is  named  the  Sierra  Madre. 
The  Central  Mexican  Plateau  has  a mean  elevation  of  about  6000  ft. 

Approaches.  Plan  and  Season  of  Tour.  Since  the  opening  of  the 
railways  described  in  RR.  106-109,  an  excursion  into  Mexico  can  be  easily 
added  to  a visit  to  the  S.  part  of  the  United  States  , and  affords  a survey 
of  so  novel  and  picturesque  a civilisation  as  amply  to  repay  the  time  and 
trouble.  Three  weeks  will  suffice  for  the  journey  to  and  from  the  City  of 
Mexico,  with  halts  at  many  interesting  places  on  the  way,  and  also  for 
trips  from  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Orizaba  (or  even  Vera  Cruz),  Puebla, 
and  Oaxaca  (Mitla).  This  excursion  involves  no  serious  hardships  and  is 
constantly  made  by  ladies;  but  those  who  wish  to  visit  the  interesting 
remains  of  Yucatan  and  Chiapas  must  be  prepared  to  give  more  time  and 
labour.  The  Mexican  plateau  may  be  visited  at  any  season,  and  is,  per- 
haps, at  its  pleasantest  from  June  to  Sept.,  when  the  dust  is  abated  by  the 
summer  rains.  For  a general  tour,  however,  winter  or  early  spring  is  pre- 
ferable; and  March  or  April  will  be  found  as  good  months  as  any.  Fairly 
light  clothing  is  desirable  for  the  heat  of  the  day,  but  wraps  should  be  at 
hand  for  the  cool  evenings  and  mornings.  The  rarefied  air  of  the  Mexican 
plateau  is  sometimes  found  rather  trying  at  first.  Those  who  intend  to 
use  the  steamer  (comp.  p.  625)  in  one  direction  are  advised  to  take  it  in 
going  rather  than  in  returning. 

Travellers  who  do  not  speak  Spanish  cannot  do  better  than  join  one 
of  the  Raymond  and  Whitcomb  Parties  (see  p.  xxvi),  which  visit  Mexico  in 
winter  and  spring.  Their  usual  route  is  from  Eagle  Pass  to  the  City  of 
Mexico  (R.  107),  and  thence  back  to  El  Paso  (R.  108),  with  excursions  to 
Orizaba  (R.  110),  Tampico  (p.  615),  etc.  The  parties  travel  on  a special 
vestibuled  train,  which  serves  them  as  their  hotel  (except  in  the  City  of 
Mexico)  and  has  the  additional  advantage  of  reaching  and  leaving  the 
stopping-places  at  convenient  hours.  Interpreters  accompany  each  party. 

Railways,  etc.  English  is  generally  understood  at  the  railway  ticket- 
offices  of  the  larger  towns  and  by  the  conductors  of  the  through -trains. 
Time-tables  and  ‘folders'  are  also  issued  in  English.  The  visitor  to  the 
parts  of  Mexico  described  below  will  scarcely  come  into  contact  with  the 
system  of  Diligences.  Most  of  the  cities  have  complete  systems  of  Tram- 
ways (drawn  by  mules),  all  with  first-class  and  second-class  cars.  The 
tramways  sometimes  connect  places  10-70  M.  apart. 

Hotels.  Mexican  hotels  are  apt  to  be  poor,  and  their  sanitary  arrange- 
ments leave  much  to  be  desired.  The  ordinary  charges  are  $2-2V2  per 
day  (higher  in  the  City  of  Mexico).  The  place  of  chambermaids  is  usually 
taken  by  ‘Mozos',  or  boys.  Small  fees  are  expected  and  efficacious.  Neither 
soap  nor  matches  are  provided  in  the  bedrooms.  Wine  and  foreign  beer 
are  dear,  native  beer  and  pulque  (p.  617)  cheap. 

Passports.  Custom  , House.  Passports  are  not  necessary  in  Mexico, 
but  may  sometimes  prove  convenient.  The  custom-house  examination  is 
generally  conducted  courteously  and  leniently,  and  scarcely  concerns  things 
likely  to  be  in  the  possession  of  the  ordinary  tourist.  Articles  purchased 
in  Mexico  are  often  liable  to  duty  at  the  American  frontier. 

Money.  Expenses.  The  legal  unit  of  the  Mexican  monetary  system 
is  the  Peso  (dollar),  divided  into  100  Centavos  (cents).  The  old  expressions 
Medio  (6V2C.)  and  Real  (pi.  Reales;  I21/2C.)  are  still  in  constant  use,  though 
the  coins  they  represent  no  longer  circulate  {dos  reales  = 25  c.  cuairo 


MONTEREY. 


106.  Route.  609 


reales  = 60c. , seis  reales  = 75  c.,  ocTio  reales  — $1).  — The  cost  of  a 
short  tour  in  Mexico  should  not  exceed  $8-10  a day.  A Mexican  dollar 
is  generally  worth  about  50  c.  American  gold.  Mexican  money  may  be 
bought  cheaply  in  New  York,  but  a fair  rate  of  exchange  can  be  obtained 
in  the  City  of  Mexico.  American  money  may  also  be  exchanged  at  the 
frontier.  Drafts  on  New  York  banks  are  a good  form  in  which  to  carry 
large  sums,  and  realize  the  highest  rate  of  exchange  in  the  City  of  Mexico. 

Language,  A slight  acquaintance  with  Spanish  will  be  found  of  great 
service  in  travelling  in  Mexico.  Vowels  have  the  pronunciation  of  Con- 
tinental Europe  ^ consonants  are  pronounced  as  in  English,  with  the  follow- 
ing exceptions : c before  e and  i rounds  like  th  in  thin,  before  a,  o,  u,  1,  r, 
and  at  the  end  of  a word  = k •,  g before  e and  i = guttural  h ; h is  silent  5 
11  = ly  ^ j = ch  in  loch ; z = th  in  then.  It  should  be  noted  that  Mexican 
pronunciation  is  not  quite  identical  with  that  of  Spain.  The  transliterations 
in  these  pages  do  not  claim  to  be  more  than  approximately  accurate. 

Postal  Arrangements.  A list  of  the  insufficiently  addressed  letters 
received  by  each  mail  is  usually  exhibited  at  the  post-office,  and  in 
applying  for  one  of  these  it  is  necessary  to  show  a visiting  card  or  some 
simular  identification.  Letters  addressed  to  the  large  hotels  in  the  City 
of  Mexico  are  delivered  at  the  hotel-office.  The  postal  rates  for  domestic 
letters  and  for  those  to  the  U.  S.  A.  or  Canada  is  5 c.  per  1/2  oz.,  for  letters 
to  other  countries  of  the  Postal  Union  10  c.  per  ^2  oz.  Letters  from  the 
U.  S.  to  Mexico  are  sent  at  the  U.  S.  domestic  rate  (2  c.  per  oz.). 

Bull  Fights  may  still  sometimes  be  seen.  Persons  of  delicate  sensi- 
bilities will,  however,  do  well  to  avoid  these  degrading  and  disgusting 
spectacles. 

Bibliography.  Mexican  guidebooks  are  published  by  Scribner’s  Sons, 
Appleton,  and  Hoeck  (p.  618).  The  traveller  should  be  familiar  with  Pres- 
cotVs  ‘Conquest  of  Mexico’.  Other  works  include  those  by  David  A.  Wells^ 
F.  A.  Oher.,  Mafias  Romero  (‘Statistical  Notes  on  Mexico’ ; 1898),  A.  H.  Noll 
(‘From  Empire  to  Eepublic’  and  ‘Short  History  of  Mexico’ ; 1903),  Mrs.  Alec 
Tweedie  (‘Mexico  as  I Saw  it’ 5 1902),  and  G.  F.  Lummis  (‘The  Awakening 
of  a Nation’^  1898).  Gen.  Lew  Wallace's  ‘The  Fair  God’  and  H.  Rider  Hag- 
gard’'s ‘Moctezuma’s  Daughter’  are  stories  of  Mexican  life.  For  the  anti- 
quities, see  ‘Report  of  an  Arch  geological  Tour  in  Mexico  in  1831’,  by  A. 
F.  A.  Bandelier. 


106,  From  Laredo  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

837  M.  (804  M.  by  the  direct  line ; see  p.  611)  National  Railroad  of 
Mexico  (Ferrocarril  Nacional  de  Mexico)  in  33V2  hrs.  (fare  $31.23,  U.  S. 
currency;  sleeper  $9,  Mexican  currency). 

This  line  affords  the  shortest  and  most  direct  route  to  the  City  of 
Mexico  (from  New  Orleans  1525  M.  by  the  direct  line,  from  St.  Louis 
1878  M.)  and  passes  through  fine  scenery.  Baggage  from  the  United  States 
should  be  ‘checked’  to  New  Laredo,  where  the  Mexican  custom-house 
examination  takes  place  and  luggage  is  re-checked. 

Laredo^  see  p.  592.  Tbe  train  crosses  tlie  Rio  Grande  del  Norte 
into  Mexico  and  halts  at  (1  M.)  Nuevo  Laredo  or  New  Laredo  (440  ft. ; 
see  above;  U.  S.  Con.,  A.  B.  (jarrett),  a place  of  8000  inhabitants. 
The  first  part  of  the  journey  lies  through  a dreary  plain  of  cactus 
and  mezquite.  To  the  right,  beyond  (72  M.)  Lampazos  (1030  ft. ; 
Kail.  Restaurant),  rises  the  Mesa  de  los  Catujanos  (1500-2000  ft.). 
— 109  M.  Villaldama. 

167  M.  Monterey  (1790  ft.;  Hidalgo^  Iturhide^  $272“3Y2i  U-  S. 
Consul  (jreneral,  Philip  C.  Hanna),  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Nuevo 
Leon,  a city  of  (1900)  62,266  inhab.,  situated  in  a beautiful  valley, 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3r(l  Edit.  39 


610  Route  106. 


SAN  LUIS  POTOSI,  From  Laredo  to 


between  the  Cerro  de  la  Silla  (4150  ft.)  on  the  E.  and  the  Cerro  de 
la  Mitra  (3620  ft.)  on  the  W.,  is  frequented  as  a winter-resort.  It 
is  the  most  important  manufacturing  city  of  N.  Mexico , its  manu- 
factures being  chiefly  connected  with  mining,  and  possesses  the  first 
steel-works  established  in  the  Republic.  The  picturesque  Episcopal 
Palace,  built  in  1782,  is  now  occupied  by  troops.  The  Topo  Chico 
Hot  Springs  (Hotel,  $21/2)  lie  3 M.  to  the  N.W.,  on  the  branch- 
railway to  (72  M.)  Reata,  also  a station  on  the  line  from  Diaz  to 
Durango  (p.  613).  At  Monterey  we  cross  the  railway  from  Torreon 
to  Tampico  (see  p.  614). 

Beyond  Monterey  the  train  ascends  through  the  narrow  valley  of 
the  San  Juan,  amid  grand  mountain-scenery  (to  the  right,  the  Sierra 
de  la  Paila;  to  the  left,  the  Sierra  Madre,  p.  608).  Just  short  of 
(174  M.)  Santa  Catarina  a remarkable  circular  opening  through  the 
mountain  is  seen  to  the  left,  at  an  elevation  of  3000  ft.  At  (187  M.) 
Garcia  are  some  interesting  caves.  — 234  M.  Saltillo  (5200  ft. ; Coa- 
huila,  $21/2;  Restaurant,  D.  $ 1 ; U.  S.  Con.,  V.  L.  Duhaime), 
the  capital  of  Coahuila,  with  (1900)  23,996  inhab.,  was  formerly 
famous  for  its  manufacture  of  zarapes  (Mexican  blankets),  now, 
apparently,  a lost  art.  Branch-lines  run  hence  to  the  W.  to  (190  M.) 
Torredn  (see  p.  614),  and  to  the  S.  to  (78  M.)  Concepcidn  de  Oro, 
the  centre  of  a rich  copper- mining  district.  — Beyond  Saltillo  we 
cross  the  battlefield  of  Buena  Vista  (Feb.  23rd,  1847).  At  (258  M.) 
Carneros  (6500  ft.)  we  reach  the  top  of  the  central  plateau  of  Mexico 
(p.  608).  The  line  descends  a little  and  runs  in  a straight  direction 
across  a level  plain.  • — 353  M.  Vanegas  is  the  junction  of  a branch- 
line to  (15  M.)  Cedral  and  (28  M.)  Matehuala  (Hotel  Angelina), 
a small  town  of  (1900)  15,060  inhabitants.  — 366  M.  Catorce  (Rail. 
Restaurant,  meals  $ 1)  is  the  station  for  the  (8  M.)  rich  silver-mining 
town  of  the  same  name.  A little  farther  on  we  cross  the  Tropic  of 
Cancer  and  enter  the  Torrid  Zone  (pyramid  to  the  right). 

476  M.  San  Luis  Potosi  (6120  ft.;  Grand,  Progreso,  Louisville 
Ho.,  $ 21/2 ; Pail.  Restaurant,  meals  $ 1 ; U.  S.  Con.  Agent),  capital 
of  the  state  of  the  same  name,  a city  of  (1900)  61,019  inhab.,  owes 
its  importance  to  the  rich  silver-mines  in  its  vicinity. 

The  city  is  clean  and  well  kept.  Among  the  chief  points  of  interest  are 
tl  e Cathedral  (with  a clock  given  by  Philip  II.  of  Spain),  the  Mint,  the 
Alameda  (with  statue  of  Hidalgo,  see  below),  the  Plaza  Mayor,  i\i.Q  Markets, 
the  Governor  s Palace,  the  City  Hall,  the  Palace  of  Justice,  and  several 
Churches.^  The  San  Pedro  Mine  should  be  visited.  — Railways  run  hence 
to  Tampico  (p.  615),  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  to  Aguascalientes  (p.  615). 
A branch- line  is  also  being  built  to  Rio  Verde  and  is  already  in  use  as 
far  as  (38  M.)  Ahuacatal. 

From  (557  M.)  Rincon  a branch-line  runs  past  (32  M.)  San  Luis 
de  la  Paz,  a small  mining-town  with  9747  inhab.,  to  (37  M.)  Pozos. 
— 562  M.  Dolores  Hidalgo  is  named  in  honour  of  the  patriot  Hidalgo 
(p.  613),  who  was  cure  of  this  parish. — 584  M.  San  Miguel  deAllende 
(6035  ft.;  Allende,  $2;  Rail.  Restaurant),  a city  of  12,740  inhab., 
at  the  base  of  the  Cerro  de  Montezuma,  contains  several  interesting 


the  City  of  Mexico. 


TOLUCA. 


106.  Route.  611 


churclies  and  excellent  public  baths.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
patriot  Allende  (p.  613),  for  whom  it  is  named.  — At  (607  M.) 
Gonzalez  Junction  (Empalme  Gonzalez)  the  line  divides.  The  through- 
carriages  proceed  by  the  E.  and  shorter  branch  (main  standard- 
gauge),  which  runs  via  (635  M.)  Queretaro  (also  a station  on  the 
Mexican  Central  Railway,  seep.  616);  Huichapan  (703  M.),  pic- 
turesquely situated  in  a beautiful  valley,  with  a fine  church ; No- 
pala  (713M.);  Hueliuetoca  and  Tacula  (72SM.)  to  (804M.) 

the  City  of  Mexico  (^Colonia  Station;  see  p.  617). 

The  longerbut  more  interesting  W.  branch  (narrow-gauge)  follows 
the  valley  of  the  Laja  (views  to  the  right).  Farther  on  the  vege- 
tation becomes  more  tropical.  — 618  M.  Celaya  (5770  ft.;  Central, 
Universal),  a city  of  25,565  inhab.,  at  the  intersection  of  the  Mexi- 
can National  and  Mexican  Central  railways  (comp.  p.  616),  is  a place 
of  some  importance,  with  fine  old  churches  (Owr  Lady  of  Carmen^ 
etc.)  and  good  baths.  Dulces  (sweetmeats;  15-50  c.  per  box), 
strawberries,  and  opals  are  offered  for  sale  at  the  station.  — 642  M. 
Salvatierra  (De  la  Luz),  with  (1900)  11,008  inhab.  and  many 
churches  conspicuous  by  the  glazed  tiling  of  their  domes.  — 660  M. 
Acdmbaro  (6085  ft. ; Rail.  Hotel  & Restaurant),  with  8006  inhab. 

A branch -line  runs  hence  via  (57  M.)  Morelia  (several  hotels),  with 
37,278  inhab.,  and  (95  M.)  Pdtzcuaro  (6985  ft.;  several  hotels),  with  7210 
inhab.,  situated  on  a beautiful  lake,  to  (143  M.)  Vruapan  (9859  inhab.), 
whence  it  is  to  be  extended  to  the  Pacific  coast.  On  the  shores  of  Lake  Patz- 
cuaro  stand  the  remains  of  the  old  city  of  Tzintziintzan  (reached  by  canoe 
from  Patzcuaro  in  3-6  hrs.),  once  the  capital  of  the  empire  of  Tarasco, 
with  an  old  church  containing  an  Entombment  ascribed  to  Titian  and  said 
to  have  been  presented  by  Philip  II.  of  Spain. 

Our  line  now  turns  to  the  S.E.  (left)  and  ascends  through  the 
valley  of  the  Lerma  (views  to  the  left).  698  M.  Maravatio  (6610  ft. ; 
several  hotels)  is  the  junction  of  a line  to  (56  M.)  Zitdcuara.  — 
721  M.  Tepetongo  (7650  ft.);  751  M.  Flor  de  Maria  (8500  ft. ; Rail. 
Restaurant,  meals  $ 1),  We  thread  a tunnel  and  enter  the  Valley  of 
Toluca, 

792  M.  Toluca  (Leon  d’Oro,  R.  from  75  c.;  Andueza^  $2Y2“3y2j 
with  electric  light  and  a restaurant;  Gran  Sociedad,  R.  from  75  c.), 
the  capital  of  the  State  of  Mexico.^  is  a prosperous  and  clean-looking 
city  of  (1900)  25,940  inhab.,  splendidly  situated  in  a fertile  valley, 
among  lofty  mountains,  at  a height  of  8650  ft.  above  the  sea.  Its 
attractions  include  the  State  Buildings fine  Markets,  interesting 
Churches,  and  quaint  Por/a/es;  while  linen  ‘drawn-work’,  pottery, 
and  other  souvenirs  may  be  purchased. 

Toluca  is  the  junction  of  lines  to  (10  M.)  San  Juan  de  las  Huertas  and 
to  (19  M.)  Atla,  via  (5^2  M.)  Tenango. 

The  ascent  of  the  '"Nevado  de  Toluca  (15,155  ft.),  a snow-clad  volcanic 
mountain  rising  to  the  S.,  takes  about  two  days  (there  and  back).  The 
view  is  superb. 

The  run  from  Toluca  to  Mexico  reveals  some  of  the  finest  scenery 
in  Mexico,  if  not  in  the  world.  The  train  runs  towards  the  E.  and 

39* 


612  Eoute  107. 


EAGLE  PASS. 


beyond  the  Indian  town  of  Ocoyoacacj  seen  far  below  us  to  the 
right,  begins  to  ascend  the  La  Cruz  Mts.  (Sierra  Madre;  views 
to  the  right).  We  follow  the  windings  of  the  Eio  Lerma.  To  the 
right  towers  the  Nevada  de  Toluca  (p.  611).  805  M.  Jajalpa 

(‘Hahalpa’  5 8870  ft).  Much  maguey  (see  p.  617)  is  cultivated  in  this 
district  811  M.  Salazar.  At  (812  M.)  La  Cima  (10,200  ft.)  we  reach 
the  summit  and  begin  the  descent,  obtaining  magnificent  ** Views 
of  the  Valley  of  Mexico^  with  its  lakes,  the  City  of  Mexico  in  the 
centre,  and  the  grand  snow-clad  volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl  (r.)  and 
Ixtaccihuatl  (1. ; see  p.  622)  in  the  background.  At  (820  M.)  Dos 
Rios  we  cross  the  Rio  Hondo  by  a lofty  trestle.  Numerous  lateral 
ravines  (harrancas)  are  also  crossed.  Farther  on,  Chapultepec  (p.621) 
is  conspicuous  to  the  right.  831  M.  Naucalpan.  Beyond  (834  M.) 
Tacula  the  tree  of  the  Noche  Triste  (p.  621)  is  seen  to  the  left. 

837  M.  City  of  Mexico  (Colonia  Station)^  see  p.  617. 


107.  From  Eagle  Pass  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1090  M.  Mexican  International  Railroad  (Ferrocarril  Internacional 
Mexicano)  in  4272  hrs.  (fare  $ 51.81,  limited  $ 31.25,  sleeper  $ 9 \ from  Spof- 
ford  Junction  $32.30,  New  Orleans  $52.70,  New  York  $85.20).  Baggage  is 
examined  and  re-cliecked  at  Ciudad  Porfirio  Diaz. 

Eagle  Pass^  a small  town  of  3000  inhab.,  lies  on  the  N.  or  Amer- 
ican bank  of  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte  (see  p.  590).  The  train  crosses 
the  river  by  an  iron  bridge,  310  yds.  long,  and  halts  at  Ciudad  Por- 
firio Diaz,  formerly  called  Piedras  Negras  (720  ft. ; Hotels ; U.S.  Consul, 
Lewis  A.  Martin),  a Mexican  city  of  (1900)  13,468  inhab.,  in  the 
State  of  Coahuila.  Picturesque  Mexican  figures,  the  men  in  sombreros 
and  scarlet  zarapes,  the  women  in  blue  rebozos,  appear  at  once.  — 
The  train  ascends  steadily  towards  the  great  Mexican  table-land 
(p.  608),  traversing  at  first  an  arid  and  monotonous  desert.  Few 
houses  are  seen  except  an  occasional  hacienda,  of  stone  or  adobe, 
and  little  vegetation  except  yuccas,  mezquite,  and  cacti.  25  M.  Nava 
(1065  ft.);  32  M.  Allende  (1230  ft.);  51  M.  Peyotes  (1595  ft.); 
721/2  M.  Sabinas  (1115  ft. ; Hotel  del  Ferrocarril),  in  a coal-producing 
district,  the  junction  of  a line  to  (14  M.)  Hondo  ^ 82  M.  Soledad 
(1215  ft.);  98  M.  Aura  (1485  ft.);  123  M.  Hermanas  (1300  ft.). 
148  M.  Monclova  (1925ft.;  Rail.  Hotel  and  Restaurant;  14,580  in- 
hab.), the  junction  of  a line  to  (42  M.)  Cuatro  Cieneges ; 159  M. 
Castano  (2455  ft.);  181  M.  Bajan  (2765ft.).  From  (211  M.)  Reata 
(2950  ft.)  a branch-line  runs  to  (72  M.)  Monterey,  on  the  Mexican 
National  R.  R.  (see  p.  609).  — 223  M.  Trevino  (2920  ft.;  Robles). 

At  (2541/2  M.)  Jaral  (3750  ft. ; Rail.  Restaurant),  where  we  may 
be  said  to  have  fairly  reached  the  greatMexican  plateau,  the  line  turns 
to  the  right  (W.)  and  now  runs  at  nearly  the  same  level.  — 297  M. 
Paila  (3900ft.);  33472 M.  Bola  (3575ft.),  at  the  S.  end  of  the  large 
Laguna  de  Parras.  350  M.  Hornos  (3595  ft.),  t\i%  junction  for  (14  M.) 


CHIHUAHUA. 


108.  Route.  613 


San  Pedro  (several  hotels;  8997 inhah.);  369  M.  Matamoros (BQ60  ft. ; 
U.  S.  Consul,  P.  M.  Griffith)^  the  junction  of  a hranch-liiie  to 
(431/2  M.)  Ttahualilo. 

At  (383  M.)  Torreon  (3720  ft. ; p.  614)  we  join  the  Mexican 
Central  Railway.  — To  the  (1090  M.)  City  of  Mexico,  see  R.  108. 

The  Mexican  International  Railroad  goes  on  to  (540  M.  from  Eagle  Pass) 
Durango  (31.092  inhah.  in  1900;  several  hotels;  U.  S.  Con.,  J.  A.  Leroy\ 
the  capital  of  the  state  of  its  own  name,  at  the  foot  of  the  ferriferous 
Gerro  de  Mercado.  — A railway  runs  hence  to  the  N.W.  to  (3^  M.)  Canatlan., 
(103  M.)  Santiago  Papasquiaro.^  and  (135  M.)  Tepehuanes. 


108.  From  El  Paso  to  the  City  of  Mexico. 

1224  M.  Mexican  Centkal  Railway  (Ferrocarril  Central  Mexicano)  in 
46  hrs.  (fare  $60.41  Mex.  currency;  sleeper  $9;  return-tickets,  valid  for 
9 months,  to  City  of  Mexico,  from  St.  Louis  $76.15,  from  Kansas  City  $72.10, 
from  New  Orleans  $ 63.75,  all  U.  S.  currency).  Side-trip  tickets  are  issued, 
to  holders  of  thro  ugh- tickets  to  California,  from  El  Paso  to  Mexico  and 
back  to  Eagle  Pass  via  R.  107,  or  vice  versa,  $40).  This  line  is  the  direct 
route  between  the  City  of  Mexico  and  California  and  the  West  (comp. 
R.  103).  Baggage  is  re-checked  and  examined  at  Ciudad  Juarez  (comp.  p.  612). 

El  PasOj  see  p.  589.  The  train  crosses  the  Rio  Grande  to  (3/4  M.) 
Ciudad  Juarez  (‘Wahrez’),  formerly  Puso  del  Norte  (3800  ft. ; Rail. 
Restaurant;  U.  S.  Con.,  C.  W.  Kindriclc),  with  the  Mexican  custom- 
house, an  interesting  old  church,  and  a statue  of  Juarez  (p.  620). 

A railway,  opened  in  1898,  runs  hence  to  the  S.W.  to  (149  M.)  Casas 
Orandes  and  (155  M.)  Terrazas. 

Our  route  at  first  lies  through  the  State  of  Chihuahua  (‘Ohee- 
wah-wah’)  and  offers  little  of  interest.  30  M.  Samalayuca  (4300  ft.)  ; 
95  M.  Ojo  Caliente  (4090ft.) ; 112  M.  Moctezuma  (Rail.  Restaurant); 
139  M.  Gallego  (5450  ft.)  ; 194  M.  Sauz  (5170  ft.).  We  cross  the 
Chuhiscar  to  — 

225  M.  CMhuahua  (4635  ft.;  Casa  Robinson^  $2i/2'"3;  Palacio, 
$2-272  5 tramway;  U.  S.  Con.,  W.  W.  Mills').,  the  capital  of  the  state 
of  that  name,  a busy  city  with  (1900)  30,098  inhah.,  in  a hill-girt 
plain.  It  was  founded  in  1539. 

The  chief  object  of  interest  is  the  fine  "Parroquia,  or  parish-church, 
dating  from  1711-89.  Behind  the  Banco  Minero  Ghihuahuense  is  a monument 
marking  the  spot  where  Miguel  Hidalgo  and  Ignacio  Allende.,  leaders  of 
the  revolution  of  1810,  were  executed  in  1811.  The  patriots  were  previously 
mprisoned  in  the  Casa  de  Moneda  (Mint).  The  Plaza  and  Alamedas  are 
pleasant,  and  the  old  Aqueduct  is  interesting.  — A day's  excursion  may 
be  made  to  the  Santa  Eulalia  Silver  Mines.,  which  are  said  to  produce  an 
average  of  20,000  tons  of  ore  monthly.  Railway  to  (15  M.)  Santa  Eulalia 
in  1 hr.  — Another  railway  runs  to  the  W.,  past  (51  M.)  San  Andres  and 
(83  M.)  San  Antonio.,  to  (121  M.)  Minaca. 

Beyond  Chihuahua  the  line  descends.  We  cross  the  Rio  Sta.  Cruz 
at  (279  M.)  Ortiz.,  and  the  Rio  Nonoava  near  (326  M.)  Santa  Rosalia 
(4020  ft.;  8909  inhah.),  with  hot  springs.  — 371  M.  Jimenez 
(‘Heemenez’ ; 4530  ft. ; Rail.  Restaurant)  is  a city  of  9322  inhah. 
on  the  Florida.,  the  junction  of  a railway  to  (56  M.)  Parral.,  a town 
of  16.382  inhah.,  the  centre  of  a rich  mining-region,  (67  M.)  Adridn, 


614  Boute  108. 


ZACATECAS. 


From  El  Paso  to 


and  (97  M.)  Rosario.  The  dust  on  this  part  of  the  route  is  very  trying. 
From  (417  M.)  Escalon  the  Mexican  Northern  Railway  runs  to  (78  M.) 
the  great  silver-mining  district  of  Sierra  Mojada.  — Near  (437  M.) 
Cehallos  (3900  ft.)  we  enter  the  State  of  Durango,  We  now  traverse 
the  Mapimi  Basin,  in  which  cotton,  sugar,  maize,  and  wheat  are 
produced,  and  cross  the  Rio  Nazas. 

519  M.  Torreon  (3720ft.;  Rail. Restaurant;  several  hotels;  U.  S. 
Consular  Agent),  a town  of  13,845  inhab.,  with  cotton-mills  and  a 
soap-factory,  is  the  junction  of  the  Mexican  International  Railway 
(R.  107).  An  electric  railway  runs  hence  to  (3  M.)  Lerdo  (3725  ft.), 
a cotton-trading  place  of  17,795  inhabitants. 

From  Torreon  to  Monterey  and  Tampico,  551  M.,  Central  Railway  in 
363/4  hrs.  (spending  the  night  at  Monterey).  — 42  M.  San  Pedro  (see  p.  613); 
141  M.  Hipolito;  229  M.  Monterey  (p.  609);  2S2  M.  San  Juan;  320  M.  Linares 
(pop.  7076);  405  M.  Victoria  (America),  capital  of  the  state  of  Tamaulipas. 
with  (1900)  10,086  inhab  ; 490  M.  Gonzalez.  — 551  M.  Tampico,  see  p.  615. 

From  Torreon  to  Saltillo,  190  M.,  Ferrocarril  Coahuila  y Pacifico  in 
141/2  hrs.  — 34  M.  Hornos  (see  p.  612);  90  M.  Parras  (Rail.  Restaurant; 
pop.  6476) ; 148  M.  General  Gepeda.  — 190  M.  Saltillo,  see  p.  610. 

The  country  traversed  beyond  Torreon  is  arid  and  sterile,  and 
sand-spouts  are  frequently  seen.  The  mountains  become  higher,  one 
near  (562  M.)  Jimulco  reaching  a height  of  10,280  ft.  Numerous 
large  haciendas  are  passed.  The  train  ascends  steadily  towards  the 
top  of  the  great  central  plateau  of  Mexico  (p.  608).  614  M.  Symon 
(5145  ft.).  At  (642  M.)  Camacho  (5400  ft. ; Rail.  Restaurant)  we 
enter  the  State  of  Zacatecas.  680  M.  Pacheco  ; 700  M.  La  Colorada 
(6000  ft.);  750  M.  Fresnillo  (6860  ft.).  Beyond  (768  M.)  Calera 
(7050  ft.)  we  begin  to  ascend  rapidly  and  the  scenery  becomes  very 
picturesque. 

785  M.  Zacatecas  (8045  ft.;  Zacatecano,  $2;  U.  S.  Consular 
Agent),  a city  of  (1900)  32,856  inhab.,  romantically  situated  in  a 
narrow  ravine,  offers  several  points  of  interest  to  the  stranger.  It  is 
still  one  of  the  centres  of  the  silver-mining  of  Mexico , though  its 
produce  has  of  late  fallen  off. 

The  Market  Place.,  in  the  centre  of  the  city  (reached  from  the  railway 
station  by  tramway),  presents  a very  picturesque  appearance , with  its 
large  fountain,  whence  the  water-carriers  fetch  their  supplies  for  the  city’s 
use.  Near  by  is  the  Cathedral  (1612-1752),  with  an  elaborately  carved 
"Facade.  The  Municipal  Palace  (with  its  attractive  court-yard)  and  the 
Mint  are  also  within  easy  reach.  — A visit  may  be  paid  to  one  of  the 
Silver  Reduction  Works,  in  which  the  processes  of  reducing  the  ore  are 
carried  on  after  a highly  primitive  fashion,  but  a visit  to  a silver-mine 
is  more  conveniently  managed  at  Guanajuato  (p.  616).  — A splendid 
*View  is  obtained  from  the  Bufa,  a mass  of  porphyry  rising  5(X)  ft.  above 
the  city  and  crowned  with  a small  chapel,  originally  dating  from  1728 
but  rebuilt  in  1794.  On  March  2nd,  1871,  the  Revolutionary  troops  were 
defeated  here  by  the  Juarez  forces  after  a sanguinary  struggle. 

Zacatecas  is  connected  with  (6  M.)  Guadalupe  by  a tramway,  down 
which  the  cars  descend  by  gravity  in  1/2  hr.,  while  they  are  drawn  up 
again  by  mules  in  I-I1/4  hr.  At  Guadalupe  is  the  fine  ’^Church  of  Nuestra 
Senora  de^  Guadalupe  (1721),  with  an  elaborately  decorated  interior  and 
a few  fair  paintings.  The  Chapel  of  the  Purisima  is  especially  goi’geous. 
The  old  convent  adjacent  contains  a College  and  Orphan  Asylum,  — Good 
pottery  may  be  bought  at  Zacatecas  and  Guadalupe. 


the  City  of  Mexico. 


LEON. 


lOS.  Route.  615 


On  leaving  Zacatecas  tlie  train  again  descends  rapidly  (seats  to 
the  left),  affording  striking  ^Yiews  of  the  Oriental-looking  city  and 
the  mountains.  Numerous  mines  and  smelting  works  are  seen  on  both 
sides.  The  engineering  difficulties  overcome  by  the  railway  both  in 
reaching  and  leaving  Zacatecas  are  remarkable.  824  M.  Soledad. 
Several  lofty  peaks  are  seen  in  the  distance  to  the  left. 

860  M.  Aguascalientes  (6180  ft.;  Washington.,  $2;  Rail.  Re- 
staurant j U.  S.  Con.  Agent),  a pretty  little  city  with  (1900)  37,816 
inhab.  and  a large  silver  and  copper  smelter,  is  the  capital  of  the 
small  state  of  the  same  name  and  is  widely  known  for  its  hot  springs. 

The  pretty  Alameda  leads  to  the  E.  from  tbe  station  (tramway),  which 
is  itself  1 M.  to  the  E.  of  the  city  (tramway),  to  the  Hot  Springs  (ca.  95^^ 
Fahr.),  each  enclosed  hy  a small  bath-house  (fee  about  15  c.).  The  over- 
flow from  the  springs  is  carried  off  by  a small  canal  skirting  the  Alameda. 
The  best  baths,  fed  by  a conduit  from  a reserved  spring,  are  close  to  the 
railway-station  (fee  about  25  c.)-  — Some  of  the  Churches  of  Aguascalientes 
are  interesting,  and  the  Public  Squares  are  gay  with  luxuriant  vegetation. 

From  Aguascalientes  to  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Tampico,  415  M., 
railway  in  1974  hrs.  This  division  of  the  Mexican  Central  Railway  passes 
through  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in  Mexico.  — 68  M.  Salinas.,  with  large 
salt  works.  At  (140  M.)  San  Luis  Potosi  (see  p.  6l0:  Rail.  Restaurant) 
we  cross  the  Mexican  National  Railway.  — We  now  descend  gradually  by 
a series  of  terraces,  traversing  the  '^San  Ysidro  and  other  beautiful  valleys. 
Beyond  (257  M.)  Cardenas  (3800  ft.  5 Rail.  Restaurant)  the  line  drops  abruptly 
into  the  Canoas  Valley  and  then  penetrates  the  fine  '^Tamasopo  Cafion.,  thread- 
ing many  tunnels.  298  M.  Rascon  (1000  ft.  j Rail.  Restaurant).  Other  fine 
canons  and  waterfalls  are  passed  farther  on.  From  (340  M.)  Taninul  we 
may  visit  the  interesting  Chop  Cave,  over  which  the  railway  passes.  — 415  M. 
Tampico  (100  ft.),  an  old  town  of  16,313  inhab.,  on  the  Panuco,  7 M.  from 
its  mouth  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico , has  regular  steamboat  communication 
with  New  York,  New  Orleans,  Mobile,  and  other  ports. 

Near  (890  M.)  Encarnacidn  (6090  ft.)  we  cross  tbe  Rio  Encarna- 
ci6n  and  enter  tbe  State  of  Jalisco.  929  M.  Lagos  (6150  ft.;  Progreso), 
a town  with  about  16,000  inbabitants.  Beyond  (946  M.)  Pedrito  we 
enter  tbe  fertile  and  silver-mining  State  of  Guanajuato  (‘Wabna- 
wabto’). . Fine  scenery. 

966  M.  Leon  (5865  ft. ; Hotel  de  Diligencias,  $ 2),  a city  of  (1900) 
58,426  inbab. , with  manufactures  of  saddlery  and  other  leathern 
goods  and  of  rebozos  (p.  612),  contains  a Cathedral  and  several  pretty 
Plazas.  Visitors  will  notice  tbe  fences  of  tbe  Organ  Cactus.  — 
986  m.  Silao  (5830  ft.;  St.  Julian;  Ridon;  Rail.  Restaur antj,  a 
town  of  15,463  inhab.,  with  handsome  churches  and  gardens. 

From  Silao  a branch-railway  runs  through  a canon  to  (11  M.)  Marfil, 
whence  a tramway  leads  along  a narrow  gorge  to  (3  M.)  Guanajuato  (6835  ft. : 
Union..  $ 2 ; U.  S.  Con.  Agent),  a highly  interesting  silver-mining  city,  founded 
in  1554.  Pop.  (1900)  40,580.  The  houses  cluster  in  the  bottom  of  the  ravine 
or  cling  to  its  sides,  while  the  fortress-like  smelting-works  add  to  the  general 
picturesqueness.  Above  the  town  rises  a large  square  rock  (view),  forming 
a conspicuous  landmark  for  many  miles  round.  The  chief  source  of  interest 
in  and  near  Guanajuato  are  the  Silver  Mines,  including  the  rich  Veta  Madre, 
a vein  30-160  ft.  in  width,  not  yet  exhausted,  although  it  has  been  worked 
for  a di, stance  of  10  M.  The  mines  are  more  easily  visited  than  those  in 
other  parts  oi  Mexico , being  entered  by  stone  stairways  ^ and  orders  of 
admission  may  be  obtained  from  the  Administrador.  The  Reduction  Worlis 
are  also  interesting^  almost  all  are  worked  by  horse  or  mule  power,  with 


616  Route  108. 


QUERETARO. 


the  primitive  methods  of  300  years  ago.  A visit  may  be  paid  to  the  large 
Alhondigo  de  Granaditas^  dominating  the  city  and  now  used  as  a prison. 
The  Teatro  Juarez  is  one  of  the  handsomest  theatres  in  America.  Other 
points  of  interest  are  the  churches,  numerous  handsome  private  residences, 
and  fine  public  and  private  gardens.  The  water-carriers  bear  curious  long 
slender  water-jars  (almost  peculiar  to  Guanajuato). 

The  district  now  traversed  is  fertile  and  diversified.  At  (1005  M.) 
Ira'puato  (5T65  ft.;  Hot.  Ferrocarril),  a town  of  19,640  inhab.,  fine 
fresh  strawberries  are  offered  for  sale  every  day  in  the  year  at  the 
station  (25-50  c.  per  basket). 

From  Irapuato  to  Guadalajara,  161  M. , railway  in  71/2  hrs.  This 
line  runs  through  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Lerma^  one  of  the  most  fertile 
districts  in  Mexico,  and  is  to  be  continued  to  the  Pacific  coast.  The  large 
Lake  Chapala  lies  a little  to  the  S.  of  the  line,  but  is  not  visible  from  it. 
— From  (146  M.)  El  Castillo  a tramway  runs  to  (4  M.)  the  beautiful  -Falls 
of  Juanacatlan  (‘Wahnacatlan’),  on  the  Lerma,  70  ft.  high  and  600  ft.  wide. 
Close  by  is  a cotton-mill  for  1000  operatives. 

161  M.  Guadalajara  ('‘Wahdalahara’ *,  5055  ft.;  Garcia^  $3-6;  Cosmo- 
politan $2;  U.  S.  Con.  Agent),  the  capital  of  Jalisco  (p.  615),  is  a rich  and 
progressive  place  with  101,208  inhab.  and  manufactures  of  fine  pottery, 
rebozos,  cotton,  silk,  and  other  articles.  It  is  cleaner  and  more  regularly 
laid  out  than  most  Mexican  cities  and  contains  many  points  of  interest  for 
the  stranger.  Near  the  centre  of  the  city  stands  the  Cathedral,  a fine 
edifice  completed  in  1618,  with  a dome  and  two  lofty  towers.  In  the 
sacristy  is  an  Assumption  ascribed  to  Murillo.  To  the  S.  of  this,  abutting 
on  the  Plaza  de  Armas^  is  the  Sagrario  (1808-43).  On  the  E.  side  of  the 
same  square  is  the  Governor’' s Palace  ^ while  on  the  S.  and  W.  are  the 
Portales  de  Cortazar  and  de  Bolivai'n  containing  many  of  the  best  shops.  — 
The  Church  of  San  Jose^  in  the  Plaza  de  Nunez,  is  a gorgeous  modern 
edifice,  elaborately  adorned  with  gilding  and  painting  and  said  to  have  cost 
$ 1,000,0(X).  — On  the  N.  side  of  the  city  is  the  interesting  Hospital  de  BeleUn 
and  on  the  E.  side,  not  far  from  the  pretty  Alameda  (military  music),  is 
the  huge  ’^‘Hospicio  de  Pohres  (1000  inmates),  with  its  beautiful  flower-filled 
‘patios’  and  departments  for  men,  women  and  children  (inch  a Kinder- 
garten and  a creche)  , the  deaf  and  dumb , and  the  blind  (‘drawn  work’ 
and  other  articles  for  sale).  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  town  is  the 
Penitentiary  n on  the  radiating  principle  (visitors  admitted).  The  "PaseOn 
running  to  the  S.  from  the  Alameda,  affords  a fine  walk  or  drive.  — Other 
important  buildings  are  the  Bishop's  PalacCn  the  Mint^  the  City  Hall^  and 
the  Teatro  DegolladOn  one  of  the  finest  in  Mexico.  — San  Pedro  and  other 
points  in  the  suburbs  are  also  interesting. 

Beyond  Guadalajara  the  line  now  goes  on  to  (55  M.)  Ameca  (several 
hotels),  a town  of  4739  inhab.,  with  sugar-refining  and  mining  industries, 
and  to  (71  M.)  San  Marcos. 

Another  line  runs  to  the  S.  from  Guadalajara,  via  (84  M.)  Sayula 
(7888  inhab.)  and  (102  M.)  Zapotldn  (17,596  inhab.),  to  (119  M.)  Taxpan^ 
whence  it  is  to  be  prolonged  to  (303  M.)  Colima  (20,698  inhab.),  the  capital 
of  the  state  of  that  name.  Colima  is  connected  by  a narrow-gauge  rail- 
way with  (60  M.)  the  seaport  of  Manzanillo. 

1017 M.  Salamanca  (pop.  13,724) is  famous  for  its  gloves.  Beyond 
(1043  M.)  Celaya  (see  p.  611),  we  cross  the  Mexican  National  R.  R.  (R. 
107),  and  beyond  (1060  M.)  Mariscala  we  enter  the  State  ofQueretaro. 

1071  M.  Queretaro  (5950  ft.;  Hot.  del  Jardin)^  a picturesque 
city  with  (1900)  38,016  inhab.,  is  pleasantly  situated  in  a fertile 
valley.  The  domes  and  towers  of  numerous  churches  rise  above  the 
Other  buildings,  the  most  interesting  being  the  Cathedral  and  Santa 
Clara.  It  possesses  an  important  woollen  industry.  Opals  are  found 
in  great  abundance  in  the  neighbourhood. 


MEXICO. 


109.  Route.  617 


Perhaps  the  chief  interest  of  Queretaro  is  its  connection  with  the  last 
days  of  the  unfortunate  Emp.  Maximilian,  who  was  besieged  here  in  1867 
by  the  Republican  troops  under  Escobedo.  The  city  surrendered  on  May 
19th,  and  a month  later  Maximilian,  with  his  adherents  Miramon  and 
Mejia,  was  shot  on  the  Cerro  de  las  Campanas^  a hill  to  the  W.  of  the 
town.  The  spot  is  now  marked  by  a chapel  and  affords  a fine  "View  of 
Queretaro,  embowered  in  greenery.  The  Capuchin  Convent^  in  which  Maxi- 
milian was  confined  before  his  execution,  is  now  a private  house,  but 
visitors  are  admitted  to  his  room. 

In  leaving  Queretaro  the  line  passes  under  the  fine  * Aqueduct 
constructed  in  1726-38  by  the  Marquis  de  Yillar  del  Aguila  to  pro- 
vide the  city  with  water.  Some  of  the  arches  are  nearly  100ft.  high. 
To  the  left,  2 M.  from  Queretaro,  in  a romantic  ravine,  is  the  large 
^Hercules  Mill^  the  largest  cotton-mill  in  Mexico  (1800  workmen). 

On  this  part  of  the  journey  we  see  immense  fields  of  the  Maguey  or 
Century  Plant  (Agave  Americana)^  cultivated  by  the  Mexicans  for  the  sake 
of  its  sap,  which  is  converted  into  the  national  beverage  Pulque.  The 
plants  are  sometimes  10-12  ft.  high.  A spirituous  liquor  named  Mescal 
is  distilled  from  the  leaves  of  the  maguey,  and  another  ( Tequila)  from  its 
roots,  while  its  fibre  and  thorns  are  also  turned  to  commercial  uses. 

Beyond  (1106  M.)  San  Juan  del  Rio  (6245ft.;  Rail.  Restaurant; 
8224inhab.)  the  line  ascends  rapidly,  passing  tbe  plain  of  (1124M.) 
Cazadero  and  reaching  its  highest  point  (8135  ft.)  just  beyond 
(1148  M.)  Marques.  The  descent  hence  to  Mexico  is  very  fine.  — 
1174m.  Tula  (6660  ft.;  Moctezuma),  a town  of  about  1700  inhab., 
is  believed  to  have  been  founded  by  the  Toltecs  and  contains  inter- 
esting remains  ascribed  to  that  people  (guides  at  the  hotels).  A line 
runs  hence  to  (44  M.)  Pachuca  (see  p.  622)  in  2 hrs.  — Beyond 
(1185  M.)  El  SaltOj  where  we  join  a branch  of  the  Mexican  National 
R.  R.,  we  skirt  the  Tajo  de  NocMstongo  (right),  a canal-cutting  made 
by  the  Spaniards  in  1607-8  to  drain  the  lakes  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico 
(comp.  p.  619).  It  is  I21/2M.  long,  130-165  ft.  deep,  and  260-330  ft. 
wide.  The  majestic  snow-capped  peaks  of  Ixtaccihuatl  and  Popo- 
catepetl (p.  622)  come  into  view  ahead  of  us.  The  line  again  ascends 
a little.  1195  M.  Huehuetoca  (7410  ft.). 

1224  M.  City  of  Mexico,  see  below. 


109.  The  City  of  Mexico. 

Railway  Stations.  Mexican  Central  Station Mexican  Railway  Station 
(Vera  Cruz),  and  Cuernavaca  Pacific  Station^  Plazuela  de  Buena  Vista  (PI.  B, 
2,  1),  on  the  W.  side  of  the  city;  Mexican  National  Station  (PI.  A,  3,  4), 
Colonia  Arquitectos,  to  the  S.W. ; Interoceanic  Station.^  San  Lazaro  (beyo  d 
PI.  G,  4),  to  the  E. ; Hidalgo  N.E.  Railway  Station.^  Peralvillo , to  the 
N.E. ; Xico  and  San  Rafael  Station  (Apapasco),  Calle  Cuauhtemotzin  (PI.  G,5). 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  608).  Saxz  Hotel,  Calle  de  la  Mariscala  12  (PI.  D,  3), 
a large  and  luxuriously  equipped  house  with  all  modern  conveniences, 
R.  from  $5,  D.  $2;  Reforma,  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  129  (Pl.B, A, 3,4),  R. 
from  $ 3,  well  spoken  of;  Coliseum,  Calle  del  Coliseo  10  (PI.  E,3),  R.  from 
$1.50;  Iturbide  (PI.  a;  E,3),  Calle  de  San  Francisco,  a large  house  enclos- 
ing a roomy  central  court,  once  the  residence  of  the  Emp.  Iturbide,  R. 
from  $2  (elevator);  Hotel  del  Jardin  (‘Hardeen' ; PI.  b,D,3),  Calle  Pri- 
mera  Independenzia  y Letran,  well  spoken  of,  R.  from  $3;  San  Carlos 
(Pl.c;E;3),  Calle  del  Coliseo,  R.  from  $1;  Gillow  (PI  d;E,3),  San  Jose 


618  Route  109. 


MEXICO. 


Practical  Notes. 


el  Real,  R.  from  31;  Palacio,  (PI.  e;  E,4),  Puente  Espiritu  Santo  10,  from 
$2V2,  good  German  cookery,  Bazar,  Calle  Espiritu  Santo  8 (PL  E,  3,  4), 
R.  from  3 IVz- 

Restaurants  at  the  above  hotels;  Ghapultepec^  Paseo  de  la  Reforma, 
3/4 M.  from  the  city,  fashionable,  military  music;  Sylvain^  Coliseo  Viejo  IT, 
good  French  cookery;  Porter'' s American  Restaurant^  la  San  Francisco  4; 
Gaf&  Concordia , 2a  Plateros  302 , Maison  Dor^e , la  San  Francisco  3 , these 
two  recommended  for  breakfast;  -Cafi  de  Paris^  Coliseo  Viejo  18.  — Wine 
Rooms:  Bach.  2a  San  Francisco  3;  Palma  13;  'Wissmann.,  2a  Plateros  4. 

Electric  Street  Railways  intersect  the  city  in  all  directions  (fare  6 c. ; 
to  suburban  points  10-25 c.).  — Cabs  are  divided  into  three  classes,  denoted 
by  blue,  red,  and  yellow  flags;  fares  31,  T5c.,  and  50c.  per  hr.,  50c., 
40c.,  and  25c.  per  1/2  hr.  or  fraction  thereof  or  per  drive.  The  fare  from 
the  railway-stations  to  the  hotel,  including  hand-baggage,  is  about  the  same 
as  the  hourly  rate.  Double  fares  after  10  p.m.  and  on  Shrove  Tuesday,  All 
Souls  Day,  and  Battle  of  Flowers  Day;  fare  and  a half  on  Sundays  and 
other  holidays. 

District  Messengers  (Cargadores).^  12-25 c.  per  errand. 

Baths  (Sitz  baths.  25-50  c. ; Turkish  or  Russian  baths,  31-25).  Banos 
San  Felipe  de  Jesus,  in  the  street  of  that  name ; in  the  IturUde  Hotel  (p-  617); 
Banos  del  Harem.  Coliseo  Nuevo. 

Places  of  Amusement.  Teatro  Nacional  (PI.  D,  3),  new  building  in  course 
of  erection;  Teatro  Principal  (P1.E,3),  Calle  del  Coliseo;  ArUu  (PL  E,4), 
Calle  de  San  Felipe  Neri;  Teatro  Renacimiento  (PLE,3),  San  Andres  (good 
l)erformance  of  opera  in  winter).  — Orrm’5  Circus  (PLD,2),  Plaza  Villa- 
mil.  — Fronton  Nacional^  Calle  Iturbide  (PLC,3),  for  the  game  of  pelota. 

Shops  (English  spoken  at  most  of  the  best).  Mexican  curiosities,  photo- 
graphs, guide-books,  maps,  English  books,  periodicals,  & newspapers : Hoed, 
Primera  Calle  de  San  Francisco  12;  Spaulding,  Calle  de  Cadena  23;  Sonora 
News  Co.,  First  Estaciones  3,  and  Calle  de  Gante  4;  BlaTce  & Fislce,  Calle  de 
Gante  8;  W.  0.  'Walz  Co.,  2a  Calle  de  San  Francisco  3.  Other  good  shops 
are  in  the  Calle  de  los  Plateros , the  Calle  de  San  Francisco , the  Coliseo 
Nuevo,  and  the  Calle  de  Cinco  de  Mayo.  Free  Reading  Room  (open  8-10)  at 
Trinity  Church,  opposite  the  W.  entrance  of  the  Hotel  Iturbide,  with  an 
excellent  library  and  full  supply  of  American  papers.  — ‘The  Mexican 
Herald’,  a daily  paper  in  English  (5  c.),  contains  many  useful  items  for  the 
tourist,  including  daily  lists  of  letters  lying  at  the  G.  P.  O.  for  English 
and  American  visitors  (comp.  p.  609).  ‘Modern  Mexico’  is  an  illustrated 
monthly  journal  (25  c.). 

Clubs.  American  Club,  Calle  de  Gante  1 (PL  E,3)  ; British  Club,  Calle  Co- 
liseo Viejo  20  (PL  E,  3,4);  Casino  Nacional;  Casino  Espanol;  Jockey  Club,  Calle 
Primiero  S.  Francisco  26;  Reforma  Athletic  Club  (tennis,  cricket,  football, 
and  hockey).  >—  Golf  Links  at  Mixcoac  and  San  Pedro. 

Streets.  The  streets  of  the  city  of  Mexico  were  officially  re-named  in 
1839.  The  town  is  divided  into  four  quarters  by  the  long  street  called 
Avenida  Oriente  and  Av.  Poniente,  running  from  E.  to  W.  past  the  N.  side 
of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  and  the  Alameda,  and  by  the  Calle  Norte 
and  Calle  Sur,  running  from  N.  to  S.  and  intersecting  the  Avenida  one 
block  E.  of  the  Alameda.  All  streets  running  E.  and  W-  are  called  Avenidas 
(those  to  the  E.  of  the  dividing  line  Av.  Oriente,  to  the  W.  Av,  Poniente), 
while  all  the  streets  running  N.  and  S.  are  called  Calles  (those  to  the  N.  of  the 
central  Avenida  Ca.  Norte,  to  the  S.  Ca.  Sur).  Each  street  has  a number. 
The  old  names,  however,  were  so  pertinaciously  retained  by  the  inhabitants 
that  they  have  been  restored  to  their  places,  alongside  the  new  ones.  The 
latter  are  seldom  used.  . -..t  ^ 

Post  Office  (Correos;  ¥1.F,S),  Calle  de  la  Moneda,  at  the  N.  end  of  the 
Palacio  Nacional  (p.  620);  branch-office,  Calle  San  Juan  de  Letran  (PhD, 
3,4).  A new  post-office  is  being  erected.  — Telegraph  Office  (PL  E,  o), 
Cinco  de  Mayo  156.  — Cablegrams,  Cinco  de  Mayo  6 (PL  E,  3). 

British  Charge  d’ Affaires,  Hon.  Grant  Duff,  Avenida  Marsella  3;  con- 
sul, Mr.  Lucien  J.  Jerome,  Calle  San  Juan  de  Letran  5V2.  — H.  S.  Minister, 
Hon.  Powell  Clayton,  Calle  Buenavista  4;  U.  S.  Consul  General,  Mr.  James 
Russell  Parsons,  Premiera  Colon  8. 


p E K IJ  € Q) 

I ; 20  000 


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. Hosp. 


Cathedral. 


MEXICO. 


109.  Route.  619 


Protestant  Churches.  Services  in  English  are  held  at  Calle  de  Gante  5 
(Meth.  Epis. , 10.15  a.m.  and  8 p.ni.),  Christ  Churchy  Fourth  Calle  de  la 
Providencia  5 (Epis.,  11  a.m.  and  8 p.m.),  and  Union  Church.  Premiera 
Humboldt  608  (If  a.m.  and  8 p.m.). 

Mexico  (7400  ft.),  the  capital  and  by  far  the  largest  city  of  the 
Mexican  Republic,  lies  in  the  centre  of  theYalley  of  Mexico,  in  part 
of  the  former  bed  of  Lake  Texcoco.  It  contains  (1900)  344,721  in- 
hab. , chiefly  full-blooded  Indians  or  mestizoes , and  including  over 
5000  natives  of  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  The  streets 
are  generally  wide  and  electrically  lighted,  but  most  of  them  are 
badly  paved  and  not  very  clean.  Most  of  the  buildings  are  of  stone, 
and  several  of  the  public  edifices  are  very  handsome.  The  public 
squares  and  gardens  and  the  residential  suburbs  are  very  attractive. 
The  climate  is  equable  (50-70®  Fahr.). 

The  Spanish  city  of  Mexico  was  founded  in  1522  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Aztec  Tenochtitlan.^  the  population  of  which  is  placed  by  tradition 
at  from  300,000  to  5(X),000.  Its  growth  has  been  steady  and  rapid.  In  1600 
it  contained  15,000  inhab.,  in  1746  it  had  90,000,  and  in  1800  it  had  about 
120,(XX).  The  commerce  of  the  city  is  mainly  in  transit.  Its  manufactures 
include  cigars  and  cigarettes,  gold  and  silver  work,  pottery,  feather  work, 
saddlery,  paper,  religious  pictures,  hats,  and  beer.  Numerous  attempts 
have  been  made  at  various  epochs  to  drain  the  valley  of  Mexico  (comp, 
p.  617),  but  none  of  these  proved  successful  until  the  completion  in  1898  of 
the  great  Drainage  Canal.,  constructed  at  a cost  of  $ 10,000,000.  It  is  SOM. 
long  and  crosses  the  mountains  by  a tunnel  6 M.  in  length.  Its  width  at 
the  top  varies  from  45  ft.  to  168  ft.  The  canal  is  crossed  by  numerous 
bridges  of  stone  and  iron. 

The  ^Cathedral  (Church  of  the  Asuncion  de  Maria  Santisima; 
PI.  F,  3)  stands  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion 
or  Plaza  Mayor,  5-10  min.  walk  from  the  Sanz  and  other  chief 
hotels.  This  edifice,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  chief  Aztec 
temple  (Teocalli)^  was  begun  in  1573  and  finally  dedicated  in  1667. 
The  towers,  218ft.  high,  were  not  completed  till  1791.  It  is  425ft. 
long  (from  N.  to  S.),  200  ft.  wide,  and  180ft.  high.  In  style  it  is 
similar  to  the  Spanish  Renaissance  edifices  of  the  same  period. 

The  Interior,  which  is  in  the  Doric  style  with  traces  of  Gothic,  has 
an  imposing  effect  in  spite  of  its  huge  and  incongruous  modern  altars  and 
the  wooden  flooring.  The  fine  Dome  is  adorned  with  paintings.  The 
Choir  occupies  the  centre  of  the  church  and  has  richly  carved  stalls.  The 
aisles  are  adjoined  by  rows  of  chapels,  the  most  interesting  of  which  are 
the  Capilla  San  Felipe  de  Jesus.,  with  the  tomb  of  the  Emp.  Iturbide,  the 
Cap.  de  las  Reliquias.,  with  paintings  of  martyrs  by  Juan  de  Herrera,  and 
the  Cap.  San  Pedro.  The  Sacristy  and  the  Chapter  House  also  contain 
interesting  paintings.  The  heads  of  Hidalgo,  Allende,  Jimenez,  and  Aldama 
(comp.  p.  613)  are  interred  below  the  Altar  de  los  Reyes.,  in  the  apse.  — 
The  visitor  should  not  fail  to  ascend  one  of  the  towers  for  the  sake  of 
the  *View  of  the  city  (fee  25  c). 

On  the  E.  the  Cathedral  is  adjoined  by  the  *Sagrario  Metro- 
politano  (PI.  F,  3),  the  first  parish-church  of  the  city,  dating  in  its 
present  form  from  1749-69  and  restored  in  1858.  It  is  in  the  florid 
style  named  after  the  Spanish  architect  Churriguera  (close  of  17th 
cent.).  — In  front  of  the  Sagrario  is  the  Martinez  Monument.,  show- 
ing the  geographical  position  of  the  city , the  varying  levels  of  Lake 
Texcoco,  etc. 


620  Route  109. 


MEXICO. 


Alameda^ 


The  centre  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  (PI.  F,  3,  4)  is  occu- 
pied by  the  pretty  Zocalo  Garden,  where  a band  generally  plays 
in  the  evening.  Almost  all  the  electric  lines  start  in  this  square. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  Plaza  Mayor  stands  the  huge  Falacio  Na- 
cional  (PI.  F,  3,  4),  675  ft.  long,  containing  many  of  the  govern- 
mental offices  (interior  open  to  visitors).  The  chief  points  of  interest 
are  the  large  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors  (with  portraits  of  Mexican  cel- 
ebrities) and  the  Senate  Room.  — On  the  S.  side  of  the  Plaza  are  the 
Falacio  Municipal  (PI.  F,  4)  or  Pal.  del  Ayuntamiento,  the  City  Hall 
(formerly  called  La  Diputacidn),  and  the  Portal  de  las  Flores  (shops). 
On  the  W.  side  are  the  Portales  Mercaderes.  — To  the  S.E.  of  the 
Plaza  is  the  chief  * Market  (Mercado  Velador;  PI.  F,4)  of  the  city. 

Behind  the  Palacio  Nacional  and  entered  from  the  Calle  de  Mo- 
neda  is  the  ^National  Museum  (PI.  F,  3;  open  daily,  exc.  Sat.,  10-1). 

The  most  valuable  and  interesting  collections  are  the  "-'Mexican  Anti- 
quities (from  Yucatan,  etc.),  including  the  famous  Aztec  Sacrificial  Stone 
the  "Aztec  Calendar.,  and  the  image  of  Euitzilopoxtli.  The  Historical  Col- 
lections are  also  of  interest.  See  Catalogue  (Engl,  trans.  by  W.  W.  Blake). 

A little  farther  to  the  E.,  in  the  Calle  de  la  Academia  No.  208,  is 
the  ^Academy  of  San  Carlos  (PI.  G,  3,  4),  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts 
(open  9-12  and  1-5),  with  good  Italian  and  Flemish  paintings  and 
interesting  collections  of  old  and  modern  Mexican  works  ('^‘Las  Casas 
protecting  the  Indians,  by  Felix  Parra^  etc.). 

The  Calle  de  Plateros  (PI.  E,  F,  3),  forming  with  its  prolongation 
the  Calls  de  San  Francisco  (PI.  E,  3),  the  principal  business-street 
of  the  city,  leads  to  the  W.  from  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion  to 
(^2  M.)  the  *Alameda  (PI.  C,  D,  3),  a beautiful  public  garden,  with 
fine  beeches  and  a great  variety  of  flowering  trees  and  shrubs  (band 
and  fashionable  promenade  on  Sun.  and  Thurs).  — The  Avenida  del 
CincodeMayo  (P1.E,3),  running  parallel  with  the  Calle  de  San  Fran- 
cisco on  the  N.,  is  also  a fine  street.  It  ends  on  the  W.  at  the  Alameda. 

A little  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Buena  Yista  stations  (p.  617)  and  ad- 
joining the  Guerrero  Garden  (with  monument)  is  the  Church  of  San 
Fernando  (PI.  C,  2),  the  interesting  cemetery  attached  to  which 
contains  the  graves  of  Juarez  (fine  monument),  Miramon  (p.  617), 
Mejia  (p.  617),  Zaragossa,  Guerrero,  Comonfort,  and  other  eminent 
Mexicans. 

Among  the  numerous  other  interesting  buildings  in  the  city,  of  which 
but  a scanty  selection  can  be  named  here,  are  the  Biblioteca  Nacional 
(PI.  E,  4*,  600,000  vols. ; open  10-5  and  6-9,  Sun.  9-12),  in  the  Calle  St. 
Agustin,  a little  to  the  S.W.  of  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion^  the  Casa  de 
Moneda  (Mint-,  PI.  C,  2),  in  the  Calle  de  Apartardo;  the  *Mineria  or  Escuela 
de  Ingenleros  (School  of  Mines  ^ PI.  E,  3),  in  the  Calle  de  San  Andres  (29-51  ^ 
enormous  meteorites  in  the  court  and  portico)^  the  House  of  Congress  (PI. 
E,  3),  in  the  former  Teatro  Iturbide,  at  the  corner  of  the  Calle  Primera  del 
Factor  and  the  Calle  de  la  Canoa  (large  new  Palacio  Legislativo  being 
erected  to  the  W.  ^ PI.  B,  3)^  the  Technological  Industrial  Museum.^  with 
samples  of  the  crude  products  and  manufactures  of  Mexico ; the  Church  of 
Santo  Domingo  (P1.F,2),  in  the  plaza  of  the  same  name,  a little  to  the 
N.  of  the  Cathedral;  the  School  of  Medicine  (PL  ¥,2).,  opposite  the  last, 
occupied  by  the  Inquisition  for  250  years ; the  Conservatory  of  Mtisic  (PI.  F,  4), 


Environs. 


MEXICO. 


109.  Route.  621 


in  the  Calle  del  Universita;  the  huge  City  Hospital  (PI.  C,  2)*,  the  Prison; 
the  Church  of  La  Santisima  (PI.  G,  3),  with  its  finely  carved  facade,  V2  M. 
to  the  E.  of  the  Cathedral^  and,  numerous  other  churches  and  charitable 
institutions. 

The  fashionable  drive  of  the  Mexicans  is  the  beautiful  *Paseo 
DE  LA  Reforma  (PI.  0,  B,  A,  3,  4),  which  begins  near  the  Alameda 
and  runs  to  the  S.W.  to  (2  M.)  Chapultepec  (see  below ; band  on 
Thurs.  and  Sun.,  4-6).  At  the  entrance  is  an  equestrian  statue  of 
Charles  lY.  (PI.  C,  3) ; and  the  ‘Glorietas’,  or  circles  (400  ft.  in  dia- 
meter), wMch  occur  at  frequent  intervals  farther  on,  are  adorned 
with  monuments  to  Columbus,  Guatemotzin  or  Guauhtemoc  (the  last 
Indian  Emperor),  Juarez^  Friar  Servanda  Teresa  de  Mier^  Gen.  Juan 
Zuazua,  etc.  The  Paseo  commands  fine  views  of  Popocatepetl  and 
Ixtaccihuatl  (p.  622).  At  the  end  of  it  is  a small  park  with  a collec- 
tion of  native  animals. 

Environs  of  Mexico. 

The  chief  point  of  interest  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  City 
of  Mexico  is  the  "'Palace  of  Chapultepec , finely  situated  on  a rocky  hill 
at  the  end  of  the  Paseo  de  la  Eeforma  (see  above  ^ also  reached  by  the 
Tacubaya  tramway  from  the  Plaza  de  la  Constitucion,  10  c.).  Orders  of  ad- 
mission (free)  may  be  obtained  at  from  the  Governor  of  the  Palacio  Ra- 
cional  (p.  620).  The  present  building,  which  occupies  the  site  of  Monte- 
zuma's Palace,  dates  from  1783-85,  with  later  additions.  It  is  occupied  by 
President  Diaz  and  by  the  National  Military  School  (320  cadets).  The  fine 
old  cypresses  in  the  grove  surrounding  the  palace  (Cupressus  disticha)  reach 
a height  of  120  ft.  and  a girth  of  3040  ft.  A monument  commemorates 
the  cadets  who  fell  in  the  defence  of  the  palace  against  the  Americans  in 
1847.  Beyond  the  hill  is  the  battlefield  of  Molino  del  Rey  (Sept.  8th,  1847). 
The  "'View  from  the  ramparts  includes  the  city  and  valley  of  Mexico,  with 
Popocatapetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl  in  the  background.  — From  Chapultepec 
the  excursion  may  be  extended  (electric  railway^  IV4  M.)  to  Tacuhaya 
(37,050  inhab.),  with  the  National  Observatory,  two  churches,  a secularised 
convent,  and  beautiful  private  '-'Gardens. 

About  21/4  M.  to  the  N.  of  the  city  (electric  railway  from  the  Plaza 
de  la  Constitucion^  10  c.)  is  Guadalupe  Hidalgo,  with  the  sanctuary  of  the 
Virgin  of  Guadalupe,  the  patron-saint  of  Mexico  and  more  especially  of 
the  Indians.  The  Virgin  is  believed  to  have  appeared  to  an  Indian,  Juan 
Diego,  in  1531,  on  the  adjoining  hill  of  Tepeyacac.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill 
is  the  large  church  of  Nuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe,  completed  in  1709, 
containing  a miraculous  picture  of  the  Virgin,  imprinted  on  Diego's  tilma 
(blanket).  At  the  top  of  the  hill  is  the  Capilla  del  Cerrito,  and  close  by  is 
another  chapel,  covering  a holy  (chalybeate)  spring.  The  singular  mon- 
ument on  the  hill  was  erected  by  a grateful  seaman. 

The  curious  "^Chinampas  or  Floating  Gardens,  near  the  villages  of  (2  M.) 
Santa  Anita  and  (3  M.)  Ixtacalco,  are  reached  by  the  Viga  Canal,  leading 
to  the  S.  from  the  city  (electric  railway  from  the  Plaza  to  the  Canal  6 c. 
boat  to  Santa  Anita  and  back  about  to  Ixtacalco  $2).  This  is  a 

highly  interesting  trip  and  should  be  made  at  least  as  far  as  Santa  Anita 
(most  varied  life  seen  on  Sun.).  The  boats  are  a kind  of  rude  parody  of 
the  Venetian  gondola.  The  ‘floating  gardens’  are  now  small  pieces  of  ground 
separated  by  narrow  canals  and  used  for  growing  vegetables.  The  canal 
ends  at  (8  M.)  the  Lago  de  Xochimilico. 

At  Popotla,  2^2  M.  to  the  W.  of  the  city  (electric  railway  from  the 
Plaza  ^ 12  c.),  is  the  famous  ’"Arbol  de  la  Noche  Triste,  or  Tree  of  the  Dismal 
Night,  under  which  Cortes  is  said  to  have  wept  on  the  night  of  the  ex- 
pulsion of  the  Spaniards  from  Mexico  (July  1st,  1520).  It  is  a kind  of  cy- 
press (see  above).  The  road  to  it  passes  the  Tlaxpana  Aqueduct.  The  car 
goes  on  to  Tacuha  and  (272  M.  farther)  Atzcapotzalco  (20  c.). 


622  Route  109. 


MEXICO. 


Environs. 


Electric  railway  excursions  may  also  be  made  to  Dolores,  Mixcoac 
Coyoxcan^  La  Piedad^  San  Angela  Tlalpam^  to  the  S.W.  and  S of  Mexico* 
and  other  points.  ‘ ’ 

The  two  magnificent  snow-capped  volcanoes  of  Popocatepetl  fl7  780  ft ) 
and  Ixtaccihuatl  (‘IstaciwatP  5 16,060  ft.)  are  conspicuous  features  in  the 
environment  of  Mexico.  The  former  is  ascended  from  Amecameca  (Hotel 
Hispano- Americano),  a village  of  8180  inhab. , on  its  slope,  which  is 
reached  by  the  Interoceanic  Railway  (36  M.,  in  about  2 hrs.)  or  by  the  Xico  d: 
San  Rafael  Railway  (42  M,,  in  21/2-3Y2  hrs.)  j but  the  ascent  is  arduous  and 
should  not  be  attempted  except  by  experienced  mountaineers  in  good  con- 
dition. Guides  and  horses  may  be  obtained  in  Amecameca,  but  the  bulk 
of  the  provisions  should  be  brought  from  Mexico.  Rope  and  ice-axes  (which 
however,  are  not  to  be  had  in  Mexico)  are  also  extremely  useful.  The  trip 
takes  2-3  days  and  costs-  about  $40  for  a single  traveller  and  $25  for  each 
member  of  a party.  From  Amecameca  we  ride  in  6-7  hrs.  to  the  ranch 
of  Flamacas,  where  the  night  is  spent.  A ride  of  IV2  hr.  more  brings 
us  to  the  snow-line.  Thence  we  proceed  on  foot  over  cinders  and  snow- 
lields  to  the  steep  slope  of  neve  stretching  to  the  summit.  In  7-8  hrs 
from  Flamacas  we  reach  the  ice-sheathed  ’^'Crater,  1540  yds.  in  diameter’ 
from  the  ‘solfatare’’  of  which  clouds  of  vapour  perpetually  ascend.  — The 
ascent  of  Ixtaccihuatl,  which  is  considerably  harder,  is  also  made  from 
Amecameca. 

Beyond  Amecameca  the  Interoceanic  Railway  goes  on  to  (84  M.  from 
Mexico)  Cuaiitla  (Sanatorium),  an  interesting  old  town  and  favourite  health- 
resort,  with  natural  hot  sulphur  baths,  and  (134  M.)  Puente  de  Ixtla.  also 
a station  on  the  Cuernavaca-Pacifico  Railway  (see  below). 

^ From  Mexico  to  Cuernavaca,  75  M.,  Mexican  Central  Railway  in  41/3  hrs. 
This  line  passes  through  some  charming  scenery,  and  the  trip  is  well  worth 
making.  8 M.  Tacul>aya  (p.  621).  Fr(  m (18  M.)  Contreras  the  train  ascends 
rapidly  along  the  mountain-side.  Beyond  (28  M.)  Ajusco  we  pass  through 
a great  cut  (magnificent  retrospect)  and  reach  the  vast  forest  of  the  Monte 
de  Huitzilac.  At  (38  M.)  La  Cima  (9900  ft.)  we  reach  the  culminating  point 
of  the  line  and  begin  the  descent,  enjoying  numerous  fine  views.  47  M. 
Tres  Marias.  — 75  M.  Cuernavaca  (Hot.  Morelos y $3-5^  Bella  Vista)  is  an 
interesting  old  town  of  (1900)  95S4  inhab.,  the  capital  of  the  state  of  Morelos. 
with  the  Palace  of  Cortez  (now  the  police-station),  a church  of  1529  (with 
an  old  clock  given  to  Cortez  by  Charles  IV.),  the  Villa  of  Maximilian ^ and 
the  beautiful  garden  of  La  Borda.,  once  the  favourite  resort  of  the  Empress 
Charlotte.  The  town  has  numerous  sugar-refineries.  In  the  vicinity  are 
the  Aztec  temple-pyramid  of  Tepotzlan  and  the  extensive  ruins  of  Xochicalco. 
— Beyond  Cuernavaca  the  railway  goes  on  to  (111  M.)  Puente  de  Ixtla  (ter- 
nainus  of  the  Interoceanic  Railway  above  mentioned) , Iguala  (147  M. ; 
7463  inhab.),  and  (181  M.)  Balsas^  whence  it  is  to  be  prolonged  to  SiJiua- 
tanejo  and  to  Acapulco^  both  on  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

From  Mexico  to  Pachoca,  61  M.,  Central  Railway  in  21/2  hrs.  — 50  M. 
Tellesy  the  junction  of  a railway  to  (103  M.  from  Mexico)  Apulco.  — 61  M. 
Pachucay  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Hidalgo^  with  (1900)  37,487  inhabitants. 
Here,  and  at  the  neighbouring  Real  del  Monte  (10,000  inhab.)  are  important 
silver  and  iron  mines.  — Pachuca  may  also  be  reached  from  Mexico  by 
the  Hidalgo  & N.E.  Railway  (69  M.,  in  3 hrs.)  via  (16  M.)  Tepa;  and 
it  is  also  connected  by  railway  with  Tulancingo,  Tortvgas,  Tula  (p.  617), 
Jrolo  (p.  623),  and  Ometusco  (p.  623).  y, 

Other  excursions  by  railway  may  be  made  to  Texcoco  (see  p.  625);  to 
Toluca  (see  p.  611);  to  Orizaba-,  Cordoba^  ot  Paso  del  Macho  (see  p.  624);  to 
San  Juan  Teotihuacan  (p.  623);  to  Puebla  (p.  625);  to  Oaxaca  (p.  626),  etc. 

From  Mexico  to  Bl  PasOy  see  R.  108 ; to  Laredo,  see  R.  106 ; to  Eagle 
Pass,  see  R.  109;  to  Vera  CruZy  see  R.  110. 


bistitulo  de  Wa:^ei  iDelies, Leipzig 


1 


623 


110.  From  the  City  of  Mexico  to  Vera  Cruz. 

a.  Vi^  Apizaco  and  Orizaba. 

264  M.  Mexican  Railway  (Ferrocarril  Mexicano)  in  II1/2-I2  brs.  (fare 
$7.20,  gold*,  return-fare  $12.25,  witli  return  by  the  Interoceanic  Railway 
$13.25).  Only  33  lbs.  of  luggage  are  allowed  free  on  this  railway. 

Visitors  to  Mexico  should  at  least  make  a trip  over  this  railway  as 
far  as  Orizaba  or  Paso  del  Macho  for  the  sake  of  the  magnificent  scenery  in 
the  descent  from  the  Mexican  Plateau  to  the  coast-level.  Views  to  the  right. 

City  of  Mexico^  see  p.  617.  The  train  ascends  to  the  N.E.,  passing 
the  new  Custom  House  (right),  Guadalupe  (p.  621 ; left),  and  Lake 
Texcoco  (right) , and  farther  on  crosses  immense  plantations  of 
‘maguey’  (see  p.  617).  Popocatepetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl  are  seen  to 
the  S.  — 28  M.  San  Juan  Teotihuacan^  with  two  interesting  ‘Teocal- 
lis’,  or  pyramids,  dedicated  to  the  Sun  and  Moon  and  believed  to 
antedate  the  Toltecs  (seen  to  the  left,  about  2 M.  from  the  rail- 
way). The  former  is  180  ft.  high,  with  a base  measuring  680  ft. ; the 
other  is  smaller.  — 35  M.  Otumha  was  the  scene  of  a crucial  battle 
between  the  Spaniards  and  Aztecs  (July  8th,  1520).  42  M.  Ome- 
tusco,  the  Junction  of  a line  to  (28  M.)  Pachuca  (p.  622).  48  M. 
Irolo  (8045  ft.;  branch -line  to  Pachuca^  p.  622)  and  (58  M.) 
A'pam  are  two  of  the  chief  centres  of  the  trade  in  ‘pulque’  (p.  617). 
Beyond  Apam  we  pass  from  the  State  of  Hidalgo  to  that  of  Tlaxcala. 
Near  (77  M.)  Guadalupe  (8330  ft.)  Mt.  Orizaba  and  the  Malintzi  are 
visible  to  the  S.E.  — 87  M.  Apizaco  (Rail.  Restaurant)  is  the  Junc- 
tion of  a branch-line  to  Puebla. 

From  Apizaco  to  Puebla,  30  M.,  railway  in  I1/2  br.  — Good  views 
are  obtained  of  ila.Q  Malintzi  (13,460  ft.*,  left)  and,  in  clear  weather,  of  Popo- 
catepetl, Ixtaccihuatl,  and  Orizaba.  From  (10  M.)  Santa  Ana  we  may  make 
an  excursion  by  tramway  to  (5  M.)  the  ancient  city  of  Tlaxcala^  capital 
of  the  state  of  the  same  name,  with  (1900)  2715  inhab.,  interesting  chuiches, 
relics  of  Cortez  and  other  early  Spaniards  (in  the  Casa  Municipal),  etc.  — 
Beyond  (23  M.)  Panzacola  the  pyramid  of  Cholula  (p.  625)  is  seen  to  the 
right.  — 30  M.  Puebla  (see  p.  625). 

At  (103  M.)  Huamanatla  (6000  inhab.)  the  railway  reaches  its 
highest  point  (8162  ft.).  — 137  M.  San  Andres  is  the  starting-point 
for  the  difficult  ascent  of  *Mt.  Orizaba  or  Citlatepetl  (18,245  ft.), 
now  ascertained  to  be  the  highest  mountain  in  Mexico  and  probably 
second  to  Mts.  McKinley  and  Logan  only  among  the  peaks  of  N. 
America  (comp.  p.  607). 

The  ascent  is  difficult  and  exhausting.  From  San  Andres  a tram-car 
drawn  by  mules  (the  descent  is  made  by  gravity)  runs  in  1 hr.  to  (6  M.) 
Chalchicomula  (inn),  a picturesque  village,  with  a fine  Renaissance  church, 
situated  on  the  W.  side  of  the  mountain.  Hence,  riding  first  through  fields  of 
agave  and  grain,  then  for  several  hours  through  forest,  we  reach  (in  about 
9 hrs.)  the  saddle  between  the  Orizaba  and  the  Sierra  Negra.  The  night  is 
spent  here  in  a sheltered  ravine.  The  climb  from  this  point  to  the  summit 
takes  6-9  hrs.  according  to  the  state  of  the  snow.  For  the  first  hour  or 
two,  it  is  still  possible  to  ride^  but  the  rest  of  the  way  has  to  be  done 
on  foot,  oyer  grass,  debris,  and  snow.  The  highest  point  on  the  edge  of 
the  crater  is  indicated  by  a cross.  Popocatepetl  and  Ixtaccihuatl  are  seen 
due  W.,  the  Malintzi  to  the  N.W.,  the  town  of  Orizaba  far  below,  and 
in  clear  weather,  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  E. 

From  (152  M.)  Esperanza  (7980  ft. ; Rail.  Restaurant)  a branch-* 


624  Route  110. 


VERA  CRUZ. 


line  runs  to  (31  M.)  Tehuacan,  on  the  railway  from  Puebla  to  Oaxaca 
(p.  626).  — Here  begins  a very  rapid  descent,  to  surmount  which 
trains  coming  in  the  reverse  direction  require  the  aid  of  double-headed 
Fairlie  locomotives.  The  scenery  on  this  portion  of  the  line  is  very 
grand,  and  its  engineering  is  very  remarkable.  The  vegetation  becomes 
of  tropical  richness  as  we  near  the  tierra  caliente,  or  hot  lands  of  the 
coast,  including  orange,  lime,  citron,  banana,  and  pomegranate  trees, 
sugar  cane,  palms,  coffee  plants,  and  a great  variety  of  brilliant 
flowering  trees  and  shrubs.  — Beyond  (156  M.)  Boca  del  Monte 
(7925  ft.),  where  we  look  down  into  the  valley  3000  ft.  below  us 
(right),  the  train  runs  along  a terrace  on  the  mountain-side,  thread- 
ing several  tunnels  and  crossing  several  bridges.  166  M.  La  Bota. 
At  (169  M.)  Maltrata  (5550  ft.)  we  reach  the  smiling  valley  of  La 
Joya.  A little  farther  on  we  pass  the  wild  gorge  named  the  "^’Barranca 
del  Infiernillo  (‘Little  Hell’),  with  the  Aroyo  de  Maltrata  600  ft. 
below  us.  Near  Orizaba  we  round  the  Cerro  del  Borrego^  where  a 
small  French  force  repulsed  a large  number  of  Mexicans  in  1862. 
— 182  M.  Orizaba  (4090  ft. ; Francia ; La  Borda,  JDiligenciaSj  $ 2 ; 
Restaurant  at  the  station,  good  native  beer),  a quaint  little  town  of 
33,539  inhab.,  lies  in  a valley  surrounded  by  mountains  and  contains 
some  interesting  churches,  with  numerous  examples  of  the  work  of 
the  local  painter  Barranco.  Excellent  fruit  may  be  bought  here  very 
cheaply.  The  reed- thatched  huts  of  this  region  are  thoroughly  tropical 
looking.  An  excursion  may  be  made  by  carriage  or  on  horseback  to 
the  waterfall  of  the  Rincon  Grande.  — Beyond  Orizaba  we  cross  the 
fine  ^Ravine  of  the  Metlac  by  a bridge  92  ft.  high,  and  other  bridges 
and  tunnels  are  passed  (good  engineering).  Fortin.  — 198  M. 

Cdrdoba  (2710  ft. ; fine  fruit),  with  8736  inhabitants. 

Fkom  Cordoba  to  Santa  Lucrecia,  203  M.,  Vera  Cruz  & Pacific  Railway. 
The  one  daily  train  reaches  Perez  in  IIY4  hrs.,  halts  there  for  the  night,  and 
goes  on  next  day  to  (6V2  hrs.)  Santa  Lucrecia.  — 30  M.  Tezonapa;  38  M. 
Acatlan;  58  M.  Tierra  Blavxa.^  the  terminus  of  a branch  from  (62  M.)  Vera 
Cruz.  ^ 124  M.  Perez  (see  above).  — 203  M.  Banta  Lucrecia. 

Santa  Lucrecia  is  also  a station  on  the  Tehuantepec  National  Railway  over 
the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  (193  M.,  in  I2V2  hrs.).  The  line  begins  at 
Coatzacoalcos.  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  54  M.  Juile;  79  M.  Santa  Lucrecia 
(see  above)  \ 103  M.  Palomares  ; 125  M.  Rincon  Antonio ; 162  M.  San  Geronimo ; 
180  M.  Tehuantepec.^  a town  of  10,386  inhab.  \ 193  M.  Salina  Cruz^  on  the 
Pacific  Ocean. 

210  M.  Atoyac  (1510  ft.).  A little  farther  on  are  the  *Falls 
of  the  Atoyac.  216  M.  Paso  del  Macho  (1500  ft.). 

Beyond  this  point  the  scenery  is  uninteresting,  and  this  may  be 
made  the  turning-point  for  those  who  do  not  intend  to  take  ship  at 
Vera  Cruz.  Near  (238  M.)  Soledad  we  cross  the  Jamapa  by  a long 
bridge.  254  M.  Tejeria. 

264  M.  Vera  Cruz  ( Diligencias , $2^/2;  Motel  de  Mexico,  $2; 
U.  S.  Con.,  W.  W.  Canada),  a seaport  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  with 
(1900)  24,085  inhab.  and  a good  harbour,  lies  in  a dreary  sandy 
plain  and  contains  comparatively  little  of  interest  to  the  tourist.  The 
climate  is'hot  and  very  unhealthy  in  summer. 


PUEBLA. 


110.  Route.  625 


Steamers  ply  regularly  from  Vera  Cruz  to  New  York,  New  Orleans, 
Gralveston,  and  other  American  ports  5 and  good  sailors  may  prefer  one  of 
these  routes  in  entering  or  leaving  Mexico. 

b.  ViS.  Puebla  and  Jalapa. 

340  M.  Interoceanic  Railway  (Ferrocarril  Inter oceanico)  in  22  hrs. 
(fares  as  above). 

Mexico^  see  p.  617.  The  railway  follows  the  line  to  Amecameca 
(p.  622)  to  the  S.W.,  along  the  S.  shore  of  Lake  Texcoco,  as  far  as 
(11  M.)  Los  ReyeSj  and  then  turns  to  the  N.  — 39  M.  Texcoco,  on 
the  site  of  the  ancient  town  of  Chilkemeke,  with  Aztec  remains.  — 
44  M.  Otumba  (p.  623) ; 56  M.  Irolo  (p.  623). 

129  M.  Puebla  (7200  ft. ; Diligencias,  Universal,  $ 2;  U.  S.  Con. 
Agent,  Mr.  William  Headen) , the  capital  of  the  state  of  the  same 
name,  with  (1900)  98,191  inhab.,  was  founded  in  1531  and  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive  cities  in  the  country.  The  use  of  glazed  and 
coloured  tiles  in  external  and  internal  decoration  is  a characteristic 
feature.  Its  most  interesting  products  for  tourists  are  the  articles 
made  of  Mexican  onyx,  baskets  and  mats  of  coloured  straw,  and 
pottery.  The  *Oathediial,  dating  from  the  middle  of  the  17th  cent., 
with  later  additions,  is  scarcely  inferior  to  that  of  Mexico  in  size 
and  importance,  while  its  interior  is  more  richly  decorated.  It  is- 
in  the  Spanish  Renaissance  style,  with  a central  dome,  barrel  vault- 
ing, and  two  lofty  towers  (view).  Among  the  points  of  interest  in 
the  interior  are  the  onyx  decorations,  the  marquetry  work,  the  paint- 
ings, the  tapestry,  the  altars,  and  the  organ-cases.  — Other  interest- 
ing churches  are  those  of  San  Francisco,  La  Compania,  and  Nuestra 
Senora  del  Carmen.  — Near  the  railway  station  is  a large  new  Peni- 
tentiary. — A monument  has  been  erected  to  the  victims  of  the  war 
ot  1862-3  (see  below).  — The  ^Paseo  along  the  Rio  Atoyac  affords 
a pleasant  walk.  — A visit  should  be  paid  to  Fort  Guadalupe,  on 
the  hill  where  took  place  the  famous  battle  of  the  Cinco  de  Mayo 
(1862).  The  fort  commands  a splendid  *‘‘'View,  including  Mts. 
Popocatepetl,  Ixtaccihuatl,  Orizaba,  and  Malintzi. 

About  8 M.  to  the  W.  of  Puebla  (railway)  is  Cholula  (6910  ft. ; 7000  in- 
hab.),  with  some  interesting  churches  and  the  famous  "Pyramid  of  Cholula, 
an  artificial  mound  of  sun-dried  brick  and  clay,  204  ft.  high,  with  a base 
about  1000  ft.  square  (approximately).  It  is  built  in  terraces,  three  of 
which  are  distinctly  recognizable.  The  top,  consisting  of  a platform  165  ft. 
square,  crowned  by  the  Church  of  the  Virgin  de  los  Remedies,  is  reached 
by  a winding  stone-paved  road,  ending  in  a flight  of  steps.  The  *View 
is  very  fine.  The  construction  of  the  pyramid  is  ascribed  to  the  Olmecs 
or  Toltecs,  but  its  date  and  purpose  are  obscure. 

From  Puebla  to  Oaxaca,  228  M.,  Mexican  Southern  Railway  (Ferro) 
carril  Mexicano  del  Sur)  in  13  hrs.  (one  train  daily  in  each  direction : re- 
turn-fare $15,  from  Mexico  City  $20.50;  tickets  available  for  30  days. 
This  line  traverses  one  of  the  finest  districts  in  Mexico,  the  greater  portion 
lying  amid  tropical  scenery,  though  the  termini  are  both  in  the  temperate 
zone.  — 11  M.  Amozoc  is  the  highest  point  on  the  line  (7500  ft.).  Beyond  a 
beautiful  valley  affording  glimpses  of  Malintzi  and  other  volcanoes  and  com- 
manding a distant  view  of  Popocatepetl  (p.  622),  the  organ-cactus  trees 
become  a prominent  feature,  and  the  prickly  pear,  mesquite,  huisache,  and 
Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit.  40 


626  Route  110.  JALAPA. 


lechuguilla  gradually  give  place  to  date-palms  and  plantains.  — 79  M.  Tehua- 
can  (several  hotels),  a beautifully  situated  and  frequented  resort,  with  7395 
inhab.,  has  mineral  springs  and  baths  resembling  those  of  (Carlsbad.  A branch- 
railway runs  hence  to  (31  M.)  Esperanza  (p.  623).  — At  (112  M.)  Vmia  Salada 
the  first  sugar-cane  plantations  are  reached.  121  M.  San  Antonio.  The  train 
now  enters  the  savage  Cuez  Cation.^  rivalling  the  canons  of  Colorado.  146  M. 
Quiotepec  is  the  lowest  point  on  the  line  (1650  ft.);  and  at  (159  M.)  Tomellin 
(dinner  station)  begins  the  steep  ascent.  We  mount  through  the  rapidly 
changing  vegetation  of  the  beautiful  Tomellin  Canon.^  and  at  (200  M.)  Las  Sedas 
(6!^0ft.)find  ourselves  amongst  pine-woods.  — 228M.  Oaxaca(pron.‘Wahaka’ ; 
several  hotels),  an  ancient  historical  city  with  (1900)  35,049  inhab.,  is  one 
of  the  most  flourishing  in  Mexico.  It  was  the  birthplace  of  Presidents  Juarez 
(1806-72;  monument)  and  Porfirio  Diaz  (1830).  Carriages  and  horses  may 
be  obtained  here  for  numerous  excursions  in  the  vicinity,  including  those 
to  (20  M.)  the  celebrated  ruins  of  Mitla  (good  accommodation  at  a hacienda) 
and  to  Monte  Alban.  Cortez  took  the  title  of  Duke  of  Oaxaca  from  this 
valley.  — Beyond  Oaxaca  the  railway  proceeds  to  the  S.,  via  (24M.)  Ocatlan.^ 
to  (31  M.)  Ejutla. 

From  PoEBLA  TO  Tlancdalpican,  77  M.,  Interoceanic  Railway  in  5^/4  hrs. 

— 28  M.  Atlixco ; 52  M.  Matamoros  (not  to  be  confounded  with  the  place 
named  at  p.  613).  — 77  M.  Tlancualpican. 

163  M.  San  Marcos  (p.  592),  the  junction  of  the  Mexican  Railway. 

— From  (181  M.)  Virreyes  a branch-line  runs  to  the  N.E.  to  (50  M.) 
Teziutlan^  with  copper-mines.  — Beyond  (210  M.)  Perote  we  skirt 
the  N.  side  of  the  Cofre  de  Perote,  passing  great  fields  of  lava. 

258  M.  Jalapa  (4395  ft.;  ^Qran  Hotel;  Mexicano,  $2),  a quaint 
old  city  with  (1900)  20,388  inhab.,  beautifully  situated  among  the 
mountains,  is  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Vera  Cruz  and,  perhaps,  the 
most  charming  summer-resort  in  Mexico,  with  a cool  and  refreshing 
climate.  Many  delightful  excursions  can  be  made  from  it.  Jalap 
derives  its  name  from  this  city.  The  women  of  Jalapa  are  disting- 
uished for  their  beauty.  — 340  M.  Vera  Cruz,  see  p.  624. 


INDEX 


Abbreviations  of  Names  of  States  and  Territories,  see  p.  xlvii. 


Abbeville,  S.C.  428. 
Abbotsford,  Wis.  364. 
Abilene,  Kan.  512. 
Abingdon,  Va.  424. 
Abington,  Mass.  117. 
Absaroka  Mts.,  Wyo.  488. 
Abrahams  Mt.,  Colo.  534. 
Absecon  Island  280. 
Acambaro,  Mex.  611. 
Acapulco,  Mex.  622. 
Acatlan,  Mex.  624. 
Acoma,  N.  M.  521. 

Acton,  Cal.  565. 
Adamana,  Ariz.  521. 
Adams,  Mass.  172. 

— Mt.,  N.  H.  163.  171. 

, Wash.  476. 506. 586. 

Addison  Junction,  N.  Y. 

184. 

Adirondack,  N.  Y.  220. 

— Junction,  Can.  186. 

— Lodge,  N.Y.  219. 

— Mts.,  N.  Y.  209. 
Adrian,  Mich.  333. 

— , Mex.  613. 

Afton,  Va.  380. 

— “ Junction,  la.  508. 
Agassiz  Mt.,  N.H.  166. 
Agnews,  Cal.  557. 

Aguas  Calientes,  Mex.  615. 
Ahoskey,  N.  C.  418. 
Ahwanee,  Cal.  575. 
Aiken,  S.  C.  438. 

Ajusco,  Mex.  622. 

Akron,  Colo.  496. 

— , Ohio  345. 

Alabama  420. 

Alameda,  Cal.  552. 
Alamosa,  Colo.  532.  535. 
Alaska  600. 

Albany,  Ga.  444. 

— , N.  Y.  196. 

— , Ore.  584. 

Albert  Lea,  Minn.  363. 

365.  495. 

Albia,  la.  495. 

Albina,  Ore.  506. 

Albion,  Mich.  339. 
Albuquerque,  N.  M.  520. 
Alburgh,  Vt.  154. 
Alcalde,  Cal.  565. 


Alcatraz  Island,  Cal.  551. 
Alert  Bay,  B.  C.  599. 
Aleutian  Islands  601. 
Alexander,  N.  C.  433. 

— Archipelago,  Alaska 
602. 

Alexandria,  La.  595. 

— , Minn.  875. 

Va.  325.  408.  417. 

— Bay,  N.  Y.  255. 

Alger,  Mich.  338. 

Algiers,  La.  462.  594. 
Algonquin,  N.Y.  213. 
Alhambra,  111.  376. 

— Valley,  Cal.  526. 
Allamore,  Tex.  596. 
Alleghany,  Va.  381. 
Allegheny  City,  Pa.  299. 

— Mts.,  Pa.  285.  291.  329. 
381. 

— River  285. 

— Springs,  Va.  423. 
Allen,  Wyo.  498. 

•»-  Junction,  Minn.  371. 
Allendale,  S.  C.  440. 
Allende,  Mex.  612. 
Allentown,  Pa.  282. 

All  Healing  Springs,  N.  C. 
418. 

Alliance,  O.  326. 

Alma,  Cal.  555. 

— , Colo.  516. 

Almaden  Mines,  Cal.  558. 
Alpine  Tunnel,  Colo.  516. 
Alta,  Cal.  501. 

Altadena,  Cal.  570. 
Altamont,  111.  388. 

-,  Md.  329. 

— , Mo.  508. 

— , N.  Y.  201. 

Alton,  111.  377.  405. 

— Bay,  N.  H.  155.  127. 
Altoona,  Pa.  289. 

Alum  Springs,  Tenn.  398. 
Alvarado,  Cal.  555. 
Alvin,  Tex.  518. 

Alviso,  Cal.  555. 

Amana,  la.  493. 
Amarillo,  Tex.  596. 
Ameca,  Mex.  616. 
Amecameca,  Mex.  622. 


Amelia  Island,  Fla.  446. 
Amenia,  N.  Y.  68. 
American  Falls , Idaho 
504. 

Americus,  Ga.  442. 
Ames,  la.  493. 

— Mills,  N.  Y.  212. 
Amesbury,  Mass.  125. 
Amherst,  Mass.  83.  182. 
— , N.H.  152. 

Amity,  Colo.  518. 
Ammonoosuc  River  143. 
156.  164. 

— Falls,  N.  H.  165. 
Amozoc,  Mex.  625. 
Ampersand  Mt.,  N.  Y.  213. 
Amsterdam,  N.  Y.  232. 
Anaconda,  Colo.  538. 

— , Mont.  473. 

Anaheim,  Cal.  571. 
Anchorage,  Ky.  398. 
Ancona,  111.  506. 
Anderson,  W.  Va.  329. 

— , Ind.  379.  387. 
Andersonville,  Ga.  442. 
Andover,  Mass.  126. 

-,  Me.  140. 

Androscoggin  River  129. 
139.  140.  143. 

— Lakes,  Me.  141. 
Angevin  Mt.,  Cal.  553. 
Animas  Canon,  Colo.  533. 
Ann,  Cape,  Mass.  123. 
Anna,  111.  402. 

Annapolis,  Md.  307. 

Ann  Arbor,  Mich.  339. 
Anniston,  Ga.  420. 
Anoka,  Minn.  375.  470. 
— , Ind.  327. 

Antelope  Island,  Utah  537. 
Anthony’s  Nose,  N.  Y. 
189.  192. 

Antietam,  Md.  429. 
Antioch,  111.  364. 
Antonito,  Colo.  532. 
Antwerp,  0.  388. 
Apalachicola,  Fla.  461. 
Apam,  Mex.  623. 

Apex,  Ariz.  522. 

— , N.Y.  344. 

Apizaco,  Mex.  623. 

40* 


628 


INDEX. 


Appalachia,  N.H.  143. 163. 
Appledore  Island,  N.H. 

Apostle  Islands,  Wis.  373. 
Appomattox,  Va.  417. 
Aptos,  Cal.  559. 

Apulco,  Mex.  622. 
Aransas  Pass,  Tex.  592. 
Arapahoe,  Colo.  513. 
Ararat  Summit,  Pa.  284. 
Arbol  de  la  NocheTriste 
621. 

Arholes,  Colo.  533. 
Arcadia,  Cal.  569. 

— , la.  493. 

— , O.  334. 

Arch  Creek,  Fla.  453. 
Archer,  Fla.  459. 
Archibald,  Ind.  333. 
Areola,  111.  402. 

Ardmore,  I.  T.  507.  518. 
Ardsley,  N.Y.  192. 

Argo,  Colo.  514. 

Arizona  521.  587. 
Arkansas  (state)  511. 

— Canon,  Colo.  534. 

— City,  Ark.  406. 

, Kan.  518. 

— River  406.  518.  534. 
Arkville,  N.Y.  209. 
Arlington,  Colo.  510. 

— , Ore.  505. 

— , Wash.  470. 

— Heights,  Mass.  116. 

— House,  Va.  325. 
Armstrong,  Fla.  449. 
Aroostock,  Can.  132. 
Arrochar,  N.Y.  67. 
Arrowhead  Hot  Springs, 

Cal.  526. 

Arroyo  Seco  Canon,  Cal. 
570. 

Arvada,  Colo.  514. 
Arverne,  N.Y.  74. 
Asbury  Park,  N.J.  276. 
Ascutney  Mt.,  N.  H.  183. 
Ashby,  Minn.  375. 
Asheville,  N.  C.  431. 

Ash  Fork,  Ariz.  524. 
Ashland,  Ky.  382.  397. 

Me.  132. 

— , Neb.  495. 

N.  H.  155. 

— , Ore.  583. 

Va.  408. 

-,  Wis.  372. 

Ashley  Falls,  Mass.  174. 

— Junction,  S.  C.434. 439. 
Ashtabula,  O.  333. 
Aspen,  Colo.  538. 
Asticou,  Me.  138. 

Astor,  Fla.  455. 

Astoria,  Ore.  478.  585. 


Atchison,  Kan.  506.  517, 
Athens,  Ga.  428.  419. 

— , N.  Y.  191.  193. 

— , O.  383. 

-,  Pa.  284. 

— , Tenn.  425. 

Athol,  Mass.  174. 

Atla,  Mex.  611. 

Atlanta,  Ga.  419.  426, 
Atlantic,  Mass.  94. 

— Beach,  Fla.  446., 

— City,  N.J.  280. 

— Highlands,  N.  J.  277. 
Atlixko,  Mex.  626. 

Atoka,  I.T.  507. 

Atoyac,  Mex.  624. 

Attala,  Ala.  426. 

Attica,  Ind.  388. 

-,  N.  Y.  247. 

Attleboro,  Mass.  86. 
Atzcapotzalco,  Mex.  621, 
Auburn,  Cal.  501. 

Me.  139. 

-,  N.  Y.  236. 

~,  Pa.  286. 

-,  Wash.  477. 
Auburndale,  Mass.  82. 
Augusta,  Ga.  438. 

— , Me.  130. 

— , Wis.  363. 

Aura,  Mex.  612. 
Auriesville,  N.  Y.  242. 
Aurora,  111.  364.  494. 

— , Ind.  389.  400. 

— , N.  Y.  236. 

Ausable  Chasm,  N.  Y,  214, 
185.  231. 

— Forks,  N.  Y.  185.  214, 
216. 

— Lakes,  N.Y.  217. 
Austin,  Tex.  592. 

— Bluffs,  Colo.  529. 

Au  Train,  Mich.  372. 
Avalanche  Lake,  N.Y.  219, 
Avalon,  Cal.  568. 

Avoca,  Pa.  284. 

Avon,  N.J.  277. 

Ayer,  Me.  132. 

Ayer’s  June.,  Mass.  147. 
Azusa,  Cal.  527. 

Babylon,  N.Y.  75. 
Baden,  Cal.  556. 

Bad  Lands,  N.  D.  472. 
Bagdad,  Cal.  525. 
Bahama  Islands  454. 
Baird  Glacier,  Alas.  603. 
Bajan,  Mex.  d12. 

Baker  City,  Ore.  504. 

— Mt.,  Wash.  597. 
Bakersfield,  Cal.  525.  565. 
Bald  Eagle  Lake,  Minn. 

370. 


Bald  Head,  Mass.  178. 

— Knob,  Ark.  511. 

— Mt.,  Colo.  529. 

, N.H.  167. 

— Mts.,  Tenn.  433. 
Baldwin,  Colo.  516. 

Fla.  459.  460. 

— , N.Y.  229.  184. 
Baldwin  Place,  N.Y.  68. 
Ballarat,  Cal.  525. 
Ballston  Spa,  N.Y.  184. 
Balsam,  N.  C.  433. 

— Mts.,  N.  C.  433. 
Balsas,  Mex.  622. 
Baltimore,  Md._301. 
Bandini,  Cal.  571. 
Bangor,  Me.  131. 
Banning,  Cal.  587. 
Bantam  Lake,  Ct.  173. 
Baraboo,  Wis.  363. 
Bardstown,  Ky.  398. 

Bar  Harbor,  Me.  135.  133. 

Ferry,  Me.  132. 

Barker,  Mont.  468. 
Barnegat  Bay,  N.J.  278. 

— City,  N.J.  279. 
Barnesville,  Ga.  442. 

— , Minn.  376.  467. 
6arnet,  Vt.  156. 
Barnstable,  Mass.  120. 
Barnwell,  Cal.  525. 
Barranca,  N.  M.  532. 
Barstow,  Cal.  525. 
Bartlett,  N.  H.  145. 
Bartow,  Fla.  457. 

Basalt,  Colo.  538. 

Basic  City,  Va.  381.  430. 
Bassett,  Cal.  586. 

Bass’s  Camp.,  Ariz.  523. 
Batavia,  N.  Y.  239. 

Bath,  Colo.  516. 

— , Me.  133. 

— , N.  H.  156. 

Baton  Rouge,  La.  402. 407. 
595. 

Battle  Creek,  Mich.  339# 
340. 

— Mt.,  Nev.  499. 

Baxter  Mt.,  N.  Y.  218. 
Bayard,  Fla.  447. 

Bay  City,  Mich.  338. 
Bayfield,  Wis.  373. 
Bayou  Goula,  La.  407. 

— Sara,  La.  407. 

— Teche,  La.  594. 

Bay  Ridge,  Md.  306. 

— St.  Louis,  Miss.  422. 

— Shore,  N.Y.  74.  75. 

— Side,  N.Y.  279. 

Beach  Bluff,  Mass.  121. 

— Haven,  N.  J.  279. 
Bean’s,  Tenn.  424. 

Bear  Lake,  Idaho  503. 


INDEX. 


629 


Bearmouth,  Mont.  474. 
Bear  Paw  Mts.,  Mont.  467. 
— River  Canon,  Idaho 
499. 

— Valley,  Cal.  589. 
Beaufort,  S.  C.  439. 
Beauharnois , Can.  186. 

256. 

Beanmont,  Cal.  587. 

Tex.  594. 

Beauvoir,  Miss.  422. 
Beaver  Falls,  Pa.  326. 

— Gap,  Ky.  397. 

— Lake,  Wyo.  484. 
Becket,  Mass.  172. 
Bedford,  Va.  423. 

— Springs,  Pa.  289. 
Bedloe’s  Island,  N.  Y.  3. 
Beech  Cliff,  Me.  139. 

— Hill,  Me.  139. 
Beecher's  Falls,  Can.  146. 
Belen,  N.  M.  520. 

Belfast,  Me.  130. 

Belfield,  N.  D.  472. 
Belgrade,  Me.  139. 

Bella  Bella,  B.  C.  600. 
Bellair,  Fla.  460. 

Bellaire,  0.  329. 

Belleair,  Fla.  457. 
Bellefontaine,  O.  387. 
Belle  Isle,  Mich.  337. 

— Plaine,  la.  493. 
Belleville,  111.  394. 

Kan.  512. 

Neb.  496. 

Bellevue,  O.  334. 

Bellows  Falls, Vt.  148. 183. 
Bellport,  N.  Y.  75. 
Belmont,  Cal.  556. 

— Plantation,  La.  407. 
Beloit  Wis.  362. 

Belpre,  O.  383. 

Belt  Mts.,  Mont.  473. 
Belton,  Mont.  468. 
Bemidgi,  Minn.  47'1. 
Bemis,  Me.  140. 

N.  H.  145.  164. 
Benicia,  Cal.  502. 
Bennett,  Can.  605. 
Bennettsville,  S.  C.  434. 
Bennington,  Vt.  186. 
Benson,  Ariz.  588. 

— , Minn.  375. 

— Mines,  N.  Y.  234. 
Benwood,  W.  Va.  329. 
Berea,  0.  383. 

Berenda,  Cal.  564.  575. 
Beresford,  Fla.  455.  456. 
Berkeley,  Cal.  502. 

— , Va.  413. 

Berkshire  Hills,  Mass.  174. 
Berlin,  Ct.  78. 

— Falls,  N.  H.  143. 


Bernardston,  Mass.  182. 
Bessemer,  Ala.  427. 

-,  Pa.  298. 

Bethel,  Ct.  173. 

— , Me.  143. 

Bethesda,  Ga.  442. 
Bethlehem,  N.  H.  166. 155. 
-,  Pa.  281. 

Bethune,  S.  C.  445. 
Beverly,  Mass.  123. 
Bibon,  Wis.  371. 
Biddeford,  Me.  127. 

Big  Belt  Mts.,  Mont.  473. 
Bigelow,  Me.  140. 

Biggs,  Cal.  582. 

Big  Horn,  Mont.  472. 

— Indian,  N.  Y.  208. 

— Moose,  N.  Y.  223. 

— Oak  Flat,  Cal.  502. 
574.  581. 

— Springs,  Tex.  596. 

— Stone  Junct.,  Va.  423. 

— Timber,  Mont.  472. 

— Trees,  Cal.  555. 

— Tree  Station,  Cal.  575. 
Billings,  Mont.  472.  496. 
Bill  Williams  Mt.,  Ariz. 

522. 

Biloxi,  Miss.  422. 
Biltmore,  N.  C.  432. 
Bingham,  Utah  537. 
Binghamton,  N.  Y.  244. 
202.  247. 

Bird’s  Eye,  Colo.  516. 

— Point,  Mo.  511. 
Birmingham,  Ala.  426. 
Biscay ne  Bay,  Fla.  453. 
Bismarck  Mo.  511. 

— , N.  D.  471. 

Black  Butte  Summit,  Cal. 
583. 

— Canon,  Colo.  536. 

— Dome,  N.  Y.  207. 
Blackfoot,  Mont.  468. 
Black  Hawk,  Colo.  515. 
, Ark.  406. 

— Hills,  S.D..  497. 

— Mt.,  N.  Y.  229. 

Station,  N.  C.  431. 

— Point,  Fla.  454. 

— Rock,  N.  Y.  242. 
Blackstone,  Mass.  87. 
Blackville,  S.  C.  438.  440. 
Blackwell's  Island,  N.Y. 

66.  88. 

Blaine,  Wash.  470. 

Blairs,  Va.  413. 
Blairsville,  Pa.  291. 
Blanca  Peak,  Colo.  516. 
532. 

Blanchester,  O.  383. 

Block  Island,  R.  I.  83. 
Blockton,  la.  508. 


Blodgett,  111.  506. 

Bloody  Brook,  Ct.  182. 
Bloomington,  111.  377. 
Bloomville,  N.Y.  209. 
Blowing  Rock,  N.  C.  431. 
Blue  Canon,  Cal.  501. 
Bluefield,  W.  Va.  423. 
Blue  Grass  Region,  Ky. 
397. 

— Island  .Tunct.,  Ind.  340. 

— Lakes,  Idaho  504, 

— Mt.,  N.  Y.  222. 

Forest  Park,  N.  H. 

152. 

House,  Pa.  307. 

Lake,  N.  Y.  222. 

— Mts.,  Ore.  504. 

, Pa.  243.  282.  286. 

288. 

— Point,  N.  Y.  75. 

— Ridge,  Md.  307. 

, Va.  423. 

Mts.  307.  380.  423. 

429. 

— Spring,  Fla.  455.  456. 
Bluestone  Junct.,  W.  Va. 

423. 

Bluff  Point,  N.  Y.  231. 
Boca  del  Monte,  Mex.  624. 
Bog  Lake,  N.  Y.  223. 
Boiceville,  N.  Y.  207. 
Boise  City,  Idaho  503. 
Bola,  Mex.  612. 

Bolivar,  Pa.  291. 

Bolton,  N.  Y.  229. 
Bonner,  Mont.  474. 
Bonner's  Ferry,  Idaho 
468. 

Bonneville,  Ore.  506. 
Boone,  Colo.  510. 
la.  493. 

Boonville,  N.  Y.  234. 
Boothbay,  Me.  133. 
Bordentown,  N.  J.  258. 
Boreas,  Colo.  516. 
Boston,  Mass.  94. 

Art  Exhibitions  97. 
Back  Bay  110. 

Fens  110. 

Beacon  Mon.  102. 

— Street  110. 

Boston  Art  Club  109. 

— Athenseum  102. 

— Athletic  Assoc.  109. 
— Common  100. 

— Medical  Library  110. 
— University  102. 
Boylston  Street  104. 
Cambridge  112. 
Cemeteries  100.  114. 
Chamber  of  Comm.  103. 
Charities  111. 
Qharlesbank  112. 


630 


INDEX. 


Boston : 

Charlestown  115. 
Chickering  Hall  109 
Churches ; 

Advent  112. 

Arlington  St.  ICO. 
Brattle  Sq.  109. 
Cathedral  of  the  Holy 
Cross  111. 

Central  Congreg.  109 
Christ  111. 

Christian  Scientist 
109. 

Emmanuel  109. 

First  Baptist  109. 

— Unitarian  109. 
Immaculate  Concep- 
tion 111. 

Mt.  Vernon  109. 

New  Old  South  109 
Second  106. 

Spiritual  Temple  109. 
Tremont  Temple  112. 
Trinity  105. 

City  Hall  102. 

Clubs  97. 

Commonwealth  Ave. 

109. 

Concerts  97. 
Congregational  Build 

Conserv.  of  Music  109 
Copley  Square  104. 
Coop's  Hill  Burial 
Ground  111. 

Custom  House  103. 
Equitable  Build.  104. 
Exchange  103. 

Faneuil  Hall  103. 
Fenway  Court  110. 
Franklin  Park  111. 
Gov.  Building  103. 
Harbour  115. 

Harvard  Medical  School 

110. 

— University  112. 

Hist. -Gen.  Society  102, 
Horace  Mann  School 

109. 

Horticultural  Hall  109. 
Huntington  Ave.  109. 
Jordan  Hall  97.  109. 
King's  Chapel  102. 
Marine  Park  112. 
Masonic  Temple  112. 
Massachusetts  Hist.Soc. 

110. 

— Inst,  of  Technology 
104. 

Mechanics  Hall  97.  109. 
Museum  of  Fine  Arts 
106. 

— of  Natural  Hist.  104. 


Boston : 

New  Century  Building 
109. 

— County  Court  House 
102. 

Normal  Art  School  109. 
North  End  111. 

Park  111. 

Old  Corner  Book  Store 
103. 

— Court  House  102. 

— Granary  Burial 
Ground  lUO. 

— South  Meeting 
House  104. 

— State  House  103. 
Perkins  Institute  111 
Places  of  Amusement 
97. 

Post  Office  98. 103. 
Public  Garden  100. 

— Library  105. 

Quincy  Market  103. 
Railway  Stations  94. 
School  Street  103. 

Shaw  Monument  102. 
State  House  101. 

— Street  1C3. 

Statues : 

Adams  112. 

Channing  100. 
Columbus  111. 

Devens  102. 

Ericson  109. 

Farragut  112. 
Franklin  102. 

Glover  109. 

Hamilton  109. 
Hooker  102. 

Lloyd  Garrison  109. 
Mann  101. 

Quincy  102. 

Webster  101. 
Winthrop  112. 
Steamboats  95. 

Street  Railways  97. 
Subway  101. 

Symphony  Hall  97. 
Theatres  97. 

Tremont  Build.  112. 
Unitarian  Building  102. 
Warren  Museum  112. 
Washington  Street  103. 
Young  Men’s  Christ 
Assoc.  104. 

Youth’s  Companion 
Build.  112. 

Boulder,  Colo.  515. 
Bound  Brook,  N.  J.  247. 
258. 

Bowdoin,  Mont.  467. 
Bjowie,  Ariz.  588. 
Bowling  Green,  Ky.  399. 


Bowman,  N.  H.  143.  163. 
Boyce,  Tenn.  398. 
Boynton,  Fla  453. 
Bozeman,  Mont.  473. 
Bracey,  Va.  427. 
Braddock’s,  Pa.  291. 
Bradford,  Mass.  127. 

N.  H.  152. 

-,  0.  327. 

Braidentown,  Fla.  460. 
Brainerd,  Minn.  420. 
Braintree,  Mass.  94. 
Branchport,  N.  J.  276. 
Branchville,  Ct.  173. 

— , S.  C.  435.  438. 
Brandon,  Colo.  510. 

Va.  413. 

-,  Vt.  149. 

Brandywine,  Del.  300. 
Branford,  Ct.  83. 
Brattleboro,  Vt.  182. 
Breadloaf  Inn,  Vt.  149. 
Breckenridge,  Colo.  516. 
Breckinridge,  Minn.  375. 
Brentwood,  N.  Y.  75. 
Bretton  Woods,  N.  H. 
145.  165. 

Brevard,  N.  C.  433. 
Brewer,  Ga.  442. 
Brewster,  N.  Y.  68. 

— , Mass.  120. 

Briarcliff,  N.  Y.  68. 
Bridal  Veil  Fall,  Cal.  579. 
Bridgehampton,  N.  Y.  75. 
Bridge  Junction,  111.  376. 
Bridgeport.  Ala.  426. 

— , Colo.  536. 

Ct.  76. 

-,  Pa.  285.  307. 
Bridgeton,  N.  J.  279. 
Bridgewater,  Mass.  119. 
94.  117. 

-,  N.  H.  155. 

Bridgton,  Me.  144. 
Brigantine  Beach,  N.  J. 
280. 

Brigham,  Utah  499. 
Brighton,  Colo.  517. 
Mass.  82. 

Beach,  N.  Y.  74. 
Bristol,  N.  H.  153. 

-,  Pa.  258. 

— , R.  I.  86. 

— , Tenn.  424. 

British  Columbia  470. 
Brockton,  Mass.  119. 

N.  Y.  330. 

Brockville,  Ont.  255. 
Brook  Farm,  Mass.  116. 
Brookfield,  Ct.  174. 

-,  Wis.  361. 
Brookhaven,  Miss.  403. 
Brookline,  Mass.  116. 


INDEX. 


631 


Brooklyn,  Ct.  88. 

N.  Y.  69. 

Brooksville,  Fla.  459. 
Brown  Canon,  Colo.  535. 
Brownell,  Kan.  570. 
Brown’s  Peak,  Cal.  571. 
Brownsville,  Pa.  299. 
Brownville,  Me.  132. 
Brace,  N.  C.  418. 
Braceville,  Md.  307. 
Brunswick,  Gra.  426. 

-,  Me.  129. 

— , Mo.  508. 

— Springs,  N.  H.  144. 
Bryan,  Wyo.  498. 
Bryant’s  Pond,  Me.  143. 
Bryn  Mawr,  Pa.  287. 
Backfield,  Me.  140. 
Buckrow  Beach,  Va.  416. 
Bucyrus,  O.  326. 

Budd’s  Lake,  N.  J.  243. 
Buena  Vista,  Colo.  516. 

535.  538. 

, Md.  307. 

, Mex.  610. 

, Pa.  307. 

, Va.  430. 

Buffalo,  K.  Y.  239. 

- Bluff,  Fla.  455.  456. 
Bull  Run,  Va.  417. 
Bunker  Hill,  Mass.  115. 
Bunkie,  La.  595. 

Bunsen  Peak,  Mont.  482. 

483. 

Burbank,  Cal.  563.  566. 
Burgin,  Ky.  397. 
Burkeville,  Va.  434. 
Burlingame,  Kan.  517. 
Burlington,  la.  494.  405. 
— , m.  418. 

Vt.  149. 

Burnham,  Me.  130. 
Burnside,  Ky.  397. 

Burnt  River,  Ore.  504. 
Burroughs,  Ga.  445. 
Bushkill,  Pa.  246. 
Bushnell,  Neb.  497. 

S.  D.  509. 


Cairo,  N.Y.  203. 

Cajon  Pass,  Cal.  526. 
Calais,  Can.  132. 
Calaveras  Grove,  Cal.  501. 
Caldwell,  Idaho  504. 

— , Mex.  614. 

-,  N.Y.  228. 

Calera,  Ala.  400. 

Calhoun  Falls,  Ga.  428. 
Caliente,  Cal.  565. 
Calientes,  T'tah  543. 
California  500. 

— , University  of  502. 
Calistoga,  Cal.  553. 
Callahan,  Fla.  444. 
Calumet,  Mich.  372. 
Calva-Visalia,  Cal.  525. 
Camacho,  Mex.  6i4. 
Camak,  Ga.  439. 
Cambridge,  Mass.  112. 

— Junction,  Vt.  154. 

— Springs,  Pa.  345. 
Camden,  Me.  133. 

N.  J.  275. 

-,  S.  C.  445. 

Camel’s  Hump,  Vt.  154. 
Cameron,  Cal.  565. 

— , Colo.  531. 

— , Mo.  509. 

-,  N.  C.  428. 

— Junction,  Mo.  508. 
Campbell  Hall,  N.  Y.  343. 
Camp  Douglas,  Wis.  363. 

— Ellis,  N.H.  127. 
Campobello,  Can.  142. 
Pamp  Point,  111.  509. 

— Rochester,  Cal.  525. 

— Taylor,  Cal.  552. 

— Vacation,  Cal.  552. 
Camulos,  Cal.  563. 
Canaan  Ct.  174. 

— , N.  H.  153. 
Canajoharie,  N.  Y.  242. 
Canandaigua,  N.  Y.  238. 
Canastota,  N.  Y.  234. 
Canatlan,  Mex.  613. 
Candarago  Lake,  N.  Y. 
234. 


Butte,  Mont.  473. 
Buzzard’s  Bay,  Mass.  120. 
118. 

Byron,  Cal.  564. 

Cabazon,  Cal.  587. 
Cabinet  Mis.,  Mont.  468. 
475. 

Cabin  John  Bridge,  D.  C. 
326. 

Cache  Junction,  Utah  499. 
Cadosia,  N.  Y.  344. 
Cadyville,  N.  Y.  211. 
Csesar’s  Head,  N.  C.  433. 
Cairo,  111.  402.  406. 


Cannon  Mt.,  N.  H.  167. 
Canon  City,  Colo.  534. 

— Diablo,  Ariz.  521. 
Canterbury,  N.  H.  154. 
Canton,  Mass.  86. 

— , Me.  140. 

— , Miss.  403. 

— , Mo.  405. 

0.  326. 

Cap  au  Gris,  Mo.  405. 
Cape  Ann,  Mass.  123. 

— Charles,  Va.  301. 

— Cod,  Mass.  120. 

— Girardeau,  Mo.  406. 

— Horn,  Cal.  501. 


Cape  May,  N.  J.  281. 
Capistrano,  Cal.  571. 
Capitan,  El,  Cal.  577. 
Capitol  a.  Cal.  559. 
Carbondale,  111.  402. 

Pa.  284. 

Cardenas,  Mex.  615. 
Caribou,  Me.  132. 

Carlin,  Nev.  499. 
Carlisle,  Pa.  288. 

— , S.  C.  428. 

Carmel,  N.  Y.  68. 
Carmelo  Mission,  Cal.  560. 
Carneros,  Mex.  610. 
Carolina,  R.  I.  84. 

— , North,  434. 

— , South,  435. 
Carpinteria,  Cal.  563. 
Carquinez  Straits,  Cal. 
526. 

Carrabasset,  Me.  140. 
Carrabelle,  Fla.  461. 
Carrigain  Mt.,  N.H.  145. 
Carrizo  Mts.,  Tex.  596. 
Carrollton,  Ga.  442. 

— , La.  407. 

— , Mo.  508. 

— , N.Y.  344. 

Carson,  Nev.  500. 

Carter,  Wyo.  498. 

— Mt.,  N.  H.  162. 
Carthage,  N.  C.  428. 

-,  N.  Y.  234. 

— Junction,  111.  494. 
Casa  Grande,  Ariz.  588. 
Casas  Grandes,  Mex.  613. 
Cascade  Canon,  Colo.  537. 

— Lake,  N.  Y.  215. 

— Locks,  Ore.  508. 

— Mts.,  Wash.  476.  505. 

— Tunnel  Station,  Wash. 
469. 

Casco  Bay,  Me.  129. 
Casselton,  N.  D.  471. 
Cassville,  Wis.  404. 
Castaic,  Cal.  563. 
Castano,  Mex.  612. 
Castile,  N.  Y.  247. 
Castine,  Me.  134. 

Castle,  N.  Y.  344. 

— Canon,  Utah  536. 

— Crag,  Cal.  582. 

— Dome  Mts.,  Ariz.  588. 

— Gate,  Utah  536. 

— Rock  Colo.  528. 

, Ore.  505. 

, Utah  498. 

— Stevens,  N.  J.  67. 
Castleton,  N.  Y.  197. 
Castroville,  Cal.  559. 
Cataract  Canon,  Ariz.  524. 
Catasauqua,  Pa.  282. 
Catawba, S.C.  435. 428. 431. 


632 


INDEX. 


Catawissa,  Pa.  286. 
Cathedral  Park,  Colo.  532. 

— Rocks,  Cal.  579. 
Catherine  Lake,  La.  422. 
Catlettshnrg,  Ky.  382. 
Catorce,  Mex.  610. 
Catskill,  N.  Y.  203.  190. 

193  196. 

— Mt.  House,  N.  Y.  204. 

— Mts.,  1^.  Y.  202. 
Cavendish,  Vt.  148. 
Cayuga  Lake,  N.  Y.  236. 
Cazadero,  Cal.  552. 

— , Mex.  617. 

Ceballos,  Mex.  614. 
Cecilia,  Ky.  400. 

Cedar  Creek,  Colo.  536. 

— Falls,  la.  365. 

— Key,  Fla.  459. 

— Point,  Colo.  513. 

— Rapids,  la.  493. 

— Swamp,  N.J.  84. 
Cedral,  Mex.  610. 

Celaya,  Mex.  611.  616. 
Celilo,  Ore.  505. 

Center  Harbor,  N.  H.  155. 

— Village,  N.Y.  384. 
Central  City,  Colo.  515. 

, Ky.  400. 

Centralia,  111.  394.  402. 
— , Wash.  478. 

Cerro  Summit,  Colo.  536. 
Chaffin  Bluff,  Va.  413. 
Chalmette,  La.  466. 
Chama,  K.M.  533. 
Chambersburg,  Pa.  292. 
307. 

Champaign,  111.  402. 
Champlain,  N.Y.  150. 

— Hotel,  N.Y.  231. 

— Lake,  N.Y.  230. 
Chancellorsville,  Va.  408. 
Chapala  Lake,  Mex.  616. 
Chapel  Hill,  N.  C.  418. 
Chapultepec,  Mex.  621. 
Chari emont.  Mass.  173. 
Charleroi,  Pa.  299. 
Charles  City,  la.  363. 

— River  87.  98.  112. 
Charleston,  S.  C.  435. 

— , W.Va.  429. 
Charlestown,  Mass.  115. 
— , W.Va.  429. 

Charlotte,  K.  C.  418. 

— , N.Y.  344. 
Charlottesville,  Va.  380. 
417. 

Charlotte  Valley ,N.Y.209. 
Charm  Lake,  Fla.  457. 
Chateaugay,  Can.  186. 

— Lakes,  K.Y.  211. 
Chatham,  Mass.  120. 
r-,  N.Y.  68.  174. 


Chatham  Sound,  B.  C. 
600. 

Chatsworth  Park, Cal.  563. 
Chattanooga,  Tenn.  425. 
Chautauqua,  K.Y.  345. 

— Lake,  N.Y.  300.  345. 
Chazy  Lake,  N.Y.  211. 
Chef  Menteur,  La.  422. 
Chehalis,  Wash.  478. 
Chehaw,  Ala.  420. 

Chelan  Lake,  Wash.  469. 
Chelsea,  Mass.  116.  121. 
Cheney,  Wash.  476. 
Cheneyville,  La.  595. 
Cheraw,  S.  C.  445. 
Cherokee,  la.  495. 

Cherry  Mountain,  Me.  143. 

— Run,  W.Va.  307. 

— Valley,  N.Y.  201. 
Chesapeake  Bay,  Md.  306. 

308. 

Cheshire  Harbor,  Mass. 
172. 

Chester,  111.  406. 

-,  Mass.  172. 

— , Pa.  300. 

-,  S.C.  435.  428. 

— , Va.  416. 

— , Vt.  148. 

— Valley,  Pa.  287. 
Chesterton,  Ind.  334. 
Chestnut  Hill,  Pa.  275. 
Chetopa,  Kan.  507. 
Cheyenne,  Wyo.  497. 

— Canons,  Colo.  530. 

— Mt.,  Colo.  529. 

— Wells,  Colo.  513. 
Chicago,  111.  346. 

Armour  Mission  356. 
Art  Institute  350. 
Auditorium  350. 

Board  of  Trade  353. 
Churches  356. 

City  Hall  352. 

Criminal  Court  352. 
Dearborn  St.  353. 
Drainage  Canal  352. 
Drexel  Boul.  354. 
Federal  Building  353. 
Field  Columbian  Mu- 
seum 355. 

Fine  Art  Building  350. 
Grain  Elevators  357. 
Grand  Boul.  354. 
Historical  Society  356. 
Hull  House  356. 
Jackson  Eoul.  353. 

— Park  355. 

Lake  Park  350. 

— Shore  Drive  354. 

La  Salle  St.  352. 
Lincoln  Park  354. 
Logan'’s  Statue  350. 


Chicago : 

Medical  District  356. 
Michigan  Ave.  350.  354. 
Newberry  Library  356. 
Palatine  Ave.  354. 

Parks  354.  355. 

Post  Office  348. 

Public  Library  351. 
Pullmann  Car  Works 
357. 

Rookery  352. 

State  St.  353. 

Stockyards  357. 

Studebaker  Bldg.  350. 
Theatres  348. 

Union  Park  357. 

University  355. 

W addell  Lift  Bridge  350. 
Washington  Park  355. 
Water  Works  354. 

Chicago  Junction,  O.  330. 

— Lakes,  Colo.  515. 
Chichester,  N.Y.  207. 
Chickahominy  River  412. 

413. 

Chickamaugua,  Ga.  425. 
Chico,  Cal.  582. 

Chicopee,  Mass.  181. 
Chihuahua,  Mex.  613. 
ChildwoJd,  N.Y.  223. 

Chilkat,  or 
Chilkoot,  Alaska  605. 
Chillicothe,  111.  506. 

Mo.  509. 

— , O.  383.  423. 

Chilnooalna  Falls , Cal. 

576. 

Chim-sy-an,  B.  C.  600. 
Chinese,  Cal.  502.  574. 

Chino,  Cal.  586. 

Chinook,  Mont.  467. 
Chinquapin,  Cal.  576. 
Chij^ewa  Falls,  Wis. 

Chittenango,  N.Y.  234. 
Chloride,  Ariz.  524. 

Chocorua  Mt. , N.H.  155.  | 

Cholula,  Mex.  625. 
Christiansburg , Va.  423.  | 

Church's  F erry,  N.  D.  467. 
Cima,  Colo.  533. 

Cimarron,  Colo.  536. 
Cincinnati,  0.  384. 
Cincinnatus  Farms,  Fla. 

452. 

Cinnabar  Mt. , Mont.  482. 
Circleville,  O.  423. 

Cisco,  Tex.  596. 

-,  Utah  538. 

Citlatepetl,  Mex.  623 
Citra,  Fla.  458.  459. 
Citronelle,  Ala.  422. 

City  Point,  Fla.  451. 


INDEX 


633 


City  Point,  Va.  413. 
Ciudad  Juarez,  Mex.  613. 

— Porfirio  Diaz , Mex. 
612. 

Claiborne,  Miss.  422. 
Clarcona,  Fla.  457. 
Claremont,  N.H.  152. 

— , Va.  413. 

— Junction,  N.H.  183. 
Clarence  Strait,  Alaska 

602. 

Clarenceville,  Can.  151. 
Clarendon  Springs , Vt. 
149. 

Clarksburg,  W.Va.  383. 
Clarksville,  Ga.  419. 
Clarkville,  Mo.  405. 
Clatsop  Beach,  Ore.  586. 
Clay  Centre,  Kan.  512. 

— Mt.,  N.H.  171. 
Claymont,  Del.  300. 
Clayton,  Miss.  401. 

— , N.Y.  255. 

Clear  Creek,  Colo.  515. 

, Utah  536. 

Clear  Lake,  X.Y.  212. 223. 

District,  Cal.  552. 

Clearwater,  N.Y.  221. 
Cleburne,  Tex.  518. 
Clermont,  Fla.  457. 

-,  N.Y.  190. 

Cleveland,  O.  330. 

— , Tenn.  425. 

Clifton,  Ariz.  588. 

— , Mass.  121. 

— , K.Y.  67. 

— Forge,  Va.  381. 

— Springs,  K.Y.  238. 
Climax,  Colo.  516. 

Clinch  Mts.,  Term.  424. 
Clinton,  la.  493. 

-,  m.  376. 

— , Ky.  402. 

-,  S.  C.  428. 

— Mt.,  K.Y.  171. 
Cloudland,  K.C.  424. 
Cloud’s  Rest,  Cal.  581. 
Cloverdale,  Cal.  552. 
Clyde,  Colo.  531. 
Coahoma,  Miss.  401. 
Coahuila,  Mex.  610. 
Coalgate,  I.T.  507. 
Coalinga,  Cal.  565. 
Coatesville,  Pa.  287. 
Coatzacoalcos , Mex.  624. 
Cobleskill,  K.Y.  201.  242. 
Co  chituate  Lake,  Mass.  82. 
Cochran,  Ga.  426. 

— , Va.  427. 

Cocoa,  Fla.  451. 

Cocoanut  Grove,  Fla.  454. 
Coconimo  Butte,  Ariz.522. 
Cody,  Wyo.  481.  496. 


Coeur  d’Alene,  Idaho  474, 
475. 

Coeymans,  K.Y.  191. 
Cohasset,  Mass.  117. 
Cohoes,  K.Y.  183. 
Cohutta,  Ga.  426. 
Cokevilie,  Kev.  503. 

Cold  Spring,  K.Y.  78. 192. 
Colden  Lake,  K.Y.  219. 
Colebrook,  K.H.  145. 
Coleraine,  Que.  173. 
Coles,  Cal.  583. 

Colfax,  Cal.  501. 

— , la.  494. 

College  Corner,  0.  379. 

— Park,  Ga.  420. 
Collegiate  Peaks,  Colo. 

516.  534. 

Colma,  Cal.  556. 
Colorado  (state)  513. 

— City,  Colo.  522.  537. 

— Desert  536^587. 

— Grand  Canon , Ariz. 
522. 

Junction,  Colo.  515. 

— Mts.,  Tex.  592. 

— River  522.  524. 587. 592. 

— Springs,  Colo.  528. 
Colton,  Cal.  526.  586. 

•,  Utah  536. 

Columbia,  S.  C.  435.  445. 
— , Tenn.  400. 

— , District  of  310. 

Falls,  Mont.  468. 

— .Tunction,  Minn.  371. 

■ River  469. 478. 505. 584. 
586. 

Columbus,  Ga.  420. 

-,  Ky.  406.  511. 

, Mont.  472. 

, Keb.  497. 

— , O.  327. 

-,  Tex.  592. 

, Wis.  361. 

— Junction,  la.  508. 
Colvin  Mt.,  K.Y.  218. 
Comanche  Canon,  K.M. 

532. 

Comber,  Ont.  335. 
Commerce,  Mo.  408. 
Como,  Colo.  516. 

— , K.J.  277. 

— Lake,  Minn.  367. 
Compton,  Cal.  568. 
Conanicut,  R.I.  89.  93. 
Concepcion  del  Oro,  Mex. 

610. 

Conception,  Mo.  508. 
Concord,  31  ass.  146. 

K.H.  152 

Conejos  Mts.,  K.M.  533. 
Conemaugh,  Pa.  290. 

— Lake,  Pa.  290. 


Conewago,  Pa.  288. 
Coney  Island,  K.Y.  73. 
Congers,  K.Y.  194. 
Congress,  Ariz.  524. 
Connecticut  (state)  76. 

— Lakes,  Vt.  146. 

— River  79.  80.  83.  86. 
145.  181.  etc. 

— Valley,  K.  H.  144.  145. 
181. 

Connellsville,  Pa.  299. 
Connersville,  Ind.  379. 
Constable,  K.Y.  186. 
Constitution  Island,  K.Y. 
189. 

Continental  Divide,  Wyo. 
498. 

Contoocook,  K.H.  152. 
Contreras,  Mex.  622. 
Convent,  La.  407. 
Conway,  K.H.  144.  158. 
160. 

Junction,  3Ie.  126. 
Cook’s  Falls,  K.Y.  344. 
Coolidge,  Kan.  518. 

Coon  Rapids,  la.  491. 
Cooper,  W.Va.  423. 
Cooperstown , K.Y.  201. 
209. 

— , K.D.  471. 

Coos  Junction,  K.H.  145. 
Copake,  K.Y.  68. 

Coplay,  Pa.  282. 

Copley,  Cal.  582. 
Copperville,  K.H.  143. 
Copple  Crown  3It.,  K.H. 

Corcoran,  Cal.  525. 

— Mt.,  Cal.  500. 

Cordoba,  Mex.  624. 
Corinth,  Ala.  426. 

— , K.Y.  224. 

Corliss,  Wis.  358.^ 
Cornelia,  Ga.  419. 
Corning,  K.Y.  245.  247. 
Cornwall,  Cal.  564. 

— , Can.  256. 

— , K.Y.  195. 

— Bridge,  Ct.  174. 
Corona,  Cal.  526. 

-,  Colo.  496. 

Coronado  Beach,  Cal.  572. 
Corpus  Chris ti,  Tex.  591. 
Corry,  Pa.  286.  300.  345. 
Cortez  Mts.,  Kev.  499. 
Corvallis,  Ore.  584. 
Corydon,  Ind.  395. 
Coihocton,  0.  327. 

Coteau  Landing,  Que.  256. 

— Rapids,  Que.  256. 
Coteaux,  the,  K.D.  471. 
Cottage  City,  Mass.  129. 

— Farm,  Mass.  82. 


634 


INDEX. 


Cottonwood  Hot  Springs, 
Colo.  516. 

— Canons,  Utah  542. 
Coulee,  Wash.  476. 
Coulterville,  Cal.  574. 
Council  Bluffs,  la.  491. 

— Grove,  Kan.  510. 
Covina,  Cal.  586. 
Covington,  Ky.  387. 

— , Tenn.  401. 

-,  Va.  381. 

Cowpens,  S.C.  418. 
Craggy  Mt.,  N.C.  432. 
Craig  Pass,  Wyo.  4S7. 
Cranberry,  N.C.  424. 
Cranston,  R.I.  86. 

Crater  Lake,  Ore.  583. 
Crawford  House,  N.H. 
163.  145. 

— Notch,  N.H.  145.  161. 
Crazy  Mts.,  Mont.  473. 
Creede,  Colo.  532. 
Creedmoor,  N.Y.  22.  75. 
Crescent  City,  Fla.  455. 
Cresson,  Pa.  290. 

Crested  Butte,  Colo.  535. 
Crestline,  O.  326.  383. 
Creston,  la.  495. 
Crestview,  Fla.  461. 
Cripple  Creek,  Va.  424. 
--  — , Colo.  531.  538. 
Crocker's,  Cal.  581. 
Crookston,  N.D.  376.  467. 
Croom,  Fla.  459. 

Croton  Lake,  N.Y.  68. 192. 
Crow  Agency,  Mont.  496. 

— Nest,  N.Y.  189. 

Crown  Point,  Fla.  457. 

, Ind.  327. 

, N.Y.  184.  231. 

Crystal  City,  Fla.  459. 
, Mo.  406. 

Cuatro  Cieneges,  Mex.  612. 
Cuautla,  Mex.  622. 

Cuba,  Ala.  427. 

~,  N.Y.  344. 

Cucamonga,  Cal.  586. 
Cuchara,  Colo.  532. 
Cuernavaca,  Mex.  622. 
Cul-de-Sac,  Wash.  476. 
Cullman,  Ala.  400. 
Cullom’s,  O.  400. 
Culpeper,  Va.  417. 
Cumberland,  Md.  329. 

— , Me.  129. 

— Falls,  Ky.  398. 

— Gap,  Tenn.  425. 

— Island,  Ga.  442. 

— Mills,  Me.  144. 

— Mts.,  Ky.  398. 

— River  398.  399. 

— Valley,  Pa.  288. 
Cumbres,  N.M.  533. 


Cupertino,  Cal.  557. 
Curie’s  Neck,  Va.  413. 
Currecanti  Needle,  Colo. 
536. 

Currituck  Sound,  Va.  414. 
Custer,  Mont.  472. 
Cynthiana,  Ky.  397. 
Cypress  Gate,  Fla.  456. 

— Point,  Cal.  560. 

Dade  City,  Fla.  460. 
Dailey’s,  Mont.  482.  v 
Daleville,  Ark.  512. 
Dallas,  Tex.  595. 

— City,  111.  405.  506. 

— Divide,  Colo.  533. 
Dalles,  Ore.  505.  585. 

— of  the  Wisconsin  361. 
Dalton,  Mass.  172. 
Damariscotta,  Me.  133. 
Dana  Mt.,  Cal.  582. 
Danbury,  Ct.  80.  173. 
Danielson,  Ct.  88. 
Dannemora,  N.Y.  211. 
Dansville,  N.Y.  245. 
Danville,  Ky.  397. 

— Junct.,  Me.  139.  143. 
-,  Va.  418. 

Darien,  Ga.  445. 
Dartmouth  College  183. 
Dauphin  Gap,  Pa.  289. 
Davenport,  Fla.  456. 

-,  la.  494. 

— Centre,  N.Y.  209. 
Davidson  Mt.,  Nev.  500. 
Davis,  Cal.  502. 

— Junction,  111.  493. 
Dawson,  Can.  605.  607. 
Dawson's  Camp, Colo.  534. 
Dayton,  Idaho  499. 

-,  O.  383. 

-,  Ore.  586. 

— , Tenn.  398. 

Daytona,  Fla.  450. 
Dayton’s  Bluff,  Minn.  367. 
Deadwood,  S.  D.  495. 
Deal  Beach,  N.J.  276. 
Dearborn,  Mo.  509. 

De  Beque,  Colo.  533. 
Decatur,  Ala.  426. 

-,  111.  377  388.  508. 

— , Ind.  345. 

Deerfield,  Mass.  182.  178. 
Deer  Isle,  Me.  133.  134. 

— Lodge,  Mont.  473. 

— Park  Hotel,  Md.  329. 

Springs,  Cal.  500. 

Defiance,  O.  330.  388. 

— Mt.,  N.Y.  229.  230. 

De  Funiak  Springs,  Fla. 

461. 

De  Land,  Fla.  455,  456. 
Delano,  Cal.  565. 


Delanson,  N.Y.  201. 
Delaware  (state)  300. 

-,  O.  383. 

— Bay  281. 

— & Hudson  Canal  195. 

— Mts.  344. 

— River  245.  247.  300. 

— Valley  246. 

— Water  Gap,  Pa.  243. 
De  Leon  Springs,  Fla.  456. 
Delhi,  N.Y.  344. 

Delmar,  la.  491. 

-,  N.J.  277. 

Del  Monte,  Cal.  559. 

— Norte,  Colo.  532. 

— Rio,  Tex.  590, 

Delray,  Fla.  453. 

Delta,  Cal.  582. 

— , Colo.  536. 

Doming,  N.M.  588. 
Denison,  la,  493. 

— , Tex.  507. 

Denmark,  S.C.  445. 
Dennison,  O.  327. 
Denver,  CJolo.  519. 
Denville,  N.J.  243. 
Deposit,  N.Y.  246. 

De  Smet,  Mont.  474. 

Des  Moines,  la,  494. 

De  Soto,  Miss.  406. 
Detroit,  Mich.  335. 

— , Minn.  471. 

Devereux,  Mass.  121. 
Devil’s  Canon,  Cal.  562. 

— Lake,  Wis.  363. 

, N.D.  467. 

— River,  Tex.  589. 

— Thumb,  Alaska  603. 
Devon,  Pa.  287, 

Dexter,  Me.  131. 

— Lake,  Fla.  455. 

Diablo  Mt.,  Cal.  553.  564. 
Diamond  Peak,  Ore.  584. 
Dickerson,  Md.  327. 
Dickey,  Colo.  516. 
Dickinson,  N.D.  472. 
Dickinson’s  Landing, Can. 

256. 

Dillsboro,  N.C.  433. 
Dingman’s  Ferry,  Pa.  246. 
Dinsmore  Point,  N.Y.  190. 
Dinwiddie,  Va.  427. 
Disappointment  Mt.,  Cal. 

Discovery  Passage,  B.  C. 
599. 

Dismal  Swamp,  Va.  417. 
Disputanta,  Va.  417. 
Dixfield,  Me.  140. 

Dixon,  111.  494. 

Dixville  Notch,  N.  H.  145. 
Dobb’s  Ferry,  N.  Y.  188. 
191. 


INDEX. 


635 


Dodge  Centre,  Minn.  365. 

— City,  Kan.  518. 
Dodgeville,  111.  495. 
Dolores,  Colo.  533. 

— Hidalgo,  Mex.  610. 
Dome  Rock,  Colo.  516. 
Donaldson  Point,  Mo.  406. 
Donaldsonville,  La.  407. 
Donner  Lake,  Cal.  500. 
Dorchester,  Mass.  87. 
Dos  Rios,  illex.  612. 
Doswell,  Va.  408. 
Dotsero,  Colo.  535. 
Douglas  Island , Alaska 

604. 

Dover,  Ga.  442. 

— , Me.  131. 

-,  N.  H.  127. 

— Plains,  K.  Y.  68. 
Downington,  Pa.  287. 
Dragoon,  Ariz.  588. 
Drake,  111.  507. 

Drayton  Island,  Fla.  455. 
Drewry  Bluff,  Va.  412. 

413.  416. 

Drifton,  Fla.  460. 
Driftwood,  Pa.  285. 

Dry  Mount,  Me.  137. 
Duarte,  Cal.  586. 

Dublin,  Mass.  148. 
Dubuque,  la.  363.  405. 
Duffields,  Colo.  531. 
Duluth,  Minn.  370. 
Dumas,  Mo.  506. 

Dunbar,  La.  422. 
Duncannon,  Pa.  289. 
Dundas  Islands,  B.C.  600. 
Dunderberg  Mt. , K.  Y. 
189.  194. 

Dunedin,  Fla.  457. 
Dunkirk,  N.  Y.  330. 
Dunlay,  Tex.  590. 
Dunmore  Lake,  Vt.  149. 
Dunnellon,  Fla.  459. 
Dunn's  Creek,  Fla.  455. 
DunravenPass,  Wyo.  490. 
Dunsmuir,  Cal.  583. 
Dunwoodie,  N.  Y.  68. 
Dupont,  Ga.  444. 

Du  Quoin,  111.  402. 
Durand,  111.  340. 
Durango,  Colo.  533. 

— , Mex.  613. 

Durant,  Miss.  403. 
Durham,  N.  C.  418. 
Durisoe's,  Fla.  456. 
Durkee,  Ore.  504. 
Duston’s  Island,  N.  H. 
163. 

Dutch  Flat,  Cal.  501. 

— Gap  Canal  413. 
Dutchess  Junction,  N.  Y, 

189.  192. 


Duxbury,  Mass.  117. 
Dwight,  111.  376. 

Dyea,  Alaska  605. 
Dyersburg,  Tenn.  400. 
Dyersville,  la.  363.  364. 

Eads  Jetties,  La.  407. 
Eagle  Bay,  N.Y.  221. 

— Flight,  Tex.  596. 

— Lake,  Me.  137. 

— Mine,  Fla.  459. 

— Pass,  Tex.  590. 

— Peak,  Cal.  578.  581. 

— River  Canon,  Colo.  535. 
Eagles'  Mere,  Pa.  284. 
East  Alton,  111.  388. 
Eastatoia  Falls,  Ga.  419. 
East  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  239. 

— Dubuque,  111.  364. 405. 

— Gloucester,  Mass.  124. 
Eastham,  Mass.  120. 
Easthampton,  Mass.  182. 
— , N.  Y.  75. 

East  Lee,  Mass.  178. 

— Machias,  Me.  132. 
Eastman,  Ga.  426. 
Easton,  Pa.  247.  243. 

— , Wash.  476. 

East  Palatka,  Fla.  449. 
East  Point,  Ga.  442. 
Eastport,  Me.  142. 

— , N.  Y.  75.  . 

East  Portland,  Ore.  506. 
584. 

— Radford,  Va.  423. 

— River,  N.Y.  3.  29.  87. 

— Thompson,  Ct.  87. 
Eastwick’s,  Pa.  273. 
Eaton,  0.  379. 
Eatontown,  N.  J.  278. 279. 
Eau  Claire,  Wis.  363. 

— Gallie,  FD.  452. 
Echo,  Utah  498. 

— Canon,  Utah  498. 

— Lake,  N.H.  160.  167. 

— Mt.,  Cal.  570. 

Echota,  N.  Y.  242. 
Economy,  Pa.  300. 

Eden,  Fla.  452, 
Edgartown,  Mass.  119. 
Edgecumbe  Mt. , Alaska 

606. 

Edgefield,  Tenn.  399. 
Edgeley,  N.D.  471. 
Edgemere,  N.  Y.  74. 
Edgemont,  Neb.  495. 

— , Pa.  307. 

Edgerton,  Colo.  528. 
Edgewater,  N.J.  67.  68. 
Edgewood,  Cal.  583. 

— , Ct.  78 
— , 111.  402. 

— , N.Y.  207. 


Edwall,  Wash.  469. 
Effingham,  111.  388.  402. 
Egg  Harbor,  N.J.  280. 
Ejutla,  Mex.  626. 
Elberon,  N.J.  278. 
Elberton,  Ga.  428. 

El  Cajon  Valley,  Cal.  572. 
El  Castillo,  Mex.  616. 
Eldon,  la.  508. 

El  Dorado,  111.  402. 

, Mo.  510. 

Canon,  Ariz.  524. 

Electric  Peak,  Wyo.  493. 
Eleven  Mile  Station,  Cal. 
576. 

Elgin,  111.  493. 

Eliot  Glacier,  Ore.  505. 
Elizabeth,  N.  J.  257.  258. 

— Junction,  N.  J.  247. 
Elizabethport,  N.J.  258. 

276. 

Elizabethtown,  N.Y.  215, 
Pa.  288. 

Elk  Creek,  Colo.  515. 
Elkhart,  Ind.  333. 
Elkhorn,  Neb.  497. 

Elk  Lake,  N.Y.  217. 

— Mts.,  Colo.  535. 

— Park,  Colo.  533. 
Elkins  Park.  Pa.  231. 
Elko,  Nev.  499. 

Elk  River,  Minn.  375.  470. 
Ellaville,  Fla.  460. 
Ellensburg,  Wash.  476. 
Ellenville,  N.Y.  343. 
Kllicott  City,  Md.  307. 
Ellinwood,  Kan.  518. 
Ellis,  Kan.  512. 

— Island,  N.Y.  3.  87. 
Elliston,  Va.  423. 
Ellsworth,  Kan.  512. 

ElJfra,  N^*Y.  244.  247. 
Elmwood  Farm,  Me.  140. 
Elon  College,  N.  C.  418. 
El  Paso,  Tex.  589. 

del  Norte,  Mex.  589. 

de  Robles,  Cal.  560. 

Elrov,  Wis.  363. 

El  Salto,  Mex.  617. 
Elsinore,  Cal,  526. 

El  Toro,  Cal.  571. 

Ely,  Minn.  371. 

Elyria,  O.  333. 

Embudo,  N.  Mex.  532. 
Emigrant  Gap,  Cal,  501. 

— Peak,  Mont.  482. 
Emory  Grove,  Md.  307. 
Emporia,  Kan.  517. 
Emporium,  Pa,  285. 
Encarnacion,  Mex.  615. 
Encino,  Cal.  563. 

Engle,  N.  Mex.  520. 


636 


INDEX. 


Englewood,  111.  334.  345. 
— , N.J.  68. 

English  Lookout,  La.  422. 
Enon,  Pa.  326. 

Ensenada,  Cal.  572. 
Enterprise,  Fla.  541.  456. 
Ephrata,  Pa.  286. 
Equinox  Mt.,  Vt.  186. 
Erastina,  X.  Y.  67. 

Erie,  Pa.  330. 

— Canal  232. 

— Lake  240.  341. 

Errol’s  Dam,  X.  H.  43. 

146. 

Escalon,  Mex.  614. 
Escondido,  Cal.  571. 
Espanola,  X.  Mex.  532. 
Espanola,  Fla.  450. 
Esperanza,  Mex.  623. 
Esquimalt,  B.  C.  598. 
Essex,  Can.  335. 

-,  X.Y.  231. 

— Junction,  Vt.  154. 
Estabrook,  Colo.  516. 
Estes  Park,  Colo.  515. 
Estrella,  Ariz.  588. 
Etiwanda,  Cal.  526. 

Etna  Springs,  Cal.  553. 
Euba  Mills , X.  Y.  215. 

224. 

Eugene,  Ore.  584. 
Eureka,  Cal.  552. 

— , Fla.  456. 

— , Xev.  499. 

Eva,  Cal.  555. 

Evanston,  111.  358. 

Wyo.  498. 

Evansville,  Ind.  394. 

— , Wis.  362. 

Eveleth,  Minn.  371. 
Everett,  Ga.  445.  426. 

— , Wash.  469. 

— Mt.,  Mass.  175. 
Evergreen,  Ala.  421. 
Everts  Mt.,  Wyo.  482. 483. 
Excelsior  Springs , Mo. 

509. 

Exeter,  Cal.  564. 

— , X.H.  127. 

Fabyan  House,  X.H.  165. 
Fabyan’s,  X.H.  145. 
Fairbury,  Xeb.  496. 
Fairfax,  S.  C.  445. 
Fairfield,  Ct.  76. 

— Lake,  X.  C.  433. 
Fairhaven,  Ct.  83. 

— , Mass.  120. 

— , Wash.  470. 

Fairland,  Ind.  379. 
Fairmont,  Xeb.  496. 
Fail-mount,  W.Va.  329. 
Fair  Oaks,  Va.  412, 


Fairplay,  Colo.  516. 
Fairport,  X.Y.  242. 
Fairview,  Colo.  531. 

— , X.Y.  221. 
Fairweather  Mts.,  Alaska 
605. 

Fallbrook,  Cal.  571. 

Fall  River,  Mass.  93. 
Falls  View,  Ont.  334. 

— Village,  Ct.  174. 
Falmouth,  Mass.  118. 
Famoso,  Cal.  564.  565. 
Fargo,  Can.  335. 

X.D.  375.  471. 
Faribault,  Minn.  365. 
Farmingdale,  X.  J.  279. 
277. 

Farmington,  Me.  140. 

— , Utah  537. 

Far  Rockaway,  X.Y.  74. 
Fayetteville,  X.  C.  434. 
418. 

Felton,  Cal.  553. 
Fenwick,  Ct.  83. 

Fergus  Falls,  Minn.  375, 
470. 

Fergusson’s,  Va.  414. 
Fernandez,  Cal.  526. 
Fernandina,  Fla.  446. 
Fernando,  Cal.  566. 
Finlavson  Channel,  B.  C. 
600. 

Firehole  Eiver  484. 

Fire  Island,  X.Y.  2.  74. 
First  View,  Colo.  513. 
Fisher's  Island,  Ct.  84. 

— Point,  X.J.  280. 
Fishkill  Landing , X.  Y. 

80.  192. 

Fitchbui-g,  Mass.  148. 
Fitzhugh  Sound,  B.C.  599. 
Fitzwilliam,  X.H.  148. 
Flagstaff,  Ariz.  521. 
Fleischmann’s,  X.  Y.  209. 
Flomaton,  Ala.  421.  4^. 
Flor  de  Maria,  Mex.  611. 
Floral  Park,  X.  Y.  75. 
Florala,  Ala.  421. 
Florence,  Cal.  568. 

— , Colo.  534. 

— , Kan.  518. 

— , S.  C.  434. 

— , Tenn.  426. 

Florida  (state)  443.  444. 
— , Mo.  507. 

Florissant,  Colo.  538. 
Flovilla,  Ga.  426. 
Flowing  Well,  Cal.  587. 
Floyd  Mt.,  Ariz.  522. 
Flume,  X.H.  168. 
Flushing,  X.Y.  75.  88. 
Folkston,  Ga.  444. 

Fonda,  X.Y.  232. 


Fond  du  Lac,  Wis.  364. 
Ford  City,  Pa.  299. 
Fordham,  X.Y.  68.  76. 
Forest,  Ga.  442. 

— Lake,  Minn.  370. 
Forestport,  X.Y.  221. 
Forked  Lake,  X.Y.  222. 

— River,  X.J.  279. 
Fork’s  Creek,  Colo.  515. 
Forsyth,  Ga.  442. 

Fort  Abr.  Lincoln,  X.D. 
472. 

— Adams,  Miss.  406. 

— Ann,  X.Y.  184. 

— Assiniboine,  Mont. 
467. 

— Benton,  Mont.  467. 

— Brooke,  Fla.  456. 

— Buford,  X.D.  467. 

— Collins,  Colo.  515. 

— Crawford,  Colo.  534. 

— Custer,  Mont.  472. 

— Davis,  Tex.  589.  596. 

— Defiance,  X.Mex.  521. 

— Dearborn,  111.  349.  355. 

— Dodge,  la.  495. 

— Douglas,  Utah  542. 

— Edward,  X.Y.  184. 
, Ont.  341. 

— Erie,  Can.  242. 

— Fairfield,  Me.  132. 

— Gates,  Fla.  455. 

— George,  X.Y.  228. 

— Gratiot,  Mich.  341. 

— Hamilton,  X.Y.  3. 

— Hancock,  Tex.  589. 

— Harrison,  Va.  412.  413. 
Fortin,  Mex.  624. 

Fort  Jackson,  La.  407. 

— Kent,  Me.  132. 

— Keogh,  Mont.  472. 

— Lafayette,  X.Y.  3. 

— Lauderdale,  Fla.  453. 

— Lee,  X.J.  68. 

— Lewis,  Colo.  533. 

— Logan,  Colo.  516. 

— Bladison,  la,  506.  405. 

— McHenry,  Md.  306. 

— McPberson,  Ga.  442. 

— Mill,  S.C.  435. 

— Monroe,  Va.  416. 

— Montgomery,  X.Y.  194. 

— Myers,  Fla.  457. 

— Xiagara,  X.Y.  254. 

— Payne,  Ala.  426. 

— Pierce,  Fla.  452. 

— Pillow,  Tenn.  406. 

— Powhatan,  Va.  413. 

— Pulaski,  Ga.  442. 

— Riley,  Kan.  512. 

— St.  Philip,  La.  407. 

— Scott,  Kan.  510. 

— Sheridan,  111.  354.  358, 


INDEX. 


637 


Fort  Snelling,  Minn.  367. 
370. 

— Spring,  W.Va.  382. 

— Steele,  Wyo.  498. 

— Sumter,  S.C.  436. 

— Thomas,  Ky.  387. 

— Ticonderoga,  N.Y.  230. 

— Tompkins,  N.Y.  3. 

— Tongas,  Alaska  602. 

— Totten,  N.D.  467. 

— Wadsworth,  N.Y.  3. 67. 

— Wayne,  Ind.  326.  334. 
388. 

— William  Henry,  N.Y. 
228 

— Worth,  Tex.  595. 

— Wrangell,  Alaska  602. 

— Yellowstone,  Wyo.  482. 
Forty  Foot  Bluff,  Fla. 

456. 

Fostoria,  O.  334. 
Fountain  City,  Wis.  404. 

— Geyser,  Wyo.  485. 
Fox  Lake,  111.  864. 
Francisco,  Colo.  532. 
Franconia,  FT.H.  168. 

— Mts.,  N.H.  166. 

— Notch,  N.H.  167. 
Frankenstein  Cliff,  N.H. 

145. 

Frankford,  Pa.  258.  2^0. 
Franklin,  Cal.  526. 

— , Mass.  87. 

— , Me.  132. 

— , N.H.  153. 

— , N.Y.  344. 

“ Mt.,  N.H.  171. 
Franklinton,  N.C.  427. 
Franklinville,  N.Y.  285. 
Frankville,  Md.  329. 
Fredalha,  Cal.  569. 
Frederick,  Md.  327. 

— Sound,  Alaska  603. 
Fredericksburg,  Va.  408. 
Fredericton,  N.  B.  131. 
Freehold,  N.J.  277. 
Freeport,  111.  363.  495. 

— , N.Y.  75. 

Freeville,  N.Y.  236. 
Fremont,  Neb.  497. 
French  Broad  River,  N.C. 

433. 

Frenchman  Bay,  Me.  133. 
136. 

Fresnillo,  Mex.  614. 
Fresno,  Cal.  564. 
Frontenac,  Minn.  362. 404. 
— , Can.  255. 

Front  Royal,  Va.  429. 
Fryeburg,  Me.  144. 
Fulton,  Cal.  552. 

— , HI.  405.  509. 

Ky.  400.  402. 


Fulton  Chain,  N.Y.  221. 

— Junction,  111.  494. 

— Lakes,  N.Y.  221. 
Fundy,  Bay  of.  Can.  142. 

Gainesville,  Fla.  459. 

-,  Ga.  419. 

— , Tex.  518. 

Galata,  Mont.  468. 
Galena,  111.  363.  364.  495. 
Galesburg,  111.  494. 
Galilee,  N.  J.  277. 

Gallon,  O.  383.  387. 
Gallatin,  Mont.  473. 

— Mts.,  Wyo.  483. 
Gallego,  Mex.  613. 
Gallitzin,  Pa.  290. 
Gallup,  N.  Mex.  521. 
Galveston,  Tex.  593. 
Gananoque,  Ont.  255. 
Ganoga  Lake,  Pa.  283. 
Gap,  Pa.  287. 

Garcia,  Mex.  610. 

Garden  City,  Kan.  518. 
, N.  Y.  75. 

— of  the  Gods,  Colo.  530. 
Gardena,  Cal.  568. 
Gardiner,  Me.  130. 

— , Mont.  482. 

Gardiner’s  Island , N.  Y. 
75. 

Gardner,  Mass.  172. 
Garfield  Peak,  Colo.  533. 
Garland,  Colo.  532. 
Garnett,  S.C.  445. 

Garos,  Colo.  516. 
Garrison,  Mont.  474. 
Garrison’s,  N.Y.  192. 
Gaston,  S.  C.  445. 

Gate  of  the  Mts.,  Mont. 
468. 

Gaviota,  Cal.  561. 

Gay  Head,  Mass.  419. 
Gaylord,  Mich.  338. 
Gedney  Channel,  N.Y.  2. 
General  Grant  Nat.  Park, 
Cal.  525. 

Genesee  Falls,  N.Y.  238. 

— Junction,  N.Y.  242. 
Geneseo,  111.  493. 

— , Kan.  510. 

Geneva,  N.Y.  237. 

— Lake,  Wis.  356. 
George  Lake,  N.Y.  227. 

, Fla.  458. 

Georgetown,  Colo.  515. 
-,  D.  C.  324. 

Ky.  397. 

-,  S.C.  434. 

Georgeville,  Vt.  157. 
Georgia  (state)  449.  426. 
— , Gulf  of  598. 
Georgiana,  Ala.  420. 


Germantown,  N.Y.  190. 
-,  Pa.  275. 

Gethsemane,  Ky.  398. 

. Gettysburg,  Pa.  291. 
Geyser  Springs,  Cal.  552. 
Geyserville,  Cal.  552. 
Giant  of  the  Valley,  N.  Y. 
218. 

Gibbon  River,  Wyo.  484. 
, Gibson,  Cal.  582. 
Gifford,  S.C.  445. 
Giffords,  N.Y.  67. 

Gila  Bend,  Ariz.  588. 
Gilbertville,  Me.  140. 
Gillett,  Colo.  538. 
Gilman,  111.  376. 

Gilroy,  Cal.  558. 

Girard,  Pa.  300.  330. 

111.  377. 

Glacier  Bay,  Alaska  605. 

— Point,  Cal.  579. 

Glade  Spring,  Va.  424. 
Gladstone,  N.D.  472. 
Glasgow,  Ky.  393. 

— , Mo.  507. 

— , Mont.  467. 

Glen  Allen,  Va.  408. 
Glenbrook,  Nev.  500. 
Glen  Cove,  N.Y.  75. 
Glendale,  Mass.  174. 

-,  Ore.  584. 

Glendive,  Mont.  472. 
Glendora,  Cal.  527. 
Gleneida  Lake,  N.Y.  68. 
Glen  Ellen,  Cal.  552. 
Glen  Ellis  Falls,  N.  H. 
162. 

— Eyrie,  Colo.  530. 

— House,  N.  H.  162. 

— Island,  N.  Y.  88. 

— Lyn,  Va.  423. 

— Station,  N.  H.  145. 
Glenn’s  Ferry,  Idaho  504. 
Glen  Onoko,  Pa.  283. 

— Park,  Colo.  528. 
Glen’s  Falls,  N.Y.  184. 
Glen  Summit,  Pa.  283. 
Glen  wood,  Minn.  470. 

— Springs,  Colo.  538. 535. 
Glorieta  Pass,  N.  M.  519. 
Gloucester,  Mass.  134. 
Glyndon,  Minn.  471. 

Goat  Island,  R.  I.  89. 

, N.  Y.  251. 

Goble,  Wash.  478. 
Godfrey,  111.  377. 

Goffs,  Cal.  525. 

Gogebic  Range,  Wis.  372. 
Gold  Creek,  Mont.  474. 
Golden,  Colo.  514. 

— Gate,  Cal.  551. 
Golden’s  Bridge,  N.Y.  68. 
Goldsboro,  N.  C.  434. 418. 


638 


INDEX. 


Golf,  111.  358. 

Gonzalez,  Mex.  614. 

— June.,  Mex.  691. 

Good  Harbor  Beach,  Mass. 

124. 

Goodland,  Colo.  490. 
Gordon,  Ga.  442. 
Gordonsville,  Va.  380. 
Gore's,  Fla.  456. 
Gorham,  N.  H.  162.  143. 
Goshen,  Cal.  564. 

— , N.  Y.  245. 

— , Va.  381. 

Gothics,  N.Y.  218. 
Gouldsboro,  La.  462. 
Governor's  Island,N.  Y.  3. 
Grafton,  111.  405. 

-,  N.D.  376. 

-,  W.Va.  329. 
Grahamville,  Fla.  456. 
Grand  Avenue,  Mo.  506. 

— Bay,  Ala.  422. 

— Canon  Sta.,  Ariz.  522. 

— Crossing,  111.  334.  378. 
Grande  Ronde  Valley, 

Ore.  504. 

Grand  Forks,  N.D.  375. 
467. 

— Gorge,  N.Y.  209. 

— Haven,  Mich.  340. 

— Hotel  Station  Cats- 
kills, N.Y.  209. 

Island,  Neb.  497. 

— Isle,  Vt.  150. 

— Junction,  la.  493. 

— Lake,  La.  406. 

— — , Colo.  536.  538. 
, Me.  132. 

— Manan,  N.  B.  142. 

— Rapids,  Mich.  338. 

— River,  Colo.  535. 

— Tower,  111.  406. 
Grange  City,  Ore.  505. 
Granger,  Wyo.  498. 
Granite,  Colo.  516.  535. 

538. 

— Canon,  Colo.  538. 

, Wyo.  497. 

Grant  City,  N.  Y,  67. 
Grant's,  N.  Mex.  521. 

— , Ore.  505. 

— Pass,  Ore.  584. 
Gravina,  Alaska  602. 
Graymont,  Colo.  515. 
Gray's  Harbor,  Ore.  478. 

— Lake,  111.  364. 

— Peak,  Colo.  515. 

Great  Barrington,  Mass. 

175.  174. 

— Blue  Hill,  Mass.  86. 

— Falls,  Mont.  468. 

— - Salt  Lake,  Utah.  542. 

— SmokyMts.,  Tenn.425. 


Great  South  Bay,  N.  Y.  74. 

— Temple  Butte,  Utah 
543. 

Greeley,  Colo.  517. 
Greenbrier  White  Sul- 
giur  Springs,  W.  Va. 

Greencastle,  Ind.  387. 

-,  Pa.  288. 

Green  Cove  Springs,  Fla. 
454. 

Greendale,  N.Y.  193. 
Greenfield,  Mass.  172. 
Green  Lake,  Me.  132. 
Greenland,  Fla.  447. 

— , N.  H.  125. 

Green  Mt.,  Me.  136. 

Falls,  Colo.  537. 

Mts.,  Vt.  148.  153. 
Greenport,  N.  Y.  75. 
Green  River,  Utah  536. 

, Wash.  476. 

, Wyo.  498. 

Greensboro,  N.  C.  418. 
Greensburg,  Ind.  379. 

-,  Pa.  291. 

Green  Springs,  O.  334. 
Greenville,  Ala.  420. 

-,  Ct.  88. 

-,  Fla.  460. 

-,  111.  388. 

— , Mass.  147. 

— , Me.  131. 

— , Miss.  406. 

— , S.C.  418. 

— , Tenn.  424. 
Greenwich,  Ct.  76. 
Greenwood,  S.  C.  428. 

— , La.  595. 

— Lake,  N.Y.  245. 
Gregory,  Tex.  591. 
Grenada,  Miss.  402.  403. 
Grenville  Channel,  B.  C. 

600. 

Gretna,  Can.  375. 

— , La.  462. 

Greylock,  Mass.  180. 
Griffin,  Ga.  442. 

Grimsby  Park,  Ont.  339. 
Grinnell,  la.  494. 

Grosse  Pointe,  Mich. 

337 

Groton,  Ct.  83. 

— , Mass.  147. 

Grottoes,  Va.  430. 
Groveton,  N.  H.  143. 
Grub  Gulch,  Cal.  575. 
Guadalajara,  Mex.  616. 
Guadalupe,  Cal.  561. 

— , Mex.  614.  623. 

— Hidalgo,  Mex.  617. 
Guanajuato.  Mex.  615. 
Guaymas,  Mex.  588. 


Guerneville,  Cal.  552. 
Guilford,  Ct.  83. 

— CourtHouse  N.  C.418. 
Guinea,  Va.  408. 
Gulfport,  Miss.  422. 

Gulf  Summit,  N.  Y.  246. 
Gunnison,  Colo.  535. 
Gurdon,  Ark.  512. 
Guthrie,  Okla.  518. 
Guttenberg,  la.  404. 

-,  N.  J.  67. 

Guyandotte,  W.  Va.  382. 
Guyer  Hot  Springs,  Idaho 
504. 

Guyton,  Ga.  442. 
Gypsum  City,  Kan.  510. 

Hackberry,  Ariz.  524. 
Hackensack,  N.  J.  245. 
Hackettstown,  N.  J.  243. 
Haddonfield,  N.  J.  280. 
Hadley,  Mass.  182. 

-,  N.Y.  224. 

Hagerman  Pass,  Colo.  538. 
Hagerstown,  Md.  288. 328. 
Hagersville,  Ont.  335. 
Hague,  N.Y.  229. 
Haigler,  Neb.  496. 
Hailey,  Idaho  504. 
Haines'  Corners,N.Y.  208. 

— Falls,  N.  Y.  208. 
Halfway,  Colo.  516. 
Hallandale,  Fla.  453. 
Halleck,  Nev.  499. 

Halls,  Pa.  284. 

Halstead,  Kan.  518. 
Hamburg,  Mo.  405. 

— , S.  C.  439. 

Hamilton,  Can.  339. 

— , Mass.  134. 

— , Mont.  474. 

-,  O.  379. 

— Mt.,  Cal.  558. 
Hamilton’s  Crossing,  Va. 

408. 

Hamlet,  N.C.  428.  445. 
Hammond,  Ind.  339.  345. 
379. 

— , La.  403. 

-,  0.  345. 

Hammond's  Mills,  R.I.  84. 
Hammondville,  N.Y.  231. 
Hampton,  Fla.  459. 

N.  H.  125. 

-,  Va.  415. 

— Beach,  N.  H.  125. 

— Roads,  Va.  414. 
Hance's  Ranch,  Ariz.  523. 
Hancock,  N.  H.  152. 

— Point,  Me.  133. 
Hanford,  Cal.  525. 
Hanna,  Wyo.  498. 
Hannibal,  Mo.  508.  405. 


INDEX. 


639 


Hanover,  N.  H.  183. 

— , Pa.  288. 

— Junction,  Md.  307. 
Hardeeville,  S.C.  439. 440. 
Harlem,  Mo.  508. 

Haro,  Canal  De,  B.C.  598. 
Harold,  Cal.  565. 
Harper’s  Ferry,  W.  Va. 

328. 

Harriman,  Tenn.  398. 
Harrington,  Wash.  469. 
Harrisburg,  Can.  340. 

— , Ore.  ^4. 

-,  Pa.  288. 

— , Tex.  592. 

Harrison,  Me.  144. 

— , Idaho  474. 

Harrison’s  Landing,  Va. 
412.  413. 

Harriston,  Miss.  401. 
Harrisville,  N.  H.  152. 
Hartford,  Ct.  79. 

— , Me.  140. 

— , Wash.  470. 

Hartland,  Me.  130. 
Hartsel  Hot  Springs,  Colo. 
538. 

Harvard  Un.,  Mass.  112. 

— Junction,  111.  362. 

— Mt.,  Cal.  570. 

, Colo.  516. 

Harvey’s  Lake,  Pa.  283. 
Harwich,  Mass.  120. 
Harwood,  Tex.  592. 
Haskell  Pass,  Mont.  468. 
Hastings,  Fla.  449. 

— , Minn.  362.  404. 

— , Neb.  496. 

-,  N.  Y.  188.  191. 
Hatfield,  Mass.  182. 
Hauser  Junction,  Idaho 
475. 

Havana  454.  458. 

— Glen,  N.  Y.  237. 
Havasupai  Reserv.,  Ariz. 

523. 

Haverford,  Pa.  287. 
Haverhill,  Mass.  127. 
Haverstraw,  N.  Y.  188. 
192.  194. 

Havre,  Mont.  467. 

— de-Grace,  Md.  301. 
Hawk’s  Nest,  W.Va.  382. 
Hawleyville,  Ct.  80. 
Hawthorne,  Fla.  459. 
Hayden  Divide,  Colo.  537. 
Hayes  Mt.,  N.  H.  162. 
Haymond,  Tex.  589. 
Hays,  Kan.  512. 

Hayt’s  Corners,  N.Y.  284. 
Hazel  Green,  Cal.  574. 
Healdshurg,  Cal.  552. 
Heber,  Utah  537. 


HelderbergMts.jN.Y.  201. 
Helena,  Ark.  406. 

-,  Ga.  426. 

— , Mont.  473. 

Hell  Gate,  N.  Y.  66.  88. 

, Colo.  538. 

Hell’s  Half  Acre,  Fla.  456. 
Helper,  Utah  536. 

Hemet,  Cal.  526. 
Hempstead,  N.  Y.  75. 
Henderson,  N.  C.  427. 

— Lake,  N.  Y.  220. 
Hendersonville,  N.C.  433. 
Henniker,  N.  H.  152. 
Henning,  Tenn.  403. 
Hennings,  Tenn.  401. 
Henry  Lake,  Mont.  503. 
Herkimer,  N.  Y.  233. 
Hermanas,  Mex.  612. 
Hernando,  Miss.  403. 
Herndon,  Cal.  564. 

— , la.  491. 

Heron,  Mont.  475. 
Hesperia,  Cal,  526. 
Hetch-Hetchy,  Cal.  581. 
Hibbing,  Minn.  371. 
Hickman,  Ky.  406. 
Hickman’s,  Ark.  406. 
Hickory,  N.  C.  431. 

— Nut  Gap,  N.  C.  432. 
Hicksville,  Mass.  75. 
Higginsville,  Mo.  507. 
High  Bridge,  Colo.  533. 

, Ky.  397. 

Highgate  SpringsWt.  154. 
Highgrove,  Cal.  o26. 
Highland  Fla.  459. 

— , N.Y.  195. 

— Beach,  N.  J.  277. 

— Lake,  N.  H,  153. 

— Park,  111.  358. 

, Pa.  284. 

Highlands,  N.Y.  189. 192. 

S.  C.  419. 

High  Peak,  N.  Y.  206. 

— Point,  N.  J.  246. 

— Rock,  Pa.  307. 

— Tor,  N.  Y.  188.  194. 
Hillsdale,  Cal.  558. 

— , Mich.  333. 

Hill  Top,  Colo.  516. 
Hingham,  Mass.  117. 
Hinton,  Ky.  397. 

— , W.  Va.  382. 

Hipolito,  Mex.  614. 
Hixon,  Tenn.  398. 
Hobart,  N.  Y.  209. 
Hohgood,  N.  C.  418. 
Hoboken,  N.  J.  67. 
HofiTmann  Mt.,  Cal.  582. 
Ho|arth’s  Landing,  Fla. 

Hoisington,  Kan.  510. 


Hokendauqua,  Pa.  282. 
Holbrook,  Ariz.  521. 
Holdrege,  Neh.  496. 
Holliday,  Kan.  517. 
Hollins,  Md.  307. 
Hollister,  Cal.  559. 

Holly  Springs,  Miss.  403. 
Hollywood,  N.  J.  278. 
Holton,  Ind.  400. 

Holy  Cross  Mt.,  Colo. 
516.  535. 

Holyoke,  Mass.  181. 

— Mt.,  Mass.  182. 
Homestead,  Pa.  298. 
Homewood,  Va.  414. 
Homosassa,  Fla.  459. 
Hondo,  Mex.  612. 
Honeyville,  Utah  499. 
Hood  Mt.,  Ore.  505.  586. 

— River,  Ore.  505. 
Hoodoo  Land,  Wyo.  491. 
Hookset,  N.  H.  152. 
Hooper,  Utah  537. 
Hoosac  Mts.  172. 

— Tunnel,  Mass.  173. 180. 
Hoosic  River  175. 
Hoosick  Falls,  N.Y.  173. 

— Junction,  N.  Y.  1 3. 
Hoosier  Pass,  Colo.  531. 
Hopatcong,  N.  J.  213. 
Hope,  Ark.  512. 

— , Idaho  475. 

— Lake,  Cal.  562. 

Hopi  Villages,  Ariz.  521. 
Hopkins,  Minn.  363. 

— Peak,  N.  Y.  218. 
Hopland,  Cal.  552. 
Horace,  Kan.  510. 

Horn  Lake,  Miss.  402. 
Hornbrook,  Cal.  583. 
Hornellsville,  N.  Y.  247. 

344. 

Hornos,  Mex.  612. 

Horse  Plains,  Mont.  475. 
Horseshoe,  N.  Y.  223. 

— Curve,  Pa.  290. 

, Colo.  530. 

Hot  Springs,  Ark.  511. 

, Colo.  515. 

, Neb.  495. 

, Nev.  499. 

, N.  C.  433. 

, Va.  381. 

— — , Wash.  476. 
Houghton,  Mich.  372. 373. 
Houlton,  Me.  132. 
Housatonic,  Mass.  174. 

— River  172.  174.  175. 
Houston,  Tex.  592. 
Howard,  Cal.  652. 
Howbert,  Colo.  538. 
Howells,  N.  Y.  245. 
Huamanatla,  Mex.  623. 


640 


INDEX. 


Hudson-  N.  Y.  193.  191. 
O.  300. 

— Wis.  363. 

— City,  N.  J.  68. 

— River  187. 191. 224.  etc. 
Huehnetoca,  Mex.  611. 

617. 

Hugo,  Colo.  513. 
Huichapan,  Mex.  611. 
Hulett’s  Landing,  N.  Y 
229. 


Hull,  Mass.  115. 
Humboldt,  Nev.  499. 
Humphrey's  Peak,  Ariz. 
522. 

Hunter,  N.  Y.  207. 
Hunter’s  Hot  Springs, 
Mont.  473. 

Hunting  burg,  Ind.  394. 
Huntingdon,  Pa.  289. 
Huntington,  Mass.  172. 
-,  0.  345. 

— , Ore.  504. 

— , W.  Va.  382. 

Hunt’s  Mill,  R.  I.  86. 
Huntsville,  Ala.  426, 
Huron,  Minn.  375. 

— , Ore.  505. 

— Lake  341. 

— River  339. 

Husted,  Colo.  528. 
Hutchinson,  Kan.  513. 
Hyannis,  Mass.  120. 
Hyattsville,  Md.  303. 
Hyde  Park,  111.  339. 

, Mass.  86. 

, N.  Y.  193. 


Iberville,  Can.  151. 
leeboro,  Me.  130. 

Icy  Strait,  Alaska  605. 
Idaho  (state)  475.  503. 

— Springs,  Colo.  515. 
Idyllwild,  Cal.  526. 
Ignacio,  Colo.  533. 
Iguala,  Mex.  622. 

Ilion,  N.  Y.  233. 
Illilouette  Falls,  Cal.  581. 
Illinois  377. 

Imperial,  Cal.  587. 
Independence,  Mo.  510. 
Index,  Wash.  469. 
Indiana  (state)  333.  378. 

— Harbor,  Ind.  357. 
Indianapolis,  Ind.  378. 
Indian  Head,  N.  Y.  188. 

207. 

, Va.  308. 

— Hill  Farm,  Mass.  125. 

— Pass,  N.  Y.  220. 

— Reservations  467.  471. 
474.  476.  477.  521.  524. 


etc. 


Indian  River,  Fla.  451. 

— Springs,  Ga.  426. 

— Territory  518. 

Indio,  Cal.  587. 
Ingleside,  Miss.  401. 
Inglewood,  Cal.  568. 
Inspiration  Point,  Cal. 

576. 

, N.  Y.  205. 

, Wyo.  489. 

Intervale,  N.  H.  145.  150. 
lola,  Fla  456. 

Iowa  (state)  494.  363. 

— City,  la.  494. 

Ipswich,  Mass.  124. 
Irapuaiio,  Mex.  616. 

Irolo,  Mex.  622.  623.  625. 
Iron  Junction,  Minn  371. 

— Mt.,  Mo.  511. 

— River,  Wis.  371. 
[ronton.  Mo.  521. 

-,  O.  332.  423. 

Iroquois  Ravine,  N.Y.  220. 
Irvington,  N.Y.  188.  192. 
[shpeming,  Mich.  372. 
Island  Pond,  Vt.  144. 

Isle  au  Haut,  Me.  133. 

— La  Motte,  Vt.  150.  • 
Isles  of  Shoals,  N.  H.  125 
Islesboro,  Me.  134. 

Isles  of  Shoals,  N.  H.  125. 
Isleta,  N.M.  520. 

Islip,  N.Y.  75. 

Itasca  Lake,  Minn.  403. 
Ithaca,  N.Y.  236. 

— Falls,  N.Y.  236. 
luka.  Miss.  426. 

Ivanpah,  Cal.  525. 
Ixtacalco,  Mex.  621. 
Ixtaccihuatl,  Mex.  622. 

Jackson,  Mich.  339. 

— , Miss.  403. 

N.H.  161. 

-,  Pa.  287. 

— , Tenn.  403. 

— Mt.,  N.H.  164. 

— Hole,  Wyo.  488. 
Jacksonville,  Fla.  446. 

— , 111.  507.  508. 

Jaffrey,  Mass.  148. 
Jajalpa,  Mex.  612. 

Jalapa,  Mex.  626. 
Jamaica,  N.Y.  75. 

James  Peak,  Col.  515. 

— River  408.  413. 
Jamestown,  N.  D.  471. 

N.  Y.  344. 

— , R.  I.  93. 

— , Va.  413. 

Janesville,  Wis.  362. 
Jaral,  Mex.  612. 
Jefferson,  N.H.  168. 


Jefferson  City,  Mo.  510. 
~ Mt.,  N.H.  163.  171. 

, Ore.  586. 

, Pa.  283. 

Jeffersonville,  Ind.  3%. 
Jenkintown,  Pa.  259-  281. 
Jennings,  Mont.  463. 
Jensen,  Fla.  452. 

Jericho  Run  Canal  417 
Jerome,  Ariz.  524. 

Jersey  City,  N.  J.  67. 
Jesup,  Ga.  426. 

Jimenez,  Mex.  613. 
Jimulco,  Mex.  614. 
Jocko,  Mont  475. 
Johannesburg,  Cal.  525. 
John  Brown's  Farm,  N.Y. 
216. 

Johnson  City,  Tenn.  424. 
Johnson’s  Canon,  Ariz. 
024. 

Johnston,  Ga.  444. 
Johnstone  Strait,  B.  C. 
599. 

Johnstown,  N.Y.  232. 

— , Pa.  290. 

Joliet,  111.  376.  493  506. 
Jonesboro,  111.  402. 

Jones  Point,  N.Y.  194. 
Jonesport,  Me.  123.  132. 
134. 

Jordan  River,  Utah  537. 
Juanacatlan  Falls,  Mex. 
616. 

Juan  dc  Fuca  Strait,  B.  C. 
597. 

Juile,‘  Mex.  624. 
Julesburg,  Neb.  496.  497. 
Junction  City,  Ky.  397. 
— , Kan.  512. 

Juneau,  Alaska  604. 
Juniata  River  289. 
Jupiter  Inlet,  Fla.  452. 

Kaaterskill  Clove,  N.Y. 
204. 

— Falls,  N.Y.  206. 

— Hotel,  N.Y.  205. 

— Junction,  N.Y.  207. 

— Station,  N.Y.  208.  205. 
Kalama,  Wash.  478. 
Kalamazoo,  Mich.  339. 
Kalispell,  Mont.  468. 
Kamela,  Ore.  505. 
Kanawha  Falls,  W.  Va. 

382 

Kane,'  Pa.  286 
Kankakee,  111.  378. 
Kansas  City,  Kan.  507. 

, Mo.  507. 

Kasaan,  Alaska  602. 
Katahdin  Iron  Works  132. 
Kaysville,  Utah  537. 


INDEX. 


641 


Katama,  Mass.  119. 
Kearney,  Neb.  497. 

Mo.  508. 

Kearsarge  Mt.  ,N.  Conway. 
N.  H.  160.  161. 

, Potter  PL,  N.  H. 

153. 

Keating,  Pa.  285. 

Kebo  Mt.,  Me.  136. 
Keene,  N.  H.  148. 

— Valley,  N.  Y.  216.  215. 
Keeseville,  N.  Y,  214, 
Keitbsburg,  111.  405. 
Kelford,  N.  C.  418. 
Kendal  Green,  Mass.  146, 
Kenedy,  Tex.  591. 
Kennebunk,  Me.  127. 
KennebunkporL  Me.  127, 
Kenner,  La.  402. 
Kennerville,  La.  407, 
Kennet,  Cal.  582. 
Kenosha,  Colo.  516. 

— , Wis.  358. 

Kenova,  W.  Va.  3S2.  423, 
Kenoza  Lake,  Mass.  127. 
Kensico,  N.  Y.  68. 
Kensington,  111.  339. 
Kent,  Ct.  174. 

Kentucky  382.  395. 

— River  397. 

Keokuk,  la.  405. 

Kerr  Lake,  Fla.  455. 
Ketchikan,  Alaska  602. 
Ketchum,  Idaho  504. 
Keuka  Lake,  N.  Y.  233. 
Keweenaw,  Mich.  372. 
Keyport,  N.  J.  276. 
Keyser,  W.  Va.  329. 
Keystone,  Colo.  516. 
keysville,  Va.  434. 

Key  West,  Fla.  459. 
Kilbourn  City,  Wis.  361. 
Kilburn  Mt.,  Vt.  148. 
Killington  Peak,  Vt.  149, 
Killisnoo,  Alaska  603. 
Kimball,  0.  334. 
Kinderhook,  111.  508. 
Kineo  Mt.,  Me.  131. 
Kingfield,  Me.  140 
Kingman,  Ariz.  524. 

King  Ranch,  Tex.  591. 
Kingsburg,  Cal.  564. 
King’s  City,  Cal.  560. 
Kingsland,  Ga.  445. 

King’s  Mt.,  Ky.  397. 

, N.  C.  418. 

Kingston,  Can.  255. 

— , Mass.  117. 

N.  Y.  195.  190. 

— , Pa.  283. 

— , R.  I.  84. 

Kingsville,  Ont.  338. 
Kingville,  S.  C.  435. 


Kinsley,  Kan.  518. 
Kirksville,  Mo.  508. 
Kisco  Mt.,  N.Y.  68. 
Kissimmee,  Fla.  457. 

Kit  Carson,  Colo.  513. 
Kittaning  Pt.,  Pa.  290. 
Klamath  Hot  Springs,  Cal 
583. 

Klondike,  Can.  603.  605. 
Knobel,  Ark.  511. 
Knoxville,  Tenn.  424. 
Kooskia,  Wash.  476. 
Kootenai  Falls,  Idaho|46S, 
Kramer,  Cal.  525. 

Ktaadn  Mt.,  Me.  132. 
Kuttawa,  Ky.  400. 


Labadie,  Mo.  510. 

La  Bota,  Mex.  624. 
Lachine  Rapids,  Ore.  256, 
La  Cima,  Mex.  612.  622, 
Lackawaxen,  Pa.  246. 

La  Colorada,  Mex.  614. 
Laconia,  N.  H.  154. 
Lacoocbee,  Fla.  460. 

La  Crosse,  Wis.  362.  364 
404. 

— , Va.  427. 

La  Cruz  Mts.,  Mex.  612, 
Lafayette,  Ind.  378.  388, 
-,  La.  594. 

— Mt.,  N.H.  167. 

Lagos,  Mex.  615. 

La  Grande,  Ore.  505. 
Lagrange,  Ky.  398. 

Mo.  405. 

Beach,  Cal.  571. 
Laguna,  N.  M.  521. 

— de  Tache  Ranch,  Cal 
525. 

La  Jara,  Colo.  532. 

— Jolla  Cave,  Cal.  572. 

— Junta,  Colo.  519. 
Lake,  Ind.  339. 

Lake  Charles,  La.  594. 

— City,  Fla.  460. 

. Minn.  362.  404. 

— Forest,  111.  358. 

Fork  Canon,  Colo.  536. 
Helen,  Fla.  450. 

Lakehurst,  N.  J.  279. 
Lake  Junction,  Colo.  536. 
Lakeland,  Fla.  457.  ?459. 
Lake  Park,  Utah  476. 
Lakeport,  N.  H.  155. 
Lakeview,  Miss.  401. 
Lake  View,  Wash.  478. 
Lake  Villa,  111.  364. 
Lakewood,  N.  J.  279. 

— , N.  Y.  344. 

Lamanda,  Cal.  527. 
Lamar,  Colo.  518. 

La  Maure,  N.  D.  471. 


Baedekeb’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit. 


Lamont,  Miss.  401. 
Lampazos,  Mex.  609. 
Lamy  Junction  N.  M.  519. 
Lanark,  Fla.  461. 
Lancaster,  Cal.  565. 

-,  N.  H.  145. 

-,  N.  Y.  256. 

~,  Pa.  287. 

Land’s  End,  Mass.  124. 
Lane’s,  S.  C.  434. 
Lanesboro,  Mass.  179. 

— , Wyo.  284. 

Lanesville,  Mass.  124. 

— , N.  Y.  207. 

Langhorne,  Pa.  259. 
Langtry,  Tex.  589. 
Lansing,  la.  404. 

— , Mich.  338.  340. 
Lapeer,  Mich.  338. 

La  Porte,  Ind.  333. 
Lapwai,  Wash.  476. 
Lai'amie,  Wyo.  497. 
Larchmont,  N.  Y.  76. 
Laredo,  Tex.  592.  609. 

— Nuevo,  Mex.  609. 
Larkspur,  Colo.  528. 

La  Salle,  Colo.  517. 

111.  493. 

-,  Neb.  496. 

-,  N.Y.  247. 

Las  Cruces,  N.  M.  520. 

• Sedas,  Mex.  626. 

• Vegas,  N.  M.  519. 

— Hot  Springs,  N.  M. 
519. 

Lathrop,  Cal.  501.  564. 
Laton,  Cal.  525. 
Latourelle,  Ore.  506. 
Latrobe,  Pa.  291. 

Laurel  House,  N.  Y.  206. 
208. 

— Lake,  Mass.  179. 

Station,  N.  Y.  208. 

Laurette,  111.  376. 

La  Veta,  Colo.  532. 
Lawrence,  Kan.  512.  517. 
Mass.  127. 

. N.  Y.  150. 
Lawrenceburg,  Ind.  379. 
396.  400. 

Lawrence  Junction,  Pa. 
300. 

Lawrenceville,  Catskills, 
N.Y.  203. 

-,  Ga.  428. 

Lawson,  Mo.  509. 

Lawtey,  Fla.  479. 

Layton,  Utah  537. 
Leadville,  Colo.  538. 

— Junction,  Colo.  535. 
Leavenworth,  Ind.  395. 

— , Kan.  512.  517. 

— , Mo.  509. 

41 


642 


INDEX. 


Leavenworth,  Wash.  469. 
Leavittshurg,  0.  345. 
Lebanon,  Ky.  398. 

— , Mass.  179. 

— , Pa.  288. 

— Springs,  Mass.  179. 

Le  Claire,  la.  405. 

Le  Conte  Glacier,  Alas. 
603. 

Lee,  Mass.  178.  174. 
Leech  Lake,  Minn.  471. 
Leeds,  Me.  139. 

— , K.  D.  471. 

Leesburg,  Fla.  459. 

Lehi,  Utah  537.  542 
Lehigh  Water  Gap,  Pa. 
282. 

Lehighton,  Pa.  282. 
Leicester  Junction , Vt. 

149. 

Leipsic  Junction,  0.  334. 
Leitchfield,  Ky.  400. 
Leland,  Miss.  401. 

Lemon  City,  Fla.  453. 
Lennoxville,  Quo.  157. 
Lenoir,  N.  C.  431. 

Lenox,  Mass.  178.  174. 

— Dale,  Mass.  174. 

Leon,  Mex.  615. 

Lerdo,  Mex.  614. 

Lerma,  Rio  616. 
Lethbridge,  Can.  468. 
Lewiston.  Me.  139.  143. 
— , N.  Y.'254.  344. 

— , Wash.  476. 
Lewistown,  Pa.  239. 
Lexington,  Ky.  397. 

— , Ind.  400. 

— , Mass.  147. 

— , Mo.  506.  510. 

— , Neb.  497. 

— , Va.  381. 

— Junction,  Me.  143. 

, Mo.  508. 

Leyden,  N.Y.  173. 
Liberty,  N.Y.  344. 

— , Tex.  594. 

— , Island,  N.Y.  3. 

Lick  Mts.,  Va.  424. 

Lick  Observatory,  CaL 
558. 

Limestone,  Me.  132. 
Limon,  Colo.  496.  513. 
Linares,  Mex.  614. 
Lincoln.  Neb.  495. 

— , N.  H.  156. 

— Mt.,  Colo.  517. 
Lineville,  la.  508. 
Linwood,  Pa.  300. 
Lisbon,  N.  H.  156. 
Litchfield,  Ct.  173. 

— , 111.  376.  377.  388. 

-,  Wis.  374. 


Little  Falls,  Minn.  470. 
, N.  Y.  233.  242. 

— Harbor,  N.  H.  125. 

— Neck  Bay,  N.Y.  83. 

— Rock,  Ark.  511. 

— Rockies  (Mts.),  Mont. 
467. 

Littleton,  N.  H.  156. 
Little  Zion,  Utah  543. 
Live  Oak,  Fla.  460. 
Livermore,  Cal.  564. 

— Falls,  Me.  139. 
Livingston,  Mont.  473. 

482. 

— , N.Y.  67. 

Lizard  Head  Pass,  Colo. 
533. 

Llano  Estacado,  Tex.  596. 
Lloyd,  Fla.  460. 

Lock  Haven,  Pa,  285. 
Lockport,  111.  376. 

-,  N.  Y.  238. 

Lodi,  Cal.  501. 

Logan,  Mont.  473. 

— Mt.,  Alaska  607. 
Logansport,  Ind,  327.  388. 
Loma  Linda,  Cal.  569. 

— Prieta,  Cal.  556. 
Lomax,  Kan.  510. 
Lompoc,  Cal.  561. 
London,  Ont.  340. 

Long  Beach,  Cal.  568. 
, N.Y.  74. 

— Branch,  N.  J.  277.  276. 

— Island,  N.Y.  73. 

City,  N.Y.  73. 

Sound  73.  76.  88. 

— Lake,  N.Y.  223. 

, Me.  144. 

Longmeadow,  Mass.  80. 
Longmont,  Colo.  515. 
Longport,  N.  J.  280. 
Long  Sault  Rapids  256. 
Long's  Peak,  Colo.  515. 
Longview,  Tex.  595. 
Lonsdale,  R.  I.  86. 
Lookout  Mt.,  Tenn.  425. 
Loon  Lake,  N.  Y.  211.  224. 
Loro  in,  0.  334. 
Lordsburg,  N.  M.  588. 
Loretto,  Pa.  290. 

Loring,  Alaska  602. 

Los  Alamos,  Cal.  561. 

— Angeles,  Cal.  566. 

— Banos,  Cal.  564. 

— Gatos,  Cal.  555. 

— Olivos,  Cal.  581. 

— Pinos,  Colo.  534. 

— Reyes,  Mex.  625. 

Lost  Valley,  Cal.  582. 
Loudon,  Tenn.  425. 
Louisiana  (state)  422. 

— , Mo.  405. 


Louisville,  Ky.  395. 

- Landing,  N.  Y.  256. 
Lovejoy,  Ga.  442.' 
Loveland,  Colo.  515. 

— , O.  383. 

Lowe  Mt.,  Cal.  571. 

— Observatory,  Cal.  570. 
Lowell,  Mass.  151. 

— , W.Va.  382. 

Lower  Crossing,  Utah  536. 
Lowville,  N.  Y.  234. 
Lubec,  Me.  142. 

Ludlow,  Cal.  525. 5 


, V I,.  X'io. 

Lula,  Ga.  419. 

— , Miss.  401. 

Lund,  Utah  542. 

Lundy’s  Lane,  Mich.  252. 
Lunenburg,  Vt.  146.  156. 
Luray,  Va.  429. 

Luzerne,  N.  Y.  224. 

Lyell  Mt.,  Cal.  582. 
Lynchburg,  Va.  417. 
Lyndehurst,  N.  Y.  188. 
Lyndonville,  Vt.  156. 
Lynn,  Mass.  121. 

— Canal,  Alaska  604. 

— Junction,  Utah  542. 
Lyon  Mt.,  N.Y.  211. 
Lyons,  la.  405. 

— , Colo.  515. 

— , N.  Y.  242. 

— FaUs,  N.  Y.  234. 


Macclenny,  Fla.  460. 
Machen,  Ga.  442. 
Mackinac  Island,  Mich. 
338.  341. 

Mackinaw  City,  Mich.  338, 
Macon,  Ga.  442. 

— , Mo.  509. 

Madera,  Cal.  564. 
Madison,  Ga.  439. 

— , N.  H.  158. 

— . Wis.  362. 


- Mt.,  N.  H.  163.  171. 
Madrid,  la.  491. 
Madrone,  Cal.  558. 
Magnolia,  Fla.  454.  456. 
— , Mass.  124. 

Magog,  Vt.  157. 

Mahanoy  Junct.,  Pa  286. 
Mahkeenac  Lake,  Mass. 


177. 


Mahopac  Falls,  N.  Y.  68. 
— Lake,  N.  Y.  68. 

Maine  126. 

Malabar,  Fla.  452. 
Malintzi,  Mex.  623. 
Malone,  N.Y.  224. 150.186. 
Malta,  Colo.  535. 
Maltrata,  Mex.  624. 


INDEX, 


643 


Malvern,  Ark.  511. 
Mammoth  Cave,  Ky.  398. 

— Hot  Springs,  Wyo.  482. 
Manassa,  Colo.  532. 
Manassas,  Va.  417. 
Manatee,  Fla.  460. 
Manchester,  Ct.  86. 

— , la.  495. 

— , N.  H.  152. 

— , Va.  409.  434. 

— , Vt.  186. 

— hy-the-Sea,  Mass.  123. 
Mancos  Canon,  Colo.  533. 
Mandan,  N.  D.  473. 
Mandarin,  Fla.  454. 
Manhattan,  Kan.  512. 

— , N.  Y.  27. 

— Beach,  N.  Y.  74. 
Manilla,  la.  491. 
Manitou,  Colo.  530.  537. 

— Iron  Springs,  Colo.  537. 

— Park,  Colo.  537. 
Manlius,  K.  Y.  234. 
Manomet  Bluffs,  Mass. 

118. 

Manor,  N.  Y.  75. 
Mansfield,  Mass.  86. 

— , O.  326.  345. 

— Mt.,  Vt.  153. 
Mantoloking,  K.  J.  279. 
Manuelito,  Ariz.  521. 
Manunka  Chunk,  K.  J. 

243. 

Manzanillo,  Mex.  616. 
Maple  River  Junction,  la. 

Maplewood,  N.  H.  168. 
Maquam,  Vt.  156. 
Maranacook  Lake,  Me. 
139. 

Maravatio,  Mex.  611. 
Marblehead,  Mass.  121. 
Marceline,  Mo.  503. 
Marcia  Lake,  Pa.  246, 
Marcy  Mt.,l^.Y.  219.  220. 
Mare  Island,  Cal.  551. 
Marfa,  Tex.  589. 

Marfil,  Mex.  615. 
Marianna,  Fla.  461. 
Maricopa,  Ariz.  588. 
Marion,  Ind.  237. 345. 383. 
-,  la.  491. 

— , Mass.  120. 

— , 0.  387. 

— , Va.  424. 

Mariposa  Grove,  Cal.  576. 
Mariscala,  Mex.  616. 
Mark  West,  Cal.  552. 
Marques,  Mex.  617. 
Marquette,  Kan.  510. 

— , Mich.  372. 

Marshall,  Mich.  339. 

— , Tex.  595. 


Marshall  Junction,  Wash. 
476. 

— Pass,  Colo.  534.  535. 
Marshall’s  Creek,  Pa.  246. 
Marshalltown,  la.  508. 
Marshfield,  Mass.  117. 

— , N.  H.  170. 

Vt.  156. 

Martha’s  Vineyard,  Mass. 
118. 

Martinez,  Cal.  553.  564. 
Martinsburg,  W.  Va.  288. 
328. 

Maryland  288.  301. 

— Heights,  W.Va.l328. 
Marysvale,  Utah  537. 
Marysville,  Cal.  582. 
Maryville,  Tenn.  424. 
Mascoma  Lake,  K.  H.  153. 
Mascotte,  Fla.  457. 

Mason  City,  Minn.  365. 
, 111.  507. 

— & Dixon’s  Line  288. 
291.  301. 

Massabesec  Lake,  N.  H. 
152. 

Massachusetts  (state)  80. 

— Bay  98.  116. 
Massapequa,  H.  Y.  75. 
Massapoog  Lake,  Mass.  86. 
Massawepie  Lake,  N.  Y. 

223. 

Massawippi,  Que.  157. 
Massena  Springs,  FT.  Y. 
256. 

Mast  Hope,  Pa.  246. 
Matamoros,  Mex.  613. 
Matanzas,  Fla.  449. 
Matawan,  K.  J.  276. 
Matehuala,  Mex.  610. 
Mathias  Point,  Va.  308. 
Mattapoisett,  Mass.  120. 
Mattawamkeag,  Me.  131. 
Mattoon,  111.  383.  402. 
Mauch  Chunk,  Pa.  282. 
Max  Meadows,  Va.  424. 
Mayfair,  111.  358. 
Mayport,  Fla.  446. 
Maysville,  Ky.  382. 
Mayville,  Pa.  300. 
MacAdam,  N.  B.  131. 
McBee,  S.  C.  445. 
McCammon,  Idaho  499. 
McCarty,  N.  M.  521. 
McCloud,  Cal.  583. 

Mts.,  Cal.  582. 

McComb,  0.  834. 

City,  Miss.  403. 

McCook,  Neb.  496. 
McDonald  Lake,  Mont. 
468. 

, Tex.  592. 

McGee’s,  Colo.  516. 


McGregor,  la.  404. 

— , Tex.  518. 

— Mt.,  N.  Y.  227. 
McHenry,  N.  D.  471. 
McIntyre  Mt.,  N.  Y.  220. 
McKeesport,  Pa.  329. 
McKeever,  N.  Y.  221. 
McKenney,  Va.  427. 
McKinley  Mt.,  Alas.  607, 
Meacham,  Ore.  505. 
Meadows,  Me.  143. 
Meadowville,  Va.  413. 
Meadville,  Pa.  345. 

Mears  Junction,  Colo.  535. 
Mechanic  Falls,  Me.  140. 

143. 

Mechanicsville,  Va.  412. 
Mechanicville,  N.  Y.  173. 
184. 

Medford,  Mass.  151. 

— , Ore.  583. 

Media,  Pa.  275. 

Medical  Lake,  Wash.  476. 
Medora,  N.  D.  472. 
Meeker,  Wash.  477. 
Megantic  Lake,  Me.  132. 
Melbourne,  Fla.  452. 
Meldrim,  Ga.  442. 
Melrose,  Mass.  126. 
Memaloose  Island,  Ore. 
505. 

Memphis,  Tenn.  401.  403. 

— Junction,  Ky.  399. 
Memphremagog  Lake,  Vt. 

157. 

Menauhant,  Mass.  118. 
Mendota,  Cal.  564. 

— , 111.  494. 

~ Lake,  Wis.  362. 
Menlo  Park,  Cal.  556. 

, N.  J.  257. 

Menominee  Mts.,  Mich. 
372. 

Menomonie,  Wis.  363. 
Mentone,  Cal.  569. 
Mentor,  0.  330. 

Merced,  Cal.  525.  564. 

— River  576.  578. 
Meredith,  N.  H.  155. 
Meriden,  Ct.  78. 
Meridian,  Miss.  427. 
Merriam,  Minn.  363. 
Merrill’s,  N.  Y.  211. 
Merrimac  River  125.  127, 

151  etc 

Merritt’s  Island,  Fla.  452. 
Merritton,  Ont.  339. 

Mesa  Encantada,  N.  M. 
521. 

Messabi  Mts.,  Minn.  371. 
Metlac  Ravine,  Mex.  624. 
Metlakatla,  Br.  Col.  602. 
Mexico  608. 

4i* 


644 


INDEX. 


Mexiko,  Mo.  507. 

— , City  of,  Mex.  617. 

— , Guif  of  407.  461.  624. 
Miami,  Fla.  453. 

Mica  Mt.,  Me.  143. 
Micaaopy  June.,  Fla.  458. 
MicFigamme,  Mich.  372. 
Michigan  (state)  333. 

— City,  Tnd.  339. 

— Lake  342.  358. 
Middlehoro,  Mass.  120. 
Middlebury,  Vt.  149. 

— , N.Y.  201. 

Middle  Park,  Colo.  515. 
Middlesboro,  Ky.  425. 
Middlesex,  Vt.  153. 

— Fells,  Mass.  126.  151. 
Middletown,  Ct.  78. 

N.  Y.  245.  343. 

Pa.  288. 

Midville,  Ga.  442. 

Jlifflin,  Pa.  289. 

Milano,  Tex.  518. 

Miles  City,  Mont.  472. 

— Pond,  Vt.  146. 
Milford,  N.  Y.  246. 

— , Utah  542. 

Millbank  Sound,  B.  C.  600. 
Millboro,  Va.  381. 
MUlbrse,  Cal.  556. 
Millbrook,  N.  V.  192. 
Millbury,  0.  333. 

Millen,  Ga.  442. 

Miller’s  Falls,  Mass.  84. 

174. 

Millerstown,  Pa.  289. 
Millerton,  N.  Y.  68.  192. 
Millington,  Tenn.  403. 
Millinocket,  Me.  132. 
Milltown,  Ind.  394. 

Mill  Valley,  Cal.  551. 
Millwood,  Cal.  564. 

— , Colo.  533. 

Milo  Junction,  Me.  131. 
Milton,  Cal.  501. 

-,  Fla.  461. 

— , N.  H.  157. 

— Hills,  Mass.  86. 
Milwaukee,  Wis.  359. 
Minaca,  Mex.  613. 
Mineola,  N.  Y.  75. 

-,  Tex.  595. 

Mineral  Pt.,  3Io.  510. 

290 

Mineville*  N.  Y.  231. 
Minneapolis,  Minn.  367.' 
Minnehaha  Falls,  Minn. 

369. 

Minnesota  362.  367. 
Minnetonka  Lake,  Minn. 

370. 

Minnewaska  Lake,  N.  Y. 
196. 


Minnewaukan,  N.  D.  471 
Minoa,  N.Y.  234. 
Minooka,  Pa.  284. 

Minot,  N.  D.  467. 

Minot’s  Ledge,  Mass.  117. 
Minsi  Mt.,  Pa.  244. 
Minturn,  Colo.  535. 

-,  Neb.  495. 

Miramar,  Cal.  571. 
Mirror  Lake,  Cal.  581. 
Miser,  Wyo.  497. 
Mississippi  (state)  422. 

— River  403.  364.  377. 
462.  508.  etc. 

— City,  Miss.  422. 
Missoula,  Mont.  474. 
Missouri  (state)  405. 

— River  403.  405.  471. 
473.  etc. 

— Valley,  la.  493. 
Mitchell  Mt.,  N.  C.  432. 
Mitchellville,  Tenn.  399. 
Mitla,  Mex.  626. 

Moat  Mt.,  N.  H.  161. 
Moberly,  Mo.  508. 
Mobile,  Ala.  421. 

Mobjak  Bay,  Va.  416. 
Moctezuma,  Mex.  613. 
Modena,  Utah  542. 
Modesto,  Cal.  564. 
Modjeska,  Cal.  571. 
MofFatt,  Tenn.  403. 
Mohawk,  N.  Y.  242. 

— Lake,  Mass.  178. 

— Valley,  N.  Y.  232. 
Mohegan,  Ct.  88. 

— Lake,  N.  Y.  il92.  221. 
Mohonk  Lake,  N.  Y.  196. 
Moingona,  la.  493. 

Moira,  N.  Y.  224.  234. 
Mojave,  Cal.  525.  565. 
Moki  Villages,  Ariz.  521. 
Mokoma  Lake,  Pa.  284. 
Moline,  111.  509. 

Molino  del  Rey,  Mex.  621. 
Momauguin,  Ct.  78. 

Mona,  la.  363. 

Monadnock  Mt.,  N.  H.  148. 
Monarch,  Colo.  535. 
Monclova,  Mex.  612. 
Moncure,  N.  C.  428. 
Monida,  Mont.  503. 
Monmouth  Junction,  N.  J. 

257. 

— Beach,  N.  J.  277. 

Mono  Lake,  Cal.  582. 
Monon,  Ind.  379. 
Monongahela  River  296. 

299.  329.  383.  etc. 

— City,  Pa.  299. 

Monroe,  Fla.  456. 

— , N.  Y.  245. 

-,  Mich.  333. 


. Monroe  Lake,  Fla.  455. 

— Mt.,  N.  H.  171. 
Monrovia,  Cal.  527.  569. 
Montague,  Cal.  583. 
Montalvo,  Cal.  563. 
Montana  467.  472. 
Montauk,  N.  Y.  75. 
Montecito,  Cal.  562. 
Monte  Cristo,  Wash.  479. 
Monteith,  Ga.  439. 
Monterey,  Cal.  559. 

-,  Mex.  609. 

-,  O.  345. 

— Springs,  Md.  307. 
Montesano,  Mo.  394. 
Monte  Vista,  Colo.  532. 
Montgomery,  Ala.  419. 
-,  Va.  423. 

Monticello,  Fla.  460. 

— , Ind.  379. 

— , Minn.  375. 

— , N.  Y.  246. 

-,  Va.  380. 

Montpelier,  Idaho  503. 

— , Mich.  343. 

-,  Vt.  153. 

Montreal,  Can.  144.  151. 
185.  256. 

Montreat,  N.  C.  431. 
Montrose,  Colo.  536. 

— , la.  405. 

Monument  Beach,  Mass. 
118. 

— Mt.,  Mass.  177. 

— Park,  Colo.  531. 
Mooers  June.,  N.  Y.  150. 
Moon  Lake,  Miss.  401. 
Moor,  Nev.  499. 
Moorhead,  Minn.  375. 471. 
MooseheadLake,  Me.  131. 
Mooselucmaguntic  Lake, 

Me.  141. 

Moosilaukee  Mt.,  N.  H. 
156. 

Morehead,  N.  C.  418. 
Morelia,  Mex.  611. 
Morgan  City,  La.  594. 
Morganton,  N.  C.  431. 
Moriah  Mt.,  N.  H.  163. 
Moriches,  N.  Y.  75. 
Morley,  Cal.  582. 

— , Colo.  519. 

Morris,  Minn.  470. 
Morrisburg,  Ont.  256. 
Morris  Cove,  Ct.  78. 
Morristown,  N.  J.  243. 

— , N.  Y.  234. 

-,  Tenn.  424.  433. 
Morrisville,  Pa.  258. 
Mortimer,  Colo.  532. 
Morton,  N.  Y.  344. 

Mosier,  Ore.  605. 

Mossbrse  Falls,  Cal.  583. 


INDEX. 


645 


Mott,  Cal.  583. 

Mounds,  111.  402. 
Moundsville,  W.  Va.  329. 
Mountain  Dale,  K.  Y.  344. 
Mountain  PIo.  Station, 
N.  Y.  203. 

— Iron,  Minn.  371. 

— Lake  Park,  Md.  329. 

— View,  X.Y.  224. 

, Cal.  557. 

Mount  Airy,  Ga.  419. 

— Carmel,  111.  394. 

— Clemens,  Mich.  338. 

— Desert,  Me.  134. 

— Holly  Springs,  Pa.  288. 

— Hope,  N.  Y.  68. 

, Md.  307. 

, R.  I.  86. 

Bay,  R.  I.  93. 

— Kisco,  N.  Y.  68. 

— Olive,  111.  376. 

— Pleasant,  la.  494. 

, X H.  171. 

, N.  Y.  207. 

House,  N.  H.  165. 

— Pulaski,  111.  376. 

— St.  Vincent,  N.Y.  188. 

— Union,  Pa.  289. 

— Vernon,  111.  394. 

, Va.  325. 

— Wilson,  Md.  307. 
Mouse  Island,  Me.  133. 
Muir,  Cal.  526. 

— Glacier,  Alaska  605. 
Mullan’s  Pass,  Mont.  474. 
Mulvane,  Kan.  518. 
Munhall,  Pa.  298. 
Munising,  Mich.  372. 
Munyon's  Island,  Fla.  452. 
Murphy,  H.  C.  433. 
Murphy’s  Camp,  Cal.  501. 
Murray  Isle,  X.  Y.  255. 
Murrysville,  Pa.  236. 
Muscatine,  la.  405.  508. 
Music  Peak,  Colo.  535. 
Muskogee,  I.  T.  507. 
Myrtle  Creek,  Ore.  584. 
Mystic  River  116.  121. 

— Lakes,  Mass.  151. 

Nahant,  Mass.  121. 

Nampa,  Idaho  504. 
Nanaimo,  Vancouver  598. 
Nantasket  Beach,  Mass. 
115.  117. 

Nanticoke,  Pa.  283. 
Nantucket,  Mass.  199. 
Napa,  Cai.  552. 

Naples,  Cal.  561. 

— , 111.  453. 

— , Me.  144. 

Napoleon,  0.  388. 
Narragansett  Bay,  R.  1. 84. 


Narragansett  Fort,  R.  I. 
84. 

— Pier,  R.  I.  84.  89. 
Narrowsburg,  N.  Y.  246. 
Nashua,  Mont.  467. 

-,  N.  H.  151. 

— River  148. 

Nashville,  Tenn.  399. 
Nassau,  Bah.  Isl.  454. 
Natchez,  Miss.  406. 
Nathrop,  Colo.  535. 
Natick,  Mass.  82. 
National  City,  Cal.  573. 

— Sequoia  Park,  Cal.  525. 
Natural  Bridge,  Va.  430. 
, Ariz.  522. 

, Ky.  398. 

Naucalpan,  Mex.  612. 
Naugatuck,  W.  Va.  423. 
Nauvoo,  111.  405. 

Nava,  Mex.  612. 

Navajo  Springs,  Ariz.  521. 
Navesink  Highlands  2. 
277. 

Navy  Yard,  D.  C.  308.  323. 
Neho  Mt.,  Utah  537. 
Nebraska  (state)  494. 

— City,  Neb.  495. 

Neche,  N.  D.  375. 

Needles,  Cal.  524. 
Neelyville,  Mo.  511. 
Neenah,  Wis.  364. 
Negaunee,  Mich.  372. 
Nehasane Park,  N.Y.  223. 
Neihart,  Mont.  468. 

Neola,  la.  491.  494. 

Nephi,  Utah  542. 

Nesbitt,  Miss.  402. 
Nestoria,  Mich.  3t2. 
Netcong,  N.  J.  243. 
Neu-Braunfels,  Tex.  592. 
Neuse,  N.  C.  427. 

Nevada  (state)  499. 

— Fall,  Cal.  580. 

Nevado  de  Toluca,  Mex. 

611. 

Neversink  Mt.,  Pa.  286. 
New  Albany,  Ind.  375. 
Newark,  Cal.  555. 

— , Del.  301. 

N.  J.  257. 

-,  0.  327.  330. 

New  Bedford,  Mass.  120. 

— Berlin  Junction,  N.  Y. 

344.  ’ 

— Bern,  N.  C.  418. 

— Boston,  111.  405. 

, N.H.  152. 

— Brighton,  N.  Y.  67. 

— Britain,  Ct.  80. 

— Brunswick,  Can.  131. 

N.  J.  257. 

— Buffalo,’  Mich.  339. 


Newburg,  W.  Va.  329. 
Newburgh,  N.  Y.  195. 
Newbury  port,  Mass.  124. 
127. 

Newcastle,  Cal.  501. 

Colo.  538. 

— , Me.  133. 

N.  H.  125. 

New  Egypt,  Pa.  246. 

— England  76. 

Newfield,  N..T.  280.  281. 
Newfound  Lake,  N.H. 

153. 

Newfoundland,  Banks  of 

2.  6. 

Newhall,  Cal.  566. 

New  Hampshire  125. 127. 

— Haven,  Ct.  77. 

Junction,  Vt.  149. 

— Jersey  67. 

Newington,  Ct.  78. 

— , Kan.  510. 

Newkirk,  Okla.  518. 

New  Lenox,  Mass.  174. 

— London,  Ct.  83.  8^ 

— Madrid,  Mo.  406. 

— Mexico  533.  588. 

— Milford,  Ct.  174. 
Newnan,  Ga.  420. 

New  Orleans,  La.  461. 

— Paltz,  N.  Y.  195. 
Newport,  Ark.  511. 

— , Ky.  382.  387.  398. 

Me.  131. 

— , Ore.  586. 

— , R.  I.  89. 

— , Vt.  157. 

— , Wash.  468. 

— Beach,  Cal.  571. 

— Mt.,  Me.  136. 

— News,  Va.  414. 

New  Richmond,  Wis.  364, 

— River,  W.Va.  382. 

— Rochelle,  N.  Y.  76. 

— Smyrna,  Fla.  450. 
Newton,  Kan.  518. 

— , Mass.  82. 

— , N.  C.  431. 

-,  N.  H.  127. 

New  Washington  324. 

— Westminster,B.  C.  470. 

— Whatcom,  Wash.  470. 

— York  (state)  186. 

New  York,  N.Y.  7. 

Academy  of  Design  51. 

— of  Medicine  44. 

— of  Music  39. 

Aldrich  Court  32. 

All  Souls  Unit.  Ch.  47. 
American  Institute 
22.  74. 

Amsterdam  Avenue  51. 
— , Fort  31. 


646 


INDEX. 


New  York : 

Amusement,  Places  of 
19. 

Appellate  Court  House 

40. 

Aquarium  30. 
Arckbiskop’s  House  49. 
Armouries  47.  48. 
Army  Building  31. 
Arrival  7. 

Arsenal  50.  52. 
Ascension,  Ch.  of  42. 
Assay  Office  32. 

Astor  Library  38. 

— Place  38. 

Atkletics  21. 
Automobile  Clubs  21. 
Bankers  23. 

Bars  12. 

Barge  Office  31. 
Barnard  College  62. 
Batks  23. 

Battery,  tke  30. 

Baxter  Street  36. 
Beaver  Building  32. 
Bedloe’s  Island  3. 
Bellevue  Hospital  50. 
Bible  House  38. 
Blackwell’s  Island 
Bridge  37. 

Bleecker  Street  38. 
Blind  Institution  51. 
Boarding  Houses  10. 
Booksellers  23. 

Books  of  Reference  25. 
Botanical  Gardens  66. 
Boulevard  42. 

Bowery  36. 

Bowling  Green  31. 

Building  32. 

British  Consulate  26. 
Broad  Street  33. 
Broadway  31. 

— Congr.  Tabernacle 

41. 

— Maiden-Lane  Build- 
ing 34. 

Bronx,  tke  27.  65. 

Park  65. 

Brooklyn  Bridge  36. 13. 
— Railway  13. 

Bryant  Park  50. 
Calvary  Ckurck  47. 
Canal  Street  38. 
Carnegie  Music  Hall  50. 
Carnegie’s  House  46. 
Carriages  16. 

Castle  Garden  30. 
Cathedral  (Epis.)  61. 

— (R.  C.)  44. 

Central  Park  51. 

West  50. 

Century  Club  44.  22. 


New  York; 

Chamber  of  Commerce 

33. 

Chemical  Nat.  Bank  38. 
Children’s  Aid  Soc.  36. 
Chinatown  36. 

Church  Mission  House 
47. 

Churches  24. 

City  Hall  34. 

--  P3,rk  34 

City  of  New  York  Col- 
lege 64. 

Clearing  House  Asso- 
ciation 33. 

Cleopatra’s  Needle  52. 
Clubs  22.  20.  etc. 
Coaches  16. 

Collections  26. 

College  of  the  City  of 
New  York  49. 
Coloured  Orphan  Asyl- 
um 64. 

Columbia  Bank  44. 

— University  62. 
Columbus  Monum.  42. 
Commerce  30. 

— , High  School  of  51. 
Commercial  Cable 
Building  33. 

Concerts  20. 
Confectioners  12. 
Constable  Building  43. 
Cooper  Institute  38. 
Cortlandt  Park, Van 65. 
— Mansion  66. 

Cotton  Exchange  32. 
Court  for  Juvenile 
Offenders  50. 

Court  House  35. 
Cricket  21. 

Criminal  Courts  38. 
Croton  Aqueduct  65.  51. 
Crotona  Park  65. 
Custom  House  31.  32. 
Cycling  21. 

Dakota  Flats  50. 

Deaf  Mutes,  Institution 
for  64.  49. 
Delmonico’s  11.  44. 
Democratic  Club  44.  22. 
Depots  7. 

De  Vinne  Press  38. 
Drexel  Building  32. 
Dutch  Reformed  Ch.  44. 
East  River  Bridge  36. 13. 
Eighth  Avenue  50. 
Elevated  Railroads  12. 
Ellis  Island  3. 

Empire  Building  32. 
Environs  66. 

Equitable  Life  Ins.  Co. 

34. 


New  York: 

Evening  Post  Bldg.  34. 
Exchange  Court  Build- 
ing 32. 

Excursion  Brakes  17. 
Exhibitions  20. 

Express  Service  18. 
Eye  & Ear  Infirmary  50. 
Ferries  17.  34. 

Fifth  Avenue  42. 

Fire  Department  25. 
First  Avenue  49. 

Presb.  Church  45. 

Five  Points  36. 
Flat-iron  Building  40. 
Fordham  65. 

Fort  George  64. 

— Washington  64. 
Fourteenth  Street  39. 
Fourth  Avenue  47. 
Fraunces  Tavern  31. 
Fulton  Market  34. 

— Street  34. 

Furnished  Rooms  11. 
Ghetto  Market  36. 

Golf  21. 

Governor’s  Island  3. 
Grace  Church  39. 
Grand  Boulevard 
& Concourse  66. 
Grand  Central  Station 
48.  7.  44. 

— Opera  House  50.  19. 
— Street  38.  22. 
Grant’s  Tomb  63. 
Greeley  Square  41. 
Hackney  Carriages  16. 
Hamilton’s  House  64. 
Hanover  Bank  Build- 
ing 33. 

Harbour  28.  3. 

Harlem  Heights  64. 

— Mere  52. 

— Ship  Canal  65. 
Heavenly  Rest,  Church 
of  44. 

Herald  Square  41, 
High  Bridge  64. 
History  29. 

Holland  House  43.  10. 
Home  Life  Ins.  Co.  37. 
Horse  Exchange  41. 
Horse  Races  20. 
Hospitals  46.  48.  49.  50. 
51. 

Hotels  9. 

Houston  Street  38. 
Hunt  Memorial  47. 
Hydriatic  Institute  49. 
Industry  30. 

Isabella  Home  64. 
Islands  (East  River)  66. 
— (Harbour)  2. 


INDEX. 


647 


New  York: 

James  Fountain  39. 
Jefferson  Market  Po- 
lice Court  50. 
Jerome  Avenue  66. 
Judge  Building  43. 
Judson  Mem.  Builds. 

42. 

. Juvenile  Asylum  64. 
Kings!) ridge  Road  42. 
Knickerbocker  Club  43. 
Lafayette  Place  38. 
Lawn  Tennis  21. 

, Lenox  Library  46. 

, Lexington  Avenue  48. 

, Liberty,  Statue  of  3. 
Libraries  23.  43.  46.  62. 
Longacre  Square  41. 

^ Macy’s  41. 

Madison  Avenue  49. 

— Square  40. 

Garden  49.  19.  40. 

M,  il  & Express  Office 
. 34. 

Manhattan  27. 

— Bridge  37. 

— Club  22. 

— Life  Ins.  Co.  32. 

— Trust  Building  32. 
Manhattanville  64. 
Marble  Collegiate 
Church  43. 

Margaret  Louisa  Home 

43.  ,9.  . 

Ma.sonic  Tqmple  40.  50. 
Medical  Schools  50.  51. 
62. 

Mercantile  Library  38. 
Messenger  Service  18. 
Messiah,  Ch.  of  the  48. 
Methodist  Book  Con- 
cern 43. 

Metropolis  Bank  39. 
Metropolitan  Insurance 
Building  40. 

— Club  45. 

— Museum  of  Art  54. 
— Opera  House  41.  18. 
Mills  Building  33. 

— Hotels  38. 

Morgan's  House  49. 
.Morningside  Heights 
61. 

— Park  61. 

Morrisania  65. 

Mptt  Haven  65. 

Mt.  Morris  Square  47. 
Mulberry  Street  36. 
Murray  Hill  48. 
.Museum  for  Arts  of  Dec. 
38. 

Museums  52.  54. 

Music  Halls  19. 


New  York: 

Mutual  Life  Ins.  Co.  33. 
Nassau  Street  33. 

. National  Bank  of  Com- 
merce 33. 

— Park  Bank  34. 
Natur.Hist.  Museum  52. 
Navarro  Apartment 
Houses  45. 
Newsboys'  Lodging 
House  36. 

Newspaper  Offices  34. 
35.  41. 

Newspapers  23. 

New  York  Academy  of 
Medicine  44. 

Club  43.  22. 

Herald  41. 

Historical  So- 
ciety 50. 

Hospital  43. 

Life  Ins.  Co.  38. 

Press  35. 

Public  Library 

43.  38. 

Subway  14. 

Times  35.  41. 

University  42.  68. 

Ninth  Avenue  51. 
Normal  College  48. 

Old  Probabilities  34. 
Omnibuses  16. 

Opera  House  41. 

Oyster  Saloons  12. 

Park  Avenue  47. 

— Bank  34. 

— Row  35. 

Parks  50.  51.  63.  65. 
Pelham  Bay  Park  65. 
PetroleumExchange  32. 
Picture  Galleries  20. 
Pier  Gardens  29. 

Police  Stations  25. 
Population  27. 

Post  Office  34.  17. 
Postal  Telegraph  Build- 
ing 37. 

Potter  Building  35. 
Presbyterian  Buildina 
43. 

Produce  Exchange  31. 
Prot.  Epis.  Theol.  Sem. 
51. 

Public  Library  43.  46. 
Pulitzer  Building  35. 
Quarantine  Station  2. 
Queens,  Borough  of  27. 
Racquet  Club  44.  21. 
Railway  Stations  7.  44. 
48. 

Rapid  Transit  14. 
Reading  Rooms  23. 
Records,  Hall  of,  or 


New  York: 

Register's  Office  35. 
Renaissance,  the  44. 
Restaurants  11. 

Rialto  39. 

Richmond,  Borough  of 
27. 

Riverside  Drive  63. 
Roosevelt  Hospital  51. 
Rowing  Clubs  21. 
Sacred  Heart,  Convent 
of  64. 

St.  Bartholomew's  49. 
— Francis  Xavier's  43. 
— George’s  50. 

— John  the  Divine’s 
Cathedral  61. 

— Luke's  Hospital  62. 
— Mark's  50. 

--  Patrick’s  Cathedral 
44. 

— Paul  Build.  34. 

— Paul’s  34. 

— Stephen  s 50. 

— Thomas’s  45. 

Salle  Institute,  De  la  45. 
Sampson  Building  32. 
Savings  Banks  47.  50. 
Second  Avenue  49. 
Seeing  New  York  Com- 
pany 17. 

Seventh  Avenue  50. 
Seward  Park  36. 
Sheltering  Arms  64. 
Sherry’s  11.  44. 

Shops*  22. 

Siegel-Cooper  Co.  50. 
Sixth  Avenue  50. 

Slave  Market  39. 
Soldiers  & Sailors 
Monument  63. 
Speedway  6^  21. 

Sport  20. 

State  Arsenal  50. 

St  tue  of  Arthur  40. 

— of  Columbus  42. 

— of  Conkling  40. 

— of  Cooper  38. 

— of  Dodge  41. 

— of  Ericsson  30. 

— of  Farragut  40. 

— of  Franklin  35. 

— of  Garibaldi  42. 

— of  Greeley  36.  41. 

— of  Hale  35. 

— of  Lafayette  39. 

— of  Lincoln  39. 

— of  De  Peyster  31. 

— of  Seward  40. 

— of  Sherman  45. 

— of  Sims  50. 

— of  Washington  32. 
39.  63. 


648 


INDEX. 


New  York: 

Steamers  8. 

Steinway  Hall  39. 
Stock  Exchange  33. 
Stores  22. 

Streets  25. 

Stuyvesant  Square  50. 
Sub-Treasury  32. 
Subway  14.  35. 

Surety  Co.  34. 
Synagogues  44.  46.  49. 
Tammany  Hall  39. 
Teachers  College  63. 
Telegraph  Offices  18. 
37. 

Telephone  Offices  18. 
Temple  Emanu-El  44. 
Tenth  Avenue  51. 
Theatres  18.  41.  44. 
Third  Avenue  49. 
Tiffany  House  49. 
Tiffany’s  39.  43. 
Tombs,  the  38. 

Tontine  Building  32. 
Tourist  Agents  18. 
Tower  Building  32. 
Tract  Society  35. 
Tramways  14. 
Transfiguration,  Ch.  of 
43. 

Tribune  Building  35, 
Trinity  Building  34. 

— Church  33. 

Cemetery  64. 

Twenty-Third  Street 
40. 

Union  Club  45.  22. 

— League  Club  43.  22. 

— Square  39. 

— Theological  Semin- 
ary 48. 

— Trust  Co.  34. 

United  Charities  Bldg. 

47. 

University  Club  45.  22. 

— Place  42. 

— Settlement  Soc.  38. 
Vanderbilt  Houses  45. 
Villard  Mansions  49. 
Waldorf-Astoria  Hotel 

43.  10. 

Wall  Street  32. 
Wanamaker’s  Store 
22.  39. 

Washington  Bridge  65. 

— Building  32. 

— Centennial  Arch  42. 

— Heights  64. 

— Market  34. 

— Square  42. 

— , Statues  of  32.  39.  63. 
Water  Supply  65. 
Weather  Bureau  34. 


New  York: 

Westchester  Avenue  66. 
Western  Union  Tele- 
graph Co.  34. 
Whitehall  Building  31. 
— Street  31. 
Williamsbridge  65. 
Williamsburg  Bridge 
37. 

Women’s  Hospital  48. 
World  Office  35. 
Worth  Monument  40. 
Yacht  Clubs  20.  44. 
Yerkes  Gallery  20.  46. 
Young  Men’s  Christ. 
Assoc.  49. 

— Women’s  Christ. 
Assoc.  43. 

Zoological  Gardens  66. 
52. 

New  York  Mills,  Minn. 
471. 

Niagara  Falls  248. 

, N.Y.  247.  334. 

, Ont.  247.  339. 

Nicholson,  La.  427. 

Niles,  Cal.  564. 

— , Mich.  339. 

Nineveh,  N.Y.  202. 
Niverville,  N.Y.  174. 
Nome,  Alaska  607. 
Nonotuck  Mt.,  Mass.  182. 
Noon  Mark,  N.Y.  218. 
Nopala,  Mex.  611. 
Norcross,  Me.  132. 
Nordhoff,  Cal.  563. 
Nordmont,  Pa.  284. 
Norfolk,  Va.  414. 
Norlina,  N.  C.  414.  427. 
Normal,  111.  377. 
Normandie-bv-the-Sea, 

N.  J.  277. 

Norridgewock,  Me.  139. 
Norris  Hotel,  Wyo.  484. 
Norristown,  Pa.  285. 
North  Adams,  Mass.  180. 
173. 

Northampton,  Mass.  182. 
North  Beach,  Wash.  586. 

— Bend,  0.  388.  400. 

— Bennington,  Vt.  186. 

— Berwick,  Me.  126.  127. 

— Billerica,  Mass.  151. 

— Carolina  434. 

— Conway,N.H.160. 144. 

— Creek,  N.  Y.  224. 

— Cucamonga,  Cal.  526. 

— Dakota  471.  375.  467. 

— Dome,  Cal.  578. 

~ Duxbury,  Vt  154, 

— East,  Del.  301. 

Harbor,  Me.  137. 

— Elba,  N.  Y.  215. 


Northfield,  N.Y.  84. 

, Vt  j[53 

North  Haven,  Me.  133, 

— Hero,  Vt.  150. 

. — Mt.,  N.Y.  205. 

, Va.  381. 

— Ontario,  Cal.  526. 

— Park,  Colo.  497. 

— Pepin,  Wis.  404. 

. — Philadelphia,  Pa.  258. 

— Platte,  Neb.  497. 

— Pomona,  Cal.  527. 

— River,  N.Y.  13.  27. 

— Shore,  Mass.  123. 

— Stratford,  N.H.  144.145. 
Northumberland,  Pa.  284. 
North  Vernon,  Ind.  400. 
Northville,  N.Y.  232. 
Northwood,  Minn.  365. 
North  Woodstock , N.H, 

156. 

— Yakima,  Wash.  475. 
Norton  Mills,  Vt.  144. 

— Sound,  B.C.  607. 
Norton’s  Point,  N.Y.  74. 
Norwalk,  Ct.  76.  173. 

-,  0.  333. 

Norwich,  Ct.  88. 

-,  Vt.  183. 

Norwood,  N.Y.  234. 

— , O.  3S3. 

Noyan,  Can.  151. 

Nyack,  N.Y.  188. 

Oakdale,  Cal.  574. 

— , Miss.  403, 

— , N.Y.  75. 

— , Tenn.  398. 

Oakes.  Minn.  471. 

Oak  Hill,  Fla.  451. 
Oakland,  Cal.  502.  526. 

— , Fla.  457. 

— , 111.  394. 

— , Md.  329. 

— , Me.  139. 

— , Miss.  402. 

County,  Mich.  337. 
Oaklawn,  Fla.  458. 
Oakley,  Kan.  512. 
Oaxaca,  Mex.  626. 
Oberlin,  0.  333. 

Obion,  Tenn.  400. 
Obsidian  Cliff,  Mont.  483. 
Ocala,  Fla.  459. 

Ocatlan,  Mex.  626. 
Occidental,  Cal.  552. 
Ocean  City,  N.  J.  281. 

— Grove,  N.  J.  276. 

— Park,  Cal.  568. 
Oceanside,  Cal.  571. 
Ocean  Springs,  Miss.  422. 

— View,  Cal.  556. 

,Va.  414. 


INDEX. 


649 


Ocklawaha  River, Fla.455 
Oconee,  Ga.  442. 
Oconomowoc,  Wis.  361 
Ocoyoacac,  Mex.  612. 
Oflenton,  Md.  308. 
Odessa,  Tex.  59S. 

Odin,  111.  389.  402. 
Oclwein,  la.  384.  508, 
Ogden,  Utah  498. 

— Monument,  Kan.  512. 
Ogdensburg,  N.Y.255.150 
Ohio  326.  330. 

— River  296.  326.  329. 

382.  385.  406.  etc. 

Oil  City,  Pa,  299. 

O.iai  Valley,  Cal.  563. 
Ojo  Caliente.  K.  M.  532. 

, Mex.  613. 

Oklahoma  518. 

Okohoj  Lake,  la.  491. 

01  ar,  S.  C.  445. 

Old  Beach,  Cal.  587. 

• — Kasaan,  Alaska  602. 
Oldfield,  Va.  413. 

Old  Forge,  N.Y.  221. 

— Fort,  R.C.  431. 

— Mission,  Wash.  469. 

— Orchard  Beach,  Me. 
128. 

— Point  Comfort,Va.  415. 
Oldtown,  Me.  131. 

Olean,  N.Y.  285.  344. 
Olic,  Cal  565. 

Olustee,  Fla.  460. 
Olympia,  Wash.  478. 
Olympic  Mts.,  Wash.  597. 
Omaha,  Neb.  494. 
Ometusco,  Mex.  623. 

On  chi  Ota,  N.Y.  212.  224. 
Oneida,  N.Y.  234.  344. 

— , Tenn.  398. 

— Castle,  N.Y.  242. 

— Lake,  N.Y.  234.  344. 
Oneonta,  N.Y.  202.  209. 

— , Ore.  506. 

Onondaga  Lake,  N.Y.  235. 
Onota  Lake,  Mass.  119. 
Onset,  Mass.  120. 

Ontario,  Cal.  586. 

— Beach,  N.Y.  238. 

— Lake  339. 

Onteora  Park,  N.Y.  207. 
Ontonagon,  Mich.  373. 
Opelika,  Ala.  420. 
Oquirrh  Mts.,  Utah  537. 
Oquossoc  Lake,  Me.  141. 
Orange,  Cal.  528.  571. 

~,  N.J.  243. 

— , Tex.  594. 

-,  Va.  380.  417. 

— City,  Fla.  450. 

— Grove,  Fla.  413. 

Lake,  Fla.  459. 


Orange  Mills,  Fla.  454. 
— Park,  Fla.  454. 

— Springs,  Fla.  456. 
Oregon  (state)  583. 

— , 111.  364. 

— City,  Ore.  584. 

— National  Park,  Ore 
584. 

Oriskany,  Va.  234. 
Orizaba,  Mex.  624. 

— Mt.,  Mex.  623. 
Orlando,  Fla.  457. 
Orleans,  Mass.  120. 
Ormond,  Fla.  450. 
Orono,  Me.  131. 

Ortiz,  Mex.  613. 

Osage  City,  Kan.  510.  517, 
Osakis,  Minn.  375. 
Osceola,  la.  495. 

Osgood,  Ind.  400. 
Oshkosh,  Wis.  364. 
Ossawattomie,  Kan.  510. 
Ossining,  N.Y.  188.  192. 
Ossipee,  N.  H.  158. 
Osterville,  Mass.  120. 
Oswego,  N.Y.  344. 

Osyka,  Miss.  403. 

Otis,  Ind.  334. 

-,  Wash.  475. 

— Junction,  N.Y.  203. 
Otisville,  N.Y.  245. 
Otsego  Lake,  N.Y.  201. 
Ottawa,  111.  493. 

— , Kan.  510. 

Otter  Lake,  N.Y.  221. 

— Peaks,  Va.  423. 
Ottumwa,  la.  485. 
Otumba,  Mex.  623.  625. 
Ouray,  Colo.  534. 

— Mt.,  Colo.  535. 
Overlook  Mt. , N.Y.  205. 

206. 

Overton,  Ariz.  524. 
Owasco  Lake,  N.Y.  236. 
Owego,  N.Y.  244.  247. 
OwPs  Head,  N.Y.  224. 

Mt.,  Vt.  157. 

, N.H.  168. 

Oxford,  Neb.  486. 

— Junction,  la.  491. 
Oxnard,  Col.  563. 

Oyster  Bay,  N.Y.  75. 
Oyunquit  Beach  126. 
Ozark  Mts.,  Ark.  511. 

Pablo  Beach,  Fla.  446. 
Pacheco,  Mex.  614. 
Pachuca,  Mex.  617.  622. 
623. 

Pacific  Beach,  Cal.  572. 

— Congress  Springs,  Cal. 
558. 

— Grove,  Cal.  559.  | 


Pacific  Junction,  Mont. 
468. 

, la.  495. 

, La.  403. 

— Ocean  556.  563. 
Packer  ton.  Pa.  282. 
Paducah,  Ky.  400. 
Pagosa  Springs,  N.M.  533. 
Pail  a,  Mex.  612. 
Painesville,  0.  330. 
Painted  Cave,  Tex.  589. 
Paint  Rock,  N.C.  433. 
Paisano,  Tex.  589. 
Pajaro,  Cal.  556.  559. 
Palatine  Bridge,  N.Y.  233. 
Palatka,  Fla.  454. 
Palenville,  N.Y.  204. 
Palisade,  Nev.  499. 
Palisades,  N.J.  68.  187. 
Palm  Beach,  Fla.  452. 
Palmer,  Mass.  81. 

-,  Wash.  476. 

— Lake,  Colo.  528. 

— Park,  Colo.  529. 
Palmetto,  Fla.  460. 
Palmilla,  N.  M.  532. 

Palm  Springs,  Cal.  5S7. 
— , Fla.  457. 

— Valley,  Cal.  587. 
Palmer  Lake,  Colo.  527. 

— Park,  Colo.  529. 
Palmyra,  Mo.  509. 

Y.  235. 

Palo  Alto,  Cal.'  557. 
Palomares,  Mex.  624. 
Pana,  111.  388. 

Panas,  Mex.  614. 
Panasoffkee,  Fla.  459. 
Pando,  Colo.  535. 
Panzacola,  Mex.  623. 
Paoli,  Pa.  287. 

Paonia,  Colo.  536. 
Parachute,  Colo.  538. 
Paradise,  Mont.  475. 

— Park,  Wash.  478. 
Paraiso  Springs,  Cal.  560. 
Paris,  111.  388. 

-,  Ind.  400. 

— , Ky.  397. 

— , Me.  143. 

Parker,  N.H.  152. 
Parkersburg,  W.Va.  383. 
Park  Rapids,  Minn.  375. 
Parksville,  N.Y.  344. 
Parlin,  Colo.  516.  535. 
Parma,  Idaho  504. 

— , Mich.  339. 
Parmachenee  Lake,  Me. 
141. 

Parral,  Mex.  613. 

Parras,  Mex.  614. 
Pasadena,  Cal.  569.  527. 
586. 


650 


INDEX. 


Pasadena  Lake,  Fla.  460. 
Pasco,  Wash.  476. 

Paso,  El,  Tex.  589. 

— del  Macho,  Mex.  624, 

— Robles,  Cal.  560. 
Passaic,  N.  J.  243.  245. 
Passamaquoddy  Bay  142. 
Pass  Christian,  Miss.  422. 
Pass  umpsicRi  ver  146. 156. 

— Falls,  Vt.  157. 
Patchogue,  N.Y.  75. 
Paterson,  N.  J.  243.  245. 
Patten,  Me.  132. 
Pattenburg,  N.J.  247. 
Patterson  G^lacier,  Alaska 

603. 

Patterson's  Creek,  W.Va. 
329. 

Patzcuaro,  Mex.  611. 
Paul  Smith's,  N.Y.  212.224. 
Paul's  Valley,  I.  T.  518. 
Pawling,  N.Y.  68, 
Pawtucket,  R.  I.  86. 
Paxton,  111.  402. 

Payne,  0.  334. 

Peabody,  Kan.  518. 

, Mass.  123. 

— Glen,  N.  H.  162. 

Peach  Springs,  Ariz.  524 
Peconic  Bay,  N.  Y.  75. 
Pecos  City,  Tex.  596. 
Pedrito,  Mex.  615. 
Peebles,  0.  387.  423. 

Pee  Dee,  S.  C.  434. 
Peekskill,  N.  Y.  189.  192. 
Pegram,  Idaho  503. 
Pemaquid,  Me.  133. 
Pembina,  N.  D.  376. 
Pembroke,  N.  C.  434. 

— , Va.  423. 

Penacook,  N.  H.  153. 
Pend  d'Oreille  Lake, 
Idaho  468.  475. 
Pendleton,  Ore.  505. 
Pen-Mar,  Md.  307. 

Penn’s  Mt.,  Pa.  286. 
Pennsylvania  246. 247. 258. 
Penn  Yan,  N.  Y.  238. 
Penobscot  River  130. 132. 
Pensacola,  Pla.  461. 
Peoria,  111.  376. 

Pepin  Lake,  Wis.  362. 404. 
Pequop,  Nev.  499. 

Pequot  House,  Ct.  83. 
Percy  Peaks,  Me.  144. 
Perez,  Mex.  624. 

Peril  Strait,  Alaska  606. 
Perma,  Mont.  475. 
Perote,  Mex.  626. 

Perris,  Cal.  526. 

Perry,  Oklahoma  518- 
— , S.  C.  440. 

— Park,  Colo.  523. 


Perry ville,  Md.  301. 

Perth  Amboy,  N.  J.  2?6. 
Peru,  Ind.  388. 

— , Me.  140. 

Pescadero,  Cal.  556. 
Petaluma,  Cal.  552. 
Peterboro,  IST.  H.  143. 
Peter's  Beach,  N.  J.  280. 
Petersburg,  Pa.  289. 

— , Va.  416. 

Peterson,  Utah  498. 
Petrified  Forest,  Ariz.  521. 

, Cal.  553. 

Peyotes,  Mex.  612. 
Philadelphia,  N.  Y.  234. 
Philadelphia,  Pa.  259. 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts 
266. 

•—  of  Music  270. 

— of  Natur.  Sciences 
268. 

— of  the  Prot.  Episc. 
Church  266. 

Advocate,  Ch.  of  the 

269. 

Apprentices’  Library 
263. 

Arch  Street  271. 

Art  Club  270. 

Baldwin  Locomotive 
Works  288. 

Bartram’s  Garden  273. 
Betz  Building  262. 
Blockley  Almshouses 
272. 

Bourse  264. 

Broad  Street  262. 

Station  262. 

Builders'  Exchange 
263. 

Carpenters'  Hall  284. 
Chestnut  Hill  274. 

— Street  262. 

Christ  Church  271. 
Churches  265.  263.  269. 

270.  271. 

City  Hall  262. 

College  of  Physicians 

266. 

Commercial  Museum 
265.  272. 

Cooper’s  Shop  272. 
Cramp's  Ship  Building 
Yards  272. 

Custom  House  264. 
Drexel  Building  264. 

— Institute  272. 
Eastern  Penitentiary 
269. 

Exhibitions  of  Art  260. 
Fair  mount  Avenue  268. 
— Park  273. 

Franklin  Institute  263. 


Philadelphia; 

Franklin’s  Statue  264, 
— Tomb  271. 
Germantown  275. 
Girard  Avenue  270. 

— Bank  265. 

— College  269. 

— Park  273. 

Historical  Society  265. 
Horticultural  Hall  270. 
274. 

Hospitals  265.  268.  270. 
272. 

Independence  Hall  263. 
Insane  Asylum  273. 
Jefferson  Med.  College 

263. 

Land  Title  Buildung 
266.  270. 

Laurel  Hill  Cem.  274. 
League  Island  271. 
Lincoln  Park  275. 
Market  Street  271. 
Masonic  Temple  262. 
266. 

Memorial  Hall  274. 
Mercantile  Club  269. 

— Library  263. 
Merchants’  Exchange 

265. 

Mint  268. 

Museum  of  Science  and 
Art  272. 

Naval  Asylum  273. 
North  American  Build- 
ing 270. 

North  Broad  Street  266. 
Odd  Fellows'  Temple 

266. 

Penn  House  274. 

— National  Bank  271. 
— Treaty  Park  272. 
Philadelphia  Free 
Library  263. 

— Library  263. 
Philosophical  Society 

264. 

Post  Office  260.  263. 
Public  Buildings  262. 
Railway  Stations  259. 

262.  266.  271. 
Ridgway  Library  270. 
Rittenhouse  Sq.  266. 
St.  Mark’s  266. 

St.  Peter's  265. 

SS.  Peter  and  Paul 
(cathedral)  268. 
School  of  Industrial 
Art  270. 

Schuylkill  Arsenal  273. 
— Falls  274. 
Shackamaxon  271. 
South  Broad  Street  270. 


INDEX. 


651 


Philadelphia : 

South  Memorial  Church 
269. 

Spring  Garden  Institute 
268. 

Street  268. 

Stenton  Park  275. 
Stock  Exchange  265. 
Streets  262. 

Swedes’  Church  271. 
Synagogue  269. 
Theatres  260. 

Union  League  Club  270. 
University  272. 

Walnut  Street  265. 
Wanamaker’s  262. 
Washington  Park  275. 
— Sq.  265. 

West  Philadelphia  272. 
Widener  Mansion  269. 
Willow  Grove  275. 
Wissahickon  Drive 
274. 

Zoological  Garden  275. 
Philippsburg,  N.  J.  247. 
Phillips,  Me.  140. 

— Beach,  Mass.  121. 
Phillipsburg,  Kan.  498. 
Phoenicia,  N.Y.  207. 
Phoenix,  Ariz.  588. 
Phoenixville,  Pa.  285. 
Piccolata,  Fla.  454. 
Pickett’s,  Va.  413. 
Pictured  Rocks,  Mich.  373. 
Piedmont,  Md.  329. 
Pigeon  Cove,  Mass.  124. 
Pike  County,  Pa.  246. 
Pike’s  Peak,  Colo.  530. 
Piketon,  O.  423. 

Pilot  Knob,  Mo.  511. 

— Peak,  Kev.  499. 

— Rock,  Ore.  583. 

Pine  Bluffs,  Wyo.  497. 

— Grove,  Colo.  516. 

— Hill,  K.Y.  209. 
Pinehurst,  N.  C.  428. 

Pine  Knot,  Ky.  398. 
Pineland,  Ga.  440. 

Pine  Valley  Range,  Utah 
543. 

Pinkham  Notch,  N.  H.  161. 
Pinner’s  Point,  Va.  418. 
Piqua,  O.  327. 

Piru,  Cal.  563. 

Pisgah  Mt.,  N.  C.  432. 
Pitkin,  Colo.  516. 
Pittsburg,  Pa.  295. 
Pittsfield,  Mass.  179.  172. 
— , Me.  130. 

Pittsford,  Vt.  149. 
Pittston,  Pa.  284. 
Placentia  Islands,  Me.  133. 
Placerville,  Colo.  533. 


Placid  Lake,  N.  Y.  215. 
212. 

Plainfield,  Ct.  88. 

— , N.  J.  258. 

Plainville,  Ct.  80. 

Plant  City,  Fla.  457.  460. 
Plaquemine,  La.  407.  595. 
Platte  Canon,  Colo.  516. 

— River,  Colo.  516.  527. 
Plattekill  Clove,  N.Y.207. 
Plattsburg,  N.  Y.  185.  231. 
Playa  del  Rey,  Cal.  568. 
Pleasant  Hill,  111.  507. 
, Mo.  510. 

, N.  C.  434. 

Lake,  Mass.  172. 

— Mt.,  Me.  144. 

, N.H.  171. 

Pleasantville,  N.  J.  280. 
Pleasure  Bay,  N.  J.  277. 
Plum  Island,  Mass.  125. 
Plymouth,  Ind.  326. 

— , Mass.  117. 

— , Mich.  338. 

-,  N.  C.  434. 

-,  N.  H.  155. 

Plympton,  Mass.  117. 
Pocahontas,  W.  Va.  423. 
Pocantico  Hills,  N.  Y.  68. 
Pocasset,  Mass.  118. 
Pocatello,  Idaho  503. 
Pocock,  Ariz.  524. 
Pocomtuck  Mt.,  Mass.  173. 
Point  Clear,  Ala.  422. 

— Concepcion,  Cal.  561. 

— Judith,  Ct.  89. 

— Lookout,  Md.  308. 

— of  Pines,  Mass.  121. 

— Pleasant,  N.  J.  277. 

— Reyes,  Cal.  552. 

— of  Rocks,  Md.  328. 
, Wyo.  49S. 

— Sublime,  Colo.  531. 
Poland  Springs,  Me.  140. 
Pomona.  Cal.  586. 
PompeyA  Pillar , Mont. 

472. 

Ponca  City,  Oklah.  518. 
Poncha,  Colo.  565. 
Ponemah  Springs,  N.  H. 
152. 

Pontchartrain  Junct.,  La. 
422. 

— Lake,  La.  463.  403. 422. 
Pontiac,  Mich.  337. 
Pontoosuc  Lake,  Mass. 

179. 

Popham  Beach,  Me.  133. 
Poplar,  Mont.  467. 

— Bluff,  Mo.  511. 

— Hill,  Ky.  397. 
Popocatepetl,  Mec.  622. 
Popotla,  Mex.  621. 


Portage,  N.  Y.  247. 

— City,  Wis.  361. 

— Falls,  N.  Y.  247. 

— Lake,  Mich.  373. 

Port  Allegany,  Pa.  285. 

— Allen,  La.  595. 

— Chester,  Alaska  602. 
, N.  Y.  76. 

— Clinton,  Pa.  286. 

--  Costa,  Cal.  502.  564. 

— Deposit,  Md.  301. 

— Gibson,  Miss.  401. 

— Harford,  Cal.  561. 

— Henry,  N.  Y.  184.  231. 

— Huron,  Mich.  340. 

— Jackson,  N.  Y.  231. 

— Jefferson,  N.  Y.  75. 

— Jervis,  N.  Y.  245. 

— Kent,  N.Y.  213.  184. 
231 

Portland,  Me.  128. 

— , Ore.  584. 

— Inlet,  B.  C.  600. 

Port  Louis,  N.  Y.  253. 

— Moody,  B.  C.  470. 

— Orange,  Fla.  450. 

— Richmond , Cal.  526. 
535. 

, N.  Y.  67. 

— Royal,  S.  C.  439. 

— Simpson,  B.  C.  600. 
Portsmouth  N.  H.  125. 
-,  0.  423. 

— , Va.  414. 

Port  Stanley,  Ont.  335. 

— Tampa,  Fla.  485. 

— Townsend,  Wash. 
597. 

Potomac  River  325.  327. 

328.  408.  etc. 

— , Falls  of  the  326. 
Potosi,  Mo.  511. 

Potter  Place,  N.  H.  153. 
Pottstown,  Pa.  285. 
Pottsville,  Pa.  286. 
Poughkeepsie,  N.  Y.  193. 
190. 

— Mt.,  Mont.  474. 

Pozos,  Mex.  610. 

Prairie  du  Chien  , Wis. 

364.  404. 

Prattsville,  N.  Y.  209. 
Pregnall’s,  S.  C.  438. 
Prescott,  Ariz.  524. 

— , Can.  255. 

— , Wis.  404. 

Presidential  Range  159. 
Presumpscot  River  143. 
144. 

Price,  Utah  536. 

Prickly  Pear  Canon,  Mont. 
468. 

Junction,  Mont. 473. 


652 


INDEX. 


Priest’s,  Cal.  574. 

Prince  of  Wales  Island, 
B.  C.  600. 

Princess  Bay,  N.  Y.  67. 
--  IloyalIsland,B.  C.600. 


U,  J.». 

Princeton,  111.  394. 

-,  Ky.  394. 

— , Mass.  148. 

Me.  132. 

-,  17.  J.  257. 

— Mt.,  Colo.  516. 

Prince  William  Sound, 

Alaska  607. 

Proctor,  Vt.  149. 

Profile  House,  N.  H.  1G7. 

— Mt.,  N.H.  167. 
Prospect  Mt.,  Ct.  174. 

, Mass.  178. 

, N.  H.  145.  156. 

— Rock,  Pa.  283. 
Prosser,  Wash.  476. 
Prout’s  Neck,  Me.  128. 
Providence,  R.  I.  84. 

— Forge,  Va.  415. 
Provincetown,  Mass.  120. 
Provo,  Utah  537.  542. 
Prudence  Island,  R.  I.  93, 
Puebla,  Mex.  625. 

Pueblo,  Colo.  532. 

— de  Taos,  N.  M.  532. 
Puente  de  Ixtla,  Mex. 

622. 

Puget  Sound,  Wash.  597. 
469.  477. 

Pulaski,  Va.  423. 
Pullman,  111.  357. 

Punta  Gorda,  Fla.  457. 
Purcell,  Oklahoma  518. 
Put-in-Bay  Islands,  0. 
341. 

Putnam,  Ct.  87.  83. 

— Junction,  N.Y.  68. 
Puyallup,  Wash.  477. 
Pyramid  Harbor,  Alaska 

605. 

Park,  N.  D.  472. 

Q-uantico,  Va.  408. 
Quebec,  Can.  144. 

— Junction,  N.  H.  145, 
Queen  Charlotte’s  Sound 

B.  C.  599. 

Queens,  N.  Y.  75. 
Queenston,  Can.  254. 
Queretaro,  Mex.  616. 
Quincy,  Fla.  461. 

-,  111.  509. 

— , Mass.  94. 

Quinniraont,  W.  Va.  382. 
Quinsigamond  Lake, 

Mass.  82. 

Quiotepec,  Mex.  626. 
Quirauk  Mt.,  Pa.  307. 


Racine,  Wis.  358. 
Rahway,  N.  J.  257. 
Railroad  Pass,  Ariz.  588. 
Rainbow  Lake,  N.  Y.  224 
Rainier  Mt.,  Wash.  478. 
Rainy  Lake,  Minn.  571 
Raleigh,  N.  C.  427. 

Tenn.  401. 

Ralph’s,  N.  Y.  211. 
Ramapo,  N.Y.  245. 
Randall’s  Island,  N.  Y.  66. 
Randallsville,  N.  Y.  344. 
Randolph,  N.  H.  143.  163. 
— , Va.  434. 

Vt.  153. 

— Hill,  N.H.  163. 
Randsburg,  Cal.  525. 
Rangeley,  Me.  140. 

— Lakes,  Me.  141. 
Ranney,  111.  353. 

Rantoul,  111.  402. 
Rapidan,  Va.  417. 
Raquette  River  212.  222. 

Lake,  N.  Y.  222. 
Rascon,  Mex.  615. 
Rathdrum,  Idaho  475. 
Raton,  N.  M.  519. 

— Mts.,  N.  M.  519. 
Rattlesnake  Island,  Cal 

568. 

Ravena,  N.  Y.  196.  242. 
Ravenna,  0.  345. 

Rawlins,  Wyo.  498. 

Ray  Brook,  N.  Y.  212. 
Raymond,  Cal.  564.  574. 
Reading,  Pa.  285. 

Read’s  Landing,  Minn. 
404. 

Readville,  Mass.  86.  87. 
Real  del  Monte,  Mex.  622. 
Reata,  Mex.  610.  612. 

Red  Bank,  N.  J.  276. 
Church,  La.  407. 

— Cliff,  Colo.  535. 
Redding,  Cal.  582. 

0^ 

Red  Hill,  N.H.  155. 
Redlands,  Cal.  569. 

Red  Mountain,  Colo.  533 

— Mts.,  Wyo.  488. 

— Oak,  la.  495. 

Redondo  Beach,  Cal.  568. 

,571. 

Red  River,  Miss.  407. 

— Landing,  Miss.  407. 
— Valley,  Minn.  376. 
Rock  Pass,  Mont.  503. 

— Springs,  N.«C.  434. 

— Sulphur  Springs,  Va. 
382. 

Wing,  Minn.  362.  404. 
Redstone  Park,  Cal.  565. 
Redwood,  Cal.  556. 


Redwood,  Miss.  401. 
Relay,  Md.  308. 
Remington,  Va.  417. 

— Park,  Fla.  454. 
Remsen,  N.Y.  234. 

Reno,  Nev.  499. 

Renovo,  Pa.  285. 
Rensselaer,  N.Y.  172. 191. 
193. 

Revere  Beach,  Mass.  121. 
R evillagigedo,  Alaska  602. 
Rhinebeck,  N.Y.  193. 
Rhinecliff,  N.Y.  193. 
Rhode  Island  84.  93. 
Richfield  Springs,  N.Y. 
234. 

Richford,  Vt.  157. 
Richmond,  Can.  144. 

— , Ind.  379. 

-,  Va.  408. 

— Beach,  N.Y.  67. 
Richmondville,  N.Y.  201. 
Rico,  Colo.  533. 
Ridgefield,  Ct.  173. 
Ridgeway,  N.  C.  427. 
Ridgway,  Colo.  533.  534. 
Rifle,  Colo.  538. 

Rincon,  Cal.  556. 

Mex.  610. 

. N.M.  520. 

— Antonio,  Mex.  624. 

Rio  Grande  519.  589.  612. 
Rioville,  Ariz.  524. 
Rivera,  Cal.  571. 
Riverhead,  N.Y.  75. 

River  Junction,  Fla.  461. 
Riverside,  Cal.  501.  527. 

Mass.  116. 

Mo.  510. 

N.Y.  224. 

Riverton,  Va.  429. 

Roan  Mt.,  Tenn.  424. 
Roanoke,  Va.  423. 
Robinson,  Colo.  516. 
Robin’s  Reef,  N.Y.  2. 
Rochelle,  Fla.  458. 
Rochester,  N.  H.  157. 

N.Y.  238.  242.  284. 

-,  Pa.  300.  326. 
Rockaway  Beach,  N.Y.  74. 
Rockbridge  Alum 
Springs,  Va.  381. 
Rockford,  111.  363.  493. 
Rock  Hill,  S.  C.  435. 

— Island,  111.  493. 

— — Junction,  O.  330. 

Rapids,  Wash.  469. 

Rockland,  Me.  133. 

, N.Y.  344. 

■ Lake,  N.Y.  194. 
Rockledge,  Fla.  452. 
Rockport,  Ky.  400. 

Mass.  124. 


INDEX. 


66- 


Rocksport,  Tex.  592. 
Rock  River,  Wyo.  498. 
Rockville,  Pa.  289. 
Rockwood,  Colo.  533. 
Rocky  Ford,  Ga.  442. 

— Hill,  N.  J.  257. 

— Mount,  N.C.  434. 

— Mts.  468.  474.  487.  497, 
513.  517  etc. 

— Point,  R.I.  86. 
Rodney,  Mis.s.  406. 
Rogers,  Ga.  442. 

— , KM.  589. 

Roger’s  Rock,  KY.  229. 
Roland  Lake,  Md.  307. 
Rolling  Fork,  Miss.  401. 
Rome,  Ga.  426. 

-,  N.Y.  234. 

Romley,  Colo.  516. 
Rondaxe,  KY.  221. 
Rondout,  111.  358. 

— , KY.  295.  190. 
Ronkonkoma,  KY.  75. 
Roodkouse,  111.  507. 
Rosamond,  Cal.  565. 
Rosario,  Mex.  6lL 
Rosebud,  Mont.  472. 
Roseburg,  Ore.  584. 
Rosenberg,  Tex.  518.  592 
Roseville,  Cal.  501.  582, 
Roswell,  KM.  596. 
Rotterdam,  KY.  173.  242. 
Round  Island,  KY.  255. 

— Lake,  KY.  184.  213. 
Rouse’s  Point,  KY.  185. 

150. 

Rowe,  KM.  519. 

Rowena,  Ore.  505. 
Rowlesburg,  W.Va.  329. 
Roxbury,  Mass.  86, 

-,  N.Y.  209. 

Va.  415. 

-,  Vt.  153. 

Roy,  Utah  537. 

Royal  Gorge,  Colo.  534. 
Rubio  Canon,  Cal.  570. 
Rugby,  N.  D.  467. 

— , Tenn.  398. 

— Junction,  Wis.  364. 
Rumford,  Me.  140. 

— Falls,  Me.  140. 

Rural  Retreat,  Va.  424. 
Rushville,  Ind.  379. 
Ruskin,  Ga.  444. 

Russell,  Ky.  382. 
Rutherford,  KJ.  247. 
Rutherfordton,  !N.C.  428 
Rutland,  Vt.  149. 

Rye,  N.Y.  76. 

— Beach,  R.  H.  125. 

Sabbath  Day  Point,  KY. 
229. 


Sabinas,  Mex.  612. 
Sabine  Pass,  Tex.  594. 
Sabula,  la.  405.  491. 
Sackett’s  Harbor,  KY. 
234. 

Saco,  Me.  127. 
Sacramento,  Cal.  501. 
Saddleback  Mt.,  Me.  140. 
Sag  Harbor,  N.Y.  64. 
Sagamore  Lake,  KY.  222. 
Saginaw  City,  Mich.  340. 
Saguache  or  Sawatch  Mts., 
Colo.  516.  538. 

Sailors’  Snug  Harbor, 
KY.  67. 

St.  Albans,  Vt.  154. 

Bay,  KY.  232. 

Andrews,  Me.  131. 
Anthony  s Falls,  Minn. 
368. 

— Augustine,  Fla.  447. 

— Catherine,  Fla.  459. 
Catherine’s,  Ont.  339, 
Clair  Springs,  Mich, 

338. 

— Lake,  Mich.  338. 
341. 

— Cloud,  Fla.  457. 

— , Minn.  375.  470. 
Croix  Junction,  Can, 

132. 

Lake,  Wis.  363. 404. 

— Elias  Mt.,  Alaska  607. 
Elmo,  Colo.  516. 
George,  KY.  67. 

— , Utah  543. 

Helena,  Cal.  552. 

Mt.,  Cal.  553. 

Helens  Mt. , Ore.  586. 
Hubert’s  Inn,  KY.  217. 
Ignace,  Mich.  338. 
James,  Md.  429. 

— John,  KB.  131. 

River,  Can.  110. 

— John’s,  Cue.  151.  154. 
185. 

• — River,  Fla.  454. 

— Johnsbury,  Vt.  146. 
156. 

— Joseph,  Miss.  406. 

-,  Mo.  509. 

— Lawrence  River  254. 
255. 

• — Park  255. 

• Louis,  Mo.  389. 

• Mark’s,  Fla.  461. 
Mary’s,  Pa.  286. 

— City,  Md.  308. 

- River  342.  373.  444. 
— Ship  Canal  373. 
Michael’s,  Alaska  607. 
Paul,  Minn.  365. 
Peter’s,  Colo.  531. 


St.  Petersburg,  Fla.  457 
— Regis  Lake,  N.Y.  21' 
224. 

— Simon’s  Island,  Teni 
426. 

— Thomas,  Ariz.  524. 

, Ont.  335. 

— Vincent,  Convent  188 
Ste.  Anne,  R.Y.  256. 

— Genevieve,  Mo.  406. 
Salamanca,  Mex.  616. 

. X.Y.  247.  344. 
Salazar,  Mex.  612. 
Salem,  Mass.  122. 

— , Ore.  584. 

— , Va.  423. 

Salida,  Colo.  534. 

Salina,  Kan.  510. 

— , Utah  537. 

— Cruz,  Mex.  624. 
Salinas,  Cal.  560. 

— , Mex.  615. 

Salisbury,  Ct.  174. 

Mass.  125. 

KC.  418. 

— Beach,  Mass.  125. 
Salmon  Falls,  N.  H.  127 

157. 

River  224. 

Saltair,  Utah  542. 
Saltillo,  Mex.  610. 

Salt  Lake,  Utah  499.  542 
City,  Utah  499. 

— Sulphur  Springs, 
W.Va.  382. 

Salton,  Cal.  587. 

Saluda  Gap,  N.  C.  433. 
Salvatierra,  Mex.  611. 
Samalayuca,  Mex.  613. 
San  Andres,  Mex.  613. 628 
Anselmo,  Cal.  552. 
Antonio,  Mex.  613. 62f 
— , N.M.  520. 

, Tex.  590. 

Mission,  Cal.  560. 

Mt.,  Cal.  527.  57( 

— Bernardino,  Cal.  526 

Mts.  526.  587. 

Sanborn,  K.D.  471. 
Sanbornville,  KH.  157. 
San  Bruno,  Cal.  556. 

Mt.,  Cal.  551. 

— Buenaventura, Cal.56i 

— Clemente,  Cal.  570. 

— Cristobal  Lake,  Coh 
536. 

Sanderson,  Tex.  589. 

San  Diego,  Cal.  572. 
Sand  Key,  Fla.  458. 

— Point,  Idaho  468.  475 
Sandusky,  O.  333. 
Sandwich,  Mass.  120. 
Sandy  Hook,  Ct.  2.  277 


654 


INDEX. 


Sandy  Point,  Va.  413. 
San  Felipe,  N.  M.  520. 

■ — Fernando  Mts.,Cal.566. 
Sanford,  Fla.  45t. 

— , N.  C.  428. 

San  Francisco,  Cal.  543. 

— — Bay,  Cal.  551.  556. 
Mts.,  A viz.  521. 

— Gabriel,  Cal.  568.  586. 

■ — Geronimo,  Mex.  624. 

— Gorgonio  Mt.,  Cal.  526. 

Pass,  Cal.  587. 

Sanger  Junction,  Cal.  564. 
Sangre  de  Cristo  Mts., 

Colo.  535. 

San  Gregorio,  Cal.  558. 
Sanitaria  Springs , N.Y. 
202. 

San  Jacinto,  Cal.  525. 
Mts.,  Cal.  587. 

— Joaquin  Valley,  Cal. 
564. 

— Jose,  Cal.  557. 

— Juan,  Cal.  571. 

, Mex.  614. 

de  las  Huertas, 

Mex.  611. 

^ del  Rio,  Mex.  617. 

— — Islands,  B.C.  598. 
Mts.,  Colo.  533. 

— — Teotibuacan,  Mex. 
623. 

— Lorenzo,  Cal.  555. 

— Luis  Obispo,  Cal.  561. 
de  la  Paz,  Mex.610. 

— — Park,  Colo.  532. 

— — Potosi,  Mex.  615. 
610. 

— Marcial,  N.M.  520. 

— Marco  Pass,  Cal.  562. 

— Marcos,  Tex.  592. 

— — , Mex.  616. 

— Mateo,  Cal.  556. 

Fla.  450. 

Mt.,  N.M.  521. 

— Miguel,  Cal.  560. 
de  Allende,  Mex. 

619. 

Mts.,  Colo.  533. 

— Pablo,  Cal.  502. 

— Pedro,  Cal.  568. 

, Mex.  613. 

— Rafael,  Cal.  552. 

— Ramon,  Cal.  553. 

— Ysidro  Ranch,  Cal.  562. 
Santa  Ana,  Cal.  571. 

• , Mex.  623. 

Valley  557.  563. 

— Anita,  Cal.  527.  569. 

, Mex.  621. 

— Barbara,  Cal.  561. 

— Catalina,  Cal.  568. 

— Catarina,  Mex.  610. 


Santa  Clara,  Cal.  557. 

— Cruz,  Cal.  556. 

, N.M.  532. 

(island).  Cal.  563. 

Mts.,  Cal.  553. 

— Eulalia,  Mex.  613. 

— Fe,  N.M.  519. 

Springs,  Cal.  571. 

— Lucrecia,  Mex.  624. 

— Margarita,  Cal.  561. 

— Maria,  Cal.  561. 

— Monica,  Cal.  568. 

— Paula,  Cal.  563. 

— Rosa,  Cal.  552. 

(island).  Cal.  583. 

Mts.,  Nev.  499. 

— Rosalia,  Mex.  613. 

— Susana,  Cal.  563. 

— Ynez  Valley,  Cal.  562. 

— Ysabel  Hot  Springs, 
Cal.  560. 

Santiago  Papasquiaro, 
Mex.  613. 

Santo  Domingo,  N.M.  520. 
Sapinero,  Colo.  536. 
Sapphire  Country , N.  C. 
433. 

Saranac  Inn,  N.Y.  212. 
223. 

— Lakes,  N.Y.  213.  223. 

— Lake  Village,  N.Y. 213. 
Sarasota,  Fla.  460. 
Saratoga,  N.Y.  225. 

— Lake,  N.Y.  227. 

— Springs,  N.Y.  225. 
Sardis,  Miss.  402.  403. 
Sargent,  Colo.  ,535. 

— Mt.,  Me.  138. 

Sarnia,  Can.  340. 

Saticoy,  Cal.  563. 
Satsuma,  Fla.  455. 
Satterfield,  Pa.  284. 
Saucelito,  Cal.  551. 
Saugerties,  N.Y.  190. 193. 

196. 

Saugus,  Cal.  563.  566. 
Sauk  Centre,  Minn.  375. 

— Rapids,  Minn.  470. 
Sault-Ste-Marie.  Ont.  374. 
Sausalito,  Cal.  551. 

Sauz,  Mex.  613. 

Savanna,  111.  491. 
Savannah,  Ga.  440. 

S.avin  Rock,  Ct.  78. 
Savoy,  Mont.  467. 
Saw-Tooth  Mts. , Idaho 

504. 

Saxon,  Wis.  372. 
Saybrook,  Ct.  83. 

Sayre  Junction,  N.Y,  284. 
Sayula,  Mex.  616. 
Scarborough,  Me.  128. 
Schenectady,  N.Y.  232.242 


Schenevus,  N.Y.  201. 
Schoharie,  N.Y.  201. 
Schoolcraft,  Mich.  340. 
Schooley’s  Mt.,  N.Y.  243. 
Schroon  Lake,  N.Y.  224. 

— River  P.  0.,  N.Y.  231. 
Schuylerville,  N.Y.  227. 
Schuylkill  River  258. 286. 

— Haven,  Pa.  286. 
Schwanders,  Colo.  516. 
Scioto  Valley,  0.  423. 
Scituate,  Mass.  117. 
Scotia,  Cal.  552. 
Scotland,  Va.  414. 

Scott  City,  Kan.  510. 

— Junction,  N.  H.  146. 

— Mts.,  Cal.  583. 
Scranton,  Miss.  422. 

— , Pa.  244.  284. 

Sea  Bright,  N.  J.  277. 

— Cliff,  N.Y.  75. 

— Girt,  N.J.  277. 

— Islands,  Ga.  442. 

— Isle  City,  N.J.  281. 
Seal  Harbor,  Mt.  Desert, 

Me.  137. 

Seaside  Park,  N.J.  279. 
Seattle,  V^ash.  469.  477. 
Sebago  Lake,  Me.  144. 
Sebastian,  Fla.  452. 
Sebasticook  River  130. 
Sedalia,  Colo.  528. 

— , Mo.  510. 

Sedro-Woolley,Wash.470. 
Seligman,  Ariz.  524. 
Sellersville,  Pa.  281. 
Selma,  N.C.  418.  434. 
Seneca,  S.C.  419. 

— Falls,  N.Y.  237. 

— Lake,  N.Y.  237. 
Sentinel  Butte,  N.  D.  472. 

— Dome,  Cal.  579. 
Sepulchre  Mt.,  Wyo.  483. 
Sequoia  National  Park, 

Cal.  564. 

— Mills,  Cal.  564. 
Serpent  Mound,  0.  387. 
Setauket,  N.Y.  75. 

Seven  Devils,  Ore.  504. 

— Lakes,  Colo.  530. 

— Pines,  Va.  412. 
Seville,  Fla.  456. 

Sewal,  la.  509. 

Seward  City,  Alaska  604. 
Seymour  Narrows,  B.C. 

599. 

Shakers,  N.Y.  201. 
Shandaken,  N.Y.  208. 
Sharon,  Mass.  86. 

— , 0.  m. 

— , Vt.  153. 

— , Wis.  362. 

— Springs,  N.Y.  201.  242. 


INDEX. 


Sliarpsburg,  Md.  428. 
Shasta  Mt.,  Cal.  583, 

— Springs,  Cal.  583. 
Shavano  Mt.,  Colo.  535. 
Shawanese  Lake,  Pa.  283. 
Shawangunk  Mts.  245. 344. 
Shawsville,  Va.  423. 
Sheffield,  Ala.  426. 

Mass.  174.  175. 
Shelburne,  N.H.  143. 

— , Vt.  149. 

— Falls,  Mass.  173. 
Shelby  Junction,  Mont. 

468. 

Shelby ville.  111.  388. 
Sheldon,  111.  378. 

— Springs,  Vt.  154. 
Shelter  Island,  N.Y.  75. 
Shelving  Rock  Mt. , N.Y. 

229. 

Shenandoah,  Va.  430. 

■ — Junction,  W.Va.  328. 
429. 

— Valley,  W.Va.  429. 
Shendun,  Va,  430. 
Sliepherdstown,  W.Va. 

429. 

Sherbrooke,  Que.  132. 144. 
Sheridan,  Colo.  516. 

Wyo.  496. 

Sberman,  Me.  132. 

— , Neb.  497. 

Sbinnecock Hills,  lSr.Y.75. 
Shirley,  Va.  413. 

Shoals,  Ind.  389. 

Shokan,  N.Y.  206. 

Shorb,  Cal.  586. 

Shosone  Falls,  Idaho  504. 

— Lake,  Wyo.  487. 
Shreveport,  La.  595. 
Shrewsbury,  N.  J.  279. 

— , Mass.  82. 

Shumla,  Tex.  589. 
Siasconset,  Mass.  119. 
Sidnaw,  Mich.  372. 
Sidney,  Neb.  497. 

— , N.Y.  344. 

Sierra  Blanca,  Tex.  589. 
596. 

— Madre,  Cal.  586. 

— Mojada,  Mex.  614. 

— Morciia,  Cal.  556. 

— Nevada,  Cal.  500.  564. 
Signal  Peak,  Cal.  576. 
Sihuatanejo,  Mex.  622. 
Silao,  Mex.  615. 

Silver  Bow  Mines,  Alaska 
604. 

— City,  N.M.  589. 

, Utah  537. 

— Creek,  N.Y.  330. 

— Lake,  N.Y.  247. 

Vt.  149. 


Silver  Plume,  Colo.  515. 

— Springs,  Fla.  456.  459. 

, N.Y.  247. 

Silverton,  Colo.  533. 

. Simcoe,  Ont.  343. 

. Simmesport,  La.  595. 
Sing  Sing  192. 

Sioux  City,  la.  375. 

— Falls,  S.D.  374. 

Sir  John’s  Run,  W.Va. 
328. 

Siskiyou,  Ore.  583. 

, Sisson,  Cal.  583. 

Sitka,  Alaska  606. 
Skaggs’  Springs,  Cal.  552. 
Skagway,  Alaska  605, 
Skaneateles  Lake , N.Y. 
236. 

. Skowhegan,  Me.  130. 
Slatington,  Pa.  282. 
Sleepy  Hollow,  N.Y.  192. 
Slide  Mt.,  N.Y.  208. 
Smith’s  Ferry,  Mass.  181. 
Smoky  Mts.,  N.C.  425. 
Snake  Mt.,  Vt.  149. 

— River  504. 

Snohomish,  Wash.  469. 

470. 

Snoqualmie  Fall,  Wash. 
470. 

Snowden,  Colo.  538. 
Sobobo,  Cal.  526. 

Social  Circle,  Ga.  439. 
Socorro,  N.  M.  520. 

Soda  Springs,  Cal.  582. 

— — , Colo.  538. 

— • — , Idaho  503. 

Soldier  Summit,  Utah  536. 
Soledad,  Cal.  560. 

-,  Mex.  612.  615.  624. 

— Pass,  Cal.  565. 
Solomonsville,  Ariz.  588. 
Somerset,  Ky.  397. 

— , Colo.  536. 

— , Mass.  94. 

Somerville,  Mass.  131. 146. 
— , Tex.  518. 

Somes  Sound,  Mt.  Desert, 
Me.  138. 

Somesville,  Mt.  Desert, 
Me.  139. 

Somersworlh,  N.H.  157. 
Sonoma,  Cal.  553. 
Sonora,  Cal.  592. 

Soo  Junction,  Mich.  372. 

— Ship  Canal  373. 
Sorrento,  Cal.  571. 

— , Me.  133. 

Soukhoi  Channel,  Alaska 
603. 

Sour  Lake,  Tex.  594. 
South  Acton , Mass.  147. 
Southampton,  N.Y.  75. 


655 


South  Ashburnham,  Mass. 
148.  174. 

— Beach,  N.Y.  67. 

— Bend,  Ind.  333.  340. 

— Berwick,  Me.  157. 

— Boston,  Va.  434. 

— Braintree,  Mass.  94. 

'ii7.  ^ ; , 

feohtjhbridge,  Ct.  8*7.  ' 
South  Carolina 435.  445. 

— Cupamonga,‘  Cal.  ^80- 

— Dakota  374. 

— Deerfield,  Mass.  182. 

— Dome,  Cal.  578. 
Southern  Pines,  N.C.  428. 
South  Fork,  Colo.  532. 

— Framingham,  Mass.  82. 

— Gilboa,  N.Y.  209. 

— Haven,  Mich.  339. 

— Hero,  Vt.  150. 

— Lawrence,  Mass.  126. 

— Lee,  Mass.  174. 

•—  McAlester,  I.T.  507. 

— Mt.,  Mass.  179. 

, N.Y.  205. 

— Norwalk,  Ct.  76.  173. 

— Paris,  Me.  143. 

— Park,  Colo.  516.  538. 

— Plainfield,  N.J.  247. 

— Platte,  Colo.  516. 

— Ripley,  Ky.  382. 

— Riverside,  Cal.  526. 

— Rocky  Mt. , N.  C.  418. 

— Schenectadv,  N.Y.  242. 

— Vernon,  Vt.  182. 

— West  Harbor,  Mt.  De- 
sert, Me.  138. 

Spanish  Peaks,  Colo.  519. 
532. 

Spanishtown,  Cal.  556. 
Sparrow’s  Point,  Md.  302. 
Sparta,  Wis.  362. 
Spartanburg,  S.  C.  418. 
Sphinx,  Mont.  482. 
Spinney,  Colo.  538. 

Spirit  Lake,  la.  491. 
Split  Rock  Mt.,  N.Y.  184. 
231. 

Spofford  Junction,  Tex. 
590. 

Spokane,  Wash.  475. 
Spottsylvania  Court 
House,  Va.  403. 
Sprague,  Wash.  476. 
Spring  City,  Tenn.  398. 
Springdale,  Mont.  473. 

— , Utah  543. 

Springfield,  111.  377.  508. 
—,  Ky.  398. 

— , Mass.  80. 

— , O.  383. 

— , Pa.  330. 

Spring  Hill,  Ala.  421. 


INDEX. 


656 


Spring  Lake,  N.J.  277. 
— Park,  Minn.  374. 
Springville,  Utah  537. 
Spuyten  Duyvil,  N.Y.  191. 
Sqnam  Lake,  N.  H.  158. 
Squirrel  Island,  Me.  133. 
Stacyville,  Me.  132. 
Staked  Plain,  Qrreat,  Tex. 
596. 

Stamford,  Ct.  76. 

N.y.  m 

Stampede  Tunnel,  Wash. 
476. 

Stanbrid^e,  Que.  154. 
Stanford  University,  Cal. 
557. 

Stanwood,  Wash.  470. 
Staples,  Minn.  471. 
Stapleton,  N.Y.  67. 
Starbuck,  Wash.  475. 
Star  Island,  N.  H.  125. 
Starke,  Fla.  459. 

Starr  King  Mt.,  Cal.  580. 

, N.H.  168.  145. 

State  Line,  Ala.  400. 

, 111.  388. 

, N.Y.  172. 

, Pa.  330. 

Staten  Island,  N.Y.  66.  2. 
Statesboro,  Ga.  442. 
Statesville,  N.  C.  431. 
Staunton,  Va.  381. 
Steamboat  Springs,  Colo. 

Steelton,  Pa.  288. 

Steep  Falls,  Me.  144. 
Stein’s  Pass,  N.  M.  588. 
Sterling,  111.  494.  496. 
Steubenville,  O.  326. 
Stevenson,  Ala.  428. 
Steven’s  Point,  Wis.  364. 
Stockbridge , Mass.  176. 
174. 

— Bowl,  Mass.  177. 
Stockton,  Cal.  501.  526. 
— , 111.  364. 

Stone  Mt.,  Ga.  419. 
Stonington,  Ct.  84.  89. 
Stony  Brook,  Minn.  371. 

— Clove,  N.Y.  207. 

— Creek,  Ct.  83. 

— Hollow,  N.Y.  206. 

— Man,  Va.  429. 

— Point,  N.Y.  188. 

Storm  King  Mt.,  N.Y.  189. 

192. 

Stoughton,  Mass.  94. 
Stowe,  Vt.  153. 

Strang,  Tex.  592. 

Straw  Point,  N.H.  125. 
Strawberry  Valley,  Cal. 
526. 

Streator,  111.  506. 


Strong,  Me.  140. 
Stroudsburg,  Pa.  244. 
Stuart,  Fla.  452. 

. Sturgeon  Point,  Va.  418. 

Sturgis,  Mich.  333. 

. Sublette,  N.M.  533. 
Sudbury,  Mass.  82. 

. — , Vt.  149. 

Suffern,  N.J.  245. 
Suffolk,  Va.  417. 

Sugar  Hill,  N.H.  168. 

. — Loaf  Mt.,  Mass.  182. 
Suisun,  Cal.  502.  564. 
Sullivan,  Me.  133. 

. Sullivan’s  Island,  S.C.  436. 
Sulphur  Springs,  Va.  423. 
Sultan  Mt.,  Colo.  533. 
Sumas,  B.  C.  470. 
Summer,  Wash.  477. 
Summerland,  Cal.  563. 
Summerville,  Ga.  439. 
-,  S.  C.  438. 

Summit,  Cal.  526. 

— , Mont.  468. 

— , N.J.  243. 

— , Vt.  148.  157. 

— Hill,  Pa.  283. 

— Station,  Cal.  500. 
Summitville,  N.Y.  343. 
Sumter,  S.C.  435.  438. 
Sunapee  Lake,  N.H.  152. 
Sunbright,  Tenn.  398. 
Sunbury,  Pa.  284.  288. 
Sunset,  Colo.  515. 

— Rock,  N.Y.  205. 
Superior,  Wis.  371. 

— Lake  372.  373. 

Surf,  Cal.  561. 

Surfside,  Mass.  119. 
Surprise  Mt.,  N.H.  163. 
Surry,  Va.  414. 
Suspension  Bridge,  N.Y. 

243.  339.  344. 
Susquehanna,  Pa.  247. 

— River  201.  244.  247. 
283.  284  etc. 

Sutherland,  Fla.  457. 
Sutro  Heights,  Cal.  550. 
Suwanee,  Ga.  419. 

— River,  Fla.  459. 

— Springs,  Fla.  460. 
Swampscott,  Mass.  121. 
Swanton,  Vt.  155. 

— Junction,  Vt.  154. 

— Water  Station,  Md.329. 
Swarthmore,  Pa.  275. 
Sweet  Grass  Hills,  Mont. 

468. 

— Springs,  Va.  381. 
Sweetwater,  Tex.  596. 
Switchback,  Alaska  605. 
Swoope’s,  Va.  381. 
Sycamore,  111.  364. 


Sylvan  Beach,  N.Y.  344. 

, Tex.  593. 

Sylvania,  Ga.  442. 

— , O.  333. 

Symon,  Mex.  614. 
Syracuse,  N.Y.  235.  242. 

— Beach,  Utah  499. 

Tacoma,  Fla.  458. 

— , Wash.  477. 

— Mt.,  Wash.  478. 
Taconic  Falls,  Me.  130. 

— Mts.,  Mass.  172. 174.181. 
Tacuba,  Mex.  612.  621. 
Tacubaya,  Mex.  621.  622. 
Tacula,  Mex.  611. 
Tahawus,  N.Y.  221. 
Tahoe  Lake,  Cal.  500. 
Taku  Inlet,  Alaska  603. 
Tallac,  Cal.  500. 
Tallahassee,  Fla.  460. 
Tallulah  Falls,  Ga.  419. 
Tama,  la.  491.  493. 
Tamalpais  Mt.,  Cal.  551. 
TamasopoCanon,Mex.615. 
Tammany  Mt.,  Pa.  244. 
Tampa,  Fla.  457. 
Tampico,  Mex.  615. 
Tanana  River,  Alaska  604. 
Taninul,  Mex.  615. 
Tanners ville,  N.Y.  207. 
Taos,  Pueblo  de,  N.M. 

532. 

Tappan,  N.Y.  188.  193. 

— Zee,  N.Y.  188.  192. 
Tarboro,  N.  C.  418. 
Tarpon  Springs,  Fla.  457. 
Tarrytown,  N.Y.  188. 192. 
Tassajara,  Cal.  560. 

Tate  Springs,  Tenn.  424. 
Taughanic  Fall,  N.Y.  236. 
Taunton,  Mass.  94. 
Tavares,  Fla.  457. 

Taylor  Mt.,  N.M.  521. 
Tecoma,  Nev.  499. 
Tehachapi  Pass,  Cal.  565. 
Tehama,  Cal.  582. 
Tehuacan,  Mex.  624.  626. 
Tehuantepec,  Mex.  624. 
Tejeria,  Mex.  624. 

Tekoa,  Wash.  475. 

Telles,  Mex.  622. 
Telluride,  Colo.  533. 
Temecula,  Cal.  527. 
Temple  Junction,  Tex. 

518. 

Tenango,  Mex.  611. 
Tenaya  Canon,  Cal.  579, 

— Lake,  Cal.  582. 
Tenino,  Wash.  478. 
Tennessee  (state)  398. 

— Pass,  Colo.  535. 

— River  398.  400  etc. 


INDEX. 


657 


Tennille,  Ga.  439.  442. 
Tepa,  Mex.  622. 
Tepehuanes,  Mex.  613. 
Tepetongo,  Mex.  611. 
Tepotzlan,  Mex.  622. 
Terra  Alta,  W.Va.  329. 
— Ceia,  Fla.  460. 
Terrazas,  Mex.  613. 
Terre  Haute,  Ind.  387. 
Teton  Mts.,  Idaho  487. 
Texada  Island,  B.C.  599, 
Texarkana,  Tex.  512. 
Texas  589. 

— City  Junction, Tex.  592. 
Texcoco,  Mex.  623.  625. 
— Lake,  Mex.  623.  625. 
Teziutlan,  Mex.  626. 
Tezonapa,  Mex.  624. 
Thacker,  W.Va.  423. 
Thackerville,  I.T.  518. 
Thenard,  Cal.  568. 
Theresa,  N.Y.  234. 
Thistle,  Utah  536. 
Thomas  Bay,  Alaska  603. 
Thomaston,  Mich.  372. 
Thomasville,  Ga.  444. 
Thf'mpson’s  Falls,  Mont. 
475. 

Thompsonville,  Ct.  80. 
Thornton,  N.  M.  520. 
Thousand  Islands,  N.Y. 
255. 

Thrail,  Cal.  583. 

Three  Forks,  Mont.  473. 

— Sisters,  Ore.  584. 
Thunderhead  Peak,  Tenn. 

424. 

Tia  Juana,  Cal.  572.  573. 
Tihuron,  Cal.  552. 
Ticeska,  Idaho  504. 
Ticonderoga,  N.Y.  230. 

— Fort,  N.Y.  230.  184. 
Tierra  Blanca,  Mex.  624. 
Tilton,  N.H.  154. 
Tinnaka,  Ariz.  524. 
Tintah  Junction,  Minn, 

375. 

Tintic  Mines,  Utah  537. 
542. 

Tinton  Falls,  N.J.  279. 
Tippecanoe,  Ind.  334.  378. 
Tipton,  Cal.  565. 
Tiptonville,  Tenn.  406. 
Tishomingo,  I.T.  507. 
Titusville,  Fla.  451. 

— , Pa.  300. 

Tivoli,  N.Y.  193.  190. 
Tlahualilo,  Mex.  613. 
Tlalpam,  Mex.  622. 
Tlancualpican,  Mex.  626. 
Tlaxcala,  Mex.  623. 
Tohyhanna,  Pa.  244. 
Tocaloma,  Cal.  552. 


Toccoa,  Ga.  419. 

Tocoi,  Fla.  454. 
Tokerville,  Utah  543. 
Tolchester  Beach,  Md.306. 
Toledo,  O.  333. 

Tolono,  111.  402. 

Toltec  Gorge,  N.  M.  533. 


Toluca,  Mex.  611. 

— , Mont.  496. 

Tom  Mt.,  Mass.  181. 
Tomah,  Wis.  361. 
Tomellin,  Mex.  626. 
Tomoka  Eiver,  Fla.  450. 
Tompkinsville,  N.Y.  67. 
Tom’s  River,  N.  J.  279. 
Tonawanda,  N.  Y.  242. 247. 
Topeka,  Kan.  512.  517. 
Topo  Chico  Springs,  Mex 
610. 

Toronto,  Can.  242. 
Torreon,  Mex.  610.  614. 
Torrey's  Peak,  Colo.  515. 
Tortugas,  Mex.  622. 
Tottenville,  N.Y.  67. 
Tovv^er,  Minn.  371. 

— City,  N.D.  471. 

— Falls,  Wyo.  490. 
Towner,  Colo.  510. 

— , N.D.  467. 

Toxoway  Lake,  N.  C.  433. 
Toyah,  Tex.  596 
Tracy,  Cal.  564. 
Treadwell  Mine,  Alaska 

604. 

Tremont,  Mass.  120. 
Trempealeau  Island, 
Minn.  404. 

Trenton,  Mich,  333. 

— , N.J.  258.  259. 

— Falls,  N.Y.  233. 

Tres  Marias,  Mex.  622. 

— Pinos,  Cal.  559. 
Trevino,  Mex.  612. 

Tribe’s  Hill,  N.Y.  232. 
Trilby,  Fla.  457.  459. 
Trimble  Springs , Colo. 

533. 

Trinidad,  Colo.  519. 
Trinway,  O.  327. 
Tri-States  Rock  246. 
Tropico,  Cal.  566. 

Trout  Creek  Pass,  Colo. 
538. 

— Lake,  Colo.  533. 

, Ore.  506. 

Troy,  Idaho  468. 

N.H.  148. 

. N.Y.  185. 

Truckee,  Cal.  5C0. 

Truro,  Mass.  120. 
Tsimpsean,  B.C.  600. 
Tuckahoe,  N.J.  281. 
Tucker,  Ga.  428. 


Tuckerman’s  Ravine, 
N.H.  170. 

Tucson,  Ariz.  588. 

Tula,  Mex.  617. 
Tulancingo,  Mex.  622. 
Tulare,  Cal.  565. 

Turn  water  Canon,  Wash. 

469.  . / . 

Tu'nnel  Station, 'N/Y.  202. 
Tiinnellfon,  W.Va.  329. 
Tuolumne  CaZon , .Cal. 

581*  ’ / r , 

— Meadows,  Cal.  582. 
Tupelo,  Miss.  402. 

Tupper  Lakes,  N.Y.  423. 
Turkey  Creek,  Fla.  460. 
Turner’s,  N.Y,  245. 

— Falls,  Mass.  172. 
Turtle  Mts.,  N.D.  467. 
Tuscaloosa,  Ala.  427. 
Tuscarora  Gap,  Pa.  289. 
Tuscumbia,  Ala.  426. 
Tuskegee,  Ala.  420. 
Tuxedo,  N.Y.  245. 
Tuxpan,  Mex.  616. 

Twin  Lakes,  Colo.  517. 

535.  538. 

, Mass.  174.  175. 

Mo 

Mt.  House,’ N.H.  165. 
Two  Harbors,  Minn.  371. 
Tybee  Beach,  Ga.  442. 
Tyngsboro,  Mass.  151. 
Tyrone,  Pa.  289. 
Tzintzuntzan,  Mex.  611. 


Baedeker’s  United  States.  3rd  Edit, 


Uintah  Mts.,  Wyo.  498. 
Ukiah,  Cal.  552. 
Umatilla,  Ore.  505.  475. 
476. 

Umbagog  Lake,  Me.  141. 
143. 

Unadilla.  N.Y.  202.  344. 
Unalaska,  Alaska  607. 
Uncompahgre  Mts.,  Colo. 

533.  534.  536. 

Underhill,  Vt.  154. 
Union,  Ore.  505. 

— , Pa.  289. 

— City,  O.  327.  387. 
Unionville,  Me.  132. 
University,  N.  C.  418. 
Unkas  Road,  N.  Y.  221. 
Upland,  Cal.  526. 

Upton,  Cal.  583. 

Urbana.  111.  383. 

. O.  327. 

Uruapan,  Mex.  611. 

Utah  (state)  498. 

— Hot  Springs,  Utah  498. 

— Lake,  Utah  137. 

— Line,  Utah  536. 

Ute  Park,  Colo.  537. 

42 


658 


INDEX. 


Ute  Pass,  Colo.  530. 
Utica,  N.  Y.  233.  221.  242. 
Utowana  Lake,  N.  Y.  222. 
Utsayantha  Mt.,  N.Y.  209. 
Uvalde,  Tex.  590. 

Valcour  Island,  N.  Y.  231. 
Valdes  I^l^d,  B.  C.  599. 
Valdez,  Alaska  607.  ' 
Valentine,  G-a.  44(X 
— , Tex.  589. 

Xalle^,  Cal.  552. 

— Junction,  Cal.  502.  552. 
Valley  CitK  D.  471. 

— Cottage,  N.Y.  193. 
Valleyfield,  Que.  186. 
Valley  Forge,  Pa.  285. 

— Stream,  N.  Y.  75. 
Valparaiso,  Ind.  334.  326. 
Van  Buren,  Me.  132. 
Vanceboro,  Me.  131. 
Vance  Junction,  Colo.  433. 
Van  Cortlandt,  N.  Y.  68. 
Vancouver,  B.  C.  470.  599. 

— Island,  B.  C.  598. 
Vandalia,  Mo.  388.  507. 
Van  Deusenville,  Mass. 

174. 

Vanegas,  Mex.  610. 

Van  Etten,  N.Y.  284. 

— Wert,  0.  326. 

Varina,  Va.  413. 

Vassar,  Mich.  338. 

— College  193. 

Venta  Salada,  Mex.  626. 
Ventora,  Cal.  563. 

Vera  C^uz,  Mex.  624. 
Vergennes,  Vt.  149. 
Vermilion  Lake,  Minn. 
371. 

— Mts.,  Minn.  371. 
Vermillion,  0.  334. 
Vermont  (state)  144. 
Vernal  Fall,  Cal.  579. 
Vernon,  Ct.  87. 
Versailles,  0.  387. 
Verstovaia  Mt. , Alaska 

606. 

Vesuvius,  Va.  430. 

Veta  Pass,  Colo.  532. 
Vicksburg,  Miss.  401. 
Victor,  Colo.  531. 
Victoria,  B.  C.  598. 

— , Mex.  614. 

— Park,  Ont.  334. 
Victory,  Minn.  404. 

Viga  Canal,  Mex.  621. 
Villaldama,  Mex.  609. 
Villa  Nova,  Pa.  287. 
Vinal  Haven,  Me.  133. 
Vincennes,  Ind.  389. 
Vineland,  N.  J.  279.  281. 
VineyardHaven,Mass.ll9. 


Vinita,  I.  T.  507. 

Virgin  River,  Utah  542. 
Virginia  (state)  407. 

— , Minn.  371. 

— , Nev.  500. 

— Beach,  Va.  414. 

— Mineral  Springs,  Va. 
342. 

Valley,  Va.  429. 
Virreyes,  Mex.  626. 
Visalia,  Cal.  525.  564. 
Volusia,  Fla.  455. 
Voorheesville,  N.  Y.  201. 
242. 

Wabash,  Ind.  388. 
Wabasha,  Minn.  362.^404. 
Wachusett,  Mass.  148. 
Waco,  Tex.  518. 

Wadena,  Minn.  471. 
Wades,  Tenn.  406. 
Wadesboro,  N".  C.  428. 
Wadley,  Ga.  442. 
Wadsworth,  111.  358. 

— , Nev.  499. 

Wagon  Mound,  N.  M.  519. 

— Wheel  Gap,  Colo.  532. 
Wagoner,  I.  T.  507. 
Wahpeton,  N.  D.  375. 
Wahsatch  Mts.,  Utah  498. 

536. 

Wakefield,  N.  H.  126. 

— , Va.  308.  417. 

Wake  Forest,  N.  C.  427. 
Wakulla  Spring,  Fla.  460. 
Walden  Pond,  Mass.  146. 
Waldo,  Fla.  459. 

Walker,  Minn.  471. 
Waliabout  Bay,  N.  Y.  87. 
Wallace,  Kan.  512. 
Walla  Walla,  Wash.  475. 
Wallface  Mt.,  A.  Y.  220. 
Wa-llington,  N.  Y.  344. 
Wallula,  Wash.  475. 
Walnut,  Canon,  Ariz.522. 

— Creek,  Cal.  553. 

— Ridge,  Ark.  511. 
Walpole,  Mass.  87. 

— , N.  H.  14S. 

Waltham,  Ma-s.  146. 
Walton,  Ky.  397.  398. 

— , N.  Y.  344. 

Wamego,  Kan.  512. 
Wanatah,  Ind.  326. 
Wannee,  Fla.  459. 

Ward  Island,  N.  Y.  66. 
Wareham,  Mass.  120. 

W aretown,  N.  J.  279. 
Warren,  N.  H.  156. 

— , Pa.  286. 

— , Wash.  478. 

Warsaw,  111.  406. 

. — , Ind.  326. 


Washburn  Mt.,  Wyo.  490. 
Washington  (state)  468. 
475. 

Washington,  D.  C.  309. 
Alms  House  323. 
Ancients,  Halls  of  the 
322. 

Arlington  House  325. 
Army  Medical  Museum 
315 

— War  College  323. 
Botanic  Gardens  315. 
Bureau  of  Engraving 
and  Printing  318. 
Capitol  311. 

Carnegie  Institute  323. 
Census  Bureau  322. 

City  Hall  321. 
Columbian  University 

319. 

Congressio  n al  Cemet  er  y 
323 

— Library  313. 
Corcoran  Art  Gallery 

320. 

Department  of  Agricul- 
ture 318. 

— of  the  Interior  321. 

— of  Justice  319. 

— of  the  Navy  320. 

— of  State  320. 

— of  War  320. 

District  Court  House 

321. 

Executive  Mansion 319. 
Fish  Commission  315. 
— Ponds  319. 

Ford’s  Theatre  322. 
Georgetown  324. 
Glenwood  Cemetery 
324. 

Government  Printing 
Office  322. 

Grand  Opera  House 
309.  319. 

Halls  0 f theAncients  322. 
Howard  University  324. 
Insane  Asylum  323. 
Judiciary  Square  321. 
Lafayette  Square  319. 
Land  Office  322. 
Lincoln  Square  328. 
Long  Bridge  319. 
Marine  Barracks  323. 
Ministry  of  Commerce 

322. 

Monuments ; 

Daguerre  316. 
Dupont  324. 

Farragut  324. 
Franklin  324, 
Frederick  the  Great 
323. 


INDEX. 


659 


Washington : 

Monuments ; 

Garfield  315. 

Greene  324. 

Gross  316. 
Hahnemann  324. 
Hancock  224. 

Henry  3J7. 

Jackson  319. 
Lafayette  319. 
Lincoln  322. 

Logan  324. 

Luther  324. 
McPherson  324. 
Marshall  315. 

Pike  322. 

Rawlins  324. 
Rochambeau  319. 

W.  Scott  324. 
Sherman  319. 
Thomas  324. 
Washington  311.  323 
Municipal  Building  322. 
Museum  of  Hygiene  323. 
National  Cemetery  325. 
— Military  Cem.  324. 
— Museum  316. 

- — Zoological  Park  324. 
Naval  Observatory  323 
Navy  Yard  323. 

Oak  Hill  Cemetery  324. 
Patent  Office  321. 
Peace  Cross  324. 

— Monument  315. 
Pension  Office  321. 
Post  Office  322.  310. 
Public  Library  323. 
Railway  Stations  309. 

322. 

Rock  Creek  Cem.  324. 

Park  324. 

Signal  Office  323. 
Smithsonian  Institu- 
tion 317. 

Soldiers'  Home  324. 
State,  War,  & Navy 
Department  320. 
Theatres  309.  319. 
Treasury  319. 
University  (R.  C.)  324. 
— , Columbian  319. 

Van  Ness  House  320. 
Waggaman  Gallery  324. 
Washington  Barracks 

323. 

— Obelisk  318. 
Weather  Bureau  323. 
White  House  319. 
Zoological  Garden  324. 
Washington,  Ind.  389. 

N.  J.  243. 

— Junction,  Me.  132. 
, Md.  326. 


Washington  Lake,  Wash. 
470. 

Mt.,  Mass.  175. 

, N.  H.  169. 

Washita,  Okla.  518. 
Washoe  Mts.,  Idaho  504. 
Waskom,  Tex.  595. 
Watch  Hill,  R.  I.  84. 
Waterbury,  Ct.  80. 

-,  Vt.  153. 

Waterford,  N.  Y.  184. 

— , Pa.  287. 

Waterloo,  la.  363. 495.  508. 
— , Me.  144. 

Watertown,  N.Y.  234. 

S.  D.  375. 

Wis.  361. 

W'atervill^  Me.  130.  139. 
— , Minn*TO63. 

— , N.H.  156. 

Watervliet,  N.  Y.  183. 
Watkins,  Colo.  513. 

-,  N.Y.  237. 

— Glen,  N.  Y.  237. 

— Mt.,  Cal.  581. 

Watson,  Ind.  400. 
Waukegan,  111.  385. 
Waukesha,  Wis.  361.  364. 
Wauwatosa,  Wis.  361. 
Waverley,  Mass.  116. 

— , Va.  417. 

Wawona,  Cal.  575. 
Waxhaw,  N.  C.  428. 

Way  cross,  Ga.  444. 
Wayland,  N.  Y.  245. 
Wayne  Junction,  Mich. 
339. 

, Pa.  259.  275.  281. 

Waynesville.  N.  C.  433. 
Way’s,  Ga.  444. 

Wayzata,  Winn.  370.  374. 
Weatherford,  Tex.  596. 
Weber  Canon,  Utah  499. 
Webster,  Colo.  516. 

-,  Ct.  87. 

Lake,  N.  H.  153. 

— Mt.,  N.  H.  164. 
Weedsport,  N.Y.  235. 
Weehawken,  N.  J.  67. 193. 
Weirs,  N.  H.  155. 

Weiser,  Ore.  504. 
Weissport,  Pa.  232. 
Welaka,  Fla.  455. 
Weldon,  N.  C.  414.  434. 
Weld  Pond,  Me.  140. 
Welland,  Ont.  335.  343. 
Wellesley,  Mass.  82. 
Wellfleet,  Mass.  120. 
Wellington,  Wash.  469. 
Wells,  Nev.  499. 

— Beach,  Me.  127. 

River,  Vt.  156.  183. 

Wellsville,  0.  344. 


Wenatchee,  Wash.  469. 
Wenham,  Mass.  124. 
West  Albany,  N.  Y.  232. 

— Baldwin,  Me.  144. 

— Barnstable,  Mass.  120. 

— Brighton,  N.Y.  74. 

— Chazy,  N.Y.  185. 

— Chester,  Pa,  21^. 

— Chop,  Mass.  ^9/ 

— Davehport,  N.  Y.  209. 
End,  N.  J.  270. 

, J.  103: 


Englewood, 

Westerly,  R.  I.  84. 
Western  North  Carolina 
431. 

Westfield,  Mass.  171. 

— , N.  Y.  330. 
Westhampton,  N.Y.  75. 
West  Hartford,  Vt.  153. 
— Hurley,  N.Y.  206. 
Jupiter,  Fla.  452. 
Lebanon,  N.  H.  153. 
Liberty,  la.  365.  494. 
Westminster,  Md.  307. 
Westmoreland,  N.  H.  148. 
West  Newton,  Mass.  82. 

— Nyack,  N.Y.  193. 
Weston,  Mass.  146. 

West  Ossipee,  N.  H.  155. 

158. 

Westover,  Va.  413. 

West  Palm  Beach,  Fla. 
452. 

— Pittsfield,  Mass.  172. 
Point,  Ga.  420. 

, N.Y.  194.  189. 

— , Va.  412. 

Quincy,  Mo.  509. 
Westport,  N.  Y.  214. 184. 
231. 

West  Stewartson,  N.  H. 
146. 

— Stockbridge,  Mass.  174. 

— Superior,  Wis.  371. 

— Troy,  N.  Y.  183. 

— Virginia.  288.  328. 
Weverton,  Md.  328. 
Weyanoke,  Va.  413. 
Weymouth,  Mass.  117. 
Whatcom,  Wash.  470. 
Wheatland,  la.  493. 
Wheeling,  W.Va.  329. 

326. 

White  Beach,  Ct.  83. 

Bear  Lake,  Minn.  370. 

— Creek,  N.  Y.  186. 
Whiteface  Mt.,  N.  Y.  216. 
Whitefield,  N.  H.  146. 156. 
Whitehall,  N.Y.  184. 
White  Haven,  Pa.  283. 

— Hills,  Ariz.  524. 

■ — Horse,  Can.  605. 

— Lake,  N.  Y.  221. 


i60 


INDEX. 


,Vhite  Mt,  House,  N.  H. 
165.  145. 

Notch,  N.  H.  145. 

164. 

- Mts.,  N.  H.  158. 

- Pass,  Alaska  605. 

- Pigeon,  Midi.  333. 
-,Plafns,  Nev.  499. 

- Y.  6a 

- River  378.  40a 

Jiknction,  Vt.  153. 
18^3. 

VaRejr,  Vt>  153. 

- Sfulphur  Springs,  W. 
Va.  381. 

- — , Cal.  552.  553. 

- Water,  Cal.  587. 
Vhitings,  N.  J.  279. 
Yhitman,  Mass.  117. 
Yhitney  Mt,  Cal.  525. 
V'hittaker,  Miss.  401. 
/ichita,  Kan.  518. 
V'ickford,  R.  I.  84. 
Yilhur,  Colo.  534. 

Vilcox,  Ariz.  588. 

-,  Pa.  286. 

Wilderness,  the,  Va.  408. 
Wildwood,  Fla.  459. 
Wilkes-Barre,  Pa.  283. 
Wilkeson,  Wash.  478. 
Wiikinsburg,  Pa.  291. 
Willamette  River  506.584. 
586. 

Willard,  Utah  499. 

- Mt,  N.H.  164. 

Willcox  Landing,  Va.  413. 
Willey  House,  N.  H.  164. 

- Mt,  N.  H.  164. 

Williams,  Ariz.  522. 

- Bay,  Wis.  356. 

- Canon,  Colo.  530. 
Williamsburg,  Va.  415. 
Williamson,  Pa.  275. 
Williamsport,  Pa.  284. 
283. 

Williamstown,  Mass.  173, 
180. 

Willimantic,  Ct.  87. 
Williston,  N.  D.  467. 

Vt.  154. 

Willits,  Cal.  552. 

Willmar,  Minn.  374. 
Willoughby  Lake,  Vt.l57. 
Willsborough,  N.Y.  184. 
Wilmington,  Cal.  568. 

-,  Del.  300. 

-,  Mass.  151. 

N.  C.  434. 

N.Y.  216. 

Wilson,  N.  C.  418. 


Wilson  Mt.,  Cal.  570. 

— Springs,  Me.  140. 
Wilton,  Ct.  173. 

— , Me.  139. 

Winamac,  Ind.  327. 
Winchendon,  Mass.  148. 
174. 

Winchester,  Mass.  151, 
W.  Va.  288. 

Windsor,  Can.  335. 

— , N.  H.  183. 

Va.  417. 

Beach,  N.Y.  344. 
Winfield,  Kan.  518. 
Wingate,  N.  M.  521. 
Wing  Road,  N.  H.  156. 
Winnebago  Lake,  Wis. 

364.  C 
Winnemucco,'*Nev.  499. 
Winnipeg,  Can.  375.  471. 

— Junction,  Minn.  376. 
471. 

Winiiipesaukee  Lake, 

N.  H.  155. 

Winnisquam  Lake,  N.  H, 
154. 

Winona,  Minn.  362.  404. 
— , Wash.  475. 

Winooski  River  150. 
Winslow,  Ariz.  521. 

— , Me.  130. 

— Junction,  N.J.  279. 280. 
281. 

Winston-Salem,  Va.  423. 
Winter  Park,  Fla.  475. 
Wisconsin  (state)  358. 

— River  404. 

Wizard  Island,  Ore.  584. 
Woburn,  Mass.  151. 
Wolcott,  Colo.  535. 

Wolf,  Minn.  371. 
Wolfeborough,  N.  H.  155. 
158. 

Woodburn,  Ky.  397. 
Woodbury,  N.  J.  280. 
Woodford,  S.  C.  445. 
Woodhaven,  N.  Y.  75. 

W oodland  Park, Colo.  537. 
Woodlawn,  ,N.  Y.  76. 
Woodsburgh,  N.  Y.  75. 
Wood’s  Hole,  Mass.  118, 
Woods  of  Arden,  N.  Y.  67. 
Woodstock,  Can.  340. 

— , N.  Y.  206. 

— S.  C.  438. 

— , Tenn.  401. 

— , Vt.  153. 

Woodsville,  N.  Y.  156. 
Woolwich,  Me.  133. 
Woonsocket,  R.  I.  86. 


Worcester,  Mass.  81. 
Worth  Lake,  Fla.  452. 
Wrangell,  Alaska  602. 
Wright,  Cal.  555. 
Wyandotte  Cave,  Ind. 

Wyoming  (state)  482.  497. 
— Valley,  Pa.  283. 
Wytheville,  Va.  424. 

Xenia,  0,  880. 
Xocliicalct,  Mex.  622. 
Xochimilico  Lake,  Mex. 
621. 


Yakima,  Wash.  476. 

Yale  Mt.,  Colo.  516. 

University,  Ct.  66. 
Yancey’s,  Wyo.  493. 
Yaquina,  Ore.  584. 
Yardley,  Pa.  259. 
Yarmouth,  Mass.  120. 

Me.  143. 

— ; Minn.  375. 

Ybor  City,  Fla.  460. 
Yellowstone  Falls,  WyOi 
490. 

— Grand  Canon , Wyo. 
489. 

Lake,  Wyo.  488. 

— Park,  Wyo.  479. 

— River  472.  488.  etc. 
Yellow  Sulphur  Springs, 

Va.  423. 

Yemassee,  S.  C.  439. 
Yerkes  Observatory  356. 
Yonah  Mt.,  Ga.  419. 
Yonkers,  N.  Y.  191.  188. 
York,  Pa.  307. 

— Beach,  Me.  126. 

York  town,  Va.  412. 
Yosemite  Valley,  Cal.474. 

577. 

— Falls,  Cal.  580. 

— Village,  Cal.  576. 
Youngstown,  0.  345. 
Yountville,  Cal.  553. 
Ypsilanti,  Mich.  339. 
Ysleta,  Tex.  589. 

Yukon,  Can.  605. 

Y'ulee,  Fla.  445. 

Yuma,  Ariz.  587. 

Zacatecas,  Mex.  614. 
Zanesville,  0.  329. 
Zapotlan,  Mex.  616. 
Zealand,  N.  H.  145.  165, 
Zion  City,  111.  358. 
Zitacuara,  Mex.  611. 

Zuni,  Ariz.  521. 

I-,  N.  M.  589. 


Leipzig;  Printed  by  Breitkopf  and  Hartel. 


'Cy' 

